marquesas islands tours

The Marquesas Islands

The legendary high cliffs, the volcanic peaks, the impressive vestiges enveloped by the wild nature which reigns supreme, the incredible beaches: the Marquesas Islands are simply breathtaking. Located 1,500 km from Papeete, they offer visitors the trip of a lifetime. The Marquesas Islands are rightly nicknamed “Te Henua Enana”: The Land of Men.

Golden rays of light filter through the clouds suspended from steep mountain peaks, creating an unreal and subtle atmosphere. Lush and tall islands emerge from the Pacific Ocean, a land of stories and legends, as fascinating as it is unforgettable. Welcome to “Terre des Hommes”, the Marquesas Islands. The Marquesas are located 1,500 km northeast of Tahiti and are spread over 12 islands, of which only six are inhabited.

A First-Timer’s Guide to the Marquesas Islands

Tourism is relatively new to the marquesas islands, making it an ideal place for thoughtful travelers to explore..

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There are 12 islands in the largely off-the-traveler-radar Marquesas archipelago.

Photo by Bildagentur Zoonar GmbH/Shutterstock

Nearly 900 miles west of mainland Tahiti is an archipelago relatively unknown to Western tourists, at least so far as South Pacific island destinations go. It’s the Marquesas archipelago—one of five island groups in French Polynesia —and includes 12 islands, only 6 of which are permanently inhabited. All 12 are dramatic, with jagged mountains covered in jungle rising from the water.

The Marquesan people have lived on these islands likely since around 100 C.E., arriving from Hawai‘i or other Polynesian islands, although historical records are few. Because the islands are so far from other archipelagoes and outrigger canoe was the only means of travel, there was very little interaction between Marquesans and other islanders.

The result is a culture more than 2,000 years old, based on but distinct from the rest of Polynesia. Tourism is relatively new to the islands, and most of the main draws are cultural activities like archeological sites and handicraft markets or outdoor adventures, such as jungle hikes and exploring hidden beaches. If you’ve never visited, use this guide to plan a trip to the Marquesas Islands.

Lodging in the Marquesas

There are only two established resorts in the Marquesas: the bungalows at the cliffside Le Nuku Hiva and the Hanakee Lodge on Hiva Oa. There are also a few pensions (casual guesthouses) on the inhabited islands. The best way to find one is to search on Google Maps, then message the owner on Facebook to make a reservation. Most pensions do not have websites.

Book Le Nuku Hiva now: From $299 per night, expedia.com

Book Hanakee Lodge now: hotelhanakee.com

Things to do in the Marquesas

Discover a lesser-known side to French Polynesia on on Nuku Hiva (left) and Hiva Oa (right).

Photo by Grégoire Le Bacon/Tahiti Tourisme

Explore Fatu Hiva on foot

Active travelers can take the 11-mile, 3,000-foot-gain trek across Fatu Hiva to a lookout point with views of Hanavave Bay. The point-to-point hike passes volcanic basalt formations, cliffside fields of purple wheat, and into dense jungle on the way to the terminus in Hanavave village. If you aren’t with the Aranui boat (see below), you’ll need to arrange transportation back to the starting point in Omoa.

Learn about the Marquesas and Gauguin on Hiva Oa

While Gauguin’s colorful, avant-garde paintings thrilled the art world, his impact on the island was more controversial, at best. He was accused of several unsavory relationships with underage girls and lived out many of the hedonistic “sauvage” scenes in his art.

The Paul Gauguin Cultural Center pays homage to the fauvist (which loosely translates to “wild men”) artist and sheds light on his impact on Hiva Oa. (It doesn’t address his controversial legacy as other, more recent exhibits have done.) Displays are in both French and English. Gauguin eventually died on Hiva Oa and is buried next to French crooner Jacques Brel in the Calvary Cemetery, an easy 15-minute walk from the museum. Take note that all paintings are recreations by Tahitians; the tropical weather would quickly damage the original works.

Watch a traditional “pig dance” on Nuku Hiva

Dance is a meaningful part of Marquesan culture. Many traditional dances were nearly lost to time with the arrival of Christianity because European missionaries banned nearly all non-Christian traditions relating to dance, religion, and art. Today, dance isn’t just a show for tourists—it’s a way for Marquesan youth to regain agency over a tradition nearly eliminated by foreign influence.

See the traditional prehunt pig dance at the Tohua Kamuihei Archeological Site on Nuku Hiva. Visit the site with a guide to learn how it was used to preserve mana (spiritual energy) and see the banyan trees used to trap enemy warriors.

Learn to make tapa cloth on Fatu Hiva

Aside from tattoos, tapa cloth is perhaps the form of art most associated with the Marquesan archipelago by international travelers. Marquesans make it by hand, putting fresh bark through several cycles of mashing, soaking, and stretching to form the “cloth.” Historically, Marquesans used it for fabric to create capes, blankets, and jackets—creating tapa is labor (and time) intensive, so the larger the piece of cloth, the more wealthy and powerful the wearer. When the traditional practice of tatau (from which we get the word “tattoo”) was banned in the 1800s, islanders began to record family symbols on tapa, rather than skin. Today, tapa is primarily a form of art, rather than an everyday material.

Most art markets will sell tapa, but visit the open-air Omoa Village handicraft center on Fatu Hiva to see how it’s made.

Go scuba diving on Hiva Oa

The dramatic terrain isn’t just on land. If you’re a certified scuba diver, you can dive in Hiva Oa, an undeniably remote bucket-list site for intrepid divers. Marquises Diving is the only operator. Steep rock walls drop to small reefs around 70 feet deep, attracting deeper water species like tiger sharks and giant marble rays. Expect strong swells and limited visibility; diving here is an adventure.

The best way to reach the islands is the cruise ship “Aranui 5”.

Photo by Lionel Gouverneur/Tahiti Tourisme

How to get to the Marquesas Islands

The vast majority of travelers to the Marquesas come via the Aranui 5 , a half-cargo, half-cruise ship that makes roughly 15 trips per year to the islands from Tahiti. The unique vessel is divided into two sections, with the front dedicated to cargo storage for everything from horses to cars to cases of frozen chicken (supposedly the most-requested item on the islands). The stern carries up to 220 guests in accommodations ranging from shared bunks to luxurious suites with private balconies. Throughout the 13-day voyage, guests are encouraged to connect with the staff; about 90 percent of them are Tahitian, most Marquesan.

“I enjoy talking with [guests] about our traditions and customs. I like to share with them the stories of my time, compared to today’s life, which is different from them. I am native of the island of Ua Pou in the Marquesas, it is my land, my roots, and I’m very attached to that. Working on board the Aranui makes it possible for me to always keep contact with my land, my family, and my ancestors,” says Micheline Kohumoetini, head of housekeeping and a Marquesan from Ua Pou.

Aranui arrival day is akin to a local holiday on each island as it brings the islands’ near-only tourists and supplies that locals ordered likely months earlier. It also exports c opra (coconut) farmed by the locals, the primary income source for Marquesans. The government is contractually obligated to buy as much copra as can be produced, and Marquesans can even pay for their orders and transport fees in copra. The Aranui receives a small fee for transporting it back to Tahiti, where it’s then shipped to oil, food, and perfume facilities in France.

Without a ship like the Aranui , Marquesan Islanders would have virtually no tourists or methods for shipping copra at scale, which would likely result in swaths of the population permanently moving to seek work on more populated islands. This makes the Aranui —and the tourists who fund it—essential to preserving the Marquesan culture.

Getting around the Marquesas

Options for interisland travel are limited unless you’re onboard the Aranui . There are airports on Nuku Hiva, Ua Huka, and Hiva Oa. Air Tahiti is the only airline that services them and offers a few flights a week to each, though they’re prone to weather cancellations. The only air connection between islands is between Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa, offered a few times each month. Service to Ua Huka varies but can be very infrequent.

On the islands, almost all travel is via open-air 4x4 vehicles. Many Marquesans offer guiding services, which are advisable as roads can be steep, rocky, and unmarked. It’s best to have your hotel organize airport pickups and drivers. You may be able to rent a car on the islands of Hiva Oa, Nuku Hiva, or Ua Poa.

Tips for visiting French Polynesia’s Marquesas Islands

Be flexible.

Planning from afar can be difficult due to a lack of reliable internet access and the overall nascency of tourism on the islands. Interisland flights are often delayed by weather or lack of passengers, most restaurants and businesses have no set hours, and travel by sea is slow and choppy. There are no regular interisland ferries.

Plan a long trip

Reaching the Marquesas is a multistep trip, whether you travel with the Aranui or not. Depending on flight schedules, you may have to wait a few days to get to the islands once arriving on Tahiti, and it may be quicker to sail back to Tahiti rather than waiting for one of the few interisland flights to depart. If the Aranui 5 ’s interisland travel schedule coincides with your trip, you may be able to book an overnight bunk as a method for connecting between islands. It’s used primarily by locals to move between islands, but it’s open to anyone. Contact the Aranui for details.

Rent a Tahiti Wi-Fi pass

If you need to stay connected on vacation, rent a Tahiti Wi-Fi pass, which works on most Marquesan islands (but not at sea). Aside from the higher-end resorts, most businesses do not have public Wi-Fi, and those that do will have relatively slow speeds.

Take advantage of your hotel’s expertise

There’s no public transportation or formal tour companies in the Marquesas. If you can’t walk wherever you want to go, ask your hotel to arrange a driver or tour guide. You won’t find phone numbers or websites for most restaurants or tour guides online.

Tours and guides

There are not enough non- Aranui visitors to the islands to warrant formal tour companies or regularly scheduled tour offerings. If you’re traveling on your own, you’ll likely need to have your hotel or lodge arrange a tour guide. Most guides are individuals familiar with the islands rather than official guiding companies. There are a few operators you can contact in advance online; speaking French may help with some.

Nearly all businesses are cash only. There are ATMs on Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa. Bartering at markets is not customary.

>> Next: AFAR’s Guide to French Polynesia

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The Marquesas

Grand, brooding and powerful, nature’s fingers have sculpted the Marquesas Islands into sharp silhouettes that jut up dramatically from the cobalt-blue ocean. Waterfalls taller than skyscrapers trickle down vertical canyons, the ocean thrashes towering cliffs, basalt pinnacles project from emerald forests, and scalloped bays are blanketed with desert arcs of white or black sand.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Kamuihei, Tahakia & Teiipoka

About 300m towards Taipivai from the Hikokua site, these three connecting sites make up the largest excavated archaeological area of Nuku Hiva. A team led…

Tohua Koueva

It’s believed that this extensive communal site, with its paved esplanade, belonged to the war chief Pakoko, who was killed by the French in 1845. Today…

Hanahevane Bay

This glorious bay is caressed by jade-green waters and is studded with a broad strand of golden sand. It’s a good picnic spot (despite a number of pesky…

One of the most powerful archaeological sites in the Marquesas, Hikokua was discovered by the archaeologist Robert Suggs in 1957 and has been restored and…

This tiny village, built against the steep slopes of the central ridge, retains a few vestiges of its stormy past. On the seafront stands a modest…

Hanavave boasts a splendid setting, at the mouth of a steep-sided valley, best enjoyed from the sea (lucky yachties!). When the setting sun bounces purple…

Time moves at a crawl in Omoa. The most striking monument is the Catholic church, with its red roof, white facade and slender spire. It makes a colourful…

High up in the valley of Hane, the site of Meiaute includes three 1m-high, red-tuff tiki that watch over a group of stone structures, pae pae and me’ae,…

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Nov 30, 2019 • 7 min read

Where is a woman's place on a paradise island with a macho culture and no crime? Caroline O'Donoghue investigates.

The Marquesas and beyond

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Tiki statues in the jungle, black-rock mountains, and a laid-back culture, all on the undeveloped Marquesas Islands.

For a glimpse into the jungle-snarled landscapes and Polynesian culture that existed before the French, you might consider a visit to the Marquesas. Steep basaltic mountains, a laid-back culture, and very few other visitors make this a great place to unwind for a week or so, without the crowds that you'll find on Tahiti , which is located about a four-hour flight away.

These islands are unprotected by barrier islands and the shores are mostly battered by the deep-blue rollers of the Pacific. This, combined with their mountainous interiors, means the islands have largely been bypassed by resorts and other visitor infrastructure. You can enjoy a rustic stay at the simple hotels here or visit via cruise from other islands, combining the luxury of a ship with the adventure of visiting this undeveloped archipelago.

Things to see and do in the Marquesas Islands

Explore nuka hiva on a 4x4 tour.

Perhaps the most impressive of these is Hikokua. Dating to the 13th century, this gathering space boasts a collection of powerful statues, some original and others carved by modern artists. They surround several platforms that were (and are) used for dance performances and other important community gatherings. Your guide can unpack the complex cultural uses of this space on your tour.

Tour Tahuata Island

For a contrast, you can also take a day-long tour of Tahuata Island , the smallest inhabited island in the Marquesas. You’ll visit the small villages of Vaitahu and Hapatoni, both a short boat ride from Hiva Oa, where you can explore a church, a museum, and meet the craftspeople who live here. Hapatoni is particularly known for its sculptors who create art from rosewood, bones, and even swordfish beaks. You’ll also have time to relax on the golden-sand beach and swim in the sparkling bay.

Best time to visit the Marquesas Islands

You’ll encounter the least rain between June to October, making it an ideal time to visit.

Start planning your tailor-made trip to Marquesas Islands by contacting one of our French Polynesia specialists

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Start planning your trip to Marquesas Islands

Map of marquesas islands, places & hotels on the map, photos of marquesas islands.

Our expert guides to exploring Marquesas Islands

Written by our specialists from their own experiences of visiting Marquesas Islands, these guides will help you make the most of your time there. We share both our practical recommendations and the best ways to appreciate Marquesas Islands at its best.

Cruises in French Polynesia

South Pacific specialist Joshua reviews the Aranui, which, for him, is the best cruise vessel around French Polynesia. He explains what to expect from life on board, and why the out-of-the-way Marquesas and Tuamotu Islands are such intriguing places to explore.

French Polynesia honeymoons

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Accommodation choices for Marquesas Islands

We've selected a range of accommodation options for when you visit Marquesas Islands. Our choices usually come recommended for their character, facilities and service or location. Our specialists always aim to suggest properties that match your preferences.

Keikahanui Pearl Lodge

Hanakee Hiva Oa Pearl Lodge

Ideas for experiencing marquesas islands.

Our specialists seek out authentic ways to get to know the places that could feature in your trip. These activities reflect some of the experiences they've most enjoyed while visiting Marquesas Islands, and which use the best local guides.

Tahuata Island Full Day Tour

Set sail for Tahuata, the smallest inhabited island in the Marquesas archipelago, where you will have the chance to see dolphins and rays before disembarking to take in the island's culture and art.

A Complete Guide to the Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia

Tahiti Tourisme

Language and Culture

Things to do, where to stay, where to eat, getting there, getting around.

The Marquesas are one of the most remote island groups on Earth. Anchored in the Pacific nearly 1,000 miles northeast of Tahiti, the very fact of these islands’ remote location is what has long captured travelers' imaginations. The idea of the typical South Seas escape arguably began with the novel "Typee," Herman Melville’s heavily embellished 1846 blockbuster memoir of his visit to the islands onboard an erstwhile whaler. 

The islands had banner moments in the 20th century for famous residents fleeing urban ennui. Today, in spite of their breathtaking scenery and dream-like visitor experience, they attract only a trickle of visitors, primarily intrepid adventurers from mainland Europe. 

The islands are in the extreme northeast corner of French Polynesia, a semi-autonomous territory of France. The local time is GMT-9:30, a half hour ahead of Tahiti (which is the same time zone as Hawai‘i). 

Although there are 15 islands in the group, tourism is concentrated on the two islands with regular air service: Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa. The islands are called "Fenua Enata" in the south and "Henua Enana" in the north—both mean “The Land of Men”. 

French is the official language of French Polynesia. English-speaking visitors are less common in the Marquesas than other parts of French Polynesia, so some basic French can be an asset, particularly away from the hotels. Tour guides generally speak good English, but French narrations are often more detailed. 

While Tahitian is widely spoken on Tahiti and in the Society Islands, the language is mutually unintelligible with Marquesan. As visitors who have spent even a day or two on Tahiti or have traveled elsewhere in the territory quickly pick up on Tahitian words, it is not uncommon for them to speak the language upon arrival in the Marquesas; local residents will kindly correct those who do, but it is good practice to learn some basic phrases before your visit. Marquesan has two dialects—one for the north of the island group (around Nuku Hiva) and one of the south (around Hiva Oa).

Scott Laird

From snorkeling in Tahuata to hiking to a waterfall in Hakaui, here are the top things to do in and around the most popular islands in the Marquesas.

On Hiva Oa, a popular excursion is a day trip by boat to the neighboring island of Tahuata. As you explore the town of Vaitahu (which features an impressive stone church) and the hamlet of Hapatoni (renowned for its wood carvers and local crafts), your guide will share aspects of Marquesan culture. The tours typically include a stop at a beach for lunch and snorkeling before returning to Hiva Oa. 

Another popular excursion is a quick trip through the village of Atuona to see sights pertaining to its two most famous denizens: the painter Paul Gauguin and singer Jacques Brel, both of whom are buried in the island’s small cemetery. The Paul Gauguin Cultural Center in Atuona sits on the site of the painter’s house, and includes an air-conditioned gallery of replica works by the artist. The grounds feature a replica of his house (the original wood entrance arch—carved by Gauguin himself—is at the Musee d’Orsay in Paris). A nearby hangar houses JoJo, the private aircraft of Jacques Brel, alongside historic displays (in French) of the singer’s career. 

On Nuku Hiva, excursions include trips to Hakaui, where a hike can be undertaken to visit a waterfall, or to Taipivai, the “Typee” of Melville’s writings. Taiohae is also a pleasant village for strolling, where one is just as likely to encounter a wayward horse nibbling grass at the bus stop as a local resident stopping into a local shop or pizza joint. 

Near the pier, there’s an artisanal center where local crafters sell their wares, with a focus on Marquesan wood carvings—a skill for which the islands’ master carvers are renowned throughout the Pacific. There are also produce stalls and a snack bar. 

Four-wheel drive excursions are also popular on rugged Nuku Hiva, to various points on the island to visit archaeological sites and enjoy the vistas from scenic overlooks at many points on this mountainous island. 

Any and all excursions are arranged through hotels or pensions, and it’s customary to book them upon arrival in Nuku Hiva as availability and conditions can vary.

Pensions, or Tahitian guesthouses, are available on both islands. Generally operated within or adjacent to private homes, pensions typically offer rooms or bungalows with private or shared baths. Accommodation standards can vary, but they offer a distinctly local atmosphere and are generally less expensive than the single resort hotels on Nuka Hiva and Hiva Oa, of which there are two.

Nuka Hiva Pearl Lodge

On Nuku Hiva, the Relais & Chateaux member Nuku Hiva Pearl Lodge is situated on a hillside overlooking Tai-O-Hae, the principal community of the island and administrative center for the entire island group. Semi-detached bungalows snake down a hillside to a black sand beach—each is equipped with full baths with standard hotel amenities. The main lodge has a small pool and the island’s only fine dining restaurant—a fine place to watch the moon rise over the collection of sailboats dotting the bay. 

Hanakee Lodge

On Hiva Oa, the Hanakee Lodge sits on a hill overlooking Ta’aoa Bay with its imposing weather-beaten sheer mountain cliffs looking like a "King Kong" set. Fully detached bungalows stand in a semi-circle around the small garden overflowing with bougainvillea, plumeria (called "frangipane" or "tipanier" locally), and starburst-shaped tiare, the fragrant emblem of French Polynesia.

Standard amenities can be found in the units, and the main lodge has a small pool, bar, and fine-dining restaurant, plus a small selection of gift items for sale, including Marquesan wood carvings. 

On the same grounds as the lodge is the Pension Josephine, which offers bungalows sleeping up to six, with buffet breakfast and table d’hôte dinners included in the rate.

On both islands, fine dining restaurants can be found in the hotels, offering French-style cuisine with focus on local seafood and produce, plus some international options such as pastas and pizzas. 

Many menus include goat, a typical Marquesan protein, and local vegetable products such as coconut and breadfruit. The Marquesas are also known for their local honey, which finds its way into many restaurant desserts and hotel breakfast buffets. 

The “Snack” (short for snack bar, a term imported by American GIs during WWII) is an affordable type of restaurant found all over French Polynesia, typically offering a selection of sandwiches, pizzas, burgers, or Chinese. 

Tahiti is eight hours from Los Angeles or San Francisco, the two U.S. mainland gateways with nonstop service to Tahiti.

Air Tahiti , the domestic airline of French Polynesia, is the only airline offering service to the Marquesas—and only from Tahiti. Service onboard the company’s 78 seat jet-powered propeller aircraft is generally available once daily. Flights typically leave in the early morning and service both Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa (the order alternates on specific days) before returning to Tahiti in the late afternoon. Nonstop flight time to and from Tahiti averages three hours. 

On Nuku Hiva, the airport is a 90-minute drive from Taiohae. On Hiva Oa, the airport Autona is just a short drive from Atuona, the island’s principle village.

On either island, the hotels will typically offer transfers for a nominal fee. Many pensions will include transfers in the rate. In either case, it’s customary to provide flight arrival and departure details at the time of booking. 

Car or scooter rentals aren’t particularly necessary on either island, as the commercial centers are generally walkable and hotel guests can take advantage of free shuttles. There are virtually no commercial or public facilities outside the villages. Because most of the island’s popular sites are remote, most visitors join land or ocean-going tours. 

Money Matters

The French Pacific Franc is the currency of French Polynesia. 

Tipping is uncommon in French Polynesia. Tour guides seem to be an exception, although even they don’t generally expect gratuities. 

Credit and debit cards are less widely accepted in the Marquesas than on Tahiti. There are banks and ATMs in Taiohae and Atuona, but it’s a good idea to bring some cash from Tahiti (there’s an ATM at Faa’a International Airport for those making direct connections). 

Bargaining the sales price of an item is not customary in the Marquesas.

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Exploring the Marquesas Islands: Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa

When I went to French Polynesia I didn’t plan on visiting the Marquesas. While they looked amazing, I was already spending a month island-hopping across the islands around Tahiti which, if you didn’t already know, definitely did not come cheap. But, the longer I spent in French Polynesia the more I fell in love. And the more people I met the more I heard incredible things about the Marquesas. So, I changed my flights home and extended my French Polynesia trip by another week so that I could visit the Marquesas. It was the best decision and I’m so thankful I went because these islands are so different from anywhere I’ve ever been. So if you are thinking of planning a trip to the Marquesas islands, here is what you need to know and what to see and do in Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa.

A Little Bit About the Marquesas

The Marquesas, known locally as the “Land of Men” are a chain of islands to the far North of Tahiti. They are considered by many to be some of the most remote yet accessible islands in the entire world, and if you go, you’ll see why.

These islands are unlike anywhere I have ever seen before. Towering cliffs plunge straight down into the depths of the ocean. Tiny roads zigzag through hills, down into lush valleys, and across cliff tops. There are hiking and horseback trails through jungle-like settings where you will find hidden tikis and petroglyphs from an ancient culture. The ocean is strong, with no protective lagoon, yet filled with incredible sea life from manta rays to hammerhead sharks. The people, many of which are covered in tattoos, are some of the warmest and most welcoming you will find.

Despite being a chain of 12 islands, only 6 of the islands are actually inhabited and the Marquesans themselves number only about 10,000 after a violent history that saw the vast majority of these people killed. However, despite their small numbers, the Marquesans are a mighty people with a different language and culture from that of Tahiti. Fishing, hunting, horseback riding, and tattooing are a part of everyday life here.

How to Get to the Marquesas

There are a couple of options for getting to the Marquesas. Most travellers here are actually sailors but, don’t worry, you don’t need a sailboat or a catamaran to visit. There are also regular flights from Tahiti to both Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa with Tahiti Air. If you plan on visiting both islands, your best bet is to buy the Tahiti Air Pass . That being said, it’s still quite pricey. My ticket ended up costing over $1200 CAD. You can also take a boat, there are cargo ships the depart Tahiti and offer rides to passengers on certain days of the week. However, this is also pretty pricey and takes much longer so if you aren’t sailing I highly recommend you fly.

When to Go to the Marquesas

You can visit the Marquesas year round but for the best exploring, you’ll want to visit during the dry season which is November to April. This is opposite to the dry season in the other island chains of French Polynesia so keep that in mind when planning. We lucked in by going to French Polynesia in October and early November because we hit the tail end of the dry season in the Society and Tuamotu islands and the beginning of the dry season in the Marquesas.

How to Get Around the Marquesas

Like the other islands in French Polynesia, public transportation doesn’t really exist. So to get around you will need to either take tours or rent a car. Based on my experience, I suggest doing both. Take some guided tours with locals to learn more about the island and the culture and then rent a car for a day to see a bit more on your own.

Keep in mind that when renting a car in the Marquesas you want a 4×4. Also, like elsewhere in French Polynesia, rental cars are all standard so make sure you can drive that. I would also like to add that driving here is not for the faint of heart. Hiva Oa in particular had some of the worst and scariest roads I have ever seen so if you are a nervous driver then skip renting a car altogether and take a local tour.

How Long to Spend in The Marquesas

I spent 8 nights in the Marquesas and it was perfect for exploring Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa without feeling rushed. You could probably do it with 7 nights but I wouldn’t suggest anything less. These are big islands and things run at slow speeds. While there isn’t necessarily a ton to do tour wise in comparison to some of the other islands in French Polynesia, there is still a lot to see and explore. Plus, these islands aren’t very touristic at all which make them a great place to relax a bit too.  

Things to do in Nuku Hiva

Nuku Hiva is the biggest of the Marquesas and was my favourite. I absolutely loved my time here and felt comfortable and safe the entire time. It’s absolutely stunning as well with some of the most dramatic landscapes I have ever seen spread across the entire island. We drove past flat plains, pine forests, past a deep gorge which our host jokingly told us was the Grand Canyon’s little brother, and of course lush jungle-type landscape and beaches.

The main town is Taiohae, this is where I suggest you stay. It’s located in a crescent shaped bay and is where you will find everything you need from grocery stores to ATMs, restaurants, the tourist office and more. Accommodation options are mostly guest house type places but there is one resort. For ideas on where to stay in Nuku Hiva take a look at:

• Pension Mave Mal which is where I stayed. Simple and basic but very friendly owner. 
• Fare Manutea  comes highly recommended as well

We spent 4 days in Nuku Hiva which was perfect for exploring and relaxing. I recommend making sure that you add the following things to do in Nuku Hiva to your itinerary:

Explore Taiohae

Taiohae is the main town and while it is small it is worth a walk around to see and explore. A couple of highlights include the giant tiki statue at the top of the hill overlooking the bay- you can’t miss it! Below, by the docks, you will also find the fishermen. If you visit early in the morning, you’ll see them cleaning their catches right there on the docks and throwing the scraps into sharks and rays. It’s kinda cool to see the frenzy. Also, make sure to visit the local artisan market. If you are looking for an authentic souvenir from the Marquesas, this is the best (and cheapest) place to buy wooden carvings. I got a beautiful wooden manta ray.

Join an Island Tour with a Local

Jumping on a 4×4 guided tour with a local has a lot of perks and benefits and makes it easy to see the highlights. From stunning viewpoints to the local artisan market to historical ceremonial sites, all while learning the stories and histories of the islands and culture along the way. Combining this tour with your drive from the airport will allow you to see the main highlights and scenic spots of the island. To book a tour, go visit the tourism office in town and ask about an island tour. Colette (or whoever is working that day) will have a list of which tours are going when and be able to get you on one that fits your schedule.

Vaipo Waterfall

This 4-hour hike makes for a fun adventure day and is one of the top things to do in Nuku Hiva. You’ll take a boat from the docks in Taiohae to another bay with a beautiful black sand beach where you will start the trek. The journey is not steep but it is incredibly uneven so wear good shoes, watch your footing, and bring lots of drinking water! The waterfall, when I went, was more of a ‘wet mountain’ as it was the dry season and there hadn’t been any rain for a while. But it was a fun journey and we got to swim in the cave and do a bit of cliff jumping inside which was fun! Just don’t stay too still in the water, there seemed to be tiny shrimp that liked to pinch! If you like, you can order lunch and fresh juice from a local family at an additional cost. Your guide will ask you if you want to order before you start. Again, to book this tour, speak with someone at the tourism office in town.

Swim at Colette’s Bay

At the right side of the bay in which Taiohae is located, there is a path that leads you over the hill to Colette’s Bay, a nice beach for swimming. If you talk to the locals, they will tell you it’s a ‘walk’ but it’s definitely more of a hike. The roads are STEEP to get there and it gets hot. Really hot. We, stupidly, decided to go in the middle of the day and were close to dead by the time we actually arrived at the bay. Which was really nice and swimming felt amazing after being drenched in sweat. However, I would only recommend this so-called walk if you are in pretty good shape. If not, consider renting a car. We lucked out and a local family let us ride back in their truck with them. I’ve never been so thankful in my life.

If you have more time or are looking for other ideas of things to do in Nuku Hiva consider:

• Horseback riding
• Hiring a local to take you hiking (or even hunting)
• Renting a car and driving around the island yourself
• Scuba diving (there is 1 dive shop at the pier. Ask the locals to point you in the right direction)

Things to do in Hiva Oa

Hiva Oa is the second island that most people visit when they go to the Marquesas. While not quite as dramatic as Nuku Hiva, Hiva Oa is still beautiful and has enough to keep you busy for a few days.

Again, I recommend making sure you stay in the main town, Atuona, close to stores and restaurants so that you can easily walk for food, water, and any other supplies. We stayed in a cute Airbnb but it was a 30 minute walk to town which wasn’t ideal during the day or the night. 

My suggestions for things to do in Nuku Hiva include the following:

Explore Atuona

Atuona is the main town of Hiva Oa and there is a fair amount to see and do here to keep you busy for a good chunk of the day. If you are a museum enthusiast, you can check out the Jacques Brel and Paul Gaugin museums. You can also find their graves in the Calvary Cemetary which also offers a beautiful view over Atuona. For souvenirs, make sure to head to the Artisan market. I picked up some beautiful artwork of manta rays here (cash only!).

Join an Island Tour in Search of Tikis

Hiva Oa is famous for its tiki statues, many of which are located at Te L’ipona which includes the biggest tiki in French Polynesia. I highly suggest doing a tour for this. We rented a car and drove and, quite honestly, it was terrifying. I actually searched ‘how many tourists died driving in Hiva Oa’ when we returned. On top of not having to worry about the drive, a tour will also give you the history and the stories which we missed by doing it on our own. Also, your tour should include a visit to the smiling tiki or Tiki Souriant which is, in my opinion, the best tiki.

Rent a Car and Explore

The drive to Te L’ipona is insane, but the rest of the island isn’t too bad. So you can rent a car for a day and do a bit of leisurely exploring on your own. The island is not very big and most of it doesn’t even have road access so there is no rush. You can take your time. We went up to Hanaipa, which is actually the start of a big hike to the famous Hanatekuua Beach (which we did not do), and over to Taaoa to see the historical sites and beach over there.

Join a Day Trip to Tahuata Island

Tahuata island is the smallest inhabited island in the Marquesas and an easy boat ride from Hiva Oa. If you are lucky, you’ll even spot some manta rays along the way. Join a local guide who will take you over and show you the artisan village, a historical site where you can learn about the history of human sacrifices, and more. You’ll finish the day at a pristine beach perfect for swimming and relaxing before you head back to Hiva Oa. For an English tour guide (for both Tahuata Island and Island tour of Hiva Oa) get in touch with Bryan at this email address: [email protected])

Final Tips for Travelling to The Marquesas

The Marquesas were one of my favourite parts of my trip to French Polynesia and despite being so expensive, to me, it was worth it. I’m so glad I got to experience this chain of islands and I really do recommend them to any other adventurous travellers out there.

On top of the tips listed above, here are a few other things to be mindful of and know before you go.

First off, bring bug spray. You’ll hear the locals talk about no-nos which are tiny sandflies with truly horrible bites. Unfortunately, they tend to be found at the nicer beaches and often chase tourists away. So pack lots of bug spray.

Secondly, there is very little English in the Marquesas. In fact, we only came across 2 local men who spoke English during our entire time in Hiva Oa. Even the tourist office was French only. So make sure to brush up on your French skills before you visit and learn some basics.

Thirdly, when it comes to accommodation unless you are renting a car be sure to stay in the main towns so you can walk to and from grocery stores and restaurants. You can’t drink tap water in the Marquesas so at the very least you want to make sure it’s easy to find fresh drinking water.

Finally, know before you go, cell phone reception and wifi are pretty terrible in these islands. Your best bet is to try to download some offline maps ahead of time and visit the tourism office for a paper map for any navigation.

PS: My trip with my friend Chantae was a research trip for her to write the official Moon guide book to the islands. It is now available and you can grab a copy here to help plan your French Polynesia adventures.

Ready to Book Your Trip?

Don’t forget travel insurance!

Please do not travel without travel insurance! I’ve had to use it multiple times throughout my travels and it has saved me thousands of dollars. You can learn more about travel insurance  here . If you are looking for a provider I love and recommend  SafetyWing . For Canadian readers, take a look at  SoNomad.

Book your accommodation

I love and recommend  booking.com  for accommodation. They have a range of hostels, guesthouses, hotels, and resorts. Plus, the platform has a great loyalty program that means the more you book, the more you can save. 

Book your tours

My go-to tour provider that I love to recommend is  GetYourGuide . They have options all over the world and partner with local companies for everything from day trips to food experiences and even airport transfers. 

Get connected

If you want to have data while travelling for online maps or any other needs, an esim is one of the easiest solutions. I’m a big fan of Airalo and have used their sim cards around the world from Brazil to Uzbekistan, Greece to the USA. It’s really easy- you download the app, pick what country you want an esim for, and after you purchase it follow the installation instructions. You can use promo code HANNAH3326 to save $3USD on your next esim purchase. 

Not sure what to pack?

I have destination-specific guides for some countries but you can also check my  travel essentials  and  camera gear  if you are looking for some ideas. 

Looking for a travel buddy?

Check out my group trips!

Great information for my planning thank you

Have the best time!

I am trying to find a 4×4 tour in Nuku Hiva for November 11th and 12th. The ones I found out online don’t answer Do you recommend someone?

sorry for the delay I was off-grid travelling. I hope you found someone!

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Marquesas Islands

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Travel Guide

Marquesas islands, resurrected archipelago.

More than 800 miles north of Tahiti, the Marquesas archipelago is one of the most remote and isolated lands in the world. Two districts group the northern islands with Nuku Hiva , and those of the south around Hiva Oa . Only half of the twelve islands are inhabited. Their sparse population leaves room for numerous wilderness areas, still preserved from human activity. Of the native civilization, formerly prosperous, remain archaeological vestiges of an inestimable value. This cultural singularity, coupled with an exceptional geology and biodiversity, led the Marquesas Islands to present their candidacy for Unesco World Heritage listing in January 2023. The answer will be given in the summer of 2024.

About the Marquesas Islands

Location: Marquesas Archipelago

Area: 1,000 km² (12 islands)

Population: 9,800 inhabitants

Main City: Taihoae (Nuku Hiva)

From Tahiti: 1,300 km, 180 mins

Airports: Nuku Hiva, Hiva Oa, Ua Pou and Ua Huka

Why Visit the Marquesas Islands

The Marquesas lands oscillate between desolation and abundance. The arid and terrible landscapes are followed by a magnificent contrast of lush forests and brightly colored bays. The Marquesas Islands are volcanic islands, devoid of lagoon and flanked by powerful cliffs. Their relief reflects immense mountainous massifs, surmounted by impressive peaks. Their black sand beaches complete a picture far from the clichés of French Polynesia and mass tourism.

These fantastic islands have consecrated the Marquesan people, heirs of the tiki civilization, where memory is inscribed in stone, wood and on the skin. The encounter with the Western world in the 18th century led to the near extinction of this culture and its people. In the 1980s, a new generation announced the revival of identity, resurrecting the customs and habits long forbidden or hidden by the occupying power. The Marquesas Islands remember their original name: Te Hunua Enana, or the Land of Men. An initiatory journey to meet a people who carry their heritage high and live in harmony with a formidable and tormented nature.

The Essentials of the Marquesas Islands

1. marquesan culture.

Because of the geographical isolation, the Marquesan culture has been built according to an original model, which despite the prohibitions has kept its strength and its particularities. The islands are the most homogeneous cultural epicenter of French Polynesia. The Polynesian arts thus sublimated resplendent tattooed bodies, maohi dances and finely sculpted pieces. Every two years, the artists gather at the Marquesas Islands Arts Festival around a renewed theme. The next edition is held in December 2023 on Nuku Hiva.

The culture of the islands is based on an exceptional archaeological heritage. The forced evangelization in the 19th century was not accompanied by the systematic destruction of ancient religious and community spaces: they had mostly fallen into oblivion. Today, the Marquesas Islands have more than a thousand such sites and their inhabitants continue to discover new ones. Now maintained, these sites are becoming the formidable vectors of present-day Marquesan culture.

2. An Incredible Nature

The Marquesas Islands have an exceptional geology, creating rough and fantastic landscapes. For example, Nuku Hiva and its large arid canyon, or Ua Pou and its monumental basaltic peaks in the shape of needles. However, the mysterious often gives way to the marvelous. Nature has endowed the islands with creeks of great beauty. In Fatu Hiva, the Bay of Virgins is one of the most beautiful in the world. Often, these quiet places hide magnificent beaches.

Escaping pollution, the archipelago is like a natural laboratory. In the heart of the rainforests or on the sides of the mountains, many plant species are endemic. Some uninhabited islands have even been transformed into reserves in order to ensure the biodiversity and the perenniality of animal species. The seabed abounds with a numerous and diversified fauna.

3. A Responsible Tourism

The Marquesas Islands are a true sanctuary in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Although the geographical isolation is a brake on economic development, the population does not want to give up its harmonious way of life and still refuses, for example, the construction of hotel complexes or industrial fishing. Their motto: respect for natural resources.

Coming to the Marquesas is opting for a sustainable tourism, concerned with biodiversity and local cultures. It is good to live with the inhabitants, to share their daily life and to appreciate their current or ancestral customs. The treks on foot or on horseback take place over a whole day, discovering spaces that are often virgin and deserted. This “slow tourism” allows you to feel the Mana of the islands .

The Marquesas Islands in a Nutshell

The Marquesas Islands offer a complete immersion. Carried by strong cultural identities, they are resolutely on the fringe of the usual tourist itineraries. Faced with the power of the harsh and enchanting landscapes, solitude and introspection are the order of the day in the Marquesas. It is not so much a matter of discovering Polynesia in a different way as of meeting another Polynesia.

For a stay including all the inhabited islands, count on two to three weeks at least. Visiting the Marquesas Islands requires time and organization; also a good physical condition to take part in the pedestrian activities. An alternative to a solo trip would be to take a cruise aboard the mixed cargo ship Aranui which supplies each island of the archipelago by sea. Contact us for more information.

Good to Know

Transportation: To get to the Marquesas Islands , you must first take a flight from Tahiti to Nuku Hiva or Hiva Oa. Then, domestic flights or sea shuttles will allow you to reach the other islands of the archipelago.

Time Difference: The Marquesas Islands have their own time zone (UTC-09:30), half an hour ahead of Papeete and Hawai (UTC-10:00). Remember to set your watch forward when you arrive in Nuku Hiva or Hiva Oa.

Climate: Close to the equator, the islands have a humid tropical climate. Some areas, especially in the north, are deprived of regular winds from the south and have a tropical arid climate.

Language: Marquesan is a different language from Tahitian and is closer to Hawaiian. It is declined in dialects according to the northern (eo enana) and southern (eo enata) groups of the archipelago.

Explore the Marquesas Islands

Check out Our Practical Tips, Recommendations & Ideas for Your Stay!

Getting to Marquesas Islands: Flights and Itineraries

Best Time to Visit the Marquesas Islands: The Right Season!

Hiva Oa: Finding the Garden of the Marquesas Islands

Nuku Hiva: Discover the Power of the Marquesas Islands

Things to Do in the Marquesas Islands: The Best Activities !

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Marquesas Islands

Home » Marquesas Islands

The Marquesas Islands are situated 1,500 km to the northeast of Tahiti . A land of tales and legends, called Te Henua ‘Enata in the Marquesan language, which means ‘The Land of Men’. The rugged landscape with its craggy mountains, cascading waterfalls and majestic bays, is home to an impressive number of archeological sites. Everywhere you go in these mystical islands, you are envelopped in the spiritual force that is part of Marquesan culture, the mana .

Why visit the Marquesas Islands?

The biggest island in the archipelago with lofty mountain peaks which slope steeply down into the blue Pacific Ocean. The island’s main village, Taioha’e, is situated in a large bay which bears the same name. Taioha’e is also also the regional capital. The local population is famed for the warm and friendly welcome it gives visitors to this rugged island. Rich in archeological sites and ancient legends Nuku Hiva is home to a thriving ancestral culture.

Hiva Oa is known as the ‘garden of the Marquesas Islands’ because of its very fertile soil and lush vegetation. The intense green countryside hides roads and houses from view. The craggy mountains and deep valleys are home to a multitude of archeological sites and vestiges of an ancient civilization. Among these are the biggest tiki statues in The Islands of Tahiti. The beaches of Hiva Oa are of volcanic black sand and lie in the shade of rocky cliffs. Atuona, the main village, is deep in Taaoa Bay, at the foot of Mount Temetiu, which rises to 1,276 meters and Mount Fe’ani which is 1,016 meters high. The village cemetery is the last resting place of the artist Paul Gauguin and the singer Jacques Brel.

There are four immense basalt pillars in Ua Pou, two of which, Poutetaunui and Poumaka reach high into the sky. In 1888, Robert Louis Stevenson described them as two ‘volcanic arrows like church bell-towers’. They are said to represent ancient warriors and they stand guard over the island’s main village of Hakahau in the bay below.

Ua Huka is reputed for its dry soil and magnificent countryside. Wild horses gallop around on the arid plains and wild goats climb the slopes and ridges of this mystical island. Ua Huka is unspoiled and authentic, a land where the ancestors are part of the everyday life of the islanders.

Accessible only from the sea, Tahuata is a haven of peace and tranquility, full of pleasant surprises for the visitor. A mountainous island with fertile valleys and crystal clear waters, where the local inhabitants earn their living by selling superb sculptures in bone or miro (rosewood). They also produce mono’i, the famous Tahitian oil extracted from dried coconuts and perfumed with flowers such as the tiare Tahiti or frangipani.

Fatu Hiva is the most isolated of the inhabited islands in the archipelago. Accessible only from the sea, it is a small, but beautiful island with high mountains and lush green valleys. In 1937, Thor Heyerdahl and his wife exchanged their modern lifestyle for the natural authenticity of Fatu Hiva. It was here that he developped his erroneous theory that the Polynesians originally migrated to these islands from South America. The inhabitants live close to the village of Omoa, where they make traditional tapa cloth from the bark of the mulberry tree. One of the most picturesque sites in the South Pacific is the ‘Bay of Virgins’ at Hanavave, where the setting sun makes the mountain peaks glow like burning embers.

The Marquesas Islands

Not to be missed

What to do in the Marquesas Islands

Rugged and mystical, the Marquesas Islands are a land where the ancestral culture thrives to this day. Hiking, horseback riding, superb dive sites, and an immense wealth of archeological treasures, will fill your vacation with unforgettable moments and wonderful souvenirs.

You’ll also enjoy

Activities in the Marquesas Islands

Follow in the footsteps of Brel and Gauguin, or explore the hills and valleys on horseback. There are a multitude of activities to help you discover and appreciate the ‘Land of Men’.

The Most Beautiful Sites in the Marquesas Islands

There are so many magnificent sites to visit in the Marquesas Islands that’s it’s almost impossible to select just 10 of them. The rugged, beauty, thriving culture and fascinating history of these islands make them a unique and captivating destination. Here is a selection of just some of the superb sites to visit in the “Land of Men.”

Getting there and getting around

It’s a long way to the Marquesas Islands, wherever you’re coming from. You can get there by plane in a few hours, or by boat in a few days.

Be inspired

Experiences

The Marquesas Islands are rich in natural sites and traditional culture. Experience the Mana in the Land of Men.

The Tiki of Taaoa and the Upeke Archeological Site

Hiking and Excursions in Ua Pou

Buying a handwoven basket

A Tahitian Guesthouse: Authentic Polynesian Hospitality

Best of the little-known beaches The Islands of Tahiti

The Unique Wildlife of the Marquesas Islands

Vacations in the marquesas islands the accommodations of your dreams.

Accommodations in Hiva Oa

Accommodations in Ua Pou

Accommodations in Ua Huka

Vacation packages for the Marquesas Islands

Book your trip

See our selected vacation packages for French Polynesia. Meet the local population, explore their unspoiled environment and discover their enviable way of life.

Marquesas Islands by Sea

Fakarava, Marquesas Islands, Other Tuamotu Islands, Rangiroa, Tahiti

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Marquesas Islands

CRUISE IN THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS

Mythical and mystical. A land that has beckoned explorers and inspired writers, painters and artists. A rugged and breath-taking landscape of peaks, valleys, plateaus, and cliffs. A nation of proud and formidable warriors long ago, distinct from Tahitians, with their own language and culture. A people where a simple smile will win them over. The Marquesas Islands is a world unto itself.

Located 1,500 km northeast of Tahiti, the Marquesas archipel ago consists of 12 islands, only 6 of which are inhabited. The Marquesas Islands emerge from the Pacific Ocean , high and lush. Nature is raw and its charm powerful. It is a land of stories and legends, as fascinating as it is unforgettable. Welcome to the Marquesas, the “Land of Men”.

Henua Enana should be the name one retains of the Marquesas. Each island of the archipelago is one of the foundation pillars of a divine house, built for mankind by Oatea and his wife Atanua.

The two large pillars are represented by the island of Ua Pou ; the ridge beam by Hiva Oa ; the other beams and rafters by Nuku Hiva ; Fatu Hiva, representing the roof; and Tahuata the light at dawn; Mohotani, the song of a bird; and all the remains from the construction became the island of Ua Huka. After the era of the gods came the era of men. However, Spanish prowess, having launched its galleons all over the world as early as the 15th century, decided otherwise. Thus the name Marquesas was given by the Spanish explorer Alvaro de Mendana in 1595, while the four southern islands, observed or explored by sailors from the Spanish expedition, were given the names of saints: Santa Magdalena (Fatu Hiva), Santa Dominica (Hiva Oa), Santa Cristina (Tahuata) and San Pedro (the black rock of Mohotani). The Northern ones were given the honour by an American Joseph Ingraham, , in 1791, who renamed them: Ua Huka became Federal; Nuku Hiva, Washington and Ua Pou, Adams Island.

Posterity soon forgot those names which the Marquesans had always ignored. Meanwhile the Frenchman Etienne Marchand took possession of the archipelago in the name of France and its new regime. These now became the islands of the revolution. History takes a passing delight in these titbits, although only the name ‘Marquesas’ remains. From this administrative denomination, poetry took hold and finally we, the islanders, loved the gentleness of its name. But for you, visitors who wish to feel the history and emotional power of the Marquesas, remember this: these islands at the end of the world are called Henua Enana, the Land of Men.

According to Marquesan legend, the creation of the archipelago represents a house built by the god Oatea for his wife Atanua.

Located in the northern South Pacific Ocean, 1,500 km northeast of Tahiti , the Marquesas are one of the most remote archipelagos in the world. The Marquesas are spread over 12 islands (11 high islands and 1 atoll), of which only six are inhabited: Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Ua Huka, Tahuata, Hiva Oa and Fatu Hiva. Due to their geographical isolation, discovering the Marquesas Islands is a unique experience during a stay in Polynesia. The best way to get there, and sometimes the only way, is on board the Aranui, the essential link with the outside world for Marquesans. The Aranui will take you to some of the most remote villages in the world, which no other boat serves.Located in the North of the South Pacific Ocean, 1,500 km northeast of Tahiti, the Marquesas are one of the most remote archipelagos in the world. This volcanic archipelago is composed of 12 islands (11 high islands and 1 atoll), of which only six are inhabited: Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Ua Huka, Tahuata, Hiva Oa and Fatu Hiva. The largest island of the archipelago is Nuku Hiva and is inhabited by about 3000 people. The smallest uninhabited island is Motu Nui, which is only 0.36 km². The Marquesas Islands were discovered in 1595 by Álvaro de Mendaña y Neyra, a Spanish navigator. In 1842, the Marquesas Islands were annexed by France and are now part of French Polynesia. The Marquesas Islands are known as a natural paradise: here, no lagoon, but blocks of lava rising in the middle of the Pacific, streaked with deep green valleys. The Marquesas offer themselves in their authenticity and impose their difference. The Marquesas Archipelago is also known for its unique handicrafts, including tiki statues, wood or bone jewelry, carved pirogues and colorful weavings.

Due to their geographical isolation, discovering the Marquesas Islands is a special experience during a Polynesian holiday (cruise). The best way to get there, sometimes the only way, is on board the cargo ship Aranui, an essential link with the outside world for the Marquesans. The Aranui will take you to some of the most remote villages in the world on an unforgettable cruise, which no other boat serves.

Cooled by the gentle breezes of the South Pacific, the climate of French Polynesia is ideal . Being tropical but moderate, the days are sunny and pleasant, with an average yearly temperature of 27°C, making of French Polynesia a year-round destination. With a hot, humid season during the austral summer (November to April) and a cool, dry season (May to October), the breadth of the geography of French Polynesia means that each group of islands has a slightly different climate. Being closer to the Equator, the Marquesas Islands have a warmer and wetter sub-tropical climate than of the Society Islands. In the Marquesas archipelago, the driest months are between August and December and the wettest months are March and April, although it is frequently sunny. The southern islands of the Marquesas are the wettest, while the northern islands are the driest. The best time to do a cruise in the Marquesas Islands is between May and December-January, when there is less rain. However, it should be noted that all year round is a good time to visit the Marquesas Islands with the Aranui, the experience being above all based on the discovery of the Marquesan culture and traditions.

The flora, originating from South-East Asia and South America, and the terrestrial fauna arrived in the Marquesas by the ocean, pushed by the winds or the Pacific swell. The Marquesas are characterised by a rich endemic flora, which its isolation has succeeded in preserving and conserving to 50%. The Ua Huka Arboretum protects rare or endangered species and is home to many varieties of Pacific trees. Due to its remote location, the archipelago’s terrestrial fauna is limited. Imported from Chile in the 19th century, horses, which Gauguin was so fond of depicting, are omnipresent on the island and often the only means of locomotion from valley to valley. On Ua Uka, often called the “horse island”, one can find wild horses as well as hundreds of goats. The bird, very important in traditional Marquesan society, has a few endemic species including the “pihiti”, found on Ua Huka, the “upe” on Nuku Hiva, and the “pahi” on Tahuata. Although increasingly threatened today, particularly by rats, the birds live rather serenely in the Marquesas.

Until recently, the island’s economic activity was mainly focused on agriculture (copra, lemons, grapefruits) and fishing, but it has gained new impetus, benefiting from the income from public works but also from the exploitation of the “noni”, a fruit with multiple virtues, which is increasingly popular internationally. At the same time, there has been a real boom in the craft and tourism sectors, boosted by the international reputation that its famous guests (Paul Gauguin, Hermann Melville, Jacques Brel) have shaped. Due to its geographical remoteness, maritime freight plays a key function in the economy of the archipelago. The Aranui plays an essential role in this respect, ensuring on the one hand the supply of food products, petroleum products and construction materials and on the other hand the export of local products to Tahiti. Cruises on board our mixed cargo ship are a unique opportunity to witness the unloading of cargo and to meet the local population.

In addition to traditional Polynesian dishes, such as Tahitian raw fish, “umu”, cooked for hours in a buried oven, the Marquesas have their own culinary specialities. These include curried goat, “popoi”, a fermented paste made from taro, a tuber grown on the island’s marshy lands. A staple food for Marquesans, the fruit of the breadfruit tree (“uru”) is eaten grilled over a wood fire, fried or baked, or fermented in silos in the Marquesas. This tree also plays a role in the history of Tahiti, since William Bligh was entrusted with the expedition of 1789, which gave rise to the famous Bounty mutiny, in order to acquire a few feet of this plant to acclimatise it in the British colonies.

In addition to French, the official language of French Polynesia, Marquesan is recognised as a French regional language. Distinct from Tahitian, and closer to Hawaiian, of which it is said to be one of the main ancestors, Marquesan is composed of two dialects: “eo enana”, spoken in the north-west of the archipelago, and “eo enata” spoken in the south-east. In 1977, in reaction to a decree imposing Tahitian as a compulsory language in all Polynesian schools, three courageous teachers from Ua Pou, supported by Bishop Hervé Le Cleac’h, set up the Motu Haka association to defend their language. And in 1985, the Marquesans were authorised to teach their language in primary school, which is an exception in all of Polynesia. After two centuries of prohibition, when Marquesans were never allowed to pray in their own language, we are now witnessing a cultural revival of Marquesan heritage, proud and happy to mark its difference.

THE STOPOVERS OF OUR CRUISES INE THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS

During the cruise to the Marquesas Islands, Aranui 5 will call at each of the six inhabited islands of this mythical archipelago, where it will deliver the freight. While the crew unloads the goods needed by the islanders the passengers visit the islands with the ship’s English-speaking guides. While Aranui 5 offers several cruises in French Polynesia , this cruise to the Marquesas Islands remains it’s main and historic itinerary. As the main cargo carrier to the Marquesas, Aranui 5 has a vital link with this archipelago.

Hiva Oa, the island of artists

According to legend, Hiva Oa is the main beam of God’s “big house.” Today, it is commonly named the “Garden of the Marquesas” thanks to its fertile and lush land. The island features endless untouched nature: green, invading, and bright. Roads and houses are rarely seen. The island’s rugged landscapes blend sharp ridges, peaks and valleys scattered with archaeological sites and ruins, and is home to the largest tiki statues of French Polynesia. Hiva Oa is lined with black sand beaches and sharp cliffs diving in to the Pacific Ocean. The island’s main village, Atuona, is nestled at the end of Taaao Bay and overlooked by the highest mountains (Mount Temetiu – 4,186 ft. and Mount fe’ani – 3,366 ft.). This is also the place where two famous artists chose to live their lives: the French painter Paul Gauguin and the French poet, singer and actor Jacques Brel.

Fatu Hiva, the remote island of the Marquesas

Fatu Hiva symbolizes the roof of Gods’ house: a small but stunning island. Arriving by sea, passengers are greeted by sheer landscapes and pristine vegetation. Fatu Hiva will mesmerize visitors. In 1937, Thor Heyerdahl and his wife, in their search for a genuine return to nature, set foot on the island to live as if at the dawn of the new world. Not much has changed. Today, most local people live around the village of Omoa where they make traditional and renowned tapa out of tree bark. The village of Hanavave is sheltered within an amazing bay: the Bay of the Virgins, probably one of the most beautiful bays on Earth, especially at dusk when the light illuminates the volcanic peaks turning the landscape into an unreal and unforgettable scene.

Ua Pou, mainstay of the Marquesas

Ua Pou symbolizes the entrance pillars to God’s house. Huge basaltic columns reach the sky and hold the names of legendary warriors: Poutetaunui and Poumaka. In 1888, they inspired poet Robert Louis Stevenson, who mentioned them as “volcanic arrows looking like a church bell tower.” They proudly overlook the bay of Hakahau village, the main village on the island.

Ua Huka, the horse island

Ua Huka symbolizes the “food basket” at God’s house and features more untouched beauty and is renowned for its dry soil and landscapes. Wild horses gallop as far as the eye can see around this desert-coloured land. Goats climb up on the island’s high plains. Peaceful and mystical, Ua Huka invites the traveller to discover a secluded universe, where the island’s ancestors are not just a part of the past but still very much part of the islander’s everyday life.

Nuku Hiva, the largest island in the archipelago

If God had a “big house” symbolizing the Marquesas Islands, the largest of them – Nuku Hiva – would represent the top of the framework. The vertiginous volcanic peaks and amazing slopes blend with the blue of the Pacific Ocean. A special universe opens its doors. The starting point of your adventure is Taioha’e, the archipelago’s regional capital, opening at the end of a large bay holding the same name. Outstanding landscapes, an incredible archaeological history, great stories and a rich culture are all to be discovered alongside a friendly population.

Tahuata, the authentic Marquesas Island

Tahuata symbolizes “sunrise” or “the enlightening home” at God’s house: a poetic image expressing reality so well. Small, Tahuata is only accessed by sea from Hiva Oa. The island offers charming discoveries to the privileged traveller. From its fertile valleys to its crystal-clear bays, Tahuata is an exquisite haven of peace, a place of history and creativity. Most inhabitants make a living out of their remarkable fine artwork, such as bone and rosewood – or miro (Thespesia populnea) carving. Mono’i is made following the scents of traditions and secrets, like an invitation to a mesmerizing perfume beautifully named “love potion” by the islanders.

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The Best Way to Visit the Remote Marquesas Islands Is on This Hybrid Cargo Cruise Ship

A single cargo-cruise ship provides a lifeline to the Marquesas Islands, one of the remote archipelagoes that make up French Polynesia.

"This trip is cursed," I said to the woman from the Aranui 5, a Polynesian hybrid cargo-cruise ship, when she called to confirm that, yes, I had COVID, and no, I would not be sailing for the Marquesas Islands the next day. I would be staying where I was: quarantined in a hotel room in Papeete , the capital of French Polynesia .

She laughed. "When I feel that way, I send out good energy, and I say, 'Hey! Curse! Go away!' "

The next evening, I watched from my balcony as the Aranui 5 glided out of the harbor and into the sunset.

The Aranui 5 — its name translates to "the Great Path" — has an unusual silhouette. Its bow deck is low and flat, stacked with shipping containers and surmounted by two yellow cranes. Its stern half holds the white superstructure of a cruise ship, honeycombed with balconies. Business in the front, party in the back. As the name suggests, there have been four previous versions of the Aranui ; this iteration is the fifth family-owned freighter to bear the name since 1960. Sometimes it sails to the Austral or Gambier Islands or to the Cook Islands or to far-flung Pitcairn, but the ship's most frequent and important route is to the rugged, remote, culturally proud Marquesas Islands — a French Polynesian archipelago nearly a thousand miles northeast of Tahiti that famously enchanted Herman Melville, Paul Gauguin, and the Belgian singer Jacques Brel.

Twice monthly the Aranui 5 is an ark that bears the stuff of daily existence to the Marquesas: pallets of food, drums of gasoline, building materials, Toyota trucks, cases of Tahitian Hinano beer, and whatever else is needed. The crew members are Polynesians, including some from the Marquesas, and locals traveling to or from school or work often sleep in dedicated dormitory cabins. The ship has a sense of homecoming.

My first attempt to visit the Marquesas on the Aranui 's 11-night voyage had been thwarted in March 2020 by the COVID shutdown. My second try fizzled in November 2021 for scheduling reasons. Surely the third time, in February 2022, would be the charm. My friend Bailey, exhausted by a pandemic spent running a microbrewery in Nashville and tending to her toddler daughter, was coming along. "WE'RE GOING TO TAHITIIIII!" I had texted after our predeparture PCR tests both came back negative.

So imagine my dismay when, 30 hours later, while waiting at the baggage claim, I learned my arrival test was positive. "You will need to quarantine for seven days," an official said as he photographed my passport and slid a serious-looking French-language document across the table for me to sign. "Go to your hotel, and do not leave."

Twice monthly the Aranui 5 is an ark that bears the stuff of daily existence to the Marquesas: pallets of food, drums of gasoline, building materials, Toyota trucks, cases of Tahitian Hinano beer. The ship has a sense of homecoming.

Fortunately, one of the many perks of being a travel journalist is that you get help with curses and logistics, and within a day, the endlessly patient professionals who'd been working on this trip since 2019 had cobbled together a plan. I would send Bailey off to the neighboring island of Moorea while I quarantined (my case was mild — thanks, booster shot), and then we would travel together for a week, flying to the islands of Taha'a and Bora-Bora. After that, Bailey would go home, and I would catch the Aranui 's next sailing. My two-week trip had ballooned into a month.

The first night after my quarantine ended, Bailey and I found ourselves on a sublimely peaceful islet near the island of Taha'a, sitting on the deck of an overwater bungalow at Pearl Resorts' Le Taha'a, drinking Hinanos and watching a pastel sunset turn the ocean to mother-of-pearl. Hey! Curse! Go away! We swam with rays and reef sharks. We toured a pearl farm, a rum distillery, and a vanilla farm.

At the freshly renovated Le Bora Bora, another property from the Polynesian-owned Pearl Resorts, we snorkeled and kayaked and lounged and watched sheets of rain sweep across the lagoon, the clouds clearing to reveal a full moon over the jutting, toothlike summit of Mount Otemanu, Bora-Bora's iconic peak.

Then Bailey went home, and, finally, almost unbelievably, I boarded the Aranui .

We sailed in the late afternoon and made our first landing the next day on Kauehi, in the Tuamotu Archipelago. The Tuamotus form the largest chain of atolls in the world. From airplanes and satellites, they resemble turquoise amoebas;from the ship, they were low, bright lines of sand that barely breached the water, all crowded with coconut palms.

As the Aranui entered Kauehi's 123-square-mile lagoon, the roll of the ocean ceased. Once the ship was at anchor, the 68 passengers and many of the 83 crew members motored to the atoll's only village, Tearavero. The gathering felt like a relaxed beach party. Local guys hacked open young coconuts and handed them out with paper straws. Women sat in plastic chairs in the shade, watching children play. The crew set up an awning, and a casual ukulele band formed.

I snorkeled over rippled white sand in warm, shallow water, and then I sat in the shade, listening to the crew and the villagers sing. Before this trip, I had not fully appreciated how lovely ordinary voices can be, offered unselfconsciously, just for the pleasure of singing.

"All French Polynesian people know how to sing," said Lehi Tehiva, one of our guides. "It doesn't matter what island they are from. They are all singers."

I've always felt odd about recommending destinations based on "the people," when people are by definition a mixed bag, no matter where they live. Pretending otherwise, even in praise, can seem reductive. But it's true that French Polynesia's warm, relaxed vibe comes as much from its residents as from its natural tropical splendor. People are welcoming and proud of their islands. And everyone can sing.

Unlike on most cruise ships, the Aranui' s crew and passengers hang out together on the stern decks and in the lounges. The arrangement, like the ship itself, is comfortable, inclusive, and lively.

When the ship was at sea, I divided my time between my simple, pleasant suite and a shaded chaise overlooking the pool, where I read Paul Theroux's 1992 book, The Happy Isles of Oceania: Paddling the Pacific, which has a chapter about his voyage on an earlier Aranui. ("The Marquesas were a world apart," he wrote, and so it seemed, as we rolled onward and onward into the empty blue sea.) Unlike on most cruise ships, the Aranui 's crew and passengers hang out together on the stern decks and in the lounges. The arrangement, like the ship itself, is comfortable, inclusive, and lively. "We are a family here," more than one guide told me.

The next morning, as I stood on the top deck in the early light, I could see Nuku Hiva's striated coastal cliffs, which were reddish and stippled with dry vegetation. The island rose up to a mountainous ridgeline, its peaks topped with basalt spires and its flanks cut through with deep, jungled valleys. The administrative center of the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva is the archipelago's largest and most populous island, with almost 3,000 residents. When the Aranui docked and the bustle of unloading Nuku Hiva's share of the cargo began, islanders in Toyota pickups queued for their deliveries. Drivers with 4 x 4s were waiting to take the passengers on a tour of the island.

Our convoy went first to Notre-Dame, a Catholic cathedral built of volcanic stone in the main village, Taiohae. At the front, near the baptismal font, a wooden statue of a lei-wearing Virgin Mary held baby Jesus, who, in one arm, cradled a breadfruit. Historically, breadfruit was the essential food source of the Marquesas, especially valued because it could be fermented and preserved in specially dug pits for years as insurance against drought.

Behind the church was the grave of Bishop Hervé Marie Le Cléac'h, a French clergyman who'd been sent to the Marquesas in 1977 after stirring up trouble in Quebec. Le Cléac'h was the first to translate Mass into Marquesan, which had become a taboo language, forcibly supplanted by French and Tahitian. The year after Le Cléac'h arrived, an association called Motu Haka was formed to resurrect traditions that missionaries and colonizers had nearly eradicated: song, dance, tattooing, sculpture, tapa (a textile made from tree fibers that was once used for garments and now for decoration), farming, fishing, and traditional medicine. Le Cléac'h lent crucial support to the organization, which still exists today. "The missionaries stopped the culture, but a bishop rebirthed it," said Benjamin Teikitutoua, a retired Marquesan teacher and vice president of Motu Haka, who was a guest lecturer on the Aranui. "Some Marquesans thought the old ways were bad and pagan, so it was helpful that a priest said, 'No, this is okay. It's good.' "

Motu Haka's task was monumental. Not only had traditional practices been purposefully discouraged, and even banned, but the generations that could have passed down cultural knowledge had been decimated by disease. The population of the Marquesas is estimated to have been between 70,000 and 100,000 when Captain James Cook visited in 1774. In the 1920s, it was as low as 1,200. Today a little more than 9,000 people live across the archipelago's six inhabited islands. In rebuilding their culture, Marquesans salvaged what oral history they could and utilized decades-old ethnographies written by outsiders.

Related : French Polynesia Is Known for Its Stunning Beaches and Resorts — but a Younger Generation Is Working to Highlight Its Rich Traditions

Take, for instance, tattooing. In 1922, an American woman named (delightfully) Willowdean Chatterson Handy compiled and published a painstaking record of all the Marquesan tattoos she could find, designs that had been evolving over probably 2,000 years. (The Marquesas were the likely jumping-off point for the habitation of Hawaii and Rapa Nui, or Easter Island.) At the time, Handy knew she was documenting a dying art but could not possibly have guessed that, a century later, not only would tattoos in the Marquesas have come roaring back but artists on the islands would still be referring to her diagrams. There was even a tattoo parlor on the Aranui. A small, tantalizing sidebar on our daily schedules said, "Make a tattoo appointment with Moana at the restaurant."

Moana turned out to be a stocky, friendly Marquesan waiter who wore a necklace of huge, curving boar's teeth. I was curious how many takers he would have. The passengers didn't necessarily seem like the inking type, unlike the crew, who almost universally had gorgeous Polynesian tattoos: geometric patterns, Marquesan crosses, thick black bands of stylized manta rays.

Our next stop on Nuku Hiva was an archaeological site. Thirty thousand people had once inhabited Tohua Kamuihei, an extensive settlement of terraced stone platforms now mostly swallowed by the jungle. Here and there were ancient petroglyphs; wide-mouthed, lichen-fuzzed stone tikis; and pristine reconstructions of thatched shelters. There were pits for storing breadfruit and sacred sites where cannibalistic rituals had once taken place. Under a towering banyan tree said to be up to 600 years old, drummers and dancers performed, chanting and calling, their mostly bare bodies adorned with swishing fronds; the men wore necklaces of animal teeth. The sensation that we were watching something timeless was only dispelled when the applause ended and the dancers pulled their surgical masks back on. (The mask requirement has since been dropped.)

Lunch was at Chez Mamie Yvonne, a restaurant in the village of Hatiheu, where we filled our plates with breadfruit, pork, and smoky little red bananas that had been slow-roasted for hours in an umu, an underground oven. There was raw fish in coconut milk, too, and chicken stir-fried in a sweet soy sauce. Po'e, a chewy banana-and-coconut pudding, was dessert. A band played near the bar — guitars and ukuleles and pahus (drums carved from single pieces of wood) — and it took me a while to realize the musicians were the same performers who had danced under Tohua Kamuihei's banyan tree, only they were now in baseball caps and board shorts, singing so easily.

The performances I saw were joyful, triumphant, even defiant. This was something outsiders had tried and failed to suppress. This was something that belonged to the islands.

The next day, at the island of Ua Pou, where there was a school right on the beach, children swam out to the ship to play on the ropes. In the afternoon, they stayed for hours, splashing and shouting.

And so we continued on. "Pay attention to which island talks to you," Tehiva told us. Ua Huka was red and dry, populated by wild horses. Hiva Oa, lush and green, greeted us with a rainbow. This was the island made famous by Paul Gauguin, who spent his final two years there suffering from morphine addiction, spreading syphilis to young girls, and creating indelible artworks. I asked Tehiva what French Polynesians made of Gauguin. "Of his art, they are proud," he said, and seamlessly changed the subject to Jacques Brel, who is buried near Gauguin. Brel used his own small plane, Jojo, to help out locals, and so, Tehiva said a little pointedly, he is remembered fondly. Hiking from the ship to the cemetery, I fell into conversation with a German woman whose lifelong dream had been to come to the Marquesas. After surviving breast cancer, she'd taken the plunge, and she pulled up her pant leg to show me a fresh tattoo on her calf. "Everything about it felt right," she said. "For me it was a profound experience."

By the end of the trip, by my count, Moana had given tattoos to at least 10 passengers. I asked him if there were any tattoos that were reserved for Marquesans, deemed too special for outsiders. He furrowed his brow and shook his head. No. Later, when I mentioned this to Tehiva, he said, "It is because they are a giving people. They give."

Fortunately, they also sell. No landing was complete without a trip to a handicraft market. Tahuata, which resembles Kauai with its fluted green cliffs, is known for bone carvings. I bought a silky white pendant in the shape of a whale for my mother. On Fatu Hiva, where the specialty is tapa, I found a small version depicting an octopus. It now hangs in my office. On Ua Huka, which is known for its woodwork, I got my boyfriend a ukulele.

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Just as I hadn't expected to fall in love with the music in French Polynesia, I didn't know that I would also be moved by the dancing. Male dancers grimaced ferociously as they chanted and pounded their feet. The women took small, graceful steps, swiveling their hips and singing. The movements referenced pigs, birds, the ocean. Dancers regaled us as we left Papeete; they performed on the ship in Nuku Hiva and at the handicraft market in Ua Pou; crew members hosted regular classes for passengers. Unlike, say, ballet, Marquesan dance doesn't require superhuman flexibility or a fatless body. It asks for stamina, spirit, commitment. The performances I saw were joyful, triumphant, even defiant. This was something outsiders had tried and failed to suppress. This was something that belonged to the islands.

On the seventh night, I woke at 3 a.m. in an ominous sweat. What followed felt a lot like food poisoning but, since the other 67 passengers seemed fine, I am left with no choice but to blame the curse. So it was the fault of the curse that I didn't get to see the archaeological site at Te I'ipona, on Hiva Oa, with its nearly eight-foot-tall tiki, the largest in Polynesia. It was thanks to the curse that, still dehydrated and ill, I didn't get to do the nine-mile hike on Fatu Hiva that I'd been looking forward to. Instead, I sat on my balcony and watched the sun and clouds play over the island's green cliffs, and that had to be good enough.

The gods of travel are capricious. Sometimes they let you slide onto your flight with seconds to spare or nudge you down an unpromising alley where you find the best meal of your life. Sometimes they give you both COVID and a stomach bug in the space of one trip. The travel gods giveth, and the travel gods taketh away.

When you strike out for a vision of an imaginary paradise — Gauguin's paintings, brochure photos of palms on an atoll — it's easy to forget that you must take your body with you, that you will remain yourself no matter where you are, that you will always be vulnerable. In the Marquesas they know that, even if our voices aren't perfect, we are all singers. We're singers because we sing. And in that same way, perfect trips don't make us travelers. Traveling does.

Aranui offers 12-day itineraries from $3,572, all-inclusive.

A version of this story first appeared in the August 2022 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline Special Delivery.

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