tourist map shetland islands

Map of the Shetland Islands — Best attractions, restaurants, and transportation info

What’s on this map.

We’ve made the ultimate tourist map of Shetland Islands, United Kingdom for travelers! Check out the Shetland Islands’s top things to do, attractions, restaurants, and major transportation hubs all in one interactive map.

Visiting Shetland Islands? See our Shetland Islands Trip Planner.

How to use the map

Use this interactive map to plan your trip before and while in the Shetland Islands. Learn about each place by clicking it on the map or read more in the article below. Here’s more ways to perfect your trip using our the Shetland Islands map:

• Explore the best restaurants, shopping, and things to do in the Shetland Islands by categories
• Get directions in Google Maps to each place
• Export all places to save to your Google Maps
• Plan your travels by turning on metro and bus lines
• Create a Wanderlog trip plan (link to create a trip plan for the city) that keep all the places on the map in your phone
• Print a physical map to bring it on your trip

Top 18 attractions in the Shetland Islands

Shetland museum & archives, sumburgh head lighthouse, visitor centre & nature reserve.

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Jarlshof Prehistoric and Norse Settlement

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• the Shetland Islands
• Musselburgh
• Milton Bridge
• Burntisland
• South Queensferry
• Newtongrange
• Dalgety Bay
• North Queensferry
• Prestonpans
• Inverkeithing
• Cowdenbeath

All related maps of the Shetland Islands

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the Shetland Islands throughout the year

• the Shetland Islands in January
• the Shetland Islands in February
• the Shetland Islands in March
• the Shetland Islands in April
• the Shetland Islands in May
• the Shetland Islands in June
• the Shetland Islands in July
• the Shetland Islands in August
• the Shetland Islands in September
• the Shetland Islands in October
• the Shetland Islands in November
• the Shetland Islands in December

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• Shetland Islands

• 1 Islands and towns
• 2 Other destinations
• 3.1 Visitor information
• 4.1 By plane
• 4.2 By boat
• 5.1 By plane
• 5.2 By boat
• 5.5 By bike
• 12 Stay safe

The Shetland Islands are the most northerly part of the United Kingdom, a group of islands 100 miles (160 km) north of mainland Scotland . The largest town, Lerwick , is closer to Norway than to Edinburgh, and culturally and geographically they feel more Norse than Scottish. They're low-lying and treeless, divided by long fjords ("voes") and sparsely populated, but prosperous thanks to the oil industry.

Islands and towns

Mainland is the main island in the group, with most of the population. To avoid ambiguity, on this and related pages the term Mainland, cap "M", refers to this island, while the landmass of Great Britain to the south is referred to as the Scottish mainland, small "m". The chief settlements on Mainland are:

• 60.1444 -1.1736 2 Sound – a small town to the south-west of Lerwick
• 60.137 -1.275 3 Scalloway is a small town on the west coast six miles from Lerwick. Until 1708 it was the island's capital. It has a castle and museum, plus a marina, shops and accommodation.
• Trondra, West Burra and East Burra are three islands nowadays connected to Scalloway by road, becoming part of Mainland.
• 60.3957 -1.35023 5 Brae is where the main road crosses "Mavis Grind", the neck of land across to Northmavine, the northwest part of Mainland.
• 60.467 -1.275 6 Sullom Voe is an inlet with a large oil terminal. Gas and some of the oil is brought ashore by pipeline, but most of the oil comes by shuttle tankers from the fields. It's a storage facility, with no refineries, and other tankers carry the crude oil and gas onward.
• 60.47645 -1.48833 7 Hillswick has wildlife, high sea cliffs, and true Arctic tundra. A little way south, the island of Muckle Roe has been linked by road to Mainland.
• 60.23 -1.56 8 Walls in the west of Mainland has Staneydale Temple, a Neolithic structure.
• 59.8667 -1.28333 9 Sumburgh : flights from the Scottish mainland land here, 25 miles south of Lerwick. It has the prehistoric and Norse settlement of Jarlshof, and an RSPB reserve on Sumburgh Head.

The other inhabited islands are:

• 60.146 -1.08 10 Bressay is just east of Lerwick. It provides access to the nature reserve and spectacular sea-cliffs on the island of Noss .
• 60.622778 -1.1 11 Yell is the second largest island, linked by short ferry crossings to Mainland to the south, Unst to the north, and Fetlar to the east.
• 60.75 -0.89 12 Unst is the most northerly inhabited island in Scotland and the United Kingdom. It has Viking heritage, unspoilt scenery, and the Hermaness nature reserve where thousands of seabirds nest.
• 60.6 -0.86 13 Fetlar is divided by the curious Funzie Girt, a Neolithic stone wall.
• 60.33144 -1.672882 14 Papa Stour to the northwest of Mainland has great sea-cliffs, arches and "gloups".
• 60.341872 -1.028425 16 Whalsay is a fishing and crofting island that few visit.
• 60.417 -0.767 17 Out Skerries are smaller islands to the northeast.
• 59.534 -1.629 18 Fair Isle midway between Orkney and Shetland, and 60.1333 -2.0667 19 Foula away west, vie for the title of Britain's most remote inhabited island. By most definitions, Fair Isle edges it.

Other destinations

Shetland is 60 degrees north, on the same latitude as Hudson Bay and the Yukon. It’s windy! In mid-summer the day is almost 20 hours long, with only a brief “simmer dim” before sunrise. You can easily get sunburnt, not noticing the sun in the cool breeze, in between getting drenched by showers. Winter days are short, gloomy affairs.

Shetland was settled from prehistoric times and because there were few trees, dwellings had to be made of stone. So these have survived better than elsewhere: Jarlshof dates back to 2500 BC. From 800 AD Shetland came under Viking rule, and (as in Orkney) this lasted until 1472 when the northern islands were ceded to Scotland. The people spoke “Norn”, a North Germanic / Scandinavian language which only died out in 1850 - this news failed to reach the remote island of Foula, where one native speaker was still alive in the 1920s. The culture was never Gaelic, but Norse, and this lives on in place names, traditions such as Up Helly Aa, the style of music, and the local dialect — see Shetland ForWirds . And a medieval transcription error changed Hjaltland into “Zetland”, so these islands became Britain’s most northerly misprint.

Shetland was transformed by North Sea oil in the 1970s. A huge oil terminal was built at Sullom Voe near Brae on Mainland. Oil money halted population decline and boosted the economy, so roads and other infrastructure are good and unemployment is low. As oil stocks decline, Shetland is turning back to crofting and fishing: there are many fish farms in the sheltered voes. Tourism also grew: Shetland has good air and car ferry connections, and Lerwick is a regular port of call for cruise ships.

There are over 100 islands, with Mainland and ten others inhabited. Several others have been linked by road, to become part of Mainland, and there are some natural causeways: Mavis Grind is not a fearsome barmaid but the strip to the northwest peninsula of Northmavine. Nine of the ten outliers have a ferry service, and Noss and Mousa are uninhabited but routinely visited by boat trips. A couple of others have no residents but the land agents haven’t totally despaired of attracting a wealthy new owner to re-build the derelict farm cottage: scan the upmarket property magazines for places you could be lord of, for the same price as a two-bedroom terraced house in London.

Visitor information

Shetland has few international links so you need to travel via the Scottish mainland.

Sumburgh Airport ( LSI  IATA ) is at Sumburgh on the south tip of Shetland Mainland, 25 miles south of Lerwick. Loganair fly here from Aberdeen , Edinburgh , Glasgow and Inverness on the Scottish mainland, from Kirkwall in Orkney, and from Bergen in Norway. Loganair are a full-service airline, with 20-kg checked baggage included in the fare; they use medium-sized twin-prop aircraft, e.g., the Saab 340. There are also flights within the Shetland Islands, see "Get around".

Sumburgh's terminal is small, with a café/bar, shop, wi-fi Internet and ATM. An hour before flight is fine for check-in, as neither security nor retailing are as overgrown as in large mainland airports. One runway crosses the main road A970, so this is closed whenever a flight is coming in or taking off. Pick up and drop off by car is free but airport parking is charged.

Car hire is available at the airport from Star Rent a Car or Bolts Car Hire . These also act for the major companies (Avis, Hertz) that you may choose to book through. Their depots are off-site, so they'll meet you and transfer you to your car. They only have small fleets so book in advance.

Taxis: all the Lerwick-based taxi firms serve the airport, plus Boddam Cabs +44 1950 460111 and Sumburgh Airport Taxis +44 1950 460560. In 2021 the fare between airport and Lerwick was about £55.

Bus 6 runs from Sumburgh airport and village to Lerwick, daily every 90 min, taking one hour: see South Mainland bus timetable .

Scatsta airport near Sullom Voe oil terminal doesn't have commercial flights, it's only used to bring in oil workers from Aberdeen. They then wriggle into their survival gear and transfer to helicopters for the oil rigs out in the North Sea.

Lerwick Tingwall airport only has inter-island flights, see "Get around".

Northlink Ferries sail every night between Aberdeen and Lerwick . On four nights the journey is non-stop, leaving at 7PM to arrive for 7:30AM in both directions.

The other three nights per week, the ferry also calls at Kirkwall in the Orkney Islands. On those nights it sails around 5PM to make the extra stop and reach its final destination at the usual time. See Kirkwall#Get in for need-to-know info about the Aberdeen-Kirkwall and Kirkwall-Lerwick services.

In Aberdeen follow signs to the harbour, which is next to Union Street railway and bus stations. You're aiming for the big white ship with a blue hairy-scary Viking on its side. Follow the relevant signs for foot passengers or queuing vehicles. They may ask for photo ID, and hand you a disclaimer stating that you're travelling at your own risk: the crossing can be rough.

On board, the cabins are small but have decent bunks with private toilet and shower. Or you can sleep in the reclining aircraft-style seats in the lounge, or stretch out on the couches in the bar once it has closed. If you take a sleeping bag and pillow, you'll have to carry them around as staff won't let you leave them unattended. There's no access to vehicles once at sea, so you need to gather up all your kit and caboodle before locking up and going upstairs.

The ferry is comfy and well equipped. There are two bars, a self-service restaurant, and a table-service restaurant. There's also a cinema, though if it is rough, watching a film in a dark room is a good recipe for sea-sickness. The ship's interior is all non-smoking, but there is an outside deck where you can smoke. If the weather is fair, there may be access to the upper deck until late at night, and again early morning as you approach Lerwick.

Arrival in Shetland is announced at 6:30AM and the self-service restaurant opens for breakfast. The ferry docks at 7:30AM, and drivers must leave promptly to move their cars, but (with their boarding pass) may return on board for breakfast. They, along with non-drivers and foot passengers, may remain on the ship until 9AM. In any case have your boarding pass ready when you disembark, as they check for fare-dodgers. The ferry terminal is at Holmsgarth a mile north of the centre of Lerwick and pre-booked hire cars can be collected at the terminal.

Fares vary by season, but in 2024 you might pay £33 per adult, £16 per child and £131 per car each way. Reserving a reclining seat is £3.50, while twin cabins start from £80 pp. Book early in summer because vehicle capacity and cabins sell out.

ZetTrans is Shetland's transport partnership for all modes of public transport. Shetland Travel Information has timetables for buses, inter-island ferries and inter-island plane flights.

Buses to Scalloway and Brae run past Tingwall airport every hour or two, but you're better taking a taxi.

The inhabited islands are served by ferries run by Shetland Islands Council — Calmac don't operate up here. The short crossing from Lerwick to Bressay can't be booked, and booking is seldom necessary for Yell, Unst, Fetlar or Whalsay - you'll want a car on all of these. There may not be many sailings, but they do sail early and late to enable residents to day-trip either direction. Visitors' vehicles can't be taken to Foula or Fair Isle: occasional contractors' vehicles have to be precariously loaded and unloaded by crane, with the stomach-churning 3-hour crossing enlivened by the continual shrilling of the van alarm.

Check the display board at Lerwick harbour (or online or by enquiry at the ferry office) before setting out if the weather is doubtful. Ferries may be cancelled for days on end, leaving you stranded among the seagulls. Or they may switch ports, for instance the ferries to Whalsay and Out Skerries normally sail from Laxo, but in high winds they sail from Vidlin.

The roads are in excellent condition. A-roads connect Sumburgh Airport with Lerwick, Scalloway, the ferry pier for Yell and Unst (and across those islands), and the Northmavine peninsula. They are mostly two lanes, but in Northmavine and on the B-roads they are mostly single track. Traffic is very light, apart from "Lerwick rush hour" which is more like 15 min around 9AM and 5PM, and a little surge around ferry sailings. If you're taking it slow to admire the scenery, pull into a passing place to let others overtake. Do wave thank-you to drivers from the other direction who pull in to let you go by, especially if you suspect they were expecting you to be the one to give way.

There are no fixed speed cameras, but the police enforce speed limits especially in built-up areas, and are always vigilant for drink- or drugged-driving.

Petrol and diesel is widely available, although there are few filling stations outside Lerwick. Reckon to pay 10p per litre more than in mainland Scotland.

Car hire is available from:

• Bolts Car Hire , 26 North Road, Lerwick ZE1 OPE , ☏ +44 1595 693636 . Also at Sumburgh, Tingwall & Scatsta airports and Lerwick ferry terminal, and act for the national companies. ( updated Aug 2019 )
• Star Rent a Car , 22 Commercial Road, Lerwick ZE1 0LX , ☏ +44 1595 692075 . Min driver age 21. They're also at Sumburgh, Tingwall and Scatsta airports and Lerwick ferry terminal, and act for the national companies. ( updated Aug 2019 )
• Grantfield Garage , North Road, Lerwick ZE1 0NT , ☏ +44 1595 692709 , [email protected] . Also at Sumburgh airport and Lerwick ferry terminal. ( updated Aug 2019 )

Lerwick Viking bus station is Shetland's transport hub. Buses run hourly to Scalloway and every 90 min to two hours to Sumburgh village and airport. Other destinations including the north tip of Unst only have 3 or 4 M-Sa and nothing on Sunday. They're timed so that villagers can get into Lerwick, do what they need to and get home that afternoon. A day-trip out from Lerwick may not be practical, but see individual villages' "Get in" for options.

It's a big place, with gradients and stiff breezes, so allow plenty of time. Shetland isn't on the National Cycle Network and has no off-road trails, but the roads have only light traffic. An itinerary over several days might follow the main road up to Yell and Unst, then returning south with Mainland loops west through Brae and Bixter eventually to Sumburgh.

• Shetland Museum and Archives in Lerwick is a good start, with excellent displays on the geology, natural environment, and long history of these islands.
• Up Helly Aa Exhibition in Lerwick . Each February the "guizers" start building a Viking longship, and by June the work in progress is on display, along with displays about the festival. Several places in Shetland have Up Helly Aa events, but by far the biggest and most spectacular is in Lerwick, with a grand costumed torchlight procession culminating in burning the longship. It's nowadays held on the last Tuesday in January.
• Prehistoric sites: the standout is Jarlshof in Sumburgh , inhabited from 2500 BC into early modern times. Other notable examples are Old Scatness (also near Sumburgh), Mousa Broch an Iron Age tower on Mousa, reached by boat from Sandwick (Mainland), Stanydale Temple a few miles east of Walls , and Clickimin Broch at the south edge of Lerwick .
• Historic sites include the Crofthouse Museum and Quendale Watermill near Sumburgh . The castles are variously smashed up, derelict or beyond ruin, so you visit them for the picturesque view: the best is in Scalloway .
• Wildlife: always keep your eyes open for this, and also watch out for sheep and Shetland ponies which may roam free on the little island roads.

• Most northerly this & that: taking the main road north brings you to a short ferry crossing to the island of Yell , then from the north tip of Yell to Unst , the most northerly inhabited island of Britain. It's an easy day-trip by car. Any feature here can reasonably be described as "the most northerly X in Britain". The most northerly bus-stop is nothing special, but "Bobby's bus stop" a little way south is certainly worth seeing. The highlight is Hermaness, a nature reserve where sea birds wheel above the cliffs.
• Dramatic coastlines: all over Shetland but especially the cliffs and sea stacks of Hermaness ( Unst ), Eshaness (near Hillswick on Mainland), Noss ( Bressay ), Sumburgh head at the south tip of Mainland, and wild, lonely Foula . These are all great locations for sea birds, especially in the nesting season early summer.
• Tourist-free islands: the three small islands to the northeast don't have "sights" or visitor amenities, but come here for a glimpse of traditional ways of life based on crofting and fishing. To reach Fetlar see Yell .
• Beaches are often beautiful, deserted and look tropical, until you wade in for a swim - yikes it's cold! Consider bringing a wetsuit (at least 5mm), which will make snorkelling less of an ordeal.
• The Simmer Dim and "almost midnight sun": Shetland is 60 o North, so it's not in the Arctic Circle and doesn't have a true midnight sun. Nevertheless in June it will be almost 11PM when the sun sets, though that's really 10PM UT/GMT with daylight saving. It never goes properly dark, just dim, in summer, so at midnight it's light enough to play golf, but not necessarily light enough to find your ball in a thicket. The downside is that you can't skywatch, e.g. for the Northern Lights , as it's much too bright.
• Dark night skies: Nov-Mar is the time for these, though you have to be lucky with the weather, and dress very warmly. Get away from the town lights and give your eyes 15 min to adjust, and the Milky Way and other objects will swim into view.

• Sea kayaking hire and guided tours are available from Sea Kayak Shetland . They're based in Frakkafield north of Lerwick, with access to either coast according to sea conditions.
• Wildlife watching boat trips: various operators but a good one is Seabirds and Seals , with tickets available from the Tourist Information Centre in Lerwick . One popular trip, combining a short sailing time with a spectacular result, is to Bressay and Noss. The lie of the land means that shore-based visitors can get a good view of Noss but find it difficult to approach the sea cliffs of Bressay, so a boat gives a better view. It's a small boat so on a windy day, be prepared for a heaving, bouncy trip.
• Sport and leisure facilities are dotted around Shetland, where you can swim, sauna, play squash or join a fitness class. There are several golf courses.
• Traditional music: Shetland's fiddle music has more than stood its ground against modern styles and is promoted in schools. You'll find it in many venues.
• Say hi to Shetland ponies , they seem to appreciate this, but don't feed them. About 1000 live here. In the 19th century they were bred to work down coal mines, with a large stud farm on Bressay .
• Tune in to local media for a refreshing local take on life. The Shetland Times is published on Fridays, while Shetland Life and i,i Shetland are monthly. BBC Radio Shetland is on 92.7 FM and SIBC is on 96.2 FM. Plus you can get all the standard terrestrial and satellite TV channels, and national newspapers on the day of publication, with all the familiar depressing stuff that you came to Shetland to get away from.

• Up Helly Aa is last Tuesday in January, see above. The next is 28 Jan 2025.
• Shetland Folk Festival is end of April to early May, with performances in halls and pubs all over Mainland and the outlying islands.
• Shetland Wool Week , various venues, covers the process from sheep-rearing through spinning, dyeing, weaving and knitting in late September.
• Accordion and Fiddle Festival is in early October.
• See Lerwick#Do for events based there.

Knitware: Shetland Sheep provide fine, multi-coloured wool which is knitted locally into a variety of garments. Particularly fine (and expensive) is patterned knitwear created straight from the undyed natural colours of the sheep. Best known is the "Fair Isle" pattern, but Unst also has beautiful wares.

Shetland cuisine is heavily based on the excellent local seafood , together with local lamb . Milk and dairy products are produced on Shetland, as is some beef. One local speciality is reestit mutton which is salted, dried meat often served with bannocks or as part of a potato soup. Some fruit & veg are grown in the islands, but much has to be imported.

Most eating-out places are in Lerwick. Out of town the best dining is in the local hotels - see individual pages.

There are two good supermarkets in Lerwick, and local shops in other villages.

In summer there are Sunday Teas in local village halls, with good home baking. Proceeds generally go to charity.

The Shetland Distillery Company in Unst produces gin and blended malt whisky.

There are several lively bars and even a nightclub in Lerwick . Outside the capital, bars are in local hotels.

There is an off-licence in Lerwick and alcohol is sold in supermarkets and local shops.

The legal drinking age is 18 (16 for accompanied minors drinking beer or cider with a meal). Proof of age is often demanded of those who appear to be under 25.

Camping Böds provide very basic self-catering accommodation. There are nine of these across Shetland, which must be booked through the Shetland Amenity Trust in Lerwick ( ☏ +44 1595 694688 ). Costs about £10 per person per night.

The greatest choice of accommodation of all standards is in Lerwick, so this is the obvious base for the visitor.

For emergency services (police, ambulance, fire & rescue, coastguard) ring 999. The National Health Service provides health care here on the same basis as elsewhere in Britain; the emergency hospital is the Gilbert Bain in Lerwick, and GPs in these parts are well versed in dealing with health problems far from city back-up.

You will be very unlucky to be mugged, robbed or threatened, though there's the occasional unpleasant drunk in Lerwick. The main hazards are natural: cold and rain, rough seas with strong currents, and lots of steep slippery slopes above unfenced cliffs. Seabirds, especially Bonxies (great skuas), will attack if you approach their nests in the breeding season. Keep to the paths, and wave a stick above your head if they start to dive-bomb you — they'll go for the high point rather than your scalp.

All major mobile phone networks are available in Shetland, though coverage for most tends to be a bit patchy (or in some cases non-existent) outside Lerwick . If your mobile does not work there are telephone boxes in most villages, and cards for these are available in newsagents and supermarkets.

Fast broadband is available over most of the islands, although in remote areas it is restricted by distance from the telephone exchange. Pay for use internet access is available in the Tourist Information Centre in Lerwick and some hotels and other locations.

Local government services are provided by Shetland Islands Council .

Electricity voltage and adaptors are UK standard.

To the Orkney Islands , or back to mainland Scotland, by ferry or air.

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☰ JIMMY PEREZ’S SHETLAND

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Scroll the map to see all the places where the books are set.

Visit Shetland have prepared a guide to help you explore the Shetland islands in the footsteps of Jimmy Perez; they have very kindly allowed us to reproduce their map, showing some of the central locations of Ann Cleeves' books. Move your cursor over the map for more information. (Or see Visit Shetland's Jimmy Perez pages !)

Ravenswick, the invented scene of much of the action of Raven Black , lies on the coast south from Lerwick (in real life, the area known as Sandwick). Although the Herring House Gallery in White Nights owes much to the real life Bonhoga Gallery, Biddista is a long way north west - in the approximate location of Hillswick. Red Bones takes Jimmy Perez's assistant Sandy Wilson home to the island of Whalsay. And the original Quartet ends with Jimmy's return to his native Fair Isle in Blue Lightning .

Dead Water marks a new departure for Jimmy Perez: when a body is discovered at Aith Marina, the new power of water conflicts with the established power of oil.

Thin Air takes him to Shetland's most northerly inhabited island, Unst - then Cold Earth returns to Ravenswick.

Finally, Wild Fire is set in Deltaness, an invented village in Northmavine.

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An insider's guide to Shetland, Scotland's wild and captivating islands

By Toby Skinner

The lonely muckle flugga rock – buffeted by sea-crash, topped by a little lighthouse – is simply there. This is the northernmost point in the British Isles , visible up close only on a little boat or via a two-hour hike across the Hermaness headland – where bleak peat bogs and circling bonxies give way to hulking Middle-earth cliffs, glaikit sheep tottering on precipices, terns springing like boomerangs over waters churning with a steady basso profondo.

There’s an epic beauty to it all – but try the words ‘Muckle Flugga’ on most Brits and watch the blank expression. There are no postcards of the lighthouse, no cheery guides in branded fleeces. Just a laminated sign on a wooden post at the edge of the crag, informing visitors that beyond there’s nothing but grey sea until the North Pole.

This understatement is typical of Shetland, the subarctic archipelago that includes 16 inhabited islands that largely sit unadorned, unfertilised, unsold, untouristed. It is a lonely walk across a few muddy fields to the Bergman-esque stacks at Silwick, where vertical cliffs are pocked with nests like an avian Hong Kong. Yell’s white-sand Breckon – probably my favourite beach on the planet – usually sits as empty as a Hollywood dream sequence. The appeal is less about seeing anything in particular than simply being and feeling; waiting for ferries and otters, watching the shifting light and bobbing seals, surrounded by a capricious and unknowable sea, curiously at peace.

Pictured: The bridge at Muckle Roe to the west of the Mainland

I’ve been coming here since I was young. My stepmother Shona has family connections with Cullivoe, a fishing and crofting village on the North Isle of Yell, known for its four-day weddings and terrifyingly liquid Hogmanay, which culminates in a New Year’s Day tug o’ war between the Uppies and the Doonies from either end of the village. Her father, Adam Robson, a charismatic man who played flanker for Scotland and painted wild seas, grew up in Hawick but would visit often with his Cullivoe-born mother, amusing the locals and free-roaming sheep by running up and down the hills. His Shetland blood could be discerned in both his gentle egalitarianism and bone-crushing handshake.

Pictured: Ninian knitwear and gift shop in Lerwick

We used to stay at New House, the ‘but and ben’ two-room croft house that had been in the family since the 1850s and which Papa Adam renovated in the 1990s. We’d drive around in Dad’s Saab convertible, listening to Sade, Meat Loaf and Annie Lennox, shouting ‘Basta!’ at the top of our lungs every time we passed the sign for the little voe where famously plump mussels cling to ropes in the face of roaring tides – still a strictly enforced tradition, and a test of nerve for first-time visitors.

Pictured: Commercial Street in Lerwick

Before Papa Adam died, Dad and Shona’s retirement plan was to move from St Katharine Docks to the Languedoc for a life of Grange des Pères, foie gras and watching Narbonne play rugby. But every time my artist stepmother came to clear out New House for sale, something would stop her. On the 90-minute drive back to the airport, she’d find herself weeping. To cut a long story short, they moved here in 2010 – leaving Dad staring blankly at his Anderson & Sheppard suits and Shona wondering if she’d ever wear her Chanel pumps again.

Pictured: A Shetland pony, a native breed adapted to the harsh climate of the islands

They built an extension to New House, with glassy views across the Bluemull Sound to the cliffs of Unst, the northernmost island – a hundred feet high but dwarfed by the fiercest winter swells. A few years later, they opened The Shetland Gallery, Britain’s northernmost art space, showing Shona’s free-machine embroidered seascapes alongside works by other artists and makers drawn to the island seas and skies. They bought two beautiful Shetland ponies, Fortnum and Mason, who soon had their own little hut, were cuddled daily but couldn’t be induced to cross their field without treats. Up at the pebbledash village hall, where even the most generous round rarely exceeds a tenner, Peerie Brian the ship captain rechristened them Aldi and Lidl. Dad and Shona did their best to be amused.

Pictured: Belmont House mansion on Unst

Aside from Dad’s ill-fated run for a council seat and a few minor spats conducted via the pages of The Shetland Times, they have been welcomed like family, as have we all. Shona is actually related to half the village, but on one Famously Groused Hogmanay my sister had a de facto marriage to Lee the bus driver, about which his actual fiancée seemed only faintly unamused. Netta, the late twinkling, mischievously formidable Queen of Cullivoe, became a surrogate granny. The charming Lawson children could soon remember not just our names but how we took our gin and tonics, and who was best at the cereal-box game.

Pictured: Sumburgh beach

Over time, I’ve become soaked in a place which is really British only in name. Closer to Bergen than Inverness, the islands were Viking-conquered and under Norse rule until the 15th century. Shetlanders have voted Liberal/Lib Dem at every election since 1950, and oil-driven public funds have helped deliver folk and wool festivals, shiny roads and remote leisure centres. It feels more Scandi-socialist than two-party British. Place names reflect the Norse mash-up: Cunnister, Wadbister, Huxter, Cuppa Water, Twatt. The local dialect, virtually impossible to imitate, can sound almost Icelandic – long-vowelled, with ‘o’ drifting towards ‘au’ and ‘i’ turning to ‘u’ (‘Dunna chuck bruck’, read the anti-littering signs). But the people are no insular separatists. A history of seafaring has fostered an outward-looking perspective, a resourcefulness, a gentle humility and a broad-church tolerance. It’s just that the islands haven’t much needed the rest of the world. Unlike the Western Isles or the more manicured Orkneys, Shetland’s healthy economy relies much more on fishing and oil than tourism.

Pictured: Eshaness cliffs

Hence there are smart stays, but also grotty hotels that were built in the 1970s for oilmen who wanted little beyond a bunk and a Tennent’s tap; a slowly growing number of places to sample the wonderful seafood, if not as many as there might be, given that more fish is landed here than England , Wales and Northern Ireland combined. Flights remain expensive, though passengers are rewarded with Tunnock’s wafers and tea, and thrilling views as the tiny propeller plane swoops over the lighthouse and the Jarlshof pre-historic settlement at Sumburgh, on the Mainland’s southern tip.

Pictured: Sumburgh lighthouse

Adding to the sometime assertion that this is a Marmite destination, Shetland’s rolling, largely treeless interior doesn’t fit some Romantic ideals of beauty. Yet I adore its peaty bleakness – a landscape of sinking bogs, ancient bones and ferocious winds; a great moss-green canvas for the sky. The sense of space leaves room for imagination, which helps explain all the artists and poets; makers of fiddles, fine tweeds and impossibly delicate lace shawls; why so many gatherings tend to end with impromptu jams, a tradition that dates beyond Peerie Willie Johnson, the ‘dum chuck’ guitarist who combined Django Reinhardt licks with classic folk.

Pictured: 18th-century lodberry stone store in Lerwick

The ultimate creative space is the sea, which is like a god, albeit one you’re never more than four miles from. It crashes and caresses, and shapes everything: the stacks at Eshaness, one of which looks like a giant horse supping the sea; or the hourglass-shaped tombolo leading to St Ninian’s Isle, which disappears with a whimper at high tide. Up at Hermaness, great Arctic swells rip into the cliffs, before dementedly swirling down the Bluemull Sound.

Pictured: Diving off Scousburgh, South Mainland

The sea also provides Muckle Flugga’s mythology. The story goes that the giants Herma and Saxa fell in love with the same mermaid, hurling rocks at each other, one of which became Muckle Flugga. Eventually, the mermaid offered to marry whichever giant could follow her to the North Pole. Neither could swim, so both drowned in pursuit. I often think, too, of the poor young couple who died at Hermaness on New Year’s Day in 1992, caught by a 200mph storm that shattered the lonely bird hide they were sheltering in. Nature at its most ruthless.

Nothing and no one will tell you these stories. Hermaness, like much of Shetland, isn’t a place for explanations, let alone soupy endings. It’s a place to watch the blues and whites of waves that growl like thunder, or the brief glide of a gannet before it swoops and kills. It is what it is. A place to wonder.

Pictured: Cliffs at Sumburgh Head

Where to stay

The best hotel has long been the waterside Scalloway Hotel , in the eponymous old capital, six miles from Lerwick, with cosy tweed-clad rooms – though its owners recently put it up for sale. Seascape artist Ruth Brownlee’s Airbnb Sea Winds is the one to book in Lerwick, with its spiral staircase and view over Jimmy Perez’s cottage in the Shetland TV show. The most elegant stay is Belmont House , on Unst, a Georgian country pile with landscaped gardens. Twelve guests can cosy up in the light-dappled drawing room, watching the little ferry drift in while perhaps looking up from a game of Cluedo.

Pictured: Ruth Brownlee’s Airbnb

Where to eat

The best of Lerwick's new breed of restaurants is The Dowry , a Scandi-minimal deli/bar that does local scallops, lobster and Scotch eggs; while, up in Brae, Frankie’s has won national awards for its fish and chips, with the menu showing the boats bringing in today’s catch.

Pictured: Tacos at The String in Lerwick

Founded by naturalist Brydon Thomason, Shetland Nature lays on everything from otter- and orca-spotting expeditions to week- long trips. Sea Kayak Shetland in Lerwick offers tours around the South Mainland cliffs, also great for coasteering. Serious anglers head out from Cullivoe on Oberon, skippered by hail-fellow-well-met Glaswegian Kenny Graham, and Compass Rose runs fishing day trips from the same pier to see the Muckle Flugga lighthouse up close.

Pictured: The Dowry in Lerwick

Like this? Now read:

The best hotels in Scotland

13 secret beaches in Scotland

8 secret bothies in Scotland

Pictured: Bressay lighthouse

Pictured: Puffin

• Scottish Isles

The Shetland Islands in Scotland are the most northerly point of Scotland and a stunning place to spend your holiday! The archipelago of islands that make up the Shetland’s islands is an incredible destination to travel to, and you’ll be surprised to discover the sheer number of things to do in Shetland while you’re here.

The Shetland Islands have a fascinating and detailed history, from their Iron and Bronze Age ruins, prosperous Norse settlements inhabited by Vikings that travelled from Denmark to the proud Scottish heritage that populates all corners of Shetland.

One of the biggest attractions of the Shetland Islands is their remote isolation from the rest of the bustling cities of Scotland. In fact, the Shetland economy is built primarily on fishing and maritime produce! But rest assured, there is an excellent selection of Shetland accommodation that allows you to experience the tranquil coast and islands of the region without sacrificing comfort.

So, when you’re planning to travel to Scotland, make sure to turn your attention north of the Scottish Mainland and consider checking out these unique and fascinating islands – you’ll be surprised at the sheer amount of things to do on the Shetland Islands.

In This Post

Things to do in Shetland

The Shetland Islands are stocked full of activities, events, and amazing sights to see. You won’t go a day without making a memory at one of Shetland’s attractions that will stay with you for the rest of your life.

The many islands that make up Shetland are gorgeous, and the fans of the Shetland TV series will realise that many of the stunning attractions look far better in person! You can fill your whole holiday with exciting and spectacular sights, from the beautiful coast and surprisingly accessible historical sites that detail Shetland’s history to the cultural events that show the blend of Shetland and Norse cultures.

We’re sure that a holiday to the Shetland Islands will be one of your favourite places to visit, so don’t hold back and book yourself a ticket as soon as you can! See our list for the top things to do in Shetland!

Enjoy a visit to Shetland’s Islands

Many islands make up the wondrous Shetland, and each contains a special and unique opportunity for your next holiday destination. The largest island is known as Mainland Shetland and includes most of the region’s population.

The Mainland of Shetland holds many beautiful natural landscapes, including a UNESCO global geopark, and can provide accommodation and local amenities for your travel. Shetland’s smaller islands contain hidden gems that you cannot miss out on seeing.

We’ve detailed our favourite choices that you should undoubtedly consider while exploring Shetland and its islands.

Fair Isle is a jewel of an island found on the southern tip of Shetland. It’s famous for its many natural attractions and wildlife.

You can enjoy bird spotting a wide variety of seabirds that make their home on this quaint Isle, most common around the island’s fishing village of Stonybrek. There is also an abundance of shipwrecks you can see around the coast of Fair Isle, which is the perfect addition to any hiking trail.

Start your visit off to the Shetland Islands with a trip to the lovely Fair Isle and get a taste of how beautiful Scotland can be.

Isle of Noss

The Isle of Noss holds a fantastic reserve isolated by the narrow Sound of Ness and is an incredible attraction for those who came to the Shetland Islands for its picturesque wildlife.

The Isle’s cliffs tower a staggering 180-metres above the sea and are like skyscrapers for the immense density of bird species you can find here. You can even spot distant whales and porpoises that breach the waves while walking along the coastline, with jaw-dropping views from these high vantage points.

The Isle of Noss is on the east side of Bressay and is an excellent day trip if you want the best scenery that the Shetland islands offer.

If fishing is your favourite pastime, then look no further than the island of Whalsay for some prime angling on the Shetland Islands.

Whalsay can be found just off the northern Mainland of Shetland and welcomes visitors with a warm atmosphere and friendly locals. You can try your hand at loch angling while hearing the history of Shetland Island’s fishing roots from one of the local anglers. Those that want to dive deeper into the profound account of Whalsay can do so at the Whalsay Heritage Centre.

The gorgeous fields of Whalsay are famous for their beautiful wild flowers and wildlife, so much so that the first 19-century explorers gave the island’s arable land the nickname of ‘the bonnie island’.

Fetlar is called the ‘Garden of Shetland’ and holds the most stunning natural landscapes in the Shetland Islands. If you have the chance to wander through the lush and verdant islands in Shetlands, take it as fast as you can!

Fetlar is also on the precipice of Norway, the Danish Faroe Islands, and the Shetland Islands, making it a great destination to travel to when you want to experience a cultural blend of all three of these regions.

It’s essential to the Scottish Government that the arable land and natural beauty of Fetlar is maintained, and two-thirds of the island is considered to be a heritage site.

Fetlar is truly a wildlife paradise filled with rolling green landscapes and wild flowers – there’s no better place to get away from the hustle and bustle of your life than the island of Fetlar.

Jarlshof Prehistoric and Nordic Settlement

The Jarlshof Settlement is an extraordinary attraction that you have the chance to see while you’re in the Shetland islands, combining over 4000-years of history into one incredible location.

From the ancient Neolithic to Viking communities from Denmark, exploring the massive complex of ruinous homes and farmsteads allows you to glance back in time and walk amongst the settlement as if you were there when it was built!

You can receive a full scope of Scotland’s history when you visit Jarlshof Prehistoric and Nordic Settlement, with sites from the Bronze and Iron Ages and proof of Nordic communities in the most northern region of Scotland.

Shetland Museum & Archive

This 5-star attraction in Lerwick is one you can’t miss out on if you’re interested in the heritage and culture of the Shetland Islands.

The Shetlands Museum & Archive is filled with not only one of the most expansive collections in the British Isles but also holds many spectacular cultural events throughout the year. The Museum contains artefacts exclusively from the Shetland Islands, most of which were generously donated by generations of Shetlanders.

You can also gain access to the Shetland Archive, a necessary step for anyone who wants to see if their ancestry extends to these remote islands.

Broch of Mousa

Within the remote Island of Mousa in Shetland sits the most well-preserved broch in Scotland and a fantastic sight to see while you’re visiting the Isle of Mousa’s Natural Reserve.

Found east of the Shetland’s Mainland, the Broch of Mousa towers above its surroundings, standing at a staggering 13-metres tall! This historical site is believed to have been constructed over 2000-years ago, and it’s an artefact of Scottish prehistory that is daunting to see. The Broch of Mousa is one of the most impressive sights you’ll see exploring the breadth and width of the Shetland Islands.

You can reach Mousa Broch can be visited with a brief boat trip that takes you to the island, an excellent day trip to undertake while in the Shetland Islands.

Sumburgh Head Lighthouse

The Sumburgh Head Lighthouse holds a breath-taking view of the North Sea and is a grand, beautiful lighthouse you can visit while on the Southern tip of the Shetland’s largest island.

Home to a visitor centre and nature reserve, this lighthouse is a magnificent building that complements the ocean views and is a bastion of heritage covering the region’s history back to the Iron Age! You can learn about the lighthouse keepers and the abundant wildlife you can see in the area, from whales, puffins, and many more!

The Sumburgh Head Lighthouse is one attraction you need to see while on the south coast of the Shetland Islands – you won’t regret it!

Shetland Crofthouse Museum

If you’re ever lucky enough to head down to the delightful setting of Dunrossness, the Shetland Crofthouse Museum offers you an opportunity to explore a recreation of a 19th-century croft house.

The passionate tour guides here provide an unparalleled description and history of what Shetland life would have been like for those living in the Shetland Crofthouse. This spirited retelling, combined with the smell of the peat fire, the atmosphere of the old thatched cottage roofs, and its artefacts, make this experience one that you won’t soon forget.

The Shetland Museum also holds many cultural events throughout the year, so check out their website.

Hermaness National Nature Reserve

The sheer cliffs of the Hermaness National Nature Reserve are as daunting as they are beautiful. It’s hard not to be impressed as the waves crash against these stalwart cliffs, accompanied by whipping wind and vocal sea birds.

This national reserve is stunning, especially with the wide variety of wildlife displayed here. You can watch dexterous Gannets dive into the waters at blinding speeds and puffins meander and hop from rock to rock below.

The Hermaness Reserve takes about an hour to navigate to Britain’s most northerly point, Muckle Flugga, and is an excellent way to experience the wildlife that makes its home this far north!

Scalloway Castle

Scalloway Castle is a magnificent building that automatically commands your attention with its impressive design and aged structure.

This Castle was once the home of Black Patie, an Earl of Shetland and Orkney infamous for oppressing and exploiting the labour of the people of Mainland Shetland. This unsavoury figure was executed in 1615, but their impressive 15-century castle still stands and can be explored in this harbour town.

The fascinating history of this Castle makes this an exciting attraction to visit as you explore the Shetland Islands, especially while in Scalloway.

Banna Min Beach

On the south side of Shetland mainland sits one of the more gorgeous beaches on the entire Isle of Shetland, Banna Min Beach.

Boasting clear blue waters, fine white sands, and a peaceful atmosphere, you’d be forgiven for mistaking this beach for one in the Caribbean. On a beautiful sunny day, there’s no place you’d rather be on the Mainland than soaking up the sun on Banna Min Beach and that’s a fact!

And if you’re fortunate, you may even be joined by a few plump seals who love sunbathing as much as you do!

Check out Bobby’s Bus Shelter

One of the unique attractions on the Shetland Islands is Bobby’s Bus Shelter, a decorated shelter that gains a new theme every year.

Located on the Isle of Unst, Bobby’s Bus Shelter is one of the most popular local attractions, equally kooky and charming. The Shelter usually features a colourful array of signs and decorations and is fully equipped with a microwave, table, chair, and carpet!

The mastermind behind the novel attraction has made a point to include a particular theme each year to decorate the Shelter after – Queen’s Jubilee, outer space, and African have all been prominent themes throughout the years! This fantastic local attraction is fun and exciting and well worth your time to visit.

Clickimin Broch

The Clickimin Broch is an excellent broch you can see and is just outside the town centre of Lerwick on the Shetland Islands.

This surprisingly accessible attraction is the perfect place to stop by and spend some time before catching one of the many ferries that will take you to the Northern Isles of Orkney. You can explore the Broch free of charge, and you’d be surprised how big it is on the inside.

Near Clickimin Broch are other historic site ruins dating back to almost 3000-years ago, including a sculpted set of stone feet speculated to be created during the Iron Age and symbolise kingship!

See the Northern Lights

The spectacular sight of the Northern Lights, or ‘Mirrie Dancers’ as they’re known locally, are the highlights of many people’s travel and is an incredible experience you have whilst on the Shetland Isles.

The Shetland Islands are the most northerly point in Britain, making it the best place in the UK to see these gorgeous dancing lights. Although you can see them throughout the year, your highest chance of seeing the Northern Lights are during the winter months, from mid-October to mid-March.

We highly recommend spending as much time as you can and visiting the many other lovely attractions of the British Isles of Shetland to make sure your holiday has the highest chance of seeing them and is also filled with things to do while you’re not!

See Shetland Ponies

Wandering the hills and moors of Scotland’s Shetland Islands are animals that will undoubtedly put a smile on your face – Shetland ponies!

These patchy-patterned equines have been living on the isles for over 4000-years! You’ll see herds of them throughout your travels, so make sure to stop by and take a picture. Although keep in mind that crofters of the Isles own all the Shetland ponies, so respect that fact!

Otherwise, these fantastic and resilient ponies are as part of the Shetland Islands as the people, and they’re a friendly face you’ll be seeing as you explore the islands.

Visit Lerwick, Shetland’s Capital

The beautiful Lerwick is the only proper town on the Shetland Islands, with a population of 7,500 people and many amazing things to do!

You can visit the historic 18-century buildings that line the town’s waterfront, boasting sandstone structures and ornate Dutch-style architecture. The Lerwick Town Hall also is an excellently designed building, resembling a miniature castle.

While you’re here, why not attend a tour and tasting at Lerwick Brewery, the most northerly distilleries in Scotland or cap off your day of touring the Shetland Isles at Mareel, the town’s beautifully made musical theatre and cinema!

You’ll likely be passing through this picturesque town when you arrive in the Shetland Islands, but we recommend thoroughly exploring the city before seeing the rest of the islands.

West Voe Beach

One of the most stunning beaches in the Shetlands Islands is West Voe Beach, which even won an award from Keep Scotland Beautiful!

You can find this beach just south west of the Sumburgh Airport, the main airport of Mainland Shetland. It treats you to spectacular views, complete with clear turquoise waters and white sands. The West Voe Beach is also remarkably close to Sumburgh Head and the two great historical sites of Jarlshof and Old Scatness!

If you’re landing at the Sumburgh Airport on the Shetland Islands, check out this tranquil beach when the weather’s shining!

Culswick Circular Walk

On the West Side of Mainland Shetland, the Culswick Circular Walk attracts hundreds of visitors with incredible sights every year.

With dramatic views of valleys, freshwater lochs, and the Culswick Broch – one of the best-preserved ancient ruins you can find in Mainland Shetland! The walking trail takes around 2 hours to complete, perfect for an early morning wake up to begin your journey through the Shetland Mainland.

The Shetland Islands don’t lack fantastic walking trails, but the Culswick Circular Walk is undoubtedly one of the best on the Mainland.

Tangwick Haa Museum

As you explore the area of Tangwick on the West Side of the Shetland Mainland, make sure to stop by the Tangwick Haa Museum, which holds a collection of unique artefacts and exhibits that show off the region’s history.

You should undoubtedly treat yourself to a tour through this Museum, and we guarantee that your knowledge and experience of the things to do in Shetland will be heightened because of it! The guides and volunteers are incredibly knowledgeable and passionate individuals and make the tour through the Museum a joy to behold.

If you have time when you’re enjoying your outdoor activities in Shetland, the Tangwick Haa Museum is one place you shouldn’t miss.

The Hollanders Grave

Near the town of Hillswick stands the Hollanders Grave, a monument grave dedicated to the naval war that took place between the Dutch East India Company and the English Navy in 1654!

This historic battle is marked and is a small monument with tranquil and spectacular scenery along the west coast of the Shetland Islands. This Grave is a must-see if you have any heritage or ancestry from these places and marks a monumental battle that this archipelago was involved in.

The Cabin Museum

Any history buffs will love the Cabin Museum in Shetland, especially the rare and unique World War II artefacts, photos, and items that detail Shetland’s history during this turbulent time.

The Cabin Museum is open from May to September every year and was founded in 1978, so make sure to book your holiday around this time if you’re interested in checking this attraction out! You can also discover a wide array of Shetland’s crafting history from whaling and fishing.

Fort Charlotte

Equipped with cannons that overlook the Sound of Bressay, Fort Charlotte was the fortress used by the English to deter Dutch and French ships. This imposing fort is a must-see while visiting the beautiful Shetland archipelago.

Interestingly, a deterrence was all that this Fort actually was, and Fort Charlotte never actually fired their cannons. Today, you can see the outside grounds of the Fort, complete with a series of cannons, informative signs, and beautiful views of the Sound of Bressay.

If you’re a history buff looking to complete your holiday with some extraordinary sights, then Fort Charlotte is your choice!

Red Pool Virkie

If you follow the coastline north from the Ness Boat Club, you may come across the peculiar sight of Red Pool Virkie – a natural phenomenon that you won’t want to miss seeing!

This strange attraction can only be seen during the summer months, one of the best times to visit the Shetland Islands! Due to algae decomposing, the colour of the pool shifts to the brilliant crimson hue that gives the Red Pool Virkie its ominous look.

You can fully climb down the cliff edge and get superbly close to the Red Pool if you can withstand the smell of algae and be treated to a beautiful view of the South Mainland of Shetland, with the North Sea stretching out as far as the eye can see.

Old Scatness Broch & Iron Age Village

Uncovers the mysterious histories of the Iron Age and Scotland when you visit the magnificent Old Scatness Broch & Iron Age Village!

You can receive an excellent guided tour that takes you through multiple ancient ruins discovered in 1975, making this historic site relatively new and untouched. There is even a reconstructed Iron Age Village with a peat fire that evokes your imagination and immerses you into a world over 3000-years ago!

You can enjoy a guided tour on Fridays of every week, but you can still visit the site anytime by yourself – We highly recommend you do so!

Muness Castle

On the northernmost island of Unst sits the mighty Muness Castle, an impeccably fine tower house that’s an excellent attraction to add to your to-do list while you’re on the Shetland Islands.

This remote Castle is a must-visit destination while you’re in Unst and provides travellers with informative learning boards that tell the castle’s fascinating history as you tour its interior and the grounds around it. Enhance your exploration by grabbing the torches from their sconces and touring the rooms as if you lived there!

The Isle of Muness itself boasts the spectacular scenery that Shetland is known for, and there’s no better place to enjoy its history than at Muness Castle.

Shetland Textile Museum

While you’re exploring the town of Lerwick, make sure to stop by the Shetland Textile Museum and dive deep into one of the unique historical museums you can find in the Shetland Isles.

The Shetland Textile Museum focuses on the evolution of textiles in Shetland, moving from history to contemporary! There’s a particular focus on hand knitting and its role, with plenty of exhibits that showcase how knitting is used on the island. The occasional live demonstration gives you unparalleled insight into its complicated process.

This Textile Museum is too close to Lerwick to miss out on and makes for the perfect afternoon destination to stop by and explore.

Bonhoga Gallery

Bonhoga combines incredible artistry, generations of craftsmanship, and a splendid café with a wide selection of food and drink – what more could you ask for?

You’ll be treated to beautiful and provoking artworks made by local Scottish Mainland and Shetland artists, ranging from recreations of the spectacular scenery of Mainland Scotland to the Coastlines of Shetland. The Gallery has adopted an old barn house to house its artworks, creating a homely sense of warmth.

The Bonhoga Gallery is situated right in the centre of Shetland Mainland, making it a great destination to visit wherever you are in Shetland.

Eshaness Lighthouse

On the North of Shetland sits the incredible Eshanness Lighthouse, one of Scotland’s most remote and northern lighthouses!

The Eshannes Lighthouse sits on the craggy and cliff coastline of the Shetland Islands, offering some of the best views that you can receive of the Atlantic Ocean. It’s not uncommon for the area to be covered in a dense fog, which is why the Lighthouse is there in the first place, but there’s a webcam available online that allows you to scout the weather before you go!

Take a walk along the coastline and experience the beautiful scenery that this small portion of Scotland is known for.

Other Things To Do in Scottish Isles

• Things to do in Arran
• Things to do in Brodick
• Things to do in Harris
• Things to do in Islay
• Things to do in Isle of Lewis
• Things to do in Isle of Mull
• Things to do in Isle of Skye
• Things to do in Kirkwall
• Things to do in North & South Uist
• Things to do in Orkney
• Things to do in Portree
• Things to do in Stornoway

Graham Grieve

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Elizabeth's Kitchen Diary

cooking up a storm at the edge of the world

Shetland Islands: An Epic 7-Day Road Trip Itinerary

The Shetland Islands are a remote island archipelago in the North Sea, lying midway between Iceland, Scotland and Norway at the same latitude as the southern tip of Greenland. It boasts dramatic seascapes, captivating wildlife and friendly island hospitality.

The Shetland Islands Road Trip Itinerary

I’ve gone on many a press trip over these last few years, and one of the things I’ve noticed about most of them is how fantastically organized and jam-packed the itineraries are. I’ve sometimes thought that the PRs I’ve dealt with should go into business creating tailored holiday itineraries.

Last Spring, my Aberdonian food blogging friend Claire over at FoodieQuine asked me to suggest a few places in Shetland to visit during her family four-day spring break. I did, and I got a bit carried away, thoroughly enjoying creating a full itinerary and they enjoyed experiencing it (you can read all about their trip here & here !). That gave me the idea to create a longer, more detailed Shetland Islands road trip itinerary for any of my outdoor foodie adventurer readers who might fancy visiting us up here in the wild, wild North Sea.

I’ve lived in Shetland for 23 years, come March 2022, so I’ve explored a fair few nooks and crannies of this tiny island archipelago. Not all of them, mind, there’s over 1200 miles of coastline on this 85 x 35-mile island group, so there are plenty more adventures to be had.

This post only mentions walks, restaurants, hotels and activities I have personally experienced and enjoyed. It’s not sponsored by any brand. I’d also like to thank Rachel from Vagabond Baker for the use of her photograph, pictured above. She took this photo while on her own epic road trip adventure of Shetland a few years ago, and she stayed at this particular spot in her Thundertruck upon my recommendation. You can read all about her road trip adventures here.  

Top tip: no matter what time of year you’re visiting, pack waterproofs and a warm hat. Get yourself a copy of Walking on Orkney & Shetland Isles by Graham Uney. Disclaimer, this is an Amazon Associates affiliate link, which means if you click through and make any subsequent purchase from Amazon (not just this book) within the next 24 hours we will earn a small commission.

Getting to the Shetland Islands

I always recommended folk come to Shetland via the ferry, at least once, to get the full Shetland Islands experience. We’re 200 miles north, as the crow flies, from Aberdeen, Scotland – a 12/14 hour overnight ferry (depending on if it’s stopping off in Orkney or not). You don’t get that sense of island remoteness if you take the one hour Aberdeen flight. Plus, the ferry is a more reliable method of transportation, especially during the summer months when fog (and a worrying number of ‘technical difficulties’) cause regular flight delays and cancellations. Just get the boat; it’s part of the adventure.

You can get a 20% discount on the Northlink fare with a Scotrail Highland Rover Ticket , so why not make Shetland part of a Highlands of Scotland trip? Depart from either Orkney or Aberdeen, and arrive in Lerwick the following morning. You can save money on the ferry by getting a reclining seat, or even a sleeping pod instead of a cabin. I usually sleep in a pod, which is like a  big lazy boy chair with a USB charging port. It’s comfortable enough for my 5′ 4 3/4 inch size, but I think taller folk might struggle.

For foodies, invest in a pass for the Magnus Lounge. For just £18.50 you get two drinks vouchers (2 x glasses of wine, beer or spirits), table service in the quiet restaurant with sea views and a lovely continental breakfast in the morning. Their menu features a decent amount of Shetland and Orkney produce, so you’re guaranteed to try something local.

There are also cosy couches to spend the evening reading your book, unlimited tea, coffee, snacks and non-alcoholic drinks. Well worth the price, I think, and it helps pass the journey in comfort (unless you’re a high-seas-spewer, in which case go lie down as soon as the boat starts moving and don’t get up until it stops. Plug yourself into an audiobook to pass the time).

Day 1: Lerwick

Lerwick, from the old Norse ‘Ler vik’ meaning “muddy bay”, is Shetland’s capital. With a population of around 8000, it boasts a wide variety of shops and eateries, and it’s a good place to start your Shetland Islands road trip.

7:30 am – arrive in Lerwick. Stay onboard the ferry until 9 am as nothing is open. Enjoy a leisurely breakfast in the Magnus Lounge.

9:00 am – walk to Star Rent-a-Car across from the Viking Bus Station and hire a car if you’ve not brought your own. You can book a car in advance and they will drop it off at the ferry terminal or airport for you. Alternatively, you can hire a dog-friendly motorhome in Shetland from Explore Shetland. Their Sunlight A72 is equipped with everything you need for an epic adventure. 

10:00 am – check into your accommodation. have stayed overnight at The Lerwick Hotel  (modern and stylish), The Kveldsro House Hotel (classic old-fashioned, central) and The Queens Hotel  (historic, central) and can personally recommend them.

11:00 am – browse the shops on the high street and taste test the chocolates and at The Island Larder . Visit the  Tourist Information to see if anything interesting is happening while you’re here.

12:00 noon – lunch at The Peerie Shop Cafe . Every Wednesday they make  reestit mutton soup , a dish unique to the Shetland Islands. They’ve got a fairly active Facebook page, so check it that morning for the daily specials.

1:00 pm – three options:

• PLAN A scenic walk around Lerwick old town and the Knab (walk #41 in Walking on Orkney and the Shetland Isles ) over to the Clickimin Broch , a well-preserved 2000-year-old Pictish round-house. Give yourself a couple of hours for this.
• PLAN B if the weather is poor (it happens, sorry in advance) head to the Shetland Museum & Archives for a fascinating glimpse into Shetland’s history. The Shetland Library is always well worth a visit too.
• PLAN C  Seabirds & Seals  – 2:15 departure – Hop on board the Seabird catamaran with its underwater viewing for a three-hour cruise around the Noss National Nature Reserve and see Shetland’s spectacular birds and seal colonies.

6:00 pm – dinner in your hotel or make a reservation for The Dowry , located on the High Street.

9:00 pm until late – Cocktails at the Mareel Cafe Bar (just next to Hay’s Dock). They often host informal music/art events, so check their website to see what’s on beforehand. Alternatively (or next, if you’re up to it!) upstairs in The Lounge Bar on da street hosts regular informal music sessions.

Other places to visit in Lerwick

To eat:  Fjara Cafe Bar (best coffee, ever!) & C’est la Vie (posh French food) are my other favourite cafes.

For outdoor gear: Outdoor Trek  &  Cee & Jays  (I did tell you to pack waterproofs, didn’t I, up at the top of this post, but just in case you forgot – or didn’t believe me!).

Day 2: Northmavine  

Northmavine is a dramatic volcanic landscape, as soon as you pass through Brae and Mavis Grind (where Shetland narrows and the North Sea and the Atlantic nearly meet) you’ll find yourself transported to an entirely different world.

7:00 am – Breakfast at The New Harbour Cafe – £4.95 for the best fry-up ever. £5.95 to fill hungrier appetites.

8:00 am – head north in the car. Stop at the Brae Co-op or the Hillswick shop for provisions for the day, your evening meal and breakfast the following morning.

10:00 am – park at the Eshaness Lighthouse car park.

• PLAN A – for walkers: do the Eshaness Circular   making sure to explore the broch at the Loch of Houlland, peer down the Holes of Scraada and stop for a rest at Da Grind o’da Navir. This will take a good 3-4 hours, including rest stops.
• PLAN B – for climbers: check out this guide  for Foy Corner, Perfect Groove & the Sirens of Calder. Visit the Shetland Climbing website for more information.
• PLAN C – (if it’s poor weather): run to the cliff edge, hold on to your hat, exclaim at how far it goes down – try and ignore the vertigo –  and take obligatory ‘I’ve been here’ tourist photograph for Instagram. Then, go and check out the Tangwick Haa museum for some history of the area.

2 pm – lunch at the Braewick Cafe & Caravan Park . Quality home cooking with local produce. Some of their meat is even reared in the croft next door. Book and pay for one of the Braewick Wigwams if you fancy staying in those for the night – they’re super cosy.

4 pm – walk down to the Braewick beach and check out the geology. There are old hardened bits of lava flow buried in the sand and evidence of the tsunami that swept over Shetland 10,000 years ago sandwiched between layers of peat on the cliffside.

7 pm – Cold dinner and a glass of wine in your wigwam or head to the St. Magnus Hotel in nearby Hillswick for some fine dining. Alternatively, nip to Brae and enjoy a fish supper at Frankie’s Fish & Chips , Britain’s most northerly fish & chip shop. It closes at 8 pm.

Other things to do in Northmavine

Outdoors: Mavis Grind, Ronas Hill

Day 3: Unst 

Unst is the most northerly UK inhabited island, and it was the inspiration behind the map of RL Stephenson’s Treasure Island. He spent a lot of time here during his childhood as his family built the lighthouses. Unst is one of my favourite staycation spots in Shetland. Check out the stop-motion video we made with the kids a few years ago of one of our visits.

6:45 am – ferry to Yell. Book the ferry in advance and take cash to pay on board as they don’t take cards. Drive through Yell (no time to stop!), noting, halfway, the creepy house on the hill to your left. That’s Windhoose, Shetland’s most haunted house. Catch the next ferry to Unst (you don’t pay for this one).

9:30 am – put your name on the ‘guests in’ board at the Gardiesfauld Youth Hostel . This is an independent hostel and it’s really well equipped and ideally situated for exploring the island of Unst. I can also recommend the Baltasound Hotel and the Saxavord Resort.

10:00 am – head north, briefly stopping at the Unst Bus Shelter and sign the guest book. Pop into The Final Checkout , just a few more minutes down the road, for provisions and fuel, if needed.

10:30 am – stop at the Skidbladner Viking Longship on the right-hand side of the road for a look-see. This is a replica longship that sailed from Norway en route to America and got stranded on Shetland. Check out my blog post on last year’s Unst Viking Festival held at this location.

11:00 am – early lunch at Victoria’s Vintage Tea Room. Their afternoon tea is a must-try! This is the only place on Unst you’ll get wifi other than the ferry terminal too, so catch up on social media here if you need to.

12:00 pm Visit the  Valhalla Brewery  where they make Viking mead and traditional ales. Pop into  Shetland Reel Gin , next door, if you’ve got time. Book both in advance if you can.

1:30 pm – Drive to the very end of the road, park the car and start walking the Hermaness Circular  Walk #77 in Walking on the Orkney and Shetland Islands . Give yourself 3-5 hours for this walk. Note that you can only walk the coastal trail now, the inland path is closed to allow the landscape to rejuvenate. You’ll see the lighthouse at Muckle Flugga on an island at the northern tip of Britain and you’ll spot plenty of puffins too. On your way back, if there’s time, pop into the Hermaness Visitor Centre.

8:00 pm evening meal – either self-catering at the youth hostel or in your hotel – I’ve had delicious evening meals at both the Baltasound Hotel and the Saxavord Resort.

Other things to do in Unst

Festivals: Unst Fest – the UK’s most northerly festival (that I still haven’t been to, yet!)

Outdoors: Norwick Beach , Eastings Beach, Sandwick Beach  to Framgord Walk #76, Muness Castle

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Day 4: Yell

The island of Yell, to me, used to be a place you drove through to catch the ferry to Unst. It was only a few summers ago I began to spend any time in Yell, and there are so many lovely beaches and hill walks there – well worth a visit!

6:30 am – ferry to Yell (sometimes you can catch the longer ferry which nips over to Fetlar and back to Unst again before heading to Yell – a nice little extra jaunt).

7:00 am – check into the Windhouse Lodge Camping Bod – book this in advance. They’ll hide the key for you if they don’t meet you first.

9:00 am – get provisions for lunch at the Aywick shop, Gutcher shop or the Brae stores next to the Ulsta ferry terminal.

10:00 am – a day trek (or two!)

• option 1: walk #70 in Walking on the Orkney & Shetland Isles – Stuis o Graveland, taking in The Eigg  (pictured above).
• option 2: park at the Gutcher ferry terminal and walk the coastline to Burra Ness Broch
• option 3: Breckon circular  and the Sands of Breckon .

6:00 pm – L.J’s Diner & Pizzeria eat in or takeaway and back to the camping bod for dinner in front of a cosy fire.

Other things to do in Yell

Outdoors: the white wife of Otterswick  Walk #69. You also might like my Highway to Yell: Cycling Through Britain’s Most Northern Isles (Part 2)

To eat: cake & coffee in the Old Haa Museum 

Day 5: South Mainland

The south mainland is full of all sorts of history, archaeology and, if you’re lucky, the sight of orcas.

early am – Ferry back to the mainland and drive south. Stop at any village shop en route for picnic provisions.

10 am – Head to Bigton and walk over one of the finest tombolos in Europe to St Ninian’s Isle . Leisurely explore the island. Leave island via the path and turn right onto the beach – keep following the coastline until you find secluded sea cave at the very end. Picnic in the shelter of the cave (this area can be a gorgeous suntrap sometimes!).

2:00 pm – Visit the   Sumburgh Lighthouse . Leave beach and turn right towards Spiggie when you leave the village of Bigton. Continue to end of the picturesque road (you might want to stop for a photo of Spiggie Beach itself) and turn right back onto the main road towards Sumburgh lighthouse. Drive over airport runway (the only place in Europe besides Gibraltar you can do this!) and continue to the lighthouse. Park car at the bottom and walk up the hill along the stone wall, peeking over the edge for puffins and, if you’re lucky, orcas or minke whales.

4:00 pm – Visit the Scatness Archaeological Site . This iron age broch and settlement are well worth a visit.

6:00 pm – Vist the Jarlshof pre-historic and Norse settlement.  Alternatively, book yourself into the hotel in the early afternoon and walk the coastal path up to the lighthouse after visiting Jarlshof.

7:00 pm – Evening meal & overnight stay at The Sumburgh Hotel .

Other things to do in the South Mainland 

Outdoors – go fossil hunting at Exnaboe ; west voe sands , Catpund Quarry .

Day 6: Central Mainland

For me, the central mainland encompasses Scalloway and Burra. Take the meandering road through the Tingwall valley for a nice scenic drive.

9 am – West Burra to Kettla Ness walk. Walk #39 in Walking on the Orkney and Shetland Isles, this is one of my favourite walks, taking in the white sands of Banna Minn beach and the stunning cliff top walk with views over towards Foula. Pictured above, floating limpet shell boats in one of the tiny lochs up on the hill last summer.

1 pm – Lunch at Da Haaf Restaurant . Specialising in freshly caught and landed fish, with gorgeous sea views over Scalloway and Trondra. Lunch is served between 12 – 2:30 pm.

3 pm – Visit the Scalloway Museum and pop into Scalloway Castle for a look-see.  The castle was built in 1600 by Patrick Stewart, 2nd Earl of Orkney, during his brief period as effective ruler of Shetland, and the museum is well worth a visit if only to see the pile of ashes from the last witch burnt in Shetland!

6 pm – Evening meal & overnight stay at the Scalloway Hotel.  The Scalloway Hotel is Shetland’s only 2 AA rosette restaurant, and in 2018 they won both the Informal Fine Dining Hotel and Bar Dining Hotel in the Scottish Hotel Awards.

Other things to do in the Central Mainland

Outdoors: Check out the Smuggler’s Cave in Hamnavoe  while walking the Hamnavoe Circular   (2 hours). Alternatively, take in the Scalloway to Burwick Circular , a 5-hour walk.

Day 7: West Mainland

West is best, they say, and the West Mainland of Shetland is a treasure trove of nature, wildlife and history. It’s also where I call home. Pictured above, the cairn at the top of Mid Field.

Early morning: pick a hill walk!

• Walk #48 in Walking on the Orkney & Shetland Islands – Scalla Field and the Butter Stone . Park in the Burn of Lunklet car park and follow the trail up past the waterfall.
• Walk #44 – Westerwick and Culswick (10 hours). You can shorten this by parking at the end of the Silwick road by the barn, and follow the coastline over to Westerwick (1.5 hours) or by parking at the end of the road at Culswick and follow the trail to the Culswick Broch  (2.5 hours).
• Walk #46 Mu Ness to Deepdale over Sandness Hill (pictured above) – but watch out for the bonxies. Not even kidding, you might just want to do the coastline bits of this walk and steer clear of the inland bits unless you want to spend an extra few hours detouring around Great Skua nests. Trust me, they make you feel very unwelcome. Blood could be drawn.
• The Melby Fish Beds in Sandness – park at the Sandness pier and follow the coastline (3 hours).
• Visit Da Brigs in Vementry . Turn towards Aith and then drive to the end of the Vementry Road. Park in the layby and the path is signposted on the other side of the road (2 hours).

Plan B if it’s a day of poor weather – try out the new climbing wall at the West Mainland Leisure Centre and visit the Bonhoga Gallery for the latest exhibition. The west mainland is a nice scenic drive too, even in the rain, turn left towards Reawick/Skeld at Park Hall (just after Bixter) continue on to Walls and then follow the signs to Sandness. On the way back, turn into Aith and drive over ‘the Alps’ with a stop at the Hayfield Croft cake fridge – Shetland’s famous honesty box.

Lunch: 11 – 2 pm on Friday kirk tea in the Walls Methodist Church (excellent reestit mutton soup with a bannock and a gorgeous slice of homemade cake) or lunch at the Bonhoga Cafe (open 10:30 am – 5 pm weekdays, 11-5 on Sunday).

Evening: Catch the ferry (evening meal on board the ferry) or stay at the Burrastow House Cottage (this is where my profile picture was taken). Evening meal in Burrastow (expensive, but definitely worth it).

Other things to do in the West Mainland 

Outdoors: Staneydale Temple (Walk #45); Michaelswood in Aith; Reawick Beach ; Da Gairdins i Sand & Sand Beach; Lea Gardens in Tresta; Sandsound.

Other Shetland Islands Day-Trip Options

• Catch a 7-seater aircraft from the Tingwall airport over to Fair Isle for the day.
• Climb Rona’s Hill – Shetland’s largest hill
• Fethaland  – the five-hour circular walk is a great day out
• Hams of Muckle Roe  – follow the coastline around from the beach to the lighthouse to the hams.
• Out Skerries – a small group of islands 10 miles east of Shetland
• Sail on the Swan – a restored herring drifter build in 1900
• Go Sea Kayaking with Sea Kayak Shetland – Angus is an excellent guide and he’ll safely take you on a coastal exploration of the islands. No experience is necessary. I went on an epic trip of Rona’s Voe with him one summer.
• Visit the beach at Muckle Roe (see the video below!)

Muckle Roe – Shetland Microadventures S1: E1 [Video]

Above is the first episode of a brand new vlog series our youngest son and I are making! Don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel so you don’t miss new episodes!

Due to the fact it doesn’t get dark here in Shetland it the summer, it means there’s plenty of opportunity for outdoor adventuring. In the Winter months though, Shetland has its own magic. Think cosy fires, steaming bowls of reestit mutton soup and bannocks. We’ve also got the Up Helly Aa fire festival, Europe’s largest fire festival. Check out my Up Helly Aa Fire Festival Survival Guide .

Don’t forget that if you are from another country and planning a road trip in Shetland then you need to get an International Driver’s Permit (IDP).

Have you visited Shetland, or do you live here and have a favourite spot I’ve missed? What would you add to this list? Let me know in the comments!

About Elizabeth

Solivagant. Foodie. Calls Shetland home.

Reader Interactions

May 14, 2024 at 3:32 pm

I’m coming to Shetland on Sunday 20th May. It’s been a forty year dream in the waiting. I have seven nights on mainland, then two nights on Unst, then tree on Orkney. I will be doing quite a lot of your fabulous suggested walks (I purchased the book) Really looking forward to it now it is only a few days away. Thank you for your great inspiration.

May 15, 2024 at 11:06 am

Oh wow, what an adventure you’re about to have! Delighted you’ll be realising your dream, how exquisite! I am sure you will have a wonderful time, and I hope the weather is good to you! It’s a scorching sunny day today!

May 25, 2023 at 11:46 am

Thank you for the ideas! I’m visiting in early August and have hired a motorhome for the week (flying into Orkney, grab the motorhome and coming over to Shetland on the ferry). What’s the best options for overnights? Caravan parks? Or free camping?

May 26, 2023 at 4:20 pm

How wonderful! I’d go with the free camping, but use the caravan parks to dispose of waste. There’s so many places to explore in Shetland, I’m sure you’ll love it!

May 10, 2023 at 2:31 am

Hello! I am planning a trip for early September. This guide is so helpful. Any thoughts between Busta house and St Magnuson bay hotel? Looking for nice accommodations for several nights. Ty!

May 12, 2023 at 8:00 am

Hi Annie, both hotels are quite lovely in their own unique ways so it would depend on your budget/ their availability. I have never stayed at St Magnus Bay Hotel, but I’ve stayed a number of times at Busta hotel and always loved it. I hope you have a wonderful trip!

March 22, 2023 at 5:58 pm

bit late to the party, great to read the above. A friend and I are planning a week’s cycle trip this September, possibly staying a few days in Lerwick, a few days elsewhere. Any favourite cycle rides? (we’re not lycra cylists, hiring electric bikes!)

May 12, 2023 at 8:05 am

Welcome to Shetland, when you get here! Cycling routes, oh there are just too many! Definitely Spiggie with a tailwind on a sunny day. E-bikes will definitely make Shetland’s hills more manageable. There are no easy miles here!

October 24, 2018 at 8:28 pm

These photos of Shetland look stunning. When is the best time to enjoy the Shetland Islands? Are they part of the Hebrides Islands?

October 24, 2018 at 8:34 pm

I’m glad you like my photos! 🙂 There are so many better ones out there than mine, but I do try. 🙂 I think the best time to visit Shetland is in the summer – July, usually. You get the best chance of good weather and the long days to explore. Shetland isn’t part of the Hebrides no, we’re north – up between Iceland, Scotland and Norway. I hope you get the chance to visit us some day!

July 27, 2018 at 11:52 pm

Ohhh this is fantastic! I stumbled upon your post looking for information about the Shetland Islands. It looks deliciously windblown and lovely! Such great pics, and great blog too!

June 29, 2018 at 9:58 am

Thanks for sharing so much information. Ideas like these are so useful for a travel freak like me! Looking forward to going for this road trip soon! 🙂

June 21, 2018 at 8:53 pm

What better place to get a destination guide than from a local! I love the details you’ve put into this and an obvious passion for your home. Thanks for sharing this on #MondayEscapes

June 21, 2018 at 1:31 pm

What a great little guide – thanks so much for putting this together! I’d definitely like to visit these islands… #MondayEscapes

June 19, 2018 at 8:35 am

Elizabeth this is an amazing resource for anyone planning the same trip. Thanks for linking to Monday Escapes

June 18, 2018 at 6:32 pm

Would love to tour the Shetland Islands one day. We were on Skye earlier this year and loved it. saw the ferry for the Shetland Islands! #MondayEscapes

June 18, 2018 at 12:43 pm

Wow, Elizabeth, I am impressed. It appears that you discovered just about all you can do in the Shetland Isles. I had never considered spending a whole week there until now.

June 10, 2018 at 2:01 pm

This is an amazing itinerary which I hope to put into use, Elizabeth! I haven’t heard of the Shetland Islands until now, but they seem like a real hidden gem. When would it be the best time of the year to undertake a road trip there?

June 2, 2018 at 7:57 pm

Brilliant itinerary Elizabeth, I live in Shetland and you have given me some good ideas for days out. Thanks x

May 30, 2018 at 9:48 am

I’ve never been to the Shetland Islands before, but it looks incredible there! When Nathan wakes up I’m telling him that we NEED to come visit as I want to come and explore RIGHT NOW!!!!

May 29, 2018 at 3:22 pm

The shetland islands are somewhere I have always wanted to visit! Your itinerary sounds great and absolutely jam packed x

May 29, 2018 at 2:59 pm

This place looks amazing, I have always wanted to go here. Now I want to go even more!

May 28, 2018 at 11:42 pm

Oh wow this is amazing! The shetland islands are somewhere I have always wanted to visit and now I just want to go even more! How beautiful!!

May 28, 2018 at 8:30 pm

This is brilliant, I have always wanted to do a road trip like this. I think I will add it to our bucket list. The places are stunning

May 28, 2018 at 7:32 pm

I like the idea of visiting the Shetlands in the winter when the atmosphere would be quite different from the summer months.

May 28, 2018 at 7:17 pm

That’s a jam packed itinary, I always love creating plans for trips but I had no idea how far the islands were x

May 28, 2018 at 7:05 pm

Wow! This looks amazing, I would love to visit and your itinaerary is amazing. Thanks for putting it together.

May 28, 2018 at 5:23 pm

Wow, thanks for the amazing insight. The itinerary is very comprehensive and I love that you have different options for different plans. Beautiful pictures xxx

May 28, 2018 at 2:26 pm

This truly looks like an amazing place to visit. What a thorough post. Great read and the pictures are beautiful! X

May 28, 2018 at 11:13 am

What a beautiful road trip full of gorgeous nature. That picture of the puffin is amazing! I love how you have got plans A, Band C for the trip – such a good idea.

May 28, 2018 at 11:07 am

This looks like an amazing itinerary. We are trying to do more UK based travel while our daughter is little and this looks like a really memorable and special trip. Especially the sea kayaking option would be fun for me.

May 27, 2018 at 4:56 pm

Wow this all looks amazing, I’d love to visit one day – so much to do and see!

May 27, 2018 at 4:07 pm

Wow I’ve never been to the Shetlands but look at those views!! If I ever do go I’ll be sure to refer back to this post! So informative and amazing photos. Xxx

May 27, 2018 at 3:53 pm

Fab guide. I’d love to bring the kids up to the Shetland Islands so this is such a handy post. I’m desperate to see the Northern Lights and have never seen a puffin in the wild so that’s two good reasons for starters. Your photos are stunning – it really does look so beautiful!

May 27, 2018 at 12:09 pm

This guide is epic! Such a good guide to be able to pack a lot in while you’re away xxx

May 27, 2018 at 10:18 am

I’ve just emailed this link to my sister. It’s just the kind of itinerary that appeals to us both – and the picture of the puffin alone will be enough to tempt her let alone the amount of planning and detail that’s gone into this. Seriously want to get on a plane right now.

May 26, 2018 at 10:42 pm

Aaaaaagh. I already really wanted to visit the Shetland Islands and now I almost feel I have to! What an awesome itinerary!

May 26, 2018 at 6:04 pm

Wow! Ever since i watched the TV drama Shetland, its all i have been thinking about when it comes to travels. I love this itinerary and it would be awesome to visit one day.

May 26, 2018 at 2:28 pm

It sounds like such an amazing place, with plenty to see and do. My dad used to travel to Lerwick quite a bit for work when I was growing up, but we never made it with him 🙁

May 26, 2018 at 11:05 am

I’ve always wanted to go to the Shetland Islands – they are so beautiful! Maybe when my kids are a bit older we can make it a reality as your 7 day journey makes me want to go even more!

May 26, 2018 at 10:44 am

That looks like such an adventure and the views are incredible! I definitely feel like I need to explore more of what’s close to home and across the UK instead of always going abroad for holidays xx

May 26, 2018 at 9:26 am

Northmavine looks amazing and I love that view of the lighthouse! I’ve never really considered the Shetland Isles but this is just gorgeous!

That bird photo is National Geographic material!

May 26, 2018 at 8:49 am

The Shetland Isles have been on my list for ages – my dad’s wife grew up here. The ferry journey (and long drive from southern UK) puts me off though, I’d definitely be in the cabin for the journey! Your itinerary sounds amazing though and right up my street, I love that it’s all personal recommendations.

May 25, 2018 at 3:43 pm

I’ve never been to the Shetland Islands, but your photographs and descriptions are amazing! I’m sure I’d love to visit this place some time in my life. 🙂

May 25, 2018 at 1:33 pm

I’ve never been to the Shetland Islands, but you’re pictures and adventure look and sound amazing! I’m now adding it to my bucket list of places to visit x

May 24, 2018 at 10:56 pm

Your photos look stunning but the weather can’t always be that good, can it?! 🙂

May 24, 2018 at 9:57 pm

I didn’t know very much about the Shetland Islands before now. It looks stunning though! Especially Northmavine and Unst. Hopefully I will get to follow your guide and see everything for myself one day.

May 24, 2018 at 8:02 pm

Wow this is such a helpful guide to the Shetland isles, it’s made me want to visit and take a road trip myself. It looks absolutely stunning! x

May 24, 2018 at 5:43 pm

I have always wanted to visit the Shetland Islands, so this post has me inspired!

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Shetland Islands Tourist Map Nicolsons

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Description:

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Product details

• Format  Sheet map
• Dimensions  135 x 240 x 15mm 128g
• Publication date   01 Sep 2018
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Lerwick, Shetland

Orkney & Shetland Island Hopping - Itinerary

So, what awaits you in Orkney and Shetland? For starters, each has a distinctive culture, natural wonders and a number of fascinating geological sites. Lying off Scotland's north coast, surrounded by crystal-clear waters, these two archipelagos are rather special places indeed.

Take a 12-day trip through this charming scattering of islands where you'll discover some of the most stunning coastal scenery in the world, remarkable wildlife, ancient archaeological sites, pristine beaches and much more.

You can fly directly to Orkney and Shetland with  Loganair .

• Distance 398 Miles 637 km
• Transport Car
• Main theme Islands

Day 1 Orkney - Kirkwall & Stromness

It's the first day of your adventure and it's going to be a good one! Get your bearings on Orkney's Mainland, the largest of the islands in Orkney, and explore town, coastline and the famous Skara Brae.

Kirkwall Kirkwall

Four brightly coloured fishing boats in the harbour at Kirkwall, decked with buoys and nets, with the stone buildings of the town lining the water

© Iain Sarjeant, all rights reserved.

Immerse yourself in the Orcadian capital of Kirkwall and learn about the island's fascinating history on a visit to its many historic sites including St Magnus Cathedral, a magnificent red sandstone building that dominates the skyline for miles around.

Stromness Stromness

Looking across the bay to Stromness harbour. The small houses sit right on the edge of the sea, each with a steep private jetty down to the water

© Daniel J Allen, all rights reserved.

The captivating old town of Stromness is located on the shore of Hamnavoe, an inlet of Scapa Flow, and is the main ferry port on Orkney. Stroll around the pretty town and pop into Stromness Museum to learn about Orkney's natural and maritime history. Feeling peckish? Then grab a bite to eat at one of the town's excellent cafés and bistros.

Yesnaby Orkney

Yesnaby Castle sea stack on the west coast of Orkney

Gaze out at the remarkable rock formation of Yesnaby Castle, a two-legged sea stack popular with climbers. Bring along binoculars and see how many different kinds of bird species you can spot while enjoying a revitalising coastal walk.

Yesnaby is also one of the few places where the rare and delicate flowering plant primula Scotica - more commonly known as Scottish primrose - grows. Visit in the summer when the clifftops are dotted with these vivid magenta flowers.

Skara Brae Prehistoric Village Sandwick

Skara Brae Prehistoric Village

Visit Skara Brae, one of the most remarkable prehistoric sites in the world. Older than the Egyptian pyramids, the Neolithic settlement is located on the Bay of Skaill. Uncovered by a sandstorm in 1850, it offers an unparalleled insight into how life was lived by Orkney's earliest inhabitants between 3200 and 2200 BC.

• On Public Transport Route
• Accessible Parking Or Drop-off Point
• Hearing Loop
• Cafe or Restaurant

Day 2 The Heart of Neolithic Orkney

Dedicate your second day in Orkney to unearthing the other archaeological treasures which form the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You might feel like you're Indiana Jones by the end of today!

Brough of Birsay Birsay

Looking Across To The Brough Of Birsay Across Skipi Geo From From The Whalebone On the Mainland.

© VisitScotland / Paul Tomkins

Make a stop at the Brough of Birsay, the remnants of Pictish and Viking settlements which are believed to date from the 7th -13th century. Here, you'll find traces of Viking and even older Pictish homes, the remains of a Viking monastery, an 11th century sauna, and the cast of a Pictish standing stone with its engravings still visible (the original is on display at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh).

Maeshowe Chambered Cairn Orkney

Maeshowe Chambered Cairn

Maeshowe is the finest chambered tomb in north west Europe and is more than 5,000 years old.

Viking crusaders broke into the cairn in the 12th century and carved graffiti runes on the walls of the main chamber. Maeshowe is part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site, along with Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar and the Stones of Stenness.

Ring of Brodgar Stromness

Ring of Brodgar

One of the finest stone circles in the world. Dating back from 2,500 to 2,000 BC, the stone ring was built in a true circle, 104 metres wide and originally contained sixty megaliths; today only twenty-seven of these stones remain.

Day 3 Isle of Hoy

Set off by ferry from Houton and head to the Isle of Hoy. Today you'll explore the second largest island in Orkney and enjoy its coastal delights.

Old Man of Hoy Hoy

Picnic At The Old Man Of Hoy, Orkney

© VisitScotland / Colin Keldie

Enjoy a bracing walk to the Old Man of Hoy, a dramatic sea stack which is the tallest in Britain and considered one of the most challenging ascents in the UK by climbers.

For detailed information about this walk, please visit the Walk Highlands website .

Scapa Flow Orkney

Why not explore the southern end of Hoy? At Scapa Flow Visitor Centre & Museum you can discover the major role Orkney played during both World Wars when the natural harbour of Scapa Flow served as a vital base for the British Royal Navy.

Day 4 Lamb Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay

Today you'll cross back to Orkney Mainland, before heading to other islands via the causeways known as the Churchill Barriers and getting a further insight into two very different eras of Orkney's history.

The Italian Chapel Orkney

The Italian Chapel

Visit the Italian Chapel, a beautiful Roman Catholic chapel in Lamb Holm which was constructed by Italian POWs during the Second World War.

• Level Access

Day 5 Westray

Take a ferry from Kirkwall to the Isle of Westray, where you can discover this island's natural beauty and unique heritage.

Westray Heritage Centre Westray

Westray Heritage Centre

Westray is famed for being the site of the discovery of the Orkney Venus. Also known as the Westray Wife, it's a small Neolithic figurine which is the oldest representation of a human form ever found in Scotland, and the oldest depiction of a human face ever uncovered in the UK. At the Westray Heritage Centre in Pierowall , you can even pick up scrumptious shortbread biscuits in the shape of the Orkney Venus. Never has archaeology tasted so scrumptious!

Westray Orkney

Pure white sand in the foreground in the bay of Pierowall gives way to turquoise water with green fields over the sea

© Iain Sarjeant / VisitScotland

One of the first places in Orkney to be settled by the Vikings, Westray is small enough to explore by bike or car over the course of a day. On the coastline, you might spot puffins or other seabirds. Pop into one of the island's art galleries and see artworks and crafts inspired by Westray's beautiful blend of coastline and landscape.

Day 6 Kirkwall

It's been a busy few days in Orkney, but your last day on these islands has finally arrived. Before you set off for Shetland, explore more of Kirkwall's cultural offerings.

Arts and crafts Kirkwall

St Magnus Cathedral

© Orkney.com

Uncover more of Orkney's flourishing arts and crafts scene, where everything from jewellery to furniture is made. Explore the town's many galleries and shops and keep your eyes peeled for unique items.

The Orkney Museum Kirkwall

The Orkney Museum

Enjoy a wander around the Orkney Museum. Housed inside a beautifully restored merchant's residence, the museum offers a fascinating insight into Orkney's rich archaeological heritage. 

Day 7 Lerwick

You are now 100 miles from the Scottish mainland on the most northerly of the British Isles! Wake up and disembark from the ferry in Lerwick, the main port and bustling capital of Shetland. Spend today getting to know this harbour town and see its sights.

Shetland Museum & Archives Lerwick

Shetland Museum and Archives

Set on the waterfront within a restored 19th century dock in Lerwick, this fascinating museum tells the story of Shetland’s heritage and culture. 

• Accessible toilets

Clickimin Broch Near Lerwick

Clickimin Broch in Lerwick at night

Make the most of the fresh air and head to Clickimin Broch, the remnants of an Iron Age defensive tower located just outside Lerwick.

Fort Charlotte Lerwick

A NorthLink ferry sails from Aberdeen to Lerwick

© NorthLink Ferries

In the heart of Lerwick you'll find Fort Charlotte, an 18th century five-sided artillery fort which was named after the wife of George III. Originally built to protect the Sound of Bressay from the Dutch, Fort Charlotte is now a training base of the Territorial Army.

Pubs and bars Lerwick

Fjarå Café Bar, Lerwick

© Promote Shetland / Euan Myles

Find a cosy watering hole in Lerwick where you can sit back and relax with a locally brewed ale. If you're lucky, you might even stumble upon a lively jam session held by local musicians. Shetland boasts a thriving local music scene and you'll find that many of its musicians gather in pubs and bars during the evenings.

Day 8 South Mainland

We suggest an early start today - there's a lot to fit in! Today you'll be heading south to experience remarkable heritage sites. Soak up the history and imagine life in eras gone by!

Shetland Crofthouse Museum Lerwick

Historical Shetland Crofthouse Museum

Step back in time at this restored 19th century thatched cottage and see how Shetlanders would have lived in the 1870s.

Jarlshof Prehistoric & Norse Settlement South Mainland

Jarlshof Prehistoric & Norse Settlement, Sumburgh

The Jarlshof Prehistoric and Norse settlements in Shetland are one of the most important and inspirational archaeological sites in Scotland.

Old Scatness Broch South Mainland

Old Scatness

Another amazingly well-preserved archaeological site is Old Scatness Broch, the remnants of an ancient village which lay buried for almost 2,000 years before being unearthed by archaeologists. Find out about the Neolithic, Pictish and Viking people who lived here at the site's excellent interpretive centre, and on guided tours which are available through the summer months.

Please note that Old Scatness is only open on Fridays. 

Sumburgh Head Nature Reserve South Mainland

Waves crashing into a large rock in the sea.

Sumburgh Head is located at the southern tip of mainland Shetland with the majestic 100 metre cliffs offering a fantastic, unobstructed view of the seabird colonies and marine life surrounding it.

• Pets Welcome

Mousa Broch Sandwick

A couple exploring Mousa Broch

You can take a boat out to see one of Europe's finest archaeological marvels. Standing at a height of more than 13 m, Mousa Broch is the most impressive and best preserved Iron Age tower in Scotland. After a short boat crossing from Sandwick, you can climb the narrow steps to the top of the broch and take in breathtaking views across Mousa Sound.  If you take the boat trip in the evening, you might witness a thrilling natural spectacle, when swarms of storm petrels seek the cover of darkness and return to their nests inside the broch.

St Ninian's Isle South Mainland

St Ninian's Isle, joined to Mainland by a tombolo of sand at Bigton, Shetland.

© VisitScotland / Paul Tomkins, all rights reserved.

St. Ninians Isle beach is a large natural sand causeway with sea on either side. On the west coast of Shetland, it links the South Mainland with the Isle. This is the location where a horde of silver Viking treasure was discovered hidden beneath the island's chapel in 1958.

Day 9 Central Mainland

Explore the central mainland of Shetland, including the sheltered seaport of Scalloway, only 6 miles from Lerwick. It was known as the capital of the islands till 1708 and has had its fair share of history.

Scalloway Museum Shetland

Scalloway Museum

Visit the Scalloway Museum and discover the fascinating story of the Shetland Bus, the name given to a covert wartime operation. Conducted between the Royal Navy and the Norwegian Resistance, it involved Shetland fishing vessels helping to transport supplies, weapons and Allied agents out of Nazi-occupied Norway. The Museum also has exhibits covering Ancient Scalloway, The Boom Years and Scalloway’s people.

Central Mainland Shetland

Central Mainland

Make your way to Whiteness and Weisdale, passing through the Tingwall Valley, where the Vikings are said to have held their annual parliament. Whiteness and Weisadale are popular walking spots. There's an abundance of indigenous flora and fauna, pretty bays and some of the loveliest views in all of Shetland.

Day 10 North West Mainland

Today, explore the north west part of the Shetland Mainland, known as the Northmavine peninsula, and discover local history and stretch your legs and see the best of Shetland's landscape on a rejuvenating walk!

Tangwick Haa Museum North Mainland

Tangwick Haa Museum

Originally built in the late 17th century for the Cheyne family, owners of the Tangwick estate, Tangwick Haa was converted into a local history museum in the late 1980s which displays exhibits relating to the development of Northmavine and its people.

Eshaness Eshaness

The Eshaness Cliffs

Soak up the area's natural beauty on the picturesque circular walking route and discover some of Shetland's wildest and most breathtaking coastline.

Day 11 Unst

Cross from the Mainland to the island of Yell, and then catch the 10 minute ferry crossing to neighbouring Unst, Britain's most northerly island to uncover the remnants of the Vikings, see incredible geology and admire the island's natural heritage.

Viking Heritage on Unst Unst

Jarl Squad March with their replica Viking galley

Explore the excavated Viking longhouse sites of Unst. Highlights of which include the reconstructed longhouse at Hamar and the nearby Skidbladner, an impressive replica Gokstad ship. Managed by the Shetland Amenity Trust, you can find out just what the digs revealed about the Norse Vikings who settled on the islands.

Unst Heritage Centre Unst

Unst Heritage Centre

The island has the distinction of being home to the highest number of Viking longhouse remnants in the world. At Unst Heritage Museum and Unst Boat Haven in Haroldswick, find out more about the archaeological digs and Shetland's maritime history.

Hermaness National Nature Reserve Shetland

Hermaness National Nature Reserve

Unst is a bit of a nature lover's paradise, and a visit to one of its beautiful National Nature Reserves is a must. Explore the sweeping hillsides of Keen of Hamar or at Hermaness, walk to the dramatic cliff and see thousands of breeding seabirds, such a puffins, kittiwakes and fulmars.

Day 12 Yell

It's the final day! Depart Unst and start to make your way back to Shetland Mainland. Before you leave Shetland and catch the evening ferry departure from Lerwick, you might just have time to catch some of Yell's natural highlights. You'll find some of the best beaches in the UK!

Sands of Breckon Yell

The Sands Of Breckon (An Award Winning White Sand Beach And Arguably Shetland's Finest), On The Island Of Yell, Shetland

In the very north of the island, you can discover the Sands of Breckon, where shell sand dunes are bordered by crystal clear waters and dune grass lands.

West Sandwick Yell

West Sandwick

Visit West Sandwick on Yell's western coastline, close to the villages of Shandwick and Balintore and enjoy a stroll along unspoilt white sands.

Old Haa Yell

At Burravore in the south of the island, discover the story of Yell's folklore and history at the Old Haa, a museum set in the house of a 17th century laird. You can also see artworks by local creative talents, or tuck into some home-baking in the tearoom.

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• Trips and tours
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Shetland has a range of tour operators offering trips on both land and sea. Most specialise in a particular area, allowing you to build your holiday around your interests, or you can pick and choose the things you'd like to do to create your ultimate Shetland experience.