trek 2100 carbon

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At a glance

Trek’s 2100 is an American-made rocket ship. With its ZR 9000/carbon frame and Bontrager carbon fork, the ride is ultra efficient for effortless speed and velvety smooth for all-day comfort. Small hills disappear beneath the Bontrager Select wheels and large ones seem easy as you attack them on this gossamer thoroughbred. Shifting is a thought-free process, too, with the Shimano 105 STI levers. Plus, a generous allotment of Bontrager parts will keep you rolling for years and Bontrager Race Crankset.

Where To Buy

Specifications

• Hubs See Rims/Wheels
• Chain Bontrager Select
• Handlebar Bontrager Select VR, 31.8mm
• Saddle Bontrager Race Basic

Q: How much is a 2007 Trek 2100?

A 2007 Trek 2100 is typically priced around $1,460 USD when new. Be sure to shop around for the best price, and also look to the used market for a great deal.

Q: What size 2007 Trek 2100 should I get?

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Trek 2100 Road Bike

Frame Material: aluminum, carbon seat stays Frame Angles: 73.8 head, 73.5 seat Sizes: 50cm, 52cm, 54cm, 56cm, 58cm, 60cm, 63cm Colors: Blue Fork: Bontrager Race Carbon Rear Shock: Not applicable Brake Levers: Shimano 105 STI Dual Control Handlebar: Bontrager Race Lite Stem: Bontrager Race Lite Headset: 1 1/8" threadless Cane Creek Front Der: Shimano Tiagra Crankset: Bontrager Race, 30/42/52 teeth Rear Der: Shimano Ultegra GS Pedals: Shimano PD-M520 SPD Tires: 700 x 25c Bontrager Select

• USER REVIEWS

Ride, handling, component group

Seat, imagine that!

I've mountain biked for many years and have just now decided to try road biking. So, this is my first road bike and I am very pleased with it. I bought it as a left over model. The price and spec's were the determining factors. It rides smooth and true.

Great value for the money, especially on sale! Ultegra (rear) Low count spokes Spd pedals standard

Seat it is always the seat

I bought this bike on sale and have been completly satisfied with the purchase. I researched a lot of bikes and nearly bought a Felt F75 which almost identical to the 2100. I also looked a specialized Allez, but I think you get a little more with Trek, ultegra(rear), Cane creek brakes and low count spoke wheels. The ride is exceptionally smooth, I can ride all day with little or no soreness. the 105's function as they should and the rear ultegra derailuer is as smooth as the rest of the bike. I plan on riding this bike for a long time and have installed aero bars for the triathlons I do. I also want to thank all the people who have posted here, I used this site a lot when i was shopping and found the reviews a great help... THANKS!!

Similar Products Used:

Cannondale sr 700 (1990)

good entry level bike, though you can get a lot more for the money if you are willing to buy used (very risky though)

The wheels it comes with take some TLC, I've ruined two rears and one front wheel from usage(also the 5 or so wrecks I've had probably didn't help)

I bought this bike two years ago with an unclear idea of what I wanted to do with cycling. The price point appealed to me, as I had no other knowledge of bicycles. I road the bike into the ground for several months. Never changed a tire or tube, no chain lubing, no real maintenance at all. Shortly there after I decided to actually join a cycling team, since that time I've become a bicycle mechanic, so it does tend to get taken care of now. Long story short, the bike does everything it should, I'm a big guy, over 190 and it has been solid for me. Though the components aren't the best they do work well for a fairly long time. I've been riding over 10k miles a year and have gotten fairly lucky I guess. Two of my very close friends also bought this bike after seeing the increase in fitness I had as well as the enjoyment to be had on a bike. So I would recommended this bike to a friend who was interested in getting into cycling. I would get another one myself as my current bike is no longer safely ridable after my latest wreck, but I think I'll probably upgrade a bit instead.

Good Strong Bike...a good overall buy.

the Seat was the worst...Change that ASAP. The Race wheels are not great

I bought this bike to start riding bikes and get fit again. Once I started to Scycle I loved it. This was a great bike to buy because the Fram is pretty good and the bike has enough features that you don't grow out of it fast. This was a great first bike to have. I have ranked this bike a 4, beacuse It's not the top end bike, buy it is a nice bike.

Just got a GURU Crono'Alu

105 is super solid and besides for the seat and pedals the bike is really well specd' for the price.

The seat is crappy, but to be honest I switched it out when I bought the bike. The bottom bracket is begining to creek.. The cane creek brakes need to be pushed square from time to time but I think most road brakes are that way.

This bike is great. I have had it about 8 months, but I waited to have a full season to give it a honest review. I probably have about a 1000+ miles on it and I have done one dualatlon and two tri's with it. I have a 63cm and I am 6' 5" and it fits me well. I highly recommend the bike rack. Hal, (one of the owners) spent an hour with me fitting the bike and did not charge me an extra cent. I have put some decent miles on it and it still has not been back for a tune up! I could not affoard a full carbon bike, so i appriciate the carbon stays. I guess I really do not know any better becasue I came riding a mt. bike.

none. as stated above first road bike

- Very responsive - Good components for the price - Comfortable and smooth

- Seat - Brakes could be better - A few "creaking" noises when climbing uphill

I'd been riding a Trek 7200 hybrid for about two or three years and have wanted to upgrade to a road bike for some time. After a little research, I decided the 2100 had most of things I wanted (Plus, AMX had it in their membership rewards program!) Now that I've had the bike for about three months I wonder why I didn't upgrade sooner. It's been exactly what I was hoping for in an entry level machine. It's light, responsive, fast, and maybe most important reliable. (since I'm not the best mechanic) The bike came with mostly 105 componentry and Ultegra for the rear deraileur. Generally, I'm impressed with how smooth each shift is. However, at times I do have trouble going from the small chain ring to the big chain ring in the front. I may have my local shop take look to see if it needs adjusting. I did upgrade the pedals to 105's, and will probably get a new seat soon. The one it came with just doesn't cut it. Since I'm new to the sport, I can't decide if brakes on a road bike just don't work as well as on other bikes, or if the Cane Creek brakes need to be upgraded.

Trek 7200 (if you call that similar)

Cost, Drivetrain, feel

Losts of frame flex the seat sucks replace it before you leave the store Wheels aren't great

This is the second year I have had this bike . It is a good commuter/recreational bike. I bought the bike to train for mountain bike racing and start to get into road racing. It is not a race bike unless you have no power. I rip the chain off the big ring all the time, do to frame flex. I first lost the chain sprinting. The club I race with told me to try lossening me grip on the bar, that helped but it is not confidence inspiring to sprint without closing your hands on the bar. I have also lost the chain setted powering up climbs. So let me be clear this bike is not bad but may not be the best for a powerfull guy getting into racing

Cannondale Cervelo

Very stiff, pretty light, nice and fast.

Cane Creek brakes come out of alignment every once in a while.

I bought this bike in September last year, and have ridden it around 1400 miles since. It's a really nice bike. I've taken it on a one-night cycle-camping trip with a 13 pound load, and it held a line really well. The only thing I can find to complain about is that the Cane Creek 3 brakes are always coming out of alignment. It's easy enough to fix, just a few turns of a screw, but it can be annoying on longer rides. The stock saddle is also a bit hard, but it's not too bad. (I've ridden on it 1400 miles and I'm not dead yet, though I am planning to get another one.) It is a good bike, though. Great for a beginner wanting a good bike that won't need upgrading unless you want to become a racer, and even then it could suffice.

Older steel Bianchi,

Acceleration, price, weight, and it looks really good.

TCT carbon sucks compared to OCLV carbon. See summary above.

I really bought the bike at $1499.99 + tax but I upgraded the 105 to an Ultegra, the Bontrager Select stem to an Easton EA70, the Bontrager Race Lite to a Shimano WH-R550, the tires from Bontrager to Kenda Kaliente. Anyway the bike has been great. Fast acceleration, very light because of Trek's exclusive ZR9000 alloy, an is relatively cheap for its type, especially when I bought it during the Trek discount says. There is just one problem I got with the bike. The carbon seatstays are not as good as the OCLV carbon, because just after using the bike for about 300 kilometers without crashes, I found a void with a small 4mm crack just behind the brake caliper. It's minor but it's still a visible air pocket.

nice ride, very valuable price.

saddle, and TCT carbon

My 2100 is worth $2000 because I upgraded it with a full Ultegra 10-speed groupset. The bike works nicely. It accelerates fast and it's lighter than many bikes of its category because of its ZR9000. The Bontrager Bzzzkills and carbon fiber seat stays make the ride very smooth. Although the carbon fiber is nothing too special. It is only TCT and with only about 300 kilometers on it without scratches, I have already discovered a void just behind the rear brake caliper. There is a small crack about 4mm in length which may have caused the air pocket.

specialized

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• Rider Notes

2007 Trek 2100

An aluminum frame race bike with high-end components and rim brakes. Compare the full range

For This Bike

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A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

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Last updated June 29 Not listed for 2,508 days

2007 Trek 2100 60cm

$ 899.99

2007 Trek 2100 60cm (Made in the USA) that will fit 6’0″-6’3″. This bike rides great and handles like a race bike with the gear range to go fast. You will have a big smile after each ride. Only 19.51 lbs with pedals!

Out of stock

Description

Additional information.

• Frame:  ZR 9000 Alloy w/TCT Carbon seat stays (Note: small ding on the top tube)
• Fork:   Bontrager Race Carbon
• Wheelset: Mavic Cosmos (Upgraded)
• Tires: Continental Gatorskins 700×25
• Crankset: Shimano 105 52/42/30 FC-R7000 175mm (Upgraded)
• Pedals: New Platform
• Shifter:  Shimano 105 STI, 10-speed ST-5700 (Upgraded)
• Front: Shimano 105, FD-R7000 (Upgraded)
• Rear Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra , RD-6600 (Upgraded)
• Cog: Shimano 105 12-27, 10 speed CS-5700 (Upgraded)
• Brakeset :  Cane Creek 3 w/Shimano 105 STI levers
• Seat Post:   Bontrager Carbon
• Handlebars: Bontrager Select, 31.8 44cm
• Stem:  Bontrager Select , 31.8, 110mm
• Tape: Sram Black tape
• Cables and Housing: Jagwire/Shimano/Sram

• A) Seat Tube: 60cm Center to Top Tube
• B) Effective Seat Tube: 60cm
• C) Effective Top Tube: 58cm
• D) Top Tube: 58cm
• E) Wheel Base: 100.5cm
• F) Standover Height to Top Tube: 84cm/ 33 inches
• G) Head Tube: 18cm
• H) Reach: 38cm
• I) Stack: 60cm

Note: Measurements can be .5 +/-

This is an awesome bike, just a few scratches but an overall beautiful bike, paint Halo. This bike is ready to ride!

The Guy High-Performance Tune-up:

• Adjusting Hubs (Overhaul if needed)
• True Wheels
• Installing tubes and tires (if needed)
• Adjusting Headset
• Adjust Front and Rear Derailleur
• Front Derailleur
• Rear Derailleur
• Adjusting Brakes and Clean Inspect Brake Pads
• Installing any Cable and Housing (if needed)
• Wrap Bars (if needed)
• Safety inspection of the frame and all parts
• Detail Polish

So, purchase USED with confidence that you will have a finely tuned bike

A little about the seller:

I’ve been in the cycling industry for more than 30 years (I know, that makes me old!). I’ve been a professional bicycle mechanic for most of those years, including working locally at Lee’s Cyclery before they became Trek Stores. Now I work from home as a Customer Success Manager for a software team. But I still love fixing up and working on bikes, and riding them too!

Purchase from me with peace of mind. Not only can you trust my years of experience, but I will also fit you for the bike and provide any mechanical insight at the time of purchase. No warranties or refunds are provided. The bikes are sold as-is. But It includes follow-up minor adjustments and fitting if needed within the first 30 days if sold locally.

Shipping information:

I ship UPS Ground and the bike is disassembled. I do have a video to help in putting back together.  Usually, it’s the Bars, Front Wheel, Pedals, and Seatpost that need to be put back on. I try to keep it simple. It will be packed very well, but if you see any damage to the box or bike keep the box and packing material plus, take pictures. I do insure all bikes that are shipped and require a signature. In addition, if shipped out of Colorado, there is no Sales Tax.

Colorado customers, try to buy Local. Info below:

For Local Purchases Only:

If you’re local to Loveland, Colorado, it is highly recommended to come to check it out in person. A professional fitting is included with each bike sold to ensure you have the right size bike and it fits you. All bike showings are by appointment only, so feel free to grab some time off of my calendar.

Purchase from me with peace of mind. Not only can you trust my years of experience, but I will also fit you for the bike and provide any mechanical insight at the time of purchase. The bikes are sold as-is. No warranties or refunds, provided. But it INCLUDES follow-up minor adjustments and fitting if needed within the first 30 days.

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1992 Trek 2100?

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I am buying a road bike for commuting about 10 miles a day. I was looking for something that is decent but I won't feel too bad beating up on a daily commute. I found what I think is a 1992 Trek 2100. The posting is here, http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/402973694.html . Anyone know anything about this bike?  

Know this bike well. I worked in shops during this period and sold/worked on more than my share of this vintage Trek. Trek made a whole series of carbon tubed, alum lugged/rear triangle bikes. If they lasted they seemed like good examples from this period. HOWEVER, they failed a lot. Tube failures and tube to alum failures. I vividly remember the return pile from that time. I’m not talking one or two frames. All manufactures had/have problems – It’s not a perfect world – but I feel this vintage and series had a few more than I think would be normal. Clearly, the other side is that if it has not failed by now, it could be just fine.  

In regards to the old bike, it does have down tube shifters, which could be dangerous if you are trying to shift in traffic and looking down = crash.  

taikuodo said: In regards to the old bike, it does have down tube shifters, which could be dangerous if you are trying to shift in traffic and looking down = crash. Click to expand...

Thanks for the help on this one. Unfortunately, I have yet to receive a response from the seller which means I probably won't. I have to say I had a bike with down tube shifters and really freaked me out. As a long time mountain biker I like all of my controls right their on the bars. I tried out a tri bike my buddy has with the gears at the end of the aero bars and brakes on the bar. There was a good 1/4 second of panic every time I got to a light  

Sharkey I have a 91 model Trek 2100, with I would guess somewhere around 30K miles on it. It still sees about 1000 miles a year, and I have never had a frame issue with it. The original wheels died years ago, but I have two sets built by your truly that have not let me down. On my 2100, I replaced the original bottom bracket with a sealed unit years ago, but other than that, the bike is original. SPIKE  

How much was the seller asking for it?  

You do realise this thread is 4 years old?  

I do, I was curious about it enough to at least ask. There may be some other people who visit this thread such as yourself that might adequately answer a four year old question.  

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Trek 2100 ZR9000

• Serial: 1450U034TBI0405 TU004T20573Z WL3226878
• Manufacturer: Trek
• Model: 2100 ZR9000
• Primary colors: Red
• Frame size: 54IN
• Frame Material: Carbon or composite

Distinguishing features

Red white and blue with carbon fork and shimano 105 flight deck shifters, cannondale seat, bontrager rims and schwalbe tires

All-new Trek Emonda ALR takes lightweight frame tech to alloy models

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When Trek announced their Emonda carbon road bike line , they backed up their “world’s lightest” claims with an impressive frame and fork and an even more impressive 10.25lb (4.6kg) complete bike. Now, they’re adding an alloy Emonda ALR option that’s also lightweight yet far more affordable.

To earn the Emonda badge, the frame uses their top-level 300-series Alpha Aluminum that’s been hydroformed into size specific tubes, then welded together using a no-see technique that produces smooth joints that use less material to save weight.

The process is called Invisible Weld Technology, which they say produces stronger, stiffer welds despite using less material. Video, pics and more details below…

Trek told us the unpainted frame is 1050g (56), and a painted fork is 358g w/240mm steerer.

Like the ultralight Emonda carbon models, the ALR uses their H2 race geometry, E2 tapered headtube (standard 1-1/8″ to 1-1/2″) and wide Pressfit BB 86.5, meaning this bike is made to go fast. Other frame details include a braze-on front derailleur mount (no need to add a clamp if you’re getting the frameset) and external cable routing.

We’ve requested a more technical description of the welding process (update as we get it), but the frame is only part of the story. The complete bikes come equipped with built-in extras like the a Blendr stem with integrated light/computer mount, and it has Duotrap S compatibility (their ANT+/Bluetooth 4.0 speed/cadence sensor, sold separately for about $60).

You also get a complete group, so the Emonda ALR 6 with Ultregra gets a full Ultegra group from chain to brakes to cassette and everything else. There are no mis-matched parts or down spec’d bits to cut costs. A full carbon fiber tapered fork completes the package.

The Emonda ALR will initially come in two builds, the “6” with full Ultegra, Bontrager Race tubeless ready wheels with R2 tires, and a Bontrager cockpit with alloy short reach/drop bar and carbon seatpost for $2,249.99. Our local Trek Bike Store says complete bike weight is claimed at 17.25lb (7.82kg).

The Emonda ALR 5 drops down to a full Shimano 105 group with non-series Bontrager tubeless ready alloy wheels, R1 tires and a full alloy Bontrager cockpit for $1,759.99. Claimed weight is 18.77lb (8.51kg), colors will be the gloss black/hi-viz yellow and blue shown here, plus a racing red coming soon.

The frameset shares the same paint scheme as the “6” and comes with an FSA sealed cartridge bearing headset for $989.99. The frames have a lifetime warranty carrying a 275lb rider weight limit.

Just for fun, here’s the companion lifestyle video.

All three models shown here are available now and should hit stores soon. Our sources tell us there’ll also be an Emonda ALR 5 with Tiagra, an ALR 8 with Dura-Ace mechanical and ALR 9 with Dura-Ace Di2 coming soon. That last model suggests they’ll have an electronic-only frame, too, since these first models only have external cable routing. At the very top, in terms of light weight anyway, will be the ALR 10 with a full SRAM Red group.

TrekBikes.com

Tyler Benedict is the Founder of Bikerumor.com . He has been writing about the latest bikes, components, and cycling technology for almost two decades. Prior to that, Tyler launched and built multiple sports nutrition brands and consumer goods companies, mostly as an excuse to travel to killer riding locations throughout North America.

Based in North Carolina, Tyler loves family adventure travel and is always on the lookout for the next shiny new part to make his bikes faster and lighter.

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looks like a rebadged Allez

The invisible welding looks a lot like what pretty much every other company calls smooth welding. And has been using for years. You weld the tube normally then go back over it without filler material and “reweld” it. The process smooths out the weld and helps it wet out. REVOLUTIONARY TREK!!!

Interesting that they are using hydroformed tubes but didn’t choose the aero tube shapes of the Madone design.

@Robert W – my sources say the Madone is on the way out. & if the story is about weight vs. areo it would make sense to mimick the emonda shapes. Also, the 2 series aluminum frames are already Madone-esqe.

I always find it funny that companies state how they’ve extensively optimized tube shapes for their flagship carbon fiber bikes, but then seemingly can successfully apply those shapes to materials with very different properties. There is a little marketing lie in their somewhere.

Anyway. Glad to see these Al bikes. CF has been getting too pricey fort me.

I like how they quote an unpainted frame weight, then only offer it in a painted variety. But lets also make sure we pair that unpainted weight with a painted fork weight.

Looks legit. Seeing they are coming out of the Giant factory why not put on the overdrive 2 fork and stem and really take it next level?

Aluminum, how quaint.

Why not sell them unpainted if they weight them unpainted? JBikes if I read you right what your saying is the shapes have far mo9re to do with design than engineering.all thes tube shapes are probaly coming from kitchen appliance design firm and they bs riders who rarely go over 20mph that aero is worth buying a new bike for

That Bontrager cycling kit is pretty damn nice. “Understated” as the hipsters like to say.

How about US made aluminum, with giant tubes, some internal routing, and some really funky paint jobs. Oh wait…

Hasn”t specialized already been doing this for like 3 years now? And better welded joints? Revolutionary-nothing is more like it, just another slightly modified copy frame.

Roy – no I was just commenting on the fact it’s stated how non aero tube shapes are optimized for carbon fiber for whatever properties (stiffness, weight, ride) but then a vastly different material can achieve the same with the same tube shapes? I’m sure they vary material thickness and such, but given the vast difference in CF and Al, I’d think tube shapes would vary more between the two materials, unless the CF and Al frames ride completely different.

Jesus, tough crowd. Lightweight aluminum, full component groups and small price tags… Sounds good to me.

Full Ultegra! Well… except the wheels. Of which, the Bontrager Race spec is a few notches below Ultegra…

y’all are haters. you can pick on the marketing and on random bits and pieces but in the end this is the bike you’re going to start seeing at all the local crits and races. So they have weird marketing, worry about the bike and what it can do for you.

Aluminum is the new carbon.

Yeah a bunch of haters here, Go buy a Specialized because they are not owned by the big man, Oh wait, Specialized is own by a conglomerate, and Trek is family owned. Seems like most people don’t understand the definition of “the man” Don’t hate on them just because you don’t like it that more people ride Trek than any other brand in the US.

@Durianrider, you’re killing me! Lol

When you think about it, it’s a bike people actually look for: Workhorse, and the no-nonsense but clean aesthetic.

Considering the Propel SLR might not come stateside, as well as the update TCR SLR before it, it’s nice to have another potential alloy option on the market that isn’t an Allez or CAAD.

I really like where Trek is going with their new paint schemes. Very minimal branding and no stupid racing stripes and decals. Keep it premium!

Jbikes: I understand why you’re asking about why two frames with different materials have the same tube shapes, but in fact they probably should have the same shapes.

In the bike industry (and many others), it’s common practice to design using isotropic material properties (e.g., with aluminum) for a first pass. The resulting stiffness (quantified through FEA) ensures you’re getting the most sectional modulus you can out of a given tube shape. Only then do you go back and design a laminate schedule with anisotropic materials (e.g., carbon fiber).

This allows the designer to clearly separate the modulus (stiffness) due to tube shape and the modulus due to the laminate schedule. That way, each can be optimized as a discrete step.

Except for a few corner cases, optimal frame tube shape is material-independent. Surprising but true!

Looks like a great bike at a good price. I love nice aluminum race bikes. But why no H1 geometry option? It irks me that companies (not just Trek) spec the really race oriented stuff at the high-end of the price scale. I know a short head tube doesn’t work for everyone but why not give us the option? What does the size of your wallet have to do with your flexibility?

I’m wondering if some of the frames are anodized, so unpainted weight would be pretty relevant.

JasonK – thanks! Great info. Never really thought of it that way but it makes sense.

I like the emonda and the CrossRip frame for my commuter. I would seriously consider if I was in the market and carbon was not an option.

Man that’s a light frame. Nice to see they are using full groupset specs.

I wonder if the welding is a form of aluminium brazing using a lower melting temperature brazing rod. I think this is what Shimano do with the external reinforcing tabs on the aluminium rims. This is supposed to be lower strength than welding but coming up with some newer technology is not beyond Trek’s resources. Or maybe they have come up with a way to modify the pulse action of a TIG welder with a certain filler wire application. Either way, the old double pass method for aluminium is old hat now.

Most companies claim unpainted frame weights. Use this general guide: If a company says “…painted frame weight is…” then it’s including paint. If they don’t specifically say painted then you can guarantee it’s an unpainted frame weight.

The only reason I wouldn’t buy one of these is the head tube is too tall…

I applaud Trek for coming out with a ‘light’ and ‘inexpensive’ aluminum frameset but I’m still not sold on the H2 geometry.

Sincerely, Worlds longest head tube.

I like the option of a high end aluminum frame as well….but this one misses the mark for me because trek refuses to make any bike with its “racer” H1 geometry that doesn’t cost at least 4,500 for a frameset. If they only would make H1 options of their emonda sl frame or this new all I’d buy one in a second. Trek already makes a million bike models….why not better fit options? Ever since they did away with the 6 series madone the options for the budget conscious racer have gone to zero. Bleh. And more seatmast length options trek!

Nearly the same weight as a Cannondale frame that was first manufactured out of the same material about 6 years ago

I think this will make a GREAT race frame.

Certainly beats trying to replace a carbon frame someone broke for you in that ‘last corner of the criterium’ crash.

If I see one more I’m-so-flexible-I-can-stick-my-head-up-my-ass comment about the lack of H1 geometry, I might give up trolling comments on bike rumor all together. Seriously, 5 years at a Trek dealer and we sold maybe 3 H1 bikes (all as special order). We ordered dozens more project 1 bikes in the ‘normal’ H2. Working now at a Cervelo dealer I have very few people balk at the head tube height, and MOST are running a positive angle on the stem anyways. At 6’3″ I run 14cm of bar drop. I have had zero issue getting a proper fit on stock bikes, including Trek. Currently on the newly updated (i.e. market norm) stack of the 2015 Cervelo S5 I still have 15mm of spacers under my stem. If H2 geo just doesn’t do it for you, grab a Cannonade with a low profile headset cap and go ride. They are making a bike for the largest market, obviously the budget racers this bike is designed for are too busy riding their bikes to complain on Bike Rumor…..

Looks like a great bike for the money and your avg rider. Nothing wrong with that. Kudos too for specing a complete group build, awesome!

Waiting for my ALR 5 to arrive!! Last bike I bought was in 1986, a Myata One Ten. Hopefully this one will last another 29 years.

uhhh… the allez actually looks good

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/allez/allez-comp-race

the only thing actually missing from these frames are some colorway options like the tarmacs

i had a domane and the headtube was too tall.

i might get one of these. its pretty affordable all things considered.

There doesn’t seem too much, if anything at all, to complain about here. The Emonda ALR frame MSRP is right in line with a CAAD10 frame MSRP ($10 cheaper actually). It looks good, and it’s certainly not a heavyweight bike. If it rides as good as it looks, it will be a great deal.

@MikeC – Are you kidding? I haven’t seen anyone refer to a full groupset as including the wheel since like 1999. Some people are just desperate to find something to bitch about. The Bontrager Race wheels are great. They only weigh 200g more than the Ultegras, and unlike every Shimano wheel, they are specced completely with off-the-shelf parts that are easily purchasable in any bike shop.

@Adam – Yes, because Cannondale were the first company with an aluminum racing bike. You forget the Trek, via Klein, were making awesome lightweight aluminum race bikes when Cannondale was still welding together soda cans.

@H1 Lovers – You’re all on crack. A quarter of the Trek pros don’t even ride the H1, and I promise you that you are not that fast. I can also tick off a list of local heroes, Cat 1 and PRO dudes, who get by just fine on the H2, usually preferring it to the H1.

@Psi – And the Trek is clearly much better specced than the Cannondale, with an Ultegra crank and Bontrager Race wheels, not to mention a cockpit that won’t require immediate replacement.

Wait to you see the next gen cannondale frame before you jump on this..

I am happy this exists. Buyers beware if you crash this thing it’s probably going to dent up like tinfoil.

@badbikemechanic – What makes you say that? There is a generation of high end aluminum out there that holds up just fine to the rigors of daily life. I personally have an aluminum Allez that I regularly leave locked up outside of bars, the grocery store, as well as race, and it hasn’t even scratched the anodized finish yet.

As always, opinions abound….and everyone is “right.” The H1 vs. H2 debate is clearly a hotter topic than I thought. What it boils down to though is “choice.”

Trek offers the option, meaning there are people that prefer it. I rode a 60 cm H1 Madone 6 series last year, and absolutely loved it. Sadly it was a team bike and I had to give it back at the end of the year. In looking for a replacement I want a bike with similar geometry, but don’t want to spend 4,500 to have the OPTION to get the geometry I like. The head tube on the H1 is 18 cm…compared with 21 cm on the H2. That is a LARGE difference. I don’t think anyone is right or wrong to ride whatever geometry they like. All I’m saying is that for me…the H1 geometry is perfect, and I don’t need to run a -17 stem to get my preferred position of the bike. Being a pro, being fast or slow, is irrelevant. I would just like to see the option available at a reasonable price point.

These bikes are epic. And yes, they blow the competition out of the water.

About time Trek offers something for the Joe-Racers out there. Yes, carbon is super nice but you guess what: so is aluminum. I have a locally-made Aluminum bike and it rides *amazing*. So did my old Caad7 and I bet Specialized’s aluminum bike is also fantastic. We need more people in the sport, and to do that we need a much lower entry-level bar. if for $2,200 you get a nice Al Trek with good geometry, good wheels (i own the bontis tlr and they’re indestructible and readily serviceable), good parts and cockpit that are either race-ready or hammer-ready, then god bless Trek. For the record i own a cannondale six and it’s a phenomenal bike. but my aluminum rig is my favorite. way to go, Trek – kudos indeed.

Arguing that “some pros ride H2, therefore nobody needs H1” is well, just a poor excuse for an argument. An H1 aluminum Emonda would be a hit, and I would purchase one as soon as it were available. I’ve owned and ridden both H1/H2 models, and greatly prefer the H1. As an aside, direct mount breaks on this beast would be the icing on the cake. Think about it Trek.

This bike compared with the new caad 12 is nothing …

I’ve got a current model year Allez smartweld frame built up with full 105 and tubeless Shimano wheels. I certainly didn’t do it for $1760 retail, but then some parts on my bike (bars, saddle, tires) are from a very much higher trim level. I’ve also got all the accessories (cages, tools, &c) in my price, and I was unable to use the economy of scale a manufacturer can.

ANYWAY. The ride quality of my Allez is nothing short of amazing considering. It is *as smooth* as my steel 3-speed with 38mm tires over brick roads. I have no problems riding the Allez a hundred miles, though I run out of water. The Allez smartweld is making me completely re-think aluminum as a frame material, especially for amateur racer types.

These Treks seem to DIRECTLY compete with the Allez smartweld introduced last year, which is great, since it engenders competitive designs. When you get an Allez Comp (with 105), you pay less, but you miss out on the excellent 5800 brakes and crankset, and get bog standard training wheels. Moving up to an Allez Expert (with Ultegra), gets you a full groupset with carbon SL-K crank and ‘Fulcrum’ wheels at a competitive price.

I’d love to ride these Treks back to back with my Allez.

I am happy to see Trek jump into the “high end” aluminum market. I have owned & loved several iterations of CAAD’s. I have also read good things about Specialized redesigned Allez frames. I am now hearing of a redesigned CAAD12(?) to be released later this Summer…(anyone else hearing any details?) I would have liked to have seen a disc version from Trek… (Spec as well.) I believe that road disc offerings from every manufacturer will increase exponentially once the pro’s are riding them. I wanted my next road bike purchase to have discs so that I can look for second set of wheels that will be future proof…(thru-axles coming next?) I had my eye this year’s CAAD10 Rival disc, hoping the boys at Cannondale offer an Ultegra disc spec on the CAAD12 later this year. 🙂

Just ordered my alr 6 today! I work at a trek dealer, and I have to say H2 is usually great for 99% of our customers, and they usually have the stem flipped up. For the 1% of people that actually want that huge bar drop, you can always size down and make it look super pro with a longer stem! Nothing wrong with that!

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