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Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Outer Hebrides

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Picture pristine white sand beaches, mystical stone monuments, quiet roads through lochs and inlets, and wild waves crashing on a lighthouse. A colony of inquisitive puffins, distant ferries sailing by, and peaceful crofts and farmland with plentiful sheep. An icy cold wind reminds you that you’re on the far edge of Scotland. Welcome to the Outer Hebrides.

Absolute Escapes are award-winning specialists in self-drive holidays in Scotland , and we love the opportunity to use our knowledge and experience to design the perfect, bespoke holiday for our clients.

The Outer Hebrides is a destination close to our hearts and we’re delighted to share a bit of our first-hand knowledge. Read on to find out all you’ve ever wanted to know about visiting Scotland’s spectacular western islands.

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General FAQs:

Where are the Outer Hebrides?

What is the history of the outer hebrides, what’s the weather like in the outer hebrides, when is the best time to visit the outer hebrides, what’s the largest island in the outer hebrides.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides:

Do ferries sail to the Outer Hebrides?

Are there flights to the outer hebrides, how do i get from edinburgh or glasgow to the outer hebrides, how do i get from london to the outer hebrides.

Staying on the Outer Hebrides:

What kind of accommodation is in the Outer Hebrides?

Are there luxury hotels in the outer hebrides, what are the best places to stay in the outer hebrides.

Touring the Outer Hebrides:

What are the best things to do in the Outer Hebrides?

Are there good walking opportunities in the outer hebrides, where are the best beaches in the outer hebrides, what are the best boat trips in the outer hebrides, how do i visit st kilda, are there escorted tours of the outer hebrides, are there midges in the outer hebrides, how do i book a holiday to the outer hebrides.

The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, are a chain of remote islands located off the northwest coast of Scotland.

The main islands that form this archipelago include Lewis and Harris (two ‘islands’ connected by land), North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra. However, there are as many as ten more islands connected or attached to the main islands!

Tiny islands such as Berneray and Vatersay act as a link in the chain and are equally worth exploring, despite their small size.

The Outer Hebrides have been inhabited since Mesolithic times, and there is a range of fascinating prehistoric archaeological sites to discover. The most famous of these is the ancient Neolithic Calanais Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis, which resembles its better-known younger cousin Stonehenge in England.

Also on Lewis you’ll find Dun Carloway – one of the best-preserved brochs in the country.

In addition to Neolithic stone structures, there are many other historic sites and interesting archaeological finds that reveal the fascinating history of the islands, from Medieval churches to mummy remains in the Cladh Hallan Roundhouses!

Celtic roots run deep within these island communities and Gaelic is an important aspect of life in the Outer Hebrides. Islanders are proud of their Celtic heritage, and this is reflected in the rich arts and music culture that stems from the islands.

Gaelic is still widely spoken and popular crafts such as Harris Tweed and Celtic jewellery are still handmade using traditional methods.

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With their soft white sand and clear turquoise waters, picture-postcard images of beaches in the Outer Hebrides might transport you to the Caribbean. However, you are far from the Caribbean warmth!

The weather in the Outer Hebrides is much the same as in the rest of the west coast of Scotland – a bit chilly, a bit windy, and maybe a little wet at times.

While lovely sunny days do exist, it is always worth being prepared to face the elements. A light waterproof jacket, boots and layers are your best companion on an island-hopping adventure .

Although, make sure you don’t forget your swimming costume (or wetsuit perhaps!).

The Outer Hebrides are a very popular destination with limited accommodation on offer, so it’s always worth booking well in advance.

High summer months such as July and August tend to be the busiest, while May, June and September are great alternatives when the weather might be drier.

Summer days in the Outer Hebrides are long, giving you more opportunities to make the most of your trip and enjoy all that the islands have to offer.

Lewis & Harris is the largest island in the Outer Hebrides, where most of the population lives. Stornoway on Lewis is the main town and commercial centre of the islands, home to approximately 8,000 people.

If you have limited time to visit the islands, then Stornoway or Tarbert in Harris might the best bases for you to explore much of the islands and do a couple of day trips.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides

There are various ways to travel to the Outer Hebrides, but if you wish to explore the whole chain, then multiple ferry rides are involved.

From the Scottish mainland, you can travel to Barra from Oban, to North Uist from Skye (which is connected to the mainland by the Skye Bridge), or to Stornoway from Ullapool.

While there are daily sailings available, these are limited to once or twice per day, so booking in advance is important if you are taking a car on the ferry. You can pre-book your journeys on the Calmac website.

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Flying to the Outer Hebrides is also a tempting option as the flight to the Isle of Barra is an incredibly scenic and exciting trip! Barra Airport is unique as it is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach.

Direct flights are available from most Scottish airports to Barra, Lewis and Benbecula. Trips are typically under an hour, so travelling by air can be quicker than travelling by ferry, but often more expensive and less environmentally friendly. You can check flight times and plan your journey on the Skyscanner website.

From Edinburgh or Glasgow, you can either fly to Stornoway and/or Barra. While this might save you some time, the drive to the west coast of Scotland is spectacular and, in our opinion, unmissable.

We would recommend driving to Oban, following the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, and traversing across wild Argyll towards the coast.

If you prefer to start your island-hopping itinerary from the north to travel south, then travelling north across the Scottish Highlands to Ullapool will take a little longer. In this case, we would suggest splitting your journey by spending an additional night en route.

As there are no direct flights from London to the Outer Hebrides, we would recommend travelling to Edinburgh or Glasgow and making your way to the Outer Hebrides from there.

Staying on the Outer Hebrides

There is a range of lovely places to stay dotted all around in the Outer Hebrides. For our self-drive packages, we will normally try to secure accommodation in a larger town or village with various amenities, such and Stornoway or Tarbert.

However, there are some special places to stay in more remote areas, which are absolutely worth a short drive.

Proper luxury in the form of a 5* hotel is not available in the Outer Hebrides, but there are some truly spectacular and unique places to stay.

Scarista House in Harris is a very popular destination – an elegant yet rustic B&B and fine dining restaurant with lovely rooms featuring spectacular views towards the sea and nearby hills.

Another wonderful place to stay is Broad Bay House on the Isle of Lewis. Owners Sue and Tom offer a warm welcome to their beautiful 5* guest house which offers panoramic sea views, comfortable rooms, and some of the best local produce from the islands.

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Scarista House and Broad Bay House are undoubtedly two of the best places to stay on the islands. However, we also work with a range of accommodation in our Budget and Standard categories, which offer good food, comfort and an all-round unforgettable experience.

For example, the small Heathbank Hotel in Barra has a great restaurant featuring some of the freshest seafood in the country, while Beul Na Mara in Harris sits near the specular Luskentyre Beach and offers clean, bright and airy rooms.

Langass Lodge in North Uist is one of our top choices of Premium accommodation and another great place to stay; this former hunting lodge overlooks Loch Eport and its kitchen serves modern Scottish cuisine featuring fresh island ingredients.

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Touring the Outer Hebrides

Have we mentioned heading to the beach yet? In addition to the many stunning beaches on the islands, there are plenty of other great activities on offer.

History fans will enjoy exploring Lews Castle in Stornoway; a Victorian Baronial mansion, or visiting the brooding ruins of Kisimul Castle in Barra.

The 5,000-year-old Calanais Standing Stones are a must for all visitors to Lewis (including Outlander fans!), while Gearrannan Blackhouse Village is a short drive from Callanish. Here, you can learn about traditional Hebridean blackhouses with their drystone walls and picturesque thatched roofs.

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For those interested in wildlife and the outdoors, there are endless opportunities for walking, cycling, and sea kayaking on the islands. The Hebridean Whale Trail follows the best places in the Outer Hebrides to spot cetaceans, such as porpoises, orca whales, minke whales, as well as basking sharks and dolphins.

The Bird of Prey Trail spans the whole island chain and features location markers for the best places to see birds of prey, such as golden eagles, hen harriers and short-eared owls.

Inspired by stunning scenery and rich Celtic heritage, the Outer Hebrides are also home to some of the finest arts and crafts in the world. If it is a cultural experience that you are seeking, visit Sgeulachd a Chlò Mhòir – the official ‘Story Room’ of the Harris Tweed Authority. Harris Tweed is a luxurious wool fabric, exclusively handwoven in the Western Isles and you can find it in the many craft and gift shops in the islands. The art centres An Lanntair in Stornoway and Taigh Chearsabhagh in North Uist also host inspiring exhibitions, theatre and music events.

For those interested in whisky and gin, you might want to pop by the Isle of Harris Distillery which sits on the shores of East Loch Tarbert. While their whisky is still maturing, you can buy a bottle of the lovely Isle of Harris Gin, infused with sugar kelp.

Yes! The Outer Hebrides are a walker’s paradise, with magnificent beaches peacefully stretching for miles on end. The Hebridean Way is a long-distance route spanning nearly 200 miles across 10 breathtaking islands. It is very popular not only with walkers but with cyclists too.

For hillwalkers, there are also some mountain ranges in Harris. To the north, there is the most extensive and highest range of mountains in the Outer Hebrides—a wild conglomeration of ridges, glens and summits. Clisham (or An Cliseam) is the highest mountain at 799 metres high and it is the archipelago’s only Corbett. Further hillwalking opportunities are available in Lewis and South Uist.

If you are interested in learning more, you might wish to purchase a Pocket Mountains guidebook for walking on the islands. We would also recommend visiting our friends at Walkhighlands for inspiration on trickier routes and to help you plan your walks.

The spectacular coastline in the Western Isles is one of the main reasons the archipelago is such as popular tourist destination. The Outer Hebrides have a restorative quality, with endless quiet beaches, an invigorating sea breeze, and the relaxing scent of machair and wildflowers.

Often rated as some of the top beaches in the world, Luskentyre Beach in Harris and Uig Sands in Lewis are undoubtedly two of the most spectacular beaches on the islands.

There are many other tranquil beaches to explore such as Vatersay Bay; the small island of Vatersay is linked by causeway to Barra and boats a stunning sandy bay and a wide expanse of dunes.

Eriskay is another small island connected to South Uist by a causeway and it is host to the beautiful Coileag a’ Prionnnsa beach.

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As well as the trip to St Kilda (see below), Seatrek , which is based in Lewis, offers unforgettable boat trips around the Uig coastline.

Kilda Cruises also offer shorter trips off the coast of Harris, including fishing trips and excursions to the Shiant Isles.

St Kilda is one of the most unique and spectacular places one could visit in the world. This uninhabited isolated archipelago with rugged sea cliffs and impressive sea-stacks towers out of the wild Atlantic Ocean.

It is home to nearly one million seabirds, including the largest colony of Atlantic puffins in the UK. It is also one of the only dual UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world. It is remote. It is wild. It is breathtaking.

A trip to St Kilda is certainly worth it, but not easy. It takes approximately 2.5 to 3 hours to sail to St Kilda each way from the Isle of Harris. Boat trips are available from Leverburgh with Kilda Cruises and Sea Harris , and booking well in advance is essential.

As these trips are often disrupted by the weather, our recommendation would be to spend at least three nights in Harris and book the trip on day two, so if the trip needs to be rescheduled, you can try again the following day.

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Our friends at Rabbie’s Tours offer escorted tours to the Outer Hebrides departing from Edinburgh and Inverness. Rabbie’s are an award-winning company whose expert guides truly take you beyond the guidebooks to explore the stunning scenery and extraordinary history of this country.

Explore the islands in a modern, air-conditioned mini-coach touring with a maximum of 16 passengers. Please get in touch if you are interested in an escorted tour. Rabbie’s will do the guiding, and with our expert knowledge, we’ll make sure you stay in the best accommodation on each island.

Midges are small biting insects and they can indeed be a pest. The good news is that they tend to not be too much of a problem in the Outer Hebrides as there is usually a bit of a sea breeze to keep them away.

Midges like cool, overcast days, and don’t like direct sunlight or wind. You might want to “smidge-up” if you are spending some time on the west coast upon your return from the islands though, particularly during high summer. Smidge is available almost everywhere in the Scottish Highlands, but we also recommend Avon Skin So Soft which is incredibly effective.

Our Hebridean Island Hopping itinerary is one of our most popular self-drive holidays in Scotland, but we can also create a bespoke itinerary based on your interests and requirements.

Please don’t hesitate to get in touch with our expert team if we can help you plan an unforgettable Hebridean escape!

Katia Fernandez Mayo

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The Outer Hebrides

The Outer Hebrides stretch for 130 miles and look out on their western side to the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on the very edge of Europe, Scotland’s Outer Hebrides offer a striking mix of landscapes. Heather-backed mountains overlook windswept golden sands, with dense areas of peat bog in between. Of the two hundred plus islands that make up the archipelago, only a handful are actually inhabited.

Lewis and Harris form the northernmost island in the Outer Hebrides. Though they are actually part of the same land mass, they are thought of as different islands and each has its own distinctive culture, traditions and heritage.

Lewis in the north is the largest island in the group and its main town of Stornoway is a busy centre of island life. Its natural harbour is a thriving fishing port.  Harris is home to the world-famous Harris Tweed, which must be made on the islands to carry the name. Across a narrow isthmus from the more mountainous North Harris lies South Harris, with its wide beaches of golden sand trimming the Atlantic. 

Find out more about Lewis, Harris and Stornoway

Further south still sit a string of small, flatter islands including North Uist , Benbecula , South Uist and Barra . Here stunning, breezy beaches are mostly bordered by a lower range of hills to the east. Uniquely, one of the beaches on Barra also doubles as a landing strip for flights from the mainland. It’s considered to be the only beach runway in the world to handle scheduled airline services.

Lying west offshore into the Atlantic, the remarkable deserted island of St Kilda is a dual World Heritage Site and a major attraction thanks to its amazing birdlife and fascinating history. The island can only be reached by day boat, which is subject to weather conditions and the permission of its owners, the National Trust for Scotland. 

The Outer Hebrides remain a heartland of Gaelic culture , with the language spoken by over half of the islanders. The Celtic roots of the islands have permeated through to the arts created in this place, with traditional crafts and Celtic music still very much at the heart of Outer Hebridean culture.

The famous Calanais Standing Stone s on the Isle of Lewis are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the islands’ rich historical legacy. Dun Carloway , which is also on Lewis, is an Iron Age broch that stands at nearly seven metres tall and is around 2,000 years old.

Religion has long played an important role on these islands, with churches and church ruins dotted across the landscapes.

The landscapes of the Outer Hebrides makes it ideal for walking and cycling while the superb Atlantic beaches draw surfers from around the globe. Fishing for salmon and trout, as well as sea angling, is also highly popular. The clear Hebridean waters produce some of the best seafood in the UK. 

Golden eagles, white-tailed eagles and corncrakes are just some of the amazing birdlife that you might spot from these islands, which are considered to be amongst the best bird-watching locations in Europe.

There are an estimated 4,000 red deer living on Lewis and Harris, so your chances of spotting one is pretty high, and the Outer Hebrides is also considered to be one of the best places in Europe to spot the European otter . Off the coast the marine life is pretty spectacular too, with porpoises, orca whales, minke whales and basking sharks all swimming off shore.

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The ultimate guide to Scotland's magical Hebrides islands

Aug 10, 2022 • 12 min read

Crossing a river near the Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye © Leon Harris/Getty Images

An emerald shore receding behind, a sea breeze in your face, a dolphin surfing the bow wave as escort. The magic begins as soon as you board the ferry from Scotland’s rugged west coast and head for Scotland 's Hebrides islands. 

This scattering of more than 50 inhabited and uninhabited islands, islets and skerries is like a world unto itself – thrillingly isolated, wind-battered, sea-smashed  and with a beauty that is off the charts. From the ragged mountains of Skye to the snow-white beaches and cerulean seas of Harris, the mysterious standing stones of Lewis to the whisky heaven of Islay, these islands lift spirits in every possible sense of the expression.

Some of Europe’s most alluring beaches are on these Scottish islands (but you’ll need to be made of stern stuff to brave the waters and don’t expect to return home with a tan), while remoteness and underpopulation mean that wildlife displaced elsewhere still flourishes. You’re almost guaranteed to see seals and whales; otters, dolphins and porpoises are also regularly sighted.  Seabirds – gannets, fulmars, puffins and more – thrive on jagged coasts, and geese of various species often outnumber residents. That very same isolation – Edinburgh seems another world, and London is outside the Hebridean solar system – means that life has traditionally been a tough, self-reliant affair.

Visiting the Hebrides is about being outdoors. Throughout the islands, there’s great walking, from pacing the sublime sandy beaches of Barra, Tiree or Harris to tackling the rugged challenge of Skye’s Cuillin Hills or the Paps on Jura. To get out on the water, sea-kayaking is a great option on Barra, Skye and other islands. Bicycles are easily taken on ferries, though high winds can make for tough pedaling at times. So lace up the hiking boots, grab binoculars or a paddle, fortify yourself with a local dram and throw yourself into the wilds no matter what hand the weather deals you.

Visit Islay & Jura to try some of the world’s best whiskies

Mellow, relaxed and so friendly that even passing strangers stop for a wee chat, Islay (‘eye-la’) is the home of several of the world’s best whiskies – many famed for their peatiness – whose names reverberate on the tongue like a pantheon of Celtic deities: Ardbeg, Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Caol Ila, Bunnahabhain, Kilchoman, Bruichladdich, Bowmore. 

Wilder and more rugged, the adjacent island of Jura likes long, dark and low off the coast like a Viking longship and provides a tremendous hit of scenery, with its brooding twin hills, the Paps, providing habitat for an enormous deer population. The ferocious Corryvreckan whirlpool churns away at the north of the island, near where George Orwell wrote 1984. The author summed it up neatly as “a very un-get-at-able place”. 

What to do 

Top billing goes to the distilleries on Islay and Jura, which have whisky enthusiasts in raptures, among them Ardbeg , with its magnificent 10-year-old, Bowmore , which malts its own barley, Laphroig, where you can taste famously peaty whiskies, and the Isle of Jura Distillery . All welcome visitors and run tours and tastings. More expensive tours throw in more malts and take you further behind the scenes. It’s worth booking in advance online or by calling ahead.

Cracking seafood (langoustines and crabs fresh off the boat, hand-dived scallops, and tasty mussels and oysters), days spent roaming machair-fringed bays lapped by turquoise seas and brilliant wildlife watching (keep an eye out for grey seals, white-tailed sea eagles, barnacle geese and otters) ramp up Islay’s appeal beyond the dram. Hop on Islay Sea Safaris to spot all of Islay and Jura’s distilleries in a single day. Their customized tours from Port Ellen also include birdwatching trips and visits to Jura’s remote west coast and the Corryvreckan whirlpool, one of the most notorious tidal whirlpools in the world.

Where to stay

Accommodation is like gold dust on Islay and Jura for the number of visitors they receive in spring and summer, so always book ahead. Get the best of Islay seafood and whisky, as well as seriously comfortable Victorian accommodation, at the Port Charlotte Hotel , or camp or stay in a self-catering cottage at Kintra Farm amid the dunes at the southern end of Laggan Bay. 

How to get to Islay 

Loganair flies up to three times daily from Glasgow to Islay, and Hebridean Air Services operates twice daily on Thursday from Oban to Colonsay and Islay. There are two ferry terminals: Port Askaig on the east coast, and Port Ellen in the south. Ferries are run by CalMac .

A car ferry shuttles between Port Askaig on Islay and Feolin on Jura. There is no direct car-ferry connection to the mainland. From April to September, Jura Passenger Ferry runs from Tayvallich on the mainland to Craighouse on Jura.

Islay & Jura might be for you if: You’re a fan of whisky and wilderness.

Islay & Jura might not be for you if: You’re looking for serious mountains.

Find mountain drama and holy marvels on Mull and Iona

All of the islands are ravishing, but Mull really hits the scenic high notes, with wild mountains and spectacularly eroded dropping abruptly to startlingly turquoise waters. From great crags of black basalt to blindingly white sands, this is an island for slowing the pace for a spell and wholeheartedly embracing nature. 

Birds of prey glide above the highest peaks, otters can be spotted along the shore, while the west coast is good for watching whales, dolphins and porpoises. You’ll for sure see seals, too, both the Atlantic gray (look for its Roman nose) and the common seal (recognizable by its doggy face). 

What do do 

Mull’s characterful main town, Tobermory, is an instant heart-stealer, with its row of colorful houses, Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust spotlighting local marine life, bijou distillery , excellent restaurant serving sustainable seafood and good old-fashioned pub , near the pier on the harbourfront. Even here, the focus is on the wild outdoors, with hillwalking, whale-watching excursions and boat trips to weird Fingal’s Cave, a 60m-deep chasm of hexagonal pillars, on uninhabited Staffa .

If you’re up for more, you could clamber up 966m Ben More , Mull’s highest peak, and the only island Munro outside Skye, for stirring views out across the islands. Or grab your hiking boots for the adventurous eight-mile return stomp to the phenomenal rock formations of the Carsaig Arches at Malcom’s Point. 

A five-minute ferry ride from Fionnphort on Mull, the holy island of Iona weaves its own spell. St Columba sailed from Ireland and landed here in 563, establishing a monastic community with the aim of Christianizing Scotland. Its scriptorium produced some of the most important illuminated manuscripts of the period, including, allegedly, the Book of Kells now in Dublin’s Trinity College. Dotted with majestic stone crosses and monastic ruins, this emerald teardrop of an island is now a place for solitude seekers and pilgrims. The heavily restored abbey is the island’s spiritual heart.

Where to stay 

There’s plenty of charming places to stay on Mull, from back-to-nature campsites to B&Bs and luxurious small hotels. For something fancier, Highland Cottage in Tobermory is enchantingly intimate, with antique-filled rooms and a hearty welcome. On a working sheep croft at Iona’s northern tip, the Green Shed is lovely, with eco-friendly self-catering digs decorated with flair and upcycled furniture and riveting sea views.  

How to get to Mull

CalMac has three car ferries that link Mull with the mainland: Oban to Craignure (the busiest route), Lochaline to Fishnish and  Tobermory to Kilchoan.

Mull & Iona might be for you if: You love wildlife, mountains and ancient abbeys.

Mull & Iona might not be for you if: You want to just rock up without booking ahead.

Getting a natural high on the Isle of Skye

The Vikings called it sky-a, or ‘cloud island’, in old Norse, alluding to the clouds that often hovered above the menacing Cuillin Hills, which entice hardcore hikers and mountaineers with some of Scotland’s gnarliest peaks and dizzying views. But even seen from ground level, the Isle of Skye is just stunning. An ethereal light squeezes through the clouds and bathes a rugged splendor that stretches across heather-brushed moors, glittering lochs and sea cliffs razoring above pounding surf. 

Skye delivers the kind of big wilderness for which Scotland is so famous – and all neatly packaged into one island. But it’s no secret, so dodge the biggest crowds (and midges) by visiting in spring or autumn. That said, most visitors stick to Portree, Dunvegan and Trotternish – you can always find peace if you’re willing to venture further afield.

Bring your boots. Hikers are in their element with some of the roughest, toughest and most soul-stirring trails in the country. Ease yourself in gently on short hikes through the remote, boggy, loch-speckled, strikingly beautiful glens of Strath Mor, keeping an eye out for red deer and otters, or on moderately challenging ramble to the Old Man of Storr , an iconic pinnacle of crumbling basalt on the Trotternish Peninsula. Or throw yourself in at the deep end with a pulse-racing, nerve-jangling five-mile trek up 992m Sgùrr Alasdair, the loftiest peak in the Black Cuillin, where dark, fierce fangs of rock punch above the sea. Its summit has sensational views all the way to the isles of Rhum, Eigg and Canna. For rock climbers, the Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pinn) is the Holy Grail. You might need a guide .

The secluded coves and sparkling sea lochs indenting Skye’s coast are best seen with your bum in a kayak and a paddle in your hand, some say. Whitewave Outdoor Centre and Skyak Adventures get you out on the water.

The outdoors is the big draw, for sure, but when the mist descends or the dreich weather blows in, there’s still plenty to do, from castles like mighty Dunvegan on the vast MacLeod Estate to the fascinating Skye Museum of Island Life , zooming in on the island’s crofting heritage, and jolly pubs where you can shelter from the drizzle with a pint.  

Skye is insanely popular and accommodation is therefore plentiful, from camping and glamping to backpacker hostels and high-end hotels. Nevertheless, you should book ahead. Harborside Portree is Skye’s largest and liveliest town, with options ranging from simple, homely B&Bs to the luxe Cuillin Hills Hotel , with broad views out to sea and up to the mountains. 

Housed in the old village school, Skyewalker Hostel in Minginish has a cool mix of rooms, glamping huts and a glass-domed outdoor seating area. 

How to get to Skye

Skye became permanently tethered to the Scottish mainland when the Skye Bridge opened in 1995. The crossing is free. There are buses from Glasgow to Portree and Uig via Crianlarich, Fort William and Kyle of Lochalsh, plus a service from Inverness to Portree. 

Despite the bridge, there are still a couple of ferry links between Skye and the mainland. Ferries also operate from Uig on Skye to the Outer Hebrides. The CalMac ferry between Mallaig and Armadale is very popular on weekends and in July and August. The Glenelg–Skye Ferry runs a tiny vessel (six cars only) on the short Kylerhea to Glenelg crossing.

Skye might be for you if: You are mad about big mountains and hardcore hiking.

Skye might not be for you if: You want to totally escape the crowds.

Give the world the slip in the Outer Hebrides 

When the sun breaks through the clouds on Outer Hebrides (or Western Isles), illuminating the velvet pleats of mountains, bracken-cloaked moors and machair-draped dunes that drop to frost-white sands fizzing into a sea of exquisite turquoise, it’s like witnessing the dawn of creation. Far removed from civilization, there are times you will feel like the last soul on earth here, especially if you come in the hush of spring or autumn. Times when you will forget the century we live in, walking barefoot on mile-long beaches made afresh by the tides, looking for otter footprints, witnessing a fiery sunset after a storm, or foraging for cockles and mussels in rocky bays.

These glorious isles – some just wee specks of rock – are  isolated, windswept, treeless places that have traditionally subsisted on fishing, weaving and livestock, though renewable energy is increasingly big business. You’ll hear the gentle lilt of Scottish Gaelic everywhere here as it’s still a working language.

What to do in the Outer Hebrides

The principal island, its northern half called Lewis and its southern Harris, is a terrific starting point, with out-of-this-world coastal scenery, traditional turf-roofed blackhouses, lonely peat bogs dimpled with lochans and the famous Harris tweed. 

Mountainous and virtually roadless, North Harris is the hiking dream. South Harris by turn beguiles with staggeringly lovely white-sand beaches like Luskentyre and Scarista, swirling into jade waters. They are all the more enchanting for often being deserted.

Heading to the far northern tip of Lewis brings you to the lighthouse-topped Butt of Lewis, battered by the North Atlantic. The hinterland is largely desolate peat moorland, glittering with lochans. The island is littered with mysterious prehistoric sites, most famously the late-Neolithic standing stones of Callanish , weighing in at some four and a half millennia, roughly contemporary with the Great Pyramid of Giza, and Dun Carloway , a 2000-year-old, dry-stone broch.

To the south, the lonely Uist islands are prime nature-watching territory and connected by a causeway, while little Barra offers memorable sea-kayaking and the chance to watch the Glasgow flight land on the beach. 

Where to stay on the Outer Hebrides

Given how remote they are, there’s a surprisingly great assortment of places to stay in the  Outer Hebrides, from basic campsites and hostels to B&Bs, sleek, architect-designed hotels and eco-friendly beach houses. A lot of accommodation swings with the seasons, closing down during the dark, rainy months from October to March. For hostels with a dash of history and incredible views, check out the Gatliff Hebridean Hostels Trust . Or if you fancy staying in a conserved village of traditional blackhouses on the Isle of Lewis, with the crashing Atlantic as your wake-up call, try Gearrannan Holiday Cottages .

How to get to the Outer Hebrides

Loganair flights operate to Stornoway from Edinburgh, Inverness and Glasgow. There are also flights (weekdays only) between Stornoway and Benbecula. There are daily Loganair flights from Glasgow to Barra, and from Monday to Saturday to Benbecula. At Barra, the planes land on the hard-sand beach at low tide, so the schedule depends on the tides. 

There are two or three CalMac ferries a day to Stornoway, one or two a day to Tarbert and Lochmaddy, and one a day to Castlebay and Lochboisdale (always weather permitting – it can get wild out here!).

The Outer Hebrides might be for you if: You love wild scenery, beaches and prehistory.

The Outer Hebrides might not be for you if: You want more action – it’s remote and quiet here.

This article was first published May 20, 2014 and updated Aug 10, 2022.

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• The Outer Hebrides – A Guide to the Isle of Lewis + Harris
• By Lisa Michele Burns

Scotland – The Isle of Lewis and Harris

Wind-swept beaches with teal seas rolling onto pearl coloured shores border these islands in the western waters of Scotland.

Scotland is one of those special parts of the world that feels adventurous from the moment you land on its rich soil. It’s rugged, wild and oh so very charming.

Teletubby-like green hills meet stone cottages, quaint country lanes meander through historic settlements and sheep, well, they’re everywhere. The Outer Hebrides are the epitome of the Scottish dream and it’s here that I want to take you on a little visual journey via a series of images from my time exploring the islands.

The faint sound of bagpipes rings out no matter where you are wandering. It’s not that they’re actually audible, it’s that the wind and landscapes create a tune in your head that’s hard to shake.

Also, as I write this article I need to let you know that I’m dictating it in my head with a thick Scottish accent…it can’t be helped. So, bagpipes, Scottish accent…I hope you’ve got them going, now let’s continue.

Scotland is one of those special parts of the world that feels adventurous from the moment you land on its rich soil. It’s rugged, wild and oh so very charming. From the people to the places you’ll visit, each region of Scotland has its own unique drawcard.

For the Outer Hebrides it’s open spaces and beaches so perfect it’s like they copy and pasted a piece of the Australian coastline. Really, one beach is so similar to Whitehaven that it’s a wonder it never ends up on the best beach lists like it’s Aussie twin does!

While the nearby Isle of Skye is a tourism hot spot, and rightly so, the Outer Hebrides are a welcome relief from crowds, in fact, you’ll be hard pressed to find many people most months of the year and that’s all part of the charm. During the warmer summer months the beautiful beaches will see outdoor enthusiasts and seaside holidaymakers visit in their droves but there’s so much space here that it still feels remote.

Below you’ll find a few photogenic hot spots with sample imagery along with details on how to get to the Isle of Lewis and Harris and where to stay…plus a whole bunch of photos to inspire you to visit this incredible scenic part of the world.

First up as always, a map to the area –

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Photogenic Spots on the Isle of Lewis and Harris

Few places in the world can make you feel so far from it all yet so cosy at the same time. Mangersta is a small farming community on the western coast of Lewis, it’s every ‘Escape to the Country’ viewers dream. Cliffs fall into a sometimes wild and cranky ocean swell, Highland Cows roam the paddocks and friendly dogs greet you when you enter the area.

It gives you that warm fuzzy feeling as soon as you gaze eyes upon the farm cottages and WigWams that dot the hillside.

One of the best things about Mangersta is the Mangersta Bothy which I’ve written about previously. Getting there is a challenge because there’s no fixed hiking trail or sign posts, it’s a mud map adventure and that’s what makes it all the more fun. Keeping it this way ensures it’s not overrun by tourists so just ask a local once you arrive…be respectful of the paddock gates too!

Read more – The Best Bothy in Scotland

Geàrrannan Blackhouse Village

As a restored blackhouse village, you can wander through the village and experience the crofting life…

This was a spot I’d researched before arriving and was somewhere I didn’t want to miss. As a restored blackhouse village, you can wander through the village and experience the crofting life and peek at how the blackhouses are constructed.

The village is located in a gorgeous bay looking over the ocean and coastal landscapes. From the blackhouses you can wander up the hill to capture a view over their thatched rooves and chimneys.

There’s a small entry fee to access the village or if you’re keen to really experience a blackhouse, you can rent one and stay a few nights! More information here – http://www.gearrannan.com/

Shallow, warm waters lap against a coastline of rabbit burrowed sand dunes covered of course with lush green grass. Uig Bay is a serious stunner.

The water colour is so striking against the white sands and the open landscapes are perfect for long walks on the beach or a day out and about photographing the ever-changing scenes from land or sea.

Shawbost Bay

Wander past farm houses and stone fences before dedicating an hour or so to stare at the waves and do nothing…

Quiet and feeling a little more residential than the other beaches on the islands, Shawbost Bay is the kind of place you’d take your dogs walking if you lived nearby. It’s a gorgeous curved bay where small waves roll in and the marshlands of Loch a’ Bhaile provide a mixture of tones and textures in the surrounding landscape.

If you’re staying at the Eilean Fraoich Camp Site (keep reading for details) the bay offers the perfect excuse for a sunset stroll. Wander past farm houses and stone fences before dedicating an hour or so to stare at the waves and do nothing. It’s so darn relaxing here!

Callanish Stones

It’s believed they were put there for ritual use in the Bronze Age and are now one of the best-preserved Neolithic monuments in the country…

Scotland’s very own Stonehenge is a collection of standing stones some 5,000years old. It’s believed they were put there for ritual use in the Bronze Age and are now one of the best-preserved Neolithic monuments in the country.

You can wander amongst the stones and even pretend you’re on Outlander (even though the stone circle on the show are fictional), just be warned that this can be a busy spot for tourists so I recommend visiting in the early morning.

St Clements Church, Rodel

With Macleod linage in my own family history, stumbling across this church was such an interesting find…

Perched high on the southern tip of Harris, St Clements Church was built in the early 16 th centore for the Chiefs of the Macleod Clan of Harris. With Macleod linage in my own family history, stumbling across this church was such an interesting find and it’s also touted as the grandest medieval building in the Western Isles.

Sheep roam the surrounding paddocks and you can walk through the cemetery where gravestones date back centuries. Inside ornate carvings, tombs and stone detailing are explained on a series of information panels.

Right next door to the church is a small restroom and surprisingly, inside the women’s toilet is a little book that absolutely made my day to read. Visitors have been writing in the ‘toilet book’ for years since someone left an empty notebook and pen. It’s hilarious, endearing and so fun to leave your own little message for the next loo lurker.

When to Visit the Outer Hebrides

Depending on what you’re hoping to do during your stay, there’s a season for everyone. Obviously the winter months are a little harsher so you’ll need to be prepared for strong winds, storms and rain however this also brings with it a menacing beauty.

Personally I found early June to be a great time to visit. It’s not quite warm enough to swim but the weather is clearing up, the days are getting hotter and it’s ideal for hiking and beach strolls. It’s also the closest you can get to summer without competing against the crowds for campsites. September would also be a good month to experience the best of both worlds.

Ferry times also changed depending on the season and popularity to be sure to check the Cal Mac website as times vary.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides –

You can fly (and even land on a sandy runway) but I’d highly recommend taking a car and catching the Caledonian MacBrayne (Cal Mac) Ferries. Arriving by ferry means you’re ready to explore once you arrive and having a car on the islands is essential!

Be sure to book well in advance if you’re travelling during the summer months as there are limited ferries each day and they fill up quickly.

One of the most popular routes is from Uig on the Isle of Skye to Tarbert on Harris which is a great central place to arrive and from there you can venture north or south.

For ferry times, ferry routes and bookings visit – www.calmac.co.uk

Also passes are available if you’re keen on island hopping your way around so check out the Hopscotch Passes available.

Great Campsites and Wigwams on the Isle of Lewis + Harris –

If you’re looking for a place to pitch your tent or park your campervan with access to power and facilities, there’s a number of well located campsites available.

Actually, most campsites come with beach frontage and water views making them ideal for a summer holiday! During our time on Lewis and Harris we stayed at three places in total, two campsites and one Shepard’s Hut which turned out to be my favourite accommodation in Scotland!

We hired a Spaceships Campervan for our road trip around Scotland and loved that you can make home almost anywhere we wanted. That said, I prefer to book a campsite and have a shower and facilities nearby!

Below are a list of the campsites we stayed at with phone numbers to contact for bookings.

Eilean Fraoich Camp Site – Phone +44 1851 710504

This is a well-maintained campsite with great facilities in Shawbost on the islands north western coast. From the site you can walk to the beach and it’s also close for visiting The Blackhouses of Arnol.

Horgabost Campsite – Phone +44 1859 550386

To wake up with views of the ocean and the beach just a few meters away, this campsite is hard to beat in terms of location! Located on the beautiful Horgabost Bay it’s a more casual vibe where you pay via an honesty box and cross your fingers for space.

Mangersta Croft Wigwams

This is my favourite little place in all of Scotland. The night we spent here was so special due to a mud map adventure to ‘The Best Bothy in Scotland’ and because hosts Elsie and Derek were wonderful to chat with about the island’s history. Also they’ve got two cute puppies…oh, and the wigwams and their Shepard’s Hut fit the Scottish scenery perfectly. Cute, comfy and very cosy for those chilly nights, it’s a great place to break up sleeping in a tent or a car and treat yourself to a little luxury.

For more information and bookings visit – http://www.mangurstadhgallery.com/wigwams-glamping

In Photos – The Isle of Lewis and Harris

A collection of images taken in early June with the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II + 12-40mm F2.8 PRO lens, 40-150mm f/2.8 PRO lens.

Hello! I’m the founder and photographer behind The Wandering Lens. With 17+yrs experience as a professional travel and landscape photographer, all advice found on this site is from my personal experience on the road. I hope it’s useful for your own travels and would love to hear in the comments about your trips and experiences around the world.

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Blog comments.

April 21, 2018 at 3:51 pm

I am Scottish and have never been to Harris or the outer Hebrides but this post has made me so so want to!! I cannot believe those beaches are Scottish, they look tropical! Such a stunning post, looks like an amazing adventure!

April 21, 2018 at 4:32 pm

I was LITERALLY just planning a roadtrip through Scotland! THANK YOU FOR THIS!! I’m printing it out to put on my wall now

April 21, 2018 at 5:34 pm

Lovely photos! Looks like a very unique part of the world. I would love to spend the night in a wigwam!

April 21, 2018 at 10:51 pm

Gosh, this is making me homesick…and I’m from London. I have realised that what my family loves best is exploring places like this where it’s not guaranteed to be perfect weather, where the air can bite and we can all run and jump to our hearts’ content. So we moved to sweaty Mexico. Whoops. I have wanted to go to the Hebrides for about one zillion years. I’ve pinned the article for future use. Thanks.

April 21, 2018 at 11:59 pm

Your photos are stunning! Exploring more of Scotland has long been on my bucket list and I just wanted to jump into those pics! Thank you for the great ideas for places to explore away from the crowds.

April 22, 2018 at 3:04 am

Lovely post! I just visited Scotland a week ago for the first time and loved it so much. It was one of the few places in the world I wanted to go back to directly. Your pictures are so amazing and make me wanne book a flight to Scotland today 😀

Andrea Mayfield

April 22, 2018 at 11:31 am

Your photos look incredible from Scotland! The coastline is so dramatic and gorgeous! Great guide!

June 7, 2018 at 8:44 pm

Thanks Lisa for bringing back childhood memories of growing up on Lewis. 40 years later, very little has changed. I now live in New Zealand and am often amazed at how similar it can be to the Hebrides at times.

Lisa Michele Burns

June 7, 2018 at 10:51 pm

This makes me so happy to read Neil! The Hebrides are so special aren’t they!? Definitely very much like New Zealand, one of my other favourite places. Were you originally from Harris/Lewis or one of the other islands? I’m so keen to go back and explore the other smaller islands too!

Gwenda Bowman

April 14, 2019 at 8:34 am

Beautiful photos! I plan on visiting the McLeod clan areas and other lines throughout Scotland and Shetland on my Mum’s side of the family, hopefully next year. I live in NZ and have been researching the family genealogy for the past 9 years…time to explore firsthand.

John Staines

April 15, 2020 at 6:05 am

We will hopefully be travelling through the Outer Hebrides in September 2020 (Covid permitting) and your article / images have inspired me, thank you.

April 16, 2020 at 9:34 pm

That’s so great to hear John, the Outer Hebrides totally stole my heart…one of those few special places that still exist!

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Roadtripping the Outer Hebrides – Itinerary & Things To Do

When my friend, Vicky Flip Flop , messaged me to ask if I fancied doing an Outer Hebrides road trip in Scotland, it didn’t take more than a few seconds to be like – I’m in! Not that I usually need much encouragement for a road trip, but this was September 2020 and I was desperate to travel.

To be honest, I didn’t even know where the Outer Hebrides actually where, but a quick check of the map taught me they weren’t up in the far north of Scotland like I thought (that’s the Shetland and Orkney Isles).

The Outer Hebrides , also known as the ‘Western Isles’, is a group of islands off the west coast of mainland Scotland. There are 15 inhabited islands and many more uninhabited ones. The main islands being Lewis & Harris, Uist, and Barra.

The islands are more beautiful than you can imagine, with a rare, tranquil, rugged sort of beauty that you don’t find very often. Just when you’ve seen the most stunning beach you’ve ever seen, you turn a corner and there’s another one.

We had an amazing time, so I wanted to share our Outer Hebrides itinerary with you, with some ideas of the best things to do and see along the way to help you plan a trip of your own trip to the Western Isles.

We travelled through the Outer Hebrides in September 2020 when it was still under Coronavirus restrictions and a few places were still closed, but we still very much enjoyed exploring the islands all the same.

Please Note:  Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which will earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. Affiliate sales help with the running costs of this site, so thank you for your support!

Table of Contents

Planning a Trip to the Outer Hebrides in Scotland

Getting To & Around the Outer Hebrides

The most popular way to get to the Outer Hebrides, is to drive to one of the ports on the mainland (Oban, Ullapool, Mallaig) or the Isle of Skye and then take your car across to the islands on one of the Cal Mac ferries that run pretty frequently. These ferries also travel between the islands too.

If you’re in a car/campervan especially, it’s definitely better to book well in advance as there are limited spaces. Foot passengers have a lot more flexibility.

The easiest way to get around the Outer Hebrides is with your own transport, whether it be a car, campervan, or even bike. There is some public transport, but you’ll have a lot less freedom than you would driving yourself.

If you don’t want to take your own car, you could either get the ferry as a foot passenger or fly into Barra, Benbecula, or Stornoway with local airline Loganair . Flights depart from various locations around the UK.

Once there, you can hire a car or campervan, and then make your way through the islands. Carhire Hebrides allow you to pick up a car in one location and drop it off in another.

Another popular activity is walking or cycling the Hebridean Way which goes from top to bottom of the islands and we met a few people doing this whilst we were there. If you don’t want to go it alone, Rabbies has a 6-day tour to the Outer Hebrides and the Isle of Skye .

Our Outer Hebrides Itinerary

If you do decide to go island hopping, you can start pretty much anywhere, but it makes sense to either start and end in Barra or Harris/Lewis, as they are at the top and bottom of the Outer Hebrides.

We drove to Oban (via Loch Lomond), got the ferry to Barra, stayed in Barra 1 night, then got the ferry to Uist, stayed 1 night there, then got the ferry to the Isle of Harris, drove to the Isle of Lewis (Harris and Lewis are 1 island), spent 2 nights there, drive back to Harris, stayed 1 night and then got the ferry to the Isle of Skye and then drove to the mainland.

I really enjoyed our trip and it felt like a real adventure. But knowing what I know now, I would probably have spent an extra night on Barra and an extra night on Uist to explore and relax a little more. I would have liked to do some kayaking here (if the weather allowed).

And, although not the Outer Hebrides, I would have liked to have spent more time on the Isle of Skye (in the Inner Hebrides). A few hours driving through it is not enough. I think you need at least a day or two, to really make the most of it, so I’d add an extra night in Skye.

So my ideal Outer Hebrides itinerary would look something like this:

• Day 1: Ferry from Oban to Catlebay, Barra
• Day 2: Exploring Barra & Vatersay
• Day 3: Ferry from Aird Mhor to Eriskay, Uist
• Day 5: Exploring Uist
• Day 6: Ferry from Berneray, Uist to Leverburgh, Harris
• Day 7 & 8: Explore Harris or Lewis
• Day 9: Tarbert, Harris to Uig, Skye OR Stornoway, Lewis to Ullapool (for NC500)

As Harris and Lewis is so big, I would perhaps suggest splitting where you stay so that you’re not driving so far! In terms of in what order to explore Harris and Lewis, whichever you are leaving from, stay and explore there last!

You can of course do shorter trips or longer trips and you don’t have to island-hop as we did. You can just fly or get the ferry into one island and stay there.

Alternatively, if you have longer (like an extra week or even two), you could also add in places like the Inner Hebrides (Skye, Mull etc), Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness and the famous North Coast 500 route . You could then detour to explore the Orkney or even the Shetland Islands! The possibilities are endless.

If you’re a foodie, check out the  Outer Hebrides Food Trail and Map . There’s also a foraging guide  if that’s your thing!

Where to Stay in the Outer Hebrides

There are lots of great places to rest your head in the Outer Hebrides, from campsites with facilities and wild camping, to beautiful hotels and glamping pods. Having your own campervan or tent definitely gives you an extra bit of flexibility. You can hire a campervan from Hebridean Campers or perhaps hire one on the mainland to bring over to the Hebrides.

We did a mix of camping on campsites, wild camping and staying in hotels. If you do decide to camp, make sure you are prepared with the right equipment. We, were not. You will need a strong and low tent, especially if you’re camping near the water.

We brought a big tent, which blew down on our first night, and we’d borrowed extra strength tent pegs from a lady in a campervan. The minute she saw us, she came over and was like ‘That tent won’t last the night’. She was right. Another night Vicky stayed in her tiny, 1-woman low tent and I slept in the car. Also not ideal.

If wild camping, you will also need to follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code . For some tips on how best to go about it, my partner in crime, Vicky, has written a great post about everything you need to know before wild camping in the Outer Hebrides .

I’ve listed some places to stay under each location below, but just note that many of these will book up in advance.

Cost of Travelling to the Outer Hebrides

You can make your trip to the Outer Hebrides as expensive or as cheap as you like.

I reckon Vicky and I spent around £450 – £500 each on our trip, including petrol, transport (ferries), food, and accommodation. That included a mix of camping and hotels. We spent nothing on activities (as some were closed and we also didn’t have tons of time).

However, you could easily spend a lot more than we did if you’re doing activities, hiring cars and staying in fancier hotels. Or you could spend a lot less if you’re wild camping/camping and cooking for yourself the whole time.

When to Visit the Outer Hebrides

You can visit the Outer Hebrides all year. You’ll generally get the best weather during the British summer, however, the weather in the UK and especially Scotland, is never guaranteed, so even if you go in summer it can rain or be cold. The British summertime tends to be the busiest time of year when the schools are on holiday.

Just be prepared for all weather, and know that it rains a lot and is very windy due to the island’s position out on the Atlantic Ocean. Bad weather may affect things like activities and the ferries between the islands.

Midges can be a problem in Scotland in the summer (although not a big problem in the breezy Outer Hebrides), so travelling in April/May and September/October are popular times, when the weather can be pretty ok and the midges aren’t an issue!

Outer Hebrides Itinerary

Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park

Early in the morning, Vicky and I left my house in North West England, heading towards Loch Lomond in Scotland. And whilst this isn’t part of the Outer Hebrides, I’ll talk about it anyway, in case it’s useful for you!

Now, I have to give a special mention to Tebay Services on the M6, my favourite service station in the UK! I love Tebay, although every time I go I end up spending a fortune in their farm shop.

We picked up some cheese, chutney, crackers, cakes, gin in a tin, and then continued our journey to Loch Lomond in Scotland.

On the way, we stopped at the Loch Lomond Visitors Centre at Balloch. We had a little walk around and although it wasn’t a highlight of the trip for me, kids might enjoy the Sea Life Aquarium or the Loch Lomond Bird of Prey Centre .

We also visited the village of Luss , which is very cute and pretty with a few shops, toilets and a pay and display car park. We walked around the village, had lunch at The Village Rest (which was really nice) and took a stroll down to the the dock where we saw a beautiful rainbow! You can take boat trips out onto the lake with Cruise Loch Lomond if you have the time.

Our last stop was the village of Ardlui and the Ardlui Hotel, where we grabbed a drink in the bar and Vicky had the chance to fly her drone over the loch before we made our way to the Pine Trees Leisure Park , our accommodation for the night.

If you want to wild camp around here, you will need to get a permit (unlike in the Outer Hebrides, you can’t just camp for free) and follow the rules of the park!

I would have liked an extra day here as there are lots of great activities in and around Loch Lomond , including walks, boat trips, paddleboarding, and kayaking.

Loch Lomond is on the West Highland Way , one of Scotland’s most-loved walking trails, so Vicky and I took a morning walk along part of the trail before we began our journey to Oban where we would catch the ferry to the Outer Hebrides. We stopped at the The Real Food Cafe (highly recommended) for a bacon, egg, and cheese butty on the way.

In Oban, we had a few hours before we were due to board the ferry, so we parked up and had a little wander around town and grabbed some lunch. I got some fish & chips from MacGillivray’s Seafood whilst Vicky picked up some seafood from the Oban Seafood Hut  (Green Shack) down by the ferry office.

This place has a big sign saying ‘Local Shellfish’, had big queues, which means it’s probably really good and it gets good ratings on Tripadvisor. They did a big platter which looked fab… if only I liked shellfish.

I liked Oban immediately. There were lots of souvenir shops, whiskey shops, the Highland Soap Co. (great for Christmas presents, and treating yourself) as well as some nice pubs and restaurants, which included a lot of seafood places. A popular activity is to take a tour of the Oban Whiskey Distillery which is often booked up in advance.

Barra & Vatersay

We took the CalMac car ferry from Oban to Castlebay (5.5 hours) on the Isle of Barra, our first stop on our Outer Hebrides itimnerary along with the tiny neighbouring island of Vatersay.

You can also fly into Barra with Loganair and land on one of the world’s only beach runways. Whilst I wouldn’t usually consider myself much of a plane spotter, Vicky and I made our way up to  Barra Airport  to see one of the daily flights coming in.

Why? Because Barra is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach. Pretty cool, hey? And it’s just been voted the 5th most scenic airport in the world! Plus, if you fly in, you’ll get the bird’s eye view of this paradise island!

Barra is often nicknamed Barra-dise or Barra-bados and it was easy to see why people fall in love with the place. These were the quietest of the islands we visited and stunningly beautiful, with beaches that look like they came right from the Caribbean.

My favourite thing that we did whilst staying on Barra was going over to the island of Vatersay, the southern-most inhabited island in the Outer Hebrides.

To get to Vatersay, you take a short drive from Barra, and once there, just head off and explore. We spent most of our time on a beach called Traigh a Bhaigh where Vicky was able to set off the drone and get some stunning pictures.

The waters are crystal clear (perfect for swimming, if a little chilly), the sand clean and white, and there were cows just wandering down the beach. It was really idyllic. From here you can walk away from the beach, over the road, and across the dunes to the other side where another gorgeous beach awaits.

We only spent one day here, but it would have been lovely to spend more time and do some of the water-based activities. Unfortunately, it was too windy the day we were there anyway, but you might have more luck.

Things to Do on Barra

• Clearwater Paddling : A friend of mine highly recommended, taking a trip with these guys. She had beautiful weather when she went a few years ago and paddled over to a seal colony and saw puffins. Am I jealous… yep, lil’ bit!
• Isle of Barra Surf & Coastal Adventures : They run a few different activities including surfing, snorkelling with seals, coasteering, and kayaking.
• Barra Bike Hire : This would be a great way to see the Isle of Barra, especially as it’s quite small and the roads are quiet.
• Hebridean Sea Tours : They run trips around Barra and to some of the islands in the surrounding area including the abandoned island of St Kilda.
• Kismul Castle: The ancient seat of the Clan MacNeil, the ‘Castle in the Sea’ was closed when we were there due to Covid-19 restrictions, but usually, you can visit to learn about its history and climb up to the top for panoramic views over Castle Bay. You can find out more from the Isle of Barra Heritage Centre .
• The Isle of Barra Distillers Co : Whilst on the island you could pick up a bottle of locally made Barra Atlantic Gin. They usually offer tours from March to September on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

Where To Eat & Drink on Barra

• Cafe Kismul : We enjoyed a really nice meal at this Indian/Italian restaurant. It’s in the centre of the main village, near to the post office and ATM. It’s only small so you may be best to make a reservation.
• Castlebay Bar : This seems to be the nightlife on the island.
• Hebridean Toffee Factory & the Deck Cafe : We only stopped here for a bacon butty (didn’t try the toffee), but it was pretty good and this is where we picked up the cool tourist map you see on the photos.
• Bùth Bharraigh : A nice little visitor centre and shop selling food, souvenirs, and useful things like extra tent pegs. They also had a good selection of dairy and gluten-free items, something I always notice!
• Barra Airport Cafe : If you get peckish whilst waiting for the plane to come in, grab some food or a drink at the airport cafe.
• Co-Op: If you’re self-catering, there’s a Co-Op in town where you can stock up.
• Ardmhòr Coffee: Near to the ferry terminal, so you can pick up a pre-ferry drink or cake.

Where To Stay on Barra

• Wavecrest Campsite : We stayed at this campsite, which was really nice and cheap at £10 and with an amazing view. £15 if you need access to power. There are showers, toilets, and a kettle, but not much else in the way of facilities.
• Croft No. 2 Campsite : Situated at Barra’s northern point, this campsite has a modern toilet/shower block, a washing machine at £3.50 per wash and a mix of level and slightly sloping grass pitches, most with electrical hook-up. Chemical deposit point, dish-washing & storage area, in-door & outdoor drying. 
• Dunard Hostel : A few of the other people we met on the ferry were staying here, which was right in the centre of town, close to the ferry. This seems to be the popular backpacker’s choice!
• Isle of Barra Beach Hotel : In case you don’t fancy camping or hostelling. They also hire out electric bikes.
• Vatersay Old School : A gorgeous self-catering option on Vatersay Island.

For our second stop on the Outer Hebrides itinerary, we took the CalMac car ferry from Aird Mhor Barra Ferry Terminal to Eriskay (40 minutes), an island in the south of Uist, a larger group of islands which consists of Eriskay, South Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, Flodaigh, Grimsay, North Uist, Baleshare, and Berneray. There is also an airport at Benbecula.

To be honest, we didn’t do much whilst we were here as we only had less than 24 hours, most of which was spent sleeping, eating, and driving, but if you have more time, there are lots of great things to do and it’s a very beautiful place!

We spent the night wild camping next to gorgeous Culla Bay Beach in Benbecula. Once again, the wind was howling, so our wild camping expedition wasn’t quite as successful as we’d hoped (this is where I ended up sleeping in the car).

Things to Do on Uist

• St Kilda: Uist is a great jumping-off point to visit the uninhabited island of St Kilda. There are a few companies that run tours throughout the Outer Hebrides including Uist Sea Tours . Highlights of the tours include spotting bottlenose dolphins and puffins.
• Hiking: There are a few nice walks on Uist, including the stunning Udal Peninsula (approx. 3 hours), North Lee (approx. 4 – 5 hours), the Barpa Langass and the Stone Circle and Vallay Island (approx. 30 mins at low tide, but just be very careful to come back before high tide or you’ll be stranded).
• Traigh Iar & the Beaches: Traigh Iar beach is a favourite in the area. Other great beaches include Clachan Sands, Hosta, Traigh Ear, and of course, Traigh Udal (Udal Peninsula).
• Uist Community Riding School : I can’t imagine few things feeling as good as riding a horse on one of these gorgeous, white sand beaches!
• Go Otter Spotting: Otters might just be the cutest creatures in the world, and there are a number of places to spot them on Uist and in other parts of the Outer Hebrides. You can find a list of places here .
• Balranald Nature Reserve : Bird lovers will enjoy a trip to this reserve in North Uist. Species found there include barnacle goose, corn bunting, corncrake, lapwing, and turnstone. Spring is a great time to visit. They offer guided walks during the summer months.

Where To Eat & Drink on Uist

• Charlie’s Bistro (Benbecula): We ate dinner at Charlie’s Bistro in Benbecula. The food was really nice and the owner Ian was super helpful and gave us lots of info! We also tasted some of the local Downpour Gin, made at the North Uist Distillery Co.  As gin’s go, this was super tasty and had a really smooth, distinctive taste – definitely recommended.
• Am Politician: Bar & restaurant on Eriskay, overlooking the beach.
• Westford Inn (North Uist) : Pub food with a great craft beer and gin selection. Currently best rated on Tripadvisor.
• Hamersay House (North Uist) : Brasserie style restaurant using the freshest local ingredients.
• Lochmaddy Hotel (North Uist) : Great selection of food including all the usual favourites. Good selection for veggies and vegans.
• Taigh Chearsabhagh (North Uist) : Great cafe located at the Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre.
• Langass Lodge (North Uist) : Well-rated restaurant with evening meals served from 6pm.
• The Dunes Cabin (North Uist): This food truck at the Balranald Hebridean Holidays site near to the Balranald Nature Reserve.
• Berneray Shop & Bistro (Berneray) : We stopped here to buy some toastie making supplies but unfortunately didn’t get a chance to eat at the bistro as it was too early – opens at 12pm.

Where To Stay on Uist

• Uist Storm Pods (South Uist) : I love a good glamping holiday and these pods look like the perfect place to escape the elements, overlooking the loch towards South Lochboisdale.
• Uisinis Bothy (South Uist) : Free bothy, however, you need to call ahead during the stag stalking season.
• Long Island Retreats (South Uist) : Off-grid, self-catering accommodation, Located in some of the most scenic spots in South Uist.
• Uist Forest Retreat (North Uist) : Luxury treehouse accommodation. These look like the dream and where I would stay if I went back!
• Westford Inn (North Uist) : Great little cottage/bothy. Also with the best-rated restaurant on the island.
• The Tractor Shed Camping Pods & Bunkhouse (North Uist) : Lovely glamping pods, the site fits up to 24 guests.
• Lochmaddy Hotel (North Uist) : Nice, well-appointed rooms with a great restaurant and views looking over to the bay to the Isle of Skye.
• Hamersay House (North Uist) : Comfortable rooms overlooking Lochmaddy Harbour.
• Langass Lodge (North Uist) : Traditional style lodge, with views across the loch to Eaval.
• Balranald Hebridean Holidays (North Uist) : Campsite with electric hookups, as well as a glamping pod and a small cottage.
• John’s Bunkhouse (Berneray) : A popular spot is the famous John’s Bunkhouse on Berneray. This is nice and close to the ferry port if you have an early start over to Lewis and Harris.

Isle of Harris

We took the CalMac car ferry from Berneray in Uist to Leverburgh on the Isle of Harris (1 hour). Lewis and Harris is the main island of the Outer Hebrides. Harris is the southern third of the island and Lewis is the northern two-thirds of the island. You would say the ‘Isle of Lewis’ and the ‘Isle of Harris’ but they are attached and not two separate islands.

One thing to realise is that Lewis and Harris is much bigger than you think, so give yourself enough time to explore. We spent 2 nights in Lewis and 1 night in Harris. The first day was mostly spent driving to our accommodation which was in quite a remote location of Lewis.

We then spent the next day exploring Lewis, then a day exploring Harris, ending up in Tarbert on the 3rd night, so we were close to the ferry. If I were to do it again, I probably would have given a little bit more time here, at least 2 days for Lewis and 1 full day for Harris (or more).

Depending on where you are departing from (usually Stornoway for Ullapool or Tarbert for the isle of Skye), I would try to spend at least your final night close to the ferry to make it easier and then plan around that accordingly.

Things to Do on Harris

• Seilebost Beach: Said more like ‘Shul-e-bost’ in Gaelic, or at least that’s how it sounded to me) Beach – which was one of the many gorgeous beaches we visited on our Outer Hebrides itinerary. It was incredibly windy though! To get there, you park up, and then it’s a little walk over the dunes to get to the beach, this includes quite a steep drop down the sand dunes to get onto the beach so it wouldn’t be suitable for wheelchairs, at least not from this access point anyway.
• Clements Church: South of the ferry terminal is Rodel where you’ll find St Clements Church, built around 1520. A photograpers favourite.
• The Golden Road: Landing in Leverburgh, we drove what is known as the ‘Golden Road’. This runs from Rodel in the far south up to Tarbert, a port town in the middle of Harris.
• Isle of Harris Sea Tours: Our plan had been to do a tour with Isle of Harris Sea Tours . But again, the weather wasn’t so great, so we decided to give it a miss this time. Trips depart from Tarbert to various locations around the islands. They are also part of Kilda Cruises  who offer tours to the abandoned, remote island of St Kilda.
• Luskentyre Beach: This was by far the busiest beach of the trip, probably because it’s gorgeous and it was a lot calmer than Seilebost, so perfect for swimming! Just down the road (you’ll pass it on the way), there is a cute little hut that was working on an honesty box system. We bought coffee and chocolates and made ourselves a little beach picnic, which was great until the rains came in. We tried to shelter under the picnic blanket but ended up abandoning the beach. And what do you know? It was sunny again by the time we got back to the car. Scottish weather is bonkers!
• Play Golf: I’m not a golfer, but my husband is and the golf course at Scarista ( Isle of Harris Golf Club ) is likely to be one of the most beautiful you’ll ever come across – let’s just hope the weather holds out!
• Eilean Glas Lighthouse, Scalpay: On the other side of Tarbert, on the island of Scalpay (driveable), you’ll come to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse. You can’t drive all the way there, so you’ll need to park, and then it’s a little bit of a hike (around 20 – 30 minutes) to the lighthouse. There are also a number of longer walks around the peninsular too.
• Tarbert: We spent our last night on the islands in Tarbert which is where the ferry departs to the Isle of Skye. In Tarbert, you can visit the Harris Distillery & Shop . They usually do tours, but they weren’t running at the time of our visit. You can also stock up on some of the famous Harris Tweed in the Harris Tweed Shop  which is across the road.

Where To Eat & Drink on Harris

• Harris Hotel (Tarbert) : We had a lovely meal here. I had the cullen skink and fish & chips, both were excellent (ps. I’ve never eaten so much fish & chips in my life as I did on this trip, it was fab).
• Taste n’ Sea food Truck (Loch Seaforth) : Overlooking Loch Seaforth, this was a fantastic find. Both Vicky and I had the fish and chips (again), with homemade tartar sauce and she had a bowl of Cullen Skink too – which I didn’t try this time, but she assures me was very good.
• Sam’s Seafood Shack (Rodel) : Food truck in Rodel with amazing reviews.
• Butty Bus (Leverburgh) : Great for a quick bite, near to the Leverburgh ferry port.
• An Traigh (Seilebost) : Great place for lunch and afternoon tea. Amazing views.
• Scarista House (Scarista) : Beautiful hotel and restaurant, great for a romantic night.

Where To Stay on Harris

• Harris Hotel (Tarbert) : We stayed here on our last night as we’d heard a storm was brewing (we were going to camp). It was cosy and they had a nice restaurant. A great place to relax.
• Hotel Hebrides (Tarbert) : This is a more modern hotel, situated right next to the ferry in Tarbert.
• Kirklea Island Suites (Tarbert) : Gorgeous apartments right near the ferry.
• Sandy Bay Croft Wigwams (Scarista) : We drove past these and they looked incredible with great views over the beaches.
• West Harris Trust (Various Locations) : The West Harris Trust have a number of great camping spots on the island, close to Seilebost and Luskentyre beaches.
• Fir Chlis (Seilebost Beach) : Gorgeous self-catering home, overlooking Seilebost Beach. One of the top picks on the Isle of Harris.
• Borve Lodge Estate (Borve) : If you really want to treat yourself, stay at one of the gorgeous lodges on the Borve Lodge Estate.
• Horgabost Campsite (Borve) : On the beach, opposite the island of Taransay.
• Scaladale Centre (Loch Seaforth) : Hostel & activity centre, offering things like mountain biking, rock climbing, sea kayaking, and coasteering.
• Lickisto Blackhouse Camping (Lickisto) : Stay in your own tent, campervan or one of their gorgeous glamping yurts.

Isle of Lewis

As mentioned, I wish I’d had a bit more time in Lewis. Two full days would have been great! Lewis has a lot of things to do and places to explore, so don’t rush it!

While the other islands had been more flat, Harris and Lewis were more hilly and barren looking, reminding me of England’s Lake District or the Scottish Highlands .

To get to Lewis, you can either drive from Harris or get the car ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway to do this trip in reverse. There’s also an airport in Stornoway.

Things to Do on Lewis

• Mangersta Beach: We didn’t visit Mangersta Beach, but if you have more time, it does look amazing. With a number of sea stacks out in the water it’s a good place for photography.
• Uig (Lewis) Chessmen & Uig Bay: We went to see the 12th Century Uig Chessmen, a chess set, calved from walrus ivory, found in Uig Bay in 1831. What we didn’t realise is that the real chess pieces are on display in British Museum in London, and the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. What you see in Lewis is a replica statue, but it’s still pretty cool. Uig Bay is an incredibly beautiful place to visit, with a huge sandy beach. There’s also the Uig Community Shop and Petrol Station if you need to stock up. Seatrek also run boat tours departing from here.
• Reef Beech & the Circular Scenic Route: We took the Circular Scenic Route on the way to Reef Beach. This is a really nice, relatively short drive and Reef Beach is one of the prettiest around.
• Bosta Beach, Great Bernera: My uncle’s parents came from the island of Great Bernera off the coast of Lewis (you can drive there via a bridge), so I wanted to make a special trip out there to see the lovely Bosta Beach. Again we found another amazing white sand and turquoise waters beach – they just kept getting better and better!
• The Callanish Stones: The Callanish Stones are ancient, 5000-year-old stones from the  Neolithic era that were erected as a place of ritual and worship during the Bronze Age. If you can work it into your itinerary (and you get the weather), it might be nice to be at the Callanish Stones around sunrise or sunset, as the illuminated sky will really make your photos look incredible!
• Gearrannan Blackhouse Village: Sadly this was closed when we were in the area, but we drive past for a look anyway! This is a traditional Hebridean village, located right on the coast, where you can stay or visit to learn about life in the Outer Hebrides.
• Dalmore Beach (Traigh Dhail Mhor): If you haven’t had enough of the beaches yet (and you probably never will), make your way to Dalmore Beach for more gorgeous views.
• Stac a’ Phris Sea Arch: A little further around the coast, you’ll come to the Stac a’Phris Sea Arch on the West Side Coastal Path. Being on the west side, this is a popular place for sunset photography, so would make a nice final stop before heading back to Stornoway for dinner.
• Stornoway: We got to Stornoway in the early evening. Stornoway is the capital of the Hebrides and where you’ll find most of the action. We first had a walk around the harbour, followed by a drink at McNeill’s pub, ending with dinner in the Harbour Kitchen. Even though they were booked up, they fitted us in for an early dinner.

Where To Eat & Drink on Lewis

• Harbour Kitchen (Stornoway) : We had dinner here and I’d highly recommend the food and the friendly service. Vicky had the biggest pot of mussels I’ve ever seen (I think she counted 70+) and I had fish & chips (again). Both were fantastic and I’d highly recommend going here. Just make sure you book ahead as it’s very popular!
• Harris & Lewis Smokehouse (Stornoway) : We were set on eating here to sample their smoked salmon, but it was closed when we were there.
• Boatshed Restaurant (Stornoway) : Stylish restaurant at the Royal Stornoway Hotel.
• Uig Sands Restaurant (Uig) : Lovely restaurant overlooking Uig Sands, famous for their smoked salmon.

Where To Stay on Lewis

• Broad Bay House (Stornoway) : Gorgeous b&b just outside of Stornoway.
• Airbnb (Cromore): We stayed in this lovely Airbnb, in Cromore. It was a little bit out of the way, but really comfortable and the hosts were lovely.
• Otter Bunkhouse & Bothy (Uig) : Bunkhouse sleeping 8 people. Bothy sleeps 2 people.
• Otter Bay Pod (Stornoway) : Small and cosy pod near to Stornoway. Sleeps 2 adults and 2 kids, or 3 adults.
• Stornoway B&B (Stornoway) : Cosy b&b in the centre of Stornoway.
• The Hatchery (Tolstachaolais) : Gorgeous house, sleeps 4. Would be an amazing house to have over Christmas and New Year!
• Mangersta Croft Holidays (Mangersta) : Lovely glamping pods near Mangersta Beach.
• Gearrannan Blackhouse Village : Unique accommodation, great for groups.
• Eilean Fraoich Campsite (Shawbost) : Up in the north of Lewis, near to Gearrannan Blackhouse Village.

Leaving the Outer Hebrides

From the Outer Hebrides, you have a few different choices.

If you hired a car in the Hebrides, you can fly back to the mainland from Stornoway, Barra, or Benbecula. Or you can get the ferry from Tarbert (Isle of Harris) to Uig on the Isle of Skye and travel onwards from there. Skye joins onto the mainland, so you can easily make your way to Glasgow, Edinburgh, or Inverness.

Another option is to get the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool on the mainland, which is a great place to begin exploring the Highlands, including the fabulous North Coast 500 drive .

Other Scotland posts you might enjoy…

• 30 Things To Know Before You Drive Scotland’s NC500
• Scotland’s North Coast 500 Route Planner, Map & 1-Week Itinerary

I hope this helps you plan your itinerary and I hope you enjoy your trip to the Outer Hebrides! I loved my trip and can’t wait to go back again.

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I love to travel all over the world, but it's Africa that holds a special place in my heart. My mission is to help people travel Africa in an authentic, safe, fun, adventurous and ethical way.

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Hi. I may have missed it but some indication of the costs would have been really useful. I appreciate that everyone’s trip will be different (routes, eating preferences etc) but a general pointer would be great if possible. Many thanks

I think the trip cost me about £500 in total, but I didn’t keep a detailed record of the costs. We camped and stayed in cheap hotels, drove our own car etc, but like you say, everyone’s trip will be very different depending on whether you drive/fly, drive your own car or hire one, or whether you camp (wild or in campsites), stay in a campervan or stay in hotels, length of trip and how many activities you do.

But from all the information and website links I’ve put in the post, you should easily be able to work out your estimated costs based on your own preferences. 🙂

What an amazing blog on the Western Isles. We are determined to go and have been inspired by you. Thank you so much!

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The Best Time to Visit Outer Hebrides, the United Kingdom for Weather, Safety, & Tourism

The best times to visit Outer Hebrides for ideal weather are

June 11th to September 16th

based on average temperature and humidity from NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration). Read below for more weather and travel details.

Outer Hebrides Travel Guide

Temperature.

• Perceived Temperature
• Rain and snow
• Humidity and wind
• The busiest and least popular months
• Overall travel experience by time of year

Other Outer Hebrides Travel Info

Weather in outer hebrides.

Average temperatures in Outer Hebrides vary somewhat. Considering humidity, temperatures feel cold for most of the year with a chance of rain or snow throughout most of the year. The area is less temperate than some — in the 14th percentile for pleasant weather — compared to tourist destinations worldwide. Weeks with ideal weather are listed above . If you’re looking for the very warmest time to visit Outer Hebrides, the hottest months are July, August, and then September. See average monthly temperatures below. The warmest time of year is generally late July where highs are regularly around 62.7°F (17.1°C) with temperatures rarely dropping below 53.4°F (11.9°C) at night.

Outer Hebrides Temperatures (Fahrenheit)

Outer hebrides temperatures (celsius), “feels-like” temperatures.

The way we experience weather isn’t all about temperature. Higher temperatures affect us much more at higher humidity, and colder temperatures feel piercing with high winds. Our perceived temperatures factor in humidity and wind chill to better represent how hot or cold the day feels to a person.

Outer Hebrides Perceived Temperature (F)

Outer hebrides perceived temperature (c), average outer hebrides temperatures by month.

Daily highs (averaged for the month) usually give the best indication of the weather. A significantly lower mean and low generally just means it gets colder at night.

Show Fahrenheit

Show celsius, precipitation (rain or snow).

If dry weather is what you’re after, the months with the lowest chance of significant precipitation in Outer Hebrides are June, April, and then July. Note that we define “significant precipitation” as .1 inches or more in this section. The lowest chance of rain or snow occurs around early to mid June. For example, on the week of June 11th there is 1 day of precipitation on average. By contrast, it’s most likely to rain or snow in early December with an average of 5 days of significant precipitation the week of December 3rd.

Chance of Precipitation

The graph below shows the % chance of rainy and snowy days in Outer Hebrides.

Snow on the Ground

The graph below shows the average snow on the ground in Outer Hebrides (in).

Average Rain and Snow by Month

Show inches, show centimeters, humidity and wind.

Outer Hebrides has some extremely humid months, and high humidity throughout the year. The least humid month is May (73.1% relative humidity), and the most humid month is August (82%).

Wind in Outer Hebrides is usually stronger than many places . The windiest month is January, followed by December and March. January’s average wind speed of around 18 knots (20.7 MPH or 33.3 KPH) is considered “a fresh breeze.” Maximum sustained winds (the highest speed for the day lasting more than a few moments) are at their highest in early to mid January where average top sustained speeds reach 28.3 knots, which is considered high wind or moderate gale winds.

Relative Humidity (%)

The graph below shows the average % humidity by month in Outer Hebrides.

The graph below shows wind speed (max and average) in knots.

Average Wind Speeds

Show wind speeds.

All wind speeds are in knots. 1 knot = 1.15 MPH or 1.85 KPH.

Show Relative Humidity by Month

Is it safe to travel to outer hebrides.

Our best data indicates this area is somewhat safe. As of Dec 04, 2023 there are travel warnings for the United Kingdom; exercise a high degree of caution. Check this page for any recent changes or regions to avoid: Travel Advice and Advisories . This advisory was last updated on Nov 27, 2023.

The Busiest and Least Crowded Months

The busiest month for tourism in Outer Hebrides, the United Kingdom is July, followed by January and August. Prices for hotels and flights will be most expensive during these months, though you can save if you purchase well in advance. Tourists are unlikely to visit Outer Hebrides in April. Those willing to visit at these times will likely find it the least expensive month.

Estimated Tourism by Month

Most popular months to visit, overall outer hebrides travel experience by season, spring (march through may).

Humidity and temperatures combine to make this season feel moderately cold. Highs range from 57.5°F (14.2°C) and 46.9°F (8.3°C) with warmer temperatures in the later months. Rain is somewhat common with 8 to 11 days of significant precipitation per month. Spring is the slowest for tourism, which makes it a good time for those looking for deals.

Summer (June through August)

The middle-year months have comfortably cool weather with high temperatures that are brisk. These months see the least precipitation with 7 to 12 days of precipitation per month. June – August is the busiest season for tourism in Outer Hebrides, so lodging and other accommodations may cost more than usual.

Fall (September through November)

Fall daily highs range from 59.6°F (15.3°C) and 46.5°F (8.1°C), which will feel chilly given the humidity and wind. It rains or snows a great amount: 10 to 16 days per month. Tourism is fairly slow during these months due to the weather, so hotels may be lower priced.

Winter (December through February)

Weather is too cold this time of year in Outer Hebrides to be enjoyable for warm weather travelers. The average high during this season is between 46.9°F (8.3°C) and 44.8°F (7.1°C). On average, it rains or snows a very great amount: 11 to 18 times per month. These times of year are the second busiest with tourists.

Best Times to Travel › the United Kingdom › Outer Hebrides, the United Kingdom

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Outer Hebrides guide: best places to see wildlife

Our expert guide to the best wildlife spotting locations, plus where to stay and eat in the Outer Hebrides islands off the northwestern coast of the Scottish mainland

There’s nowhere quite like the islands of Outer Hebrides – the crystal-clear beauty of the waters, the wide stretches of white sand, the rare isolation. Among all this is wildlife galore – a riot of eagles, otters, gannets, red deer, butterflies and more. If you seek pure nature, there is no better place to go.

Perhaps it’s all the peaty soil that deadens nature’s background chatter but the silence on South Uist can be resounding. A mute swan skims down on to Loch Druidibeg and sails away, unruffled, its neck long and stiff, its body still, as if dragged along by an unseen underwater pulley. A black-throated diver flies low towards its nest, allowing its flight feathers to leave momentary rings on the water.

The inky waters are backlit by a setting sun that throws a sensational collage of colour and diamond-sharp shadows over the flanks of Beinn Mhòr , the highest mountain on the island.

South Uist is one of 119 islands (14 inhabited) that comprise the Outer Hebrides , an archipelago that runs 130 miles from north to south. They lie to the west of the Minch and the Sea of the Hebrides, which separate them from the mainland and islands such as Mull, Rum and Skye. They sit on the periphery of the British Isles and it’s heartening to discover that they look the part. It’s late evening in late May and a half-light now prevails that will all but fend off the darkness before dawn creeps back at around 3.30am. I spot golden plovers, pass a picked-clean sheep’s skull. Isolated homesteads appear to have been dropped like pieces of Lego from the skies.

Wild and free

At this time of year, the island wildlife is at its richest: undisturbed by mass tourism, thriving amid favourable habitats and on a mission to breed. The spectacle is nothing less than sensational; the islands really are as good as anywhere to see and hear wildlife in the UK; visitors are entitled to feel rather short-changed should they fail to see red deer, golden and white-tailed eagles and otters.

I often watch UK nature documentaries that spin yarns of the hours and days of effort required to secure wildlife footage. “For heaven’s sake,” I want to shout at the screen, “just go to the Outer Hebrides, you’ll get everything you need there.”

Take red deer: you may spot them while walking the hills but you are just as likely to see them by the roadside, or from a cosy cafe. The triangular ‘otters crossing’ traffic signs are not just there for holiday snaps: you have every chance of seeing otters by the causeways that link the southern islands.

For half an hour I make my way across the moors that surround Loch Druidibeg towards the sea. Mountains behind me, I enter a land of undulating flatness, as though unseen but gentle eddies are rolling along underneath the surface, causing fields to rise up like the crest of waves, hiding the Atlantic Ocean until I’m almost upon it. The landscape slowly shifts from a dulled golden monochrome to a mixture of shamrock and malachite green: the moors are giving way to the long strips of sea meadows and coastal grasslands known as the machair.

Living carpet

Largely comprising tiny shell fragments topped with marram grass, the machair bursts with wildflowers as spring gives way to summer. A single square metre can contain up to 45 species: scaled up, you are confronted with millions of bright red and white clover, buttercups, harebells, vetches, gentians and orchids.

The birdlife also differs on the machair: dunlin and ringed plover thrive here, oystercatchers peep-peep their way overhead and lapwings tumble earthwards in a thrilling spiral intended to deter predators. Raptors bide their time in the moors and mountains, then suddenly scorch down on to the machair in a dramatic interaction of prey and avian predators.

In all, more than 320 species of bird have been recorded on the Outer Hebrides and at least 100 species breed here. Away from Stornoway , I’ve rarely been out of earshot of cuckoos, while gannets scythe their way through offshore waters and sea lochs the length and breadth of the islands. Extreme butterflies are something of a feature and the low use of insecticides is a major factor in the wellbeing of species such as the green-veined white in this rigorous climate. The common blue has a Hebridean version thought to be the largest of all of this species.

Ancient presence

A bewitching sense of remoteness always accompanies me through these islands: the beaches are unsurpassed by any other in the UK and deliver many Robinson Crusoe moments where my footprints are the only ones on the sand. Yet there is even more to the Outer Hebrides than their natural wonders. The ancient heritage feels tangible, from Iron Age brochs to Celtic chapels and beehive houses of age-old provenance. Many croft houses stand decaying, gently being dismantled by the elements more than 150 years after they were abandoned during the Clearances. The rocks of Lewisian gneiss, at nearly three billion years old, are among the most ancient our planet has to offer.

Food, too, is a revelation and a food trail embraces community cafés run by volunteers and chefs who take their fare extremely seriously. You really have not tasted salmon until you have eaten it here. The islanders exude independent resilience, warmth and hospitality, while Gaelic language and culture is celebrated by young and old. If you fall in tune with the Outer Hebrides in May, the world has few places more enchanting to offer you.

The inhabited islands of the Outer Hebrides all have their own distinct character and charm – and all have secrets waiting to be discovered.

In the south-west of Lewis you’ll find the region of Uig , a land of vast moors, high hills and violently rugged coastal scenery. Deep in the hinterland of Uig, and accessible along boggy tracks, lies a hidden collection of shielings, beehive-shaped dwellings whose origins reach back into prehistory. They are hauntingly located by a burn a mile south of Loch Morsgail and only visible when you are almost upon them.

The beaches of South Harris are the show-stoppers of the Outer Hebrides. A mesmerising array of beaches radiates from the Sound of Luskentyre with shell-sand bays, shallow lagoons formed by tidal waters and ever-changing dunes. By contrast the lesser-visited east coast, known as The Bays (Na Bàigh), is a magnificent moonscape where ice-moulded boulders burp up through the ground. Isolated crofts here are often home to excellent artists’ studios.

North Uist and Berneray

North Uist comprises so many freshwater and sea lochs that it can be hard not to see it as a jumble of islets loosely knitted together. On the west coast lies the RSPB reserve of Balranald . In spring, the machair here is home to a sensational array of wildlife: skuas and divers out at sea and huge flocks of turnstone, purple sandpiper, dunlin and sanderling huddle on the shoreline. You will almost certainly hear the rasping call of the corncrake, a bird lost to so many places across the UK.

Don’t overlook the perfect gem of nearby Berneray , where people often get hooked by the solitude and sweeping majesty of West Beach .

Often described as “more loch than rock”, Benbecula’s flatlands are interrupted by the sizeable hump of Ruabhal , a 124m-high hill (giving rise to the Gaelic name for the island, Beinn Na Faoghla, or ‘the mountain of the fords’). Easily climbed, Ruabhal repays you with magnificent views up and down the island chain . The flanks are nesting places for hen harriers: as the chicks hatch, you may be treated to the sight of a food pass, where the male hen harrier passes prey in mid-air to its mate. Short-eared owls frequently fly over the moors, hunting in broad daylight. Both species are so common you may well encounter them as you carry out mundane chores such as filling the car up with petrol.

Apart from its wildlife, South Uist has much to offer visitors. These include the Big Garden (An Gàrradh Mòr), an eye-catching, walled, permaculture garden. If you’re self-catering, order a leg of hogget (one-year-old) lamb from them. The Kildonan Museum meanwhile is one of the world’s great small museums and amounts to a haunting eulogy for Uist life and culture. Check out the mattresses made from seaweed.

Hike around tiny Eriskay’s delightfully lumpy roads and moors, photograph the eponymous ponies and order a tight-fitting Eriskay jersey at the excellent community shop. Whisky bottles retrieved from a shipwreck – a saga told in the Ealing Comedy Whisky Galore! – can be viewed at the friendly island pub, the Politician .

Barra and Vatersay

Don’t miss a curry from the outstanding Cafe Kisimul in Castlebay , officially the best curry house in Scotland. Right at the bottom of this island chain is Vatersay , conjoined by a causeway to Barra. The east-facing bay here is arguably the most beautiful of all the sands you will encounter. On a sunny day, the shallow waters resemble the cover of a Caribbean travel brochure.

Experiences not to miss

From coasteering to kite-surfing, the Outer Hebrides are one vast, open – if rather wild – playground. Cyclists (visitouterhebrides.co.uk, then search for ‘Hebridean Way Cycling Route’) and walkers (www.hebrideanway.co.uk) have their own long-distance routes to follow from Lewis to Barra. Other superb walks are located in the North Harris Hills and the coast of Lewis while cyclists eulogise about the quiet lanes of the South Lochs on Lewis.

Anglers (fishhebrides.com) can pick from 2,000 fishable lochs while Clearwater Paddling on Barra (01871 810443; clearwaterpaddling.com) offers enchanting kayaking trips to uninhabited islands. A good local guide such as Chris Ryan of Out and About Tours (01851 612288; tourguide-hebrides.co.uk) can take you hill walking or reveal archaeological sites. Boat tours visit offshore islands such as the Monachs and the Shiants or venture to St Kilda.

Want to move there?

The Outer Hebrides can easily enchant you and visitors have been known to make impulsive life-changing decisions to relocate here. There is usually work for key workers – teachers, doctors – but for most people, self-sufficiency and creativity is the order of the day: running a croft, working in a shop, setting up a seasonal café, or all three. Well-run B&Bs universally thrive.

The islands are fertile ground for arts and crafts types and low property prices mean low overheads for start-ups. Local communities welcome incomers, especially those keen to buy into Gaelic culture and to respect traditional values.

A three-bedroom house in Stornoway costs around £160,000; a high-finish detached four-bed £330,000; £250,000 will buy you not only a house on any island but perhaps a café or other business, too.

The main caveat is weather: winter gales can blow for 10 days without relenting. Stay a couple of weeks in January as part of your reconnaissance.

Where to stay

Budget Stay

Galson Farm

Charming 18th-century farmhouse in the north-west of Lewis offers rooms with views of coast and moors. Excellent candlelit dinners and a warm welcome from the hosts. 01851 850492; galsonfarm.co.uk

Lickisto Blackhouse camping

Small but enchanting campsite in The Bays on South Harris. Pitches are separated by wild grasses (glorious in summer). Freshly baked bread available. 01859 530485; www.freewebs.com/vanvon

Heron Point

Top-class B&B near the southernmost tip of South Uist run by friendly owners. Views over the loch, local art on the walls, fishing and breakfasts (owner Andy is a trained chef) are superb. Lochboisdale, South Uist. 01878 700073; heronpoint.co.uk

Self-catering cottage

Sound of Harris

Book one of two stylish self-catering houses with Harris tweed trimmings, floor to ceiling windows and a Japanese soak tub. Sleeps two. Sound of Harris near Leverburgh, South Harris. soundofharris.co.uk

Upmarket hotel

Langass Lodge

Langass Lodge on North Uist has mounted stag heads, a cosy bar and snug rooms. Stunning location by the loch of the same name. 01876 580285; langasslodge.co.uk

Where to eat and drink

Digby Chick

Guinea fowl lollipops and pigeon breast with Stornoway black pudding are among eye-catching offerings at this charming restaurant in Stornoway. The best choice for a high-class meal. 01851 700026; digbychick.co.uk.uk

Fine-dining takeaway food from this superb croft kitchen on Lewis. Tempura prawns vie with smoked beef and pork. 01851 710424; www.40northfoods.co.uk Look out for a similar, unrelated, venture, Croft 36 on South Harris. croft36.com

Wonderful gallery, walls decorated with stunning landscape photography by Darren Cole whose partner Chris Griffiths – a master baker – serves white chocolate cookies to munch while overlooking Loch Tarbert. 01859 502363; hebscapegallery.co.uk

A local speciality

Abhainn Dearg Distillery

Take a tour of the Abhainn Dearg (Red River) distillery, atmospherically tucked away in a valley in remote Uig on Lewis. This smattering of unprettified barn buildings looks exactly how an illegal whisky distillery of years gone by might have done. Charismatic owner Marko Tayburn proudly declares that all ingredients – from the plough to the bottle – are sourced on the island. 01851 672429; abhainndearg.co.uk

Getting there

The most romantic option is CalMac ferry, which offers multiple route options. Two people plus car, from £85-£190. calmac.co.uk

Stornoway, Benbecula and Barra have flights from Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness and Aberdeen, operated by either Loganair (loganair.co.uk) or Eastern Airways (easternairways.com). High season fares range from £189-£300 return.

Main image: View of Harris on the Sound of Taransay, Western Isles, Scotland/Credit: Getty

Mark Rowe's new book: Guidebook, Outer Hebrides, The Western Isles of Scotland from Lewis to Barra , is out on 3 April. Published by Bradt www.bradtguides.com

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7 reasons to visit the Outer Hebrides

Rich in local culture and hosting a friendly community, the Outer Hebrides has much to explore.

• Post author By Firsty Admin
• Post date 7th March 2017

The Outer Hebrides offers more than its picture-postcard views. From historic sights to natural wonders there are plenty of reasons to visit the Western Isles. If you are looking for in-depth history and somewhere to feel at home the Outer Hebrides is the place for you.

Callinish standing stones

The standing stones of Callanish (Calanais) on the west coast date back 5,000 years and provide a haunting spectacle that arguably surpasses that of Stonehenge.  The stones were erected around 4,500–4,900 years ago but the site is known to have been cultivated by farmers planting barley even earlier, around 3500BC.  At least a dozen related sites surround the central Callanish stones, and two nearby satellite sites are worth visiting, both for their own interest and for the perspective they offer on the main site.

Harris Tweed

Harris Tweed’s unique cloth is only produced in the Outer Hebrides by weavers working in their own homes. Harris Tweed employs more than 250 craftsmen and women on the islands, with many specialist weavers creating their own niches and designs. Finished Harris Tweed items and rolls of cloth are exported to more than 50 countries. The industry is emerging from a period of decline and has re-established itself as a luxury global product. You can find Harris Tweed products in most local shops.

One of the defining landscape features of the Outer Hebrides’ west coast are the long strips of sea meadows and coastal grasslands known as the machair. As smooth and polished as a snooker table for much of the year, they transform into an astonishing riot of wild flowers in summer, providing an extreme and dazzling contrast with the bare, rugged rocks inland. 

Birdwatching

More than 320 species of bird have been recorded on the Outer Hebrides, leaving plenty of opportunity for bird watching. Golden eagles generally inhabit mountainous areas, such as Harris and the eastern side of South Uist. While they can be seen year round, February and March are good times to see males and females pair bond, soaring in unison and locking talons. 

One of the most endearing birds is the puffin, which you can expect to see during late spring and early summer, particularly around the Shiant Isles and at St Kilda. Other finds include, cuckoos, croncrake, red-necked phaalarope, curlew, redshank, greenshank, golden plover, oystercatcher, and lapwing.  A helpful Birds of Prey Trail ( www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk and search for ‘ Bird of Prey Trail ’) lists 11 locations and two ferry journeys where you have a decent chance of spotting both eagles, hen harrier, short-eared owl and merlin.

From easy beach strolls to strenuous and challenging mountain walks, the Outer Hebrides offer everything a hiker could wish. Several walks are described in the relevant island chapters. Beware, however, that walking on the Outer Hebrides may be different from what you are used to back home. Much of the UK mainland is mapped out with footpaths, permissive paths and fingerpost signs. This is rarely the case in the Outer Hebrides, where many walks take you over open, path-free ground. Sometimes there are waymarker posts leading the way; more often there are not, so a map, a compass and sound judgement are essential. The tourist board has also produced a new series of six walking publications for Callanish, Great Bernera, Rhenigidale, Scalpay, Berneray and Eriskay.

Geàrrannan Blackhouse Village

Blackhouses were the most common living quarters for islanders right into the 20th century and a collection of restored buildings is huddled together here either side of a winding track. Constructed of stone or turf-faced protruding walls with an earthen core and covered with further layers of turf and a straw thatch, blackhouses face the wind and their thatched roofs are pegged down with boulders and ropes made from heather.

The remaining blackhouses are offered as holiday lets . For a unique experience, stay on a self-catering basis in restored blackhouses at Geàrrannan at a cost of £60–£120 per night. There are four cottages with solid fuel stoves, some with underfloor heating and a hostel that sleeps 13. 

Exploring the community

If you want to get closer to the Outer Hebrides community there is no better way than to shop. In recent years community shops have sprung up; stocking fresh local produce, offering take-aways and hot drinks, typically with good-quality rather than low-frills ingredients. Many are punching their weight against fierce competition from online deliveries. What these shops also offer is the knowledge that your money is being reinvested locally. Their business models rely heavily on summer visitors to keep them open for the local community during the more fallow winter months. They work hard to keep their prices competitive with the supermarket chains as they want your custom, and this is reflected in the generally high standard of goods on sale.

Another way to experience community is to attend one of the many feisean (festivals). Farming shows and sporting challenges take place throughout the islands, along with mods – festivals of Gaelic song, arts and culture. Agricultural shows, with sheepdog trials and farmers’ produce for sale, offer good eye-openers into island farming life. The nature of some ‘annual’ events is that they prove popular for a few years then run out of steam and are quietly dropped from the calendar. An up-to-date list of regular and new events can be found here . 

Discover more of the Outer Hebrides with our guidebook, which has 10% off in our online store:

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Stories My Suitcase Could Tell

21 Must-Have Travel Experiences in the Outer Hebrides

May 11, 2016 By Katie MacLeod 40 Comments

There’s more to the Outer Hebrides than the guidebooks would have you believe – but don’t just take my word for it.  Visit these islands for yourself, and take this list of essential travel experiences with you!

See the sunset (or the Northern Lights) at the Callanish Stones.

The Callanish Stones are older than Stonehenge, and in my opinion, much more atmospheric.  From the air, the stones are laid out in the shape of a Celtic cross, and up close, you can admire their varying shapes and sizes.

As if the stones themselves weren’t enough, their location on the West Side of Lewis is stunning, offering panoramic views across hills and moorland.  Visit the stones at sunset, when the changing light makes the place seem almost magical; or brave the cold winter nights for a sighting of the Northern Lights dancing above the ancient pillars.

Walk on the Caribbean-esque beaches of West Harris.

Luskentyre, Seilebost, Horgabost, Scarista: the beaches on the west coast of Harris are regularly listed as some of the best in the UK (and even the world).  Once you’ve visited them, it’s easy to see why.  You’ll find pure white sand, azure seas, and the entire place all to yourself.  The only difficult part will be choosing which ones to spend your time at.  My advice? Stop at every single one.

Watch planes land on the beach at Barra Airport .

Barra Airport is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach runway.  Due to the tidal nature of the airport, the planes aren’t always on time – but watching one land on the sand is more than worth the wait.  If you want to fly into the airport yourself (and who wouldn’t?), FlyBe offer a £75 day return ticket for tourists travelling to Barra from Glasgow. You can bet it’s on my bucket list!

Sail to St Kilda , the ‘islands at the edge of the world.’

The isolated archipelago of St Kilda lies 40 miles west of the Outer Hebrides, and is home to the highest sea cliffs in Britain – not to mention some of the largest wild bird populations in Europe (hello, pufflings!).  The last inhabitants were evacuated in 1930, and their abandoned village feels weighted with history.  This double World Heritage site is unlike anywhere else on earth, and visiting St Kilda with Sea Harris in 2014 remains one of my all-time favourite travel experiences.

Enjoy a dram (and some scones) at the Harris Distillery in Tarbert.

The Isle of Harris Distillers Ltd only opened in the autumn of 2015, and it’s already earned its spot on the must-visit list for tourists. Take a tour of the distillery to learn the ins and outs of the process, and to see just how intertwined with the local community this ‘social distillery’ is.  While the whisky is still in production, you can leave with a beautiful bottle of their Isle of Harris Gin (and a scone from the canteen – they’re the best I’ve ever tried!).

Taste Stornoway Black Pudding at the source.

Don’t think about the ingredients that go into making the (in)famous Stornoway Black Pudding – just eat it!  This delicious ‘blood sausage’ (known as a ‘marag’ in Gaelic ) is protected under EU law, and can be eaten in a myriad of ways.

I like mine sliced and fried on a breakfast roll with some rashers of bacon and a potato scone (the perfect way to start the weekend), but I’ve also enjoyed it deep fried in small nibbles and served as a starter with seaweed and chilli sauce, at Hotel Hebrides in Harris. Everyone has their own favourite supplier, so make your way into any of the butchers in Stornoway to buy a marag straight from the source.

Smell the peat smoke at the Arnol Blackhouse.

My Dad loves to tell the story of the first time I visited the Arnol Blackhouse, a traditional thatched Lewis house typical of those lived in until the early 20 th century. Right in the middle of the stone floor is a peat fire, with a kettle dangling on a chain over it – I thought it smelled marvellous, and asked why we didn’t live in a house like this.

Unsurprisingly, most visitors to this museum take a slightly different view of the smell.  Peat smoke aside, the Arnol Blackhouse is a fascinating insight into a long-gone way of life in the islands.

Feast on a 40 North Foods picnic at Dal Beg Beach.

Everything at 40 North Foods – a small, takeaway only, croft-to-table food business – is out-of-this-world delicious.  Whether you opt for a salad box filled with a variety of smoked meats (and maybe some actual salad), or one of the freshly made sandwiches, there’s plenty to choose from for your picnic.

If you can refrain from tucking in straight away, drive ten minutes further down the road until you reach the signs for Dal Beg, where you can find a chair-shaped stone on the beach and enjoy your lunch to the soundtrack of pounding waves.

Invest in some Harris Tweed, the champagne of fabrics.

Harris Tweed is the only textile protected by an Act of Parliament: only tweed that has been hand woven by weavers in their homes in the Hebrides can be designated Harris Tweed.  The depth of colour is achieved by dying the wool first, and then weaving it into lengths of material that is transformed into everything from Chanel jackets to hotel furnishings.

The tweed mills don’t (usually) offer tours to the public, but you can get your shopping fix in Stornoway (at the Harris Tweed Hebrides flagship store, or quirky independent designer By Rosie), or in Tarbert at the Harris Tweed Shop.

Indulge in luxurious isolation at The Broch at Borve Lodge.

This luxurious self-catering property in Borve on the Isle of Harris is the definition of secluded.  Created for couples, and built in the style of an Iron Age broch, the tower blends perfectly into the landscape, making it easy to miss from the road.  Inside, you’ll find high-end touches like under-floor heating, slate counter tops, and a four-poster bed that sits below a skylight – perfect for star gazing before drifting off to sleep. (I stayed here for a ‘ holiday at home ‘ a few years ago, and it was absolute bliss.)

Get a taste of the crofting life at Air an Lot in Ness.

Crofting was once a way of life for every family in the islands; these days, the number of crofters is smaller, but they’re no less dedicated.  Domhnall ‘Sweeny’ MacSween opened up his croft in Ness in the north of Lewis to visitors, allowing them to get a hands-on experience of crofting, whether that’s peat cutting, feeding animals, or even clearing out the hen house!  Whatever your age, you’ll have a fun – and informative – crofting experience here.  (Just don’t drop the Air an Lot ducklings like I did!)

Meet the Lewis Chessmen in Uig.

While you can see a selection of the Lewis Chessmen in London’s British Museum , Edinburgh’s National Museum of Scotland, and now Stornoway’s Museum nan Eilean, a visit to the spot where the intricately carved ivory chess pieces were discovered in 1831 is worth the drive.

The tiny figures were found by a terrified crofter who thought he had stumbled across the fairies, and when you’ve experienced the strange but peaceful isolation in the sand dunes of Uig, you can begin to understand the poor man’s reaction.

(And if the giant oak statue of the chess King in Uig looks familiar, it’s because the Lewis Chessmen were the inspiration behind the wizard’s chessboard in the first Harry Potter film, the Philosopher’s Stone.)

Stroll around Stornoway Harbour.

On a sunny day, there are a few things more enjoyable than grabbing a takeaway coffee (and cake) from Delights, and crossing the road to stroll alongside Stornoway Harbour.  If you follow the pier out to the small footbridge at Bayhead Street and into the Castle Grounds, you’ll be rewarded with picturesque panoramic views of the harbour and the colourful shops that line it.

Cross the bridge over the Atlantic to Great Bernera.

Fancy driving across the Atlantic? Then look no further than the bridge between the Isle of Lewis and Great Bernera, which crosses a (very small) sliver of the ocean.  It was the first bridge of its kind in Europe, built in 1953 after pressure from Bernera residents.

But don’t stop once you’ve crossed over to the other side: drive a little further and you’ll be rewarded by the beauty of Bosta Beach, a sheltered shell-sand beach framed by dark rocks and green, green grass.

Keep an eye out for otters in Benbecula and Uist.

The Outer Hebrides are one of the best places in Europe to see the European Otter, and in the southern portion of the islands they’re so common that there are road signs warning of their presence.  You’ll have to drive slowly anyway, so why not stop the car at one of the many sea lochs to take a closer look?

Follow in the footsteps of Bonnie Prince Charlie in Eriskay.

Charles Edward Stuart (aka Bonnie Prince Charlie) may have left the Western Isles by going ‘over the sea to Skye’, but the first place he apparently set foot in Scotland was on this beach on the island of Eriskay.  Follow in his footsteps with a stroll on the beach, and then recharge at another storied spot, Am Politician.

The island pub is named after the cargo ship full of whisky that sank here during WWII, and caused all sorts of calamities. For a funny fictional account of the escapades that followed, read Whisky Galore by Compton Mazkenzie (or watch the new film when it comes out later this year).

Get acquainted with the wild ponies in Loch Skipport, South Uist.

I found out about these unbelievably friendly ponies by accident, and I’m so glad we turned off the main road to say hello to them.  The minute they spot you, the ponies will come running – and stick their noses right into the car, if given the chance!

Explore the sea stacs and caves of Garry Beach.

Garry Beach in Tolsta on the Isle of Lewis is a favourite among children – the many sea stacs and caves that are accessible when the tide is out bring to mind adventure stories of smugglers and pirates and 10-year-olds that save the day (can you tell I was bookworm growing up?).  It’s a great spot for big kids too, and when you tire of playing hide and seek between the rocks, there are a few picnic tables to rest and recuperate at.

Dance the night (and day) away at the Hebridean Celtic Festival.

The atmosphere that invades the streets of Stornoway at festival time is infectious. Known simply as ‘ HebCelt ‘, the annual summer music extravaganza sees tourists flock to the islands from across the country (and around the world).  But it’s not just the musical acts in the big top tent that draw the crowds, but those in the pubs – and even on the streets – of Stornoway.

Buy tickets for this, and prepare to ceilidh through all hours of the day and night! (This year, the line up is spectacular, with the likes of Runrig, Red Hot Chilli Pipers, and Julie Fowlis taking to the stage. Let’s just say I’m more than a little jealous of everyone heading to the tent this July!)

Discover the secrets of the Lews Castle Grounds on a Segway Tour.

Segways don’t always have the best reputation – but that’s from people who’ve never tried an off-road segway before.  Segway Hebrides operates out of the Woodlands Centre in Stornoway’s Castle Grounds, and their hardy segways take you on tours of the grounds, from rushing rivers to steep climbs on narrow woodland paths.  It was freezing cold, pouring with rain, and blowing a gale the day I went on a tour – and I still loved it, so I can only imagine how much fun it would be on a sunny day.

Conquer your fear of heights at the Butt of Lewis.

Admittedly, this is an experience I’ve only had once or twice in my life, as I have not conquered my fear of heights (which is why you see a photo of the sign for the Butt of Lewis, Rubha Robhanais, not the cliff edges themselves).

For visitors to the Outer Hebrides however, this is an incredible location to visit.  The most northerly point of the island chain is rocky and dramatic, with a lighthouse beaming out its warning from cliffs of about 80 feet high.  But don’t risk visiting on a bad day: in winter, wind speeds regularly reach more than 100mph.

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Which Outer Hebrides highlights would you like to experience the most? Are there any sights or activities you would add to the list?

Let me know in the comments below – i’d love to hear from you, if you enjoyed this, you might like:.

The Outer Hebrides Travel Guide

10 Books To Read Before Visiting Scotland’s Outer Hebrides

A Mini Travel Guide to Stornoway

May 11, 2016 at 2:40 am

I am sitting in my kitchen typing this on a flawless day with 20℃ anticipated again looking out over Bayble Bay at the Highlands of Scotland’s mainland. I am reminded that if you set off from your parents’ house and walk to the cairn on the hill to the South you can see from Ardnamurchan to Cape Wrath as well as most of the higher points of Lewis and Harris. It’s magical but I suspect relatively few people have ever seen that view. I think I would probably add to you list a climb of the Clisham: preferably on a good day so that one can see St Kilda. Perhaps for those less able (as I am at the moment) or with less inclination for a hike, a drive south down the East of South Harris and back up the West of South Harris to see countryside as varied and spectacular as even a day’s drive in New Zealand might offer. As you say the list of things to see on these magnificent Islands is endless.

May 11, 2016 at 9:52 am

Thanks for your comment, Graham 🙂 I’m very jealous of your current view! There’s nowhere like the islands on a sunny day! I think I’ve done that walk from Eagleton before, back in the days when we still did peats, so I was very young, but I remember feeling as if I could see everything from up there. And I’ve done the Clisham once – that would have been a good one for the list! It was at the start of summer in 2011 and the weather was absolutely perfect for it.

May 11, 2016 at 10:32 am

Really loved this blog I just viewed. A year ago I was excitedly anticipating a road trip around Scotland Mainland and the Hebrides Islands of Lewis, Harris and Skye. We did see many of the places you have included in this blog. Our vacation was so much more than we ever hoped we would see. The time went way too fast. After almost a year has passed I can not get Scotland out of my mind, so I totally love reliving our trip thru your beautiful blogs. Thank you so much for sharing with us who lives so far away. I am from Florida and my daughter Washington DC. We dream of visiting Scotland again someday to see more that we to pass by on the first visit.

May 12, 2016 at 7:49 am

Thanks Cindy! I am so happy to hear you loved your holiday to Scotland – and especially Lewis and Harris 🙂 I really hope you get to visit again sometime!

May 11, 2016 at 11:08 am

Great read, and love that you have such a varied lineup! I was born and brought up on Great Bernera so it was lovely seeing that it made the list, especially since it’s almost always overshadowed by Uig and its beautiful landscapes. Well done for making the effort and going for the less obvious attractions of home… keep up the great work!

May 12, 2016 at 7:52 am

Thanks so much Mairi! Great Bernera was a relatively recent visit for me. I’d been when I was in Primary School, on the school day out, but for whatever reasons I didn’t make it back again until summer 2014 – and Bosta just blew me away! I went back again when I was home in March, and even though the weather wasn’t great, it was still beautiful 🙂

May 11, 2016 at 12:48 pm

Katie…..loved this blog. Beautiful photography. No photos of Port of Ness Beach or the village which I miss so much. Perhaps your next visit…..LOL. Please try a visit to Northern Michigan someday. I think you would love it; our Great Lakes are like inland oceans…..not Ness, but I’ll take it in the meantime. Love your writing; keep traveling and writing; you are a very talented young lady. Regards,.

May 12, 2016 at 7:58 am

Thanks so much, Christine, I’m so glad you enjoyed it 🙂 Haha I do love Port of Ness – next time! I’d love to make it out to Michigan sometime. When I do I’ll be asking you for tips 🙂 !

May 11, 2016 at 4:02 pm

How very interesting and such gorgeous pics! I have always wanted to visit the Hebrides and Outer Hebrides…wow…seeing the sunset and Northern Lights at the Callanish Stones must be out of this world. So glad I discovered your blog.

May 12, 2016 at 7:59 am

Thank you Birgit! I hope you make it to the islands sometime soon 🙂

May 11, 2016 at 5:37 pm

Lovely blog Katie, good advert for our lovely island. Mind you, living in Bernera, I am a little biased! Love your photos too which show the fabulous colours and the fantastic light, the pattern and texture and the immense sky and sea that we are a part off.

May 12, 2016 at 8:01 am

Thanks so much, Ros! Glad you enjoyed it 🙂 I love the light at home – and it’s only when I’ve been away, and surrounded by skyscrapers, that I really appreciate how ‘big’ the sky really seems at home.

May 12, 2016 at 3:20 am

No mention of the Isle of scalpay , which is joined by a bridge between Harris and scalpay it boasts one of the first lighthouses built by the stevenson family of which Robert louie the author and a great little restaurant at the local community shop in North harbour. I hope you get a chance to visit us soon . P.s.the owner of the bistro

May 12, 2016 at 8:04 am

Hello George! Don’t worry, the Isle of Scalpay will be on the blog soon 🙂 The bistro actually came up in conversation with friends in Washington, D.C. this weekend – we popped in for lunch in March, and Mr. Stories My Suitcase Could Tell was saying it served the best seafood he’s ever had!

May 18, 2016 at 9:26 am

Your list is great. Here are a few of my other favourites: A trip with Seatrek. A walk down the Barvas Machair with a stop at the salmon pools. A night at the sheiling on the Barvas Moor. Cutting peats and waiting for your first smell of a peat fire after you get off the ferry. Gathering cockles in Uist. A drive around Grimosaigh. Fresh seafood from Kallin. Feeding pet lambs. Machair potatoes. A cup of tea and visit with relatives.

May 22, 2016 at 3:30 pm

Thanks for all these great suggestions, Janet! I used to love going to the peats when I was a child (although I didn’t have to do any of the hard work then!).

May 18, 2016 at 4:25 pm

Hi there for those who don’t have a car gordon of Harris365 is doing tours this year, a local man who also does photographs, he’ll take you to any of the iconic spots!

Thanks for that bit of info, Fi! I love Gordon’s photos – I bet his photo tours will be brilliant!

May 26, 2016 at 10:16 am

Yes to all of these! I would like – before we leave Scotland one day – to do a massive one month trip to the Outer Hebrides! I want to fly to Barra and do kite surfing, and I want to see those crystal water beaches, see the wild ponies, would love to stay in a blackhouse for a night, see the Callanish stones (and northern lights on top would be amazing!). I’ve recently invested in a handbag and purse made of harris tweed and I regret nothing. 😀

June 5, 2016 at 12:48 pm

A month would be perfect – especially in the summer! And I support you on the Harris Tweed purchase 100% haha – I have a Harris Tweed blazer I bought just before I moved to the US and I love it!

August 3, 2016 at 12:30 pm

Thank you for this & all your other writings on the Outer Hebrides Katie. Ive just booked up my 1st trip there next week & cannot wait,taking my 3yo boy(already completed a successful trial run to Arran!) From Ayrshire to Mallaig-Skye-Tarbert. 2 nights camping at Shawbost then back onto the mainland via Stornoway. A quick trip but will pack plenty in i’m sure & all being well (3year-old & weather) will stop off for a night somewhere on the way home.

August 3, 2016 at 6:12 pm

Thank you for the kind words, Alan! It sounds like you’ve got a great holiday planned – I hope you and your son have a wonderful time 🙂

August 4, 2016 at 11:08 am

If anyone is interested, there are camping pods available at Callanish that are a short walk away from the stones. This means you can spend as much time as you want there after all the tourist coaches have left.

August 4, 2016 at 9:57 pm

Thanks for sharing this, Paul – it sounds like it would be a great experience!

March 7, 2017 at 7:37 pm

Katie, Thanks for your blog, gives us great insight. My 3 time Great Grandfather (Ronald O’Handley), wife and 9 children left South Uist for Eastern Canada (PEI then CBI) in 1823 & as far as I know, none of us have been back. I’ve been thinking about a visit for some time so this kind of information & the comments it solicits are invaluable. Thanks again. Hugh

March 8, 2017 at 7:30 am

Thanks for your comment, Hugh, I’m so pleased the blog has been helpful for you. How interesting to hear that you have a connection to the islands – I’m sure you would love it if you visited 🙂

March 8, 2017 at 2:45 am

We’re hopefull to be there early May ..you’re blog has inspired us to just go !

March 8, 2017 at 7:33 am

Thank you Susan – I’m absolutely delighted to hear that! That really means so much to me. I hope you have an amazing time!

March 8, 2017 at 3:17 pm

A really comprehensive list! We spent a week touring the Outer Hebrides several years ago and your blog really captures the magic of the islands. Must think about another visit soon!

March 9, 2017 at 7:30 am

Thanks so much for your lovely comment Nigel! I hope you get back to visit soon 🙂

May 9, 2017 at 12:17 pm

So many awesome things! I honestly think Stonehenge is so overrated when you’ve got the Callanish Stones and even the Ring Of Brodgar here. Interestingly, I just googled a couple of things because I’m sure the cliffs on one of Orkney’s islands is the highest in the UK. Guess what? Both of them have that description! But I think the one here is the highest vertical. Think I’d definitely get some vertigo with both of them, anyway!

A lot of things sound similar to Orkney, although that’s unsurprising really. I definitely need to visit!!

Interesting fact about that chess king, too! 🙂

May 9, 2017 at 2:49 pm

I’m happy to hear someone else agrees me about Stonehenge being overrated haha! I’d love to see the Ring of Brodgar (although I’d probably have to keep away from those cliffs!). I bet there are quite a few similarities between the islands. My brother lives in the north of Scotland now, so I need to make it over to Orkney one of these days!

September 17, 2017 at 5:33 pm

This post has me so excited for my upcoming trip to the Outer Hebrides. Basing myself in Finsbay, Isle of Harris and have 10 days to explore the islands. This will be my 5th trip to Scotland, but my first to the Outer Hebrides

October 2, 2017 at 3:11 pm

I’m so glad it’s helped you get ready for your trip, Jill! Harris is beautiful, and with 10 days you’ll have lots of time to explore all the other islands, too!

October 2, 2017 at 7:23 pm

Katie..what a wonderful blog..the way you describe the Outer Hebrides..my wife are visiting them soon…and can only say..we just cannot wait to see the beauty you describe….thank you…its been a pleasure to read…

October 3, 2017 at 8:03 am

Thank you Stanley, I’m so happy to hear you’ve enjoyed reading the blog. I hope you and your wife have a wonderful time in the islands!

May 13, 2018 at 4:33 am

Hi Katie what a great read that was. I’m a Scot living abroad in Australia. I’m coming home for a month and will be campervanning around the Outer Hebrides. I’ve jotted down your great suggestions and make sure I’ll be seeing them all. Thank you!

December 5, 2019 at 9:03 am

And its 2019, Almost 2020 already! Still a ggreat article! Proud to say: been there, done that, except for The hebceltfestival. And going back as soon As I can. How are you doing nowadays? Any new stories About the OH? Kind regards! ?????????

January 1, 2020 at 4:54 am

Either at the Butt of Lewis or at Tumpain Head take time (perhaps with a picnic lunch or flask of soup, or bottle of beer) to watch for the abundance of cetaceans that visit the area. Check out the Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust website hwdt.org and WhaleTrail for more information about what you might see, and for other well known hotspots.

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Best places to see the Northern Lights around the world – and when to visit

O ne of the world’s most famous natural sights, the Northern Lights attract people to areas around the Arctic in hopes of seeing the rare display.

Caused by the redirection of particles from the sun that hit the Earth’s atmosphere, the stunning atmospheric phenomenon is seen as the Holy Grail of skywatching and mostly occurs in areas around Norway , Finland , Sweden and Greenland.

The lights can be seen in other parts of the world; the UK has even had sightings in Scotland, Merseyside and Wales this winter during a period of heightened geomagnetic activity.

Unfortunately, such sightings are rare and most people wanting to see the aurora borealis (the scientific name for the phenomenon, coined by Galileo Galilei) will have to travel further north.

To help you in your quest to see the spectacular light show, we’ve put together a list of the best places for seeing the Northern Lights and when to go to maximise your chances.

Read more on travel inspiration :

• Ghostbusters is turning 40 – so I explored the streets of New York like one
• Where’s hot in June? Best destinations for summer sun to escape the crowds
• Barcelona for Valencia and other holiday swaps to make to avoid the crowds

Tromso, Norway

Tromso sits at the centre of the Northern Lights’ oval, meaning that the lights can be visible even when activity is low. According to the tourism website, Tromso is “one of the places in the world with the highest probability of seeing the lights”, and there is “always a good chance of seeing” them between September and April.

Temperatures are moderated by the Norwegian Sea and westerly winds, meaning that they are much milder than usual for the latitude, with averages of between 2C and -1C during peak viewing times (compared to Svalbard, where the average January high is -13C).

When to visit Tromso

Your best chance of seeing the lights in Tromso is between September and April, when the skies are dark enough for them to be visible.

Svalbard, Norway

This Norwegian archipelago is home to more polar bears than people and experiences harsh winters, with the sun not properly rising over the horizon between mid-November and mid-January.

While the islands do not experience total darkness (and therefore you aren’t guaranteed to see the lights), the main island, Spitsbergen, hosts several different types of expedition to give you the best chance of catching the phenomenon. If you’re lucky, you may even see some polar wildlife such as reindeer, Arctic foxes and walruses too.

When to visit Svalbard

The lights season here is slightly shorter than in Tromso, running from September until the middle of March. The best time of day to try and see the lights is between 6pm and midnight.

Rovaniemi, Finland

Located in Finnish Lapland, Rovaniemi markets itself as the ‘Official Home of Santa Claus’ and contains a Santa Claus Village and Santa Park. The Northern Lights are visible here on “around 150 nights a year” from August, and the tourism websites provides ideas for nearby locations to view them.

Among its suggestions are the Arctic Garden (a 10-minute walk away) and the top of Ounasvaara fell (a longer, 45-minute walk from the town). Among other snow-based activities – such as sledding – you can join snowmobile trips and ice floating tours as special ways to enjoy the lights.

When to visit Rovaniemi

Rovaniemi is one destination where the lights season is exceptionally long, running from late August to early April. However, the best time to visit is during the Polar Night period, from mid-November to mid-January.

Reykjavik, Iceland

Iceland is located roughly 65 degrees north, making the country an excellent option for those trying to see the Northern Lights. They can be viewed in several locations, such as Thingvellir National Park or Kirkjufell Mountain, but the best place to stay when visiting has to be Reykjavik . The Icelandic capital is a typical Nordic city in style and acts as an excellent base for seeing the natural sights of the country in the day before going on a guided trip to see the lights by night.

When to visit Reykjavik

Iceland has a fairly typical length to its lights season, running from September to April.

Abisko, Sweden

Situated in Swedish Lapland, right at the heart of the aurora oval, Abisko National Park receives no light pollution and has one of the lowest rainfall climates in the Nordic area. With many surrounding mountains to keep the skies clear, Abisko also offers the chance to try out several activities such as snowmobiling, fishing and hiking.

The Aurora Sky Station markets itself as “the best place on Earth to experience Northern Lights”, but it seems that this confidence isn’t unfounded: if you were to stay for three nights in Abisko, you’d have an 88 per cent chance of seeing the lights, while the government website also claims that the area sometimes receives “more than two weeks of consecutive northern lights nights”.

When to visit Abisko

Maximise your chances of catching the lights by visiting between mid-September and early March.

Yukon, Canada

With a land area of 483,450sqkm, the Yukon is a vast region which is almost as large as the entirety of Spain. Roughly 80 per cent of the territory is wilderness; it’s home to the longest river in Canada , the second tallest peak in North America (Mount Logan, at 5,959m high), the smallest desert in the world (Carcross, at 1.6sqkm) and dozens of animal species, from moose to brown bears.

With this in mind, while exploring on your own may be tempting, when it comes to viewing the lights you’re best off booking a tour. It’s a good idea to base yourself in Whitehorse (the capital, with a population of just over 28,000), where guided tours will take you to nearby spots to give you the best chance of seeing the light show.

When to visit Yukon

Another place with a lights season lasting nearly eight months, Yukon’s most active time for light displays is between October and mid-November.

Ilulissat, Greenland

The most sparsely populated country in the world, Greenland offers the chance to see the lights with uninterrupted calm and tranquility. With a population of just under 5,000 people, Ilulissat is “rich in Inuit history” and is home to “millions of icebergs”. Low levels of light pollution and many clear nights will offer a good chance of seeing the lights during your stay.

With a population of just over 500, locations such as Kangerlussuaq also offer good opportunities to see the lights but may be too remote for some.

With three new airports coming to the island , access will soon be easier than ever.

When to visit Ilulissat

Along with the rest of Greenland, Ilulissat has a fairly typical season, lasting from September to March.

Outer Hebrides, Scotland

Home to “some of the darkest skies in the UK”, some of the islands in the Outer Hebrides sit on the same latitude as parts of Norway and Alaska . The aurora has been seen as far south as Edinburgh , but the islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra are your best chance for seeing the lights in the UK .

More accessible than most of the other locations on this list, the islands are also generally an excellent spot for seeing different astronomical sights, such as the Orion Nebula, the Milky Way and the Andromeda Galaxy.

When to visit the Outer Hebrides

Lights season in these islands runs from September to April, although the best time to see the lights is during the Equinox and Solstice, so between March and April and September and October respectively.

Fairbanks, Alaska, USA

The second largest city (by population) in Alaska, Fairbanks is situated near the centre of the state and is home to just over 32,000 people. Located on a similar latitude to Iceland, conditions here are perfect for viewing the lights: dark skies, dry conditions and a lack of light pollution.

One of the main benefits of Fairbanks (versus some other locations on the list) is the fact that you don’t even have to leave the city to see the lights, and as a major settlement, all the necessary amenities are available alongside the many tours on offer.

When to visit Fairbanks

The season here lasts slightly longer than usual, stretching from late August to April.

Finnish Lapland

While Rovaniemi has already been mentioned on this list, there are so many worthy destinations in Finnish Lapland that the entire area has to be recommended. Levi is the largest ski resort in Finland but is less crowded than other European resorts, and offers the chance to see the lights on snowmobiles or on reindeer-drawn sleighs. Harriniva is another resort that offers similar activities, with the Muonio River adding another scenic touch. Saariselka offers a different, village setting with excellent spots for viewing the lights only half a kilometre away.

When to visit Finnish Lapland

The official Finnish tourism website states that the best times to see the lights are in autumn and spring, at the beginning and the end of the season, with the season itself running from mid-August until early April.

Seeking a digital detox? Here’s how to go phone-free in Finland

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