3.5 ecoboost short trips

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Questions about 3.5 PFDI (NA) vs. 3.5 Ecoboost for towing

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Hi folks, I searched and have read quite a few threads, so apologies in advance if I missed something. My questions pertain to the 3.5 NA vs. 3.5 Ecoboost (turbo) for towing. I have read the Ford towing guide and see the differences there. I also gather that the NA would tend to run at higher RPM for a given speed (in general) (with the 4.10 gears in the NA and the 3.73 in the Ecoboost). A little about me first: I've never been one to need or want a ton of power in my vehicles. I tow boats so they are fairly aerodynamic (no huge boxy trailers). I like to keep my vehicles a long time and have found that for me simpler is better. Not that I tend to break things overly much, but I worry less when things are less complicated. I also worry about extra heat with the Ecoboost while towing. I currently tow with a V-10 and 4-speed 4R100 transmission. Yes, it winds out the RPM when towing. I can live with that. If I could change one thing it would be to add more gears to the transmission. A gear 2.5 would be really nice (that would certainly be taken care of with the 10-speed) I gather the Ecoboost is the "obvious" choice for towing, but I have some questions: Looking at the towing guide for my proposed van (T-350, Cargo, AWD), the maximum GCWR is 600# higher for the Ecoboost/3.73 equipped van than the otherwise same 3.5 NA/4.10 van. The tow rating is 500# higher for the Ecoboost van. I think it's the GCWR that is going to be the most important rating for me. Reason is, I will have a camper van interior. That's almost going to have to weight at least 7,500# - 8,000# GVW, so that would mean I would never be able to tow the 6,000# or 6,500# "tow rating" but would instead always simply be subtracting my gross vehicle weight from the GCWR and that would be my "real" tow capacity. So it's the higher GCWR for the Ecoboost I'm focusing on. So my first question: How much heavier is the stock curb weight of the Ecoboost van going to be than the 3.5 NA? I'd guess not 600# but I don't really know. If the Ecoboost weighs 400# more (for example) then the 600# difference in GCWR is "really" only 200#. Second: I'm sure the Ecoboost is fun to tow with. Just look at all that low RPM torque! But how "bad" is the 3.5 NA? It looks like everything else but the engine and rear axle would be the same (T-350, same 10-speed, same max tow package, presumably same brakes, etc.). I know "how bad" is a subjective question, but does anyone care to take a stab at it? Third: I imagine the Ecoboost makes a lot more heat, which concerns me. But is the cooling system more robust on the Ecoboost so they even out? Or does the NA have the same cooling system in which case it must tow cooler? Fourth: I drove a friend's F-150 with 3.5 Ecoboost through the mountains (not towing) and was kind of underwhelmed with the engine braking, which I tend to use a lot when towing. Would the engine braking on a 3.5 NA be better than the Ecoboost? Or the same? (I am not sure if it is engine "size" that gives you engine braking or something else.) I know this was long and really appreciate anyone who read through and may have some thoughts. These are things that don't really show up in the towing guide. Thanks, Vanaroo  

You have to remember when you are towing you would need to place the dash setting in ' Tow Mode ' that would keep the transmission from going to the overdrive gears. I know when you have the 3.5L base engine in ' Tow Mode ' it will downshift earlier than the same situation with the EcoBoost engine when you are going up a slight hilly situation. That is the extra torque which makes that difference and you are working the engine a lot more having the 4.10 ratio versus the 3.73 one.  

Understood. Even my primitive 4R100 has one overdrive gear. I keep that disengaged when towing 99% of the time. No tow haul mode on the 4R100 so I manage things manually with the shifter and my right foot. Great engine braking though (not sure if there is any difference in the engine braking of the 3.5NA vs. the Ecoboost but it seems like either will be less than with the V-10). I can see the NA 3.5 has a lot less torque down low in the RPM band than the Ecoboost. The 4.10 gears will make up for that a little bit, but clearly one would be running at a higher RPM in general while towing. I can live with that. I have read enough to see that the Ecoboost is the obvious choice for towing, especially if you like "fun" and "powerrrrr" while towing. BUT it also sounds like it makes a lot more heat and of course it has more parts to break and cause problems. I'm more concerned with reliabliity and shop time than with the cost. I'm used to driving with less available power and that's okay with me. I manage it. So my questions are to find out a little bit more about the differences with the NA, beyond just that the Ecoboost is better and has more power (it really does have amazing low RPM torque, wow) Thanks for the response and also thanks ahead to anyone else.  

The 3.5 non-turbo can’t get out of its own way without downshifting. I’ve towed smaller equipment trailers and it has good power when it winds up, but because it’s so short on torque, it’s almost like an on-off switch as far as power delivery with a heavy load. The EcoBoost is the most popular engine in the best selling vehicle in the world, but problems are really not all the common. For heat mitigation… use premium when towing in warm weather. It runs rich under heavy load if running 87-octane in order to prevent detonation. As the extra fuel burns makes the EGTs shoot up, which means extra heat dumped through the intercooler.  

carringb said: The 3.5 non-turbo can’t get out of its own way without downshifting. I’ve towed smaller equipment trailers and it has good power when it winds up, but because it’s so short on torque, it’s almost like an on-off switch as far as power delivery with a heavy load. Click to expand...

Thanks, carringb - that's good info. I was thinking, well, I'm used to towing with non-amazing vehicles (not overweight, but just not fancy transmissions, no diesel torque, etc.), so maybe I could avoid the worries about heat, extra parts, etc. that naturally come along with a turbocharged engine.. I've often found that I'm perfectly happy driving vehicles that other people consider underpowered. But even I have my limits! It's one thing to manage power and gears, but another to just have something that's not working well no matter what (which may be the case with the NA it sounds like). I was concerned with the extra complexity and - especially - the extra heat under the hood of a van so was weighing do I really need the Ecoboost. But from what you write it sounds like even I might prefer the Ecoboost. Thanks very much for your input. (Although the cooling system in my V-10 van is able to keep the engine temps completely acceptable when I'm towing [under 200ºF even in super hot weather in the mountains] - the "super heated doghouse" can make the interior uncomfortable and makes it obvious that the van design is not that great at getting rid of heat from the engine compartment.) Understanding what causes (even) more heat is useful info. I find it easier to adjust when I know the "why" of things. So knowing extra (rich) fuel results in more heat is good because that will help me manage it. Vanaroo PS: Do you know if the NA you towed with had the 10-speed transmission like it does now? (If that would even make much difference.) Also do you know if it had the 3.73 or the 4.10 gears? At this point it's sounding like the Ecoboost but I just want to understand what you were driving. Thanks again.  

Vanaroo said: I've often found that I'm perfectly happy driving vehicles that other people consider underpowered. Click to expand...

So many people overthink this. IMHO there is zero downside to the EcoBoost - the power and torque are there when you need it, but you are not lugging and extra pair of cylinders, with additional drag, weight, heat etc., when you don't. But if you do choose the wheezer, just be sure to never ride in a turbo.  

OldMadBrit said: So many people overthink this. Click to expand...

OldMadBrit said: IMHO there is zero downside to the EcoBoost - the power and torque are there when you need it, but you are not lugging and extra pair of cylinders, with additional drag, weight, heat etc., when you don't. Click to expand...

OldMadBrit said: But if you do choose the wheezer, just be sure to never ride in a turbot. Click to expand...

Vanaroo said: Not to make it a "we were so poor" thread but it is amazing how standards change. Click to expand...

Since you say you are currently towing with a 6.8 V10 and 4R100 transmission, the Ecoboost would definitely give you similar comfort when towing. I had that setup in one of my Super Duties and then the second gen V10 with the 5 speed which was way better (especially for only $510 as an option). Our first Transit was the NA 3.7 which was perfectly adequate for day to day driving yet lacking for aggressive merging and such when needed. We now have two Eco Boost vans that like the V10 remove any second-guessing about power availability when needed (especially torque).  

Vanaroo said: Third: I imagine the Ecoboost makes a lot more heat, which concerns me. Click to expand...

I'd think/hope that that wastegate would be (mostly) open when off the throttle, so the turbos shouldn't be doing any (much) work ... generating heat.  

Vanaroo said: I drove a friend's F-150 with 3.5 Ecoboost through the mountains (not towing) and was kind of underwhelmed with the engine braking, which I tend to use a lot when towing. Would the engine braking on a 3.5 NA be better than the Ecoboost? Or the same? (I am not sure if it is engine "size" that gives you engine braking or something else.) Click to expand...

njvagabond said: Not quite sure but a combination of engine size and compression ratio and rpms are the factors in engine braking?? Basically how much air and how much it is being compressed per unit of time. Click to expand...

I found the Mr.Truck videos to be helpful (one example below) as he compares both engines Ecoboost vs V8 in a couple of head to head videos while towing up a serious grade in CO. The Fast Lane videos also have some of these comparisons.  

This is a great video from a fleet tech that services Transit ambulances. It's a good place to start with info from someone with experience maintaining and repairing both the na motor and the turbo motor. His info is not tainted with the personal bias you get n forums. Everybody on here loves whatever they got. Fwiw, I've towed a bit with the 3.7l and 6 speed trans and like you, really could care less about power in my van. My primary objective is reliability. The only time I really miss the ecoboost is when I'm traversing mountain passes over 10k feet... and since that's about 0001% of my driving, I'll tough it out. Don't worry about downshifting and higher revs... the motor is built for it and it puts significantly less stress on the motor and transmission than turbos do. It will make it up the hills just fine, you just have to plan ahead a bit more and be patient.  

Those ambulances get abused way more than your average owner. For another data point on the complete opposite spectrum, there is a forum member with over 400k miles on his 3.5 EB used for expediting.  

Janus9 said: Those ambulances get abused way more than your average owner. For another data point on the complete opposite spectrum, there is a forum member with over 400k miles on his 3.5 EB used for expediting. Click to expand...

Azb, That's the video that pushed me to start this thread (which I had wanted to do but had been putting off). I liked his presentation. BTW, he also has a great video on adjusting the sliding door mechanisms (and as Janus9 mentions, the ambulance drivers don't exactly baby them). I'm like you. I want reliability. Not only actual reliability, but the freedom from nagging worries about extra complexity (which would be there for some of us even if ultimately there were no actual issues). Right now I'm still going back and forth. It's easy to love the Ecoboost's hp/RPM and torque stats for towing. The fun/pep at other times doesn't matter to me, so that probably makes me love the extra complexity less than a person who does love the power and having a "fast" van. I wish there were a happy medium, but right now there isn't anything between the two. One other difference is that the 3.5NA would only have a 12,000# GCWR (vs. the Ecoboost at 12,600#) and that's going to make a difference for me. Unless the Ecoboost weighs considerably more (guess I had better see if I can find curb weights) in which case that additional capacity doesn't really exist. (The additional 500# tow capacity of the EB won't matter for me as I will hit GCWR with either engine choice long before I get anywhere near the rated tow capacities.) Edited to add: Okay, I found the published curb weights. For AWD vans, the 3.5 Ecoboost is shown as weighing ~75# more than the 3.5NA (there's a slightly higher spread for 2WD but still under 100#). So that does give the Ecoboost a ratings edge for towing. Since the GCWR will come into play long before actual tow rating for anyone starting with much more than an empty van, then the Ecoboost is effectively rated to tow around 525# more. Granted this is ratings, and no skies are likely to fall over this small of a difference. Still, I do like to stay under ratings, and an additional 525# is nothing to sneeze at. More food for thought. Thanks again to all who have contributed. I hope this thread may help others in future as well. (And there's still room for more posts.)  

There is a reason why Ford did a major update with Generation 2 Ecoboost, they fixed the carbon buildup issues , timing chain stretch issues and other things lots of good reliable info if you want to find out more. The Transit unfortunately never got the updated Generation 2 Ecoboost , for a few reasons maybe do to engine compartment being to small for the 2 Generation Ecoboost and maybe the the vast majority of Transits sold are fleet that usually go with the Base Engine. I seriously considered the Ecoboost but chose to get the Base Engine , I wont be doing a lot of towing and when I do it will be shorter locally trips. I may have gotten the Ecoboost have they offered the Generation 2 Ecoboost for the Transit, but at the end of the Day there was a few to many Red Flags about the 1 Generation Ecoboost, reliability issues after the 70/80k miles and having expensive repairs.  

Rolf said: There is a reason why Ford did a major update with Generation 2 Ecoboost, they fixed the carbon buildup issues , timing chain stretch issues and other things lots of good reliable info if you want to find out more. The Transit unfortunately never got the updated Generation 2 Ecoboost , for a few reasons maybe do to engine compartment being to small for the 2 Generation Ecoboost and maybe the the vast majority of Transits sold are fleet that usually go with the Base Engine. I seriously considered the Ecoboost but chose to get the Base Engine , I wont be doing a lot of towing and when I do it will be shorter locally trips. I may have gotten the Ecoboost have they offered the Generation 2 Ecoboost for the Transit, but at the end of the Day there was a few to many Red Flags about the 1 Generation Ecoboost, reliability issues after the 70/80k miles and having expensive repairs. Click to expand...

Rolf, So looking at your signature, you are going to get your van in TWO days? That's exciting! Yes, if I weren't going to be towing, I think I would order the NA for sure. It would just suit me. Towing always throws a wrench in things with more "needs" but that's just part of the deal. I might already have been driving something other than my V-10, but ...... towing. Maybe some day I'll cut that out, but not quite ready to do that yet.  

What I really want while towing more than turbos is better brakes. Going down the mountain towing a trailer is a bigger issue than going up, imo.  

Can't say I really love hearing that, combined with no longer having the aggressive engine braking of my V-10 (at least it seemed a little weak driving my buddy's F-150/3.5EB/10-speed). Definitely agree on the down being a bigger deal. I can always chug up something, even if at reduced speed. Haven't ever had a runaway event on the way down (and hope to keep it that way, knock on steel), but it's definitely the more concerning direction. With my current setup I almost never brake on the way down (maybe a couple of taps on a steep grade with no flatter spots). Just let the engine take care of things. This is good because my trailer has surge brakes (so when you use the tow vehicle brakes you have the potential to heat up the trailer brakes because they don't have a real "positive" release feature). I might have to consider going to electric-over-hydraulic trailer brakes with a Transit. Guess I'd have to see how well the engine braking worked. Not to over-enthuse about my V-10 van, but there are some things it does really well (that I maybe took for granted). Getting a bit tired of driving a late 90's chassis around though with its one lonely airbag.  

You want big engine braking you need a big engine. The end. Not getting it in a Transit.  

Vanaroo... You are over thinking this. This is a 6,000 lb commercial vehicle that's made to work. Even if you are worried, what comparable vehicle are you going to get that is better suited?? I've driven two different 3.5 Ecoboost F150s for the past 8 years and LOVE towing with this motor!! The 5.4 V8 in my previous F150 couldn't compete. Can't wait to get my '22 Transit.  

Brandon Meyer said: Vanaroo... You are over thinking this. This is a 6,000 lb commercial vehicle that's made to work. Even if you are worried, what comparable vehicle are you going to get that is better suited?? Click to expand...

Brandon Meyer said: I've driven two different 3.5 Ecoboost F150s for the past 8 years and LOVE towing with this motor!! Click to expand...

OP, can you rent a van to see what the NA 3.5 is like? Can you find one on a lot to test? This might answer a few questions for you. Looking at a few of your responses you mentioned never driving one. Other than that I have no input as I have never towed.  

carringb said: I don’t know about the Transit specifically, but in other Fords, Tow/Haul increase engine braking by closing the throttle body fully. Normally, the programming is biased to allow free coasting by keeping the TB cracked when the injectors are cut, which increases coast durations and allows more energy to by used my the smart charging system. Click to expand...

carringb said: Of course, not many engines will ever engine brake as well as a V10 Click to expand...

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Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost V6 Engine Specs & Performance Information

Written by Kamil

March 23rd, 2022

Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Engine Specs and Performance

Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost V6 Engine Specs & Performance Information

At the turn of 2010, stricter fuel economy and emissions standards in pickup trucks began to take effect. Traditional, naturally-aspirated V8 engines began to struggle to meet these emissions and fuel economy standards, while also offering limited performance figures. In response to these standards, Ford created the innovative EcoBoost engine platform that provided lower emissions, better fuel economy, and even greater capabilities. The 3.5L EcoBoost V6 Turbocharged engine was introduced to the Ford F-150 pickup truck in 2011 offering an impressive 365 horsepower and 420 lb.-ft of torque and it hasn’t left the F-150 lineup since. In fact, they are one of Ford’s best selling powertrains and are used in a number of other vehicle applications like the Ford Expedition and the Ford Explorer . They’ve also continued to improve the Ford F-150’s 3.5L EcoBoost V6 Engine Performance Specs, Fuel Economy, and Tow Ratings since then.

Since the 3.5L EcoBoost’s introduction into the Ford F-150 pickup truck, it has been modified to provide higher performance figures, and today, there is even a Hybrid variation of this engine, coined the 3.5L PowerBoost Hybrid V6 Engine . There are also “High-Output” 3.5L EcoBoost engines that are used in 2019 F-150 Limited models and the Ford Raptor . In this post, we’ll cover the various variations of the 3.5L EcoBoost Engine, along with this engine’s design characteristics, performance specs, and even fuel economy too.

Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Performance

In a time when Big V-8 Engines were all the rage, the V6 EcoBoost Engine rattled the pickup truck industry. 2011 Ford F-150 pickup trucks with the 3.5L EcoBoost engine provided the best tow capacity, payload, and second highest torque amongst F-150 Powertrains. They actually provided better than tow capacity than every V-8 Half-ton pickup out there as well! In our next sections, we’ll go over how the EcoBoost engine was able to accomplish these feats.

Engine Design And Characteristics

The 3.5L EcoBoost Engine utilizes a smaller V-6 configuration and a Dual Overhead Camshaft or DOHC design. Twin Independent Variable Cam Timing, otherwise known as Ti-VCT, allows greater control over the camshafts, resulting in improved fuel efficiency and power.

Other key contributors to the 3.5L EcoBoost’s performance include twin turbochargers and direct fuel injection. This combination creates superior low-end torque that is maintained across a huge rpm range, similar to a Diesel engine. Peak torque is reached at 2,500 rpm, however, up to 90% of peak torque is available at only 1,700 rpm. This diesel-like performance also comes at a cheaper price, as 3.5L EcoBoost maintenance and operation is relatively inexpensive compared to diesel engines. This helps make the 3.5L EcoBoost the premier gasoline powertrain for towing. In fact, even today in 2022, the 3.5L EcoBoost engine continues to be the tow capacity leader amongst F-150 Powertrains.

When the 3.5L V6 EcoBoost entered the F-150 lineup, it was originally mated to the 6-speed 6R80 automatic transmission . In 2017, it was paired with an advanced 10-speed automatic transmission, known as the 10R80 . 3.5L PowerBoost Hybrid engines, Ford’s latest hybrid variation of the 3.5L EcoBoost, utilizes the 10R80 with an additional 35-kilowatt (47-horsepower) electric motor integrated into the transmission.

3.5l EcoBoost Engine Specs

Ford f-150 3.5l ecoboost v6 engine generations, generation 1 (2011-2016).

The first generation 3.5L EcoBoost V6 Engine was introduced in Ford F-150 trucks in 2011. It became an instant success due to its astounding performance and fuel economy. Despite being a smaller engine, the 3.5L EcoBoost V6 engine outperformed most V-8 engines used in both the F-150 and competitors trucks in the same time period. It also really shined when towing, offering owners diesel-like performance. Two major contributors to the EcoBoost’s performance include a set of BorgWarner K03 turbochargers and direct fuel injection.

As with any initial powertrain offering, the First Generation 3.5L EcoBoost had to have some kinks worked out. Despite this, they’re still favorable powertrains amongst Ford F-150 owners. Visit our 3.5L EcoBoost Problems post for the most common issues found on these trucks.

Other key features of the first generation 3.5L EcoBoost V6 engines include:

• Cast Exhaust Manifolds for maximum durability
• Paired with the 6-Speed 6R80 Automatic Transmission
• DAMB (Direct-Acting Mechanical Bucket valve train with polished buckets
• High-Pressure direct fuel injection fed by a common rail
• Pistons with optimized bowls to improve efficiency during combustion
• Twin-independent variable camshaft timing (Ti-VCT)
• Improved manifold & Cylinder Heads

1st Generation Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost V6 Performance Attributes

Generation 2 (2017-2021).

The second generation 3.5L EcoBoost engine was introduced in 2017. In addition to a revamped motor, these trucks also gained a new 10-speed automatic transmission, known as the 10R80 . 2017 Ford F-150 with the second generation 3.5L EcoBoost engine gained 10 more horsepower and 50 lb.-ft more torque than 2016 First generation engines. Fuel economy also improved 1 MPG on 4×2 models, and 2 MPG on 4×4 Models.

While the numbers show the improved performance, 2017 EcoBoost owners also received other benefits that are not quite as obvious on paper. Acceleration, Reliability, and overall driving experience were all improved. The second generation also has better low-end and peak performance, resulting in better towing performance.

Key 2nd Generation 3.5L EcoBoost V6 Engine Changes

Twin-port and direct injection fuel system.

An important contributor to better performance and reliability on the 2nd Generation 3.5L EcoBoost engine is a re-designed fuel system. A new twin-port and direct injection fuel system was introduced. In this type of fuel system, two injectors are used per cylinder. One injector Is located on the intake port where air is introduced to the cylinder, and the other is positioned within the cylinder. These two injectors work together and ultimately result in greater efficiency, lower emissions, and more power. It also aids in reliability by reducing carbon build-up.

Updated Twin-Turbocharger System

Another significant contributor to the second generation 3.5L EcoBoost V6 Engines updated performance specs include a new BorgWarner turbocharger system. The updated design provides greater boost. In addition, a new, lighter turbine wheel is used that is made of high-temperature, super ally Mar-M-247. This turbine wheel upgrade increased responsiveness. An electronic waste gate was also added to the new turbocharger setup.

Weight Reduction & Durability Improvements

Ford’s newer aluminum body panels aren’t the only way they tried to reduce weight to improve performance. The 2nd Gen 3.5L EcoBoost engine features a variety of lighter, but more durable components. Hollow camshafts are used in the newly designed roller-finger valvetrain that remove as much as four pounds of weight. The Valvetrain was also updated with the addition of more durable intake and exhaust valves. Hydraulic valve-lash adjusters were also introduced that optimize engine durability throughout the trucks lifetime.

The 3.5L EcoBoost’s lower end was also improved. An upgraded crankshaft, bearing system, and more stout connecting rod undercuts provide greater durability to support all that new power. A Dual-Chain cam drive was also added providing greater simplicity and simultaneously reducing NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness) of the engine.

Auto Start-Stop

2nd Generation Versions of this engine also benefit from lower CO2 emissions and sometimes better fuel economy thanks to a new Auto Start-Stop standard feature. Idle times are decreased because the engine is shut off when the vehicle is at a stop during normal driving operation. This feature is disabled when towing or in 4WD.

New High-Output Engine

In addition to the introduction of the new 3.5L Ecoboost engine in 2017, Ford also unveiled the 2017 Ford Raptor. It boasted significantly better performance characteristics including more horsepower/torque and fuel economy. This was in large part to a modified 2nd Generation 3.5L EcoBoost that was coined the “high-output” model. 2017+ Ford Raptors come standard with the 2nd Generation 3.5L EcoBoost High-Output engine that produces 450 horsepower and 510 lb.-ft of torque.

Later, 2019 Ford F-150 Limited models were also given the high-output 3.5L Ecoboost engine providing greater performance specs for luxury truck customers.

2nd Generation Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost V6 Performance Attributes

3.5l powerboost hybrid (a hybrid 3.5l ecoboost engine).

In 2021, Ford released the 2021 Ford F-150 equipped with a new 3.5L PowerBoost Hybrid Engine . Essentially, it is a 3.5L EcoBoost engine with an added 35-kilowatt, or 47 horsepower, electric motor integrated into a 10-speed transmission. This engine produces a whopping 430 horsepower and 570 lb.-ft of torque. This is the highest torque offered in an F-150 yet, and it translates into more pulling power. 2021 Ford F-150 trucks with the 3.5L PowerBoost engine can tow up to 12,700 pounds when equipped with the max trailering package. Fuel Economy is also very impressive, offering almost similar fuel economy to the 3.0L Powerstroke Diesel engine available in the 2021 Ford F-150 too.

3.5L PowerBoost Specs

Ford f-150 3.5l ecoboost v6 major model year milestones.

Ford F-150 is introduced with the 1st Generation 3.5L EcoBoost V6 engine offering impressive performance specs, fuel economy, and tow ratings.

In 2015, Ford F-150 trucks received a new body-style made from high-strength, military-grade aluminum alloy to reduce weight. These trucks also contain an improve fully boxed ladder frame that uses more high-strength steel than previously. All together up to 700 lbs of weight was removed, giving the 2015 Ford F-150 trucks with the 3.5L EcoBoost engine greater towing and payload specs, while simultaneously helping acceleration, fuel economy, and stopping times.

In 2017, the 2nd Generation 3.5L EcoBoost V6 turbocharged engine is introduced in Ford F-150 trucks. Power numbers increased substantially to 375 horsepower and 475 lb.-ft of torque. The 2nd Gen engine features a revised turbocharger design with electronic waste gates, a new fuel system, and other durability improvements. A high-output version of the 2nd Gen 3.5L EcoBoost engine becomes available on the new 2nd generation 2017 Ford Raptor . A new 10-Speed Automatic Transmission is also added.

In 2018, Ford F-150 trucks with the 3.5L EcoBoost receive a big bump in towing capacity. 2018 Models can tow 1,000 lbs more than the previous 2017 model. 2018 models also received a freshened interior and exterior.

2019 Ford F-150s in the Limited trim package now come with the high-output 3.5L EcoBoost engine that boasts an impressive 450 horsepower and 510 lb-ft of torque.

2021 marked some major changes for the 3.5L EcoBoost Engine. The standard 3.5L EcoBoost engine now produces 400 horsepower and 510 lb.-ft of torque. The 3.5L PowerBoost engine is also introduced, which is a hybrid variant of the 3.5L EcoBoost engine, offering impressive fuel economy and an array of capabilities never before seen on a Ford F-150. The 2021 Ford F-150 also had a significant body-style change this year.

3.5L EcoBoost Specs FAQs

Yes, the 3.5L EcoBoost utilizes a twin turbocharger design which is a major factor in these engines diesel-like performance characteristics.

Horsepower on a Ford F-150 with the 3.5L EcoBoost varies across model years. 2011-2016 Ford F-150s with the 3.5L EcoBoost engine produce 365 horsepower. 2017-2020 F-150s featuring the second generation standard output 3.5L EcoBoost engines produce 375 horsepower. 2017-2021 Ford F-150s equipped with the high-output 3.5L EcoBoost Engines provide 450 horsepower. Finally, 2021-2022 Ford F-150s with the standard output 3.5L EcoBoost engine produce 400 horsepower.

Torque on a Ford F-150 with the 3.5L EcoBoost varies across model years. 2011-2016 Ford F-150s with the 3.5L EcoBoost engine produce 420 lb.-ft of torque. 2017-2020 F-150s featuring the second generation standard output 3.5L EcoBoost engines produce 470 lb.-ft. 2017-2021 Ford F-150s equipped with the high-output 3.5L EcoBoost Engines produce 510 lb.-ft of torque. Finally, 2021-2022 Ford F-150s with the standard output 3.5L EcoBoost engine produce 500 lb.-ft of torque.

There are a number of Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Performance Upgrades that allow you to increase horsepower, torque, fuel economy, and even speed. The most common Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost performance upgrade to increase speed and performance is tuning.

Early Ford F-150s with the 3.5L EcoBoost engine could tow 11,300 pounds. Today, in 2022, Ford F-150 trucks equipped with the 3.5L EcoBoost and Max Tow package can tow up to 14,000 pounds.

Learn More About the 3.5L EcoBoost Engine

Visit some of our other posts about this engine by clicking on the links below.

• Comprehensive Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Maintenance Guide
• 7 Best Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Performance Upgrades
• 7 Most Common 3.5L EcoBoost Problems & How to Fix Them

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2019 Ford F150 3.5 Ecoboost 7 mos review

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In case anyone is in the market for a new truck, here is my review. Its 7mos old and 10K miles. Biggest disappointment: More Plastic on the exterior than originally thought. The door entry key pad is also plastic and cheap. Friend (Tbone) had the car wash rip his off and you could see how cheap. Most impressed: The 6cyl 3.5 Ecoboost is a beast of an engine. Took a 3000 mile trip to Colorado. On the first day driving 9hrs at 75mph plus got 25.9 mpg with a truck top on the bed. I get 16mph pulling my 20ft kenner bay boat. Entire trip 24.1mpg with mountains and everything. Interior: Very satisfied. I am 6'-1" and can stretch out on long drives. Back seat is a Lemo with lots of room. I opened the hood and took a real look around. No way to get to the belts without removing 1000 hoses. Oil is not easy to change with the filter hidden on the engine front on top the wheel rack. If you like working on your own truck. You will be lost. This twin turbo engine looks nothing like you are used to seeing. Previous owner of 2 Chevy trucks but New Years week they were expensive and not dealing. Overall very happy with the truck.  

Gofish Which rear end does it have ? Is it a 4x4 ? Which model line ? Long bed, short bed ? Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk  

I have a 2019 F150 King Ranch super crew with the long bed , 6.5 FT. Its got 23,000 on it. It is a 4 x 4 3.55 grears but I never seem to break 20MPG. With the 36 gallon tank I have a 500 mile range though.  

Do you ever put it in ECO mode? I get up to 21 when in ECO on long trips and not being heavy on the pedal.  

I love mine. 22,000 miles in 7 months with about 50% of them with the boat being towed. I get about 14.7 mpg towing with a heavy foot and no issues passing or pulling up on highway and getting to speed due to having plenty of torque. My 5.7 Chevy used to get 9 mpg on a good day and had to wait for plenty of distance between cars getting on the highway. Its also fun to drive when not pulling because its pretty fast. I have been through deep sand at PINS and deep mud at other places. The 4x4 with the diff locked is pretty impressive. The only thing I dont like is when in 4x4 low you can hear some stuff banging around when going from D to R..  

It a crew cab short bed. Not 4x4 The bed top does help gas mfg 3.15 rear axle - I just checked. The 3.5 ECO engine is very fast. More torque and HP then V8's. You can really tell. Never put in ECO mode  

2020 F150 XLT Fx4 bought new dec 14.3.5 Ecoboost 3:55 rear end, ha best truck I’ve ever had.Gas 20+ omg and the new good year wranglers with Kevlar ha I’ve made 10 trips to Rocksprings feeding 4-600 lb feeders over flint rock cactus and barbed wire.Im usually the first one to the speed limit on an open road fast.  

Forgot the only 1 thing that drives me crazy about the truck. The dang motor shuts off when you put the brake on and are stopped.  

You can get a device to turn cancel that out. But why would you ? I rented one, and it didn't seem to be a big deal . Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk  

3 month review On my 2nd Ecoboost. 1st was 2012 3.5 and traded in with 160,00 miles and no major problems. Just bought by 2nd in May 2020 F150 Platinum 3.5 with 355 rear end. Averaging 16.9 in the first 5,000 miles. Maybe the 295/60/R20 Nitto ridge grapplers and 2" leveling kit have something to do with it I installed shortly after purchasing. Will mileage get better with age?  

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Thanks, Karl...I just luv mine. Jerks my 23' CC out of the water, and great torque, and passing speed!  

Torque, low end power, towing power??? Grab an F350 diesel 4x4 and then you don’t need tuners, re-programming or engines shutting down every time you stop. 🤓 Sorry just had to poke the bear a little. If you don’t need a diesel the f-150 is a nice ride. And Ford didn’t need Obama bucks to bail them out like the other auto guys did.  

Jkmoore03 said: Torque, low end power, towing power??? Grab an F350 diesel 4x4 and then you don’t need tuners, re-programming or engines shutting down every time you stop. 🤓 Sorry just had to poke the bear a little. If you don’t need a diesel the f-150 is a nice ride. And Ford didn’t need Obama bucks to bail them out like the other auto guys did. Click to expand...

My son loves his F150 with Ecoboost. I think it's a 2018 or 2019. I love my 2019 Ram Laramie 5.7 L Hemi. I don't get the best mileage, 19 or 20 MPG but it's very quick and comfortable.  

You don't need a Programmer or anything. The HP and Torque is better than a V8 and incredible. The 3.5 ECO is 375HP and 470Ft Lb Torque stock engine. That White truck looks great!!!! I have a $350 Tri-fold bed top I use for trips. Works great and installs in about 2min. I do need a bug deflector on the hood. Anyone recommend a good one.  

2012 w the 3.5 here. 108000 and still humming right along. Its been a great truck  

I've got a 5-Star tune on mine. Same motor, 3.5 Ecoboost. I'm running the 93 performance / tow tune and holy.... Its so fast it feels like I'm going to break something. My other mods have been with Forscan. I've eliminated the auto start stop (***), added power fold mirrors when I lock the truck, and eliminated that double horn honk if you close the door with the vehicle running. Awesome tool and very cheap.  

For those not hitting the auto off switch on the dash.....don't press down so hard on the brake pedal when stopped. It won't shut off if you just apply enough pressure to stay stopped.  

I have a 2015 F150 Eco Boost Platinum 4X4 with 127,000 miles. I love this truck. I custom ordered it back in 2014. I have had a 5 Star tune on since 36k miles also a leveling kit running 285/65/20 tires. I have only changed the brakes and fluids. Never had a major issue. I love the eco boost, even better with the tune.  

I like my 2017 5 liter V8 in my 150 (385 hp, 387 ft torque), but have a 3.5 eco on the 2017 Explorer with twin turbos, 365 hp and 350 ft torque. I learned quick that that little v6 eco moves fast-nice fine in Sealy-dang left laners going slow-it's for passing cars, not passing time! The v8 doesn't 'shut off' and I don't think my Explorer does either.  

Jamaica Cove said: I like my 2017 5 liter V8 in my 150 (385 hp, 387 ft torque), . Click to expand...

Boat pulling zero problems! camper maybe in the future. As I mentioned in beginning of the post, if you work on trucks the Eco boost might not be the best engine unless you enjoy a challenge. Love my truck but would not want to work on it. 1000 hoses just to get to the belts to change. Also, read your manual. They do not recommend 87 oc regular fuel. This engine must be kept clean. I burn the 89 mid grade.  

Thanks for posting the information on the fuel. I have a 2019 F-150 KR 4X4 with the Eco-Boost. I didn't notice that information in the owner's manual. But, did fill up with super unleaded a few times, but didn't notice an improvement in performance or MPG so I went back to 87 octane. Do you think it would hurt anything to put Chevron Techron in it every month or so?  

A friend of mine hauls a 7500lb camper with his F150 2wd 3.5 EB that is rigged for towing the max allowed. He is absolutely ecstatic with the truck and the motor's performance.  

I have zero issues with mine and really like it except for 2 things. 1. I dont have leather and sometimes forget a towel when I am wading. The saltwater has already left stains like sweat does on a hat. I can fix that. 2. There is no HOT PLUG so your phone or whatever you need to have charge while not running. I have used everything plug of all sorts, USB, plug in, etc. ZERO, nada. This really annoys me. Other than those 2 things, i have been happy. Always had a bow tie, but they wouldnt even start to work with me on a new one last Nov., so I said adios.  

Thanks, I'm going to have to re-check mine.Thought the 12V round one in the console stayed hot, guess not.  

I also wanted to say the F150 with the Eco- Boost drives a lot better with a tune. It makes truck come alive and the transmission shifts faster. Before the tune the truck shifted very slow and always hunted high gear. If you don’t want a tune I think Petal Commander makes something that doesn’t mess with the computer or always drive in Sport mode. I run the 5Star 89 octane performance/tow tune and love it. Put almost 90k miles on that tune without issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

I also wanted to say the F150 with the Eco- Boost drives a lot better with a tune. Click to expand...

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk  

This the the Tuner I use. https://www.stage3motorsports.com/7015-2015-F150-3-5L-EcoBoost-SCT-X4-Tuner-5-Star-Custom-Tunes.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

2018 Fx4 3.5 Ecoboost, no tuner...Never fails to put a smile on my face.  

I thought the brakes weren't spota lock up? :rotfl:  

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2021 Ford F-150 EcoBoost Review: The Bar Is Raised, Again

Auto123 reviews the 2021 Ford F-150 EcoBoost .

How do you go about revising a vehicle that has led the country in sales for over 50 years? Very carefully, for sure, but also by bringing innovations to keep it ahead of the Joneses. A few years ago you’D hear a lot of talk about Chrysler creating a host of accessories for its vehicles; now Ford shows it can play that game too. Especially if we take a close look at what the all-new, completely redesigned F-150 offers for 2021.

Redesigned you said? Well yes, but it’s still instantly recognizable. This is indeed what Ford's big brains wanted because the market studies were clear: “Revise our F-150 but don't change it!”.

And revisions there are. According to Ford, no part of the 2021 F-150's body would fit on a previous model. And that body, remember, is all of aluminum!

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What hasn't changed is the F-150's imposing catalog of mix-and-match combinations, with five wheelbase lengths, three cab types, three body lengths, six different finishes (not including the spectacular Raptor version), six engines (if you add the new EcoBoost 3.5 hybrid combination), etc. On the other hand, there is only one transmission, the 10-speed automatic. And of course, you can go for rear-wheel drive only or four-wheel drive on command.

Add to that a completely redesigned interior. Recall that the most recent F-150 was already five years old, which can be a long time in a field as competitive as that of the pickup truck. Ford designers had to go back to the drawing board and redesign the dashboard to accept an optional 12-inch screen and new accessory layouts.

Eventually, Ford of Canada will make several F-150 configurations available, but first, why not talk about what may be the most popular version on the market, a 4-door, short-bed crew-cab F-150 powered by the popular twin-turbocharged EcoBoost V6 with the 10-speed automatic transmission and two-speed transfer case.

To make it more interesting, let's add the Platinum trim. It's not the most high-falutin’ F-150 (there's the Limited trim for those who want even more luxury), but for drivers who will be using their F-150 for long trips, it’s the ideal choice.

Approaching the vehicle, you’re greeted by nifty lighting as the retractable running boards automatically deploy (they can also be opened or closed by foot via a switch on the lip). Once behind the wheel, the driver can make one of several adjustments to the steering wheel, seat and even pedals.

The interior As soon as the engine is started (via the push of a button), the instrument cluster lights up and on it you can get the speedometer and engine tachometer to display in very large numbers, eliminating the need for a head-up display in the windshield.

The huge 12-inch screen in our test vehicle is used for the radio (with Bang and Olufsen sound system) and for the navigation system or, more importantly, for the many features now available on an F-150. At this level, it would take a novelette to explain everything that's on the screen, including the driving aids and the multiple views of the vehicle thanks to Ford's Co-Pilot 360 application, which can be found in the new, much more advanced SYNC 4 package. I liked the possibility of activating the front and rear cameras of the vehicle, especially for parking.

The huge console in the centre of the cabin includes a large storage area and useful cup holders. There's also the shifter which, in the case of this Platinum, folds into the console with the push of a button, allowing the console opening panels to be folded flat, forming a work table or, in my case, a dining table!

Another interesting accessory is that the luxury version of this F-150 has front seats that recline backwards 180 degrees allowing you to sleep in them.

Besides that, do I have to tell you how spacious the interior is, including the rear passenger compartment? Also, there are additional storage spaces hidden under the rear seats (which can be folded down for easy transport of valuables).

The bed Normally, this part of a pickup truck doesn't warrant a whole paragraph to describe it; suffice to know its its depth and load capacity. However, in the case of this Ford F-150 Platinum, it's a different story. Obviously, the floor is flat and there’s enough room between the wheel wells to carry the yardstick 4 x 8 panel flat. There are also tie-down hooks.

But just as Ford's designers looked to make life easier for travelers with an interior that offers so many comforts and amenities, they also thought of the do-it-yourselfers and especially the contractors by adding some useful accessories to the rear section. For one the Platinum's rear panel can be opened via remote control; for two, I noted that it has two rulers printed on it, one in metric and the other in English, a cup holder, a flat pencil holder to prevent them from rolling out of the panel, notches to attach retention clips and even a bottle opener!

On the left side of the bed, there are power outlets, which work with the engine running. Very practical for using a saw or watching a big TV (when camping). Available with all models, this system is 2.0 kWh. With the hybrid version of the F-150, this Pro Power system will be able to make 2.4 kWh or 7.2 kWh. I promise myself a whole series of tests of various devices when an F-150 Hybrid so equipped becomes available.

A whole range of mechanical options As mentioned above, the new F-150 is available with one of six engines. The smallest is the 3.3L V6, which is aimed at commercial and industrial users. Next is the 2.7L EcoBoost V6, which is a favorite of F-150 owners with simpler needs. Then there's the 3.0L PowerStroke turbodiesel V6 that should appeal to those who need to use their F-150 intensively. The twin-turbocharged 3.5L EcoBoost V6 is the one that powered my test vehicle.  

For 2021, it gains 25 hp to deliver 400 with 500 lb-ft of torque. It comes with the electric motor for the hybrid version. With the auto transmission, the 3.5L EcoBoost can pull trailers with a maximum of 14,000 lb (with the rear-wheel drive version), making it the champion of its class. Quite impressive. My F-150 Platinum had a bed capacity of over 2000 lb.

By the way, F-150s with a towing package come with a feature that makes backing up with a trailer easier. All you have to do is apply the checkerboard decals to the trailer arrow and turn on the system, which is connected to a control on the dashboard. When you put the vehicle in reverse, the rearview camera sends the image to the screen and the driver only has to steer the trailer and the truck by turning the rotary control without touching the steering wheel.

Finally, don't forget that the 5.0L V8 remains in the catalog, which reassures drivers who still think that a turbocharged engine is fragile.

A note here on the suspension. Ford insists on keeping the F-150's rear-axle leaf spring suspension, while competitors like the Ram have switched to multi-link with coil springs, which makes the Ram a more comfortable vehicle. Our test F-150 was equipped with Hankook i*Pike RW-11 winter tires.

On the road More than one vehicle enthusiast buys an F-150 not only for its practicality, but also because it's an excellent travel companion. Fuel consumption is relatively modest and its performance is amazing. The F-150 is not a race car or a sports car. But knowing that it can race from a stop to 100 km/h in less than seven seconds is reassuring... as is its passing ability.

Once on the highway, the ride is smooth and comfortable despite the fact that the rear suspension means that some road imperfections can cause the truck to react, though without much consequence. The steering is neither loose nor all that precise. It's ideal for long trips.

Of course, visibility is excellent and, despite its imposing size, the F-150 is so easy to drive. We like the large mirrors in addition to the adaptive cruise control and the CoPilot 360 driver assistance system, which could eventually be modified to allow for automated driving.

The situation gets a little more complicated in urban conditions. The vehicle, as you might expect, is bulky, and even more so when it comes to parking. This is where the front and rear cameras come in handy. It's also possible to order a parking assistance system to help the driver place the vehicle correctly or even help him get out of a tight spot.

With its FX4 equipment, it's also an all-terrain vehicle... to a point. We've actually tried it several times in the past, and offer thanks for the protective plates underneath the vulnerable mechanical components. Switching between low and high range 4x4s is as simple as turning a rotary control on the dashboard. Contractors who need to get to muddy job sites will appreciate the FX4's off-road capabilities, while the automatic 4WD feature is reassuring on snowy or icy roads.

As for fuel economy, my week behind the wheel of this F-150 EcoBoost ended with an average of 15.0L/100 km at the pump while the trip computer read 14.6L (Energuide Canada reports an average of 12.0L/100 km).

Base Ford F-150s start at $33,429. However, you'll have to pay $80,775 for the Platinum version. Our tester had $4,600 worth of options, and you have to add the $1,900 shipping and preparation fee to arrive at the final tally of $87,325... plus taxes. And it's still not the most expensive F-150! Remember, the Limited trim surpasses it.

The number of details small and large that Ford has added to its F-150 is long, and you can bet that the competition is taking notes. Meanwhile, Ford's designers are hard at work fine-tuning the final details of the electric F-150.

Its power Its versatility Its comfort and quiet ride

We like it less

Its size in urban situations Its increasingly high price The less precise rear leaf spring suspension

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Ford 3.5L EcoBoost Engine Specs, Problems & Reliability

Ford 3.5L EcoBoost Info

The 3.5L EcoBoost is a 3.5-liter V6 gasoline direct-injected and turbocharged engine, firstly introduced in 2007 under the name TwinForce. The main idea behind this power unit was the creation of a solid alternative to a large-displacement V8 engine, such as the V8 coyote sourced engine. The new turbocharged 3.5L V6 engine provides equivalent power and torque to a naturally aspirated 6.0L V8 with less fuel consumption and emissions of harmful substances to air. Since the start of production in 2009 and further extension of using this engine in Ford's vehicles, the popular platform for this V6 engine became Ford's top-seller - the Ford F-150. And this is not surprising, because EcoBoost F150s have a cheaper price with no disadvantages of small displacement, NA 6-cylinder engines, compared to V8 F150s. Let's take an in-depth look at the 3.5 EcoBoost engine design, its common problems, reliability, and longevity.

Ford 3.5L EcoBoost Overview

The 3.5 EcoBoost is built around the Duratec 35 (Ford Cyclone V6 engine) engine block with the same bore and stroke dimensions. The EcoBoost block is all aluminum and an open-deck design with high strength steel sleeves. The engine is equipped with forged steel I-beam connecting rods and forged steel crankshaft with 6-bolt main bearing caps. High-strength aluminum and CNC machined pistons have low friction coating on the piston skirt and piston top shape specially designed for efficient combustion. The cylinder block got oil jets spraying oil on the underside of the pistons to keep them cool and strong. An oil pan is also aluminum.

3.5L EcoBoost cylinder heads are aluminum with four valves per cylinder, pent-roof combustion chambers, centrally located spark plugs (iridium spark plugs), and two overhead camshafts. GDI fuel injectors are placed below-center of the intake valves. The diameter of intake and exhaust valves is 37 mm (1.456 inches) and 31 mm (1.220 inches). The valvetrain has polished solid buckets - Direct-Acting Mechanical Bucket (DAMB). Camshafts are driven by a single primary chain. Ford also applied Twin Independent Variable Camshaft Timing (Ti-VCT) on this engine. The intake camshaft from the driver's side has an additional lobe driving a high-pressure fuel pump of the direct fuel injection system. The pump delivers fuel pressures up to 2150 psi.

The key component that provides excellent performance is a turbocharger. The 3.5 EcoBoost uses twin parallel mounted Borg Warner K03 turbochargers for truck version and Garrett GT15 for other applications. They are smaller, variable-vane, high-pressure turbos allowing peak torque faster (at just 2,500 rpm), and reducing turbo lag. Ninety percent of its peak torque is between 1,550 and 5,500 rpm. Turbochargers are attached to high strength cast iron low internal volume exhaust manifolds. After turbochargers, exhaust gases go through fast cat-converters to keep emissions low. The intake manifold, charge pipes, and stock intercooler end tanks are made of plastic.

The engine also features modern electronic components: Coil-On-Plug (COP) distributorless electronic ignition system, advanced Bosch engine computer unite, high accuracy knock sensors, IAT sensors, MAP sensors, wideband O2 sensors, etc.

The Second Generation of the 3.5 EcoBoost Engine

In 2017, Ford has revised the design of the 3.5L EcoBoost and a new more powerful version became available for the 2017 F-150, 2018 Expedition, and 2018 Navigator. The upgraded engine received a number of changes, but the most noticeable of them is the addition of multi-port fuel injection and new turbochargers. The operation of multi-port fuel injection is combined with direct injection. It covers a raised fuel output needs but also prevents a carbon buildup on the intake valves, keeping the engine on the same level of performance during a long mileage. New Borg Warner turbocharger has turbine wheel made of MAR-M-247 super alloy and electrically actuated wastegate reducing turbocharger lag even more.

The new 3.5 EcoBoost is equipped with a two primary chain system (there is one separate timing chain driving each cylinder bank). The cam chain drive sprocket on the crankshaft is a double gear arrangement. New chains are also more durable and less prone to stretch due to an increased thickness of the side plates. Cylinder heads now have a roller-finger follower valvetrain and light hollow camshafts. All these changes are aimed at reducing friction and mechanical losses. And finally, the compression ratio was increased from 10.0:1 to 10.5:1 (excluding H.O.).

Engine Specs

3.5 ecoboost problems and reliability.

Is the 3.5 EcoBoost a good engine? Overall, the 3.5-liter EcoBoost has proven itself on the good side in terms of reliability. So many EcoBoost engines delivered hundreds of thousands of miles without a single breakdown and still going. But no engine is perfect. Let's try to highlight common problems and failures, as well as discuss the overall reliability of the 3.5 EcoBoost.

The Most Common 3.5 EcoBoost Problems

A few of the most common problems on the 3.5 EcoBoost engine include:

• Timing chain problems
• Carbon Build-Up
• Spark plugs and ignition coils longevity issue

Ford 3.5 EcoBoost Timing Chain Problems

This issue primarily affects first-gen 3.5 EcoBoost engines from 2010-2014, and it is about stretching the timing chain. The most common symptoms that may indicate timing chain-related issues are the following: cold start rattle, drivability issues, check engine light, and DTC P0016 fault code. Turbocharged engines are very aggressive to the engine oil. A significant contribution to the durability of these engines is following the recommendation of oil change intervals (and even shortening them). In addition to a faulty timing chain, worn-out oil can damage the 3.5 EcoBoost timing chain guides, tensioners, and cam phasers.

Replacing the timing chain and other components is labor-intensive and not an easy and cheap job. The part costs can also add up. But if an issue does pop up, it is recommended that you replace the entire timing chain assembly. Ford did issue a service bulletin for these problems, and you may be able to work with Ford even if you are out of warranty.

3.5 EcoBoost Carbon Build-Up

Like the first problem mentioned above, this issue with carbon build-up is primarily a concern on the first-gen 3.5 EcoBoost. The following issue is common to all engines with direct fuel injection - a carbon build-up on the backside of the intake valves and on the walls of the intake ports. While port injection systems inject fuel before intake valves and help wipe off the oil deposits and prevent it's accumulating, direct-injected engines suffer from a lack of a natural cleaning process in the intake. Over time, carbon deposits build up and restrict airflow into the cylinders. That leads to loss of power, increased fuel consumption, rough idle, engine misfires, and stuttering or hesitation. The second-gen 3.5 EcoBoost utilizes both direct and port injection, and it's less prone to valve carbon build-up problems.

It is worth noting that not all 1st gen 3.5 EcoBoost engines suffer from this issue. Some engines go their whole lives strong without having any intake valve cleaning. But if the carbon deposits become excessive, the job of blasting the intake ports is not exactly cheap. Overall, the carbon build-up cleaning to be good maintenance to complete every 70,000 to 100,000 miles.

Spark plugs and ignition coils longevity

Ford 3.5l ecoboost reliability summary.

But still, is the Ford 3.5 EcoBoost engine reliable? There are no reasons to say it's not. There aren't too many common problems that pop up on these engines. Summarizing all of the above, the 3.5 EcoBoost is a reliable engine with an excellent balance of power, torque, and efficiency. As you may see, Ford learned their small mistakes and did a great job fixing them on the 2nd-gen engines. So, most of the reliability problems are associated only with the first-gen 3.5 EcoBoost.

Keep it in mind, turbo engines do add a bit of extra maintenance. Based on independent research, the Ford 3.5 twin-turbo V6s have good longevity and last up to 200,000 miles or beyond if owners precisely follow the maintenance schedule, use the recommended oil, and nip problems in the bud.

Ford Engines

• 1.0L EcoBoost I-3 Engine
• 1.5L EcoBoost GTDI I-4 Engine
• 1.6L Duratec TI-VCT Engine
• 1.6L Duratorq DLD-416 TDCI Engine
• 1.6L EcoBoost GTDI Engine
• 2.0L Duratec HE Engine
• 2.0L EcoBoost GTDI Engine
• 2.3L EcoBoost Engine
• 2.7L EcoBoost Engine
• 3.0L Power Stroke Engine
• 3.5L Duratec/Ti-VCT Engine
• 3.7L V6 Duratec/Ti-VCT Engine
• 4.6L 2/3/4-valve V8 Engine
• 5.0L V8 Coyote Engine
• 5.4L V8 Triton Engine
• 6.0L Power Stroke Engine
• 6.4L Power Stroke Engine
• 6.7L Power Stroke Engine

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A Complete Guide to a Fully-Built 3.5L Ecoboost Long-Block [Infographic]

Here is the journey of the fully built engine that my vehicle will be running. Although I’m totally capable of building an engine myself, I decided to go with an outside builder for a number of reasons.  The main one is time…it’s just a premium for me and a project like this would’ve taken me quite a while. Likely even longer than the 6 months it took to get it to this point.

Check this quick link shortcut menu for any new updates!

It arrives!!!!! November 1st, 2020

• Update: December 17th, 2020…an early Christmas?
• Update: April 15th, 2021…just plugging away…
• Update: April 25th, 2021…trouble in paradise!
• Update: May 25th, 2021…I love gooooooooooooollldddddddddd…

This has been a long time in the making and I finally received it the other day.  Although I have brought it up in passing on various social media platforms and sometimes eluded to it, this project I’ve generally held close to the chest…for a number of reasons.  Some of you may already know so it isn’t the biggest surprise, but it’s for sure the biggest step for this journey I’m on right now.

I started talking with Ryan over at RMB Motorworks about a year ago.  Trust me, I’ve read all the stuff on the internet about some people’s experiences, both good and bad. Most of what I got was pretty positive and I always take negative press with a grain of salt.  Got to know him pretty well before I decided to pull the trigger on this and I’m glad I went with his him on this.  He’s a great guy and knows what he’s talking about. Anyway, here’s some photo’s of the build process as it progressed:

Heads off an SHO that had virtually no miles on it.  As you can see, they were in great shape before they were even touched with any head work:

They were sent off to Headgames Motorworks to get some love.  Namely their Pocket Port-R.  What is that you ask?  Well, here’s a quick blurb on it:

Should be able to get a bit more timing out of this thing now:

Stock cams.  Didn’t have anything done to them.  A custom grind was outta my budget, lol:

Brand new block, before it got sent out for the closed deck process:

Back from CSS with  the deck closed off:

JE pistons before getting some Calico Coating love:

Skirt coating:

Thermal top coating:

These conrods are sexy AF! A set of Boostline conrods to push those pistons around:

Some ring gap measuring:

The centerpiece of all this…a Ford F-150 Raptor crankshaft:

Main bearings:

And some more lovely cross-hatch machining:

The King main bearings installed:

Checking end play:

And more clearance checking:

Completed short block:

Oil Pan, pickup tube and oil pump housing installed.  Can’t forget the WPC treated Boundary oil pump gear installed inside that housing:

And some relentless engine assembly porn:

9And finally, arrival day! Thank you, Ryan, for all the great work to this point. I got it from here…

So, next step will be an engine stand sometime this week.  Then it will sit for a bit until I tackle the intercooler dilemma on the current engine.  I want to work all the bugs out on the engine I have sitting in the car now, so I’ll be mostly dialed in when the new motor goes in!

Stay tuned…

BUILD SHEET (not all inclusive):

New OEM Short Block

• CSS Closed Deck
• Boostline Connecting Rods
• ARP2000 Connecting Rod Bolts
• JE FS3 10:1 CR Pistons (CT3 sideskirt coating, Calico ceramic top coating)
• King XP Main Bearings
• King XPValves Connecting Rod Bearings
• OEM Ford Raptor Gen2 Crankshaft

New OEM Cylinder Heads

• Headgames Motorsports Pocket Port-R
• New OEM Valves (back-cut)
• ARP2000 Head Studs
• Titanium BeeHive Valve Springs/Retainers
• MLS Head Gaskets w/Integrated Fire Ring

And all the latest Ford iterations of accessory parts (chains, sprockets, guides, etc).

Lastly, I was dismayed to find that there is no way to remove the lower coolant pipe that sits in the valley between the heads with the engine assembled. It’s disappointing because I wanted to give it the same treatment I gave the upper intake coolant pipe…coated and insulated. Once the heads are on, because of the small branch-off pipe of the main coolant pipe, it won’t fit out of the heads. Ugh…well, it’s the one that got away…

EDIT: Turns out you CAN remove the pipe with the heads on, you just need to remove the knock sensor closest to the thermostat in the “valley”. Look here for more info on that.

UPDATE: December 17th, 2020…an early Christmas?

Things have been slow going, but I finally got the engine onto an engine stand…you might find it interesting, LOL.

Well here’s the fancy engine stand I ended up getting.  Sunex 8300GB, 1/2 ton stand with oil drip pan.  I wanted one with an actual gear-reduced crank handle because, well…I’m lazy, LOL:

Before mounting it onto the engine stand, I wanted to take care of the parts behind the mounting plate so it wouldn’t be an issue later. That meant installing the timing sprocket as well as the flexplate…

And for those wondering what this shiny orange flexplate is all about…I’ll let bpd1511 of the SHO forums elaborate.  All the credit goes to him for getting that brought to market!

And even more entertaining is my engine hoist:

My Kubota BX25…how you like THEM apples? LOL

Got a hold of some metric Grade 12.9 (yes, it’s a thing) hardware.  I custom-made some stainless sleeves to take up the slack in the larger diameter engine stand brackets.  Makes for a super tight fit and no “slop”.

Everything has anti seize on it! Sleeves and all…

Getting it loosely mounted:

I like to get the center line of the crankshaft lined up with the center rotation point of the engine stand.

And mounted!

Rotated…just because I can…

And finally, all tucked away for the time being:

UPDATE: April 15th, 2021…just plugging away…

So for the past few months, I’ve been slowly completing assembly of the long block as it sits on the engine stand. Just slowly bolting parts up to it. I’ve basically bought 100% all brand new OEM FoMoCo parts for this and the goal is to have, in essence, a crate motor, ready to bolt up when the time comes…

So if you remember from earlier, I was pretty upset that I was not able to remove that lower coolant pipe without removing the heads. Well, it was buggin’ me so much, I decided to revisit this and see what I could find. It really happened when I was reading something in the factory manual about the knock sensors…

Turns out…that lower coolant pipe CAN be removed without taking a head off! You just need to remove the center knock sensor. Then, it’s a threading game weaving it between the intake runners to get it out. It’s a very tight fit and the pipe really wedges through it, but it will come out. It made me realize why the branch-off pipe is flattened in it’s center…so it can be threaded between the heads.

Now with it removed, I gave it the same treatment I gave the upper one…ceramic coat, pipe insulation and heat wrap…

It wasn’t a straight piece of pipe, so the bends were a bit tricky, luckily, the insulation tape did a great job of hiding everything, as well as helping keep everything in place.

The short section is for the branch-off pipe. It will be have to be slipped on once the pipe is installed because that branch-off pipe fits tight during installation.

Here is the pipe when finally installed back onto the engine. It was a royal pain in the ass to get that knock sensor back on with all that insulation on, but I didn’t let it discourage me.

Now, with that piece done, I pressed on with assembling more of the engine. Beginning with the timing cover and all the components behind it.

Using legit, FoMoCo TA-357 engine sealant (it’s what is recommended and I’d stick with it, it’s been said other stuff can cause the oil to foam up…no bueno) and a DeWalt DCE560 caulking gun (this made life way easier)…

…I applied sealant as recommended by the manual. It goes on a bit thicker at places where the engine side has seams (oil pan to block, heads to block, etc.).

Once that was done, started installing a few other parts.

A bunch of other OEM components to include the crank pulley and front main seal. Here’s a long boring video of some engine assembly (LOL).

I also installed an Improved Racing ENV-131-T6 200deg thermostatic oil cooler adapter. It’s got -10AN IN/OUT lines. I will be installing an external oil cooler as well as transmission cooler on this thing when it’s finally sitting in the engine. Also, installed the Amsoil EA017 oil filter again. Love the larger size and it’s a great quality filter.

UPDATE: April 25th, 2021…trouble in paradise.

Noticed big problems a few weeks ago, but just got it addressed and installed today.

So…it came to my realization when I attempted to install my valve covers on earlier in the month that there was some fitment issue. For some reason, the composite valve cover would not seat properly around the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) pedestal.

After removing it and conducting some investigations, it dawned on me that I may have a pretty serious issue at hand…the pedestal for the one I have was the incorrect one. Though these heads were low mileage heads when I had Ryan work them, they were still off of a 2013 3.5L ecoboost. This build was all based off of a 2015 installation. Now, that isn’t TOO much of an issue as the right hand head part number was identical, but it was the left hand one that was different. See, in 2013 the valve covers were aluminum:

And in 2015, Ford updated those to composite:

There are a few differences. Externally, the EVAP inlet tube sits higher up on the newer valve cover. And there is also an extra valve cover bolt in the area where the HPFP sits. But the real issue was internally. Functionally, the heads are no different between the years, however, the pedestal for the HPFP has a slightly different profile as well as a clocking notch machined into it on the newer heads. Don’t ask me why Ford only changed the left side head and not the right side head…I’m sure there’s a reason, though.

If you notice, the pedestal has a different height shoulder, and the higher shoulder on the 2013 is what was digging into the 2015 valve cover…this was a pretty major dilemma. Was there anyone to blame? I can’t blame Ryan, he showed me these heads before he got them to get my blessing and I have to say, he’s an F150/Raptor ecoboost genius but hasn’t done as many transverse versions, and the subtle differences can be a lot. I wouldn’t expect anyone to know every tiny difference between every model and year between those models. So what are my options:

• Change to a newer style. This was out of the questions as I had headwork done on these heads…too much trouble and cost.
• Change the valve cover to the aluminum ones. I didn’t like this option for a few reasons. The newer configuration was slightly different on the right-hand cover, but the left hand cover had an external PCV system on the older ones and I didn’t want to change to the older style covers, though this was a viable option, it would be my last resort.
• Just use a pedestal off a newer model. This wasn’t a good option for a few reasons. One, it’s impossible to get this part by itself new, you’d have to go to a junkyard and find one. Two, more importantly, this part actually holds down the camshaft and since there is no sleeve bearing to fit, it has been line-bored to fit this camshaft assembly. I would have to remove a bunch of stuff and have the entire assembly re-line-bored. No go on this option…
• Machine the existing one to match the newer style. This was the best option and the one I used. It allowed me to reuse the existing pedestal and after very careful and in-depth comparison between the two styles, it became clear to me that Ford simply shaved the shoulder down and added the notch in order to ensure they would never be clocked incorrectly. I decided to just go for it…

This is how it started out…

Took it to a machinist friend of mine who put it on the mill to get the shoulder down.

As you can see, there turned out to be some porosity in the casting, and at probably the worst place. We made sure to machine the radius into it to minimize any issues. I am pretty confident it will be just fine. Onto the notch…had it machined out as well.

And finally getting it installed back onto the head.

Since the older heads didn’t have that bolt hole, it could possibly cause issues, so I decided to at least add some sealant at that point. Again, I’m pretty confidant it will be just fine.

I wanted to also add that, before I installed the valve covers, I did remove some of the unnecessary studded valve cover bolts. They get in the way I feel and I’ve seen them chafe wires as well, so I figured out which ones weren’t needed and I replaced them. Similar to the one that I replaced during the fuel injector installation .

Here is the part I used, I think I used about 7 total.

And here is a brief video showing how I replaced them. Also shows the valve covers being installed, even though…at this point in the write-up, I haven’t gotten to it (video was edited after much of this was done).

This is the valve cover bolt hole that will not be utilized. Relying on the sealant instead. Fingers crossed.

Definitely not the best thing to happen here, but I’ve got warm and fuzzies that this will work just fine…

After I finally got the valve covers on, I moved onto installing the spark plugs and coil packs.

UPDATE: May 25th, 2021…I love gooooooooooooollldddddddddd…

So i started doing some insulation work while I also continue to install all the OEM exterior engine parts that would make this into my crate motor. Started with the turbo oil drain lines:

To achieve this, I used some silicon-coated sleeving from McMaster:

But the sleeving isn’t enough for me…lol.

Next up was the wiring harness for the injector rails.

With the harnesses complete, time to move onto the fuel rail assembly and install!

In case I didn’t mention it before, those are brand new XDI 50% injectors. Going from the 30% Gen1 injectors to the newer 50% Gen2 style.

For the fuel rail/injector installation process, check out this link .

As you can see, I have the ignition coils installed. I decided to return to OEM ignition coils on the advice of Ryan as well as hearing how the MSD coils have a history of failing. The OEM ones provide more than enough spark, no need to fix whats not broke. I did like the red “look” though. I am still using the Brisk RR14YS plugs though, I really like them.

So I started insulating the turbo oil feed lines as well.

I removed the OEM flexible insulation section and replaced it with a section of DEI wiring insulation. The hard pipe section I insulated the same way I did the drain lines. Silicon-coated sleeving then gold reflecting DEI tape.

From there I moved onto installing the exhaust manifold studs. I dislike the OEM ones because they seemed to rust through pretty bad and then can become difficult to remove if needed.

So I decided to go with some ARP stainless steel ones. These are actually ARPs high strength stainless alloy studs and nuts, so you can apply more torque to these than standard 18-8, 304 or 316 stainless.

What I also decided to give an additional layer of insulation to was the heat shield for the left-hand turbo. It protects the wiring between the turbo and the engine block. It was just plain aluminum before this.

Here’s how it sits as of now, with the heat shielding done up to this point as well as the exhaust manifold studs installed.

Alternator…

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3.0 powerstroke or 3.5 eco boost?

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I am in the market for a new f150. So far I’m seeing a 2018 powerstroke platinum with 55k miles for $40k. Or a 2017 3.5 ecoboost with 95k miles for $34k. Any thoughts would be great on the better choice. Thanks in advance.  

What are your plans for using the truck? Towing? If so what and how heavy? Also, consider fuel cost long term. I am unfamiliar with the diesel so did a quick search and found this interesting short read https://www.kbb.com/reviews/2018-ford-f-150-diesel-first-review/  

I’ve never owned a 3.0L, but I’ve always been interested. Like @Boatwaco mentioned, what are you using it for? If you drive a lot of highway and put on miles then you may see the benefit of the diesel MPG, especially depending on the cost of fuel. If you aren’t deleted and keep the emissions intact, you’ll have DEF and other costs associated with emissions repairs when failures occur. You’ll also have to deal with the CP4 HPFP if you ever run into an issue and while the failures may not occur very often, they still happen and aren’t cheap to repair. I’ve heard otherwise they’re fairly solid. I’ve personally driven a lot of miles in 3.5L trucks (and other fords) over the last 6 years and I’ve always been content with them. Pricing is starting to come down heavy, in my part of the country at least. I’ve seen 3.5L Platinums (2018 and up) in the low to mid 40’s with fairly low mileage in the 30K-50K range and even ‘21 and up used Lariats in the low $50K range with 20-40K miles.  

What part of the country are you in if you don’t mind me asking? Prices are still fairly high here in Kentucky. I will mainly be using the truck for commuting to work. Occasionally pulling, but nothing major. I’m mainly concerned about durability and highest mileage.  

If your towing light and using it lots on the highway diesel all the way. Mpg benefit will be there. Short trips and towing heavy get the Ecoboost.  

My only worry with the 3.0 is that they sold like 10 of them and they are now discontinued. I kinda wonder how well they will support them moving forward as far as replacement parts and stuff. I bet it pulls fairly well, but if you are really pushing it hard(towing a travel trailer in extreme conditions or something) then I could see it not being as good as the ecoboost  

mass-hole said: My only worry with the 3.0 is that they sold like 10 of them and they are now discontinued Click to expand...

Local 87 AKI is $2.689, ULSD is $4.299. My 2.7EB has averaged 22 MPG at mostly 60 MPH for 60 miles (actually indicates 29 MPG at 60 MPH). The diesel would have to get 35 MPG to equal the EcoBoost in cost per mile, not considering the extra cost of the Powerstroke option, or the extra cost of maintenance. There is a good reason Ford discontinued the 3.0L Powerstroke.  

No way I'd touch the diesel when you can have an easy 400+ wheel in an ecoboost and not have all the emissions garb. Definitely look for something with less than 95k miles though.  

For those prices, if keep driving what I had. $34k for something without a warranty? I know these are weird times, but wow. My 2013 out the door was less than that new. The baby power stroke is trash, it's a revamped early 2000s design. Other reviewers have noted it's slow and tows like it's missing power. As for mpg, epa doesn't rate a 4x4 much higher than a 2.7.  

Justinjs said: For those prices, if keep driving what I had. $34k for something without a warranty? I know these are weird times, but wow. My 2013 out the door was less than that new. The baby power stroke is trash, it's a revamped early 2000s design. Other reviewers have noted it's slow and tows like it's missing power. As for mpg, epa doesn't rate a 4x4 much higher than a 2.7. Click to expand...

Yeah. I see a number of Ecodiesels and a lot of 3.0 Duramax. I bet the 3.0 duramax makes up close to 50% of the Silverados around here. I believe the Ecodiesel may be gone from the Ram 1500 as well after this year though.  

My opinion - broaden your search online, utilizing the preowned sellers who can deliver any vehicle anywhere. Find a 2018+ 3.5l that fits your budget and has a clean CARFAX and documentation of service records. Buy and drive!  

With Carfax I also like seeing a good service history too.  

Nearby Walmart this afternoon: $2.699 for 87 AKI $4.599 for ULSD, went up 30¢  

In south Florida yesterday 2.75 for 93 premium at Costco. (In all rareness this was bc they were out of regular) I was on E and happy with my 36 gal tank Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

Do those last two posts belong over in the gas prices thread?  

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mountune High Performance 3.5L F-150 Raptor Short Block

SKU: 6000-SB-350

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Mountune's extensive knowledge of the Ford EcoBoost engines coupled with our comprehensive motorsport experience provides the foundation for our high performance 3.5L Ford EcoBoost short block assembly.

Each short block starts off as a brand new aluminum Ford F-150 Raptor open deck engine block which can be strengthened with the  Cylinder Support System before being skillfully assembled with mountune forged pistons, forged h-beam connecting rods, tri-metal racing bearings, and a forged crankshaft all balanced to motorsport standards.

This engine is the perfect foundation for your F-150 Raptor for high boost applications or as a direct replacement for your tired original engine.

Installation Guides

Find the important information you need to install this engine into your build, as well as our recommended break-in procedure.

Additional Information:

Engine specifications.

• Product Code: 6000-SB-350
• Base Engine: 3.5L Ford Ecoboost
• Bore x Stroke: Ø 92.5 mm x 86.6 mm
• Compression Ratio: 10:1
• Piston: Upgraded Forged Piston
• Connecting Rod: Mountune Forged H Beam Rod
• Crankshaft: OEM Ford Raptor Crankshaft
• Main Bearing: Mountune Race Tri-Metal
• Main Bolts: OEM High-Tensile Strength
• Application: F-150 Raptor 2017-2020 and all Gen2 powered trucks

Cylinder Support System

The Cylinder Support System is a proven method of strengthening open deck engine blocks while maintaining OEM integrity. The support ring is made from aircraft grade 6061-T6 aluminum. It prevents cylinder cracking, walking, and bell mouthing.

Warranty Coverage

Mountune is confident in our products and services and we proudly stand behind our workmanship. Therefore, we offer a limited warranty against defects in workmanship or materials, covering both parts and labor, for a standard period of 1-Year/12,000-Miles. For more information see, terms & conditions .

PARTS INTENDED FOR COMPETITION USE ONLY Click here for more details.

PROPOSITION 65 WARNING Click here for more details.

Engines built to order, estimated build time is currently 10-12 weeks.

Please note, that there may be circumstances that may delay the build process including (but not limited to) part shortages and backorders beyond our control.

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