bar tasca tour

Reloute Bar Tasca Tour

4.7 x Star (1,500+) • €3.50 Fee • Fast Food • Bar Food • Burgers • Portuguese • $ • Info

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Alhandra, Lisboa

Available at 6:00 PM

6:00 PM - 3:00 AM

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€4.10 • Thumb up outline  97% (135)

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€3.80 • Thumb up outline  92% (50)

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€3.90 • Thumb up outline  77% (9)

6:00 PM – 3:00 AM

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• Hambúrguer Especial €4.90 • Thumb up outline  97% (685) Queijo, tomate, batata palha, cebola, ovo e bacon
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• Sandes Vegetariana €3.90 • Thumb up outline  77% (9) Queijo, ovo, cenoura, cebola, milho, cogumelos, alface, tomate e batata palha
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Bar Tasca Tour

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• Espetada Tour

"Venturing to Funchal's Outskirts"

Dive deep into the outskirts of Funchal, embarking on a cheeky 3-hour exploration of local bars that echo Madeira’s vibrant culinary heritage. The TASKA tour is a gastronomic delight that invites you to sample “dentinhos” – our unique dishes that speak louder than words.

From the zesty scabbard and octopus to the richly flavored giblets, pork, chicken, and tuna, every bite is a homage to Madeiran traditions. Don’t forget our bolo do caco bread, lupins, fava beans, and a surprising array of other local specialties.

Quench your thirst with eclectic drinks, embracing local recipes. Be it the invigorating punch of poncha, the sweet notes of Nikita, or the rustic charm of pe de cabra, every sip tells a tale. Dive into local beers, ciders, and Madeira wine, each a reflection of our island’s lush landscape and culture.

But beyond the food and drinks lies the essence of our journey – the stories of each establishment we visit. With histories that span decades, these local treasures offer a glimpse into how our locals socialize, celebrate, and savor life.

Testimonials

Great experience with fabio and jaki.

ShutUpAndEatMadeira takes tours to another level. We were on the second Espetada tour they did and it was a great experience. Knowing them, I guess it will only get better. We enjoyed the company of Fabio (guide) and Jaki from ShutUpAndEatMadeira. Going to the outskirts of Funchal, drinking the best ponchas and having great bites (dentinhos) in local bars, was wonderfull. De tour takes you to some must see spots in and around Funchal. Doing this during sunset is a plus. The Espetada restaurant was a real local place, no tourists except us. Food was great. Go and enjoy an evening with great company at local bars and restaurants, away from the beaten track.

ROB via Tripadvisor - Sep 2023

ShutUpAndEatMadeira takes tours to another level. We were on the second Espetada tour they did and it was a great experience. Knowing them, I guess it will only get better. We enjoyed the company of Fabio (guide) and Jaki from ShutUpAndEatMadeira. Going to the outskirts of Funchal, drinking the best ponchas and having great bites (dentinhos) in local bars, was wonderfull. De tour takes you to some must see spots in and around Funchal. Doing this during sunset is a plus. The Espetada restaurant was a real local place, no tourists except us. Food was great. Go and enjoy an evening with great company at local bars and restaurants, away from the beaten track. ROB via Tripadvisor - Sep 2023

Amazing Tasca Tour with Hit the Road Madeira!

If you are on the fence about this tour, take my advice - just do it. You'll go to places around Funchal that you probably wouldn't visit by yourself, and you'll get the benefit of the owners treating you really well cause of that YouTube guy - Best Vlog in the world or something like that. Plus, Hit The Road Madeira guides are so nice, like just down-to-earth and genuine people.Nuno gave me the best hug when he dropped us off, it made my day

Denise P via Tripadvisor - Oct 2023

If you are on the fence about this tour, take my advice - just do it. You'll go to places around Funchal that you probably wouldn't visit by yourself, and you'll get the benefit of the owners treating you really well cause of that YouTube guy - Best Vlog in the world or something like that. Plus, Hit The Road Madeira guides are so nice, like just down-to-earth and genuine people.Nuno gave me the best hug when he dropped us off, it made my day Denise P via Tripadvisor - Oct 2023

Sit back and enjoy!

What a great time! I did this tour a few times. Both Fábio and Nuno were amazing guides. Each time was amazingly unique in its own way. Don’t shy away from taking this tour more than once (or more than twice…). It’s the best way to go to some hard to find local spots and try all types of drinks, such as Nikitas, Pé de Cabra, and of course the different Ponchas, along with their yummy dentinhos. Some places even had a wide variety of beers not found at many of the touristy spots. Whether you’re a local or a tourist, this is the best, laid back way to get around in comfort while letting someone else take you on a delicious gastronomical journey.

Jaki via Tripadvisor

What a great time! I did this tour a few times. Both Fábio and Nuno were amazing guides. Each time was amazingly unique in its own way. Don’t shy away from taking this tour more than once (or more than twice…). It’s the best way to go to some hard to find local spots and try all types of drinks, such as Nikitas, Pé de Cabra, and of course the different Ponchas, along with their yummy dentinhos. Some places even had a wide variety of beers not found at many of the touristy spots. Whether you’re a local or a tourist, this is the best, laid back way to get around in comfort while letting someone else take you on a delicious gastronomical journey. Jaki via Tripadvisor

Two times with Shut up and Eat 🤩😍

My two tours with Shut up and eat featuring the exceptional guides Fábio, Nuno and Jaki from the office-team from Hit the Road Madeira were absolutely fantastic! 🤩 The Tasca Tour take me to cool local bars, offering not just delicious Ponchas and bites but also fascinating insights in the local life. The Espetada Tour began with a very good Poncha and led to an amazing and delicious local Espetada restaurant with thorough explanations. Overall i had two absolutely amazing new created tours from HTRM and a comfortable, enjoyable experience. Highly recommended for a great time and a genuine feel of the local scene! THANK YOU… 🙏🏽 and see you next year again… 🤗😘

Kathy via Tripadvisor - Sep 2023

My two tours with Shut up and eat featuring the exceptional guides Fábio, Nuno and Jaki from the office-team from Hit the Road Madeira were absolutely fantastic! 🤩 The Tasca Tour take me to cool local bars, offering not just delicious Ponchas and bites but also fascinating insights in the local life. The Espetada Tour began with a very good Poncha and led to an amazing and delicious local Espetada restaurant with thorough explanations. Overall i had two absolutely amazing new created tours from HTRM and a comfortable, enjoyable experience. Highly recommended for a great time and a genuine feel of the local scene! THANK YOU… 🙏🏽 and see you next year again… 🤗😘 Kathy via Tripadvisor - Sep 2023

Great food, great experience and a wonderful evening

It’s pretty easy to find a great meal in Madeira, but we wanted to have a truly great dining experience, so we booked a tour with Shut Up and Eat from the folks at Hit the Road Madeira, and it was wonderful! We made several stops prior to dinner including some overlooks that seemed like almost secret locations set aside just for us and of course, a stop for poncha. We were in Madeira for 2 weeks and I got my favorite sunset picture on this tour! Then came dinner, at Nicola, where we grilled our own skewers of beef on the open bed of coals from a wood fired grill. The food was great and the entire experience was well worth it. Our guide, Fabio, was more than a guide, he was our host and the gatekeeper to all of the experiences of our lovely evening.

Don B via Tripadvisor - Oct 2023

It’s pretty easy to find a great meal in Madeira, but we wanted to have a truly great dining experience, so we booked a tour with Shut Up and Eat from the folks at Hit the Road Madeira, and it was wonderful! We made several stops prior to dinner including some overlooks that seemed like almost secret locations set aside just for us and of course, a stop for poncha. We were in Madeira for 2 weeks and I got my favorite sunset picture on this tour! Then came dinner, at Nicola, where we grilled our own skewers of beef on the open bed of coals from a wood fired grill. The food was great and the entire experience was well worth it. Our guide, Fabio, was more than a guide, he was our host and the gatekeeper to all of the experiences of our lovely evening. Don B via Tripadvisor - Oct 2023

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Best tascas in Porto

Before I started writing this guide of the best tascas in Porto I went to the dictionary to see what,…

Before I started writing this guide of the best tascas in Porto I went to the dictionary to see what, after all, is a tasca . At a time when cities are losing its traditional establishments and there is a vulgarization of the concepts “gourmet” and “artisanal”, it seemed reasonable to search the meaning of the word.

According to the Portuguese dictionary, tasca means:

• Modest establishment that sells drinks and meals.

And it is with this concept in mind – and not that of gourmet taverns – that I propose you to discover the best tascas in Porto.

Meanwhile, if you are a real foodie and you want to understand the Portuguese food culture, I suggest you to join a Food tour in Porto . I used to guide Food tours in the city and I can assure you it is a super fun, relaxing and informative way of discovering the Portuguese food scene!

These are the best tascas in Porto:

Adega viseu no porto, rua da madeira, 212 | porto.

About a year ago I discovered this Porto tavern, right next to São Bento train station , and since then I’ve been a fan because it is one of the best cheap restaurants in Porto . Every day there is a lunch menu with plenty of traditional Portuguese dishes. But I don’t even waste time with that: I go straight to the counter to check the snacks of the day – rissóis , some delicious fried cod and octopus in green sauce, to mention a few – and I order two or three plates. A dry and fine chat to follow and I don’t need anything else in life. How to get there: São Bento train station is across the street.

Adega do Quim

Rua da madeira 226 | porto.

Adega do Quim, right next to Adega Viseu in Porto, is one of the few tascas in Porto that opens at dawn , to the delight of those who wake up very early (or lie down too late). In fact, since six in the morning you can find delicious pork loin sandwiches, steaming gizzards, croquettes and even steak. So it is the ideal place to pick up some sandwiches before taking the train (or before falling asleep – sometimes life gets too hard after partying all night). How to get there: São Bento station is across the street.

Tasca Casa Louro

Rua de cimo de vila, 80 | porto.

Rua da Estação, 16 | Porto

Snack Bar Gazela

Travessa cimo de vila, 4 | porto.

Travessa de Miraflor, 15 | Porto

It is one of the best tascas in Porto to eat well and for a bargain, since a generous meal, accompanied by drink and coffee, is a modest 6€.

How to get there: Campanhã station is a 5 minutes walking distance.

Casa Expresso

Praça de carlos alberto, 73 | porto.

Regarding Casa Expresso, it should be noted that there are two, interconnected: Casa Expresso restaurant, and Casa Expresso “tasca in Porto”. In both you will be well served, but I am writing about Casa Expresso tasca . There you can eat some of the best rojões (fried pork cubes) in the city, Porto-style tripes’ stew, fried liver served with caramelised onions (I can’t resist) and other honest examples of traditional Portuguese food. How to get there: the metro station Aliados is a 5 minutes walking distance.

Adega Alfredo Portista

Rua do cativo, 14 | porto.

Rua das Oliveiras 8 | Rua Jorge Reinel 7

Rua de Sá de Noronha, 137 | Porto

Rua do Bonjardim, 318 | Porto

Escondidinho do Barredo

Rua dos canastreiros, 28 | porto.

Temporary Market of Bolhão

Rua de fernandes tomás, 506 | porto.

Rua da Picaria, 26 | Porto

Badalhoca is not only one of the best tascas in Porto but also one of the places where I have the most fun. After all, it is not every day that we are signaled with a roaring bell when we ask for a bottle of water (it is the affectionate form of A Badalhoca to embarrass non alcohol drinkers in front of all their friends!). At Badalhoca you will find not only delicious PO (ham and egg sandwiches) but also other Portuguese snacks such as octopus in green sauce, pataniscas (codfish patties), pork’s ears salad and fried liver. How to get there: the Aliados metro station is a 5 minutes walking distance.

Adega Rio Douro

Rua do ouro, 223 | porto.

However, Adega Rio Douro deserves a visit any day of the week because it has the best fried cod in Porto and nothing else matters.

How to get there: take tram 1 or the bus 500.

Casa Guedes

Praça dos poveiros, 130 | porto.

Taberna Santo António

Rua das virtudes, 32 | porto.

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Travel Tips to Kabardino-Balkaria: More than Mt. Elbrus!

If you’ve traveled to the North Caucasus before, there is a good chance you’ve already been to Kabardino-Balkaria, and you didn’t even know it!  Kabardino-Balkaria lies in the center of the North Caucasus region, is home to Mt. Elbrus, but more than that is a treasure chest of travel possibilities.  Here is our guide to traveling through the republic of Kabardino-Balkaria, or 9 travel tips to this beautiful land:

1. How do I get there?

Kabardino-Balkaria hosts a large number of both foreign and Russian travelers every year, and has an improving infrastructure able to handle the incoming masses.  Let’s start with the obvious.  You might be a mountain climber or skier coming to enjoy the slopes of Mt. Elbrus.  That means you’re likely arriving on an airplane to Russia.  Here are your travel options:

A. Plane – We advise you fly into the Mineralni Vodi (MRV) airport in the Stavropol Region, which is about 45 minutes from the border of Kabardino-Balkaria.  MRV is the largest airport in the North Caucasus, and has daily direct flights to and from all 3 airpots in Moscow (SVO, DME, and VKO), direct flights from St. Petersburg, and several international flight routes as well, including from Istanbul, Dubai, Greece, Tel Aviv, and Bishkek.  The MRV airport has a growing infrastructure and is the most obvious choice to fly into if going to Elbrus.  From MRV, it’s a 2 hr. drive to Nalchik, and a 3.5 hr. drive to Mt. Elbrus.

That being said, the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, Nalchik (NAL), also has a small regional airport with a daily flight to/from Moscow as well as weekly flights to Istanbul. As is to be expected in most smaller, regional airports around Russia, the service standard at a small airport like this will be minimal.  As a result, we recommend you flying in and out of MRV if able.  It’s a 2 hr. drive to Elbrus from Nalchik.  You can also fly into other regional airports which are 2 hrs. from Nalchik, such as OGZ in North Ossetia (Vladikavkaz) or IGT in Ingushetia (Magas).

B.  Car/Public Transport – If you have a car, are using a taxi, or are hitch-hiking your way to Kabardino-Balkaria, the region is accessible by a variety of roads and vehicles.  A major Russian federal highway E50 runs through Pyatigorsk into Kabardino-Balkaria, and can take you towards Mt. Elbrus, Nalchik, and deeper into the North Caucasus.  There are daily mini-buses, or “marshrutkas”, that travel to Nalchik from Pyatigorsk, Vladikavkaz, Grozny, and Magas, if you’re coming from a neighboring republic.  From the main Nalchik bus station, there is a marshrutka that goes to Terskol (i.e. Mt. Elbrus) daily around 12:30 pm; for that matter,  marshrutkas run daily into every valley of this beautiful republic.  For the seasoned international traveler, you can drive from the country of Georgia up the famed “Georgian Military Highway” through the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, cross the border into Russia at the “Verkhni Lars” border stop, and be in Nalchik in about 2.5 hours as well. 

Anyone traveling on their own should download the “Yandex” taxi app, which is Russia’s version of Uber, and has a very user-friendly app with affordable prices.  In smaller villages/towns where Yandex’s service doesn’t reach, just ask a local and they’ll direct you to a friend or relative who can taxi you where you need to go!

C.  Train – Kabardino-Balkaria is also very accessible by the famous cross-country Russian train system if that’s your preferred method of travel.  Almost all trains to the North Caucasus pass through Mineralni Vodi in the Stavropol region to the north, so make sure wherever you are coming from, Mineralni Vodi is one of the stops.  Despite Nalchik having a train station, the city is about 45 minutes from the main railway route that runs diagonal through the North Caucasus, and as a result it’s a bit convoluted to get a train directly to Nalchik.  That being said, the town Prokhladni is a regular stop on trains going to/coming from Baku, Makhachkala, Grozny, Nazran, and Vladikavkaz, so you can always hop off there and find your way by public transport or taxi.

2.  What are the best places to stay?

This list could get exhaustive, fast. 🙂  Let’s first look at an overview of the republic’s geography, followed by hotel recommendations:

A. Nalchik – This is the capital city of Kabardino-Balkaria, with a population of around 250,000.  Nalchik is growing and new, modern hotels are being built regularly.  Here are some of our recommendations:

-Modern and comfortable:  Azimut , Butik Otel

-Budget with less frills:  Hotel Rossia , Korona

You could comfortably spend a week in Nalchik, while doing day trips into Kabardino-Balkaria’s beautiful mountain valleys.

B.  Baksan Valley – This is the most traveled road in Kabardino-Balkaria, the road to Mt. Elbrus.  If you have questions about its safety because of travel warnings, please see our detailed blog here of the drive to erase any doubts or fears.  Needless to say, because of the draw of Mt. Elbrus, there are a huge variety of lodging options at the end of this valley, from 4-star to mid-range to budget to hostel.  Here are just a few we’ll recommend from our experience:

-Modern and comfortable 4-star-ish:  Azau Star , Kristall 139

-Budget with less frills 3-star-ish:   Laguna , Povorot

If you’re a mountain climber with your sites set on the summit of Elbrus, you’ll have to spend at least 3-4 nights at Elbrus’s famous base camp at 13,000 feet.  The “barrel huts” are not easy to book directly with, and we highly recommend you do your climb (and hence, have your bookings handled) through a trusted climbing company.  Here are two shelters at base camp we recommend:

-Modern and comfortable:  Leaprus

-Budget with less frills:  Heart of Elbrus Lodge

If you’re interested in climbing Mt. Elbrus and staying in these barrel huts, click  here  to see our climbing itineraries, pricing, and group dates.

C.  Chegem Valley – Chegem Valley is the adjacent valley to Elbrus’s Baksan Valley, and is famous for its beautiful waterfalls as well as being Russia’s top paragliding location.  The “ Paradrome ” has modest accommodations for those wanting to get to know this beautiful valley for a longer period of time.

D.  Upper Balkaria, or Cherek Valley – This is another beautiful mountain gorge not too far from Nalchik.  There is an authentic lodging complex in Upper Balkaria called Tau-El, with amazing local food for meals as well.

E.  Border Zone lodging – Several of Kabardino-Balkaria’s mountain gorges run into the border zone with neighboring country Georgia, i.e. an area that foreigners cannot enter without a special permit from the local government (often taking 2 months to receive).  There is a famous mountaineering lodge in Bezengi Valley, where several generations of Russian mountain climbers have honed their craft in the Caucasus Mountains.  Perpendicular to Baksan Valley (about 25 minutes from the base of Mt. Elbrus) is Adyr-Suu Valley, where there is a lodge for back-country skiers to stay, while trying their hands (and feet!) on the untouched snow of that valley.  Both these valleys require border permits for foreigners, but are possible to access for the more adventurous!

3.  Top cities to visit?

Most locals would agree that Nalchik is the main city of significance to visit in Kabardino-Balkaria, but let’s be honest, even more would say, “Just go to the mountains!”  Tirnauz is the capital of the Elbrus district, and is an interesting town to spend some time in, with its unique location in the mountains and place in Soviet history as a once-booming mining town.  The main thing to consider in visiting Nalchik and other cities in the lowlands, is the chance to experience Kabardian culture and food.  Whereas the deeper you go into the valleys, the more you’ll encounter Balkar culture and food.

4.  Best local foods to try?

There are 3 types of food that come to mind, when spending time in Kabardino-Balkaria:

A. Khychiny – This is one of the staple national dishes of the Balkar people, and what you’ll inevitably be served if guests of local Balkars.  It’s a thin buttery flat bread, sometimes cooked with fillings of cottage cheese, fresh greens, or potatoes.  It is often slathered in butter, but wow is that some tasty greasy goodness! 🙂

B.  Shashlik – Shashlik is a MUST for any visit anywhere in the North Caucasus!  Most people would agree that it’s the national food of the entire region.  Shashlik is meat shish kabobs; while pork and turkey can be found in some parts of the Caucasus, lamb or chicken are the preferred shashlik meats of choice in Kabardino-Balkaria. 

C.  Soup – No matter where you are in Russia, you’re sure to find a local soup that people love.  Kabardino-Balkaria is no different.  Especially in the winter months in the mountain valleys, there’s nothing better than to come inside from the cold weather and warm your body up to a bowl of hearty Caucasus soup.  Whether Georgian kharcho or local Balkar lakhman, make sure to try your hand at one of these soups with a side of fresh baked bread/lavash!

5.  Top Hole-In-The-Wall restaurants:

Of course, for a republic of this size, we’re bound to leave at least a few great local joints off our list, but here are a few to get you started. ***Note:  Restaurants in the North Caucasus are much better known for their food than their service, so prepare for tasty food, but manage your expectations about service:

-Elbrus – Kogutai Restaurant at Mt. Cheget – While this isn’t a hole-in-the-wall restaurant per se, it’s one of many to choose from in the Cheget tourist village, and we have found them to provide consistently good food and service.  Kogutai has a nice interior, and maybe most important, an English-language menu with good pictures. 🙂  There also is a nice outdoor patio with fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.

-Nalchik #1 – Tameris Restaurant – This is a cafe with a relaxed atmosphere in the capital Nalchik.  Local tour company Elbrus Elevation has taken foreign groups there on multiple occasions and always had good experiences.  Address is ul. Kuliyeva 3. 

-Nalchik #2 – Cafe-Bar Oasis – You have to know where this restaurant is to find it, but once inside, you won’t regret it!  There is a unique cafeteria-style ordering process, that includes several dishes being cooked on the spot once ordered.  You can sample local Kabardian dishes here.  The seating area is very modern and a pleasant atmosphere to have a meal in.  Address is ul. Kuliyeva 2. 

-Upper Balkaria – Tau-El Restaurant – This is the restaurant part of the Tau-El Tourist Complex in Upper Balkaria.  Whether spending the night or just passing through, make sure to stop here for a meal!

6.  Must-See Sites

This republic is so chock full of “must-see” destinations, it’s impossible to narrow the list down.  Here are just a few suggestions to get you started: (***Mt. Elbrus is a no-brainer and we’re assuming that’s on your list)

A. El-Tyubu and Paradrome – This is an amazing area towards the end of Chegem Valley.  Many tourists visit the famous Chegem Waterfalls and don’t drive any further down this gorge, which really is a shame.  El-Tyubu is a picturesque Balkar village with several historical sites to see, including some ancient mausoleums.  The real gem of the area, though, is the Paradrome , which is Russia’s premier paragliding destination.  The combination of the scenic surrounding mountains and constant winds produces almost daily conditions to sail through the beautiful Caucasus sky.  Highly recommend!

B.  Upper Balkaria – Also known as Cherek Valley, the entire drive to the actual village of Upper Balkaria is one big destination.  First, you can spend time at the 3 consecutive “ Blue Lakes ”, one of which is one of Russia’s deepest lakes with an underground spring.  Then, the drive itself becomes an adventure, as you pass by steep rock walls with a huge drop-off on the other side.  If you’re able to walk this part of the road, that is a bonus!  Once you’ve made your way through the valley walls, the region opens up into a beautiful panoramic view.  Many years ago, there were multiple villages in this region, but they’ve since been condensed into one main village.  You can see some of the ancient Balkar towers that their ancestors used to live in as well.

C.  Djili-Suu – Although hard to pronounce and not easy to get to, Djili-Suu is one of those places in the North Caucasus that people rave about that you “have to” visit.  It’s actually on the North side of Mt. Elbrus, and more accessible from the Mineral Waters region (2 hrs. from Kislovodsk).  The base camp for Elbrus climbers summiting the mountain from the North side is at Djili-Suu.  This area is famous in Russia for its numerous natural healing springs, as well as unique climate conditions that make for beneficial, long holidays for seeking a respite from their daily grind.  There are wide swaths of land available for camping, with probably the most unrivaled views of Mt. Elbrus in the North Caucasus.  Make sure to check this out!

7.  Off-the-beaten path destinations

A. King’s Waterfalls (Tsarskie), or Gedmisht – Probably the valley in Kabardino-Balkaria with the least amount of hype is the Malka Valley, which is the northernmost valley and mainly runs through the Kabardian lowlands.  At the point where the villages end, though (Khabas), the asphalt turns into dirt and the hills start to rise, culminating with the incredible King’s Waterfalls, or as one friend put it, Avatar Waterfalls.  These stunning waterfalls are best visited in the early summer, when everything is lush green and the water flow is strong, with many streams of water flowing down the earth’s surface.  The different colors are incredible and it’s hard to look away.  Once you’ve enjoyed the waterfalls, enjoy a meal of shashlik at one of the nearby lunch huts.  Having an off-road vehicle is ideal to visit these falls, but worth the time and effort!

B.  One-seater chair lift at Elbrus – As the infrastructure at Mt. Elbrus has modernized, some of the more “authentic” experiences have gone to the way-side.  This is one experience still available, though!  From the 2nd (11,000 ft.) to 3rd level (12,500 ft.) of Mt. Elbrus (whether skiing, going to base camp, or just touring), there is a single-seater chair lift for 100 rubles each way (less than $2).  This is an amazing experience if you have the time.  It’s 8-10 minutes each way, and a surreal experience of the majestic Caucasus mountain range surrounding you, skiers silently passing you by underneath, and in general enjoying the silent expanse of nature all around.  The chair lifts are from the Soviet times and so it feels like something from a different era.  For mountain climbers, the newer group cable car gives better access to most of base camp, but several huts are pretty close to this chair lift, so it still may be a good option for you.

C.  Abandoned Mines above Tirnauz – Tirnauz is about 1 hr. from Mt. Elbrus, and a town everyone drives through to and from the mountain.  Although today it looks old and half-abandoned, it was a booming mining town in the 20th century.  About a 45-minute drive above the city with an off-road vehicle, you can see the remains of the mining operations.  Learning about this history combined with the breath-taking views of the Baksan Valley and even into Georgia, you’ll wonder why more people aren’t visiting this place.  This is a great spot to see eagles soaring in the sky, as well as admire the Soviet city plan of Tirnauz from above.

8.  What do I need border zone passes to visit?

In Russia, any area within 5-10 km of a neighboring country, without a clearly delineated border (i.e. in the mountains) is considered a special border zone, and patrolled by Russian border guards.  This area IS accessible to all Russian citizens with their passports, but is NOT legally accessible to foreign citizens UNLESS you have a special permit from the FSB (Federal Security Bureau).  These permits are accessible, either through a tour operator or local friend, but require you to submit your application 45-60 days in advance.

Areas in Kabardino-Balkaria that are worth a visit if you have a border zone pass:

A.  Bezengi Wall – This is at the end of the Bezengi Valley, and holds a place of lore among Russian mountain climbers.  Many mountain guides go through training in this valley.  Five of the Caucasus Mountain’ range’s highest seven peaks are a part of the Bezengi Wall, so you can imagine the draw it has for climbers. There are great areas for trekking and camping in this area. 

B.  Adyr-Suu Gorge – This remote valley runs perpendicular to Baksan Valley and is about 25 minutes from the base of Mt. Elbrus.  It’s marked at the entrance by a relic of the past, a car lift from Soviet days that auto-cranks your car (and you) about 50 meters up the mountain.  After 45-60 minutes of driving on gravel road, the gorge opens up into a flat valley with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains.  The Adyr-Suu Alpine Lodge is at the end of this valley and where back-country skiers base out of during the acclimatization phase of their Mt. Elbrus ski tours.  This is truly a place where you can experience untouched powder!

C.  Mt. Cheget (Elbrus) – Cheget is a neighboring mountain to Mt. Elbrus and where many climbers will acclimatize, both at its base and while doing some hikes.  It also is famous in Russia for its free-ride terrain for more experienced skiers.  Standard access to the chair lifts and mountain are available to all (i.e. mountain climbers don’t need to worry about accidentally crossing into the zone), but anyone wanting to summit the peak of Cheget OR visit the beautiful Cheget Lake needs a border permit. 

Foreigners violating the border zone areas is considered a serious offense in Russia; make sure to do your due diligence if wanting to visit one of these areas!  We highly recommend using a local tour operator and always traveling with a local person if visiting one of these areas.

9.  Any cultural “do’s” or “don’t’s” to be aware of

Kabardino-Balkaria is a fascinating republic with a combination of traditional and modern society.  The more you interact with local people, the more you’ll see a mixture of Muslim faith, post-Soviet mentality, and ancient local traditions all wrapped together.   

Kabardians mainly live in the lowlands (Nalchik, Baksan, and lowland villages), while Balkars primarily live in the mountain valleys (Elbrus, Chegem, Upper Balkaria, etc.).  There is a large population of Russians in the region as well.  Foreigners visit every area of the region regularly, and so local people are used to and will welcome your presence.

Come with an open mind to learn about these peoples, their traditions, and their land.  You won’t regret your trip to Kabardino-Balkaria!

***Want to learn more?  Here are several self-published resources from the podcast “ CaucasTalk ” related to Kabardino-Balkaria:

– Travel Tips to Kabardino-Balkaria (audio version of this blog)

– History of Mt. Elbrus (Part 1)

– History of Mt. Elbrus (Part 2)

– Interview with Local Elbrus guide

– Climbing Elbrus: Interview with American guide

– Who are the Kabardians? (Part 1)

– Who are the Kabardians? (Part 2)

– Skiing in the North Caucasus (Elbrus and more)

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9 places in Kabardino-Balkaria every adventurer needs to visit (PHOTOS)

An amazing journey through the mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria.

Together with local tour guide Artyem Babaritsky, we show you why this is one of the most underrated regions of Russia. According to Artem, the nature on the territory of Kabardino Balkaria is more “rigid” and “serious” than in the neighboring republics of the Caucasus. This is comparable to a human face: one moment it is kind and smiling (while we are in the Karachay-Cherkessia) and then suddenly this kind face starts to frown and becomes more severe.

The most famous attraction of the republic – and the Caucasus in general – is Mount Elbrus, the highest peak of the European continent. With a mighty height of 5,642 meters above sea level, Elbrus is actually a dormant volcano. Its permanent icecap feeds 22 glaciers, which, in turn, give rise to the Baksan, Kuban and Malka rivers.

Naturally, if you’re into mountain climbing, this is a peak that you will want to conquer at least once in your lifetime. Here are some detailed accounts of what it entails.

And this is what you’ll see along the way.

Not into mountain climbing? Not to worry! In summer, you can still reach an altitude of 3,658 meters from the bottom of the Azau Valley, thanks to a small network of cable cars and ski lifts. This will give you a bird’s eye view of the entire Main Caucasus Ridge – an extremely impressive sight to behold. And, of course, you’ll be right at the foot of the Elbrus glacier.

In winter, skiers and snowboarders can shred some sweet gnar on 23 kilometers of slopes serviced by 6 ski lifts. The winter sports area is situated between the elevations of 2,350 and 3,840 meters. There are plenty of accommodation options for a comfortable stay and a good selection of cafes and restaurants to refuel your energy supplies.

2. Dzhily-su

Translated from the local language, “Dzhily-su” means “warm waters”. The Tract is located on the slopes of the heart of the Caucasus at an altitude of about 2,400 meters above sea level, where you can enjoy the breathtaking view of Mount Elbrus on a clear day. On the territory of Dzhily-su, there are many unique mineral springs that aid in healing from various diseases and strengthening the body.

“It’s an amazing sensation when you lie in a warm mineral bath and dozens of small bubbles rise around you. Also, Dzhily-su is the land of waterfalls that bear beautiful male names like Sultan, Emir and Shah. Thanks to the unusual energy, esoterics are particularly fond of this place, because there are natural sand castles, amazing stone mushrooms and the energetic mountains Sirkh and Tuzluk,” Artyem says.

The road to Dzhily-su is considered one of the most beautiful in all of Russia: It’s a serpentine-like asphalt mountain road that follows along a huge cliff, over which you will see many eagles circling. If you decide to do the trip on your own, Artyem warns that you must get hold of an off road vehicle, because many of the roads that you will need to take are dusty gravel roads. 

3. Chegem Canyon, Gorge, Waterfalls and Paragliding 

This is one of the main tourist attractions of Kabardino-Balkaria and it’s not hard to see why.

“The views that stretch along the Chegem gorge are simply amazing. The Chegem gorge is quite big. You will begin your encounter with this area with the beautiful Chegem waterfalls that cascade down the rocky slope. Right at the foot of the rocks, there is a small market where local women sell various hand woven wool products. There is a ‘ladder of happiness’ consisting of two 222 steps, leading to the source of the waterfalls at the top of the cliff. Climbing it is not at all difficult, the views are amazing and there is a cozy cafe at the top, as well as at the bottom, where you can enjoy dishes of national cuisine,” Artyem says.

In winter, the Chegem waterfalls freeze and have a certain wild beauty to them. Some locals say that, perhaps, they are even more beautiful than in the summer. Ice pillars and columns of frozen jets and streams of water, like giant twisted candles, or stalactites, hang down all the way to the river.

There is no more asphalt road beyond the waterfalls, but you can still continue along the gorge on gravel, along the turbulent Chegem River. The road is very dusty, so Artyem advises visitors to drive along it in a car with closed windows and the air conditioning on. After about 30 kilometers, you will arrive at a paragliding station.

According to Artyem, the Chegem paragliding station is famous for its powerful, ascending wind currents. Thanks to them, paragliders can soar in the sky from morning to evening. On the territory of the station, there is also a zip line and a few other adrenaline-filled activities for those looking for some thrills. 

4. El-TyuByu

If time permits, you can continue moving along the Chegem gorge and arrive at the village of El-TuByu, a place with enormous history. This mysterious ancient Balkarian village is the focal point of the history of the entire Balkaria. Ancient watchtowers, remains of Greek temples and anomalous phenomena attract both adventure seekers and connoisseurs of beauty. The main highrise, the Balkarukov Tower, is also dubbed the ‘Tower of Love’. Legend has it that Akhtugan Balkarukov built it to defend against the relatives of the beautiful Kerime, stolen by him from Dagestan.

Not far from the village, two ancient defensive Greek stairs go up a rocky wall. They rise to a height of about 30 meters and lead to a small area surrounded by walls up to two meters high and about half a meter thick. A bit above the Greek stairs are the ancient Balkar mausoleums, where local nobility were buried in the VIII-XVIII centuries. Artyem advises to go with a tour guide, because there is just so much incredible history in this village. 

5. Valley of the Narzans

The Valley of the Narzans is a balneoclimatic resort area. It is located in the foothills of the northern slope of the Skalisty Ridge of the Greater Caucasus, in the Khasaut River valley, at an altitude of 1,300 meters above sea level (near the border with Karachay-Cherkessia).

What is Narzan water? It takes six years for the water from the melting snow in the mountains to become Narzan water. It needs this time to find its way through the fissures and cracks in the underground rocks, become enriched by more than 20 minerals and salts, congregate in the underground lakes and then appear on the surface as a spring. In the local language, its name sounds like “Nart-san-e”, which means “a drink of brave warriors”.

Visitors can come with empty bottles and fill them with different kinds of mineral water. The territory of the valley also has cafes with local delicacies and plenty of souvenir stands, where the local women sell traditional knitwear, mountain honey and other arts and crafts and delicacies from the region. 

6. Shadkhurei Karst Lakes

The two lakes - Lower and Upper Shadkhuei - are still little researched. Underwater currents, turmoils and a large network of underwater canals prevent scientists from doing deeper research. The estimated depth of each lake is more than 200 meters, though there is no data yet on the actual depth.

“This is a great place to spend some time, especially during the summer months. The water temperature is kept at the same level all year round – about +15 degrees Celsius. The two lakes are located close to each other and fascinate visitors with their magical colors, luring them into their emerald water,” Artyem says.

In Artyem’s experience, only with rare exceptions, no visitor can resist the urge to plunge into the water. Even without bathing accessories, both ladies and gents make it their priority to jump into the turquoise waters. Around the lakes there are a few gazebos so you can easily stay for the whole day, have a picnic and swim in the lakes to your heart’s content.

7. Chateau Erken

A little piece of Europe in the middle of the Caucasus Mountains, Chateau Erken is a majestic pseudo castle in the Romanesque style (it was actually built in the 1990s) surrounded by about 1,000 hectares of vineyards.

“If you want to have a relaxing day, try experiencing the fairy tale that is Chateau Erken. It stands right on the water and is absolutely stunning. There is also the option to do some wine tasting inside,” Artyem says. 

8. Upper Balkaria, Blue Lake and Aushiger Thermal Springs

These three places make for an easy day trip, because of their proximity to one another. Start your journey at the Blue Lake . The deep blue waters of this stunning lake, hidden in Russia’s Caucasus mountains, are shrouded in mystery. It’s uninhabited by fish and avoided by locals, but, in recent years, it’s become a popular site for tourists.

After soaking in the lake’s beauty, continue onwards to Upper Balkaria, which is just several kilometers away along the Cherek gorge. This is a small ancient village that almost seems like it’s hiding from the outside world. Architectural monuments, defensive towers, graves and ground crypts have been preserved there. Upper Balkaria serves as an excellent example of Balkarian life and culture. You’ll learn a lot about the ancient auls (Caucasian mountain or desert settlements) and Balkarian settlements from different historical periods. 

On the left bank of the Cherek River, in the village of Aushiger, there are a few healing hot springs. The territory of the health resort includes a healing lake, an open reservoir and indoor baths.

9. Adyr-su Gorge

“This place can be reached by car, mostly by asphalt road. Then, the car drives into a special lift, together with people and climbs up along the cliff. What a sight this is! There is a border control here, so it’s a good idea to have some ID on you,” Artyem cautions.

After driving along a relatively easy dirt road, you will get to a mountain climbing base. From there, you can take part in some light trekking, 4 kilometers there and back. Adventurers also have the opportunity to make a wish in the Valley of Desires, see waterfalls, go to the glacier and the huge, magical mountain Ulu Tau, which means “Mother Mountain”. Finish up the hike at the Silver Spring.

“Here, you can always encounter wild mustangs, they always come to graze on the beautiful meadows of lush grass and drink the healing water from the spring. The spring is the source of incredible strength - locals say that whoever plunges into it three times will be healed of many diseases,” Artyem boasts.

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