outer hebrides driving tour

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Outer Hebrides Road Trip: Your 1 Week Itinerary for the Western Isles

If you want to experience the wilds of Scotland, a road trip through the Outer Hebrides is a great introduction. Here’s my itinerary to help you plan your Western Isles adventure.

Go on a road trip to the Outer Hebrides and you’ll avoid the crowds of the almighty North Coast 500, and get to see some of the most open and free parts of Scotland. 

I went to the Outer Hebrides with my friend and fellow travel blogger, Helen in Wonderlust. Sounds incredibly stupid now, but I hadn’t quite realised I’d planned a road trip to the Outer Hebrides, as I was going off Instagram pictures I’d seen. Genuinely thought I was going on a road trip to the Western Isles –  who knew it was the same thing, hey? 

Anyway, confession over, let me guide you through our Outer Hebrides road trip, so you can do the same (one day!). 

Click to see the Outer Hebrides Road Trip Route Map

This was our basic route for the Outer Hebrides road trip. I planned it two weeks before – the day before I went to Norfolk for four days – so, it was a skeleton of an idea, which we planned to flesh out while we were there. 

I’d originally planned more destinations, including Ullapool, but when it came to booking the ferries I realised it was just too much.

Just a warning, booking the ferries for our Outer Hebrides road trip was more complicated than I thought. Knowing the names of the ferry ports, planning the timings and connections, and then, knowing if they had space was harder than I planned. This probably took me about three hours, but with this guide you’ll be able to do it in way less.

More tips on actually booking the Outer Hebrides road trip below. 

So, let’s get onto the Western Isles road trip itinerary, shall we?

Day 1: Driving through Loch Lomond

After driving up from Portsmouth, where I live and about 275 miles away, the day before, we actually set off from Preston. Managed to swing by Tebay Services to drop £50 on snacks, as if we could afford it.

And, after a great drive through the Lake District , we were in Scotland . Kinda daunting how Google Maps told me it was just straight for 174 miles on the motorway, but at least it kept the instructions easy to follow.

Loch Lomond things to do 

I needed a break, and so we pulled up to  Loch Lomond Shores , at the south of Loch Lomond. It’s a small shopping centre with a Sea Life Centre and a park, and a watersports hire place. We had a look round, went to the toilet, and left – weren’t really feeling the vibe. 

Instead we drove north, to the village of Luss. It’s known as one of the cutest villages around Loch Lomond, and so we went for lunch at The Village Rest . A popular spot where I enjoyed an amazing jacket potato and veggie curry – delicious. I’d 100% recommend. 

We went for a wander around Luss. Ended up buying a Scottish face mask (it was September 2020), seeing a stunning rainbow over the pier, and admiring the cute houses, the village is known for. There was also a great gift shop, and a lovely little coffee shop too. Definitely worth a stop off. 

We’d toyed with the idea of visiting Loch Katrine around the lock , and going on a Loch Katrine cruise , but the weather was threatening to change and we decided we were too tired. It was in the wrong direction. If you can fit it in though, and it’s not 2020, then take a look. Pack your women’s parka coat to keep you warm if you want to do this – there are some great ones at Trespass !

We stopped at Ardui instead. Took the time for a local beer and a quick go with the drone, and carried on. The scenery was great. 

It would’ve been great to explore the Loch more, but with the weather and driving distances, we decided to crack on and get settled for the night. If you did want to do some more  driving round Loch Lomond, there are some great scenic drives listed there. 

Loch Lomond accommodation

I managed to freak myself out by obsessively reading weather reports, and so ended up booking a ‘mountain hut’ at the Pine Trees Holiday Park at the last minute. Loved it. Seriously. Wasn’t even annoyed that the weather was fine and we would’ve been ok to camp, like I’d planned.

For £20 each a night we got this cool hut, with an intense heater and just a few steps away from a shared bathroom, with great showers. The owner was great here and it backed onto the Wild Hebridean Way, which I totally plan to do one day.

I had a little walk on it here…

I had actually paid for the camping round Loch Lomond already, as you can’t wild camp in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, like you can in the rest of Scotland. We paid £3. The weather scared me though, and staying at Pine Trees meant we didn’t have to drive too far the next day to Oban either. 

Here’s a MAP of the spots around Loch Lomond so you can decide if you want to do it or not.

Day 2: Oban to Castlebay (Barra)

I was so happy that I only had an hour’s drive to Oban from our accommodation, rather than the two on the original plan.

We stopped off for breakfast at The Real Food Cafe , just a minute’s drive from Pine Trees. Super clean, tasty breakfast baps, and a dedication to supporting toilets in Malawi, means this is a no brainer. Go!

We were warm, fed, and ready to get to the Outer Hebrides. 

When you’re driving round the lochs in this area you’ll see lots of places to park up on the road, and passing places too – take advantage! We stopped off at Glen Lothy to find the reflection of Ben Cruachan on the water was particularly special that day. 

Arriving in Oban

We wanted to have time to look round Oban, so we didn’t stop too long. As soon as I arrived in Oban I wished we had longer , but then after three hours, I think that was about right. Unless you’re going in season and not in 2020 – then you could join a boat tour, or visit the distillery. 

On our visit in September 2020 we looked round the souvenir shops, admired the restaurants and mooched about the Scottish produce shops. We walked to the North Pier, and then the other pier, and went and took the car to the ferry in good time. 

My hot tip for Oban would be the fish market at the ferry terminal. NOT the one with the tartan on but right next to the terminal building. You’ll find it as there’s a huge queue outside. Great price seafood, and super popular. This would be a good place to pick up some Scotland souvenirs to remember your trip by.

The ferry from Oban to Castlebay (which is Barra’s main port) leaves at 13:40 and gets in at 18:25. Don’t be late as it cost almost £100 for a car and two passengers!

Check in closes 45 minutes before it’s scheduled leaving time. 

Oh, and it’s not the North Ferry Terminal. It’s much bigger than that and over the other side. If there aren’t road signs, you’re in the wrong place. Also, you can go about an hour early and park up there to avoid paying around the city.

Oban to Barra by ferry

The ferry from Oban to Barra takes 5 hours. My mum had warned me before that it was sickening and rocky, and I shrugged it off. Heading into hour three, and it turned out she was right, as usual .

I was so seasick I couldn’t move.

I’d gone to get a drink downstairs, and Helen was upstairs and I seriously couldn’t muster my legs to go back and tell her where I was. It was rough. 

As soon as we arrived I was fine.

Thankfully.

But just to warn you.

Castlebay, Barra

We arrived onto Barra, to wind and rain, and so went to put up our tent at the Wavecrest Campsite. The guy there gave us the bright idea of camping on the hill, to be more private. We didn’t realise then quite what a mistake of an idea that was. 

Tent up by the beach, all proud of ourselves, off we trotted into Castlebay for some food.

We went to Cafe Kisimul, an Indian/ Italian restaurant that comes very highly rated online. I went for a chicken jalfrezi – which was even more delicious considering it was about 8pm, and the rollercoaster of a day we had. We ended up staying till closing, getting as much electricity into our phones, and hot food in our bellies as possible. 

Accommodation in Barra

As I’ve said, it was September 2020, COVID times (although this was a break where we were allowed to travel!). All Outer Hebrides hotels I could find online were a two-night minimum, and they said different households weren’t allowed to mix, which is why we ended up camping.

There is a hostel you could try in normal times, called Dunard Hostel, which was in a great location. 

Wavecrest Campsite was really basic. Three toilets and two showers in an industrial tanker thing, and that was about it. No Wi-Fi. It was by the beach though, and not far from the town, and the two members of staff were lovely. 

We barely got a wink of sleep that night though, thanks to the howling gales, our flapping tent, and the worry we were about to be blown into the sea. 

All good fun though, right?!

READ MORE: Fun Games for Road Trips to Keep You Busy

Day 3: Vatersay and exploring Barra

Vatersay is a little island off Barra, with a population of just 90 people . It makes for a lovely slow drive to explore the island and see the amazing Outer Hebrides beaches surrounding .

Make Traigh a Bhaigh Beach your first port of call. It’s stunning.

The weather really made it for us, and the fact it was one of the few places in the whole Outer Hebrides road trip that I managed to get my drone up – so enjoy these pictures. 

There’s a cafe here that does operate, although not when we were there. Too early. You can park near here though and there are toilets when it’s open.

We just chilled on the beach, had a brew and admired the view. Would’ve loved a swim but also didn’t want to as we were camping. Spend as long as you can here!

We tried to drive round the island but you can’t actually go much further than this. Instead of driving on, you should walk over the dunes to Traigh Shiar Beach on the west coast. Gutted I missed it!

From here head off the island, and make sure you pull into Uidh Beach for pics. Again, more stunning coastline and views.

Back on Barra 

Any other time, you can enjoy Barra Surf Adventures Barra surf adventures – sea kayaking . There wasn’t any availability thanks to it being 2020, but just wanted to add it in here for future travels.

For brunch we headed to the Hebridean Toffee Cafe, where unfortunately they didn’t have any toffee ready for us to sample. Instead, we had two bacon sandwiches each. Needed it. 

If you do want toffee you can pop into the Buth Barraigh Community Shop. Here you’ll find all kinds of local treats and goodies. 

The big thing to do in Barra is to watch the plane come in on the only beach runway in the WORLD. We magically timed it just right and made it for the 12:15 arrival – felt like everyone in Barra was there waiting!

It was pretty impressive coming in. I’m sure the passengers felt like superstars with all of us waiting. 

Ferry from Barra to Eriskay

Then we headed to the ferry terminal – a different one to the one we arrived in on, at the north of the island. 

Both pretty shattered we ended up having a nap at the terminal, in the car. Was so nice with the sun streaming in.

There was a cafe there, with cakes and coffees, so a scone for an afternoon snack it was. 

Barra to Eriskay – departs 15:40 / arrives 16:20 £17 for a car and two passengers

We took the ferry over, and sat in the car missing all the supposedly beautiful views. Blummin COVID meant we weren’t allowed to get out and walk around.

Arriving into Eriskay, we drove up to South Uist, admiring the views as we went. We were desperate for some decent food, and after quite a bit of driving with no map or phone signal, managed to find Charlie’s Bistro. 

Lasagne, with chips and garlic bread. TRIPLE carbs. Yes.

The owner, Iain, was lovely. He bought the cafe when it was an old sweet shop, called ‘Charlie’s’. He had fond memories of a childhood popping in there for sweets and so wanted to keep the name, but make it a lovely restaurant. 

He was really helpful in our quest to go wild camping in Scotland and directed us to a few beaches to try where no one would mind. 

Accommodation on Benbecula, South Uist

We ended up at Cula Bay. It was even windier than the night before and we couldn’t actually even get the big tent up. Thankfully I’d taken a one man one and so I slept in that on the beach, while Helen slept in the car. It was a rough night. 

I feel like I’ve learnt a lot about wild camping and though I’d totally do it again, that night was hard. 

The beach was amazing though!

Day 4: Road trip up the Uists, to Harris

Up early, it wasn’t good enough weather to properly enjoy the beach, so we packed up as soon as we woke up, and drove up South Uist and North Uist, with a leisurely drive to the terminal. 

I was determined to use the camping stove and toastie maker I’d bought and so after managing to find an open shop at the terminal, we bought some bread and cheese. Unfortunately the wind was blowing the flame so much it didn’t cook, and so we had dry cold cheese sarnies for breakfast.

There’s nowhere to eat before 12 on South Uist. At least, we couldn’t find anywhere. 

Beneray to Leverburgh to Harris Island –  Departs 11:10 / Arrives 12:10

There’s loads of cool stuff to do on Lewis and Harris, but after two nights of camping, gawd we were tired. 

We decided to head north to our Airbnb and just see what we saw on the way. 

We accidentally happened upon the food truck, Taste n Sea, which actually ended up being my favourite food experience of the whole Outer Hebrides road trip. We didn’t know at the time, but they’re actually pretty highly regarded around the Hebrides. 

I went for cod pieces, Cullen Skink soup, and a tea. All tasted soooo good, and even better with this impressive view to look out on as we ate. 

That gave us a good feed for the day, as we hadn’t realised the portions were quite so big. 

We pootled on to our Airbnb in Cromore, admiring the stunning scenery as we did. If the weather had been better I would’ve gone in for a wild swim.

Accommodation in Harris 

We got to our Airbnb in Cromore, showered and just fell asleep. SO nice to relax in a comfortable Scottish home.

We had a room in a lovely couple’s home, but they had to go to the hospital in Glasgow for a check up so, along with another couple who’d got a room on Airbnb, we had the place to ourselves. Hot shower, lovely kitchen, and a massive DVD collection with a big lounge meant we were very happy to be there.

We paid around £21 each per night.

Day 5: Road trip round Lewis

Up and ready, finally refreshed. We wanted to see as much of Lewis as possible. Big day ahead.

The top things to do in Lewis include hiking, exploring the beaches, enjoying the Circular Scenic Route (which included the impressive Reef Beach), going to see the Callanish Stones , learning about the chess pieces of Lewis, and enjoying the Old Village (wasn’t open). 

We had a great day driving round, BUT, the one thing that was missing, was food . Couldn’t find an open restaurant anywhere (this was Sept 2020). We managed a cup a soup at the Lewis Community Shop (great place), and that was it all day. 

So by 5pm we headed to Stornoway – the main town of the Western Isles and the capital of Lewis and Harris in Scotland. Had to be some food there! 

We went for a pint and a packet of crisps at McNeills pub, and waited for the Harbour Kitchen to open. And when it did, wow. Managed an amazing meal. I ordered mussels and they gave me 71.

I counted them. Staff were lovely, and the bread they gave alongside was an absolute taste sensation. 

Accommodation in Lewis

We stayed at the Airbnb again, on Harris, and watched Braveheart. Lovely evening!

It was a bit of a drive but there weren’t any other option tbh.

89 Road Trip Quotes to Inspire Your Next Adventure

Day 6: Road trip round Harris

Today it was Harris’ turn. What could we find on our big day in Harris on our Outer Hebrides road trip? 

After leaving our Airbnb we headed into Tarbert, where we’d be getting our early ferry from tomorrow, and the most populated area on Harris.

First stop, breakfast. 

After getting some petrol (they do it for you, it’s great) we saw a sign for breakfast at the Harris Hotel . 

Best bacon and egg sandwich ever. It was so hot inside, how did they do it? That set us up, and made us book into the hotel for that night too. As we still hadn’t planned any accommodation for our final night of the Outer Hebrides road trip. 

Day in Harris

We spent our day in Harris exploring Seilebost Beach, Luskentyre Beach, walking out to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse on the Island of Scalpay, shopping in Tarbert, wishing we could go in the Harris Distillery, and generally having a lovely time. 

We had dinner in the hotel – cod and chips, with a herring starter – and drinks in the bar after. It was a great last night on the Outer Hebrides!

TOP TIP: Watch out for which Tarbert you book your hotel in. There’s another one in Argyll, where the Loch Lomond Park is and you don’t want to get muddled.

The Harris Hotel was very ‘Scottish’ looking, and traditional. I thought it was great – we were both impressed with our room. It was definitely bigger than the average, we had a sofa and TV, and of course a private bathroom too. 

It was about a two-minute drive from the port, and walkable to the famous Harris Distillery. There was plenty of parking out front, and the staff were lovely too. 

In fact, everyone we met in the Outer Hebrides was definitely nicer than the average!

You could also try the Hotel Harris, which was a bit more modern and even closer to the ferry terminal. Click here for more photos, prices and availability for the Hotel Hebrides .

Day 7: Tarbert to Uig, in Skye

We were up and out, and managed to get the price of breakfast off our hotel as we didn’t have time to eat it. Pretty happy about that. So useful being about two minutes from the terminal too, glad we invested in the Harris Hotel!

Tarbert to Uig Departs 07:30 / Arrives 09:10

Ferry was pretty chill. Had a gross ‘sausage patty’ sandwich though – if they ask if you want ‘links’, say yes.

Unfortunately for us, the weather was terrible in Skye. My mum had been warning me all week about the weather warnings on breakfast TV. Well, it hit in Skye.

We’d been so excited to explore but the rain really stopped play. Driving was awful, and we couldn’t see the stunning views we knew were beyond the fog.

We drove round Quiraing, and managed a few pics and vista points before the heavens opened.

We sat and had cake in Portree, hoping it’d change. I have been to Skye before, on January 1st and weather was actually way better than in September, just to note. 

We gave up and didn’t even look round Portree in the end. Such a shame as we’d so been looking forward to exploring Skye.

Still determined, we drove up to the Fairy Pools, which look amazing online, but found they weren’t even open thanks to the torrential rainfall.

Driving through Glencoe

We drove south, through Glencoe, stopping at a Tibetan market we happened to see along the way. 

Glencoe is one of the most stunning places in the Highlands, but unfortunately we could barely see past our hands. So, we just decided to head back.

I had a LONG drive to do and wanted to get some of it over with.

We passed Ben Nevis somewhere in the fog, and stopped at Eilean Castle, which was featured in James Bond.

I just carried on driving past Loch Lomond and Pine Trees, through the rain, to Glasgow. 

We arrived into Glasgow at around 6pm, to lovely sun. Forgot what that felt like.

Everything looked great and I’d love to go back to see Glasgow, but for that night, I just wanted dinner and a drink. We went to MacSorley’s next door, and had mac and cheese with pulled pork, and a few gin and tonics.

Accommodation in Glasgow

We stayed at the Jury’s Inn Glasgow, which was in an incredible location, and only £40 for the night. The duvet and pillows there were just AMAZING. Click here to book a bargain at the Jury’s Inn in Glasgow.

Final day map

6 hours 31 minutes drive – probably took me longer

——

Day 8: Glasgow, and home

If you have the time, enjoy looking round Glasgow. It was wonderful weather for it, but I needed to get to my parents in the Midlands. We left, stopping at Tebay Services on the way back for breakfast, and then, home.

A great week road tripping in the Outer Hebrides!

Tips for an Outer Hebrides road trip

– I’d definitely recommend dividing up that last day. It was just too much driving and I couldn’t relax and enjoy the morning.

– Pack some healthy food in the car as it could be hard to find when we wanted it. Barely ate a vegetable all week. 

– The roads are unbelievably well kept, especially compared to down where I live in Hampshire!

– If you want to wild camp, read my guide . 

– You need to adhere to the rule of passing places – and be courteous. 

– Let other drivers pass, as they might be on their way to work while you’re chugging along admiring the view. 

– Keep your petrol topped up. 

Cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip

Outer hebrides ferries.

This is what we spent on ferries for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• Oban to Castlebay = £100
• Eriskay to Barra = £17.15
• Ferry = £21.30
• Tarbert to Uig = £44.65

= £183.10 / 2 = £91.55 each

Outer Hebrides Accommodation

This is what we spent on accommodation for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• Wavecrest Camping x 1 = £10 
• Airbnb house x 2 = £50
• Harris Hotel x 1 = £60
• Jury’s Inn, Glasgow x 1 = £22

= £142 each

Outer Hebrides food

This is what we spent on food for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• We didn’t eat particularly well on this trip, and did actually eat chocolate bars for lunch on two days. Sad times. Had some lovely fish and chips at the Harris Hotel, enjoyed my mussels, and the lasagne and chips were just what I needed.

I’d estimate I spent about £150 on food for the week.

= £150 each

Outer Hebrides petrol

This is what we spent on petrol for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

Petrol was one of the biggest expenses on the trip, and from Preston to Preston again, it cost about £130 between us. 

Total cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip =   £449

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Advice for wild camping & driving in the Outer Hebrides

Wild camping in Scotland is perfectly legal, but there are rules to keep it fun and open to all. If you’re feeling inspired by my wild camping adventure and want to give it a go in the Outer Hebrides, make sure to follow the Scotland wild camping rules.

• You won’t stay longer than three nights in one place. 
• You’ll leave the spot how you find it (or better!).
• No fires. 
• Respect animals, nature and other people. 

Top tips for wild camping 

You need to be prepared for wild camping in the Outer Hebrides. Let me take you through a few lessons learned the hard way, so you don’t make the same mistakes!

– When you choose a spot to camp, look for some sort of shelter. At least from one direction. But, don’t camp between two high points as the wind will funnel through to you. That fresh coastal air can become a howling gale very quickly!

– Getting the tent up is one thing, but getting the pegs to stay in the ground is another. So much of Scotland is either boggy, or dry – so you may have trouble with the tent pegs. I’d recommend getting some storm pegs for extra resilience.  

– Don’t camp next to a stream, or any body of water, as little brooks can easily turn into torrents. You do NOT want to wake up to a river in your tent. 

– Don’t move rocks or dig ditches to make your camping spot better. That’s not how wild camping in Scotland works. And don’t camp near people’s homes, or within view from their house – they won’t like it. 

– My tent was too high, too hard to put up, and there was too much fabric to cope with in the wind. When it comes to choosing a tent, go small, basic and as minimal as possible.

– No matter what the time of years, expect the nights to be cold and pack extra warmth for your tent and sleeping bag.

– Arrive in good time to your spot, so you have the time to pick an exact spot before nightfall. 

Top tips for driving

– Don’t worry about the islands’ road conditions. The roads were amazingly well kept and other motorists were very courteous – we didn’t have a problem. 

– You need to adhere to the rule of passing places and pull over if the passing place is on your side of the road. 

– Keep your petrol topped up as it could be some time between stops. 

– Download your maps to your phone before you start as you might not have phone reception for your trip. Any cafe or restaurant we asked was happy to give out their Wi-Fi code with a purchase so we were ok. 

– Spend some money locally rather than taking your own food or using supermarkets. Try the fish market for lunch in Oban, pick up some treats from the community shop in Harris, try the Hebridean Toffee and eat out to taste the local cuisine. It’s tempting to be 100% prepared, but it’s fun to sample local produce and really helps the local communities too. 

Packing list for your trip

A lightweight tent that’s super easy to pitch, and light. 

Take a good quality all season sleeping bag , and an insulated mat too. Maybe some sort of pillow ? Up to you whether you can be bothered to carry it or not. 

You need a way to get water. I was fine with two bottles kept filled and kept in the car but you can get water treatment tablets from Boots easily enough. 

Camping stove, with a gas cartridge . 

Take a phone power bank , and the midge repellant.

You might want to bring a First Aid Kit, a repair kit for the tent , and some hand sanitising gel too. Make sure your toiletries are all biodegradable. 

Some sort of picnic mat to sit out at night. If you’re in little hiking tents there’s no space to sit up. 

Road trip in the Outer Hebrides

If you want to go road tripping round the Outer Hebrides I wholeheartedly recommend it. I feel like we had a real adventure, at a time when adventures were hard to find. We barely saw a soul out and about, and it was the perfect trip to get away from it all.

If you have any questions about going on a road trip in the Outer Hebrides – let me know in the comments below.

PIN THIS OUTER HEBRIDES ROAD TRIP FOR LATER

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Hi, I'm Vicky! I wrote this. You can find me on all the social media @VickyFlipFlop. I love a bit of adventure, will try anything once, and have a strong passion for the local food and drink, whatever it may be. I'm here to help inspire you to travel to places a little out of your comfort zone, or at least to explore the usual destinations in a different way. Stay, have a look around, and if you have any questions – let me know below.

Hi Vicky Just wanted to say a huge thank you for this outer hebrides route. I have been wanting to see it for years, didn’t really know where to begin or look at what I might need…re ferries etc. Found your travel blog last year and stuck to it like glue!!!! We are now in Lewis, can’t get the ferry to Skye as planned so we are going to Ullapool instead and driving there instead!! More adventures for us! Cannot thank you enough the Outer Hebrides and the people have been above and beyond. Keep up the fabulous blogs ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

Loved reading about your Western Isles adventure, planning ours now.. Regards, Kel and Carole Coles.. South Wales

Hi Vicky, Thanks for the flip flop advice.Looks like we might have to do this trip. But not wild camping,can you recommend doing this in a camper van / motor home . We are both retired and so the time of year is not an issue. Kind regards, John

Can you park a campervan on Cula Bay. I grew up in Benbecula from age 4 until 9 going back 45years now and spent every weekend with our caravan on Cula Bay through the summer. I am taking my 15 yr old daughter this Summer and your road trip has been very useful. We are taking 2 weeks traveling from Petersfield near Portsmouth so any suggestions of places to give more time

Just read your Outer Hebrides Road Trip article and found it fascinating and very useful . We are hoping to do a very similar thing in April/May, except that we shall be taking two weeks instead of your one and we shall return via Stornoway and Ullapool. Oh, and as we are both approaching the age of 80, we shall be staying in hotels and guest houses, not camping! We actually booked it first for 2020 (cancelled because of COVID), then for 2021 (ditto!), so this is our third attempt to do this trip. Like you, we shall take the ferry from Oban to Castlebay (thanks for the warning about rough seas!), then we spend two nights each on Barra, South Uist, North Uist, Harris (three nights there), Lewis west coast, and Lewis east coast (north of Stornoway). I have had three years to do my research and thought I had everything sussed, but your article gave me ten very useful facts that I had missed (places to eat, for example, and even a beach that I’d managed to miss!). Many, many thanks for your report.

Hello David, that’s so wonderful to hear. It warms my heart that I’ve helped plan your trip! That will be fantastic over two weeks. When I think back it was a little rushed with all the driving, two weeks will be perfect to be able to enjoy it all properly. Hotels are a great idea too!

Sounds like you have a fantastic itinerary and I hope you have a great time. It really is a stunning part of the world, whatever the weather. Hope you enjoy those impressive beaches!

@David Briers, Hi, did you manage to do your trip David.. My wife and I hope to do a similar trip next Spring.. Started planning today.. Would love to know how you get/got on??? Oh by the way, we are spring chickens..65 ish traveling by car and utilising hotels and guest houses hopefully. Kind regards, Kel and Carole Coles. S.Wales

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Grand Tour of the Outer Hebrides - 6 day tour

Grand Tour of the Outer Hebrides 6 day / 5 night

The Western Isles lie off the West Coast of Scotland and feature dazzlingly white beaches, loch-dotted landscapes, pre-historic sites and an amazing array of wildlife. This extended tour through the islands of the Outer Hebrides will introduce you to their stunning beauty and unique culture, all preserved by their remote location on the very edge of Europe.  

Glenfinnan - tour along the famous “Road to the Isles” to see the Glenfinnan Viaduct, famous from the Harry Potter movies

Isle of Eriskay - Walk-in Bonnie Prince Charlie’s footsteps along the beach where he first set foot in Scotland in 1745

Isle of Vatersay - learn the story of the SS Politician, which was the inspiration for the book, Whisky Galore  

Isle of Barra - admire the white sandy beaches and enjoy free time in the charming village of Castlebay

Isle of Lewis - experience a full day tour visiting the pre-historic sites of Dun Carloway Broch and the Callanish Standing Stones  

Movie locations - Harry Potter, Whisky Galore and Brave

Hotel accommodation included

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Full Tour Itinerary

Select Day:

Day 1 - Edinburgh/Glasgow - Mallaig - Benbecula

Bidding farewell to Edinburgh and Glasgow our journey takes us into the scenic beauty of the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park . After a break for refreshments, we travel over the vast wilderness of Rannoch Moor to reach Glen Coe, famous for its mountain scenery and being the site of the infamous massacre of the MacDonald clan in 1692.

A drive along the banks of Loch Linnhe brings us to Fort William and Ben Nevis, Britain’s tallest mountain. The next part of our journey will take us along the “ Road to the Isles ”, one of Scotland’s most scenic routes where we will pass the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct, made famous in the Harry Potter movies.

At Mallaig, we board the ferry for our crossing to Lochboisdale on the island of South Uist. As we make our way, lookout for beautiful views of the Cuillin Hills on Skye and the small isles of Rum and Canna. Dinner will be served en route, so on arrival, we head directly to our hotel on Benbecula.

Please note: some departures may operate in reverse.

Overnight: Dark Island Hotel, Benbecula (or similar) (2 nights)

Day 2 - Exploring Eriskay and Vatersay

After our first Hebridean breakfast, it’s time to board our coach and make our way through South Uist and across the causeway to reach the little island of Eriskay. Meaning “Eric’s Island” in Norse, this was where  Bonnie Prince Charlie  landed on 23 July 1745 to start his ultimately failed attempt to capture the British Crown for the Stuart Dynasty. We’ll see the beach where this critical event in Scottish history occurred. 

As we continue our drive, look out for an Eriskay Pony. They are unique to the island and only recently saved from extinction. We board the ferry bound for Barra, where, as we arrive in Castlebay, there are beautiful views of Kisimul Castle to enjoy. 

We’ll visit the castle, once a stronghold of the Clan MacNeil. It dates from the 11th Century and is the sole example of a medieval castle in the Western Isles. During our tour, we’ll see the great hall, kitchen, dungeon and the impressive 60-foot tower. 

Back on Barra, we’ll see Cockleshell Beach, the only airfield where the tides dictate the flight times. 

Look out for “Suidheachan”, the former home of the author  Sir Compton MacKenzie , who wrote “Whisky Galore”, a tale that was based on an actual event that took place here in 1941. The book spawned two movies. The classic version dates from 1949 and was filmed mainly on the neighbouring island of Vatersay, our next destination. 

We’ll return to Eriskay by ferry and return to our hotel, where dinner awaits.

Day 3 - Benbecula - Isle of Harris - Stornoway

It’s time to bid farewell to Benbecula today as we travel northwards using the causeway to reach North Uist. The landscape is scattered with little lochans, while on the coast, there are beautiful sandy beaches to explore. At Berneray, we catch the ferry for the short crossing to the Isle of Harris.  

Our landfall is in Leverburgh, a little village renamed by Lord Leverhulme , who planned to turn the village into a major fishing port. His dream died with him in 1925, and the project was abandoned.   

We’ll stop in Rodel to visit  St Clement’s Church , which dominates the village. Built for the Clan MacLeod, it dates from the 15th Century and was dedicated to Pope Clement I. The church tombs are amongst the most spectacular in Scotland.   

We take the coastal route to see the stunning beaches at Horgabost, Borve and Scarasta. There are also fantastic views over to the little island of Taransay , which found unlikely fame in the BBC programme “Castaway”. 

We’ll make a stop so you can enjoy some refreshments in Tarbert, the primary community on the Island of Harris. From here, we’ll travel through the mountainous scenery of North Harris and make our way into Lewis. Our home for the next three nights will be in Stornoway.

Overnight: Caberfeidh Hotel, Stornoway (or similar) (3 nights)

Day 4 - Excursion to Callanish Standing Stones and Norse Mill

After breakfast, we leave Stornoway behind and make our way to the wild west coast of Lewis to visit the Standing Stones of Callanish . Thought to be over 5,000 years old, there are some 50 stones, including 19 monoliths marking out a megalithic avenue and a circle of 13 stones, with a cairn in the middle. The purpose of the stones is lost in the mists of time. Some experts claim it was a place of ritual activity. Others suggest it was some form of astronomical observatory.

Later, we move on to visit the Black Houses at Gearrannan. These thatched houses were once a common sight throughout the Highlands and Islands until relatively recently. Housing livestock as well as people, they were built with double walls to give extra protection from the elements. Many had no chimney, so the smoke just escaped through the turf roof.

Our last visit today is to Shawbost, where we’ll visit the Norse Mill and Kiln , a well-preserved grain mill of a style used by the Vikings, who settled in Lewis around the 12th Century. This example was used by the islanders up until the 1930s. Enjoy the lovely ocean views as we explore these picturesque thatched buildings.

Day 5 - Butt of Lewis Excursion

This morning is spent in Stornoway. This bustling port is the island’s main town and developed from a Viking settlement around a sheltered bay.

Today, we visit Lews Castle , built as a country house that was gifted to the people of Stornoway in 1923. Today it’s a museum that contains six of the fascinating Lewis Chessmen , a collection of 12th Century chess pieces. You can also take a virtual journey through the islands in a series of wrap-around video presentations.

On the outskirts of Stornoway sits Eaglais-na h-Aoidhe , also known as St Columba’s Ui Church. This medieval building is one of the most significant archaeological sites on Lewis. It’s thought the main church dates from the 13th Century or even earlier. It became the burial site for the Macleod Chiefs of Lewis. During your visit look out for the two central carved stones, they are amongst the best examples to be found in Scotland.

Later, we travel to the northerly tip of the island, home to generations of hardy seafarers. We’ll visit the Port of Ness before moving on to the  Butt of Lewis , where the Atlantic waves crash into the cliffs, guarded by a unique lighthouse designed by the prolific lighthouse engineer David Stevenson in 1862. 

Day 6 - Stornoway - Inverness – Edinburgh/Glasgow

We have an early start this morning as we head to the ferry terminal for our sailing back to the mainland. Crossing The Minch will take around 2 hours and 30 minutes, and breakfast will be served on board.

The sheltered waters of Loch Broom will guide us towards the picturesque town of Ullapool , where we disembark. Back on our coach, we’ll travel through the North West Highlands to reach Inverness, the Capital of the Highlands.

Our journey south will continue into the picturesque Cairngorms National Park, then through the Grampian Mountains to reach Highland Perthshire.

After a break, we’ll continue through the Kingdom of Fife, then across the Forth Estuary to reach Edinburgh, and then to Glasgow.  

Frequently Asked Questions

What can i expect on this escorted tour.

If you enjoy the art of first-class travel whilst enjoying amazing value then an Escorted Tour is just for you. These tours are carefully researched and combine quality hotels, luxury travel, informative visits and leisure time. You’ll find our Escorted Tours to be memorable - for all the right reasons!

You will travel aboard a state of the art motorcoach with air-conditioning, reclining seats, oversized windows and emergency washroom. Many coaches are equipped with WiFi too.

An experienced tour manager will lead the tour and your coach will be expertly driven by a professional driver. In certain locations you’ll may be joined by a local guide who will provide local insight and show you the highlights.

These tours are inclusive of superior tourist class accommodation, transportation, selected admission fees and many meals.

On many tours you’ll have the chance to personalise your touring experience by participating in some carefully planned optional excursions. These are at additional expense and, if available, details will be provided with your tour documentation.

What type of room should I choose?

Selecting the right sleeping arrangements can be a little bit confusing, so here is a description of what you can expect from the hotel accommodation offered as part of your tour:

Single room - this is a room for one person sleeping in a single bed. 

Twin room - this is a room for two people sleeping in two separate beds.

Double room - this is a room for two people sharing one large bed. 

Family room - this is a room for three people sleeping in one large bed (2 people) and one single bed (1 person).

Please note that a family room  is normally a standard double or twin room with either a sofa bed or a rollaway bed.

All room types, other than twin rooms, are subject to availability. 

Can you arrange pre or post tour accommodation?

If you are flying internationally to reach United Kingdom then it is worth considering arriving a day early to relax and let the jet-leg subside.

Please email us for a quotation at [email protected] .

How much luggage can I bring?

You can bring one suitcase and one carry-on bag per person. The maximum weight allowance and luggage dimensions varies by tour so you should check the tour documentation for the luggage policy that applies to your tour.  

What meals are included?

One of the great things about travelling on an Escorted/ Premium Escorted Tour is the generous number of meals included as standard.

Start the day with a freshly cooked breakfast or, if you prefer, there’s always a lighter continental option available too. You’ll find a number of evening dinners included which will give you the opportunity of sampling some local delicacies.

Check the “What’s Included' list on the relevant tour page for the exact number of meals that are featured on your tour.

View all Frequently Asked Questions...

Accommodation

• 5 nights hotel accommodation
• Location: Benbecula (2) and Stornoway, Isle of Lewis (3)
• Cooked/Continental breakfast (5)
• Table d’hote dinners (5)

Visits, Admissions and Experiences

• Admission to Kisimul Castle, St Clements Church, Callanish Standing Stones, Gearannan Blackhouse village, Norse Mill, Lews Castle and Museum and St Columba’s Church Ui.  

Tour Essentials

• Touring by luxury air-conditioned coach with reclining seats 
• All ferry fares and reservations
• All baggage handling and hotel tips are included
• Services throughout the tour of a professional Tour Director
• Service charges and taxes 

Departure information

From Glasgow

North Hanover Street Bus Stance, Glasgow, G1 2BP

Tour departure times will be advised in your tour documentation. 

Check-in: TBA hrs Tour Departs: TBA hrs Tour Returns: TBA hrs

From Edinburgh

Outside Reception at the Delta Hotels by Marriott Edinburgh 111 Glasgow Road Edinburgh EH12 8NF

Child details

Please contact us for information on child prices. 

Price Notes

Accommodation The price of this tour includes hotel accommodation with en-suite bathroom. 

Departure and Return Times Final timings and pick-up points will be confirmed with your joining instructions approximately 10 days before departure.

FAQs Please see the FAQ section for more information on this tour.

Product code BW 02962

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Customer Reviews Overall Rating:

we had a lovely tour of the islands. very informative and a friendly guide. everything done to make the trip enjoyable.

The scenery was stunning. The hotels were nice. The driver, Ian, was first rate. I have never seen a more well cared for and clean coach. And he'd done this trip many times, so was able to point out places of interest and share local stories. Definitely a trip worth taking!

A very full itinerary made the most of our time in the Outer Hebrides, maximising the number of islands visited. Some long days but literally covered a lot of ground. Very interesting history, archaeology and geography with stunning scenery too.

5 day tour from £ 850.00

10 day tour from £ 3139.00

8 day tour from £ 1500.00

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Outer Hebrides Hopscotch

Gearrannan Blackhouse Village on Lewis

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The perfect introduction to these magical islands, exploring from Barra to the Uists, then Lewis & Harris.

*As featured in The Telegraph Travel in June 2016 – Free spirit: island hopping in the Outer Hebrides *

Scattered in a 130-mile arc off the north-west coast of Scotland, the Outer Hebrides invariably seduce newcomers with their intoxicating blend of wild natural beauty, abundant wildlife, sparkling sandy beaches and stunning rocky landscapes.  You’ll be entranced by dramatically different sights on this island-hopping adventure – everything from unforgettable sunsets to mysterious stone circles, perhaps even an otter scampering across the road.

This holiday is described as self-drive with your own car. Alternatively, we can arrange a fly-drive Outer Hebrides holiday for you or why not choose to explore car-free?

• McKinlay Kidd

Holiday Details

Day one – to the isle of barra.

Your first Hebridean destination is the Isle of Barra in the south; your ferry departs from the port of Oban on the west coast. Look out for whales and dolphins as you cross the Sea of the Hebrides.

Your Accommodation on Barra

A short drive from the arrival port in Castlebay brings you to your first accommodation, where a traditional island welcome awaits. Here you’ll begin to discover the stories of Barra, including the part the island played in the classic 1948 film Whisky Galore . Your comfortable home-from-home is a great spot to begin your Hebridean odyssey.

Day Two – Free Time on Beautiful Barra

Take a walk along the sparkling white sands of Cockle Strand and spot a plane landing at low tide – an unforgettable sight. Drive or cycle up to Eoligarry and feast your eyes on the springtime profusion of primroses as you gaze across the sound to Fuday, Eriskay and South Uist in the distance. Or head south to Castlebay, the island capital, and visit Kisimul Castle, restored ancestral home of the clan MacNeil.  Stop off at the highly informative Heritage Centre, where you can enjoy coffee and refreshments before perhaps taking a picnic across the causeway to Vatersay, with its glorious twin beaches.

Day Three – To North Uist

Leaving the little island of Barra via the ferry to Eriskay, you will then travel along the spectacular waterside roads of Uist to your next destination in the north.

Your Accommodation on North Uist

In an ideal position near the southern tip of North Uist, a few short steps from the unspoilt  machair  and sandy beach of  Carinish , your family run hotel here is a pretty little island haven.

Recently refurbished throughout, splashes of bold colour sitting comfortably alongside the sturdy original masonry in the sun lounge and bar. From the kitchen to the dining room table, a menu of the very best local produce, including shellfish from the  Minch is served in homemade style. En-suite rooms feature views of the ruined 13th century temple to the west or the moorland and distant hills to the east.

Day Four – Explore the Uists

The islands of Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, Grimsay, North Uist and Berneray are all inter-connected by causeways, making it easy to explore them all. Do take heed of the signs and watch out for otters crossing!

There are abundant local walks whether on wide-open empty beaches, along the machair or in the heather-clad hills. Just take a range of clothing and a few supplies, as facilities can be few and far between in this remote corner of Scotland, and the weather changes rapidly. Woodland is sparse here. In fact there are very few trees at all. Look out instead for the furrows and little heaps of peat, still cut by hand for winter warmth.

You’ll see ruined and restored cottages and blackhouses across the islands; evidence of a larger population before the Highland Clearances and emigration in the nineteenth century. Take a drive around the northern loop on North Uist, and you will come across the Georgian folly of Scolpaig Tower, plus one of the smartest and most photogenic of blackhouses, huddling under its thatched roof, against a backdrop of shimmering sand.

Birdwatchers will not want to miss the RSPB Balranald Nature Reserve on the West coast of North Uist. It is home to thousands of coastal waders and divers, an ideal place to hear the distinctive call of the elusive corncrake as well as being lovely place for a stroll.

Day Five – To Harris

Your last destination on the Outer Hebrides is found near the main island village of Tarbert on Harris.

Your Accommodation on Harris

This modern four star guest house exudes a warm, traditional Hebridean welcome and offers a quiet retreat from which to appreciate the beauty of the surrounding area where reed-edged lochans and undulating hills drift into the distance. Yet it’s just a few minutes’ drive or a 20 minute walk into the main settlement of Tarbert.

Day Six – At Leisure on Harris & Lewis

With its magnificent scenery and spectacular beaches, Harris offers unrivalled opportunities for hillwalkers, anglers, divers, birdwatchers and wildlife lovers. And don’t miss Rodel’s exquisite 15th century church of St Clement’s, with its wonderful medieval tombs and wood carvings. The prehistoric sites of Lewis, including Callanish standing stones, are perfectly feasible for a day trip.

Day Seven – Return Home

Today you will leave the Outer Hebrides by way of the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool. Or, if you prefer, you can return home via Skye. In either case we can arrange for a stop-off for you.

The Outer Hebrides, including Barra, North Uist and Harris, from where you can explore Lewis. The holiday includes ferry crossings from Oban-Barra, Barra- Eriskay, North Uist – Harris, and Stornoway-Ullapool (or Harris – Skye). This holiday can also be arranged in reverse.

£765 per person in April & October and £835 per person for May to September.

Prices are based on two people sharing a room for six nights on a bed & breakfast basis. This includes ferry crossings from Oban-Barra, Barra- Eriskay, North Uist – Harris, and Stornoway-Ullapool (or Harris – Skye) for a car and two adult passengers.

Before your departure, you will receive personalised holiday information including full directions, recommended routes, and suggestions on places to visit depending on your interests and our local knowledge to help you get the most from your holiday.

All itineraries and room types are presented subject to availability at specific hotels.

We work hard to make sure the unexpected doesn’t affect your trip. On rare occasions, changes or cancellations may occur, affecting accommodation, transport or excursions. We are committed to informing you of any such circumstances and will use our knowledge and resources to offer suitable alternatives wherever possible.

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This holiday can be arranged from early April to the middle of October.

Availability is individually checked for a hand-picked selection of smaller hotels, guest houses and other independent businesses, so please bear with us and we will respond in 1-2 working days.

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Every place Robert recommended was well worth seeing. We have been raving about our holiday, before and after.

Magnificent scenery, splendid beaches, the friendliness of the people…you have the perfect formula.

Each of the islands offered something special and we enjoyed the different geography, scenery and culture of each.

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The Ultimate Outer Hebrides Tour

A string of surprising islands and the mythical lands in the centre of the country. fabulous scotland .

The North of Scotland... Strange, wild lands, and unparalleled atmospheres: misty reliefs, moorland, peatlands, and castles steeped in legend since time immemorial... Departing from Glasgow, we’ll head to an archipelago that has always appealed to travelers who love vast open spaces: The Hebrides. First Lewis and Harris, an entirely different world. Remote hamlets, dune deserts, intimate trails, spectacular mountains, and stunning white sand beaches that are worthy of the Caribbean. Then, we will move to the Isle of Skye to discover its main attractions, in particular the Cuillins mountain range, the citadel of the "Old man of storr", the colourful houses of Portree and a famous distillery. Then The Uists, Barra and Vatersay. We'll spend a week in the heart of these idyllic landscapes before heading back to the mainland and ending our journey in the warmth of Glasgow's finest cultural features and the best whisky in the world.

You will like...

A real scottish adventure.

Seeing Scotland from every angle: mountains, coasts, islands, and towns.

Highlights of Scotland

Enjoying the attractions of the Isle of Skye, the third most beautiful island in the world according to National Geographic.

Charming and unknowned islands

Being charmed by the Outer Hebrides: Harris Lewis, North Uist, South Uist.

The best locals addresses

Discovering the good addresses revealed by our guide along the way.

Trip Itinerary

Check out or itinerary, don't forget we can customize this trip ! We can’t wait to show you around!

Itinerary map

Pricing Chart

Our “from” price is based on mid-season prices and for a group of 8 people.

What's included ?

• Trip organisation (customisation and bookings)
• Accomodations
• Fully qualified guide
• Breakfasts and lunches
• All ferry crossings
• 24/7 emergency telephone support

What's not included ?

• Entry fees to attractions such as distilleries or museums

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