overnight train trips victoria

Slow Rail Journeys Book online or call us on 1800 707 677

Experience Victoria by Private Train

Experience the romance of rail travel reliving the elegance of a bygone era. relax in restored sleeping and lounge carriages as we travel from melbourne to some of victoria’s most spectacular destinations..

"Best trip  I've  been on in years.  My expectations were exceeded the second I was greeted on the platform at the Seven-0-Seven check-in"

Upcoming Itineraries

6-11 June: The Vinelander returns to Mildura on an epic Slow Rail Journey exploring Outback Victoria

19-21 July: The Riverlander to Deniliquin and the Moama Winter Lights Festival

26-28 July: The Riverlander to Deniliquin and the Moama Winter Lights Festival

15-20 August: Take the path less travelled on the Sunraysia, exploring Mildura, Murrayville, the Murray-Sunset and spectacular Outback Victoria

6-8 September: The Grainlander Steam to Sea Lake and the Spectacular Mallee Silo Art Trail

11-13 October: The Grainlander to Manangatang exploring either the northern Mallee Silo Art Trail or attending the 2024 Manangatang Cup

6-8 December: The Winelander exploring the best food, wine and railways of Victoria's Goldfields

"What an amazingly organised trip to an often unvisited but exciting part of Victoria. I loved the opportunity to see the Silo Art trail without the five-hour drive, multiple pack-ups, and other travel pain"

The Grainlander

Tour the Mallee Silo Art Trail in Style. See awe-inspiring silo art,  the  natural wonders of this spectacular region, attend its best events  and  more.

The Vinelander

Explore the best of Mildura Outback Victoria and the Sunraysia onboard the Vinelaner.

The Riverlander

Experience the best of the Murray and Goldfields from viewing spectacular silo art to touring the farm gates of Victoria's food bowl and more.

The Winelander

Enjoy a weekend of food, wine and railways visiting the best wineries, acclaimed restaurants. some of Victoria's 

Single Day Slow Rail Journeys

Short on time but still want to enjoy the best of Regional Victoria and the trademark Slow Rail Journeys service - a single day Slow Rail Journey could be a perfect choice!

Slow Rail Journeys - Supporting Regional Victoria

Slow Rail Journeys has a deliberate policy of supporting and giving back to regional communities, wherever it goes, which is why you will be dining at great local pubs on this journey, not eating pre-packaged meals carried from Melbourne, and why you will be attending local community-run events such as movie nights, agricultural shows and food and wine festivals, using local coach company's to tour and much more. On a Slow Rail Journey you will experience Regional Victoria at its best. 

"A trip to remember. Fully organised, reasonably priced and friendly. Food and company was amazing - a great weekend"

Onboard our Sleeper Train

Sleeping Cabins

Relax in your private onboard oasis aboard a restored Southern Aurora or Overland sleeping carriage as we tour to the most interesting destinations in Victoria.

Lounge and Club Cars

The social heart of the train is the perfect place to enjoy a drink from the bar, socialise with your fellow travellers or simply relax with a book and watch the scenery go by.

Dining aboard a train in a comfortable dining car is one of the great travel experiences. Enjoy locally  sourced  meals in the dining car as Victoria passes by the windows.

"Excellent trip - well organised and provided all that was promised. The food onboard the train was great and the hospitality from Quambatook was fantastic. The evening meal was excellent and efficiently served to quite a large group. Historic trains are popular and it was great to…"

Off-Train Experiences

Gastronomic Experiences

All Slow Rail Journeys feature a bespoke series of gastronomic experiences that highlight the best food in the regions we visit.

Off-Train Touring Experiences

All Slow Rail Journeys feature a number of fully hosted bespoke off-train experiences designed to ensure you fully experience our destination.

"Fantastic trip as all ways with the Seven-o-Seven Operations volunteers. We were well looked after, nothing was too much trouble for the team"

About Seven-O-Seven Operations, Inc

Seven-0-Seven Operations is an independent, volunteer-staffed, not-for-profit heritage rail operator based at Melbourne's historic Newport Rail Yards. The flagship asset of Seven-0-Seven Operations is the steam locomotive R707, "the City of Melbourne", which has been in its custodianship since 1980.   Today, 707 Operations offers Day Tours and multi-day Slow Rail Journeys (featuring sleeping carriages and other facilities) to destinations across Regional Victoria. All trains utilise Seven-0-Seven Operations' volunteer restored and maintained fleet of heritage locomotives and carriages. 

"For a volunteer organisation, this was a very professionally run tour. Everything worked like clockwork"

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7 incredible overnight sleeper train journeys to take in Australia

All aboard! These lush overnight sleeper trains offer a unique way to soak up Australia’s diverse landscape

Whether it’s the Orient Express, Hogwarts Express or even Thomas the Tank Engine, trains are the backdrop of some of our favourite fictional stories – but they make for an even more impressive travel setting IRL.

If exploring Australia is on your bucket list (let’s face it, flights to Europe are exxy right now), you can’t miss the unique experience of an overnight sleeper train. Traversing every state and territory, this form of slow travel is suitable for both the young and young at heart. Plus, trains put less pressure on our environment and can allow you to hop off at your leisure (remember it’s the journey, not the destination). 

From winding through the Whitsundays and exploring the rugged red outback to getting from Melbourne to Sydney in style, we’ve rounded up the best train journeys in Australia.

RECOMMENDED: These four Aussie train trips were ranked among the best in the entire world .

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Overnight train journeys to take in Australia

Easily the most iconic and recognisable overnight train on this list, The Ghan is all about luxury. Named after the first Afghan cameleers that arrived in Australia in the 19th century, The Ghan has been hosting unforgettable (and extremely Instagrammable) train journeys for more than 90 years. 

The Ghan Expedition, a four-day all-inclusive trip running from Adelaide to Darwin, is the train’s signature line and counts itself among the world’s greatest rail journeys . All up, it costs around $3,705, but there are shorter trips to Alice Springs starting from around $1,500 if you’re restricted on budget.

On board, passengers can unwind with a glass of chilled Aussie wine, while tucking into crocodile sausages and taking in the vast landscapes of Australia’s rugged red outback. If you can pull yourself away from the top-quality service, upgrades including scenic helicopter flights and camel rides can be added to your trip, while other experiences including gorge cruises and cycling tours are included in your fare.

Vintage Rail Journeys

Travel in 1960s style aboard a restored vintage ‘Aurora Australis’ sleeping train on one of four regional NSW tours departing from Sydney’s Central Station. Passengers can watch the spectacular scenery roll by the window in their private air-conditioned compartment, fitted with a personal vanity to freshen up before visiting the Lounge Cars for a chef-prepared meal. 

Vintage Rail Journeys’ original and most popular, four-night Golden West Rail Tour travels only twice a year and is a real regional treat, chugging along the Great Dividing Range and through the vineyards of the Hunter Valley and Orange. The hosts also run boutique tours to the Riverina region, known as Australia’s ‘food bowl’, and the beautiful North Coast hinterlands, with two bonus annual tours to Parkes Elvis Festival in January and Repco Bathurst 1,000 in October. Prices for Vintage Rail Journeys four-day tours will set you back $4,495, but you won’t find a holiday quite like this anywhere else in Oz.

Indian Pacific

If exploring Australia’s coastline is more your speed, the Indian Pacific will deliver you to the doorstep of cities with the best beaches in town. The greatest drawcard here is that the train journey is all-inclusive, meaning that once you’ve put your suitcases away, you can sink straight into holiday mode.

The famous transcontinental crossing whisks travellers between Perth, Adelaide and Sydney, with fabled journeys from one to four nights. If you’ve got some cash to splash, opt for the platinum experience with stylish and spacious cabins, full-sized ensuites, panoramic window views, access to an exclusive social lounge, private transfers, world-class food and even a nightcap at turndown. Prices start at $1,500 for a two-night route, or from $2,890 for the signature Perth to Sydney four-night trip.

Great Southern

Despite only launching in 2019, this newer addition to Australia’s sleeper train scene has quickly become a must-do – and for good reason. Cruising between Brisbane and Adelaide, the Great Southern train line is filled with breathtaking views of Australia’s southeast (think sun-kissed beaches, rugged coastlines and buzzing cities).

The only challenge you'll face on the journey is picking which off-train experiences to partake in, with all options included in your fare. You could dine under the stars at a local feast in Coffs Harbour, visit cellar doors in Australia’s oldest wine region in the Hunter Valley, and stretch your legs with a leisurely walk to Venus Baths in the Grampians National Park. The all-inclusive rail journey operates throughout the sunny months and will set you back from $2,200 or $3,200, depending on whether you pick the two or three-night route.

Spirit of Queensland

Whether you’re chasing the sparkling sands of the Sunshine Coast or travelling to the twinkling lights of Brisbane city, the Spirit of Queensland is a convenient and sustainable way to adventure between Queensland’s best destinations. You can jump onboard regular trips from Brisbane to Cairns each week, with stopovers at some of the state’s dreamiest destinations, including the Whitsundays, Townsville and the Sunshine Coast . 

Four routes are fitted out with state-of-the-art RailBeds – plush seats that transform into single beds (think business class on a plane). You can kick back in comfort to watch the latest blockbusters through a personalised entertainment device, while you order chef-prepped meals and drinks straight to your seat. Each seat also comes with bed linen and an amenities pack stocked with local, ethical goods. Fares for the RailBeds start from $ 389.25 , but if you’re on a budget, there are economy carriages with roomy seats (sans the beds) available.

Spirit of the Outback

Think of this train line as the Spirit of Queensland’s richer aunt. Run by the same parent company, the Spirit of the Outback journeys into the heart of Queensland's rugged countryside. Services run between Brisbane and Longreach twice a week, and you can travel the full line ​or stop for a few days in the many classic Aussie towns along the way. 

Dine aboard the all-inclusive Tuckerbox restaurant, decked out with white tablecloths and serving some of Queensland’s best produce, before retiring to your own private cabin – there are single and twin options available – with bed linen, amenities, a washbasin, mirror and wardrobe. Fares start at $ 427 , but if you want to save some cash, the economy carriages have roomy chairs and a dedicated area for meals, snacks and beverages (plus, you’ll get the same stellar views).

NSW TrainLink

It might not be as glamorous, but if you don’t have cash to splash, NSW TrainLink’s sleeper class is a budget-friendly way to get around Australia. Available on long-distance overnight services, the twin sleeper cabins include bed linen, towels and toiletries, so you can arrive at your destination feeling fresh. Plus, you’ll even get complimentary breakfast, media screens and Wi-Fi.

Choose from overnight train trips between Melbourne, Canberra, Sydney, Brisbane and Newcastle, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars – and while it may not be a particularly quick journey, it’s a perfect antidote to the exorbitant prices to fly across the country right now.

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The Riverina Rail Tour now includes a ride on the Zig Zag Railway! Call Chris or Tammy on  1300 421422

G'Day & Welcome Aboard

Step back in time with us and travel in style aboard our restored 1960s ‘aurora australis’ sleeping train..

Celebrate Australia’s diverse history and rich culture with visits to regional towns, gardens and attractions. Travel on rail lines which don’t have scheduled passenger services, making this a real adventure.

🙋‍♀️ Request more information

Our original and most popular rail tour – we enjoy the dramatic sandstone cliffs of the great dividing range at the beginning and end of our journey, the vineyards of the Hunter Valley and Orange, and we have the rare opportunity to travel on freight lines only across the Liverpool Plains from Werris Creek on the way to Orange. A real treat is the spectacular scenery in the Capertee Valley on the way to Rylstone

The second adventure that we designed is our Riverina Rail Tour heading south from Sydney into the heart of Australia’s ‘food bowl’. You’ll receive a warm welcome from the communities of the Riverina, and learn a lot about the produce that they grow, some of their challenges and innovations. You will also travel on some rail lines which don’t have scheduled passenger services, making this a real adventure.

The newest of our tours, the North Coast Rail Tour is fast becoming one of our favourites. Every day there is a different view of the NSW coastline. Our guests have told us that they saw the North Coast in a way they never have before. You’ll discover the beautiful Hastings River at Port Macquarie, the breathtaking hinterland rainforest and eclectic community of the Northern Rivers region, the crystal clear creeks and uncrowded surf beaches of the Macleay Valley Coast, and the history and heritage of Maitland & Morpeth.

Our 1960’s ex-Southern Aurora train is the most convenient and stylish way to enjoy Australia’s greatest touring car race. Board the train at Central Station, Sydney on Friday lunchtime. Sit back and relax as we travel to Bathurst. Enjoy the convenience of staying on board the train on Friday, Saturday and Sunday Nights. The circuit is only an 8 minute Bus ride away, with Buses departing every 30 minutes.

Experience a four-day rock ‘n’ rail extravaganza, cruising through the scenic heartland of Central West NSW to the iconic Parkes Elvis Festival.

We are delighted to once again partner with Railway Adventures to bring you the Elvis Special tour 9-12 January 2025. Starting and finishing at Sydney Central, join us on board our private Aurora Australis sleeping train for the Elvis Special adventure in regional NSW.

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The Ghan, Port Augusta, South Australia © Journey Beyond

Australia's best train journeys

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Romance awaits aboard Australia’s lavish long-distance sleeper trains.

By Amy Fraser and Krysia Bonkowski

Four days, three states, two oceans and one train. The Indian Pacific isn’t just any train journey, it’s an epic escape from day-to-day life, an adventure of a lifetime and one of the best ways to experience the true beauty of Australia. Picture the majestic Blue Mountains in New South Wales, the rolling hills and winding streams of Western Australia , the bubble-gum pink lakes of South Australia and the iconic Nullarbor Plain ; you’ll want to keep your eyes peeled and your camera at the ready. Choose to hop on at any leg of the journey, or sit back for an epic four days from one ocean to another along the world’s longest stretch of straight railway.

Over three to four days, the Great Southern sweeps through one of the most diverse corners of the nation – venturing from the lush folds of South Australia’s Adelaide Hills, to the rugged Grampians mountain range in Victoria, past the lazuline shores of the New South Wales north coast and on to Brisbane. Four Australian states in a handful of days; it’s the ultimate way to see the country's ever-changing landscapes, all the while indulging in the world-class luxuries. This all-inclusive journey runs only once a year, across summer. The best part? The itinerary changes with the direction, giving you the perfect excuse to hop back on and do it all anew.

No distractions, no complications – just you and the monumental Australian outback. Traversing almost 3,000km (1,864mi) across some of the most hard-to-reach and jaw-dropping pockets of Australia, the Ghan journey is truly awe-inspiring. Snaking your way through the heart of the outback, you’ll see a new side to Australia – and perhaps yourself. From stylish interiors to indulgent experiences; the Ghan isn't one of the world’s most celebrated train journeys just for the route – it's the whole experience. To top it off, you'll have the opportunity to create your own adventure, choosing between a handful of routes and journeys.

26 hours and 1,300-odd km (808mi) – that’s all it takes to see the soul of western Queensland . As the Spirit of the Outback sleeper train chugs inland from Brisbane, lush greenery gives way to a land tinted gold and bronze by the sun. Between the Australiana-themed dining cars serving Queensland produce and the cattle stations stretching to meet the endless horizon, it’s an experience unique to this corner of the world. A place steeped in lore and legend – the inspiration for bush poet Banjo Paterson’s ballad “Waltzing Matilda” – the Queensland outback still echoes the bushrangers, prospectors, and hardy drovers that once roamed here.

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10 excellent day trips from Melbourne by train

Horrified by rising petrol prices but keen to get out of the city? Here are some fun day trips from Melbourne by train. Sit back, relax and watch the world slip by as you travel onward for a new adventure.

While nothing beats an Australian road trip, the price of petrol is definitely a hot contender.

Fortunately, here in Victoria, there are plenty of options for day trips from Melbourne by train.

To sweeten the deal, V/Line (our country link trains) tickets have been massively reduced.

This makes train travel in Victoria not only the most eco-friendly option for getting around – it’s currently the cheapest.

Read on to discover the best train journeys from Melbourne and start planning your own adventure.

Day trips from Melbourne by train

This guide to Melbourne’s best day trips by train contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase, I may make small commission, at no extra cost to you.

What you need to know about catching trains in Victoria

To access train travel across Victoria you will need a myki travel card .

You can purchase these directly from:

• myki machines at selected stations and stops
• some shops, including 7-Elevens
• online (your myki may take up to two weeks to arrive).

See a full list of locations where you can buy and top up a mykI .

How much does a myki cost, you might ask? Annoyingly, the physical card does have a price:

• Full-fare: $6
• Concession/child/senior: $3.

These cards also expire, unless you keep them regularly topped up with ‘myki money’. This is simply money you add to your card via cash or debit/credit card payment.

Note: myki cards are valid for train travel in Victoria only . Public transport is managed by state governments in Australia, so each separate state and territory has their own cards, fares and system.

Now, let’s explore some of the best day trips from Melbourne without a car.

Ballarat is an excellent choice for a day trip from Melbourne by train.

For starters, it’s a quick journey. You can hop on the V/Line train from Southern Cross or Footscray and be stepping off onto the platform of Ballarat station in around 1.5 hours later.

The station is located centrally, so you’re a stone’s throw from many of the regional city’s best sites, such as the Art Gallery and the gorgeous gold rush-era architecture along its main streets.

Sovereign Hill, another main attraction is a little bit of a walk, along with the Botanic Gardens. Buy a ticket for Sovereign Hill in advance .

If the gardens are indeed your destination, I recommend getting off one stop later at Wendouree.

Belly rumbling? I recommend heading to Armstrong Street. There are plenty of food options there. The Spanish tapas at Meigas are excellent. If you fancy a wee stroll, Clothesline Cafe put on a great spread too.

For the perfect day trip, check out this extensive list of things to do in Ballarat .

Bendigo is another great place in Victoria to visit by train.

It’s around a two hour trip, departing from Southern Cross or Footscray.

There are plenty of things to do in Bendigo once you get there. Drop into another great regional art gallery or ride the talking tram .

Learn about the town’s gold rush history at Golden Dragon Museum and Central Deborah Gold Mine .

For food, you’re spoiled for choice. Bendigo was named a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy in 2019 and the eating options are certainly next level. Grab delicious croissants at Harvest . Settle in for lunch at Hoo-gah , or Old Green Bean . If you’re vego or vegan, you’ll love Adam & Eve , the city’s only vegan cafe.

How to spend a week in Melbourne

The best places to visit in Victoria

Amazing day hikes near Melbourne

Dandenong Ranges (via Belgrave)

The Dandenongs as they’re known, are an excellent spot for a day trip from the city, particularly by train.

There are some excellent walks to do, gardens to explore and places to eat, such as the Pig & Whistle Tavern , Cognoscenti and Olinda Tea House .

To get to the Dandenong Ranges by train, catch a metro train from Flinders Street Station to Belgrave.

Popular attraction Puffing Billy departs from Belgrave Station, so if that’s what you want to do, you’re right where you need to be. Buy a ticket in advance for Puffing Billy .

From Belgrave, hop on bus 694 to travel further into the ranges, to townships like Olinda and Sassafras.

Just make sure you don’t catch a train to the suburb Dandenong, which confusingly has the same name as the mountain range while being a good half hour drive away from them.

Discover more things to do in the Dandenong Ranges .

Warburton (via Lilydale)

This is a day trip from Melbourne by train and bus which takes a bit of time, but can be very rewarding.

Warburton is a township, a village really on the edge of Melbourne. It’s close to some beautiful nature trails, a waterfall and home to an interesting range of boutique stores.

It’s also a great spot to visit for autumn leaf chasing in Victoria .

To get there, catch a train from Flinders to Lilydale. Hop on bus 683 to travel onward to Warburton.

Alternatively, bring your bike and ride from Lilydale to the village, via the Lilydale to Warburton rail trail.

Once you’re there, grab a cup of joe at Silva Coffee Roasters , poke around town, then hike to La La Falls.

Let’s get back to the basics now. Train journeys from Melbourne, where you travel from A to B and you’re there.

Geelong is a very easy train ride out from Southern Cross, taking around an hour on the V/Line.

There’s a ton of stuff to do in this beachside city. Indeed, if the weather is fine, go to Eastern Beach, admiring the quirky bollards along the way.

It’s a great destination for kids, with a dedicated pool, fun fair activities and a hop on, hop off train.

Adults can head into town to grab Asian-fusion dumplings at Bahjong or southern American cuisine at Pistol Pete’s .

For a cheeky tipple, check out Geelong Cellar Door .

For more, check out the local art gallery , or perhaps pay a spooky visit to Geelong Gaol , now a museum.

You can have a great day out in Werribee, especially with the kids.

To get to Werribee, simply jump on a metro train. Most are express to the area.

From there, you can catch buses out to most destinations. Werribee Park Mansion feels very ‘two for the price of one’, as it is right next to the State Rose Garden .

Werribee Zoo is a day trip in itself. Catch bus 439 straight there from the train station. Spend the day, or perhaps even stay overnight .

Buy a zoo ticket in advance .

Things to do in the Yarra Valley

Small towns in Victoria worth visiting

An in-depth guide to the Great Ocean Road

Daylesford (via Woodend)

While I’d recommend Daylesford as a weekend getaway , it is possible to travel there by train and bus, for an ambitious day trip.

To get to Daylesford, travel along the V/Line to the town of Woodend.

From there, you can board a bus to Daylesford. The journey takes around two hours.

Daylesford’s town centre has plenty of interesting stores to poke around in, containing boutiques, books and antiques. Manteau Noir and Eclectic Notions are both delightful to have a rummage through for the latter.

If the weather is nice, head out to Lake Daylesford. For something very special, have a meal at renowned restaurant Lake House .

In town, Larder does a decent coffee and I like Cliffy’s Emporium for lunch.

Wombat Hill House is also rather lovely. And Daylesford Cider Co does great, well, cider and woodfire pizzas.

Discover more things to do in Daylesford and surrounds .

Day trips from Melbourne by train: Kyneton

Kyneton is another very easy day trip from Melbourne by train. Jump on the V/Line at Southern Cross or Footscray and you’ll be there in just over an hour.

Once there, there are plenty of things to get up to .

If you like the finer culinary things in life, stroll on to Piper Street. Feast at Fook Shing , Home Grown on Piper , or drop into Miss M’s Lounge for Spanish tapas.

Head to Animus Distillery for a gin masterclass or grab a vino from Musk Lane .

Castlemaine

Castlemaine is a very underrated destination in Victoria, which is also accessible via train journey from Melbourne.

Hop on the V/Line at Southern Cross and travel straight to the town. It’s around 1.5 hours.

Once there, ramble through secondhand wares at The Mill . Order pastries and pies from Johnny Baker .

For something special, head to Wild Food and Wine or Bar Midland for a menu focused on local produce.

If independent cinemas are your jam, catch a flick at the Theatre Royal . It’s also a bar, and live music venue.

French Island

French Island is a largely forgotten destination in Victoria.

A national park, it’s a sanctuary for both koalas and birdlife. The island is also completely off-grid, has no local council and is home to less than 150 people.

Once there, you can go say hi to the koalas (many of them hang about in the trees up the road from the General Store), or go for a cycle or a hike.

I do thoroughly recommend taking a set of two wheels with you to the island. Alternatively, you can rent a bike for the day from the General Store.

To get to French Island, catch a train from Melbourne’s CBD to Frankston. Once there, swap onto the train to Stony Point. The train journey takes around 1 hour 45 minutes.

The island itself is only accessible by ferry, which leaves from Stony Point and travels across to Tankerton jetty, a journey of around 15 minutes.

It costs around $30 per person (plus if you’re a Senior Card holder, you can travel on the weekend or on public holidays for free). This can be booked in advance or on the day.

This same ferry heads on to Cowes on Phillip Island.

You can take your bike on both the train and then, the ferry (for a few dollars more).

Discover more things to do on French Island .

What should you pack for a day trip from Melbourne by train?

Here’s what I recommend packing for a train journey from Melbourne:

• reusable drink bottle filled with water
• snacks for the train (none are sold onboard)
• sunscreen and hat
• something to read
• a light jumper
• spare emergency cash (most places accept card but just in case, it’s always smart to have a spare $20 in cash on your person).

See a full list of Australian travel essentials .

In conclusion: is it easy to take a day trip from Melbourne by train?

With petrol prices being quite frankly, through the roof, taking a train for a day trip from Melbourne is a much more economical alternative for travel.

And with so much of the state being accessible by public transport, well – why wouldn’t you?

What are your favourite destinations by train in Victoria?

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Overnight Train From Sydney To Melbourne: What It’s Like On Board The XPT

The XPT train from Sydney to Melbourne.

Australia is a land of epic train journeys that crisscross the nation from coast-to-coast, one of the great ones is the overnight train from Sydney to Melbourne. In this extract from his new book, Traveller contributor Tim Richards details his (pre-lockdowns) journey from these two great cities.

The Grand Concourse at Sydney’s Central Station was everything I wanted for the start of a long train journey. Opened in 1906, the concourse is a lofty space with a curved roof, walls of brick and stone, and stained-glass windows. It’s a sweeping statement of confidence in railways, down to the bust and plaque honouring nineteenth-century engineer John Whitton as ‘the father of the New South Wales railways.’

Central Station was a terminal built for grand journeys, for desperate missions, for tearful goodbyes by loved ones waving lace hankies as they ran alongside departing trains. The only thing missing was a suitably portentous place to eat, though a sign featuring photos of old station dining rooms promised ‘A new dining experience, coming soon!’

Sydney’s Central Station. 1855

Whatever emerged from that redevelopment would be a vast improvement on the refreshment facilities at the original Sydney Terminal, built to serve the colony’s first railway line which opened to Parramatta in 1855. That station, between where Central and Redfern stations stand today, was an embarrassingly humble iron structure within which one Henry Dudley leased a room from which to provide refreshments in 1856.

Unfortunately, the authorities had forbidden the operation of stoves within the building, so Dudley thought laterally and established a refreshment tent nearby. Dudley had evidently been cursed by the catering gods, as his tent was repeatedly set alight by sparks from passing steam locomotives and was occasionally toppled by high winds.

In 1857 he was given permission to erect a simple iron building at the Chippendale entrance to the station, which must have seemed a great improvement on the tent. This new structure was promptly damaged by a storm.

When the line was extended to Campbelltown, the first extension to be overseen by our boy John Whitton, Dudley hoped the increase in passenger traffic would finally lead to healthy profits. On the opening of the line, however, the fares increased considerably, causing travellers to cut back on tea and pies.

The land around his building was then leased to timber merchants, who surrounded it with a fence, leaving it poorly ventilated. Dudley accepted the decrees of fate and abandoned his doomed business in 1859, later seeking compensation from parliament. The first attempt to refresh the rail travellers of Sydney had not ended well.

Sydney Central

Above the concourse hung a clock with Roman numerals, next to a large departure board with screens divided into suburban, intercity, and regional services. On the final screen was listed ‘20.42 Melbourne’.

On the platform I found a large plaque erected in 1970, when Sydney and Perth were joined for the first time by a single standard-gauge train. How glorious the rail future must have looked back then, when cross-country airfares were still dauntingly expensive.

Across the platforms, I could see each had a hanging sign saying ‘CENTRAL’ in large block letters. They stretched out like an optical illusion, one behind the other. It was a still, humid evening on Platform 1. Anticipation hung in the air, as if fate was about to deliver something special.

Albury-Wodonga’s impressive train station.

What it delivered was Mr Singh.

I met him the moment I stepped into our cabin, in which he had drawn the top berth. ‘I travel down to Melbourne every three months,’ said my travel mate. ‘I live right here next to Central Station, so it’s easier than flying.’

Mr Singh was originally from Punjab in India and worked as a migration agent. I had guessed he was a regular, as the attendant who’d taken our breakfast orders had recognised him.

The complimentary breakfast supplied to sleeper passengers was fairly basic, but you got to choose your spreads. I went for Vegemite.

‘Ah, you are Australian,’ said the attendant, who I guessed was also from India.

The two-berth compartment, technically known as a twinette, was the same as the one I’d sat in from Brisbane, but the night-time experience was different. Mr Singh and I each had a pile of plastic-wrapped items stacked on the middle seat: a snack pack, a toiletries bag, and a towel.

Later the berths would be folded down, and the shower within the adjacent bathroom could be used. Unlike my Brisbane-to-Sydney jaunt, there would be little scenery to enjoy on this trip. It was already dark when we left Central, and the only brightly lit places that could be discerned through the reflective windows were the suburban stations we passed: Redfern, Sydenham, Wolli Creek.

Occasionally we’d pass a two-deck Sydney train running along a parallel track. They weren’t very full this late on a weekday. I could see people reclining, reading, thumbing their phones. I wondered idly who they were, where they were heading, what they’d be doing when they got there, what they’d be having for dinner, when our trains diverged, and they passed out of my life.

I opened the plastic snack pack. Inside it was the following: popcorn, biscuits, water, a mint, crackers, and chutney.

It was odd eating a sachet of chutney with crackers but without cheese, and there were only two crackers, so some chutney was left over. Perhaps cheese had been the victim of a budget cutback

By mutual agreement, Mr Singh and I asked the attendant to put the beds down at about 9.30 pm, after we’d dutifully munched our way through the snack packs.

It was difficult to sleep, though Mr Singh seemed to be managing it. He was very quiet, not a snorer. On this train I was lying perpendicular to the train’s direction of motion, which meant a lot of rocking – and not like that of a cradle, more a washing machine.

As a result, I tossed and turned, trying to find the ideal position and never quite managing it. I felt like I hadn’t slept at all, then I looked at my phone at one point and it was 4 am. We were about to arrive at Albury.

I dressed and wandered down the train to the cafe, through the first-class seated area. In the darkened carriage the sleeping passengers looked as if they’d been the victims of a terrible plague, their bodies arranged at grotesque angles.

The train stopped and, coming across an open door, I stuck my head out to view the long colonnaded platform at Albury Station. For a regional station, Albury is rather magnificent – a colonial-era edifice with a clock tower, veranda’s decorated with iron lace and waiting rooms with arched windows and high ceilings. Its platform is equally spectacular. At 455 metres long, when it opened in 1883 it was the longest in Australia. Covered by a long colonnade of Grecian pillars supporting a metal roof, it’s still an attractive place to board or alight.

The reason for this splendid platform was, of course, the gauge problem. From 1881, when the New South Wales railway line first reached Albury, passengers had to transfer between Albury and Victorian Wodonga via stagecoach. Then in 1883, Victoria’s broad-gauge Northeast line was extended across the Murray River to meet New South Wales’ standard-gauge Main Southern line at Albury.

It’s hard to imagine the excitement that at the time was stirred by the opening of a railway line now that trains are a daily convenience and aircraft a useful nuisance. But the meeting of these lines was a very big deal indeed. The official record of the event, snappily titled The Union of the Railway Systems of New South Wales and Victoria, sets the scene:

On the day of opening, the border towns of Albury and Wodonga were astir from an early hour. The special trains from Sydney were loaded with passengers, and the traffic between Albury Station and the various hostelries, to which the travellers drove immediately on their arrival, gave to the streets an appearance of activity and excitement which they never before assumed. Lines of flags and banners were stretched across the principal streets … The railway station, an exceedingly handsome structure, was decorated most lavishly with bunting; festoons of evergreens were hung along the platform front, and the supporting pillars of the veranda. Poles bearing huge flags of different nations were erected … In short, advantage was taken of every point where decorations of any kind could be displayed.

A public holiday had been declared in Albury for the opening, which was officiated over by the colony’s governor, Lord Loftus. Bands played, an address of welcome was read out by earnest local councillors to the governor, and in the mid-afternoon a train from Melbourne crossed the Murray River to deliver his Victorian counterpart, the Marquess of Normanby. Quite the gathering of toffs.

As for literary royalty, the great American author Mark Twain had passed through here by rail. In his 1897 travelogue Following the Equator, he marvelled at the lunacy that had created such an inconvenience as a break of gauge between Australia’s two greatest cities:

Now comes a singular thing: the oddest thing, the strangest thing, the most baffling and unaccountable marvel that Australasia can show. At the frontier between New South Wales and Victoria our multitude of passengers were routed out of their snug beds by lantern-light in the morning in the biting-cold of a high altitude to change cars on a road that has no break in it from Sydney to Melbourne! Think of the paralysis of intellect that gave that idea birth; imagine the boulder it emerged from on some petrified legislator’s shoulders.

Beyond the platform was a short section of disused broad-gauge track which had been left in place, as an exhibit of rail gauge folly. The train quietly pulled out, and a few minutes later we were crossing the Murray River, invisible beneath us in the dark. I was back in Victoria. Returning to my berth, I napped. The next time I checked the time it was nearly 6 am, and still pitch-black outside. I followed my ‘hit the showers first’ policy and dressed, wondering idly when I could ask Mr Singh to reinstate the lounge in place of the berths.

A knock on the door heralded the first instalment of breakfast. The XPT catering department continued its mix of old school and plain odd, by producing a plastic bowl of cornflakes with peel-off lid, a small carton of milk and a spoon whose bowl was the size of a thumbnail. Together they constituted an IQ test, to be passed by not spilling anything on oneself.

The second instalment was a box containing two slices of white toast, Vegemite, butter, and a cup of hot water with supplied coffee bag. Attempting to consume any of this while lying in my berth was tricky. The cornflakes alone were a minefield. After I’d eaten as much as I could manage, I realised I could restore the lounge seat without disturbing Mr Singh, by levering up my berth alone. He was happily seated cross-legged on his berth, the old hand, eating his toast like a pro.

The sun finally rose to reveal a cloudy day. A train operated by V/Line, the state railway company, played hopscotch with us on a parallel track as we approached Melbourne’s outskirts. It was filthy and packed with long-distance commuters heading to the city. At Roxburgh Park, one of Melbourne’s outer suburbs, a huddle of people was waiting for a local train to work. One of the traveller’s greatest pleasures is watching other people go to their nine-to-five jobs while you’re not.

We slid through the industrial backblocks of Melbourne, across the Maribyrnong River, past towering stacks of shipping containers. I had my first sighting of a tram as it crossed the La Trobe Street bridge.

As we passed the glass-and-steel architectural fancies that were the new office buildings of Docklands, I asked Mr Singh why he really took the train rather than flew. Was he afraid of flying?

‘No. If I fly, I wouldn’t get to my Melbourne office before noon. This way I’m there when it opens. I like to be on time.’

That was more than could be said of this train, which was running half an hour late.

‘Perhaps I’ll get to the office at nine-thirty today, rather than nine,’ allowed Mr Singh. He had a certain degree of flexibility after all.

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