saudi tourism forum 2023

Riyadh hosts first Saudi Tourism Forum March 14-16

In partnership with the “ Saudi Tourism Authority ”, the first edition of the “Saudi Tourism Forum” will be launched, which is scheduled to be held in Riyadh under the slogan “Your Gateway to Tourism”, during the period from (14-16) March at the Riyadh International Convention and Exhibition Center, with the participation of 350 brands.

The forum aims to contribute to the growth and sustainability of the national tourism sector, establish a main meeting point, and provide opportunities for direct communication and exchange of information, in addition, to strengthening relations with the main partners in the travel and tourism sectors.

It will also contribute to promoting Saudi destinations, programs, experiences, packages, and tourism products to visitors from inside and outside the Kingdom.

The forum will enhance the attraction of regional and international tourists to national destinations; experience Saudi hospitality, authentic heritage, vibrant culture, and stunning landscapes that stretch from the heights of Abha to the shores of the Red Sea to the shifting sands of the Empty Quarter desert.

The CEO and member of the Board of Directors of the Saudi Tourism Authority, Fahd Hamid Al-Din, delivered a speech on this occasion in which he welcomed all the partners of the Saudi tourism system.

He highlighted the huge leaps achieved by Saudi tourism , thanks to the support of wise leadership and the integration of the roles of the Ministry of Tourism, the Saudi Tourism Authority, and the Tourism Development Fund.

Al-Din also stressed the importance of this forum; Calling on partners from the tourism sector to cooperate with tourist destinations, and royal commissions, and to make the most of the “Saudi Spirit” and “Nusk” platforms run by the Saudi Tourism Authority, and what they offer in terms of marketing their products at the local and international levels.

He also ensured knowledge of consumer requirements, building partnerships, and exchanging information, visions, and ideas; to develop products that meet the desires of visitors, and directly affect the development and drive business growth.

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Cruise Saudi Joins Saudi Tourism Forum

• March 17, 2023

Cruise Saudi is joining the Saudi Tourism Tourism and participated in the recent 2023 conference, held in Riyadh as a gold sponsor of the event, according to a press release.

Officially launched in 2021, Cruise Saudi aims to develop the infrastructure and services required to scale the cruise market in Saudi Arabia. The c100% Public Investment Fund-owned business is responsible for the port development and operation at crucial locations in Saudi Arabia, as well as scaling cruise services including marketing, Shorex coordination and ship operations. 

Based in Jeddah, Cruise Saudi collaborates with ministries and regulatory authorities to build the offshore and onshore cruise ecosystem to position the country as a premier global cruise destination. The company has completed two successful seasons so far, welcoming over 50,000 travelers and five major international cruise lines.

Cruise Saudi’s goal is to further develop the country’s ports and open more destinations to cruise tourism. The company plans on welcoming 1.3 million cruise passenger visits by 2035. Cruise Saudi operates in alignment with the Saudi’s Vision 2030 plan to diversify the economy and develop new revenue-generating industries, tourism included.

Cruise Saudi invites international cruise lines to include Saudi as a port of call on their voyages with destinations across the country featuring rich cultural heritage, history, and natural wonders. Saudi is home to six UNESCO World Heritage Sites which have never been included on cruise itineraries before or seen by international guests. Three of these sites can be reached by sea: AlAhsa Oasis, Hegra Archaeological site in AlUla, and Historic Jeddah, the Gate to Makkah.

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Cruise saudi joins saudi tourism forum

Cruise Saudi participated as a gold sponsor in the recent Saudi Tourism Forum 2023 , held in Riyadh between 14-16 March this year. A 100% Public Investment Fund-owned business, Cruise Saudi works hand in hand with ministries and regulatory authorities to build the offshore and onshore cruise ecosystem with the aim of positioning Saudi as a premier global cruise destination. 

Throughout the Forum, Cruise Saudi met with several public and private sector companies – an opportunity to update key industry contacts with the news and developments since Cruise Saudi launched in 2021. From the expansion of Saudi Arabia’s cruise infrastructure to the two successful completed seasons, Cruise Saudi’s rapid expansion in this vital sector has worked alongside the Kingdom’s Vision 2030 as an engine to drive the development of tourism, and to transform the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, with its various regions and natural, historic and heritage treasures into a unique and distinctive destination on the global cruise map.

Engineer Fawaz Farouqi praised the Forum and the fruitful cooperation of all public and private parties involved in the Tourism System in providing an exceptional experience for tourists visiting the Kingdom, thus reflecting their contribution to achieve Vision 2030 goals and broaden the horizons of the Saudi cruise sector.  

Cruise Saudi also organised an awareness workshop , delivered by Mashhour Bashan, the Executive Director for Travel Experiences, on (designing tours and experiences for cruise passengers), where he focused on introducing the cruise industry, and the importance of designing tours that meet the needs of tourists, the basic requirements in tourist destinations, expectations, challenges and the opportunities available in this new industry in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

With reference to audience participation in this workshop, Mashhour Bashan explained that “the cruise sector is a new industry for the Kingdom, it provides specific services, and our role in Cruise Saudi is to develop and enable the private sector. This workshop is one of several workshops on developing the sector to attract 1.3 million passengers by 2035”. 

As a conduit between land and sea, Cruise Saudi is a strategic facilitator and a trusted partner to international and local entities that oversees the development of services and infrastructure, including state-of-the-art cruise terminals, training of ground services, and creation of shore excursions, that will transform the country’s coastlines into a premier global cruise destination. Cruise Saudi aspires to provide a seamless, comfortable, and memorable journey for guests, from arrival to departure.

Cruise Saudi was officially launched in 2021 to develop the infrastructure and services required to scale a full-suite cruise market in Saudi Arabia . The company is responsible for the port development and operation at key Saudi destinations as well as scaling cruise services, from marketing to Shorex coordination and vessel operations.  

Cruise Saudi is a 100% Public Investment Fund-owned business based in Jeddah and works hand in hand with ministries and regulatory authorities to build the offshore and onshore cruise ecosystem with the aim of positioning Saudi as a premier global cruise destination. Cruise Saudi has completed two successful seasons thus far, welcoming 50,000+ passengers and five major international cruise lines. 

Cruise Saudi aims to develop further ports around the country, opening more destinations in Saudi to cruise tourism, with plans to welcome 1.3 million cruise passenger visits by 2035. Cruise Saudi is operating within the wider context of Saudi’s Vision 2030 plan to diversify the economy and develop new revenue-generating industries such as tourism to provide opportunities for generations to come.

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JHD – Saudi Tourism Forum 2023

Jeddah historic district, brand activation.

Jeddah Historical District Company is dedicated to the renovation and preservation of the iconic "Albalad," the historic town of Jeddah. With a focus on revitalizing the rich heritage and architectural beauty of the area, the company is committed to safeguarding the cultural legacy and promoting tourism in this significant part of Jeddah.

About The Event

Jeddah Historical District Company showcased its commitment to preserving cultural heritage and promoting tourism at the 2023 Saudi Tourism Forum. With an engaging booth and dedicated hospitality, they highlighted their efforts in revitalizing the historic Al Balad area, contributing to the forum discussions and fostering connections within the tourism industry to further enhance Saudi Arabia's travel sector.

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“Your Gateway to Tourism”.. Riyadh hosts its first Saudi Tourism Forum March 14-16

Ashraf AboArafe

Riyadh – In partnership with the “Saudi Tourism Authority”, the first edition of the “Saudi Tourism Forum” will be launched, which is scheduled to be held in Riyadh under the slogan “Your Gateway to Tourism”, during the period from (14-16) March at the Riyadh International Convention and Exhibition Center. Forum on domestic tourism; One of the most promising sectors in Vision 2030, and the industry that provides opportunities for qualitative jobs, investments and economic growth that enhances the Kingdom’s international standing, amid wide local, regional and international participation of investors, experts and those involved in the travel and tourism industry.

The forum is considered the largest event in the national tourism sector, as it will provide a qualitative space for the largest Saudi and international brands in the tourism and travel sectors to interact and communicate. And find new opportunities for growth and development of their business, and will also present, in parallel, specialized and inspiring content on the latest technologies and environmental solutions that will affect the tourism industry in the future.

The “Saudi Tourism Forum” seeks to create a main meeting point, provide opportunities for direct communication, and exchange information, in addition to strengthening relations with the main partners in the “travel and tourism” sectors. It also aims to contribute to promoting Saudi destinations, programs, experiences, packages, and tourism products to companies. foreign countries, in addition to enhancing the attraction of regional and international tourists to national destinations; Experience its warm hospitality, rich heritage, vibrant culture, and stunning landscapes that stretch from the heights of Abha to the shores of the Red Sea to the shifting sands of the Empty Quarter desert.

The Saudi Tourism Authority is working with institutional and promotional plans to attract tourists from within the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, by working with partners from the government and private sectors. To contribute to the promotion of major seasons and events, tourism products and experiences to target segments of citizens and residents.

More than 350 entities specialized in Saudi tourism are scheduled to participate in the “Saudi Tourism Forum”, while the Chairman of the Organizing Committee of the Forum, CEO of the 4M Group, Eng. Hamza Nasser, explained the review of the latest trends in Saudi tourism; Through a series of discussion sessions and workshops that will discuss the most important challenges facing the tourism industry in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, as well as the opportunities available at the forum to promote destinations, services and products related to the Saudi tourism sector, and future tourism projects that the Kingdom relies on in developing this emerging industry.

The Chairman of the Organizing Committee said: “The forum will contribute directly and indirectly to the promotion of the Saudi tourism product, and the transfer of its various experiences to regional and international markets, with a broad highlight of the kingdom’s tourism potential, and the heritage, cultural, natural and civilizational diversity that characterizes it, in front of tourism experts and international tourism project managers.” .

The Saudi Tourism Authority previously launched the “Events Calendar”; Which includes all tourism and entertainment activities, events and seasons that the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is witnessing – and it is constantly updated – as the authority seeks through it to facilitate the task of tourists and visitors in planning their trips and choosing the best events, seasons and activities that suit all tastes and age groups.

It is noteworthy that tourism is one of the pillars of the Kingdom’s Vision 2030, to contribute to diversifying the base of the national economy, attracting investments, increasing sources of income, and providing job opportunities for citizens, as the sector is witnessing rapid growth thanks to plans to advance the tourism sector.

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Benefits of Attending STF

The Forum will provide you with countless networking opportunities, which will help you increase your profile in the industry and realize the full potential of your Organization.  Our business schedule was particularly designed with you in mind and covers every area of travel that is important now and in the future.

You won't find these important insights from   professionals in Saudi Tourism anywhere but at STF.

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Saudi Tourism Promotes Its All-Season Appeal With New Campaign

Peden Doma Bhutia , Skift

May 24th, 2023 at 2:00 AM EDT

When you are a destination as ambitious as Saudi Arabia with an aim to attract 100 million annual visitors by 2030, you have to emphasize year-round appeal to avoid missing out on travelers.

Peden Doma Bhutia

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Saudi Tourism Authority officially launched its seasonal campaign , Rethink Summer , aimed at promoting the country as a diverse, unique summer destination . Calling Saudi the fastest growing destination worldwide, Ahmed Al Khateeb, minister of tourism and chairman of the Saudi Tourism Authority said the campaign builds on the fact that Saudi has proved to be a yearlong destination for visitors. “Our partners in the private sector are instrumental in this campaign, offering over 1.8 million additional seats for inbound flights, more than 15,000 new hotel rooms , and over 100 products tailored to meet the taste of all our visitors this summer. This is the largest contribution of the private sector yet,” Al Khateeb said. The destination is set to hit significant milestones this year, from the opening of the first three resorts at The Red Sea , an ambitious, regenerative, luxury tourism development, to Neom’s Sindalah Island . Diriyah , the 300-year-old mud city and birthplace of Saudi also recently celebrated the welcoming of one million visitors since its opening in November.

In a bid to position itself as a prominent destination for wellness and therapy, the Ajman Department of Tourism Development has partnered with healthcare company Thumbay Group . Through this agreement, Ajman aims to exchange knowledge and expertise to support medical tourism in the emirate. According to the agreement, Ajman Tourism and Thumbay Group would collaborate to organize medical events and conferences and launch promotional campaigns. The goal is to attract more people to their medical facilities and healthcare centers. The two entities would also participate in health-related exhibitions and workshops and work together to train employees and improve competencies. Medical tourism in Ajman is witnessing a great interest from a wider segment, which in return is encouraging the tourism board to fully support this sector which can impact the overall development of the tourism industry. Last year the emirate also witnessed the opening of the Zoya Health & Wellbeing Resort , the first five-star health resort in the Middle East and Africa.

Last year, United Arab Emirates national carrier Etihad Airways achieved a 26 percent reduction in CO2 emissions per revenue tonne kilometre to 482g compared to a 2019 baseline. The carrier highlighted this in its annual sustainability report , detailing the company’s commitment to sustainability and progress towards these goals. Etihad’s sustainability strategy is based on principles of achieving emissions reductions through in-sector measures, aligning with industry voluntary roadmaps and frameworks, collaborating with UAE industrial ecosystems, remaining transparent and proactive about sustainability issues, and continually developing a strategic roadmap for targets. “We remain steadfast in our commitment to reducing our environmental impact and ensuring the sustainability of our operations. Our sustainability strategy is built on a foundation of collaboration, transparency, and innovation,” said Etihad CEO Antonoaldo Neves .

Red Sea Global , the multi-project developer behind The Red Sea and Amaala projects, has pledged that its destinations and experiences will be fully inclusive for guests with disabilities, specific needs and access requirements . The developer has pledged to ensure all guests will enjoy luxury hospitality and unique experiences — from sailing, kayaking and diving among shipwrecks and coral reefs, to exploring the inland environment and stargazing in the desert. “If we are truly going to do better by people and planet, we can’t leave anyone behind. There are approximately 1.3 billion disabled people globally. It is not only totally inexcusable for our industry to exclude so many people, but commercially short-sighted,” said John Pagano , Group CEO of Red Sea Global. Every contractor at Red Sea Global’s destinations must ensure guest experiences take a universally inclusive approach, according to Pagano. This commitment includes using new technologies — such as smart mobility and logistics — to radically enhance luxury tourism experiences for people with disabilities and their families.

Minor Hotels will be partnering with Saudi Arabia’s Tourism Development Fund to jointly develop and operate hospitality and lifestyle projects focused on mountain resorts, wellness resorts and urban hotels. The first project under this partnership is expected to be announced in the second half of this year. The partnership will see the development of multiple hospitality projects over the next couple of years with Minor Hotels as the operator and partner in each of the projects. Currently with a portfolio of 530 hotels and resorts in 56 countries across Asia Pacific, the Middle East, Europe, the Americas, Africa and the Indian Ocean , Minor Hotels’ flagship brands include Anantara, Avani, Tivoli and Oaks . The luxury brand Anantara known for its experience-led hospitality will constitute at least one of the agreed projects. With Thai roots, Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas is already well known in the Gulf region and has more than 10 properties in the United Arab Emirates, Oman and Qatar. Minor’s Avani Hotels & Resorts brand will also debut in the kingdom with multiple properties to be developed as part of the strategic partnership. The partnership will also include the development of properties within the kingdom under other Minor brands, such as Tivoli and Oaks. An industry leader in modern residential-style accommodations, Oaks Hotels, Resorts & Suites provides a home away from home for both savvy corporate travelers and leisure tourists alike.

IHG Hotels & Resorts has signed a master development agreement with Saudi Arabia-based developer Tashyid to set up 12 hotels and 2,500 keys under the Holiday Inn Express brand across Saudi Arabia . The agreement will allow IHG to expand and diversify its mainstream offering across Saudi Arabia, in line with the demand being created by initiatives under Saudi Vision 2030 . As part of the agreement, IHG has also signed the first Holiday Inn Express hotel with Tashyid for Hotels Operations Limited which will debut the brand in Jeddah by June 2025 . “ Saudi Vision 2030 has created tremendous opportunities for the tourism and hospitality industry, and we see an increasing demand for our brands across segments,” said Haitham Mattar, managing director, India, Middle East & Africa, IHG Hotels & Resorts . Holiday Inn Express is IHG’s fastest growing brand with currently over 3000 operating hotels, globally. IHG Hotels & Resorts currently operates 39 hotels across five brands in Saudi Arabia, including: InterContinental, Crowne Plaza, Holiday Inn, Staybridge Suites, and voco, with 30 hotels in the development pipeline set to open within the next three to five years.

Emirates passengers in every class of travel will now be able to enjoy some form of free internet connectivity while onboard once they sign up to the airline’s loyalty program — Emirates Skywards . The airline said it has so far invested more than $300 million into onboard connectivity and sees an average of 450,000 users per month. This represents a 30 percent increase of passenger use in 2023 versus the same period last year. Currently almost 10 percent of all passengers are utilising the complimentary onboard Wi-Fi. On routes through the Americas, almost 20 percent of passengers connect to Wi-Fi onboard, and on European and Africa routes the usage is over 11 percent of all passengers. Skywards members, whether blue, silver, gold, or platinum tier, travelling in any class, whether economy, premium economy, business or first class will enjoy free app messaging. Additionally, first class passengers will have unlimited free internet if they are Skywards members, as will silver, gold and platinum Skywards members travelling in business class. Platinum Skywards members have complimentary internet access in all classes. The airlines also announced that it will offer new high-speed, inflight broadband powered by Inmarsat’s GX Aviation, onboard 50 new Airbus A350 aircraft — scheduled to enter service in 2024.

Oman’s Qarn Alam Airport in Al Dakhiliyah Governorate will resume operations after being suspended for several months for maintenance work, said the Civil Aviation Authority. After shutting operations at Qarn Alam Airport for several months to complete maintenance work, the Civil Aviation Authority said it has issued its approval for the return of the airport’s work after carrying out an examination of the runway to ensure that it is in compliance with operational safety requirements and standards in accordance with the technical systems of civil aviation. A comprehensive examination was also conducted at the airport with the aim of renewing the airport’s operating license in accordance with the national regulations issued by the authority, the aviation authority said in a statement.

Tourism revenue for Jordan grew by 73.5 percent in April 2023 compared with the same month of 2022, reaching $543.2 million , according to data released by the Central Bank of Jordan . During the first four months of 2023, tourism revenue witnessed an 84.5 percent increase reaching $2.2 billion . The bank’s data attributed the increase to a surge in the number of tourists visiting Jordan, which reached 1.9 million in the first four months of 2023, constituting a growth rate of 87.2 percent. Overnight tourism also increased, reaching 1.6 million tourists marking a 78.7 percent increase compared with 894,097 overnight visitors in the same period of 2022. There were 360,300 day-trip tourists during the same time period, with a growth rate of 137.1 percent. According to the Central Bank data, Jordanians spent 49.6 percent more on tourism abroad in April of 2023 than in the same month of 2022, reaching $142 million. In the first four months of the year, Jordanians spent 63.2 percent more on tourism abroad that during the same period of the previous year, recording a value of $564.3 million, the spending of Jordanian residents accounted for 83.2 per cent of the total tourism spending abroad.

The Royal Commission for AlUla will develop a new resort per the Journey Through Time masterplan, aligned with the Sustainability Charter for AlUla , Saudi Green Initiative , and Vision 2030 . The Azulik AlUla Resort is an eco-luxury property in the Nabatean Horizon District of the Journey Through Time masterplan, tucked into canyons near the AlMutadil Equestrian Village development and Wadi AlFann. Slated to launch in 2027 , the resort will feature 76 luxury villas and a Sfer Ik museum . The development looks to protect and incorporate nearby ancient rock art inscriptions, and utilise a natural system of existing waterways to feed irrigation and safeguard against floods, the Royal Commission for AlUla said in a statement. No private vehicle traffic will be allowed on-property, instead an all-electric mobility system will be provided, along with horse and camel routes, and hiking trails for guests to enjoy the surroundings, a release from the company stated.

The Middle East region is expected to generate the second highest passenger growth during the summer travel holiday season , according to International Air Transport Association ’s forward bookings data for May-September. The IATA survey covering 4,700 travelers in 11 countries showed that 79 percent of travelers were planning a trip during the June-August period . While peak travel season disruptions should not be a surprise for 85 percent of travelers, 80 percent said they expected smooth travel with post pandemic issues having been resolved. While Asia Pacific is expected to witness the greatest growth , at 134.7 percent , the growth in the Middle East is expected to be around 43 percent . Expectations are high for this year’s peak Northern summer travel season. For many this will be their first post-pandemic travel experience. While some disruptions can be expected, there is a clear expectation that the ramping-up issues faced at some key hub airports in 2022 will have been resolved. To meet strong demand, airlines are planning schedules based on the capacity that airports, border control, ground handlers, and air navigation service providers have declared. Over the next months, all industry players now need to deliver,” said Nick Careen , IATA’s Senior Vice President for Operations, Safety and Security.         

Travel company Al Rostamani Travel and Holidays announced a strategic partnership with Saudi Tourism Authority on promoting tourism in Saudi Arabia to United Arab Emirates residents. The partnership aims to offer travelers from United Arab Emirates the chance to immerse themselves in Saudi Arabia’s diverse landscapes. Al Rostamani Travel acknowledged the significance of this partnership in supporting Saudi Arabia’s vision to establish itself as a leading global tourism destination. By leveraging their expertise and resources, both entities will work towards raising awareness about the incredible tourism offerings of Saudi Arabia and inviting United Arab Emirates travelers to embark on unforgettable journeys.

Turkey-based home accommodation brand Missafir announced the introduction of its new mobile application — Missafir Owner , designed for homeowners. The mobile application gives homeowners access to details about their homes in real-time and instantly from their smartphones, Missafir said in a release. Through the application, owners can track the income and expenses of their properties, view reservation information, and manage their calendars. Additionally, they can also receive instant notifications about updates, such as maintenance or cleaning services on their properties. “Our hosts in the short-term accommodation sector expect a detailed and transparent information process as well as easy access and time-saving. We designed Missafir Owner in line with these expectations,” said Mehmet Yüksel, CEO of Missafir.

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Stephen Hiltner/The New York Times

The sculpted facade of a 2,000-year-old tomb glows in the late-afternoon sun at Hegra, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Crowds of Muslim pilgrims gather outside the Prophet’s Mosque in Medina.

Camels march through the desert on the outskirts of the Empty Quarter, the world’s largest sand sea.

For many years these Saudi Arabian scenes, including the lively open-air markets in Jeddah, were off limits to most travelers.

But not anymore. As it undergoes a profound transformation, Saudi Arabia is spending lavishly to lure tourists with its luxe new resorts ...

... its rich cultural heritage ...

... and its sublime natural beauty.

Can the Saudi government persuade would-be visitors to look past — or reconsider — its longstanding associations with religious extremism, ultraconservatism and human rights abuses?

Will the kingdom’s $800 billion bet on tourism pay off?

Supported by

Surprising, Unsettling, Surreal: Roaming Through Saudi Arabia

To witness the kingdom’s profound transformation and assess its ambitious tourism projects, a Times journalist spent a month on the road there. Here’s what he saw.

By Stephen Hiltner

An editor and photojournalist for the Travel section, Stephen Hiltner drove 5,200 miles and visited all 13 of Saudi Arabia’s provinces while reporting and shooting this story.

Wandering alone along the southern fringes of Saudi Arabia’s mountainous Asir Province, some eight miles from the Yemeni border, in a nondescript town with a prominent sculpture of a rifle balanced on an ornately painted plinth, I met a man, Nawab Khan, who was building a palace out of mud.

Listen to this article with reporter commentary

Actually, he was rebuilding the structure, restoring it. And when I came across him, he hadn’t yet begun his work for the day; he was seated on the side of the road beneath its red-and-white windows — cross-legged, on a rug, leaning over a pot of tea and a bowl of dates.

Two weeks earlier, on the far side of the country, a fellow traveler had pointed at a map and described the crumbling buildings here, in Dhahran al-Janub, arranged in a colorful open-air museum. Finding myself nearby, I’d detoured to have a look — and there was Mr. Khan, at first looking at me curiously and then waving me over to join him. Sensing my interest in the cluster of irregular towers, he stood up, produced a large key ring and began opening a series of padlocks. When he vanished through a doorway, I followed him into a shadowy stairwell.

This, of course, was my mother’s worst nightmare: Traveling solo, I’d been coaxed by a stranger into an unlit building in a remote Saudi village, within a volatile border area that the U.S. Department of State advises Americans to stay away from .

By now, though, more than halfway through a 5,200-mile road trip, I trusted Mr. Khan’s enthusiasm as a genuine expression of pride, not a ploy. All across Saudi Arabia, I’d seen countless projects being built, from simple museums to high-end resorts. These were the early fruits of an $800 billion investment in the travel sector, itself part of a much larger effort, Vision 2030 , to remake the kingdom and reduce its economic dependence on oil.

But I’d begun to see the building projects as something else, too: the striving of a country — long shrouded to most Westerners — to be seen, reconsidered, accepted. And with its doors suddenly flung open and the pandemic behind us, visitors like me were finally beginning to witness this new Saudi Arabia, much to Mr. Khan’s and all the other builders’ delight.

Few countries present as complicated a prospect for travelers as Saudi Arabia.

Long associated with Islamic extremism, human rights abuses and the oppression of women, the kingdom has made strides in recent years to refashion its society and its reputation abroad.

The infamous religious police, which upheld codes of conduct based on an ultraconservative interpretation of Islam, were stripped of their power. Public concerts, once banned, are now ubiquitous. Women have been granted new rights — including the freedom to drive and to travel without permission from a male guardian — and are no longer required to wear floor-length robes in public or to cover their hair.

These changes are part of a broad set of strategies to diversify the kingdom’s economy, elevate its status in the world and soften its image — the last of which is a tall order for a government that has killed a newspaper columnist , kidnapped and tortured dissidents , precipitated a humanitarian crisis in Yemen and imprisoned people for supporting gay rights , among a number of other recent abuses .

Central to the transformations led by 38-year-old Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, the kingdom’s de facto ruler, is a major push for international visitors. It represents a sea change in a country that, until 2019, issued no nonreligious tourist visas and instead catered almost exclusively to Muslim pilgrims visiting Mecca and Medina, Islam’s two holiest cities. In February, by contrast, my tourist e-visa was approved online in minutes.

Saudi Arabia has already transformed one of its premier destinations — Al-Ula, with its UNESCO-listed Nabatean tombs — from a neglected collection of archaeological sites into a lavish retreat with a bevy of activities on offer, including guided tours, wellness festivals, design exhibitions and hot air balloon rides.

Another project will create a vast array of luxury resorts on or near the Red Sea.

Still more projects include the development of Diriyah , the birthplace of the first Saudi state; the preservation and development of the coastal city of Jeddah ; an offshore theme park called the Rig ; and Neom , the futuristic city that has garnered the lion’s share of attention.

All told, the country is hoping to draw 70 million international tourists per year by 2030, with tourism contributing 10 percent of its gross domestic product. (In 2023, the country logged 27 million international tourists, according to government figures , with tourism contributing about 4 percent of G.D.P.)

At-Turaif, a UNESCO World Heritage site, was the birthplace of the kingdom of Saudi Arabia. It is now the centerpiece of the $63 billion Diriyah project, a new center of culture just outside Riyadh.

Nujuma, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve on a remote island in the Red Sea, opened in late May. (A one-bedroom villa costs about $2,500 per night, excluding taxes and fees.) It is one of 50 properties scheduled to open in the area by 2030.

The preservation and development of Jeddah, a coastal city famous for its historic district built largely from blocks of coral, comes with a price tag of some $20 billion.

Al-Ula is a cornerstone of Saudi Arabia’s tourism ambitions. Part of the city’s Old Town, long crumbling in neglect, has now been painstakingly restored.

To get a sense of these projects and the changes unfolding in Saudi society, I spent a month exploring the kingdom by car. I traveled alone, without a fixer, driver or translator. Per New York Times ethics guidelines, I declined the government’s many offers of discounts and complimentary services.

Much of the time I felt I’d been tossed the keys to the kingdom. But there were moments, too, when I faced a more complicated reality, one epitomized by a road sign that forced me to abruptly exit the highway some 15 miles from the center of Mecca. “Obligatory for Non Muslims,” it read, pointing to the offramp.

To me, the sign broadcast the lines being drawn to compartmentalize the country, which is now marketing itself to two sets of travelers with increasingly divergent — and sometimes contradictory — expectations: luxury tourists at ease with bikinis and cocktails, and pilgrims prepared for modesty and strict religious adherence. It’s hard to know whether the kingdom can satisfy both without antagonizing either.

My trip began in Jeddah, where, after spending two days exploring its historic district, I rented a car and drove eight hours north to Al-Ula, a benchmark for the new Saudi tourism initiatives.

Saudi Arabia

Reporter’s route

Dhahran al-Janub

Wadi al-Disah

Red Sea Resort

The name Al-Ula refers to both a small city and a broader region packed with attractions: Hegra , the kingdom’s first UNESCO World Heritage site and its biggest archaeological draw, is a 30-minute drive north of Old Town, a maze of crumbling mud-brick buildings now partly restored. Between the two, and fanning out to the east and west, are several other archaeological sites, as well as a smattering of resorts, event spaces and adventure outfitters. Farther northeast, beyond Hegra, is the Sharaan Nature Reserve , a vast protected zone used for conservation efforts.

My first priority during my five-day stay in Al-Ula was a visit to Hegra.

Like Petra , its better-known counterpart in Jordan, Hegra was built by the Nabateans, an ancient people who flourished 2,000 years ago. The site contains more than 100 tombs that were carved from solid rock, their entrances adorned with embellishments. Most impressive among them, set apart and standing some 70 feet tall, is a tomb colloquially called the Lonely Castle.

Not long ago, visitors could hire private guides and wander the area on foot, climbing in and out of — and no doubt damaging — the many tombs. Not anymore: I boarded an air-conditioned tour bus and zipped past most of them, stopping at just four locations.

At the penultimate stop, we exited the bus and trudged several hundred feet along a sandy path to the front of the Lonely Castle. Even in the late afternoon, the heat was stifling. I craned my neck to take in the details of the sculpted facade, which emerged like a mirage from one side of a massive boulder: its four pilasters, the rough chisel marks near the bottom, its characteristic five-stepped crown. Ten minutes evaporated, and I turned to find my group being shepherded back onto the bus. I jogged through the sand to catch up.

A few miles north of Hegra, I hopped in the back of a Toyota Land Cruiser — accompanied by an Italian graduate student and his mother — for a drive through the sandy expanse of the Sharaan Nature Reserve.

The scenery was sublime: Slipping through a narrow slot canyon, we emerged into a vast, open desert plain, then settled into a wide valley enclosed by an amphitheater of cliffs. Occasionally our guide stopped and led us on short hikes to petroglyphs, some pockmarked by bullet holes, or to lush fields of wildflowers, where he plucked edible greens and invited us to sample their lemony tang.

Gabriele Morelli, the graduate student, had first come to Al-Ula a few years ago — a different era, he said, given how quickly the place had transformed. He described a version that no longer exists, rife with cheap accommodation, lax rules and a free-for-all sensibility.

Some of the changes, of course, have been necessary to protect delicate ecosystems and archaeological sites from ever-growing crowds. But several people I met in Al-Ula — Saudis and foreigners alike — quietly lamented the extent of the high-end development and the steady erosion of affordability. Many of the new offerings, like the Banyan Tree resort, they pointed out, are luxury destinations that cater to wealthy travelers.

These hushed criticisms were among my early lessons on how difficult it can be to gauge the way Saudis feel about the pace and the pervasiveness of the transformations reshaping their society.

I got a taste of Al-Ula’s exclusivity — and of the uncanniness that occasionally surfaced throughout my trip — at a Lauryn Hill concert in an event space called Maraya . To reach the hall, I passed through a security gate, where an attendant scanned my e-ticket and directed me two miles up a winding road into the heart of the Ashar Valley, home to several high-end restaurants and resorts.

Rounding the final bend, I felt as if I’d stumbled into a computer-generated image: Ant-size humans were dwarfed by a reflective structure that both asserted itself and blended into the landscape. Inside, waiters served hors d’oeuvres and brightly colored mocktails to a chic young crowd.

The surreality peaked when, midway through the show, I left my plush seat to join some concertgoers near the stage — only to turn and see John Bolton, former President Donald J. Trump’s national security adviser, seated in the front row.

Where else, I wondered, could I attend a rap concert in the middle of the desert with a longtime fixture of the Republican Party — amid a crowd that cheered when Ms. Hill mentioned Palestine — but this strange new corner of Saudi Arabia?

The mirrored facade at Maraya, a vast event space in Al-Ula, warps and reflects the surrounding desert landscape.

The building is in some ways a precursor to the kingdom’s most ambitious architectural design: the project at Neom called the Line, a 106-mile linear city that will also feature a mirrored surface.

Lauryn Hill performing in front of a large crowd at Maraya.

After Al-Ula, I drove to another of the kingdom’s extravagant schemes: the Red Sea project, billed as the “world’s most ambitious regenerative tourism destination.” After weaving through a morass of construction-related traffic, I boarded a yacht — alongside a merry band of Saudi influencers — and was piloted some 15 miles to a remote island, where I disembarked in a world of unqualified opulence at the St. Regis Red Sea Resort .

I was chauffeured around in an electric golf cart — past 43 beachside “dune” villas and onto two long boardwalks that connect the rest of the resort to 47 “coral” villas, built on stilts over shallow turquoise water. Along the way, I listened to Lucas Julien-Vauzelle, an executive assistant manager, wax poetic about sustainability. “We take it to the next level,” he said, before rattling off a list of facts and figures: 100 percent renewable energy, a solar-powered 5G network , plans to enhance biologically diverse habitats.

By 2030, he said, the Red Sea project will offer 50 hotels across its island and inland sites. Citing the Maldives, he mentioned the kingdom’s plans to claim a share of the same high-end market.

Another prediction came by way of Keith Thornton, the director of restaurants, who said he expects the resort to legally serve alcohol by the end of the year. (While a liquor store for non-Muslim diplomats recently opened in Riyadh, the Saudi government has made no indication that it plans to reconsider its broader prohibition of alcohol.)

The hotel was undeniably impressive. But there’s an inescapable irony to a lavish resort built at unfathomable expense in the middle of the sea — with guests ferried out by chartered boat and seaplane — that flaunts its aspirations for sustainability.

Toward the end of my several-hour visit, I learned that every piece of vegetation, including 646 palm trees, had been transplanted from an off-site nursery. Later, reviewing historical satellite images, I found visual evidence that the island — described to me as pristine — had been dramatically fortified and, in the process, largely remade. Its footprint had also been significantly altered. It was, in a sense, an artificial island built where a smaller natural island once stood.

Something else struck me, too: The place was nearly empty, save for the staff and the Saudi influencers. Granted, the resort had just opened the month before — but the same was true at the nearby Six Senses Southern Dunes , an inland Red Sea resort that opened in November. Fredrik Blomqvist, the general manager there, told me that its isolated location in a serene expanse of desert — part of its appeal — also presented a challenge in drawing customers. “The biggest thing,” he said, “is to get the message out that the country is open.”

Since the country began issuing tourist visas, influencers have been documenting their experiences in places like Jeddah and Al-Ula, their trips often paid for by the Saudi government. Their breezy content contributes to the impression that the kingdom is awaiting discovery by foreign visitors with out-of-date prejudices. To an extent, for a certain segment of tourists, that’s true.

For many travelers, though, the depiction of the kingdom as an uncomplicated getaway could be dangerously misleading.

Speech in Saudi Arabia is strictly limited; dissent is not tolerated — nor is the open practice of any religion other than the government’s interpretation of Islam. In its travel advisory , the U.S. Department of State warns that “social media commentary — including past comments — which Saudi authorities may deem critical, offensive, or disruptive to public order, could lead to arrest.” Punishment for Saudi nationals has been far worse: In 2023, a retired teacher was sentenced to death after he criticized the ruling family via anonymous accounts. As of late 2023, he remained in prison.

Other restrictions are harder to parse. L.G.B.T.Q. travelers are officially welcome in the kingdom but face a conundrum: They might face arrest or other criminal penalties for openly expressing their sexual orientation or gender identity. As recently as 2021, an independent U.S. federal agency included Saudi Arabia on a list of countries where same-sex relationships are punishable by death , noting that “the government has not sought this penalty in recent years.”

When asked how he would convince a same-sex couple that it was safe to visit, Jerry Inzerillo, a native New Yorker and the group chief executive of Diriyah, said: “We don’t ask you any questions when you come into the country or when you leave.”

“Maybe that’s not conclusive enough,” he added, “but a lot of people have come.”

Female travelers might also face difficulties, since advancements in women’s rights are not equally distributed throughout the kingdom.

The changes were more visible in big cities and tourist centers. Ghydda Tariq, an assistant marketing manager in Al-Ula, described how new professional opportunities had emerged for her in recent years. Maysoon, a young woman I met in Jeddah, made extra money by occasionally driving for Uber. Haneen Alqadi, an employee at the St. Regis Red Sea, described how women there are free to wear bikinis without fear of repercussions.

Outside such places, though, I sometimes went for days without seeing more than a handful of women, invariably wearing niqabs, let alone seeing them engaged in public life or tourism. My photographs reflect that imbalance.

As an easily identifiable Western man, I moved through the country with an array of advantages: the kindness and cheery curiosity of strangers, the ease of passage at military checkpoints, and the freedom to interact with a male-dominated society at markets, museums, parks, restaurants, cafes. Not all travelers could expect the same treatment.

Roaming in the far north and south, I often found the earlier version of the kingdom — with lax rules and less development — that had been described to me in Al-Ula.

I trekked to the northern city of Sakaka to see an archaeological site promoted as the Stonehenge of Saudi Arabia: a set of monoliths called the Rajajil Columns thought to have been erected some 6,000 years ago but about which little is definitively known.

My heart sank when I pulled into the parking lot after a five-hour drive and found the columns blocked by a tall fence. Approaching on foot, though, I noticed that a section of the fence had been peeled back and that visitors were wandering freely among the stones, which protruded from the earth like isolated clusters of crooked teeth. I joined the small crowd, if hesitatingly, and was surprised to find no footpaths, nor anything to keep us a safe distance from the columns. In the end I wondered if our access had been officially approved or informally arranged.

My travel experiences were sometimes awkward in other ways, too.

Standing just outside the grounds of the central mosque in Medina, where the Prophet Muhammad is buried, I was detained by a stern member of the Special Forces. (Even after 2019, non-Muslim tourists remained barred from Mecca and Medina, Islam’s two holiest cities. The ban was relaxed in parts of Medina in 2021.)

The guard interrogated me and, after calling a colleague to confer, demanded that I leave the area. “Go,” he said threateningly. Another traveler who witnessed the encounter scurried away to avoid a similar fate.

The unsettling exchange cast a pall over my time in the city, which few non-Muslims have seen. As far as I knew, I’d abided by the rules by staying outside the grounds of the Prophet’s Mosque — a boundary line that I’d confirmed with tourism officials beforehand.

Peering through the perimeter fence — the boundary line for non-Muslims — at the Prophet’s Mosque in Medina.

The Mosque of Al-Ghamamah, one of the oldest in the holy city.

A sprawling maze of ramshackle residential buildings sits less than a mile from the Prophet’s Mosque.

A guide speaking to a group of visitors near the Hejaz Railway Museum, visible in the distance. (The museum was closed for renovations at the time.)

A group of young men, most of whose families emigrated from Sudan, playing soccer in a field just outside the center of Medina.

More than anything, family and friends wanted to know if I felt safe on my trip — and I did, almost without exception. Petty crime in Saudi Arabia is exceedingly rare. And while parts of the country are under a Level 4 “Do Not Travel” advisory , even my rambling itinerary was approved by a security expert.

Instead of fearing for my safety, I was often preoccupied with how I’d fairly portray a place that elicited such a range of conflicting emotions: joy and distress, excitement and apprehension, sincerity and doubt. So much lay hidden from public view — like the collective anguish over the war raging in Gaza . And so little was easy to categorize, in part because the warmth of everyday Saudis was strikingly at odds with the ruthlessness of their authoritarian government.

In Riyadh, a young man warned me not to speak openly with strangers. “People get arrested here for a tweet ,” he said. “Can you imagine?”

I could, actually. The Saudi columnist Jamal Khashoggi had chronicled his government’s increasingly draconian responses to criticism. “Repression and intimidation are not — and never should be — the acceptable companions of reform,” he wrote in The Washington Post in 2018, just months before he was killed and dismembered at his country’s consulate in Istanbul.

Were we to travel only where we feel comfortable and unchallenged, we’d all be poorer for it. But the question of whether to travel to Saudi Arabia is thornier than that.

It’s easy to see one response, “No,” as yielding to closed-mindedness at the expense of ordinary people — like the kindly vendor Abdullah, who served me local honey at his shop in the southern mountains.

But it’s easy, too, to see “Yes” as an affirmation that might makes right, that amusement outweighs morality, that princely wealth can wipe a stained slate clean.

Sunrise over the mountainous village of Fayfa, some six miles from the Yemeni border.

Abdullah Ghaleb Zaid, a honey vendor, at his shop atop a mountain pass near the southern city of Abha.

Sunset near Jabal Soudah, the kingdom’s highest peak.

Ten days into my trip, I ventured to Wadi al-Disah, a steep-walled valley where I’d booked a tent at a campsite I found on Airbnb. For an additional 300 riyals ($80), my host, Faisal, led me on a four-wheel-drive tour, departing the paved road and weaving through a path along the bed of an ephemeral river. Continually jolted by the uneven terrain, we eased past thick reeds, lofty palms and small bands of visitors who’d nestled into clearings.

As we left, I met a group of young men gathered for a picnic, their sandals scattered around a carpet on which they were preparing their dinner. Delighted to meet an American with a camera, they asked if I’d take a group portrait, then exchanged information with me so I could send them a copy — a scenario by then so familiar that I hardly thought anything of it.

A full day later, some 200 miles away, I was cruising along a lonely highway near the Jordanian border when a Land Cruiser blew past me at an astonishing speed. I felt my compact car rock from its turbulence — and then I watched with a twinge of dread as the car abruptly braked, slowing hard in the left lane until our front ends were aligned. It held steady there.

For a moment I stared straight ahead, hoping to avoid a confrontation. When I finally turned to look, I saw a group of boys grinning wildly and waving through an open window. Then I realized: Improbably, it was three of the young men I’d met the day before. Somehow we’d all followed the same route. And somehow, in the split second it took them to fly past, they’d recognized me. I lifted my camera from the passenger seat and snapped a photograph.

The picture shows three young Saudis on a precipice: endearing, erratic, captivating. I have a sense of where they came from but no certainty about where they’re going. Two are flashing peace signs, and none appears to be wearing a seatbelt. No one is watching the road as their car drifts out of its lane, careening a little recklessly into a hopeful and uncertain future.

Stephen Hiltner’s recent work includes a photo essay about his childhood in Budapest , an examination of A.I.-generated guidebooks and an investigation into the deaths of Russian soldiers in Ukraine . You can follow his travels on Instagram .

Got a question about this story? Drop a note in the comments section. Got a tip? Send him an email .

Read by Stephen Hiltner

Audio produced by Jack D’Isidoro .

Stephen Hiltner is an editor, writer and photographer for the Travel section of The Times. More about Stephen Hiltner

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The event aims to revolutionize the country's food industry while aspiring for a lasting transformation on a large scale. This year, the event is scheduled to take place from June 20th to June 22nd at the Riyadh Exhibition Centre.

The event is expected to attract a total of 15,000 attendees. Among the visitors, 20% will be international attendees from 35 countries. 80 Countries will be represented, and 500 companies will showcase their exceptional food and beverage products during the exhibition.

The Saudi Food Show will have some distinctive features that give you a million reasons to attend. Here is why you should attend the event:

TawaSul Meetings Programme

TawaSul is a programme designed to connect exhibitors with relevant buyers, fostering tailor-made connections, quality meetings, and business networking opportunities.

Saudi Food Summit

The Saudi Food Summit is a distinctive feature of the Saudi Food Show that differentiates it from other exhibitions. It offers exclusive and insightful information about the rapidly growing and changing F&B sector in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the GCC region. This summit provides attendees with direct access to valuable and original knowledge regarding the industry.

Saudi Food Excellence Awards

The Saudi Food Excellence Awards 2023 recognizes and celebrates the innovative pioneers in the food and beverage industry who have demonstrated excellence within the past year.

The Saudi Food Show

In the first edition of the Saudi Food Show, Top Table presents a unique platform for visitors to discover and immerse themselves in a diverse range of international and local culinary cuisines, showcasing the vibrant food scene in the Middle East's emerging culinary capital.

YouthX Saudi

The YouthX platform is set to make its first appearance in Saudi Arabia, providing an exceptional opportunity for talented young chefs from prominent hotels in the region. This platform will bring them together in a unique culinary competition that recognizes their valuable contributions to the country's growing influence on the global gastronomic stage. The participants will have the chance to showcase their skills and be rewarded for their outstanding culinary performances.

Foodverse at The Saudi Food Show is an exciting new platform that showcases how new technology will revolutionize the F&B industry and create endless possibilities within the food ecosystem. Visitors can experience real-life applications of the metaverse, one-to-one workshops with blockchain, deep-tech, NFT and crypto experts, as they share their knowledge of emerging technology trends that will pave the way for future innovations in the F&B industry. 

How to Get to the Venue Easily?

The Riyadh International Convention and Exhibition Center (RICEC) is a well-equipped exhibition venue, featuring state-of-the-art facilities and a modern design. Situated near Exit 10 on the Eastern Ring Road, specifically at King Abdullah Road, the RICEC offers a convenient location for visitors to access the venue easily.

To reach Riyadh from outside the country, you can use King Khalid International Airport as it serves as the main gateway. With a capacity to accommodate up to 12 million visitors, the airport is known for its excellent organization and high-quality services. These include free Wi-Fi, various dining options, and comfortable waiting areas, ensuring a pleasant experience for travelers.

The largest national airlines are  Saudia ,  Flynas , and  Flyadeal .

You can also go by your own car as parking is available onsite with a capacity that can take up to 1400 cars, and 60 cars at VIP parking area. Multiple entrances and exits are available to facilitate smooth traffic flow at the venue.

*Free visitor parking is available on the Exhibition Grounds via Gate 2

For taxi services in Riyadh, contact SAFWA Taxi at +966 92 001 0068 or book through Careem. Pre-booked transfers can be arranged with Welcome Pickups, while Uber and Careem operate throughout Saudi Arabia for flexible transportation options.

Riyadh - Dammam Line

Riyadh - Dammam connects Riyadh to the Eastern Region and passes through the following stations: Dammam, Abqaiq, Hofuf and Riyadh.

The North Train

The North Train connects Riyadh to the north of Saudi Arabia and serves the following stations: Riyadh, Al Majmaah, Qassim, Hail and Al Jouf.

Haramain Railway

The Haramain High-Speed Railway is the newest and fastest train system in the Middle East, connecting the holy cities of Makkah and Medina in western Saudi Arabia. The railway line includes stations at Makkah, Jeddah, King Abdullah Economic City, and Medina.

For more details, visit their website .

This article was posted on saudimoments