farmlands flat tour 2023

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36th Farmlands Flat Tour

May 7, 2022 @ 7:00 am - 5:00 pm.

This family-friendly event has marked routes in a variety of distances, from a leisurely 25-mile jaunt to the ambitious 45-mile, metric (62.5 miles) and century (100 miles)

1) thru Midnight March 23rd $50.00, Minors under 18, $10.00

2) March 24th thru Midnight May 7th $60.00, Minors under 18, $10.00

Start Times

1) Metric Century (62.5 mile) & Century (100 mile)  7am to Noon

2) 25mile & 45 mile 9 am to Noon

Pre-registration includes an event T-Shirt

Note: All online registration ends Midnight May 7th

Tee Shirt option will not be Available after April 21th

Lunch option will not be Available after April 21th

Day of registration will be $60.00 with no T-Shirt, Minors under 18, $10.00 does not include t-shirt

  $10.00 Box Lunch will be available for pre-registration only

This event is fully supported (sags & rest areas)

Accepting most Major Credit Cards for Day of Registration

To expedite the sign in process at the college please remember to bring your  EMAIL   CONFIRMATION  with the QR code the day of the event.

All support services and facilities at college close at 5:30

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• The Amish Experience

Farmlands Tour

For 65 years, the cornerstone of “The Amish Experience” has been the 90-minute guided Amish Farmlands Tour, taking you deep into the heart of the oldest Amish community in the world where you’ll marvel at some of the most beautiful farmland you’ll ever set eyes upon. These are the same fertile fields that attracted and have kept our Amish neighbors here for over 250 years. Our local expert Amish Country Tours guide answers your questions while calling your attention to the fascinating sights we observe along the way… whatever happens to be going on.

When you join us on one of our 14-passenger mini-bus tours of the out-of-the-way back roads and country lanes, you’ll experience a sense of the work and family ethics that continue to mark the Amish way of life. Witness spectacular panoramas of patchwork farms unparalleled in their intrinsic beauty, still farmed with horses and mules. Roadside stands, bake shops, or a visit to a craft or quilt shop on an Amish farm are among the unique happenings enjoyed on your 90-minute Farmlands excursion. 

2024 Farmlands Tour Pricing 

$33.95 ages 13 and up / $19.95 ages 12 and under., our best value is the super saver package, which includes the farmlands tour as well as the homestead and jacob’s choice.  the super saver package is $45.95 per person ages 13 and up, $26.95 ages 4 through 12, and $19.95 ages 3 and under.  no fees for booking online  fully refundable up to 24 hours prior to activity start time.  , (note: if you wish to reserve a seat on our bus for the farmlands tour only this can’t be reserved online.  please call 717-768-8400, ext. 210.), 2024 farmland tour days & times:.

Now through December 31, open every day except Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.  We are closed Thanksgiving Day Thursday, November 28 and Christmas Day Wednesday December 25, 2024.

Now through October 2024, Monday through Saturday, departures are at 10:00am, 12:00pm, 2:00pm, and 4:00pm.  On Sundays, departures are at 12:00pm, 2:00pm, and 4:00pm.

In November Monday through Saturday, departures are at 10:00am, 12:00pm, 2:00pm.  On Sundays, departures are at 12:00pm, 2:00pm.

In December, departures are at 12:00pm and 2:00pm daily.

VIEW ALL PRICES Farmlands Tours are limited to 14 passengers on our mini-buses. If your children ride in a car seat in your car, you must bring those car seats along to place in our bus – it is PA Law. Tour check-in and departure at Amish Experience Theater box office, east parking lot, at Plain & Fancy, Route 340, between Bird-in-Hand and Intercourse. Please arrive at least 15 minutes prior to tour time.  (GPS: 3121 Old Philadelphia Pike, Bird In Hand, PA 17505)  We cannot hold the tour for late-comers.  If you are traveling with pets, please arrange for their care prior to arriving at the Amish Experience as pets are not allowed on our tours.  

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• Review the neighborhood

Lincroft, NJ

36th annual farmlands flat tour event.

Date: May 2, 2020 Location: 765 Newman Springs Rd, , Lincroft, USA 07738, United States

Venue: Central Jersey Bicycle Club

Contact info: phone: 908 229-9596

This family-friendly event has marked routes in a variety of distances, from a leisurely 15,25 mile jaunt to the ambitious 42 mile, metric (62.5 miles) and century (100 miles)

Pre-registration includes an event T-Shirt

  The Following are the fees for online registration:

  1)  thru Midnight March 15th $40.00, c hildren under 18,  $10.00

2) March 16th thru Midnight April 29th $50.00, children  under 18,  $10.00

Note:All online registration ends Midnight April 29th

Tee Shirt Option will not be Availiable after April 20th

Lunch Option will not be Availiable after April 26th

Day of registration will be $50.00 with no T-Shirt, c hildren under 18,  $10.00 does not include t-shirt

$9.00 Box Lunch will be available for pre-registration only

This event is fully supported (sags & rest areas)

  New This Year CJBC will be Accepting most Major Credit Cards for Day of Registration

To expedite the sign in process at the college please remember to bring your  EMAIL   CONFIRMATION  with the QR code  the day of the event.

Event details and schedule

Registration Start Times

To expedite the sign in process at the college please remember to bring your  EMAIL   CONFIRMATION with your QR code  the day of the event.

Parking in lots 1 & 2 (Follow signs)

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• 36th Annual Farmlands Flat Tour event event - Lincroft, NJ 2022

This family-friendly event has marked routes in a variety of distances, ambitious 45 mile, metric (62.5 miles) and century (100 miles) Pre-registration includes an event T-Shirt The Following are the fees for online registration: 1) thru Midnight March 23th $50.00, c hildren under 18, $10.00 2) March 24th thru Midnight April 21st $60.00, children under 18, $10.00 Note:All online registration ends Midnight May 5th Tee Shirt Option will not be Availiable after April 21th Lunch Option will not be Availiable after May 1st Day of registration will be $60.00 with no T-Shirt, c hildren under 18, $10.00 does not include t-shirt $10.00 Box Lunch will be available for pre-registration only This event is fully supported (sags & rest areas) CJBC will be Accepting most Major Credit Cards for Day of Registration To expedite the sign in process at the college please remember to bring your EMAIL CONFIRMATION with the QR code the day of the event. Event details and schedule Registration Start Times 1) Metric Century(62.5 mile) & Century(100 mile) 7 am to Noon 2) 25mile & 45mile 10 am to Noon All support services and facilities at college close at 6 pm To expedite the sign in process at the college please remember to bring your EMAIL CONFIRMATION with your QR code the day of the event. Parking in lots 1 & 2 (Follow signs)

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Bikers and Spinners

Farmlands flat tour.

Date/Time Date(s) - 05/07/2016 All Day

Location Brookdale Community College

• Event Ride Club

This family-friendly event has marked routes in a variety of distances, from a leisurely 18,25, 38 mile jaunt to the ambitious 50 mile, metric (62.5 miles) and century (100 miles)

Pre-registration includes an event T-Shirt 

  The Following are the fees for online registration:

1) thru Midnight March 16th $30.00, children under 18,  $10.00

2) March 17th thru Midnight April 24th $35.00, children under 18,  $10.00

Note:All online registration ends Midnight April 24

Day of registration will be $40.00 with no T-Shirt, children under 18,  $10.00 does not include t-shirt

All Participant will receive a CJBC Water Bottle

$8.00 Box Lunch will be available for pre-registration only

This event is fully supported (sags & rest areas)

http://www.cjbc.org/

Brookdale Community College  •  765 Newman Springs Rd Lincroft, NJ  07738    

Get Out and Ride

albania trip road

Wander-Lush

The Ultimate Albania Road Trip Itinerary — From the Riviera to the Vjosa & Lake Ohrid in 2 Weeks

Looking to check-off all the Albania must-sees and still venture off the tourist trail? My alternative Albania road trip itinerary offers a perfect balance of essential and offbeat destinations over two action-packed weeks.

With affordable rentals, excellent roads and an infinite supply of awe-inspiring landscapes, picturesque villages and dynamic cities, Albania is made for a self-driving adventure.

Driving around Albania this past autumn will go down in history as one of my favourite travel experiences of all time.

Having visited Albania for the first time a few years prior and exclusively relying on public transport, I am in a unique position to compare the two experiences. I can wholeheartedly assure you that renting a car in Albania is 100% worth it – particularly if you are travelling in the shoulder or low season.

While most Albania road trip itineraries focus on the Adriatic Coast, my route ventures to underrated and lesser-travelled parts of the country, including along the Vjosa River Valley and Lake Ohrid.

A tidy loop starting and finishing in the capital, Tirana, it covers all the must-sees in central-south Albania including Berat, Himara and Gjirokaster. It travels two of the country’s most scenic stretches of road, the coastal Llogara Pass and the newly sealed road from Permet to Korca, and includes ample opportunities for adventurous detours.

For all things parking, petrol and other practicalities, see my tips for driving in Albania (coming soon).

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Transparency: Our car rental was sponsored by my long-term partners at Local Rent. All other expenses incurred during our trip were covered by us. I am solely responsible for creating this itinerary without any external input. All recommendations/criticisms are 100% my own.

Places visited on this Albania itinerary

Here is a quick summary of the main destinations on my 2-week itinerary. As you will soon see, there is a whole lot more to see and do between the major stops.

• Tirana — Albania’s fast-evolving capital city.
• Berat & Gjirokaster — twin UNESCO cities in Albania’s lush interior.
• The Albanian Riviera — beaches, canyons & a scenic drive down the Llogara Pass.
• Dhermi , Vuno & Upper Qeparo — charming Albanian villages hidden in the hills behind the beach.
• The Blue Eye — the famous natural pool between Ksamil and Gjirokaster.
• Benja & Sarandaporo — thermal springs in southeastern Albania.
• The Vjosa River — Europe’s last wild river.
• Permet — Albania’s capital of ecotourism & slow food.
• Leskovik — a hidden gem in the wine region & one of Albania’s best boutique accommodations.
• Lin — the oldest village in Europe on the Albanian side of Lake Ohrid.
• Korca — an underrated small city near the Greek border.
• Voskopoja — a village brimming with Byzantine churches.
• Butrint National Park & Apollonia — two of Albania’s premier archaeological sites.

Albania road trip route overview & map

This tried-and-tested driving route is essentially an exact replica of the road trip Ross and I did this autumn (with a few minor adjustments). It is well-paced, with only a couple of big driving days and plenty of down-time.

• Day 0: Arrive in Tirana – stay in Tirana at Konak I Skanderbeg Square
• Day 1: Lunch at Fustanella Farm – drive to Berat – stay in Berat at Josiph B&B
• Day 2: Full day in Berat & Osumi Canyon – stay at Josiph B&B
• Day 3: Visit Apollonia, Fier, Vlora & the Zvernec Islands – drive the Llogara Pass – stay in Dhermi at Roots
• Day 4: Full day in Dhermi – stay at Roots
• Day 5: Visit Vuno, Himara & Porto Palermo Castle – continue to Upper Qeparo – stay in Upper Qeparo at Villa Porta
• Day 6: Visit Saranda, Butrint NP, the Blue Eye & Field of Bunkers – stay in Gjirokaster at Jani Studio Apartments
• Day 7: Full day in Gjirokaster – stay at Jani Studio Apartments
• Day 8: Visit Tepelena & Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct – continue to Permet – walk to Leus – stay in Permet at Villa Permet or in Leus at Chri Chri Guest House
• Day 9: Visit the Benja Thermal Springs – return to Permet – stay at Villa Permet
• Day 10: Visit the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs – continue to Leskovik – stay in Leskovik at the Melesin Distillery
• Day 11: Visit Voskopoja – continue to Korca – stay in Korca at Villa Domenico or in Voskopoja at Stone Villas
• Day 12: Full day in Korca – stay at Villa Domenico
• Day 13: Visit Pogradec & the Royal Tombs of Selca – continue to Lin – stay in Lin at House 1960
• Day 14: Return to Tirana – stay in Tirana at Konak I Skanderbeg Square

How long should you spend in Tirana?

Most travellers will arrive in Albania via Tirana, where one of the country’s two international airports is located. While I have budgeted for 2 days in Tirana, you might need to add on some additional time in the capital depending on your arrival/departure schedule. I recommend doing this at the top of the itinerary.

We had enough time to spend four full days in Tirana before hitting the road. Most travellers will find 48 hours is ample time for the highlights.

You definitely do not need or want to drive in Tirana. The small spurts of city driving we did were by far the most stressful moments of our trip. Most of the city is walkable, while you can easily get to further-flung spots including Dajti Mountain and Bunk’Art using the excellent city bus network.

What about Theth, Valbona and Shkoder?

You will notice there is one glaring omission from this itinerary: the north.

The Accursed Mountains and particularly the hike from Valbona to Theth is definitely one of the highlights of Albania – and I do suggest you make time for it. Having previously visited the Alps and completed the hike in 2019, I felt no desire to go back and repeat it out of season.

My decision to leave Shkoder, Valbona and Theth out of this road trip itinerary is actually quite deliberate. You do not want to drive to these places. The windy roads in the north are the worst in the country, and a car can be a liability in the mountains.

Because Valbona-Theth is a thru trek, planning a driving route around it is very clunky. Some people choose to drive to Theth, hike to Valbona, then walk back to the car the following day. But this means skipping the Komani Lake Ferry, which is a huge mistake in my opinion. And do you really want to repeat the same hike on back to back days?

Provided it’s the right season for trekking (May to October most years, weather depending), add an additional 4-5 days for the north of Albania. It will look something like this (this is the exact plan Ross and I followed back in 2019):

• Day 1: Furgon from Tirana to Shkoder – afternoon in Shkoder – stay in Shkoder at Sweet Living Apartment
• Day 2: Transfer to Fierze – Komani Lake Ferry – afternoon in Valbona – stay in Valbona at Guesthouse Mehmeti
• Day 3: Hike to Theth – stay in Theth at Guesthouse Marashi
• Day 4 (optional): Extra day in Theth for hiking & the Blue Eye – stay in Theth at Guesthouse Marashi
• Day 5: Furgon from Theth to Tirana – afternoon in Tirana – stay in Tirana

Another option is to: 1. Drive to Shkoder from Tirana (stopping in Kruje on the way); 2. Organise to leave your car at your guesthouse; 3. Take the Komani Ferry to Valbona; 4. Do the one-way hike; 5. Return to Shkoder by bus from Theth to pick up your car. This would mean leaving your car idle for 3-4 days, which is a bit of a waste in my mind.

It is possible to take a car on the ferry, but spots are limited and from what I understand, it can be a stressful process. And again, you would have to repeat the hike twice.

The Tirana-Shkoder-Valbona-Theth route is very popular and easy to do with public transport by booking a combination bus-ferry ticket online via the official Berisha page .

Need more time on the coast?

If you are a regular reader of this blog, you will know that I am not a beach person. Growing up in Queensland either spoiled me or scarred me – or perhaps a bit of both.

I am entirely unfamiliar with Eastern European beaches (outside of Georgia and the Black Sea Coast), so when we landed on the Albanian Riviera, I was quite taken aback by the huge developments and amount of trash that’s around. This might be controversial, but I just don’t think the beaches in Albania are all that appealing.

If you do want more time on the beach, then I would recommend adding a night in Himara or Saranda between Qeparo and Gjirokaster. For a good range of restaurants and non-beach activities, Saranda would be my top choice. Parking is a bit tricky in Saranda, so be sure to choose a hotel or guesthouse with onsite parking.

What is the best time of year for an Albanian driving holiday?

Albania’s tourism star is rising, and I expect it will only get more popular in the years to come. Having visited in June/July the first time around and experienced the summer crowds, this time we chose the month of October for our road trip. It turned out to be a very wise decision.

It was still warm enough to swim, Tirana was quiet, and in the interior of the country, conditions were perfect for spending long periods outdoors.

Shoulder season (autumn or spring) is by far the best time of year for a road trip in Albania. We were able to get a great price on our rental car, had stress-free parking everywhere (including on the beaches and in all cities), and the roads were far less busy compared to summer.

One thing to consider is that the coast shuts down in the off-season. Restaurants and bars along the beach are mostly closed. On a few occasions we experienced zombie apocalypse scenes on the Riviera, where deserted bars still had liquor bottles and glasses set on the bar – as if everyone had picked up and left in a hurry.

Visiting smaller villages requires a bit more pre-planning and flexibility, as many businesses and services shut down after September. In October, we found all the accommodations we had earmarked were still accepting guests – but by November, many had closed off bookings for the year.

If you plan to add the north of Albania to your itinerary, note that the Komani Lake Ferry only runs in summer.

Where to rent a car in Albania

We used Local Rent to find our Ford Fiesta. I regularly use this platform to hire cars in Georgia , and in Albania, it was a similarly smooth process.

Local Rent differs from larger companies in that it sources cars from local agents. Prices are generally much lower – from 14 Euro a day in Albania. In October, our car cost 375 Euro for 2 weeks.

While all major agencies in Albania require a credit card in the driver’s name, Local Rent does not. ( No credit card was great news for us since we don’t have one.) There is no cash deposit required either – the only thing you pay in advance is a small online booking fee, which is refundable. The balance is settled in cash when you pick up the car.

Provided your licence meets the requirements, Local Rent agents in Albania do not require an International Driving Permit . All you need is your driving licence and ID (passport). Rules change, so for peace of mind I recommend contacting your agent in advance and asking them directly if they need an IDP.

Local Rent has a nice fleet of cars in Albania (including plenty of auto transmission options). Our small car did the job just fine, but it definitely struggled on some of the steeper roads.

You do not need a 4WD for this itinerary, but it’s not a bad idea to upgrade to a 4WD or SUV . In retrospect, I should have gone with a more robust car to tackle those hills and unexpected unpaved sections. I am still shocked that we didn’t get a single flat tire.

Use my affiliate link to search for a rental car in Albania via Local Rent .

5 quick tips for driving in Albania

1. Drive with dipped headlights at all times — Just like in Montenegro , it’s the law. This quirk definitely takes some getting used to. If you are driving an older car, my advice is to set a lights-off routine from day one to avoid a flat battery disaster.

2. Use Google Maps to navigate — Save for a few very minor glitches (mostly where new highways and bypasses had not yet been mapped), Google Maps never let us down. Pick up a local SIM card in Tirana before you set off. We had good coverage with Vodafone.

3. Don’t worry about tolls or vignettes — There is only one toll road in Albania on the A1 highway between Durres and Kosovo . Since you are not likely to be driving this way (my road trip itinerary doesn’t venture in this direction), you do not need to worry about tolls, vignettes or other permits provided you stay within Albania.

4. Carry cash for fuel & parking — Free street parking is plentiful in smaller cities and villages (especially in the shoulder/off season), but you will need cash to pay for parking in some cities and beach towns. The only place where we needed to pay for street parking was Korca. Most petrol stations are old-school and work on a cash basis. Regular gas goes by the name ‘Benzine’. Stay in the car; the attendant will do the pumping for you.

5. Relax! — For the most part, driving in Albania is an enjoyable experience. 99% of the roads we encountered were in good condition, and the local driving style is quite laid back.

The perfect 2-week Albania road trip: Detailed day-by-day itinerary

This route mostly follows state highways (SH) with a few backroad detours. As mentioned, all the major roads we drove were in near perfect condition with the exception of the road from Leskovic to Korce, which is unfinished in one section.

Approximate drive times for each leg are included in parenthesis.

This turned out to be a long post, so I have only included a couple of images for each stop. You can find plenty more photos along with detailed descriptions in my separate destination guides, linked throughout.

Day 0: Arrive in Tirana

If you’re flying into Albania, note that Tirana Airport is 30-45 minutes from the city centre. The easiest and most affordable way to get in from the airport is by using the shuttle bus. It departs every hour, on the hour, 24-7. Tickets cost 400 LEK per person and can be purchased using cash (LEK or Euro) on board. Find the full details here in my Tirana Airport arrivals guide .

Tirana Airport is small and self-explanatory. There are both ATMs and cash exchange booths inside the arrivals hall. I recommend withdrawing a small amount of local currency when you arrive, then finding an ATM in the centre that has lower fees (the cheapest we could find was the American Bank of Investment, which charges a fee of 500 LEK).

You will definitely need a local SIM card for navigating the roads in Albania. We chose Vodafone – even though the customer service was lacklustre, the price was satisfactory and coverage was good throughout our trip. We paid 2,000 LEK for 30 GB of data (valid for 30 days) plus an additional 200 LEK for the SIM. We bought ours in-store but prices at the airport appeared to be the same. Browse all packages here .

Depending on your flight schedule, you might have a full day or an evening in Tirana. I suggest spending it in the city centre, seeing the mandatory sights on Skanderbeg Square then crossing the river to the Blloku neighbourhood .

Do — Sightsee on Skanderbeg Square; visit Bunk’Art 2 Museum; climb the Pyramid of Tirana; dinner & drinks in Blloku.

Stay — Konak Skanderbeg Square offers self-contained apartments with a shared kitchen footsteps from the main square. The location is super convenient if you’re using the city bus to travel in from the airport and to the car rental office.

Further reading — My Tirana city guide .

Day 1: Tirana to Berat

• Distance covered today: 100 kilometres (62 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 2.5 hours
• Recommended route: Backroad through Picall > SH A3 via Kucove

Having arrived in Tirana a few days prior, we elected to collect our rental car from the agent’s office in the city centre. This meant we didn’t have to backtrack to the airport – to get to the office, we simply jumped on a city bus. It also meant that we could get straight onto the highway without driving through the city centre – a huge plus, since traffic in Tirana is always chaotic.

As is typical of my experience with Local Rent , the hand-over was very low-key. We signed our contract, paid in cash, and gave our car – a Ford Fiesta – a quick look over before setting off.

Whenever we drive in a new country, I find it helpful to pinpoint a couple of road stops within the first 30-60 minutes. The idea is to slowly warm up and have somewhere very specific to aim for.

Leaving Tirana, we headed straight to the Lapidari 2 Viewpoint (15 mins) on the southwestern side of the city. Our aim was to get a city view without putting in the legwork – it didn’t quite pan out, though. When we arrived, we discovered the road to the viewpoint was blocked to cars. We didn’t feel like walking for 45 minutes in the heat, so we abandoned ship.

It was still a good decision in hindsight because it introduced us to a backroad that we could use to travel down to our lunch spot, Fustanella Farm. The country road was completely empty and very scenic.

Fustanella Farm (30 mins) is a gorgeous farm-to-table restaurant on the outskirts of Tirana, with a rustic outdoor dining terrace set amongst olive and fig groves. It is perfectly positioned for a lunchtime stopover on the drive to Berat.

Halfway through an incredible lunch, we got a call from the rental office informing us we had left Ross’s driving licence in their photocopy machine. So unfortunately we had to turn around and head back to the city (luckily it was only a 20-minute detour on the highway). Driving back into Tirana at peak hour was a bit of a nightmare.

If it hadn’t been for that error, we could have connected directly to the highway and reached Berat in around 1.5 hours. Having wasted more than an hour backtracking to Tirana, we had to eliminate some stops from our itinerary. If you are making good time, there are several wineries located on the way into Berat, including Kantina Edoni and Kantina Luani . We only had time for a quick walk around the park in the industrial city of Kucove , which is arranged around old smokestacks.

It was late afternoon when we finally pulled into Berat . For a memorable experience, I highly recommend staying inside the castle grounds like we did. Be sure to take the turnoff after the bus station and use Rruga Muzak Topia to approach the castle from the back side (the main road is very steep and narrow). Some of the cobbled streets inside the castle peter out and turn into impassable laneways, so stick to the main streets and park wherever you see vehicles congregating. Our guesthouse provided clear instructions in advance.

After checking in, we went for an evening wander around the castle grounds before a well-deserved Birra Korca and an easy dinner at one of the restaurants inside the castle.

Stop — Lapidari 2 viewpoint; Fustanella Farm; Kucove; Kantina Edoni or Kantina Luani wineries.

Park — Free street parking is available inside Berat Castle.

Do — Evening walk through Berat Castle; sundowners at Te Zalua; dinner at TEMI.

Stay — Bed & Breakfast Josiph inside the Berat Castle walls (night 1/2).

Day 2: Full day in Berat

There is enough to see and do in Berat to comfortably fill a full day. A huge perk of staying inside the castle is being able to step out into the most beautiful part of Berat before the mid-morning crowds arrive.

We started our morning in the castle then made our way down the hill to cover Berat’s twin neighbourhoods, Gorica and Mangalem . During the hottest part of the day we found some respite by taking the audio tour at the Onufri Museum . Then we visited a few of the Byzantine churches , and enjoyed another stunning sunset from the castle grounds.

If a full day in Berat is too much, there is an option to take your car out for a drive in the afternoon. You can backtrack to a winery, or venture in the opposite direction to Osumi Canyon , 90 minutes away. There are waterfalls and caves nearby that you can also access by car. We visited Osumi on our first trip to Albania (in summer) and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Do — Early morning walk in the castle; explore the Gorica and Mangalem Quarters; afternoon at a winery or Osumi Canyon (optional).

Stay — Bed & Breakfast Josiph (night 2/2).

Further reading — My full guide to Berat .

Day 3: Berat to the Albanian Riviera

• Distance covered today: 203 kilometres (126 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 4.5 hours
• Recommended route: SH72 > SH4 > coastal road (SH8)

Despite having little interest in Albania’s beaches, we gave ourselves four full days on the Riviera with the goal of exploring the hillside villages behind the coast. If you are a beach person, three nights is ample time to get your dose of sand and sun.

Knowing we had a full day of sightseeing ahead of us, we organised to stay at the northern end of the Riviera to shave just that little bit of driving time off. The tiny village of Dhermi turned out to be one of my favourite places in Albania, with enough beach and non-beach activities to keep you occupied in any season.

Apollonia (75 mins) is a tentative UNESCO Site and the first of several Greek/Roman/Illyrian archaeological parks featured on this itinerary. In many ways I preferred it over the more-popular Butrint – you can be the judge (Butrint is coming up on day 6).

Founded in the 6th century BC, Apollonia was one of the largest settlements on the Adriatic. The thing that sets it apart (aside from its scale) is the fact that it had its own sculpture school. Thus the small museum inside the Archaeological Park is filled with incredible statues.

We set off early from Berat with the aim of arriving at Apollonia at opening time (9am during winter). The entire complex is outdoors and very spread out – it requires a fair bit of walking, so it’s best to avoid visiting during the hottest part of the day.

When preparing for this trip, I had read about an abandoned steam-power plant near the park. So we made a quick stop in the city of Fier for a hit of urbexing. A man in a reflective vest showed us around a few of the concrete carcasses and took us inside one of the abandoned cooling towers – unfortunately things went sour when he started demanding money from us for the ‘tour’. A little shaken up after his empty threats to call the police on us, we had to hotfoot it out of there.

Our next stop was a lot more vanilla. Albania’s third-largest city, Vlora (30 mins), boasts two of my favourite things: a pretty old town filled with colourful facades, and an impressive WWII memorial . We parked our car on a quiet side street and visited both on foot.

One of the main reasons I wanted to return to Albania was to spend more time around the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. It spills out into the Adriatic near Vlora, so I couldn’t miss the chance to see the Vjosa-Narta Delta Protected Area .

The Zvernec Islands sit in the delta’s Narta Lagoon and are the best access point if you don’t have a 4WD (if you do, off-road tracks are available on the northern side of the lagoon for birdwatching and secluded beaches). We drove the scenic road through a pine forest (approx. 30 minutes from Vlora) to the Zvernec Bridge and crossed the boardwalk over the marshes to the 13th-century St. Mary’s Monastery .

Departing Vlora, we headed south along the coast towards the Riviera proper and arrived at the Llogara Pass (45 mins) just as the light was dwindling. This 15-kilometre stretch of highway is one of the most scenic roads I have ever been on – up there with the Kotor Serpentine that we drove in Montenegro . As you crawl down the mountain, you descend into a sea of low clouds, with the Adriatic stretched out before you like a blue satin sheet.

The marked viewing platform on the highway was quite crowded, so we continued down the road a little further to the ’Big Bunker’ , a Hoxha-era monstrosity perched on the cliff. We climbed down into the bunker and got a front-row seat for sunset.

Dhermi is one of the first major villages you come to after descending the pass, so you can catch the sunset and still make it to your accommodation before dark. We did just that, arriving in time to enjoy a twilight beer on our little terrace at Roots Dhermi .

Stop — Apollonia Archaeological Park; Fier; Vlora & the Zvernec Islands; the Big Bunker & other viewpoints on the Llogara Pass.

Park — Free street parking is easy to come by in Dhermi out of season. If you see a congregation of cars near an intersection, chances are the surrounding streets are either too narrow or too steep to navigate. Follow suit and find a park where there are other cars gathered.

Do — Tour the Apollonia Archaeological Park; urbex at the Fier Kraftwerks; grab lunch in Vlora old town; walk the boardwalk to St Mary’s Monastery; drive the Llogara Pass; watch the sunset at the Big Bunker.

Stay — Roots Dhermi (night 1/2).

Day 4: Full day in Dhermi

Dhermi is split into two parts: the lower and newer Dhermi is a beach resort like any other, with bars and hotel developments cramped along a pebble shore. The older part of Dhermi, the upper village, is a world apart. All white-washed houses and cobbled lanes with a blue-domed Greek-style church belltower stealing the show, the restored village is one of the most beautiful places in Albania.

We gave ourselves a full day in Dhermi to wander the streets at sunrise and sunset, walk the historic Mills Trail down to the waterfront, and stroll along the restored promenade .

Dhermiu Beach is clean and relatively quiet, making it a good choice for swimming. Alternatively, the trailhead through Gjipe Canyon to the popular Gjipe Beach is just a 7-minute drive away in Iljas – we considered it, but decided to spend our afternoon eating tzatziki in Dhermi instead.

Food options in Dhermi are limited in the off-season. We ate our breakfasts (Italian coffee and byrek) at Barba Niko Bakery and had a nice pasta lunch directly opposite at Restorant Genti . For dinner, Sofia Bar in Dhermi serves grilled fish and a mean tzatziki. The terrace here is a prime spot for sunset.

Park — We left our car in the same spot for most of the day. To save time, we drove to the local bakery to pick up breakfast and drove into town for lunch. Street parking was easy to find on both occasions.

Do — Explore charming Dhermi; hike the Mills Trail to Dhermi Beach; lunch in Dhermi town; Gjipe Canyon & Beach (optional).

Stay — Roots Dhermi (night 2/2).

Further reading — Things to do in and around Dhermi .

Day 5: Dhermi to Upper Qeparo

• Distance covered today: 35 kilometres (22 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 60 minutes
• Recommended route: SH8

Qeparo is another lovely beach town 40 minutes south of Dhermi. Its proximity to both excellent beaches and several more villages and castles makes it a convenient base.

Like Dhermi, Qeparo is split into an upper and lower village – but the difference is much more stark. Upper Qeparo has not been restored and is partially abandoned, with a good portion of its stone houses in a state of disrepair. A rare example of traditional Albanian village architecture as it was, its beauty is more the decrepit kind.

We spent two nights in Upper Qeparo, but on one of those days it was raining (good timing for us because we were due for a lazy day). An afternoon plus a morning in Qeparo is ample time to explore the village.

Day 5 of our road trip was packed with stop-overs as we hopped down to Qeparo over the course of around five hours. We arrived in Vuno (15 mins) bright and early and were the only two pairs of feet padding the stone streets under vaulted arches. The incredible St. Nicholas Church – a forgotten chapel with vivid frescoes totally exposed to the elements – was a highlight.

Himara Castle (15 mins) commands exceptional sea views and was another highlight of the Riviera for me. Cafe Butterfly inside the fortress grounds serves good coffee and sweet snacks.

We had planned to drive down to the ‘Submarine Bunker’ in Porto Palermo, but after seeing it from afar from the highway, we decided against it. As much as I would have liked to swim into the concrete tunnel, it wasn’t quite what I imagined – and the road down looked dicey.

Unfortunately we arrived to find Porto Palermo Castle (25 mins) closed on a Monday (the schedule changes in mid-October), so we flew our drone over the triangular fortification instead.

The road to Upper Qeparo (25 mins) is steep but short and fully sealed. We arrived in the village with a couple of daylight hours to spare, and spent them getting lost on the backstreets and walking through the olive groves to Ali Pasha’s Tower before settling down to a delicious dinner at Te Rrapi ne Qeparo .

Stop — Vuno; Gjipe Canyon & Beach (optional); Himare Castle; the Submarine Bunker viewpoint; Porto Palermo Castle.

Park — We parked our car at this wide crossroads at the entrance to the village. It is possible to drive deeper into the village, but we didn’t want to risk it.

Do — Wander the cobbled streets of Vuno & find St. Nicholas Church; explore Himare Castle; stop for a view of the Submarine Bunker; visit Porto Palermo Castle; afternoon stroll through Upper Qeparo; dinner at Te Rrapi ne Qeparo.

Stay — Villa Porta Qeparo .

Further reading — My guide to Old Qeparo .

Day 6: Upper Qeparo to Gjirokaster

• Distance covered today: 133 kilometres (83 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3.5 hours
• Recommended route: SH8 > SH81 > SH99 > SH4

The drive inland from Qeparo to Gjirokaster was by far the longest of our trip. I was a little concerned that we would run out of time, but we managed to fit everything in.

Bookended with an indulgent breakfast in Saranda and golden hour at the Field of Bunkers, it was a perfect day from start to finish. My only regret is not spending longer in Saranda – I really liked the city’s aesthetic – but after four days, we were more than ready to leave the beach behind.

Leaving Qeparo, we made a beeline for Saranda (60 mins) and had time for a short stroll on the waterfront before an excellent breakfast at Marini . Driving through the city during morning peak hour was a little sketchy – and it was challenging to find a park on the waterfront – so I recommend arriving as early as possible.

On the edge of Saranda, Butrint National Park is Albania’s most-visited attraction and oldest UNESCO Site. I had high expectations and to be completely honest, I found Butrint a bit disappointing. The Roman Forum was much smaller than I had imagined, and the floor that was previously flooded has been covered over. The museum was excellent, but having a guard shadow us the entire time to enforce a no-photo policy really detracted from the experience.

Most disappointingly of all, the baptistry mosaics pictured on every tourist brochure were completely covered in sand (later in the trip we would encounter the same thing in Lin). I had no idea this was standard practice – surely it’s possible to build a roof or insert a horizontal screen and project an image of the mosaics onto it?

The highlight of Butrint for me was the scenery and walking trails along the water.

If we had more time, we could have explored Ksamil and its beaches and islands, or used the car ferry outside the archaeological park to access the Venetian Triangle Castle . Instead, we drove back through Saranda and headed east to start our journey towards Lake Ohrid on the opposite side of the country.

You need a solid two hours minimum to visit the Blue Eye or Syri i Kaltër (40 mins), a 164-feet-deep sinkhole enveloped in azure pools and lush forest. Though it is undeniably beautiful, I found it over-commercialised – the concrete road you have to walk to get there is an eyesore. I’m glad we went, but I don’t consider it an essential stop.

After driving another 30 minutes towards Gjirokaster, we got up close and personal with some of Albania’s concrete mushrooms at the Field of Bunkers (30 mins). There are a dozen or more bunkers of all shapes and sizes dotted around the field alongside a quarry – many have their original door mechanisms intact, and some are big enough to walk inside. Don’t follow Google Maps – take this turn-off instead.

There is an option to stop at the nearby Hadrianoplis Theatre , but the non-road requires a 4WD (or at least something more robust than a Fiesta).

We arrived in Gjirokaster (30 mins) ahead of schedule and enjoyed a local dinner near our accommodation in the new part of the city. Gjirokaster was a breeze to navigate, and we had no issue finding a spot to leave the car.

Stop — Saranda; Butrint National Park; Ksamil (optional); the Blue Eye; Field of Bunkers.

Park — Free street parking is available in Gjirokaster. We parked in the small lot attached to our apartment complex.

Do — Eat breakfast at Marini in Saranda; tour Butrint Archaeological Park; visit the Blue Eye; photograph the Field of Bunkers; dinner in Gjirokaster.

Stay — Jani Studio Apartments (night 1/2).

Day 7: Full day in Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster might be my favourite city in Albania. Like Berat, it has a historic ‘core’ that is protected under a shared 2005 UNESCO listing. Personally I prefer it over Berat – I adore the Old Bazaar area, and Gjirokaster has a greater variety of things to see and do.

We spent our day in Gjirokaster revisiting old favourites and ticking off a few things we missed the first time around. I highly recommend getting an early start and wandering the Old Bazaar just after dawn . The Obelisk is a must-visit for panoramic views.

My highlights of Gjirokaster were touring the Cold War Tunnel , eating traditional oshaf fig pudding for breakfast, and going inside the magnificent Zekate House before walking the backroads to Gjirokaster Castle .

We waited out the warmest part of the day inside the Ethnographic Museum . Alternatively, you can stretch your legs on the 2-ish kilometre hike through town to Ali Pasha’s Bridge . We did it on our first visit to Gjirokaster – it has since become quite popular. (Tomorrow there is a more spectacular Ottoman-era aqueduct to see outside of Tepelena.)

We finished the day with a feast at Restorant Pajtimi , a humble local joint outside the tourist hub. Their version of tave kosi (Albania’s national dish of lamb baked in yogurt) was the best I had.

Do — Take an early morning stroll in the Gjirokaster Bazaar; tour the Cold War Tunnel; walk to Ali Pasha’s Bridge; visit Gjirokaster Castle for sunset; dinner at Restorant Pajtimi.

Stay — Jani Studio Apartments (night 2/2).

Further reading — 10 things to do in Gjirokaster .

Day 8: Gjirokaster to Permet

• Distance covered today: 84 kilometres (52 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 2 hours
• Recommended route: SH4 > backroad towards Bence > SH75

Pressing east from Gjirokaster we entered the most exciting phrase of our Albania itinerary. From this point on, it was all new territory for us (with the exception of Korca, which we had visited twice before) – and we were finally getting a glimpse of the Vjosa River, which was a major inspiration for the trip.

Permet on the Vjosa is a small city with huge potential. It is the self-appointed nucleus of Albania’s emerging Slow Food movement, with half a dozen or more restaurants that respect the philosophy. It is also a burgeoning ecotourism destination, with hiking and mountain biking trails popping up along the river and in the nearby Fir of Hotova National Park.

We were happy with our decision to stay in Permet for two nights – I loved the town’s aesthetic, and it meant we could try more restaurants (we managed five in total!). On our first night, we treated ourselves to a suite at Villa Permet . It was fabulous. On our second night, we moved to Guest House Shtepia ime .

On the way to Permet, we stopped at Ujë Ftoht Cafe (30 mins) for coffee and plate of Albanian pancakes with local honey. The lovely location on the Drinos River would be perfect for summer – in October it was a bit blustery.

We soon arrived in Tepelena (10 mins), birthplace of the legendary Ali Pasha of Ioannina, whose footprint is all over Albania and the Balkans . Tepelena Castle was not at all what we were expecting (I won’t spoil it for you). There is some very interesting Soviet-esque architecture in the centre of town.

Tepelena has a dark past as the site of an internment camp where an estimated 3,000 people were imprisoned during the communist era, around 500 of whom never saw freedom again. There are plans to turn this camp and the notorious Spac Prison into museums ; for now the site remains partially abandoned. I got the chills just seeing it from afar and did not want to go any further.

Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct is a short 10-minute detour from Tepelena via a scenic mountain road and was one of my favourite road stops. An incredible feat of Ottoman engineering, it was still used to irrigate fields up until a few years ago. The aqueduct has been partially reconstructed and a walking path built to access it from the highway. If you have time, a new marked hiking trail starts from behind the aqueduct.

We spent a good half hour photographing the aqueduct from different angles as the sun started to peek above the mountains, casting awesome shadows. Knowing we had a hike of sorts coming up later that day, we continued down to Permet (60 mins) and checked into our first hotel.

In the afternoon we embarked on the hike from Permet to Leus , a small village above the town. It’s only a 30-minute walk, but the steep incline and rough terrain makes it feel a lot longer.

When we arrived, we were elated to find a group of Chinese tourists and their guide, who was weidling a giant key, gathered in front of Leus Orthodox Church . It meant that our slog up wasn’t in vain – we were going to be able to see the interior. Painted from the rafters to the floor, with inlay wood ceilings and a mezzanine level you can climb to get closer to the dome, this is by far the most beautiful church I have seen in my life. I am not a particularly religious person, but it was nothing short of a transcendental experience.

Still buzzing from our holy encounter, we spent another half hour wandering around Leus between haystacks and sweet cottages.

As wonderful as Villa Permet was, my biggest regret of the trip was not booking a night at Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (I tried, but they were sold out). It would have been wonderful to stay overnight in the tiny village, and I bet the owner can organise a visit to the church. Transfers are available from Permet for those who don’t have a 4WD.

Stop — Ujë Ftoht Cafe; Tepelena Castle; Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct.

Park — Free street parking is easy to find in Permet.

Do — Breakfast at Ujë Ftoht Cafe; walk through Tepelena Castle; visit Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct; hike to the Orthodox Church of Leus from Permet.

Stay — Villa Permet or Guest House Shtepia ime in Permet or Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (night 1/2).

Day 9: Full day in Permet + Benja Thermal Springs

• Distance covered today: 14 kilometres (7 miles)
• Recommended route: SH75 > Benja Road

If it’s the season, then you could spend a day mountain biking on one of the newly marked trails around Permet or rafting on the Vjosa River . There is an information booth in the centre of town where you can hire bikes and inquire about river expeditions.

We didn’t have the best weather, so we spent the morning wandering the flagstone paths through Permet Old Town , browsing the cute antique shops – and most importantly, eating local cuisine . Of the half a dozen Slow Food restaurants in Permet that we managed to fit in, Bar Restaurant Trifilia was my favourite.

The drizzle had cleared by the afternoon so we made our way to the Benja Thermal Springs , a 30-minute drive away on the fringe of Fir of Hotova National Park. Set in the spectacular Langarica Canyon beneath the arched Ottoman-era Kadiut Bridge, there are seven separate pools fed by different mineral waters. It was reasonably crowded on an October afternoon, but I still enjoyed the experience. More secluded swimming spots can be found by trekking deeper into the canyon via the riverbank – but alas, we didn’t have the right footwear.

In the evening, we scaled the staircase to the top of Guri i Qytetit , a giant rock dropped in the centre of Permet, ahead of a satisfying dinner and glass of house wine at Te Culi Slow Food .

Do — Soak in the Benja Thermal Springs & hike through the gorge; explore Permet town; eat at Permet’s Slow Food restaurants.

Stay — Villa Permet or Guest House Shtepia ime in Permet or Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (night 2/2).

Further reading — My guide to Permet (coming soon).

Day 10: Permet to Leskovik

• Distance covered today: 54 kilometres (34 miles)
• Recommended route: SH75 > SH80 > backroad to Sarandaporo > SH65

Today’s drive was the most anticipated of the trip – but of course we woke up to torrential rain. The clouds petered out as the day went on, but a heavy fog followed us all the way to Leskovik. I still managed to snap a few photos of the Vjosa River Bend (30 mins) and of an abandoned bridge wrapped in fall foliage.

This time last year, Leskovik was not at all on the tourist trail. The tiny town in one of Albania’s most prestigious wine regions is still a bit of an obscure choice – the main reason we picked it was to break up the longest drive of the trip from Permet to Korca.

As it turned out, Leskovik is a very interesting place. When Enver Hoxha was in charge, Mavrud wines and raki from Leskovik were earmarked exclusively for him and the party elite. The mineral-rich soils here yield spectacular grapes, and even though the wine industry is a fraction of the size it once was, you can still see vast vineyards wrapped around the imposing limestone massif as you wind your way into the town.

Named after that rock, Melesin Distillery is a new boutique hotel that is putting Leskovik back on the map. We splurged on a night here and didn’t regret it one bit – it was the best accommodation of our trip. The restaurant is top notch, serving local dishes alongside Leskovik wine and gin distilled in-house.

We spent the afternoon exploring Leskovik and made a brilliant ‘discovery’ when we stumbled on a set of bunkers with military diagrams painted on the walls. The town is very small and can be covered on foot in the space of an hour.

If the weather is on your side, then I suggest stopping at the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs on the way into Leskovik. (We backtracked to the springs the following morning.) A local alternative to Benja, Sarandaporo is located right on the Greek border. At one point we inadvertently wandered across the state line. Whoops.

Crafted from stone blocks, the baths sit high above the river and are fed with bubbling sulfuric waters. The location is nothing short of spectacular. We were concerned about the road, but it turns out a freshly sealed road has been installed – part of the way, at least. We had to drive for around 10 minutes over gravel then walk another 30 minutes along the riverbed to find the springs. It was certainly an adventure.

Stop — Vjosa River Bend Viewpoint; abandoned bridge; Sarandaporo Thermal Springs.

Park — Free parking is available in front of Melesin Distillery.

Do — Stop for photos of the Vjosa river bend & abandoned bridge; swim in the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs; gin tasting & dinner at Melesin Distillery.

Stay — Melesin Distillery .

Further reading — My guide to Leskovik .

Day 11: Leskovik to Korca/Voskopoja

• Distance covered today: 85 kilometres (53 miles) (or 105 kilometres to Voskopoja)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3.5 hours (or 4 hours to Voskopoja)
• Recommended route: SH75

Day 11 was the longest drive of the trip, mostly because of the road conditions. Construction on this highway has been ongoing since summer. Once complete, it will shorten the drive time considerably.

As it currently stands, the worst section of road is around Barmash. Mostly compacted gravel, it’s far from the worst road I’ve seen,  but it is bumpy and slow going. After Erseke, it is all smooth sailing over a freshly tarred highway.

Unsure of just how long the drive to Korca would take, we were very selective with our stops and only made quick photo breaks in Barmash and Erseke for the war memorials. We planned to visit the Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum , but like most museums in Albania, it was closed on a Monday.

Unperturbed and grateful to be nearing our destination well before sunset, we continued to Voskopoja, a small village 30 minutes outside of Korca.

Voskopoja is famed for its high concentration of Orthodox churches that date back to the 18th century when it was one of the biggest cities in the Balkans and a centre of Aromanian culture . We only managed to see two of the half a dozen churches we had bookmarked – the rest were closed for restoration and covered in scaffolding (please do take this into consideration when planning a trip; works are not expected to be completed before summer 2024). Of course there was no information anywhere online about the closures.

We did manage to get inside the 1751 Profet Ilia Monastery , which almost redeemed Voskopoja with its sunset magical-ness.

Overall though, Voskopoja was a let down – not only because of the churches being closed, but also because the whole place had a slightly off-putting, almost fake feel to it. After visiting so many lovely villages earlier in the trip, Voskopoja just didn’t do it for me.

I recommend staying in Korca for two nights and potentially adding a half-day trip to the village if you’re desperate to see the churches.

Stop — Various WWII memorials; Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum.

Park — In Voskopoja, park at your guesthouse or on the street. In Korca, you must pay to park in the city centre (find a spot, and an attendant will come and find you to exchange cash for a paper ticket that you should display on your windshield).

Do — Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum (optional); Voskopoja (if staying in Korca).

Stay — Villa Domenico (Korca) or Stone Villas (Voskopoja).

Day 12: Full day in Korca

Less than 40 kilometres from the border with Greece, Korca is completely unique among Albania’s cities. Long a stronghold of education and culture, it has its own unique character and – not surprisingly – a strong Greek vibe.

This was our third visit to Korca. We first came here back in 2019 on our way overland to Thessaloniki , and on this trip, we entered Albania via Korca in a taxi from Kastoria .

Between the restored Old Bazaar and the many excellent museums, Korca has enough points of interest for one day. Don’t miss the National Museum of Medieval Art or the Birra Korca Brewery , a delightful beer garden serving Albania’s oldest brew.

This time around we joined the Free Walking Tour of Korca . It is quite casual and fun, and for an introduction and orientation, it’s a good way to spend a couple of hours. Other highlights were eating lakror, a giant pie that is Korca’s specialty dish, at Shija e Saçit , hiking to the Martyrs Cemetery , Varrezat e Dëshmorëve, at sunset, and driving up to the Kryqi Moravë viewpoint just after sunrise.

Do — Climb the Panoramic Tower; visit the National Museum of Medieval Art; walk in the old town & Old Bazaar; drive to the War Memorial & church viewpoint; beers at the Birra Korca brewery.

Stay — Villa Domenico .

Further reading — My Korca city guide .

Day 13: Korca to Lin (Lake Ohrid)

• Distance covered today: 107 kilometres (66 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3 hours
• Recommended route: SH3 via Sovjan

Having visited the North Macedonian side of Lake Ohrid (and the eponymous Ohrid) back in 2019, I was quite keen to see how the ‘other side’ of the lake compared. We ended up spending two nights in the area, staying in Pogradec (the biggest Albanian city on the lake) and in the cute village of Lin further north.

My conclusion: Albanian Ohrid is sparser and feels more threadbare. While you could happily spend a week in Ohrid city (like we did), Pogradec by comparison is small and a bit dated. You only need to spend one night on the lake – and it should definitely be in Lin.

Pogradec is a quick 50-minute drive from Korca via Sovjan. If you are so inclined, stop off to grab a coffee or breakfast, walk the waterfront promenade, and peek at the old houses in Toplec Quarter ( around this point ).

Another 20 minutes and you will reach Lin , which is everything Pogradec is not (sorry, Pogradec!). Now believed to be the oldest continuously inhabited village in Europe, it boasts Paleo Christian mosaics and Albania’s most photogenic bunker . Like Dhermi, Lin is another small village of cobbled streets and vernacular architecture that was made for wandering.

An hour or so away from Lin, the Royal Tombs of Selca date back to the days of the Illyrian Kingdom and were carved from the rocky terrain between the 4th and 1st centuries BC. Though not at all compulsory, the tombs are an adventure – and the rural location is quite spectacular. On the way, we stopped for the Ottoman-era Golikut Bridge , one of the loveliest stone bridges in Albania.

It is faster and easier to access the tombs from Lin (rather than Pogradec). Presently there are roadworks in this area, which makes it difficult to locate the correct road. Follow the sealed bitumen road as far as you can, past the bridge, turn left onto the new road, then continue along the concrete path.

Despite it being a tentative UNESCO Site, there is next to no signage for the tombs. We parked our car near the lone sign board then took a guess that the tombs would be located on top of the hill – we were right, thankfully. To find them, follow the concrete stairs to the top. The first few tombs are nice, but the most impressive ones are located around the corner.

Back in Lin, we checked into our delightful room at House 1960 , put in our dinner order, and explored the village on foot. The caretaker unveiled a corner of the Lin Mosaic for us (like in Butrint, it is covered in sand for posterity), then we hiked out onto the peninsula to see the bunker caught between the glassy lake and a stormy sky.

Stop — Pogradec; Golikut Bridge; the Royal Tombs of Selca.

Park — Lin village is tiny and parking is very difficult. House 1960 has a designated lot, but it only fits a couple of cars. Be sure to mention that you are driving so that hosts Merita and Emri can save you a spot.

Do — Stroll the waterfront in Pogradec & see the old town; stop at the Golikut Bridge; explore the Royal Tombs of Selca; peek at the Lin Mosaic; hike the peninsular for sunset from the Lin Bunker; fish dinner at House 1960.

Stay — House 1960 .

Further reading — My full guide to visiting Lin .

Day 14: Return to Tirana

• Distance covered today: 106 kilometres (66 miles)
• Recommended route: SH3 via Elbasan

Waking up in Lin on the final morning of our road trip, we took one last walk down to the lakefront and greeted a trio of fishermen just as they were bringing in their haul. In under three hours we would be back in busy Tirana – so we savoured every last vignette of village life.

From Ohrid Lake, it is a straight shot along the highway back to Tirana via Elbasan. We had arranged to return our car in the late afternoon so we paced ourselves with a couple of stops here and there. The city of Elbasan (90 mins) looked interesting and I would have liked to have a proper walk around – maybe next time.

The road between Tirana and Lin follows the communist-era railroad that once connected all of Albania, but has long since been abandoned. Inspired by this guide , we stopped at the impressive Bushtrica Bridge and did a bit of urbexing at the abandoned train station in Xhyre . We also stopped in Perrenjas to photograph the industrial complex that has been decorated with ladybug murals.

Google Maps routed us back into Tirana via the same highway we had left on. We knew exactly where to go to get back to the rental office. Returning the car took less than five minutes, then we jumped a bus back to the city centre. We had enough time for an afternoon walk in the city and dinner in Blloku before flying out the following afternoon back to Kutaisi .

Stop — Lin viewpoint; Perrenjas street art; Xhyre abandoned railway station & bridge; Elbasan (optional).

Do — Early morning walk in Lin to greet the fishermen; stop at the Lin viewpoint; explore the abandoned train station and bridges around Xhyre; lunch in Elbasan (optional); return your car; afternoon walk in Tirana; dinner in Blloku.

Stay — Konak Skanderbeg Square is a self-contained apartment with a shared kitchen. We chose it because of its proximity to the square – it was easy to get to by bus from the rental car office, and easy to get away using the airport bus that also departs from the square ( more information about getting back to Tirana Airport in this guide ).

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Where to stay in Tirana

Planning a trip to North Macedonia and Albania this summer, and your guides are (as always) amazing and such a plethora of ideas! Thank you from a Swedish reader

Thanks so much, Ulrika! Two of my favourite countries in the region. I hope you have a wonderful trip!

What an informative article. I have not visited Albania, but it is high on my list. This will make planning and decisions much easier.

Thank you for all your helpful travel information.

Sylvia Short USA

Thanks Sylvia, I hope you get a chance to visit Albania soon!

Thank you so much for all of those information !!! it will really help me. I read that you need to have a 4×4 to drive around in permet, because of the road, but you look fine in the fiesta? was there a disclosure in the car location that you have to stay in paved road? thank you sooo much!!!

Hi Magali – that was probably true this time last year, but in summer they redid all the roads. Apart from the short section that I mention, it is completely new and sealed. The unsealed part is still a road, it’s just a bit rough. We had to take it slow, but we had no issues at all with our small car.

What a wonderful description of your trip. It’s so detailed and beats many well-known guidebooks. Having visited Albania it brought back memories. I look forward to reading about other journeys. Bravo and thank you so much.

Thanks so much Tony! It was an incredible trip!

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Albania Itinerary: Complete 2-Week Road Trip

Welcome to the most unexpected destination in Europe : beautiful Albania! A diverse country that will take your breath away, from the beaches (similar to those in neighboring Greece ) to the mountains, which wouldn’t look out of place on a Swiss postcard. Combine this with the delicious food, Ottoman towns, and incredible hospitality of the locals, and Albania is set to top every traveler’s bucket list. Use this complete 2-week Albania itinerary to explore this remarkable destination.

The Ultimate Albania 2-Week Itinerary

Traveling in Albania is magical, as you discover a country home to the last wild river of Europe, incredible mountains, and white sandy beaches.

Also read: Best Things to do in Albania .

Despite this well-preserved nature, the country is developing fast, and the infrastructure continues to go from strength to strength. Because of this, the roads are good, so we recommend completing your Albania itinerary by car.

If you don’t have a car, it is possible to travel by bus, but it does take more time. Plus, you’ll have a lot more flexibility if you choose to do a 2-week Albanian road trip. 

Did you know? Surprisingly, 60% of the country is Muslim, but all religions live together in harmony. You’ll notice beautiful mosques and the sound of the call to prayer echoing out across the ancient towns and vistas.

On day 1, fly into the colorful capital city of Albania: Tirana . We recommend finding a morning or early afternoon flight, so you have time to collect your hire car and drive directly to Berat (2 hours). Don’t worry about missing out on the beautiful sights of Tirana , as you’ll come back to the city on your final day. 

How to get from Tirana to Berat

Rent a car from the airport and drive directly to Berat . The drive takes approximately 2 hours, and the roads are in good condition (with most of the journey on the highway). 

We recommend to rent a car in Albania through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here .

Buses in Albania are reliable and very cheap. The only downside is that your journey might take a little longer than by car.

From the capital city, buses to Berat are very frequent (run roughly every 30 mins) and cost 500 LEK (4.30 USD). The bus ride takes 2 hours and 15 minutes. 

Where to Stay in Berat

When you reach Berat, book yourself into a traditional guesthouse. We recommend staying in the neighborhood of Gorica as it’s more affordable and only just across the bridge from the town center.  See all your hotel options here .

Hotels in Berat 😴

Day 2: Berat  

On day 2, explore the extraordinary city of Berat , a place home to incredible Ottoman architecture. It’s known as the city of a thousand windows, and it’s easy to see why; beautiful window panes face downhill onto the River Osum.

Read: Things to do in Berat, Albania .

Unusually, two neighborhoods face each other across the water with bridges connecting them, so it’s fun to move between the areas, wandering the charming cobbled streets.

Make sure to also walk up to the impressive Byzantine Church and the castle ruins, which are left at the top of the hill—it’s the perfect place to go for views of the valley below, especially at sunset. 

Day 3: Berat to Gjirokaster

On Day 3, wake up and enjoy a typical Albanian breakfast of bread, butter, yogurt, fruit, and olives, before your 3-hour drive to Gjirokaster . This is a very scenic drive, so take it slow and make regular stops to get some photos. 

How to get from Berat to Gjirokaster

First, you need to drive to the city of Fier before continuing your route along the beautiful Drino River. Google Maps might suggest a shorter way via Komar, but this is a route only accessible for 4×4 cars. In total, the drive will take around 3 hours (longer if you’re taking regular breaks).

There is a direct bus to Gjirokaster from Berat , which takes approximately 3 hours. However, the bus makes many stops along the way, so be aware it could take a little longer. There are 3 buses daily, 2 of which leave at 2 PM (the last bus of the day).

Where to Stay in Gjirokaster

Stay centrally in Gjirokaster, within the old town which sits high on the hill with beautiful views. It’s definitely worth it, even with the walk! See all your hotel options in Gjirokaster .

Hotels in Gjirokaster 😴

Day 4: Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster is one of the most memorable towns on your Albania 2-week itinerary. This beautiful town is full of houses with white facades, complete with wooden balconies and stone roofs in the typical Ottoman style. There is also a magnificent fortress that sits high on the hill.

Because of its history, everything is carefully preserved, and it’s been awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. If you want to learn more about the town’s interesting past, there is a museum within the fortress. 

Read all about the things to do in Gjirokaster .

Spend your day in Gjirokaster wandering among the characteristic houses and browsing the cute shops selling carpets and ceramics. You can even visit inside the homes to see the interior of what a traditional Ottoman house would look like. The most beautiful thing of all, though, is the scenery; the town is surrounded by mountain ranges and towering ridges.

Day 5: Gjirokaster to Ksamil (via Syri i Kaltër/Blue Eye) 

On day 5 of your Albanian road trip, begin your journey to Ksamil , a beautiful coastal town on the ‘Albanian Riviera’. On your way, break up your trip with a stop at the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a crystal clear emerald pool that is perfect for swimming.

It takes just 30 minutes to drive here from Gjirokaster and then a 15-minute walk from the parking spot. When you arrive, you’ll be met by the most gorgeous sight: beautiful blue and green colored water that comes fresh from a natural spring.

The water is numbingly cold but so refreshing, especially in the summer! It does say that you’re not allowed to swim, but plenty of people do so (there was a guard there patrolling, and he only asked people not to jump from the platform). We recommend arriving as early as possible in the morning to avoid the summer crowds. 

Entrance fee: 50 LEK (0.50 USD)

After your swim, dry off and head back to the car for the rest of your trip. Follow the road to Saranda, and continue on to Ksamil from there. From the Blue Eye, the journey takes approximately 1 hour.

Tip: Ksamil and Saranda are neighboring coastal towns and both popular choices on an Albania itinerary. However, Sarande is much more of a party town than Ksamil, so it depends on your preference.

How to get from Gjirokaster to Ksamil

The drive from Gjirokaster to Ksamil takes around 1 hour and 20 minutes. However, that doesn’t include time for your stop at the Blue Eye. Allow for 2 hours at the Blue Eye to relax, have a swim, and enjoy walking through nature. 

There are no direct buses running from Gjirokaster to Ksamil. Instead, you will need to take a bus to Saranda and, from there, take a taxi to Ksamil. Buses leave Gjirokaster every 20-30 minutes and take about 1 hour.

If you’re traveling by bus, you won’t be able to make a stop off at Syri I Kaltër (Blue Eye). However, tours run regularly from Gjirokaster and Saranda and include return transport.

Where to stay in Ksamil

Once you arrive in Ksamil, choose to stay close to the beaches, ideally within 10 to 15 minutes walk. See all your hotel options here .

Hotels in Ksamil 😴

Day 6: Ksamil

The beach paradise of Ksamil is a must-see on your Albania itinerary. Sitting on the coast of the Albanian Riviera, it’s home to incredible beaches, which aren’t dissimilar to the south of France (hence the name!). Turquoise ocean backs onto soft yellow sand that’s covered in a sea of multi-colored beach umbrellas—bliss!

Read about the things to do in Ksamil, Albania .

There are also 4 small islands on the coast which are perfect for exploring. Hire a kayak or a SUP and paddle out to explore the rocky outcrops, jumping off into the water to cool off at any opportunity. You can also do boat tours to some of the bigger islands and even take a ferry to Corfu, Greece !

By day, choose a private or public beach, and hire day beds from chic beach clubs. By night, do as the locals do and enjoy promenading along the seafront, stopping for a bite to eat in the warm evening air. 

Day 7: Butrint National Park

Day 7 is all about history as you embark on the next part of your Albanian road trip! Stay in Ksamil for another night, but venture away for a half-day trip to Butrint National Park (one of the most important historical sites in the whole country). Discover this remote national park, full of roman ruins and now a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site .

As you wander between the unique stone monuments, you’ll be shaded by many beautiful trees, and you’ll never be far from the clear turquoise water that sits nearby. Because of this, it’s doable to visit in the middle of the day (although we advise visiting in the morning for fewer crowds).

Read everything about Butrint National Park

Spend 1.5 to 3 hours in the park, finishing your walk at the beautiful castle where there is a great view.

Entry Fee: 700 LEK (6.10 USD)

How to get from Ksamil to Butrint National Park

Butrint National Park is only a maximum 15 minutes drive from Ksamil, so it’s straightforward to reach by car.

There are 3 small squares by the main road where you can catch a bus to Butrint National Park. You must request the bus as otherwise, it’ll just drive on. Because of this, it’s safer to get a taxi to give you more flexibility.

Organized Tour:

Organized tours to Butrint Park run from larger cities like Saranda and normally include other locations like the Blue Eye and Ksamil.

Day 8: Ksamil to Himarë

Wake up on day 8 of your Albania 2-week itinerary and head for the beautiful beach town of Himarë , another gem on the Albanian Riviera. The journey in total takes around 2 hours.

Read everything about Himare, Albania.

Castle Palermo (Optional Stop)

If you have time, make a stop at the incredible Castle Palermo. This mammoth, triangular-shaped fortress sits on top of a cliff on a peninsula overlooking the most beautiful blue ocean.

Also read: Historic Krujë Castle.

Park for free close by and wander towards the castle, looking out over the dazzling sea and beautiful olive groves. Once you’re in the castle, you can learn more about its history (it was built for an Ottoman governor as his home and defense fortress). You can even walk upstairs to the rooftop for fantastic views!

If you have time, there is also a beach underneath the castle where you can relax and swim for a few hours.

Entry Fee: ​​300 Lek (2.5 EUR or 3 USD)

How to get from Ksamil to Himarë

By car is the best way to get to Himarë , particularly if you want the flexibility to make a stop at Palermo Castle. The journey in total between Ksamil and Himarë is just under 2 hours. The journey time is more or less the same if you make a stop at Castle Palermo (it’s 1.5 hours to the castle and 25 minutes from there to Himarë). 

There are no buses from Ksamil to Himarë. You must travel by taxi or book a private transfer .

Where to Stay in Himarë

Once you’re in Himarë, you have two bays to choose from. One has many hotels and restaurants, and the other is quieter as it’s still in development. Wherever you choose, you’ll find both smaller guesthouses and beautiful luxury hotels.

Hotels in Himare 😴

Ideally, stay for 1 or 2 nights, choosing accommodation close to the beach. See all your hotel options in Himarë .

Tip: Camping is also possible in Albania and is the perfect way to explore the country’s dramatic landscapes and diverse nature.

Day 9: Himarë  

Himarë is a beautiful beach destination north of Ksamil and Butrint National Park . The advantage of visiting this coastal town is that it’s far less crowded than Saranda and Ksamil, and it’s considerably cheaper than the nearby town of Dhermi.

It is home to wide sweeping bays with the most perfectly calm, clear ocean, and it’s not as busy, so you won’t find the beaches packed with parasols and beds. 

Read: Best Things to do in Himare .

Spend the Afternoon in Dhermi

However, although we recommend basing yourself in Himarë on your Albania 2-week itinerary, you should definitely try and make a visit to the nearby town of Dhermi. Not only is it close to some of the most fantastic beaches, but it’s an authentic hillside village in Albania.

Walk through its cobblestone streets with pretty houses and churches, stopping to take photos of the beautiful coastal views. It’s a great place to visit in the afternoon or evening for sunset. 

Day 10: Himarë to Kruje

One of the most beautiful drives on your Albanian road trip is the one from Himarë to Kruje . Although it’s a long drive (4-5 hours), it moves across stunning landscapes, especially the first 1.5 hours on the road to Vlore—which is absolutely breathtaking.

As you go, you’ll pass through the luscious Llogara National Park, riding along the high coastal road, which provides you with epic views of the cliffs, beaches, and Adriatic sea. Vlore itself is very green and luscious and, surprisingly, is famous for being home to the spotted deer. 

Kruje Castle and Old Town

When you finally arrive in Krujë , you’ll be blown away by this beautiful medieval town—home to one of the most colorful bazaars we’ve ever seen. Gorgeous ruby red textiles hang from the market stalls, and it’s lovely to walk around and buy souvenirs, antiques, and handmade carpets. The afternoon is the perfect amount of time to explore the old town and bazaar.

Read all about Krujë Castle and the Historic village .

Alternative Stop: Shkod er

Alternatively, you can spend the night at Shkoder, which is closer to Theth (the next stop on your Albania itinerary). This is a bigger city with beautiful old town pedestrian streets and loads of great food and drink options. Especially at the weekends, this city is vibrant and lively and an enjoyable place to hang out.

We recommend spending time in the Gjuhadol neighborhood, where you’ll find the nicest streets.  Find a hotel in Shkoder .

Tip: if you’re traveling in Albania by public transport, you’ll need to spend the night in Shkoder to take an arranged transfer to Theth the following day. If you have a car, we recommend skipping Shkoder and arriving at Theth directly from Kruje .

Where to Stay in Kruje

Stay as close as you can to the old town and bazaar, particularly as you’re only in Kruje for the afternoon/evening.  Here are all your hotel options in Kruje .

Hotels in Kruje 😴

How to get from Himarë to Kruje

Traveling by car from Himarë to Kruje is the easiest option and takes between 4-5 hours. 

There are no direct buses from Himarë to Kruje. Instead, you’ll need to take a bus to Vorë or back to Tirana and take the bus from these destinations. In total (including changing bus), both these journeys will take you approximately 5-6 hours.

Please note: If you want to travel on to Theth the next day, you’ll need to stay the night in Shkoder because that’s the only town where transfers leave for Theth (Albania’s answer to the Alps).

Day 11: Kruje to Theth

If you haven’t already explored Kruje’s Bazaar (one of the oldest markets in Albania), then spend the morning here taking in all the sights and senses of this beautiful area. (Just note that most shops opens at 10 AM) There is also a castle in Kruje to explore if you have time. 

After breakfast and a morning exploring Kruje, start on one of the most beautiful journeys of your Albanian road trip: the drive to Theth . Along the way, you’ll share the winding roads with goats, cows, and pigs and stop off at beautiful viewpoints with panoramic views of the mountains; you’re now arriving in Albania’s version of the Swiss Alps! 

Theth Village

Spend your afternoon in beautiful Theth village , a cute town which essentially consists of one long street bordering the river. It’s full of sweet houses, guesthouses, and great campsites (with good facilities). 

Read everything about the mountain village Theth in Albania .

People come to Theth to camp and hike, so it’s popular in summer with tourists. However, you’ll notice that authentic local life continues, with the farmers still herding their sheep and horses along the roads.

Witnessing this with the majestic mountain peaks in the background is truly like something from a movie. You’ll spend a few days here, enjoying the town, and hiking famous trails like the Peje Mountain Pass or the Valbona Peak. 

Tip: One of the most beautiful parts of Theth is the idyllic church you can find on the outskirts of town, surrounded by mountain peaks and meadows full of flowers. It’s an absolute must-visit and one of the best places to visit in Albania!

• Where to Stay in Theth

Look for a hotel on the main street of Theth (not on the hill), so you can be closer to the center of the village for your afternoon stroll.  See all your hotel options .

Hotels in Theth 😴

How to get from Kruje to Theth

The journey from Kruje to Theth takes around 3.5 hours. Along the way, you can stop at Shkoder if you’d like a break; there are lots of beautiful things to see here, including Lake Shkoder, which forms a natural border between Albania and Montenegro.

As Theth is very remote, there are no buses from Kruje to Theth. You’ll need to get to Shkoder and arrange a transfer or organized tour from there to Theth. 

Day 12: Hike to Valbona Peak, Theth

Day 12 is your chance to explore the unbelievable nature that Albania has to offer. Pack a backpack and prepare to do the most beautiful hike from Theth to Valbona peak and back.

Along the way, you’ll pass through forests, gorgeous grasslands that look across onto the mountain peaks, bubbling brooks and streams, and meadows full of flowers and boulders. You could really feel as if you were in the Alps, with dramatic scenery all around and only birds, crickets, and butterflies to keep you company along the way. 

How long does the hike take? 

Start at 8 AM, and you should return to Theth around 3-4 PM. It takes around 7 hours to hike the trail (15 km in total), and it’s doable but definitely a challenge! Please be aware that on some parts of the trail, there are (very) steep gravel paths, so make sure you’re wearing proper hiking shoes. 

Tip: Traveling to Theth by public transport? You can catch a ferry or shared van back to Shkoder after your hike (the journey is approx 2 hours).

Day 13: Theth to Tirana

On your penultimate day in Albania, it’s time to head back to the buzzing capital: Tirana (a must-see on your 2-week Albania itinerary). Have breakfast and make an early start to drive back to Tirana so you can spend the afternoon in the city. 

Spend the Afternoon in Tirana

Once you’ve checked into your hotel, make the most of the city’s cultural hotspots, enjoying all the museums, art galleries, and interesting restaurants. You’ll find the National Museum of History here, which is a plot of former underground bunkers now turned into an exhibit on Albania’s communist history.

Entry Fee: 400 LEK (3.50 USD)

Aside from seeing the city’s museums, it’s lovely to just walk around for a few hours, witnessing the interesting architecture of Tirana —a reflection of its historical and cultural heritage.

You’ll find a mix of older and newer buildings, some in a more Mediterranean European style and some in an urban fascist style. Best of all, it’s earned a reputation for its colorful buildings due to the major being an artist and painting the buildings. These colored buildings are spread across the city, but two of the must-sees are:

• Ministry of Tourism and Environment
• Ministry of Agriculture

How to get from Theth to Tirana

The journey from Theth to Tirana takes 3.5 hours. You don’t need a 4×4 as the road to Theth is now paved and safe to drive on.

It’s possible to take a bus from Theth to Tirana. You’ll need to first take a shared shuttle bus to Shkoder (or taxi). From there, there are buses running every 30 minutes to Tirana. The journey takes 2 hours and costs 400 LEK (3.60 USD), so it’s very cheap.

Where to Stay in Tirana

The Blloku neighborhood is the most colorful and trendy of all and a great place to stay in Tirana. Alternatively, anywhere close to the city center is good. See all your hotel options in Tirana .

Hotels in Tirana 😴

Day 14: Drive to Tirana Airport (Departure)

Day 14 is the final day of your beautiful 2-week Albania itinerary, and time to pack your bags and leave with some incredible memories of this underrated country in Europe!

If you have a hire car, drive the 30 minutes to the airport and drop your rental car there before you fly. Alternatively, take the airport shuttle bus, which leaves the city center regularly (from Skanderbeg Square). A ticket costs 300 LEKE (2.70 USD) and can be purchased on the bus.

How to Visit Albania in 2 Weeks

Albania is one of the most unexpected treasures, home to everything from epic mountains and natural spring pools to beaches that would rival some of the best in Europe. This 2-week Albania itinerary provides you with various activities, hotel options, and transportation. 

Getting to Albania

The main airport in Albania is Tirana, and international flights arrive here from all around the world. Most of the public transport leaves from the capital city too, and you can collect your car hire there.

Getting Around on Your Albania 2-Week Itinerary

The easiest way to get around Albania is definitely by car. In the past, it had a reputation for bad roads. However, these days, most roads are safe and paved (especially when sticking to the highways). Even in the mountainous region of Theth, the roads are newly paved, so you can use a normal rental car. The only thing to be wary of on the roads is other drivers (Albanian drivers have a bit of a bad reputation, although we didn’t experience this ourselves). Use Waze or Google Maps as your navigation app.

Getting around by bus in Albania is a little trickier, as many destinations don’t have direct bus connections. Because of this, you may have to make multiple changes, and the journeys can be long. The upside, though, is that tickets are very cheap! 

Organized Tour

Alternatively, base yourself in bigger cities like Tirana and Saranda and use those as jumping-off points to explore other areas by organized tour.

Our Favorite Accommodations in Albania

There are many fantastic accommodations in Albania, from charming guesthouses and B&Bs to more luxury beachside hotels. There is even the option to camp! Below are our favorite places to stay for each destination on this 2-week Albania itinerary:

• Berat: Hotel Mangalemi , Tradita e Beratit Hotel
• Gjirokaster: SS Kekezi , Argjiro Traditional , Hotel Argjiro
• Ksamil: Ionian Hotel , Summer Point Hotel , Hotel Meta
• Himarë: Scala Bungalows , Filoxenia Holiday , Guest House Solive
• Kruje: Mervin Hotel , Hotel Panorama
• Shkoder: Çoçja Boutique Hotel , Atelier Boutique Hotel
• Theth: Guesthouse Marashi , Bujtina Miquesia Hotel , Gurra Family Guesthouse
• Tirana: Hotel Theatro , Hotel Boutique Vila , Crown Boutique Hotel

Food in Albania

Albania has a mix of history, cultures, and religions, all coming together in one big melting pot. This makes for some delicious cuisine, whether it’s traditional Albanian dishes, Italian, or Middle Eastern.

You can enjoy all sorts of delicacies, from stuffed peppers and eggplants to olives and baked local cheeses. If you’re brave enough, you can also try Raki, the traditional alcoholic beverage in Albania.

Fun Fact: In Albania, the head gesture for ‘yes’ and ‘no’ is the opposite of most countries (something you might need to know when you’re asked to try Raki!).

Albania Budget

Albania is super cheap; you can get a huge meal for 2 people (with salad and 2 main courses) for just 10 EUR (10.15 USD). You can also stay in incredible hotels for 50 EUR (51 USD) per night, although you can find good hotels for as little as 15 EUR (15.20 USD).

Costs of Traveling in Albania

Travel on a budget in Albania, from $80 − $130 USD weekly per person, mid-range $330 − $920 USD, and high-end from $920 − $1180 USD. However, costs depend on factors like accommodation, transportation, and activities. We did not include flights. Check flight prices here

• Hotels: $35 − $70 USD Check available hotels
• Hostels: $5 − $15 USD Check available hostels
• Car Rental: $50 − $75 USD Book a rental car
• Food: $3 − $8 USD
• Activities: $0 − $7 USD See tickets & tours
• Sim: $1 − $3 USD Get an eSIM or SIM here
• Travel Insurance: $2 − $6 USD Get Travel Insurance

Best Time to Visit Albania

Albania has very hot summers and mild winters (although you’ll find lots of snow in the mountainous regions). In the summer, locals and tourists head for the beach, and it can get very busy. Because of this, we recommend visiting in the shoulder seasons: May/June or September. This is the perfect time to enjoy warm weather, sunny days, and the beaches of the Albanian Riviera without the crowds. It also has slightly cooler temperatures, which are perfect for hiking in the mountains.  

Is Albania Safe?

There is some dispute about whether Albania is safe, and its communist history has slightly tarnished its reputation. However, in our personal experience, it’s very safe. The locals are warm, friendly people who are always eager to help, and the towns feel very safe and inviting. We walked around with our phones and cameras the entire time, zero issues! Albania truly has our hearts.

Travel Insurance Don't forget a travel insurance for your Albania trip! Heymondo covers medical emergencies, theft, delays, cancellations, lost luggage, and more, with 24/7 worldwide assistance and medical chat. As a Salt in our Hair reader, we've got you 5% off! Check Heymondo here

We’ve met a lot of solo (female) travelers who had the best time. Yes, they got some heads turning but never experienced anything negative. Obviously, take care of yourself and stay inside the main tourist areas. Here are our tips on how to travel safely .

What to wear in Albania?

Even though over 60% of Albania is Muslim, there are no specific guidelines on what to wear; You’ll see a huge mix of different clothing styles, and especially the younger Albanians dress in a very western style. When entering a religious site, always wear a cover-up. However, at most places they really allow everyone. One Albanian said to us that due to the country’s history, Albanians are now one big family, all living together no matter what their religion is. That’s how the world should be if you’d ask us!

By purchasing through our links, you support us at no additional cost. Thank you for your support. ♥️

• Find Hotels via Booking.com
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• Find Flights to Albania via Skyscanner
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• Book Tours & Attractions via GetYourGuide
• Book a Bus/Train/Transfer via 12Go

8 Best Things to do in Gjirokaster, Albania

Butrint national park: the complete visitors guide, ksamil, albania: things to do in 2024.

Looking for more travel information? Plan a chat with us for personalised travel advice or get an answer from the Salt in our Hair Travel Community on Facebook.

If you had two extra days to spend, where would you choose to stay a bit longer? I’m travelling with a kid so want to take some extra days of rest in between.

Probably Theth or Gjirokaster! 🤗

  Notify me when new comments are added.

The Ginger Wanderlust

Albania Road Trip Itinerary Ultimate Guide (1-2 weeks)

I had never really thought about visiting Albania until I was planning a summer road trip in Europe . I wanted to visit a country that was budget friendly and off the usual tourist radar. After a bit of research I decided to discover Albania & Montenegro in the Balkans. I was curious about Albania’s history and wanted to see for my self if Albania was really ‘unsafe’ as some people claimed. I spent 12 days exploring Albania and was blown away by the cities, coastline and mountains. In this post I will share my Albania Road Trip Itinerary Guide which includes all the top places to visit.

1 – 2 week Albania Road Trip Itinerary – what to see

If you are hoping to visit the top sites in Albania you will need at least 7 days. My Albania road trip itinerary is for 9 days, but you could do it in 7 days by spending less time in each place. Read on to find out the top things to do in Albania.

Day 1 – Tirana

Start your Albania road trip in Tirana, the capital of Albania. It’s the perfect place to learn more about the history of Albania before exploring the rest of the country.

Top things to do in Tirana: – Walk around the city and admire the colourful Ottoman-, Fascist- and Soviet-era architecture. – Join a tour of Tirana to learn more about the history. – Visit the National History Museum . It’s 400 LEK (€3.26) and covers prehistoric times through to Communist rule and the anti-Communist uprisings of the 1990s. – Marvel at the colourful government buildings (notably the intstagrammable Ministry of Agriculture and the ones at Skanderbeg Square). – Spot the many decorated electric boxes (I saw a Pikachu, Salvador Dali and Angry Birds). – Visit the Pyramid of Tirana (Originally built to celebrate the life of ex-communist leader Enver Hoxha. It is currently abandoned. – Admire the art at Bunk Art2. An old bomb shelter that has been converted into a history museum and contemporary art gallery. – Join a cooking course and make a 3 course Albanian meal. – See the beautiful historical Et’hem Bey Mosque – Walk around the trendy area of Blloku, here you’ll find lots of cool cafes! – Go up the Sky Tower for a drink and beautiful views over the city. – Day trip to Lake Komani and Shala river

Where to stay in Tirana – We stayed at the Villa 27 Apartments . It was just €14 a night for a double room! They had free parking just outside and are within walking distance to the town centre.

Day 2 – Drive from Tirana to Ksamil with a stop in Gjirokaster

Your second day will be a long driving day whilst you road trip down 300km to Ksamil in the far south of Albania. The drive will take just under 5 hours, you can break it up by making a slight detour to the charming town of Gjirokaster.

Gjirokaster’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman town. The city is overlooked by Gjirokastër Fortress, the ruins of which you can visit and enjoy a nice view over the city and valley. The roads near the Old Town are steep and cobbled so I would avoid driving near here if you can (I saw one car sliding backwards down a hill!). Park just outside and walk in.

I would recommend leaving Tirana in the morning so you get to Gjirokaster by lunchtime. You’ll can stop to enjoy some local food before exploring the Old Town. I ate at the Taverna Kuka, which had a super cute terrace and tasty food! You can also join a walking tour for under €15.

You’ll then need to drive 1 hour 20 minutes to reach your final destination of Ksamil.

Where to stay in Ksamil – I stayed at the Vila Renato . They offer little studios with a kitchenette and private bathroom, within walking distance of the main beaches. Our room slept 4 and was just €30 a night during the summer holidays.

Day 3 – Ksamil

Ksamil (pronouned Kuh-sar-mil) is a beautiful coastal town on the Albanian Riviera . It’s one of the cheapest beach holiday locations so is very popular with backpackers. It has beautiful crystal clear waters as well as 4 rocky Islands to explore, making a super instagrammable photo spot . If you are a strong swimmer you can swim to the closest two islands at low tide. Otherwise you can hire kayaks or pedalos.

Ksamil can get very busy in the summer holidays, so I would recommend going off season in June or September to avoid the crowds. If you are unable to avoid visiting during the summer holidays I would recommend booking a sun lounger the day before. There is hardly any ‘free space’ on the beaches in Ksamil and the sun loungers sell out very quickly. You can also escape the crowds by visiting the beautiful nearby Pulëbardha Beach.

Enjoy your time chilling out on the beach in Ksamil, as well as trying out the many rooftop (sea view) bars and restaurants.

Day 4 – Ksamil, Butrint National Park and continuing your Albanian Riviera road trip

If you are staying in Ksamil for a few nights then make sure to check out Butrint National Park, just a 20 minute drive south of Ksamil and one of the most important archaeological sites in Albania. Butrint National Park contains different artefacts and structures, dating from the Iron Age up until the Middle Ages. Numerous monuments are still extant including the city walls, a late-antique baptistery, a great basilica, roman theatre and two castles. The entrance fee is 700 LEK (around €6) and there is a free parking there if you drive, otherwise you can get the local bus from Ksamil.

After visiting Butrint National Park you can continue your Albanian Riviera road trip . Head north 30 minutes to the seaside town of Sarande where you can stop for lunch and to enjoy the beach a bit.

Next, follow the coastal road just over an hour north to Himare, another beautiful town on the Albanian Riviera. If you are backpacking on a budget you might want to consider staying in Himare, it is considerably cheaper than the nearby town of Dhermi, and the beach is mostly open space (no parasols to rent taking up all the place). If you’re in Himare make sure to grab some pizza at Pizzeria La Famiglia for the best view over Himare beach.

Where to stay – We decided to treat ourselves and stay at the luxurious Vila Kristi in Dhermi. We had a really nice clean and modern room with breakfast included for €80 a night. If you’re on a tighter budget you should look for accommodation in nearby Himare.

Day 5 – Dhermi, Himare and Gjipe Beach

Spend the day exploring more of Albania’s beautiful beaches including my favourite, Gjipe Beach.

Gjipe Beach is not accessible by car so it is one of the least busiest beaches in Albania. Even during the summer holidays there weren’t too many people here! You can either park near the top and walk down a beautiful panoramic path for 30 minutes like in the picture below (but it’s very steep) or you can drive to the parking at the bottom of the road and walk for 25 minutes along a less steep road (but it’s not as scenic).

I would also recommend checking out both Palasa Beach and Dhermi Beach in Dhermi. Picture beachside bars, colourful parasols and epic mountain landscapes!

Day 6 – Drive from Dhermi to Shkoder via Kruje

Today will be another long driving day whilst you road trip 4.5 hours to Shkoder in the north of Albania. You can break up the drive by stopping at the Medieval town of Kruje. The bazaar selling lots of brightly coloured souvenirs makes for a great instagram photo opportunity.

If you have more time, you might want to consider a detour to Berat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with very unique architecture. You could even sign up for a cooking class there!

Once you arrive in Shkoder, be sure to head to Rruga Kolë Idromeno (a super cute street) and grab some food at the Rooftop Bar Restorant Piceri Chicago. Here you can enjoy a very reasonably priced pizza with a beautiful view, perfect for people watching!

If you want to go to Theth the following day you will need to book it today (we booked the jeep via our hotel).

Where to stay in Shkoder – We stayed at the Hotel Kurtabeg , it was super cheap at only €17 a night for a double room with a private bathroom, but the rooms were very old and basic.

Day 7 – Theth

One of the highlights of my Albania road trip itinerary was my time in the beautiful mountain village of Theth in the Albanian Alps.

How to get to Theth

The road into the valley is thin and broken so you will need a 4 x 4 to drive here. Most people opt to book a €10 per person jeep there and leave their cars in Shkoder (we left ours at our hotel). These jeeps tend to leave Shkoder around 7:30am arriving in Theth around 10:30-11am. They will pick you up from your hotel and drop you off at your Guesthouse in Theth.

Alternatively you can book onto a group tour which will organise all of the transport for you. Or book a day trip if you’re low on time.

Where to eat in Theth

Theth is very rural so make sure to bring a packed lunch with you, as there aren’t many restaurants (or shops) around. You can book to have dinner and breakfast at your guesthouses.

Most popular hike

Today will be your longest day in Theth so I would recommend heading off for a hike as soon as you can. The most popular hike to do in Theth is to the Blue Eye . It takes about 6-7 hour to hike there and back (or you can walk there and hire a jeep back). The hike will take you past sound beautiful waterfalls and scenery, find out exactly how to get to the Blue Eye .

Theth Church

Try to get back to Theth for sunset so you can enjoy the beautiful light on the mountains at Theth Church (the cutest church ever!). Find out the best photo spots of the church in my Ultimate Guide to Theth .

Where to stay in Theth – Theth has a number of charming guesthouses which are all around €40-50 a night. We stayed at the  Marashi Guesthouse  as it is located right near Theth church (which I wanted to photograph at sunrise and sunset), had good reviews and was also one of the cheaper guesthouses.

Day 8 – Theth

Today you can either decide to go hiking, then back to Shkoder with the jeeps that leave at 11am. Or you can hike from Theth to Valbona . If you do the latter make sure to not bring too much luggage with you as you will be carrying it!

The hike from Theth is to Valbona takes around 8-9 hours (one way) and you will stay for one night in Theth and one night in Valbona (at least), you can then get a boat along the Komani Lake and back to Shkoder. You will need at least 3 full days to complete this loop from Shkoder.

If you go back to Shkoder from Theth you should arrive back around 2pm. Be sure to check out Rozafa Castle, an incredible ancient fortress that has really stood the test of time.

If you wish to visit Komani Lake and Lumi i Shales the following day you should book it today through your hotel.

Day 9 – Komani Lake and Lumi i Shales

Lake Koman (or Komani Lake) is a reservoir in northern Albania. It is located in a narrow valley surrounded by dense forested hills on vertical slopes. Sailing down the Komani Lake makes you feel like you’re in the Lord of the Rings, it really is a unique landscapes and worth a visit!

A minibus picked us up from our hotel around 8am and dropped us off at the Komani lake (€5 one way), they then helped us to get onto a boat (€5 each way). This boat took us on the most magical ride along the lake towards Lumi i Shales .

You can also visit Komani lake as part of your 3 day itinerary to Theth and Valbona . Or a day trip from Tirana .

As we were there during a very dry summer the water levels were very low, which meant the boat wasn’t able to take us the whole way to Lumi i Shales. So we were dropped off and then walked up the river for about 45 minutes. At the time we had no idea where we were going or what was going on, but it was definitely worth it! Lumi i shales (or Shala River) is located in a lush green valley, with crystal blue water, it is absolutely breath taking! There are 2 basic restaurants there offering BBQ food, just be sure to bring cash.

You will then need to walk back to the boat (keep an eye on when your boat-mates are leaving) and from there you’ll be able to get the minibus back to Shkoder.

For more information getting here check out my blog post on how to get to Lumi i Shales .

I hope you enjoy this Albania road trip itinerary. My guide will allow you to discover all the must see sites in Albania. After Albania you might consider continuing your road trip in Montenegro .

Albania Road Trip Itinerary FAQ

Driving in albania, what are the road conditions like.

I was very impressed with the condition of the roads in Albania. The main roads are all paved and a pleasure to drive on. You’ll only need a 4×4 if you decided to visit more rural parts of the country, like the road to Theth (you can also pay to take a taxi jeep there). My Albania road trip itinerary only includes covered roads that are in good condition.

Driving safety in Albania

The roads in Albania are in a good condition, the main safety issue of driving in Albania is with the local drivers, who can be a bit crazy. In general I had no problem driving in Albania, there was just the odd moment when cars would overtake me incredibly fast (once when a car was coming in the other direction). As long as you stay alert whilst driving you will be fine.

Crossing the border from Albania to Montenegro

We hired our car in Montenegro and after spending a few days exploring the bay of Kotor we crossed the border by car into Albania.

There are two places where you can cross the border from Albania into Montenegro: – Border Crossing Hani i Hotit – Bozhaj (north of Lake Skadar) – Border Crossing Muriqan – Sukobin (south of Lake Skadar)

The border can get quite busy, so be prepared to wait (sometimes 1-2 hours). I recommend going early if you can to avoid the main bulk of cars.

If you want to drive across the border, you need to inform your car rental company in advance, as well as purchase a Green Card when you pick up the car. A Green Card is an international certificate, that shows you are covered by insurance. The price of a Green Card for one car is €42.35 (including VAT).

In order to avoid this cost and hassle you can also take a bus from Albania to Montenegro .

How much to budget for Albania

Albania’s currency.

Albania is not currently in the EU however it is a “potential candidate country” and hopes to join soon. For this reason the euro (€) is widely accepted, even if the Lek (plural lekë) is Albania’s official currency. 100 Albanian Lek equals 0.81 Euro.

ATM’s are widely available in Albania, however we sometimes struggled to find ATMs that accepted Mastercards (they were Visa only).

Daily Costs

Albania is one of the cheapest countries to visit in Europe. You can enjoy a road trip around Albania from just €20 a day per person. It’s a great destination for budget backpackers.

• Dorm bed: €5–15 a night
• Double room: starting from €15 a night
• Meal in a restaurant: €1–6 per person (we had a number of good pizza’s for just €5)
• Car rental: starting from around €15 a day
• Petrol: €1 – €1.40 / L
• ESIM around €8-15

My 12 day Albania road trip itinerary cost around €500 per person.

Is Albania safe to visit?

Due to it’s history of communism and war, Albania does not have the best reputation. However, most western governments advise that crime and violence against foreigners is extremely rare. I personally found Albania to be very safe to travel around with the locals being very friendly and welcoming.

Best time to visit Albania

The best time to visit Albania is during the warmer weather from April to October. Peak season is during the summer holidays in July and August, the temperatures get quite high so you’ll find a lot of people by the Albanian Riviera . If you wish to enjoy the sunshine without the crowds I would aim for June or September.

I hope you have a wonderful time exploring Albania. It is definitely one of the most underrated countries in Europe, and well worth a visit! You might want to check out the 21 most instagrammable photo spots in Albania to help plan your trip some more.

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19 comments.

madhuonthego

Albania is definitely a lovely place with such a rich culture and colours..loved your post ,it’s so informative .hope to visit one day

Whaooo that looks so beautiful ! I never though about Albania as a holiday destination. I am saving this for later!

It really took my breath away! Especially all the amazing beaches!

Suvarna Arora

I was already impressed by the pictures of Albania from your IG but this guide definitely insisted me on putting it at the top. I will be referring to it in future when I can travel.

I’ve only been to Tirana so far but I would love to go back to Albania and discover the rest of the country! Such an amazing itinerary, thank you for sharing!

limitlesssecrets

I am so surprised to discover the beauty of Albania through your lens! And it’s great to know that this country is very cheap, makes it even more interesting to visit! Thanks for all the tips!

Yes it’s the perfect country to visit on a budget! You could easily do it cheaper than me too, we went in the summer holidays and didn’t always go for the cheapest hotels

thebornwanderess

Albania is such a pleasant surprise. I can’t wait to get back, maybe when it’s a bit warmer next time

lostwithjen

I’ve never been here but I would love to do this as a road trip! Theth looks so beautiful and as always your photos are stunning! Thanks for sharing ?

OMG Love you photos girl! Thanks for helping me realise how beautiful Albania is! Adding it to my bucket list.

Urban Wanders

I had no idea Albania was so beautiful! I’m especially impressed with its beaches! Thanks for shining light on less traveled destinations 🙂

I have wanted to go to Albania for ages, thanks for the informative post!

Drive from Tirana to Ksamil looks stunning. Albania looks amazing!

What beautiful photographs. Albania was never on my list until now. Thanks for the great post ?

Antonia Hiesgen

Wow! Albania has been on my list for so long! It’s still kind of a hidden gem, so hoping to be able to travel there soon!

Wow, your photos are amazing! May I ask what camera & lenses you used here?

Aw thank you! They were taken on my Canon 5d mark iii and a couple on my iphone 🙂 I share all my photography tips in my ebook on How to Take Better Photos for IG if you want to learn more about photography 🙂 https://thegingerwanderlust.com/product/how-to-take-better-photos-for-instagram/

Absolutely love this post Ellie! I am dying to visit Albania and would really love to do a road trip across eastern Europe! These tips are super helpful!

Sooo many places to see in Eastern Europe!! I really want to go back!

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Albania Road Trip – The Perfect One Week Itinerary

I have to admit that Albania was never on my radar. It’s almost never talked about as a holiday destination and so it’s easy to overlook in favour of established spots . This all changed when I started planning a trip with some good friends of mine who are also hardcore travellers . The only rules were that we must visit somewhere in Europe and it had to be somewhere none of us had been.

We spent a long time floating ideas and getting nowhere. Between the three of us it seemed that every country had already been covered ! Finally Albania was the only country left staring back at us. A bit of a mystery to us all and to everyone else I knew for that matter.

So it was settled , we were going on an Albania road trip! Fast forward to a few months later and we were all in love with this mysterious country and supremely glad that it was the last one left on the list !

In this guide I’ll give you some tops tips for your trip and show you the perfect itinerary for a one week Southern Albania road trip .

Table of Contents

The Ultimate Southern Albania Road Trip Itinerary

A stunning bay along the coastal highway

*Updated in 2024* This blog post was originally written after my first Albania road trip in 2019. I have since been back to Albania several times and have updated this post accordingly. It turns out I loved Albania so much I decided to go back and live there for 3 months in 2023! Check out more of my articles about planning your trip to Albania here .  

Why you should visit Albania

Road trips are all about taking in spectacular scenery from the car window, and Albania certainly provides . Roads will take you through lush inland valleys and along stunning Mediterranean coastline. The coastal mountains make for one of the most beautiful stretches of road I have ever driven.

In Albania, you can complete a mountain hike in the morning and be relaxing at a beach bar in the afternoon with a cocktail in hand . Delicious fresh seafood and the tasty local beverages are so affordable that you’ll actually smile when you get the bill .

Locals were friendly and welcoming, the roads for the most part were in good condition and the accommodation was beautiful and unique . Albania was quickly entered on to our list of favourite destinations!

A beautiful beach in Ksamil, Albania

When to Go?

A southern Albania road trip wouldn’t be the same without the visiting the amazing beaches of the Albanian Riviera . This means that you want as much sunshine as possible. June to August is the perfect time for almost guaranteed sunshine but you can get away with a month on either end.

May and September/October are still nice and warm for the most part, but with a slightly higher chance of cloudy days and a few extra days rain per month on average . Summer will feature daytime temperatures in the 30s and night-time temperatures in the low 20s .

The good thing about visiting Albania during spring or fall is that you can beat the crowds and still get plenty of beautiful sunny beach days!

A mountain guesthouse in Albania

Albania Safety

Albania is regarded as a very safe country to travel, with crime and violence against foreigners being extremely rare . Locals are very welcoming and for the most part will go out of their way to help you with no expectation of reward. We also met a number of women travelling solo who reported that they hadn’t experienced any harassment or concerning behaviour .

We only experienced one attempted scam. This was restaurants/bars adding an extra item or adding up the total incorrectly . When questioned about the charge they were very apologetic and corrected it without arguing . The driving can be interesting in Albania but I will cover that in the next section.

The Best Travel Insurance for Road Tripping in Albania

Don’t risk it. Road tripping without travel insurance is never a good idea! The reality of travelling overseas is that unexpected things can happen at anytime so the best thing you can do is be prepared.

For peace of mind while road tripping through Albania, Heymondo is one of the most reliable travel insurance companies that will provide you with simple and flexible coverage. Whether you’d like to protect against medical emergencies, lost luggage, or trip cancellations, Heymondo has you covered!

As a reader of The Road Is Life, you get 5% off your Heymondo travel insurance by using the link below!

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Exploring the seaside town of Himare

Driving in Albania

A quick google will find many articles written on driving in Albania. Most will assure you that death is inevitable and the roads are one giant pothole after another, with a small amount of tarmac between .

This paints a very false picture and is either outdated or based on travels into rural areas and less visited parts of the country . Whilst roads like that do exist, if you follow this Albania road trip itinerary the roads are well maintained, well-marked and a pleasure to drive on .

The main safety issue is with other drivers, but from my experience this was nowhere near as bad as people made out online . It is true that some Albanians can drive a little crazy, but if you are a competent driver and stay alert you will be fine. I never felt nervous or in danger whilst driving through southern Albania.

→A phone mount for your car is an essential item when road tripping Albania←

This Albania itinerary is full of beautiful natural vistas

Watch out for locals overtaking before blind corners and always prepare to brake after coming around a corner . People will also overtake you on potentially dangerous stretches of road, it’s best to slow a little to let them back in safely.

There are less barriers than you would expect on the high mountain roads. Make sure you take plenty of stops to admire the view so you aren’t distracted while driving!

I used Google maps on my phone to navigate and it was reliable for the entire trip. You can download the map area of Albania before leaving on your trip. I found that it’s best to buy a local sim card on arrival so that you can stay connected at all times while driving. In the case that you pass through areas with no mobile signal, you should pre-load the route on wi-fi each morning before starting the drive.

Beautiful inland river valleys

Sim Cards in Albania

I can highly recommend using an e-sim while road tripping in Albania, Airalo is awesome and I’ve used it all around the world. You just have to download the app, make sure your phone is compatible for installing an e-sim and then follow the instructions to set it up. See more about setting up your Airalo account here .

Alternatively, you can buy a regular sim card on arrival in Albania. Vodafone provides great mobile coverage around the country and there are shops all over Albania. You can get 30gb of data for 2000 lek (€20) and that will be more than enough data to get you through this road trip. 

One Week Albania Road Trip Map

To view the stops listed in order, click the square in the top left hand corner of the map below. To view a larger version of this map, click the square in the top right hand corner to open it in a new window. 

Albania Road Trip Itinerary – Days One and Two

Getting there.

The start and end point for this road trip is the town of Saranda. The most convenient way to get there is to fly to Corfu in Greece and get the ferry across. Read on for detailed instructions on how to catch the ferry from Corfu to Saranda as well as how to get there from Tirana.

Getting from Tirana to Saranda

Depending on where you are travelling from, you may find it cheaper to fly into Tirana and start the journey there. You can easily rent a car in Tirana and drive to Saranda or just take the local bus which costs 1700 lek (€17) per person.

Buses to Saranda depart daily from the regional bus terminal and the journey takes 4.5 hours. You should have cash available to buy your ticket at the station and be sure to use the bathroom before you get there, there are no toilets at the bus station (it’s more like a big parking lot) or on the bus! It does however make a short toilet stop half way through the journey.

→Check out this site to find cheap flights to Albania or Corfu←

Dine by the sea in Saranda

Catching the Ferry from Corfu to Saranda

You have the option to either book a ferry online or buy a ticket in person at the local offices of the various ferry companies. Booking online is the better choice as you can print your ticket in advance and travel straight to the ferry terminal. I personally booked at the office just to do research for this article. The process took longer than expected (30mins or so) and was a bit of a hassle.

→Check out this great search tool to easily browse and book the cheapest/most convenient ticket←

I bought a one way ticket, but you can buy a return ticket if you already have your times set in stone. Don’t worry if you aren’t sure as it’s easy to buy a return ticket at the port in Saranda. There is a café with food and ice-cold beers in the Corfu terminal and you can bring your purchases aboard.

First view of Albania from the ferry

Getting from the airport to ferry terminal by taxi:

The most convenient option is to hail a cab to the ‘new port’ (or ticket offices if you haven’t booked online). This is a lot less hassle and a better option if you have a ferry leaving soon after your flight lands. Depending on whether they wait at the ticket office it will set you back between €10 and €15.

Getting from the airport to ferry terminal by bus:

From Corfu airport there is a well-marked public bus that will take you to the Corfu Port, you want to get the #15 Blue Bus, it is a little less than €2 and you can buy a ticket on the bus. This bus will take you though the city centre and main bus terminal before continuing to the port. There are two stops when you get to the port, the first stop is the ‘old port’ and the second is the ‘new port’.

This is where it got a little confusing and resulted in a lot of walking in the heat! Your ferry will depart from the far end of the new terminal however tickets to Albania have to be purchased from ferry company offices, which are much closer to the old port.

If you booked in advance then get off at the new port. If you need to book a ticket then get off the bus at the old port, buy a ticket, then walk to the new port. See below for a map detailing the location of the ferry company offices and the route to the departure terminal.

Ionian is the company I used but all the other offices are in the same place. Also note that where it lists the ‘Port’ on the map is not where the terminal is, you have to walk an additional 5 mins to the terminal for Albania. 

Saranda is the largest town on the Albanian Riviera. It has a large beachfront promenade filled with shops, beach bars, restaurants and a nice public beach for swimming . The car rental shops are located near the ferry terminal so you have the option to explore the town or get straight on the road.

You may choose to spend the night in a hotel in Saranda before heading to Ksamil the following day or drive straight there after picking up your rental car. Ksamil is only a 20 minute drive from Saranda so either way works fine for this itinerary. 

Saranda is a much larger town with more restaurant choices and some cool sunset bars to check out. Be sure to see my guide to the best restaurants in Saranda if that’s where you choose to spend your first night in Albania. However, Ksamil is where you will find the most stunning beaches on the Albanian Rivera , so don’t linger too long in Saranda!

Whilst in Saranda you can easily buy your return ferry tickets from offices on the road outside the port. Depending on the season you plan to visit, you can typically buy your tickets the day before travel. This may not be the case during peak summer season so it’s best to pick them up when you first arrive in Saranda.

Beachfront promenade in Saranda

Renting a Car in Saranda

Saranda has plenty of car rental shops in the near vicinity of the port as well as the town center. When it comes to renting a car, you could either book your car online before arrival or check out a few different shops when you get there. 

I have personally used and can recommend Leka Car Rentals as well as Iris Car Rentals , both are local shops within walking distance from the Port of Saranda. My experience picking up and dropping off my car was smooth and hassle-free. You can expect to pay around 25 – 35 euros per day for a car rental in Albania.

When I first travelled to Albania back in 2019, there weren’t nearly as many options as there are now when it comes to renting a car. I also heard several stories of car rental companies that try to scam tourists by making them pay extra for scratches that were already there. Just be cautious and do your research about the company and read reviews online before booking.

If you are planning to road trip through Albania during high season (June – August) I would highly recommend that you book your car rental online before you get there. If you visit during shoulder season (Sept/Oct) then it’s no problem to show up and arrange your car rental once you’re already there.

Plenty of stunning viewpoints along this drive

If you’d prefer to avoid going with a local rental car company, then I would suggest booking a car with Enterprise or Avis. You can easily book a rental car through these international companies via this website . 

You can expect to get good customer service and peace of mind that you won’t run into any scams along the way. It may cost slightly more to do it this way however the price of the car rental is more than made up for by the cheap prices of everything else in Albania.

I always use Rentalcars.com no matter where in the world I travel as their excess free insurance is affordable and a good thing to have. Use the form below or click here to compare prices on car rental options in Saranda.

When searching online, just be sure to double check the pick-up location. When I used Rentalcars.com in Saranda, for some reason it also showed me many options located in Greece!

Arriving into Ksamil is when Albania will start blowing your mind! It’s a picture-perfect bay with the most amazing turquoise water and beach bars perched invitingly over it . The drive from Saranda is also impressive, the road weaves through the hills with views of beautiful mountain valleys and rivers .

Ksamil is one of the most popular destinations in Southern Albania so it won’t be quiet but is still 100% worth it. I recommend to stay two nights in Ksamil as you will be arriving fairly late and will definitely want a full day of relaxation and fun here .

The main beach of Ksamil

What to do in Ksamil

There are beach bars everywhere in Ksamil, offering beach beds on the sand or on decks over the water. Patience is the key to finding the perfect place to spend your day. The guys running the bars will approach you and try to tempt you in but the main entrance from town is not the best area.

You want to make sure you are near the tip of the peninsula sticking out towards the 3 outlying islands, this area has the nicest bars and best views . A beach chair at one of the nicer places will set you back about 1000 – 2500 lek (10-25 euros) for the entire day! Tre Ishujt Restaurant & Lounge is one of the most popular places in this area.

I personally liked Blue Diamond Bar on Lori Beach or anywhere on the main Ksamil Beach (as seen in the photo below) which is surrounded by beach bars/restaurants. The cocktails and beers, whilst being more expensive than most other places in Albania, are still fairly cheap .

The stunning white sand and turquoise water of Ksamil Beach

Clifftop Restaurants

Whilst you can easily order lunch from the comfort of your beach chair, I would recommend hiking uphill for lunch with a view . There are restaurants perched along the cliffs overlooking the bay with amazing views. You may struggle to eat your meal as your jaw will be hanging wide open the entire time!

Seriously though, the seafood is top notch as well as a large number of other Mediterranean dishes served in a beautiful atmosphere . I can recommend Bar Restorant Korali Ksamil as this is where we ate and it was delicious. Guvat Restaurant (which is located right next door) is also an amazing restaurant with stunning views. 

At various locations around the bay you can hire all sorts of water sports equipment. You can either go to where the equipment is tied up near a jetty or just ask your waiter/waitress, as most beach bars will be able to arrange it for you . You can hire paddle boats, paddle boards, kayaks, snorkelling gear and take speedboat or jet ski rides around the islands .

A gorgeous view from Guvat Restaurant in Ksamil

Butrint Archaeological Park

The ruins of Butrint are a short drive or bus trip from Ksamil and are well worth a quick visit during your stay. This UNESCO World Heritage site has evidence of being occupied since 50,000 BC and today you can see the ruins of both Greek and Roman settlements .

The rich history of this site also includes Byzantine and Venetian occupations. The site sits within a pleasant natural surrounds and makes for a nice walking route. You can complete this in about an hour.

Entry Ticket: 1000 lek/person

Opening Hours: 9am – 7pm daily

Butrint is full of well-preserved ancient ruins 

Where to Stay in Ksamil

When looking for accommodation you want to make sure you are an easy walk to the beach as there is quite a hill leading up to the places on the main road . Albania has a lot of places with very few reliable ratings so it is best to do your research. Below I have recommended a couple of great Ksamil hotels to consider.

Hotel Utopia – A beautiful newly built hotel in the heart of Ksamil surrounded by restaurants, shops and just steps from the beach. The spacious and modern rooms offer the perfect oasis to retreat after a long day in the sun. A bonus is the amazing breakfast you get to wake up to each morning which is included in your stay! 

Blue Eye Hotel – Another fantastic hotel p erfectly positioned to access the best part of Ksamil in only a few minutes walk and is right in town . This modern hotel has clean and comfortable rooms, as well as a swimming pool and onsite bar/restaurant . A little slice of luxury for a very reasonable price!

A bird’s eye view of Ksamil Beach and islands

Albania Road Trip Itinerary – Days Three and Four

Day three is the biggest day of the trip so you will want to get an early start. There is about four hours driving in total but split up by a couple of stops so you don’t get too tired.

The Blue Eye of Albania

The Blue Eye, otherwise known as Syri i Kaltër in Albania, is a beautiful natural water spring outside of Saranda. It comprises a natural pool with a stunning range of hues and a pit that goes down at least 50m.

You have to pay a small fee to enter the national park so make sure you have some lek on you. It was 50 lek entry per person at the time of writing and 200 lek for parking your car.

From the main road you will turn onto a gravel road and after a short time you will see a booth where they collect payment . You will then cross a one lane bridge and follow the road for about 10 mins or so until you reach an area with a few buildings and a parking lot .

The Blue Eye is also one of the most popular day trips from Saranda so aim to get there early in the day to avoid the big crowds and tour buses. 

The pristine water at the Blue Eye is incredibly inviting and may be enticing to hop in for a swim, but keep in mind that it is very cold (10 o C to be exact!)

The mysterious Blue Eye of Albania

Gjirokaster

The next stop after the Blue Eye is the ancient town of Gjirokaster. The old town area of Gjirokaster is a UNESCO site and dates back to Greek times. There are a few really old buildings but most of what you see today is Ottoman era construction. The houses in the old town are built with a very distinctive character and have roofs covered with flat stones.

When you enter Gjirokaster you should walk through the old town first and admire the interesting architecture . You can then start ascending towards the fortress for a brilliant view from above.

As you walk uphill towards the fortress, you will hit an intersection where you turn left to see the fortress or right up another road . If you turn right and walk a short distance up the road you will find a great viewpoint of the old town.

Streets of Gjirokaster

The fortress itself is definitely worth a visit, even if only for the views of the surrounding mountains and valley . There are plaques with historical information and you can walk around the whole place in about half an hour .

You should add on extra time however for finding a quiet spot to sit and look out over the beautiful countryside .

*NOTE* Your GPS will try to take you up a crazy mountain road if you enter Gjirokaster as your destination. I can tell you from experience that this is not a good idea! If you set your destination as Cerciz Topulli Square it will take you down the correct road. See the map below for reference.

Great views from the Gjirokaster fortress

The drive to Berat is the longest of the trip, but the roads are almost all main roads/highways and easy to drive. We made a stop for lunch in a city called Fier, which you will pass through along the way. Alternatively you can have lunch in Gjirokaster or bring some food and find a nice place to stop.

You will likely arrive in Berat in the late afternoon or evening. You should drive straight to your accommodation so you can enjoy the amazing sunset views here . I recommend staying for 2 nights as there are a lot of great things to do in Berat .

*NOTE* Google maps plots the best route even though it looks like there is a shorter route. Don’t be tempted to take a short-cut as they are some pretty dicey mountain roads.

The town of Berat

What to do in Berat

Stay in a 13 th century fortress

The pretty town of Berat that you may have seen in photos is down on the river bank. What many people don’t know before visiting is that high up above Berat is a 13th century fortress and you can stay in it! 

This is an absolute highlight of the trip. The guesthouses are quaint and cosy and have amazing mountain views. I recommend two different guest-houses below and you should try to book early. While Albania is certainly not busy like Western Europe, the guest-houses can book out due to a limited number of rooms .

Amazing views from Guest House Iljesa

Walk around the fortress

Within the fortress you can walk around the walls to find some impressive viewpoints and some nice places to enjoy a drink with a view . You will also find the 13th century Holy Trinity Church , which is a beautiful building set into the side of the fortress .

Make sure to locate the panoramic viewpoint above Berat. If you circumnavigate the fortress you will come across it but your guest-house can also point you in the right direction.

The town of Berat lies on the bank of the Osum River and is yet another UNESCO notch in Albania’s belt. The old town comprises many beautiful churches, mosques and murals. Like many places in Albania it is a blend of many civilizations across history.

The town of Berat is actually made up of three parts. The fortress town ‘Kalaja’, the main town called ‘Mangalem’ and a final area across the river named ‘Gorica’ . The bridge across to Gorica gives you a great view back of main part of town and we found a great photo op by walking down into the almost dry river basin .

From the fortress a walking path can take you down to the old town. The path is very steep so if you are not confident going down or coming back up then you can always drive down into town. There is plenty of free parking along the river.

The road to the fortress is one way so you have to do a little loop down through the countryside and back into town which takes around 10mins .

Driving into the fortress

Within the main town there are a couple of interesting museums to visit.

The National Iconographic Museum Onufri is housed inside one of the old churches. It has an amazing collection of religious paintings and murals. The unique style of the paintings and the beautiful gilding of the church make it well worth the 200 lek entry fee.

The National Ethnographic Museum Berat is found within an old Ottoman era house and gives you a view into how people lived in those times . You can walk around the house and get a great feeling for the rigours of life in antiquity, as well as some information about the history of Berat .

Views from the top of the castle

Touring an Albanian winery is definitely a unique experience and there are a couple you could visit in proximity to Berat .

The Cobo Winery is conveniently situated along the road you will take after you leave Berat. You can tour the vineyard and have a tasting session before purchasing a bottle to enjoy on the riviera later that day . Have your guesthouse give them a call so they can expect you as it is a family run business.

Nurellari Winery is in a beautiful location, the views adding great ambiance to your tasting . They offer a selection of vintage wines paired with homemade jams and a selection of cheeses. It’s in the opposite direction from where you’ll be driving so it is better to visit as a day-trip for a couple of hours.

Taxis in Berat will take you out there and even wait for you for a very reasonable price. The other option is to take a day trip from Berat, you will likely have a better experience when arranged by a local. This wine tasting tour is an easy way to sample the wines and history of this region. It lasts for 7 hours and also includes a visit to Berat Castle as well as a traditional lunch.

Tours in Berat

There is a lot to see within Berat and also in the surrounding countryside. A walking tour of Berat is a great way to delve a little deeper into the history of Berat through the eyes and experience of a local. There are also beautiful waterfalls, a huge canyon and one of the largest caves in Albania. See below for my recommended tours and to explore times/prices.

Where to stay in Berat

I cannot stress enough how amazing it was staying in the 13th century fortress high above Berat. Many people don’t realize you are able to stay up there and so miss out.

We stayed at Guest House Iljesa. They have a terrace right on the edge of the wall with sweeping views over the mountains and countryside. The guesthouse itself has a beautiful rustic charm and the staff were super friendly. A bartender is present at almost all hours to serve you on the terrace. They also do an amazing breakfast every morning.

Hotel Klea is another great option. We ate most meals here as they have a beautiful garden dining area. You can watch the chef collecting fresh veggies and herbs to create your meal. We had great conversations with the friendly family who run the place and the food was top notch. I will definitely try staying here next time I’m in town!

→Browse more accommodation options in Berat←

The garden restaurant at Hotel Klea

Albania Road Trip Itinerary – Days Five and Six

Today will see you driving one of the most stunning roads I have ever seen. There are a couple of optional stops to visit along the way. After this you will wind your way up into verdant mountain landscapes, with towering peaks on one side and spectacular ocean views on the other .

I have suggested several possible overnight stops along the riviera, depending on how far your wish to drive today . They are listed in the order that you come across them. If following this itinerary you will have 2 nights to stay along the coast. You could choose to stay at a different beach each night if you want to explore more of the riviera. Otherwise you can spend two nights in the same place and maximise that relaxation time!

If you are spending two nights in the same place I would recommend driving at least to Himare. This way you will have less worry about making it back to Saranda on time.

An amazing viewpoint on Llogara Pass

Optional Stops

The first optional stop is Ardenic a Monastery , built in 1282 by a Byzantine emperor. It features some beautiful and unique wooden construction, including the altar piece as well as frescos from numerous centuries. The ticket is cheap and must be purchased in cash at the door.

The second optional stop is the ruins of Apollonia. Here you can find the frontage of a temple dating back to Greek times, around the 6 th Century BC. You can also find a Byzantine Christian complex dating to the 13 th century and an archaeological museum.

The Llogara Pass

This mountain pass is the final hurdle you must cross before descending down to the world class beaches of the Albanian Riviera . Driving this stretch of road was one of the most enjoyable experiences of any road trip I have done. The views are simply sublime.

When you reach the top of the pass there are three restaurants where you can stop for a well-earned lunch. All the restaurants have decks with incredible panoramic views. They all have good ratings so if you can’t get a table on the deck at one, then move along to the next one. This is not a place to be eating inside!

Plenty of photo ops along the way

Beaches and Accommodation Along the Riviera

Drymades beach.

Drymades Beach will be the first major beach area that you come across as you leave the Llogara Pass. Depending on how long it has taken you to drive and how you are feeling it can make a decent overnight stop for your first night . I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are so tired that you can’t drive a little further. I preferred both the beaches and accommodation options further down the coast.

This beach is close to the busy town of Dhermi but it is separate from Dhermi Beach. It is found closer to Gjileke and is quieter than Dhermi beach, which is covered in beach chairs. Drymades beach has a sandy part to give you a break from all the pebbles and some lovely rock formations which make for great pictures .

Visit the stunning Drymades Beach while driving through Albania

Where to Stay in Drymades Beach

If you do decide to overnight at Drymades Beach, you should stay at Guest House Four Seasons . It is a little ways up the hill from Drymades Beach, meaning you will have to drive a few minutes to get there. In exchange you get sweeping views across the ocean and mountains from your balcony.

If you want a little more action and some good restaurant options you might want to continue on to Dhermi . The beach is more busy, but you won’t be able to beat the absolute beachfront access offered by Vela E Bardhe . They have cute cottage style rooms right on the ocean with an onsite restaurant and bar.

→ Browse more accommodation options in Drymades Beach ←

Gjipe Beach

The next beach of note is Gjipe beach, a hidden gem tucked away down a trail which is inaccessible by vehicles. This is not ideal to stay on as you will have to carry all your stuff down but is a nice beach for a visit.

If you make the 30min trek down to this beach you are rewarded by a beautiful little cove which you can have almost to yourself ! There is a small campground at the bottom that sells drinks and that you can stay in if you wish.

The seafront of Himare

Himare is the perfect area to base yourself if you wish to spend two nights in the same place. The seafront of Himare is nicely developed and the beach is beautiful. There is a good selection of bars and restaurants set back from the water.

The beach of Himare can be a little busy in the summer months so you could try staying at one of the nearby beaches if you want a quieter experience (keep in mind that no beach in Albania comes close to being as busy as a typical European beach!).

Livadhi Beach is a few kilometres to the north of Himare and has some beautiful accommodation options.

Lamani Beach is about the same distance in the opposite direction. It’s a small beach with limited accommodation options but is a stunning place to spend a day or even a morning before returning to Himare.

Himare offers some great dining and drinking options

Where to Stay in Himare

Hotel ARXONTIKO will allow you to take advantage of Himare’s many bar and restaurant options . The beautiful and modern 4 star hotel has a prime location right on the beach. A great place to stay if basing yourself in Himare for 2 nights. You can’t beat having stunning ocean views from the comfort of your bed.

Calliope Apartments offers equally beautiful scenery but added space and tranquility. Located on Livadhi beach, they have self-contained apartments with everything you need.

→Browse more accommodation options in Himare←

Borsh Beach

Borsh beach is the perfect place to spend your second night, or to have somewhere quiet both nights. This is the longest beach of the Albanian Riviera and also one of the least busy. We were there in the middle of the day in summer and had almost the entire beach to ourselves.

The views from Borsh beach are also stunning. The mountains are set a little farther back from the beach in this area and they cradle a valley full of olive and fruit trees .

Rent a cheap beach chair for the day at Borsh Beach

Where to Stay in Borsh Beach

I’m going to recommend two very different options to spend what is potentially your last night in Albania .

If you want to go out with a bang and in proper resort style then spend a night at the Sole Luna Hotel . This recently built hotel has luxurious rooms and a high quality onsite beach bar and restaurant . You have free use of their beach furniture and great views no matter which way your room is facing!

On the other end of the spectrum, and the beach, is the beautiful Guest House Luiza . It is set back from the beach amongst the orchards and the building resembles a cozy log cabin. The rooms are simple yet comfortable and offer a kitchenette and fridge.

→Browse more accommodation options in Borsh←

Albania Road Trip Itinerary – Day Seven

Saranda and home.

The final day of the trip will see you returning to Saranda and doing the first day in reverse. Depending on where you have chosen to spend the last night you will have to allow differing amounts of time to get back to Saranda .

This stretch of road is winding and mountainous so you should allow at least half an hour above what the GPS suggests . There are some beautiful viewpoints along the road so if you are planning to stop for photos you might want to allow even more time .

It’s best to book an evening flight so you can get away with a morning at the beach. Check out some of the beautiful beaches in Saranda if your schedule allows for it. 

Also keep in mind that returning a car in Albania can take longer than you expect. The offices are small and there are not so many staff. The good part is that after returning the car, you are already at the port. If you haven’t already booked your ferry ticket then there are ferry company offices all along the street outside the port .

We hope you enjoy your amazing Albania Road Trip!

Read More Balkans Travel Guides

• Ksamil vs Saranda – which town is better to stay in?
• 23 Best Places to Visit in Albania
• The Best Beaches in Saranda and the Albanian Riviera
• The Best Ksamil hotels for every budget
• Day Trip to Mostar from Dubrovnik – The Ultimate Guide
• The Best Hotels in Saranda, Albania
• The 12 Best Day Trips from Saranda, Albania

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Hello and welcome to my blog!

I’m Ann, a free-spirited Canadian adventurer who quit my 9-5 to hike mountains, chase waterfalls and live life to the fullest!

A lover of road trips, good wine and off the beaten path destinations – you will find these topics covered in depth on my blog.

Travel has changed my life for the better and I want to show you how it can do the same for you!

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Well done! What a super comprehensive article! I have to admit that I know very little about Albania and it was never on my radar either. After reading this article, however, it has definitely changed my views and Albania has now been added to the formidable bucket list!

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I guess Abania suffered a really bad earthquake. I read about it on the news. It sounds like the death tole is currently at 23. I can only imagine how horrible that would be… It was a big earthquake too. 6.4 magnitude

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Thanks for the heads up about always double-checking the bill/ watching the charges. I’ve never thought about a trip to Albania but it looks beautiful and sounds like a great time, definitely sparked my interest! Thanks for sharing 🙂

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Albania Itinerary: An Epic 2 Week Albania Road Trip from Alps to Riviera & Ohrid Lake

This 2 Week Albania Itinerary covers the Albanian Riviera, historical Ottoman-era towns, the capital Tirana and gorgeous off-the-beaten path destinations in the South and East of Albania (including lake Ohrid) . My Albania road trip route also includes the best places to see and things to do in each location, accommodation options, transportation, driving times and distances, places to eat, and other handy Albania travel tips.

If you have more time to travel in Albania, I also provide an extended 3 week in Albania route which includes the Northern side of the country- the Albanian Alps with the Valbona-Theth hike . Two alternative routes are also included in this guide: a 2-week itinerary from Albanian Alps to Albanian Riviera and 2 weeks in Albanian Alps all the way to Lake Ohrid .

Albania is not yet under many tourists’ radar. However, a good word is spreading and interest in visiting Albania is growing faster each year. Underdog of the Balkans, having been closed from the rest of the world for more than 40 years, Albania is probably one of the most understated countries in Southern Europe. It is no surprise that mentioning Albania as my travel choice, made many eyes roll. Despite that, I have visited Albania twice so far.

Albania will be a dream place for those of you seeking an authentic, a little rustic, untouched by social media, and also a very affordable travel experience in Europe that combines lots of beautiful nature, culture, history, and adventure. 

The country is still in the transition period. From being chained by the communist regime for several decades, completely closed from the outside world to suddenly being exposed to it, there is definitely a lot to take in and figure out for the Albanian people. Nonetheless, Albania is extremely welcoming to foreign visitors and surprisingly easy to travel around. 

Located in south-eastern Europe, Albania is scarred by dramatic history but blessed with incredible nature- from turquoise waters of Adriatic and Ionian coasts , deep canyons, refreshing lakes, and gushing rivers, to breathtaking Albanian Alps inviting for some of the best hikes in the Balkans.

Meanwhile, the UNESCO-listed Berat and Gjirokastër towns are perfect places for those who love traveling back in time, history, and beautiful old architecture. 

Based on my traveling in Albania experience, here is my modified itinerary, part of which can be done using public transport (buses and minivans) and the rest of it as a road trip in a rental car . Although public connections are available to all the places mentioned in this guide, they are not as frequent and convenient as self-driving. 

RELATED READS: Driving in Albania- everything you need to know before renting a car.

Keep on reading this day-by-day Albania Itinerary for the best places to see, things to do , and what to skip. Plan your own perfect trip to Albania with my practical traveling in Albania tips, including recommended accommodation in Albania, how to get around, as well as driving times and distances between each leg of the trip, and last but not least- great places to eat in each destination. 

Disclaimer:  This post contains affiliate links, which means that I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). This helps to keep my blog running and growing by creating more awesome free content for you.

2-week Albania Itinerary for a Perfect Road Trip (extendable to 3 weeks)

Albania itinerary overview.

• Day 1: Tirana
• Day 2: Tirana-Berat
• Day 3: Berat
• Day 4: Berat-Himara
• Day 5: Himara (visit Dhermi and Gjipe) 
• Day 6: Himara (visit Borsh) 
• Day 7: Himara- Gjirokaster
• Day 8: Gjirokaster
• Day 9: Gjirokaster- Permet
• Day 10: Permet – Korca
• Day 11: Korca- Lin
• Day 12: Lin
• Day 13: Lin-Tirana
• Day 14: Tirana

Extended 3-week Albania itinerary

• Day 15: Tirana – Shkodra (Shkoder) 
• Day 16: Shkodra-Komani Lake Ferry-Valbona
• Day 17: Valbona Pass hike to Theth
• Day 18: Theth
• Day 19: Theth-Shkodra
• Day 20: Shkodra- Kruje
• Day 21: Kruje-Tirana

Albania Itinerary Map

Albania travel essentials

• My TOP TIP : The best way to explore Albania is by self-driving. Look for the best rental car rates at Localrent or Discover Cars .
• Best flight deals: Use Skyscanner to find the cheapest and fastest flights to Albania from your location.
• Accommodation: book your perfect stay using Booking.com .
• Before You Go: 90-day tourist visa is free for most nationalities; if not apply for an Albania visa easily at iVisa .
• Travel insurance : for safe traveling in Albania. Get a quote at SafetyWing or World Nomads .
• Guided tours: look for the best-rated Albania tours on Viator .
• Local SIM Card: Get a sim at the Tirana airport arrivals hall. The best coverage is provided by Vodafone. A tourist pack with 70 GB of data and free local calls costs 2000 LEK (17 EUR).

Recommended guided day tours in Albania:

• Tirana Walking Tour with Food Tasting (5/5 Viator)
• Rafting in Osumi Canyons (5/5 Viator)
• Kayaking and hiking Valbona Pass in 4 days from Tirana (5/5 Viator)
• Pearls of Albania in 8 days (5/5 Viator) – for those who prefer everything organized this tour covers almost all the main highlights of Albania .

About this Albania road trip itinerary

How much time to spend in albania.

This Albania itinerary is created based on my two separate trips. One of them covered 2 weeks of exploring the central, southern, and eastern parts of the country, while the other was focused on visiting the Northern side of Albania for one week.

To see all the places mentioned in this guide you will definitely need 3 weeks in Albania. 

The first two weeks in Albania route is planned as a loop starting and finishing in the capital Tirana. Meanwhile, an extended itinerary adds one week in Albania coving the Northern side-Shkoder and the Albanian Alps.

If you do not have 3 weeks to spare for your trip to Albania and feel like mixing and matching some of the places, or cutting off some time spent in one of the locations and adding more time to the other, you can definitely do so.

My main advice is- do not try seeing the whole country in a short period of time. Logistically and in time wise it would be simply impossible. You can modify this Albania route depending on what you love exploring the most- is it mountains, beaches, historical towns, or bustling cities?

By reading the details about each location on my Albania itinerary route, you will get a good idea if the place is your cup of tea (or coffee).

To give you more inspiration on how to best schedule the trip, I have created two alternative 2-week in Albania route suggestions, where I mixed around parts of the original route. I share those at end of this post.

Also, bear in mind the time of the year that you choose to travel to Albania. For example, the Valbona-Theth hike is seasonal and can be done from late May to early October. Outside these months trail might not be passable, so you have to take this into account when planning.

RELATED READS: Read my detailed post about Valbona-Theth hike in Albanian Alps.

How to get around Albania? Transportation used in this Albania route

Although the whole trip could be completed using public transport only I would strongly recommend renting a car for visiting the Albanian Riviera. Also, the southern and eastern parts of Albania have a lot of beautiful corners reachable only by car, while public transport is sparse. Meanwhile, you can absolutely get away without a car in the section of the route covering the Northern side of Albania. 

On my two-week trip to Albania, I picked up the rental car a few days later into the trip as I did not need it for Tirana and the mountain town Berat which I reached using public transport.

Instead of Tirana airport, I hired a car from the port town of Durres because it was more convenient for continuing the trip to the Albanian Riviera. However, this choice might not be for everyone and usually, travellers rent a car at Tirana Airport upon arrival. If you don’t want the hassle of using public transport I would advise doing just that. 

Renting a car in Albania

My recommended place to get the best car rental deals in Albania is Localrent search aggregator. It caters to local car providers and therefore terms and conditions for hiring a car are much more favorable. The deposit is in cash and can be as low as 50 EUR, sometimes none. I rented a car using Localrent and had a great experience. 

The other website I also use when travelling is Discovercars as they also have some of the best deals on the internet (in case Localrent runs out of supply).

• Click here for the best car rental deals with Localrent
• Click here to compare prices with Discovercars.

RELATED READS: Also read my guide to driving in Albania for all the information and questions you may have about hiring a car in Albania. 

Where to stay in Albania- quick links

For your reference, below is a list of recommended accommodations in each location of this Albania itinerary. Please refer for more details under each destination.

• Where to stay in Tirana: Maritim Plaza Hotel (high-end); Galeria Apartment (mid-range); Tirana Backpaker Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Berat: Timo’s Guesthouse (boutique homestay); Hani I Xheblatit (boutique hotel); Berat Backpakers Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Himara: Prado Luxury Hotel (luxury); Amphora Guesthouse &Apartments (mid-range); Filikur Hostel Himare (budget).
• Where to stay in Gjirokaster: Kerculla Resort (high-end); Boutique Hotel Musee (boutique); Konaku Guest House (mid-range); Stone rooms 1850 (budget)
• Where to stay in Permet: Villa Permet (high-end); Traditional Guest House Permet (mid-range); The Mozaik House (mid-range)
• Where to stay in Korca: Hani I Pazarit Boutique Hotel (luxury boutique); IN Gallery & Spa (high-end); Villa Domenico (mid-range); Petro’s Apartment (budget).
• Where to stay in Lin: Guest House Lin (mid-range); Rosa B&B (budget)
• Where to stay in Shkoder: Hotel Tradita (boutique); Hotel-Legjenda (mid-range); All Seasons Apartment (mid-range); The Wanderers Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Valbona: Villas Jezersca (mid-range).
• Where to stay in Theth : Guest House Bec Villi (guesthouse); Guest House Marashi (mid-range).
• Where to stay in Kruja: Hotel Panorama Kruje (high-end); Rooms EMILIANO (mid-range)

Albania Itinerary Day-by-Day

Day 1: tirana (overnight in tirana) .

Tirana is the capital of Albania and it is also the only city that has an international airport. Therefore, it is likely your entry point will be Airport Nënë Tereza , also often called Rinas International Airport (TIA). 

Tirana is an up-and-coming European city known for its colorful buildings, street art and murals, vibrant coffee shop, and bar scene. Although not a pretty city, but definitely with a distinctive character and turbulent history, Tirana is worth to be explored for at least a full day.

All main sites in Tirana are within walking distance and most of them are located around Skanderbeg Square . 

I recommended joining 2 hours free walking tour which starts in Skanderbeg Square in front of the Opera house daily at 10 AM. The guides are knowledgeable and will give a good insight into Albania’s past and put many things into perspective. 

• If you prefer a more in-depth and smaller group tour, you may want to check out this 6 hours Tirana Walking Tour which combines food experience and includes breakfast and lunch.

The most important and interesting places to visit in Tirana are:

– BunkArt1 and BunkArt2 museums set up in real communist era bunkers. Detailed exhibitions explain the dark history of Albania during the communist regime. 

– Blloku District- a former compound for important communist politicians now turned into to coolest area filled with trendy cafes and bars.

– Spot the colorful buildings and beautiful murals of Tirana which are dotted all around the city. The initiative to awaken the grey apartment blocks by re-painting them in funky colorful patterns was Tirana’s Mayor idea. This makeover makes the capital of Albania stand out as one of the most colorful European towns. 

– Take a cable car ride to Dajti mountain 1600 meters above sea level. The elevated views over the city of Tirana and the surrounding mountain range are unbeatable.

READ MORE: make sure to check my Tirana city guide- a n itinerary of the best things to do in Tirana for 1-2 days .

Where to eat in Tirana

• Traditional Albanian food at restaurant Oda is reasonably priced and makes delicious stuffed eggplants.
• For the best coffee and funky art deco interior go to Coin, and try guarida- cinnamon-infused sweet espresso macchiato. 
• High-end: Maritim Plaza Hotel – one of the newest hotels in the heart of Tirana, offers a luxury 5-star hotel experience, sauna, and baths overlooking the city. Click here for prices and availability.
• Boutique: La Suite Boutique Hotel -modern and sheek boutique hotel close to Blloku, Pyramid of Tirana, and Lana River. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Hotel Restaurant Bujtina e Gjelit – featuring a courtyard with a pool, an in-house restaurant serving local and international dishes, an art gallery, and traditionally decorated rooms, this hotel will make you feel like you left the city. Yet it is in close proximity to the center. Click here to check prices and availability.
• Apartments: Galeria Apartment – an airy self-contained apartment that can host up to 6 people, with private free parking, a beautiful terrace overlooking central Tirana, walking distance from all main attractions in town, including a modern shopping mall. Click here for prices and availability.
• Apartments: Bujtina Shqiptare – I stayed here and loved the huge size of the self-contained apartment that has everything you need-fully equipped kitchen and washing machine, also a balcony overlooking Tirana and the mountains. Only 700 meters from Skanderbeg square, with shops and restaurants around, it is a perfect place to stay in Tirana for a few days. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Tirana Backpaker Hostel -laid back and cozy hostel offering mixed dorms and private rooms, a 10-minute walk from Skanderbeg Square. Click here for prices and availability.

Day 2-3: Tirana- Berat (2 nights in Berat)

• Distance: 120 KM from Skanderbeg Square
• Driving time: 2 HRS

UNESCO heritage-listed Berat is a charming Ottoman-era town. Also, called a town of “thousand windows” due to its unique architecture, Berat features two historical neighborhoods divided by the river Osum.

Gorica , the Christian side, and Mangalem , the Muslim side that extends up to the castle quarter, form the old part of Berat. 

Berat is possibly the most magical historical town in Albania. Wandering the maze of narrow cobblestone streets, watching locals ride old school bicycles and play chess, climbing up the Berat castle to catch panoramic views at sunset, and last but not least eating the best foods at Lili’s home-made food restaurant are some of the wonderful things you can do in Berat. 

If you have more time to spare, there are a few fantastic natural attractions to explore outside the city. Osumi canyon and the waterfalls , or even hiking the mighty Tomorri summit .

Where to eat in Berat

• Lili’s Homemade Food Restaurant is hands down the best restaurant in Albania- the food is unbeatable, while the host Lili is one of a kind. Make sure to reserve well in advance as the word had already spread and the restaurant has only 5 tables.
• Pasticeri Tori Berat – best ice cream and ice cream-based desserts in town.
• Gimi Café – serves fantastic coffee and pancakes.

Places to stay in Berat

• Boutique Home Stay: Timo’s Guesthouse – a homestay in a traditional Ottoman house in Mangalem area features unbeatable terrace views over the Gorica quarter, the best breakfast you can expect, and, of course, unmatched hospitality from the hosts. I stayed here twice and would do it again. Click here for prices and availability.
• Boutique Hotel: Hani I Xheblatit – located in Mangalem area, boasting a restaurant, bar, and beautiful shared terrace this hotel provides nicely decorated traditional Albanian family rooms, exceptional breakfast, and free parking also included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Berat Backpakers Hostel – Located in Gorica quarter, this nice hostel provides mixed dorms and family rooms, a shared kitchen, and a terrace. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Berat from Tirana by bus: frequent buses and minibusses (every 30-60 minutes) are available from South and North Tirana Bus Terminal ( Terminali i Autobusave të Jugut dhe Veriut ), the exact location here . The ticket price is 500 LEK, and the journey takes 2 hrs 15min or longer depending on the traffic. In Berat, the final stop is Berat Bus Terminal ( Terminale i Autobusave ) located 3 kilometers from the old town. From the station, across the road, you can catch a city bus for 30 LEK per person or a taxi for around 400-500 LEK.

Day 4-6: Berat to Himare and Albanian Riviera (3 nights in Himare) 

• Driving distance: 155 KM
• Driving time: 3.5 HRS

The drive from Berat to Himare ( Himarë ) is going to be long but very scenic. You will be driving along the Albanian Riviera coast which starts from Vlore-the third biggest town in Albania and stretches all the way to Saranda.

Be ready for the breathtaking views opening up while traversing the dramatic Llogara Pass serpentine road. Crossing Llogara National Park and Ceraunian Mountains, this adventurous road winds up to 1027 meters above sea level and drops down parallel to the shores of the shimmering Ionian sea. 

On the way make sure to stop at Llogara Pass panoramic viewpoint to admire the scenery. The wind at this point is quite wild, so if you, like me, are planning on flying a drone, be careful. 

Albanian Riviera is an up-and-coming seaside destination currently mostly frequented by locals and a number of foreign visitors. Featuring a kaleidoscope of blue waters of the Ionian sea, and pebbly beaches backed by endless rolling hills, Albania Riviera is a sunseeker’s playground. 

While the main beaches in Vlore, Saranda, Dhermi, and Himare are covered with sunbeds and umbrellas during the peak season (July and August), you will still find serenity at many hidden coves dotted along the Albanian Riviera. For that exact reason, I strongly suggest having your own vehicle so you have the flexibility to stop anywhere along the road and stroll down to one of the hidden bays. 

Base yourself in Himare

I recommend Himare ( Himarë ) as a base in Albanian Riviera. Ideally, if you are driving, your best bet is to pick accommodation in the atmospheric old town ( Himare Fshat ) perched atop the hill. You will be treated to gorgeous views and silence at night as opposed to the busy and noisy new part of Himara. 

The historic castle ruins in old Himare are well worth a visit, especially for wonderful unobstructed sunset views over the Ionian coast. 

Moreover, Himare is strategically situated providing convenient access to the best Albanian Riviera beaches located North and South of the town.

Where to stay in Himare

• Luxury: Prado Luxury Hotel -located a few steps away from Livahdi beach this hotel offers modern rooms (wooden floors, marble bathrooms), a private beach area, a gym, and a seasonal pool area, breakfast and private free parking are included. Check for prices and availability here.
• Mid-range apartments: Amphora Guesthouse &Apartments – self-contained apartments and rooms in old Himare. Some of the units are located in ancient buildings, while some are in new ones. We stayed in one of the new-building apartments which had a fantastic terrace with sea views. The guesthouse has a lovely terrace cafeteria where you can have homemade cake and coffee. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range hotel:   Sonar en el Mar – minimalist style modern bright rooms feature balconies with sea views, only a 1-minute walk from the main Spille beach in Himare town, exceptional breakfast, and free parking are included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Filikur Hostel Himare – a 10-bed and 4-bed mixed dorm located 200 m from Potam beach, has a garden, shared kitchen, and private free parking. Click here for prices and availability.

Which beaches in Albanian Riviera should you visit and which skip?

Gjipe beach.

Located 20-minute drive North of Himare town, followed by a short hike down the dirt track with fantastic coastal views, secluded Gjipe beach lays sandwiched between the steep rocks. Although not as secret and not completely wild as it used to be some years ago, Gjipe is still one of the most beautiful beaches on the Riviera.

From the parking lot paid at 300 LEK for a day, reaching the beach requires a relatively easy 20 to 30min trekking through a sandy and rocky path. Taking into account the effort required to reach the beach, there won’t be too many people visiting it. A campsite and three rustic bars selling refreshments and snacks are also available.

Make sure to wander into Gjipe Canyon which cuts inland a few hundred meters from the beach. 

Location: when driving along SH8 coastal road look for the turn to Manastiri i Shën Theodhorit (St Theodor’s Monastery). You can also put “Gjipe beach parking” on Google Maps to direct you. 

Livadhi beach

Just a short 5-minute drive down the hill from old Himare, or North of new Himare, Livadhi beach is quick to access and easy to park (for free). Part of the beach is covered in umbrellas but it still has plenty of space to stretch your towel on the pebbly shores. You can also find a couple of nice beach bars on the right side of the beach to sip a cocktail or have a snack. 

Potam beach

Located at the south end of new Himare town, this pebbly beach is easier to park at than the main Himare beach and also has refreshing cold water streams making it a perfect cool down spot during a hot summer day. 

Driving down south from Himare towards Sarande in around 30 minutes you will reach the longest beach on the Albanian Riviera called Borsh. You can find some completely empty spots even during the busy months.

For the most remote locations, skip the busy stretch of the beach, and walk all the way southwards. Look up Ohana’s Restaurant on Google maps. It is a wonderful place to spend a day or even catch the sunset. The rustic beach bar/restaurant just above the shore offers a shaded retreat and has Sri Lankan café vibes.

Note that Borsh beach is around 7km long. Unless you are up for a long stroll along the coast, you might want to park at the south end of Borsh town.

Other beaches on the way to Borsh

Llamani beach -beautiful cove between dramatic cliffs, however, fully covered with umbrellas. We looked at it from above, expressed our regrets about overdevelopment, and moved on.

Porto Palermo- located between Himare and Qeparo town, it is an unspoiled bay mostly known for Ali Pasha’s Porto Palermo Fort. The area lacks facilities, therefore, you can find a few small coves along the SH8 road completely empty and great for a short swim break in crystal clear waters.

Qeparo beach- a narrow strip of pebbly shore in front of a new part of Qeparo town. The bay is surrounded by rolling hills and the beach is facing west, making it a good spot not only for swimming and tanning but also for sunset views. Since it is located close to the new town, there are lots of bars, small restaurants, and supermarkets just a short walk away.

Visit quaint mountain towns Dhermi and Vuno

Dhermi town.

White-washed Greek-style houses characterize polished and pretty Dhermi ( Dhërmi ) old town. Situated atop the hill, Dhermi, is a little bit more posh compared to Himare when it comes to accommodation.

Nonetheless, since Dhermi is located only a 25-30 minutes drive from Himare, it is worth visiting for a few hours to explore its narrow steep, as common in this area, streets.

Only 10 minute drive North of Himare, and South of Dhermi, Vuno is a tiny atmospheric mountain village. Its steep cobblestone streets are still walked by donkeys like back in the olden days. It seems that the time in Vuno stands still. The only new era sign is a few satellite plates sticking out of the balconies.

Even a small section of stone pavement on the main SH8 coastal road remained untouched. While driving, the ride gets really bumpy and makes you slow down and pay attention to the town.

Once in Vuno, make sure to stop for a quick lunch at the outdoor bar/cafeteria Lula located just on the side of SH8 road. They serve delicious byrek and petula (a huge pancake served with cheese and jam on the side). 

Skip Dhermi beach and Drimadhes beach

Advertised as some of the best beaches on the Albanian Riviera, both Dhermi and Drimadhes beaches were a disappointment. Covered by hundreds of umbrellas (pricey by the way) and backed by some random ugly buildings and unfinished construction sites, load crowd, and even trash, both had everything that I don’t like about the beach. We stopped at both no more than 2 minutes each before we left.

The surrounding nature is unquestionably beautiful, and it is heartbreaking to see the area being “uglified” with all those terrible and useless developments (likely some horrific big hotels).  If you read reviews on Google, you will find more people confirming the above.

Skip Saranda

Saranda (Sarandë) is a hotspot in Albanian Riviera. It is the busiest town on the coast and a place where the majority of local and foreign holidaymakers head to. If you are not a fan of high-rise buildings, traffic, and a loud party scene, I suggest skipping Saranda. I have done my research and seen enough images and reviews that convinced me not to waste my time on this part of the Albanian Riviera. Even my host in Himare advised against staying in Saranda. 

Nonetheless, there are a few well-rated beaches in the area like Ksamil , for example, which might be nice to visit off-season. 

Getting to Himare from Berat by bus: this might be a less straightforward and long journey as it requires multiple transfers. From Berat, you can catch a bus to Fier or Vlore (Vlorë), and then from there another bus to Himare. The guaranteed way, though, with many connections available throughout the day, would be going back to the Tirana bus terminal and taking another bus directly to Himare. Tirana to Himare bus costs around 1000 LEK and takes 4 hours.

DAY 7-8: Himare to Gjirokaster (2 nights in Gjirokaster)

• Driving distance: 100 KM
• Driving time: 2 HRS 15 MIN

Drive from Himare to Gjirokaster ( Gjirokastër  ) continues south along the scenic coastal road before you turn into equally stunning hinterlands. On our way to Gjirokaster, we made one more stop at Borsh beach to enjoy a couple of hours by the sea. 

If you are interested in seeing more castles, make a pit stop at the 17th-century Porto Palermo fortress also known as Ali Pasha Castle located on a small island (accessible through a land strip). 

Gjirokaster-the stone city of Albania

Characterized by rooftops made of stone plates, Gjirokaster is a distinctive Ottoman-era town that landed on the Unesco heritage sites list in 2005. From the moment you reach Gjirokaster, you will be swept away by the old-world charm pulsating through narrow cobblestone streets, frozen in time age-old buildings and local people conducting a slow-paced mountain village lifestyle. 

The landscape of Gjirokaster is dominated by a well-preserved 4th-century castle overlooking Drino valley. Meanwhile, the old town seamlessly merges with the new modern part. 

Strategically built on the slopes of mount Gjere ( mali i Gjere ), the distinctive fortified houses of Gjirokaster are interconnected by a maze of narrow steep cobbled streets. Be ready for a good leg day exploring this magical historical place of Albania.

The central nerve of the old town is a bustling New Bazaar area with all the coffee shops and souvenir stalls. Although it is an intersection of only 4 streets, there are lots of other nearly vertical pathways to take, including the ones leading all the way up to Gjirokaster Castle- a must-visit place for history and fantastic views. 

If you are staying for a couple of nights, it is also worth taking a short hike to Ali Pasha bridge -an elegant arched aqueduct built over the ravine. It takes only 40 min of hiking up the steep streets and then descending the rocky path down to the bridge. Make sure to wear sturdy shoes, flip flops are not recommended. 

Where to eat in Gjirokaster

• Taverna Tradicionale Kardhashi – located on the slopes of the castle, a traditional Albanian food restaurant run by laud and energetic family serving fantastic stuffed eggplants and other delicious specialties.
• Antigonea Furre Buki Pasteceri in the new town of Gjirokaster is a fantastic local bakery where you can buy huge delicious byreks for no more than 80 LEK per piece, and some of the best ice cream in town for only 50 LEK per scoop. 

Where to stay in Gjirokaster

I would strongly suggest staying up in the old town of Gjirokaster for the atmosphere and to reduce the number of steep hills which you would still have to tackle even inside the old town.

• High-end: Kerculla Resort – perched atop the mountain this resort boasts fantastic panoramic views, offers a huge private pool (quite handy during hot summer days), and beautiful traditionally decorated rooms, exceptional breakfast is also included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Boutique hotel: Boutique Hotel Musee – located in the heart of old town, next to Skenduli house, this traditional house converted into a hotel offers rooms set up in traditional Gjirokaster style, a cozy terrace, an exceptional breakfast, and free parking. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range homestay: Konaku Guest House – I stayed here-unique rooms in a classic fortified Gjirokaster house, one of the best terraces in town with the castle view, steps away from the bazaar, close to the castle, free parking, and breakfast included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Stone rooms 1850 – located in one of the fortified 200 years old houses, simple but beautifully arranged rooms, property located a bit higher up above the castle, means dome extra climbing up and down. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Gjirokaster from Himare by bus: you must first take a bus running to Sarande and then catch another bus going to Gjirokaster. Expect the journey with bus changes to last at least 3 hours. Thus, start early. The approximate trip price could be around 600-900 LEK.

Day 9: Gjirokaster-Permet (overnight in Permet) 

• Driving distance: 60 KM
• Driving time: 1 HR

Our journey continues to less explored parts of Albania. Permet ( Përmet ) is locally known and most visited for the Benja ( Bënja) thermal baths, beautiful arched Ottoman era Kadiut bridge, mysterious Langarica Canyon, and white water rafting in Vjosa ( Vjosë) river. 

Thermal baths, Kadiut bridge, and Langarica Canyon

Sulfur springs are spread all across Langarica canyon which is located only 20 minutes drive from Permet town. Locals believe in thermal waters’ healing power. There are 6 thermal pools that can be used free of charge. Different pool when used in moderation brings different benefits to health. Springs can improve skin conditions, stomach, and kidney diseases.

You can see locals spending hours in the thermal baths. However, our host advised us to stay only 10 to 15 minutes in one pool and then take 2 hours break before repeating the procedure.

When overused, sulfur springs can have a negative impact on your health. 

Dating back to the 18th century, still, in perfect condition, Kadiut Bridge is located in the same place as the baths. It is definitely beloved by photographers due to its elegant shape and mountain backdrop. 

Top tip: if you want to take a dip in thermal baths, make sure to arrive early in the morning before the crowds. It gets really busy during the day, especially in summer. Note that thermal waters are not as hot as you would expect. Thus, if visited in winter, they won’t be hot enough to keep you warm from the cold. 

My favorite part of our time in Permet, and one of the highlights of this Albania trip, was exploring Langarica Canyon . Not many ventures that far but those who do will be rewarded with an avatar movie scene-worthy place.

Surrounded by high limestone cliffs, the narrow canyon is reachable within only 200 meters walk following the gorge and the river after the Kadiut bridge. Unlike in Gjipe, there is water inside the Langarica Canyon. Bring water shoes as you will not only have to cross the river a few times before reaching the canyon but also if you want to continue further, the only way to walk is through the muddy stream. 

During the rainy season, the water can reach waist up. If you are up for an adventure, you can follow the canyon for 4 kilometers one way until you reach a dead end. 

Be careful when walking as the ground under the water is very slippery. Also, due to the muddiness, holes, and rocks are invisible, so take one step at a time. It would also be a good idea to take a waterproof back if you have camera equipment.

Permet town

The town of Permet is situated on the banks of the Vjosa river and is not specifically impressive in terms of architecture. Nonetheless, this small town is very well looked after, including the new road that leads to it.

The main attraction in Permet is the 40 meters height rock. You can climb the metal staircase and see the town of Permet from above. The best time to do so is during sunset. 

Where to eat in Permet

• Restaurant Familjari – a family-run restaurant that serves slow food and is probably the second best or the same level as Lili’s in Berat. Also, the lady host is super funny- she told us to stop ordering the food after our third dish request as it would have been simply impossible to finish everything for 2 people (portions are huge). Try stuffed eggplant (classic) and cottage cheese with bell peppers dish, finish up with gliko -traditional one spoon sweet.

Where to stay in Permet:

• High-end: Villa Permet -spacious rooms with wooden furniture and floors, bar, restaurant, garden, fabulous breakfast, and private parking included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: The Mozaik House – fabulous homestay with exceptional hospitality, beautiful air-conditioned rooms, generous and tasty breakfast, and a garden. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Traditional Guest House Permet -perched on the hill in beautiful natural surroundings, this accommodation offers nicely decorated traditional rooms, a restaurant, a garden, and a terrace, some rooms have a private kitchen. Click here for prices and availability.

DAY 10-11:Permet- Korca (2 nights in Korca) 

• Driving distance: 130 KM
• Driving time: 3 HRS

Wishing to have had more time in beautiful Permet, we continued our journey further to the East of Albania. The final destination of this leg of the journey is Korca (Korçë) – the town of serenades, as locals call it. 

It takes around 3 hours of driving to reach Korca from Permet, passing close by to the Greek border. However, the drive is probably the most scenic of all 2-week Albania road trips .

If you have read online about the terribly bad road condition on the SH75 section along the Vjosa river between Permet and Leskovik village, disregard it.

The road has been fixed in 2021, and the panoramic drive is now buttery smooth. Although it does have lots of twists and turns around the face of the mountain, the road is brand new and a joy to drive. Take your time when driving and make sure to stop at the scenic point at Vjose river bend. 

The remaining section from Leskovik to Korca, however, is a bumpy slow drive through an old road with many potholes. This explains the amount of time needed to reach Korca.

Nonetheless, there are barely any cars passing by, thus it is not a complicated drive. The only thing that could be a bit of a challenge is if you have a small-engine car. My rental car was a 1.5 L 2008 ford that struggled a little on steeper turns, but it made it all the way without any problem. 

Important tip:   make sure to top up your gas tank when leaving Permet. Unlike everywhere else on this road trip, there were not too many petrol pumps in this particular section. You should also be able to refill in Leskovik town as well but don’t bet on driving with the empty tank as it can be a while before the next station appears. 

Korca- the city of serenades and little Paris of Albania

Korca town is located in the southeastern corner of Albania close to the Greece and Macedonia borders. Surrounded by Morava mountains, the town dates back to the 13th century. Over the years it carried the influence of Greeks and Aromanians and eventually evolved into a dynamic city enriched with important cultural and historic sites, and also significant cuisine elements. 

Although it doesn’t fall on a classic Albania travel route and is often overlooked by foreign visitors, Korca will undoubtedly offer you an authentic experience. Recognized as an unofficial cultural capital of Albania, Korca has several world-class museums, significant architectural monuments and historic districts, cultural festivals, and events happening on a regular basis. 

Korca, also nicknamed as Paris of Albania , (although it is quite a bold statement) does have a mix of distinctive architecture. It is not as unified or following one style as in Ottoman towns Berat and Gjirokaster, but rather a mix of buildings from different eras-old Ottoman houses, Greek-influenced structures, and more recent bizarre modern communism period apartment blocks.

The town is very walkable, lively, and filled with lots of green spaces, and as usual in Albania-coffee shops and bars. The trendiest bar scene can be experienced in the Old Bazaar area Pazari I Vjeter ( Pazari i Vjetër) . 

Top things to do in Korca

• The most notable landmark in town is the biggest in Albania Orthodox Resurrection of Christ Church located strategically in the heart of Korca. 
• For panoramic 360 degrees views over the town, head to the RED viewing tower. Admission is 50 LEK. 
• Visit the impressive National Museum of Medieval Art showcasing a collection of over 7000 Orthodox icons crafted from wood, metal, and stone and decorated with intricate details. To me, Orthodox medieval art had always been some of the most impressive, and seeing such a collection in one place has its “waw” effect.

Places to eat in Korca

• Traditional Byreks- almost unnoticeable eatery selling freshly baked delicious byreks over the counter for takeaway or eat at a table outside. Located in Old Bazaar next to Hani I Pazarit hotel.
• Find Four- recommended by many blogs, it is a nice trendy multi-level restaurant with terrace and balcony seating, serving a variety of food, including lakror (typical for Korca, but made seasonally, layered byrek type of pastry, available in winter, as the waiter explained)

Where to stay in Korca

• Luxury & Boutique: Hani I Pazarit Boutique Hotel – located in Old Bazaar, boutique hotel in a historical building featuring a beautiful courtyard, and characteristic luxurious rooms. Click here for prices and availability.
• High-end: IN Gallery & Spa – located in front of the Cathedral, the hotel itself is an experience, featuring not only tasteful and unique interior design, but also a wellness and spa center, an exquisite rooftop restaurant, and providing free bicycles which are great for touring around Korca. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Villa Domenico -located in Old Bazaar in a traditional Ottoman-style building, this cozy hotel features tastefully decorated rooms with wooden floors and brick walls, has a lounge area, restaurant and bar, free parking, and delicious breakfast are included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Petro’s Apartment – we stayed here- a cozy modern apartment, more like a mini hotel, with a kitchenette for coffee and tea, fantastic hosts are very responsive and ready to accommodate, and the place has some of the food basics like milk, dry bread, cookies, tea, and coffee, as well as a handful of fruits ready for your arrival. Click here for prices and availability.

How to get to Korca from Permet (or Gjirokaster) by bus

There is once a day bus running from Gjirokaster via Permet to Korca. The bus in Gjirokaster departs at 6 AM and stops at Permet at 7 AM, then reaches Korca at 10:20 AM. To make sure the timetable is accurate, the best is to ask locals, ideally at the bus station for exact departure times. I used th e Gjirafa website as a reference for this information, however, it is not always accurate. Expect to pay around 1000 -1300 LEK for the journey.

DAY 12-13: Korca-Pogradec-Lin (2 nights in Lin) 

• Driving time: 1 HR 20 MIN

Spend a remaining couple of days by the beautiful Ohrid Lake shared between Albania and Macedonia. On the Albanian side, the biggest town on the shores of Ohrid lake is Pogradec. It is often chosen as a base for the Eastern Albania vacation due to its many amenities, hotels, restaurants, and a large public beach. 

However, when looking for our accommodation at lake Ohrid, I pulled a wild card and picked a homestay in the nearby Lin. A tiny village of Lin is situated on the small peninsula on the north side of Ohrid lake.

It was probably one of the best and most unique experiences in Albania. Surprisingly there were quite a few foreign tourists who also managed to discover this little gem. 2 days were spent laying on the sunbed and swimming in the refreshing waters of the lake Ohrid, hiking up the peninsula for the sunset and eating as much byreks as our stomachs could handle. 

If you are up for more action or sightseeing, you can always head to Pogradec, rent a bicycle, and cycle around the lake (even cross the Macedonian border if your passport allows visa-free entrance). 

Where to eat in Lin

• Make a pit stop for lunch in Tushemisht: on the way from Korca to Lin, stop for lunch in Tushemisht-a small village on the east side of Pogradec. Tushemisht seemed like a delightful small holiday town where locals spend their summer days by the lake. The village has many fish restaurants serving koran- a local fish common to the area which can be ordered grilled or as casserole (baked in a sauce).  Shtëpia e Vjeter was our pick in Tushemisht and it didn’t disappoint. The food was great served at the terrace by the water. The restaurant also has private parking which is useful in the tiny old town.
• Restaurant Leza – this restaurant has a large terrace with magnificent lake Ohrid views stretching as far as Macedonia shores. The menu is not huge but has great local specialties, including fresh grilled fish. Come for dinner during sunset- it is simply amazing.

Where to stay in Lin

• Mid-range: Guest House Lin – guesthouse offers wonderful rooms, some with dreamy balconies overlooking the water, a beautiful waterfront garden with sun lounges, and direct access to the Lake. It is quieter than its neighboring guesthouses, and probably one of the best choices for your stay in Lin. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Rosa B&B – I stayed here-charming waterfront guesthouse that feels like you are at grandma’s, run by a very welcoming and hardworking family. The terrace in front of the lake is lovely, but the sunbeds are limited and the guesthouse gets quite full during peak season. Breakfast is included, and homemade food on request is offered. We spent all day there without leaving the place. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Lin from Korca by bus

There is no direct bus to Lin village from Korce. First, you would have to embark on the bus going to Pogradec and from there catch a taxi or a minibus to Lin. Allow a couple of hours to reach Lin with changes. Journey from Korca to Pogradec should take just over an hour.

DAY 14: Lin-Tirana (optional night in Tirana) 

• Driving distance: 120 KM
• Driving time: 2 HRS 10 MIN

Depending on your departure from Tirana schedule, or if you continue your Albanian trip, or maybe heading to Montenegro or another Balkan country, you can spend one more day in Tirana and catch up with activities you might not have time to finish on your first day. 

To us, it was the end of a two-week (15 days) road trip in Albania. However, if you have more time in Albania, below is an extended route that focuses on the Northern side of the country and includes the epic Valbona to Theth hike in the beautiful Albanian Alps. 

Extended 1-Week Albania Itinerary 

Adding an extra week to your Albanian trip will cover almost all the highlights of the country. Continue your trip in Albania with this suggested 1-week route in Central and North Albania. 

For this route, you do not need to have a car. You can get around using public transport. In fact, if you are planning on doing the Valbona Theth hike, it is even more convenient to use public transport than driving, as you can avoid complicated logistics of where to leave your car and how to pick it up after the hike. 

• More details on Valbona-Teth hike logistics are below , and you can also read the complete guide here .

Day 15: Tirana-Shkoder (overnight in Shkoder) 

• Driving distance: 90 KM
• Driving time: 2.5 HRS

Shkoder ( Shkodër )  is located in Northern Albania at the banks of Balkan’s largest Lake Skadar, part of which is shared with Montenegro. 

Shkoder usually serves as a jump-off point for Albanian Alps treks, including the well-known Valbona-Teth hike . 

Nonetheless, there are some fantastic things to do in Shkoder before embarking further North into Albanian Alps. I recommend spending a couple of nights in Shkoder to enjoy its laid-back atmosphere. 

Top things to do in Shkoder

As soon as you are in Shkoder town you will immediately notice that people here ride bicycles more than in any other place in Albania (apart from Korca probably). 

It is a great idea to rent a bicycle and explore not only Shkoders’ cozy old town with an old bazaar area but also head south towards Lake Skadar and ride along its shores. Head toward Shiroka village and you will find some atmospheric waterfront restaurants where you can have romantic dinner by the lake. 

Also, don’t miss Rozafa castle located on the way-only 4 kilometers south of the old town of Shkoder. Rozafa dating back to the 9th century BC is a beautiful historical fortification set in a perfect location allowing to watch magical sunsets. 

Places to stay in Shkoder

• Boutique: Hotel Tradita – set in Ottoman style old house, traditionally decorated with Albanian textiles, this boutique hotel is also offering local Albanian specialties at their restaurant, photography museum, and souvenir shops. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Hotel-Legjenda – we stayed here-an artsy vibe chalets with exceptional quiet surroundings, garden, pool, ground for campervans, walking distance to Rozafa Castle, 4km from Shkoder city center, the hotel also allows you to keep your big luggage for Valbona Theth hike for an extra 1 EUR fee. Click here for prices and availability.
• Apartment: All Seasons Apartment – we stayed here- centrally located in a quiet street self-contained 2 bedroom apartment with all amenities, including a washing machine, and Italian coffee machine. A fantastic host is ready to help you out any time you have a request. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: The Wanderers Hostel – a highly rated popular hostel featuring a lively courtyard, cozy 4 -bed dorms, and private ensuite rooms. Click here for prices and availability.

Where to eat in Shkoder

• Villa Bekteshi Restorant – locals love to dine here, especially for special occasions in big groups. A restaurant in a villa has tables on a couple of levels inside and in a beautiful courtyard. Food is fantastic local Albanian cuisine; rates are also great. Reservation in advance is recommended.

Getting to Shkoder from Tirana by bus

Buses from the North and South Bus Terminal in Tirana leave regularly to Shkoder. The trip takes around 2.5 hours and costs around 400 LEK.

DAY 16: Shkoder-Komani Lake Ferry- Valbona

• Shkoder to Komani Lake Ferry: distance 55 KM, minibus driving time around 2 HRS.
• Komani Lake Ferry: 3 HRS.
• Fierza to Valbone: distance 45 KM, minibus driving time around 1 HR.

Today you will be travelling north to the Albanian Alps – arguably the most beautiful part of the country. The final stop for the day is Valbona- a peaceful mountain village where you will spend a night before embarking on an epic Valbona-Theth hike.

The commute to Valbona is exciting as it involves not only travelling by scenic road but also taking the Koman ferry which passes through emerald blue Komani lake and river Drin.  Because of turquoise waters flowing through an incredibly scenic gorge, Komani is often dubbed with Norwegian fiords. 

3 hours on a boat will pass like 3 minutes while admiring the awe-inspiring scenery of Komani lake. The ferry ride finishes in Fierza village from where you will take a minibus ( furgon ) to Valbona. 

Although it may sound like a lot of logistics, don’t worry it is quite straightforward and the whole transfer from Shkoder all the way to Valbona, including ferry tickets, can be prearranged in advance.

RELATED READS: Click here to read my post with detailed instructions on how to get from Shkoder to Valbona, including taking the Komani lake ferry. 

Top tip: Komani ferry ride is quite popular, therefore, if you are travelling in summer, I strongly recommend booking everything a week or even two in advance. 

Once you reach Valbona- a scenic and very quiet Alpine village, you can enjoy a relaxed evening surrounded by breathtakingly mountain scenery. You can even hear the wolves haul far in a distance. Don’t worry though, they don’t come close to where people are. 

Where to stay in Valbona

• Mid-range: Villas Jezersca – cozy chalets with fantastic mountain views, delicious food, and amazing hospitality of the family running this accommodation. They prepared us takeaway food for the hike and dropped us closer to the trail at the end of Valbona free of charge. Click here for prices and availability.

DAY 17-18: Valbona- Theth hike and time in Theth (2 nights in Theth) 

Today is an epic day hiking from Valbona to Theth mountain village. This iconic hike in Albanian Alps follows a well-marked medium difficulty 17-kilometer hiking trail. Part of the famous Balkan trail, the route goes along the dry river bed before ascending up to the gorgeous Valbona pass.

The hike is moderate although there are enough steep sections which together with the views will surely take your breath away. Pace yourself as it will take at least 6 hours to complete the trail. 

• Read all the information you need to prepare for Valbona-Theth hike in my post . 

Theth Alpine village was my favorite compared to Valbona. Surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks, rural Theth is simply a majestic place. One of the most visited landmarks is a very pretty little church dating back to the 19th century. Visit before sunset or at sunrise for the best lightning casting over the Theth church. 

I strongly recommend spending 2 nights in Theth to have a good rest after a long leg day hiking Valbona pass. For those of you who still have some energy left, trek to Theth Blue Eye-another well-known trail in the area featuring a crystal clear water pool enclosed between the mountains. The trail is no shorter than the Valbona hike but is said to be way less demanding. 

Where to stay in Theth

• Guesthouse: Guest House Bec Villi – lovely traditional village guesthouse featuring a beautiful garden, serving delicious homemade food. They also can help organize minibus back to Shkoder. For prices and availability click here.
• Mid-range: Guest House Marashi – a bit more upscale instagramer-loved stylish wooden rooms, some of which have bathtubs inside the room overlooking the mountains and/or lovely private terraces. Great homemade food is also served at this guesthouse. For prices and availability click here.

Day 19: Theth – Shkoder (1 night in Shkoder) 

• Driving distance: 80 KM

Getting back from Theth to Shkoder by minibus

The ride in a minibus from Theth to Shkoder is around 3 hours and is also extremely scenic.  

In order to catch a minibus from Theth to Shkoder, you have to request a homestay to prebook it for you. Usually, minibusses have set departure times during the first half of the day. Schedules are not written in stone, so the best is to inquire as soon as you arrive at Theth after the Valbona Pass hike. 

We booked our seats in a furgon a night before, however, it was only the start of the season.

Message your hotel beforehand to find out and try reserving earlier. 

When in Shkoder, you can rest up and catch up with the activities you may haven’t had time to complete on the first day. 

Also, if you are traveling further to Montenegro, as I did on my first trip to Albania, Shkoder is a great place to catch a bus to Podgorica or another town. 

DAY 20: Shkoder-Kruja (overnight in Kruje) 

• Driving distance: 75 KM
• Driving time: 1 HRS 50 MIN

For the last bit of the Albania trip, I recommend visiting Kruja (Krujë)- the first capital of Albania . 

Kruja is a medieval historic town and possibly one of the most well know because it used to be the home and base of operations for a national hero Skanderbeg who fought and won against the Ottomans back in the 15th century. 

Located at the base of Kruja mountain, this small and charming ages-old town is only 1 hour away from Tirana. Due to such close proximity to the current capital, Kruja is usually visited on a day trip.

However, it is a much better choice is to stay there overnight. Pick accommodation inside Kruja castle walls to have the most authentic experience. 

The main attractions in Kruje are the 5th-century castle, where you can also find an informative Skanderbeg museum, and the 400-years old Bazaar ( the Bazaar of Derexhik ). 

Stroll the narrow pedestrian cobbled streets along the many authentic stalls in the old bazaar, interact with friendly locals, and as usual enjoy Albanian homemade food and coffee. 

Where to eat in Kruja:

• Bardhi restaurant is set atop the hill within the castle ruins offering fantastic panoramic views stretching as far as the Adriatic sea. The food served is a traditional Albanian and European mix. 
• Restaurant Alba is another great alternative also within castle walls and with great views. This restaurant is serving traditional food and dishes of Mediterranean cuisine made of organic homegrown produce. 

Where to stay in Kruja

• High-end: Hotel Panorama Kruje – centrally located, with great views of the castle, this hotel also offers a private pool, a huge common terrace, underground parking, restaurant, and bar. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Rooms EMILIANO – this homestay offers a unique experience of staying within the castle ruins, homemade food, and a fantastic terrace with a view where you can have breakfast and dinner. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Kruja from Shkoder by bus

Regular hourly buses from Shkoder to Tirana also stop in the new part of Kruje (Fushë-Krujë). The bus stop location is here . The ticket price is around 300 LEK. You must inform the driver to let you out in Fushe-Kruja. You will have to catch a minibus from the new part to the old part of Kruje from the George W Bush statue. The ticket price is around 100 LEK.

DAY 21: Kruje-Tirana

• Driving distance: 30 KM
• Driving time: 40 MIN

This is the last day of your Albanian journey. Depending on your departure time, you can still spend a few chilled hours in Tirana or head straight to the airport.

If you are not driving, you will first have to get to the South and North Bus Terminal of Tirana and then catch a taxi from there to the airport. Account for enough time to do so.

Plenty of buses and minibusses from Fushe-Kruje to Tirana leave regularly and take around 40 minutes to one hour to reach depending on the traffic. Ticket costs around 100-150 LEK.

At Tirana bus station, you can catch a cab to the airport or the Tirana city center. They are just lined up on the street. Or you can call Merr taxi to send you a driver- those guys are really good and reliable at organizing quick rides.

Alternative 2-week Albania itineraries: from Albanian Alps to Albanian Riviera and from Albanian Alps to Lake Ohrid

I have lined up different Albania itinerary suggestions for those of you who only have 2 weeks in Albania and prefer to visit:

1. The Albanian Alps and the Riviera. This itinerary excludes the eastern and most of the southern part of the country covered in my original route. In fact, if I was visiting Albania for the first time, the Albanian Alps to Albanian Riviera route is what I would have taken. It includes both Unesco towns Berat and Gjirokaster, hiking in the Albanian Alps and swimming in gorgeous Albanian Riviera beaches, as well as some time in Tirana and Shkoder.

2. The Albanian Alps and the Lake Orchid. This route excluded the seaside but adds the southern part of the country. It would be suitable for those of you who are not keen on beaches and prefer more off-the-beaten-path travel. The southeastern part of Albania is definitely still off-the tourist radar.

Since I have already written about each of the locations above, please refer to the specific place by coming back up to the post.

14 days in Albania-from Alps to Riviera itinerary

• DAY 1: Tirana-Shkoder
• DAY 2: Shkoder-Komani Lake-Valbona
• DAY 3: Valbona-Valbona Pass hike-Theth
• DAY 4: Theth
• Day 5: Theth-Shkoder
• Day 6: Shkoder- Tirana (pick up a rental car in Tirana) – Himare 
• Day 7: Himare
• Day 8: Himare (visit Borsh beach) 
• Day 9: Himare-Gjirokaster
• DAY 10: Gjirokaster- Berat
• DAY 11: Berat
• DAY 12: Berat-Kruje
• DAY 13: Kruje-Tirana
• DAY 14: Tirana (return rental car)

2 weeks in Albania- from the Alps to Lake Ohrid itinerary

• Day 6: Shkoder- Kruje
• Day 7: Kruje – Tirana (pick up a rental car in Tirana)- Berat
• Day 8: Berat 
• Day 9: Berat- Gjirokaster
• DAY 10: Gjirokaster-Korca
• DAY 11: Korca- Pogradec-Lin
• DAY 12: Lin
• DAY 13: Lin-Pogradec-Tirana

I hope this post had inspired you to visit Albania and will be helpful when planning your Albania itinerary. If you have more questions, please feel free to comment below, and I will get back to you.

Have a great journey to Albania!

More Albania Travel Resources

• Driving in Albania: everything you need to know before renting a car .
• Valbona to Theth hike in Albanian Alps- everything you need to know.
• Find the best things to do in Albania’s capital with my Tirana itinerary for 1 or 2 days.

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Hi! I am a freelance photographer & videographer as well the creator of www.theroadreel.com. Born in Lithuania, and currently residing in the UAE, I have been traveling around the globe independently for over a decade. I created The Road Reel to share my passion for travel and photography through detailed road trips and city itineraries, and hiking guides, along with regular and drone photogragraphy tips.

Albanian Road Trip: An Epic & Flexible 7-10 Day Itinerary

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Are you ready for an unforgettable adventure? Pack your bags and join us on an Albanian road trip, where breathtaking scenery, Ottoman architecture, exceptional food, and off-the-beaten-path places await.

From the stunning Albanian Alps to the turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea, our journey will take you through charming villages, ancient ruins, vibrant cities, and UNESCO sites. Get ready to taste delicious local cuisine, meet friendly locals, and discover hidden gems along the way.

In this Albania road trip planner, we’ll share the best Albanian road trip itinerary, insider tips, must-see destinations, and practical advice to help you plan your own epic adventure. Whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a first-time explorer, a road trip in Albania is an experience you won’t want to miss.

Where is Albania?

The Republic of Albania is a small, mountainous country in south-eastern Europe’s Balkan Peninsula, bordering the Adriatic Sea to the west, the Ionian Sea to the south, and with land borders to Greece in the south, the former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia in the east and Montenegro and Kosovo in the north.

Albania’s landscape ranges from the snow-capped mountains in the Albanian Alps and the Korab, Skanderbeg, Pindus, and Ceraunian Mountains, to the almost tropical hot and sunny beaches and turquoise waters of the Mediterranean.

Is It Safe to Visit Albania?

Albania is geographically in Europe but not in the EU, and a bit off the beaten track. This makes the country a great place for adventure and you’ll still find a real sense of wilderness.

Unfortunately, Albania has gained a somewhat unfair reputation as a crime-ridden nation but in fact, it’s relatively safe to travel in Albania. There are mild threats, but nothing that should stop you from visiting and having an amazing time.

Do pay attention to personal and vehicle security and avoid any political rallies or demonstrations, which can flare up quickly. Crime and violence do occur in some areas but are not typically targeted at foreigners.

We felt very safe for the whole three months we spent in Albania.

Whether you’re traveling to Albania in a car, motorcycle, or campervan from Europe, or picking up a hire car, self-driving is absolutely the best way to explore this fantastic Balkans country.

You can stop whenever you want, try new activities, visit places you see along the route, and have the freedom to change plans at the last minute.

Fly into Albania’s Tirana International Airport (Nënë Tereza) . With direct flights from Europe, it’s easy to connect with the States, Middle East and the UK. We recommend booking through Skyscanner for live deals and the best prices.

Are you planning to rent a car in Albania? As one of the largest car hire aggregator companies in the world, we recommend Rentalcars.com because they have massive purchasing power which enables them to secure the best rental car prices, which benefits you when you’re planning a road trip.

For a real adventure, hire a motorhome or campervan in Albania. We recommend AutoEurope for their large range of fully equipped vehicles, competitive pricing and great customer service. Use the Park4Night app to find overnight spots and campsites along the route.

Best Time for Visiting Albania

Spring in Albania lasts from mid-February until mid-April. The early spring weather is mostly rainy and cold, with temperatures starting to warm up from mid-March. The wildflowers begin to bloom and the mountain landscape comes alive, making late spring one of the best times to visit Albania.

Summer months in Albania often bring heat and drought. During the summer the sky is usually very clear and rain is pretty much non-existent except for some mountain areas, where the average July temperatures are a pleasant 23ºC / 73ºF.

Autumn in Albania is quite short and begins in late October, lasting little over a month. It often rains in the fall, but it’s not cold, with the average temperature being a mild 18ºC / 64ºF. The fall colors will be spectacular and Albania’s autumn fruits and nuts are at their peak during this harvesting season.  

Winters in Albania are seriously cold and wet. It snows and rains right across the country and the coldest month of January only manages average daily temperatures of 7ºC / 45ºF at sea level and between minus 12-20ºC / 10 to -4ºF in the mountains! Winter is definitely not our favorite time to road trip Albania!

Road Trip Albania Map & Route

This 7 to 10 day road trip from Tirana hits all the highlights, with charming towns and cities, communist and Ottoman history, castles and palaces, and natural wonders on the itinerary.

This Albanian itinerary will easily stretch to two weeks if you prefer to slow travel and take in more sights as you go. Why not spend longer in your favorite places, and check the interactive map for attractions and landmarks nearby? 

• Get the Travel Guides
• Bradt Albania Travel Guide
• Lonely Planet Western Balkans: Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and Slovenia
• The Ultimate Guide to Albania Travel: 2023 Update
• One Week Albania Itinerary

Tirana – Durrës – Berat – Vlorë – Porto Palermo – Sarandë – Ksamil – Muzinë – Përmet – Pogradec – Kruje* – Theth* – Shkodër*

*optional stops on the 10 day itinerary

• Distance: 683 miles / 1099km
• Duration: 7-10 days
• Drive Time: 21 hours

How to use this map – Use your fingers (or computer mouse) to zoom in and out. Click or touch the icons to get more info about a place, and click the arrow in the box top left to open the index. To add to your own Google Maps account, click the star next to the title of the map.

Albania Road Trip Itinerary

Day 1: tirana to durrës.

Tirana   is the capital of Albania, a city known for its Ottoman, Fascist, and Soviet-era architecture, recent communist history, and lively social scene, and is the perfect starting point for your Albania road trip itinerary.

It is best to start your visit to Tirana in Skanderbeg Square. You can walk here to the National History Museum, Et’hem Bey Mosque, and Bunk’Art 2 Museum . The latter is a museum housed in a former nuclear bunker and offers a fascinating insight into Albania’s communist past. 

From the main square, you can also see the clock tower and the statue of Albania’s national hero, Skanderbeg, a medieval Albanian feudal lord and military commander who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in 1450, which made him a savior in the Western world.

Visit the Enver Hoxha Pyramid . This pyramid-shaped building was built as a mausoleum for Albania’s former communist leader, Enver Hoxha. It currently serves as a cultural center and popular tourist attraction.

Go shopping at the Pazari I Ri, Tirana’s primary market. Here you can find everything from fresh produce to crafts and souvenirs.

Take a cable car to Mount Dajti . It offers stunning views of Tirana and the surrounding countryside. Enjoy lunch on the edge of Dajti Mountain at Restaurant Ballkoni Dajtit which offers superb food, excellent service, and exceptional views at over 3,280 feet / 1,000 meters above sea level.

Less than two hours south of Shkodër is Durrës , a coastal city known for its beautiful beaches, historic landmarks, and lively atmosphere. 

First on your list of places to explore should be the Durrës Amphitheater . This historical landmark dates back to the 2nd century CE and is one of the largest theaters in the Balkans, with 20,000 seats.

The impressive 5th century Venetian Tower of Durrës Castle is near the theatre. This historic fortress is a great place to explore and offers beautiful views of the city and the sea.

Follow it up with a visit to the Archaeological Museum , home to a collection of artifacts from the ancient city of Dyrrhachium, including pottery, jewelry, and statues.

Enjoy the seaside promenade in Durrës, a popular place to walk, jog, or bike. Or relax on the beach for an hour or two. Durrës Beach extends over six miles and boasts soft sand and crystal-clear waters. 

Treat yourself to dinner at Cosmo Restaurant or Restaurant Arberia for great beach views.

Durrës is known for its cultural events, including the Durrës International Film Summer Festival , which takes place every August – it’s worth planning to be in Durrës for the festival if you’re traveling in summer.

RELATED POST: Things to Do in Albania: 18 Amazing Highlights

• Where to Stay in Durrës

Upmarket: Hotel Villa Pascucci – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: Hotel Kloest – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Old Town Villa – Booking.com | Agoda

Make sure you have travel insurance you can trust when visiting Albania . We recommend True Traveller for their 5-star TrustPilot reviews, variety of cover options, best activities cover as standard, great prices, and excellent service.

Day 2: Durrës to Vlorë

Berat is a historic UNESCO World Heritage Site city 60 miles south of Durrës, known as the ‘Town of a Thousand Windows’.

Explore the Mangalem and Gorica neighborhoods in Berat on either side of the Osum River. They are known for their historic architecture, narrow streets, and colorful houses, giving rise to the town’s nickname.

Go to the National Ethnographic Museum located in the historic Mangalem neighborhood to learn about the traditional way of life in the region, including traditional clothing, tools, and household items.

Visit Berat Castle , a historic fortress on a hill in the city’s center. It dates to the 4th century and offers beautiful city and countryside views. Explore the Onufri Museum inside the Berat Castle. It houses a collection of icons and religious artifacts dating from the 1500s.

Afterward, walk along the Osum River to see the 18th century Gorica Bridge, a historic Ottoman-era bridge in the Gorica neighborhood that offers beautiful views of the river and the city.

En route to Vlorë, make a stop to see the ancient Apollonia Archaeological Park . Apollonia was an ancient Illyrian city set on rolling hills on the right bank of the Vjosa River. Surrounded by olive groves, the highlights in this off-the-beaten-path place include the theatre and the elegant pillars of the restored facade of the city’s 2nd century BCE administrative center.

Once in Vlorë , visit the Independence Museum. This historical landmark commemorates Albania’s independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1912. Here you can learn about the country’s struggle for freedom and the prominent figures that played a vital role in the liberation.

Afterward, head to Muradie Mosque . This ancient mosque, built in the 1500s, is an important religious site for Muslims and non-Muslims and features intricate design and glorious architecture.

Another notable landmark is the 4th century Kanina Castle . Visit this historic site on the outskirts of Vlorë to learn about its vital role in the country’s history and enjoy the panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.

Back in Vlorë, take a walk along the promenade that stretches along the coastline or enjoy the sunset at one of the famous beaches, like Radhima Beach, Orikum Beach, or Dhërmi Beach.

Visit Flag Square, a large square in the center of Vlorë that houses a giant flagpole with the Albanian flag. It’s a popular spot for taking pictures and watching the sunset.

Afterward, dine at Te Fabio or Les Amis Restaurant for the best coast views.

RELATED POST: Beautiful Albania: 16 Most Scenic Places to Visit

• Where to Stay in Vlorë

Upmarket: Hotel Aross – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: Mazarine Hotel – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Maxi Room – Booking.com | Agoda

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Day 3: vlorë to sarandë , porto palermo.

Drive to  Porto Palermo  via the Llogara Pass, a famous Albania coastal road that connects the Dukat Valley in the north with the Albanian Riviera in southern Albania. The pass sits within the Ceraunian Mountains and runs along the Albanian coast, peaking at 3,422 feet / 1,043 meters above sea level.

A Top Gear favorite, the Llogara Pass is widely held to be the most scenic road in Albania and one of the best driving roads in Europe and is on many travelers’ bucket lists.

The SH8 road is now fully paved but requires caution as the road is narrow in places, needs constant braking and frequent gear changes due to steep ramps at 11% gradient, and there are tight hairpin bends and a lack of barriers in some areas.

Porto Palermo is a small village with a beautiful bay and a historic castle. Upon arrival, visit the 19th century Porto Palermo Castle. This historic landmark is on a small peninsula overlooking the bay. The castle was initially used as a military base during World War II. Today, it is a popular attraction and offers stunning views of the surrounding area.

You can visit two bunkers that have survived the Cold War, the Old Submarine Bunker , and the Porto Palermo Tunnel.

The beautiful beach at Porto Palermo is secluded and rocky with clear blue water. It is a great place to swim and sunbathe, and there are a few small bars and restaurants nearby where you can grab a drink or a bite to eat.

Take a boat tour from Himarë, about twelve minutes from Porto Palermo. Most tours will take you to the bay, beaches, and coves. This is a great way to see the area from a different perspective and explore some of the hidden gems only accessible by boat.

Afterward, enjoy lunch at Porto Palermo Restaurant before heading to Sarandë.

Sarandë is a beautiful coastal town an hour from Porto Palermo, known for its pebbly beaches, vibrant nightlife, and ancient archaeological sites.

Catch some afternoon sun at Mango Beach or Gjiri I Midhjeve Beach, or stroll through Sarandë town and explore the Synagogue Complex , a historic site showcasing the region’s Jewish heritage. It includes a synagogue, a Jewish cemetery, and a museum.

Next, visit the Sarandë Archaeological Museum to learn more about the region’s history and culture. It features artifacts from the ancient city of Butrint in the Butrint National Park and other nearby sites.

Another historical landmark worth visiting is the Lekursi Castle . This medieval castle is on a hill overlooking Sarandë, offering breathtaking views of the sea and the surrounding countryside.

Afterward, dine at Hera Restaurant or Balbi 34.

• Where to Stay in Sarandë

Upmarket: Hotel Butrinti & Spa – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: ArtNest Luxury Hotel & Suites – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Sunset Suites – Booking.com | Agoda

Want to plan your own road tri p? Get our step-by-step road trip planning guide to help you organize the perfect trip, or check out our Europe road trip ideas .

Day 4: Sarandë to Muzinë  

Ksamil is a picturesque village a 20 minute drive south of Sarandë, known for its beautiful beaches and crystal-clear waters.

Start your exploration of the area by visiting the Ksamil Islands, a group of four small islands located off the coast of Ksamil in the Ionian Sea. Here you can enjoy pristine beaches, translucent waters, and stunning views.

In Ksamil, you can sunbathe or swim on Pasqyra Beach, Puerto Rico Beach, or Lori Beach where you can also enjoy watersports like swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. There are quite a few places to rent equipment and take lessons.

Visit the Ali Pasha Castle, a 19th century fortress on a hill overlooking Ksamil. It offers visitors stunning views of the sea and the surrounding countryside.

Another notable historical landmark is the Butrint Ancient Theater . It dates back to the third century and includes several inscriptions carved on its stones.

Walk in the charming village with narrow streets and traditional houses to better understand local life. 

Ksamil is known for its seafood, so treat yourself to some on the beachfront at Abiori Bar Restaurant Pizzeria or The Mussel House Restaurant .

Muzinë is a small village at the foot of the Gribe Mountains. En route there, stop at the Manastiri I Shën Nikollës monastery to admire its impressive exterior and interiors.

The most popular tourist destination near Muzinë is the  Blue Eye water spring or Syri i Kaltër – not to be confused with the one in Theth, there are two official Blue Eyes in Albania!

The blue water of the river forms part of the Blue Eye Nature Preserve and is over 164ft / 50m deep. It is about an hour’s walk from the Blue Eye parking lot and back, so put at least two or more hours aside for the hike and time spent in the spring.

While Muzinë is a small village, several restaurants still serve traditional Albanian dishes. Try Taverna Mouzina for Greek and Mediterranean dishes.

RELATED POST: Blue Eye Albania: Visit Sarandë & Theth Natural Pools

• Where to Stay in Muzinë

Mid-Range: Margaret’s Guest House, Mesopotam – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Hotel Mesopotami – Booking.com | Agoda

Looking for the best SIM card deals in Europe for your trip? Check out our guide to the best data SIMs in Europe and get the best deal for your trip to Albania.

Day 5: Muzinë to Gjirokastër

Gjirokastër.

About an hour from Muzinë is the popular town of Gjirokastër and prepare to be transported in time! Perched above the town of Gjirokastër is a majestic fortress that not only offers panoramic views of the surroundings but also allows you to immerse yourself in centuries of brutal history.

The intricate architecture and the stories that echo within its walls make this castle a must-visit. In the old town below the fortress are distinct cobbled streets lined with handicraft shops and restaurants serving the local delicacy of tavë kosi , a mouthwatering baked dish of lamb and yogurt that’s unique to Gjirokastër.

The well-preserved Ottoman town is one of the most historic and architectural sites in Albania, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With the castle dominating the city and the old wooden houses of the bazaar enticing you in, there’s lots to do in the birthplace of communist leader Enver Hoxha.

• Where to Stay in Gjirokastër

Upmarket: Kerculla Resort – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: Palorto Traditional Hotel – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Aria Guesthouse – Booking.com | Agoda

Day 6: Gjirokastër to Përmet

Përmet , nicknamed ‘The Hero City’, is a charming town 55 miles north of Muzinë. It is known for its beautiful natural scenery, hot springs, and one very large stone!

The City Stone is a prominent rock formation that measures 138 feet / 42 meters high with a top surface of 650 square meters, upon which is an archeological site that is thought to date back as far as the 4th century.

Stories about the City Stone have been passed down in Përmet from between generations and many believe that the town of Përmet was named after a hero from the Middle Ages who was called Premt.

According to legend, Premt was the ruler of the fortress on top of the City Stone and when the town was invaded Premt threw himself from the Stone rather than suffer death at the hands of the enemy.

Make sure to explore the Old Bazaar. This is a great place to discover the town’s traditional culture and crafts and purchase souvenirs. You can find jewelry and textiles and try traditional Albanian delicacies and snacks here.

The magnificent Kisha e Shën Kollit or St Nicholas Church is a stone’s throw from the old city. Admire its stonework and stunning views.

Enjoy dinner at Bar Restaurant Sofra Permetare or Villa Permet Restaurant for local cuisine.

Langorica Canyon

A popular activity among visitors is the Bënja thermal baths , located a few kilometers outside town at the entrance to the magnificent Langorica Canyon, which is guarded by an ancient Roman bridge. The natural hot springs are known for their healing properties and are surrounded by stunning mountain views.

There are several pools close to the bridge but venture on foot into the canyon for secluded hot spots at the bottom of the towering walls.

Adrenaline hunters can also pick up rafting expeditions on the mighty Vjosa River from Përmet. Try Albturist Eco Camping for an unforgettable experience.

• Where to Stay in Përmet

Upmarket: Hotel Hymeti’s Palace – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: The Mosaic House – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Vila Culli – Booking.com | Agoda

Day 7: Përmet to Tirana

Pogradec is a beautiful town located just over 100 miles from Përmet. On your way there, stop at Villa Teo for a break and refreshments.  

The lakeside promenade is a great place for a walk to enjoy the view of Lake Ohrid. Afterward, you can explore Pogradec’s history by visiting one of the 13th century Saint Naum Monastery or The Monumental Tombs Of Lower Selca, about an hour’s drive from Pogradec center.

If you have time, hike up to the Pogradec Panoramic Viewpoint for breathtaking views of the town and its surroundings.

About an hour north of Tirana is the historic city of Kruj ë . It is known for its castle, bazaar, and association with Albania’s national hero, Gjergj Kastrioti, commonly known as Skanderbeg. 

Visit the impressive 5th century Krujë Castle for stunning views of the surrounding area. It is one of Albania’s most visited historical sites, housing a museum dedicated to Skanderbeg and the resistance against Ottoman rule. 

Head to the Ethnographic Museum on the castle grounds to learn more about Albania’s traditional lifestyle and architecture.

Explore the Old Bazaar and Dollma Teqe at the foot of Krujë Castle. The bazaar offers a glimpse into traditional Albanian life through handmade crafts and souvenirs like hand-woven carpets, hand-thrown ceramics, and traditional Albanian food.

The Dollma Teqe is a Bektashi shrine known for its beautiful architecture and peaceful atmosphere.

Try traditional Albanian cuisine at Rooms & Restaurant Emiliano (Krujë Castle) or Restaurant Bardhi and eat byrek , a meat and cheese-filled pastry, tave kosi , a lamb and yogurt dish, and baklava , a sweet treat made with honey, filo pastry, and nuts.

If you’re following the seven day itinerary, here is where you head back to Tirana for your flight home. If you’re following the ten day road trip, read on!

• Where to Stay in Krujë

Upmarket: Kruja Albergo Diffuso – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: Rooms Merlika – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Villa Duka – Booking.com | Agoda

Don’t forget your road trip essentials! Our free road trip checklists help you remember everything, including road trip snacks , podcasts , and road trip songs for the journey!

Day 8: Kruj ë to Theth

The historic city of Shkodër is known for its rich culture and beautiful natural surroundings. 

Explore Shkodër’s historic center and admire the beautiful Ottoman-era architecture. From there, visit attractions like the Ebu Beker Mosque and the Marubi National Museum of Photography . The latter has over 500,000 photographs on exhibit, including many historical images of Albania.

Head to St. Stephen’s Catholic Cathedral , known simply as Shkodër Cathedral, to admire its impressive neoclassical architecture.

Afterward, visit Rozafa Castle, a fortress on a hill overlooking the surrounding area. The castle is named after Rozafa, who, according to legend, agreed to be buried alive inside the walls – you can find out more about the bizarre legend when you visit and see the statue of Rozafa erected on site.

Enjoy lunch or dinner at Bar Restaurant Elita or Puri for local cuisine.

Theth is a two hour drive from Shkodër, located high in the Albanian Alps, known as the Accursed Mountains.

The drive to Theth from Shkodër is dramatic and picturesque. You no longer need a 4×4 to take this journey, as the new road is asphalt all the way, but you will need to take it slowly as this mountain route has many twists and turns, switchbacks, and steep drops.

Due to poor weather conditions during the winter months, the road to Theth is closed between November and May each year. If you are planning a trip to Theth make sure you go during the summer or early autumn.

Upmarket: Hotel Kulla e Bajraktarit, Bogë – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: North Alpine Villas, Bogë – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Molla Guest House – Booking.com | Agoda

Day 9: Theth

The mountain village of Theth is a playground for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts. The stunning natural features like the Blue Eye of Theth and the Grunas Waterfall are nothing short of a spectacle, offering fantastic photo opportunities and a moment to connect with nature. 

Make sure you visit the Church of Theth, Kisha e Thethit , which is an architectural gem that, with its dramatic mountain backdrop, creates an idyllic view you won’t soon forget!

You should also visit the well-preserved Lock-in or Blood Tower of Theth. It is a traditional 17th century Albanian tower that offers visitors a glimpse into the local culture and life and is known for having imprisoned all of those who had committed serious crimes against the  Kanun of Lekë Dukagjin , a set of oral traditional Albanian laws codified in the 15th century.

The famous Theth Blue Eye is fed by a waterfall on the Limi i Zi or Kaprreja River, which flows into the limestone pool. The Theth Blue Eye is fast becoming as popular as the Sarandë Blue Eye, although it is a bit more off the beaten path and does take a bit more effort to visit.

Most hikers take the 9.7 mile / 15.6km trek to the famous waterfall, which takes approximately six hours there and back, following the nearby river as you go. It is not a difficult route with little elevation gain, but it is long, so make sure to take a water bottle with you.

You can also hire a taxi from Theth to Nderlysaj instead. From there, it is only a 30 to 40 minute hike to the Blue Eye one way. 

At the trailhead, there are a few restaurants and bars overlooking the river, before you cross the Ndërlysaj Bridge to pick up the 30-40 minute Vaskat Ndërlysaj hiking trail through the woods that surround the whole area.

The 2.5 km route is well-traveled and follows a flat path for a kilometer or so before you start to gain elevation on a narrow dirt track through the trees. This track undulates a fair bit, and there are rocks, steps, and tree routes to negotiate, and if it’s been raining it can be slippery so wear decent walking shoes or sturdy trainers.

Try some local cuisine at Villa Gjecaj Restaurant or Jezerca Restaurant for food with an Italian flair.

Day 10: Theth to Tirana

The final day of your road trip sees you heading down the mountain. Stop at Shkodër if time is a bit tight on the way through, or take more time to explore Tirana before heading to the airport.

If you have more time and your own or a hire car, the countries of Montenegro, Greece , Serbia, Kosovo, and even Italy are all within easy striking distance.

Albania Road Trip Essentials

Here are the websites and services we personally use and recommend for traveling in Albania.

• Search for affordable flights to Albania with Skyscanner
• Search for availability and book hotels and accommodation in Albania with Booking.com
• Find and book the best campsites in Albania with Pitchup
• Book the cheapest and most reliable hire cars in Albania with Rentalcars.com
• Find and hire your perfect motorhome or campervan with Motorhome Republic
• Get highly rated, reliable, and trustworthy travel insurance with True Traveller
• Check if you need a visa and arrange your documents with Visagov

Traveling & Driving in Albania

If you are a confident driver, you shouldn’t find it too difficult to drive in Albania. However, you should be aware that Albanian drivers can be quite erratic, and not all of the roads are paved or kept in good condition, especially in rural areas, although their motorway network is reasonably well maintained.

Whether you’re traveling in your own car, touring Albania in a motorhome, or flying in and renting a car for a driving tour, you need to follow these rules on your Albania roadtrip.

• You must have at least three months remaining on your passport at your intended departure date from Albania.
• British and EU citizens can enter and remain in Albania for a maximum of 90 days in every 6 month period without a visa. American citizens are generally allowed to stay in Albania for up to one year without a visa.
• You must have at least 3rd party insurance for your vehicle. Not all insurers cover driving in Albania so check before you go and make sure you’re covered.
• Citizens of non-EU third countries may require an International Driving Permit for driving in Europe . You can check whether you need an IDP here .

Rules of the Road

• Albania drives on the right and overtakes and passes on the left.
• You must carry a warning triangle and first aid kit by law. We also recommend that you carry at least one reflective jacket within the passenger compartment of your vehicle and a fire extinguisher.
• Snow chains are compulsory to carry if you’re driving between 1st November and 30th April.
• Vehicles from the right and emergency vehicles have priority.
• If you drive at night, watch out for unmarked roadworks, potholes, and unlit vehicles on the roads.
• Speed limits vary across Albania, so always check the signposts for maximum speeds. In urban areas, the limit is usually 40km/h unless otherwise signposted and 80km/h – 90km/h outside these areas. On the motorway, the limit is 110km/h.
• If you’re involved in any sort of collision, you must wait until the police arrive.
• There are no toll roads or low-emission zones in Albania.

RELATED POST: Driving in Europe – Everything You Need to Know

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The Perfect Albania Road Trip: This Place Is Epic! (UPDATED 2024)

• Last Updated: May 13, 2024
• Albania , Destinations , Europe

In this post, I’ll help you plan the perfect Albania road trip. I’ve included my pick of best places to visit, suggested itineraries, where to find accommodation, tips for car hire and driving in Albania, and much more.

I’ve been to Albania several times and know most parts of the country pretty well. Last year I lived there for almost 2 months. It’s one of my absolute favourite countries and has so much to offer.

Best Places To Visit In Albania

With so many fantastic places to see and visit, it can be hard to choose where to go in Albania.

Here are a few of my favourite places to visit in Albania. This list gives you a roughly circular route, so you can start and finish anywhere along it, depending on where you’re coming from.

Most flights to Albania go to Tirana, the capital and most populated city in the country.  So you will probably be starting your Albania roadtrip here. 

Even if you aren’t, it’s a cool place and I’d recommend including it on your Albania itinerary. 

There is enough to see and do in this quirky, fun city to spend at least a day or two here.  There’s also delicious food to be found all over the city.

A great way to get a feel for the city is to go on a   walking tour .  These are organised by local people who are passionate about their city, its history, interesting architecture, and unique culture.  

Walking tours usually depart from the steps of the Opera House on Skenderbej Square, in the city centre.

One of the city’s most unusual, and interesting, sights is  Bunk’Art 2 .  This communist-era nuclear bunker was built by Albania’s paranoid former dictator Enver Hoxha in the 1980s. 

Today, it’s a museum dedicated to the country’s history.  Well worth a visit.

My other top recommendations would include a visit to the Natural History Museum of Albania ,  Gallery 43 (an excellent art gallery), and the beautiful Et’hem Bey Mosque . 

The Tirana Sky Tower’s top-floor bar  offers a panoramic view of the city.  It’s a perfect place for a drink at sunset, after a long day of sightseeing.

Check out my post on the best restaurants in Tirana .

An easy 2.5-hour drive southwest of Tirana is Vlorë, on the Adriatic Sea.  The road from Tirana to the coast is in excellent condition and you shouldn’t have any trouble navigating this first stretch.

Vlorë is a coastal resort town, and a gateway to southern Albania, with many hotels and a good selection of restaurants.  The town itself is not particularly beautiful, but it has decent amenities and a laid-back seaside vibe.

There is a beach at Vlorë, but it’s nothing on the beaches you’ll be visiting later on.  So don’t worry about spending too much time here.

3. The Llogara Pass

South of Vlorë, the journey starts to get really beautiful.  In fact, the coastal drive between Vlorë and Sarandë is easily one of my favourite roads in the world.  

The main coastal highway takes you through some truly spectacular scenery.  Think Amalfi Coast, but without the other tourists (and a fraction of the cost).

As you approach Llogara National Park, on the slopes of the Ceraunian Mountains, the road starts to ascend fairly steeply. 

There are many hairpins and switch-backs, as you snake your way ever higher.  

Try hard to keep your eyes on the road, though I guarantee this will be difficult.  The scenery is really stunning.

Finally, you will reach the Llogara Pass , the highest point.  Stop at the beautiful viewpoints and enjoy the breathtaking views. 

The azure sea sparkles in the sunlight as you gaze south over the Albanian Riviera, while Çika Mountain towers over you.

If you’re into hiking , there are several excellent trails in Llogara National Park, including a challenging 14-kilometre hike to the summit of Mount Çika and back.  

This is one of the best ways to enjoy the stunning landscapes and dramatic scenery.

I love this place and I’m sure you will too.

4. The Albanian Riviera

Albania has some of the  best beaches in Europe  (fact), and most of them are on the Albanian Riviera. 

This mountainous stretch of the Ionian Sea coast runs between Sarandë and Vlorë, and the drive is epic.

Here are some of the best spots on the Riviera to include in your Albania itinerary.

Shortly after you descend from the Llogara Pass, you will come to Dhërmi.

This picturesque little coastal town is a great place to stop, either for lunch or overnight.  Just beware, it can get quite crowded in the peak summer months.

In Dhërmi you’ll find a range of options for food and accommodation, and it’s a stone’s throw from some amazing beaches.  

The town itself enjoys a beautiful setting, with crystal clear blue waters and a backdrop of craggy mountains.

See here for my pick of the best hotels in Dhërmi.

Drymades Beach

If Dhërmi beach is a little too crowded, Drymades beach is another good option and is only a 5-minute drive away.

However, at the time of writing, a big construction project had just started there.  I imagine that soon this area will be covered with luxury hotels. Visit now before it becomes too spoilt.

If you prefer your beaches more secluded, definitely check out  Gjipe Beach .  This idyllic stretch of sand is a definite contender for the best beach in Albania.

The car park for Gjipe Beach is a 15-minute drive south of Dhërmi.  This beach doesn’t have direct road access, and you’ll need to walk 1.5 km along a gravel track from the car park.

It’s definitely worth the walk.  The little cove you’ll reach is beyond beautiful.  Outside of the summer months, you can often have the entire place to yourself.

If you have camping gear , this is an awesome place to spend the night.

Once little more than a sleepy fishing village,  Himarë  is now a well-known (and much loved) beach town.  It’s also gaining a reputation as one of Albania’s best backpacker destinations.

In general, it’s quite a bit cheaper here than nearby Dhërmi.  

There are a number of budget-friendly hostels and cheap guest houses in Himarë.  And you won’t struggle to find cheap but excellent bars and restaurants.  

The whole place strikes the perfect balance between being well geared up for tourism, but at the same time not feeling overly commercialised.

There are two main parts to  Himarë .  The modern town centre is located on the seafront and has one main street and a little harbour.  

Then there’s the area around the historical castle ruins (called Himarë Fshat), which is perched at the top of a hill overlooking the bay. This second area is a real hidden gem.  

I rented  this place  (Maria Apartments) up there for a month and loved it so much.  It’s incredibly peaceful, and you have an amazing view of both Himarë and Livadhi beaches.

Himarë is a very cool place and deserves to be on your Albania itinerary.  I’d recommend spending at least a day or two here.

Another great beach on the southern Albanian Riviera,  Borsh Beach is an easy 30-minute drive south of Himarë.

Borsh is one of the longest beaches in Albania, stretching for several kilometres.  It’s also one of the most beautiful.  The area has also not been overly developed, adding to the charm.

Here the sea is almost impossibly clear and turquoise.  It’s perfect for swimming and snorkelling.  You can also hire kayaks or sailing dinghies from the vendors near the car park.

This is another fantastic place to camp on the beach.  Alternatively, there are many affordable hotels. 

You can feast on fresh seafood in one of the many beachfront restaurants, or head to one of the more secluded sections and barbecue for yourself.

About an hour south of Borsh Beach, you will arrive at Sarandë.

This medium-sized town is much busier and more developed than the idyllic little towns and villages that surround it.  

Sarandë might not be as quiet or peaceful as the smaller towns along the Albanian Riviera. 

But, it does have a large range of accommodation options, from budget to high-end hotels, several excellent restaurants, and a variety of bars and other nightlife.

This is a personal choice, but I prefer to stay in smaller, quieter places.  If you’re like me, instead of Sarandë, I’d suggest spending the night in Ksamil, 14 km further south.

Ksamil is a beautiful little village in the far south of Albania.  It’s located in a sheltered bay, with white sands, crystal clear waters and a few islands offshore.  

Ksamil is a popular spot, due to its proximity to Sarandë, and its stunning setting.

This is another place with a fledgling backpacker scene, so you won’t struggle to find decent budget accommodation and places to eat and drink. 

There are loads of beach bars and restaurants with terraces that are great places to sit and unwind.

There are several nice beaches in the bays around Ksamil, where the water is clear and great for snorkelling.  This is one of the best ones.

You can even swim to some of the little islands in the main bay.

Check out this post on the 10 best hotels in Ksamil .

7. Butrint National Park

A short drive (or 5 km walk) from the centre of Ksamil is the ruined city of  Butrint .  This fascinating site has been occupied for thousands of years.

Today you can see the remains left by the ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Venetians.  It’s well worth a visit if you have the time.

The ruins are located inside the larger Butrint National Park. 

This peaceful and picturesque place surrounds a large lagoon and consists of several freshwater lakes , salt marshes, islands, and reed beds.  

It’s an important habitat for over 1,200 different species of plants and animals.

8. Blue Eye

20 kilometres inland from Sarandë is the famous  Blue Eye  ( Syri i Kaltër , in Albanian).

It’s a natural spring where fresh water emerges from the ground into a deep pool, which then flows out into a larger pool that drains into a little river.  

The water is extremely clear, and from above looks like an eye, with a dark centre and a lighter-coloured ring around the edge.  

It’s really beautiful and is surrounded by tranquil forests of pine, walnut, hazelnut, and cherry trees.

Nobody knows quite how deep the pool is.  Divers have descended to fifty metres, but haven’t been able to go any further down inside.

The water stays at a constant 10 degrees Celsius, and there are signs saying not to swim in the pool, though many people still choose to take a dip in the water surrounding the Eye.

The parking area is located here (Google Maps), 1.5 kilometres from the natural pool. 

To get to the Blue Eye itself, you walk along a newly-made path, through some very picturesque scenery.  You can also hire an e-scooter if you’d prefer.

There’s a picnic area and a little restaurant next to the Eye that serves traditional Albanian food.  It’s a pleasant spot to spend an hour or so, and the beautiful trees provide some welcome shade.  

Here you’ll also find a drinking fountain that’s constantly flowing with fresh water from the Eye.  Fill up your water bottle here, it’s really delicious!

See here for a detailed explanation of how to visit the Blue Eye, Albania .

9. Gjirokaster (an incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site)

Heading back north, I’d definitely recommend spending at least a day or two in and around Gjirokaster, the “Stone City”. 

This amazing old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is incredibly atmospheric.

Here you will find some of the best examples of Ottoman architecture in Europe.

Wandering through the maze of cobblestone streets, past carpet sellers and artisans making clothes and jewellery, feels like going back in time.  

The  medieval castle perched on a hill is a popular tourist destination and offers fantastic views over the old town and its surroundings.

Bizarrely, inside the castle grounds, you will find a U.S. Air Force plane that crash-landed in 1957. 

The aircraft was confiscated by the Albanian government, which believed that the Americans were using it as a spy plane.

Learn about the turbulent history of this fascinating little city by taking this excellent walking tour.

Gjirokaster is also a fantastic place to take a traditional Albanian cooking class .

If you have the time and want to stretch your legs after all of the driving, there are several great hiking trails in the mountains surrounding the town. 

Head to the  tourist information centre  in the main bazaar for maps and further info.

Gjirokaster is a really awesome place and definitely deserves to be on your Albania road trip itinerary.  I’d recommend spending at least one day here to see all the sights.

About three hours north of Gjirokaster, Berat is another well-preserved Ottoman city.

This historic town, known as the “City of a Thousand Windows”, is actually spread over two locations. 

The lower area beside the river bank is called Mangalem, and this is overlooked by Kalaja which is dominated by a medieval castle.

Visit Albania  runs guided walking tours of the old city which give a fascinating insight to the rich history of the area, and the city’s inhabitants through the ages. 

These tours are really great, I’d thoroughly recommend joining one.

For accommodation in Berat, the castle itself contains a few guesthouses which are excellent and have fantastic views over the old town below.

From Berat, it’s an easy two-hour drive back to Tirana .  On the way, check out Çobo Winery , a great family-run vineyard with beautiful grounds.

Suggested Albanian Road Trip Itineraries

Here are a few suggested Albania itineraries to help you plan the perfect trip.

These all assume that you will be flying into and out of Tirana.  But because each itinerary is a loop, you could start and finish at any point.

Albania isn’t a huge country. It only takes a few hours to drive from end to end.  

You could technically squeeze all of the above places into one week, at a push. Especially if you don’t spend too long at each of the beaches.  But it would be quite rushed.  

I always prefer to travel slowly and would recommend taking at least two weeks to do this trip, if possible.  

That way you’ll get much more of a feel for the places you’re travelling though.  You’ll almost certainly meet more people too. 🙂

1-week Albania itinerary

With only one week, you’ll need to move quickly, but you’ll still be able to see a decent amount of the country.

Here’s the itinerary I’d suggest:

• Day 1: explore Tirana
• Day 2: drive to Vlorë, spend the afternoon and evening there
• Day 3: drive over the Llogara Pass, check out Dhërmi beach, stay in Himarë
• Day 4: spend the day exploring the local beaches ( Gjipe is my favourite)
• Day 5: drive to Sarandë, look around, then drive to Gjirokaster (via the Blue Eye, if you have time)
• Day 6:  explore Gjirokaster
• Day 7: drive back to Tirana (via Berat, if you have time)

10-day Albania itinerary

With 10 days, you can either try to visit more places or spend a bit longer getting to know the ones mentioned above.

Either way, I’d recommend spending two days in Tirana to get a better feel for the city.

You could also spend a night in Sarandë, and visit Ksamil and/or Butrint if you fancy.

2-week Albania itinerary

2 weeks is an ideal length for your Albania itinerary.  In this time, you’d easily be able to visit everywhere mentioned in this post.

Here’s a rough suggested itinerary:

Day 1-2: Tirana

• Day 3: Vlorë
• Day 4: Llogara Pass, hike in Llogara National Park
• Day 5: Dhërmi beach, Himarë
• Day 6: Hike from Himarë along the coast, checking out the various beaches between there and Jalë beach
• Day 7:  Gjipe beach
• Day 8: Sarandë
• Day 9: Ksamil and Butrint
• Day 10-11: Blue Eye, Gjirokaster
• Day 12-13: Berat
• Day 14: return to Tirana

How To Get To Albania

There are a few different ways to get to Albania, depending on where you’re coming from.

Several airlines fly to Tirana from other European cities.  If coming from the UK, you can fly direct with either British Airways or Wizz Air.

I use – and recommend –  Aviasales  to find the best deals on flights. 

Their search engine is really easy to use and often picks up on promotions and discounted fares that are missed by other comparison sites. 

You can search across a range of dates, and it suggests the best dates and times for you.

🤩 Click here to compare the cheapest flights available

An alternative (and sometimes cheaper) option is to fly to Corfu  and then take the short (forty-minute) ferry to Sarandë. 

If you’re doing this, you can easily start your Albania road trip from here and still follow the above route.

If coming from Italy , there is an overnight ferry from Bari to Durrës, which also takes cars.  I took this ferry earlier this year and it was great. 

The cabin was super comfortable, and it’s a really atmospheric way to arrive in the Balkans.

From Greece , there are daily buses to Tirana from Athens and Thessaloniki.

Albania shares land borders with Montenegro (north-west), Kosovo (north-east), North Macedonia (east), and Greece (south/south-east).

These borders are all open and straightforward to cross, making it relatively easy to reach Albania by road from other destinations in south-east Europe.

You can also take your car on the ferry from Bari to Durrës (above).  This is likely to be the most convenient option if you’re coming from Italy , or other destinations in western Europe.

(If you are also visiting southern Italy, spend at least a few days in Naples – it’s one of the best, and most underrated, cities in Europe.)

Where To Stay During Your Albania Road Trip

Albania is still a very affordable destination, by European standards. From cheap guesthouses to luxury hotels, you’ll find a wide range of accommodations to fit your budget and preferences.

Hotels and guesthouses

Most locations have a variety of hotels and guesthouses. You usually won’t struggle to find a double room for €30 per night, including breakfast.  

They can be even cheaper in less touristy areas, as well as during off-season periods.  Popular places fill up during the summer months, so it’s a good idea to book ahead if you’re travelling then.

🤩 Check availability and prices!

Those travelling on a larger budget will find many luxury hotels and spas, especially in popular holiday spots like Dhermi and Ksamil .

Booking.com  is a good place to look for deals.

Hostels can be found in the towns and cities which are popular with backpackers, including Tirana, Himarë, Sarandë, Gjirokaster, and Berat. 

These are usually high quality and you can often snag a dorm bed for around €10 per night .

Airbnb  is becoming increasingly popular in Albania.  I’d always check out the listings on offer wherever you are planning to visit.  Sometimes the most beautiful places can be a steal.

The cheapest (i.e. free) option is to wild camp, which is possible on many of the country’s stunning beaches.  You shouldn’t have any trouble doing this as long as you steer clear of the busier places.  

If you have your own car, it’s usually straightforward to find a secluded spot and pitch up for the night.  This is also one of the best ways to keep your itinerary as flexible as possible.

Don’t expect many facilities, but this is an awesome way to keep costs down.  Plus you get to fall asleep to the sound of the waves 🙂

Check out this article where I review the  best tents for wild camping .

In short… One of the best tents that money can buy is the  MSR Hubba Hubba 2-person tent .

Here are some of my favourite  camping quotes and captions .

Why Visit Albania?

In this little corner of Southeast Europe, you’ll find extremely varied scenery, mountains, forests, stunning beaches on the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, crystal clear waters, friendly people, and beautiful architecture.

Albania was a closed country for much of the twentieth century, under a strict and insular communist regime.  But that’s now very much a thing of the past.  

Today, Albania is a fast-changing, modern democracy with a huge amount to see and do.  

The potential for tourism here is immense, easily equal to some of its better-known neighbours (Montenegro, Greece, etc.).  

But while Albania is slowly creeping onto some people’s travel radars, for most it still remains a mystery.  That makes it a fantastic place to explore now! 

See also:  Basic words and phrases in Albanian

Best Time Of Year To Visit Albania

You can visit Albania any time of year.  However, the winters are cold (icy, steep, winding mountain roads = bad), and the summers very hot (and crowded, especially on the coast).  

The best time to visit Albania is either during the spring (April-June) or autumn (September-October).  The weather is pleasant, making it ideal for outdoor activities.  

You’ll also avoid many of the crowds, and may even be able to blag some off-peak discounts for accommodation.

Staying Safe In Albania

Albania is a very safe country to visit.  Crime against foreigners is rare, and most Albanians are extremely welcoming and hospitable.

Petty crime does occasionally occur, though probably no more than where you live.  Take the same precautions as you would anywhere, and you’ll be fine.

Albanian roads are the only places where your safety is likely to be at risk.  (See next section.)

Car Hire In Albania

In my experience, the best deals on car hire in Albania are usually found on localrent.com .  

They compare the prices of local car rental companies, which tend to be significantly cheaper than the big international hire companies.

I definitely recommend that you check out Localrent Albania if you need to hire a car for your road trip through Albania.  Prices are often lowest if you pick up your rental car from Tirana Airport.

🤩 Click here for the latest prices

Many countries’ driving licences are recognised in Albania.  If you’re coming from the UK, you can drive with your UK driving licence, without the need for an  International Driving Permit (IDP) . 

Car hire companies may impose their own requirements, so it’s always best to check with them before arriving if you need to hire a car.

Driving In Albania

Driving in Albania is super fun, and the best way to see the country.  But it’s not for the faint-hearted. 

Drivers can be aggressive (e.g. regularly overtaking on blind hairpin corners at three times the speed limit).  

If you’re a confident, competent driver you’ll be fine.  Stick to the limit, and if people are on your tail, just pull over and let the nutters pass.

Some roads are in fantastic condition, others are not. 

Beware of potholes, especially in rural areas.  And I’d avoid driving at night, as it’s much harder to spot animals/potholes in the road (and you’ll miss the amazing scenery).

Best Tours In Albania

You can browse through and book some of the best and most high-rated Albania tours on Viator .

There are many different tours to choose from. Some are short day trips with guides, others are multi-day (or even multi-week) trips where all of your transport and accommodation is taken care of.

Personally, I prefer to travel independently, but there are certainly advantages to joining an organised tour. It’s up to you what style of trip appeals to you most.

Here are answers to a few more frequently asked questions about visiting Albania.

Is Albania worth visiting?

Yes, Albania is definitely worth visiting for its stunning natural beauty, including pristine beaches and scenic mountain landscapes, rich historical sites from different eras, and a unique cultural blend of Mediterranean and Balkan influences.

How long do I need to see Albania?

You could see many of Albania’s highlights in 7 days, including Tirana, the Albanian Riviera, and historical sites such as Berat and Gjirokastër. However, I recommend spending at least 2 weeks in Albania to allow you to visit more off-the-beaten-path destinations and truly experience the local culture.

What paperwork do I need to drive my own car in Albania?

To drive your own car in Albania, you need a valid driver’s license from your home country, original car registration documents, and proof of insurance. It’s also a good idea to have an International Driving Permit (IDP) and a green card or international insurance document that proves your vehicle is insured for driving in Albania.

What are Albanian roads like?

Albanian roads vary in quality. Major highways and roads in urban areas are generally in good condition. However, rural and mountainous areas often have roads that are less maintained, with potholes and uneven surfaces. Some remote areas have unpaved or gravel roads.

Is Albania cheap to visit?

Albania is one of the most affordable countries to visit in Europe. Accommodation, food, and transportation are generally cheaper compared to most other European countries.

Final Thoughts

I hope this guide helps you plan an epic road trip in Albania. It’s one of my favourite countries and I’m sure you’ll see why once you start exploring this Balkan gem.

Enjoy your trip! Let me know how it goes in the comments below.

** Love road trips?  Me too.  Check out some of my other road trip-related posts, including:

• Oman Road Trip: An Epic Arabian Adventure
• Driving From Dubai To Oman: What You Need To Know
• Ethiopia: A Road Trip Like No Other
• Best Places To Visit In Northern Turkey **

Like This Article? Pin it!

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• New Year, New Adventures: 7 Reasons Why You Should Visit Albania in 2024
• Basic Albanian Phrases For Travel
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• How To Visit Jale Beach AND Aquarium Beach, Albania (2024)
• 10 Best Hotels In Dhërmi Beach, Albania (2024)
• Gjipe Beach: The Hidden Gem of the Albanian Riviera (2024)
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• How to Visit the Blue Eye: Albania's Natural Wonder (Syri i Kaltër) in 2024

Alex Tiffany

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10 Comments

Loved the articles. We’re planning to drive from Dubai to Oman in February and your road trip and advice is timely and helpful. We’ll let you know how it goes ????

I’m so glad 🙂 Hope you have a great trip!

Great post. Thanks for all that advice.

Glad you found it useful 🙂

Thank you Alex. I have limited time in Albania, hired a car but wasn’t sure of the best places to visit. You answered all of my questions. Thank you so much.

That’s great – glad it’s been helpful 🙂

Hello mate, do you have any tips for renting a car out in Albania, and crossing borders with it? I’m going to be travelling the Balkans in late Aug/early Sept and I want to go from Albania to Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia. From there I’ll be re-entering Albania after a couple of nights at the lake. I actually think the best way would be bus to Ohrid and then pick up a car there and drive back to Albania (Saranda area) but cant find any reasonable deals online

Eurocar (not Europcar) is one of the best local car companies in Albania and, as far as I know, they allow you to take their cars out of the country for a small additional fee. You can contact them directly via their website: https://eurocar.al . Make sure you let them know that you want to take the car out of the country at the time you make the booking, as they’ll need to sort out some extra paperwork for you that you’ll (probably) need to show at the border.

I don’t have any experience with renting a car in North Macedonia, but your other plan would be a one-way rental with a dropoff in another country, which I assume would cost a lot more (/ not be possible at all). If it were me, I’d definitely rent the car in Albania and return it to the same place.

Some great ideas here, but you’ve completely missed everything north of Tirana, particularly the northern city of Shkodër, which has absolutely transformed in the past two decades from a quaint town still pulling itself out of the vestiges of communism to a nexus point for backpackers and travellers. The amazing pedestrian-only Rruga Kolë Idromeno is not to be missed – both during the day and at night. Rozafa Castle and the nearby Lake Skadar, which straddles the border between Albania and Montenegro are a short drive/taxi ride away. Do NOT miss this northern Albanian jewel!!!

I’ve only just recently visited northern Albania for the first time and haven’t yet got round to writing about it (including updating this post). But you’re right, those places are awesome!

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• I’m Alex Tiffany.  Former corporate city robot; lifelong travel addict.
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Epic Albania Road Trip Itinerary: 1 – 2 Weeks In Albania [2024]

• Post author: Nicoletta
• Reading time: 91 mins read
• Post last modified: February 8, 2024
• Post comments: 0 Comments

Welcome to the  Land of the Eagles . I traveled to Albania alone to explore the country, which was closed for many years due to its regime. That always  fascinates me as a traveler  – going to less-known places and making up my mind about them. People told me, don’t go there; it’s dangerous – which  triggered me even more to explore it .

I saw the entire Albania within 2 weeks  of my travels and quickly  fell in love  with everything it offers. Then, I’ve designed this  Albanian road trip itinerary  from my experience, so you can now also explore its beauties.

Are you ready to experience Albania’s highlights ? Let’s travel together!

✈ Travel Resources For Your Trip ✈

Here are some of my favorite travel resources I use for my travel adventures.

Overview Of 10-Day Albania Road Trip Itinerary

I’ve designed this itinerary as a basic 10-day road trip in Albania. You can either skip some places or stay more time in each place (particularly in the Albanian Alps in the end), depending on how many days you have.

Scroll down to see a road trip for 7 days and 14 days in Albania .

Here is an overview of the basic 10-day Albanian itinerary :

Albania Road Trip Map

Here is a map of this Albanian road trip itinerary to help you navigate the country. Save it and use it when you travel:

You can get to Albania by plane, bus, or by car . Note that there are no trains to Albania or within Albania.

Flying To Albania

Flying to Albania is the best option as it’s fast and convenient. Reaching Albania by land can be exhausting (whether by bus or car) because the border controls take an insane amount of time.

Albania has 2 international airports , in Tirana (the capital city) and Vlore.

The best way is to fly to the capital city of Tirana , where we’ll also start this itinerary.

➡ Check out flights to Tirana (Albania) with the best deals via Skyscanner here.

Getting To Albania By Bus

If you’re traveling to Albania from nearby countries such as North Macedonia, Serbia, Bulgaria, or Greece , you can also take a bus. The main bus connections to Tirana (Albania) are from Belgrade (Serbia), Ohrid and Skopje ( North Macedonia ), or Podgorica (Montenegro).

Flixbus and local Balkan bus companies cover most of the journeys to Albania.

The main disadvantage of taking a bus to Albania is the border controls . The Balkan countries, including Albania, aren’t in the Schengen Zone , so the border controls still exist.

Normally, you have to spend many hours waiting (usually takes 2 hours ). You’re crossing 2 borders (the exiting country and Albania), so overall, be prepared to spend almost 4 hours at the border crossings.

When taking a bus, the police force you to exit the bus and take all your belongings and luggage. Then you have to go through a scan ; they check your passport, and the entire bus goes through a scan in some cases, too.

It’s nothing scary, but it takes ages.

➡ Check all the bus connections to Tirana (Albania) via Busbud here.

Getting To Albania By Car

Driving to Albania is great but has the same disadvantages as the border crossing and waiting time.

While it might take a bit less than on the bus, be prepared to wait for a long time at the border controls. But it’s manageable. If you have a van or car, it’s worth driving around Albania .

How To Get Around Albania & Make This Itinerary

The best way to get around Albania is by car . The roads are well-developed, and you can easily reach everything in this itinerary by car. That’s why I’ve designed this trip as a road trip.

So rent a car in Tirana (the capital city), and drive around. You’ll be flexible and can get to all the places.

👉 You’ll  need the car for 9 days , starting on day 2. of this itinerary in Tirana and returning the car on day 10 or 11 in Tirana.

RENT A CAR FOR YOUR ITINERARY

Rent A Car Via Discover Cars – best prices and big selection of car rentals. PRO TIP: Check ratings of the company you choose before booking ( ratings can be off ). Go on Google, see ratings of the car rental company, then book on Discover Cars.

Taking Local Buses In Albania

You can also use  local buses to travel around Albania , but  I don’t recommend it . I did it, and even though it was an exciting experience, you’d have to plan a lot and  depend on the buses .

Moreover, the  buses don’t have a fixed timetable , making planning your trip even more difficult.

Yet, if you want to take  local buses  anyway (because you’re traveling solo or whatever the reason is), it’s manageable. Check out my article about  Albanian buses  to learn how to navigate and pla n.

👉 READ ALSO: Is Albania Safe For Solo Female Travelers? My Exerience

Play Bunker Game While Road Tripping Albania

I have a little fun game for you when you decide to go on a road trip through Albania.

Albania hosts over  750,000 bunkers  all over the country. So you can play a game about who spots the most of them during your road trip. Albanian dictator  Enver Hoxha  built these bunkers to protect the land from invaders. 

0. DAY: ARRIVE IN TIRANA, ALBANIA

Once you arrive in Tirana, take your time and get to your accommodation. In the evening, get your first impressions of this city and its culture.

Tirana has a great  nightlife culture . Many bars are open, where locals sit, drink, and chat. It’s a very  lively city . So try your first Albanian food and drinks. Tomorrow, we’ll head on the walking tour and explore.

How To Get To Tirana Center From The Airport

If you’re flying to Albania and arriving at the airport. In that case, I recommend taking a taxi to the city center of Tirana or booking this airport shuttle .

A taxi ride from the airport to the city center in Tirana costs approx. 15 to 20 EUR . The drivers can ask for a lot more because they take advantage of tourists, not knowing how much it costs. So say you know and negotiate the price .

If you want to take the hassle out of dealing with taxi drivers, book this airport transfer and get directly to your hotel with a reliable company.

➡ Book an airport shuttle to your hotel in Tirana here.

Where To Stay In Tirana: My TOP TIPS For Accommodation

RETREAT APARTMENTS – budget-friendly accommodation CAPITAL SUITES CENTER – mid-range apartments MARITIM HOTEL PLAZA – luxury hotel

1. DAY: TIRANA

Good morning to Tirana. Today, we’ll do a  self-guided walking tour  here in Tirana. Follow my suggestions below and explore the city on your own.

If you are a history fanatic and would like more explanations, join this guided walking tour .

➡ Book A Guided Tour Of Tirana Here . / Book a food tour of Tirana with a local guide here .

Brief History Of Tirana

The modern city of Tirana was  founded in 1614 by Sulejman Bargjini Pasha . He built a mosque, bakery, and hammam (Turkish bath). However, the city gained its importance only in  1920 when it became the capital  of Albania (before, it was Kruja city).

Later, Italian architects also contributed to the city’s beauty by constructing the main square, ministry buildings, the national bank, town hall, and Brigades Palace. The main square is named after the  Albanian hero National Hero Skanderbeg  (more about him later in this itinerary).

Tirana was  famous for trading olive oil  in the past, as it had 140,000 oil trees and 400 oil mills.

Between 1944 and 1991, the  Communist regime was ruling Albania . Communists built many factories and destroyed several buildings, which led to a decline in architectural quality.

Nowadays, many buildings are repainted and have a more  colorful style  than in the Communist era. You’ll learn more about the Communist regime in the  Bunk’ Art .

Tirana now remains the capital of Albania, the largest city , and the country’s economic, cultural, and political center .

💡 FUN FACT: Tirana is the only European capital that doesn’t have McDonald’s (except also for the Vatican City).

Sightseeing In Tirana

Tirana has a long history, with influences from various styles and Empires , which results in each monument having its own exciting story. Let’s explore them.

🔅 Skanderbeg Square 🔅 Clock Tower 🔅 Bunk’Art 🔅 Tanner’s Bridge 🔅 Piramida 🔅 Central Park 🔅 Blloku District 🔅 Dajti Mountain

🔅 Skanderbeg Square

Skanderbeg Square hosts many buildings, including the  National History Museum ,  Clock Tower , and  Et’hem Bey Mosque .

The square is named after the national hero, George Castriot ( nicknamed Skanderbeg ), who prevented the Ottomans from spreading their empire further to Central Europe and Western Europe in the 1400s.

Get the best views of Tirana by climbing up the  Clock Tower  free of charge.

🔅 Bunk’Art

Bunk’Art is one of the most unique attractions in the entire Balkan peninsula. These bunkers were constructed for  Tirana’s communist politicians  and military forces to hide and hold meetings in case of a nuclear war.

It has more than  200 rooms  inside and is a great experience. You’ll learn a lot about the  harsh communist regime , what it looked like, and how they tortured people and kept them within Albanian borders.

It was one of the best experiences for me in Tirana, yet also very emotional .

🔅 Tanner’s Bridge

This bridge reflects the Ottoman times in Tirana. It was built as the main route for farmers who were taking their livestock to the district.

Piramida monument was built to  honor the national dictatorship of Enver Hoxha . It was supposed to be a museum. Yet, some people wanted to tear it down. Others wanted it to stay.

The government has decided to  reconstruct it  and make this beautiful pyramid that you can visit today.

🔅 Central Park

If you’d like to get some rest from the city, go to Central Park in the afternoon and rest. It’s located near the Blloku district , where you can enjoy a great dinner and  nightlife .

In the evening, spend some time in the  Blloku district , which has great bars and street food options. Have a nice dinner and try to chat with the locals.

🔅 Dajti Mountain

If you have more time in Tirana, you can take the  longest cable car  from the city to the Dajti mountain in the Balkan region . It has many restaurants and hotels; you can trek, hike, ride a horse, or even ski in wintertime.

This marks the end of our time here in Tirana . Tomorrow, we’ll start exploring the rest of this exciting country. You can rent a car for this road trip today in the evening or tomorrow morning.

👉 READ ALSO: 12 Best Day Trips From Tirana Albania

2. DAY: TIRANA ⇒ BERAT ⇒ ZVERNEC ISLAND ⇒ DHERMI

I hope you slept well because we are setting off on our Albanian adventure today.

First, we’ll stop in the  city of thousands of windows  before slowly going down to  the Albanian Riviera  with white sand beaches and beautiful landmarks.

Distance Tirana ⇒ Berat: 1 hour & 45 minutes by car (98 km/61 miles)

With its 2500 years of history, Berat attracts visitors thanks to its archaeological area , UNESCO World Heritage site, local monuments, and the mountains around.

It’s known as the  city of thousands of windows , you’ll see why when you arrive.

It became part of the Ottoman Empire in the 1400s. Still, it’s been an attractive place for Christians and Muslims, who all managed to live in one spot together relatively peacefully.

Sightseeing In Berat

🔅 Citadel 🔅 Orthodox Church of St. Mary of Vllaherna 🔅 Lead Mosque 🔅 National Ethnographic Museum 🔅 Iconography Museum 🔅 Bulevardi Republika

Berat is worth walking around and seeing some of the highlights I listed above. Also, don’t forget to try some local delicacies and food, such as  Birek ,  Nocino , and traditional  baklava .

When you’ve seen Berat, we’ll continue driving to Dhermi, a picturesque town on the seaside with many cafes and restaurants, and see a stunning  Zvernec Island  on the way.

Distance Berat ⇒ Zvernec Island: 1 hour & 35 minutes by car (111 km/69 miles)

Zvernec Island

Zvernec is one of the most beautiful places in Albania , and my favorite. Walk through the  100-meter-long wooden bridge  from the mainland towards the monastery on the island. Enjoy the  breathtaking views  of nature around you. 

Apart from its natural beauty, one of the reasons you should visit Zvernec Island is the  local monastery . It holds a lot of religious history and reflects the suffering of Albania during the communist era.

The monastery was closed for over 33 years since the  communist dictator  announced all  religious services and places were illegal  in 1967. Albania then became the first country atheist in the world .

The monastery was reconstructed and reopened after the fall of communism in the country. Nowadays, it’s a pilgrimage site .

💡 PRO TIP: Zvernec Island is located near Vlorë city . Once you drive from Vlorë to the island, you might see some flamingos on the way. When you drive out from the pine forest from Vlorë, pull off the road on the right and see the lake behind a small hill to spot some flamingos.

Drive Through The Llogara Pass

After Zvernec, you’ll drive through the incredible stunning Llogara Pass with spectacular mountains and scenery before descending to Albanian Riviera.

It’s one of the  highlights  of this road trip.

Distance Zvernec Island ⇒ Dhermi: 1 hour & 35 minutes by car (65 km/40 miles)

You now have some of the most beautiful towns on the shores of the Adriatic Sea in front of you, which are part of the Albanian Riviera : Dhermi, Himarë, Borsh, and Sarandë.

Stay Overnight In Dhermi

I highly recommend you stop in  Dhermi  to swim and stay overnight. It’s one of the most beautiful places on the Riviera and a must-visit place in the country.

Enjoy small cafes and a relaxed atmosphere. The advantage of Dhermi is that it’s often less crowded than Sarande and Ksamil in the south, so enjoy the beaches here, too.

PRO TIP: If you don’t like crowds like me, I recommend staying two nights in Dhermi (instead of staying overnight in Ksamil). You can enjoy a beach day tomorrow , and on the next day, visit Sarande with Ksamil & Butrint National Park. Then, continue the itinerary.

Where To Stay In Dhermi: My TOP TIPS For Accommodation

WHITE ROCKS APARTMENTS LA BRISA BOUTIQUE HOTEL ESSOS VILLAS

3. DAY: DHERMI ⇒ SARANDA ⇒ KSAMIL

Today, we’ll enjoy the beautiful Albanian Riviera . It has many beautiful spots and famous places to visit.

You can first explore Saranda and then enjoy the beaches of Ksamil .

Distance Dhermi ⇒ Saranda: 1 hour & 45 minutes by car (69 km/43 miles)

Saranda enjoys around  300 sunny days a year . Therefore, it’s one of the most popular spots for Albanian vacation, chilling beside the sea and enjoying water sports. In addition, Saranda has a port from which you can get to the  Greek Island of Corfu .

The city has beautiful beaches,  great nightlife , many historical sites, and restaurants.

Saranda  used to be part of Greece , then fell under the control of the Byzantine Empire and was also ruled by the Ottomans .

Later on, it was occupied by Greece and Italy . Nowadays, a Greek minority is still living here.

Sightseeing In Saranda

🔅 Hasan Tahsini Boulevard 🔅 Ancient Synagogue Complex 🔅 Lekursi Castle

Experience the city, have a coffee, walk alongside the seaside boulevard, and then drive to Ksamil to enjoy the Albanian beaches. Get a Greek iced cappuccino – it’s delicious :).

Distance Saranda ⇒ Ksamil: 30 minutes by car (14 km/8 miles)

Ksamil – Turkoise Pearl Of Albania

White sand beaches, crystal clear water, and a beautiful seaside paradise… you probably wouldn’t think you could find this place in Albania, right?

Welcome to the  Caribbean of Europe  – Ksamil, also called the  Turkoise Pearl of Albania .    

Ksamil has the most beautiful beaches in all of Albania . But be prepared for crowds in the summertime , especially in July and August, as it’s become trendy over the past years.

As I mentioned, you can also have your beach day in Dhermi if you don’t like crowded places . But, in case you don’t mind, you can stay in Ksmail and enjoy the day here.

Where To Stay In Ksamil: My TOP TIPS For Accommodation

COLOSSEUM HOTEL – 200 away from the beach DUKA’S HOTEL – 300 away from the beach HOTEL SUNWAY – 500 away from the beach SEAS VILLA – apartments 500 away from the beach

4. DAY: KSAMIL ⇒ BUTRINT ⇒ KSAMIL

Good morning to beautiful Ksamil. Today, we’ll have a chilled day, relax on the beach, and eat great seafood. In the afternoon, you can visit the  Butrint National Park , which is full of history. 

Spend this day enjoying the beaches of Ksamil . As I mentioned on day 2. of this itinerary, you can also make a beach day in Dhermi to avoid crowds in Ksamil.

When you’re in Ksamil, I also recommend visiting the Butrint National Park.

Butrint National Park

Butrint hosts some of the most impressive Ottoman fortifications from the 4th century BC. It used to be an ancient Greek and later on a Roman city .

The fortifications are part of the Butrint National Park. Visit it in the afternoon and return to Ksamil, where you will stay overnight before we start driving north of Albania again.

5. DAY: KSAMIL ⇒ BLUE EYE ⇒ GJIROKASTER

Let’s head back north, visiting some of Albania’s most beautiful historical towns. Before we get to the highlight of this day, Gjirokaster, we’ll stop at the Blue Eye. In the Albanian language, it’s called  Syri I Kalter .

Distance Ksamil ⇒ Blue Eye: 50 minutes drive by car (34 km/21 miles)

Blue Eye – Syri I Kalter

Blue Eye is a natural phenomenon in Albania, which has  natural springs  every traveler should witness. Even though swimming is prohibited with the signs around, people jump into its refreshing water anyway.

You can admire the beauty of the oak trees and the nature around.

After a small excursion of the Blue Eye, let’s head further to explore  Gjirokaster , where we’ll sleep tonight.

Distance Blue Eye ⇒ Gjirokaster: 55 minutes drive by car (35 km/22 miles)

The next stop on our road trip is Gjirokaster, the  birthplace of former Albanian communist  leader Enver Hoxha.

He knew why he chose this place to be his hometown – it’s truly beautiful, perhaps my favorite city in Albania . It’s also known as the  city of stones  and thousands of stairs and hosts  the largest castle in Albania .

The city is spectacular, made of stone, and full of history. The town itself has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site . Just walk through and enjoy its unique atmosphere.

Sightseeing In Gjirokaster

🔅 Gjirokaster Castle 🔅 Cold War Tunnel 🔅 Ottoman House 🔅 Zekate House

Explore the castle, which is the largest one in Albania . It offers stunning views of the Albanian mountains and countryside. Pay attention to the Cold War Tunnel , which was used for transporting goods during the Cold War.

After, stroll through the town and admire its Ottoman houses . Zekate House is one of the most beautiful buildings, so check it out. This city is also a great place to buy souvenirs .

Otherwise, enjoy the vibe and have some delicious food and drinks.

Where To Stay In Gjirokaster: My TOP TIPS For Accommodation

KERCULLA RESORT THE STONE SKY HOTEL ARGYROPOLIS BOUTIQUE HOTEL AHMETAJ GUEST HOUSE

6. DAY: GJIROKASTER ⇒ PERMET ⇒ KORCE

Good morning to Gjirokaster. I hope you had the chance to soak up the special atmosphere of this town yesterday. You can still explore it today if you want to.

Then, we’ll continue visiting other beautiful sites in Albania. You’ll experience some of the most breathtaking scenery on the way today.

The first stop will be the  city of roses , where you can buy traditional raki, local fruit brandy, and baths in natural Roman baths .

Afterward, you’ll drive through other spectacular scenery of  the Albanian Canyon  before reaching our destination: Korce, the  cultural capital  of Albania.

Distance Gjirokaster ⇒ Permet: 1 hour & 10 minutes by car (62 km/38 miles)

Permet got its name after the  Albanian hero Premt . The legend says that he chose to take his life rather than lose it in a fight against an enemy. As with other Albanian towns and cities, Permet belonged to the Ottoman Empire , and later on, Greeks took over.

During the Communist period, it was named  ‘The Hero City.’

Nowadays, many locals know it as the city of roses , thanks to the thousands of roses making the town even more charming.

It’s the place to buy  traditional raki  (local fruit brandy), as Permet is where they make it according to the  traditional recipe .

I also recommend trying another Albanian specialty,  ‘Gliko’  (sugary stuff).

Thermal Baths In Permet

Permet is also popular thanks to its  thermal baths  and  Katiu Stone Bridge .

The Katiu Stone Bridge is located 8 km/5 miles from the city, together with the thermal baths. Walk up to the bridge and get stunning views of the surroundings and the gorge.

Afterward, get into the warm  thermal baths  and see if you can benefit from their  therapeutic benefits . Locals say that each of the pots has different benefits for your body, so try it out.

Albanian Canyon

Once you have enough thermal baths, let’s continue to the cultural capital of Albania- Korce .

This  ride is one of the most spectacular on the  road trip. I called this phase  Albanian Canyon . It’s not an official name; I just named it Canyon, lol. The views are stunning, so enjoy it.

Distance Permet ⇒ Korce: 3 hours & 10 minutes by car (133 km/83 miles)

Korce is the  cultural capital of Albania , dating back to the 13th century.

Many people skip the place, and I was considering whether to include it in this itinerary. But then I thought you must really experience the culture here .

I recommend making your way to Korce and enjoying eating on the main square in the old bazaar . It has a special vibe , and the people are super friendly and hospitable. Some people even say it’s the most beautiful city in Albania.

Enjoy the multiple  city bars ,  old bazaars ,  beer gardens , and the culture of this city.

PRO TIP: It’s enough when you just make an overnight stop in Korce . You can spend the morning in Gjirokaster and Permet, arrive in Korce later in the afternoon, and enjoy dinner there.

Sightseeing In Korce

🔅 Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral 🔅 Old Bazaar 🔅 Bulevard Shen Gjergji 🔅 Red Tower – observation deck 🔅 Korce Brewery

If you still haven’t tried  Raki , Korce is also the place. Go to the  Café-Musem Komiteti , where you can taste different types of this traditional fruit brandy.

Between the shots, they’ll serve you passion fruit or rose water , which apparently helps you not getting too drunk .

Where To Stay In Korce: My TOP TIPS For Accommodation

BOCCA HOTEL KORCE CHRISTI’S HOTEL BOROVA PARADISE POINT VILLA ESTER & APARTMENTS

7. DAY: KORCE ⇒ KRUJA ⇒ SHKODRA

Today, we’ll drive from Korce to Shkodra, the  gateway to the Albanian Alps . The drive from Korce to Shkodra is the longest on this road trip. So take your time and make some stops on the way.

What I suggest is to stop in the  historic town of Kruja . You can have lunch there and then continue driving up to Shkodra.

In Shkodra, I recommend staying in one of the best and most unique hotels in Albania .

Distance Korce ⇒ Kruja: 3 hours & 35 minutes by car (200 km/124 miles)

Kruja used to be the  old capital of Albania . It’s a significant city, a  place of the national hero  Skanderbeg. Exactly here,  Skanderbeg fought against the Ottomans , prevented them from spreading further through Albania, and even saved the rest of Central and Western Europe from their influence. 

So give honor to this guy next to his monument here in Kruja. Thanks to him, Europe looks as it does nowadays , with its rich history and diverse architectural sites.

Sightseeing In Kruja

🔅 Pazari I Kruje 🔅 Skanderbeg Museum 🔅 Kruja’s Castle

In Kruja, I suggest visiting Pazari I Kruje , one of the most beautiful markets in the Balkans. It has many great souvenirs, carpets, Turkish coffee cups, and more.

Then, you can learn more about the Albanian national hero in the Skanderbeg Museum . And explore the Kruja Castle .

Have lunch before you drive north to Shkodra , where we’ll stay overnight.

Distance Kruja ⇒ Shkodra: 1 hour & 30 minutes by car (84 km/52 miles)

Where To Stay In Shkodra: My TOP TIPS For Accommodation

In the afternoon, check in to  Tradita Hotel  and enjoy  a traditional Albanian dinner at the local restaurant with  live music . Rest well and enjoy this amazing hotel.

Tomorrow, you can explore Shkodra and rest.

HOTEL TRADITA – my favorite hotel in all of Albania

8. DAY: SHKODRA

Good morning to Shkodra.

Today, you can  enjoy the city  and, most importantly, the traditional hotel you’re staying in. Walk up to the castle and have some rest.

You’ll need it because afterward, we’ll spend the rest of our trip in the spectacular Albanian Alps.

Welcome to  one of the oldest cities in Europe  and a doorstep to a fantastic hiking area in Albania. You’ll notice one strange fact when driving/walking through the city.

Shkodra  doesn’t have any traffic lights .

That’s because, in 1995, the government introduced a law that  imposed taxes  on citizens to pay for traffic lights in their hometowns. Locals didn’t like it , so they eliminated all traffic lights from the city.

Sightseeing In Shkodra

🔅 Rozafa Fortress 🔅 Shkodra Historical Museum 🔅 Shkodra Cathedral 🔅 Ebu Bekr Mosque 🔅 Lake Shkodra

The highlight of Shkodra is its 4000-year-old Rozafa castle . Go up, walk around, learn about the history, and enjoy the stunning views of Albania. You’ll also see Lake Shkodra and even Montenegro in the distance.

After, spend some time strolling through the city center. See the mosque and its cathedral, have a coffee, and relax.

Or drive to Lake Shkodra , a natural border between Albania and Montenegro. It’s beautiful for hiking and kayaking.

Stay overnight in Shkodra and enjoy the unique atmosphere of Hotel Tradita for one more evening.

Tomorrow, we’ll head to the Albanian mountains for some hiking.

9. DAY: SHKODRA ⇒ THETH & ALBANIAN ALPS

Today, we’ are going to’ll head to the picturesque town of  Theth in the Albanian Alps ; another highlight of this itinerary.

I suggest you  spend 2 full days  in the Albanian Alps. So, your itinerary extends to 11 days. On day 12, you’ll drive back to Tirana.

NOTE: Before 2021, the road to Theth was under construction, and travelers had to take minivans. The road is already fully built , and you can now drive to Theth . Yet, it’s narrow in some sections , so you’ll have to give way sometimes.

Distance Shkodra ⇒ Theth: 3 hours & 30 minutes by car (76 km/ 47 miles)

Check-in to your accommodation in Theth, and after, get around for a nice walk or hike.

I recommend visiting the following places and enjoy the  Albanian Alps  at their fullest:

Grunas Waterfall & Theth

One of the easiest walks you can do here in Theth is to walk towards the  Grunas Waterfall . Depending on where you are staying in Theth, it’s about 50 minutes walking distance (3.8km from the center). It’s a nice and easy hike and a great first activity here.

After you return, spend some time walking around Theth and admiring traditional houses. Have some great food, and experience how locals live here.

Another great excursion is to visit the Blue Eye. It’s slightly far away from Theth, and many people take a jeep towards a restaurant, ‘ Lulash Zelna .’

From the restaurant, it’s only a 45-minute walk to the Blue Eye. You can swim in the water and refresh your body after the hike. Then take a jeep from the restaurant back to Theth.

The jeep drive is an experience on its own, and I’m sure you’ll love it.

Where To Stay In Theth: My TOP TIPS For Accommodation

Stay overnight in one of the traditional houses . Enjoy a traditional Albanian dinner with Raki and the fresh air of the mountains.

ROYAL LAND VILLA UJEVARA GURRA FAMILY GUESTHOUSE BUJTINA TINARI THETH

10. DAY: THETH & ALBANIAN ALPS ⇒ TIRANA

Good morning to Albanian Alps. I hope you had a great sleep. Have some wonderful traditional Albanian breakfast .

Today, you can still enjoy the Alps and in the evening, drive back to Tirana.

If you have more time, you can stay a few more nights in Theth and make more excursions to the Vallbona Valley or Komani Lake.

Best Things To Do In Albanian Alps

You can easily spend 5 days exploring the beauties of the Albanian Alps . You can do many other activities and hikes besides the Grunas Waterfall and the Blue Eye.

One of the most popular is the Vallbona Hike across the mountains and crossing the Komani Lake , which is one of the best things to do in Albania .

Or you can simply relax in Theth and enjoy its atmosphere and remoteness.

If you need more inspiration for what to do in those mountains, check out my article about the best things to do in the Albanian Alps by clicking on the image below:

Drive Back To Tirana

This marks the end of our trip. Whenever you want, drive back to Tirana.

Distance Theth ⇒ Tirana: 3 hours & 30 minutes by car (177 km/ 110 miles)

I hope you’ll enjoy your time in Albania with this itinerary as much as I did. As I mentioned, you can customize this 10-day trip , shorten it, or prolong it.

It might seem like a lot to cover in 10 days , but I wanted you to see the best of the country. So feel free to extend it and visit all the places I recommend within 14 days.

Below are the versions for road trips if you have 7 days or 14 days in Albania .

7-Day Albania Road Trip Itinerary

If you only have a week to explore Albania, think about the places you want to see from my basic itinerary.

I suggest either driving to the south and enjoying the beaches. Or if you prefer to visit the mountains, spend some time in the Albanian Alps .

Here is what I recommend you visit on a 7-day trip to Albania to combine the highlights:

14-Day Albania Road Trip Itinerary

If you have 2 weeks to spend in Albania, that’s absolutely perfect. It’s the best time to explore the country. You’ll have enough time to follow the basic itinerary I’ve written above and stay in places you like even more time .

So here is what I recommend doing on a 14-day trip to Albania :

Practical Tips For Visiting Albania

I’ve got some more tips to help you plan your trip to Albania even more. See how many days to spend, the best time to visit, get driving tips, and visa information.

Passport & Visa To Albania

Check the  expiration date of your passport . Most airlines don’t even take you on board if your passport expires in 6 months . Avoid issues with boarding and on the road. Ensure your passport won’t expire in the next 8 months.

Check if you need a Visa to Albania. iVisa will give you detailed information on whether you need a Visa and other necessary documents you might need to travel to Albania.

➡ Click here to see what kind of travel documents you need for Albania . iVisa will help you with Visa.

How Many Days Do You Need To See Albania?

I recommend spending 10 to 14 days in Albania .

10 days is the minimum you’ll need to explore its beauties. And 14 days is the perfect time to enjoy it fully. Albania is one of the most diverse countries in Europe, offering stunning beaches and breathtaking mountains.

It also has an exciting culture and delicious food. So you have to combine it all into your itinerary .

Best Time To Visit Albania

The best time to visit Albania is late May, June, September, and early October . This way, you’ll enjoy more places with fewer crowds, lower prices, and beautiful scenery. The weather is also very pleasant.

The summer months of July and August tend to be the most crowded , especially in the south , where people come for a vacation (Ksamil, Saranda).

I don’t recommend visiting Albania in winter . The landscape is not as pretty, and you can’t go hiking in the Albanian Alps. Winter offers fewer activities and adventures.

Tips For Driving In Albania

I understand that some of you might think Albania’s roads aren’t in good condition, or it’s dangerous to drive around. But let me tell you one thing – driving in Albania is just like in any other Balkan country.

The roads around bigger cities like Tirana, Shkodra, and Sarande can be chaotic . But otherwise, there is nothing to worry about.

Here are my top driving tips for your road trip in the country:

🚔 There is only 1 highway in Albania (A1) , a section from Kosovo to Tirana, where you have to pay a toll – you can pay by cash or card at the toll gate directly on the highway

🚔 Some roads in Albania are very narrow , so you must pay attention and give way

🚔 Most roads are well-developed , only a few in remote areas are in worse conditions, but you can drive through

🚔 Have cash handy (mainly for parking fees)

🚔 Locals sometimes drive super crazy , so be careful

Cost Of A Road Trip In Albania

The budget for a 10-day road trip to Albania per person ( mid-range traveler ) is $895 . This is a very realistic budget for mid-range travelers who want to stay in nice hotels, rent a car and travel conveniently, enjoy the mountains and beaches, and each location’s activities.

Here is a breakdown of this Albanian itinerary budget for each travel category:

Budget Breakdown For Different Traveler Styles

Here is a quick overview of the budget for every type of traveler:

➡ 10-day itinerary budget for backpackers and travelers on the budget: $350 ➡ 10-day itinerary budget for mid-range travelers : $895 ➡ 10-day itinerary budget for luxury travelers : up to $1600

NOTE: This is an approximate budget based on my calculations and spending during my 10-day trip to Albania. The budget will vary based on every traveler’s preferences .

Albanian Official Currency – LEK

Albania uses LEK  as its national currency.  Check the   current exchange rate  for yourself when you visit the country. I always recommend having some LEK cash with you, as many places don’t accept card payments.

Be careful when exchanging money in Albania – only in official places in bigger cities.

💡 PRO TIP: Before exchanging, check the current rate and how much LEK you should get for the amount you want to exchange. Then, exchange the money and count if you were given the right change .

How Much Does A Week In Albania Cost?

A week in Albania costs about $620, including all travel costs , accommodation, rental car, gas, food and drinks, and activities in the country. It’s a realistic budget for a mid-range traveler who wants to enjoy it all in Albania.

Is It Safe To Visit Albania?

Yes , Albania is a safe country to visit. It’s ranked n. 54 in the Safety Index by Global Residence, which is higher than other popular countries like Italy, Germany, Canada, or the Netherlands.

I traveled to Albania as a solo female and felt safe . You’ll be fine if you use your common sense and stay in the touristy areas at night.

People in Albania are friendly and very hospitable. They’re willing to help you if anything goes wrong. So don’t worry; head off to explore this new and exciting culture.

Quick Albanian Food Guide

Albanian agriculture mainly produces corn, vegetables, potatoes, fruits, olives, and grapes and has high cattle breeding. That’s why their traditional food uses mainly meat and  lots of dairy products such as cheese ,  butter , and  yogurt .

They have quite a heavy cuisine but use a lot of fruit, vegetables, and fresh products , which I loved.

Albanians are famous for making their fruit brandy called  ‘Raki.’  They have different types, such as grape, plumb, apple, apricot, etc. You must experience  wine and raki tasting  and try different types of cheese and meat. The best place to do so is Korce .

When you make it to the Albanian Alps , they’ll serve you homemade bread with butter and  homemade marmalades  (the most popular are fig or apricot marmalade) for breakfast.

Dishes & Drinks You Must Try

Here are a couple of dishes and drinks you have to try when traveling to Albania:

🥧 Byrek – typical Balkan food – pastry with spinach and cheese 🥧 Fergese – made from pepper, tomatoes, and cottage cheese 🥧 Tave Kosi – most beloved dish by locals – quiche-like made from lamb, eggs, and yogurt 🥧 Fried Kackavall – yellow salty cheese 🥧 Trilece – the name comes from Spanish – cake from three kinds of milk 🥧 Qofte – grilled meatballs with spices, served with raw onion

Also, don’t forget to try the following local drinks and liquors:

🥂 Raki – traditional alcoholic drink produced from any fruit, most famous is from berries or plumbs – they drink it after or before meals, even in the morning 🥂 Boze – made from corn, wheat flour, sugar, and water 🥂 Dhalle – salty, liquid yogurt, mainly consumed during summer 🥂 Amaro – sweet liquor made from fruits such as blueberry, or cherry 🥂 Beer – try Blonde Beer with a sweet taste in Tirana

FAQs: Road Tripping Albania

I’ve also answered some of the frequently asked questions. Check my answers below:

Is Albania A Cheap Country To Visit?

Yes , Albania is a very cheap country to visit, one of the cheapest in Europe. As a mid-range traveler , you can spend approx. $80 per day in Albania , including all costs (accommodation, rental car, gas, food and drinks, and activities).

How Long Does It Take To Drive Around Albania?

It takes approx. 20 hours to drive around the entire Albania without stopping . If you want to make a road trip and enjoy the places along the way, it takes approx. 2 weeks to complete .

Is It Easy To Drive In Albania?

Yes, it’s fairly easy to drive in Albania . Some roads are very narrow and curvy , which can be more difficult to navigate. Also, locals drive a bit crazy, so be careful. Yet, most of the roads are well-developed and driving in Albania is easy and beautiful.

Is It Safe For US Citizens To Travel To Albania?

Yes, it’s safe for US citizens to travel to Albania. Despite many people commenting Albania is a dangerous country, I disagree. I spent 10 days traveling around Albania as a solo female traveler and always felt safe. Locals are friendly and you’ll love the experience.

Is Croatia Or Albania Cheaper?

Albania is cheaper than Croatia by almost 50% . Albania is one of the cheapest countries in Europe and the Balkans. So, if you’re looking for a cheap vacation or travel adventure, go to Albania, not Croatia.

WRAP-UP: Albania Itinerary

This is my Albanian itinerary and road trip for you. I hope you’ll get the most out of this stunning country. I must admit – after visiting, I’ve put it on my list of the top 3 most beautiful countries in Europe . And I’m sure you’ll love it, too. Take your time, immerse yourself in the culture and natural beauties, and have fun.

If you have any questions or need help planning your trip , contact me at info(at)voicesoftravel.com . I’ll gladly help you. Or check out my favorite travel resources and plan by yourself.

Happy Travels!

More Tips For Albania Travel

Looking to visit more places in Albania? Check out my related articles:

23 Amazing Things To Do In Albania

23 Most Beautiful Places To Visit In Albania

How To Get Around Albania: Local Buses, Taxis & Prices

Albanian Alps: Complete Guide For Your Visit & Itinerary

12 Best Day Trips From Tirana Albania

Is Albania Safe For Solo Female? My Experience

About the author: Nicoletta  is a travel enthusiast and passionate language learner. While traveling, she loves to connect with locals using her language skills to learn about new cultures. Look for her skiing, hiking in the mountains, or exploring new destinations as she designs travel itineraries for her clients.

ALBANIA : Interested in more articles for Albania? Check out my Albania Travel Page :

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Ultimate Albania Road Trip Itinerary: 10 Essential Stops

If you’re looking for an amazing and affordable travel destination, then look no further than Albania.

This small country in Europe has a lot to offer tourists, from its stunningly beautiful coastline and amazing beaches to its rich history filled with fascinating archaeological sites and historical towns.

You’ll be able to enjoy a diverse array of activities on your Albania itinerary, from hiking in the mountains to exploring ancient ruins.

Albania makes an excellent holiday destination for those who like to explore off-the-beaten path!

Also Read:  Best European Road Trips to Take Now 17 Best Cities to Visit in Europe

Albania Road Trip: Essential Stops

Did you know that Albania is a hidden gem in Europe?

This under-the-radar country is full of stunning landscapes, spectacular scenery, delicious food, beautiful beaches, and friendly people.

On an Albania road trip, you can enjoy stunning and dramatic scenery in Europe, from towering mountains and dark forests to pristine lakes and sweeping coastlines.

Here are the best places to visit and essential stops on any Albanian road trip.

Tirana is the capital of Albania.

Tirana is an amazing city with many fascinating buildings and museums that visitors will enjoy exploring.

From its bustling markets to its charming architecture, there’s something for everyone in this vibrant city.

Be sure to check top attractions including Skanderbeg Square located in the city centre, National History Museum, and the Pyramid of Tirana.

Tirana is also an excellent place to sample traditional Albanian food.

The Blue Eye of Albania is a natural wonder that tourists should not miss when visiting the country.

This strikingly blue body of water is a natural pool located in the town of Theth, and it is easy to get to from Tirana.

Theth is a picturesque village nestled in the mountains, and the drive there offers beautiful views.

As you approach The Blue Eye, you will see a large sign marking the spot.

There is ample parking, and visitors can enjoy a pleasant walk down to the lake.

Don’t forget your camera! This natural wonder is sure to amaze you.

Gjirokaster is a charming town in southern Albania that is known for its well-preserved Ottoman architecture.

It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and essential for history lovers.

There are many things to do in Gjirokaster, including exploring the city’s old bazaar, visiting the castle on top of the hill, and meandering through the narrow streets lined with stone houses.

Gjirokaster is also home to several museums.

The locals are friendly and welcoming, making it a great place to explore and learn about Albanian culture.

Butrint National Park is a must-see for tourists who visit Albania.

The park, located in the south of the country, is home to beautiful lakes and ancient ruins.

Visitors can hike or bike through the park, or take a boat ride on one of the lakes.

There are also many archaeological sites to explore in Butrint National Park, making it a fascinating destination for history lovers.

We definitely recommend adding the park to your Albania road trip itinerary.

Ksamil, Albania is a hidden gem in the Mediterranean.

With crystal-clear turquoise waters and stunning beaches, it’s easy to see why this town has become a popular tourist destination on the Albanian coast.

Popular activities include swimming, sunbathing on the beach, and exploring the nearby ruins.

You can also enjoy a trip down the Albanian Riviera from Ksamil or just relax in the city.

Albanian Riviera

The Albanian Riviera is a hidden coastline gem in southeastern Europe.

It extends from Vlore in north to Ksamil in the south.

With crystal-clear waters, sandy beaches, and Roman ruins nearby, it’s no wonder this stretch of the Adriatic Sea is a popular vacation spot for tourists from all over the world.

Popular destinations on the Albanian Riviera include Saranda, Himara, Porto-Palermo, and the secluded Gjipe Beach.

To reach the destinations, you will be driving along State Highway 8 or the Coastal Highway.

This is one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the world and offers stunning views.

Nestled in the alps of Northern Albania lies the small city of Shkoder.

While it may be a small city, there is plenty to do for tourists looking for an adventure.

From exploring ancient ruins, mosques, and monasteries to activities such as river rafting, there are plenty of attractions for visitors in this charming city.

The Albanian Alps are also perfect place for hiking.

The coastal town of Saranda sits on the Ionian Sea.

It’s a popular tourist destination, thanks to its Mediterranean atmosphere, crystal-clear waters, and miles of sandy beaches.

Saranda also has a rich history, which you can explore by visiting its ancient ruins and churches.

Kruje, located north of Tirana, is a popular tourist destination for visitors looking to experience Albanian culture and history.

There are many things to do in the medieval town of Kruje, from exploring the old city fortress and bazaar to participating in local festivals.

Kruje is also great for walking through the winding streets and admiring the architecture, to sampling traditional Albanian cuisine and exploring the nearby nature reserves.

Berat is another UNESCO World Heritage Site worth visiting in Albania.

Explore Berat Fortress which was built during Ottoman rule.

Spend a day touring the nearby wineries and enjoy the charming alleys of Old Town Berat.

Albania road trip is an amazing experience.

This beautiful country is home to a variety of interesting attractions, including stunning mountain scenery, crystal-clear lakes, and fascinating ancient ruins.

We hope you liked our Albania Road Trip Itinerary post.

Did we miss any amazing places to see on the Albania road trip? Let us know in the comments.

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Home > Epic One Week In Albania Itinerary: 7 Day Road Trip 

Epic One Week In Albania Itinerary: 7 Day Road Trip 

Written by our local expert Guru

Written by a local specialist we know and trust to bring you the most up-to-date travel information.

This is the best Albania itinerary. We list how you can spend 7 days in Albania. Where to go, what to see, and how long to stay in each place. 

Skip Ahead To My Advice Here!

Albania should be on top of your list if you are looking for an affordable, offbeat summer destination that combines pristine nature, enchanting castles, idyllic beaches, and recent history together!

Singing cicadas in pine trees, turquoise water, friendly people, and some of the Balkans’ best food —this post will give you ideas on how to spend seven days in this (wrongfully) underrated country!

Albania is a small mountainous country in Southeast Europe that belongs  to the Balkans . It has access to the Adriatic and Ionian coastlines and a Muslim majority. Furthermore, the country’s only Nobel Prize winner (born in the now-capital of Macedonia) , Mother Teresa, was Albanian!

Hiring a rental car is the best option to get the most out of one week in Albania, especially if you like to explore places and want a total road trip. Prices start from as low as 20 Euro per day and include insurance. 

The Albanian public transport system is another option if you are more money-conscious (& adventurous). You mainly find buses and furgons (shared minibusses) that work reasonably well, connecting most cities with each other.

Book your car rental in Albania here.

This 1 week Albania itinerary will provide distances and timings for both options.

One Week Itinerary For Albania

Let us help you make your Albania travel itinerary action-packed and enjoyable.

Experience Diverse Tirana

Tirana, Albania’s capital, is a refreshing city with a mix of colorful Ottoman architecture, street markets, and a hip food scene. Walking within the city center is easy, and there is enough to explore for at least 2-3 days! Many of Tirana’s sights are within close proximity to each other.

How To Get Into Tirana

Tirana can be easily reached by plane from every major European city. The international airport is well-connected and is only 17 km from the city center . A shuttle bus (called Rinas Express) drops you off in the middle of the city. The ride takes roughly 30 minutes and costs 250 leks (2 euros).

Alternatively, you can take a taxi for 2500 lek (20 euros), which would take around 20 – 25 minutes, or get your rental car from the airport.

Tip: Bring some  cash in Euros to pay for the fare and change it later in the city rather than at the airport.

Highlights Of Tirana For Your Albania Itinerary

For a complete list of what to do and see in Tirana, see here . These are my must-see sights, and we suggest you add them to your itinerary in Albania. 

Skanderbeg Square

The central plaza in the center of Tirana covers an area of 40.000 sq. m. and houses many major sights of the city, including the National Opera, the Palace of Culture, the National Historical Museum, the famous Clock Tower, and the City Hall. Join a free walking tour to learn about Albanian history from the source!

Bunk’Art Museum

If you ever wanted to visit a real bunker, you have the chance to do so in Tirana. The Bunk’Art museum is a highlight when visiting the city. Converted from a Cold War bunker, it spreads over 3000 sq meters underground. It lets you discover dark tunnels, private chambers, and exhibitions of contemporary art.

Take the City Centre – Porcelan bus line near the Clock Tower.

Et’hem Bey Mosque

A stunning city landmark, the little Et’hem Bey Mosque depicts waterfalls, trees, and other motifs not usually shown in Islamic art.

Where To Stay In Tirana

Situated in an old 1930s-era villa, Padam Hotel is one of Tirana’s most stylish boutique hotels, with one of the Balkan’s best restaurants on site. For a social and cheap stay, opt for Trip’n Hostel near Skanderbeg Square.

For a full list of places to stay in Tirana, check here.

Where to eat in tirana.

No itinerary for Albania would be complete without information on where to eat.

For some of the luxurious Albanian cuisine sourced directly from small farmers, head to Mullixhiu. Enjoy panoramic views of the town from a rotating restaurant at The Sky Bar, and make sure to try Rakija , Albania’s national drink! If you are after a cheap, traditional meal, go to Oda – Traditional Albanian Cuisine and try their stuffed peppers !

Check here for a full list of our favorite places to eat and drink in Tirana.

How to get out of tirana.

After your week in Albania, the most convenient way to leave town is by rental car . Tirana has no central bus station yet, but three terminals are distributed throughout the city.

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Day trip to historical shkodër.

Tirana – Shkodër: 1 hour 50 minutes by car | 2 hours by bus

One of the oldest cities in Europe, Shkodër is a real gem that quickly enchants you with its cultural heritage. Many poets, artists, musicians, and photographers were born there, serving as the gateway to the Albanian Alps .

Get Into Shkodër

Get settled into your rental car and make your way up north early in the morning. Buses from Tirana towards Shkodër leave roughly every hour and cost around 500 leks (4 euros). Head to Zogu I Zi, and you’ll find the furgon bus stop nearby.

Highlights of Shkodër

Rozafa castle.

The Rozafa Castle is a special place and a must-see when in Shkodër—a legend accompanying it that a woman had to be sacrificed to finish it.

Price: 200 leks (1.50 euro)

Lake Skadar

On a sunny day, hire a bike to cycle along the shores of the beautiful Lake Skadar . It’s a great half-day trip that leads you past fishing villages and carpet weavers and rewards you with the best scenic views!

Price: 9 euros | Duration: 3.5 hours

Venice Art Mask Factory

If you are after something very unique, go and visit the Venice Art Mask Factory. It has the most diverse and magnificent collection of Venetian masks! Each mask is a unique piece of art that went through the hands of 12 to 13 professionals. Just stunning!

Where To Eat In Shkodër

Settled in a beautiful old villa, Vila Bekteshi offers outdoor seating and outstanding traditional food . For some tasty, reasonably priced seafood, head to Rozafa Sea Food and try their octopus!

Tirana To Berat

Tirana – Berat: 1 hour 45 minutes (123km) by car | 2 hours 15 minutes by bus

To continue your journey towards Berat, take a bus from the Terminali i Autobusave të Veriut dhe Jugut for around 500 leks (4 euro). Berat, “The Town of a Thousand Windows,” as it’s lovingly called, is an absolute  must-visit . A prime example of Albanian architecture, Berat is a UNESCO world heritage site over 2,400 years old.

How To Get Into Berat

Berat: Take a bus from Terminali i Autobusave të Veriut dhe Jugut for around 500 leks (4 euros) to Terminali i Autobuzave të Jugt for buses going to the North and South of Albania. They regularly leave towards Berat and the coast for around 400 leks (3.25 euros).

The bus will stop at Terminali i Autobuzave Berat, from which you will take another local bus to the center.

Highlights Of Berat

Berat castle.

Towering over the city, Berat Castle (or the Citadel of Berat) is a well-preserved fortress with many Ottoman mosques and Byzantine churches. You get the city’s best panoramic views and the Osum River from the courtyard.

Unlike other castles, there is still a fully functioning town inside the castle! One with houses, bars, restaurants, churches, and museums. Don’t miss this one!

Price: 300 leks (2.45 euro)

Mangalem Area

Mangalem, a traditionally Muslim area, lies at the bottom of Berat Castle. It’s most famous for its three mosques and the Ethnographic Museum, which features artifacts from the Ottoman period.

Tip: For the perfect photo opportunity of Mangalem’s white Ottoman houses, head over the bridge into the Gorica area.

Where To Stay In Berat

For a cheap stay in a 300-year-old UNESCO house with many original features, book a night in Berat Backpackers. If staying a night in the castle intrigues you, book a room in the traditional Hotel Klea.

For a full list of places to stay in Berat, check here.

Where to eat in berat.

A unique dining experience, Homemade Food Lili is a restaurant run from the owner’s family home. There are only 3-5 tables, so make sure to arrive early – it’s worth it! For a wallet-friendly option serving vegan options , head to Temi Albanian Food.

Adventure Day Trip To Osum Canyon In Çorovodë

Berat – Çorovodë: 1 hour by car

Çorovodë is not only a convenient stopover on your way to the Albanian Riviera , but it also is a must-stop for every adventure and watersport lover! A tour through the Osum Gorge is one of Albania’s most exciting activities. The Osum Gorge is 26km long, with many unexplored caves and underground passages .

One way of exploring this natural attraction is going on a rafting tour. Rafting through the gorge allows you to explore the imposing Bogova Waterfall and impressive vertical slopes ranging up to 80 meters. The rapids are considered a Class II, which means no prior white water experience is needed – perfect!

Another option is to put on your hiking shoes and go on a guided walk through the gorge, with spectacular vistas of the surrounding area guaranteed!

Where To Stay In Çorovodë

To extend your time (and spend a night) in Çorovodë, think about ending your day at the Nurellari Winery Cellar and Guest House. The family-owned winery offers beautiful tours around the winery, followed by a wine tasting . They also serve delicious traditional food! Why not spend a night at their adjacent guest house?

Berat To Sarandë

Çorovodë – Sarandë: 3 hours 15 min or Berat – Sarandë: 3 hours 30 min

Considered the unofficial capital of the Albanian Riviera, Sarandë is the perfect place for a summer getaway . If you are looking for pristine beaches , some vitamin sea, and a thriving nightlife – Sarandë has got all of this and more!

How To Get Into Sarandë

Two buses run from Berat to Sarandë, around 8 am and the other around 2.30 pm from the main bus stop. The bus will take 5-6 hours, with a visit to Girokaster , and costs 1200 lek (9.70 euro).

If you want to rent a car once in Sarandë, check here for tips.

Highlights of sarandë, ksamil beach.

Ksamil Beach, with its clear turquoise water, could easily be mistaken for a beach in a tropical country. This gem on the Ionian Sea is a famous summer destination for locals and tourists alike. The area comprises many small coves wrapped around a jagged coastline.

Easily the most romantic of Albania’s ancient sites , a visit to the UNESCO site of Butrint should definitely come onto your list! Settled within a national park , the ruins have been inhabited since prehistoric times. They used to be Greek colony sites and Roman cities. Only 20 km from the city, it takes around 2-3 hours to explore.

Price: 700lek (5.70 euro)

Buses from Sarandë leave outside the ZIT Information Centre on the hour and take 20 minutes.

Price: 100 leks (0.80 euro).

Tip: Try to visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid the cruise ship tourists !

Where To Stay In Sarandë

For a hostel with great views, friendly hosts, and 20 meters from the sea, choose Hairy Lemon Hostel. For a top-notch 4-star hotel on the beach, with breathtaking views of the ocean and in proximity to many bars, book at night at Hotel Brilant.

For a full list of places to stay in Saranda, check here

Where to eat in sarandë.

For an authentic meal or coffee next to the ocean, head to Limani Bar & Restaurant. This family-owned restaurant offers fine Mediterranean dining since 1998. Dishes are cheap, and portion sizes are big, a win-win! To see the sunset, try SunSet Saranda Restaurant.

How To Get Out Of Sarandë

The most convenient way to end a fantastic week in Albania is to leave from Corfu, Greece . From Sarande, you can take a ferry (70 minutes) or a speedboat (30 minutes) to Corfu to catch your flight back home.

Whatever option you choose, make sure to leave enough time between leaving Albania and getting to the airport two hours ahead of your scheduled flight!

Depending on the season, 2 – 13 departures are available, and ticket prices range from 18 to 24 euros. Three different companies operate the lines, so check for times for each individually: Ionian Seaways , Finikas Lines, or Joy Lines.

From the Port of Corfu , it takes only 15 minutes to the Corfu airport. An airport taxi costs around 15-20 euros and operates 24/7. Bus Line no. 15 costs 1.5 euros, takes about 20 minutes and runs between 7.50 am and 9.50 pm.

Hopefully, this post gives you enough ideas on how to spend seven wonderful, relaxing, adventurous, and history-packed days in this Balkan gem .

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Driving In Albania Overview

Driving in Albania can be an adventure all its own, and a car in Albania is your ticket to discovering the hidden gems this country has to offer.

Roads vary from the well-paved to the more adventurous types, making a trip around Albania exciting. Google Maps is a trusty companion but be prepared for the occasional detour that turns into an unexpected highlight of your journey.

Renting a car for your trip allows you to explore secluded beaches or quaint villages at your own pace. Remember, driving in Albania means you’ll pass breathtaking landscapes, so keep your camera ready. Just be sure to have travel insurance that covers driving in Albania, as it’ll give you peace of mind while you navigate the roads less traveled.

When it comes to safety, Albania is one of those underrated destinations that’s much safer than you might expect. Like any trip abroad , common sense is your best travel guide; keeping an eye on personal belongings and staying aware of your surroundings goes a long way.

Albania’s welcoming locals add to the feeling of security. However, don’t skip on travel insurance. It’s not just about safety; it’s about peace of mind. Whether you’re sunbathing right on the beach or exploring the old town of one of the cities in Albania, knowing you’re covered makes all the difference.

Albania’s charm lies not just in its landscapes but also in its ability to make you feel at home. It is a perfect one-week getaway or even a 10-day trip to dive deeper into its culture.

How Many Days In Albania?

Deciding how many days to spend in Albania isn’t easy, given all it has to offer. A perfect itinerary ranges from a compact 7 days to a more leisurely 10 days, allowing you to soak in the best of Albania.

With 7 hours, you can explore the beauty of the Blue Eye or spend an afternoon at the beach in one of Albania’s stunning beach towns. For those with more time, extending your stay to 10 days lets you delve deeper into places like the beautiful old town areas or the serene beaches in Albania, ensuring you experience the ultimate Albania.

Each day brings a new adventure, whether it’s Day 1 in the bustling capital or Day 7 when you find yourself in a great place known for its sensational views . Remember, whether it’s a quick trip or a longer stay, Albania promises to be one of the most memorable parts of your travel diary.

Final Word On Your Albania Travel Itinerary

Wrapping up your 7 days in Albania, it’s clear this trip is the perfect one-week escape to one of the most beautiful corners of Europe, from the serene waters of Gjipe Beach, a favorite for anyone seeking beautiful beaches, to the historical depths.

Your Albania trip will be a blend of relaxation and discovery.

Remember, while seven days can give you a taste of Albania, don’t be surprised if you find yourself dreaming of what 10 days in Albania could offer. This Albania travel guide was just the beginning; the rest of the journey awaits.

• 21 Ideas On Where To Go In Albania
• The Must-See Sights In Albania With Kids
• Guide To Albania’s National Parks
• Ultimate List Of Things To Do In Albania
• Explore The City Of Tirana, Albania
• Hotels Along The Albanian Riviera
• Top Things To Do In Saranda
• Our Top Picks For Albania Accommodation
• Things To See And Do In Albania In Winter
• Guide For The Theth To Valbona Hike

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Albania Road Trip: The Perfect Itinerary to Europe’s True Hidden Gem

If there was only one true hidden gem travel destination in Europe, Albania would be it.

Being a compact country, it’s generously blessed with pristine sandy beaches that rival Greece, dramatic Balkan mountainscapes, deep river canyons and fascinating history. Not to mention the very respectable cuisine, lots of fresh seafood and the thousands of abandoned bunkers dotted across the country that alone make this country stand out from the rest. 

And all this at less than half the expenses of visiting its more glamorous seaside neighbours Croatia and Greece.

So what gives? Like the best underrated destinations, Albania is still shaking off a negative reputation (the film “Taken” didn’t exactly help!) – so make the most of this fascinating country now, before the rest of Europe realises what they’ve been missing out on!

Suggested Albania Itinerary

This road trip itinerary focuses on Southern half of Albania for the best of its seaside and the unique inland cities. It’s best done by car in 7-10 days (of course, add more if you have the luxury of time off!). Starting in Tirana, head anticlockwise along the coast. Or to be honest, a clockwise itinerary works too depending on how desperate you are for the beaches.

Tirana – the Capital

While by no means the highlight of Albania, the capital Tirana will probably be where you start and end the epic trip, so you’ll probably want to spend a night or two in the city.

Tirana is a lively capital with a fairly ugly façade but enough things to visit, savour and drink. Introduce yourself to the country by enjoying a raki at the Komiteti Kafe-Museum . And make sure to spend some time in the upscale Blloku area. Formerly home of the Communist elite, it’s now the artsy part of town with the best choice of restaurants, cafes and nightclubs.

Visit a bunker!  In the decades ruled by the paranoid dictator Enver Hoxha, Albania was covered with over 170,000 concrete bunkers, built in fear of enemy invasion that never came (if only the money was spent on better roads…). While Hoxha is long gone,the bunkers remained spread across the country and some have been converted. One such is Bunk’Art (and Bunk’Art 2), an underground history museum and art gallery.

Curiously, one of the main landmarks of the capital is the dilapidated Pyramid of Tirana – once a museum dedicated to the aforementioned leader it’s now a thing you walk up. Plans are in place to renovate the eyesore, so by the time you visit the city who knows what it will be.

Zvërnec Island

As you make your way South from Tirana, make a stop at Zvërnec near the seaside city of Vlorë. A wooden footbridge invitingly winds its way to the picturesque Zvërnec Island, home to a tall pinetree forest and a Byzantine-period St Mary’s Monastery. Be sure to stay for some lunch and a glass of local wine in the village of Zvërnec.

Llogara Pass

The zigzaggy Llogara Pass connects Vlorë to the Albanian Riviera and is one of the most panoramic coastal drives you’ll come across in Europe. Despite the switchbacks and climbing to over 1,000m, the road is in a good condition and it never felt particularly treacherous so long as you’re not too distracted by the views. Make sure to stop and admire some of the abandoned bunkers with the inviting Ionian Sea backdrop.

As you descend down Llogara Pass, you enter the so-called Albanian Riviera. If you’re into beaches, this Riviera is the caviar of Albania that makes it a true hidden gem of Europe. 

Curiously, much of this region feels pretty much exactly like Greece, but cheaper and with fewer tourists. The towns of Dhërmi and Himarë, and pretty much everything in-between, are very much Greek. Greek place names, Greek churches, countless Greek tavernas, every other guy is named Nikos. Eternally protected by the surrounding terrain, this is the only strip of Albania not conquered by the Ottoman Empire and so managing to preserve its Greek identity.

The cute seaside town of Himarë was my personal favourite, and a perfect base to explore the hills or the countless beautiful beaches. If I had just one recommendation for the entire trip, it would be that you rent a private (captained) boat from Himara Seas the Day . It’s not expensive and you get to spend a few hours exploring and swimming in the crystal clear waters, reaching secluded beaches, pirate caves and an abandoned submarine bunker at Porto Palermo.

Besides the boat trip, you’re spoilt for choice as far as beaches go. The most famous are at Drymades, Jale and Dhërmi – the latter requires a sweaty hike, but this in turn filters out the crowds. For easy access you also have the very long beach at the appetisingly-named Borsh further to the South. 

The resort town of Sarandë at the Southern end of the Riviera impresses as a tightly-packed, bustling place. It’s the type of destination that triples in size in the peak tourist months. Being near more glorious beaches, the Ksamil Islands, Butrint and the Blue Eye, it makes for a great base for a day or two.

For sunset, head up the (slightly hair-raising) road to Lekursi Castle – won’t judge if you take a taxi up. It’s an idyllic spot to sip a cocktail and enjoy the sun setting over Sarandë, with the Greek island of Corfu seemingly at touching distance just across the strait. (And yes, you can take a ferry onwards onto Corfu if you feel like combining it into the trip).

In the evening, there’s nothing like a stroll alongside the long seaside promenade and indulging in fresh seafood to make you feel like you’re on a proper Mediterranean holiday. 

For a change, time for a brief break from all the beaches and a little history instead. Butrint is a once-mighty ancient settlement and now a gem of an archaeological site spread across a peninsula. Expect the full Roman ruin package, enough to be recognised by UNESCO: amphitheatre, baths, columns, mosaics. Coming from Sarandë, take the inner road SH98, cross the cute ferry and head back the coastal route stopping at some beaches on the way.

The Blue Eye

On the way from Sarandë to Gjirokaster lies The Blue Eye, known here as Syri i Kalter. A deep blue vividly contrasting the shallow turquoise, this natural spring comes from so deep underground that no one knows quite how deep. What we do know is that it brings up freezing cold water no matter the season, handy if you feel like a crude break from the searing summer heat (for me a toe dip sufficed). As it’s a small spectacle, crowds can build up in the busier summer periods. So head there first thing in the morning ideally on a weekday, have a coffee (and maybe a dive!), and drive onto Gjirokastra.

Gjirokastra

This UNESCO-recognised stone city is a must on your itinerary, and a good option for an overnight stay. 

Once you’ve explored the cute cobbled streets of the Old Town, the fortress that dominates over the city is more than worth the climb up. You are sure to enjoy some fantastic views of Gjirokastra and the looming mountainscapes across the valley, but there’s more to it. This fortress is abound with history. It’s lived for centuries through invading empires and even dictators who turned it into a prison. Amongst the random collection of captured military artefacts from those days you’ll even find a US fighter plane.

Drive onto Berat from Gjirokastra, making sure you take the longer-looking route E853 via Fier. You’ll thank me. The tempting SH74 that’s marked an “A road” on the map eventually turns into a rocky gravel track so unless you have a 4×4 – avoid!

Berat is a unique, charming city you might just feel is your favourite in Albania. With its large wooden Ottoman-era windows dominating the hilly cityscape, Berat is literally known as the “City of a Thousand Windows.

When you’ve done wandering the cobbled streets of the old town and the old Gorica Bridge, make your way up to the castle (or what’s left of it) for some incredible views. But why stop that – ever wanted to stay in a castle without paying a fortune? Don’t pass up on the chance to stay in a beautiful stone house right in the heart of the castle . 

Osumi Canyons

A couple hours’ drive from Berat are the incredibly picturesque canyons of the Osum river, the same river that flows through the city. It’s the most off-the-beaten-track part of this itinerary.

Depending on the time of the year, the river can be perfect for rafting, kayaking or river walking if the levels are low. Having visited in August, we could only opt for the latter – arranged with a company who sorted a guide and transport. We loved the experience as you walk and float on your back past the waterfalls and pristine diving spots. If you’re doing this DIY, stop over for lunch at Bogovë on the way back.

When is best to visit Albania?

May to July or September would be the best months to visit Albania. These months give you a very good chance of mostly sunny, warm days. August is also game especially if you’re focusing on hiking in the higher terrain, but keep in mind the heat can otherwise get pretty intense and the crowds do tend to build up on the coastal towns, as is normal across most of Europe.

Pretty much. Locals are almost always warm and friendly, keen to make your Albanian visit as positive as possible. At no point did I feel any less safe than walking around in London – just keep a wary eye out as you would anywhere else.

That said, when the same locals get behind the wheel, some can be quite aggressive (see below), so take extra care on the roads.

Not gonna lie – Albania isn’t the safest place in the world for driving, but still totally doable. The main thing to watch out for is aggressive, careless drivers. There seems to be an unwritten rule that if you own a big, expensive-looking car then you are the king of the road. Free from following the usual road rules. So always keep an eye out for those.

The other part is the road condition: careful with using Google Maps. One ‘A’ road can be a brand new, smooth highway and yet another, also marked as an highway, can turn out little more than a boulder-covered dirtroad. Then there are often roadworks and road closures. So my main tip is to ask the locals (and save yourself some time having to backtrack like we ended up doing).

I hope this travel guide helps you plan your trip across this fascinating off-the-beaten-track country. If you have any questions or suggestions, leave a comment below.

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Albania: The Ultimate 6-Day Road Trip Itinerary (Super Affordable!)

I’ve noticed something strange about travel to the Balkans – people seem to flock to Croatia , Montenegro, or even head to Greece , but they often skip Albania.

Naturally, this made me curious – is there a reason for this? Should I be visiting Albania at all?

After being absolute enthralled by Croatia’s beauty on a previous 8-day roadtrip , I decided I had to give Albania a chance. And oh boy, I’m glad I did.

Being less visited means Albania is such an affordable destination

As I started booking everything in Albania, I realized just how awesome this was. I stayed in the best-rated hotels in each town for not more than 40 Euro a night, paid 15 Euro a day for my rental car through Hertz , and had super cheap flights in and out the country. And I didn’t even try.

When I walked out the best restaurant in Tirana after a 5-course meal having paid less than $25, I came to a radical conclusion about Albania: it’s one of the most underrated countries I’ve ever been to.

The Most Epic Road Trip Itinerary to Explore Albania in 6 Days

There’s so much to see an do on a road trip around Albania, but I truly feel 6 days is the sweet spot to maximize your time here.

Day 1: Tirana : by foot and by taste bud Day 2: Berat | An insanely quintessential Byzantine mountain city & the most epic Albanian waterfall all to yourself Day 3: Epic Canyoning at Kanionet e Osumit Day 4: Gjirokaster : sleeping in a fairytale castle surrounded by amazing scenery Day 5: Butrit , Himare , & Orikum : incredible Albanian Riviera beaches, fortresses, and fantastic views Day 6: Krujë : an epic final castle visit before flying home

If you end up with an extra day or two, head to the Mesi bridge in Shkoder right on the border with Croatia! If you want to continue onto Serbia, Kosovo, and North Macedonia, make sure to read about my previous epic Balkans road trip .

Note: if you have less than 6 days and land early in the day, I would skip Tirana. I found it the least interesting city in Albania.

Alternative 6-Day Albania Road Trip Itinerary

If you’re looking for more of an inland and authentic Albanian experience in only 6 days, this alternative itinerary is perfect for that.

Day 1: Krujë Day 2: Orikum Day 3: Gjirokaster Day 4: Korce & Prespa National Park Day 5: Berat Day 6: Tirana

Visiting Tirana: a booming capital

A booming a flourishing city, Tirana is quickly becoming a center of attention in the Balkans. If anything, it’s a great metaphor for all of Albania.

Healing from a brutal civil war and a decade of government corruption and financial failure in the 90s leading to a population decline of over 40%, Albania has reeled itself back from the brink year after year.

And Tirana , now witnessing the moving in of giant hotel brands, new massive parks being built, and a flourishing of restaurants and shopping, is truly becoming a city of hope and proof that tenacity works. Albanians, if anything, are tenacious.

So let’s explore this fine Balkan city, and see everything it has to offer.

The Top 9 Places You Need to See in Tirana

From a unique Cold War bunker turned art museum to a castle, Tirana has a quirky charm that’s hard to resist.

• BUNK’ART – former Cold War bunker turned into a contemporary art & history museum
• Et’hem Bej Mosque – a beauty and gem, particularly at night
• The Tirana Castle ( Kalaja e Tiranës ) – a castle dating to the 13th century turned into a shopping and dining alley
• Resurrection Cathedral – One of the largest Eastern Orthodox churches in the Balkans
• House of Leaves Museum – Actually the house of secret surveillance, it’s one of the most unique museums in the world
• The National Historical Museum – 27,000+ square meters filled with expos
• Grand Park of Tirana – Hiking paths with sprawling views of Tirana, cafes, and an artificial lake
• Dajti Express – A cable car just outside the city with epic views
• Skanderbeg Square – The central square of the city, showcasing beautiful monuments and lined with restaurants. Make sure to head up the clock tower!

$  Garden Boutique B&B

$$ Metro Hotel Tirana

$$$ The Plaza : The best hotel in Tirana

The Top 5 Places to Eat Authentic Albanian Food in Tirana

• Ceren Ismet Shehu – A wonderful 5-dish menu of local food, and my favorite in Tirana.
• Tymi Ver Reci – Best kebab, steaks, and meat
• Oda – The most authentic local dishes
• Era Vila – Considered the locals’ favorite
• Mullixhiu – Ranked by Forbes as one of Europe’s Top 50 hottest restaurants

Berat: an incredible, quintessential Byzantine mountain town where you can sleep in a fortress

I arrived at this fascinating mountain town at sunset, and immediately marveled at its beauty. Situated on a perfect little mountain surrounded by lush, green river valleys, Berat seems a Byzantine-era town untouched by time. Well-kept, there is not a single stone out of place.

Berat is the real deal.

What to see and do in Berat

Albanians call Berat the “One above another Windows”, and it offers a reconstructed medieval bazaar, gorgeous Byzantine churches, and even a National Museum.

It’s worth staying here the night just to see the sunset from the top of the fortress. Places to visit here include:

• The Holy Trinity Church
• All of Old Town and its restaurants, cafes, hotels, and narrow alleyways
• Berat Castle and its epic views of the surrounding mountains
• The Iconography Museum of Onufri
• The Ethnographic Museum
• Ruins of the Red Mosque
• Saint Demetrius Cathedral
• Church of St Thomas
• Kanionet e Osumit, an incredible river gorge with waterfalls where you can go rafting

$ Hotel Klea

$$ Hotel Colombo Berat : I can’t even believe how beautiful this hotel is.

Visiting a massive, stupendous waterfall you won’t believe exists in Albania – way off the beaten path

On the way from Tirana to Berat, I took a sliiiight detour. I took my little tiny European 2WD rental car off road to a waterfall with almost no information available – and none in English.

And boy was I glad I did. What I found was a series of massive multi-layer waterfalls landing in a crystal clear pool – and I had it all to myself .

The name of the waterfall? It’s the Sotires Ujevara (which means waterfall in Albanian), and it’s about an hour of dirt road and a 45 minute walk to get there, but it’s totally worth it. If you have a 4×4, you could drive the entire way there.

Pro Tip: the best time to visit is the morning for sunshine. And you can hike down to the bathing pool at the bottom for an awesome swim!

An awesome Balkan experience: fantastic white water canyoning 

On your way out from Berat, I highly highly recommend stopping by the Kanionet e Osumit (Osumit Canyon) for an adrenaline-racing, heart-pumping white water rafting adventure.

Or you can simply enjoy hiking around the river, relaxing in the sun, and going for a fresh dip to stay cool in the afternoon sun. In any case, it’s a stupendously beautiful spot to enjoy Albania’s glory.

Gjirokaster: a fairytale city – and my favorite in Albania

I loved walking through the old town and up to the castle of Gjirokaster, and exploring its museum with 360 degree mountaintop views. And I certainly didn’t mind having the best authentic Albanian food of my entire trip here, basking in the views and the glory of this magnificent city.

What to see and do in Gjirokaster

The true reason you came to Gjirokaster, is, as the name implies, for the castle! Built during the 12th century, the Castle of Gjirokaster sits atop a mountain with incredible views on the surrounding valleys and mountains.

It includes an incredible museum detailing Albania’s resistance against the Germans, how an American fighter jet got lost in the clouds and ended up here, and a bunch of rare and stunning tanks.

Other places of interest in Gjirokaster include:

• The main Bazaar
• Old Town Gjirokastra
• The Archeological Park of Antigonea

$$ Hotel Fantasy : wonderful views outside the castle

$$$ Resort Kerculla : an epic, authentic estate with massive pool and wonderful rooms overlooking the city

While here, you have to try the Taverna Tradicionale KARDHASHI . It’s some of the best food not just in Gjirokaster, but in all of Albania, with incredible tourist-centric service. It’s just outside the Castle, so you might have to hike up a little – but it’s worth it just for the delicious Raki and Moussaka.

The Albania Riviera (“Bregu”/Mediterranean Coast): a glorious and enthralling place for a road trip

A couple years ago, I completed a delightful 8-day road trip all the way across Croatia . What I found was delightful, beyond-words beauty. So I was hoping that Albania would naturally share that same essence. 

What I found was astounding. Crystal clear water, beautiful beaches, insane mountain viewpoints, fantastic hiking, wonderful seaside towns. I even went swimming – in March!

The cities you’ll not want to miss include:

• Butrint for it Roman Archeological Park on an island 
• Ksamil for some of the best secluded beaches and fun nightlife
• Porto Palermo and it’s fortress
• Orikum for an incredible, calm, peninsula protected bay of amazing beaches and great restaurants 

You may have noticed I left off Sarande and Vlore, but I found these cities a bit too big and not as charming. They do both offer nice boardwalks and plenty of hotels and places to eat, as well as nightlife – but I don’t feel they’re as authentically Albanian. 

Durres is a quite nice bigger city, featuring gorgeous mosques, churches, and even a Roman amphitheater.

The best beaches to visit on your road trip

Overall, I’d say crystal clear water, white sand beaches, gorgeous mountains, delightful boardwalks, and amazing drives make Albania’s coastline a real competitor to that of Croatia’s . 

Some of the best beaches in Albania include: 

• Gjiri i Akuariumit
• Livadi Beach
• Plazhi i Borshit
• Plazhi i Pasqyrave
• Grama Bay- possibly the best beach here, but quite out of the way

An epic fortress island you can’t miss

Butrint Archeological Park is an entire island that could be considered the sister to Corfu as seen by the Roman Empire. It’s very well preserved, offering everything from massive estates to an amphitheater to a mountain top fortress – all connected by walking trails. 

It’s a must see if you have the time. 

The most flabbergasting viewpoint on Albania’s coast

Panorama Llogara makes it worth it to take the longer road back towards Tirana. Why? It’s simply the best view on the entire coast of Albania.

Perched high up in the mountains, with seemingly endless views over the coast and neighboring giants of mountains, the viewpoint often sits above any clouds. 

The perfect Instagram spot. 

$ Himara ’28 Hotel : a great deal for nearly beachfront property with breakfast

$$ Arxontico : for the best sea views from your beachfront balcony

Where to stay in Orikum

$ A&G Hotel – an awesome beachfront hotel

$ Bel Ami Suita – excellent value

Krujë: one last castle before you leave Albania

If you have time before your flight, you should definitely visit the Castle of Kruja. It’s one of the most beautiful in Albania and only a 40 minute drive from Tirana airport.

Other notable mentions of epic destinations to visit in Albania

• Valbona Valley (and its National Park)
• Shkoder and the Mesi Bridge 
• Fir of Hotova and its thermal springs, river rafting, and hiking
• Korce – a gorgeous city surrounded by the Morova Mountains
• Lake Ohrid area – this was my favorite place in the Balkans last year

Other road trips you should consider

The Ultimate 2-Month Central America Road Trip Itinerary

Croatia in 2023: The Ultimate 8 Day Road Trip Itinerary

The Most Epic 2-Week Madagascar Road Trip Itinerary (All Costs Included)

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Roads We Take

• Aug 25, 2021
• 24 min read

Albania Road Trip - The Perfect 10-Days Itinerary!

Our trip videos.

Albania, a little country in the Balkan regions in South Europe, is a highly underrated and often misunderstood destination. A lot has to do with the way Albanians have been portrayed in movies like 'Taken', and of course, the brutal communist regime of about half a century post World War 2 that locked away this beautiful gem from the rest of the world! But in reality, the country boasts some of the most enchanting landscapes, a rich history from the Illyrian and Ottoman times , a vibrant culture with the influence of its neighboring countries, and most importantly - unparalleled Albanian hospitality :)

Traveling to Albania was a very spontaneous decision. We wanted to visit an off-beat destination, but at the same time get a little bit of the 'European' experience. After a quick research, we decided to drive across the country for 10 days to get a taste of both - the Albanian Alps in the north, as well as the Albanian Riviera in the south. And then of course, we traveled to some of the most fascinating UNESCO World Heritage sites spread across the country.

So here are our TRIP HIGHLIGHTS >>

Day 1 - Explore Tirana Land in Tirana and explore the city

Day 2 - Cobo Winery, Berat - Town of a Thousand Windows Drive to Berat, spend the night at a guesthouse Next morning, visit Berat castle and the museum

Day 3 - Gjirokaster - Silver City Drive to Gjirokaster, spend the night at a guesthouse Next morning, visit the Gjirokaster fortress and museum

Day 4 - Syri-i-Kalter, Drive along the Albanian Riviera Drive along the riviera, stop by the Blue Eye of Sarande, Stay overnight at one of the beach towns. We stayed at Ksamil but we would recommend Sarande or Himare instead

Day 5 - Butrint National Park, Gjipe Beach Visit Butrint National Park in the morning Drive further north along the riviera, hike to Gjipe beach and camp overnight

Day 6 - Drive to Shkoder through the Llogara Pass After lunch at Gjipe beach, drive further north to Shkoder (around 6 hours drive) and stay overnight

Day 7 - Valbone Leave the car in Shkoder Ferry ride along Lake Koman to Fierze Stay overnight in Valbone

Day 8 - Hike from Valbone to Theth National Park Hike from Valbone National Park to Theth National Park, 14km, about 6-7 hours. Stay overnight in Theth

Day 9 - Kruje Jeep ride to Shkoder to pick the car Drive south to Kruje. Explore the town and stay overnight

Day 10 - Tirana Drive to Tirana post lunch. Explore the city or drive to Lake Boville

Day 11 - Fly back home

If you're in a hurry, you can skip the Q&A below and head straight down to the I TINERARY.

The Theth Church, North Albania

When is the best time to visit Albania?

We visited Albania in the beginning of July. The peak season is from July-August, when it tends to get crowded in certain spots, and the weather in the coastal areas can get really hot (the mountains in the north are still cool though). We recommend visiting the country in the shoulder seasons, that is between April-June and September- October. However, do note that some of the hiking trails in the north (most importantly, the Valbone to Theth trail) are closed to tourists in the winter months up until late-May because of snowfall!

How many days do I need in Albania?

Ideally, you would need at least 10-14 days to fully explore the country (if you have your own rented vehicle). But if you are short of time, then we recommend at least one week where you choose to do either only the north, or the south. Tirana, the capital is situated somewhere in the middle of the country, and this can be your starting point to head towards the north or the south.

The north is known for its mountainous topography - the Accursed Mountains, also known as the Albanian Alps, as well as the ancient capital, Kruje, a very culturally-rich, medieval town.

The south is known for the Albanian Riviera and all the beaches along the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, as well as some of the UNESCO heritage towns of Berat and Gjirokaster.

Flights & Visas

*Please note that this article was written in August 2021. Rules related to visa applications are subject to change*

Please check the website of the Albanian Embassy in your country of residence, to check for visa requirement and the application process. As UAE residents, we can obtain a visa-on-arrival for a maximum stay of 90 days. At the immigration check at Tirana International Airport, we were asked to present any one of our hotel bookings, and a proof of a return or onward ticket. Please note that passports must be valid for a minimum of 3 months from the arrival date.

We traveled via FlyDubai Airlines that has direct flights between Dubai to Tirana. We recommend running a quick search on Skyscanner to check for flight routes and rates based on your location. It takes about 30 minutes to travel from Tirana airport to the centre of the city. By bus it costs 300 Lek (€2.45), and by taxi it costs somewhere around €20-€25.

Do I need to take a COVID-19 RT-PCR test for Albania? Where can I get tested in Albania?

*Please note that this article was written in August 2021, and rules related to COVID-19 protocol are subject to change*

Please check the IATA Travel Centre website before your flight to get the latest updates on the requirements of the country you are traveling from and arriving to. At the time we traveled (July '21), Albania was open to all tourists with no requirement of an RT-PCR test nor any proof of vaccination. However, we required a negative RT-PCR test to fly back into our home country.

Tirana International Airport has its own testing facility , where you can get your results within 90 minutes! Passengers are advised to reach the airport at least four hours before their flight in order to get the PCR test results in time before their departure. There are several other testing centers in clinics across the country, but from our research, the Tirana airport provided the cheapest and quickest option of all.

RT-PCR Test Cost - €35 per person

How do I get around in Albania?

Roads leading to Gjirokaster Castle

Public transport - There is no rail system in Albania, and it's mostly buses or 'furgons' (shared mini-vans). We had heard that they do not run on any fixed time-table, so we are not too sure if they are reliable. However, we did meet a few travelers on our trip who were getting around only using public transport.

Driving or Hiring a Driver - We rented a car and drove ourselves, which gave us so much flexibility and freedom to explore areas we would have otherwise never seen. Driving in Albania.....is quite an experience! The highways are great, the direction signages are straightforward, and the views are absolutely stunning. Expect a lot of hairpin bends too, especially around the mountain regions. However, watch out for some really crazy, dangerous drivers inside the major cities, like Shkoder and Tirana, where people (and pedestrians!) tend to flout traffic rules. But it was definitely not impossible to drive, and as long as you stick to the speed limits and practice safe driving, you should be fine :)

GPS Apps - Google Maps is the usual go-to navigation app, BUT in Albania you can't completely rely on it! It did take us on crazy detours, so we highly recommend using Maps.Me side-by-side to cross-check your route. Maps.Me was also useful during our hikes in the north as it identifies hiking trails as well.

Google Translate - This is hands down, one of the the best inventions ever! English may not be widely spoken or understood in Albania, but with an app like this, you can manage to have a somewhat-complete conversation with the locals.

Where can I rent a car from?

Our rental car! The only one that was left in all of Tirana - what happens when you travel during peak tourist season

There are many car rental offices right outside Tirana airport. You have options from Avis, Europecar etc. to local companies as well. The advantage of renting your car from the airport is that you can drop it off there at the end of your trip. However, we arrived during peak season when all the affordable cars were sold out, and we had no choice but to look for options inside the city centre.

During peak season , a basic sedan (such as a Nissan, or a VW Polo) starts at €25 per day for a manual, and €30 per day for an automatic car. It was quite a challenge finding a car at this price point, but we finally managed to do so. THE ONLY one car that was left available in all of Tirana - a bright, yellow Nissan sedan 😂 We found it at a local rental company called Makina Me Qera Danieli (which translates to Danieli Rental Cars) and you can contact them on WhatsApp at +355 693191919. You may find trouble communicating with them in English, but we used the Google Translate app and copy-pasted our translations and managed to converse. :)

Budgeting for the trip

The Lek (plural Leke) is the official currency of Albania, although the Euro is widely accepted. The money exchange centers in Dubai did not have any Albanian Lek, so we carried Euros with us and converted some of it to Lek at a local exchange centre in Tirana.

1 Euro = 120.97 Albanian Lek (dated August 2021)

Food, accommodations, and getting around in Albania, in general, is so much more affordable when compared to other mainstream destinations in Europe. Listed below are our average expenses on our trip (we travelled during peak season), but your final budget would also depend on your travel style and preferences.

Average price for a 2 or 3-Star hotel/guesthouse, inclusive of breakfast - €35 per night

An average meal for one person (main course + drink) - €4

Average rate for a basic, automatic rental car (not including fuel) - €30 per day

Accommodations in Albania

One of the best hotel experience ever at Vila Dini, Valbone

Finding an accommodation in the country is very easy, and they are quite affordable as well. From hostels and guesthouses, to AirBnBs and luxury star hotels, there is something to fit into any type of budget! We traveled during peak season, and we were mostly staying in either hotels or guesthouses, spending an average of €28-€35 per night for a spacious double-bed room, inclusive of breakfast. There are plenty of group hostels too, but we chose not to stay in shared-spaces as precaution during the pandemic.

NOTE : *We have listed the exact names and costs of accommodations under the relevant headings in the itinerary below this Q&A.*

At Homemade Food Lili's , treating ourselves to some traditional Berat cuisine

We would return to Albania just for the food! Albania's rich gastronomical scene has its roots in the Ottoman empire, and Turkish influences are quite noticeable too. Modern day dishes are hugely influenced by Greek and Italian cuisines. THE BEST PART - quite a few of their traditional dishes are completely vegan , and that made our dining experiences so much more enjoyable and easier than in other countries we have visited.

Some of the MUST-TRY Albanian dishes are

Byrek (Savoury crepes with a spinach filling)

Imam Bayldi (Stuffed Eggplant)

Stuffed Bell Pepper

Bamje (Okra stew)

Yaprak (Stuffed vine leaves like the Greek 'Dolmas')

Qifqi (Stuffed rice balls) - a dish native to the town of Gjirokaster

Grilled Vegetables (seared in olive oil)

Good food is very affordable in most restaurants across the country. A dish from the main course is priced at an average of 300 Lek (approx. €2.47!)

NOTE - *We have recommended restaurants for each city we visited under the relevant headings in the itinerary below this Q&A.*

Day 1 - Explore the capital city of Tirana

Tirana may not be the prettiest European capital city, and is not the best example of what Albania has to offer, but it has a few gems and pockets of culture and history that are worth exploring. We landed here on a weekend evening and wanted to set off on our road trip the following morning. So we decided to explore more of Tirana at the end of our trip ( Day 10 ). But we did get to experience the bustling night life and restaurant scenes on our first day.

We highly recommend staying around Skanderbeg Square , the public plaza in the city centre. This place has got a nice chilled vibe, with locals walking and cycling around, or just chit-chatting away to glory. The square is named after Skanderbeg, the 'national hero' of Albania who successfully resisted the Ottoman invasions during the mid-1400s. You can also find Skanderbeg's famous statue on his horse in the center of this Square.

If you've got more time on your hands, we recommend visiting Bunkart 2, which is actually an anti-nuclear bunker built by the Communist dictator Enver Hoxha, now converted into a fascinating museum! It is open on all days of the week, from 9 am to 8 pm. You could also explore the surrounding hipster neighborhood of Blloku , which used to be the centre of the communist rule, but is today very popular among the locals for its trendy restaurants and cafe scenes.

Where we stayed in Tirana

We stayed at Urban Rooms , perfectly located close to the main city sights yet nestled away from the noise and bustle. The rooms are spacious, and very tastefully designed with contemporary elements. The owner Armand, an architect, designed the property himself! He is a wonderful person to chat with and will also help give useful recommendations on things to see and places to dine at.

COST - A double-bed room with a private bathroom cost us about €35 per night. Super worth it during peak season considering the quality of our stay and its prime location!

Restaurant recommendations in Tirana

On our first night we stepped out for dinner quite late when most restaurants were already shut (post 10 pm on weekends), although the bars and cafes were still open and buzzing! We did manage to grab a bite at a local eatery serving Greek food. However, we recommend that you visit Oda Restaurant which is highly rated and serves some of the best traditional Albanian cuisine in Tirana.

Day 2 - Visit Cobo Winery, Explore Berat - Town of a Thousand Windows!

On Day 2 early in the morning, we checked out of our hotel in Tirana and set off on a hunt for our rental car ! You can scroll up to this section for more details on the costs and process of renting a car in Albania.

By mid-day we set off to Berat, which is about 100 km from Tirana, a two-hour journey by road. On our way we stopped by Cobo Winery , a family-run business that has a long tradition of producing wine from native Albanian grapes, dating back to the early 1900s. We were offered a tour by their lovely daughter, Ermi who showed us around the vineyards, wine cellars, followed by a fantastic wine-tasting session. We were also introduced to the famous ' Raki', which is the most popular alcoholic drink consumed in Albania . In fact, Cobo has its own version of the 'walnut raki' besides its signature red and white wines!

We stayed back at the winery for a couple of hours, spending time with the warm and hospitable Cobo family. After the alcohol wore off 🙈 we finally drove to Berat! Famously known as the 'town of a thousand windows', Berat is a 2400-years old museum city , known for its white stone Ottoman houses with dark mahogany stucco roofs, all stacked up along a beautiful hillside. It has rightly earned its place on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites! While Tirana lacks the old-world charm due to Communism, Berat makes up for it with its picturesque landscapes and strong traditional vibe.

We recommend staying AT LEAST one night in Berat. There's so much you can do - from exploring the countless stone alleys, to enjoying a traditional Berati meal in one of the many cute restaurants adorning the town. But our FAVOURITE part was the Castle of Berat , situated atop a hill, where every corner seems like a picture-perfect postcard from the medieval times!

Early morning views of beautiful Berat - the cute little old Ottoman houses adorned with countless windows and chestnut colored roofs makes it a picture-perfect postcard!

Views of Kalajat-e-Berat (Castle of Berat) - This was easily our most favourite part about Berat

Cobbled streets and houses with chestnut-colored roofs cascading gently along a hillside - These views are timeless!

Where we stayed in Berat

We stayed at Timo's Guest House and we HIGHLY RECOMMEND this beautiful traditional home, hosted by the most adorable couple, George and Maria. ❤ They welcomed us with some fresh bread and berry jams along with some 'Raki', and we had some of the most touching and heartwarming conversations with them on their terrace (thank you, Google Translate 😊) The rooms are incredible, and the views from our room and the breakfast terrace were simply the BEST!

COST - A large double-bed room (with an additional single bed) plus private bathroom cost us around €37 per night, inclusive of breakfast. Super worth it on a weekend especially during peak tourist season!

Restaurant recommendations in Berat

If we have to recommend just one restaurant in Berat, then it has to be Lili Homemade Food! This family-run restaurant is the epitome of Albanian hospitality. The owner, Lili, is the friendliest soul with a big smile on his face. And the food, oh you won't be disappointed AT ALL! We had some of the best stuffed eggplant here, also known as Imam Bayldi! Some other dishes that we recommend are stuffed bell pepper and byreks.

Day 3 - The Silver City of Gjirokaster

The next day we drove off to Gjirokaster, which is hands-down, our MOST FAVOURITE part of Albania! We took the SH4 highway from Berat, around 120 kilometers long or two-hours by road, but the views are just gorgeous!

Gjirokaster, like Berat, is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and although both are historical Ottoman towns , they are both unique in their own ways. We liked Gjirokaster as the city is more compact which renders it a small-town vintage charm. But we still recommend not skipping either of the cities! 🙈

The streets of Gjirokaster are some of the most beautiful we have ever seen. Silver limestone cobbled streets with traditional colourful shops on either sides, sometimes with items spilling onto the streets, is such a wonderful sight to behold. We also highly recommend visiting the Gjirokaster Fortress and the museum (a part of the castle has been converted into a museum). The museum is so beautifully done, and was an eye-opener to the challenging history of Albania!

It's pretty clear why Gjirokaster is called the Silver City ❤

Two joyous backpackers in the bazaars of Gjirokaster!

Stone Ottoman houses with cute-little arched windows make the perfect backdrop for pictures!

The attention to detail is just outstanding! With cute signages, wooden window frames, and plant baskets lined along a cobbled stone street, Gjirokaster transports you to a medieval fairytale

Stunning Gjirokaster from a bird's eye view

The Castle of Gjirokaster

Where we stayed in Gjirokaster

We stayed at Stone House Obelisk , a beautiful guesthouse right next to the famous Obelisk of Gjirokaster, yet situated in a quiet, secret corner away from the hustle and noise of the centre. The host is a beautiful, old mother who manages the property and we shared an incredible bond in the little time that we were there.

COST- We got a massive room (almost like a junior suite) that cost us only about €25 for the night, inclusive of a splendid breakfast prepared by the host herself.

Restaurant recommendations in Gjirokaster

We had some of the most mouth-watering Albanian food in Gjirokaster! Do try out the 'Qifqi' which are these traditional stuffed rice balls and are native to Gjirokaster (we had a hard time finding Qifqi in other parts of Albania!). For restaurants, we highly recommend these two :

Restaurant Tradicional Odaja - This is a highly rated venue, and the food and quality ingredients justifies so! We loved their Imam Bayldi (stuffed eggplant), stuffed bell pepper, and this is also where we tried our first Qifqi!

Kujtimi Tradicional Restorant - This place has one of the most beautiful and romantic setting, under a canopy of ivy leaves and fairy lights! We went for dinner here, as recommended by our host, and had a 'vegan' version of the moussaka (which the chef kindly customized for us) along with some traditional stuffed vine leaves called Japrak!

Day 4 - Drive along the Albanian Riviera (Syri-i-Kalter >> Sarande>>Ksamil)

After spending the first few days of our trip in the cultural parts of the country, it was then time for the much-awaited drive along the great Albanian Riviera !

We left Gjirokaster by mid-day and our first stop on the way was, Syri-i-Kalter , also known as the Blue Eye of Sarande . Located around 37 km south of Gjirokaster, it took us about an hour to get here. Syri-i-Kalter transported us to a tropical forest, with its clear blue waters shimmering under the sunlight seeping through a dense green canopy! Do note that Syri-i-Kalter can get crowded in the peak summers, so it was a little challenging to find a quiet spot all to ourselves.

The Blue Eye of Sarande (Syri-i-Kalter). The water here is unreal!

We then continued our journey to the coastal town of Sarande. We were mesmerized throughout the drive, with our jaws dropping after every few kilometers on the riviera. There are plenty of beaches that you can stop by along the way. We went to Plazhi Pasqyrave (Mirror Beach) in Sarande , a stunning pebble beach with beautiful blue waters surrounded by white stone cliffs.

We spent the evening at the beach watching the sunset, and we stayed overnight at the nearby coastal town of Ksamil . Staying in Ksamil was not a good idea as it felt extremely touristy and chaotic. But the advantage is that it's an easy start point to get to the amazing Butrint National Park. But if you want to give Butrint a miss, we would recommend staying further up-north on the riviera, in a town like Dhermi or Vlore.

Views along the Albanian Riviera

Magical sunset at Plazhi Pasqyrave, also known as the Mirror Beach

Day 5 - Visit Butrint National Park >> Drive up north>> Camp overnight in Gjipe Beach

The following morning we drove to Butrint National Park , one of the highlights on the south of the riviera. This UNESCO protected archaeological site is situated on an island and is a delight for history lovers like us! The ancient port city offers a remarkable journey through the ages of history, which dates back to 8th century BC. The old city and its heritage retain a unique testimony of Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman cultures and civilizations. We spent around two hours exploring these ancient ruins, and the sea views around the park made it the most scenic history tour ever.

The Great Basilica, built in the 6th century AD, marks the establishment of the early Christian period in this region

A Roman amphitheater from the 3rd century BC. Further right is the Venetian Castle of the 14th and 16th century. Butrint has seen the rise and fall of several empires and civilizations in its time.

Closer views of the ruins around the Roman amphitheater from the 3rd century BC

Closer views of the Great Basilica from the 6th century AD

We then had a quick lunch in Sarande to fuel ourselves for the next leg of the journey. We set off towards the north of the riviera to get to Gjipe Beach , which many describe as the best beach of the country. Getting to the beach is a bit of a challenge, with the single-lane endless roads that lead to the parking bay, and a short 30-minute hike to get to the beach . But, Gjipe is worth ALL the effort! The beach is phenomenal and the water is SO blue and clear. And because we went on a weekday, there were not too many people which was such a refreshing change for a European beach during summer!

The BEST part was we spontaneously decided to camp overnight at Gjipe! We found a place behind the beach from where we could rent little tents. It was such a magical experience to sleep under the stars to the sound of the gushing waves. It cost us just €9 per person, inclusive of a humble breakfast (How cool is that!). The beach also has a little restaurant shack from where you can grab a bite and a couple of drinks, and there is also a portable toilet facility.

Gjipe is almost hidden in a little cove on the Albanian riviera

There's a short hike to get down to Gjipe, and the views along the way only gets better!

The waves of the Ionian Sea are some of the craziest we've seen!

Soaking in the last few rays of the sun before it sets

Morning swim views. Also, this was our first pebble-stone beach ❤

We spontaneously decided to camp overnight at Gjipe!

Moonlight by the beach, whilst listening to the sounds of the gushing waves. The experience was truly magical. ❤

Day 6 - Drive to Shkoder along the Llogara Pass

We woke up to some of the best views you can imagine in our camping tents at Gjipe beach. We had a little morning swim and by mid-day we left Gjipe to drive to the north of Albania - ALSO the last leg of our trip! It was a long drive of about 290 kilometers to a city called Shkoder, and it took us about 5 hours. But the views along the way, especially at Llogara Pass , were just breathtaking!

Shkoder is the gateway point to travel around the north of the country , especially the Albanian Alps, as well as a convenient stopover for people traveling to Montenegro. As a city, Shkoder felt a little chaotic in terms of crowded streets, road traffic, and undisciplined driving. You will find many people commuting on bicycles, which is nice, but they get into the car lanes which can get a little frustrating if you're driving. Finding a parking spot in the city is a lot more difficult than it is in Tirana, so you might want to be prepared for that as well :)

If you've got more time on your hands, there are sights that you can explore around Shkoder, such as the Rozafa Castle overlooking Lake Shkoder. But we decided to give it a miss and just relax that evening to take it easy before our big hike in the coming days.

Where we stayed in Shkoder?

We stayed at Oda Aparthote l, and we really liked its clean and simple aesthetic. T he host, Naira, is very friendly as well and helped us with a lot of recommendations within the city.

Restaurant recommendations in Shkoder

Since we were in Shkoder only for the night, we just dined at Bar Restaurant Elita , which was walking distance from our hotel. We ordered their vegetarian risotto, tomato spaghetti and baked potatoes. The food is good and the restaurant itself has a nice, modern vibe.

Day 7 - Ferry Ride along Lake Koman to Fierze >> Stay overnight in Valbone

We were to spend the next two days in the Albanian Alps, so we left our rental car parked beside our hotel in Shkoder . The host said that the car would be absolutely fine (and so it was!) and that there are no parking tickets charged in the city.

NOTE - We only carried the necessary items for the next two days in our backpacks (hiking gear + passports + other essentials)and left the rest of our luggage in our car, because you will have to hike with all your stuff from Valbone to Theth. You could even choose to leave behind the main luggage at your hotel reception in Shkoder in case you do not have a rental car.

Our hotel host got us in touch with a representative of Berisha-Komani Lake Explore via WhatsApp (+355 69 680 0748) to arrange for our ferry ride along Lake Koman. The ferry ride is an EPIC experience! Literally two-hours of magnificent views of silver mountains soaring out of a gorgeous blue green lake. It reminded us of our island-hopping trips in South East Asia! The cool winds were also a peaceful respite from the hot weather in the south.

Magnificent views of Lake Koman on the ferry to Fierze

The entire trip cost us a mere €16 per person for the following :

- Minivan pick-up from our hotel in Shkoder at 7 am

- 1.5 hour ride to the ferry station at Lake Koman

- 2 hour ferry ride along Lake Koman to Fierze

- Minivan transport from Fierze to Valbone (drop-off to your doorstep in Valbone)

Where we stayed in Valbone

We HIGHLY recommend Vila Dini - one of our best hotel experiences ever! The location is a 10/10 (the pictures below speak for itself!) Everything about the hotel, from the epic balcony views, to the spacious rooms and humble service, was the highlight of our time in Valbone.

COST - A spacious double-bed suite room on the top floor with the best balcony view cost us only €45 for the night, inclusive of a breakfast buffet. A similar experience in the Swiss Alps or Austria would cost yo u 10 times the price or even more!

Vila Dini, in all its glory, tucked under the Albanian mountain ranges. We cannot recommend this place enough! ❤

Restaurant recommendations in Valbone

We actually didn't have to step out of Vila Dini as it had its own little restaurant on the ground floor terrace. Overlooking the valley, these are some of the best views you can get while devouring a meal. We enjoyed the lentil soup, vegetarian risotto, and the spaghetti pomodoro.

Lunch views at Vila Dini.

Some warm soup and linguini makes the most comforting meal in the cool breeze atop the mountains.

Day 8 - Hike from Valbone to Theth National Park

Here comes the big day - the most enchanting hike from Valbone to Theth National Park! We checked out of our hotel in Valbone right after breakfast to start the hike at 8 am. The host at your guesthouse in Valbone can help arrange for a drop-off to the starting point of the hike.

A 14 km stretch through the Albanian Alps, this hike is absolutely breathtaking! We were amazed at the sheer beauty of those snow-capped peaks, winter vegetation, and the sweet sounds of nature - a much needed respite from our busy lives. ❤ The hike is not too difficult as long as you have a minimum level of fitness. The trails are also well marked with red+white paint on tree barks/rock surfaces after every few meters, so you don't really need a guide on this hike.

You should be able to arrive at Theth in around 7 hours but we took a little longer as we stopped a couple of times on the way to take pictures and some epic drone shots. We also met two wonderful travelers from Portugal who were such great company on this long hike, and we didn't realize how time passed. Note that upon reaching Theth, you will have to walk all the way to your accommodation , so it will be nice to factor in that distance as well.

Hiking trails in Valbone National Park

Stopping mid-way to soak in the majestic views of the Albanian Alps

All smiles on this beautiful hike :)

Is this even real? The Accursed Mountains of Albania are enchanting, to say the least!

One of the highlights of Theth is the Instagram-famous cute, little church against the mountain backdrop - definitely a rewarding sight after a long, tiring day. We had the pleasure of meeting Carla & Lili, two wonderful Portuguese travelers, on our hike.

Where we stayed in Theth

We stayed at Bujtina Tirani Theth which is right next to the famous Theth church. We had booked this place at the very last minute when most accommodations in Theth were already sold out. The rooms are neat and clean, and the hosts are really kind. Although we would still recommend choosing another guesthouse that serves lunch and dinner, because there are only a few handful of restaurants in Theth and these might not even be in the vicinity of your accommodation. Also there aren't any taxis here, so you will have to rely on walking yourself.

COST - A double-bed room with a shared bathroom cost us around €30 per night, inclusive of breakfast.

Restaurant recommendations in Theth

There are only a few restaurants in Theth, and most people dine at their own guesthouses, so make sure to choose one that serves food. Ours unfortunately didn't, so we ended up dining at Bar Jezerka. We did not have the most pleasant experience here in terms of both, service and quality of food. But it was the only option we had in our vicinity.

Day 9 - Return to Shkoder >> Drive to Kruje

The host at our guesthouse in Theth arranged for a jeep and driver to drop us to Shkoder early after breakfast. (Your host can help arrange for this the night before.) We paid €10 per person for a 2.5 hours long ride. Leaving early in the morning was a good decision as we reached Shkoder before mid-day. This gave us ample time to pick up our car and have lunch before driving off to our next destination - Kruje - which is just 80 kilometers from Shkoder, about 1.5 hours by road.

We absolutely LOVED Kruje! This charming medieval village boasts a rich historical significance. It was once the ancient capital of Albania , and the birthplace of Skanderbeg, the country's national hero. The town sits at the foot of Mt Kruje, overlooking the beautiful peaks and green valleys stretching all the way to the Adriatic coast. Kruje was very surprisingly not touristy, and is still quite authentic compared to the other historical towns across the country. Our favourite part was the Bazaar , where the locals sell vintage artefacts and traditional crafts on either sides of a narrow, cobbled street leading all the way up to the Castle of Skanderbeg , and a museum dedicated to him.

Peaceful sunset views from our hotel in Kruje

The Bazaars of Kruje

At the Castle of Kruje, which once belonged to Skanderbeg - the historical national hero of Albania

Where we stayed in Kruje

We highly recommend staying at Hotel Panorama . The rooms and service are amazing, plus their balconies have got the most picturesque aerial views of Kruje. The thing we liked the most was the open-to-sky restaurant on the top-most floor, where you can enjoy a traditional meal with a stunning sunset view in the evenings.

COST - A large double-bed room with a private modern bathroom and balcony, cost us €36 for the night, inclusive of a breakfast buffet.

Restaurant recommendation in Kruje

We had a lovely lunch at Bar Restorant Eli , situated at the end of the Bazaar, right before you enter the Castle. We had their grilled vegetables, Japrak (stuffed vine leaves), and traditional spinach Byrek.

We also enjoyed dinner at the open-to-sky restaurant on the top-most floor of Hotel Panorama (where we stayed). The food was great, and the prices were extremely reasonable. We had the Spaghetti Aglio-e-Olio, Tagliatelle with Tomato, and traditional Japrak (stuffed vine leaves).

Day 10 - Drive back to Tirana & Explore Lake Boville

The following day, we checked out of our hotel in Kruje to head back to where it all started from - Tirana! Tirana is just an hour's drive from Kruje , and on the way we decided to take a little detour to Lake Boville .

We literally stumbled upon Lake Boville when playing with the Google Street Views feature on the Albanian map during our trip research! The images of a dense green island plopped in the middle of a sea-green lake looked SO stunning and we were determined to find this place in real. Simply search for 'Bovilla Restorant' on Google Maps which is the closest navigable coordinates to the lake's view point. There is a small fee of 100 Lek per person if you want to do a short climb to a hill-top for the best views. *A little disclaimer though* - the roads to this location are some of the roughest, and do expect a lot of hairpin bends. But in all honesty, the final views made it worth all the effort!

Overlooking beautiful Lake Boville after navigating through some crazy roads to get here.

But the spectacular views makes it all worth it!

Where we stayed in Tirana?

After our little adventure in Lake Boville, we drove back to Tirana and stayed at Urban Rooms , the same hotel as Day-1 of our trip. It is perfectly located close to the main city sights yet nestled away from the noise and bustle. The rooms are spacious, and very tastefully designed with contemporary elements. The owner Armand, an architect, designed the property himself! He is a wonderful person to chat with and will also help give useful recommendations on things to see and places to dine at.

Day 11 - Return the rental car, Fly back home

This was our last day in Albania :( After checking-out of our hotel in Tirana, we had a couple of hours to run errands before catching our flight in the evening. We had our last 'brunch' in the country, re-fueled our rental car, gave it a little wash at a local garage, and finally returned it to the rental company.

We then took a taxi to the airport, which is also where we did our RT-PCR tests for COVID-19 . YES! Tirana Airport has its own testing facility where you can get your results within 90 minutes. It is advised to reach at least four hours prior to your flight departure time. The test costs €35 per person* , which is also one of the cheapest and quickest you can find in all of Albania.

* (Please note that this article is dated August 2021 and this information is subject to change with time)

And THAT'S A WRAP to an unforgettable road trip in beautiful Albania! We hope this itinerary has been informative and useful. And in case you have any questions on details we may have missed out, PLEASE drop us a comment under this article and we will see you there :)

Also, do FOLLOW US on our Instagram page @roads.we.take for our video highlights of our Albania trip! 😊

Awesome details about Albania trip. I came here after seeing your two amazing videos on youtube and got hooked till complete reading this blog.

Great details of everything and I am going to follow this for my Albania trip.

Keep up the good work of sharing your travel experiences.

Great description about Albania which will inspire anyone to travel to this land. Even the minutest of the details to be looked into has been narrated interestingly. The photographs are all exquisite and a treat to the eyes.

Excellent narration. You have a great future in writing travelogues.

The Ultimate Albania Itinerary: 1 Week, 2 Week, and 3 Week Options

If you’re planning a trip to Albania, it can be a bit of an overwhelming prospect. The country isn’t large, objectively speaking, but giant mountain ranges throughout the country and winding roads make certain trips that look short on the map look way longer in reality.

The fact that there’s really only one international airport right in the middle of the country means that some backtracking is almost always inevitable, unless you are able to fly out via another country.

Want to save this post for future reference? Pin it below!

One Week in Albania Itinerary: 2 Ways to Spend It

If you only have one week in Albania, it can be a little hard to create a good Albania itinerary without excessive backtracking.

I’ve created two itineraries, one focusing on Northern Albania and one focusing on Southern Albania, as they both offer extremely different things.

For the first itinerary, if at all possible, I recommend starting in Tirana, working your way down the coast, and ending in Saranda by then taking the ferry to Corfu to get your flight out. However, if you have flights in and out of Tirana (or Corfu as the case may be), this Albania itinerary will still be useful to you, you will just to have to add on some extra travel time.

For the second itinerary, it will be easy to just fly in and out of Tirana, but this is also a good itinerary to combine with onwards travel throughout the Balkans such as if you are going onwards to Montenegro, North Macedonia, or Kosovo.

A quick note: While this itinerary is possible with only public transportation – which is how I’ve traveled Albania for the 5+ weeks I’ve spent traveling it – a car will enable you to get even more off the beaten path and visit more remote and pristine beaches, gorgeous hidden hot springs, marvelous ruins, and more. But driving in Albania isn’t for the faint of heart, so it’s only for the experienced driver!

We haven’t been brave enough to drive around Albania… yet. But friends who have had said it’s the trip of a lifetime! Should you choose to rent, we suggest searching via Discover Cars. We’ve rented cars dozens of times in the Balkans through various search engines and have settled on Discover Cars as the best car rental search engine – it searches over 500 trusted rental companies to find the cheapest price for your rental! Compare prices for car rental in Slovenia here.

City & Summer Fun: 1 Week Albania Itinerary

If you’re traveling in summer and want to make the most of Albania’s beaches – while also getting to see a bit of city culture – this is the ideal Albania itinerary for you!

Day 1-2: Explore Tirana

Tirana is hands-down one of my favorite cities in the Balkans, full of incredible restaurants, cafés serving up perfect coffee for less than $1, funky museums, interesting open-air markets, and vibrant street art.

Spend your first day in Tirana getting aquainted with the area around Skanderbeg Square, visiting Bunkart 2 and/or the House of Leaves, checking out the socialist mural on the National History Museum, visiting the newly renovated Pazar I Ri market area, and walking around the hipster neighborhood of Blloku which used to be the center of Communist rule during Enver Hoxha’s murderous reign.

This is a great area to go out at night: I strongly recommend Colonial Cocktail Academy for inventive mixology, Radio Bar for chilled-out drinks in a funky vintage-inspired settling, Nouveau Vague for one of the most photogenic terraces in Tirana, and Kino for a lovely summer garden and fabulous mixed drinks.

For your next day in Tirana, get a little green in your life. I strongly recommend heading out to Bunkart 1, which is quite different from Bunkart 2 and even more interesting as it used to be  Enver Hoxha’s nuclear bunker and a lot of it has been kept just as-is. As a bonus, it’s right next  to the Dajti Express cable car, where you can zoom up to the heights of Mount Dajti and have a fabulous view over Tirana.

Afterwards, when you return to sea level, take a walk through the Grand Park of Tirana near Blloku with its gorgeous artificial lake and stop for drinks at one of the lakeside bars (I like Black Sheep). You can also check out the the Cloud installation (Reja) in front of the National Arts Gallery of Tirana, which is also worth a visit.

While there, don’t miss Piramida (the abandoned Pyramid of Tirana, built in homage to Enver Hoxha and since abandoned) and the Peace Bell installation which was made of melted-down bullets from the crazy post-communist years of the 1990s. You also should check out the “Postbllok – Checkpoint” installation near the Pyramid, which has a piece of the Berlin Wall, a leftover bunker from the paranoia-days of Hoxha’s rule, as well as the iron supporting beams of a copper and pyrite mine from one of Albania’s forced labor camps.

After all that, be sure to check out some of Tirana’s fantastic restaurants – there’s something for everyone!

Day 3: Take a day trip to Berat or Kruja

If I had to pick one or the other, I would opt for Berat as it’s one of my favorite places in Albania and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site with good reason. It’s extremely impressive and really beautiful to walk around, and its small size (and only two-hour minibus distance from Tirana) means that it’s quite easy to visit for just a day trip.

When in Berat, be sure to cross the bridges to get a sense for both sides of the town, as they are a bit different (one is protected by UNESCO and prevented to make any changes, and the other has been allowed to make some adaptations to be better suited for guesthouses and the like).

And of course, don’t miss the gorgeous Berat Castle up on the hill, the crowning glory of any trip to Berat. Getting up can be a bit of an effort – it’s not the most well signposted so you can easily find yourself getting in the back way with some struggle, especially if it’s hot when you visit!

If you opt to visit Kruja, it’s most famous for its excellent castle remains – one of the best-preserved remains of a castle in Albania. It’s also well-loved for its fabulous ethnographic museum, as well as the National Museum Gjergj Kastrioti, a beloved 1400 military figure.

Day 4-5: Head to the coast (basing in Himara or Dhermi)

I love the Albanian Riviera so much, and if you’re visiting in the summer, you’ve got to have some beach days on your Albania itinerary. I have a detailed guide to the Albanian Riviera which you can reference if you want more explanation, but I’ll go into it a bit here as well.

Personally, I loved basing myself in the chill beachside town of Himara. The main city beach isn’t so phenomenal, but there’s a “secret beach” you can hike to or hire a boat to take you to that is one of my favorite in all of Albania. It’s also quite close to several of my other favorite Albanian beaches, including Jale, Gjipje, and Porto Palermo.

Dhermi also makes another fantastic base, although I didn’t get a chance to experience it for myself on my Albanian Riviera trip a few years back. Dhermi is a little more posh whereas Himara is a little more low-key, so it depends what the vibe you’re looking for it. Dhermi has Drymades beach, which is phenomenal, and it’s closer to the Karaburun peninsula which has some of the most untouched beaches in Albania.

Either make a great base so I suggest picking based on your travel style and what accommodations are available.

Day 6-7: End your trip in Saranda, exploring Butrint & Ksamil

Saranda is a fantastic base for further explorations in southern Albania, in addition to just being a great town to relax in as well. Saranda has some quite nice beaches once you get away from the ferry area which is a bit polluted, but the really beautiful beaches are down just a 15-minute drive from Saranda in Ksamil.

I’d spend a half-day exploring Butrint, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the least-crowded Roman ruins you’ll ever come across in your life, before spending the afternoon in Ksamil Beach enjoying the sun and relaxing.

On your final day, you can either chill in Saranda, eating delicious seafood from waterfront restaurants, taking a brisk hike up to the Lëkurësi castle which has gorgeous views over the city, or returning to Ksamil for a lovely day of relaxing.

Nature & Hiking Focus: 1 Week in Albania Itinerary

Day 1: explore tirana.

It takes a while to really get into the mountains of Albania, so you’re going to have to cut your city time close if you only have one week in Albania on your itinerary and you really want to do some epic hiking and nature escapes.

I’d roughly follow the outline I recommended above for Tirana but skip some parts of Day 2, particularly Bunkart 1 and Mount Dajti which will take the better half of a day.

If you walk strategically and get an early start in Tirana, you can cover the following: either Bunkart 2 or The House of Leaves, Skanderbeg Square, Pazar I Ri and the revitalized Kalajes I Tirane area as well as the pedestrian street of Toptani, visiting the Piramida complex, seeing Reja and the National Arts Gallery, and Postbllok – Checkpoint park area, followed by checking out Blloku by night for its fabulous restaurants and nightlife.

Day 2: Head north to Shkodra

Shkodra is one of my favorite cities in Albania – it’s quiet and calm in a way that is sorely missing in Tirana, mostly due to the fact that it’s one of the most bicycle-crazy cities in Albania.

It has a great pedestrian walkway with lots of wonderful coffee shops which is an easy place to while away half an afternoon. I recommend renting bikes and heading out to Rozafa Castle, where you can get phenomenal views over Lake Shkodra, and if you’re extra ambitious you can even bike to the shores of the lake and sunbathe there for a bit or even go for a dip.

You can also check out the phenomenal photography museum there, the Marubi National Museum of Photography, the beautiful central mosque, and the old bazaar.

Day 3: Head to Lake Komani for the Valbona to Theth trek

The best thing about staying in Shkodra for a night before your hike is that you have the ability to leave the majority of your luggage behind. I stayed at Wanderers Hostel in Shkodra and they had secure luggage storage. This way you can just pack a smaller day pack for what you’ll need for your Valbona to Theth hike.

Start your day heading to Lake Komani, which is the gateway to the Albanian Alps, and take the gorgeous ferry across the waters to Fierza, from which you can head onwards into the Alps. Here’s a guide to taking the Komani ferry .

You’ll end up making your way to Valbona by the end of the day, which is a fantastic place to rest up before your epic hike tomorrow or the following day.

Day 4-6: Enjoy Valbona & Theth

The hike from Valbona to Theth is one of the most popular in Albania. I actually have wanted to do this hike for ages and have planned two twice – only to have my first trip derailed by freak thunderstorms and flash floods and my second attempt derailed by the first snowfall in early October… so, while I know from photos and friends’ experiences that this is a must-do in Albania for hikers, I can’t personally speak to it.

Instead, I refer you to my friends Rohan and Max who know Albania super well and have done this hike and written about it in great detail – their Valbona to Theth guide is easily the best out there (as other guides have just copied it without adding anything of their own to it), so use that as your reference point.  

Once you arrive in Theth, it’s worth spending some time exploring Theth National Park and making the hike out to the Theth blue eye, which is one of the most beautiful places in Northern Albania.

Day 7: Head back to Tirana

The journey back from Theth is a long one, so I recommend leaving the better part of a day for it. You’ll need to go back to Shkodra via an incredibly bumpy road (which keeps hearing promises of repaving, yet no dice so far as of 2019). From there, you’ll need to catch a bus back to Tirana.

At that point, you’ll probably only have an evening left, so check out the Tirana bar and restaurant scene and enjoy your last few meals and drinks in Albania!

Two Weeks in Albania Itinerary : Extension Ideas

If you have two weeks in Albania, now you’re open to plenty more options that will make your time spent there even more rewarding. Personally, I think that two weeks is a way better amount of time to spend in Albania, but I understand people sometimes only have one week and that’s better than nothing.

With a two weeks in Albania itinerary, you’ll be able to cover the majority of the main sights, squeeze in both beach time and mountain time, and even get to see all of Albania’s UNESCO sights.

To save time, this Albania itinerary has you arrive in Tirana, explore the North, then head south and catch a ferry out of Corfu. If you need to return to Tirana from Saranda by bus to catch a flight, factor that into your Albania itinerary.

I’m not going to re-write these entirely as it is mostly combining both of the one-week itineraries with a few extra which I’ll mark with a NOTE . Other than that,  I’ll just lay it out and you can refer above to my suggestions.

Day 3-4: Berat

NOTE: Spend your extra day in Berat visiting the nearby Cobo winery, one of the best in Albania, or cooling off in the fabulous Bogove Waterfalls.

Day 5: Shkodra

Day 4-6: Lake Komani & arriving in Valbona

Day 7: Return to Tirana for a rest day before making your way down the coast

Day 8-11: Albanian Riviera, using Himara or Dhermi as a base

Day 12-14: Saranda, Butrint, Ksamil, Blue Eye, Gjirokastra, etc.

NOTE: The Blue Eye is right on the way to Gjirokastra, so you can simply take a furgon from Saranda, get off at the Blue Eye and visit it for an hour or two, then wait back where you exited the bus to then go onwards to Gjirokastra, a “Stone City” and a UNESCO World Heritage Site about an hour and a half from Saranda. There, you’ll find a castle with a unique amphitheater as well as the ethnographic museum which was the birthplace of Enver Hoxha.

Three Weeks in Albania Itinerary : Even More Extension Ideas

If you have three weeks in Albania, now you can really start exploring and getting off the beaten path!

Follow the two week itinerary, but add one day in Tirana and use it for a day trip to Kruja Castle, which is a wonderful stop on your Albania Itinerary. From Berat, you can add a side trip to Korca and/or Pogradec to enjoy some time on the Albanian side of beautiful Lake Ohrid.

Here are a few other places you can add to your Albania itinerary, so you can mix and match it to suit how much time you have there:

• Rana e Hedhun sand dunes in Shengjin, near Lezhe on your way to or from Shkodra.
• Karaburun peninsula and the Llogara Pass on your trip around the Albanian Riviera
• Elbasan between Tirana and Berat for a non-touristy Albanian city
• Durres to visit Apollonia, a UNESCO-tentative sight
• Permet, some beautiful hot springs in Southern Albania which make a great diversion from Gjirokastra

More Albania Resources

First, start by reading our post on planning a trip to Albania . It covers everything from visas to vaccinations to what to pack, so it’s a great jumping-off point for your travel plans.

If you’re curious about the currency used in Albania and how tipping works, we recommend our Balkan currency guide to learn all about the Albanian lek and tipping culture.

If you’re looking for even more places to add to your Albania itinerary, we have a bunch of ideas for you from us and other bloggers in this collaborative post about the 15 best places to visit in Albania !

We are working on all of our Tirana guides, but for now, we have posts on the best restaurants in Tirana and the best Instagram spots in Tirana .

We add new content almost daily! We recommend you bookmark our homepage , our Albania page , or our general Balkans page to refer to when planning your trip.

Finally, Don’t Forget Your Travel Insurance!

I’m sure you’re aware that  travel insurance  is a great idea for Albania and for travel in general! This is especially true when you’re talking about hiking in remote areas where help is far away, or relaxing on the beach or traveling around cities where you can be a potential target for theft.

Stephanie and I have both been paying customers of  World Nomads  for the last three years. We love the peace of mind it gives us in case of emergencies, accidents, illnesses, theft, or trip cancellation or disruption.

While Albania is perfectly safe to travel around, there’s always a risk inherent in everyday travel, so it’s better to play it safe.

Get a travel insurance quote for your trip here.

Originally from California, Allison has been living in Bulgaria for the last two years and is obsessed with traveling around the Balkans. She has been published in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, Matador Network, and the Huffington Post. She loves befriending dogs, drinking coffee, geeking out about wine, and cooking food from around the world.

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The Perfect 5 to 7 Days in Albania Itinerary

Published on October 25, 2023

by Michael Rozenblit

Disclaimer: This article contains affiliate links. That means if you click a link and make a purchase, we may make a small commission. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. For more information, see our privacy policy.

As one of the more off-the-beaten-path destinations in Europe (and even in the Balkans) planning out the perfect Albania itinerary can seem a bit of a challenge. Figuring out where to go, what to see and how to get around when you only have 5 to 7 days in Albania can seem a bit overwhelming.

Albania is a beautiful country in the southeast of Europe with miles and miles of gorgeous Adriatic coastline to rival that of Croatia and Montenegro, vibrant cities that pulse with youthful energy and life and historic ruins with a fraction of the crowds that you’ll find in neighbouring Greece.

If you are considering a trip to Albania and don’t know where to start, then this itinerary is sure to be a help. In it, we outline a route so you can figure out how to spend five to seven days (or more!) exploring this gorgeous Balkan nation.

How Many Days in Albania?

Before mapping out the details of your route, you’re likely wondering how many days in Albania in order to see a lot of diverse places and also not feel rushed (or spend too much time in transit and not enough time in the destinations itself).

In general, plan to spend at the very least 5 days in Albania if you want to see more than just the capital. Ideally, you would want a week or more if you want to spend time in an array of different locations in the country.

Albania is not a large country, however, it can take a bit of time to get from one point to another so this is something to keep in mind when figuring out how many days to set aside for your itinerary. There are also a surprising amount of great places to visit that really deserve the time, so if you can, try to spend one week in Albania.

Even if you only have 5 days to spend, you will still be able to take in a great deal of sites and historic towns and cities in the centre of the country. While you may not have all the time to see the southern Adriatic coast or some of the ancient ruins the country has to offer, it’s enough time to get a good feel for the nation.

Getting To & Around Albania

If you plan to simply visit Albania as a stand-alone trip, then your best bet is to fly into Tirana’s international airport. There are quite a few connections to Tirana from destinations all over Europe, so it’s easy to get to from abroad.

Many travellers also head to Albania as part of a longer trip through the Balkans or Greece. If you’re coming from elsewhere in the Balkans. you can arrive to Albania via bus from Montenegro, North Macedonia or Kosovo. Most major cities in these areas have connections to Tirana and it can be a great continuation for your trip.

If you’re travelling to Albania from Greece, you can reach the country via ferry from Corfu or overland from the mainland. Regardless, it would make the most sense to do this route in reverse – beginning in Sarande and ending in Tirana.

Once in Albania, it can be tough to figure out how to get around. In the cities like Tirana, you can generally rely on your own two feet while there. And if you want to get around via public transport, this is definitely a viable option.

There is a robust bus network in Albania, however, it can be a bit of a challenge to navigate it and to figure out where there are connections. If you’re in doubt, always check with the reception at your accommodation – they will likely be able to set you in the right direction.

If you are adventurous and want to take the most control over your trip to Albania, then consider hiring a car .

Driving in Albania can be a bit chaotic and it’s best if you feel you are experienced, however, it can be worth it if you want to have the most freedom in your itinerary and want to venture even further off the beaten path. An Albania road trip is a great idea if you’re a confident driver!

5 to 7-Day Albania Itinerary

Day 1 – tirana.

The most logical starting point for any Albania trip is its capital city of Tirana . Located in the north centre of the country, spending a couple of days exploring this dynamic and chaotic city is essential whenever you travel to Albania.

Spend your first day seeing the highlights of Tirana. It’s a pretty compact city and most things are located within easy reach of one another, however, there is a lot packed into a small area. To learn more about the history of the city, consider joining a free walking tour  or  a paid walking tour  of the city.

Begin in Skanderbeg Square, the main gathering point in the city. From there, you can visit the National History Museum and take in the imposing Et’hem Bej Mosque.

Those interested in Albania’s communist history will be interested in the House of Leaves Museum and, of course, you cannot miss a stroll along the pedestrianised Rruga Murat Toptani and exploring the Fortress of Justinian area.

Hotel Antigone – Centrally located in the heart of Tirana, this 3-star hotel has a range of rooms along with breakfast, room service and an on-site restaurant and bar.

Hotel Boutique Vila 135 – This luxury hotel in the centre of Tirana has amenities like breakfast, a restaurant/bar on site, parking included and an airport shuttle. There are several plush rooms on offer.

Trip’n Hostel   – Offering both dorms and private rooms, this hostel is centrally located and has great common areas for guests to enjoy. A perfect option for budget and solo travellers.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Tirana hotels!

Day 2 – Tirana

Your second day should also be dedicated to digging deeper in Tirana and seeing more of what this city has to offer.

Spend some time at the Bunk’Art 2 Museum, a converted communist-era bunker turned history museum. Then, cross the river over the Tanner’s Bridge and take some time to explore the Blloku neighbourhood.

Here, you can take in iconic buildings like the Pyramid of Tirana (built as a museum dedicated to former dictator Enver Hoxha) and take in Mother Teresa Square or visit the Grand Park of Tirana. After taking in this area of the city, it’s time to get a great view.

Ride the cable car (known as the Dajti Express) to the top of Moun Dajti, a mountain overlooking the city. Here, there are plenty of fun activities, such as mini golf and rollerblading.

Day 3 – Durres

After a couple of days exploring Tirana, it’s time to move on and see some other areas of the country. Plan to spend the majority of your day in the coastal town of Durres, however, where you choose to spend the night is up to you.

Especially if you’re travelling around by a rental car, it can be easy to stop in Durres for the day and end in Berat to spend the night.

You could also do this if travelling by bus as the buses from Tirana to Berat stop in Durres, so it is on the way – if you are taking public transport, you will have to find storage for your luggage, which can be an inconvenience. You could also opt to spend the night in Durres and continue onto Berat first thing the next morning.

Durres is located only about 30 minutes drive and 45 minutes on the bus from Tirana. Once you’re there, the best activity is to simply take the time to lounge on the beautiful beach and enjoy the gorgeous Adriatic.

You can also take in historic sites – most notably the Durres Amphitheatre. This massive amphitheatre dates back to the 2nd century CE and is very impressive. History buffs will also love the Archaeological Museum, which houses artefacts from the Hellenistic, Greek and Roman periods.

Hotel Bila Nino – This 3-star hotel in Berat has a number of comfortable rooms along with a garden, terrace and bar for guests to enjoy. There is also free parking on site.

Hotel Republika Berat – A good luxury option, this 4-star hotel is located in the centre of Berat. They have a range of rooms to choose from, private parking, an airport shuttle and breakfast each morning.

Berat Backpackers Hostel – Backpackers and budget travellers will love this highly-rated hostel. Located in an old house in central Berat, they have great common areas and both dorms and private rooms.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Berat hotels!

Day 4 – Berat

Day four of this itinerary for Albania is dedicated to exploring the historic town of Berat. Known as the “town of a thousand windows,” this medieval town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Home to Albania’s largest castle (the Berat Kala), there is a lot of history to take in here and it is absolutely beautiful.

Berat is known for its wide collection of beautifully preserved Ottoman-era houses that decorate the historic Mangalem quarter of the Old Town – this was the traditional Muslim area of the city. The other part of the old town – Gorica, located across the river – was the historic Christian quarter of Berat.

While in this beautiful city, take the time to wander around the old town and feel its living history. Of course, you cannot miss a hike up to the castle – which will provide excellent views of the city below. There is also a lovely, village-like atmosphere around the castle. There are walking tours available if you want to explore with a guide.

If you want to venture a bit outside the city centre, then there are also some wineries where you can sample some locally-made vintages or you can join a cooking class to learn more about traditional Albanian cuisine. You can also head out to the nearby Bogove Waterfall.

In the evening, you can’t miss a stroll along Boulevard Republika – the main pedestrianised thoroughfare in Berat. This provides excellent people-watching opportunities and an unrivalled energy.

Day 5 – Gjirokaster

If you’re seeing Albania in 5 days, this is the final day for you – and boy, is it a great one! Your destination for this day is the beautiful UNESCO-listed town of Gjirokaster. Located in the south of Albania, you’re going to need to have an early start to get here – especially if you’re taking the bus! Getting from Berat to Gjirokaster will take about 3 hours.

Known as the Stone City, Gjirokaster is an absolutely beautiful, historic city that should not be missed when you visit Albania. In modern times, it’s known as the birthplace of Enver Hoxha, the former Albanian dictator, however, there is plenty of other history here as well.

Of course, no visit to Gjirokaster is complete without wandering around the medieval-era castle, which was originally constructed in the 13th Century. Also, make sure to take the time to stroll through the Old Bazaar, where you can browse through artisan shops and maybe pick up some interesting souvenirs from your trip.

While wandering around the old town, take in the historic, Ottoman-era stone houses – these historic homes are part of the reason that Gjirokaster is inscribed on the UNESCO list.

Hotel Bebej Tradicional – This rustic 3-star hotel is located in the centre of historic Gjirokaster. They have several great rooms to choose from, free parking and a restaurant on the premises.

The Stone Sky Hotel – This lovely hotel has a range of comfortable rooms for guests to choose from. There is also breakfast each morning, free parking, 24-hour reception and a restaurant/bar.

Stone City Hostel – A great option for backpackers and solo visitors, this highly-rated hostel has a number of room types to choose from, great common areas and a kitchen and day trips are organised.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Gjirokaster hotels!

Day 6 – Sarande

If you’re seeing Albania in one week, then you don’t need to get as early a start as previous days – especially if you feel there is more to see in Gjirokaster! You can spend your morning here – perhaps visiting somewhere like the Cold War Tunnel Museum. This 800-metre tunnel was built as a bunker during communist times and has now been turned into a museum.

After a morning in Gjirokaster, you don’t have a long journey to the final destination of your Albania travel itinerary – Sarande, a city on the Albanian Riviera. This is one of Albania’s most popular coastal cities and it is only about 1-1.5 hours away from Gjirokaster – there are several buses that depart each day.

If you’re self-driving, consider making a detour to the famous Blue Eye – a gorgeous natural spring filled with crystal-clear water located in between Sarande and Gjirokaster.

Once you arrive in Sarande, take the time to stroll around the lovely seaside and take in the views of the gorgeous Ionian Sea.

There are plenty of beautiful beaches to lounge on along with a ruined castle to walk up to and enjoy panoramic views of the city and the sea. Plan to spend the rest of your time in Albania with Sarande as a base.

Where to Stay in Sarande

Hotel Kanes – This seaside hotel is great for visitors to Sarande. There are several rooms to choose from – many with sea views. There is a terrace to enjoy along with an airport shuttle and free parking.

Buzë Boutique Hotel – Located right on the beach, this trendy hotel has a beautiful outdoor swimming pool, a private beach area, a terrace and an on-site bar to enjoy a drink in the sunshine.

Saranda Backpackers – This waterfront hostel is a great option for budget travellers to Sarande. They have plenty of different rooms to choose from and great common areas.

Day 7 – Ksamil & Butrint

On your final day in the country, take a day trip from Sarande to the areas of Ksamil and Butrint National Park to the south of the city. Both areas are easily reached via bus from Sarande in about 30 – 40 minutes and buses leave frequently throughout the day.

Whether you’re driving yourself or taking the bus, start your day by visiting Butrint National Park, which is located furthest south on the route. This archaeological park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (there are so many in Albania! ) and is filled with fascinating ancient Greek and Roman ruins that will really put into perspective just how old and how long people have inhabited this area of the world.

In the park, you can see ruins of ancient forums, amphitheatres and temples. Set along the backdrop of the Ionian Sea, it is truly a wonderful place to end your trip and visiting here is one of the best things to do in Albania.

After exploring the park, hop on the bus (or get back in the car) and head a bit north to Ksamil . This area is home to some of Albania’s best sandy beaches and it is the perfect place to lounge around in the gorgeous sunshine and swim. You can enjoy views of Corfu not far in the distance, along with seeing some of the picturesque Ksamil islands.

If you’re leaving Albania after this day, the quickest and easiest way is to fly out via the airport on nearby Corfu in Greece, which is easily reached via ferry in about 1.5-2 hours. Alternatively, you can continue on to mainland Greece via bus or car – the closest major city is Ioannina.

Have More Time?

There are lots of different options of places to visit in Albania if you have more time. For instance, if you’re coming from Montenegro or North Macedonia (or continuing on there from Albania), it can be worth spending some time in the north of the country.

The town of Shkoder in the north of the country is gorgeous and has a lovely location on the massive Lake Shkoder – sharing a border with Montenegro.

Those looking to get up in the mountains or who want to add some activity to their trip will love exploring the Albanian Alps in the northeast of the country. Particularly popular is the Valbona to Theth hike, a thru-hiking route that takes about 8 hours to complete from one village to another in some of Albania’s most beautiful national parks.

If you want to experience more of Albania’s coast, then it can be a great idea to add a stop in the lovely coastal city of Vlore in between visiting Berat and Gjirokaster.

Vlore has plenty of beautiful, sandy beaches and is considered to be one of the oldest cities in Albania. Make sure to take the time to stroll through the historic centre of the city while enjoying the vast seaside promenade.

Travelling in Albania is one of the most interesting, challenging and diverse places to head to in all of Europe. Retaining an off-the-beaten-path charm and boasting a broad and varied history, Albania is a destination that no visitor soon forgets.

Are you planning on visiting Albania? Have any questions about this itinerary? Let us know in the comments!

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About Michael Rozenblit

Michael is a co-founder and writer for The World Was Here First. Both solo and with his partner, Maggie, he has travelled to over 50 countries across the globe and has a particular affinity for the Balkans and Eastern Europe. He’s lived in numerous countries worldwide but currently resides in his hometown of Melbourne, Australia. Read more about Michael

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10-Day Road Trip Albania – The Ultimate Itinerary

Albania is a hidden gem in the Balkans that tourists often overlook. But what this small country lacks in size, it more than makes up for in natural beauty and interesting history. The best way to visit Albania is by road trip.

Albania is a beautiful country with a rich history and culture. Between the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, Albania has some of the most stunning coastlines in Europe. Inland, you’ll find towering mountains, pristine lakes, and quaint villages. If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination, Albania is the perfect place for you.

This 10-day road trip itinerary will take you to some of Albania’s most beautiful places. You’ll start in Tirana, the capital city, and make your way down to Saranda on the Albanian Riviera.

Along the way, you’ll stop at Lake Ohrid , one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes, and visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Gjirokastra . 10 days’ worth of adventure packed into one ultimate Albanian road trip itinerary.

You’ll also get to experience Albanian cuisine, which is a delicious blend of Mediterranean and Ottoman influences. So what are you waiting for? Start planning your trip to Albania today!

Before we start, you may want to know some practical information about driving in Albania and the weather or skip straight to the 10-day itinerary to Albania.

What are the Roads like in Albania?

The roads in Albania are generally in good condition, especially the main highways. However, there are some potholes and speed bumps, so you’ll want to take it slow when driving on smaller roads. There are also plenty of scenic stops along the way where you can take in the views.

Albania is a beautiful country to visit any time of year. However, the best time to visit depends on your travel style and preferences. If you’re looking for warm weather and long days, then the best time to visit Albania is from June to September . These months offer the warmest temperatures and longest days. If you’re looking for cooler weather and shorter days, then the best time to visit Albania is from October to May. These months offer cooler temperatures and shorter days.

Day 1 Explore Tirana

Start your Albanian road trip in the capital city of Tirana. Explore the city’s sights, including the National History Museum, Skanderbeg Square, Clock Tower, Et’hem Bey Mosque , and the Cathedral of Saint Paul . Once you’ve gotten your fill of culture and history, enjoy a traditional Albanian meal in one of the city’s many restaurants.

Day 2: Kruje

Kruje From Tirana , head north to Kruje. Kruje is a medieval town perched atop a hill in Central Albania and is home to the famous Kruja Castle , which overlooks the town below. Spend some time exploring the castle before heading into town to grab some lunch. Krujë is also known for being home to national hero Skanderbeg and for its traditional bazaar where you can buy locally made handicrafts and souvenirs. In the afternoon, visit the Ethnographic Museum to learn more about Albanian culture and History. End your day with dinner at one of Kruje’s delicious eateries.

Best tours from Kurje:

• From Tirana: Kruja castle, the old bazaar and Sarisalltik
• Kruja City & Holy Cave of Sari Salltik Day Tour

Day 3: Kruje to Durres

After breakfast in Kruje, hit the road for Durres . Durres is Albania’s largest port city and is home to some of the best beaches in the country. Spend your day lounging on the beach or exploring Durres’ Roman ruins . Make sure to try some of the fresh seafood available in Durres’ restaurants – you won’t be disappointed!

A great activity is to visit the vinyards and hills .

Day 4: Durres to Berat

Berat is known as the “city of a thousand windows” due to its distinctive architecture. Spend your day exploring Berat Castle and wandering through the old town streets. In the evening, enjoy a sunset cruise on Berat’s beautiful riverfront.

Indulge yourself and book a wine-tasting tour in Berat .

Day 5: Berat to Gjirokaster

Known as Albania’s “stone city”. Gjirokaster , a UNESCO World Heritage-listed town known for its Ottoman architecture, is home to an impressive castle which overlooks the town below. Walk through the castle grounds before heading into town for lunch. In the afternoon, explore Gjirokaster’s old town streets and visit one of its many museums. For something different, visit Belsh Citadel —a Soviet-era military base that has been turned into an open-air museum. Be sure to try some of Gjirokaster’s delicious traditional food – kofta are a must!

Day 6 and 7: Sarande to Ksamil Islands

After breakfast in Sarande , Visit Sarande’s old town, stroll along its promenade and swim at one of its many beaches or take a boat tour to nearby Blue Cave . The next day, take a boat ride out to Ksamil Islands – an archipelago of four small islands just off Albania’s coast. Ksamil Islands are known for their dramatic cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and tranquil atmosphere. Spend your day swimming, sunbathing, and exploring these stunning islands before returning to Sarande in the evening. Sarande is a great place to try some fresh seafood.

Day 8: Sarande to Butrint

After breakfast in Sarande, drive south to Butrint – a UNESCO World Heritage Site located on an eponymous island just off Albania’s coast. Butrint was once an important trading port during Roman times, and today it is an important archaeological site. Spend your day exploring Butrint’s ancient ruins, including its theatre, baths, and forum. Make sure to stop by the Butrint museum for an informative overview of Butrint’s history.

Day 9: Llogara National Park

After breakfast in Butrint, continue driving south towards Llogara National Park – a scenic nature reserve located atop Albania’s Llogara Pass. Llogara National Park is known for its breathtaking views, hiking trails, and rare wildlife. Spend your day hiking through Llogara National Park before stopping at one of its viewpoints to enjoy panoramic views of the Albanian Riviera stretching out below.

Day 10: Borsh From Llogara National Park

Drive down winding mountain roads towards Borsh – a small village located on the Albanian Riviera. Borsh is known for its secluded beaches, clear waters, and relaxed atmosphere. Spend your final day swimming, sunbathing, and enjoying fresh seafood before returning to Tirana tomorrow.

Albania is an incredible country with so much to offer visitors. There’s something for everyone in Albania. This 10-day road trip itinerary covers all of the must-see sights in Albania and some hidden gems off the beaten path.

Let us know in the comments your favourite part of Albania.

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Amazing post about Albania! I’ve been doing a bit of research and Albania seem to be coming up everywhere. And the more I look, the more interesting it seems. But I’m wondering though if it is possible to travel alone and not do a road trip around Albania? As much as I love a road trip, sometimes its not the best for travelling on my own.

Thank you so much, we didn’t travel solo but we didn’t come across any problems whilst travelling. I guess if you are travelling solo you would need to take some normal precautions like not hitch hiking or travelling at night. In terms of transport buses are the most common form of public transportation in Albania, and they connect many cities, towns, and villages. There are both intercity and local buses, and they can be a relatively inexpensive way to travel within Albania. However, be aware that bus schedules may not always be reliable, and buses may not be as modern or comfortable as in some other countries. Hope this helps, let us know if you managed to go to Albania. 😉

Hello Asha! Thank you for making such a wonderful travel blog. I really appreciate this on point detailed guide.

Thank you we are so happy you find it useful.

Great itinerary. Do you have a list of the hotels you stayed in each place?

LOTUS EATERS TRAVEL

Our two week albania itinerary: an epic road trip without a hire car.

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lotuseaters.travel

OUR TWO WEEK ALBANIA ITINERARY: AN EPIC ROAD TRIP WITHOUT A HIRE CAR.

We had both visited Albania before, Emma for a brief trip to Durres in 2022 and John to Tirana back in 2019. But the shortest of visits previously had left us wanting more. With the month of August totally free in our diaries, we decided that the small but delightful gem of Albania would be the perfect destination for us.

Having been before, we knew that Albania was not only an affordable country for budget travellers, but was also a very safe and welcoming place. We are always on the look out for somewhere that feels a little undiscovered with new hikes, new food and somewhere to get our teeth into and explore. Albania delivered this and more.

As I write this, I am sitting in an Albanian campsite surrounded by olive groves, with nothing but the owner of the campsite for company. As she tends to her garden, all I can hear is the gentle sound of crickets and the distant hum of a radio. We’ve spent the day at a delightful beach on the Albanian riviera, swimming in crystal clear water and basking in August rays. Later, we will be heading out to a quiet taverna beside our campsite, where a few glasses or raki will be consumed as an accompaniment to barbecued meat, fresh salad and tzatziki.

This may sound like a typical day on a Greek island, but I think it’s unfair to draw a comparison between Albanian and any of it’s neighbors like Greece and Italy, because Albania has it’s own character and its own unique and enthralling history. It has things that make it distinctly Albanian – the language, the food and the chaotic bus system.

Albania is not perfect and certainly there are some mistakes that we would not make if we visited a second time around. Albania can get extremely busy in the summer. It can feel less “undiscovered” and more spoiled by tourism in some areas, but if you look hard enough there is far more to it than sunbed wars in Ksamil. It has well and truly won us over.

Read on to find out more about our adventures and our two week Albania itinerary – a road trip without a hire car.

Albania top picks 😍

Short on time? Some of our top recommendations for Albania are:

Accommodation 🏨

• Mi Casa es Tu Casa – Shkoder
• Rupa Guest House – Theth
• Hotel Villa Fernando – Tirana
• Guesthouse Gjerjo – Berat
• Sea View Breeze – Himare
• Theth to Valbona Hike
• Kruje Bazar and Castle
• Shala River and Komani Lake
• Tirana Walking Tour (or make your own – more on that below)

The currency of Albania is LEK and you will need cash. ATMs charge high fees, we recommend taking currency with you.

Transport 🚌

Short buses cannot be booked in advance but, we recommend booking longer journeys ahead of time using Book Away.

A quick note on spelling of locations in Albania. For ease, we have used the English translation of the place names, for example Vlora rather than Vlorë and Saranda rather than Sarandë. When you are in Albania, you will see the Albanian spellings on road signs.

Our two week Albania itinerary: a road trip without a hire car

When we found out that Albania is the approximate size of Wales, in the United Kingdom, we immediately thought about embracing the relatively small size of the country and taking a road trip to visit as much of Albania as possible.

This idea of driving around Albania with the wind in our hair, was quickly put to rest when we saw the price of a hire car. Granted, it was August (peak summer season) and we had left our planning quite last minute, but it didn’t feel we could possibly justify around 60 Euros per day for a hire car.

This is how we came to find ourselves exploring Albania “road trip style” but sans hire car. Instead, we made use of buses, which are the main mode of public transport, our own two feet, a few taxis and a token ferry ride.

This blog post sets out our two week Albania itinerary, travelling from the mountains of the North to the Albanian riviera in the South – all without a hire car.

Our two week Albania itinerary: route and map

We actually were in Albania for three weeks, extending our trip slightly to accommodate a longer stay in Saranda, a longer period in Tirana and a stay in Dhermi/ Gijepe. Our two week Albania itinerary omits this, but is adapted to include the best of the beautiful places to see in Albania.

This is our recommended two week Albania itinerary for anyone who wants a mix of hiking, relaxing on the beach and cultural stops and wants to travel on public transport We are generally budget conscious travellers , so this Albania itinerary focuses on keeping costs down but without sacrificing the top experiences.

Here’s an overview of our two week Albania itinerary:

Tirana airport to Kruja (arrived at midnight)

Day 1/ Explore Kruja and stay in Shkoder

Day 2/ Travel to Theth and hike blue eye Theth, stay in Theth

Day 3/ Hike Theth to Valbona , stay in Valbona

Day 4/ Hike Mount Rosit, stay in Valbona

Day 5/ Travel Valbona to Tirana, stay Tirana

Day 6/ Explore Tirana, travel to Berat, stay in Berat

Day 7/ Explore Berat, stay in Berat (visit nearby vineyards)

Day 8/ Travel to Himare, stay in Himare

Day 9/ Explore Gjepe Beach and Jala, stay Himare

Day 10/ Beach day in Himare, stay Himare

Day 11/ travel to Ksamil, stay in Ksamil

Day 12/ beach day in Ksamil, stay Ksamil

Day 13/ explore surrounding area of Ksamil, stay Ksamil

Day 14/ travel to Tirana airport and fly home

Our Albania itinerary day by day

Albania itinerary day one: kruja and shkoder.

We arrived late night (01:00) into Tirana airport on a bustling flight from Rome. Initially, we considered staying in Tirana and travelling to Shkoder the next day. But, we decided to head to Kruja straight from the airport, keen not to miss any opportunities to sight see.

Kruja is a short drive from Tirana airport, a town at 600m above sea level with a quaint and historic feel to it. It is famous for being the home town of Albania’s hero Skanderbeg and the frontier for his resistance against the Ottoman empire. Today, it makes a delightful tourist pit stop on route to Shkoder and the North of Albania.

How to get there

Kruja is only around 30 minutes from Tirana airport, we took a taxi which we pre-booked with our guest house. This cost 30 Euros, perhaps a little steep but it was at the unfriendly hour of 01:00. A direct taxi from the airport is an option at whatever time of the day.

From Kruja to Shkoder can be a 1 hour 45 minute journey, or it can take up to 3 hours depending on traffic. We opted for a taxi, paying 60 Euros. An expensive trip, but we comforted ourselves with knowing this would be our last long taxi ride of the trip.

💡Tip: If you’re travelling on a budget, we suggest skipping Kruja and instead heading straight to Shkoder. You can do the journey from Tirana to Shkoder with public transport for as little as 300 LEK. You’ll need to get from Tirana airport to Tirana first, but this is an easy journey during daylight hours. Whereas travelling via Kruja requires a taxi.

What to do in Kruja

Kruja is a small town, there are a few highlights to take in whilst you visit. We started with a slow meander through the Bazaar, a market selling Albanian artifacts, from cosy slippers to traditional head wear. Be sure to ask the stall holders for information about their handmade pieces.

Next, we explored Kruja castle which is easily walkable from the Bazaar . It is a small place, you need no more than around 20 minutes to nose around. There’s an optional museum inside the castle, where you can find out more about the local hero Skanderberg. We chose not to go in, as reviews suggested there were few exhibits with English language translations and we are not fans of museums with little information. The nearby Ethnographic museum was unfortunately closed for refurbishment when we visited.

Following this, we explored a little and discovered a shrine , the largest building is under construction currently but there is a smaller shrine to visit. A local elderly man tried to offer us an “exclusive tour” to the building site, but we politely declined.

What to do in Shkoder

We didn’t have a huge amount of time to explore Shkoder. After a few drinks in our wonderful hostel , and a delightful supper, we had just enough time to walk past the modern Mosque in Shkoder and peruse the bars on Kole Idromeno Street.

In Kruja, there are a number of delightful guest houses to choose from. This was our first foray into an Albanian guest house and it was something we enjoyed immensely. We stayed at Meti Guest House which has a fantastic view and very welcoming hosts. For a more mid-range, rather than budget option, we suggest Kruja Albergo Diffuso , which has a wonderful location inside Kruja castle walls.

💡Guesthouses in Albania are some of the most affordable place to stay in the country. They are family run and tend to be homes that have been opened up to guests. Most have only a handful of rooms, making them feel very welcoming. A traditional Albanian breakfast is often included in the room rate and more often than that seems to be cooked by Grandma. Staying in guesthouses can be a great way to get to know more about Albanian culture.

Where to stay in Shkoder

In Shkoder, there are a mix of hotels, hostels and apartments in the centre of town. If you’re travelling onwards to Theth, it’s best to pick accommodation in the centre of town. However, do note that the highlight of Shkoder, the lake, is 6km outside town, so if you want to spend some time there, it can be helpful to book accommodation near to the lake.

We stayed at Mi Casa es Tu Casa , which is a backpackers hostel. It’s a really fun place, with great communal space, complete with a few friendly hostel dogs roaming around. Dorm beds or private room are available. The staff here will also sort out your bus tickets for you too.

Eat and drink

In Kruja, there are a few restaurants near to the castle and the Bazaar. Prices are fairly consistent between these places and more local restaurants, despite being near to the tourist attractions.

Shkoder has decent nightlife and plenty of restaurants to choose from. We opted for Fisi Restaurant , which was near to our hostel and serving traditional and delicious Albanian grilled meats. For bars, one of the most pleasant areas of Shkoder is Kole Idromeno Street , a pedestrianized area lined with numerous bars and restaurants.

Albania itinerary day two: Travel to Theth and Hike Theth Blue Eye

On our second day, we were chomping at the bit to head up to the Albanian Alps and start hiking. We had heard wonderful things about the Alps, but it’s fair to say that the whole experience far surpassed our expectations.

We left at the crack of the dawn, and after a mad dash to the ATM, one of us nearly missed the bus. Once both safely on board, we wound our way up the mountain, bouncing up and down on a very threadbare seat in the back of an old 4 x4. Arriving in Theth at 09:00, we dropped of some luggage in our guest house and set out on the famous Theth Blue Eye Hike.

For more detailed information on all the hikes we did in the Albanian Alps, you can find our guide to walking in the Accursed Mountains here.

Buses leave Shkoder at 07:00 bound for Theth. Rather than an organized coach/ bus, transport is provided by mini-buses in combination with 4×4 vehicles.

The journey takes around 2 hours and 15 minutes on a good day, this includes a short coffee break stop at a cafe in the mountains.

It is best to arrange a ticket with your hostel or hotel the night before. The company will put on as many vehicles as required for the number of travellers but it’s best to express your intention to get the bus the next day. Buses or 4x4s will collect you from your accommodation.

The cost of the journey is 10 Euros, but hostels may take a small commission fee to secure your ticket.

The journey to Theth is not a completely comfortable one, if you get motion sickness, you may want to consider managing this as you climb up many mountain roads and could quite easily lose your breakfast!

If you wanted to skip the Blue Eye Hike and save a day in the Alps, you could walk straight to Valbone on the Theth to Valbone hike. However, we would strongly urge you to take your time in the Alps and enjoy the Blue Eye Hike on day one.

We’ve written in detail here about the Blue Eye Hike , but in short, it is a 17km round trip to visit a glorious swimming area filled with bright blue water.

💡If you’re not into hiking, but still want to visit the North of Albania, you could visit Lake Konami and Lumi I Shales. From Shkoder you can take a bus to Koman to explore from there. Find out more on the lake Komani website here.

Where to stay

Theth is full of guest house accommodation, from basic to luxury. There are also campsites and a smattering of more upmarket hotels.

We stayed at  Rupa Guest house in Theth . I chose this place as it had excellent reviews and I read about how it is run by a friendly lady in her 70s. It didn’t disappoint. The guest house is utterly charming, with the option for dinner or breakfast which can be eaten in the pretty garden.

Rates at Rupa Guest House are around 45 Euros for a double room with private bathroom. Book with  Booking.com here.

Theth is a hamlet, rather than a town, however there are a few places to get food and drink in the area.

There is a new food store, a  small market  selling sandwiches and dry foods. It’s open from 07:00 until late. Bread arrives at 11:00, so if you want some for your sandwiches for the next day, shop after 11:00! Thankfully, the shop accepts card payment too. It is a little expensive, but to be expected in a remote mountain village.

When you arrive in the morning, the mini market is the best place for food as it is the only place open. For the evening, there are a few restaurants (three), which sell basic food and drinks. We had a delicious  pizza at Jezerca , served with an ice cold beer.

The other option for dinner, and the one most people take, is to eat in your guesthouse. Most will offer a typically Albanian mountain meal.

Albania itinerary day three: Theth to Valbona hike

Today was the day that we had been most excited about, the walk from Theth National Park to Valbona National Park.

The Theth to Valbona Hike is historically a mule trail, used to get across the mountains. Today, it is one of the most popular hikes, if not the most popular hike, in Albania. This gives the hike a really fun atmosphere as there are plenty of other hikers enjoying the trip.

After an initial climb, lasting around 2-3 hours, you will reach the top. There are a few cafes around on the route, but we recommend packing lunch that you can enjoy at the top. Then, stopping at one of the delightful mountain bars on the route down to Valbona to enjoy an ice cold beer. You’ll need it after the climb!

Enjoy spectacular scenery and views as far as the eye can see. This truly is a special hike and one of the best that we have ever done.

💡 it is also possible to walk from Valbona to Theth and do this circuit in reverse. We’ve written more about that option here.

You can find the start of the trail head, just behind the supermarket here.

Theth to Valbona hike – here are the essential facts.

You can find our full guide to walking from Theth to Valbona here.

Valbona has guest houses or camping options. There are quaint family run places, large guest houses or mountain lodges to choose from. Do note, that the accommodation in Valbona is mostly a few kms from the trail head. You can walk or take a taxi if required. The walk is flat and easy along a quiet road.

On our first night, we stayed at  Guest House HYSA.  This place is on the main stretch of road through Valbona, with a spacious garden. They serve simple but great food, including an ample breakfast to set you up for a day of hiking. You can also ask to purchase a packed lunch for your hike too. Rates are around 35 Euros for two people.  Book here on booking.com.

The second place we enjoyed was the tiny family run guest house  Butjina Sherifaj.  We paid 30 Euros for one night with a private bathroom, this included a huge breakfast. Dinner is an additional cost but inexpensive, genuine Albanian home cooking. The guest house is nestled into the mountains a little out of town, well worth the walk given the peaceful location.  Book here on booking.com.

Valbona is a small mountain village, it has one tiny market shop. Otherwise, food is found in guest houses. Many guest house also open a restaurant, so you don’t have to eat in the guest house you are staying in. Breakfast tends to be included in room rates and you can normally arrange a packed lunch with your guest house too.

We ate in our guesthouses on both nights in Valbona and were delighted with this choice. In expensive and local food, washed down with Raki.

Albania itinerary day four: Mount Rosit hike

For the third day of hiking, we recommend staying in Valbona and tackling the  Mount Rosit Hike . This hike takes you to the base of Mount Rosit (also called Rosni peak) at the Montenegro border. This is a 19.5km “out and back” trail, with the option to climb Mount Rosit rather than just reach the base.

There are two trails in Valbone that join the Mount Rosit hike trail. One is near to  the school  and the other is a little further into town. This  Wikiloc trail  shows the two options.

The first half of the hike feels quite relentless, with little views out of the woods. But, after passing this you will be rewarded with more open views.

We recommend leaving very early in the morning to beat the heat. The hike takes between 7 and 10 hours (honestly, it’s very slow going).

You can find more information on the Mount Rosit hike here on our Albanian Alps hiking guide.

💡This could be substituted with an easier hike, or a visit to Kayak in Lake Komani or bathe in Lumi i Shales. Find out more on the Lake Komani Website here.

The hike returns to Valbona, so you can stay in a guesthouse there. With forward planning, we recommend booking the same guesthouse so that you can leave luggage there. Trust us, you will want your bags to be as light as possible for the hike up the mountain.

There are no places for refreshment on the Mount Rosit hike. Ensure that you pack enough lunch and water for the hike. It really does take a long time to walk this route, so do not underestimate it.

Albania itinerary day five: Tirana

Today was mostly a travelling day, leaving Valbona after a leisurely breakfast and eventually arriving into Tirana at around 20:00. The journey is long, but enjoyable owing to the ferry ride into Koman accompanied by spectacular scenery.

We really loved Tirana, so much so that we’ve decided to go back and stay for an extended period in the future. Especially in the summer, Tirana has a cosmopolitan feel. The city is peppered with tree lined boulevards, with excellent bike lanes which enable scooters and cyclists to scoot around freely. Cafes by day and bars by night spill out onto the pavements. It is a city with a lived in feel, offering sharp contrast to the coastal resort towns.

It seems like a complicated journey from Valbona to Tirana, but it is not. You can book it all as one journey and just follow the crowds as most people will be doing a similar trip.

First, you will take a minibus from Valbona at 10:00. This will collect you from your guest house. The journey is on mountain roads.

Next, you will take a ferry from Fierze to Koman which leaves around 13:00. The ferry takes three hours, but is a stunning journey. The ferry is crowded and small, but it does have a bar and bathroom. We recommend sitting inside if you want to avoid the sun!

Finally, you will take a bus from the ferry terminal in Koman to Tirana. Expect this to take around 3 to 4 hours, potentially longer in traffic.

Book with your guesthouse in Valbona, through  Komani Lake ferry , or on  Albanian Bus.  The journey should cost around 30 Euros.

What to do in Tirana

If you’re in Tirana for only a short time, as with this itinerary, you will only have the opportunity to visit the main sites. Here are our suggestions:

1/ Visit the House of Leaves Museum

The House of Leaves Museum is an incredibly interesting expose on surveillance in Albania’s communist era. The house itself, was once a medical clinic but during the communist period, it was taken over by secretive security forces. It then became a covert operations centre used for spying and interrogation.

It is a well curated museum, with lost of information and poignant exhibits. Well worth a visit. Tickets cost 700 LEK and we recommend spending around 90 minutes there.

2/ Visit either the National Museum or Bunkart 2

There are two further interesting attractions in Tirana. We would recommend picking one, but not both. However, if you’re on a budget, we suggest just visiting The House of Leaves Museum only.

The National Museum is in Skanderberg Square. It costs 500 LEK to get in and houses exhibits demonstrating the history of Albania, from Roman times to present day. Whilst the exhibits are interesting to look at, there is very little information in English so it’s a bit of a challenge to learn much.

Your second choice is Bunkart 2 , a communist era bunker that has been turned into a sort of art gallery. Here, pictures speak a thousand words, showing the history of the police and security forces during the communist era. The cost is 400 LEK.

3/ Take yourself on walking tour

Tirana is a very walkable city, but if you don’t amble with a bit of purpose you may not find the best bits. We recommend that you take yourself on a bit of walking tour.

Start with Skanderberg Sqaure , the main square in Tirana. Next, stop for coffee on Murat Toptani Street a pretty modern promenade next to Tirana castle, which has now been turned into a cute shopping mall.

Once caffeinated, take a stroll through Taiwan Park. Then climb the Tirana pyramid (a glossy conference centre that on John’s last visit a couple of years ago was not much more than a pile of bricks with graffiti).)

Finally, head to the Blloku district , an upscale area of Tirana, housing some of the fancier bars and restaurants of the city. Personally, we preferred the low key bars and restaurants around Kavaja Street , so head there if you’re looking for a more local affair.

if you’d rather something more organised you can also book a walking tour here.

You’ll want to be central in Tirana. Accommodation is inexpensive, so you should have a good amount of choice.

Budget: For a budget option, Tirana has some excellent apartments in the centre of the city. Something like this one bed place, would suit for a night.

Mid-Range: Hotel Villa Fernando Tirana is a divine opulent hotel at a mid-range price. Here traditional Albanian design meets hotel chic in the heart of the city.

Luxury: Maritim Hotel Tirana is an excellent choice for a very central 5 star hotel. It even has a rooftop bar for cocktails overlooking the city.

There are some excellent places to eat and drink in Tirana. We tried a couple of different Albanian restaurants in the area of Kavaja Street where there are numerous restaurants.

Tymi King Pils became a favourite and we returned to it twice, ever creatures of habit. This is a low ley grill restaurant, with excellent fresh salads, meat and ice cold white wine.

For a more upscale affair, try Salt (sushi) , Lift (rooftop steak restaurant) or Artigiaino (Italian).

For a pre-dinner drink, we enjoyed Goat Gastro Bar . It has wonderful seats on the pavement on a quiet Tirana street and has a good wine list. If you’re after somewhere a bit more budget, Cafe du Pont is a local joint with a bit of a dive bar (in a good way) feel.

For cocktails or an after dinner drink, we loved Hemingway Bar. Sure, it’s a little gimmicky, but we very much enjoyed a rum or two as we sat outside watching old movies on the projector screen. Find it he re .

Albania itinerary day six: Tirana and Berat

We spent half a day in Tirana before heading to Berat in the early evening. Berat is a short journey from Tirana, so you can easily travel between the two in a day and still find time for sightseeing.

Berat is a UNESCO heritage site, known as the “town of a thousand windows”, because of the unique architecture. The river Osum cuts through the town, dividing the two neighbourhoods of Mangalem and Gorica.

We hadn’t quite appreciated how beautiful Berat would be, nor how popular. It really is right on the tourist trail. In part, because of the location just south of Tirana. But also because of the history and cultural significance. Plus, Berat is nestled cosily in the middle of wine country (more on that below!)

After arriving to Berat by bus (and taking a short nap!) we explored the town. On our first evening, we explored the cobbled streets of Mangalem before settling in for sunset drinks and supper on the Gorica side of the river.

The bus from Tirana to Berat takes between two and three hours and costs 400 LEK. It is a regular bus, normally running once an hour or so. The tricky bit is getting to the bus station in the first place, which is not in the centre of town. You can find the location on Google Maps here.

When you arrive in Berat, you will also not arrive into the centre. the bus station is around 30 minutes walk or a short taxi ride from the historic centre of the town.

Berat is small and very walkable. In a day, you can easily cover the main attractions.

We suggest starting early morning to walk up to the castle, avoiding the heat of the day. There are two routes to the castle, one more scenic and one short cut ( found here. ) The castle is really more of a ruin of a citadel, than a castle. Spend an hour or so exploring up here, perhaps enjoying a coffee. Be sure to also see the ruins of the cistern and the Mosque too.

After this, we recommend ambling around the old town on both sides of the river. Stop by gift shops and quaint places for lunch or a drink. It’s best to be on the Gorica side of the river for sunset. You can climb a hill in Gorica to watch the sunset, or just stop for a drink in Good Vibes bar instead.

Once sun has started to set, head to the newer part of Berat to the promenade. We sat in the park here for a while, watching the locals come out for an evening stroll, kids playing and the older gentleman engaged in some uber competitive board games. Once darkness has fallen, grab drinks on the promenade (see where to eat and drink below).

We had read quite conflicting things about the price difference between Mangalem and Gorica, with many blogs suggesting that Gorica is much cheaper than it’s neighbour. In our experience, there really wasn’t much difference at all. In fact, accommodation in Mangalem was very inexpensive. Berat in general is one of the cheaper places to stay on our two week itinerary, so you may want to splurge a little on a luxurious spot.

Budget: Try Hava Baci Guesthouse , a low key family run space nestled into the cobbled streets of Mangalem.

Mid-Range: Guesthouse Gjergo is a spacious and well located mid-range guesthouse in the heart of Mangelam with a supurb rating on Booking.com.

Luxury: If you are looking for a luxury stay in Berat, staying within the castle wall has to be the best option. Berati Castle Hotel is just that, a 4 star hotel inside the castle walls. Total romance.

Homemade food Lilli, is the top rated restaurant in Berat and a very popular place. It seemed that every tourist in town was trying to eat there, suffice to say, it is difficult to get in without a reservation.

For local food we enjoyed the grill restaurant Xhimtiku Grill , which can be found across the river. This is a very low key place, but popular with locals and tourists alike. It is handily next to a fabulous bar, Good Vibes , where you can savour a cocktail with a sunset view of the river.

The modern area of Berat has an enjoyable promenade, lined with the bars which excellent for a drink with some people viewing. Be sure to stroll here after dinner for a nightcap.

Albania itinerary day seven: Berat

We chose to spend a second day in Berat, in part because it is a lovely town, but also we were keen to visit a vineyard in the area and slow down the pace a bit from the previous couple of days of travelling.

Waking up early to beat the heat, we took a morning walk up to the castle before enjoying a slow cup of coffee in town. Once the weather had cooled, we took a (slightly hair raising) taxi ride to the Pupa vineyard to enjoy some wine tasting and food.

If you take a second day in Berat, you can continue to explore the town, visiting museums and enjoying long lunches. As an alternative, you can explore local vineyards.

Pupa Winery is a family run winery around 20 minutes from Berat. We visited for a delightful wine tasting and tour. For 150 Lek (around 15 Euros) we were treated to three wines and a glass or Raki, plus a spread of nibbles. It may not have been the best wine tasting we have ever been to, but we really enjoyed learning a little more about Albanian wine. And of course, the excuse for some afternoon wine drinking.

Nurellari Winery is a larger winery around 10 minutes walk from Pupa. We understand that they offer a wine tasting of five wines for 25 Euros. Unfortunately, you must book ahead and we weren’t able to call in for an impromptu tasting. Do book ahead if you want to to do the double and visit Nurellari as well as Pupa.

Albania itinerary day eight, none and ten: Himare and surrounds

After the Alps and the towns and cities, it’s time to retreat to the Albanian Rivieria. You could choose to base yourself anywhere along the coast, we opted for Himare as a base for a few days, in part because it is close to other beaches that can be explored on foot. But, also because it is a more laid back town and very affordable. Himare was definitely our favourite coastal area and one we would return to.

💡Another option is to base yourself in Dhermi for a few days. This makes it easier to explore Gjiepe. If you stay in Dhermi you should be able to head South to Himare or Saranda on public bus, but this may require some help from a local in the know to work out the exact timings of the bus passing Dhermi. Nevertheless we do think it is possible as numerous buses pass Dhermi on route from Vlora to Saranda every day. In Albania it is common to flag down buses and also to disembark the bus at unofficial stops. Just note, Dhermi is a little more expensive than Himare.

From Tirana, you can take a direct bus to Himare, or two connecting buses via Vlora. We opted for the latter, as we had a plan to do some hiking from Dhermi (North of Himare). More on that below.

We would suggest opting for the direct bus to Himare if you can. It departs twice per day at 05:30 and 13:00 and costs 1000 lek. The bus departs here on the outskirts of Tirana, but arrives directly to the centre of Himare.

Beaches in Himare

Himare is such a perfect beach town. We loved how accessible the beaches are and the fact they are public.

The main one in town is Plazhi i Maraçit. But you can pretty much pitch your towel anywhere along the coast in Himare for a wonderful day of sunbathing and bobbing about in the sea.

Beaches near Himare

As we are avid hiking fans, we attempted to walk the Southern Coastal Trail along the Albanian Riviera. In classic “best laid plans” style, this was quickly aborted. In part, because it was simply too hot to hike. But also, and more importantly, because the trails are either overgrown or no longer exist.

I mention this, firstly as a warning to anyone considering walking the Southern Costal trail in Albania . And secondly because when walking parts of the trail, we discovered that there are some excellent beaches near to Himare that you can get to on foot.

Here are three of our favourite beaches in the area around Himare:

1/ Livadi Beach

Livadi Beach is a very undeveloped beach with cute tavernas, a short 30 minute walk from Hiamre. Visit here for peace and quiet and lower prices than Himare.

2/ Jala Beach

Around 30 minutes further from Livadi, you can walk on to Jala Beach. Jala was one of our favourites, albeit it is a little expensive for sunbeds. But the water is some of the nicest we found in the area. Crystal clear and calm.

3/ Gjipe Beach

Gjipe can only be reached by foot but you can get close to it by car or cab. There’s a car park 1.5km from the beach with a short trail to the beach. The main road is around 3km away, with a scenic hiking trail leading to the beach.

Gjipe is a stunning beach, rugged and a lot less developed than nearby beaches as it’s so remote. From Himare, it is difficult to get here on public transport, but you have a few options.

Firstly, you could hire a scooter for the day to explore the coastline. Secondly, you could take a taxi to and from Gjipe. Or, for the more adventurous, technically you can walk from Himare to Gjipe. It is around 14km, and a mix of trails. Some parts are difficult, with steep climbs and overgrown trails (Jala to Gjipe), but the section from Himare to Jala is easy.

For more information on the best beaches in Albania, you can visit our article here (published soon).

Budget: Himara Hostel is one of the best budget options in town, close to the beach and with a central location. This is a popular hostel. Camping is another alternative ( see below).

Mid-Range: Himare has lots of low key apartments, some with sea views and they are mostly quite inexpensive. Sea View Breeze is one such option. For just a little more money, Argjile Rooms is a fancier option, with a swimming pool.

Luxury: A little out of town, but perched on a hill, is Wait and Sea, a hotel with an exclusive feel.

Camping in Himare

We camped on the coast of Albania and we would really recommend this option for budget travellers, or nature lovers.

The choice for camping in Himare is excellent. We stayed at two sites and would recommend both. The bonus of camping in Albania is that you don’t need to take any camping stuff, tents, sheets and mattresses are supplied.

1/ Pine Side – this is a MEGA campsite, a totally chilled place to stay for a few days. It is particularly special because it has a swimming spot right by the tents, and you can hear the sea from your bed. We loved the simplicity of waking up, swimming and chilling out. You can also walk to town and the main beach in around 5 minutes.

2/ Olive Camping – a different vibe to Pine Side, this is a family run campsite and much quieter. Set in a field surrounded by olive groves, it is a clean, carefully run and spacious campsite. It also happened to be next to one of the best places we ate in Himare, Taverna Velco.

We cooked in our campsite a few times, so didn’t eat out in Himare that much. But there are a few places we can recommend, Kafe Pasticcieria 28 is a delight for coffee and cake. Furre Himare is an excellent bakery, as everywhere in Albania, we enjoyed Burek (savoury pastry) for breakfast from here and a Baklava in the afternoon.

For dinner, the restaurants all along the seafront are comparable prices. Any tavernas and restaurants on the streets behind the sea front tend to be better food and lower prices. Our favourite taverna, Taverna Velco , was a Greek place a little out of the way, but worth it for the excellent service and food.

Albania itinerary day eleven, twelve and thirteen: Ksamil and surrounds

Which is better: saranda or ksamil.

If you decide to travel further South, one of the decisions you will have is whether to base yourself in Saranda or Ksamil.

We had read many blogs and seen a lot about Ksamil on social media and it’s fair to say that this was one of the destinations that we were most excited to visit. However, we had quite a mixed impression of Ksamil.

On one hand, Ksamil is very beautiful, especially the water. But, the beaches have been taken over by beach clubs and apart from a few slithers of sand and a few rocks, it is difficult to find any public space on the beach. Instead, you will have to pay for sun loungers and umbrellas, which can cost anything from 10 Euros to 60 Euros! This isn’t’ usually our travel style, and it felt a little decadent but we have to admit that we did enjoy a day at a beach club. However, there is no getting away from the fact that it Ksamil is at maximum capacity in the summer, and it feels that way. Restaurants are bars along the beach tend to be overpriced, 5 Euros is standard for a wine and up to 10 Euros for a cocktail.

Conversely, we weren’t that excited to visit Saranda. But we had a really great time. It is true that Saranda does not have the prettiest beaches, it is more of a port town. But it does have beaches, they are public and have plenty of space. We loved the restaurant scene in Saranda and the nightlife. On one day we stumbled upon a beach bar hosting a day rave and over the weekend we found ourselves partying on the promenade at a free music festival. We also found that the accommodation was some of the best value during our trip and food and drink was very affordable too.

For budget travellers, in all honesty we would recommend staying in Saranda and taking a day trip to Ksamil. This way, you could take advantage of the cheaper prices in Saranda and splurge on one day of sun lounger loveliness in Ksamil. For the purpose of this itinerary, we have assumed that most readers will want to visit Ksamil, but if you want to know more about Saranda, check out our post here.

This feels like a bit of a topic of debate, so we’ve written a full piece about Saranda or Ksamil, that you can find here.

Alternative to Saranda and Ksamil

💡You can have an enjoyable time on the beaches in Albania without coming as far South as Saranda and Ksamil. If you are looking for a more relaxing final week of your Albania trip, we would recommend staying in Himare for a full six nights rather than travelling further South. Himare is much less developed, it has a really nice laid back feel and is a touch less expensive than the South. Plus, the beaches around Himare are more authentic than those in Ksamil, which are man made with imported sand.

Travelling from Himare to Ksamil is relatively easy, but you do need to take two buses. Firstly, from Himare, head to the “bus station”, as marked on Google maps here . Not actually a bus station, just a stop. One side is for Tirana and the other in the direction of Saranda. There’s normally a man there assisting and confirming the time of the bus.

The bus from Himare to Saranda takes around 1 hour 30 minutes, depending on traffic. It’s a pretty crazy journey along the coastal roads, stunning scenery, but quite disruptive for anyone who suffers from motion sickness. Tickets cost 1000 LEK (really quite OTT pricing for Albania and definitely a bit of tourist tax included.) Bus times are a little unclear, we got one at 11:00 which seems to run every day. But, we recommend checking times the day before, if you’ve got a particular schedule to keep.

From Saranda, you can take a local bus to Ksamil. The bus leaves at a different stop to where you will be dropped off, but it’s not far at all. You can find the bus stop here (Google Maps.) In summer season, buses run every 30 minutes, on the hour and at half past. The cost is 150 LEK. In Ksamil, there are three bus stops (all marked on Google Maps), so just jump off at the one nearest to your accommodation.  

Beaches in Ksamil

There are two main beach areas in Ksamil. Both are created by imported sand, they are beautiful but have a bit of an artificial feel.

This area, plazhi i ksamilit is the party beach. Music is loud, loungers are crowded, jet skis zip about during the day. We even spotted a day time foam party when we were there. It’s fun and definitely where I would want to be if I was with a big group of friends. To escape the crowds, you can walk a little further up around here. Quieter beach bars await you.

The second area, around here , is much quieter and more suitable for families and couples trying to romance. The water is calm and clear and prices are cheaper too. We recommend Paradise Beach where you can hire loungers for 10 Euros, or Ohanas Beach club , where prices are the same.

Public beach Ksamil

Contrary to what we had read online before arriving in Ksamil, there is actually a small slice of public beach and it’s really lovely. You can find it here at Paradise Beach . If you don’t have an umbrella and you want shade, there are rocks nearby with shade in the afternoon.

What to do near Ksamil

Depending on your appetite for exploring, you may be happy to spend another day on the beach in Ksamil. If not, there are a few alternative options for your last day.

If you want to try a new beach, particularly a public one, head for Gjiri i Harets . This takes less than 10 minutes on the bus from Ksamil, plus a 10 minute walk. You’ll find a delightful and much quieter public beach to enjoy all day.

Another option is to head to Butrint National Archeological Park for something a little different to a beach day. We didn’t choose to visit, so cannot comment on whether it is worth the 1000 LEK (10 Euro) entrance fee, but it is a popular destination. You can read more here on the excellent The Adventurous World blog.

Budget: Villa Alfio , where we stayed in Ksamil, is one of the lesat expensive accommodation options in Ksamil. Around 10 minutes from the beach, this property is quiet, spacious and well run.

Mid-Range: Hotel Meta Ksamil, is possibly one of the closest properties to the beach. It is also inexpensive for a four star property.

Luxury: Valmar Hote l is a luxury property modern and well designed, complete with a swimming pool.

Restaurants and bars in Ksamil are dotted along the coast. Many are overpriced and have mixed reviews. The best that we found were Coco Beach , a low key spot for an early evening drink. Pisko Beach bar is an ideal place to enjoy the sunset with a cocktail, before eating at popular pizza restaurant Rolling Pizza next door.

Away from the beach, you’ll find the less expensive and better restaurants along the main road, which is sort of a “strip”. I am both ashamed, but also a little proud to say, that we ate Souvlaki at Beshiku taverna two days in a row and would recommend it.

Albania itinerary day fourteen: Travel home via Tirana Airport

The last day is sadly the day to pack up the bikini, throw away the leftover sunscreen and return home via Tirana airport.

There are no direct buses from Ksamil to Tirana. Instead, you must take a bus from Ksamil to Saranda and then travel from there onward to Tirana.

In peak season, the bus between Ksamil and Saranda leaves every 30 minutes. It is difficult to predict the exact time of departure, but head to bus stop three, two or one in Ksamil and the bus will be along soon enough. Current price at time of writing is 150 LEK.

You will get dropped off near to the main terminal. If you are in a hurry, we recommend trying to get off the Ksamil bus before your fellow passengers, it’s likely that many of them will be heading to Tirana and the Tirana bus can get quite full.

Bus Saranda to Tirana

Prices are 1700 LEK per person, a significant increase on recent years and frankly a bit of a rip off.

The bus should take around 4 and a half hours but often the driver will stop for an extended break, sometimes up to an hour. Unless you have a late flight, we do not recommend risking the bus on the same day as your flight. Instead, travel to Tirana on the previous evening.

If you plan to head straight to the airport from the bus station in Tirana, you will need to take a taxi. Otherwise, you can take a bus into Tirana city centre and then a later bus from outside the Palace of Culture to the airport. This bus runs once an hour costs 400 LEK and takes only 30 minutes. You can find more information on this excellent website Albania Tour Guide.

💡In 2024, Albania will be building a new airport on Vlora, this will make it easier to fly home from the coastal towns. Until then, if you don’t fancy the journey back to Tirana, you could take a ferry from Saranda back to Corfu and fly back from there. The ferry from Saranda to Corfu takes 30 minutes and costs around 25 Euros.

Albania itinerary: FAQs and tips

Logistics and getting around.

As we have shown, it is possible to get around Albania without a hire car. That said, it is certainly much more complicated and slower than if you had a hire car. The bottom line, is that it that public transport in Albania is the budget option and it does feel budget. There are no trains or fancy modes of transport, although taxis are an option in most areas.

If you decide to travel around Albania using public transport we suggest two things. Firstly, plan a little bit ahead so that you know when/ where you can get transport. Secondly, try to take the rough with the smooth – keep an open mind and expect the unexpected!

What are buses like in Albania?

Buses in Albania operate a fairly informal approach to timekeeping and collecting passengers. This is not really the type of place where one can book a seat on a bus and expect everything to work perfectly. Instead, you have to allow for delays and hiccups along the way.

Most buses are small “mini buses”, they tend to be owned by the driver and can be dated. Many don’t have aircon, or even windows that open. We have never sweated so much as we did on the drive from Berat to Vlora on a bus with literally no air! Quite often the driver will open the door to let air in (yes, even as you drive.) It’s also not uncommon to find a bus with passengers standing in the aisle or sitting in makeshift seats.

How to book buses in Albania

Short answer – you can’t really book buses in Albania. Buses operate on a much more informal system. For many, you can rock up to the bus station and hop onto a bus without booking in advance or much planning. For example, the Tirana to Berat bus or the Himare to Saranda bus. But, with others, longer buses particularly, you will need to buy a ticket and may need to wait a few hours to get onto a bus. The Saranda to Tirana bus service is a bit like this.

If you head up to the Albanian Alps, you can normally “book” a ticket through your guest house the night before. In reality, this means that your guesthouse will call a bus driver and tell him that you need to be collected the next day, but you won’t receive a formal ticket or anything like that.

How to get to Albania

The international airport in Albania is Tirana. There are regular flights to and from Tirana to most major European cities. If you’re travelling to Albania as part of a bigger European trip (why not!) then you can also travel overland into Albania. For example, buses from Montenegro into Albania are easy to arrange.

The other options for flights is to fly into Corfu, this is especially helpful if you plan to visit Saranda or Ksamil to the South of Albania, both are a short hop from Corfu. Finally, if heading to the North of Albania , you could also consider flights to Podgorica in neighboring Montenegro, which is a short hop from Shkoder.

Finally, you can also get a ferry from Italy to Albania – it’s actually a lot more fun that it sounds! Find out more here.

A few notes on the optimum Albanian itinerary

How much time to spend in the albanian alps.

Many people arrive in the Albanian Alps just to hike from Theth to Valbona or the other way round. Although this takes two to three days of travelling, it only includes one day of hiking, which seems a shame to me.

The Albanian Alps are fairly remote and difficult to get to. If you’re going to travel all that way, why not stay for a little longer? To use a British phrase “in for a penny, in for a pound.”

I think the best itinerary for Albanian Alps hiking would be a minimum of three days of hiking, but four days total travel time. You could also spend longer if you have time and are really into hiking and the outdoors.

How long to spend in Tirana

Tirana is a fairly small city, but it if you enjoy a city break then it is very much worthwhile visiting the capital of Albania during your vacation. Even as part of a summer itinerary, we would really advocate a stop off in the capital. In the summer, the city is alive with people enjoying the weather and spilling out of cafes and bars. Despite the heat you may feel elsewhere, Tirana doesn’t generally feel too hot either, especially at night.

We would suggest that you spend at least 24 hours in Tirana, more if you can. But, our two week itinerary allows for just a short 24 hour stop off. In this time, you can see the main sites and pick a nice spot for dinner and drinks to enjoy the city. Perhaps you’ll make plans to return again in future after a brief taste of what Tirana has to offer.

Beaches in Albania

Public and private beaches in albania.

Something to consider if you’re hitting up the Albanian riviera, is the distinction between a public and a private beach. This may be an unfamiliar concept to some, but Albania has some beaches which are completely privatized. This means that they are managed by either hotels or beach clubs and you must pay to hire sun loungers and umbrellas to enjoy the beach.

Many private beaches will have security at the gate preventing passers by from using the beach, unless they pay for the pleasure. Some are more relaxed and you may be able to get away with popping onto the beach for a quick dip (I did this a few times in Ksamil), but if you dare to put your towel down you will be moved on.

Public beaches, in contrast, are free to use for anyone. You can take towels and your own umbrellas onto public beaches, just find a space and relax. Most public beaches also have life guards too, which may make them safer for people travelling with children.

You can find out more about beaches in our blog post above (Himare, Saranda and Ksamil) or in our guide to the best beaches in Albania (published soon.)

What is the currency in Albania?

Officially, the currency in Albania is LEK. However, you can almost always use Euros as well. Guesthouses, hostels and hotels will normally provide a rate in Euros and will expect most people to pay with Euros, but will of course accept LEK too. Restaurants and bars are more likely to expect LEK and you’ll find menus in LEK. However, most will accept Euros too. Sometimes you may even pay in LEK and be given Euros change, or vice versa.

Can you use credit card in Albania?

Albania is very much still a cash based society. More so than any country we have travelled to for a long time. In our entire three weeks in Albania, we were able to use a card once or twice in restaurants and supermarkets. But, the vast majority of time we had to pay cash. Every guest house, hotel and hostel operated on a cash only basis. So, prepare in advance and make sure you take cash or get cash out on arrival.

Are there ATMs in Albania?

ATMs are easy to find in Albania but we did not manage to find one that did not charge an extortionate fee. We often paid between 5 Euros (500 LEK) and 8 Euros (800 LEK) just for the pleasure of withdrawing cash. The fee is calculated on a percentage basis too. Ouch.

Is Albania expensive?

It would be difficult to call Albania expensive, but we certainly found that prices were higher than we had anticipated. In part, this may be because it is August and peak season. In part, this was also down to the fact that the LEK is currently strong against the Euro. During our trip, the LEK rose to 110LEK to 1 Euro, a near 5% increase over three weeks.

As you may expect, prices in Alania are higher in popular tourist areas, such as Ksamil in comparison to Tirana and more low-key beach resorts, like Durres and Himare. By way of example, a glass of wine in Tirana would cost around 200 LEK (around 2 Euros), versus a typical glass in Ksamil at around 500 LEK (5 Euros). Honestly, we think that prices in some tourist areas may have been raised a little too high, artificially so. It’s possible that they will come down again, but this relies on tourists voting with their feet!

The cheapest areas we stayed in in Albania were Berat, Saranda, Himare and Tirana. Whereas, the more expensive were Theth, Valbona, Dhermi and Ksamil.

Typical costs in Albania

Here’s a breakdown of typical costs in Albania as of August 2023:

There are some unexpected costs in Albania to consider. For example, ATMs charge around 5 Euros per transaction for foreign cards. You also need to buy bottled water in Albania.

Culture and language

Culture in albania.

We clearly cannot profess to know a lot about Albanian culture after three weeks of travelling their, but there were a few things that we picked up on our trip:

• Topless sunbathing or nudity of any kind is not acceptable in Albania – it is not strictly illegal, but could be considered an indecent public act, which is illegal.
• Although topless bathing is considered indecent, the dress code in Albania is not strict. You can find our Albania packing list here (published soon.)
• Smoking in public places is technically banned – but in reality it is completely acceptable. Smoking is popular in Albania and ashtrays are found on most tables in cafes, bars and restaurants.
• Tipping is normal, we tended to add 10% to a restaurant bill.
• The majority of Albania’s are Muslim, bu most do not practice. That said, you will see Mosques and hear the call to prayer often. Most towns have a Mosque and a church.

Language in Albania

The language in Albania is Albanian, although there are some minorities who speak native languages like Greek. The vast majority of people speak some English, but Albanians frequently also speak Italian. In general, anyone working in the tourist industry will speak some English. The word for thank you in Albanian is “faleminderit” – it can be nice to learn this and use it during your trip.

Tech and Mobile coverage

Is there wifi readily available in albania.

Every guesthouse, hostel and hotel that we travelled to had WiFi. Whilst some connections were not great, we generally found most had high speed internet available for guests. Cafes, restaurants and bars tend to have WiFi available for customers and are wiling to give out the password readily.

Phone signal

If you are travelling to Albania and planning to drive or take public transport, we recommend having a working SIM card. We recommend Airalo SIM cards , although they are a little more expensive, we love using e-sims for ease.

Written by Emma

Wine Lover. Yogi. Hiker. Writer.

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BEST BEACHES AND BEACH TOWNS IN ALBANIA: A GUIDE TO THE MUST VISIT BEACH DESTINATIONS ON THE ALBANIAN RIVIERA. A visit to Albania is not complete without dipping your toes in the cool, clear waters of the Ionian Sea. The beaches and beach towns in Albania are plentiful, making the Albanian Riviera an increasingly popular…

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5 responses to “our two week albania itinerary: an epic road trip without a hire car”.

[…] Find out more about Gjipe Beach here. […]

[…] Do note, you don’t have to travel South to find excellent beaches on the Albanian riviera. You can find out more below on alternatives to visiting Saranda or Ksamil, and in our two week itinerary here. […]

[…] We recently traveled around Albania using public transport – you can find our two week itinerary, a road trip without a hire car here. […]

[…] city fans, Tirana is a must, although it may not seem it, this city has a lot to offer. Fly into there and enjoy 2 nights […]

[…] 2) Transport – I’ve heard mixed things about Albania’s transport. The main systems seem to be private buses and taxi vans as, rather than public buses. There is a train system but its renowned for being slow. You can find out more about Albania transport here on our guide to travelling around the country. […]

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Albania | along coastal roads, canyons & clear blue rivers

Imagine cruising along winding serpentines while you gaze at the loud blue sea, the windows down, and the breeze of the Ionian Sea dancing through your hair. A sun-salt smell runs up your nose. As you stretch out your hand you can feel the freedom! Soon, you’re driving next to turquoise rivers and can’t believe your eyes as you see the massive canyon right beside you. You’ll be surprised at what spectacular nature awaits you on your Albania itinerary.

Table of contents

Cities to visit on your Albania itinerary

Todo in tirana:.

• Join a free walking tour – The best way to learn about Albania’s and Tirana’s history and some fun facts
• Visit a bunker museum – Further out of the city there’s BUNK’ART 1, and BUNK’ART 2 right in Tirana’s center. Both are important museums that deliver insight into the dark past of communism and war in Albania (BUNK’ART 1 giving a broad overview of the history, and BUNK’ART 2 displaying a dark human point of view).
• Skanderbeg Square & the old Mosque – A historical place named after the Albanian national hero during Ottoman times. On the square, you can find the beautiful old Et’hem Bej Mosque, one of the few that had survived war times.
• Pazari i Ri – The large bazaar full of groceries in one of the oldest parts of Tirana.
• Tirana Castle – A medieval castle of which only a wall from the Ottoman era remains today, nowadays housing handicraft stores & cafes.
• Hoxha Pyramide – a lost place right in Tirana that used to be the most expensive building in Albania (named after the dictator) that’s currently under construction to become a museum.

Stay in Tirana:

• Hotel/Apartment: Rooftop Tirana   – Beautiful, modern apartments in the heart of Tirana with everything you need (especially parking which is important on an Albania itinerary by car).
• Hostel: Tirana Backpacker Hostel   – The perfect place to meet fellow travelers with a funky backyard and awesome breakfast.

Hotel recommendation for Tirana: Rooftop Tirana

These small but modern apartments in the heart of Tirana have everything you need (especially with parking, which can be tricky on a road trip in Albania’s capital). From here you can walk everywhere and enjoy the view over the city in the evening. In my opinion, also an unbeatable price! But be sure to contact the host before you arrive, because the apartments are hard to find.

Contrasts in Tirana

ToDo in Berat:

• Castle – Walk up to the castle and enjoy the view
• Stroll through the old town and cross the bridge – for a great view of the old town and its windows
• Join a free walking tour   – for great insights into the history and myths of this town
• Head to the beautiful vineyard Alpeta – for a wine tasting and a tour for only 15 Euros
• Osumi Canyon – A perfect day trip into Albania’s most stunning nature

Eat in Berat:

• Temi Albanian Food – Authentic, homemade food in an old alley up the hill with many vegetarian options and unbeatable prices
• Lili Homemade Food – A great place to try traditional food close to Berat’s center

Stay in Berat:

• Alpeta Agroturism   – A short drive from Berat you can stay in the vineyard’s lovely rooms in the middle of hills covered with olive trees
• Xho’s Forest – A small B&B with four rooms close to Berat’s historical center with a lush garden where you can have breakfast in the shade of the trees among many cute cats and extremely welcoming owners
• Berat Backpackers Hostel – It was the second hostel in Albania and has a beautiful outdoor area in a traditional building
• Maya Hostel – Another gem with a lovely garden right in the center of Berat

Hotel recommendation for Berat: Alpeta Agroturism

Just a short drive from Berat, you can stay in the beautiful rooms of this winery set amidst hills covered with olive trees. A super beautiful, authentic experience in the middle of the vineyards of Albania. Don’t miss to join a Wine Tasting there in the evening – when the welcoming father joins in, it can quickly turn into a Raki Tasting as well. We had a super nice evening there that felt like a vacation at friends’ homes.

If you’re short on time you can visit Berat on a day trip from Tirana.

Berat & its surrounding vineyards

Todo in gjirokaster.

• The castle – for a spectacular view across Gjirokaster
• Old Bazaar – Climb the steep alleys around the old Bazaar and stroll through the carpet and handcraft shops
• Ali Pasha bridge – an abandoned bridge in the countryside just a short hike (around 20 minutes) from town
• Day trip to Lengarica Canyon & Bënjë thermal baths – one of my favorite spots in Albania

Stay in Gjirokaster

• TeArra   – A bit up the hill, but led by a loving host Adi who loves to bake treats for her guests and prepares a large breakfast on her beautiful cozy terrace
• Grandpa’s Home   – A guesthouse that awaits you with the warmheartedness you’d expect from this name. With a beautiful garden and terrace and view of the castle.
• Stone City Hostel – a lovely hostel in a traditional house right in the center of Gjirokaster with a garden, roof terrace, and great breakfast

Hotel recommendation for Gjirokaster: TeArra

Located a bit further up the hill, this little guesthouse is run by the lovely hostess Adi, who loves to bake goodies for her guests and prepare a great breakfast on her cute, cozy terrace. The view from up here is really great and it’s easy to walk into the center. The picture shows her sweetly furnished terrace.

Gjirokaster & Ali Pasha Bridge

Places to see in the albanian riviera.

• Dhermi old town & the church (Manastiri i Shën Marisë) – with amazing sea view
• Vuno – A cute, small hillside village
• Butrint National Park – Ruins of an ancient city (with an old Roman theatre, old church, gates, a castle, and many more) in the southernmost part of Albania
• Heads-up: In my opinion, avoid Saranda and Ksamil which are the most touristy places in Albania with one hotel bunker next to the other

Hotel recommendation for Dhermi: Roots

What a beautiful hotel in the sweet old town of Dhermi! The location is truly unique. And the rooms are stylish and modern yet authentic with a stunning sea view from their balcony. What else could you ask for? In my eyes, the dream accommodation on the Albanian Riviera!

Dhermi & ruins of Butrint

• Gjipe Beach – Maybe one of the best beaches in Albania, but still kind of hidden gem in Albania (maybe not so hidden, as there are also sunbeds down there) but an extremely beautiful bay that you can reach after around 30 minutes walk from the parking
• Gjiri i Akuariumit – Just a 20-minute walk from Livadi beach (where you can park) you reach this small bay which is a natural paradise
• Borsh Beach – A super long beach (over 7 km!) that will never seem crowded, as there’s enough place to find a private spot for you.
• Grama Bay – Far away from any other beaches, it’s best to take a boat to Grama bay (e.g. from Himare). It’s also a very historic place where sailors used to escape storms and left inscriptions on the walls.

A bay near Ksamil & Borsh Beach

Stay in the Albanian Riviera

• Roots (in Dhermi) – Located in Dhermi’s cute old town, this small hotel offers beautiful rooms with a stunning view from their balconies
• Guesthouses Luiza (in Borsh) – An authentic guesthouse with lemon trees in their garden and walking distance to the beach

Hotel recommendation at the sea in Borsh: Guesthouses Luiza

An authentic, simple guesthouse, where you can relax among lemon trees in the garden, enjoy the sea view from the balcony and even walk to one of the longest beaches in Albania in just a few minutes. Here you don’t need much more to get to know and love a slightly less touristy part of Albania.

Eat in the Albanian Riviera

• Green Life Market – The first all-vegan restaurant in Albania, run by warm-hearted owners who basically cook in their home. Great atmosphere and even better food that is organic and as local as possible. Highly recommend visiting (probably the only place worth visiting in Saranda)!

Vegan food at Greenlife Market & Albanian Fruit stalls

Canyons, rivers, and lakes

Osum canyon (kanion osumi), lengarica canyon (kanioni i lengarices).

Lengarica Canyon

Bënjë Thermal Baths

Syri i Kaltër (Blue Eye)

Blue Eye & its clear river

Albanian Alps (Prokletije)

Theth and valbona valley, todo in theth:.

• Calm down – The area around the cute village Theth with its iconic church, free-roaming horses and cows and scenic mountain landscape is truly a place to recharge
• Waterfall hike – You can take a bus that brings you close to the waterfall. Then it’s just a short hike
• Blood Rage Tower – It used to be a safehouse for those who had to hide and can be visited nowadays
• Blue Eye – Yes, there’s also a well with the same name as the spring in southern Albania
• Hike to Valbona or even Montenegro – If you’re a fan of hiking further, there are several routes that cross through Valbona and even Montenegro. But you should be an experienced hiker and willing to walk around 20 km a day for these tours.

Stay in Theth National Park:

You can find many authentic, family-run guesthouses in traditional stone houses in the village Theth. This is also the perfect starting point for many hikes and day trips.

• Guesthouse Gjin Thana – A small, family-run guesthouse with mountain views and a lush garden
• Guesthouse Marashi  – Perfectly located right by the river (what a view to wake up in the morning!) and run by warm-hearted hosts

Hotel recommendation in Theth: Guesthouse Marashi

With its unbeatable location directly on the river, you have a stunning view as soon as you wake up in the morning! In addition, you do not have to go far to the waterfall. The beautiful wooden guesthouse is also run by super warm hosts who will make your stay in Theth very special. A place you will always want to come back to!

Theth National Park (pictures by my friend Jule )

Route along the Black Drin

Albania itineraries, how many days do you need for an albania road trip, more on slow travel, how to get to albania.

The ferry from Bari to Durres

How to get around Albania?

Ferry to Durres & driving in Albania

Driving around Albania

Suggested Albania itineraries

2 weeks albania itinerary.

• drive Tirana ⇨ Berat (1.5h / 100km)
• drive Berat ⇨ Gjirokaster (2.5h / 180km)
• drive Gjirokaster ⇨ Blue Eye ⇨ Riviera (1.5 – 2.5h / 90 – 115km)
• drive Riviera ⇨ Kruje ⇨ Koman Lake (5.5h / 320 km), add a night in Kruje if you’d like to avoid the long drive
• Koman Lake & Albanian Alps (3-4 days)

2 weeks Albania itinerary (click for interactive map)

10 days Albania itinerary

3 weeks albania itinerary.

Llogara Pass & Riviera

Good to know

When is the best time to visit albania, where to sleep on your albania road trip.

Accommodation in Albania

How expensive is traveling in Albania?

Is traveling in albania safe.

What about Internet? Can you use EU roaming in Albania?

Food in albania.

• Stuffed vegetables (e.g. eggplant, peppers, or pumpkin) – often stuffed with rice, mixed vegetables and sometimes cheese on top
• Ferges – Like a vegetable casserole with cheese
• Pispili – Spinach cake
• Byrek – Like a pie with a soft pastry
• Qifqi – Rice balls (A special from Gjirokaster)
• Sarma – Stuffed wine leaves
• Qofte – Fried vegetable balls
• Petulla – The typical Albanian “pancakes”, but they’re fried, more like donuts
• Raki – There’s no way of leaving Albania without having some Raki (locals often even drink a glass with their coffee in the morning)

Byrek | Stuffed peppers | Albanian “pancakes”

The Albanian language

• Yes – “Po”
• No – “yo”
• Hello – “Pershendetje”
• Thank you – “Faleminderit”
• Good night – “Naten e mire”
• Cheers – “Gezuar”

Sustainable travel in Albania

Why does albania have such a huge trash problem.

Albania’s nature & animals drowning in trash

What can we do as travelers?

• Avoid any plastic packaging (say no to any plastic bags but bring your own tote bag instead)
• Buy fresh fruit or freshly prepared snacks instead of packed snacks like chips or cookies
• Bring your own cosmetics instead of using the shampoo samples in any accommodation
• Say no to plastic straws, plastic cups etc.
• Bring a water filter bottle , so you don’t have to buy any plastic bottles

More about reducing waste during your trip

Lost places & bunkers.

Bunkers & lost places in Albania

Bunkers everywhere in Albania

Albania – a wrap-up

Albania in three words: Byrek | canyons | trash (yes, sadly that’s one of the things that left a mark)

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11 comments.

You’re quite right, Albania is definitely a beautiful country worth spending time in and exploring. A road trip sounds ideal. It is a pity about the litter but hopefully that will be addressed soon.

Yeah, in my opinion a roadtrip is the perfect way to explore Albania, and especially to get off the beaten path. However, the country needs to manage their litter problem soon. Otherwise this will result in worse problems. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Alma!

Hello! Thank you for making such a wonderful travel blog. I really appreciate this on point detailed guide. I wanna share the website https://www.holidayhare.com/country/albania I use to check info about countries, cities, weather, visa req. etc before I travel hope this helps :)

Thanks for your great feedback. I’m happy to hear that you like my content about an Albania road trip!

Hello. Thanks for the post. I want to share a website i came across, for cheaper holiday rentals, directly from local owners: https://www.rentfromlocals.al

thanks for the great article, keep up the good work

Thanks so much for your lovely comment!

Could you recommend any guided tours or travel tips for exploring the canyons and clear blue rivers in Albania?

You can find my tour recommendations within the article ;)

Thank very much for very helpful tips

I’m happy to hear that my tips for Albania were helpful to you.

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The Best Albanian Road Trip – Don’t Miss Albania’s Most Undiscovered Scenic Drive

• Post category: Destinations / Travel Tips

If you’re looking to go on the best Albanian road trip, you need to check out this relatively undiscovered scenic drive in the north.

Many claim that driving along the Albanian Riviera in the south is the most beautiful Albania road trip and I used to agree!

Seeing things like Butrint national park, the Blue Eye, and Llogara national park on the Albanian Riviera are amazing. But these are always recommended by those who haven’t spent much time in Albania.

I’ve been living in Albania for two years and after going on this incredible north Albanian road trip, I think my mind is forever changed.

If you’re looking for inspiration for your road trip in Albania, you should seriously consider this underrated place!

Disclaimer: This site contains affiliate links that will cost you nothing extra but offer me a little commission for any purchases made. These help me continue to offer helpful tips – I appreciate the support.

The Best Undiscovered Albanian Road Trip

Okay, enough is enough – I’ll let you in on the secret. The best place for an Albanian road trip is in the region known as Malesia e Madhe which is roughly translated to Great Highlands in English.

This area has some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen, plus there is a unique cultural aspect.

Because of its natural geographical barriers, Malesia e Madhe is where many Albanians fled, to escape the Ottoman invasion and rule.

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This helped preserve traditional Albanian culture for future generations and allowed people to continue freely practicing their religion. If you decide to drive the SH20 road on your Albanian road trip, you will see what I mean.

It is a very remote part of Albania, and without that road, it would be difficult to access, which makes sense why the Ottomans were kept out.

Hopefully knowing this will give you more perspective about the struggles Albanians have faced. I found it hard to imagine what life was like back then for those brave people who resisted.

5 Tips For Your Albanian Road Trip

Since there isn’t much information about this road trip in Albania, I figured that there are important things to know before setting off.

Since Malesia e Madhe is pretty out of the way, it is essential to be prepared before going. Here are some good tips to know for having the best Albanian road trip!

1. Things To Do Along SH20

Since this area of Albania is remote, don’t expect man-made tourist attractions. There aren’t any museums to visit – the main draw to driving on this specific Albanian road trip is for natural beauty and outdoor activities . 

There are plenty of beautiful viewpoints to stop at and take photos. This also provides a nice breather from driving as well. Since the roads can be a bit crazy, it’s good to stop and rest for a few minutes. 

The road goes along Lumi i Cemi (Cemi River) so if it is a hot day, it would be super refreshing to stop. Depending on rainfall and weather, the river often has this gorgeous blue/green color.

Like most rivers in the Albanian mountains, it will be very cold so it might not be enjoyable for everyone to swim in.

I grew up with cold mountain streams so it’s not as difficult for me but I understand others wouldn’t be used to it. Test it out first by just submerging your feet.

Have a picnic

It’s a bit sparse on SH20 until you to the small village of Tamare. There are some places to stop and eat, most connected to guesthouses for visitors.

Alternatively, you can bring your food to have a picnic wherever you find a good spot to enjoy.

Just remember to take any trash or containers back with you, to not contribute further to the trash pollution issue that’s prevalent in all of Albania.

The scenery in Malesia e Madhe is breathtaking and extremely wild. It’s amazing to explore, but imperative that you do so safely.

Many people use local guides that know the terrain and paths. If you do decide to go by yourself, make sure someone knows where you are, especially if you’re alone.

I’d recommend using a hiking all like AllTrails for guidance, and to have a backup power source as well. Also, weather can be extreme and change quickly, check with locals on weather conditions before going.

Though I’m not trying to scare you, you need to know that people die in these mountains for not taking them (and the weather) seriously.

Just recently French and Belgian tourists died in the nearby area of Valbona. Unfortunately, the Albanian rescue services often have to risk their own lives to help too.

So please be careful, your actions affect more than just yourself.

There are some gorgeous waterfalls to check out on your Albanian road trip in Malesia e Madhe. Many won’t be marked on google maps, so you’ll probably happen upon some as you explore.

There are a few marked though:

• Ujëvara e Selcës
• Ujevara e Lepushës  
• Ujëvara e Gjanve (near Vermosh)
• Ujevara e Bashkimit (near Vermosh)

Ujëvara means waterfall, so look for signs that have that word.

It also depends on when you’re visiting. If you’re there during the height of summer or directly after (July, August, September), the waterfalls will be pretty dry. Spring is the best time for them.

2. How Long Will It Take

From the city center of Shkoder to the end of SH20 in the mountain village of Vermosh, is said to be a two-hour drive of about 96km .

If you’re coming from Podgorica, it is listed as the same time, but 87km, plus there is a border crossing which will add time.

Coming from the city center of Tirana, it is 3 hours 40 mins and 200km , though the road from Tirana to Shkoder is known to have a lot of traffic, especially in the summer, so it might be longer.

These are just the estimates from google maps. In reality, even without traffic and border crossings, this drive will take you longer as it’s going over some steep mountains.

You can expect many hairpin turns from the mountain passes, as well as winding roads even when you’re driving in the valley along the Cemi River.

Plus if you factor in stopping at viewpoints, swimming, hiking, a picnic, etc., it will be much longer.

It is possible to do this as a day trip from Shkoder , as long as you don’t mind lots of driving.

I wouldn’t recommend doing it as a day trip from Tirana or Podgorica though with traffic and the border crossings could take a while (they don’t always).

Instead of trying to smush it all into one day, I’d recommend you stay overnight to take your time and enjoy Malesia e Madhe.

3. Where To Stay In Malesia e Madhe

Northern Albania is known for its traditions and hospitality, and you can see that with the number of guesthouses you’ll find.

When visiting the mountains, it’s the main type of accommodation. Of course, there are some fancy places, like this luxury resort in Boge . It’s located on the road to Theth and it’s perfect if you want to treat yourself or have a romantic weekend.

Though visiting Malesia e Madhe isn’t promoted a lot on international travel mediums, it doesn’t mean that it isn’t popular.

Albanians love to visit this area, especially ones that have emigrated away but come back every year for a summer holiday.

If you’re visiting from the middle of July to early September, you will need to arrange accommodation before. Here are some different options for you – I’ve arranged them by village.

Many guesthouses might only have 1-2 rooms so I’ve listed a few for each place so you can check on availability.

Tamare is a place that has more of a small village vibe, with many guesthouses grouped close together. 

• Guesthouse Rireyiana , Sofra Kelmendit , and Te Gusti Hotel

Selce as a village is more spread out, so it feels a little more remote. It also doesn’t have as many options for accommodation, but it’s great if you’re looking for peace and quiet.

• Stay in a triangle-shaped cabin or the Turi-Selce guesthouse

Lepushe is the 2nd to last village you reach on SH20 before getting to the border with Montenegro. It’s known as the pearl of the Albanian Alps .

Though many people rush to Theth Village since it’s been promoted heavily, Lepushe is a really beautiful destination that is a great alternative.

• Guesthouse Alpini (they also have fancier private villas here that are perfect for a romantic weekend)
• Bujtina Tradicionale or Hotel Kelmendi – though it’s located off on a smaller road that might not be as accessible, talk with the host before booking

Vermosh is the last village you can reach on SH20 before the border with Montenegro. It’s another super area with lots of hiking and waterfalls to see. 

• Peraj Guesthouse or Hotel Vermoshi TDC
• Columbus Villas (probably the most luxurious place to stay in this region, great for a romantic getaway)

4. Where To Rent A Car

If you’re planning to start this road trip from Shkoder, it’s important to know how to get a rental car . Check out my full guide on day trips from Shkoder !

I have gone around and talked with many of the places that rent cars in Shkoder city center. You’ll recognize them because they have signs that say makina me qera which means car for rent .

What most quote you will be 25 euro per day for manual and 35 euro per day for automatic (it will be much higher in July and August).

This is without insurance though. When you ask about insurance, prices that they tell you (or make up on the spot) will vary.

One place that seemed more honest told me that none of these small places can offer you insurance, they just say there is insurance but there really isn’t any.

The only success I seemed to find was at GoRent Albania – Shkoder location . Since they are a branch of a larger company, it seems like they offer legitimate insurance.

The only thing not covered is the bottom of the car, which they tell you upfront about. You can also use a credit card to do the deposit (or 300 euro in cash) and you can pay by card as well.

Unfortunately, since it is a small branch, they might not have any cars available in the height of summer. You can contact them in advance though to reserve.

Since they are the only company in Shkoder I feel comfortable recommending, if they don’t have cars, I’d say to just rent from Tirana airport .

There are bigger companies that will have plenty of availability and legitimate insurance coverage.

5. More Important Things To Know For Your Albania Road Trip

Doing an Albanian road trip in Malesia e Madhe will undoubtedly be beautiful and fun, but there are important things to know.

Earlier in the hiking section I touched on how remote the area is, and how important safety is while hiking. Beyond that, there is still a need to be cautious.

Fuel Availability 

Since it is very remote, there are no gas (petrol) stations after you turn off the larger E762 road onto SH20.

You need to make sure to have a full tank of gas, especially if you plan on going all the way to Vermosh or if you are staying in the area for a few days.

Check how much your tank holds, as some can be quite small. You might need to take some reserve fuel.

Food Availability

The same warning goes for food. Guest houses usually provide food along with the lodgings, especially breakfast.

For some, meals might not be included so you will have to pay extra, or purchase food there, but don’t expect a big supply since it is remote.

To be safe, I’d suggest bringing along some snacks at least. If you’re strict on being a vegetarian or vegan, I’d say to bring food supplies as mountain food usually includes meat and dairy products (even indirectly like broth for soup).

Cash / ATMs

Albania is largely a cash society, even in bigger cities. You can expect to pay everything in cash in this region. If there aren’t gas stations, that should tell you how remote it is, so don’t expect card machines.

You should be able to pay in both Euro and Albanian Lek, but it will be easier to purchase small items with LEK like coffee and food.

If you use a large 50 euro bill to pay for coffee, you might not get the best exchange rate from the waiter. Paying for larger things like your accommodation is good to pay in euro (if you prefer).

Either way, make sure to visit an ATM in Shkoder or Tirana to withdraw enough money for fuel, food, and accommodation. Use the yellow and blue ATMs (Credins Bank) for free cash withdrawals in Albania.

Easier Albanian Road Trip Alternatives

Though I’d highly recommend doing an Albanian road trip, especially this specific one I’m suggesting, I know it might not suit everyone.

If you don’t feel comfortable driving or maybe you don’t want to go through the hassle of arranging a rental car, here are some alternative tours.

Hopefully, these can still give you a nice taste of what this region holds.

• From Tirana: 3-Day Trip Koman Lake, Valbona, and Theth Hiking Tour
• From Tirana: Valbona Park, Koman Lake and Prizren city, Kosovo
• From Shkodër: Day Trip to Bogë and Theth National Park
• From Shkoder: 2-Day Trip to Theth with Accommodation

Best Albanian Road Trip – Final Thoughts

I hope all of these tips for your Albanian road trip have helped inspire you. There’s so much to see in northern Albania , many of which aren’t talked about on regular travel blogs.

If you’re looking to have a super unique Albania road trip, then driving along SH20 in Malesia e Madhe will be great! 

Need more inspiration? Check out these awesome 10 day Albania intineraries !

Is Living In Shkoder Albania Right For You? Pros & Cons Of Living In Northern Albania

Being A Digital Nomad In Albania – Is It Worth it? My Pros And Cons

How To Spend 10 Days In Albania – 2 Epic Itineraries For An Awesome Trip

Longer trips in cheaper destinations — and why albania is getting so popular.

Elizabeth Casolo , Skift

May 14th, 2024 at 9:00 AM EDT

Travelers are still booking flights despite inflation. Where some of those flights are headed may be different, though.

Elizabeth Casolo

Italy and Greece may come to mind when planning a summer holiday in Europe . But travelers are gravitating toward other destinations that offer similar amenities at lower prices. A 2024 travel trends report from Mastercard showed increased air traffic and longer stays in some cheaper destinations.

“People are trying to be very thoughtful about how they can continue to enjoy travel and enjoy these experiences within their budget,” said Mastercard Chief Economist Michelle Meyer.

Albania is one standout budget-friendly destination. The country has had a 141% increase in daily flight traffic since 2019. For this summer, the Albanian capital of Tirana — which is close to some beach hotels — is witnessing an increase in its share of flight bookings from pre-pandemic levels. The report calls it one of this year’s trending summer destinations.

“There has been more of potentially a focus on tourism in terms of increasing the number of flights that are moving in, trying to facilitate more tourism, which is, of course, an effort to support greater economic growth,” said Meyer on Albania’s popularity.

An extra day for a traveler’s stay

Another change: Travelers are staying about one day longer on trips than they did in 2019. This trend is most prominent in destinations that have not experienced a steep increase in hotel prices.

For example, in markets with the smallest price change, travelers added 2.1 days. In markets with the biggest increase, travelers added less than one day.

The Middle East and Africa, followed by Europe, are the regions with the greatest trip extensions from 2019.

Meyer thinks the post-pandemic spike in “bleisure” travel — fusing business and leisure — may be contributing to this boost in longer stays. The hybrid work model that evolved from the pandemic leads to more flexibility.

“To travel for work, you can add on a leisure trip. If you travel for leisure, you can add in one day working from anywhere or be able to integrate your work into your leisure activity,” Meyer said.

What else to know

• A record-breaking total of around 15.9 million Americans traveled abroad in the first quarter of 2024.
• Japan had the highest increase in share of tourist spending from last year. The U.S. and Canadian currencies’ strength against the Japanese yen led Japan to becoming a trending destination.
• The surge in events-based travel, like with Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour , remains. Munich — a host of the upcoming UEFA European Championship — tops the list of Mastercard’s most in-demand summer destinations, with Tokyo and Tirana close behind.
• The share of passenger arrivals by sea has gone up in the Bahamas since late 1999. Originally at roughly 60%, that percentage was over 80% for Bahamas arrivals in February. Cruise transactions overall are up from 2019.
• Egypt’s currency devaluation and tourism investment could eventually position it to be a major player for those looking to travel to the Middle East and North Africa in coming years, Meyer said. Egypt’s 2027 eclipse will be another event to look out for.

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Tags: albania , bahamas , coronavirus recovery , cruise , euro 2024 , europe , germany , japan , Mastercard , middle east , munich , north africa , tokyo , Travel Trends , uefa

Photo credit: Street in Durrës, Albania. Árpád Czapp / Unsplash

5 quick tips for driving in Albania. The perfect 2-week Albania road trip: Detailed day-by-day itinerary. Day 0: Arrive in Tirana. Day 1: Tirana to Berat. Day 2: Full day in Berat. Day 3: Berat to the Albanian Riviera. Day 4: Full day in Dhermi. Day 5: Dhermi to Upper Qeparo. Day 6: Upper Qeparo to Gjirokaster.

Below are our favorite places to stay for each destination on this 2-week Albania itinerary: Berat: Hotel Mangalemi, Tradita e Beratit Hotel. Gjirokaster: SS Kekezi, Argjiro Traditional, Hotel Argjiro. Ksamil: Ionian Hotel, Summer Point Hotel, Hotel Meta. Himarë: Scala Bungalows, Filoxenia Holiday, Guest House Solive.

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· Albania is made for a road trip, and the driving experience and scenery along the way formed a big part of our enjoyment. For reference, the country is 8 times smaller than the UK and 10 times smaller than Italy, so driving distances are manageable, with the longest travel days in our route involving no more than 4 hours. ...

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Best Albanian Road Trip - Final Thoughts. I hope all of these tips for your Albanian road trip have helped inspire you. There's so much to see in northern Albania, many of which aren't talked about on regular travel blogs. If you're looking to have a super unique Albania road trip, then driving along SH20 in Malesia e Madhe will be great!

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35th annual farmlands flat tour.