tour of rwanda

Rwanda Tours & Vacations

From stealing magic moments with mountain-dwelling gorillas to experiencing heart-warming encounters with villagers, Rwanda will deliver experiences unlike any other.

Volcanic mountains, dense forests, tranquil lakes and lively towns add a stunning backdrop to Rwanda’s real gems – the sincere, proud people and majestic, mysterious wildlife.

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Remarkable Rwanda & Gorillas of Uganda

Articles of Rwanda

Encounters in the mist: Exploring Uganda’s gorilla sanctuaries 

Meet the Gorilla Doctors: Guardians of East-Central Africa’s great apes 

The top 8 destinations for travel in June 2024

7 unforgettable wildlife experiences for 2023 

8 reasons why February is an awesome time to travel to East Africa

What to pack for a gorilla trek in Uganda or Rwanda

Everything you need to know about trekking with mountain gorillas

Stories from Rwanda: what it’s really like visiting mountain gorillas

Rwanda at a glance

Capital city.

Kigali (population 1.1 million)

12.6 million

Kinyarwanda, French, English

(GMT+02:00) Windhoek

CALLING CODE

Electricity.

Type C (European 2-pin) Type J (Swiss 3-pin)

Learn more about Rwanda

Best time to visit rwanda.

Rwanda has a tropical highland climate, with temperatures being pleasantly warm most of the year. March to May is the wet season, so expect frequent rain and thunderstorms during this period, which can make trekking and other outdoor activities uncomfortable at times.

Culture and customs

Rwanda has a rich, vibrant culture based on traditional dance, crafts song and drumming. History and culture is communicated through the generations with songs, poetry and stories providing links to the past. Visitors to Rwanda should catch a cultural performance of dynamic dance and music to appreciate the heritage and identity that is carried by these songs and dances. There are three main ethnic tribes in Rwanda - Hutu, Tutsi and Twa, each having their similarities and differences. The Twa comprise less than 1% of the population, and are hunter-gatherers, having lived in Rwanda for centuries. The Hutu and Tutsi are not divided by ethnicity but by a social caste system, with the Tutsi traditionally living pastoral lives and being members of the ruling class, and the Hutu traditionally being seen as peasant farmers. This is malleable though, as intermarriage between the two is quite common, so children may have a Hutu father and a Tutsi mother. While this has lead to much division and conflict in the past, Rwanda has more recently enjoyed 15 years of relative harmony, with these ethnic groups living and working alongside each other in peace.  Foreigners and travelers will find most Rwandans live simple lives, devoid of modern conveniences and perhaps it is because of this that Rwandans are known for being friendly, genuine and very accommodating to visitors. Homestays in particular provide valuable insights into the culture of Rwanda.

Eating and drinking

Intrepid believes that one of the best ways to experience a country is by eating! Whether you're sampling street food, savoring a cheap eat or indulging in a banquet, there are endless options to choose from wherever you are in the world.  Rwandan food typically consists of simple meals made from locally grown produce. Sweet potato, corn, peas, beans and cassava feature heavily, and are usually fried or cooked in a stew. Spices and seasonings aren’t common in Rwandan cooking, so food may be a little bland for some – but just right for others who prefer their food less spicy.

Things to try in Rwanda

1. Fresh fruit

Bananas, avocados, mangoes and papaya are plentiful in Rwanda and are a cheap, fresh snack when bought from markets and street carts.

2. Frites-banane (fried plantains)

Fried Plantains are a delicious snack and found just about everywhere in Rwanda.

Barbecued beef, goat and chicken are available at roadside street stalls in the larger cities.

Beer is popular with the men of Rwanda (women rarely drink). Primus, Mutzig and Amstel are the main beers available in Rwanda, as well as locally brewed banana beer.

Geography and environment

Sharing borders with Uganda , Burundi, Tanzania and the Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda is a densely populated, landlocked nation. Covered in grassland, mountains and rolling hills, most people in Rwanda live in villages surrounded by farmland. Plantations of cash crops like coffee and tea are common, but small subsistence farming is the main source of income for most Rwandans living in rural areas. 

The dense jungles and national parks of Rwanda house many species of animal including gorillas, baboons, chimpanzees and prolific birdlife. Unlike many other African bodies of water, freshwater Lake Kivu is free from crocodiles and hippos, so it’s a great spot for swimming, fishing and other recreational activities.

History and government

Early history.

The original inhabitants of Rwanda, the Twa, lived a hunter-gatherer lifestyle for centuries before the arrival of the Hutu people. Then the Tutsi brought with them a feudal system of land ownership and society. In 1890 Germany took control of Rwanda, and ruled until 1916 when the Belgians overpowered the German forces during World War I. Under Belgian rule, clashes between the Tutsi and the Hutu were frequent and a precursor to the violence of the 1990s. Independence was granted in 1962, and the Hutu majority came into power. Because of this, Tutsi people were marginalized, with less access to education and employment opportunities. This imbalance created simmering tensions within Rwanda, culminating in armed conflict and displacement of people.

Recent history

In 1994, Rwanda erupted into civil war following the death of the president in a plane crash (the plane was shot by a missile while trying to land in Kigali). Months of bloodshed ensued - it's estimated that close to a million people were killed within a period of 90 days. Millions of Rwandans fled into neighboring Uganda and Tanzania to escape the violence, murder and looting that had taken over their country. Due to the loss of life and infrastructure caused by the genocide of 1994, many Rwandans today live in poverty. Despite this, Rwanda is currently rising out of hard times to move into the future with increased prosperity and improved living conditions. The economy is slowly improving due to a flourishing tourism industry and a new government that has invested in education and infrastructure

Top 10 experiences of Rwanda

1. gorillas in the mist.

Trekking through the steamy jungle is well worth it once you set eyes upon a family of silverback gorillas. Watch them interact and play and marvel at how similar they are to humans. Watching these rare creatures is utterly captivating and engrossing – you won’t want to leave.

2. National treasures

Stop in at the Butare National Museum, considered one of the best museums in East Africa. Featuring tribal art, traditional housing, musical instruments and other artefacts, this museum offers visitors a great grounding in Rwandan history and culture.

3. Moving memorial

Be touched by the spirit of the Rwandan people when visiting the Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre. This place is dedicated to the people who lost their lives in the genocide of 1994, and provides a peaceful space for survivors to mourn and ultimately heal.

4. Chill out lakeside

Experience the serenity and beauty of Rwanda’s Lake Kivu. Whether you’re enjoying a relaxing walk on the shores or heading out on a boat, Lake Kivu provides a pocket of aquatic splendor in a landlocked country.

5. Monkey magic

Have fun finding chimps, baboons and monkeys in the trees of the Nyungwe National Park. The dense rainforest terrain offers the perfect environment for these amazing creatures to live in.

6. Home sweet home

Experience true Rwandan hospitality while spending time with a local family on a homestay. Enjoy home cooking and new friendships – something you just can’t get when staying at a hotel.

7. To market

Strolling through the markets of Kigali is a great way to get acquainted with this up-and-coming city. Buy some trinkets or fresh produce, chat with locals and watch market-life in action.

8. Beach bliss

The small town of Gisenyi is home to unspoilt beaches where you won't have to fight for a spot to laze on them. Enjoy the isolation and make the most of the space in this pocket of paradise.

9. Small town charm

Known as the gateway town to the gorillas, Ruhengeri offers a change of pace to the crowds of Kigali. Be touched by the warmth and sincerity of the local people while staying in this town of about 80,000 people.

10. Feel the beat

Soak up a bit of nightlife by getting your groove on to African and Western pop music in one of Kigali’s busy nightspots. New Cadillac and Republika Lounge are popular with both locals and expats, so why not see how the city comes to life after dark.

Rwanda’s markets are filled with bright delights, from fresh fruit and vegetables to vibrant fabrics. Souvenir-wise, the best picks are handicrafts and artwork by local artists. Woven baskets, colorful fabric bags, interesting jewelry, wood carvings and terracotta pots all make great mementos of your trip or gifts for friends back home. It's a good idea to check with your local customs officials to ensure that you are able to bring certain items back into your home country. Australia and New Zealand generally have strict quarantine laws.

Festivals and Events

With the majority of Rwandans being Christian, Christmas is an important time for most. Rwandans typically don’t celebrate Christmas in a commercial way, with most foregoing gift giving and choosing to spend time at church and with family. Church services are usually a formal affair and run for several hours, with locals getting dressed up in their finest attire to attend mass. Time is then spent eating and socializing with family and friends.

Public holidays that may impact travel include:

National Heroes' Day

Tutsi Genocide Memorial Day

Eid al-Fitr / End of Ramadan

Independence Day

Liberation Day

Umuganura / Harvest Thanksgiving

Assumption Day

Eid al-Adha / Feast of Sacrifice

 Please note Rwanda's public holidays may vary

Further reading

Rwanda travel faqs, do i need a covid-19 vaccine to join an intrepid trip.

Trips from 1 January 2023 onwards

From 1 January 2023, Intrepid will no longer require travelers to provide proof of vaccination against COVID-19 (excluding all Polar trips and select adventure cruises).

However, we continue to strongly recommend that all Intrepid travelers and leaders get vaccinated to protect themselves and others.

Specific proof of testing or vaccination may still be required by your destination or airline. Please ensure you check travel and entry requirements carefully.

Is tipping customary in Rwanda?

Tipping isn’t expected of you in Rwanda. It's up to the individual whether to tip or not. Rounding up a bill for good service at restaurants is a good idea.

What is the internet access like in Rwanda?

Internet access has recently improved in Rwanda. Travelers will be able to access the internet in large cities like Kigali but expect limited to no access in regional and rural areas.

Can I use my cell phone while in Rwanda?

Cell phone coverage is quite good in Rwanda’s larger towns, but less so in rural and mountainous areas. Ensure you have global roaming activated before leaving home if you wish to use your cell phone.

What are the toilets like in Rwanda?

Squat/pit toilets are the standard in Rwanda, except for western-style, flushable toilets that are sometimes available in large hotels and other modern buildings. Carry your own supply of soap and toilet paper as they are rarely provided.

Can I drink the water in Rwanda?

Drinking tap water isn't recommended in Rwanda. For environmental reasons, try to avoid buying bottled water. Fill a reusable water bottle or canteen with filtered water. Ask your leader where filtered water can be found; some hotels we stay in may have drinking water available. It's also advisable to avoid ice in drinks and peel fruit and vegetables before eating.

Are credit cards accepted widely in Rwanda?

Credit cards are usually accepted by large hotels and western-style restaurants but not by smaller vendors. Ensure you have adequate cash to cover purchases not able to be made on credit.

What is ATM access like in Rwanda?

International ATMs are not so common in Rwanda. They can be found in Kigali and other larger towns, but may not accept foreign cards. Be sure to have other modes of payment before entering Rwanda, as relying solely on ATM usage isn’t wise. American dollars or euros can be exchanged easily at the airport, local forex bureaus and at banking institutions in Rwanda’s large cities.

Do I need to purchase travel insurance before traveling?

Absolutely. All passengers traveling with Intrepid are required to purchase travel insurance before the start of their trip. Your travel insurance details will be recorded by your leader on the first day of the trip. Due to the varying nature, availability and cost of health care around the world, travel insurance is very much an essential and necessary part of every journey.

For more information on insurance, please go to: Travel Insurance

Does my trip to Rwanda support The Intrepid Foundation?

Yes, all Intrepid trips support the Intrepid Foundation. In fact, we make a donation on behalf of every traveler. Trips to Rwanda directly support our foundation partner, Gorilla Doctors .

Gorilla Doctors help safeguard wild eastern gorilla populations with life-saving veterinary care. Donations from our trips help them provide routine health monitoring, veterinary visits and clinical interventions for injured mountain and Grauer's gorillas. Each animal they treat contributes to the gorilla populations' health, genetic diversity and long-term sustainability.

Intrepid will double the impact by dollar-matching all post-trip donations made to The Intrepid Foundation.

Do I need a visa to travel to Rwanda

Visas are required by all nationalities and need to be obtained in advance. You must apply for this visa online.  You'll need to apply for an Entry Visa on their website (Services tab, Visa) which should take approx 2-5 days to come through. You must print this Entry Facility out to present at the border. Nationals of Australia, Israel, New Zealand, USA, Germany, South Africa, Kenya, Great Britain, Sweden and Singapore are not required to pre-register, however must pay the visa fee upon arrival at the border post. The visa costs approx US$60 payable on the border, with the exception of national from Australia, Israel, New Zealand, USA, Germany, South Africa, Kenya, Great Britain, Sweden and Singapore for whom the visa fee is US$30.  If you are asked to provide an address in Rwanda on your visa form, please use the address below - 

Centre Pastoral Notre Dame De Fatima, Avenue de la Nutrition, Ruhengeri, Rwanda

Supporting Documents may also be required - the embassy will contact you if they require these

Note: Rwanda is constantly updating its visa information; therefore, we recommend that you check the website carefully for the latest up-to-date information

How do I stay safe and healthy while traveling?

From Australia?

Go to: Smart Traveller

From Canada?

Go to:  Canada Travel Information

From the UK?

Go to:  UK Foreign Travel Advice

From New Zealand?

Go to:  Safe Travel

From the US?

Go to:  US Department of State

The World Health Organisation also provides useful health information.

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Rwanda Tours & Trips

• Rwanda Safari
• Rwanda Wildlife
• Rwanda Group tour
• Rwanda Hiking & Trekking
• Rwanda Private

113 Rwanda tour packages with 55 reviews

• Christmas & New Year

Wild Encounters in Rwanda National Geographic Journeys

5 Days Rwanda Golden monkeys, Big 5 & Big Cats Safari

The tour was better than expected. He provided expert advice on the details of the tour.

• 10% deposit on some dates Some departure dates offer you the chance to book this tour with a lower deposit.

7-Day One Week Budget Tour in the Splendid Rwanda

8 days Rwanda Primates Safari

6 days Best of Rwanda Budget Safari

4 Days Rwanda Experience with Golden Monkey Excursion

We were able to secure Gorilla trekking permits discounted for African residents in a short period of time.

Tailor-Made Best Rwanda Tour, Daily Departure & Private Trip

• Book With Flexibility This operator allows you to rebook your dates or tours with them for free, waiving change fees.

Looking for tours beyond just Rwanda?

Explore tours with itineraries going through multiple countries, including Rwanda.

• Wildlife Trekking
• Gorilla Trekking

11-Day Rwanda Wildlife Luxury Safari

Rwanda-11- Days Rwanda Primates and Wildlife Experience

Rwanda is an amazing country. Its forests are unlike anything we have ever seen.

7 Days Rwanda Gorillas & Chimps Trekking Tour

I was not disappointed. The tour promised a number of items and never failed to deliver.

7 Days Community Based Tourism

This is a really good tour. Lots of highlights in this incredible country. Strongly recommended.

10 days Albertine rift birding and primates tour in Rwanda

• In-depth Cultural

9 Days Rwanda Tour

Amazing experience and super organized tour!!!

• Hiking & Trekking

7 Days Rwanda primates tour

Tailor-Made Private Rwanda Gorilla Trip with Daily Departure

What people love about rwanda tours.

Great tour, guide was very knowledgeable and helped a ton! Saw some great sites and animals.

I and my friend and I booked for a 3 days Gorilla trekking trip to Rwanda. Yvonne handled our requests professionally and customized a budget suiting us. More importantly we were able to secure Gorilla trekking permits  discounted for African residents in a short period of time and were facilitated with PCR tests required to trek gorillas at a local hospital near the Volcanoes Park. Emmanuel, my driver was outstanding as spending time with him was amazing.Apart from Gorillas, the company was able to organize us village visits whereby we spent time with local communities. Thank you team for organizing, highly appreciated and recommended. Greetings from Cairo

Ok,in terms of the services and accommodations provided to us,excellent to say the least,the people in charge of us were also a merry bunch,I represent a group of 4-2 couples,each one of us had a lot to say,but we all agree that Rwanda is an amazing country.its forests are unlike any thing we have ever seen considering we've gone on 3 safaris,unlike the serengeti and the Savannah,it offers a fresh percpective of Africa,it's lush green full of magestic trees and the wildlife is definitely different,a wide range of primates you won't see anywhere else,birds ar also in plenty,if you enjoy such kids of stuff,you'll have a blast.

Top operators

"Great tour, guide was very knowledgeable and helped a ton! Saw some great sites and animals.

Devine African Safaris Ltd is an expert in:

"I went on a G Adventures trip to Africa this past December. No complaints regarding the trip. I found out, however, that the company charged me 25% more than other passengers -- if you go on a trip and are American, DO NOT book through the US web site. They charge different pricing for people from other countries. People from the US are asked to pay about 25% more than Canadians or Europeans. Disappointing and unethical, discriminatory practice to say the least.

National Geographic Journeys with G Adventures is an expert in:

Ovacado Adventures is an expert in:

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Chris Froome embarks on solo 75km breakaway at Tour du Rwanda, ends with puncture and crash

'Even just to be here, to be racing and pushing is good for the next races, for the preparation'

After four days of the Tour du Rwanda, Chris Froome had been a quiet presence in the peloton, lying 21st overall as he continues the early-season preparation for goals later on in the year.

However, that all changed on stage 5, a hilly 195km run from Rusizi to Rubavu featuring six major climbs. The four-time Tour de France winner, who kicked off his season in Australia last month, sprang into action partway through the stage, making the break of the day.

No other riders would join him up front, though, and at 115km from the line it would be a lonely day out in the rain for the 37-year-old.

Froome's last pro win came at the 2018 Giro d'Italia, where he staged a phenomenal turnaround on the road to Bardonecchia with an 80km solo ride. This time around, he'd spend a similar time on the attack, even if the end result wasn't quite the same.

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In short order, Froome pushed his advantage over the peloton to over three minutes, riding into the virtual race lead. But after two hours in the break, bad luck brought an end to Froome's adventure, with a puncture halting his progress. On the penultimate climb, he required two wheel changes that saw him drop back to the peloton at 40km to go.

Things then got worse, as Froome was dropped by the lead group and then crashed in the closing kilometres, remounting to finish a few minutes down. 

"That was a rough day. I felt like I wanted to have a crack at it," Froome said later. "You could see the whole peloton was just pegged about halfway through so I thought I would go for it and get stuck in and see what I had in the legs. 

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"The goal was to get over that last climb on my own and see if I could make it down to the finish. I wasn’t far off. I think I had a 30-40 second lead on the Euskaltel guy [counter-attacker Mikel Iturria] behind me and about a minute and a half on the peloton.

"I got a front wheel puncture and I didn’t have a team car behind me as they had already pulled the team car out. I managed to get another wheel from neutral service but it wasn’t really compatible with the bike so I had to stop again and change it with my team car. Then the peloton caught me and surged over the top of the climb and that’s where the lights went out for me."

Froome's day only deteriorated from there as he hit the deck avoiding a car in the road, thankfully avoiding any major injuries in the process.

"I was chasing with a couple of guys to try and get back on, on the descent, but I came around the corner and the QuickStep car had stopped as one of their riders had crashed," Froome said.

"So I came around the corner on the limit and there was the car in the road so I had to abandon and get off into the ditch. So, I scratched myself up a bit but thankfully, there doesn’t seem to be any damage."

Only in this sport can so much be thrown at you! A solo breakaway, 2 wheel changes, and a crash later…Froomey gave it everything today 👏 He finished a few minutes down on winner Ormiston.🇷🇼 #TdRwanda23 pic.twitter.com/ytawLcVfYE February 23, 2023

Glory on the stage would eventually be claimed by Callum Ormiston (Global 6 Cycling), who powered to victory with a solo attack late on. 

Earlier in the race, Froome said that he was happy to be in Rwanda and making his debut at the eight-day event, though he emphasised that he wasn't aiming for the GC, instead looking to build form for later goals.

"I'm going to keep fighting every day," Froome told local reporters before the stage. "Even just to be here, to be racing and pushing is good for the next races, for the preparation

"I'm really happy to be here. I'm realistic – I'm not going to be winning this Tour of Rwanda because I'm not in the top shape to win the races yet. My big target will be in July for the Tour de France so now starts my preparation for July."

As well as building up for future races alongside the team's development riders Roi Weinberg, Nadav Raisberg and Cole Kessler , Froome and the Israel-Premier Tech team have been in the country to inaugurate the 'Field of Dreams' bike centre in the country.

The project is the end result of a campaign launched at last year's Tour de France with a special edition kit and fundraising aimed at building the centre, pump track, and 1.2km race track in Bugesera.

"Witnessing the joy on the kids' faces while they rode felt like a great victory," Froome said at the inauguration last week. "It is a game-changer project."

The centre, which is the first of its kind in the region, was broken in by the Israel-Premier Tech squad, who took part in a race against a local women's cycling team, who had been supported by the WorldTour team over the past two years.

Going forward, the facility will be used by the Rwandan Cycling Federation and will also play host to coaching, training and racing sessions for children from Bugusera and the surrounding area.

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Dani Ostanek is Senior News Writer at Cyclingnews, having joined in 2017 as a freelance contributor and later being hired full-time. Prior to joining the team, they had written for numerous major publications in the cycling world, including CyclingWeekly and Rouleur.

Dani has reported from the world's top races, including the Tour de France, World Championships, and the spring Classics. They have interviewed many of the sport's biggest stars, including Mathieu van der Poel, Remco Evenepoel, Demi Vollering, and Anna van der Breggen.

As well as original reporting, news and feature writing, and production work, Dani also oversees How to Watch guides and works on The Leadout newsletter throughout the season. Their favourite races are Strade Bianche and Paris-Roubaix and their favourite published article is from the 2024 edition of the latter: 'Unless I'm in an ambulance, I'm finishing this race' – Cyrus Monk, the last man home at Paris-Roubaix

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Tour du Rwanda

Official Sponsor of the Yellow Jersey

Visit Rwanda, in partnership with the European Union are proud to be the Official Sponsor of the Yellow Jersey for the 16th Tour du Rwanda.

This year, the 16th edition of the UCI 2.1 Level Tour du Rwanda will begin from 18 February and last till 25 February 2024. The race is organised by the Rwanda Cycling Federation, the Ministry of Sports and other partners.

The Tour du Rwanda is one of Africa™s most celebrated cycling events. Its route is across the length and breadth of the visually stunning country of 1000 hills. If visiting Rwanda has been on your bucket list, the Tour du Rwanda offers the perfect chance to fulfil your dreams. This race offers you a chance to see with your own eyes every corner of the country as it takes you on an exhilarating journey through the Northern, Southern, Eastern and Western provinces and ultimately finishing in the heart of the capital, Kigali.

Africa's Leading Cycling Race

• 8 days of racing
• 6 cities and 8 stages
• 4 provinces crossed with final stage in the heart of the capital, Kigali

The 20 teams in the Tour du Rwanda 2024:

UCI PRO TEAMS

• Israel-Premier Tech (Israel)
• TotalEnergies (France)
• Polti-Kometa (Italy)
• Bingoal-WB (Belgium)

UCI CONTINENTAL TEAMS

• Java Inovotec (Rwanda)
• May Stars (Rwanda)
• Soudal – Quick-Step (Belgium)
• Astana Qazaqstan Development Team (Kazakhstan)
• Lotto Dstny Development Team (Belgium)
• Groupama-FDJ (France)
• Bike Aid (Germany)
• Development Team DSM-Firmenish (Netherlands)

NATIONAL TEAMS

• South Africa

MIXED AFRICAN NATIONS TEAM

• World Cycling Centre Africa

Discover Rwanda

Sports & adventure.

• Responsible Tourism

Gorilla Tracking

Photo Credit : Annabel Illingworth

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Tour du Rwanda Route, Stages and Results 2023

Match starts in 2 hrs 35 mins

ENG Women won by 178 runs

United States of America

Match starts in 35 mins

Netherlands

Match starts in 5 hrs 5 mins

Papua New Guinea

Match starts in 4 hrs 5 mins

West Indies

Match yet to begin

Gloucestershire

Match starts in 3 hrs 5 mins

Northamptonshire

Worcestershire

Storm chose to field.

Thunder need 33 runs in 43 balls.

Cameroon Women tour of Rwanda 2024 Schedule & Results

Rwanda Women

Cameroon Women

Rwanda Women won by 102 runs

Botswana Women

Nigeria Women

Zimbabwe A Women

Malawi Women

Kenya Women

Uganda Women

Cameroon Women tour of Rwanda 2024 Matches

Cameroon women tour of rwanda, top wicket takers, top run scorers.

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Rwanda is transforming and growing — but at what cost?

Juana Summers

Tinbete Ermyas

Rwanda's post-genocide transformation has been remarkable, but uneven. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Rwanda's post-genocide transformation has been remarkable, but uneven.

KIGALI, Rwanda — Staring at the skyline in this city, you can't miss the tiered dome of the Kigali Convention Center. At night, its blue, yellow and green lights can be seen from the surrounding hilltops.

Completed in 2016, it's known to be the most expensive building on the African continent, and a project that's special to Rwandan President Paul Kagame.

Staff inside the complex say he comes by "every day" to check on the progress. While that's almost certainly an exaggeration, the building is one of the most visible signs of the ways in which the country has changed since Kagame came to power in the years after the brutal genocide shocked the world.

Yet that transformation has been uneven, happening under the tight rule of a president who faces little opposition. And it prompts many questions, including: what type of leader is needed to help a country grow and heal from such a devastating past?

The Kigali Convention Center is an imposing structure. Edwin Remsberg / VWPics/Universal Images Group via Getty Images hide caption

The Kigali Convention Center is an imposing structure.

Development. Innovation. Growth.

Last month, Rwanda marked 30 years since the genocide in which nearly one million people, most of them ethnic Tutsis, were killed. As many as a quarter million Rwandan civilians took part in the killings. Neighbors brutally attacked their neighbors.

As world leaders descended on Kigali to mark the moment, Kagame said that Rwanda has had a long journey, but "the tremendous progress of our country is plain to see and it is the result of the choices we made together to resurrect our nation."

Tourism is a key part of Rwanda's development plan. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Tourism is a key part of Rwanda's development plan.

Rwanda is hoping to draw more tourists to the country. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Rwanda is hoping to draw more tourists to the country.

Today, the country projects an image of post-genocide harmony. Ethnicities are no longer on ID cards and are not publicly discussed. Some of those who survived the killing now live side-by-side with perpetrators .

And Rwanda has made other measurable gains. Life expectancy is up, as is tourism – which these days makes up 11% of the country's GDP. Tourists come to see the famous gorillas, and high-end packages to trek with them can cost thousands of dollars a day.

Tourism has become so entrenched in the redevelopment plan of the country under Kagame that the beckoning logo of the #VisitRwanda ad campaign is now on the jerseys of European soccer teams, like Arsenal in London.

Then there are the luxury hotels, tech startups and a new stadium that hosts an offshoot of the NBA, the Basketball Africa League .

For Albert Rudatsimburwa — a political analyst who lived abroad during the genocide — Kagame is the catalyst for all that Rwanda has achieved.

"When I came back, it was joy and tears," he said. "Joy because it had been a journey to witness the rebirth of a nation – that is the most incredible part."

Albert Rudatsimburwa says president Kagame has done a good job. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Albert Rudatsimburwa says president Kagame has done a good job.

Rudatsimburwa lives just a few doors down from Kagame and says the president is a skilled leader. He ticks through some of Kagame's accomplishments since coming to power in 2000 – "big steps," he calls them – like the number of women in government leadership, the broad medical care coverage, and the country's massive internet connectivity.

"Even the gorillas can take selfies and post them on Instagram in the middle of the jungle" he jokes.

Rudatsimburwa is not alone in crediting Kagame and the ruling political party, the Rwandan Patriotic Front [RPF]. Kagame enjoys massive support in the country and has already been elected three times .

Among the most touted achievements is how Rwanda is now home to a number of tech startups who see it as a fertile ground for innovation.

Zipline workers pack and send drones off to hospitals. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Zipline workers pack and send drones off to hospitals.

About an hour south of the capitol, a company called Zipline operates a fleet of drones that carry blood and other medical supplies to health facilities across the country, where they are in short supply. One study showed that drone blood deliveries reduced in-hospital maternal deaths from postpartum hemorrhage by more than half .

Abdoul Salam Nizeyimana, a genocide survivor, was Zipline's first Rwandan employee, and says the government prioritizes innovation and is "willing to take bets" on new technologies.

"When you survive an atrocity, it's like you're given a second chance to live," he said of his life post-genocide.

The drone program is just one example of the country's – and this president's – search for development and advancement, which feels messianic at times. Another is "Umuganda" – a nationwide holiday on the last Saturday of each month that celebrates community service projects, like road cleaning.

A Zipline worker carries part of a drone from storage over to the belt where the drone will be sent out. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

A Zipline worker carries part of a drone from storage over to the belt where the drone will be sent out.

Zipline packages are collected after being received by nurses at Kabgayi Hospital in the Southern Province of Rwanda. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Zipline packages are collected after being received by nurses at Kabgayi Hospital in the Southern Province of Rwanda.

The fact that all Rwandans are required by law to participate gets at some of the tension in this nation, post-genocide. Read one way, Umuganda is a remarkable act of unity and shared responsibility, which countries like the U.S. couldn't fathom outside of war or national disaster.

But flip that coin, and you get a picture of strongman authoritarianism, cultish devotion to the ruling party, and a series of draconian punishments for those who dare step out of line.

Repression. Arrests. Silence.

"Rwanda has made some really striking and remarkable progress in terms of economic gains, in terms of access to health, in terms of education promotion," says Lewis Mudge, the Central Africa director for Human Rights Watch.

"Unfortunately, those changes have not been matched in terms of affording people basic rights: civil and political rights, rights to express themselves freely, whether that be in the press, or at the ballot box. Rights to challenge the government."

Mudge describes democracy in Rwanda as a "performance," and that political opposition is virtually nonexistent. His view is that Rwandans want to vote "in an election in which it's not just ticking the box for Paul Kagame because they have to."

President Paul Kagame delivers his speech during the commemorations of the 30th anniversary of the 1994 Rwandan genocide in April. Luis Tato/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

President Paul Kagame delivers his speech during the commemorations of the 30th anniversary of the 1994 Rwandan genocide in April.

Mudge knows the county well. He lived and worked in Rwanda for four years, but says he was kicked out by the government in 2018 – making him the third Human Rights Watch researcher to have been ejected from Rwanda in the past decade.

It's hard to find anyone living inside Rwanda who will offer even faint criticism of Kagame. One of the few who does speak openly is Victoire Ingabire Umohoza, an opposition leader in Kigali.

"Kagame was the strongman that we needed after the genocide," she said. "But today we need a fresh perspective, a fresh blood and fresh new leadership in our country."

Umohoza challenged Kagame in the 2010 election, but was arrested and imprisoned on terrorism and conspiracy charges. She spent eight years in prison, five in solitary confinement. Umohoza was pardoned by Kagame in 2018 and released from prison, but she can't leave the country, she says, even to visit her husband in the Netherlands who is very sick.

"The government refuses to give me authorization to visit him," she said.

Critics of president Kagame say opposition is quashed until his rule. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Critics of president Kagame say opposition is quashed until his rule.

And she was barred from challenging Kagame in national elections this year. "So that is really the problem we have in our country ... if [citizens] dare to say something to challenge the authorities, they are labeled to be the enemy of Rwanda."

Critics of Kagame say that those who challenge him risk more than imprisonment, and they point to the story of gospel singer Kizito Mihigo, once one of Rwanda's most popular artists. Mihigo lost his parents in the genocide and was said to be close to the president's family.

But a decade ago, he released the song " Igisobanuro Cy'urupfu ," which included lyrics that crossed the red line in Rwanda politics post genocide. It called for empathy for both Tutsi and Hutu victims of the fighting.

In Rwanda, officially, the 1994 genocide is called the "genocide against the Tutsis." Mihigo was convicted and imprisoned on treason charges. He was later released, but in 2020 he was re-arrested when he tried to flee the country. He was found dead in a police station a short time later.

Mudge, from the Human Rights Watch, doesn't believe the narrative that Mihigo died by suicide in prison. "He was a friend of mine," Mudge said. "I was in touch with him 24 hours before he died and I do not think he killed himself."

Mudge says the harassment against those who do challenge the Kagame government is meant to send a clear message: "It's best just to keep quiet and shut up."

Paul Rusesabagina at the Supreme Court in Kigali on February 17, 2021. Simon Wohlfahrt/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

Paul Rusesabagina at the Supreme Court in Kigali on February 17, 2021.

Today, you have two Rwandas," says Paul Rusesabagina , the hotelier turned dissident whose story inspired the film Hotel Rwanda . Rusesabagina's ties to the Rwanda Movement for Democratic Change, a group that opposes Kagame's rule, have cost him dearly.

In 2021, Rusesabagina says he was kidnapped, tried and imprisoned in Rwanda for two years and seven months. He was forced to sign a letter stating that he would not criticize the government.

Speaking from his home in the U.S., Rusesabagina says there is presently one Rwanda for the elite and then there is the "other" Rwanda: "Rwanda today is more or less a boiling volcano, you've got many people who have been silenced – and others who are silencing them."

Rwanda holds national elections in July. Umohoza will not be on the ballot, but Kagame will, running virtually unopposed . The all-but-certain win would extend his official rule to nearly a quarter century. Rwanda changed its constitution in 2015 to nullify term limits that would have capped Kagame's term, and the last time he stood for an election, the records state he won with 99% of the vote.

The development of Rwanda hasn't been evenly felt, some observers say. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

The development of Rwanda hasn't been evenly felt, some observers say.

NPR made multiple requests to Kagame and was not granted an interview. We reached out to the Rwandan government for comment for this story and spokesperson Yolande Makolo sent a reply:

"Rwandan democracy is delivering progress for Rwandan people. People are free to criticize us, but all the evidence shows that Rwanda is advancing across every sector of society. But of course, there's more to do and we're a work in progress ... the idea that there are 'two Rwandas today' is ridiculous. The Rwandan government is delivering progress for all Rwandans."

• Rwanda genocide

Rwanda plan on hold until general election

Rishi Sunak frames future of deportation scheme as the 'choice' before voters in July

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No deportation flights to Rwanda will take off before the 4 July general election, Rishi Sunak has said, but he vowed that the scheme would go ahead if he is re-elected.

Embarking on a whistle-stop tour of England, Scotland and Wales on his first day of election campaigning, the prime minister said flights to the Rwandan capital, Kigali, would go ahead "in July", adding "that's the choice at this election". 

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Sunak emphasised that preparations were still under way, with "airfields on stand-by" and caseworkers "churning through everything". "If I'm re-elected as your prime minister, those flights will go to Rwanda," he said.

His announcement "casts the policy as central to the political race", said Al Jazeera , in an election where "immigration is expected to be a prominent issue".

Shadow home secretary Yvette Cooper said the move was proof that Sunak "doesn't believe this plan will work, and that's why he called the election now in the desperate hope that he won't be found out". The Rwanda scheme is "a con from start to finish", she added.

The delay creates further uncertainty for the asylum seekers already being held in detention, said The Independent . There are fears of "more suicide attempts and hunger strikes", because detainees feel there is "no hope".

The Rwanda deportation plan isn't the only part of the government's agenda that is on hold, said The Guardian . Flagship legislation including plans to phase out smoking and end no-fault evictions have been "left hanging in the balance" and will "probably not be introduced to Parliament before the election".

Other "significant bills to fall by the wayside" include "Martyn's law", named after a victim of the 2017 Manchester Arena bombing,, said the Financial Times . 

Sunak previously assured the victim's mother that the bill, which would increase anti-terror measures at UK event venues, would appear in the House before the summer recess, but it is not on a list of laws to be rushed through before Parliament is prorogued at the end of today. "The omission triggered accusations Sunak had gone against his word."

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Arion McNicoll is a freelance writer at The Week Digital and was previously the UK website’s editor. He has also held senior editorial roles at CNN, The Times and The Sunday Times. Along with his writing work, he co-hosts “Today in History with The Retrospectors”, Rethink Audio’s flagship daily podcast, and is a regular panellist (and occasional stand-in host) on “The Week Unwrapped”. He is also a judge for The Publisher Podcast Awards.

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Tour du Rwanda

•   »  

• 1 VINOKUROV Alexandre
• 2 AGUILERA Nil *
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• 4 ZANINI Simone *
• 5 DOSTIYEV Ilkhan

• 11 LECERF William Junior
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• 45 KRETSCHY Moritz

• 51 BERLIN Antoine
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• 65 MUNYANEZA Didier

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• 72 GAROSIO Andrea
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• 74 SERRANO Javier (DNS #4)
• 75 RESTREPO Jhonatan

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• 121 MEKURIA Solomon * (OTL #7)
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• 123 REDAE Bizay Tesfu (DNF #4)
• 124 TEKLEHAYMANOT Tesfay (DNF #2)
• 125 TAHA Jafar Amir *

• 131 FERHAT Ashraf * (OTL #4)
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• 145 MUGALU Shafik * (OTL #4)

• 151 GRMAY Tsgabu
• 152 AMAN Awet
• 153 FERKOUS Ayoub (DNF #2)
• 154 SHYAKA Janvier * (OTL #3)
• 155 ROGORA Kiya (OTL #4)

• 161 KUDUS Merhawi
• 162 EYOB Metkel
• 163 AREFAYNE Aklilu *
• 164 ZERAI Nahom
• 165 MULUGETA Yafiet *

• 171 TEUGELS Lennert
• 172 SALBY Alexander
• 173 VAN POPPEL Sébastien
• 174 MEENS Johan
• 175 VILLA Giacomo

• 181 PIAT William (DNF #7)
• 182 MATOMBE Hanson (OTL #4)
• 183 MAYER Alexandre
• 184 ROUGIER-LAGANE Christopher
• 185 MAYER Gregory (DNF #8)

• 191 ARERUYA Joseph
• 192 TUYIZERE Etienne (OTL #5)
• 193 TUYIZERE Hashimu * (OTL #4)
• 194 BYUKUSENGE Patrick
• 195 MUGISHA Moise
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