2000 excursion cruise control not working

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2001 Excursion V10, cruise control stopped working

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My cruise control went out on my Ford 2001 Excursion Limited V10 model, I understand this is an ongoing problem with most Ford trucks. I just had the recall 05S28 for the cruise control sensor installed but this did not fix the problem. Any trouble shooting ideas? Has anyone repaired this, or am I stuck with the dealer price for repair? Thanks, Jody  

Enter the Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. If the "ON" switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over. The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch. NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes: Flashes Source 2 Flashes BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped) is defective 3 Flashes Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective 4 Flashes Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective How's that?  

I entered the self test diagnostics as you suggested. While I held down the "Off" switch the "cruise" light continued to flash every second, I counted up to nine times then stopped, I thought I messed up tried again and it flashed 10 times. I tried the om, resume, coast, and set/accel and nothing happened, no "cruise" blinking. Does this mean my speed control servo is out? If so where is this located? Is this a doit-yourself type of job? Thanks, Jody  

The switches in the steering wheel may be the culprit. If you take it to a Ford Dealer, they can hook up the computer and monitor the data from the buttons letting the tech know if a button is not working. This will cost you a diagnostic fee plus the repair if you agree to let them do it.  

I hate going to the dealer but it looks like I have no other choice. Thanks  

Let us know how it goes.  

When your cc module is failty which occures quit often, not only by ford but also by audi BMW etc, you can let them get repaired visit Cruise control module amplifier defect? 5GA 004 397 ... or 83.601 or ... www.tempomat.speedlinq.nl for more info.  

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How do i fix cruise control on 2000 ford excursion

Recently the cruise control stopped working. at first the indicator light would come on but not stay on now it does nothing. Checked the fuse that's not it.

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• Expert 77 Answers
• Posted on Sep 04, 2014

• Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
• Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER. The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
• A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes: * 2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped). * 3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective. * 4 Flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
• Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
• Return ignition switch to the OFF position
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Stanley Electric U.S.

• Posted on Aug 06, 2008

SOURCE: cruise control won't work

Does the on light in the dash come on? If not, you may have a broken switch in the steering wheel which is a fairly cheap repair. Otherwise, the controls work through the Printed Circuit Board in your dash (your instrument cluster) and the problem could be as simple as a solder defect or faulty component. The problem is that no Ford Service Technician that I know will touch this and tell you that you need to replace it. The instrument cluster is very easy to replace but may cost you a few more dollars than you want to spend. I would have someone with an electrical background check the cruise control switches in your steering wheel with a multimeter before going any further with this. Also check the wiring for resistance leading from the switch to the cluster.

• Posted on Feb 07, 2009

SOURCE: cruise control

The cruise control should have a fuse in the interior fuse block, and a larger fuse and/or relay under hood in the relay center block. Test them with an automotive test light (You can purchase these for anywhere from $5.00 to $50.00 depending on the quality you want and the place of purchase). If you find a bad fuse or primary fuse, obviously those need to be replaced. Relays can't be tested readily using the light. Unfortunately the simplest method for finding out if a relay is bad is to replace it. The relay for that cruise runs between $15.00 to $20.00 depending where you purchase. Let me know how it goes and we'll see what more we can do!

• 214 Answers
• Posted on Mar 11, 2009

SOURCE: Cruise control stopped working

Check to see if theres a Recall on the Cruise control cut-off switch on the master cylinder.. If so.. replace it asap.. It causes fires.. even with keys out they suddenly erupt.. try that first and lemmie know.. Thnk you

• Posted on Jul 26, 2009

SOURCE: 2004 Ford Freestar cruise control not working

Try pulling up the brake pedal with your foot,Sometimes your brake doesnt come back all the way,and the brake switch keeps the cruise from working.Also,check the fuse.If those answers dont help,It could be the swith itself is bad.Those can be bought at a parts store.

• 984 Answers
• Posted on Feb 23, 2010

SOURCE: 2002 Ford F150. Cruise control stopped working.

Did you have the recall done on it ? recall 05S28. Description: Speed Control Deactivation Switch. It could be a blow fuse in the recall harness, if you did have it done. Try the self test, and see what the results are. If you do not get it into self test mode, it could be the fuse in teh recall harness that is blown. The 1st revision of the recall harness was an inline ATM fuse, not sure if the revision 2 was the same. If that fuse is blown, the switch is leaking, and should be checked. Self-Test Diagnostics WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged. 1. Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch. 2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over. The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch. Note: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes. 3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes: — 2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

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• 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine & Drivetrain

Cruise control not working 2000 7.3L F350

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Greetings I've kind of search around a bunch of different forms and all in trying to see if I can get any other ideas from people. I have a 2000.......7. 3 manual transmission crew cab long bed 4:10 rear end.6 speed manual tranny.2 wheel drive,dually. I do not drive the truck during the winter --and last fall when I put it away everything was fine . during the winter at one point I did change the fuel filter and when I started it up I thought the gasket was tight..... but apparently it wasn't tight ...and some fuel pumped out around the gasket and to the top of the engine and such like that ---and I did see a little smoke coming from the solenoid----( there are two solenoids on top of the engine kind of by the fuel filter )one of them sits lower than the other --I saw those smoke coming out of that area of the wiring on top of the solenoid that sits down,and is closer to the firewall..than the other solenoid . but I've driven the truck 700 miles in one trip since then and no other driveability issues just the cruise is not working I took the truck out on the first time on the road this year for 700 trip and the cruise was not working I checked all the fuses in the normal stuff things be ok --I stopped my first night the second day was raining and try the cruise after 3-4 miles down the road and it worked it worked all day that day---it stop raining about 3-4 in the afternoon the cruise worked all that day . The next day was clear and dry and the cruise did not work then--- and has not worked any days since then. I took to the dealer to see if the recalls have been done(they have) and I checked the switch for the brake master cylinder pressure and that shows good conductivity.-continuity and I'm in the process of replacing the switch for my brake light (the Parking brake light would not always come on when I set the parking brake)..... I did change the brake bulb in the dash-- just in case that was an issue-- but when I checked the circuit before I put this new switch in-- the brake light did come on--with the parking brake on .by jiggling the switch... so any ideas from anybody else....???? I guess there should be 12 volt at the circuit going to the master cylinder switch and I have not checked that yet and I understand there should be 12 votes at the clutch switch when that is not disengaged and then there's also a second switch on the brake pedal itself I still have to check.so anything else think I might have missed ????? Dose this solenoid have anything to do with it??? or I'm kind of hoping for ideas---- the speedometer does not to jump around or anything so I don't think it's the vehicle speed sensor on the rear axle... Any other ideas, voltage readings would be helpful. I have disconnected the batteries and I took the airbag pad off the steering wheel and disconnected the one at the dash the horn circuit works OK and everything so I don't think it's the clock spring and I suppose it could possibly still be the crew switches themselves but the new kind of ideas and how to test those things?.....Arghhhh  

Don't forget to check the third brake light. Not sure if its an issue on standard trucks, but it will wipe out the cruise on an auto.  

Thanks......these are the kind of responses that I was hoping to hear :thup: That are you know specific type things -- yeah last year 3rd brake light did work.. because I can see it in the aluminum on the front of my fifth wheel so I have to see if the third brake light is working. Gonna have to see if I can find out where to get ahold of that tool with you know that kind of bundle in it ---- obviously that is the easiest way to check it. Please...keep any ideas coming......got a much longer trip coming up...and sure want the cruise......L.O.L.  

bfast54 said: Thanks......these are the kind of responses that I was hoping to hear :thup: That are you know specific type things -- yeah last year 3rd brake light did work.. because I can see it in the aluminum on the front of my fifth wheel so I have to see if the third brake light is working. Gonna have to see if I can find out where to get ahold of that tool with you know that kind of bundle in it ---- obviously that is the easiest way to check it. Please...keep any ideas coming......got a much longer trip coming up...and sure want the cruise......L.O.L. Click to expand...

For what it is worth, I had an issue with my clock spring that only affected one of the circuits. I was getting an ABS light. Retrieved a code using AE and referenced it here, pointed towards the clock spring. I replaced and it fixed the problem. My cruise control and horn had continued to function normally before the clock spring replacement. I'm not saying its your issue, I'm just saying don't rule it out.  

I am certainly not opposed to buying the scan tool I've been thinking about getting one for a while----- anyway I just want to be sure I get the right one ?????? and the local Ford dealership you know what -------I asked them about diagnosing it they said that" you know there's no place to put the scanner on the diesel and they have to trace it by hand" and they want $98 to diagnose it '--------well I'm thinking that 98 dollars will go a long ways towards purchasing.one (and I know you can test many things with "obd" that -that truck does have)..I may have been born at night but it wasn't last night Thanks on the clockspring.......thats on my mind- radar also.:no:  

You buy Auto Enginuity directly from the manufacturer. The basic scan tool is $250, and the enhanced Ford package is another $200. If you buy the two together at the same time, you get a $50 discount. You must get the enhanced Ford package in order to communicate with the PowerStroke engine. Everything is laptop based, so you'll need a laptop computer as well. If you post your location, there might be someone near you with the scan tool that could run the test for you. A dealership that says they can't hook up to a PowerStroke is either completely incompetent or is being very dishonest in the interest of charging you for more labor for troubleshooting. You can't use a standard OBD-II scanner with it, but there are several scanners available (AutoEnginuity, Snap-On, and Ford's scanner) that will work just fine. The KOER test only takes a few minutes to accomplish. $98 will get you 25% of the way to having your own scan tool.  

AE from the manufacturer is the most expensive route. You can get it for $359 from almost all of the diesel vendors. http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/autoenginuity-total-ford-enhanced-bundle/  

Twice on mine, it's been the clutch pedal position sensor (located on the clutch pedal by the firewall). I could physically see it was broken.  

I will throw this in I have a 2001 with 4 wheel drive other wise just like yours. Mine sets for days in the phoenix sun and has been doing it for years but I have to press the on button several times to get the cruse to come on but it does work. Figure I will replace the switches in the wheel when they quit for good. Paul  

Thanks for the additional thoughts and comments on this----- I found a repair shop in town that does Powerstroke diesel and seems to be pretty honest cuz I know a couple of the people there -----and so I dropped it off there and they're going to put it on their Sun super tester. They say that they should be able to run the KOER tests and stuff like that ----definitely looking to be more like one of the sensors or connectors--- but which one?????? The best independent diesel shop in town only works on big big trucks so that one was out ------and then another one that works on trucks --3 years ago put the wrong clutch in this truck----- and then denied working on it ----!!!! (I Even had the paperwork) .......and that Shop was off the list right away...... Any and all ideas appreciated..........I will keep you updated and informed when we get this resolved hopefully soon.:thumbsup:  

Ok.....here is the latest........... I dropped the truck off at the independent diesel shop a week ago he put his SUN tester on it ---- they said they have all the updates and things like that ----and it will not communicate with my truck. My truck won't communicate with it- it won't communicate with my truck--- whatever. So, they're not able to check anything diagnose anything with the tester ----so basically it looks like I'm back at square one!!!! The guy I do trust him, although he kind of can be lazy ---he didn't want to do any manual checking--- test any the switches or anything like that ---so I was hoping that the tester would rule out the" KOER"..... with all the cruise switches and clutch switch,brake switch and things like that----- but since it wouldn't communicate none of that was tested and he didn't want to get into any manual testing.... But.... on the bright side he didn't charge me ANYTHING.. so now I'm at the point of where apparently my truck won't communicate with the tester or a tester won't communicate with my truck etc and so I'm back where I started without cruise ---without knowing what's going on--- and now I'm kind of stopped . He did say that he thought maybe the ECM was going bad and that I should get a different one and then he would flash it for $150 --and we go from there . He also asked me why I had my Diablo power chip in there ??????and he said "well why don't you just drive it stock"????????? -so you know-- there's something funky going there too?? So....since I'm getting ready to go on vacation in couple weeks I guess I'm just going to leave everything how it is -----cause.....the truck is running OK and all I don't wanna try pulling out the ECM and getting a different one because that could lead to problems and I'm not even certain that the change in ECM would make it that you could read it ???? And... that it would even help my problem anyway -----?? So... what does anybody think about this????? does anybody think I should--- you know go with one of the companies and they'd send me a rebuilt ECM???? I asked him if he thought having my Diablo chip in it was causing him not to be able to read it ??????and he said no that won't cause that( but that's when he asked why do you have it and why don't you just drive it stock??????) So...that is where It is at....a week later...any ideas??????? Thanks for the help so far.  

Does your cigarette lighter work?  

Yes.......(thats where the Power for the "reader" would come from).......:nono: Thought you could get me ...huh:lol:  

Not the power point, but the cigarette lighter. They're on different fuses. The DTC connector gets its power from the same fuse as the cigarette lighter.  

Just hoping for an easy fix.  

RT............I am hoping its still something.,Easy.....Simple.....BELIEVE ME :thumbsup:  

I really don't want to just start throwing money at it and --- replacing sensors switches etc like that -----only to have it not work---- and have it be something simple like a broken wire or corroaded wire down in a hole underneath where I really can't get to. They have the lift there and everything like that and I was hoping that maybe he would chevk some connectors because of that --- working when it rained---- but didn't even do that for me.:icon_rolleyes:  

Just for kicks, put a voltmeter on pin 16 to verify there is current there. Check pin 4 to verify it is grounded as well. You never know with some of these alarm installing /radio installing hacks - they may have cut a wire.  

Ok.....just to be sure that I know what you're talking -then we're talking same thing --so I should be looking for 12 volts on both pins then -----correct?? On the "O.B.D." PLUG  

Pin 16 of the OBDII plug should be positive 12 volts, pin 4 should be chassis ground.  

I have this diagram taped to the back of my multimeter for reference when I'm under a dashboard. Very handy to have around.  

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RT......Thanks... Andrew ---- Anyway you can link the thumbnail?????? Cannot read it,and if I blow it up...it gets blurry???? Thsnks Again guys.........:thumbsup:  

Here's a link with a good picture - OBDII - On-Board Diagnostic's System - Does My Car Have OBD-II? The Connector and Communications.  

Thanks R.T  

Ok.............I degreased and power wash the rear end-----rear axle mounted vehicle speed sensor .......from the top of axle rear end assy.....and pulled it...... looks ok,no metsl shavings,etc..... so just wondering any way to test it or??????? So wondering if I should I go ahead and replace it anyway since that would eliminate that being the problem.....II know that replacing it ----- speed sensor ---- helped other people to get the cruise going. probably between a $50 dollar $75 part depending on where I get it( did some pre pricing) I can then rule it out as the cause So....... any thoughts from anybody????:read:  

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• 99-03 7.3L Powerstroke Problems

Cruise Control Not Working.

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My cruise control isn't working anymore. None of the buttons on the steering wheel do anything. I think I have checked the proper fuses etc.. Can anyone walk me through this?  

quite a few possibilities. here is the wiring diagram. definitely gonna require some back probing. SM  

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• cruise control wiring diagram.pdf 62.2 KB Views: 1,136

If you have a manual trans check the clutch pedal position sensor--$40 at Napa and it fixed my cruise control issue. If it will start without depressing the clutch to the floor then that is your huckleberry! Good Luck!  

Sounds like you probably need a new clockspring. Check fuses first. The clockspring is basically a coil of wires behind your steering wheel in a plastic housing, that run the horn, airbag, and cruise buttons. If you search "clockspring" u should find some good info. Fyi u will need a steering wheel puller. Sent from my iPhone using AG Free  

Maybe that's whats wrong with my cruise control. When i turn to right it makes a clicking noise. How do you go about changing it? Pull the steering wheel off?  

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/showthread.php?t=280167 Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

Which way do i need to trouble shoot if the cruise light dont even come on?  

I changed clock spring and still no worky. My cruise light doesn't come on either. How many fuses are there for it?  

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• 2nd Gen - 2003 - 2006

Cruise Control Not Working

• Thread starter Drewker
• Start date Mar 6, 2018

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• Mar 6, 2018

BTW, the horn and radio work fine and the buttons though weathered, appear to be in good shape. They are not sticking or anything. The volume control buttons from the steering wheel do not work however.  

Full Access Members

Theirs a cruise control self diagnostic article online. You basically push the cruise on button along with turning key to on, cruise will go into self diagnostic mode through module. Go online you'll find it. Report your findings. http:// Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk  

Did you bother checking for power on both sides of the fuse or pulled it out and looked at it?  

John Christopher

Try spraying WD40 all around the controls. Put the nozzle in the gaps between the controls and spray. Work the control several times and spray again. This always works for me and is worth a try. Wrap a towel around the wheel to keep from getting it all over,  

If the above fails there are instructions about cleaning the controls on the forum. Good Luck. Let me know how you make out.  

Read the attached link http://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/steering-wheel-audio-cruise-button-fix.31073/  

• Press and release the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL (for Expedition), ON RESUME, COAST and CANCEL (for Navigator). The speed control indicator lamp will flash after each switch is pressed and released. Press and release each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
• NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and released and the lamp flashes. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) or CANCEL (for Navigator) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switches are defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
• Mar 7, 2018

Thanks for all the replies y'all - I will check into this and report back!  

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