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Will My RV Air Conditioner Run on 110 Electric Power

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After you purchase your RV, you will be excited to take it out and get your first trip started. Many people will choose the summer as the ideal time of year to take their RV out on the road. During this time you will probably want to use an air conditioner so that you have a place to cool down after a long day out in the heat. However, you also may be curious about the power required to run your air conditioner. Can an air conditioner run on 110 electric power? Yes, you will be able to run your air conditioner with that level of power. However, you will not be able to run anything else because it will take up the majority of your electric power.

When you power the appliances in an RV you have a limited amount of electric power. The amount of power you have will vary based on the RV you purchased. If you are using an RV with 110 electric power, you are using an RV with a lower amount of electric power. An air conditioner will use up nearly all of that power. As a result, you will not be able to use your coffee maker, hair dryer, microwave, or anything else that requires electric power while it is running. So, you will need to balance how much and how often you use your air conditioner.

Can I Run My RV AC When Plugged Into My House?

The first thing you need to understand before we get into answering this question is the conversion between electric power and amps. Typically, 110 electric power is going to give you around 15 amps. The average air conditioner that you use in your RV will require 13.5 amps to run.

The average electric socket that you find all over your house is going to give you 15 amps. As a result, it is possible to run your RV air conditioner when you are plugged into your house. However, that is all you will be able to run because it will take up the majority of your electric power. So, you can keep your RV cool while you run inside to get something before you leave, but you cannot run a microwave, or coffee maker, or any other appliance.

Can I Run My RV AC When Plugged Into a Generator?

Every RV owner needs a generator. Many campsites will have a source for you to plug in your RV and power your appliances. However, there is always the risk that there will be a power outage and you will be out of luck. In these situations you need a generator so that you can power your appliances in an emergency.

Generators work like RV shore power as they plug into your air conditioning system and provide AC power. Your average generator will not provide as much RV power as shore power does, but that mostly depends on the size of your generator. Generators are rated in watts instead of amps. So, you will need a generator with more watts if you have a larger RV. Typically, you will want a 1000 watt generator for a small RV if you do not want to run an air conditioner. However, if you do need to run an air conditioner you will need a larger generator.

So, you can run your air conditioner while you are plugged into a generator. However, you need to make sure that it is generating at least 110 electric power. Otherwise, you will not have enough power to run your air conditioner.

RELATED READING

For some great info about the best portable generators for your RV, check out our article called 10 Best Portable and Quiet Generators for Camping .

Can I Run My RV Air Conditioner on Battery Power?

Unfortunately, you will almost certainly not be able to run your RV air conditioner on battery power. It takes a great deal of power to start up your air conditioner, and even more electricity to keep it running for an hour. In theory, it is possible to be able to do this. However, it would require a tremendous amount of battery power and that is just not realistic for most people.

Most RVs these days are equipped with a 15,000 BTU air conditioner. One air conditioner of this size requires a minimum of 3500 watts just to start it up. It then will take about 1500 watts of constant power to keep it running. What this all means is that you need a minimum of a 4000 watt DC-to-AC power inverter. You need one of these to convert your battery power to usable AC electricity. Unfortunately, most RVs do not come equipped with an inverter that size. Instead, they come equipped with an inverter ranging from 1000 to 2000 watts. As a result, you will need to purchase a new inverter if you want to use battery power.

Can I Plug My RV Into a 110 Outlet?

When you are at home, you may be tempted to plug your RV into your house’s electrical system. However, it is generally not recommended to do this for an extended period of time. It is possible to power your RV for a short period of time with an outlet from your house. However, doing so for a long time can have consequences.

A Non Technical Explanation of 110 Electric Power

There are many ways to measure electricity, amps, watts, electric power, and many more. Typically, electric power is used as a measurement for the power that comes from an outlet or something of that nature. Conversely, amps are used to indicate how much power is required to use them. 110 electric power is incredibly common because it is the power that a typical outlet generates. 110 electric power is equal to 15 amps.

Most appliances will tell you what the required wattage or amperage is to run the appliance. Here is the amperage draw for some common RV appliances and electronics.

• Roof air conditioner – 13.5 amps
• Coffee maker – 8.3 amps
• Converter – 8 amps
• Hair dryer – 9 to 12 amps
• Microwave – 13 amps
• Refrigerator – 2.8 amps
• TV – 1.5 amps
• Toaster – 8 to 10 amps
• DVD – 2 amps
• Electric skillet – 6 to 12 amps

What Does 30 Amp and 50 Amp Mean?

When you are dealing with amperage, wattage, and electric power it can be easy to get confused. Not everyone is a mechanic or technician and understands all the technical aspects of RV ownership. However, there are some things you should know after you purchase your first RV.

A 30 amp service supplies a total of 30 amps of 120 volts AC on a single line. Conversely, 50 amp power actually provides two separate 50 amp lines, for a total capacity of 100 amps. So, although it may seem like a 30 amp service is only slightly less effective than a 50 amp service, it is actually more than three times less powerful.

Do I Need a Surge Protector for My RV?

Everyone has heard the phrase, better safe than sorry. That phrase applies perfectly in this situation because ideally you will never need it, but if you ever do need but you will be glad you have it when you do. It is the same reason you buy a toilet plunger. You hope you do not need it, but it would really suck to not have one when you needed it.

Every RV owner should have some sort of voltage protection for their RV. If you do not have one, all it is going to take in one voltage spike to cause thousands of dollars of damage. Losing all that money and time could be avoided if you simply took the time to purchase and install a surge protector before you took out your RV for the first time.

For a thorough understanding of RV surge protectors complete with reviews check out our article called 10 Best RV Surge Protectors – 2020 Reviews .

Can I Run My RV AC While Driving?

Yes, in most cases you can run both your dash air conditioner and roof air conditioner while driving. However, this largely depends on the source of energy you are using to run the rooftop air conditioner. As for running the dash air conditioner, you can run it all the time without any issues.

Running an air conditioner requires more power than any other appliance in your RV. As a result, that means you will be using more gas than you would be if it were not running. So, when you run your air conditioner, you will notice that your miles per gallon will drop. This is not an issue when you use the dash air conditioner, it is only a problem when using the roof air conditioner.

Many people may ask why you would run your rooftop air conditioner instead of just using your dash AC? It mostly comes down to the size of RVs. The dash air conditioner that you have in your RV is not any more powerful than the one installed in a regular car. As a result, it does not have the power to cool such as large space. So, people need to use their roof air conditioners to ensure that they are kept cool on a long road trip.

However, it is important to keep an eye on your fuel level while you have your roof air conditioner running. As we mentioned above, having your AC running will have a significant effect on your miles per gallon. As a result, you will run out of gas sooner than you would normally expect. So, you need to keep a close eye on your fuel levels so that you do not run out gas unexpectedly.

Check out our article called Can I Run the RV A/C While Driving? for a deep dive into driving your RV with the rooftop A/C on.

Stay Cool on Your Next Trip with Your RV Air Conditioner

After reading, we hope you have all the information you need relating to RV air conditioners and how they are powered. We know there is a lot of information and it can be difficult to understand, but it is important to have some knowledge on these topics. Not everyone needs to have an insane level of technical knowledge about every aspect of their RV. However, everyone should have a little bit of knowledge so that they can make informed decisions relating to their RV appliances.

Your RV air conditioner is one of the most important appliances in your RV. When you go out on a trip during the summer, you will be in situations where it is incredibly hot outside. After a long day out in the sun, it is extremely refreshing to go inside your RV with the air conditioner blasting cold air. However, that is not possible if you cannot power it. As a result, you need to make sure that you have the correct electric power to power your air conditioner.

Finally, before you head out on the road, it is very important that you purchase a surge protector. An electrical surge with out any surge protection can cause thousands of dollars in damages. The price of a surge protector far outweighs the possible price of surge damages. So, take the time to purchase a surge protector before you take your first trip.

Are you a new or experienced RV owner? Have you purchased your first RV yet? What type of RV do you own or plan on buying? Let us know in the comments!

3 thoughts on “Will My RV Air Conditioner Run on 110 Electric Power”

Thanks. We are brand new to RVing and like our AC.

Can I use my coffee maker and my heater separately plugged into a 110 outlet on my 24ft RV

just those nothing else small coffee maker if bigger just the coffee maker make the coffee then turn on heater plus do not run on same circuit heater is 1000 to 1500 watts a big coffee maker may take up to a 1000 watts

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RV Trips & Travel

Advise to Keep you and your RV in Good shape

Air Conditioner · December 30, 2021

RV Ducted Air Conditioner Installation: The Ultimate Guide

If the ducted air conditioner unit in your RV is no longer up to par, unable to keep the vehicle nice and cool, it’s time to swap it out. Once you’ve decided to make the change, picked out the new unit, and either picked it up or had it delivered, it’s time to get it in place. You could hire someone to set everything up for you, but DIY savvy RV owners might see this as a great project opportunity. 

Installing a new AC in an RV might seem like a difficult task. In actuality, it’s a very doable project that requires just the right tools, know-how, and time. Buying a ducted AC is a costly affair, but if you know how to install it, you’ll better know how to repair it down the line. This will ultimately save you a little bit of money; money you can spend enjoying your time on the road. 

To install a ducted air conditioner on your RV, you’ll need to follow a few basic steps, starting with either removing the shroud or removing the inside panel. Then, remove the ceiling assembly on your air conditioner. Disconnect the wiring, remove the retaining flange bolts, and use a putty knife to separate the gasket. 

RV Ducted Air Conditioner Installation

When you go about your RV ducted air conditioner installation, it might be in your best interest to have a friend help out. Having another hand on deck to help out will not just make it go faster, but it will also keep you safe while you’re on the roof of the RV. 

Just as with any RV installation, do not attempt some aspects of this that you’re not completely confident with. If you think you might hurt yourself, or potentially damage the unit or your RV, call a technician. They’ll have the skills and training to do it correctly. 

That said, it is not too hard to install a ducted AC in your RV. The installation will have two parts: the ‘inside’ and ‘outside’ components. 

It might seem obvious, but if you find that your AC unit isn’t cooling down the inside of the RV, check the filter . A dirty filter could be what is keeping it from working at top performance. Try your AC again after replacing the filter to see if this is what is causing the malfunction. 

It’s best to replace the filter every two months. This will keep the AC working the best it can, ensuring maximum longevity. 

Another thing that could be causing the ducted AC to not work correctly is a dirty cold air return. The cold air return is responsible for rerouting air through the vents so that it can escape. When this gets filled with dust, lint, or debris, your ACs performance will weaken. 

If you notice the air inside your RV is dusty or dirty, check the cold air return. Cleaning this out is easier and cheaper than replacing the entire unit. 

How Does A Ducted RV AC Work? 

The two types of RV air conditioners are non-ducted and ducted. Non-ducted models pump air out of the bottom section of the unit. They use a lower vent system to achieve this. The ducted styles are what you’d see in a motorhome, something with multiple ducts in the ceiling. If your RV has multiple rooms with vents, it has a ducted system. 

A ducted RV AC works by distributing the air through all of the ducts that are connected to it. This allows the entirety of the cabin to be cooled down at once. Non-ducted will cool one area, but in a strong enough way that it might be felt in other rooms. 

Step One: Prepare 

Before you begin, you’ll need to get everything ready. Set aside a few hours to work on this, so you don’t have to leave the project half done. Make sure you start early in the day so that you 

have plenty of daylight to work with, but keep aside time to head inside if it gets hot. 

As a part of the process, you’re going to be removing and replacing the shroud. If you’re replacing the ducted air conditioner with one of a different make or model, be sure to measure. You’ll need to be sure that the old shroud will fit on the new unit. 

Do not begin this project if you’re still hooked up to shore power. If you have an inverter, turn the breaker off. You don’t want any power flowing through to the AC. 

To undergo a ducted air conditioner installation, you will also need to gather up a few essential tools. Most of these tools are something you might already have in any standard tool kit. 

Tools Needed 

• Screwdriver 
• Wrench 
• Putty knife 
• Electrical tape 

It will also help to have a blanket, tarp, or drop cloth to put down while you’re working. To protect your hands, gloves that will keep them safe while still allowing your hands to move detrously are your best bet.

If you’re starting inside, you can move on to step two. 

If you’re starting outside, head up to the roof of your RV. Lay your drop cloth or tarp down around the area where the new ducted AC is going to be installed. If you’re unsure if the roof of the vehicle will be able to support your weight, surround the frame with plywood or planks to supply additional support. Then, go to step three. 

Step Two: Remove Inside Components 

Inside the RV you’ll find the panel where your AC vents come from the roof of your RV. You’ll want to remove the four screws that hold that panel into place, revealing the internal components. 

Your ducted AC is more or less comprised of two major parts: the interior part that you’ll see within the cabin of the RV, and the exterior. The exterior is going to be on the roof, which you’ll have either already removed or will be removing next. 

Remove the four flange bolts that are on the metal base of the interior component. There should be one in each corner. Their function is to hold on to the inside of the ceiling, and to pull the AC down. This creates a sort of ‘clamp’ to keep everything in place. 

Disconnect the 120 volt wire that comes out of the side of the frame of the RV. It will be a bundle of three wires combined into one tubing in most models. Use a pair of heavy rubber gloves and work carefully to disconnect these wires, making sure to not lose track of them. 

Step Three: Remove The Shroud Outside

A ducted RV air conditioning unit will have a shroud around it. The shroud is a sort of ‘shell’ that goes around the actual AC unit that will protect it from external damage. It’s made of extra durable plastic, fiberglas, or ABS plastic. It will cover the entirety of the AC itself. 

There are a lot of things that your AC’s shroud is protecting it from, but it takes a beating while it does so. It is exposed to elements like rain, tree branches, hail, and sun damage. While it’s meant to be durable, it will eventually wear down. 

If you’re replacing a ducted air conditioner, you might want to consider replacing the shroud. You can just use the same one that was present on the old unit, but take a look at it before you decide to. Check it for any potential damages. Sun damage in particular could have caused the shroud to become brittle. 

If you need to replace the shroud, now is a good time to get it done. Make sure that your new shroud is going to be completely compatible with the new ducted air conditioner. It’s best to find one that is from the same manufacturer. 

To remove the shroud, use a wrench or screwdriver to loosen and remove the bolts. There are usually going to be about four screws on the shroud holding it down. If you find any bits of putty or adhesive around the edges, use your putty knife to scrape it away. 

Step Four: Unbolt 

There are going to be bolts directly on the air conditioner that are directly holding it down. They’ll likely be set into a bracket that is threaded into the rooftop of the RV itself. Specifically, you’ll find a rubber seal that is securing the bolts to the roof. 

When you remove the bolts, you’ll release the ceiling flange. Loosen up the ducting and then use your putty knife once more to loosen the AC entirely from the rooftop. If you want to clean off any dirt or debris that might have slipped under the unit or the shroud, now is the perfect time to do so. 

Warm water and soap rubbed on with a coarse rag should loosen up any dirt, assuming you were able to remove all of the putty. You can also use a cleaning sponge, such as a Magic Eraser, to brighten up dingy spots. 

Now is a good time to check for any additional cracks or damages that might lead to leaks in the future. Use a spackle or sealant putty to seal them back up. 

Step Five: Place The AC 

Now you need to hoist your new unit up to the roof if you have not done so already. It’s best to have someone help you with this, as it will undoubtedly be large and heavy. You’re going to be setting the AC right into the place where the old one went. Position it above the duct hole, ensuring that it will line up perfectly. 

The roof will have an opening, usually 14 x 14 or 16 x 16 for the ducted AC to go. The gasket needs to be perfectly aligned here to ensure that everything will be able to screw into place correctly. If possible, have one person go inside while the other stays on the roof. This will help you ensure that everything is lining up right. 

When you purchased the new ducted AC unit, you’ll have seen an instruction or owner’s manual packaged with it. Follow the instructions detailed out in the manual for how to turn the ceiling assembly flange. This varies from model to model. 

Secure the bolts to the rooftop and make sure they’re tightly in place.Like with the assembly flange, this is going to depend on the model you’re using, with different brands having their own specifics about the process. 

If need be, use a bit of putty or adhesive to get the bolts and screws tightly in place. 

Step Six: Connect Electrical Components 

Head down from the roof and back into the RV. Connect the wire and the line inside the ceiling assembly junction box. They’re usually color coded, which will make it much easier to match them to the correct connectors. 

The new AC will include wire nuts that will also assist in finalizing the connections between each component. 

You shouldn’t have any exposed wiring when you’re finished, as everything should have been matched accordingly. If you do find that you have straggling wires, disconnect and start again, ensuring that you’re meeting each piece appropriately. 

To further fortify these connections, use a few rounds of electrical tape to hold everything together. 

As this is a step that uses electrical wiring, you might need to get the help of an electrician instead.  

Step Seven: Replace The Filter 

Now you can replace the filter cover. You can also attach the shroud back on the roof again to protect and guard the newly installed unit from debris. Fasten the shroud with screws, working in the reverse order that you started in. 

With that, once you’ve cleaned everything up and ensured that everything is back in place, you are done with your RV ducted air conditioner installation. 

Depending on if you own, lease, or rent your RV, you might need to consult your warranty first before you take part in such a detailed installation. Replacing the ducted AC in an RV could potentially void your warranty. 

Keeping Your RV Ducted Air Conditioner Working Smoothly 

After the installation of your RV air conditioner, you’ll want to make sure you give it the best chance to work well for as long as possible. After you spend so long toiling away to get it installed, the last thing you’ll want to do is install it again in two years. 

Thankfully, there are a few ways you can keep your AC running in top condition for years to come. Above, it was mentioned that you should always check the filter and the air return on a ducted AC model. There are a few more things you should keep in mind to preserve your unit. 

Mind The Condenser Coil 

One thing you can do to make sure your AC runs perfectly is to keep an eye on the condenser coil. If they’re pinched or blocked, they’ll fail to properly pump cold air into the cabin. The fans, ideally, should work to drive hot air out of the vehicle, not into it. 

If you need to clean the condenser coils, it’s a fairly worthwhile thing you can do to keep the AC cooling your ride for many sweltering summers to come. 

To Clean Your RV AC Condenser Coil 

• Disconnect from shore power or flip any breakers to ensure that 120 volt power is not connected to the unit at all. Kill the battery switch on it as well, if there is one. Basically, you want to completely power everything down. 
• Climb to the roof and remove the shroud, just as you did in the installation. 
• Remove the top condenser coil sheet metal support that’s at the top of the unit to get to the coils. Depending on your unit, you might need to move or unscrew other pieces until you get to where you can clean the coils. 
• Use a dry bristle brush and a shop vac to do a ‘dry’ cleaning first. This will loosen and remove any bigger bits of dust and debris. 
• Add a cleaning solution to the condenser coils and let it soak for a bit. Lay a towel or tarp down under it to catch any extra liquids. Make sure you keep water or liquid from entering the evaporator air intake hole. You’ll also want to make sure the water collection pan below the evaporator is clean. 
• Lower the tongue jack down and tilt the whole RV downhill. This is going to help the water run away from the air conditioner, instead of toward it and into the more sensitive parts. 
• Spray the coils with a water hose and let the water run away. It will clear out any extra dirt and all of the remaining soap. 
• Use an air compressor to blow out and dry the extra water. Give the compressor time to thoroughly dry before you put it back together again and finish up. 

A lot of RV owners don’t pay as much attention to the condenser cables as they should. It might have been a very long time since they last saw a bit of cleaning, but it’s important that they get this attention. You don’t have to do this super frequently. Once or twice a year will have a noticeable impact on how well the AC works. 

It’s best to do this when the weather is still cool, as you’ll be able to keep the AC off without getting too uncomfortably warm in its absence. Plan to do this in the late winter or spring, before it gets warm enough to crank up the air conditioning. You’ll be sure that the unit will keep working just as it should through the hottest months of the year. 

Keep It Cool 

Something else you can do to keep your RV AC in the best condition is to park in the shade. When the interior of the RV gets hotter, you’ll be reaching for the thermostat or AC controls more often to keep yourself cool. This leads to a harder working air conditioner unit- one that is going to break down much faster. 

When it gets hotter, the AC is exerting as much effort as it can. Keeping the temperature low help the interior cool down faster when you turn the unit on. Having it on for shorter periods of time is a lifesaver in terms of keeping up longevity. 

Another way to keep the inside cool is to use the windows to your advantage. In some places, a cool breeze coming in from an open window will help the room feel nice and cool without the need to run the AC. 

On the other hand, when the AC is running, be sure to keep the windows tightly closed. You don’t want to allow any of the cool air to escape. Instead, you want it to trap and build within the space of your AC so that it stays completely comfortable. This maximizes the cooling prowess of your ductwork air conditioning unit. It will keep working better for you longer. 

An unusual trick, but LED lights will have a small but worthy impact on how cool or hot your space gets. Fluorescent bulbs will heat the area up more, making the AC work a bit harder. In contrast, LED bulbs keep it just a few degrees cooler. 

Conclusion 

When you go through an RV ducted air conditioner installation, you’ll need to remove the outer shroud and the interior panel. That will give you access to more or less the central system. Once you’ve replaced the unit by lining it up with the previous hole, you’ll connect the wiring and re-seal everything. 

It’s a relatively simple process, one that you can get done in the better part of a day if you’ve set your mind to it. As long as you’re thorough and careful with everything, the ducted AC installation should go smoothly. 

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RV Air Conditioner 13.5K Quiet AC Unit with Remote Control, Ducted

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Description

Warranty information.

Camping in the summer months is a terrific way to spend your time. With the fresh air, the warm sun, and the cool breeze, you can really relax. But what if it becomes a bit uncomfortable. While we can't remove the sun from your campsite or keep the bugs away, we can definitely help with the heat problem. With our high quality air conditioners, you can stay comfortable throughout your trip. But what if you want more? What if you want to be able to keep your rig warmer in the winter? Or what if you want an air conditioner but don't want to deal with a loud noise or huge amp draw when you turn it on? Well, with this AC unit, you can have exactly that. With this model, you get an RV air conditioning unit that can operate at fewer amps, has less noise associated with its operation, and still has excellent temperature quality.

The ducted version of this model is in most ways the same as the non-ducted version. The outdoor unit measures 26 3/4" wide by 39 5/16" long by 13 11/16" high and the inner plenum unit measures 21 1/8" wide by 21 15/16" long by 1 11/16" high. This is a direct replacement for a 14" by 14" fan, which means that it is able to fit in the same space without making other adjustments. Available in black and white, this unit is ducted. It comes with removable screen filters that can be cleaned and replaced, which helps keep the unit working well for longer. The included remote control lets you control functions such as cooling, dry mode, sleep, and timing functions. The ultra low plenum design is also great, as it is sleek and streamlined. The functions can be displayed on both the remote and the plenum display. The chassis and canopy are made of a lightweight UV stabilized polypropylene material that helps it to withstand tough conditions. The low decibel readings mean you can enjoy your quiet time without fighting over the noise of your AC unit. This unit should be installed on a roof between 3" and 5 5/16" thick and is best installed on a flat roof.  This AC Unit comes with a preinstalled gasket.

Why choose this model? Well, the answers are simple and numerous.

• This isn't just a cheap rooftop AC unit. Unlike other models that are made of cheap plastic that has been molded to shape around the unit, these are made from high-quality, tough plastic built to withstand what life throws at it. In warmer climates, other models of air conditioning units can melt from the heat. Not this one. Built tough and built durable, this AC unit will last you through a good many adventures.
• The remote that is included with the model allows you to control the temperature and settings of the unit from the comfort of your couch. Are you worried that you'll lose it? We've thought of that, too. Along with the remote is a wall carrier for the remote. Simply place it in an easy to reach location and rest the remote in it. The digital display on the inner plenum unit of the air conditioner allows you to control it without the remote as well, just in case you really do lose the remote.
• There are many amazing features on this RV AC unit, however, one of the best ones is the dry mode. Dry mode runs the fan at a higher speed, cycling more air and allowing moisture to collect on the coils so you can enjoy cool, dry air.
• The second amazing feature to pay attention to is the temperature monitoring system. If you like to leave the AC unit on while you sleep, you can often wake up to a freezing room. Because our bodies are naturally cooler when we sleep, leaving on the air conditioner can make your morning feel like ice. To prevent this, the air conditioning unit has a temperature monitoring system that senses the temperature of the surrounding air and adjusts to accommodate whatever temperature you've set it to, keeping you comfortable even through the night.
• Most RV air conditioning units blow the air from the top unit through the space between them and out of the bottom unit without a tube to control the air. With the air moving around in the space between, it loses some of the temperature quality and cleanliness. With the directional tube in this model, the airflow is controlled to provide optimal temperature quality and cleanliness.
• The low amp draw on this model enables it to not only keep your energy use lower than other models, but it allows you to use more than just the AC unit at one time. For other models that have a higher amp draw, you have to think about how many appliances are on that circuit, as the circuit breaker can only handle so much. With the low amp draw of this model, however, you have more room for other appliances. Saving you power and frustration, it's definitely the best model for energy efficiency. Both the Startup and Maximum Amp Draw top out at 14Amps.
• Because of the directional air tube, the high-quality design, and the efficient cooling and temperature control system, this AC unit produces air that is of very high quality. Temperature and humidity-controlled for your desired environment, you can feel the difference with this model.
• Perhaps the most important feature of this air conditioning unit is the noise level. Many of the models that come with your RV are loud and a bit obnoxious. Even those that you replace it with can be loud enough for you to notice it. This model, however, only produces 59.7 decibels of sound when on high. For reference, that's about as loud as a gentle rain; not loud at all. With this low sound level, you can relax in your RV, have a conversation, or watch your movie, all without competing with the AC unit.

*This AC unit requires a minimum 2500-watt generator with a dedicated 30-amp service. Using a lower-rated generator may cause difficulty when starting the AC unit or may require a soft starter.*

*It is recommended to use a 3000-watt generator with a dedicated 30-amp service.*

This model is powerful and efficient. That doesn't mean that you can't do a few things to improve its performance even further, though. Make sure to close all doors and windows, just like you would in your stationary home. This will conserve energy and allow the AC unit to cool your rig down faster. Close the curtains and open the awning to keep the heat of the sun from warming up your rig. It's also a good idea to cook outside whenever possible, so that you don't end up heating your rig back up. While this next tip might not work for everyone, it's a good idea to turn off any unnecessary appliances so that your AC has more power available for use. You can also adjust the temperature settings on the AC unit at the cooler points of the day so that it doesn't have to work as hard as it would if you were to turn it off completely. You can also turn the temperature control up more in the beginning of the day so that your unit doesn't have to work as hard to cool your rig. You can also use more than one AC unit or a fan to increase the circulation, assisting in lowering the temperature while improving the general air quality inside of your RV.

Maintenance

Just like any other appliances, there are maintenance issues to consider. The most important part of this model is the return air filter. This part of the unit needs regular maintenance. To clean it, check the filter each week and wash it with warm water and a little detergent if it looks dirty. Make sure the filter is dry before replacing it. After the first three months, you should also check that the bolts holding the unit on are still stable. After this, these bolts should be checked once a year throughout the life of the unit. If you only use the unit occasionally, then it should be operated for about 20-30 minutes every six months.

For a powerful unit that's power-efficient and quiet, look no further than this unit. Have any questions? Contact us online or call our friendly Customer Care team today!

• Outdoor unit dimensions: 25 1/2"W x 39 1/2"L x 13 1/2"H
• Plenum (ceiling assembly) unit dimensions: 21"W x 22"L x 2 1/2"H
• Direct replacement for 14" x 14" fan
• Colors: black and white
• Come with removable screen filters that can be cleaned and replaced
• Remote control with cooling, dry mode, dry, sleep, and timing functions (stored inside AC unit display for protection during shipping)
• Ultra low plenum design and streamlined canopy design
• Easy to read LED display
• Easy to remove and clean air filter
• Lightweight UV stabilized polypropylene chassis and canopy able to withstand tough conditions
• Low amp draw allows for limited amps or generators in operation without addition of soft starter unit
• Temperature control for rooms up to 650 square feet
• Indoor High speed: 59.7
• Indoor Low speed: 55.4
• Outdoor: 71.9
• 2-year manufacturer warranty
• Maximum roof thickness is 5 5/16"
• Minimum roof thickness is 3"
• Best installed on a flat roof - less than 5 degrees inclination
• *Does not include a wall thermostat
• *Does not work with other brand wall thermostats
• *Will not control the furnace, only the air conditioning unit
• *Fan will run continuously

** If installed on a curved/mesa/grooved/otherwise not smooth and flat roof, you may need a frame or filler for the gaps as well as sealant. Any modifications to the AC unit itself will void the warranty **

**This AC Unit is not intended for marine use.**

** This AC Unit comes with a preinstalled gasket.**

Technical Data:

• Power supply: 115V/60Hz
• Refrigerant charged: R410A/470g
• Rated cooling capacity: 13500BTU/H
• Input needed for cooling: 1300W
• Rated current for cooling: 12Amp
• Maximum power input: 1550W
• Maximum Amp Draw: 14Amp
• Startup Amp Draw: 14Amp
• Energy Efficiency Rating (EER): 10.38
• Maximum design pressure: 550PSIG
• Minimum design pressure: 236PSIG
• CFM (high speed): 341
• Installed weight: approx. 73.7 pounds
• Recommended wire gauge: 12 AWG or larger
• Optional soft start capacitor available

Solar Power for RV Air Conditioner – How to Size RV Solar Power

Solitude? Check. Idyllic landscape? Check. But does your RV have enough solar power to run an air conditioner? Maybe not! The lack of a comfortable temperature inside your rig can ruin an otherwise perfect road trip.

While powering an air conditioner with solar energy is possible, the setup calls for many solar panels and a massive battery bank.

This blog post explains how to size solar power for an RV air conditioner and whether it’s worth investing in. You’ll also learn various RV powering options and alternative ways to cool your vehicle’s interior on the road.

So, without any further ado, let’s dive in.

How Much Solar Power Does an RV Air Conditioner Need?

The amount of solar energy you need to power an RV air conditioning unit depends on the BTU rating of the unit. BTU is an acronym for British Thermal Unit and refers to the cooling capacity of the RV air conditioning units. It’s a measure of the amount of heat that an AC can remove from an RV.

As a rule of thumb, an RV AC needs around 20 BTUs for each square foot of the RV space. But other factors like the RV height, window size, and parking location might call for additional cooling power. Most RVs, however, come standard with ratings between 11,000 to 15,000 BTUs.

Most air conditioning units with 15,000 BTU of cooling capacity require around 3,500 watts of solar power to start up and about 1,500 watts to keep running. Electric motors require more power to start than the power consumed during running. Thus, the solar system you are using for air conditioning should’ve more watts than the start watts needed by the AC.

Looking at the BTU rating of your AC, you can use the number to size your RV solar power system effectively.

Sizing Your Solar Setup for RV Air Conditioning

You must consider the AC BTU rating and the time you’ll want to run your air conditioner to size your solar system properly. The essential components to consider include:

Number of Solar Panels

The RV air conditioner and the solar array require contrasting environments to give optimal results. While the RV will most likely remain cool in the shade, the solar panels need direct sun exposure to produce electricity.

For a 13,500 BTU air conditioner that requires 2700 running watts, we recommend upwards of 3,000 watts of solar panels for smooth operation. If you’ve ample roof space on your RV, you could consider 16 x 200-watt monocrystalline RV solar panels to run the 13,500 BTU air conditioner. RV solar panels with larger wattage output should do the trick if you’re limited on space.

Size of Battery Bank

In addition to proper RV solar panel setup, you’ll also need the right battery bank size to run solar-powered AC at night or on cloudy days. Regarding RV battery banks, we usually recommend lithium batteries over lead acid since they are easy to maintain and can be used to their full potential. Lithium batteries are more expensive, but the longer lifespan and the deeper depth of discharge make up for the higher cost.

Knowing your daily amperage requirement is crucial before sizing your battery capacity . If your electrical panel has an LED monitor, you could turn on the AC and read the amps rating on the screen. Once you know the amps your AC pulls per hour, you can utilize this figure to determine the required battery capacity and start wiring solar panels to RV batteries .

If your RV AC unit pulls 150 amps per hour and runs it 4 hours daily, you will draw 600 amp hours (150 amps x 4 hours) from your solar battery bank. This is the minimum solar energy you need to power an RV air conditioning unit for four hours daily.

If your panels receive 6 hours of direct sunlight daily, they should generate at least 100 amps for each of those 6 hours to recharge the batteries. You can also use this number to determine your solar panels’ output wattage. Multiply the panels’ rated terminal voltage (usually 14.4v ) with the total amps, and you’ll get the total wattage required for running the air conditioner.

\(\textbf{Total Wattage = 14.4 volts * 100 amps = 1440 watt}\)

The calculation assumes you get six hours of full sunlight and don’t run appliances other than the RV air conditioner.

Choosing the Right Solar Power Inverter

A solar power inverter is the last piece of the puzzle in your RV air conditioning setup. It’s used to convert the DC power produced by the solar panel to AC power required to run an RV air conditioner.

There are various sizes and types of solar inverters , but if you want to run an RV AC with solar panels, you’ll need an inverter with a wattage higher than the starting wattage of the AC. This means if your AC’s starting wattage is 3,000 watts, you’d require an inverter capable of outputting around 4,000 watts so you don’t max out your inverter. We always recommend leaving as much room as possible for running other AC-powered appliances.

Since the running wattage of an AC is lower than the starting wattage, you could also consider using a Soft Starter with a smaller inverter to supply power to your AC (more on it in the next section).

Soft Start System

If you want to reduce the initial power requirements of the RV air conditioning unit, you can add an extra device called a ‘soft starter’ to the setup. A soft starter limits the initial inrush of current needed to start the AC. It does so by supplying a gentle ramp, resulting in a safer and smoother start-up.

Soft starter protects the AC motor against potential damage by minimizing the heating caused by frequent start-stops. It also lowers the cost of the solar power supply system by reducing the number of solar panels needed to generate the starting wattage.

Other Powering Options for Your RV

Although solar power has been everyone’s favorite since the last decade, it may not be an ideal choice for every RVer. Here are some more ways to power your RV for your travel expeditions.

Using the RV’s Battery

You can always pull power from the engine when traveling in an RV. There are two ways to do it:

• You can plug a 12-volt inverter into the cigarette lighter socket and supply power to your gadgets. Most inverters usually have several ports to charge AC and DC-powered appliances.
• You can also connect an inverter directly to the RV’s battery. When using this method, you must keep your engine running to keep your battery from dying.

Using Shore Power

Most RV campsites offer shore power for a fee. You can use shore power to directly run your appliances like TV, microwave, and refrigerator or recharge your batteries.

Using a Generator

You can also use a generator to power your RV. Depending on the size of your generator, it can offer enough power to run all your appliances, including TV, dishwasher, microwave, refrigerator, and even an RV AC unit.

If you’ve limited space in your RV, you might want to consider alternative generator options. They also produce harmful emissions, which aren’t good for you and the environment. Another drawback of using a generator is its smell and noise, which are generally disliked by fellow campers at campsites.

Note: Some campsites and regions like national parks do not allow diesel and gasoline generators. Therefore, we advise you to check that the region you’d be camping in allows generators.

Using an RV Alternator

An alternator is a generator that converts mechanical energy into alternating current. When running, the RV’s engine spins the alternator and charges the battery, which powers the electrical appliances. However, the alternator isn’t a reliable way of producing power since it quickly wears out with usage. Hence, it should be used only as a backup option.

RV Air Conditioning Options

RVers have little choice when choosing an RV AC because they usually come pre-installed in the rig. Manufacturers generally install them depending on the RV’s layout and price point. However, if you have the choice to pick an RV AC, here are some options you should consider:

Rooftop AC Unit

These are the most common types of RV air conditioners. Since they’re installed on the roof, they don’t take up space, which is quite limited in an RV. Rooftop ac units are reliable and can quickly cool off your rig’s interior.

Portable AC Unit

If your RV doesn’t have a rooftop AC, you can consider investing in a good portable ac unit. They are powerful, affordable, and easy to set up. The downside of a portable unit is that it takes up precious space in the RV.

Window AC Unit

You can also choose the traditional window AC to cool your rig. They are the least aesthetic and not as popular as other options among RVers. They take up precious window space and may require foam board insulation between the AC and window frame to prevent it from rattling when the rig moves.

Under-bunk AC Unit

Under-bunk AC units are installed under the beds, benches, or storage spaces within the RV. The air from under-bunk units can be circulated right to the corners of the RV through flexible ducting. These AC units have their own advantages but aren’t suitable for every application.

RV Insulation

RV insulation is an often overlooked aspect of RV setups. It traps the cold air inside the rig and keeps warm air out. RV insulation can significantly lower your AC consumption by keeping your rig’s interior cool for a long period of time.

There are several insulation options to consider, depending on the size of your RV and the amount of insulation you need. Each insulation option has an R-value  that refers to the material’s thermal resistance. A higher R-value indicates a higher resistance to the flow of heat.

Based on the R-value, here are the popular insulation options for RV:

• Fiberglass insulation
• Spray foam insulation
• Rigid foam insulation

These options can insulate the RV walls, windows, vents, and compartments.

Alternatives to RV Air Conditioners

Hot weather can be a challenge for RVers without an AC, but there are alternatives to keep your RV cool on the road. If you’ve limited roof space or budget, you can follow these tips to keep your vehicle’s interior cool.

Park in the Shade

The location where you park your RV can affect the temperature inside your RV—Park beside a shady tree or some other shelter to mitigate the impact of the sun.

Ventilation

Make sure you’ve enough ventilation in your vehicle. The goal is to pump warm air out and get fresh in the RV. Ceiling vent vans can help move the air around the RV.

Switch to LEDs

The halogen lamps that come standard in an RV emit much heat. Replacing these lamps with LEDs can greatly impact the RV’s interior temperature.

Use a Portable Air Cooler

Portable air coolers are lightweight and require minimal power to operate. They often come with dual voltage circuitry and can be powered using the RV’s DC cigarette lighter.

Final Thoughts

Running an RV air conditioner using solar power is absolutely possible. But it’s something that comes with a huge price tag. After reading this guide, you’re hopefully in a better position to determine the amount of power you’d need to run the air conditioning unit. And if you think using an AC with solar power isn’t worth the investment, you can use the alternative options to keep your RV cool.

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Why Won’t My RV Air Conditioner Turn On? Steps to Take

It might be a concern if your RV Air Conditioner compressor not coming on. When driving during the summer or in a hot climate, the temperature inside a car may rapidly rise to deadly levels.

In extreme heat, the inside of an automobile may reach 170 degrees . While your RV is unlikely to become as hot as a compact car, it may still reach temperatures high enough to make you sick.

Overheating may cause a variety of serious symptoms, particularly in the elderly. Heat exhaustion may occur while driving in an overheated car. Fatigue, nausea, dehydration, dizziness, fainting, cramps, headaches, and low blood pressure are all possible side effects.

As a result, it’s critical to fix a malfunctioning RV Air Conditioner as soon as feasible. It is the most effective technique to keep your car cool while also ensuring the safety of all passengers on the road.

Why your RV’s air conditioner won’t turn on?

The air conditioner in your RV might be broken for a variety of reasons.

1. System of Energy

One of the first things you should look at is the power system of your air conditioner . Keep in mind that your RV has a lot of electric appliances. Check that everything is connected properly and that the machine is receiving adequate power. If it doesn’t, a brownout might occur.

This indicates that the unit is only operating at a fraction of its capacity and is not cooling properly. A unit that is blowing hot or warm air might be a sign of this. Check the control panel to see whether your air conditioner is running short on electricity. AC units need a minimum of 120 volts to operate.

2. Problems with the wiring

Wiring faults might possibly be the reason of the unit’s failure. Faulty wires, loose connections, and stripped wires are the three most common wiring problems.

Wires that have shorted a circuit are known as faulty wires. It frequently occurs when there is a power outage. Damaged cables might not only create difficulties with your air conditioner, but they can also be deadly. It’s possible that they’ll catch fire.

The outcome of long-term usage is loose connections. They may shift or become loose with time, particularly in a moving vehicle such as an RV.

The covering on stripped wires has been pulled off, exposing the internal wire. Do not touch them since they are a fire danger and may cause electrocution.

3. Compressor or motor failure

The AC unit’s motor might get blocked, clogged, or damaged at any moment. You’ll need to open the cover of your air conditioner and peek inside to see what’s going on. The primary fan is generally where the motor is located. Look for corrosion, dirt, or a damaged element that might be preventing the motor from operating.

A defective compressor, on the other hand, is a little different. You may hear sounds coming from within your device or see leaks around the exterior if your compressor is malfunctioning. These are frequent symptoms of compressor difficulties and indicate that a new component may be required.

4. Thermostat Issues

The thermostat on an air conditioner might fail over time. That is to say, it loses sensitivity or becomes unable to precisely monitor temperature. Because it can no longer reliably gauge temperatures, it may “believe” it has reduced the temperature in your RV. It’s sometimes as easy as changing the thermostat batteries. Other times, you may need to seek the assistance of a professional repairman.

You can compare the temperature of the air your unit is taking in and the temperature of the air it is sending out with a few short tests. This will give you an indication of how well your thermostat is functioning.

5. Components that are filthy

Your RV air conditioner unit will gather dirt, dust, and debris over time. These may ultimately block the internal components, preventing them from functioning properly. The good news is that they’re easy to repair and don’t need any costly repairs or replacements. All you have to do now is clean the interior of your AC unit, and it should start operating again.

6. Low on Refrigerant for Cooling

A faulty air conditioner might sometimes be as easy as requiring a coolant refill. A unit that still turns on and blasts air but does not cool is usually the telltale symptom of this. Another clue that you’re short on coolant is if it takes a long time for your RV to cool down. Fortunately, there is a simple solution.

What is the Average Air Conditioner Life Expectancy in an RV?

The life expectancy of your RV’s air conditioner is determined by how often you use it and how far you drive. It should last between three and five years in most cases. However, depending on your needs and the model you have, this might be longer or shorter.

Read more: Can you run RV Air Conditioner on 30 AMP?

Maintaining Your RV Air Conditioner on a Regular Basis

The best way to prolong the life of your RV air conditioner is to maintain it. It’s straightforward and anybody can do it. Cleaning, maintaining filters, preventing ice formation, and replacing components are all examples of maintenance.

It’s simple to clean your air conditioner . To clean the inner components, just remove the outer cover and wash them off with soap and water. Unless you utilize disposable filters, the same goes for your filters.

Ice on your air conditioner may also cause damage and wear. When you detect it beginning to freeze, set the fan on high to prevent this. Ice occurs for a variety of causes, many of which are self-correcting.

The last step in RV maintenance is to examine your air conditioner a few times a year. Make sure there are no cracks, worn places, or debris both inside and outside your car.

In the end, should you repair or replace?

Many issues with air conditioners may be resolved with simple modifications or the replacement of specific components. Others, on the other hand, suggest that the unit should be replaced. If your air conditioner is often breaking down or has exposed wiring, it’s time to replace it for your comfort and safety.

Published on May 1, 2024

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Brinkley RV Opens New Plant for Model Z AIR Travel Trailers

Brinkley RV's Plant 3, which is dedicated to the company's Model Z AIR travel trailer line.

Continuing the impressive pace of expansion at its Goshen, Ind.-based campus, Brinkley RV on May 2 opened a third production plant, this one dedicated to the company’s new line of Model Z AIR travel trailers.

Known as Plant 3, the over 200,000-square-foot facility joins Plants 1 and 2, which are manufacturing Brinkley’s Model Z fifth-wheel and Model G toy hauler fifth-wheel lines, respectively. A lamination facility also is operational at the campus, which has construction well underway on various other facilities slated for production of future lines, company officials said.

The Model Z AIR line is Brinkley’s response to consumer demand for high-quality, feature-rich travel trailers. The line debuted with the 295 bunkhouse layout at the Florida RV SuperShow in January and was recently expanded with the 285, a couple’s coach.

The two-slide 285 features an island kitchen, versatile sleeper/dinette and desk in the rear living area and front bedroom offering a north-south queen bed, fireplace and wardrobe storage also accessible from the three-piece bathroom.

With an MSRP of $87,545, the 285 checks in at 33 feet, 11 inches long, 11 feet, 7 inches tall and a UVW of 9,242 pounds.

Like the 295, the 285 also features Brinkley’s signature elements such as CraftSense wood trim construction, dovetail drawer joints, flush-floor slides with through-frame slideout mechanisms, Euro frameless square windows with integrated window screens and insulated blackout blinds, and an automotive-grade sealant package, among other features.

Items unique to the Z AIR line include a composite floor atop a drop-frame chassis frame featuring over 100 cubic feet of exterior storage, one-touch leveling system, 5,600-pound axles, and E-rated Goodyear tires riding on 16-inch custom aluminum wheels.

Other Z AIR highlights include solid surface counters, 18K variable speed main AIR conditioner and a 13.5K second AC unit, tankless on-demand water heater, heated enclosed underbelly with electric waste valves, custom LP box with battery storage, premium utility center with retractable 65-foot water hose, industry-first brass plumbing connections, and an industry-first low-maintenance roof that offers a 370-watt solar panel and pre-wired for another panel.

Micah Staley – who along with brothers Ron and Bill Fenech as well as Nate Goldenberg and Ryan Thwaits – is one of five co-founders of Brinkley RV, told RVBusiness that the company is very pleased with the launch of the Model Z AIR brand.

“The response from our retail customers and dealers has been great. It’s a testament to what we’re doing as a company,” Staley said. “We are just focused on including the items that customers have said they wanted, and there’s been a lot of good feedback on social media. They’ve been delighted; they’ve liked what they’ve seen.”

He added that the 295 and 285 – with a third model that should be out later this summer – are “just the start of our trailer lineup.” He expects to add larger units more conducive to longer-stays, he said.

“We’re not going to have too many floorplans, probably six or eight, but we’re going to make sure that everyone has a specific purpose and we’re hitting a different buyer and trying to give the retail customers as much of an option as possible,” Staley said, who added that production is currently five units per day, with the expectation that the volume will increase to keep pace with demand.

“We will increase as much as we need to, but we’re going to make sure the quality stays tight,” Staley said. “And, so, we’re excited about this new plant moving into this brand-new facility. We’re excited about the brand. We’re excited about getting these guys in this building where there’s more space.”

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VIAIR 450P-RV - 45053 Tire Inflator Portable Air Compressor with RV Inflation Gun, 90 Degree Chuck | 12V Tire Pump Air Compressor Portable Heavy Duty 150 PSI, Any Tire Size, Alligator Clips

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• PORTABLE *AUTOMATIC* COMPRESSOR for RVs & TRAILERS (Model: 40047, 150 PSI, Any Tire Size) - Hit the open road with an ultra reliable 12V air compressor, boasting a 100% duty cycle. Designed for RVs, Travel Trailers, SUVs and Jeeps, its heavy-duty, gearless motor and maintenance-free operation are perfect for long-distance travel. Set your desired pressure and the compressor will shut off automatically when pressure reaches the set point. Compact and storable in its own carrying case.
• POWER YOUR JOURNEY: Versatile Air Compressor for RVs & More. The 450P-RV Portable RV Air Compressor is your go-to solution for inflating tires on RVs, towed vehicles, and bicycles (valve included). Crafted for the demands of the road, this robust 12V compressor boasts a gearless, heavy-duty motor and maintenance-free design. Its ultra-compact size and included carrying case make it a convenient, reliable companion for every adventure, ensuring you're prepared for any situation.
• RV-SPECIFIC COMPONENTS: 12V air compressor tire inflator has gas station-style inflation gun, 45-degree extended reach chuck (for dual rear wheels), 90-degree twist-on chuck, a 30 ft coiled air hose, 8 ft power cord, heavy duty carrying bag, 3 inflation tips, and Presta Valve Adapter for bikes. Unique Features: vibration-resistant diamond plate sand tray, thermal overload protector, and heavy duty battery clamps with inline fuse.
• HIGH CAPACITY SPECS for RV TIRES: Powered by 12 volts, this small but mighty electric air compressor with a permanent magnetic motor delivers a maximum working pressure of 150 PSI with a 100% duty cycle @ 100 PSI; Free flow capacity: 2.3 CFM. Maximum Recommended Tire Size: Any size RV tire. Fills a 275/80R22.5 tire from 80 to 90 PSI in 2 min. 47 sec. IP54 rating protects against dust and water spray from any direction. Dimensions: 10.87″L x 5.83″W x 7.48″H; 10.75 lbs.
• TRUST YOUR RIG TO VIAIR - Our offroad compressors offer you the freedom to explore further and challenge boundaries. For over 25 years, our American owned and operated company has provided top-quality portable air compressors & inflators. Our commitment to durability, continuous testing, and refinement results in long-lasting performance.

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The most trusted air compressor brand for 25 years.

VIAIR is a leading manufacturer of high-performance air compressors for mobile pneumatic applications. Founded in 1998, VIAIR offers a complete line of air compressors and air accessories for both the on and off-road markets.

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Does the engine need to be running to operate the compressor.

The compressor needs a constant 13.8 Volts for optimal performance, and that is only possible with the engine running.

What is duty-cycle?

It’s the maximum continuous run time of the compressor, expressed in % of 1 hour.

Is a direct-drive motor better than a gear-drive motor?

Direct-drive motors deliver power straight to the piston rod, it is quiet and reliable. Gear-driven motors have an extra layer of friction, creating a louder system that’s prone to rapid performance decline due to deteriorating gear teeth.

Product information

Technical details, additional information, warranty & support, videos for this product.

Click to play video

An Air Compressor For RVs and Trucks

VIAIR 450P- 45053 RV Automatic Portable Compressor Kit

Tanya McGuire

Years Later, It Has Only One Problem!

Alex & Rugar

Lets fill up some Tires (Let me show you how it works)

🟢 Any good?

VIAIR 450P-RV Automatic Portable Compressor Kit

LivingOurDreamNow

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Product guides and documents, product description.

Be prepared for tire emergencies with the VIAIR 450P-RV Automatic Portable Compressor, the ultimate automatic tire inflator kit that assures reliability whether you are embarking on a leisurely road trip or facing an unexpected flat tire. Tailored for RVs, but also capable of handling trucks, jeeps, and SUVs with tire sizes up to 42", this portable air pump ensures peace of mind during every road adventure. The automatic portable air compressor is ideal for tire-to-tire transitions or when you want to check pressure mid-inflation. By eliminating manual on-off switching and streamlining the inflation process, our air pump will help increase efficiency and help you get back on the road quickly. The kit comes with a close-ended gas station-style air gun for added convenience. The heavy-duty carry bag, included with the air compressor kit, enhances portability and stowability, ensuring no more scrambling during emergency situations.

The tire inflator kit operates on 12-volts, delivering up to 150 PSI maximum working pressure and a 100% duty cycle; the free flow capacity is 1.80 CFM. The automatic air compressor operates for up to 1 hour at a time before needing a rest. The engine needs to be running during use for seamless operation.

Top Brand: VIAIR

Compare with similar items, important information.

WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Customer reviews

Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.

To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.

Customers say

Customers like the size, portability, noise, performance, and ease of use of the air compressor. For example, they mention that it has long hoses, it's pretty portable, and it doesn't vibrate around at all. They appreciate the performance, saying that it works amazingly fast.

AI-generated from the text of customer reviews

Customers are satisfied with the performance of the air compressor. They mention that it works well, the hoses work well, and it is amazingly fast. They also appreciate the durable carrying case and that it pumps up the tire fast enough. They say that it is easy to set up and add air, and that the product works for the intended purpose.

"... GREAT EQUIPMENT .." Read more

"...It was quick and accurate.The hoses, and dual chuck and trigger with a gauge all appear well made. I'm glad I bought it." Read more

"I had my doubts but this little guy works great and is quiet, powerfull and easy to use." Read more

" Quick shipping and the product works for the intended purpose of keeping the tires inflated on a 40’ diesel pusher Class A RV...." Read more

Customers like the quality of the air compressor. They mention it has a durable build quality, works flawlessly, and has 0% duty cycle. Some say the case and the air pump are still in perfect condition. They also say it's powerful, quiet, and easy to use. Customers also say that it can run constantly without worry and is capable of 120 psi.

"I like it is so small and powerful , I have rv and F250 big tires and it airs them with no problem. GREAT EQUIPMENT.." Read more

"...The hoses, and dual chuck and trigger with a gauge all appear well made . I'm glad I bought it." Read more

"I like the compressor, the bag, the accessories and yes it’s capable of 120 psi ...." Read more

Customers find the air compressor easy to use. They mention it's convenient, easy to assemble, and has clear instructions. They also say it doesn't take long to set up and use, making it less tiresome. Customers also say the inflator and gauge are easy to read and put away. They say it makes traveling more fun and less stressful.

"Pricey but worth it. Super quiet, lightweight, and easy to use . I went back and forth about what air compressor to get for my Class A motor home...." Read more

"...doubts but this little guy works great and is quiet, powerfull and easy to use ." Read more

"...has the pressure gauge, air input & release all in one simple, easy to use device that can handle the pressures of a Class A RV tire..." Read more

"... Easy setup and fast inflation of each tire - couldn’t be happier about it. This unit lives up to its hype!" Read more

Customers find the air compressor portable. They say it fits in a convenient carry bag, is small enough to carry on a trip, and is compact enough for travel in an RV or pulling a trailer. Customers also say that the attachments and hoses are consolidated and compact while in storage. They mention that the long cables make it easy to move around.

"I like it is so small and powerful, I have rv and F250 big tires and it airs them with no problem. GREAT EQUIPMENT.." Read more

"Pricey but worth it. Super quiet, lightweight , and easy to use. I went back and forth about what air compressor to get for my Class A motor home...." Read more

"...It is compact and not real heavy. My motorhome is in the shop for routine maintenance right now, but I can’t wait to start using it." Read more

"...bag with pockets for the attachments and hoses, so everything is more consolidated and compact while in storage...." Read more

Customers are satisfied with the noise level of the air compressor. They mention that it is surprisingly quiet, doesn't vibrate around at all, and hums.

"...It's amazing how quiet it is . I hooked it up to a spare 12v battery and filled up a bicycle tire. It was quick and accurate...." Read more

"Pricey but worth it. Super quiet , lightweight, and easy to use. I went back and forth about what air compressor to get for my Class A motor home...." Read more

"I had my doubts but this little guy works great and is quiet , powerfull and easy to use." Read more

"... Not too loud and not too slow." Read more

Customers like the size of the air compressor. They say it has a 60-inch coiled hose and enough tubing to reach all tires. Some say the hose is long enough to reach large RV tires.

"Like the features and what it can do for a large vehicle !" Read more

"...It also comes in a bag with pockets for the attachments and hoses, so everything is more consolidated and compact while in storage...." Read more

"...The features such as auto shutoff are really convenient. It takes up more space than I like because it only has one bag to hold everything...." Read more

"...The bag has extra room for tire plugs , etc. Mine also came with 2 extra air filters for the pump...." Read more

Customers are mixed about the value of the air compressor. Some mention it's well worth the money, easy to store, and an excellent pump. However, others say it're pricey and a little spendy.

"...Worked flawlessly, durable build quality, worth the price for the speed to fill to 90 psi...." Read more

"...It is high quality and not cheap like some you see in some discount stores and gives you a "get to the tire store" back up as well as avoids..." Read more

"...I do not leave home without it. It is expensive but worth it . Get what you pay for...." Read more

"...When I’m done , it disappears into the back of the storage bin. Yes it’s pricey , but really only about $120 more than the other brand I was looking..." Read more

Customers are mixed about the pressure range of the air compressor. Some mention that it has a large pressure gauge, and high pressure, making it easy to maintain air pressure in trailer tires. However, others say that it won't build enough pressure to loosen tire lug nuts, and that the air pressure gage is off about 5 psi.

"...Again, this may cost a bit more, but I absolutely love that it has the pressure gauge , air input & release all in one simple, easy to use device..." Read more

"...the supplied air gun has a bleed off button which allows you to reduce air pressure easily if you over fill...." Read more

"...It did reach the full 60 feet. Air pressure gage is off about 5psi ...." Read more

"...The 450P was easy to set up, had all the gauges , parts and hoses I needed...." Read more

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New 2024 Forest River RV Sandpiper 3800RK

Forest River Sandpiper fifth wheel 3800RK highlights:

• Four Slides
• Theater Seating
• Exterior Cooktop
• Walk-In Bathroom Closet
• 17 Cu. Ft. 12V Refrigerator

If you're looking to go full-time RVing, this fifth wheel is packed with convenient features! The master bedroom includes a king bed slide out with USB ports on either side of the bed so you both can charge your phones, and there is a dresser for your folded clothes. You will love the front bathroom with dual bath sinks , a shower with a seat, plus a walk-in closet with shelves, rods to hand clothes, and baskets for laundry! There is a unique middle utility room  with washer and dryer prep and a rod to hang clothes that will make a perfect laundry room, or you can utilize this space for storage! Head to the main living area to relax on the theater seating or hide-a-bed sofa, and if you have guests stay over, they can sleep here. There is also an entertainment center with a 50" flat screen TV, but you might just leave that off if you're working at the desk with a chair that is provided. We've saved the best part for last; the kitchen! Here, you'll find ample counter space to prep home-cooked meals, a three burner high output range with a 22" oven, plus a large counter with barstools where you can enjoy breakfast at each morning. Choosing this fifth wheel is a no-brainer!

You will find the perfect balance of size, space, features, and luxury with any one of these Forest River Sandpiper fifth wheels! They are constructed with a welded aluminum framed vacuum bonded laminated superstructure , a cambered powder coated frame with rust prohibitor, and a fully enclosed underbelly to protect the units vitals during any season. The large tinted windows come with a 80/20 UV prohibitor or you can choose the optional dual pane windows. Some hassle-free amenities include a 60k BTU on-demand water heater , full coach water filter system, tire pressure monitor system, and an electric leveling system! Inside, you'll enjoy stainless steel appliances , solid surface countertops, upgraded raised panel cabinet doors, and rustic wood plank linoleum to name a few comforts!

Best price, Great experience! Just wish we were closer now! Nelson beat everyone's price on an XLR Nitro 28KW Toy Hauler! Chuck in Sales was great to deal with, very prompt returning calls and got all the answers to our questions! Finance was made easy and pleasant, as was the walk through when we picked up the trailer! We only wish we were closer so we could have our warrantee and upgrade work done by A.C. Nelson rather than the other Forest River dealer! ... More » - Jim from Mundelein, IL

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Customer Satisfaction is Our #1 Priority.

At Forest River, Inc., your needs, interests, budget, and lifestyle are at the forefront of everything we do. This affects every step from design, to the manufacturing floor, and on to you, our Customer. Whatever your need—recreation, transportation, or cargo hauling—we strive to bring quality products within reach of everyone. It’s not just a slogan: “Customer Satisfaction is Our #1 Priority.”

In 1996, Forest River founder Peter Liegl had a vision. He foresaw an RV company dedicated to helping people experience the joy of the outdoors by building better recreational vehicles. After purchasing certain assets of Cobra Industries, the Company started manufacturing pop-up tent campers, travel trailers, fifth wheels and park models. Continually growing, Forest River now operates multiple manufacturing facilities throughout the United States producing Class A, B and C motorhomes, travel trailers, fifth wheels, toy haulers, pop-up tent campers, truck campers, park model trailers, destination trailers, cargo trailers, commercial vehicles, buses, pontoons, and mobile restroom trailers.

Our large production capacity enables us to fill our customers' orders promptly without cutting corners or rushing through production procedures. This ensures that each Forest River product is conscientiously built and undergoes thorough, detailed inspection before it's shipped to the customer. This guarantees that every family who desires quality recreation will find a Forest River product that serves their needs, interests, budget, and lifestyle.

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4-Season, Off-Road, Off-Grid Camper Trailer: 2024 Imperial Outdoors XploreRV X195 Review

Overlanding in the dead of winter, surrounded by snow and rarely seeing the thermometer climb into double digits , probably seems counterintuitive to the majority of RVers who tend to seek out much warmer climes. But, if you're one of those adventuresome types who enjoys everything Mother Nature has to offer and embraces four-season off-grid outings, winter camping is both exciting and invigorating - if you have the right RV.

That's where an Imperial Outdoors XploreRV X195 travel trailer comes into play. This 26-foot RV is one of the best couples' overlanding-type trailers built for off-grid use and extreme weather conditions, winter and summer. 

In short: The 2024 Imperial Outdoors XploreRV X195 has a hefty price tag and requires a big vehicle to tow it. It’s also a premium all-weather camper trailer that offers up impressive comfort. It excels at extended off-road and off-grid travel because of its state-of-the-art suspension and robust solar and battery systems.

2024 Imperial Outdoors XploreRV X195

• Length  26'1"
• Weight (Empty)  5,500 lbs.
• GVWR (Loaded)  9,920 lbs.
• Suspension  Independent w/air
• Fresh water  60 gals.
• Gray water  60 gals.
• Sleeps  3
• MSRP  $143,000
• Highest R-values in RVs (R18.75 walls/roof, R15 floor)
• 21" of ground clearance to skid plates
• Air-adjustable independent suspension (±5")
• Heated enclosed underbelly
• Dry flush toilet
• Heavy-duty chassis w/articulating hitch
• Composite side, roof, and floor
• 60-gallon fresh/gray water tanks
• Big price tag puts it in the Premium category
• GVWR requires full-size pickup/SUV for towing

Bruce Smith

2024 Imperial Outdoors XploreRV X195 Review

The tandem-axle X195 is the product of Imperial Outdoors, owned by Nelson Industries . This Wisconsin-based company has built up a stellar reputation over decades of building custom ice-fishing houses. That expertise transferred nicely into the design and manufacturing of this rugged camp trailer - and its smaller single-axle, 21-foot twin, the XploreRV X145.

See my review of the XploreRV X145 .

XploreRV X195: Extreme Temps Rated

The X195 trailer’s body utilizes a one-piece composite roof, sides, and a floor that are nearly 3 inches thick, and that encase block foam built to withstand the rigors of extreme weather (120 to -40 degrees F). The walls and roof have an R18.75 value, while the floor is rated at R15. This design is the best insulation and heating system I've ever seen in a camp trailer of this size, a testament to its icehouse DNA. 

"We spent a lot of time designing this camper from what we learned in building high-end fish houses," says Steve Geary, Marketing Manager for Imperial Outdoors/Nelson Industries. "The block-insulated walls of our coach are almost three inches thick, so they really add to the ability to retain heat in the winter and cool in the summer.

My wife and I were amazed at how well this design kept the subfreezing temps at bay during one of our midwinter outings where the outside temps never got above 20 degrees.

The 14,300-BTU Truma Combi Eco Plus , which is both a furnace and tankless water heater, never struggled to keep the interior a cozy 72 degrees. It also made the shower water instantly hot, even when the outdoor temps hovered in the lower teens. It's an amazing piece of equipment, and so quiet you forget it's even turned on.

Windows Matter

"The one-piece composite floor and roof construction with lightweight acrylic thermopane windows (with nitrogen gas charge and built-in shades) also contribute to insulating against extreme weather conditions by reducing the opportunity for both heat and cold transfer," says Geary.

The thick window shades on the living area windows act as another level of insulation from the heat/cold of the outside, and the separate window screens let fresh air flow during warm weather without letting in pesky bugs. 

Another nice touch are the window locks in the living area that can be opened in varying degrees to cut down on the heater and A/C use. Each window has four locking latches that can be set to just crack the window open for a breath of air seeping by the seals to prevent condensation you'd get in the winter. Or, the latches can be rotated to allow the windows to open from one-third to full.

Bigger Is Better, in This Case

The 26-foot X195 is roomy and a much more comfortable setup for a couple or a family with one or two youngsters than its single-axle near-twin. The interior measures just over 19 feet long; it’s 6.5 feet wide with a ceiling height of 6 feet, 3 inches. The interior is built of composite materials and the upper cabinets have high-end latches, hinges, and support struts for the lid.

That extra 5 feet more of interior floor length than the X145 allows the use of a larger dinette/sofa to sleep a third person, and placing the full-size RV bed in front in a north-to-south orientation makes for easier access.

Across from the dinette is the galley. While the smaller X145 had a little fridge and single-burner cooktop, the X195 is much better equipped for multiday stays with a stacked 6.9-cubic-foot freezer/fridge and a dual-burner cooktop. It also has a slightly larger counter for improved prep space. 

Camper Trailer Bathroom Done Right

The bathroom in the XploreRV X195 is identical to that found in the smaller X145. It's bright and roomy for a trailer of this size. The shower easily accommodates 6-footers and has a sliding glass door to separate it from the rest of the bathroom. The sink is deep and the vanity is spacious.

When you check the specs, there's no black-water tank. That's because the XploreRV campers use the Laveo Dry Flush waterless toilet system, which is popular in the marine industry. It's a really sweet setup. We spent nearly 5 days camping off-grid and came to love the Laveo toilet for its simplicity and efficiency.

After a half-dozen or so uses of the toilet, sprinkling a little gelling agent after each deposit, the "flush" button is hit. The inside of the toilet spins around, sucks, and seals the waste that's been deposited in the shiny mylar bag, and then pulls the sealed waste downward leaving another clean, new silver bag from the replaceable cartridge in its place ready for use. Check out the process in this video .

Simple. No muss. No smell. And, no need for a black tank or an RV dump station. It's a really neat and sanitary setup for off-grid camping that negates the need for a black water tank.

Xplore X195 Trailer Offers Abundant Storage

One aspect that makes one expedition/overlanding trailer a step or two better than another is storage space - or lack thereof. The XploreRV X195 has a lot of storage in upper storage cabinets, big drawers beneath the counter, and a pull-out storage area for cookware beneath the induction cooktop. 

More interior storage is located underneath the seats at the dinette. They are large enough to keep extra bedding, backpacks , clothing, or other bulky items out of sight but within easy access. 

Outside there's an abundance of cargo brackets, grid panels, utility boxes, and accessories to bring along everything from a Hi-Lift jack and Jerry cans to mountain bikes and kayaks.

Abundant Off-Grid Electrical Power

One of the many features of the XploreRV X195 that I liked was the camper's healthy 12V GoPower solar and Expion360 LifeP04 lithium-ion battery system.

The demo model reviewed was outfitted with the optional Stage 3 three-battery (1,080aH) package and Stage 3 (1,240W) solar roof panel kit. It also had the 2,000W inverter with a monitoring panel. Upgrading the XploreRV's standard solar panel/lithium batteries to higher levels is recommended for anyone planning extended off-grid camping trips and who doesn’t want to power up a gas-powered generator. 

My wife and I spent 5 days camping off-the-grid relying only on the solar battery system under several days of overcast skies. We used the cooktop multiple times each day, kept the interior and exterior LED lights on late into the night, ran the furnace and water pump, and were still left with more than 40% power when we headed back into civilization.

Independent-Axle With Air Suspension

When it comes to towing, the XploreRV X195 (and little brother X145) sits atop a powder-coated, heavy-duty boxed-steel frame.

The trailer is also fitted with a Cruisemaster ATX Off-Road Independent Air Suspension imported from Australia. The adjustable air suspension allows up to ±5 inches of adjustment per side. At full lift, it provides 21 inches of clearance between the ground and the steel skid plates.

The skids protect the 60-gallon fresh water and gray water tanks mounted in the enclosed and heated underbelly. The plumbing and wiring of the X195 is routed well above the frame, as well. This gives those critical parts excellent protection from damage that can be caused by encounters with rocks and other large obstructions.

Also of interest to those camping way off the grid, the X195 rides on 33-inch mud-terrain tires with heavy-duty disc brakes.

XploreRV X195: A Smooth Tow

In addition to everything else under the X195 body, the frame is fitted with a Cruisemaster DO45 Plus articulating hitch that allows the trailer to swivel, pivot, and rotate separately from the tow vehicle. Most newcomers to off-road/expedition-style camping rarely consider the importance of the hitch. A standard ball-mount receiver hitch transmits a lot of jerking motion into the cab. 

The DO45 Plus hitch design greatly reduces trailer movement into the tow vehicle because it swivels and rotates with the trailer's movement, softening the tow. A DO45 Plus hitch also provides a stronger, more secure hitching system than the traditional ball-mount. 

We towed the 5,500-pound (unloaded weight) X195 behind a 2022 Ford F-250 Super Duty 4×4 over more than 50 miles of rutted, single-track, sometimes rocky snow-covered backroads in Oregon's high desert. Never once did the trailer have an adverse affect on our ride quality or comfort.

Imperial Outdoors XploreRV X195 Review: Final Thoughts

Imperial Outdoors XploreRV X195 is a stoutly built, top-tier towable. It should hold up well through decades of challenging, overlanding/expedition-style four-season use, delivering a comfortable camping experience regardless of the season or location. 

The downside for the average outdoor enthusiast is the XploreRV X195 is also in the rarified air in cost of top-tier expedition-style towables, with a starting price of $143,000. Its price is surpassed only by the line of Australian-made tandem-axle Bruder expedition trailers. But even those don't compare when it comes to keeping the occupants comfy when temps go to the extremes of summer and winter.

Find your local Imperial Outdoors dealer and dive into the specs of the XploreRV X195 camper trailer even further.

Self-Propelled and Remote-Controlled Luxury Travel Trailer: Meet the 2025 Bowlus Rivet

With an unmistakable design the Rivet camper trailer carries the Bowlus name into new territory. While still full of luxury, this trailer drops the price of entry, enables off-road excursions, and even has a self-propulsion system on offer. Read more…

The 10 Best Camper Trailers of 2023

From solo travelers to couples, families, and groups, here are the most reliable, enjoyable camper trailers for road trips and overland adventures. Read more…

The post 4-Season, Off-Road, Off-Grid Camper Trailer: 2024 Imperial Outdoors XploreRV X195 Review appeared first on GearJunkie .

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