dodge journey passive entry not working

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Passive Entry Not Working? Any help appreciated.

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Hey all, this may have been answered previously but I can't seem to find it. I recently purchased a 2020 Durango rt and have not been able to get the passive entry to work. I've checked within the uconnect system and it is set up to allow for passive entry. I come here looking for tips and tricks to avoid a trip to the dealership!  

so its not unlocking when you touch the door handle?  

Thats correct, doesn't open when I grab the handle. It also does not allow me to press the button on the handle to lock it. It's really not a big deal, more a nuisance than anything.  

batteries are good in the key fob?  

theres only a few things that cause the passive to not work..1 is dead key fob battery and 2nd would be a problem with either the antennas or the RFH hub...you may need to get a scan to see what module isnt responding.  

Hi Theantwon, Sorry to hear you are experiencing this, we certainly understand why this would be concerning. If you end up addressing this with your local Dodge dealer, please let us know via PM. We'd be more than happy to provide you with an additional layer of assistance for that process. Rob Dodge Cares  

Hi there! I was wondering if you were able to figure out what happened or what you did to get it fixed. I’m having the same problem and it’s a bit inconvenient for me as I have kids and hate having to look for my keys when trying to open door. I have had my car for 4 years now so I’m very used to just unlocking my car without having to use the fob  

FYI: If your FOB is near your cell phone it won't work. I noticed this especially if the phone and FOB are in the same pocket.  

Yep, this gets me everytime.  

Hey did you get this issue resolved? I recently purchased a 2021 Durango rt and mine suddenly stopped working  

I found some info on this, it’s a very common issue…the back floor panel when you lift the tailgate…right next to weather strip. It pops off no tools needed. After you get it off, there is a little connector about center of the floor under the plastic…mine was broke in my 2020, never had the panels been removed or any damage to the area. But sure enough mine was broke off, 2 little pins were exposed. Mine broke from base where it plugged in, I bent wires back straight, popped green clip on connector and pulled the broke piece off. Plugged it in and now everything works fine…trying to find out what part it is…  

That fixed it! Thank you for sharing. Looked like the dealership had unplugged mine for some reason?  

Here is a pic I got from my research explains what I was saying…  

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Thank you so much! This worked for me. I just had the car serviced and I think they unplugged it and forgot to plug it back in.  

wow mine has not work in years but sure as day it was unplugged and works now thanks for the tip  

Exactly what J5K said. Mine wasn't working till I plugged in the little green wire and viola. Everything works as it should.  

I just bought a 2020 a couple of weeks ago and the door handle wasn’t locking or unlocking the doors. I found this information here very useful. Thank you people for posting this. I took the cover off of the back floor board, found the wire was unplugged, plugged it in like it was supposed to be and BAM! It started working like it was supposed to. I think the official wire plugger inner wasn’t doing his/her job at the factory when this car was made!  

I am having the se.issue. My wire wasn't connected, I reconnected it and still nothing. Now this is a 2013 and I've had it almost 2 years now. It's never worked. The push button was taken out as well. It's not the original keep fob either as the hard key is not keyed for my doors. Do I need to program the fob to the car to be able to use the passive maybe?  

Yes, it has to be programmed to the car but if you can start the car with it then it's already programmed. The push button on the door handle was "removed"? You'll have to replace the handle too. Does the passive work on the passenger side?  

No the push start button was removed as per the dealership. The lock button on the handle is there and in tact. The fob works great. It remote starts the car as well as key starts, locks and unlocks doors as well as opens rear hatch.  

Your dealer screwed you then. Why did they change the start button to a keyswitch? I didn't know that could even be done. They may have had a bad start module and not wanted to change it. The proximity handles should work if everything else on the fob works. Maybe the handles need to be replaced as I believe I've heard they were iffy on the early Gen 3s and a newer version could be installed.  

Well the dealership I got it from I'm sure did. The dodge dealership said it should have the push button. I'm goong to check the rest of the sensors in the doors and see if that's the issue. Could be the win module too. It's not that big of a deal. I'm going to be goong back to the push button start as well so it can all wait. I was just hoping to see if anyone had any other ideas.  

I have the same issue. Just got a '12 Crew. I put in fresh batteries so I know the remote works. Lock/unlock and Remote Start works. Haven't tried the Power hatch on the fob yet. I have noticed when walking up to grab the handle it doesn't work, nor when I exit and press the button to lock no response. Gonna try the plug in the back to see if that fixes it.  

I ended up getting it to work by connecting the plug in the back back in it's socket. Less than 5 minutes total  

Thank you to the person who posted pictures and explained how to fix! Last year my rear hatch button to open and close the hatch stopped working and I brought it to Dodge. They diagnosed the problem as the body control module not working. I didn't want to repair it as I didn't think they were right (which turned out that it was not) and my keyless entry stopped working after I left the dealership/ They blamed it on on needing a body control module. I found this thread and I fixed it! Thank you! Now I just need to fix the original problem.  

Our 23 RT passive entry isn’t working either. And, when I use the door lock switch, it honks 3X and unlocks its self. I’m thinking it’s related. I’ll dig into in tomorrow morning.  

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• Electrical, Battery & Charging

2016 journey, power window problems

• windows buttons not working

By bynarie March 20 in Electrical, Battery & Charging

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Occasionally the power windows seem to stop working for a day or so but then they will start working again. What happens is that the windows will not go up or down, but you will hear the clicking noise like they are trying to move.. All 4 windows are affected. All 4 switches stop working at the same time and then start working again at the same time. So I'm guessing its not a motor issue. But is there any 1 component that would affect all 4 windows and switches at the same time? Thanks

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In the interior fuse panel is a 25 amp  circuit breaker. It feeds all the power windows.

There is another 25 amp circuit breaker  near it. For power seats.

You could switch them and see what happens.

It's up underneath the glove box. 

Shot in the dark, are you aware of the window lockout switch on the drivers switch panel? Try engaging it both ways

to see if it affects an ything. 

On 3/20/2024 at 2:18 PM, bynarie said: Occasionally the power windows seem to stop working for a day or so but then they will start working again. What happens is that the windows will not go up or down, but you will hear the clicking noise like they are trying to move.. All 4 windows are affected. All 4 switches stop working at the same time and then start working again at the same time. So I'm guessing its not a motor issue. But is there any 1 component that would affect all 4 windows and switches at the same time? Thanks

question ,,,,is it each window doing it with their door  button? or are you saying it is happening from the drivers door control buttons? there has been a wiring problem that is in the lower drivers door jamb that the wires are breaking / or shorting out 

A broken wire in the harness can cause strange issues as they can occasionally make contact and work...

I had to replace the harness  

• DJC16 and 2late4u

On 3/23/2024 at 10:30 AM, larryl said: A broken wire in the harness can cause strange issues as they can occasionally make contact and work... I had to replace the harness  

What I have seen in comparing the strand count on wires of the same gauge, across a span of 47 years (my 1946 Plymouth compared to a 93 Chrysler T&C) is that they used a much higher strand count wire on the older car, when compared to the later model one.  More strands = greater ability to withstand repeated flexing.  And about the only place where there was more or less constant flexing on the old car was in the engine harness.  Incidentally, however, that's also where I saw the most wire failure in the 93. I would have expected to find it in the door to body harnesses.  But come to think of it, I'm not sure I did a strand count on those wires on the 93.  Should do that sometime, because they just may have used high strand count wire in those constant flex areas.

• 1 month later...

Hello, new here and was hoping for some help.

I haven't had power or control from the drivers door for a few months now, hoping for any suggestions. I've taken the door panel off and checked the wires there and in the hinge as best as as I can and do not see anything out of the ordinary. I checked and even replaced my drivers door fuse and still nothing. It all started when I replaced the switch as one of the buttons completely broke off.  Bought a new switch and everything worked fine but after 2 days there was no power to the drivers door switch. Cant control any windows, locks or mirrors and no light coming from under the switch. I even plugged the old switch with the broken button to see if it would light up as it did previously but nothing, no light coming from new or old switch.  Also prior to replacing the switch and not having any power to the door, the passive entry hasn't worked on the drivers side but works fine on the passenger side. Not sure if the 2 issues are related. My vehicle is as 2015 Dodge Journey SXT 3.6L 

Thanks in advance

55 minutes ago, CanadaZ said: Hello, new here and was hoping for some help.   I haven't had power or control from the drivers door for a few months now, hoping for any suggestions. I've taken the door panel off and checked the wires there and in the hinge as best as as I can and do not see anything out of the ordinary. I checked and even replaced my drivers door fuse and still nothing. It all started when I replaced the switch as one of the buttons completely broke off.  Bought a new switch and everything worked fine but after 2 days there was no power to the drivers door switch. Cant control any windows, locks or mirrors and no light coming from under the switch. I even plugged the old switch with the broken button to see if it would light up as it did previously but nothing, no light coming from new or old switch.  Also prior to replacing the switch and not having any power to the door, the passive entry hasn't worked on the drivers side but works fine on the passenger side. Not sure if the 2 issues are related. My vehicle is as 2015 Dodge Journey SXT 3.6L    Thanks in advance

Welcome to the forum! But you should have made your own thread of your problem, less confusion that way.

I would go back into the rubber boot between the door and body of the car and recheck for broken wires in there. As passive entry,locks and windows all run through there, and a common problem on all cars with power features, as the drivers door gets the vast majority of use thus flexing the wires inside that rubber boot. YES it's not the easiest place to get at!!!

strange his entire post looks like it has been copied and pasted due to the slight dark color around all the words..looks like we are getting a lot of weird post here all of a sudden

• larryl and jkeaton

13 hours ago, 2late4u said: strange his entire post looks like it has been copied and pasted due to the slight dark color around all the words..looks like we are getting a lot of weird post here all of a sudden

Probably posting across multiple forums and facebook. Easier to write once then copy everywhere else.  🤷‍♂️

John/Horace

Checking the wires visually is useful but you didn’t always see wires that are broken off completely.

Automotive wire is usually multi strand copper wire. Three quarters of the 50 ish strands  might be broken so instead of battery voltage some wires may only carry 5-6 volts…or not enough amps.  To function properly.

You could take the rubber boot and gently flex the wires a bit with the door open. Then try cycling stuff. If it works momentarily you have found some partially broken wires. Another way is to use a multi meter and measure actual voltage and continuity (broken grounds without power can also disable stuff) on all the wires in the door loom. You could also buy a complete new driver door wire harness. Probably not cheap.

• larryl and 5rebel9

48 minutes ago, John/Horace said: Checking the wires visually is useful but you didn’t always see wires that are broken off completely. Automotive wire is usually multi strand copper wire. Three quarters of the 50 ish strands  might be broken so instead of battery voltage some wires may only carry 5-6 volts…or not enough amps.  To function properly.   You could take the rubber boot and gently flex the wires a bit with the door open. Then try cycling stuff. If it works momentarily you have found some partially broken wires. Another way is to use a multi meter and measure actual voltage and continuity (broken grounds without power can also disable stuff) on all the wires in the door loom. You could also buy a complete new driver door wire harness. Probably not cheap.

As I had posted, the wires inside that boot are a problem area on all cars, EVEN my "flagship" model for Buick {Lucerne} had broken wires for the drivers door window on it. Not much working room there, but the most likely place to start checking!

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• Dodge Charger Discussion
• Audio - Alarms - Navigation - Electronics

Passive antenna location

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Hi all! I've been having trouble with my keyless Enter N Go system for months now and it is driving me crazy. The keys and locks are working fine, I can open and close the Dodge as normal, just the keyless enter n go is not working. I have read the system and get an error (Passive Entry Antenna 5 Open Circuit). I have replaced the antenna in the trunk (near the spare tire), no change. I have checked the RF Hub and it seams to be working fine. When I disconnect the cable to the antenna's I get errors from all 5. I cannot find where all the 5 antenna's are in the Charger and where antenna 5 is. Can anyone help me out? Much appreciated! Gerwin  

There is a antenna typically located in the Center console area.  

The five Low Frequency (LF) antenna locations: One is mounted on the underside of the center floor console, one on each rear door hardware module carrier (concealed behind the inside trim panel), one at the forward edge of the spare tire (in the trunk compartment) and one on the rear fascia bracket above the license plate tub (to the right of the license plate lamp and concealed behind the rear fascia). If you're getting "Passive Entry Antenna 5 Open Circuit" logged I assume it's code B1A75-13. The documentation I have does not have a map of which antenna is 1 ... 5, but #5 in a Durango is located at the rear tailgate. So I'm assuming #5 in the Dodge Charger is behind the rear fascia. .  

You're welcome. .  

Dude i swear you have been the most helpful person on this whole forum. I just picked up a 15 Charger Police Pursuit AWD and i have been non stop finding problems. So far i have not completely fixed any of the issues but your help on the diag has been amazing! I needed to find the sensor locations and you have done that for me i believe my bumper sensor is the one going out or having the problem as it appears the bumper was ran into something i will be taking it off later to find out.  

Glad to help when and where I can. I don't have any direct experience with AWD, Police Pursuit Chargers or the V6 engine ... so I tend to not get involved with those posts. Better to let the forum members who have the experience reply. But some systems in the Charger are common to all models and I'm glad to offer any value-add that I can in those posts. .  

I just assumed you had a FSM for everything laying around!  

I do have a few - OK - several FSM (Factory Service Manuals) but I don't have any experience with the AWD, V6 or Pursuit vehicles ... so I have nothing to add along with the FSM. Most of the FSM seems to be written by someone where English is not their native language. Sometimes it takes some experience and interpretation to figure out what they are trying to say. Now, if you're having problems with your 1994 Yamaha FZR1000 sportbike we can chat. .  

Not to mention service manuals now mainly only tell you how to remove parts and talk about the scan tool and programming for everything else. Gone are the days of those nice flow charts that actually helped you quickly diagnose stuff. One of my shelves of manuals is much like yours. Same color too..  

I noticed that in some pictures of the FSM for the LD body! Perhaps that is why I don't want to drop the money for one. I like having good info to do work with. Gimme hard data not use scan tool this and scan tool that.  

Yep. I bought the manual set for my 2004 ram and only used them once. I could have spent that money a lot better.  

most of them won't answer any questions like if the electrical diagrams come with it Click to expand...

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Have you installed any LED bulbs inside your vehicle? FCA STELLANTIS has put out a repair memo that If there is aftermarket leds it will interfere with the key fob. What my 2016 300 is doing is outside the vehicle my key fob works perfectly! But when I enter the car it CANNOT find the fob an I have to put the fob next to the start button for it to find it. What the service manager told me is that LED bulbs mess with the CAN BUS system an also give off radio frequency that interfere with the remote function. Hope this helps.  

I like this comment , a young guy at work was skewing up AM Radio signal on my service truck , we were outside and just walking by he did turn the LED trouble light in his hands and we noticed the interference , and purposely try it more than once. Obviously LED lights have small modules built in . I thought it was only for 115 v reduction , but apparently not. A simple USB LED trouble light can interfere a bit. Now what are the frequencies ???  

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• 5th Generation (2019+) Ram 1500s
• 5th Gen Modifications/Accessories

Adding Passive Entry: How-to

• Thread starter MayhemMOORE
• Start date Jul 18, 2020

MayhemMOORE

• Jul 18, 2020

If you've seen the original thread on adding passive entry, HERE , you are likely well aware of the issues with getting it to work on the newer trucks that didn’t come with it from the factory. This thread will walk you through getting it to work on the 5th gen DT’s (and the HD trucks) just as it does in a factory-equipped truck, without requiring a visit to the dealer or the addition of the sales code to your VIN. The success of this has been a collective effort with contributions from many individuals and they all deserve thanks since a lot of time and effort went in to laying the groundwork for this, both on the 4th gens and the new 5th gens, as well as helping test and troubleshoot to make sure all aspects of the system functioned correctly before pushing this out. Standard disclaimer…If you are going to do this yourself, you are assuming all responsibility in the event something breaks or goes wrong. Also, any parts you add related to this are likely not going to be covered under warranty in the event there is a problem down the road. That being said, the whole process is fairly straightforward if you have basic mechanical abilities and a little patience for dealing with the door panels and wiring. Just be careful and take your time. Clicking links below will take you directly to the specific posts indicated: Post #1: Basic list of parts/tools required Post #2: Door panel and handle removal Post #3: Carrier plate removal Post #4: Making the BCM changes in AlfaOBD Post #5: 2019 & 2020 Rear Antenna Post #6: 2021 Rear Antenna Post #7: Part numbers for handles, caps, clips, terminals & connector housings Post #8: DIY Harnesses Post #9: How-to for the HD trucks Post #10: HD install continued The following lists out what you will need to get this accomplished on a 1500. The HD trucks utilize a one piece handle and already have the wiring in place for the rear antenna. Specific part numbers are listed in post #7, and I will update the list with additional items as needed. Factory PE Parts - Door handles for proximity entry x2 (handles are the same on both sides on the 1500) - Door Handle Cap, Right (specific to each side and passive entry as there is a magnet inside) - Door Handle Cap, Left (specific to each side and passive entry as there is a magnet inside) - Front Door Wiring, Right (must support passive entry, or you can just add the 2 wires needed utilizing info in this thread) - Front Door Wiring, Left (must support passive entry, or you can just add the 2 wires needed utilizing info in this thread) - Rear bumper passive entry antenna (The cheaper $8 antenna has been proven to work) - Rear Bumper wiring harness (must support passive entry, or you can just add the 2 wires needed utilizing info in this thread) AlfaOBD - Android tablet or Windows PC - AlfaOBD software for your tablet or PC - OBD interface (MX/MX+ is used by many, but there are cheaper options that work) - Security Gateway (SGW) bypass Tools: - Trim tools (not 100% necessary, but well worth it to not damage panels and/or clips. Plenty of options online or at most local parts stores) - The elusive 10mm socket and your choice of ratchet/driver (a short extension will be handy also) - 6mm socket for speakers (5mm for the HD) - T20 torx for the HD panels - T25 torx for the 1500 door handle cap (needs to be long enough to reach inside the hole in the door, about 4". May also be able to use a small flathead for this) - T27 torx for the door latch - Small flathead screwdriver (1/8) - Needle nose pliers - Tape (for holding up the window once it’s unbolted. Decide what you feel comfortable using) Important note: Passive entry will function with the addition of just the driver’s side handle (only activating from that handle obviously) and the settings configured in the BCM. However, if you choose to not add all pieces, fobik safe will not function as intended and it will trigger fault codes in the RF Hub. This means that there is a slight chance you could induce a condition that would allow the fob to be locked in the vehicle and will not be alerted. If you install both handles, and the 5th antenna, everything functions as intended and you will get an alert should you accidentally leave a fob inside the cab and attempt to lock the doors.  

You're the man! Thanks for doing this.  

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Bravo to you and @Jimmy07 for figuring this out. This is going to make a lot of people happy. This here is the reason these forums exist. Thanks guys!  

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• Jul 19, 2020

Has anyone thought of trying to splice in a rear handle to see if it work? Probably a long shot but the wiring diagram makes it appear the handle is just acting like a switch. Would love to have rear door Passive entry because half the time I open my rear door first to put my computer bag in the back. Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk  

Jimmy07 said: If anybody doesn’t want to spend the money for the entire door harnesses and rear facia harness, and doesn’t feel like building the add on harnesses with the parts, let me know and I can build them for you- Click to expand...

dts828 said: Has anyone thought of trying to splice in a rear handle to see if it work? Probably a long shot but the wiring diagram makes it appear the handle is just acting like a switch. Would love to have rear door Passive entry because half the time I open my rear door first to put my computer bag in the back. Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk Click to expand...

MayhemMOORE said: I’ve thought about doing it as well. But I find it easy enough to just reach in the front handle as I walk up to unlock all the doors. May look into it down the road though. Click to expand...

For anyone that orders the OEM parts and can confirm they work, if you PM me the part numbers, year and color of your truck, and any additional options you have from the factory in the doors, I will make one of the posts I have reserved dedicated to a list of confirmed part numbers for each color there is. This will help a lot of people out having a short list specific to each color rather than having to search it all.  

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Keyless entry not working

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The keyless entry functions on 2015 SXT Plus has quit working. I can lock/unlock the car with the buttons on the key fob but the buttons on the door handles don't lock it and grabbing the door handles doesn't unlock the car. I have a message the shows briefly on the dash display that says " Service keyless entry". Anybody else ever seen this condition?  

Its likely your fob's batteries are running low. Have you tried both fobs to see if the same condition exists. Anyway, the fobs use a single CR2032 disc battery and you remove the metal emergency key, split the case open (carefully) and change the battery. -snap the case by pressing along the sides/edges until completely snapped back together, then re-insert the metal key.  

Hal H said: Its likely your fob's batteries are running low. Click to expand...

Same problem with both fobs. Car was purchased only 9 weeks ago. Still under warranty but hoping someone might know a fix so I can save a trip to the stealer.  

easiest thing is to change the battery - if that solves the issue, that was the problem. Often the fobs can be kept inside the car @ dealership - this allows constant communication fobs < - > vehicle and the the batteries (fob) wear out quickly.  

Mine started doing the same. I guess all these proximity key features cause the batteries to drain so quick.  

If it's not the battery, try cleaning and drying under both door handles. It may do that if there's debris or something under the handle and it's constantly detecting "fingers" under the handle. Mike  

My 2011 Charger did the same thing except it was the wiring that operated the passive entry. Dodges are notorious for this problem.  

I still think my first check would be the door handles. Make sure the buttons on the top are not stuck down. Make sure there is no debris under the handle (sometimes some fiber from a wash mitt or something like that can get stuck under there). Clean under both handles and maybe take an air blower if you have one and blow up under the door handles to make sure they are dry. If any water has gotten in under the handle, it could emulate fingers being on the pad under there. When you put your fingers under the handle, the car sends a signal to the fob, forcing the fob to reply. Something must be interrupting that process. Mike  

Well, only my drivers side is not working. You should be able to walk up to your door, put your thumb on the button and the lock unlocks. My passenger side works. Mine is not the key fob. I tried both and still the drivers door doesn't unlock, but the passenger does. Will have to ake in during my Christmas break.  

What did this end up being? My daughter just picked up a nice used 2012 last week and it's started doing this same thing where the passenger door works, but not drivers side. Replaced the fob battery and it's still a no-go. Can you point me in the right direction?  

I disabled that feature.......I hate it, and it didn't always work. I am old-school. In fact, I miss the keyed ignition. All this tech stuff is over-kill.  

All of it also makes it easier to steal because the thieves can copy the fob signal. Our local Dodge dealer has had 6 brand new Dodge trucks stolen that way. They simply go back, and drive it off the lot.  

My 2019 Challenger was involved in a accident few weeks ago and was hit in the passenger side door. The door was replaced, I went to pick my car up today and now the keyless entry by rubbing under the door handle feature is not working on both driver and passenger, even though passenger door was the only door replaced and collision repair shop seems to have no idea what may be the issue.. Does anyone know how to fix this issue??  

Hey i have a 2019 challenger and my driver side door was hit and I am having the same issue. Did you find the solution for it. Thanks  

Chrysler's great electrical.........not.. Its not your batteries. This is a common issue. Your keyless entry controlmodule is bad. Try and order one and they may be on back order because almost everyone with the earlier year challengers have this issue eventually.  

Did you ever find a solution? This has been happening to me but only one the driver side door passenger and trunk work perfect.  

Hi Torres6161, Sorry to hear you are experiencing this. We understand you are reaching out to fellow forum members, however if you are not able to remedy this concern with the advice provided here; we kindly recommend connecting with your local Dodge dealer. If you are in need of any assistance with that process, our team is available via private message. Rob Dodge Cares  

Maybe it had been turned off. RWL11 2020 SP WB.  

I have a 2019 sxt challenger that I bought brand new off the lot. I HAVE CHANGED THE BATTERIES IN THE KEY FOB and the car battery is fine. My trunk button doesn't work on my fob or my trunk. And MY CAR LOCKED WITH THE FOB INSIDE WHILE IT WAS RUNNING! what the ****! Furthermore, a 14 lbs rock will not break the drivers side window.  

LadySpades89 said: I have a 2019 sxt challenger that I bought brand new off the lot. I HAVE CHANGED THE BATTERIES IN THE KEY FOB and the car battery is fine. My trunk button doesn't work on my fob or my trunk. And MY CAR LOCKED WITH THE FOB INSIDE WHILE IT WAS RUNNING! what the ****! Furthermore, a 14 lbs rock will not break the drivers side window. Click to expand...

I had the audio system upgraded in my 2014 Redline Sxt and now the keyless entry doesn't work. I followed instructions on this thread and others to change the key fob battery, of which I did; and to clean under the handles, of which I did... neither worked to fix my issue. The buttons work just fine to lock and unlock the car; as well as to start it manually. But the keyless entry and push to start does not. Does anyone know what the installers could of possibly done to mess this up? It's driving me crazy!  

Im having the same issue in my 2014 dodge redline sxt. Had an audio system installed and now the keyless entry and push to start won't work. The unlock and lock buttons on my fob work just fine. Just the handle sensor unlock and push to start don't. And yes, I've changed my key fob battery just in case. No luck. Did any one ever find a solution??  

Looks like nobody ever did. 😅 Everyone posts the issue they have but never say if they fixed it or not. Mine is the drivers side only keyless entry not working (including the lock button on the top of the handle) so i’ll probably look into it soon. I saw a youtube video of a dude doing weight reduction removing his seats including the rear deck panel exposing the speakers and somewhere there, the module in relation to the keyless entry and go was there. If cleaning under the handle and using compressed air to see if maybe moisture is trapped inside somewhere fails, then i’ll check that module next. It’s raining on and off in southern california atm and I don’t have a garage but i’ll report back as soon as I figure it out.  

I don't believe thieves can copy a fob signal, only relay and amplify it. I won't be surprised if someone doesn't manage to do so at some point though A Guy  

If its just one door, and it happens randomly. One day it works, maybe just on the way to work, and then randomly stops, no rain or anything, and you know its clean, and your FOB battery is fine (other door works, and even if you put the fob right up to the non working door, keyless and handle lock button doesnt work), its gonna be a wiring issue or a faulty sensor. The keyless entry warning on the dash wont pop up unless its been off the CAN (your car's LAN network basically) consistently. In other words, if its coming back online the next day it wont trigger it. This is extremely common on the 2015 and up models. Its hard even for the dealer to diagnose because they cant see a fault if it decides to work when its there. So just getting it fixed is a challenge. They'll say nothing it wrong. You need to clairify that its intermitent and they need to investigate. Youre looking at 1-2 hours of labor assuming its not some crazy wiring gremlin. The sensors themselves run about 35$. But you can be sure itll cost more at a dealership or another shop. Markups are a thing, and be careful bringing your own if its not a Dodge dealer because they will often tack on an extra fee to try and get that markup out of you anyway. If you're tech and mechanically savvy, you may be best doing it yourself. Panel removal is pretty easy. Just watch out for the door lock. Its a braided cable and it can be tricky because the panel has to be free before you can get to it. Dont let it hang there. Get a buddy to hold it up. Also watch out for the black weather stripping sheet behind it. They rip easily. Use a razor to cut the adhesive. Carefully. Cut in the middle. Then when you put it back up, it will stick to itself again. Its some strange kind of silicone adhesive that stays soft and sticky. As for the wiring. Good luck. Bring a voltmeter. Check the connector and connector pins first, check crimps, etc. Its usually the connectors somewhere if its not the sensor itself. Id buy a sensor just to swap in even if its not that. It covers a base. And now you have a spare if the old one was indeed working. And you know its gonna go bad eventually anyway if you keep the car. These things are gonna be a nightmare in 20 years lol... Have spares on hand.  

Purchased a low mileage SRT8 IE about a month ago. The keyless entry was not working. There were three recalls that hadn't been done. One was the replacement of the door handles. Had the recalls done at my dealer last Monday and now my keyless entry works. Just wonder how long it will keep working.  

I'm surprised by everyone that's posted having this issue, but no one has responded with a legit fix. Our 2020 scat pack started having this issue I think after the dealer had to remove the windshield to replace the headliner. I will be taking it back to the dealer to fix the "passive entry" issue with the door handle sensors not working. Yes I've replaced batteries in both key fobs and disconnected battery and made sure the feature is turned on in settings on the dash display. I will reply with how the dealer fixes it.  

You had to have the headliner replaced on a 3 year old car? I would love to hear more about that.  

Yeah I actually ended up trying it in the trunk and car it worked by unlocking. Guess even with keyless entry off it will still prevent being locked out which is good to know. Not having keyless entry is annoying so maybe i'll just turn it off when i'm in a less safe area where i have to park for a long period or overnight  

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Proximity Passive Entry issue only on Driver Side

• Thread starter dr3amr2
• Start date Jan 9, 2023
• Jan 9, 2023

Anyone ran into this issue before? The proximity passive entry isn't working for either of my key fobs on the driver side, but the passenger side is working fine though. All the other functions on the key fobs like lock, unlock, remote start, etc are working fine though.  

Can you lock the door with the button on the drivers side handle? My suspicion would be for a faulty handle or connection to it if your passengers side and tailgate work fine.  

tvj2015 said: Can you lock the door with the button on the drivers side handle? My suspicion would be for a faulty handle or connection to it if your passengers side and tailgate work fine. Click to expand...

• Standing by driver's door, proximity doesn't seem to work. The button on the driver side handle doesn't trigger anything.
• Standing by passenger side door, proximity works and I'm able to unlock all the doors by pressing the button on the passenger door handle.
• Sitting inside truck, interior lock/unlock buttons works for both driver and passenger side.

shapiroeric

dr3amr2 said: Standing by passenger side door, proximity works and I'm able to unlock all the doors by pressing the button on the passenger door handle. Click to expand...

shapiroeric said: Interesting....on my truck I do not press the button to unlock the doors for passive entry.....I just grab the handle and they unlock.....to lock the doors I press the button.... Click to expand...

When you press the button it is actually locking the doors. You might not be noticing that because there is a sensor on inside of handle that unlocks doors when you slip your hand in there to open it. Regardless, if your button and the hand sensor aren't working then it is likely the handle or wiring to the handle itself. The lock/unlock buttons on the inside of the door are fed by a different branch of the main wiring. When you take the door handle (have to remove end cap first and then it slides out), you will see that there is wiring that clips in to the end of it.  

tvj2015 said: When you press the button it is actually locking the doors. You might not be noticing that because there is a sensor on inside of handle that unlocks doors when you slip your hand in there to open it. Regardless, if your button and the hand sensor aren't working then it is likely the handle or wiring to the handle itself. The lock/unlock buttons on the inside of the door are fed by a different branch of the main wiring. When you take the door handle (have to remove end cap first and then it slides out), you will see that there is wiring that clips in to the end of it. Click to expand...

• Jul 25, 2023

2023 exact same issue...anyone find a quick fix for it ? the little plug is connected to the handle and pass door works perfect  

TRX Fanatic

i know of other chrysler products with this issue was the piece in the door handle is backwards. you have to take it out and flip it. if i recall correctly there is a thread about it in the jeep gladiator forum  

• Jul 26, 2023

Thatguy34 said: i know of other chrysler products with this issue was the piece in the door handle is backwards. you have to take it out and flip it. if i recall correctly there is a thread about it in the jeep gladiator forum Click to expand...

I have had this issue on my 21 only flipped, it is my passenger side. I had fooled with it a few times and found nothing. Was going to get to the dealer one of these days, but since I never open from the passenger side it doesnt bother me. Been over a year  

Justinb491 said: I have had this issue on my 21 only flipped, it is my passenger side. I had fooled with it a few times and found nothing. Was going to get to the dealer one of these days, but since I never open from the passenger side it doesnt bother me. Been over a year Click to expand...

well swapped the handles, no change maybe the next "update" will cure it lol  

Sinister4 said: are we talking about the little magnet thing ? all wiring etc look perfect do you have a link to the thread ? Click to expand...

Well the magnet is in place and correct, harness all correct, bulkhead fitting pins all perfect so ill live with it till i can get it over to the dealer and he can scan it, or next update fixes it switched driver and pass handles, no change pass works with driver handle. yuck  

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Proximity Entry not working

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So the proximity lock/unlock is not working on the driver's side of my 2013 Limited. Just started a couple days ago. Passenger side works, truck works, start works, etc. Buttons on the fob works. Just not the driver's side handle. So, that said, before I take it to a dealer and find out it's going to cost too much out of warranty to fix (because it ALWAYS costs too much), can anyone tell me how to get to the antennae? I'm hoping it's just a loose connection or something else a little jiggling might fix. I can find parts, but not schematics!  

Could you provide any service manual assistance @alpinegreenneon ?  

There could be a code stored. The problem could be in the RFHM which is located under the shelf support behind the rear seat. I just posted this earlier in this thread: http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-dart-general-discussion/41809-what-s-part.html PASSIVE ENTRY SYSTEM In the Passive Entry Keyless Go (PEKG) system the doors are unlocked passively; however, they must still be locked actively after exiting the vehicle using the tactile Lock button on either front door Smart handle. When the system senses a hand approaching the capacitive switch in the door Smart handle pull or detects a button press of the deck lid release switch, it sends out challenge messages through the Low Frequency (LF) antennas to authenticate the presence and location of a valid FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK). The FOBIK responds by sending a Very High Frequency (VHF) message back to the receiver within the Radio Frequency Hub Module (RFHM) (also known as the RF Hub). If the RFHM determines the FOBIK is valid and that it is located outside the vehicle in the same zone or vicinity as the door handle or deck lid switch being activated, it sends an electronic Unlock Request message over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus to the Body Control Module (BCM) to automatically unlock and allow entry to that aperture. The PEKG system circuits and FOBIK inputs are continually monitored by the microcontroller and software contained within the RFHM. When the RFHM monitors a problem in any of the PEKG system circuits or FOBIK inputs, it stores a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in its memory circuit. The hard wired circuits between components related to the PEKG system may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin-out information and location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds. However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the PEKG system or the electronic controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the PEKG system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the PEKG system or the electronic controls and communication related to PEKG system operation, as well as the retrieval or erasure of a DTC requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.  

alpinegreenneon said: There could be a code stored. The problem could be in the RFHM which is located under the shelf support behind the rear seat. I just posted this earlier in this thread: What's this part? PASSIVE ENTRY SYSTEM In the Passive Entry Keyless Go (PEKG) system the doors are unlocked passively; however, they must still be locked actively after exiting the vehicle using the tactile Lock button on either front door Smart handle. When the system senses a hand approaching the capacitive switch in the door Smart handle pull or detects a button press of the deck lid release switch, it sends out challenge messages through the Low Frequency (LF) antennas to authenticate the presence and location of a valid FOB with Integrated Key (FOBIK). The FOBIK responds by sending a Very High Frequency (VHF) message back to the receiver within the Radio Frequency Hub Module (RFHM) (also known as the RF Hub). If the RFHM determines the FOBIK is valid and that it is located outside the vehicle in the same zone or vicinity as the door handle or deck lid switch being activated, it sends an electronic Unlock Request message over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus to the Body Control Module (BCM) to automatically unlock and allow entry to that aperture. The PEKG system circuits and FOBIK inputs are continually monitored by the microcontroller and software contained within the RFHM. When the RFHM monitors a problem in any of the PEKG system circuits or FOBIK inputs, it stores a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in its memory circuit. The hard wired circuits between components related to the PEKG system may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire harness routing and retention, connector pin-out information and location views for the various wire harness connectors, splices and grounds. However, conventional diagnostic methods will not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the PEKG system or the electronic controls or communication between other modules and devices that provide features of the PEKG system. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the PEKG system or the electronic controls and communication related to PEKG system operation, as well as the retrieval or erasure of a DTC requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. Click to expand...

So how does the system know which door I'm at? That is, I've tried to see if someone can open a door on the opposite side of the car while I have the FOB with me and it doesn't work. So something must be directional or able to triangulate position or something similar. Honestly, if the other door works and the trunk works, I'm thinking it's the handle.  

The aforementioned LF antennas determine the location of the fobik. Typically, an antenna failure disables all passive entry function. I would swap the driver's door handle with the front passenger's handle (they are the same part) and see if the problem moves. If it does not, then my next step would be to check for water intrusion in the drivers door wiring connector or a break in the wiring section between the door and body.  

Thanks for your advice everyone. I'm going to check the codes later. I've never taken a handle off, but I like trying to figure this stuff out. And if I can't, I've got a good local shop.  

And now it works. Given the weather the last couple days compared to today (where it has been dry and the car has stayed in a garage since last night), I think it might have been moisture. Looks like taking everything off should be easier than I thought, so if it happens again I'll try swapping the handles as suggested. Thanks again everyone for helping me out. This forum is great!  

This is the list of possible codes that might be stored: B25A9-00-FRONT DRIVER DOOR HANDLE SENSE B25A9-01-FRONT DRIVER DOOR HANDLE SENSE - GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE B25AA-00-FRONT PASSENGER DOOR HANDLE SENSE B25AA-01-FRONT PASSENGER DOOR HANDLE SENSE-GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE RFFH module pins 6 (LG/YL) and 16 (LG/WT) are for the drivers side handle and pins 7 (LG/OR) and 17 (LG/VT) are for the passenger handle. The diagnostic tree: (Some of these tests require a scan tool while others are visual or can be done with a test light or multimeter. There is an app that mimics the scan tool AlfaOBD B25A9-00-FRONT DRIVER DOOR HANDLE SENSE •When Monitored: During the Passive Entry or Keyless Go event. •Set Condition: When the RF Hub module senses a door handle hall sensor, a lock switch failure or a continuous activation for over four (4) minutes, this code will set. Possible Causes DOOR HANDLE CAP DRIVER EXTERIOR DOOR HANDLE (PASSIVE ENTRY) RADIO FREQUENCY HUB (RF- HUB) 1.TEST FOR INTERMITTENT CONDITION NOTE: Verify that the vehicle’s battery is fully charged with a DVOM and use the scan tool to compare the Battery Voltage listed under “Data” in the RFH View to that of the BCM. If the vehicle’s battery is not fully charged, correct this condition before proceeding. NOTE: Before proceeding, check the handle for any foreign material, or binding, that could cause a sticking situation to the handle or switch. NOTE: If there are any other active RF Hub DTCs, perform the diagnostic procedure for them before proceeding. 1. Cycle the ignition on. 2. Using the scan tool, record and erase the DTCs. 3. Make sure that the door handle is in the home position (not pulled). 4. With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. 5. With the scan tool, select "RFH", "Data" and scroll to "Last Message: Left Front Door Handle Hall Signal". 6. Observe the value field. Does the scan tool display: YES? Yes NOTE: Verify that the magnet is present in the Door Handle Cap. If the magnet is present, then continue with the diagnostic procedure. If the magnet is NOT present, replace the Door Handle Cap first. •Replace the Left Front Exterior Door Handle in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 23 - Body/Door - Front/HANDLE - Removal) . •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). No •Go To 2 2.TEST FOR STUCK LOCK SWITCH 1. With the scan tool, select "RFH", "Data" and scroll to "Last Message: Left Front Door Handle Lock". 2. Observe the value field. Does the scan tool display: YES? Yes •Replace the Left Front Exterior Door Handle in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 23 - Body/Door - Front/HANDLE - Removal) . •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). No •Go To 3 3.DOOR HANDLE OPERATION 1. Open the Left Front Door window. 2. Cycle the ignition off, remove the FOBIK and close all doors. 3. Have the FOBIK outside and within 10 cm. and 1.5 m. (4 in. and 5 ft.) of the Left Front door handle. NOTE: In the next step, wait two (2) seconds between each Lock and Unlock activation as there is a two second delay after each Lock action. 4. Lock and Unlock the Left Front Door by the outside handle four (4) times. 5. Open the Left Front Door by pulling the handle. Did the Door Handle Lock and Unlock the door as it should? Yes •Test complete, the condition or conditions that originally set this DTC are not present at this time. Using the wiring diagrams as a guide, check all related splices and connectors for signs of water intrusion, corrosion, pushed out or bent terminals and correct pin tension. Record the findings on the work order. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). No •Go To 4 4.DOOR HANDLE OR RF HUB 1. Cycle the ignition on and open the Right Front window. 2. Cycle the ignition off, remove the FOBIK and close all doors. 3. Have the FOBIK outside the car and within 10cm. and 1.5 m. (4 in. and 5 ft.) from the Right Front door handle. NOTE: In the next steps, wait two (2) seconds between each Lock and Unlock activation as there is a two second delay after each Lock action. 4. Lock and Unlock the Right Front Door by the outside handle four (4) times. 5. Using the handle lock switch, lock the doors. 6. Open the Right Front Door by pulling the handle. Did the Right Front Door Handle Lock and Unlock the door as it should? Yes •Replace the Left Front Exterior Door Handle in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 23 - Body/Door - Front/HANDLE - Removal) . •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). No •Replace the RF-HUB in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Removal). •Perform the RADIO FREQUENCY HUB VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Standard Procedure). B25A9-01-FRONT DRIVER DOOR HANDLE SENSE - GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE •When Monitored: During the Passive Entry or Keyless Go event. •Set Condition: Whenever the Radio Frequency Hub (RF Hub) senses an open, a short to ground or a short to battery on the Passive Handle Switch Sense circuit for over one (1) minute, this code will set. Possible Causes DRIVER PASSIVE ENTRY HANDLE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND DRIVER PASSIVE ENTRY HANDLE SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT OPEN DRIVER PASSIVE ENTRY HANDLE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT SHORTED TO BATTERY DRIVER PASSIVE ENTRY HANDLE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT OPEN DRIVER PASSIVE ENTRY HANDLE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE DRIVER PASSIVE ENTRY HANDLE SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT DRIVER EXTERIOR DOOR HANDLE (PASSIVE ENTRY) RADIO FREQUENCY HUB (RF HUB) DOOR HANDLE CAP 1.CHECK FOR AN ACTIVE DTC NOTE: Verify that the vehicle’s battery is fully charged with a DVOM and use the scan tool to compare the Battery Voltage listed under “Data” in the RFH View to that of the BCM. If the vehicle’s battery is not fully charged, correct this condition before proceeding. NOTE: Before proceeding, check the handle for any foreign material, or binding, that could cause a sticking situation to the handle or switch. 1. Turn the ignition on and leave on until instructed to "Turn the ignition off". 2. With the scan tool, create a Vehicle Scan Report and attach it to the repair order. 3. With the scan tool, select: "RFH" and "System Tests". 4. Perform the Door Handle Verification Test. This will activate the Module to retest for DTCs. 5. With the scan tool, read the Active DTCs and wait one (1) minute. Is the DTC active? Yes NOTE: Verify that the magnet is present in the Door Handle Cap. If the magnet is present, then continue with the diagnostic procedure. If the magnet is NOT present, replace the Door Handle Cap first. •Go To 2 No •The condition or conditions that originally set this DTC are not present at this time. Using the wiring diagrams as a guide, check all related splices and connectors for signs of water intrusion, corrosion, pushed out or bent terminals, and correct pin tension and repair as necessary. If no problems are found, test complete. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). 2.CHECK THE (P125) DRIVER PASSIVE ENTRY HANDLE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT 1. With the scan tool, select "RFH", "Data" and scroll to "Left Front Door Handle Power". 2. Observe the Value field. What does the Value field display? OFF •Go To 3 ON •Go To 8 3.CHECK THE (P125) DRIVER PASSIVE ENTRY HANDLE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT 1. With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. 2. With the scan tool, select "RFH", "Data" and scroll to "Left Front Door Handle Power". 3. Double click on the Value field to start the graph. 4. Observe the graph for a pulsating line. Is the graph pulsating between high and low on the screen? Yes •Go To 4 No •Go To 7 4.DRIVER EXTERIOR DOOR HANDLE (PASSIVE ENTRY) 1. Turn the ignition off. 2. Disconnect the Driver Exterior Door Handle Switch harness connector. (Refer to 23 - Body/Door - Front/HANDLE - Removal) . 3. Turn the ignition on. 4. With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. 5. With the scan tool, select "RFH", "Data" and scroll to "Left Front Door Handle Power". 6. Double click on the Value field to start the graph. 7. Observe the graph for a pulsating line. Is the graph pulsating between high and low on the screen? Yes •Go To 5 No •Replace the Driver External Door Handle. (Refer to 23 - Body/Door - Front/HANDLE - Installation) . •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). 5.CHECK THE (P125) DRIVER PASSIVE HANDLE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND 1. Turn the ignition off. 2. Disconnect the Radio Frequency Hub (RF Hub) Module C2 harness connector. 3. Check the connectors for signs of water intrusion, corrosion, pushed out or bent terminals and correct pin tension. Repair as necessary. If repairs were made, return to Step 1. 4. Check for continuity between ground and the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Switch Sense circuit at the Handle Switch harness connector. Is there continuity between ground and the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Switch Sense circuit? Yes •Repair the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Switch Sense circuit for a short to ground. •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). No •Go To 6 6.CHECK THE (P125) DRIVER PASSIVE HANDLE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO THE (P124) DRIVER PASSIVE HANDLE SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT 1. Check for continuity between the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Switch Sense circuit and the (P124) Driver Passive Handle Switch Return circuit at the Handle Switch harness connector. Is there continuity between the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Switch Sense circuit and the (P124) Driver Passive Handle Switch Return circuit? Yes •Repair the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Switch Sense circuit for a short to the (P124) Driver Passive Handle Switch Return circuit. •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). No •Replace the Radio Frequency Hub (RF Hub) Module in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Removal). •Perform the RADIO FREQUENCY HUB VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Standard Procedure). 7.CHECK THE RF HUB 1. Continue with the scan tool still on "Left Front Door Handle Power". 2. Observe the Value field. What does the Value field display? OFF •Replace the Radio Frequency Hub (RF Hub) Module in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Removal). •Perform the RADIO FREQUENCY HUB VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Standard Procedure). ON •The condition or conditions that originally set this DTC are not present at this time. Using the wiring diagrams as a guide, check all related splices and connectors for signs of water intrusion, corrosion, pushed out or bent terminals, and correct pin tension and repair as necessary. If no problems are found, test complete. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). 8.CHECK THE DRIVER PASSIVE ENTRY HANDLE SWITCH 1. Continue with the scan tool still on "Left Front Door Handle Power". 2. Double click on the Value field to start the graph. 3. Observe the graph for a pulsating line. Is the graph pulsating between high and low on the screen? Yes •Go To 4 No •Go To 9 9.TEST HANDLE FUNCTIONS 1. Stop the graph. 2. Lower the driver door window. 3. Turn the ignition off, remove the FOBIK and close all doors. 4. With the scan tool, select "RFH", "Data" and scroll to "Passive Entry Function Carried Out". 5. Have the FOBIK within 1.5 m (5 ft.) of the driver door handle. NOTE: In the next steps, wait two (2) seconds between each Lock and Unlock activation as there is a two second delay after each Lock action. 6. Press the Lock button on the handle and observe the screen for "Passive lock at left front door". 7. Grab the door handle and observe the screen for "Passive entry at left front door". 8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 two more times. Is the Module receiving the inputs on the screen as you do them? Yes •The condition or conditions that originally set this DTC are not present at this time. Using the wiring diagrams as a guide, check all related splices and connectors for signs of water intrusion, corrosion, pushed out or bent terminals, and correct pin tension and repair as necessary. If no problems are found, test complete. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). No •Go To 10 10.HANDLE OR CIRCUIT PROBLEM 1. Disconnect the Driver Exterior Door Handle Switch harness connector. (Refer to 23 - Body/Door - Front/HANDLE - Removal) . 2. Measure the voltage between the (P124) Driver Passive Handle Switch Return and the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Sense circuits in the Driver Exterior Door Handle Switch connector. Is the voltage above 11.8 volts? Yes •Replace the Driver External Door Handle in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 23 - Body/Door - Front/HANDLE - Installation) . •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). No •Go To 11 11.CHECK THE (P124) DRIVER PASSIVE HANDLE SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT 1. Check for continuity between ground and the (P124) Driver Passive Handle Switch Return circuit at the Driver Exterior Door Handle Switch harness connector. Is there continuity between ground and the (P124) Driver Passive Handle Switch Return circuit? Yes •Go To 14 No •Go To 12 12.CHECK THE (P124) DRIVER PASSIVE HANDLE SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN 1. Disconnect the Radio Frequency Hub (RF Hub) Module C2 harness connector. 2. Check the connectors for signs of water intrusion, corrosion, pushed out or bent terminals and correct pin tension. Repair as necessary. If repairs were made, return to Step 1. 3. Measure the resistance of the (P124) Driver Passive Handle Switch Return circuit between the RF Hub Module C2 harness connector and the Driver Exterior Door Handle Switch harness connector. Is the resistance below 2.0 Ohms? Yes •Go To 13 No •Repair the (P124) Driver Passive Handle Switch Return circuit for an open. •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). 13.CHECK THE GROUND CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN 1. Disconnect the Radio Frequency Hub (RF Hub) Module C1 harness connector. 2. Check the connectors for signs of water intrusion, corrosion, pushed out or bent terminals and correct pin tension. Repair as necessary. If repairs were made, return to Step 1. 3. Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, check the RF-Hub Ground circuit in the C1 harness connector. NOTE: The test light must illuminate brightly. Compare the brightness to that of a direct connection to the battery. Does the test light illuminate brightly? Yes •Replace the Radio Frequency Hub (RF Hub) Module in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Removal). •Perform the RADIO FREQUENCY HUB VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Standard Procedure). No •Repair the RF-Hub Ground circuit for an open. •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). 14.CHECK THE (P125) DRIVER PASSIVE HANDLE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN 1. Disconnect the RF Hub Module C2 harness connector. 2. Check the connectors for signs of water intrusion, corrosion, pushed out or bent terminals and correct pin tension. Repair as necessary. If repairs were made, return to Step 1. 3. Measure the resistance of the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Switch Sense wire between the RF Hub C2 harness connector and the Driver Exterior Door Handle Switch harness connector. Is the resistance below 2.0 Ohms? Yes •Go To 15 No •Repair the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Sense circuit for an open. •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). 15.CHECK THE (P125) DRIVER PASSIVE HANDLE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE 1. Measure the voltage between ground and the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Switch Sense circuit in the C2 harness connector. Is there any voltage present? Yes •Repair the (P125) Driver Passive Handle Sense circuit for a short to voltage. •With the scan tool, select "Diagnostic Procedures", "Reset ECU" and "RFH" and perform the routine. •Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) - Standard Procedure). No •Replace the Radio Frequency Hub (RF Hub) Module in accordance with the Service Information. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8E - Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Removal). •Perform the RADIO FREQUENCY HUB VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Radio Frequency (RF Hub) - Standard Procedure).  

.....absolutely UNBELIEVABLE! And I thought the Space Shuttle was a little complicated. :serious: ....a LITTLE more complex than pulling/pushing a knob that is connected with a rod to the door lock.....  

+ + + When you have a problem with just the drivers side whether it be: window switch, window, lock, or u locking with the key fob) and the other options work for said error----ALWAYS and I mean ALWAYS check these two things before replacing the fob, window switch, handle etc... check fuses and the battery in the key fob. + + + I've replaced three window switches, 1 key fob battery, and third time I replaced the fuse to my window and it fixed my interior trunk release not working, my window not rolling up just the drivers side and the side mirrors. Also if your fobs battery is dying your trunk will randomly pop open. home this helps. I posted diagrams in another post but I'll try and post here  

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Passive Entry not working

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Today my passive entry stopped working. Also, I can only lock the car from my FOB, unlocking does nothing. I have to get the key out of the FOB to get in the car. I can then drive it. I thought maybe it was a low battery, so I grabbed my spare FOB and went to the car, same issues... Anyone experience this? Also - Funny story - Not 2 weeks ago I hit 36k miles, took a picture of the odometer, and intended to make a post on here wondering when my first non-warrantable issues would come...  

interesting development, took my car down to Dad's shop after work, as soon as I pulled in the shop, everything started working again....  

It sounds like you were at a location where something was interfering with the signal getting from the fob to the sensors. That's happened to me twice in the last couple of months, though I never had to use the hard key. The next place I stopped, everything was fine.  

Were you wearing gloves? Was it very cold out? When you touched it in cold air your body may not increase the capacitance enough to trigger the sensor. This can happen if you are wearing gloves or if your skin is cold and dry.  

You don't have to hold it in your hand. I never take mine out of my pocket.  

This is a wild idea. Try wiping the sensors under the handles, maybe they have road salt on them. Every one is driving white vehicles in my neck of the woods from road salt.  

I have had times where i had the key fob and my cell phone in the same pocket in my pants, hey I am old enough that I am not having any more babies.. Ha ha ha... anyway, most times the cell phone will block the fob ..... so I have to turn back and forth and do find a spot where the signal gets through and the car unlocks. I am just to lazy to pull it out of my pocket and use the unlock button or key... LOL  

i actually think i may know what did it... I rarely drive at night anymore, but when I do I turn down the lights on my radio so the screen is not so bright and distracting... I must have hit the "courtesy lights" that illuminate the doorhandles that day.. and I have the #carconnect installed..... stealth mode.... pretty sure it stops the locks from working even with the Fob. :/ If it wasn't that i have no idea!  

JazzyBlue said: #carconnect installed..... stealth mode.... pretty sure it stops the locks from working even with the Fob. :/ Click to expand...

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