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An Insider’s Guide to Sumba, the Quiet Alternative to Bali

By Toby Skinner

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On the western edge of the Savu Sea, a few islands east of Bali , there is a place where wild horses still roam on palm-fringed beaches and stretches of road see more buffalos than cars. An island of shadow-draped natural pools and mythical surf breaks, but also dry swathes of limestone hills that feel almost like African savannah. The most defining aspect of Sumba—around twice the size of Bali, but with barely a sixth of its population—is its Indigenous Marapu belief system, in which locals worship the spirits of their ancestors, whom they believe live all around them, though some are buried in imposing megalithic tombs. In kampung villages of thatched, pointy-roofed homes, betel-nut-chewing women spin some of Indonesia’s most elaborate ikat fabrics—geometric patterns of seashells and animals‚ on fabric hand-dyed with indigo leaves, root bark, and pounded turmeric.

The swimming pool at Nihi Sumba

Sumba's lush south coast

This is a near-pristine island of shamanic priests but no shopping malls—so far, it hasn’t experienced anything like the overdevelopment seen in Bali. Incoming hoteliers have tended to fuse hospitality with philanthropy: figures such as Claude Graves, who started the Sumba Foundation to support community projects at the same time as he built a resort beside the island’s most famous surf break in 1989. The hotel is now Nihi Sumba , and under the ownership of American financier Chris Burch and South African hotelier James McBride (formerly of The Carlyle in New York ). The big arrival later this year will be tropical-modern Cap Karoso on the island’s wild western edge. First-time hoteliers Fabrice and Eve Ivara will put an emphasis on food from a rotating roll call of chefs, with ingredients grown on the resort’s organic farm. 

Here, the Ivaras and others who have fallen for the island explain why this delicately poised place deserves only the gentlest, most sustainable steps. 

An insider take on Sumba

Dempta Bato

Bato has been working with NGOs on Sumba for two decades, especially in the fields of education and child protection. She is the manager of the Sumba Hospitality Foundation, which trains locals to work in world-leading hotels.

"I don’t think I realized how special our culture was until I went away to study. In Sumba, we believe that our ancestors live in the trees, the stones and the sea, and that we need to live in harmony with them. That’s why thatched bamboo houses have a third floor that’s reserved only for our ancestors, which most members of the household will never visit. The roofs are so tall because we believe that creates a stronger connection with the spirits.

A lot of our culture is built around rituals: long weddings and funerals, shamanic blessings, and festivals. The Pasola, the harvest festival, happens in February or March, when clan leaders will look at the moon and the arrival of sea worms on the beach to decide the exact time to start the celebrations. It involves members of clans fighting on horseback with sticks, and the police don’t get involved if someone gets hurt. It can be hard to see, but visitors are always welcome at these rituals, and in local villages.    

Behind it all is the island itself, which is like a beautiful god. I was lucky to get a good education elsewhere, and educating local people has become my passion, through social work and the Sumba Hospitality Foundation, where part of our mission is to encourage the kind of sustainable tourism that will protect the island. As much as I love to travel and learn, Sumba is home; my heart is in the land, with my ancestors."

Bali-born Oye is a former national-level windsurfer and kitesurfer, who heads up the watersports department at Nihi Sumba, which was the island’s first luxury resort when it opened in 2012.

"I grew up in Sanur, and I always say that Sumba reminds me of the Bali I knew when I was at elementary school: before the traffic and the plastic bottles. My first love was the sea, having learned spearfishing with my father when I was six, to sell our catch in the local markets. When I originally came to Sumba in 2017, it was the water I fell in love with first: so clear, with lots of fish and the kind of empty surf breaks you don’t get in Bali these days.

I’d first been invited by the sons of [Nihi Sumba co-owner] Chris Burch. I just remember surfing, spearfishing, and kitesurfing all day. Chris ended up inviting me to dinner, where he offered me a job as a waterman at the resort. Nihi is right in front of Occy’s Left [named after the Australian surfer Mark Occhilupo], one of the best barreling left-hand breaks on the island, and I’ll take guests out on the jet ski so they don’t even need to paddle out. We’ll go spearfishing on beautiful Konda Maloba beach, where we’ll slice sashimi from wahoo or Spanish mackerel, or grill dorado right on the white sand. We’ll kitesurf at Marosi, where the waves break a long way offshore, leaving this beautiful flat water around a little rocky island, surrounded by nothing but palm trees and sand. So many locals work at Nihi, and it’s a happy place to be. For me, it’s a job, but I’ve never felt closer to my passions. It’s like I’m a child again."

By Matt Ortile

By Todd Plummer

By Lauren Dana Ellman

By Melissa Kravitz Hoeffner

Inge de Lathauwer

Belgian-born de Lathauwer, a lifelong charity worker, started the Sumba Hospitality Foundation in 2016. Her sustainability-focused hotel school for young locals has a working eco-hotel, a restaurant, and an organic farm.

"When I first came to Sumba in 2013, people weren’t used to seeing tourists. They’d be intrigued, and sometimes look a bit angry—but when I smiled, I’d get a huge smile back. No one was coming, which is partly why it was so pristine and had managed to hold on to its animist culture. It seemed inevitable that this gorgeous place would get developed. I wanted to empower people, and worried about what development could look like—especially having seen what has happened to parts of Bali.

I’d originally come with the idea of building an eco-resort , but after spending more time here, I decided to start a hotel school, which would also showcase how sustainable development should look, from recycled water and solar panels to building with bamboo. It was hard, because people thought I had a hidden agenda, so it was really important when Dempta joined me: as a local, she knew how to get the tribe leaders, Marapu priests and prospective students on-board. More than 800 17- to 23-year-olds from underprivileged backgrounds now apply for 60 spaces. Most arrive speaking no English, and we have to teach them not just a language but a whole new way of thinking about themselves. Many have gone on to work at some of the world’s best hotel brands: not just Nihi on Sumba, but Belmond, The Ritz-Carlton, and Aman."

Fabrice and Eve Ivara

The French couple are behind Cap Karoso, an eco-focused resort and community which will open later this year.

"In Bali, we’d heard whispers about this place an hour’s flight east. When we arrived, we felt like we’d landed on a different planet. Bali was all traffic and car horns, but there was a total serenity to Sumba, where we barely saw another car. It felt like going back in time—to when travel really felt like travel. There was this emotional connection that compelled us to do something here—and a particular magic at Karoso, a six-mile beach backed by forest, with nothing around but tombs and the roofs of traditional houses poking through the trees.

Immersing ourselves in the local culture was an education. As part of the process, we had to get the blessing of village elders, which involved a lot of rituals and very sugary coffee. We had two blessing ceremonies on the land at Karoso, with shamans, dancers, and sacrifices. There were more than 600 people at the second one in 2019, and I remember watching this 90-something shaman in a deep trance and speaking his dialect, feeling the tears well up in my eyes. When I read out a short speech I’d learned in the local language, there was a round of applause after every phrase. There was a very emotional sense of being accepted into a special place.

Cap Karoso will be built around sustainability and community, with guest chefs using local ingredients—a big part of a living community. We don’t want it to feel like you’re cut off from the place, but immersed in it. Sumba is not frictionless like the Seychelles or the Maldives. It’s a journey to somewhere else entirely."

Planning your visit

Most visitors stay in the west of the island, where it’s a 90-minute drive along quiet, dusty roads from little Tambolaka Airport to resorts such as Nihi Sumba to the south and Cap Karoso to the west. There are magical beaches around here, from the limestone stacks of Bwanna in the south-west to the semi-lagoon of Mandorak in the far west and the Pero estuary, where the fishermen’s wooden outrigger canoes congregate in limpid waters. At the Weekuri Lagoon near Mandorak, locals rent rubber rings and float serenely as the Indian Ocean bursts through blowholes at one end. It’s worth exploring the drier east of the island, too, with its sandal trees and cashew plantations. Natural highlights on the way include the tiered Lapopu waterfall, the Waikelo Sawah falls and caves, and the Waimarang swimming hole, which recalls Mexican cenotes. Traditional kampung villages are dotted across the island, such as Ratenggaro in the west, where the thatched houses and megalithic tombs look over a beautiful estuary of white sand and calm turquoise water.

Where to stay

Nihi Sumba is still the island’s most famous stay—28 thatched villas among the frangipani trees, with infinity plunge pools and private butlers to organize sunset horse rides on the beach. 

Also on the south-west coast, Alamayah is a surf-facing boutique hotel with six suites, rooftop yoga, and a plant-based restaurant. 

Later in the year, Cap Karoso will launch with 47 clean-lined bedrooms and 20 villas, including beachfront homes with lagoon pools. 

Maringi Sumba

Closer to the airport and gorgeous Mananga Aba beach in the north, Maringi Sumba is the lush bamboo eco-resort of the Sumba Hospitality Foundation, with newly trained local staff, nine bedrooms and villas, and excellent Sumbanese food from the foundation’s permaculture farm.

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Sumba Authentic

Sumba Voyage started its activities in 2020. We are locals, well-established agency, based on the idea that tourism can combine amazing travel and run a direct and positive impact on the local communities visited.

A part of the profits is used for support the community and protect the environment.

Examples of tours in Sumba

Here are some example of tours in Sumba

West Sumba 4 days 3 nights

4 days 3 nights

West Sumba 5 days 4 nights

5 days 4 nights

West Sumba 6 days 5 nights

6 days 5 nights

West Sumba 7 days 6 nights

7 days 6 nights

West East Sumba 8 days 7 nights

8 days 7 nights

West East Sumba 9 days 8 nights

9 days 8 nights

West East Sumba 10 days 9 nights

10 days 9 nights

What makes us unique

Why choose a circuit with us

Responsible tour

We want your travel count for something, a part of the profits is used for support the community and protect the environment.

Experience local life

Taking you to communities of local people, trying local life activities, our trips have a focus on exploring and understanding our culture, traditions and ways of living.

We are local

We were born and raised in Sumba, it can offer the opportunity for you to have an unique and more authentic experience, with love from us.

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See our customer reviews

Discover the testimonials of those who have experienced exploring Sumba with us. The truth, only the truth! Our reviews are 100% real and unmodified.

I Highly Recommend choosing Sumba Voyages as your tour guide and driver while visiting Sumba Island! Imelda is the best! Every interaction with her from the point of requesting a proposal on, was warm and professional with a fast response time. Her connection to and love for Sumba is real and she shares it in creating thoughtful and real experiences with the local community on her tours. As an American, an added plus for me is that Imelda speaks very good English and this was a wonderful plus on the tour, so I could really learn about the local culture and see it in real time with authentic interaction. Imelda included an evening celebration dinner with her beautiful family and friendly locals that I will never forget- and it will remain a treasured travel memory for me for a lifetime! Five Big Stars for Sumba Voyages from this traveler !

I had an incredible experience on my recent trip to Sumba, in Indonesia with Sumba Voyage. From the moment we began planning our journey, Imelda, our guide, was an absolute delight. She helped us create a personalized itinerary and answered all of our questions with thoughtfulness and speed. We knew we were in good hands right from the start. Our driver, Lazarus, was not just a driver but a caring travel partner throughout our adventure. Lazarus ensured our safety on the road, and he genuinely focused on making sure we enjoyed every moment of our journey. He never rushed us. It was evident that he loves what he does, and it made our trip even more special. Imelda crafted an authentic experience for us, introducing us to her family, her native village, and friends from other villages. If you're seeking authenticity, Sumba Voyage is the perfect choice. My head is still in Sumba months later, and I can't stop thinking about the wonderful people I met and the breathtaking places I explored. I spent a week discovering the wonders of this island, and it was nothing short of amazing. Sumba Voyage made it all possible. I wholeheartedly recommend them to anyone looking for a unique and unforgettable journey. Thank you, Imelda, Lazarus, and the entire Sumba Voyage team, for creating such a memorable adventure. I can't wait to return to Sumba.

Bonjour a tous, Nous avons pass quelques jours avec Sumba voyages et plus particulièrement avec Imelda et son chauffeur et nous avons été conquis. Gentillesse, visite de villages et même dans sa famille. A l’écoute de nos envies.elle est adorable et compétente. Vous pouvez visiter Sumba avec elle les yeux fermés et faire le circuit que vous souhaitez. C’était un bonheur de faire ces visites avec elle. Recommandation ++++

We spent an unforgettable week on the island of Sumba. the Sumbanese people are very welcoming and kind. The island is protected from mass tourism! You will be able to have the honor of being part of the first "Boulet" in their territory and in their eyes. I will never forget our wonderful guide Joanna who was truly exceptional! And of course thank you to Imelda and Yoan for their welcome and the visit of their islands.Sampai bertemu.

Imelda is the best! If you go to Sumba you should not choose any other guide. She organized everything perfectly for us from the beginning and welcomed us warmly at the airport. She has perfectly implemented all our wishes and we could always decide what we want to do and how long. We got a great insight into the life on Sumba. Imelda knows people everywhere, which makes the trip even more special. The program was also not too full, so that there was always time to process the impressions and to recover and relax. I could not imagine exploring Sumba without Imelda and her driver David. If we come back again, we will definitely go through Sumba with Imelda again. We learned a lot about the people and life and it was not a tourist program at all where you felt it was rehearsed. The time will remain unforgotten! Thank you Imelda and Family!

Avons passé 9 jours gravés dans notre mémoire avec la superbe équipe de Sumba Voyage. Arrivés comme "clients" et repartis comme "amis". Nous avons beaucoup aimé être immergé dans la vie locale pour comprendre la culture, les croyances et coutumes ( INCROYABLES !!!), et le mode de vie. Nous avons fait le choix de séjourner chez Imelda. Nous recommandons vivement cette expérience (connait beaucoup de monde, ce qui permet des incursions dans le vrai quotidien local). Accueil chaleureux dans sa famille, chauffeurs prudents - bienveillants et attentifs, cuisine excellente le soir ( merci chef David). Séjour très varié : plages paradisiaques, couchers de soleil, cascades, villages traditionnel, trekking à la découverte de villages inconnus des touristes, plusieurs céremonies.... Le tout en toute simplicité et dans la bonne humeur. Hors des standards des tours operateurs. Inoubliable! Imelda, David, Lasarus, Apli, Yoan....vous restez dans nos coeurs!

SUMBA VOYAGE, C'est ne pouvoir retenir la larme qui perle à votre œil devant le Vrai et Véritable sourire d' Imelda qui vous accueille et se jette dans vos bras à votre arrivée. Née à Sumba, elle vous amènera au cœur même d'un village aux traditions préservées avec rites et coutumes transmis de génération en génération où l'emprise du temps et de l'essor mondial sont réduits à néant avec encore à ce jour la conservation et l'utilisation de mégalithes. SUMBA VOYAGE c'est aussi une équipe de chauffeurs guides locaux qui vous feront découvrir des paysages à couper le souffle, des plages paradisiaques avec des couchers de soleil extraordinaires et des coins de nature sauvage où seuls les bruits d'une cascade ou le cri d'un singe vous tiennent éveillés. SUMBA VOYAGE saura aussi modifier à l'infini votre devis, itinéraire, vos activités avec réactivité et adaptation permanente et pertinente pour une réussite parfaite de votre séjour. Confiez votre séjour à SUMBA VOYAGE,ouvrez les yeux, vivez pleinement ce rêve éveillé, émerveillez vous devant les rires des enfants de Sumba. Immense merci à Imelda et Yohann

We had an incredible experience with Imelda, David, and the entire Sumba Voyage team. If you're traveling to Sumba, don't hesitate to choose them for your tour. Their personalized and friendly approach ensures you'll see the island's best, tailored to your needs. Thanks to them, we discovered waterfalls, beaches, and immersed ourselves in the local culture in a way that wouldn't have been possible without their team. Thank you for this unforgettable experience!

Incredible experience! Better than we could have ever imagined. Sumba is a worth visiting island (better than any other), and doing it with Imelda and Lasarus was the best possible decision. Truly, this trip would not have been possible without them! Thanks for everything to all the team 😉

Best way to expirerende the real Sumba! Whatever you need or want to do Imelda will take care of you. An experience not to forget. They are also building two beautiful guesthouses. Opening soon 👍 We will be back, thank you!! 🙏🏻

We had a wonderful experience with Sumba voyage ! Imelda our local guide made our 10 days trip a unique experience. She always wanted to share her knowledge about her culture and brought us to the best places of the island. We were even able to participate in one ceremony which was incredible! We never had to take a guide during our travel, but here in Sumba there is a lack of informations for tourists and the roads are not always good. We have no regrets chosen Sumba voyage, they are really flexible if you want to make any changes in your itinerary and if you want to do special activities ! I definitely recommend it for people who want to really explore and understand their culture !

We engaged Sumba Voyage for our photo trip around Waingapu for three days, and everything was extraordinary, from communication to execution!  Imelad was very kind, and her communication was efficient and timely.  Nas (our driver) was very kind, knowledgeable about all the photographic locations, shown up promptly every time.  He also drives very safely! We highly recommend Sumba Voyage to everyone who visits Sumba.  Imelda and Nas, thank you for everything you have done for us!

Nous voulions lors de notre voyage en Indonésie découvrir l'île de Sumba qui est très peu touristique et nous avons donc fait appel à Sumba Voyage et c'était parfait ! On ne peut pas faire plus authentique, un grand merci à Imelda, aux chauffeurs et à Yoan pour leur accueil et pour ces moments. Les formules proposées sont très flexibles pour s'adapter à vos envies, on a choisi de visister l'île en 10 jours, nous avons passés 4 nuits dans la famille d'Imelda, on a eu la chance de pouvoir assister à une cérémonie dans un village locale, on aurait jamais pu y aller sans eux . C'est la meilleure façon de découvrir cette magnifique île, afin de comprendre et d'échanger avec les locaux sur leurs traditions

Nous recherchions une agence locale pour pouvoir traverser Sumba d'est en ouest et ainsi s'arrêter sur différents spots à visiter. Avec Sumba Voyage nous avons pu avoir un parcours sur mesure pour un prix tout à fait raisonnable et géré par une équipe à l'écoute et très professionnelle. Des moments inoubliables passés avec notre chauffeur Jack ainsi qu'Imelda et tout son staff.

Encore merci à Imelda de nous avoir fait découvrir son île superbe et des rencontres inoubliables avec ses habitants.

Cannot get more local than going with Sumba Voyage! It’s a bit last minute but it was the best decision. They could adapt to your needs and interests. The package looks basic but the people, the stories and know hows are not.

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Welcome To Sumba

With its rugged undulating savannahs and low limestone hills knitted together with fields of maize and cassava instead of rice, the island of Sumba in East Nusa Tenggara Province offers its own distinct splendours in the eastern part of the Indonesian Archipelago. Sprinkled throughout its countryside are hilltop villages with thatched traditional clan houses clustered around unique megalithic tombs where villagers still pay homage to their ancestors in the ancient belief of Marapu and have retained most of the indigenous culture and traditions for generations. The island is also known for the precious art of Tenun Ikat handwoven fabric, and the origin of the strong and agile Sumba Ponies or Sandalwood Horses.

• Make way to Kampung Ratenggaro
• Step into the magic of Bawana Beach
• Sooth in Waimarang Waterfall
• Discover the exotic mangrove of Walakiri
• River tubing at Tanggedu Waterfall
• Catch the sunset at Wairinding hill

Suggested Tour Packages

Sumba exploration tour 6d/5n, sumba exploration tour 5d/4n, sumba exploration tour 4d/3n, east sumba exploration tour 3d/2n, west sumba exploration tour 3d/2n, south west sumba day tour, frequently asked questions.

In general, there is no best time to visit Sumba. The climatic condition is generally either hot or wet. It really depends on the weather when you are there. 

Sumba is a very safe place. Here and there there can be petty crimes such as pick pocketing, so beware of your belongings. Single woman travelers have consistently rated Sumba as one of the safest cities to travel in, with very low crime rate against tourists.

It really depends on how much time you have got. The minimum recommended duration is 3 days while you can stay as long as 3 weeks to fully enjoy the city. Although Sumba does not seem to have a lot of things to do at first sight, one will have to dig deeper to know the must-dos. From nightly street food scenes to the hidden shopping alleys, and occasional visit to craft village. If you need some suggestion, contact us.

Sumba is famous for it’s precious art of Tenun Ikat handwoven fabric. You can also buy some Sumbanese style handcraft souvenirs back home.

Sumba weather often reaches a record low of 14 Celsius degree in late December or early January. Generally, it is about 15-25 degrees celsius.  If you plan to stay in the hill side or the mountain side, it will be colder. Most of our accommodation in our tour is in the city so that will be about 15-25 degrees. A jacket would suffice for this trip.

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©Konstantin Trubavin/Getty Image

There's something truly enchanting about Sumba. With its rugged, undulating savannah and low limestone hills growing maize and rice, it's nothing like Indonesia’s northern volcanic islands. Scattered throughout the countryside are hilltop villages with tall, symbolic grass roofs clustered around megalithic tombs, where nominally Protestant villagers still respect indigenous marapu (spiritual forces) with bloody sacrificial rites.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Weekuri Lagoon

Almost as far west as you can get on Sumba is one of the island's most magical spots, Weekuri Lagoon. On one side, locals and tourists rent black rubber…

Air Terjun Tanggedu

Northwest of Waingapu is arguably Sumba's best waterfall. Expect to spend two hours or more making the 60-or-so-km journey along roads that leave a lot to…

Lembaga Studi & Pelestarian Budaya Sumba

Just 3km west of town, this Catholic-run NGO is in a working coconut plantation and has an excellent cultural museum. It was developed by Fr Robert Ramone…

Air Terjun Waimarang

It's a smooth road to get to this stunning, Sumbanese waterfall, followed by around 8km of bumps before arriving at the carpark. Pay a nominal fee for…

Kampung Tarung

Tarung is home to five tribes, each with their own small, thatched shrine where only the local ratu (priest) is allowed to pray and commune with the…

Kampung Waigalli

Downhill from the riverside settlement of Taramanu, just after the sports field, you'll meet a good road that leads to a huddle of about 30 thatched, peak…

Kampung Praigoli

Best known for its nearly 200-year-old Watu Kajiwa, the deeply traditional, sprawling village of Praigoli is notched in the dusty, leafy hills above Sumba…

Pantai Watubela

You'll need your own wheels or a driver to access this slice of paradise, which is part of Patiala Bawa village, but the privacy and serenity is worth it…

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Oct 12, 2018 • 5 min read

Just a 50-minute flight from Bali’s sleek beach clubs, juice bars and yoga studios, Sumba provides a satisfying contrast. An island of raw, natural beauty…

Epic Travel Guide On How To Explore Sumba Island In Indonesia

Sumba is an island in Indonesia that you’ve most likely never heard of. It’s relatively undiscovered and certainly not geared for tourism.

There’s so much more to Sumba Island than what meets the eye.

The rugged coastline and exotic beaches. The unique traditions and rich history. The diverse cultures and isolated way of life.

I spent 2 weeks exploring Sumba, and whilst traveling to the island is not easy, it was an experience that will be hard to beat.

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About Sumba Island

Sumba is one of the five poorest islands in Indonesia . As a result, life for the Sumbanese people isn’t easy as the rural areas lack clean water, proper housing, and adequate healthcare and education.

A sad reality is that when children reach an age where they can assist with work at home, this becomes a priority, and their schooling comes second.

The Sumbanese live on their own crops and are unaffected by material wealth.

Sumba Island has recently become a hotspot for local tourists. Indonesians have begun to explore Sumba to escape the hordes of travelers who vacation at the more popular islands.

International tourists are following suit and discovering the breathtaking natural landscapes of Sumba that are unspoiled by development.

Where is Sumba Island?

Sumba Island is in the East Nusa Tenggara province of Indonesia. It’s south of Bali, and west of Flores Island.

How to get to Sumba Island?

Flights from bali to sumba.

Sumba is a big island, twice the size of Bali in fact. It has 2 airports, one on the west, Tambolaka Airport, and the other on the east, Waingapu Airport.

Make sure you know where you want to go before you book your flights to Sumba.

The distance from one side of the island to the other is over 7 hours drive, and the price for a taxi to get between the two is more expensive than the flight ticket itself.

Airlines flying into Sumba from Bali include Garuda Indonesia, Wings Air, and Nam Air. Garuda Indonesia has the best track record whilst Nam Air is the more budget-friendly option.

I flew both whilst in Indonesia and had no problems with either.

Ferry to Sumba

Sumba Island can also be accessed via a ferry from Aimere in Flores to Waingapu in East Sumba.

My advice is to fly to Sumba from Bali, travel overland, then catch a ferry from Sumba to Flores. Flores is an incredible island with the most amazing diving and volcano hiking.

The ferry from Waingapu in Sumba to Aimere in Flores departs every Tuesday and Friday at 10pm. The trip takes 6-9 hours, depending on the weather.

Make sure you book first class tickets, which only cost $3! The general area is festive but extremely full (and smoky) and you’ll struggle to find a seat. First class is far more comfortable, with cleanish toilets and you’ll have a place to sleep for the overnight journey.

Best time to visit Sumba Island

The best time to visit Sumba is during the dry season which runs from May to October.

You can also travel to Sumba during the rainy season from November to April but expect daily afternoon rain showers.

Where to explore on Sumba Island?

There are 2 distinct parts that make-up Sumba Island: The east and west of the island, each having its own airport.

After having traveled to both sides of Sumba, I’ve learned that they are vastly different.

The common denominator between east and west Sumba? There is very little tourist infrastructure in place.

Explore West Sumba

The west is arguably the more popular part of Sumba Island. More travelers choose to explore the beautiful Weekuri Lake, the gorgeous coastline and the abundance of traditional villages.

• Tambolaka: Tambolaka Airport is the gateway to west Sumba. There isn’t much to do in Tambolaka so don’t spend time here if you don’t have to.
• Waikabubak: To the east of Tambolaka lies Waikabubak. It’s one of the central hubs in Sumba, with a collection of communities nearby. If you’re backpacking through Sumba and want to visit traditional villages, Waikabubak is a good place to base yourself. There are a few accommodation and restaurant options here, and you can also find public buses that go from west to east Sumba.
• Nihi Sumba: There’s a high chance that you’re searching for what to do in Sumba because of the spectacular images you’ve seen of the famous Nihi Sumba hotel . This is also located in West Sumba.

Explore East Sumba

In contrast, the east isn’t as populated as the west. It’s dry and arid, and you can drive for miles without seeing anything. Seaweed farming is common in the southeast of the island and there are said to be crocodiles in these waters.

• Waingapu: Another hub on Sumba Island is Waingapu which lies towards the east of Sumba island and has its own airport.
• Pantai Kalala: Kalala lies along the coast of East Sumba. It’s completely unaffected by tourism and as remote as you’ll get.

7 Things to do in Sumba Island, Indonesia

Visit traditional villages in sumba.

Sumba Island has strong, preserved traditions and you can experience these by visiting a traditional village. Also unique to Sumba are the houses with tall pointed roofs made of dry grass.

There is no entrance fee to enter these traditional villages, but tips are appreciated.

Below are some of the popular traditional villages in Sumba:

• Rende Village is in East Sumba has huge megalithic tombs in the center of the village. It’s close to Wai Marang waterfall so you can visit both on a day trip from Waingapu.
• Praijing is another traditional village located close to Wakiabubak, West Sumba.
• Ratenggaro is one of the most beautiful and most visited villages on the west side of Sumba Island. It’s situated on a cliff, next to a deserted beach.
• Unfortunately, Tarung, which is an iconic village in Sumba, burnt down in 2017 and I cannot confirm whether it’s been reconstructed yet.

Explore the picturesque Weekuri Lake

This iconic lake in West Sumba is one of the main attractions on the island. It’s 45 minutes from Tambolaka airport and chances are you’ll have the beautiful Weekuri Lake all to yourself.

Catch some waves

We traveled to Sumba to check what all the hype was about from the surfing community. In summary, the waves at Sumba Island are better suited to experienced surfers.

I dedicated an entire blog post to my experience of surfing in Sumba (for beginners and experienced surfers).

Visit Sumba waterfalls

Air terjun wai marang.

This gorgeous waterfall is on the east of Sumba Island, near Rende Village. The road leading to the entrance is a rough one and I’m surprised our car made it through the muddy terrain.

To access Wai Marang Waterfall, you’ll walk 10 minutes through open plains, before reaching a forest. This is where you’ll have to climb down to the foot of the waterfall.

After seeing images of the other waterfalls in Sumba, I must argue that Wai Marang Waterfall is the best!

Expect to pay 100 000 IDR ($7) for a guide and 20 000 ($1) for parking.

La Popu Waterfall

La Popu Waterfall is located on the west of Sumba Island, in the Wanokaka area. It’s one of the most popular waterfalls in Sumba and entrance (including a guide) is approximately IDR 200 000 ($14).

I was on the fence about visiting La Popu Waterfall. After discussing it with other people and getting feedback that it isn’t all it’s made out to be, I decided to spend my day on the beach instead.

There was recently a landslide at La Popu Waterfall so check with the locals before you head out to see it.

Explore the best beaches in Sumba

Sumba has got to have the best beaches I’ve seen. Ever.

Why? Well besides the blue water, the beaches in Sumba are completely deserted.

There are no buildings, no cafes, no people. No vendors selling water, nor snacks. Empty.

Compared to the southeast of Sumba, the beaches on the southwest are more pristine, the water is crystal clear and the sand is super soft and white.

In contrast, the beaches on the southeast are rougher, and not as great. If you’re traveling to Sumba for the beaches, check out the first four that I’ve listed below:

• Pantai Marosi: A long white sandy beach, great for surfing, swimming and relaxing.
• Unknown: This was one of my favorite beaches in Sumba! Located near Pantai Marosi lies a small secluded beach. To access it, you need to go through a cave and crawl through a small hole. This adventure was one of my favorites in Sumba, so if you’re around Pantai Marosi, ask the locals for directions.
• Pantai Kerewei: Not as great as Marosi Beach, but if you’re in the area it’s worth a visit.
• Tarimbang Beach: Beautiful, clean beach with great waves.
• Pantai Watuparunu and Kalala Beach: Located in the southeast of Sumba, these beaches weren’t my favorite when compared to those on the west of the island.

Experience a Sumba traditional festival or the Pasola Festival

One of the best-known festivals on Sumba Island is the Pasola Festival.

This takes place every year, sometime between the months of February and March. Here, men ride bareback on horses and a bloody spear war ensues.

Back in the day, people were killed during the Pasol festival! Supposedly, the more blood that is shed on the fields, the better, as the outcome is a greater harvest. The spear tips and metal blades have since been replaced with blunt, wooden tips and so fatalities aren’t as common as before.

Despite the huge attraction and the tradition behind the Pasola Festival, watching people throw spears at each other is not something I would want to witness.

But one must respect the culture and traditions of other countries, and the Pasola Festival is one of those.

Horseback festival

Despite having missed the Pasola Festival, I was lucky enough to witness a horse-riding festival that took place at a nearby village in West Sumba.

Again, it’s remarkable to see how different life on Sumba Island is compared to visiting Bali . And how these horse races probably resemble how horse racing was done hundreds of years ago.

Be sure to ask the locals about these festivals so that you don’t miss them.

Wairinding hills

Located alongside the road between Waikabubak on the west and Waingapu on the east, lies Wairinding Hills.

It’s a popular place to have a break when traveling between the two cities and the beautiful views don’t hurt.

How to explore Sumba Island? With a tour group or travel independently

Sumba island tour groups.

Transportation options in Sumba are limited as the island isn’t geared for tourism. As a result, most visitors book a tour through an agency.

For these tours, all your travel is pre-booked. You’ll stay in the central hubs and take day trips to the attractions in Sumba. This is by far the easiest and most convenient way to travel to Sumba and you should give yourselves 3 to 6 days to explore the island.

Alternatively, you can hire a car and a driver to take you to the attractions which will allow more freedom to explore on your own terms. Expect to pay $75-$90 for a full-day car rental including a driver and petrol.

READ MORE: 30+ FAMOUS INDONESIA LANDMARKS

Explore Sumba independently

I’m not a huge fan of tour groups and fixed schedules. I like to travel on my own terms and explore a country as the locals do, using public transport.

After traveling through Indonesia and other countries in Asia, I was hoping for the same in Sumba.

Unfortunately, not!

If you’re traveling between the main cities of Tambolaka, Waikabubak, and Waingapu, you’ll be able to travel relatively easily using public transport – but check the bus schedules first as they don’t run frequently.

Whilst inland travel is relatively easy, getting to the coastal areas, and the countryside is more challenging. I don’t even know if there is public transport that reaches these areas!

If there is, expect it to be extremely slow. A drive that took me 3 hours by private van, took other travelers over 6 hours by public bus.

If you’re wanting to do an overland trip using public transport, rather head to Flores which is an island next to Sumba. I spent 2 weeks here and it’s my favorite Indonesian island to explore!

Motorbikes in Sumba, Indonesia

Perhaps you had ideas to travel Sumba by bike, as is possible on most Indonesian islands. But who would’ve thought that renting a motorbike in Sumba would be so difficult!

Because Sumba is a very poor island, not many people own motorbikes. Unlike in Bali, there are no bike shops on the side of the roads and renting one can be challenging.

In the cities, you’ll be able to find a bike to rent for a few days, but I would recommend that you prearrange this or else you could spend hours trying to locate one.

Toward the coast, it’s practically impossible unless you have pre-booked with your homestay.

Condition of the motorbikes

Also, don’t expect these bikes to be in the best condition. The motorbikes on Sumba are old and not serviced regularly.

To make matters worse, the roads in the rural areas are in a terrible state and you’ll find yourself driving through fields and on uneven gravel roads. Our bike broke down numerous times during the few days we had it.

This is also why I don’t suggest that you explore Sumba on a bike as there is a strong chance that it will break down, leaving you in the middle of nowhere, with no help. There’s no electricity in the rural areas, the roads are pitch dark after sunset and you don’t want to be stuck out there alone.

I paid IDR 150 000 ($10) per day for bike rental in Sumba from my homestay.

READ MORE: COMPREHENSIVE BALI PACKING LIST

Sumba accommodation

Accommodation in Sumba is mostly limited to towns where prices are slightly higher than you would find elsewhere in Indonesia.

If you’re traveling to the coast, you may have to dig a bit deeper into your pockets. Here you can expect to find a homestay that will include all meals as there are no restaurants nearby.

Nihiwatu Sumba

Nihiwatu is an uber luxurious, secluded resort situated in southwest Sumba. It attracts the rich and famous, and the resort even “owns” the wave in front of the property.

A night at Nihiwatu will cost anything from $1 000 to $10 000 per villa per night. Check prices here!

Whilst Nihiwatu Sumba is unaffordable for most people, the resort has a huge impact on the community. The Sumba foundation was started by Nihiwatu in 2001.

This foundation aims to provide humanitarian aid to the local communities through village-based projects. Through the Sumba Foundation, Nihiwatu educates the youth, provides healthcare to communities, and ensures that the Sumbanese values and traditions are preserved.

This is a great initiative and after you’ve traveled to Sumba, you’ll realize how much the island needs all the support it can get.

Is Sumba expensive?

If you plan to travel to Sumba and want to experience all the things to do on the island, make sure you have enough cash saved up.

This is especially true for backpackers who are used to convenient public transportation, and affordable food and accommodation options.

I noticed a considerable increase in prices when compared to the rest of Indonesia. Most goods need to be imported from other islands and travel time between locations also needs to be factored in as everything is so spread out.

This can also be attributed to the fact that I chose to stay in small villages near the beach, and not in the big towns. Competition is limited here, and resources are scarce, so the costs are higher.

What to pack for your Sumba trip

Sumba is a remote island, as remote as you’ll get. Convenient stores and pharmacies are hard to come by and it’s important to arrive prepared.

• Mosquito spray: There is the risk of Malaria on Sumba Island. Whilst I didn’t take any malaria medication, I used mosquito spray every day.
• Sun protection
• Flashlight: Electricity is limited on Sumba Island and after 6 pm you might not have access to power.
• Alcohol: There is no hard liquor in Sumba so if you feel like a Gin and Tonic after a long day in the sun, bring your own booze. Beers are available and if you’re lucky, they might be served chilled (But they probably won’t!)
• Activities: You explore Sumba to get away from the hustle and bustle, but make sure you bring some games to keep you entertained such as cards, bat and ball and a frisbee. Also, pack in a few books and if you’re traveling with your laptop, download some movies before you arrive in Sumba.
• First aid kit: Bring plasters (Band-aid), headache tablets, scissors, and antiseptic lotion. Make sure you pack these as you won’t find them unless you stay in the bigger cities on Sumba Island.
• Cash: There are ATM’s in the cities but rather be safe and bring cash with you. BNI Bank and Mandiri are the most reliable.
• Sim card and data: I advise using Telkomsel as they have the best reception on the island.

You can find my comprehensive Indonesia packing list here which includes all of the above and so much more!

Things to know before you explore Sumba Island

• English is not commonly spoken on Sumba Island and the villages have their own language.
• Chewing betel nut is a cultural and social tradition in Sumba and the effects include a boost of energy and feelings of euphoria. You’ll notice the local’s mouths are stained red and this is a result of chewing the fruit.
• Whilst there is cell phone connection on Sumba, most places don’t have wi-fi so make sure you arrange a sim and data before your arrival. Reception isn’t great in the rural areas so be prepared for no connectivity at times.
• It’s common for men and boys on the west of the island to wear a sarong around their hips with a machete placed in it. So, don’t be surprised when you have kids with machetes running after you as this is yet another Sumba tradition.
• Sumba is known for its famous ikat textiles which are extremely detailed and made from natural dyes. These garments are worn daily and are exchanged during traditional ceremonies.
• The Sumbanese people and those who follow the Marapu belief have an animalistic outlook to life. With death, comes a new life in the world of spirits, and eternal life after death. They believe that death is a blessing which shouldn’t be a time for mourning, but rather celebration. The family spends a small fortune on the burial of the deceased, which often leaves them broke thereafter. Sometimes it takes years before they can afford to pay for the funeral. They will then keep the deceased body on the top floor of their house until such a time that they can have a proper ceremony. During the burial, buffalo, cattle, pigs and other animals are sacrificed. These graves are easily identified by the megalithic tombs which are commonly found all over Sumba.

Is Sumba Safe

Sumba is safe, but we were warned not to leave anything out in the open.

There have been reports of valuables being stolen from motorbikes whilst tourists are out exploring. It’s also advised that you don’t travel after dark.

Personally, I never felt unsafe during my time in Sumba or any other island in Indonesia.

What is Sumba known for

Sumba Island is known for it’s surfing and stunning landscapes. It has recently been put on the map as a travel destination thanks to the gorgeous Nihi Resort.

Is it worth including Sumba in your Indonesia itinerary

Yes and no.

I spent 2 months backpacking Indonesia and loved the uniqueness of Sumba as I’d never explored an island as remote and secluded as this. It was an eye-opener and allowed me to reflect on what’s really important in life.

For 2 weeks in Sumba, I had cold showers, bucket toilets and had little access to electricity and internet. I never wore makeup, my hair was always a mess and I practically switched between my cozzie and the same sarong daily.

I saw what the local people had and how their lives were filled with joy and happiness despite their circumstances. It’s not every day that you get to experience this.

But, if you’re traveling with a limited budget, and want to backpack through Sumba, it may be better to travel to islands where transport and other amenities are easily accessible, such as Lombok or Java .

Yes, you can stay in the central hubs in Sumba which will be cheaper, but exploring the remote coastline and spending every day on the beach made my Sumba trip a highlight of my time in Indonesia.

Looking for more Indonesia travel information? Check out my other posts!

• Living in Bali: 24+ Pros and Cons of Island Life
• 7 Incredible Bali Hidden Gems
• Exploring 17 Islands Marine Park in Riung, Flores
• The Perfect 3-Day Ubud Itinerary
• Should You Visit Kelimutu National Park?

There is a really good chance that this post contains affiliate links. If you click one of them, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. As always, views are my own!

Hi, I'm Carryn. I’m an adventure travel blogger trying to figure out my way through life by traveling and exploring. Join me as I share my travel guides and tips for life abroad. Find out more about me here .

Sumba Surf: All You Need To Know About Surfing In Sumba

A day at bears town ski resort in korea (베어스타운 스키 리조트), 8 thoughts on “epic travel guide on how to explore sumba island in indonesia”.

can you tell us where you stayed… everyone recommends Nihi, giving firsthand info on where people are actually staying and how often you needed to move vs. could do day trips would be amazing!! thank you 🙂

Hi Renee, I stayed at Sumba Sunset Surf Camp on the west of the island, and Sumba Adventure Resort on the east. I spent 6 days at each. They are surf camps, but I don’t surf and I loved the vibe here! Sumba Sunset was my favorite! Both are close to the beach and offer all-inclusive packages(except alcohol). In this post , I detail everything about the places I stayed and what I loved, so check it out. I did excursions when I was going to and from the two sides of the island, and also rented a motorbike (which I only recommend if you’re familiar with riding one and go in groups because mine broke down numerous times!) But I mainly wanted to explore the beaches and relax, so I only did 2 days of excursions (both accommodations offer these and have drivers who can take you around) Hope that helps!

This is SUCH a helpful blog. Thanks girl!

Hi can you bike ride around , is the ferry regular , is there basically no accomodation other than in the cities , are there any eateries at all and finally is there fruit available . I’m riding from Maumere to Labuan Bajo in April maybe I should go to Sumba and then back to Ende and continue your thoughts would be good cheers Damian

Yes, the ferry’s run twice a week from Aimere in Flores to Waingapu in Sumba – you’ll need to confirm which days. It’s a long ferry (6-8 hours) but an exciting adventure as there are no tourists!

You can bike around Sumba Island. But if you’re renting a bike on the island, it most likely won’t be in great condition (if you can find one). If you’re renting from Flores, you’ll also need to confirm that you can take the bike to Sumba. The distances between towns in Sumba are far so ensure you always have enough fuel. Keep in mind that most people won’t speak English so that will also make it more difficult if you run into any issues with your bike.

I found that accommodation for tourists is limited to cities and I didn’t see any signs for local homestays between the cities. This is because there aren’t many tourists who visit Sumba so accommodation is generally in popular beach/surf areas and cities. The locals are extremely friendly and if you can’t find a place to stay, they will help you. But that’s if you can communicate with them. Same goes for food and restaurants. There are local food vendors and restaurants in the cities, but that’s about it. You can find fruit but it’s not like the rest of Indo where fruit is sold at every street corner.

There are many things to consider if you want to do this trip: – How much time do you have? I recommend no less than 6 full days if you’re taking the ferry. This will give you enough time to enjoy the journey as there are a lot of places to explore – and no doubt you’ll need a bit of extra time for any travel delays if you’re just “winging” it. – Will this time eat into your time on Flores? I absolutely loved Flores (Bajawa, Riung, Moni) so try keep at least 7 days for this island as well. – Are you up for an adventure that’s not necessary “comfortable” travel? If you’re used to roughing it, traveling independently, going off the beaten track, speaking to locals then you’ll love Sumba. Depending where you go on Sumba, you might also go a few days without speaking to tourists (very different from Labuan Bajo which is super touristy)!

I loved Sumba because it was so unique and not like any other part of Indo. But I didn’t travel as independently as I normally do (I had prebooked accommodation and transport). In Flores I only used public transport and bike which is my preferred way of travel. I also found Sumba to be super expensive. So if you stay in “tourist” accommodation that provides your meals and accommodation, it will be a lot more expensive that anywhere else in Indonesia.

Hope that helps with your decision!

Thank you for all the useful Information! Very helpful 🙂 I am flying to Tambolaka

sorry got cut off… I am gonna bring my laptop and wonder how safe it will be. Do you have any experience with this?

Thanks, Helena

Hey Helena,

I also traveled with my laptop and had no issues – but I was cautious and didn’t leave it out in the open when I wasn’t around. I kept it on me in my small day pack when I was traveling and locked it in my bigger travel backpack when I was out and about exploring.

Enjoy Sumba!

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Sumba is the Island forgotten in history, an impressive island quite close to Bali (just 1 hour by plane) that keeps customs and land out of modern and tourist advancement. You will find idyllic beaches without tourists, impressive waterfalls and villages that have remained the same in the last 100 years. Without a doubt it is the place to visit if you want to get out of the common tourist routes.

Check out our complete guide to Sumba Island with everything you need to know before choosing your perfect adventure: Discover SUMBA ISLAND & its incredible PASOLA FESTIVAL

Southwest Sumba: Most Photogenic Villages & Beaches (3D/2N)

Salt water lake of Weekuri Sunset at Lendongara Hill Sumbanese cultural museum Cliff-side beach of Bwanna Views of Tanjung Mareha

East Sumba: Savanna, Waterfall & Villages (3D/2N)

Sunset at Walakiri Beach Puru Kambera Savanna Traditional villages Tanggedu Waterfall Sunrise at Tenau Hill

Sumba Luxury with Nihi Sumba (6D/5N)

Traditional villages Hidden Waterfalls Untouchable nature Unforgettable sunsets Marapu megalithic tombs

Sumba Birding Adventure (5D/4N)

Endemic bird species Night birding experience Professional birding guide Accommodation and full board meals Roundtrip airport transport

West Sumba: Cliff-side Beach, Amazing Sunsets & Ancient Villages (4D/3N)

An Introduction to Sumba Traditional Textiles (5D/4N)

Off the beaten track Traditional textil workshop Ancient cultural practices Waterfall & Beaches Marapu megalithic tombs

Sumba Photography Tour (5D/4N)

Sunset moment at Mandorak Beach Photogenic village of Praijing Magnificent Waikelo Harbor Amazing sunrise at Watuparunu Beach Dancing trees at Walakiri Beach

Short Adventure from East to West of Sumba (5D/4N)

Hidden Waimarang waterfall Sunset at Walakiri Beach Friendly locals Cliff-side beach of Bwanna Visit to traditional villages

A Week of Adventure into the Best of Sumba (7D/6N)

Beautiful beaches Visit to local school Stay overnight with the locals Magnificent hills & waterfalls Sunrise and sunset views

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The Ultimate Guide to Sumba, Indonesia

A travel guide to Sumba, Indonesia , including where to stay and what to do on your next trip.

Sumba is known as the “Forgotten Island” of Indonesia. A well-kept secret amongst surfers and adventurers, this hidden gem is, surprisingly, only an hour’s flight away from the major tourist hub of Bali . Yet it has thus far remained largely untouched by the crush of Eat-Pray-Lovers that inundate its better-known neighbor.

But Sumba may not be off the beaten path for much longer. Thanks to the presence of a small handful of pioneering hoteliers and social activists that care about the island, the travel industry is starting to grow. The positive impact of that development is that it’s bringing more wealth to a very poor and underserved population. The risk is that the rich and authentic Sumbanese culture might suffer under the pressures of tourism. Thankfully, it is possible to visit this up-and-comer with mindfulness and respect towards the local way of life .

Whether you are looking for a weekend getaway during your Bali visit, stopping by for a few days on your way to Raja Ampat, or exploring something new for a few weeks, the remote and wild island of Sumba has so much to offer. Here, we outline the best ways to experience Sumba, including where to stay, how to discover the local customs, and ways to explore the outdoors—surfing included, of course.

Where to Stay

Sumba is a destination for the relatively adventurous traveler; it doesn’t have the bars, restaurants, shops, and café culture of a place like Bali. Because tourism is still budding on the island, choosing where to stay is important since your hotel will provide a lot of the dining, services, and activities infrastructure that you’ll need to enjoy your visit. Unless you are a true backpacker looking to homestay hop (always an option), opt for one of these all-inclusive hotels.

For those seeking an elevated, barefoot luxury stay, head to Nihi Sumba—the island’s OG hospitality experience. A local institution with a cult-like following, the hotel, formerly known as Nihiwatu, is what first put Sumba on the map for well-heeled travelers from around the globe. Founded over three decades ago, Nihi is best known for its perfect surfing and its positive impact on the Sumbanese community through its charitable entity, The Sumba Foundation  (more on both of these below). The sprawling resort has 28 pristine ocean-facing villas, discreetly nestled against a jungle backdrop. It’s an ideal place to commune with the elements, to indulge in wellness and five-star cuisine, and to connect with like-minded guests. They also have a stable of 17 Sumbanese horses that take daily walks along the beach—it’s surreal! 

For the conscious traveler seeking a restorative retreat in nature, book your stay at the Alamayah. A newcomer to the island, this boutique resort has six impeccable suites that blend modernity with traditional Sumbanese design. Situated on Kerewei Beach—a great location for surfing and other water sports—the Alamayah focuses on wellness, healing, and connection with the local culture. Amenities include an Ayurvedic spa, a plant-based kitchen with a menu designed by a holistic chef and herbalist, and clean beauty products in every room. Perfect for mindful travelers who want a uniquely zen experience of the island. 

Sumba Hospitality Foundation

Support the growth of the Sumbanese community while you enjoy your visit to the “Forgotten Island.” Created by longtime Nihi Sumba guests that fell in love with the island and wanted to help the locals flourish and find better work opportunities, the Sumba Hospitality Foundation is both a school and a hotel. They educate Sumbanese students to succeed in the tourism industry and assist them with job placement throughout Indonesia upon graduation. Guests can stay at their environmentally-friendly Maringi Eco Resort & Spa , where students create a memorable experience and learn while they are at it. Staying here is a wonderful way to give back.

The only guide to Bali you’ll ever need →

Get to Know Sumba’s People and Culture

Sumba’s ancient indigenous culture is largely intact to this day. They practice an animistic faith called Marapu, centered on honoring ancestral lineage. Because the Indonesian government requires every province to ascribe to one of five “official” religions (Islam, Christianity, Hinduism, Buddhism, and Confucianism), Marapu has blended with Christianity. Even so, Sumba is a place where visitors can experience many ancient traditions firsthand.  

Experience Pasola

Plan your trip in February or March to witness the ancient and sacred tradition of Pasola. The Western Sumbanese perform this sporting ritual every year to ensure an abundant rice harvest. It highlights the locals’ connection to nature and the spirit world. Festivities begin on the night of the Worm Moon, usually the first full moon in the month of March. On this night, nyale (a variety of sea worm) emerges from the ocean in droves, signaling the end of the wet season and the beginning of the fertile season. Locals collect the sea worms for cooking (they are considered a delicacy), and a Marapu priest presides over an animal sacrifice, determining whether the Pasola will take place on that day. The word Pasola means “spear,” and the games do indeed involve spears—though these days they are blunt and made of wood. Participants ride on horseback and attempt to unseat one another. The games are over only when the Marapu priest says the spirits are content.

Visit local villages

To truly understand what makes Sumba special, plan a visit to a local village, like Lamboya or Wanokaka. Make sure to come with a local guide so that you can properly pay your respects to village chiefs and enter safely. If you have a strong stomach, some hotels can help you plan a visit to a village when a funeral or wedding is underway. Be aware that these ancient rituals often involve animal sacrifice, which provides food for the entire village and social standing for the hosting family. For a lighter visit, come for the weekly markets. Farmers and craftsmen sell fresh fruit and vegetables, chicken eggs, betel nuts, jewelry, woven baskets, traditional ikat  (a style of Indonesian decorative fabric), and mamole —a traditional totem that honors fertility and feminine energy. 

A side note for textile lovers: if ikat  is really what you are after, ask your hotel to arrange an expedition to East Sumba. There’s very little tourism there, but it’s where artists weave the world’s most beautiful ikat .

The Sumba Foundation

The Sumba Foundation began when Petra and Claude Graves created Nihiwatu (now called Nihi Sumba) and learned first hand what it was like to live like a local. When they arrived, they encountered poor access to water, no healthcare facilities, widespread malaria and malnutrition, and minimal education. The efforts of the Sumba Foundation have improved the lives of tens of thousands of people through providing water, health, education, food, and economic initiatives. Contact them to request a tour of their impressive facilities or to participate in a soup kitchen at one of the schools—and, if you cannot make it to Sumba yet but are still interested in supporting their work, consider making a donation .

The day trip: From Ubud, Bali to the Jatiluwih Rice Terrace →

Where to See Nature in Sumba

Sumba’s main attraction is Mother Nature herself. Because the island is so remote and untouched, the jungle and the surrounding ocean thrive. As a destination, Sumba has something for every kind of nature lover. Whether you worship the sun, live for the water, or love to hike, there are endless opportunities here to connect to the earth and its elements. 

Take in Sumba’s natural landscape

For those who love a good trek in the wild, plan a hike to the Matayangu Waterfall, also known as the Blue Waterfall. The journey begins with an hour and a half hike through the jungle—keep your eyes open for monkeys and snakes—and ends in an idyllic valley, with the gushing waterfall as its centerpiece. If you prefer a shorter trek, check out the Lapopu Waterfall or Lamboya Rice Fields instead. As always, we suggest the company of a local guide to show you the way. 

Enjoy Sumba’s otherwordly surfing

Sumba is best known for surfing, thanks to Occy’s Left (also known as God’s Left), the iconic wave at Nihi Sumba. Surfers flock from far and wide and fork over the hefty price tag to stay at Nihi and ride its perfect swell. Only ten surfers are allowed per day, which makes for a truly luxurious surfing experience—a world apart from the crowds competing for waves in Bali. If you’re not staying at Nihi, not to worry: the island is full of incredible beaches. Pantai Marosi and Kerewei also boast amazing waves. If surfing is not your thing, grab a snorkel or a paddleboard to explore the ocean blue. Or roll out a towel on the white sand, and simply lay back and enjoy the peace and privacy of this beautiful paradise island. 

SUMBA: the newly discovered Gem in East Nusa Tenggara

With its rugged undulating savannahs and low limestone hills knitted together with fields of maize and cassava instead of rice, the island of Sumb a in East Nusa Tenggara Province offers its own distinct splendors in the eastern part of the Indonesian Archipelago. Sprinkled throughout its countryside are hilltop villages with thatched traditional clan houses clustered around unique megalithic tombs where villagers still pay homage to their ancestors in the ancient belief of Marapu and have retained most of the indigenous culture and traditions for generations. The island is also known for the precious art of Tenun Ikat handwoven fabric, and the origin of the strong and agile Sumba Ponies or Sandalwood Horses

Located between the islands of Komodo and Sumbawa, and directly facing the Indian Ocean the island is also a surfers' paradise. The large rolling Sumba barrels usually appear between May through October when waves can be either very high and strong or very flat as breaks are directly exposed to wide open ocean swells. This kind of powerful surf, however, though very challenging, should only be ventured by professionals. Nonetheless, throughout the year, swells rise from 3 to 6 feet.

Although the island may still be off the grid from the general tourist map, surprisingly Sumba has a number of luxurious, well frequented resorts. The Nihiwatu Resort , for example, describing itself as "the ultimate in privacy, exclusivity, views and romance", has been recognized as 2nd best hotel worldwide by Tripadvisor. There is also the Sumba Nautil Resort in the south western part of Sumba, which is a favorite among surfers. For those who seek peace and serenity and the chance to watch dolphins playing in the open sea as you sip your morning coffee, the Mario Hotel and Café is the place to be.

For a truly special experience of not only staying in a hotel but also interact further with the local people and help develop the island's tourism that is beneficial to the local community, the Sumba Hospitality Foundation welcomes visitors to stay at their on-campus hotel school simply known as The Sumba Hotel School. It includes five beautiful, bamboo guest pavilions tended to by students. Powered entirely by solar energy, the school aims to set itself as an example for sustainable tourism on the island and beyond. During their stay, visitors are encouraged to interact with the students to learn more about Sumba, or share any experiences that will be of value to the students. All proceeds help fund the school's programs.

The western part of Sumba has plenty to offer tourists who dare to venture into off-the-beaten- track destinations. Here can be seen traditional villages, stone megalithic tombs even around West Sumba's capital of Waikabubak , and watch unique rituals and traditions following the ancient Marapu belief. Once a year the exciting Pasola jousting festival, the culmination of a series of fertility ceremonies are held on separate days at different locations on the island. On that occasion, hundreds of warriors on horseback charge into each other riding bareback, hurling spears. This festival, usually held between February and March, is believed to bring fertility to the land.

Waingapu on the northern eastern coast of Sumba is the largest town on the island and its seaport. Around two kilometers from Waingapu is the traditional village of Prailiu , and some 10 km. away is the village of Kwangu , while 6 km from the city is the village of Labanapu , all three are famous for their exquisite ikat weaving . Women of Sumba produce some exemplary hand woven cloth with motifs of stylized horses, animals and people, in dark blue, red and black, white and yellow natural dyes. Here visitors can watch the entire intricate and tedious process of ikat weaving. For a very special memento, do look for the unique cloths with sewn in seashells.

Video by nathwild

To Get There:

Sumba is connected by air via the Tambolaka Airport in Southwest Sumba Regency and Umbu Mehang Kunda airport in Waingapu Town, East Sumba Regency. Most flights to the island depart from Bali, so if you are in another city make sure to get to Bali first or get a connecting flight. Garuda Indonesia, Wings Air, and Nam Air serve daily flights between Bali and Tambolaka. Wings Air also serves daily flights between Bali and Waingapu, while NAM Air serves the flights of Bali-Waingapu 3 times a week. There are also flights from Kupang and Ende in Flores to Waingapu served by Garuda Indonesia, Wings Air and NAM Air.

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Home » Travel Guides » Indonesia » 15 Best Places to Visit in Sumba (Indonesia)

15 Best Places to Visit in Sumba (Indonesia)

Sumba Island lies to the east of Bali but strangely enough most visitors don’t take the time to visit. Those who do make the trip here are usually surfers, as Sumba has a surprising surf scene that many people don’t even realize exists. Coupled with its pounding waves, Sumba also serves up some gorgeous azure waters and white sands, and the most amazing things about the beaches here is that you will probably be left to enjoy them on your own.

As if that wasn’t a good enough reason to visit Sumba, you can also take the opportunity to learn more about the local culture which allows you a fascinating look at structure like megalithic tombs that house the remains of members of the royal family. The traditions and even the houses are different from much of the rest of Indonesia and if you are interested in seeing a different side of this massive archipelago then this is one spot not to miss off the itinerary.

Other attractions in Sumba are usually of the natural variety, and you can expect pretty hillsides, limpid lakes, and some impressive waterfalls particularly inside the newly created national parks that sit on the island. Certainly if you are a nature lover then Sumba has a huge amount to offer, and it is easily reached by taking a boat or plane across from Bali or any of the neighboring islands like Lombok.

Here are the 15 best places to visit in Sumba …

1. Weekuri Lake

Weekuri Lake is located just 45 minutes away from Tamolaka Airport in Southwest Sumba meaning that this is one of the easiest places to visit if you are only in town for a short time.

The lake is actually a saltwater lagoon that is filled with water from the neighboring sea and it sparkles with an amazing emerald hue under the sun.

If you want to go swimming in the lake then you may be disappointed as the water is not very deep but you can paddle around providing you watch out for the pretty coral that grows here.

If possible try to come here at sunset and take in this amazing natural phenomenon with the glow of the sun on the water.

2. Waingapu

Waingapu is the largest town in Sumba but don’t expect it to be anything like a city set-up.

More of a sleepy enclave than anything else Waingapu has a wealth of delights such as its classic Night Market which runs along the old wharf and is one of the best places to get something to eat cheaply.

The market consists of some little cafes as well as some street food stalls where you can get cheap plates of seafood like fish and fried rice dishes.

Another highlight in Waingapu is the handicrafts such as Ama Tukang workshop which will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about ikat, or traditional weaving.

3. Tarimbang Beach

Tarimbang Beach should be far more famous than it is and you will find it in East Sumba close to Waingapu.

The beach consists of clear blue waters and clean sands and the scenery that surrounds it is equally stunning.

On a visit here you can expect to be impressed by the magnificent cliffs and rock formations here and thanks to the pounding waves here surfing is a popular pastime at this beach.

4. Kampung Tarung

Kampung Tarung is a traditional little village in the Waikabubak region of Sumba and guests are welcome to visit to see how people have lived here for centuries.

On a visit to the village you can learn how people work on the land in Sumba as well as get an insight into the local traditions in this part of Indonesia.

The village also produces a range of local handicrafts, many of which are fashioned from animal horn, and which make great gifts or souvenirs.

Any purchases also help to support the local community and keep these handicraft traditions alive.

Kodi is a region that lies in the west of Sumba and is known for its main village which is called Bandokodi.

One reason to come here is to check out the traditional houses and their ornately carved roofs that soar into the sky as well as use it as a jumping off point to explore other areas such as Pero and Waikabubak.

6. Marosi Beach

Marosi Beach is known for being one of the prettiest spots in West Sumba and this is also a great place to come for anyone who likes to surf.

Some visitors are surprised by the surf scene in Sumba although those in the know have been coming here for years to enjoy the waves.

This beach is covered in white sand that turns into turquoise waters and the beach is also surrounded by greenery which makes it feel even more like a paradise island.

Surfers can enjoy rolling waves here which are usually pretty consistent compared to other parts of Sumba where the sea can sometimes be flat as a pancake.

7. Air Terjun Lapopu

This amazing waterfall lies in the Wanokaka area in the west of Sumba and is considered one of the most amazing waterfalls in Indonesia which is high praise indeed.

The waterfall is known locally as the Niagara of Indonesia and the waters gush from a height of 90 meters into a river below.

The entrance to the waterfall is somewhat hidden but you can easily get a guide to show you the right way and it is more than worth it to see the powerful jets of water tumbling down the mountainside.

8. Waikabubak

Waikabubak is also thought of as one of the central hubs in Sumba although in reality it is more a loose collection of little villages that sit in the middle is emerald hued fields encircled by pretty rolling hills One of the big draws here is that you can check out the amazing megalithic stone graves for which Sumba is famous, and venture out from Waikabubak into the smaller villages that surround it such as Kampung Tarung.

9. Mandorak Beach

Mandorak Beach backs onto a pretty lagoon and is located close to Weekuri Lake.

The water here is a striking shade of turquoise and the beach is lined with powdery white sand making it a great place to sunbathe and relax as you take in the views.

You can also swim here as the waters are clear and calm and you are unlikely to be bothered by crowds although you may see the occasional fishing boat drive past as fishing is one of the main industries in this area.

The beach is small but this adds to the charm and this is also one of the cleanest beaches in the area so it is well work seeking out.

10. Sumba Cultural Conservation and Learning Institute

If you want to find out more about the culture in Sumba then head to the Cultural conservation and Learning Institute which is located in Sumba Barat Daya.

This museum has a range of galleries dedicated to showcasing artifacts from different tribal communities in Sumba and you will also find some reconstructions of traditional houses as well as ornate tombstones from the days of old that can weigh an impressive 30 tons.

One of the other big draws at the museum is that they also offer trips out to visit some of the local villages if you want to see how people have lived in Sumba for centuries.

11. Pero Village and Surf Spot

Pero is a delightful village in Sumba although it is only that- a small village which has a single homestay in it.

People continue to come here however for the surfing and this is actually one of the most famous backpacker haunts in Sumba.

The main reason to come here is to enjoy the beach and the surf and you can also rent a scooter here and explore the many twisting roads that run around the village and will take you past epic scenery filled with lush valleys and jade green hills.

12. Laiwangi Wanggameti National Park

Nature lovers absolutely shouldn’t miss this national park in Sumba which is the best place to come if you want to see a whole host of plants, trees, and exotic animals.

The plant life here is exquisite and you will find a range of protected species that are native to this part of Sumba.

There are also several rare and endangered species of animals here such as crab-eating macaques, pythons, and Sumba green pigeons.

Also not to be missed in the park is the towering centerpiece in the form of the Waingapu Waterfall.

13. Ratenggaro Village

Sumba has several traditional villages that you can visit and another one of these is Ratenggaro Authentic Village which is situated in Kodi Province.

On a tour of the village you can check out the local houses which legend has it were built without the use of a single nail and are slotted together with pieces of bamboo.

You can also pick up some traditional handicrafts in the form of instruments, boxes, or carved statues and these make great souvenirs of your trip out to the village.

One of the big draws at the village is the fact that it is located close to a cliff overlooking the ocean which is studded with monolithic burial sites.

There are also some tombs of members of the former royal family here.

14. Sumba Manupeu Tanah Daru National Park

One of the main national parks in Sumba is the Sumba Menupeu Tanah Daru National Park which is made up of towering hills that soar up to 600 meters in height.

The park teems with flora and fauna including 118 types of rare plants and 87 different species of birds.

Of these you will also find 7 indigenous species including the Sumba flycatcher, apricot-crested sunbird, and the Sumba green pigeon.

There are also Sumba hornbills that live in the park as well as an amazing 57 species of colorful butterflies meaning that nature lovers won’t be disappointed on a trip here.

Some spots to look out for in the park include the Matayangu Waterfall and Waimanu Village.

15. Watu Malado Beach

Watu Malado Beach is one of the most breathtaking beaches in Sumba and consists of craggy cliffs which give way to clean sands and clear seas.

The different kinds of colorful coral here are spectacular and one thing to look out for here is the large rock formations that are scattered along the sand including one particularly impressive graceful arc.

In the day time you can enjoy swimming and sunbathing but one of the best things to do is come here at sunset to watch the sun drop below the horizon across the glittering water.

15 Best Places to Visit in Sumba (Indonesia):

• Weekuri Lake
• Tarimbang Beach
• Kampung Tarung
• Marosi Beach
• Air Terjun Lapopu
• Mandorak Beach
• Sumba Cultural Conservation and Learning Institute
• Pero Village and Surf Spot
• Laiwangi Wanggameti National Park
• Ratenggaro Village
• Sumba Manupeu Tanah Daru National Park
• Watu Malado Beach

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Sumba, only an hour away from Bali , is a land of contrasts. The east of the island is made up of arid grasslands and limestone plateaux, while the west is fertile and green, with rolling hills and a long rainy season. It's one of the best hidden secrets of Indonesia and well worth a visit if you are interested in culture, unspoiled beaches and some of the best surfing in Indonesia.

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Sumba, not to be confused with Sumbawa , is part of the East Nusa Tenggara province and is the third-largest island in the region. Sumba is home to a diverse range of landscapes, from pristine beaches and rolling hills to rocky cliffs and dense forests.

The island is known for its unique culture and traditions hat is deeply rooted in the beliefs and practices of its indigenous communities. You can witness traditional ceremonies, explore ancient megalithic sites, and learn about the island's history and customs.

It also boasts some of the most stunning landscapes in Indonesia , from pristine beaches and turquoise waters to rolling hills and rugged cliffs. The island is also home to several national parks and protected areas that offer opportunities for hiking and wildlife spotting.

And if that doesn't convince you, a range of outdoor activities for adventure enthusiasts, including surfing, snorkelling, scuba diving, and trekking awaits.

Keen on travelling here? Maybe our Indonesian local experts can help you out!

Bawana Beach, Sumba, Indonesia © Shutterstock

Sumba offers a wide range of activities and experiences for visitors. Whether you're interested in exploring the island's culture and history, or prefer to spend your time outdoors, there is something for everyone in Sumba.

Here are some of the best things to do on Sumba.

#1 Visit the Weekuri Lagoon

The Weekuri Lagoon is the most visited sight on Sumba. This natural wonder is a crystal-clear lagoon located in the south of the island, surrounded by towering cliffs and lush greenery. The water is incredibly clear and inviting, making it a perfect spot for swimming and snorkeling.

You can relax on the sandy shores of the lagoon or take a dip in the refreshing water. The lagoon is also a great spot for photography, with stunning views of the surrounding landscape. Additionally, there are several vendors selling snacks and drinks nearby, making it a great spot for a picnic.

There are some facilities, but very basic, so bring some water and snacks.

#2 Take in the view from Nihi Sumba

Nihi Sumba is a world-renowned luxury resort located on the western coast of Sumba. The resort is situated on a pristine stretch of beach, with breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean. Unless you have a big budget (£1,700+ per night) youcan take in the stunning view from the comfort of your own private villa, or from one of the resort's many viewing decks and lookout points.

If you are not a visitor or a friend of the owner, you are not allowed to enter, but luckily, you can drive up to the resort and take in the views from the cliff. The view from Nihi Sumba is simply breathtaking, with turquoise waters stretching out as far as the eye can see, framed by dramatic cliffs and lush greenery.

The sunset view is particularly spectacular, with the golden light reflecting off the water and casting a warm glow over the entire landscape.

#3 Learn to surf

Sumba is an excellent destination for surfers of all levels, whether you're a beginner looking to learn how to surf or an experienced surfer looking for a new challenge. There are several surf schools and surf camps on the island that offer lessons and equipment rental.

One of the best surf spots on the island is Nihiwatu Beach , which offers consistent waves and a range of breaks for surfers of different levels.

Other popular surf spots on the island include Watu Maladong Beach, Marosi Beach, and Tarimbang Beach.

#4 Visit traditional villages

Visiting traditional villages is one of the most popular and rewarding things to do on Sumba. The island is home to several indigenous communities, each with their own distinct culture and traditions. You can experience the warmth and hospitality of the locals and learn about their way of life.

One of the most famous villages on the island is the village of Waikabubak , located in the west of the island. Surrounded by lush green meadows and forested hills, tiny Waikabubak encloses several kampung with slanting thatched roofs and megalithic stone graves, where life proceeds according to the laws of the spirits. Kampung Tarung, on a hilltop just west of the main street, has some excellent megalithic graves and is regarded as one of the most significant spiritual centres on the island.

The ratu (king) of Tarung is responsible for the annual wula padu ceremony, which lasts for a month at the beginning of the Merapu New Year in November. The ceremony commemorates the visiting spirits of important ancestors, who are honoured with animal sacrifices and entertained by singing and dancing. Kampung Praijiang is a fine five-tiered village on a hilltop surrounded by rice paddies, several kilometres east of town.

Prailu is the most visited of the local ikat-weaving villages, and is an easy walk from the hotels near the market. After signing in at the large, traditional house, you can inspect weavings that weren’t good enough to be bought by the traders.

View of beautiful Prai Ijing traditional village on a rainy overcast day, Waikabubak, Sumba island, East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia © Shutterstock

#5 Explore the best beaches

Sumba's beaches are some of the best in Indonesia and offer visitors a chance to unwind and enjoy the natural beauty of the island. Here are some of the best beaches to visit on Sumba:

Nihiwatu Beach

Located on the western coast of the island, Nihiwatu Beach is known for its pristine white sand and turquoise waters. The beach is a popular spot for surfing, and visitors can also take part in other water sports such as snorkeling, stand-up paddleboarding, and kayaking.

Watu Maladong Beach

This secluded beach is located in the east of the island and is known for its dramatic rock formations and crystal-clear waters. The beach is a great spot for swimming and snorkeling, and visitors can also explore the nearby caves and rock pools

Weekuri Lagoon

While not technically a beach, Weekuri Lagoon is a must-visit destination on Sumba. The lagoon is a natural pool of crystal-clear water surrounded by limestone cliffs and lush greenery. Visitors can swim, snorkel, and relax on the sandy shores of the lagoon.

Marosi Beach

This stunning beach is located in the west of the island and offers visitors a chance to enjoy a peaceful and unspoiled setting. The beach is popular for surfing, and visitors can also take long walks on the sandy shores and enjoy the breathtaking sunsets.

Mandorak Beach

Located on the southern coast of the island, Mandorak Beach is known for its impressive rock formations and clear waters. Visitors can snorkel and explore the nearby coral reefs, or relax on the beach and soak up the sun.

#6 Vistit the largest town: Waingapu

It may be the largest port and town on Sumba, but Waingapu is far from a modern metropolis. Goats wander along the main road, horses are stabled in front porches, and locals still walk around barefoot, with ikat tied around their heads and waists.

The older half of the hourglass-shaped town is centred around the port, the newer part around the market. It’s only a fifteen-minute walk between the two, but every passing ojek will assume you need a lift. The bay to the west of town has a harbour at the extreme point of either shore; all ferries dock at the western harbour, requiring an eight-kilometre journey around the bay to town.

The eastern harbour in the old town is now just used for fishing boats, and can be picturesque, especially at sunset.

#7 Visit tradtional houses in Kodi and Pero

In the extreme west of Sumba lies the increasingly popular Kodi district. Its centre is the village of Bandokodi, well known for the towering roofs that top its traditional houses. It is also one of the main Pasola venues in west Sumba. With your own transport, you can explore the area from Waikabubak, or you can stay in Pero. There are direct buses from Waikabubak to Bandokodi, but they can be hard to find; it’s easy enough to take a bus to Waitabula in the north and then connect to a Kodi service, which should take you all the way to Pero – check the price with a local, as drivers will optimistically ask for many times the real price. Direct buses back to Waikabubak leave Pero around 6am – you should be able to connect back to Waingapu the same day if necessary.

#8 Attend the Pasola

By far the best-known and most dazzling festival in Nusa Tenggara, the Pasola is one of those rare spectacles that actually surpasses all expectations. It takes place in Kodi and Lamboya in February and in Wanokaka and Gaura in March; most hotels can give you a rough idea of the date. This brilliant pageant of several hundred colourfully attired, spear-wielding horsemen in a frenetic and lethal pitched battle is truly unforgettable.

It occurs within the first two moons of the year, and is set off by the mass appearance of a type of sea worm which, for two days a year, turns the shores into a maelstrom of luminous red, yellow and blue. The event is a rite to balance the upper sphere of the heavens and the lower sphere of the seas. T

he Pasola places the men of each village into two teams in direct opposition; the spilling of their blood placates the spirits and restores balance between the two spheres. The proceedings begin several weeks before the main event, with villagers hurling abuse and insults at their neighbours in order to get their blood up.

A man with his horse before doing a Pasola event © Akmal Luthfi M/Shutterstock

Sumba offers a wide range of accommodations to suit different budgets and preferences, from luxury resorts to more affordable guesthouses. These are some of the best areas to stay in Sumba.

Southwest Sumba

This region is home to some of Sumba's best beaches and surf spots, making it a popular destination for surfers and beachgoers. The area is also home to luxury resorts like Nihi Sumba and Lelewatu Resort Sumba.

This region is known for its traditional villages and cultural attractions, making it a great destination for visitors interested in experiencing Sumba's unique culture. The area also offers a range of accommodation options, from budget-friendly guesthouses to luxury resorts.

This town is located in western Sumba and is a hub for transportation and services on the island. Tambolaka offers a range of accommodation options, including budget-friendly hotels and mid-range guesthouses.

Some of the best hotels are:

• Nihi Sumba: This award-winning luxury resort is located on the western coast of Sumba, offering stunning views of the Indian Ocean.
• Lelewatu Resort Sumba: This luxurious resort is situated on a hilltop, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
• Nusa Island Retreat : This eco-resort is located on a private island off the coast of Sumba, offering a secluded and tranquil retreat.
• Mario Hotel & Cafe: This budget-friendly hotel is located in the heart of Waingapu, the main town in Sumba.

Access to Sumba is either by ferry from Ende in Flores to Waingapu or from Sape in Sumbawa to Waikelo, or by air to either Waingapu or Waikabubak. Most people choose to fly out of Waingapu rather than Waikabubak, which has a very chequered record for reliability and cancellations.

You can fly directly from Bali.

To truly experience the best of what Sumba has to offer, it is recommended to spend at least five to seven days on the island. This will allow enough time to explore the various regions of the island, including its traditional villages, beautiful beaches, and natural attractions.

You can spend a few days in the Southwest Sumba region, relaxing on the beaches and trying out some water sports like surfing or stand-up paddleboarding. After that, you can explore the East Sumba region, which offers cultural experiences like visiting traditional villages and learning about the island's unique customs and traditions.

Need help with planning? Contact our local experts !

Your best option to get around on Sumba is either a rental scooter or a car with a driver. It is not advisable to drive the car yourself. The main roads are good, but as soon as you deviate from them, it becomes a lot less with many dirt roads and holes in the road. The roads around Nihi Sumba have been completely renewed and asphalted.

Public transport is not an option.

The best time to visit Sumba is during the dry season, which runs from May to September. During this time, the weather is generally sunny and dry, with lower humidity and cooler temperatures. This makes it an ideal time to explore the island's outdoor attractions, such as its beaches and natural sites.

The wet season in Sumba runs from October to April, with the heaviest rains occurring between December and February

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Sumba Travel Guide

Hidden behind Flores and Sumbawa islands at the bottom of the Lesser Sunda Island group, Sumba tends to get passed over by most islands hoppers, including the organised cruises which usually stick to the north of Sumbawa. But there’s one group of people that come from all over the world to visit Sumba – surfers!

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Almost the entire long southern coast of the island is exposed to swells generated by Southern Ocean storms thousands of kilometres away and seasonal south-east trade winds. It’s a surfer’s paradise with a wide variety of waves to suit beginners, world class surfers and everyone in between. “Occy’s Left” at Nihiwatu on the south-west coast is considered one of the world’s most exclusive waves.

But you don’t have to be into surfing to enjoy Sumba. The island has some of the best preserved traditional culture in Indonesia and is dotted with traditional villages, local markets, delightful river valleys and waterfalls. Almost the entire coast is lined with perfectly sheltered bays with fringing coral reefs for swimming and snorkelling and some delightfully laid back villages in which to base yourself. For adventure seekers happy to just get out there and explore, there’s a reward around every corner.

Endowed with gentle, undulating hills cloaked in waving russet grass and limestone cliffs, Sumba bears little resemblance to its neighbours. The locals tend plots of maize, cassava and rice but the poor soils produce barely enough to feed the islanders and with few other income streams, the Sumbanese are among the poorest in Indonesia. NGO’s and recent government attention has brought some improvement over the last decade, and a trickle of tourists are providing much needed income which is likely to improve as word of the island’s sleepy villages and well preserved traditional culture seeps out.

The key to Sumba’s rich cultural history is its isolation. The Sumbanese believe the first inhabitants came not from somewhere else but descended from heaven via a ladder to found the first village of Wunga. On an island with scarce resources, warring between the clans and small kingdoms for land and trading rights was almost inevitable. Believing it would bring good harvests and wealth for the village, warriors brought the heads of slain enemies back to their villages where they were displayed on Andung (skull trees). Kidnappings and slavery between the villages were also common. For reasons of defence, villages were built on hilltops and surrounded by stone walls. Not surprisingly, the violence deterred visitors from neighbouring islands, sealing Sumba’s fate to one of geographic, economic and cultural isolation.

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The Ultimate Guide to Sumba

Have you always wanted to travel back in time and get a taste of an ancient civilization? Welcome to the Ultimate Guide to Sumba!

In Sumba, a mysterious and rugged island located in East Nusa Tenggara, southwest of Flores , you can get a glimpse of tribal villages built on hilltops and fortified by historic stone walls.

Here, rolling Savannah and uncharted limestone hills layer the countryside, while hilltop villages with thatched tribal homes are guarded by megalithic tombs . This is also one of the prime destinations for surfers around the world.

While Bali and Lombok have become households names around the world, Sumba Island is still relatively undiscovered. Sumba Island is still reserved for the most adventurous of travelers.

As locations are spread far apart and require hours of driving to travel between them, it is recommended to set aside several days to explore the island, as well as hire a car for safety reasons. Some parts, such as major areas across Southwest Sumba Regency, also lack electricity access, meaning the roads are pitch black after dusk.

Despite the long drives, the stunning views will most likely keep you charmed along the way. Here is the ultimate guide to Sumba includes best destinations to visit , how to get there, travel tips and basic safety information in Sumba.

A brilliant escape at Walakiri Mangrove Beach

Walakiri has a beautiful stretch of white sandy beach with gentle waves, coconut trees and unique pygmy mangroves you can’t miss. When the tide is low, the beach is shallow with a soft sandy bottom that is perfect for swimming. You’ll also spot seaweed farms on the edge of the sandbank near the mangroves. If you’re in the mood to pick up seashells on the sand, you’re in luck – this beach has plenty of them.

Get Lost in time at Wairinding Hill

This unspoiled Savannah is a sight to behold. With green beds of grass zig-zagging across the horizon, this is a perfect spot to unwind and relax at after a long hike and gaze out at the limestone hills covered in soft greenery.Let your mind wander in tranquility, where there’s only you and nature. Although the Savannah appears fierce green during the rainy season (November-May), it transforms into a beautiful field of gold in the dry season (July-October).

Swim in an Angel’s Lake: Weekuri Lagoon

Weekuri Lagoon is located in North Kodi, Southwest Sumba. It is one of the most popular destinations as the turquoise waters lure both locals and visitors alike for a swim. There is a jumping board for thrill seekers. It is important, however, to check the tides before planning a swim. At this paradise lake, the turquoise water turns gold at sunset – a magical moment you don’t want to miss!

Separated by cliffs, this tidal lagoon is only 20 meters away from the sea with a sandy bottom and cool waters that are perfect for swimming.  Sit under one of the shady trees while dipping your feet in the cool water and marvel at the beauty of your surroundings. Like many hidden gems on this island, you won’t find many people here.

Come in the morning when you can see the sunlight piercing through the water to the bottom of the lake, and get your snorkel goggles on!

Visit traditional villages and immerse yourself in local culture

image source: flickr

Tribal bamboo houses with dramatic roofs: Ratenggaro Village and beach. Kampung Ratenggaro is one of the most visited traditional villages in Sumba. Located next to a beautiful and deserted beach, it’s also one of the most picturesque.

This is one of the few places on the island where you’ll find traditional bamboo-structured homes with dramatic rooftops as high as 25 metres tall. Like other villages in Sumba, the tall roofs were built to honor ancestral spirits according to their Marapu faith.

The quaint beach is a perfect addition to this small village in southwestern Sumba. The water is clear and the waves are sizable with long rolls, suitable for surfing. About 500 metres from the village along the coast, you can also spot some megalithic tombs dating back to 4500 years ago.

Prai Ijing Customary Village

Located in Waikabubak, the village follows the traditional layout of houses surrounding megalithic tombs that were built for the residents’ ancestors. The entrance to the village is perched atop a hill, offering sweeping views of the traditional housing cluster.

Residents are friendly and welcoming, creating a warm environment to learn about the village’s history and people. Make sure to be respectful of local etiquette when entering the village. Visitors are also expected to leave a donation for the village.

White sand and clear water: Watu Parunu Beach

Here, you can find crystal blue water with soft white sands and coconut trees lined up quietly on the shore. Climb to the top of the rock formation – the view is absolutely amazing.

As this is a lesser known beach, it is quite unlikely that you will meet other travelers. But if you’re lucky, you may be able to see fishermen returning from the sea, bringing catch of the day! Watu Parunu is ideal for swimming.

Postcard-perfect view: Bawana Beach

On the beach, you’ll notice its iconic arch – essentially a large hole in the rock formation that stands firmly on the shoreline while the waves crash in.

From a distance, the view at Bawana beach will remind you of the amazing green cliffs in Ireland. You will see miles of unspoiled beach with pounding waves lined along the majestic cliff.

You’ll likely have the beach all to yourself, and we recommend going during sunset to catch an even more magnificent view!

Marvel at the endless blue waters of Sumba’s biggest waterfall: Waikelo Sawah

Be warned, this IS a man-made waterfall and is purely for your visionary pleasure and not suitable for swimming at all!

Surrounded by the verdant greenery under the foot of the hill, this waterfall is also situated under several magnificent caves. As a result, you have one of the nature’s best architectural design – a cave lagoon framed by the panoramic emerald green and the most exotic stone entrance.

The best time to visit Waikelo Sawah is around February, March and November. You’ll get to witness the traditional annual rituals in Sumba such as Pasola, a spear-fighting equestrian game and Wula Podu, a sacred local dance.

Lapopu Waterfall : Turquoise Lagoon

The waterfall ran over rocks before falling over the edge of the slope into a huge turquoise lagoon. Located in Central Sumba regency in Manurara is Lapopu Waterfall. As it is located near Prai Ijing Customary Village, it is a convenient stop that can be done on the same day as the village.

It is best to come during the dry season, as visitors must traverse an uneven and slippery trail to the waterfall. The short trail, which is about a 15-minute walk, also passes a bamboo bridge to cross the river. Lapopu is 90 meters in height. The refreshing river is perfect for a dip on a hot day.

The waterfall is a popular tourist destination, and visitors must pay parking and entrance fees, as well as hiring a local guide to help them reach the area. During public holidays, Lapopu is popular among locals, who come for a picnic in the seating areas around the riverside.

Dip in the secret emerald pool of Waimarang Waterfall

Waimarang is one of Sumba’s most beautiful waterfalls. The main draw of this place is the sublime and otherworldly waterfall pool.

The rock wall surrounding the pool creates the feeling of being in a cave, with the wall covered in green moss and vegetation of the dense forest towering above.

River tubing at Tanggedu Waterfall

image source: phinemo

You will pass through the traditional villages of Mondu and Prainatang while travelling to this waterfall, which has been gaining popularity from the locals and visitors alike.

Between rock formations that resemble a canyon, clear and cool water tumbles down from the waterfall, surrounded by unspoiled nature.

If you’re brave enough, tube down the river! Although this place is far from the town and roads there are bumpy, the time and effort taken would be worth it when you catch sight of this natural beauty.

Learn about the local arts and history at Sumba Cultural Research and Conservation Institute

Located in Waitabula, this donation-based cultural institute (otherwise known as Rumah Budaya) has more than 500 artifacts from all over the island, dating back to the 16th Century. You can find displays of old photographs, various pottery and an ongoing project that shows how tombs are carved.

If you want to take a break from nature and wilderness, stop by the institute to learn the history and connect the dots.

Initiated by a Catholic priest, Father Robert Ramone, the sole purpose of the institute is to preserve the local culture of Sumba. Through private donations, Rumah Budaya has helped locals to build and rebuild 78 traditional houses.

In addition to the museum, Rumah Budaya also provides accommodation, meeting rooms, tour packages and transport options for everyone who wants to experience Sumba .

Join the festivities and celebrate Pasola (spear fighting) with the locals

Traditional spear-fighting competitions, otherwise known as Pasola ceremonies, take place every year around February and March (during the full moon) in West Sumba. This year the festival will be held on :

• 7 March , local time 10:00 am PASOLA MALITI BONDO ATE
• 8 March , local time 10:00 am PASOLA WAIHA
• 9 MARCH,local time 10:00 am PASOLA WAINYAPU

This is probably one of the biggest attractions for foreigners coming to Sumba.

Check our :

Pasola festival   program for more info !

The intention of this festival is to spill blood between the tribes to fertilise the land, please the Marapu gods and to ensure a successful harvest. There are no winners and few rules apply.

Two teams of spear-wielding and ikat-clad horsemen brace each other in this extravagant tournament. You’ll find many local homes opening their doors to visitors and temporary snack stalls being set up near the Pasola field. It’s festive, eventful, and yes – bloody. Even at the start of the festival, your adrenaline will get pumping as you watch the men march towards each other.

After the march, the women place offerings on the tombs, and sing and chant ritual songs late into the night. The songs attract the appearance of nayle worms (a species of sea-worm), and when this occurs, a chicken is sacrificed and the Pasola can officially begin.

Eco-friendly accommodation that gives back to the community: Nihiwatu Resort

Staying at this unpretentious luxurious beachfront resort doesn’t mean extravagance and excess. Did you know that while you’re enjoying a slice of heaven at Nihiwatu Resort, you’re actually making a difference to the local communities?

Nihiwatu Resort started   The Sumba Foundation  that is committed in providing humanitarian aid to the local communities by fostering village-based projects in health (including access to healthcare and malaria control), education, water and income-generation. It is done in a way that preserves and respects the culture of the Sumbanese people.

So how do I get to Sumba?

There are two airports on the island of Sumba, one in East Sumba and the other in Southwest Sumba. The airport in East Sumba is Umbu Mehang Kunda. It was previously known as Mau Hau and is located in the town of Waingapu. The airport in Southwest Sumba is called Tambolaka.

Direct flight to Sumba is only available from two cities, Denpasar ( Bali ) and Kupang (Timor). If you want to visit Sumba from anywhere else in Indonesia you will have to transit through one of these two cities first.

A number of airlines fly to Sumba, including Garuda Indonesia, Lion Air, and Sriwijaya Air. If you want to fly with Garuda Indonesia then you will need to fly to Tambolaka Airport.

When to travel?

The best time to travel to Sumba is between April and July, after the monsoon. If you are a surfer, you may want to visit during the period of May to September. It’s generally more rainy from November to April.

Basic safety information in Sumba

Malaria: Yes, the risk of malaria is unfortunately still present in Sumba, like many rural areas in Indonesia. Don’t feed the vampires! Before you go, consult your family doctor on anti-malaria medication you can take and remember to bring light long-sleeved clothes and lots of mosquito repellent! Make sure your accommodation provides mosquito nets for you to sleep in too.

Travel tips:

Here are some travel hacks and tricks that will help you to get the most out of your adventure in Sumba.

1. Cash is king. There are ATM machines in Sumba’s main towns – Waingapu (capital), Waitabula and Waikabubak. Bank BNI and Mandiri are the most reliable and have better exchange rates. As you leave the bigger towns, change your cash into smaller bills as it is very difficult to find change for large bills in the villages.

2. Pack a flashlight. Like many rural regions in Indonesia, electricity is scarce. It’s common for generators to start running out of fuel after sunset and people use electricity sparingly. To prepare yourself for blackouts (which often happens), bring a flashlight with you if you want to catch up on some reading at night.

Check out our trips and activities in Sumba here !

Don’t forget to also check our 10 Days / 9 Nights Sumba Itinerary here !

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The Spice Route End

Independent travel & culture guides to indonesia, a guide to sumba island.

August 13, 2018 Elliot Sumba 2

Sumba is a rather remote island located south of Flores in the province of Nusa Tenggara Timur (East Lesser Sunda Islands). Home to a vibrant and distinctive local culture, Sumba can also boast itself about stunning and virgin beaches as well as some great sceneries.

Sumba Barat Daya : Kodi

Prohibitions in villages.

I would say that have I have met 3 kind of people travelling in Sumba :

• The island is well known as a great surf destination. The main spots are in Pero, Marosi and Baing.
• Sumba island is becoming increasingly popular among Indonesian travelers. They usually travel with a 6-15 people group to share costs and aim at covering a maximum of “Instagramable” spots in a few days: iconic landscapes, beaches, picturesque traditional villages and waterfalls.
• A more culture-oriented approach, mainly focused on discovering the unique traditions of the Sumbanese people. The pasola fights are only a single feature of the rich and fascinating cultural heritage of Sumba.

I spent more than 3 weeks travelling the island in November-December 2017. It was memorable, I can’t wait to get back there.

Sumba can still be very traditional : entire villages still following the old marapu faith, old women going bare-breasted around their house, huge feasts held to get blessing from the ancestors or several tons tombstones dragged by human labour for prestige…

Modernisation is on the way and the old traditions are also evolving. Yet this is one of the most mind-boggling trip I’ve made in Indonesia.

An immense shout out to Matthias, the editor of Sumba-Information website. He puts so much useful information online, a highly recommended website to browse.

Sumbanese culture

I have made some research back home about the ethnographic litterature on Sumba. The best books I found were :

• Gregory Forth, “ Rindi: An Ethnographic Study of a Traditional Domain in East Sumba “, Martinus Nijhoff, The Hague (1981).
• Janet Hoskins, “ The Play of Time : Kodi Perspectives on Calendars, History, and Exchange “, Berkeley : University of California Press (1993).

I also had a look on the work of Keane on Analakang (1990) and Gunawan on Wanokaka (1981). I skipped Geinaert-Martin on Lamboya (1992) by lack of time and I’m still looking for the thesis of Hoskins on Kodi.

I attempted to turn those research into a 3 parts article :

• Part 1 : history and identity of the Sumbanese
• Part 2 : the Marapu faith
• Part 3 : birth, marriage, funerals and other events of significant importance

Where to go in Sumba ?

I’m far from having explored the whole island. I posted some pictures of what I visited in different areas. I have put most of this stuff on a map to help you navigate the island. I’ve chosen only to indicate the location of famous villages.

For my next visit, I’m planning to further explore East Sumba (especially everything under Melolo) as well as Anakalang region.

East Sumba: Waingapu and Rende

East Sumba is probably the least visited area of the island. Some attractions around Waingapu are popular. I found the region around Melolo (including Rindi) to be very interesting with preserved strong traditions.

For more details, read this article .

Around Waikabubak

It’s probably the most convenient place in Sumba to visit traditional villages. A large numbers are within walking distance from town.

For more details, see this article .

Lamboya and Wanokaka

Another interesting region with great villages and lots of beaches.

Kodi is the most prominent of the Western Sumbanese domains. It’s also the homeground of the pasola .

Etiquette in Sumba

Guestbooks and betel/areca gifts.

You are expected to follow the local etiquette when visiting a village. Chewing betel and areca is an essential part of sociability in Sumba, you should always have some on you.

Go to any market in the main towns and buy areca nuts ( pinang ), betel fruits ( sirih ) and lime ( kapur ). The combination of the 3 elements is required to chew.

I would buy let’s say 20’000Rp of areca and betel each, plus 10’000Rp of lime. Then I would divide areca and betel into bundles of approximately 5’000-10’000Rp of value.

In most of the commonly visited villages, someone will ask you to fill a guestbook upon your arrival. Write down your name, your nationality and leave a small bill in the guestbook. 10’000Rp per person is a good standard.

You are then invited to sit on the front veranda and usually tea or coffee is served. It’s a good moment to offer some betel and areca you have brought (everyone have some lime at home). I felt that the adaptation to the local custom is more important than the actual gift. Still it would be very impolite to get everything you brought out of your bag, to give only a small part ; better prepare beforehands.

Cigarettes are also regularly requested but I’m not a smoker and I prefer to bring something that will be consumed by everyone and not only men, so I never had cigarettes on me and it wasn’t a problem.

Chewing betel is actually quite addictive. Simply do not put as much lime as they do if you don’t want to burn your entire mouth.

A very important Indonesian word you should know before exploring Sumba is pemali (sometimes simply shorten up to mali ) or ‘taboo’. You should always pay attention to where you put your feet when you walk. Any kind of flat stones (even very common one) could be an altar.

In order to avoid any misinterpretation, always ask where you should walk. Every time you want to take a picture of something, ask someone about it first. Often, villagers don’t want you to take pictures of some graves, altars or houses. Remember that they consider that those places are inhabited both by the livings and the spirits of the ancestors, which shall not be disturbed but only adressed in a very specific way.

As long as you show a genuine interest in their culture and tradition, I generally found Sumbanese I met very friendly and helpful.

When to go to Sumba ?

Guidebooks tend to suggest that the highlight of a trip to Sumba is to attend the pasola (different dates between February and March). But there is lot of other very interesting ritual activity throughout the year.

I was in Sumba in November and December, hence at the beginning of the rainy season, and it was quite fine. I had to get shelter for 1 or 2 hours sometimes but it was an opportunity to exchange with villagers.

In the dry season (from May until October approximately), the East of Sumba gets extremely dry and scorched, all the green vegetation disappear.

If you plan to visit some waterfalls, it’s better to go in the dry season where the water is pure blue. During the rainy season, it tends to be brown and sometimes not suitable for swimming.

How long to stay in Sumba ?

Local ‘open trips’ usually take local tourists in rented car from Tambolaka to Waingapu in 5 days. The program looks like that :

• Day 1 : arrive in Tambolaka and see some stuff around the town
• Day 2 : visit Weekuri lake, Mandorak beach, Rattengaro village and Bwanna beach
• Day 3 : visit Praijing village, Lai Popu waterfall, Warinding hill.
• Day 4 : visit Waikiri beach, Puru Kambera, Tanggedu waterfall
• Day 5 : visit Tanarara and fly out from Waingapu.

If you have only a few days ahead and want to see some characteristic villages, stunning beaches and other nice natural spots this is quite optimal. You will need you own transport though.

If you intend to discover the Sumbanese culture, you will need time. There is no public schedule for ceremonies, everything I came across was by pure luck or because someone had tiped me. You need to wander around and talk with people.

Without solid skills in Indonesian, a good guide could prove very useful especialy if you want to see some ritual activity. If you just want to visit Rattengaro and Praijing, you can go by yourself without a problem.

For information this is what I did :

• I arrived by plane in Waingapu and I stayed one night
• I moved to Waikabubak where I stayed 6 nights
• I moved to Wanokaka where I stayed 4 nights
• From Wanokaka, I moved to Pero where I stayed 3 nights
• I moved back to Waikabubak and I stayed 1 night in a village
• I went back to Waingapu where I stayed 2 nights
• I went to Melolo where I stayed 4 nights
• I went back to Waingapu and I took the ferry to Aimere

There is no immigration office in Sumba, if you need to renew your visa you need to go to Kupang or Flores (Labuan Bajo or Maumere).

Transport and accomodation in Sumba

Accomodation are rather expensive for Indonesian standards. Expect to pay a minimum of 200’000Rp for a simple room except in the main towns of Waingapu and Tambolaka.

Transport between main city is easy by bus. On more secondary itineraries, there is usually one bus a day, so better check the schedule first. On short distances, I found ojek drivers to be very reasonable on their prices. Riding on the back of truck is also sometimes possible.

I rented easily motorbikes in Pero and Waingapu, the daily rate is 100’000Rp. Besides those 2 places it was much more difficult. Overall I’ve rented a motorbike only 3 days out of the 22 I spent on this island, almost everything can be covered on foot and by public transport with some patience and a bit of Indonesian.

Coming to Sumba

By planes, you have daily connections from Denpasar and Kupang to Tambolaka and Waingapu.

By boat, ASDP connects Welewo harbor in West Sumba to Sape (Sumbawa) and Waingapu harbor to Aimere, Sabu, Ende and Kupang. In my experience the schedule posted on ASDP website is not reliable. Send a message by Whatsapp to +62 823-4095-8883 (a staff from ASDP office in Kupang) to get the updated schedule of all boats in the province.

As of December 2017, there are 3 ASDP ferries stopping in Waingapu once a week each : Inerie II, Ranaka and Uma Kalada. From Waingapu to Aimere, the fare is 80’000Rp.

Pelni also have some ferries stopping by Sumba, the schedule posted on their website is reliable.

Other articles on Sumba

Sumba : kodi and southwest sumba, sumbanese culture : birth, life and death, sumbanese culture : the marapu, sumbanese culture: history and identity, sumba : wanokaka and lemboya, sumba : waikabubak’s traditional villages, sumba : around waingapu and melolo.

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Good afternoon I am a French lady photographer who works as volunteer for l’Ecole Française d’Extreme Orient. I do a research on South East Asia about the traditional costumes. I ask people in the villages to show me how they weave and if they can wear their festival clothes and I take some pictures…if necessary I give them a small tip and send them the printed pictures or the files if they are on FB. If it is affordable I buy some textiles in the villages. I was a long time ago in Sumba and I was impressed by the quality of the weavings. Is it possible for your agency to organize such trip for me at the end of April 2019 How long to get a good experience and what will be the budget Thanks again for your fast answer Best regards Martine AUGAIT

Dear Martine. Thanks for your comment. I’m not a travel agency, just a guy who really likes Indonesia. Without speaking Indonesian, I advise you to hire a local guide for such a project. Some contacts can be found on Sumba-Information.com.

I agree with you that Sumba probably have the best ikat of all Indonesia, it’s my favorite along with those crafted by the Savunese and the Lionese. Small productions centers are scattered over the island especially in East Sumba. Shops north of Waingapu are a good place to start looking.

Good luck to you.

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Beyond Bali, the Wild Indonesian Island of Sumba Is for In-The-Know Travelers

By Zachary Schwartz

The Indonesian island of Sumba offers the kind of sanctuary that travelers yearn for. A Sumba sojourn is a “change your life” kind of trip, offering a lost island forgotten in time with unspoiled beaches, rice paddy plateaus, savannah bush, and dense jungle—just an hour’s flight beyond Bali , but a world away.

Situated east of Bali within the archipelagic galaxy of Indian Ocean isles, Sumba is an ovoid, rural island—a bright emerald drop in a sapphire sea with virtually no traffic, tourist traps, or day trippers. The island is wild, in all senses of the word: from its untamed natural beauty, to the fierce pride in its culture, to its ability to challenge travelers’ expectations.

The Sumbanese way of life, in particular, is what makes this island so distinct. Most of Sumba’s residents are subsistence farmers, divided into clans that each speak a unique dialect. They live in rural villages of traditional huts with high-peaked roofs stretched up like taffy to the sky. Most people wear a medley of Western clothing and homespun ikat fabrics, harboring tucked-away scimitars, known as parangs. Many practice Marapu, an animist religion found only on Sumba centered around ancestral worship, animal sacrifice during funerals, burials in megalithic tombs, and ceremonial rites performed by shamans called ratos.

Remarkably, Sumba has managed to preserve its culture and stave off crowds, despite the pressures of tourism experienced in other parts of Indonesia. For the last century, visits to Sumba were anthropological or scientific in nature. Since the turn of the 21st century, tourism has revolved around a single, lavishly appointed property along the untouched western coast called Nihi Sumba.

But in the last year, a handful of new resorts have germinated along Sumba’s coastline, indicating there may be more development to come. With rumors that hotel chains like Four Seasons and Alila are planning to develop on Sumba, there’s no doubt it’s set to be the next major Indonesian luxury travel destination.

How to Get to Sumba

A trip to Sumba requires additional planning, as there are no international flights into Sumba nor direct flights from America to Indonesia. The only way to visit Sumba is to fly via Bali, despite Sumba’s close proximity to northern Australia. The one-hour scenic flight glides past Lombok and Sumbawa islands, with Komodo to the north in the distance. While intrepid travelers can venture independently to Sumba, Scott Dunn employs well-traveled experts who can assemble a seamlessly executed itinerary that removes any stress from travel. The main airport, Tambolaka, is rinky-dink at best—so travel arranged through an agency is recommended.

“Something we really pride ourselves in is making our guests’ travel as seamless as possible, and really just taking any stress out of travel to Sumba,” Scott Dunn’s Asia Expert Lili LeBaron shared with Vogue . Scott Dunn’s 24/7 services in Sumba include well-rounded itineraries with contacts on the ground, local guides, and more.

Where to Stay in Sumba

By Emma Specter

By Marie Bladt

By Hannah Jackson

The top resort on Sumba is the iconic Nihi Sumba. Run by hotelier James McBride and owner Chris Burch, NIHI Sumba creates magic from the raw landscape, transforming rice paddies into luxury nirvanas, a sea mist-shrouded coastline into a destination spa, and teak forests into eco-luxe villas. Located on the remote Nihiwatu Beach, Nihi Sumba is perhaps most impressive for what it has not done; the hotel has resisted the temptation of construction, affording guests privacy within villas set among the tropical wilderness with views of the sea. “The greatest luxury here is where you have a two-and-a-half kilometer beach, and you may see Sumbanese children washing their buffalo, a couple taking a walk, or someone galloping a horse down the beach,” McBride told Vogue . “That enjoyment is extraordinary. Where else can you find that in the world?”

From the moment of arrival in Sumba, NIHI Sumba’s safari vehicle whisks travelers on the exhilarating 1.5-hour drive traversing north to south, passing buffaloes, Sumbanese ponies, taro root roadside vendors, and villages with oblong huts made of corrugated metal. The adventurous ride through the island’s lush heartland smells of fresh earthy petrichor and wood-burning fire, and it’s not uncommon to pass funeral ceremonies with sacrificial livestock. The cold young coconuts and banana leaf-wrapped cakes prepared by Nihi Sumba make the multi-microclimate transfer all the more palatable.

Nihi Sumba is for the adventurous traveler who finds comfort in luxury. The activity-driven property has no shortage of riveting pursuits: surfing, horseback riding, padel, pickleball, spearfishing, and trekking through deciduous forests, to name a few. But for the traveler who prefers serenity over adrenaline, the resort’s spa delivers indulgence in a wabi-sabi setting. Detached from the main resort and accessible via horseback, trek, or safari vehicle, Nihi Sumba’s “spa safari” makes the most of its natural surroundings: waves crash against coconut husk-strewn coral coves, and one can smell the sea while enjoying a scrub, massage, or facial using oils derived from ingredients found across the island. Sensory catharsis at Nihi Sumba’s spa may also include meditative rice planting, a foot rub under an open-air bale, or connective breathwork with a Sumba pony.

In the last few years, a new wave of hotels has arrived in Sumba, offering tasteful design and crowdless beaches for a traveler fatigued by Bali’s congestion. The standout newcomer is Cap Karoso, a contemporary beach resort on Sumba’s sunny southwest coast offering seashore R&R with French flair. Founded in 2023 by Fabrice and Eve Ivara, Cap Karoso’s setting exhibits a quiet side of Sumba, nestled at the edge of dry savannah where corn fields and cashew trees greet milky, moody sunsets. “When you come here, you feel that it’s another time in a different world,” Eve Ivara told Vogue . “It’s just completely cut off from everyday life and feels really untouched. You have the feeling of getting close to a different culture and different way of living, which is pure and not touristy. I think that’s a treasure nowadays.”

Cap Karoso’s standout characteristic is its design. With a background working in fashion marketing at LVMH, Ivara chose to design the architecture of the property with a style she calls “modernist with a hint of brutalist.” While many of the materials are sourced within Indonesia, the look has a decisively European sensibility. Villas are more Scorpios than Seminyak, where private pools and an indoor-outdoor mentality resemble a resplendent residence one might find in Palm Springs or Formentera. All living spaces are accessorized with wicker and wood, statues and ceramics, and cement and stone. The textures make the architecture sing: ochre stones, singed banana leaves, knotted rugs, cyan tiles, and rope-strung chairs mean there’s no such thing as a bad photo across the property.

Photo: Zachary Schwartz

Wend your way through the sandy pathways—which criss-cross a maze of guava trees, sea hibiscus, and whizzing dragonflies—and you’ll arrive at Cap Karoso’s fine dining eatery Julang. Serving dinner across a long communal table jutting out from an open kitchen, it’s not uncommon to be seated next to sophisticated diners from Brooklyn, Canggu, or Lyon. Every month or two, a rotating chef visits from Europe to serve a bold tasting menu with ingredients fresh from the hotel’s organic farm. Most recently, Top Chef alumnus Baptiste Trudel has been cooking with locally sourced roselle flowers, freshly caught octopus, passion fruit, and farmed pak choy. The rotational chef is part of Cap Karoso’s cultural and experimental ethos, in which visiting tastemakers in food, music, and the arts are all invited to leave their mark on the hotel.

What to Do in Sumba

Given Sumba’s undeveloped tourism sector, there are no major tourist sights or restaurants. Hotels can arrange outdoor excursions like e-bike tours, horseback riding, waterfall hikes, swims in Weekuri Lagoon, or tours of traditional villages. Visits to centuries-old Sumbanese villages are the best and most respectful way to experience the island’s untampered culture, offering the opportunity connect with locals, understand how ikats are woven, and try chewing the analgesic betel nut that reddens the mouths and lightens the minds of villagers. Aside from the occasional roadside warung, dining in Sumba revolves around its hotels.

While in Sumba, you’ll want to get out on the water—and riding Occy’s Left is the ultimate surfer’s flex, known as one of the world’s most coveted and enviable waves. It propels consistently perfect swells that carry surfers several hundred meters towards Nihiwatu Beach, and is limited to only 12 surfers per day. Nihi Sumba offers white glove surfing, ferrying surfers via jet ski to the front of the left-leaning wave after each barrel ride.

The most recommended experience on Sumba is Nihi Sumba’s Wild Wellness retreats, immersive escapes that grant liberation from noisy reality. These are not woo-woo wellness retreats that deprive or set unrealistic expectations. Instead, Wild Wellness promotes pushing participants outside their comfort zones with novel well-being treatments and instinctual connections. On a Wild Wellness retreat, guests may participate in equine therapy, an ocean swim with Sumbanese ponies, underwater rock running, silent disco dancing with Sanctum , or an afternoon of spa treatments. Wild Wellness is an out-of-body experience certain to leave guests stronger, healthier, and more appreciative.

To leave the island a little better than when they arrived, visitors can volunteer with and donate to the Sumba Foundation , making a trip to Sumba an altruistic vacation they feel good about. The Sumba Foundation’s mission revolves around supporting Sumbanese people, with projects ranging from fighting malnutrition, providing villages with potable water, eradicating malaria, and setting up locals with professional skills. Additionally, visitors can stay at Maringi or dine at Makan Dulu, two hospitality projects by the Sumba Hospitality Foundation , a hospitality school in Sumba that funnels graduates into the burgeoning hotel scene in Sumba or further afield throughout Indonesia.

What to Shop for in Sumba

Sumba does not have a thriving shopping scene like Bali, but it does have authentically handwoven ikats. These gorgeous textiles take several months to craft, and are made of yarns dyed with natural materials like wood bark and indigo. They are traditionally handmade by Sumbanese women on looms for weddings and funerals, but can translate back at home as wall hangings, table runners, or colorful throws. Ikats from western Sumba tend to be simpler and striped, while ikats from eastern Sumba tend to exhibit more complex motifs with animals or people. They can be purchased at hotels or in Waingapu’s town markets. Nihi Sumba’s boutique, curated by retail expert Karen McBride, partners with a collective of local women called Karaja Sumba to source traditional ikats, as well as creatively repurposed ikats into fashionable garments and totes.

Another collectible to bring home is something from a new Sumbanese beauty line called Wallacea Skin, created under the guidance of pharmacognosist Dr. Simon Jackson. The brand empowers local communities by teaching them regenerative farming techniques to cultivate indigenous ingredients, then buys them to create sustainably sourced cosmetics. Wallacea Skin can be purchased at Nihi Sumba, including its moisturizing oil infused with seven Sumba plants: ginger, galangal, coriander seed, turmeric, mangosteen skin, cinnamon, and betel nut.

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No.1 Tour & Travel in Sumba

Tour Sumba is a tour operator based on Sumba Island, Indonesia. Our operator team consists of a group of young Sumba people who have a high spirit of travel. Since it was founded, we are committed to supporting local tourism development by sharing information about destinations, culture, culinary, and many more.

Officially, we are registered as :

Brand Name: Tour-Sumba

Legal Name : CV. Bilbo Sukses Abadi

Member of : Association of The Indonesian Tours and Travel Agencies (ASITA)

Travel Licensed Number : 0026/BPW.TR/2016

Based on our experience and background as a local community, Tour Sumba aims to provide a platform for an impressive and unique travel experience. We also help you to meet, interact and live with the local people of Sumba Island. Our team is always trying to give satisfaction to travel for travelers from various regions in Indonesia and abroad.

We invite you to Explore Sumba, an exotic island. We proudly bring you closer to feeling the natural beauty and authenticity of Sumba culture. With the hospitality, family and quality that we have, we guarantee that your Sumba Tour is the most unforgottable moment.

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Situated on the periphery of Ubud, in the village of Sayan, Uma Kalai offers guests intimate hospitality in undisputedly picturesque surroundings. With only six rooms and villas, the property has service at its heart with each staff member unwavering in their attention to detail.

The central public area houses a unique lounge and the hotel's only restaurant, Amma — here guests can relax and enjoy the endless views of the surrounding countryside and volcanic backdrop on a clear day. At Amma, you can expect a fusion of local and Italian cuisine served alongside a selection of locally sourced vegetables and fresh juices. The restaurant is also home to a small bar serving an array of cocktails, local beer, and barista style coffee.

Guests can also utilise the spectacular infinity pool, small gym or indulge with a Santi spa treatment. Shuttles into nearby Ubud are available for a small fee.

A unique and intimate accommodation option with striking views over the surrounding countryside.

OUR RATING: First Class

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The six rooms and villas at the estate offer large and airy bedrooms, dressing rooms and indoor/outdoor bathroom facilities. Some rooms come with a large terrace or their own plunge pool, ideal for hiding away and switching off in tranquil surroundings.

Located in Sayan on the outskirts of Ubud, Uma Kalai is tucked away down an unassuming side street, but benefits from outstanding panoramic views and is only a short shuttle transfer away from the centre of town.

Food and drink

Amma Restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. A selection of local and regional favourites are available and are prepared using the freshest ingredients. Guests can choose to dine in the privacy of their villa, on the terrace, or in the restaurant itself. Ubud, also has a comprehensive choice of dining options available and is just a short drive away.

Tour ideas in Ubud

Our itineraries are there to spark ideas for how you could include a stay at Uma Kalai as part of your trip. Treat them simply as suggestions, because every aspect of the trip we create for you will be yours to define.

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Location & places nearby

Places & hotels on the map, alternative places to stay nearby.

Where possible, we like to offer a range of accommodation for each stop of your trip, chosen by our specialists as some of their favorite places to stay. To help you make the right choice, we give each property a rating based on its facilities and service, but we also look for hotels with distinct character or a location that can’t be bettered.

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Experiences while staying here.

The following activities are designed to give you the most authentic experiences of the area where you’re staying. We work with local guides, who use their knowledge and often a resident’s eye to show you the main sights and more out-of-the-way attractions. Our specialists can also suggest outdoor pursuits and activities, such as cooking classes, that will introduce you to the traditions of the area’s inhabitants.

Ascent of Mount Agung

Mount Agung is Bali's highest and most sacred mountain. At 3,142 m its peak can be seen from right across the island and the Hindu population all line their beds toward it and sleep with their heads pointing in its direction as a sign of respect.

Cycling at Jatiluwih rice terraces

Cycle through colorful Balinese towns to the village of Jatiluwih (meaning 'really, really beautiful') which is famous for its magnificent panorama of the rice field terraces in this area.

Ubud and nearby places

• Sanur 12 miles away
• Seminyak 13 miles away
• Lembongan Island 19 miles away
• Jimbaran 19 miles away
• Munduk 21 miles away
• Candidasa 23 miles away
• Bukit Peninsula 22 miles away
• Tembok 28 miles away
• Lovina 29 miles away
• Medewi 30 miles away

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Respons Konflik Nihi Sumba dan Warga Lokal, Sandiaga Uno Tegur Investor yang Privatisasi Pantai

Menparekraf Sandiaga Uno menegaskan bahwa kawasan pantai merupakan milik publik. Investor perlu memperhatikan aturan-aturan garis pantai.

Diperbarui 03 Jun 2024, 20:41 WIB Diterbitkan 03 Jun 2024, 20:36 WIB

Liputan6.com, Jakarta - Viral larangan surfing di dekat lokasi resor mewah Nihi Sumba dengan warga lokal setempat ikut menuai respons Menteri Pariwisata dan Ekonomi Kreatif (Menparekraf) Sandiaga Uno . Kasus yang viral pertama kali di TikTok tersebut membuat warganet bertanya bagaimana aturan hukum yang mengaturnya.

"Kami menyampaikan di forum ini bahwa kawasan pantai merupakan kawasan publik. Jadi perlu digarisbawahi bahwa investor harus tetap memerhatikan aturan-aturan garis pantai ," jelas pria yang biasa disapa Sandi ini menjawab perseteruan yang melibatkan warga Desa Soba Wawi, Lamboya, di Sumba Barat itu dalam Weekly Brief with Sandi Uno, Senin (3/6/2024).

Kemenparekraf Ingatkan Hotel Bintang 5 yang Larang Warga Lokal Surfing di Sumba: Itu Kan Milik Negara

Viral pengelola hotel bintang 5 di sumba larang warga lokal surfing di laut, klaim masuki wilayah pemanfaatan.

"Tidak ada yang namanya pantai pribadi, semuanya adalah kawasan publik," sambung mantan Wakil Gubernur Jakarta tersebut. 

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Ia menjelaskan, aturan ini telah tertuang dalam Peraturan Presiden (Perpres) No 51 tahun 2016 tentang batas Sempadan Pantai. Dari sana dapat dipastikan bahwa pantai adalah kawasan publik dan tanah milik negara. 

"Bahwa dilarang pantai ini dijadikan area privat atau diprivatisasi. Sangat-sangat tidak diperbolehkan," tegas Sandi.

Dengan kejadian ini, Sandi mengungkapkan bahwa pihaknya akan terus berkoordinasi dan menyosialisasikan agar pihak pengelola pariwisata memberikan akses bagi publik. 

"Di Nusa dua aja kita boleh lewat, tidak ada masalah selama tidak menggangu ketertiban dan tidak menggangu keamanan," katanya lagi, sambil mengingatkan pelaku pariwisata  agar prinsip berkualitas dan berkelanjutan dengan efek sosial ekonomi, budaya yang terus dijaga dan juga kelestarian lingkungannya.

* Follow Official WhatsApp Channel Liputan6.com untuk mendapatkan berita-berita terkini dengan mengklik tautan ini .

Awal Mula Viral Saat Dilarang Surfing

Sebelumnya Nihi Sumba jadi sorotan tajam setelah sebuah video viral yang diunggah akun TikTok @ishakmaja20 merekam saat-saat mereka di'usir' dari laut saat hendak surfing. Di video singkat tersebut, seorang perempuan berkaus biru dongker yang mengaku manajer hotel duduk di atas perahu melarang warga lokal surfing di sekitar area laut dekat hotel itu.

Kejadian tersebut terjadi di Desa Soba Wawi, Kecamatan Lamboya, Kabupaten Sumba Barat, menurut video yang diunggah pada 25 Mei 2024. "Ini dari Nihi Watu? kenapa bisa larang. Atas dasar apa kami dilarang?" tanya warga lokal itu kepada perempuan tersebut.

"Kami punya izin pemanfaatan bapak, usaha kami punya izin," jawab perempuan tersebut, menambahkan bahwa pihaknya dapat izin dari pemerintah pusat. 

Pria dalam video tersebut kembali mempertanyakan dasar hukumnya. "Atas dasar apa sehingga laut bisa dilarang?" tanyanya lagi. "Kan ada pemanfaatan di sini Pak," sahut pihak Nihi Sumba. "Kita manfaat, kerja juga," balas warga lokal itu.

Pembelaan Warga Lokal

Kemudian, pengelola bertanya lagi apakah ia memiliki izin untuk beraktivitas di laut itu. Warga lokal tersebut merasa bahwa tidak bisa dituntut terkait izinnya untuk mencari nafkah di laut. 

"Kalau kakak larang kami, itu dari hukum mana, pasal berapa ayat mana? Dari KUHP mana?" jawab warga lokal tersebut, sambil mengajak untuk berbicara lebih lanjut terkait masalah izin dan hukumnya. 

Menanggapi video yang viral dengan 21 ribu lebih tanda suka tersebut, warganet ikut berdebat di kolom komentar. Banyak yang membela warga lokal tersebut, tapi ada pula yang coba menjelaskan tentang izin pemanfaatan.

"Itu area pemanfaatan jadi dilarang untuk surfing di situ,"  tulis seorang warganet di TikTok.

"Emang ibunya yang bikin tu laut,"  warganet lain membela warga lokal.

"Laut memang milik masyarakat tapi ingat untuk batas jarak tertentu dari tepian harus memiliki izin," kata yang lain mengingatkan.

Tanggapan Warganet

"Mereka boleh beli tanah tapi tidak bisa beli laut, mereka buat hotel juga sudah melewati batas negara, kalau ombaknya tidak ganas mungkin mereka sudah buat rumah di laut,"  balas warga lokal tersebut menjawab warganet.

"Kaka laki-laki tanyakan ke Kementerian Maritim dan Investasi untuk pemanfaatan pantai dan laut biar jelas," warganet yang lain memberi saran penyelesaian.

"Pulau oke lah bisa milik pribadi, lah laut??? kocak bener," kata warganet lain. 

Liputan6.com berusaha mengonfirmasi hal tersebut kepada pihak hotel. Tapi, sampai berita ini ditulis belum ada tanggapan dari yang bersangkutan.

Nama resor Nihi Sumba tak asing dengan banyak publikasi positif dari berbagai media internasional. Conde Nast Traveler yang merilis Golden List misalnya, memasukkan Nihi Sumba dalam kategori Hotel dan Resort Terbaik di Dunia 2023.

Dalam daftar tahunan ke-29 itu dipilih dengan "penuh semangat oleh tim internasional kami," tulis mereka, dikutip dari situs webnya, Kamis, 4 Januari 2024. Daftarnya mengungkap termasuk resor tepi laut mana yang mereka kunjungi setiap bulan Agustus.

NIHI Sumba sebagai salah satu rekomendasi dituliskan sebagai akomodasi yang cukup sulit dicapai. Mereka mencatat, "Terdapat penerbangan panjang ke Bali, dilanjutkan penerbangan domestik ke Pulau Sumba. Setelah mendarat, (kami masih harus berada) satu setengah jam di belakang jip safari yang berkelok-kelok melalui sawah bertumpuk dan desa-desa dengan gubuk beratap jerami."

* Fakta atau Hoaks? Untuk mengetahui kebenaran informasi yang beredar, silakan WhatsApp ke nomor Cek Fakta Liputan6.com 0811 9787 670 hanya dengan ketik kata kunci yang diinginkan.

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Where to go in 2024: The best places to visit

Editor’s note: Sign up for Unlocking the World, CNN Travel’s weekly newsletter . Get news about destinations, plus the latest in aviation, food and drink, and where to stay.

So many places to see in the world. So many people eager to see them.

International tourism reached about 90% of pre-pandemic levels in 2023, and the United States issued a record number of  passports . And if you visited any popular destination over the summer, you’d probably argue it was more crowded than ever.

So maybe it’s time to look at places that are still largely undiscovered, or alluring in the offseason, or frequently overlooked for their larger first cities or neighbors. Maybe it’s time to head to places that are making it easier for tourists to visit and those that pay close attention to encouraging tourism that’s sustainable.

With those things in mind, CNN Travel chose 24 places to consider as you make your 2024 plans:

Sumba, Indonesia

For those looking for a beach destination that prioritizes community consciousness and sustainability, the Indonesian island of Sumba delivers.

With its remote villages, untouched forests, ancient rituals and world-class surf breaks, Sumba is the perfect antidote to the crowds of Bali, which is just an hour’s flight away. It might not be internationally famous yet, but that doesn’t mean it’s small. Sumba is more than 4,000 square miles in size (more than 10,000 square kilometers) – twice the size of Bali.

It was the  Nihi Sumba  resort that brought this island into luxury seekers’ sights when it first opened in 2012. More than a decade on, Sumba has welcomed several new luxury eco-resorts. These include  The Sanubari,  a series of beachfront villas that opened in 2022, and  Cap Karoso , located on the island’s southwest.  —Karla Cripps

Turkey’s Black Sea coast

Far less known than the Mediterranean yacht-magnet resorts of Turkey’s Turquoise Coast, the  Black Sea region, also known as Karadeniz,  offers a very different side of the country. Less touristed and with a cooler, damper climate that produces verdant scenery and  delicious black tea , the region has historic towns and villages as well as beaches and adrenaline-producing activities.

In summer, it’s a refreshing escape from Turkey’s more sweltering regions. Visitors can explore ancient streets that still echo to the clang of blacksmith hammers in Safranbolu, soak up beach life in Amasra and climb to where one of the world’s oldest monasteries clings to a cliff at Sumela.

For thrill-seekers, there’s white water rafting, and when winter brings heavy snowfalls, the region’s eastern Kaçkar Mountains transform into a  heli-skiing paradise .  —Barry Neild

Tartu, Estonia

Pucker up. Tartu, in southern Estonia, has been named a European Capital of Culture for 2024 — with  special attention paid to kissing . One of this university city’s most celebrated sights is its statue of two students locked in a passionate embrace, but here in the “City of Good Thoughts,” the love-in is more high-minded than carnal.

Tartu is renowned as Estonia’s intellectual center, home to its oldest university as well as the must-visit Estonian National Museum and the impressive Science Centre AHHAA, the largest science museum in the Baltics.

The Old Town is the perfect place to base yourself, but just north of the city center on the banks of the Emajõgi River, Supilinn (“Soup Town”) is also worth a visit. This historic neighborhood filled with pretty, wooden houses was formerly a slum but is now becoming one of the city’s most desirable addresses.  —Maureen O’Hare

Tainan, Taiwan

Celebrating its 400th anniversary in 2024, Tainan has become a Taiwan hotspot on the international stage. This southern city has surpassed the capital, Taipei, to boast the highest overall hotel occupancy rate in Taiwan in the past two years.

What makes it so special? Tainan is considered the street food capital of Taiwan and is loved for its beef soups and oyster omelets, otherworldly natural landscapes (check out Tsao Shan Moon World), scenic sunsets over salt farms, colorful old temples and cool new museums.

It was also listed among Booking.com’s top 10 sustainable tourism destinations in 2023.  —Maggie Hiufu Wong

Northwest Michigan

Refreshing, unsalty Lake Michigan lures boatloads of tourists in summer, but the shoreline, quaint towns and rolling countryside of Northwest Michigan have plenty to offer year-round.

On Grand Traverse Bay, Traverse City makes a great home base for exploring wineries on the Old Mission and Leelanau peninsulas or picking cherries or apples in season. Then fall’s foliage is ripe for peeping, followed by winter’s inviting blankets of snow.

From Traverse City, the scenic M-22 highway winds up the Leelanau Peninsula and hooks back down through Leland, home to a  historic fishing village  and a collection of interesting  shops and galleries .

Glen Arbor is another town worth perusing on the way to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore , where off M-109 an all-sand, 3.5-mile hike over massive dunes to the Great Lake and back preps hardy hikers for a delicious dinner.

Farm Club , a farm-restaurant hybrid seven miles from downtown Traverse City, serves beautifully prepared dishes showcasing the region’s ingredients — many grown on site — in a minimalist, barnlike space that spills outdoors.  —Marnie Hunter

Trans Dinarica Cycle Route, Balkans

Launching in 2024, the Trans Dinarica Cycle Route will be the first and only bike route to link all eight countries of the Western Balkans. The 100-stage trail is designed for cyclists of all abilities and its 4,000 kilometers (2,485 miles) is made up of quiet asphalt roads, forest trails and bike paths.

Riders can enjoy Albania and Croatia’s spectacular coastlines, Kosovo’s national parks, Montenegro’s rugged mountains and lush woodland and sparkling rivers throughout Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, North Macedonia and Serbia.

Riders can get more information and sign up for news of route updates, maps, accommodation and services at  transdinarica.com .   —MO

Culebra, Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico is large and makes for a great island escape. But what if you want an escape from your great island escape? That’s where little Culebra comes in. It’s about 20 miles (32 kilometers) off the eastern coast of Puerto Rico and world away from  San Juan’s noisy, rum-soaked nightlife .

The emphasis here is on outdoor activities and unwinding. Be sure to check out  Flamenco Beach , curving for about a mile around a sheltered bay. It has little in the way of waves, making it a superb spot for snorkeling and swimming. And a graffitied tank — a US military relic — offers a striking photo op.

Much of the island is  a natural refuge , and you can also go hiking, snorkeling, scuba diving, kayaking and fishing. Take  a day trip  or  stay over  and make it your main destination.  —Forrest Brown

This southern African nation is trying hard to make a break on the tourism scene, having recently introduced a  quick-approval tourism e-visa . While major tourism infrastructure might not be up to speed yet, it’s a chance to explore a country still off the travel radar.

The capital of Luanda has a reputation as a pricey party city, but out in the wide-open spaces beyond, Angola has some jaw-droppingly spectacular scenery and cultural treats. Second city  Lubango  offers Portuguese colonial architecture, an impressive Rio-style Christ the King hilltop statue and access to the Tundavala Gap, a giddying plunge from cool tablelands into shimmering dusty plains.

Also worth a look: the dramatic 1,300-foot-wide (396 meters) Calendula Falls and Atlantic coastline surfing paradises such as Barra do Kwanza and Cabo Ledo.  —BN

Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada

Not to be confused with St. John’s, the capital of Newfoundland, Saint John is located in New Brunswick — also on Canada’s east coast. This charming little city is an excellent base from which to enjoy the nearby  Bay of Fundy , famed for having the world’s highest tides.

The city itself is filled with historic architecture, including the  Saint John City Market , a National Historic Site of Canada. Built from 1874 to 1876, it’s filled with shops and food venues. A five-minute walk away is the  Saint John Arts Centre . Set in the city’s historic Carnegie Building, it’s the only former Carnegie Library in eastern Canada.

In terms of accommodation, there are seaside cottages, hotels, motels, campgrounds, historic inns and B&Bs. Food here is as excellent as you’d expect from a maritime city in Canada, with a broad range from cheap eats to fine dining.  —KC

South Korea

With word that “Squid Game” — still the most-watched show on Netflix — is set to return with a new season in 2024, it’s time once again to embrace the K-wave.

Thankfully, travel to the country is easier than ever before. The government is waiving its K-ETA requirement — the electronic travel visa for South Korea — for travelers from  22 countries  till the end of 2024 as part of its Visit Korea Year campaign.

This is a country that truly has it all. After exploring futuristic cities such as Seoul and Busan, the cultural and historic side of old Korea awaits at Andong, dubbed the “Spirit of South Korea,” or the seven cemeteries of the ancient  Gaya Tumuli , newly inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2023.  —MHW

Sandwiched on the Adriatic coast between Greece and Montenegro, it’s astonishing that Albania wasn’t more popular as a beach destination before. But its wallet-friendly prices have seen tourism boom here over the past few years — so much so that in 2023, record numbers of Italians flocked across the Adriatic for their bargain summer breaks.

2024 sees the opening of a new airport at Vlorë, on the coast, which will make those beach trips easier. But there’s far more to Albania than its coast. The country has a rich culture, including Christian and Muslim history, with historical centers in towns such as Berat and Gjirokastër, as well as jaw-dropping mountain landscapes (Theth is the most popular).

In 2023, Albania got Europe’s first wild river national park, around the 168-mile (270-kilometer)  Vjosa River  — or to go really off the beaten track book a self-drive tour with  Drive Albania .  —Julia Buckley

Stretching about 2,700 miles from top to toe, long and slim Chile offers a little something for everyone.  In the north, spectacular landscapes simulate  Mars on Earth  in the Atacama Desert, where the 51-room  Our Habitas Atacama  emphasizes sustainability.  The new hotel is a good fit for the “world’s leading green destination,” a title Chile just picked up at the World Travel Awards for the second year in a row.

The natural world puts its best foot forward all over the country: Thousands of miles of Pacific coastline to the west, the towering Andes in the east and lakes, volcanoes and wild Patagonia in the south.

World-class skiing in July and August — a welcome break from the sweltering Northern Hemisphere — is two hours or less from the capital, Santiago. And the new high-altitude Parque Nacional Glaciares near the city protects land in the country’s most populous and  historically little-protected  area.  —MH

Abrolhos Islands, Western Australia

Every year there’s another installment in the soap opera surrounding the Great Barrier Reef — will it be de-listed by UNESCO? Has the coral regrowth gone well this season?

For tourists who’d rather not wade into the situation, there’s another way to experience some of Australia’s gorgeous underwater bounty. About 37 miles (60 kilometers) off the coast of Western Australia, the lesser-known  Abrolhos Islands  are home to some of the most beautiful scenery of the country’s Coral Coast, above and below the water.

Humpback whales pass through in the Southern Hemisphere’s winter, and lucky travelers may catch a glimpse of Australian Sea Lions. There are no hotels on the islands, so intrepid visitors can either overnight in the town of Geraldton or splash out for a liveaboard boat, which provides opportunities to watch brilliant sunsets over the Indian Ocean and scuba dive in the early hours when the fish are at their most active.  —Lilit Marcus

Macedonia, Greece

Athens and the islands get more crowded every year, but in northern Greece, the region of Macedonia is relatively free from overtourism. Yet it has everything visitors flock elsewhere in Greece to see: archaeological sites, history-rich towns and beaches galore.

This was the land of Alexander the Great. His father, Philip II of Macedon, is buried at Vergina, where his tomb has been turned into a world-class  subterranean museum  displaying the finds. Nearby, there are Byzantine remains in the hilltop city Veria, and superb wineries such as  Kir-Yianni  in the rolling hills around Naousa.

Thessaloniki — the region’s capital and Greece’s second city — is a gastro hub as well as a mishmash of architectural and archaeological eras. Near the city are the sandy beaches of Halkidiki; toward the border with Thrace are archaeological spots like ancient Philippi, and the city of Kavala, whose Ottoman past shows in every building . —JB

It may be most famous for the engineering marvel that is the Panama Canal, but this Central American country is so much more than a transit destination.

Not only does Panama have a vibrant capital city with a historic old quarter that’s listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the country also holds over a dozen national parks, including Parque Nacional Volcán Barú, the highest point in Panama.

Panama City is also the only world capital with a tropical rainforest within its city limits. Visitors keen to delve further into Panama’s cultural landscape in a sustainable way can book community-based tourist adventures through a digital portal called  SOSTUR Network , which connects travelers with rural communities and tourism businesses.  —Tamara Hardingham-Gill

Galicia, Spain

Empty beaches bordered by the wild Atlantic Ocean and framed by the rugged landscape of the  Islas Atlánticas National Park . Mouth-watering seafood. And a historic city forever entwined with the famed  Camino de Santiago.  Welcome to Galicia, an autonomous region in the northwest tip of Spain.

Galicia’s regional capital city,  Santiago de Compostela , has long been on the tourist map thanks to its striking 12 th -century cathedral, which is the endpoint for the hundreds of thousands of walkers who  embark on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage  each year. But even if you weren’t planning on packing your walking boots, bustling Santiago should be on your radar.

And for spectacular views, head to  Cabo Fisterra , a rocky peninsula home to the picturesque Finisterre lighthouse. The former lighthouse residence is the  Hotel O Semáforo de Fisterra . Lighthouses are a bit of a theme in Galicia — there are 19 in total, including the UNESCO-protected 1st-century  Tower of Hercules , believed to be the world’s oldest surviving Roman lighthouse.  —Francesca Street

Singapore’s offshore islands

The city-state of Singapore shows urbanism at its finest: biophilic skyscrapers, neon-lit supertrees and six-star hotels all outdoing each other to redefine “luxury.” But venturing off the peninsula is quickly becoming a more interesting option.

Singapore is developing some of its smaller, uninhabited islands by, well, not developing them. Just a ferry ride away from the mainland, Lazarus Island is now home to a few rentable tiny houses made with reconstituted wood and powered by solar energy. Nearby, Sisters’ Island will open the country’s first marine park — including a sea turtle hatchery and coral protection area — in 2024.

Already open for exploring is St. John’s Island, where a 1.7-mile trail highlights native plants and flowers while shining a light on the island’s colorful history, which included a period as a quarantine center during a cholera outbreak. It’s a fitting place to think about life after a pandemic.  —LM

Mérida, Mexico

The Yucatán Peninsula is best known for its tropical beaches, but venture inland, and you’re in for an unexpected urban treat.

“Mérida’s uniqueness comes from a blend of Mayan and colonial heritage,” said David Casanova, who has a  real estate YouTube channel  on Yucatán state’s capital city with his wife, Megan Sequeira Casanova. “The city’s excitement starts with its diverse cuisine and friendly locals and expands to its year-long favorable weather.”

In town, Paseo de Montejo is lined with historic mansions, museums, art galleries and local vendors. The Casanovas tout the city’s boutique hotels, including  Kuka y Naranjo . For nearby getaways, there’s Progreso Beach (less than an hour away), fascinating Mayan ruins and underground water caves called cenotes.

If you’re concerned about personal safety in Mexico, the  US State Department  rates Yucatán and Campache states as the two safest as of December.  —FB

A longtime travel favorite thanks to its diverse landscape and spectacular architecture, Morocco has bounced back determinedly after a devastating earthquake this past September.

While visitors tend to congregate in popular cities such as Marrakech, Rabat and Fes, the country certainly isn’t short of less crowded spots that are arguably just as alluring. Standouts include Tétouan, the city near the first  Regis Hotels and Resorts Morocco property , and the historic Meknes, which is among the country’s nine UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Morocco is proving to be a world leader when it comes to sustainable tourism, with the launch of various initiatives to boost its renewable energy generation. The country is also home to a number of significant eco-friendly hotels, including the Berber-run  Kasbah du Toubkal , located at the base of the spectacular High Atlas Mountains.  —THG

Florida’s freshwater springs

How would you like to immerse in water clear as gin any day of the year? You can do that in some of the 1,000 or more recognized  fresh-water springs  scattered around northern and central Florida.

These  pristine natural pools  provide stable temps and visibility for swimming, tubing, snorkeling, diving, wildlife viewing and more. Here are a few of the best:

Wakulla Springs  has a swimming area in 70 F (21 C) degree water, and the state park offers a boat ride tour. The  depth at the vent  is about 185 feet (56 meters).  Rainbow Springs  is considered one of the most beautiful in the state.  Ginnie Springs , a privately owned site, is renowned for its diving and cavern.  —FB

Texas Hill Country

In the heart of Texas, Hill Country boasts its own natural springs. One prime spot,  Krause Springs  in Spicewood, lures visitors with more than its spring-fed pool and natural swimming hole — there’s also a butterfly garden full of magical wind chimes. And the  Blue Bonnet Cafe  — home to some of the world’s most divine cream pies — is just a short drive away in Marble Falls .

Meanderers will also find rolling hills and hiking trails, winding rivers,  wineries , barbecue, music and dance halls, plus an explosion of wildflowers in March and April. And in 2024, April also brings a celestial spectacle to Hill Country — the total solar eclipse on April 8.

Gruene Hall  in New Braunfels is legendary among Texas’  historic dance halls , and Luckenbach, a tiny hamlet outside the larger German-influenced town of Fredericksburg, has a dance hall and regular pickers’ circles under the oak trees.  —MH

One of the smaller and lesser-known emirates of the United Arab Emirates, Fujairah is as mellow as it is beautiful. Filled with spectacular mountain ranges and pristine beaches, it’s significantly less developed than the likes of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, offering an authentic and tranquil vibe that’s hard to beat.

Fujairah has a cooler climate compared with the other emirates because of its mountainous setting, but the winter months are definitely the most pleasant time to visit.

Snoopy Island, a snorkeling spot that looks like the famous cartoon dog lying on his back, is a top draw thanks to its crystal-clear waters and coral reefs, while the cascading waterfalls of the Wadi Wurayah National Park are another must-see.  —THG

The jaw-dropping landscapes of Greenland — an autonomous territory of Denmark situated northeast of Canada — are set to get a little more accessible for international travelers this year.

New international airports are opening in Greenland’s capital, Nuuk, and the coastal city of Ilulissat. These aviation hubs promise longer runways that will be able to handle larger commercial aircraft. The climate crisis is a visible, real threat in Greenland, and investment in the tourism sphere is increasing as changing climates  pose roadblocks to traditional industries.

Learn more about how Greeenland is adapting, and the stories of the Inuit people who’ve lived in the region for thousands of years at the  Icefjord Centre  in Ilulissat on the West Coast. Colorful Ilulissat is also home to the UNESCO-listed Ilulissat Icefjord, which offers the staggering sight of a bay filled with floating icebergs. In general, nature is the main event in Greenland, with other highlights including whale watching, dog sledding and Aurora Borealis sightings.   —FS

Before the pandemic, Uzbekistan was poised to be the  next big thing  in travel thanks to a series of ambitious reforms to transform the country into a world-class destination.

Now, its time has finally come.

Offering visa-free access to citizens of 86 countries, Uzbekistan’s untouched landscapes and well-preserved architecture are ready and waiting to awe visitors.

For greater insights into Uzbekistan’s position at the heart of the fabled Silk Road, a historic trade route that ran from China and India to the Mediterranean, the cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva await. Meanwhile, the mountainous Uzbek village of Sentob — about 3.5 hours from Samarkand — was added to UNESCO’s list of “ Best Tourism Villages ” in 2023. It’s been cited for its commitment to sustainable development, with a focus on nature, organic food and eco and mountain tourism.

Getting around the country is easy thanks to the high-speed Afrosiyob Express train, connecting capital Tashkent with Samarkand and Bukhara.  —KC

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All beaches are public space, Sandiaga tells hotels

A viral video of an argument over public access to Sumba waters has prompted the tourism minister to cite a presidential regulation clearly stipulated that all beaches and waters are public space.

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ourism and Creative Economy Minister Sandiaga Uno has reiterated that hotels do not own and cannot own beaches and waters adjacent to their property, stressing that such areas are public space.

Sandiaga made the remark in response to a viral video appearing to show a hotel employee prohibiting a local resident from surfing near the property in Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara.

“[Beaches] are a public space. We need to underline that investors must pay heed to the rules for coastlines,” the minister told a press briefing on Monday.

The video clip was uploaded on May 24 to the TikTok account of Ishak maja ( @ishakmaja20 ) with the caption: “Is it reasonable for us local people to be prohibited from surfing at our own island?”

It has since received more than 22,000 likes and over 1,200 comments.

The 2-minute clip shows an argument at sea between what appear to be hotel workers on a dinghy and a surfer about the public’s right to access the water adjacent to the hotel.

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One woman, presumably a hotel representative, insists that the surfer must leave because the water is deemed as a “utilization area”, but the surfer maintains they have “no right to prohibit” him from entering the water.

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