hooking up my travel trailer

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RV Hookups for Beginners (5 Steps for Your First Trip)

Here's an rv hookups for beginners guide to better prepare you for your first rv trip….

• 1 Here's an RV hookups for beginners guide to better prepare you for your first RV trip…
• 2.1 Step 1: Set Your Parking Brake
• 2.2.1 PRO TIP: Always Use a Surge Protector
• 2.2.2 Electrical Hookup Adapters
• 2.3 Step 3: Water Hookup
• 2.4 Step 4: Cable Hookups
• 2.5.1 Do NOT Leave Your Black Tank Valve Open When Hooked Up
• 3 Are You an RV Newbie? Or Thinking of Joining the RV Lifestyle?

Jennifer and I have been doing this for a long time. So, sometimes I take for granted some of the beginner's tasks that are now second nature to me. RV hookups being one of those things.

I realized I should take a step back and cover some basics that RV beginners need to know. And what better way to start than how to connect full hookups on your first stay at a campground?

As a first time RVer, you're probably wondering what steps you need to take and in what order to do them. So, I'm going to share the “general rules” and my best tips the new RVers need to know.

If you buy something through our links, we may get a small commission at no extra cost to you. It helps keep our lights on so we can continue to provide helpful resources for RVers. Read our  full affiliate disclosure here.

RV Hookups for Beginners (How to Set Up Your RV)

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Not too long ago, Jennifer and I made the above video on how to set up your RV at a campground . It covers everything from choosing a site to what to hook up and in what order. It's a great visual guide on what you need to do from start to finish.

For the purpose of this article, however, I'm going to focus only on RV hookups for beginners. These steps and tips are the same whether you drive a motorhome, travel trailer, fifth wheel, or any camper. Hookups are essentially the same wherever you camp, whether it's an RV park, state parks, national parks, or any other place that offers hookups.

Step 1: Set Your Parking Brake

The most important thing to do before you even start hooking up is set your parking brake! Experienced RVers can share plenty of stories where either they or someone else forgot to do this with disastrous (& sometimes funny) results.

The last thing you want is for your RV to “settle” and shift back or forth, putting tension on your cables. Or, worse, roll off and pull out the cables and do costly damage to the campground's panels and connection points.

So, don't repeat the dumbest RV camping mistakes , and set your parking brake!

Step 2: Electric Hookup

The first thing I recommend connecting is your electric hookup. The main reason is so you can start running your air conditioning, heater, fridge, etc. on the power source from your RV campsite instead of from your RV's power supply.

There are usually 3 different plugs on a campsite's electric panel: 20 amp, 30 amp, and 50 amp. Bigger RVs usually use 50 amp and smaller RVs usually use 30 amp. You should know which kind of amp service your RV runs off of. But, if you don't, the plugs have differently shaped prongs, so you should only be able to plug into the correct one.

Once you're plugged in, you flip the breaker switch corresponding to the amp service you need. For instance, you flip the 30 amp breaker after you plug in your 30 amp plug. Then you plug in the other end to your RV, giving it a twist and rotating the collar until it's snug.

BUT BEFORE YOU PLUG IN , here is one of the best RV tips I can give you…

PRO TIP: Always Use a Surge Protector

Always use a surge protector when connecting your RV to power! A lot of people have learned the hard way that campground electrical panels are not always well-maintained or wired properly. They can cause a power surge that can badly damage your electrical system.

Some RVs have built-in surge protectors, but if yours doesn't, I can recommend 30 Amp Surge Guard or 50 Amp Surge Guard . You can get 5% off either of those surge protectors (or any TechnoRV products) with the coupon code RVLIFESTYLE5 .

Plug this portable surge protector into the campground's electric power supply, and then plug your power cable into the surge protector.

Electrical Hookup Adapters

Not every campground provides multiple amp services. Some may only have electrical hookups for 30 amps or 50 amps. That's why it's a good idea to keep an RV plug adaptor in your RV, like this Dogbone adapter for 50 amp male to 30 amp female .

Step 3: Water Hookup

The next hookup on the list is connecting your water hose to the campground's water source. Just like we recommend a surge protector with electrical hookups, we recommend you always use a water filter connected to your fresh water tank.

We use a relatively new system called  Clear20  that consists of an  inline water filter  and the  Dirtguard pre-filter  that takes out the sediment and particulates before they go through the inline filter. Or, there is a cheaper Clear2o RV water filter system that uses solid charcoal to filter.

To easily connect your water hose, I recommend getting a   Fresh water quick disconnect . It's much easier than threading hoses by hand and helps minimize water waste from annoying little leaks. The quick connect snaps right on and off. Couldn't be easier.

Connect the filter to the campsite's water spigot, then connect your fresh water hose to the water filter. Then, using the quick connect, connect the other end of the water hose to your RV.

Step 4: Cable Hookups

If your campground offers cable TV, you can now connect it to your RV. There's nothing special to know here. Simply plug in the cable cord to your RV. If you don't know where your cable port is, consult your owner's manual.

Step 4: Sewer Hookups

Lastly, it's time to do your sewer connection. Not all campsites have sewer connections, so this might not be something you do until you dump your black tank at RV dump stations .

Whether you're connecting at a campsite or the dump station, the process is basically the same. The only difference is how long you leave it connected.

Now, let me warn you, dealing with your black water tank is one of the biggest downsides of RVing. It's just gross. But it needs to be done and is well worth the stinky effort in the end.

That said, I suggest you put on rubber gloves before you connect your sewer line, or what the RV world likes to call the “stinky slinky.” Make sure your gray tank and black tank are closed , then grab your sewer hose.

Connect the end of the hose with the twist-on connector to your RV drain spout. Then run the hose the sewer drain. It's usually easiest to run your sewer hose support as you go. This support helps direct the hose (and its contents) toward the drain.

Now, attach the end of the hose with the elbow connection to the sewer drain. Screw it into position if the sewer drain also has threads (not all do.)

You might also want to review this post from the RV Proctologist !

Do NOT Leave Your Black Tank Valve Open When Hooked Up

This is a mistake that a lot of new RVers make. They understandably think that if they're connected, they might as well leave their blank tank valve open so it can continuously drain. Less poo stored in your RV, the better, right? Wrong!

If you leave your black tank valve open while you're hooked up, it will cause gross and sometimes expensive problems. The most common of which has its own inelegant RV terminology : the poop pyramid.

This happens when liquid waste easily drains out when your valve is left open but solid waste builds up in your tank. Like I said, it's gross. And stinky. And can be expensive to clean out.

So, don't leave your black tank valve open!

Get the Home Study Course today and worry about the road, not the repairs! Every time you move your RV it's like driving through a hurricane during an earthquake. Parts break and many items need to be maintained, this program will show you how you can save time and money by gaining the confidence to take on the majority of the issues you’ll come across. Don’t get caught with your RV in the shop! Learn how you can maintain and repair your RV at your own pace and at the most convenient time for you! This course is produced by the National RV Training Academy.

Are You an RV Newbie? Or Thinking of Joining the RV Lifestyle?  

THIS is the ebook to get first – before you purchase anything- to make sure you are heading in the right direction with the right RV and plans.

So, buckle up and get ready for the ride of your life. Consider this not just a guide—but an invitation to discover the joy of RV travel and the freedom of the open road.

You’ll find it all in this 64-page ebook (digital PDF – NOT a print book) The Newbies Guide to the RV Lifestyle

Published on 2022-11-25

Mike Wendland is a multiple Emmy-award-winning Journalist, Podcaster, YouTuber, and Blogger, who has traveled with his wife, Jennifer, all over North America in an RV, sharing adventures and reviewing RV, Camping, Outdoor, Travel and Tech Gear for the past 12 years. They are leading industry experts in RV living and have written 18 travel books.

8 Responses to “RV Hookups for Beginners (5 Steps for Your First Trip)”

June 09, 2023at8:48 pm , Tamarah UHLMANN said:

2005 Fleetwood Wilderness What is the apprx 2in black pipe pointing straight down underneath RV between rear axles?? Unable to determine where or if it needs to be connected

June 10, 2023at8:10 am , Team RV Lifestyle said:

This would be a great question for our RVLifestyle Facebook group. Hard to get specific for every model out there here but the FB group is a very large group of RVers and people ask questions like this all the time, and there is always someone with the same model to help – Here is a link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/roadtreking – Team RV Lifestyle

November 26, 2022at12:11 am , Chris Nintzel said:

At least two chocks in addition to the parking brake.

November 25, 2022at9:18 pm , Bryant Payne said:

For the sewer hookup, I always connect the hose to the campground outlet, then to the RV. This way, when you take off the cap on the RV end, if there is any water, or heaven forbid, a valve wasn’t closed, you only get a mess at the RV end instead of both ends if you catch part of the spill in the hose.

IMHO, surge protecters are basically a waste of money. I have a tester (about $30 on Amazon) that I use to check for proper wiring at the pedestal, and if that’s OK, the power is as good as it is to your house. The electronics in new RVs run off 12 volts, and the surge protector does nothing for them. I’ve been camping for 40 years without a surge protector and no fried RV power systems.

November 26, 2022at3:39 pm , Team RV Lifestyle said:

Thanks for sharing the sewer hookup tip and your feedback – it is appreciated! Team RV Lifestyle

November 25, 2022at10:50 am , michael smallets said:

I would suggest shutting off campsite water (or water pump) when leaving your RV/TT so that if a leak develops during your absence you won’t have water damage

November 25, 2022at11:18 am , Rick Beal said:

I always make the power connection to my coach first, and then connect to the pedestal last (after ensuring the breaker is off). This prevents arcing which can damage your power cord connectors.

November 25, 2022at7:59 pm , Team RV Lifestyle said:

Thanks for adding this tip to the discussion, Michael — Happy Trails! Team RV Lifestyle

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• How to Hook Up a Trailer - Chapter 9

Trailer Hook Up in 10 Easy Steps

Trailer Set Up and Preparations

Hooking up your trailer to your vehicle requires backing up to the trailer, connecting the coupler, securing the safety chains and plugging in the wiring harness. It requires patience and attention to detail.

In this guide, we will cover step-by-step how to hitch a trailer, as well as tips for hooking up a trailer by yourself and a  pre-towing checklist .

If you don't have the proper equipment for towing yet, here's a basic list of what you need for towing .

Hooking up a 5th wheel trailer instead? Here's a helpful guide.

Trailer Hook Up How-to Video

Starting from scratch? Start with a custom trailer hitch !

How to Hook Up a Trailer Step-by-Step

Step 1: find a friend to help.

The first step in trailer hook up is to find a friend to help you. Having someone else outside the vehicle to give guidance will make the process much easier.

Before starting, agree on a set of signals for turning directions, when to back up and when to brake. Have your helper stand on the driver's side of the trailer, even with the trailer tongue, and make sure you can see him or her clearly before backing up.

Don't have a friend to help? Here are some tips.

Step 2: Line up your vehicle

Position your vehicle so that it is in a straight line with the trailer set up. Having a straight shot when backing up to the coupler will make it much easier than trying to zigzag your way into the correct position.

Have your helper stand off to the side and give you signals of which direction to go.

Step 3: Raise the coupler

When your vehicle is about a foot away from the trailer tongue, stop and adjust the  trailer coupler  height.

Make sure the coupler will clear the trailer ball as you back the vehicle up the rest of the way. If it is raised too much, lower it until it is only a few inches higher than the ball.

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Step 4: Align the ball and coupler

Back your vehicle up the rest of the way to the coupler, going very slowly and using extreme caution. The coupler should line up perfectly with the  trailer ball .

It is important that you go slowly during this step and that you rely on your helper to tell you which way the vehicle needs to go. If things are not lining up on the first try, pull forward and try again.

Step 5: Lower the coupler onto the ball

With the vehicle in park and the emergency brake engaged, use the trailer jack to lower the coupler until it is resting on the ball. You should also make sure the coupler latch is in the upright, unlocked position before lowering.

If you find that the coupler is offset from the ball, raise the jack again and repeat the previous step.

Grease the trailer ball before hooking up to help maintain a smooth connection. With the amount of weight from the coupler constantly pushing down on the ball, a coupler can actually start to wear through if not properly greased.

Step 6: Latch the coupler

With the coupler fully seated on the ball, engage the latch and secure it with a  safety pin  or  coupler lock .

Learn more about how to select a lock .

Next, jack up the trailer tongue slightly to test the connection. If it comes off the ball, it means that the coupler was not properly seated before being latched. Unlatch it and try again. You can try shifting the tongue forward and backward to get it fully seated.

Step 7: Attach the chains in a crisscross pattern

Safety chains  are required by law. They should be attached in a crisscross pattern underneath the coupler to provide a sort of cradle. If the coupler ever becomes disconnected from the ball, the crisscrossed chains are intended to catch the coupler.

Each safety chain should be rated to meet or exceed the gross trailer weight, and they should not touch the ground when attached.

Step 8: Retract the trailer jack

When the coupler is secure, fully retract the  trailer jack . The trailer jack will need to be up and out of the way for towing.

Some jacks feature a swivel bracket that allows them to swing up parallel with the ground. Others simply have a leg that retracts into the jack post.

Step 9: Plug in the trailer wiring

Plug your vehicle wiring harness into this trailer. You can limit the amount of excess wire between the vehicle and trailer by wrapping the harness around the trailer tongue. The harness should not touch the ground, but it should have enough length to make turns without tension.

With an adequate amount of wire length, press the trailer-side plug firmly into the vehicle-side socket.

Here's helpful guide on trailer wiring installation .

Step 10: Check the trailer lights

With your helper standing in view of the trailer lights, turn them on one at a time to make sure they are working. You should check your right turn signal, left turn signal, hazards, running lights and brake lights.

Have your helper call out each lighting function as he or she sees it. If one of your lights is not working, use an  electrical tester  to make sure there is an active signal at the vehicle-to-trailer wiring connection.

Pre-Towing Checklist

When you have your coupler hooked up, your connector plugged in and your trailer ready to tow, it is always a good idea to double check your work. Take a moment to go over the following items to help ensure a safe, successful trip.

Download pre-towing checklist

TRAILER HOOKUP CHECKLIST

◊ Trailer ball matches coupler size

◊ Trailer ball properly torqued on the ball mount

◊ Ball mount secured in the receiver tube with a hitch pin or lock

◊ Trailer ball fully engaged in the coupler

◊ Coupler latch in the locked position and secured with a safety pin or lock

◊ Trailer jack fully retracted

◊ Electrical plug firmly inserted in the vehicle socket

◊ Safety chains hooked up and crisscrossed underneath the coupler

◊ Running lights, brake lights and turn signals working on the vehicle and trailer

◊ Breakaway switch cable securely attached to the vehicle

◊ Brake controller working and properly adjusted to the trailer's weight

5 Tips for Hooking Up a Trailer by Yourself

Tip #1: go slowly.

Going slowly is a good tip any time you are hitching up a trailer, whether you have someone helping or not. Take your time and don't be afraid to redo a step if needed.

Tip #2: Manually move the trailer

If your trailer is lightweight enough, push or pull it to the vehicle rather than trying to back the vehicle up to the trailer. Don't strain yourself. If the trailer is too heavy, this trick may not be an option.

Tip #3: Place a marker on your vehicle

Place a piece of tape on the center of your rear window to indicate the location of the trailer ball. If you are using a stick or flag to mark the coupler, line up the tape with the marker.

Tip 5: Open the driver door

With only a foot or two left between your vehicle and the coupler, open your driver-side door and pick a spot on the ground as a reference point. Use the point as you back up to judge the remaining distance. Remember to have your coupler raised above the trailer ball to avoid damage.

Tip #5: Use a backup camera

Use a backup camera to better see the trailer as you back up. If your vehicle is not equipped with a rear camera, use a brightly colored stick or flag attached to the coupler to better see your target. Point the stick straight up so that you can see it through the back window of your vehicle.

Ready to find a hitch? Start by looking up your vehicle!

Towing 101 Table of Contents

Looking for more.

Discover more great tips and how-tos on the  Lippert blog  -- your destination for all things RVing, towing, boating and beyond!

Travel Trailer Setup Checklist: Setting Up an RV Campsite for Beginners

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. We also earn from other affiliate websites. See our full disclaimer .

When setting up your RV travel trailer as a beginner, it’s essential to take your time and do it correctly. You don’t want to rush through the setup procedure and wind up with an RV that isn’t set up safely or prepared for an enjoyable camping experience.

We’ll cover everything you need to know – from unhitching the trailer to RV hookups, and give some helpful tips that took us a while to learn!

Below we’ll take you through a step-by-step travel trailer setup, so you are fully prepared to take your RV to a campsite. You can also download our travel trailer setup checklist below.

Arriving at Your Campsite

The first thing you want to do before pulling into a site is to inspect it. If you can choose your spot, drive around until you find one that suits you and ask yourself these three questions.

• Is it level?
• Does it have any obstructions for backing in, putting out the awning or slide outs, or using the solar panels?
• Where are the hookups?

You can usually inspect the site from the driver’s seat on a flat, pull-through, concrete pad campsite. However, getting out and surveying the area on foot is best for anything more complicated. We still follow this process at almost every site. It doesn’t pay to be in a rush.

Let’s break down what to look for when answering the above questions.

Is the Campsite Level?

Picture where your RV camper will be in your mind. Take note of sloping and where you might need leveling blocks. Look for bumps and dips to avoid. If a campsite is too crooked, it may be best to drive on or ask the campground if you can be reassigned to a different spot.

Obstructions

Trees, large rocks, camping tables, hookup pedestals, or any other obstructions make it hard to get into a site and can damage slide-outs and awnings. Trees cast shade that can help keep an RV cool but also significantly reduce the output of solar panels and dirty the RV’s roof.

Hookup Locations

Ideally, a campsite will have water, electrical, and sewer hookups on the driver’s side of the RV centrally located where you will park. The passenger’s side is left with room to set up camping gear.

In reality, there isn’t consistency with hookup layouts between campgrounds or even campsites within some campgrounds. Sometimes the hookups can be spread out so far that extra hoses or electrical extensions are needed. We have experienced campgrounds with water and electricity on the driver’s side and the sewer right in the living space on the passenger side.

Try to line up the RV’s sewer connection with the campsite’s. Sewer hoses tend to be the shortest hookups and the most cumbersome to set up. Bends in sewer hoses accumulate particulates and make them harder to keep clean.

RV Leveling and Unhitching

Once you’ve pulled or backed into your campsite, it is time to continue the RV checklist by leveling.

A device like the  Levelmate Pro  can speed up the leveling process by telling you exactly how many inches one side needs to be raised in real-time, but an  RV level  or a  level  from your toolkit can do the job with some patience.

Leveling Side to Side

If you have a towable RV such as a fifth wheel or travel trailer, it is crucial to level the rig side to side across the wheelbase before unhitching.

Looking at your leveling device, determine which side needs to be lifted, and place a lifting device such as  Lynx Levelers  or an  Anderson Leveler  under the downhill wheels.

Pulling the RV onto Levelers in 3 Steps

• Ensure your vehicle has its parking brake on before getting under the tires.
• Pull forward or reverse onto the leveler slowly. (This is where a spotter comes in handy to let you know when you are on the blocks.)
• Check your level and add or remove blocks until level.

Chock Wheels

Before unhitching, it is imperative to place wheel chocks under the RV wheels. The potential of an accident from a moving RV is not worth skipping this step that only takes a few seconds.

The  heavy-duty rubber chocks are more sturdy and grip well. Two sets are recommended on extreme slopes or wet/soft ground conditions.

Unhitch RV and Level Front to Back

Now that your RV is level side to side, it is OK to unhitch the RV from the tow vehicle. Follow these five steps to unhitch and finish leveling your travel trailer.

• Extend the tongue jack until pressure begins to be taken off the hitch ball. (Use a  tongue jack stand  or support block to protect the pad of your jack and reduce the amount of extension required.)
• Unplug the 7-pin electrical connector.
• Remove all equipped weight distribution or sway stopping devices, emergency breakaway brakes, and safety chains.
• Release the hitch ball lever and extend the tongue jack until the tow vehicle can be safely pulled forward.
• Using your leveler again, extend or retract the tongue jack until the RV is level front to back.

Put Down Stabilizers

When level, the stabilizer jacks (sometimes called scissor jacks) are extended to reduce the rocking that occurs in RVs from walking, wind, and other shaking. Stabilizers minimize strain on the frame of an RV when a slide out is moved in or out. Always put the stabilizers down before putting the slide out.

It is important to note that these are not the same as the automatic leveling systems in some motorhomes. If the stabilizer jacks are lifting the RV, you risk damaging the jacks and the RV. Stabilizing jacks support the RV by being pressed firmly to the ground, and no more.

Many RVs come with electric stabilizers that can be raised or extended with a switch. Manual jacks use a turn handle, but this  drill adapter  makes it less strenuous and speeds up the process. Jack pads are recommended to keep jacks from sinking and reduce exposure to dirt and moisture.

Connect Power

The electrical power cord is usually the first on the list to get attached. Often the slide needs to go out, or the air conditioning needs to come on. Plugging into electrical keeps those bigger loads from hitting the batteries.

Your RV will require 30 or 50 amp service, but the campground may not have a site with your particular circuit. The good news is that an adapter easily connects a  30 amp plug to a 50 amp outlet or a 50 amp to a 30 amp , allowing you to stay in any available electrical spots.

Using a Surge Protector

You also will want to protect your RV from electrical disturbances with an RV surge protector. There are several types of surge protectors. A basic model surge protector plugs into the power pedestal and is the most affordable. Other versions of surge protectors are installed permanently in the RV , so you don’t need to set up anything at camp.

The pedestal’s breaker should be off until the RV is plugged in securely. Once the breaker is on, the surge protector will take a few seconds to examine the incoming power for problems like bad wiring before allowing electricity to flow. If there is a problem, the surge protector will display an error code and block the electricity.

Connect Water

If your site has a water spicket, a hose can plug directly into the RVs city water inlet or fill up the water tank. Use a hose rated for drinking water . Green water hoses have dangerous chemicals like lead, so skip those.

High water pressure can burst an RVs plumbing. Protect your RV with a water pressure regulator . A basic one does the job but can leave you with poor water flow. An adjustable water regulator set around 45 PSI protects most RVs and keeps the shower flowing nicely.

PRO TIP:  Adding a Y-adapter at the spicket is a good tip for several reasons. One, it gives you a place to quickly wash your hands or hook up a black tank flush hose. Second, the lever is much more convenient to turn off and on when filling the water tank.

Water filtration.

Water filtration is a big topic and can be approached in many different ways. At a minimum, protect yourself with an inline one-micron water filter to reduce harmful contaminants, reduce odor and improve the taste. Add a pre-filter for two-stage filtration to reduce sediment, rust, and other particulates.

Advanced Water Filtering

It is debated if water passed through only inline filters is suitable for drinking. There are more advanced and expensive water purification systems if you plan to regularly drink from the RV water tap.

• If you have the countertop space, many people swear by the Berkey system .
• Advanced water filtration systems that can be installed in storage areas are available from companies like Clearsource .
• Acuva systems use UV light to kill bacteria and viruses and are more compact and mount under the sink.

Connect Sewer Hose

Connecting the sewer at arrival can be a convenient way to dump as needed. If your sewer connection significantly intrudes on another camping spot, try to be courteous and wait until you’re not disturbing your neighbor. A pair of waterproof gloves is recommended to use while setting up your sewer connection.

Setting Up the Sewer Hose Support

Use a sewer hose support to slope away from the RV to keep things moving and prevent build-up in the sewer hose. Lay out the support evenly, avoiding low spots and turns in the hose to make things clean when it comes time to disconnect.

Connecting the Hose

Attach the hose to the RV first, then lay the hose across the support. Remove the cap from the ground drain, quickly screw a clear elbow adapter into the threads that held the cap, and connect your hose to the adapter.

You’re ready to dump your tanks!

READ NEXT: For a complete list of travel trailer equipment to outfit your RV for travel, check out this list of travel trailer must-haves .

Finish setting up your camper trailer.

There may be items specific to your RV to complete your setup. You may have a slide that needs to come out, a satellite TV to set up, or an internet antenna.

Make your RV campsite setup feel like home with tables, chairs, lights, etc.

If you use your RV’s stove, you’ll also need to open the exhaust vent cover outside the RV.

We hope this guide and checklist will help you feel confident setting up your site. Now, sit back, relax, and enjoy your campsite, knowing it is ready to go!

Want more beginner tips on RVing and how to get started?

Check out our guide to preparing for full-time RV living, including info on choosing an RV, pros and cons of the lifestyle, RV gear lists, downsizing for RV life, and more.

Like this post? Save it on Pinterest for later.

Morgan, the founder of The Home That Roams, has been living nomadically for over five years. She began her journey traveling across the U.S. in a motorhome and cruising on a liveaboard sailing catamaran. Currently, she lives full-time in a travel trailer, sharing resources on RV living and boat life to help others downsize their lives and thrive in an alternative lifestyle.

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Home » Guides » How To Set Up A Travel Trailer

How To Set Up A Travel Trailer

• Last Updated: Jun 3, 2024

Are you thinking about hitting the open road in a travel trailer? If so, you’re in for a fun and rewarding experience! Travel trailers are a great way to see America, and they provide all of the comforts of home. But before you can start enjoying your travels, you need to set up your trailer properly.

In this blog post, we will walk you through the process of how to set up a travel trailer. By following our simple steps, you’ll be ready to hit the road in no time!

What Is A Travel Trailer And What Are The Benefits Of Owning One:

It is a type of RV that is towed behind a car or truck . It is typically much smaller than a motorhome and offers a more flexible and budget-friendly option for experiencing the joys of camping and road tripping . While travel trailers come in many different shapes and sizes, they all offer several advantages over traditional RVs. For one, travel trailers are typically much easier to maneuver and park than larger RVs. Additionally, they can be backed into tight spaces and parked without the need for a spacious RV lot.

Travel trailers also tend to be more affordable than motorhomes, making them a great option for budget-minded campers and road trippers. Lastly, travel trailers offer more flexibility when it comes to where you can camp; unlike motorhomes, which must be parked at an RV park or campground with hookups, travel trailers can be towed to nearly any location. Whether you’re looking to save money or have more freedom on your camping trips, owning a travel trailer may be the right choice for you.

Tips For Setting Up A Travel Trailer For the First Time:

If you are new to traveling in a travel trailer, there are a few things you should know before hitting the road. Here are a few tips to help you get started:

Choose Your Spot:

If you want to make sure you have a level spot to set up your trailer. You may also want to make sure that the surrounding area is clear of any large rocks or roots that could damage your trailer. If possible, find a spot that is already graveled or paved. This will make the setup and take it down much easier.

Jacks And Leveling Blocks:

Once you have found your spot, it’s time to get your jacks and leveling blocks out. You will want to place the leveling blocks under the trailer’s tires. This will help keep your trailer level and prevent it from shifting during setup. Once the leveling blocks are in place, you can begin to jack up the trailer. If you have a large trailer, you may need to use multiple jacks.

Hook Up Utilities:

Now that your trailer is level, it’s time to hook up the utilities. If you are hooked up to city water, simply connect your house to the water hookup on your trailer. If you are using a holding tank, fill the tank with water before connecting it to the trailer. Next, connect your power cord to the power hookup on your trailer. If you are using an RV generator, make sure it is full of fuel before starting it up.

Set Up Awnings and Slide-Outs:

Most RVs come equipped with awnings and slide-outs. These can be great features, but they also add a lot of extra work when setting up your RV. To set up your awnings, simply extend them out until they are fully open. For setting your slide-outs, first extend them out fully, then use a manual crank to lower them down into place.

Hook Up TV and Internet:

If you plan on spending any type of significant amount of time on your RV, you will probably want to hook up a TV and Internet connection. To do this, simply connect an HDMI cable from your TV to the HDMI port on your RV’s control panel. If you don’t have an HDMI port, you can use an adapter to connect to another type of cable. For the internet, there are a couple of different options available. You can either use a mobile hotspot or connect directly to the campground’s WiFi network (if available).

Stock The Fridge :

One of the last things you’ll want to do before heading out on your trip is stock the fridge with food and drinks. This way, you’ll have everything you need once you arrive at your destination.

Load The Beds :

Another thing you’ll want to do before hitting the road is to load the beds with sheets, pillows, and blankets. This way, you’ll be able to relax as soon as you arrive at your campsite.

Check All The Lights:

Before driving off, take a walk around your RV and make sure all the lights are working properly. This includes both the interior and exterior lights.

Test The Brakes :

Before pulling out of your driveway, test the brakes by depressing the pedal firmly several times. This will ensure that they are working properly and help prevent any accidents while on the road.

Enjoy The Ride :

Now that everything is all set, it’s time to sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride! These tips should help make setting up your RV for the first time a breeze. So get out there and explore all that nature has to offer!

Some Essential Steps Before Driving Off:

Check all the systems in your travel trailer before setting off on your trip. This includes plumbing, electrical, and propane systems. Make sure everything is in working order and that you understand how to operate each system.

Practice setting up and breaking down your travel trailer in your driveway. This will help you get familiar with the process and give you a chance to work out any kinks. When you do set up camp, take your time and be patient. Read all the instructions carefully and double-check all your connections before turning on any switches or opening any valves.

By following these simple tips, you can ensure that your first experience traveling in a travel trailer is a positive one.

How To Store And Maintain Your Travel Trailer:

If you’re planning to take your travel trailer on the road, you’ll need to know how to properly store and maintain it. Make sure to clean the trailer before storing it. This will help prevent mold and mildew from developing. If possible, store the trailer in a covered area. This will protect it from the elements and keep it clean.

Level the trailer before storing it. This will help prevent structural damage and tire wear. Finally, check the trailer’s tires and brakes before each trip. By following these simple tips, you can ensure that your travel trailer is safe and ready for adventure.

Wrapping Up:

So, there you have it! Everything you need to know to set up your travel trailer. By following these simple steps, you’ll be on your way to enjoying the great outdoors in no time. Now that you are an expert on setting up a travel trailer, what are you waiting for? Get out there and explore!

Other Related Posts:

• How Tall is a Travel Trailer? (And Why You Need to Know)
• Best Bike Rack For Travel Trailer
• What Size Generator For A Travel Trailer

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How To Set Up At An RV Park Or Campground For Dummies

Everything You Need To Know About RV Parks And Campgrounds

Driving into an RV park or campground for the first time can be nerve racking.

You don’t want to accidentally break any rules and you also want to get everything hooked up and plugged in as quickly as possible so you can get to the fun part of camping and RVing.

Related Product: See how level your RV is using an App on your phone with the LevelMatePro Wireless RV Leveling System (click to view on Amazon)

Because we mostly dry camp/boondock, our first RV park visit had its problems. We didn’t know that a lot of RV parks really squeeze the trailers in.

We were supposed to back in to a campsite that was right next to an RV with slide outs that stuck out into our RV spot. We didn’t realize this until it was time to open our slide out. Then we saw there wasn’t enough room, so we had to hook up, and move to make space.

There were lots of other things we wish we had known as well.

In this article, I’m going to take you through everything you should do when you get to an RV park or campground.

Hopefully, your first campground or RV park experience will be a good one and you will see how fun RV camping is.

See Also:  7 Important RV Park & Campground Tips For First Timers

There are also a few RV safety gadgets you should have and red flags you should look for when plugging your RV into any kind of outlet.

I’ll go through those red flags and products, as well as list some of the RV gear you must have to successfully set up your RV, travel trailer, truck camper, or 5th-wheel at an RV park or campground with full hookups.

Table of Contents show Everything You Need To Know About RV Parks And Campgrounds How To Set Up Your RV At An RV Park Or Campground Step 1 – Park Your RV Right Step 2 – Level & Chock Your RV Step 3 – Unhook Your Trailer Step 4 – Hook Up Your RV’s Electrical Step 5 – Stabilize Step 6 – Bring Out The Slides Step 7 – Hook Up Your City Water Step 8 – Hook Up Your Sewer Step 9 – Lock It Up Frequently Asked Questions About Setting Up RVs & Hookups How long does it take to set up an RV? Do RV parks allow older RVs? How do I hook up water to my RV? How long does it take to fill up an RV fresh water tank? Why does my RV have low water pressure? How much does it cost to stay in an RV park? Can I leave my grey or black tank open when staying at an RV park? Why are RV parks so expensive? What do full hookups mean at an RV park or campground? What do partial hookups mean at an RV park or campground? What do I need to connect my RV to cable TV at an RV park?

How To Set Up Your RV At An RV Park Or Campground

Step 1 – park your rv right.

The first thing you are going to have to do after checking in and getting your site number is to figure out how to get to your site and whether it’s a back-in or a pull-through.

Pull-through campsites are the ones that you can drive through. They will either look like a round parking area or be a straight line like an RV parking spot in a parking lot.

Whether it’s a back-in or a pull-through, there are some things you need to think about before you get the RV into the spot.

Space is the first issue. Some RV park owners will sardine people in to get as many RVs in an area as possible. It’s just a part of RV park life and something you will have to get used to if you prefer to camp in RV parks.

The main issue is going to be slide outs. If your camper has some, it’s a good idea to measure how far each one sticks out so you know how wide your RV will be once it’s set up.

See Also:  What Do I Need To Use Hookups At An RV Park Or Campground?

For instance, our travel trailer has one large slide that sticks out 2 feet on the driver’s side.

The first RV park we stayed at had a back-in site, and the RVs were so packed in that we actually had to use a tape measure to make sure we left enough space for our slide to come out.

Even after getting as far over to one side as possible, there were still only 6 inches between our slide and the RV next to us.

This was an extreme case in a tiny RV park in the center of a city, but it’s more common than you think and something you should look out for.

You also need to know where the sewer, electrical outlets, and water connections are.

Sometimes you have to park 10-15 feet from the sewer and will need to have the proper RV sewer hoses and supports to reach it.

Make sure your RV is in a place where everything is within the reach of your RV electrical cable, sewer hose, and freshwater hose.

See Also:  Best RV Sewer Hose Kits Reviewed & Rated

Step 2 – Level & Chock Your RV

I know it seems like you shouldn’t have to level your RV in an RV park or campground you spent lots of money to stay in, but it’s rare to find an RV park with perfectly level sites. Especially ones that are on hills.

We stayed at a KOA one year that had a 4 inch difference from the passenger to the driver’s side of our trailer because the sites were on a hill.

Never assume your RV will be level, no matter how nice the RV park or campground is. Letting your trailer sit unlevel can damage your slide out and cause your RV refrigerator to clog and stop cooling.

Also, it’s just plain uncomfortable and annoying when your home away from home is slanted.

See Also:  Best RV Wheel Chocks (Plastic, Rubber, Metal, X-Chock)

To make sure you are level, you can also use a good old fashioned bubble level (click to view on Amazon) or a fancy wireless RV leveling system like the LogicBlue LevelMatePro (click to view on Amazon) .

The LogicBlue is super easy to install in your RV. It uses a smartphone app to tell you how to level your trailer is so you know how much and which side of your RV needs to be raised.

To level your trailer or RV, you can use RV leveling blocks, planks of wood, or easy to use rounded ones like ours. To see some of the best RV leveling gear check out this post here .

For our travel trailer, we use Andersen Camper Levelers (click to view on Amazon) which includes rounded leveling blocks. They are very easy to use and perfect if you need to level your trailer often.

We use them 90% of the time since level campsites on BLM land are hard to find. We also use them when dumping our travel trailer at RV dump stations.

If you make sure the side opposite to the sewer outlet is elevated, your RV holding tanks will drain much faster and better.

To stop our trailer from rolling away, we use 4 MaxxHaul Solid Rubber Heavy Duty Wheel Chocks (click to view on Amazon) .

You want to make sure you put the chocks on your RV before unhitching it because it might roll backward when you lift it with the front tongue jack.

See Also: Best Electric Trailer Jacks Reviewed (Tongue & A-Frame)

Step 3 – Unhook Your Trailer

If you have a motorhome or camper van, this step doesn’t apply to you, but if you have a travel trailer or 5th-wheel now is a good time to unhook it.

Make sure you don’t forget to put your rubber chocks behind your wheels. It can damage your jacks if you have your trailer rolling away while lifting it off your tow vehicle.

After unhitching our travel trailer and leveling it from front to back, we use X-Chock Wheel Stabilizers (click to view on Amazon) .

X-chocks add an extra level of stabilization to your RV or trailer and keep from bouncing front to back.

This will protect your trailer’s tongue jack and help your stabilizer jacks when you are walking around in the RV.

They are also really great at keeping your trailer from moving when the wind is hitting the front or back of your RV.

X-Chocks are also more secure if your travel trailer or 5th-wheel is up on leveling blocks.

When raised, it’s harder for regular chocks to do the job right. X-Chocks make it so you know your RV isn’t going anywhere.

Related:  Best RV Stabilizers For RV, 5th-Wheel & Travel Trailer

Some people put their X-chocks on before lifting and unhitching their trailer, but we like to do it after. There’s less pressure on the tires and it just seems like the better way to go.

Step 4 – Hook Up Your RV’s Electrical

Plug in your RV or travel trailer before you’ve taken the slide-outs or put down the stabilizer jacks. Being hooked up to electrical will make things go much faster and you won’t put any unnecessary strain on the RV batteries.

Anytime you plug your RV into a power source, use a surge protector or even an RV autoformer ( click to read more about RV autoformers here ).

Power surges or unsafe electrical conditions are very common in any RV park, campground, or even your home.

Using a surge protector or RV autoformer with a built-in surge guard will protect the sensitive and expensive appliances in your RV.

There are many stories of people getting the wiring in their RV or trailer fried by faulty electrical hookups and power surges.

A surge protector will keep you and your RV safe and end up saving you money in the long run.

Related:  Best RV Surge Protector & EMS For 30 Amp & 50 Amp

You also need to know what amperage your RV or travel trailer is. Normally large RVs and 5th-wheels use 50 amp power.

Travel trailers and small campers use 30 amp power, and small single axel trailers use 20 amp power.

Most of the time, if the RV park advertises that their sites have 50 amp hookups, they will also have 30 amp and 20 amp on the same power pedestal as well.

If the pedestal only has a 50 amp outlet (this is uncommon), you can use an adaptor to plug a 30 amp and even 20 amp trailer into the 50 amp outlet.

On that same note, if you have a 50 amp RV and you could only find a campsite with a 30 amp outlet (this can be a common occurrence) you can plug your 50 amp plug into a 30 amp outlet using an adaptor.

This will change how the electrical in your RV will work.

See Also: The Surprising Differences Between 30A & 50A RVs

For instance, you probably won’t be able to use your AC and your microwave at the same time and if you have two RV AC units, you cannot run them both at the same time.

You are getting less than half of the power you are used to, so make sure you don’t run too many appliances at the same time and flip the breaker.

Power pedestals are where the outlets for your RV will be located. There will always be breakers above the outlets. Make sure all the breakers are off before you plug in the surge guard or RV.

Once you’ve plugged everything in, you can flip on the breaker. It’s also recommended to turn off the breaker before unplugging your RV as well. This will protect you from any electrical shocks.

If you have a surge guard, it will normally take a few seconds before flipping on, so don’t worry if your RV doesn’t get power right away.

Step 5 – Stabilize

If you want to hook up the water and sewer before putting the stabilizers down and the slides out you can, but normally if you are camping with your family, you want to get the RV ready for them first.

We normally get the stabilizers down and the slides out as fast as possible so our pets don’t have to sit in the truck while we get everything set up.

See Also: The Secret To An Unshakable RV: Top RV Stabilizers Reviewed

Your trailer should be level because that’s one of the first things you do, and you hopefully have measured to make sure there will be room for your slide-outs. You can now put down your stabilizer jacks.

Note: never put out the slides before putting down your stabilizer jacks.

If you are camping on a paved campsite, make sure you use leveling blocks like these (click to view on Amazon) under the feet of your stabilizers.

Stabilizer feet can push into the asphalt and damage it, especially if it’s hot out.

Putting a block under them to protect the pavement is a courtesy and the polite thing to do. You should also do this if you are camping in a parking lot for the night.

Businesses might not be so friendly to campers if they are putting holes in their parking lots. You don’t want to ruin it for the next guy who comes along and wants to camp.

Step 6 – Bring Out The Slides

Now that your power is all hooked up, you can bring out the slides. I always hook up power before because it takes some of the stress off of the batteries and the slide pops out much faster when hooked up to power.

When bringing out the slides, always double-check if you are close to any obstacle, like a tree, a pole, or even another RV.

The last thing you want is to be crashing your slide into something and damaging it.

See Also:  Best Portable Propane Tabletop Grills & BBQs For Camping

As a little RV tip, a good thing to do, especially if you have multiple slides, is to send them out halfway and then check the sides of each slide to make sure nothing has fallen in the way during your journey.

I’ve seen molding torn off because a cabinet door opened and got stuck between the slide and the wall. It also tore the cabinet door off and was a bad day for that RVer.

Step 7 – Hook Up Your City Water

Running water is one of my favorite things about staying in RV parks. I can finally take a shower for longer than 2 minutes and it makes doing the dishes much easier.

Much like your electrical, you need products to protect your RV plumbing from high water pressure that is very common in RV parks and campgrounds.

RV water pressure regulators are easy to find and you can get a simple regulator like the Camco Inline Water Pressure Regulator (click to view on Amazon) or an advanced Renator Water Pressure Regulator Valve with Pressure Gauge (click to view on Amazon) .

See Also: What Should My RV Water Pressure Regulator Be Set At?

No matter what kind of water regulator you get, you should always have one handy, just in case.

Also, make sure you attach the water regulator directly to the water source. It should be before the filter and water hose because it will take a lot of pressure off of those two things and make them last longer.

If the place you’re staying at already has low water pressure, you do not need to use a regulator.

We highly recommend water filters for RVs. They keep you healthy and protect the plumbing and water pump.

It’s especially important if you drink the water. Check out this post here to see the water filter we use as well as other great options for RVers.

Hooking water up to an RV differs from filling a freshwater tank.

Every RV has two connection points. One where you fill the fresh water tank and one where you connect the hose directly into your RV plumbing system.

It’s normally labeled as “city water connection” and will have a screw-on connector for a hose and not an open hole like the freshwater tank fill up point.

On our travel trailer, the city water connection is on the back, but on other RVs, it could be anywhere. To find it quickly, look for the outdoor shower or the area where your black tank flush is.

Make sure you know where your RV city water connection is located so you know how long your freshwater hose needs to be to hook it up to water.

For freshwater hoses, I recommend having either two 25 foot ones or a long 50 foot one paired with a short 10 foot one. Never use your freshwater hoses for rinsing out the RV black tank.

See Also:  Best RV Water Hose For Drinking Water

When connected to city water, you do not need to use the RV water pump. The pressure from the water source is enough to push water through all the pipes.

Step 8 – Hook Up Your Sewer

I recommend that every RVer have two 10 foot sewer hoses (click to go to review) , sewer hose support (click to go to review) , and a 4-in-1 RV sewer elbow (click to view on Amazon) .

These products are all things you will need to connect your RV black and grey holding tanks to the sewer and also comply with RV park and most campground rules.

The sewer hose support may seem unnecessary, but many places have the sewer hole raised on a cement block. You’ll need the support to keep your sewer hose above the hole so it will drain right.

Many parks require all sewer hoses to be off the ground. It’s a good idea to have an RV sewer hose support just in case.

Unlike RV dumps, sewer connections in RV parks and campgrounds aren’t just large holes in the ground.

Most of the time, you need a 4-in-1 elbow because an open RV sewer hose won’t fit.

The elbow can screw onto different sizes of sewer openings for an air tight fit that will stop odors. It allows you to leave your sewer hose out and hooked up without stinking up the place.

Hooking up the sewer is one of the last things you should do because it’s a messy process. You don’t want to be handling your freshwater hoses and filters with hands that were just touching sewer stuff.

Related:  What To Do When An RV Waste Tank (Black/Grey) Won’t Drain

As a little RV tip: When you dump your RV holding tanks, always dump the black tank first and then the grey tank.

The cleaner grey water will rinse the black waste water out of the sewer hose and make things a little cleaner and help keep your sewer hose from smelling.

Related:  How To Maintain RV Holding Tanks To Prevent Clogs & Odors

Step 9 – Lock It Up

While RV and camping folks are generally friendly people, it’s still common for things to go missing in RV parks, campgrounds, and even secluded BLM sites.

RV gear like surge protectors are spendy products. It’s recommended to always keep them locked up no matter where you are staying.

Normally we lock our surge guard to either the pedestal or the RV, just in case.

We also keep our bikes locked.

The spots in RV parks that are designated for people who are only staying for a few nights are usually near the entrance and main roads, and you never know who is coming and going.

It may seem like overkill, and locking your valuables is totally your decision, but most RVers recommended it.

Frequently Asked Questions About Setting Up RVs & Hookups

How long does it take to set up an rv.

It really depends on your experience with setting up an RV and the number of people helping who know what they are doing.

My husband and I can set up at an RV park with full hookups and a pull-through site in 20 minutes, and that includes leveling.

If it’s a campsite that requires backing into a tight spot, it may take a little longer.

Related:  7 Important RV Park & Campground Tips For First Timers

For your first time setting up at an RV park, expect things to take much longer than you think.

Give yourself at least an hour so you don’t feel you are running against a clock. Being calm is key to not making any mistakes and causing damage to your RV.

Do RV parks allow older RVs?

It 100% depends on the RV park, but normally a fancy RV park will have a rule that says no RVs or trailers that are older than 10 years allowed.

If your trailer looks like it’s in good shape and isn’t the “eyesore” or safety hazard these campgrounds and RV parks are trying to avoid, then I doubt they will give you any trouble.

Most RV parks don’t have the 10 year rule and it’s normally just the high-end RV resorts that have those restrictions.

The main problem people have with getting into RV parks is the 55+ ones.

There are more out there than you think and we’ve been surprised to find certain RV parks we had planned to stay at were actually 55+.

These RV parks have very strict rules and probably won’t let you stay even for a night if at least one of you isn’t at least 55 years old.

How do I hook up water to my RV?

The city water hookup isn’t in the same place as the freshwater fill up.

It has a connection that will twist onto the end of a hose so it fits securely.

To read more about how to connect your RV to freshwater, scroll up and read Step 7  of this article.

How long does it take to fill up an RV fresh water tank?

RV fresh water tanks can range anywhere from 25 gallons to 100 gallons depending on the size of RV, trailer, or truck camper.

The standard size is normally around 35-45 gallons.

Our travel trailer has a 45 gallon fresh water tank. It takes around 15 minutes with the water turned at a steady stream.

You don’t want to fill up your RV fresh water tank with high pressured water because it fills the tank up with air faster than the vents have time to work.

When this happens, the tank will spit out water and it may look like it’s full when it’s not.

Why does my RV have low water pressure?

If you are having trouble with low water pressure in your RV when connected to city water at a campground or RV park, the first thing you should check is the water pressure coming out at the tap or your water pressure regulator.

Some RV parks already have fairly low water pressure and if you are using a water regulator on low-pressure water, it might make the water pressure too low to move through your RV correctly.

Another culprit could be your water filter. Over time, they get clogged and need to be changed.

Make sure you read your filter instructions for average filter life and how often it should be changed.

It could also mean that you have a leak somewhere. If your RV or trailer allows, check the plumbing inside, starting with where the city water connection is.

Follow it as much as you can, check for any water dripping or spraying.

Also, when you are connected to city water, you don’t need to have your RV water pump on. This could be the reason for lower than normal water pressure.

If the water pressure in an RV park is too low for whatever reason, you can always fill up your RV fresh water tank and just use that.

How much does it cost to stay in an RV park?

RV park prices can range anywhere from $15 a night to $100 a night or even more depending on the amenities, location, and demand.

We normally stay in more moderate RV parks that never cost more than $25-$50 a night.

We also use our Passport America Membership, which gives us up to 50% off in participating RV parks.

Click here to read more about Passport America and how to become a member.

If you are planning on staying for a week or a month, you can normally get a better price the longer you stay.

Can I leave my grey or black tank open when staying at an RV park?

You should never leave your black tank open, even when hooked up to a sewer.

The reason for this is the airflow could cause the organic waste in your black tank to dry and harden, which will inevitably cause nasty clogs.

Also, RV black tanks are not made to be used that way.

They need to have lots of water in them to break down the toilet paper and solid waste before being dumped into a sewer.

For more information on black tank clogs, how to prevent them, and what to do if you get one click here .

As for the grey tank, it’s not as important to keep that one closed when hooked up to a sewer at an RV park or campground.

The main reason everyone will keep the grey tank closed when hooked up is to stop smells from the sewer from drifting through the open grey tank and into the RV through the drains.

We made this mistake on our first RV Park visit and it’s not one we will make again. Coming back to the entire RV Parks sewer smells in your RV is not a great experience.

If you are experiencing problems with a smelly black or grey tank, check out this article here for information on how to prevent RV holding tank odor.

Why are RV parks so expensive?

Some RV parks and resorts are very expensive and it all has to do with things like location, demand, and what kinds of amenities the park or resort is offering.

Some RV resorts will have swimming pools, restaurants, showers, game rooms, laundry, Wi-Fi, and much more.

The cheapest RV parks will only have the basic hookups and you may not get your own sewer connection, which means you will have to dump your trailer at the dump station on your way out.

You can also stay for fairly cheap in campsites that offer no hookups and are basically just dry camping in an RV park.

What do full hookups mean at an RV park or campground?

If you’ve been looking up campgrounds or RV parks, you’ve probably seen the term “full hookups” a few times.

Full hookups mean you will have electricity, a sewer hookup, water, and a lot of times cable tv.

What do partial hookups mean at an RV park or campground?

Many campgrounds and some RV parks will also have what’s called “partial hookups.” This means you will have electricity and water but no sewer.

Usually, there will be an RV dump station you can use on your way out after your stay.

When staying in a campground with partial hookups for a long time, it’s a good idea to get a portable black/grey tank (click to see best options) so you don’t have to move your RV or trailer to dump it.

What do I need to connect my RV to cable TV at an RV park?

Many RV and travel trailers come pre-wired for a cable TV connection.

Lots of RV parks will have cable tv available. All you need is the correct coaxial cable (click to view on Amazon) to connect it to your trailer.

Have any more questions about setting up and hooking up an RV at an RV Park or campground? Leave a comment below.

3 thoughts on “How To Set Up At An RV Park Or Campground For Dummies”

I loved that you said that there are RV resorts that have restaurants, showers wifi, and swimming pools. This is a good tip for my brother who is planning an RV trip with his kids. He said that he does not want them to get bored while on a trip, o so he wants wifi connection to be available in an RV park.

Thanks! Tell your brother KOA campgrounds/RV parks are great for kids as well since they often have game rooms and things for kids to do.

What caught my attention is when you said that you can find campsites that offer no hookups, and they are fairly cheap. This must be shared with my brother who is planning to go on an RV trip with his wife and 5-year-old son next week. He wanted to find a campground that can offer him the best possible deal, so I will share your tips with him.

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How to Install RV Hookups on My Home Property

• March 21, 2022

Table of Contents

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So you want to install RV hookups at home, do you? Well, it makes sense! There are many benefits to full-time RV hookups on your property.

• Offer your RV as a hospitable guest house
• Allow your college kid some personal space to mature
• Rent out your RV on AirBnB, HipCamp, etc.
• Build out a quiet home office
• Live in an RV while you build a house
• Put some space between you and the mother-in-law
• Harbor fugitives of the law in exchange for laundered cash

This post is an overview of how to install RV hookups at home. You’ll get a sense of cost, scope and time. If you plan to do all the work yourself, you’ll probably need some additional information, such as a step-by-step guide to working with UF-B cable or CPVC pipe.

What Are Included in RV Hookups?

Full hookups include:

• Sewer drain
• 30A/50A electric power
• Potable, pressurized freshwater

These are the same hookups you would find at any developed RV campground. For more information on RV hookups explained, visit this post.

You can also install just partial hookups: usually water+electric. In this case, you would dump waste into a portable blue boy, use a composting toilet or porta-potty, or drive to a dump station.

Many homeowners also choose to include other features as part of their RV hookups on their property:

• Concrete or gravel parking pad
• RV carport or lean-to
• Picnic tables/outdoor living spaces

A parking pad is an extremely popular addition to RV hookups. After a season of frost heave and mud cycles, your RV tires can sink six inches deep into virgin ground! A tamped gravel parking space or poured concrete pad keeps your tires out of the ground, prevents plants from growing around your RV, and gives you a clean working space underneath the rig.

How Much Does It Cost to Install RV Hookups On My Property?

• If you do all the work yourself, with a little luck on your side, you can set up full RV hookups for about $500.
• If you pay a professional to install water, sewer, and electric hookups, you could be shelling out $5,000!

Electric, water, and sewer hookups don’t require more than a few hundred dollars in materials. Most of the cost is in machinery and operation. A shovel is cheap, but you’ll almost certainly need to at least rent a trencher.

One of the biggest cost factors is the distance from your house to your RV pad. Pipe and wire are priced by the foot – and every foot takes longer to trench and backfill. Remote or awkward locations can easily double the cost of RV hookup installation.

Of the three required hookups – water, electric, and sewer – sewer is the big gamble. Setting up a sewer hookup could be virtually free if you have an accessible clean-out (that’s legal to use). On the other hand, if you need to install an RV-specific septic system or reserve tank, that’s at least several grand.

Tools – Cost

All hookups require special tools to install. You’ll need a wide assortment of hand tools and power tools: pipe cutters, linesman’s pliers, multimeter, etc. If you’ve worked with residential electricity and DWV plumbing before, you should already own most of these tools.

As part of building a parking pad or RV carport, you may need to trim branches and cut down trees. This may require a ladder, hedge trimmer, and other landscaping tools.

If you don’t own tools, you can A) purchase them or B) rent them. Most home improvement stores have loan-a-tool programs, especially for larger power tools.

If you’re setting up an RV hookup in your backyard, you’ll probably need to rent a trencher. Don’t cheap out with a shovel. You can accomplish a digging job in 1/100th of the time with a trencher! You can rent these tools for a half-day or more.

Labor – Cost

Installing permanent RV hookups means earthwork: digging, trenching, backfilling, etc. You’ll either need to rent heavy machinery (like a backhoe) or plunge ahead with a shovel (not recommended!).

If you aren’t pouring a parking pad, you can probably do without the heavy machinery. But laying water lines, wires and conduit means trenching, at a minimum.

Even if you plan to hire a plumber and electrician to do the work, you can save yourself some money by digging the trenches yourself. Just ask your contractor for directions.

Call a utility company before you dig! You don’t want to hit a water main or other utility. Also, make sure you’re not in danger of hitting your lawn sprinkler system, sewer cleanout, or other buried items.

Do You Need a Permit to Install RV Hookups?

Rules for RV hookups, parking and storage vary by municipality and neighborhood.

Simply plugging in your RV with an extension cord and connecting a drinking water hose to an outdoor spigot (the poor man’s RV hookup) usually doesn’t require any type of permit or permission.

In most areas, repairing or replacing existing plumbing and wiring equipment does not require a permit. However, adding equipment does! Which means you’ll probably need a building permit. These cost anywhere from $0-$500 ($100 is pretty common) and can take weeks or months to finish the application process.

This isn’t a question the Internet can answer for you. You need to contact your city officials and ask ahead of time.

Fair warning: Most zoning codes prohibit dwelling in an RV full-time or even using an RV as a guest house! Avoid using such language on any building permit applications.

The Poor Man’s Hookups

If you’re after the absolute cheapest way to hook up an RV in your backyard (without digging or trenching), you can try out the poor man’s RV hookups.

• Route an extension cord from a GFI-protected 20-amp exterior outlet to your power inlet. Use 20A-to-30A/50A (depending on your RV) adapter to connect to power.
• Run a freshwater hose (or garden hose, if you don’t mind drinking little bits of cancer) from your house spigot to your city water inlet. Or just occasionally fill up your onboard freshwater tank!
• Dump your wastewater into a portable blue boy tank. When the blue boy is full, throw it in the bed of the pickup truck (carefully!) and dump it at the nearest dump station.

Obviously, the poor man’s hookups have a lot of problems.

• Your water will freeze in cold weather.
• 20A power often isn’t enough to turn on air conditioners.
• Most plastic hoses will leach nasty chemicals into your freshwater when they sit in the hot sun.
• You can’t run an air conditioner and a microwave at the same time.
• Dumping a portable blue boy tank is time-consuming and gross.

The poor man’s hookups will work in a pinch. If you need temporary accommodations for a traveling friend, for instance, these quick n’ dirty hookups will get you by.

Truth is, if you don’t need to run your air conditioners, you can probably get away with a heavy-duty extension cord to a 20A household outlet.

A word on the extension cord: Don’t plug two or three regular extension cords together! You want to use the shortest possible extension cord with the largest available wire size. This will minimize voltage drop. Too much voltage drop, and you’ll cause a “brownout,” which can damage electrical components in your RV. We recommend a 12-gauge 50-ft cord or a 10-gauge 100-ft cord.

1. Water Hookup

For a permanent RV hookup, you’ll need to bury a water line. This line needs to be 12” below the frost depth to keep from freezing. In most the United States, that’s between 2-6 feet!

When connecting to a water source, you can technically connect at almost any point besides between the curb/meter and your main shut-off. Otherwise, your home’s main shut-off valve won’t be able to turn off the water!

Depending on your home design, your cold water system may be a conventional truck n’ branch or a modern homerun system. PEX is the standard distributing tubing for modern construction, but copper was the standard for many years. If possible, you should install a shut-off valve where you connect to the water supply.

You can connect to an underground water line or an exposed water line in your basement, next to a sink, behind a washer, etc. Be aware, though, that splicing into an existing appliance supply branch can lower the water pressure at that appliance. You can use PEX or CPVC pipe for laying the underground pipe.

Where your pipe comes up to the post, it should be UV-protected (if PEX) and strapped to the post. Wrap the pipe in outdoor pipe insulation and heat tape so it doesn’t freeze during the winter. Finish it off with a cold water hose bib.

2. Electrical Hookup

The two big cost factors when installing an RV electrical hookup are:

• 30A vs. 50A power service
• Location of the power outlet

We really recommend installing a 50A power pedestal if possible. There’s no harm in going bigger, and you can’t easily upsize in the future.

If you mount your RV power outlet to the exterior of your house or garage, you can save yourself a lot of time of money. Otherwise, you’ll need to install a power pole (with concrete footing) and bury the line.

As you can imagine, there’s a lot that goes into properly wiring a power pedestal. We can’t get into everything here. Here are some of the most important notes:

• Use UF-B wire rated for direct burial, or else fish the wire through conduit.
• For 50A, use UF-B 4-conductor 6A wire. For 30A, use at UF-B 3-conductor 10GA wire. For longer distances, a larger gauge wire may be required to prevent voltage drop.
• Use a weatherproof box mounted on a pressure-treated 4×4 post. Dig a post hole 30 inches deep and 8 inches wide; set the post in a Quickcrete concrete footing. If you don’t use concrete, at least mix dirt with crushed rock to give it some stability.
• If you’re installing a 30A outlet, make sure you use a NEMA TT-30 receptacle, which is wired for 120V! These are commonly confused with 240V 30A receptacles used for dryer outlets – not the same thing!
• Purchase a power pedestal with a circuit breaker subpanel. Don’t just install a temporary outlet box; you need to be able to shut off power at the pedestal for safety reasons.
• Always use an EMS surge protector when plugging in!

3. Sewer Hookup

Don’t Dump On the Ground!

Don’t listen to the nonsense that it’s safe and OK to let your gray water run on the ground! Gray water stinks. It can stink just as bad as black water. You don’t want that in your yard.

Plus, many of the shampoos and soaps we use when cleaning and bathing can harm plants, contaminate groundwater, and otherwise screw up the ecosystem.

If you’re only using your backyard RV hookups occasionally, then maybe you can get away with dumping your gray water straight on the ground. For regular, seasonal or full-time use, though, you’ll need to connect to a sewer system.

Connect to a Sewer Clean Out

If your home is connected to a municipal sewer system, you most likely have a 4” (very rarely 3”) sewer cleanout port in front of your house. This cleanout is just a vertical pipe that tees into the main sewer drain. If your local code allows, you can just connect your RV sewer hose directly to the sewer cleanout!

If your home is connected to a septic system, you can do something similar. This time, the sewer cleanout is likely in your backyard. Again, confirm with local officials whether temporarily connecting to your home’s septic system is up to code.

If the sewer cleanout is far away (or uphill) from your RV, you will need a long, durable RV sewer hose and a macerator pump.

If your sewer system doesn’t have an accessible cleanout, you can sometimes add one (with a permit). If your home has a septic system, for instance, you may be able to add a 4” cleanout port either directly into your tank or into the main drain pipe. This may be necessary if your cleanout is located inside your home, such as in a bathroom or closet, or in your crawl space.

However, many localities will not allow you to dump directly through a sewer cleanout port . You can face severe fines for violating this code!

Install an In-Ground Septic Tank

In some areas, you may be required to install a separate in-ground sewage tank for your RV hookup. This is costly. And impossible for anyone but a super-DIYer.

Alternative Sewer Solutions

If you cannot easily hook up to your existing sewer system, and you don’t want to spend the money on a separate system, there are several alternatives.

• Composting toilet: These toilets cost from $250 to $1,000. Best for occasional use, composting toilets leverage heat, air and microbes to transform human waste into safe, non-stinky compost.
• Incineration toilet: While expensive (around $2,000), incineration toilets safely burn human waste into ash and non-toxic gases.
• Porta-Potty: Yeah, they’re kinda gross, but they work well in an emergency. And they’re cheap.
• Portable tank: You can always dump your waste into a portable tank for later disposal at an approved dumpsite. See the poor man’s RV hookup section for more information.

4. RV Parking Pad

You should build your parking pad as large as you can make it. There’s no such thing as a too-big parking pad. What if you upsize in a few years? What if you sell the house to another RV owner, who owns a Big Rig 40-ft Class A coach?

At a minimum, your pad should be four (4) feet wider and longer than your RV size. (Measure the length as tip-to-tail, not just body length).

You have several options for how to build your parking pad. Options include:

• Tamped earth

A full description of how to pour a concrete pad or build a permeable paver parking pad is beyond the scope of this post. But, we do want to offer some helpful tips.

DIY RV Parking Pad – Helpful Tips

• You’ll need to clear, grade (level), and tamp the parking spot. Ensure proper drainage. You don’t want to funnel water towards, say, your home’s foundation! You’ll probably need to hire professional help for this step. You can’t just rent a backhoe and start moving earth. YouTube will not confer magical craftsman powers upon you.
• Don’t forget the edging. Adding a wooden, stone or concrete edging will massively improve the curb appeal of your parking spot. Plus, it prevents erosion and controls water flow.
• If using gravel, use #2 washed gravel or #57 crushed stone (limestone). Put down 4-6 inches of gravel (6 inches for heavier motorhomes). Don’t use recycled concrete, which might have stray rebar in it. Use a gravel grid reinforcement system and landscape filter fabric to prevent gravel from sinking or spreading out.
• If pouring a concrete pad, don’t forget (or forego) the good stuff! Choose at least 4000# psi concrete mix with plenty of rebar reinforcement and expansion joints. Space the expansion joints no more than 2 times (in feet) the slab thickness (in inches). So a 4” pad, for instance, should have expansion joints every 8 ft (or less).
• Check the code. Your locality may have strict rules for backyard parking pads, including A) whether they are allowed to exist and B) how they must be constructed.

Installing RV hookups at home can sound like a daunting task. And it’s different for everyone. If you’re parking your RV side-by-side with your house, you might be able to finish the project in a weekend! If you’re building a remote camping spot 200 feet from your residence with a separate septic system, it may take months to contract and finish the work. But as the saying goes, “The best time to get started is yesterday!”

Andy Herrick is a blogging nerd, #8 Enneagram, wannabe bread baker, INTJ, RV industry professional, and small business entrepreneur. He can be found hanging out with his lovely wife and family, skiing, cycling, climbing, hiking, and convincing anyone who will listen why dogs aren’t really that great of pets. Also, he runs this website.

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How to Hook Up a Trailer

Last Updated: April 10, 2024 Fact Checked

This article was co-authored by Bruce Storrs . Bruce Storrs is a Driving Instructor and the President & CEO of North County School of Driving in San Marcos, California. With more than 31 years of experience, he specializes in teaching teens and adults safe driving behaviors in the classroom, online, and behind the wheel. Bruce earned a BA and MA from San Diego State University. There are 10 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been fact-checked, ensuring the accuracy of any cited facts and confirming the authority of its sources. This article has been viewed 355,947 times.

Hooking up a trailer to your car or truck is an easy way to increase the storage capacity of your vehicle. However, failing to attach your trailer correctly can lead to damage to your own car, the trailer, and other vehicles around you as you drive. By securing the coupler to the hitch ball on your vehicle, making sure that it’s locked in properly, and wiring up the lights, you can hook up a trailer safely and easily.

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Lining up Your Vehicle

• Most trailers will have an attached jack with a wheel on the end that can help keep the trailer level without it being attached to anything. Keep this out while moving the trailer by hand to reduce some of the heavy lifting.
• If your trailer is already full, it might be more difficult to move by hand. Rotate it on the spot as much as you can to make the reversing job easier, as trying to move it yourself may be difficult.

• Reversing your car into the right position and space is much easier when you have a lot of room to work with.
• Keeping the trailer and vehicle lined up properly will make driving much easier, especially when you’re first getting onto the road.
• It might help to get a friend or someone else to help you reverse the car. They can guide you on how far back to drive and help you correct the vehicle if it starts angling in one direction.

• If your trailer doesn’t have an attached jack, you could use a regular car jack to hold the trailer at the right height.
• Attached trailer jacks will be slightly behind the coupler on the trailer.
• If the trailer is light enough and easy to move, you could simply lift the trailer coupler forward and place it over the hitch ball.
• The hitch ball is the metal ball on the back of your car that the trailer coupler will attach to.

• It’s possible to reverse into position by yourself, but it will take a lot of trial and error. Reverse a little bit, put on the break, and get out to check how much further back you need to go. Repeat this process until everything is lined up.
• If you reverse too far back, you may hit the coupler and scratch or damage the back of your car.

Securing the Trailer

• Some trailers might have methods other than latch pins used to hold the latch in place. Try to raise the latch and see what’s holding it in place to find the right way to release it.
• The latch will likely be a metal handle on top of the trailer coupler.
• If the coupler is already unlocked, you can skip this step.

• If the latch has been lifted and everything is positioned properly, the socket should lower and sit perfectly on the hitch ball.

• The wheel on the trailer jack is not designed for use while driving. Do not drive with the trailer jack on or extended at risk of damaging the trailer, your vehicle, or other vehicles on the road.

• Different trailers and trailer couplers may have slightly different locking mechanisms. Always consult the owner’s manual for your own trailer to make sure you lock it into place properly.

• The safety chains will be the last safety mechanism in place if the coupler latch fails, so they are legally required in many places.
• If the coupler disconnects from the vehicle while you’re driving, it will fall and land on the crossed chains rather than hitting the road.
• The safety chains will be attached to your trailer, just below the coupler.

Connecting the Lights

• If you cannot find the wiring socket on your car, check the manufacturer’s instructions for your car for further assistance.
• If your wiring socket is damaged, corroded, or frayed in any way, have it looked over by a mechanic before plugging the trailer wire into it.

• Some trailers will have metal loops along the side of the coupler that the wire can be threaded through to keep it out of the way.
• Avoid running the wire underneath the coupler and hitch ball, as this will increase the chances of it getting damaged or becoming unplugged should the trailer detach from your vehicle.

• If any of the lights aren’t working, you should not drive the trailer. This is the same as driving without the corresponding light on your car working. Call a mechanic to ask for assistance before driving your car with the trailer attached.
• Rather than moving back and forth from the driver's seat of your car to the rear end of your trailer, ask a friend to check the lights while you activate them.

Community Q&A

• If the trailer is light enough, it may be easier to wheel it to the hitch ball on your car, rather than reversing the car to the trailer. Always lift with your legs to avoid injury while you do so. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• If your car has a reversing camera, you may be able to use it to easily line up the trailer socket with the hitch ball. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• You should check to make sure the hitch ball and coupler are firmly attached. Use the jack to lift up the trailer slightly and make sure it stays securely attached to your car. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0

• Always check to make sure that a child or pet has not wandered behind the vehicle before you start backing up. Thanks Helpful 4 Not Helpful 1
• The safety chains should only be used as an extra measure of security, rather than being relied on to move your trailer. Thanks Helpful 2 Not Helpful 0
• Always inspect the hitch connections, tires and running gear before you get ready to pull away after a rest or fuel stop. Thanks Helpful 5 Not Helpful 5
• Make sure the ball hitch on your vehicle is the same size as the ball socket on your trailer. The size of each will be stamped near the ball or socket. [13] X Research source Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• Never have a person stand between the vehicle and trailer while you move the trailer. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0

You Might Also Like

• ↑ https://driving-tests.org/beginner-drivers/how-to-attach-a-trailer/
• ↑ https://belcocustomtrailers.com.au/trailer-tips/how-to-hook-up-a-trailer/
• ↑ https://youtu.be/pjGt1Hkm1y8?t=74
• ↑ https://youtu.be/GwxVB4xbA5k?t=48
• ↑ https://youtu.be/pjGt1Hkm1y8?t=84
• ↑ https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6791/the-right-way-to-tow-a-trailer/
• ↑ https://youtu.be/GwxVB4xbA5k?t=128
• ↑ https://youtu.be/pjGt1Hkm1y8?t=114
• ↑ https://youtu.be/pjGt1Hkm1y8?t=129
• ↑ https://youtu.be/pjGt1Hkm1y8?t=14

About This Article

To hook up a trailer, move the trailer to an open stretch of driveway if you can, and position it so you can approach it in a straight line with your vehicle. Drive your vehicle forward so it’s directly in front of the trailer, and then slowly reverse as directly in line with the trailer as you can. Stop when the back of the car is around 1 foot away from the front of the trailer. Using the built-in trailer jack or a regular car jack, raise the metal socket, called the “coupler,” on the end of the trailer to about 2 to 3 inches above the hitch ball on the back of your car. Then, reverse your car slowly until the hitch ball is directly under the socket. If you can, have a friend help guide you and tell you when to stop reversing. Unlock the latch on the trailer coupler, and then adjust the jack to lower the coupler onto the hitch ball until the weight of the trailer is fully supported by your car. For more tips from our co-author, like how to connect the lights of your trailer to your car, keep reading! Did this summary help you? Yes No

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The Ultimate Step-by-Step Guide to RV Electrical Hookups

Modern RVs are technological marvels, enabling travelers to have all of the trappings of home with them out in the wilderness. Yes, with propane gas and electric hookups, you don't have to sacrifice comfort to go on an adventure. 

Ideally, whichever campground you end up booking will have full hookups, while others will have either 30 or 50 amp electricity and water. After you arrive, you will need to connect your RV yourself.

If you don't know how to connect your RV electrical system to a campground hookup, or need a reminder of what to do, then now's the time to pay attention!

The Difference Between 30 and 50 Amp Systems

First up, do you know the difference between 30 amp and 50 amp RV electrical hookup systems? You're more likely to encounter a 30 amp RV electrical hookup system in smaller RVs, while fifth wheels and larger motorhomes are generally equipped with a 50 amp system.

In terms of power, 30 amp RV hookups receive 3,600 watts of power, while 50 amp systems receive more than 12,000 watts. In practical terms, an RV with 30 amps of power can run fewer appliances than one with 50 amps.

With a 50 amp RV electrical hookup, you're on your way to bigger and better things. You can run multiple appliances in a 50 amp RV without worrying about tripping the breaker. Try to run multiple appliances in a 30 amp RV, and you'll trip the breaker in much less time than it takes to hook up. 

However, if you hook up your 30 amp RV to a 50 amp hookup at a campsite, know that you're still only going to draw 30 amps; and, if there are only 30 amp hookups, but you've got a 50 amp RV? You're still not going to be able to draw more than 30 amps.

Cruise America RV are equipped with 30 amp and a 15 amp adapter. If you can, try to find campsites that have the appropriate RV electrical hookup for the system in your RV to make things easier for you.

Your Step-By-Step Guide To RV Electrical Hookups

Once you've arrived at a campground with electrical hookups, get to know the system and breaker there. After you've found it and worked out what the power supply is, make sure everything is turned off in your RV, and also shut off the campsite's power supply. That's step one.

Next, pull out your RV's plug, which you will connect to the campground power box you just shut off. But, hang on! Remember what was said about 30 amp and 50 amp systems? If your RV electrical system is being connected to a hookup with different amperage, you'll likely need an adapter. If everything looks correct, plug your RV into the power system. Step two –– done.

The final step? Step three is when you switch your campsite's breaker back on. You should now have power in your RV!

What About Unhooking the RV Electrical System?

To unhook your RV, simply follow the above steps, with the main difference being unplugging your rig instead of plugging it in!

RV Electrical Hookup at Home

There may also be times when hooking up your RV to your actual house will be desirable or necessary. For instance, if you want to check to make sure everything is working well before you head out on a road trip, it makes sense to perform a kind of diagnostic check. Or, it may simply be that you're loading it up with perishable food, and want to keep some things cold. 

Even if you're not an RV owner, you can take an RV rental home and hook it up to your house as you prepare for your next big journey. You won't be able to run everything, or for very long, but think of this as a backup plan to handle things before camping.

You can proceed with an RV electrical hookup at home without too much fuss, provided you have a connector for a three-prong plug. You will also need a 30/50 amp adapter to hook up to a house's 15/20 amp system. 

Make sure the breakers are off at your house, and that everything is off in your RV, too. Once you've connected your RV to your house with a three-prong connector and/or adapter, you can switch your house's breakers back on and everything should be hunky-dory. 

Keep in mind that RV appliances and systems can use a lot of electricity and thus drive up your bill, so try not to rely on your home’s electric grid for too long.

Connect With Cruise Before You Connect With a Campground

If you're going RV camping , you need to know 1) what kind of RV electrical system your RV has, 2) what kind of hookups there are at your chosen RV campsite, and 3) how to proceed with an RV electrical hookup once you've arrived at your campground. 

Surely, by now, you have the basics down to avoid electrical problems , which means it's time to get yourself an RV rental from Cruise America . Our RVs are equipped with 30 amp and 15 amp adapters.

Before you can connect an RV electrical hookup, you have to have an RV, and Cruise America has the one you're looking for. Connect with Cruise America today to power up your next RV adventure!

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How to Install RV Hookups at Home

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Thanks for your support! If you make a purchase using our links in this article, we may make a commission. And, as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. See the full disclosure here .

We’ve been considering installing RV hookups at home for water, sewer, and electrical. We would like to do this so we have a place to store the RV but also so we can live in or service our RV right at home. But, there are steps we must take to ensure we do things the right way.

So how do you smoothly connect water, electric, and sewer hookups to your RV at home?

1. Build a Gravel or Concrete Parking Pad 2. Run a Water Hookup to the RV 3. Run an Electrical Hookup to the RV 4. Install or Use Your Existing Permanent Sewer Hookup

In this article, we will run through some home RV parking hookup ideas so you can install your own RV hookups right at home. Please be aware that depending on where you live, you may need permits to install permanent RV hookups at home. So, check with your local officials before you begin any work.

Build a Gravel or Concrete Parking Pad

If you want your RV hookups to go as seamlessly as possible, you will want to build a gravel or concrete pad. This setup allows your RV to rest on a flat surface outside of your home. Ultimately, it will keep the weight of your RV from settling into the ground. If you were to park your RV on grass sooner or later, the ground will settle, and your RV will no longer be level.

To build a gravel or concrete parking pad, you should first measure the length and width of your RV. You want to make the pad about 4 feet wider and 4 feet longer than your RV, so you have room to walk around the RV. You should also consider the height of your RV to make sure you don’t hit any overhead power, phone, or cable TV lines.

To build a gravel pad, you will need to start by leveling the area where you want to install the pad. You should plan to make the gravel pad 4-6 inches deep. The heavier the RV, the deeper the gravel.

Once you dig out and level the area, install a layer of filter cloth over the dirt BEFORE filling in with gravel. Most people don’t know to install the filter cloth first. The filter cloth keeps the dirt under the gravel from eroding, so you don’t end up with spots that sink.

I recommend using #57, or #2 washed gravel for your gravel pad. Do not use pea gravel because your rig will sink right into it. I also do not recommend using crush and run, which is gravel mixed with gravel dust. Crush and run is very dirty and you will track the stone dust into your RV, and maybe your house too.

And lastly, I absolutely do not recommend using recycled concrete. Recycled concrete typically has wire mesh or rebar in it, which is metal used inside of concrete to add to its overall strength. Use recycled concrete, and I guarantee you will get a flat tire at some point.

To build a concrete pad, you will need to dig and deep enough to install 4 inches of gravel below the 4-6 inches of concrete you will then pour on top. You should still use filter cloth under the gravel, and I recommend using crush and run gravel and tamping it down under the concrete.

When pouring the concrete, you will want to use 2 x 6s to build a form, so your concrete pad has a clean edge all the way around. Also, you should install wire mesh in your concrete pad or buy concrete that has fiber mesh mixed into it for added strength.

Also, I do not recommend trenching under your parking pad for your water or electric lines. I realize that if you take a shorter path, the cost of materials will be less expensive.

But, if there is ever a problem with either of those lines, you may have to dig up your parking pad to make a repair. And, the trench lines are likely to settle at some point which will cause the pad to sink in those spots.

If time, tools, or know-how aren’t on your side, you can always hire a contractor to do the dirty work for you.

Install Sturdy Posts for Your Water and Electrical Hookups

When the pad is complete, it’s time to install 4 x 4 posts for the RV hookups. You can use the leftover concrete if you installed a concrete pad to do this. Or, you can just buy a few bags of concrete and dry pack the posts if you installed a gravel pad.

Dig a hole for each post about 8 inches in diameter and about 30 inches deep. Install the posts as level and plumb as possible and then pack with leftover concrete or just pour the dry concrete right from the bag around the post.

This is called dry packing and the moisture from the ground will seep into the dry concrete mix and it will harden up. If you live in very dry climates, this method will not work and you will have to mix it with water before packing it around the post.

Obviously, you will want the water and electrical posts to be on the correct side of the RV to make hooking up the electric line and water hose as easy as possible.

Install the Water Line Hookup First

First, dig a trench from the water source to the post for the water hookup. Why dig a trench? Well, you’ll need something that you can run the waterline through so it doesn’t get damaged or freeze. You’ll want to strategically position your post and trench. (Knowing this may affect where you choose to install your post in the first place)

Before you dig your trench, you should call Miss Utility. or whatever service is in your area, to come out and mark all of the existing utility lines on your property. In fact, in Maryland, where we live, it’s the law.

Calling a utility marking company can help prevent you from hitting an existing water, power, or gas line! And it is expensive to pay the repair bill if you hit one of these lines.

Digging the trench for the waterline is the hardest part of setting up the waterline. It’s labor intensive because you have to dig down below the frost line.

Or you can rent a trenching machine at Home Depot so you can get the waterline installed below the frost line for your area of the country. A frost line is how deep the ground freezes during winter. Once you know the frost line depth, be sure to dig below it or the water line could freeze.

CPVC pipe is easy to install and it is rated for installation both above and below ground. Just make sure you do not use purple primer on the CPVC pipe and that you use the proper glue rated for CPVC.

After running your water line through the trench, you’ll run the water line up the post. Before securing the water line to the post, wrap the water line with heat tape. This will keep the water line above the frost line from freezing.

Then secure the line with pipe clamps and fill in the trench. So long as your line is secure, you shouldn’t run into any problems hooking up your RV at home. Add the faucet, and you are almost done.

While you still have to set up the electricity and sewer lines, you’ve got the first part under your belt! It’s a rewarding feeling, especially when you’ve done it all yourself. So go ahead and celebrate, but not for too long—there’s more work to be done.

Installing the RV Electrical Hookup at Home

Hooking up electric service to your RV means figuring out some details about your rig. In this case, you’ll want to figure out what number of amps your RV pulls.

This will determine which breaker box and outlet you purchase for your electrical line. You should also decide if you want phone and cable TV service for the RV because the electrician can take care of those items too.

RVs typically pull two different amperage levels. So, figure out whether yours is 30 amp or 50 amp. Refer to the owner’s manual for this information. Another option is to look at your RV’s male electric plug since the two amp options look different. In our case, our RV can run on a 110-volt line so all we need to do is plug into an existing outside receptacle. 

If you need 30 or 50 amps of electricity, it’s probably best left to an electrician to do the work. I highly recommend hiring an electrician because the electrical line will need to be run from your breaker box, or a sub-panel to the RV. A licensed electrician will be able to determine what size electric line you need run from your house to your RV.

By having a dedicated 30 or 50 amp circuit installed for your RV, you will be able to run all of the appliances in your RV. I also recommend having a 110 outlet mounted on the electrical post so you have somewhere to plug in your heat tape for the water line during the winter.

To save yourself some money, you can install the trench for the electric line from the house to the RV. And since you will possibly have rented a trenching machine, why not just get it done so, you aren’t paying an electrician top dollar to dig it for you.

You’ll want to dig a trench from your house to the post. But first, have the electrician show you where and how deep to dig the trench. You can ask him to show you when he visits to give you an estimate for the work. This way, the trench will be ready when he arrives to do the job.

Do note that you’ll want the electric line to be a separate trench. Don’t share the trench with the water line. Just like the water line, secure the electrical wire to the post with u-shaped clamps. 

Turn off all appliances and breakers before plugging in and install a good 30 amp surge protector or 50 amp surge protector before plugging the RV into the new electrical receptacle. A surge protector can help to ensure that the appliances in the RV don’t short out in case of an electrical surge.

It’s incredibly expensive to replace the electrical appliances in your RV. So, whether at home or at a campground, you should always use a 30 amp or 50 amp surge protector.

How to Install an RV Sewer Hookup at Home

There are a few ways to accomplish setting up an RV sewer hookup at home. They are hooking up to the existing public sewer system, hooking up to your private septic system, or installing a sewer tank.

Hooking up to your existing public sewer system is the easiest way to drain your black and gray water tanks, but it also may be illegal where you live. So, you will need to check with your local jurisdiction before attempting to hook up this way.

But if it’s legal, it’s as simple as hooking up your sewer at a campground. Just look for the sewer cap in your yard, remove it, and hook up your sewer line.

The process is similar if you have a septic system on your property, but you may need to install a 4-inch pipe from the septic holding tank, so you have something to connect to.

Adding an RV in-ground septic tank to your yard is the last solution to the sewer hookup problem because it can be very expensive to bury a holding tank. And then, after it’s installed, you will have to pay to have it pumped out when needed. You will also probably need to have a contractor install the septic tank for you, and then you just hookup like at a campground.

Consider Using a Compost Toilet

There’s an alternative to a septic tank setup. Compost toilets are eco-friendly and help you avoid having to install a tank on your property. In a self-composting toilet, the liquid and solid wastes are kept separate, but how?

Liquid waste goes in the front compartment and is tossed outside in a safe location when full. Meanwhile, solid waste finds its way into the back section. Natural ingredients like mulch or moss help it break down, and compost and a fan help avoid any smells before they begin.

You can then deliver compost build-up to your outdoor composting pile. Composting toilets aren’t cheap but they are certainly less expensive than installing a septic holding tank.

RV Hookup Installation Costs

The costs for water, sewer and electrical hookups can vary quite a bit depending on how much work you can do yourself, what type of sewer system you need, and if you need to pay for permits in your area.

Below are some cost ranges for RV hookups at home:

• RV Water Hookups – From $20 if you do it yourself to $750 if you hire a plumber
• RV Electrical Hookups – From $100 if you do it yourself to $1200 if you hire an electrician
• RV Sewer Hookups – From $0 if you can hook up to your existing sewer or septic system to $3500 or more if you have a sewer tank installed.

It can be really easy or pretty complicated and expensive to install RV hookups at Home. But it can be done! Just be sure to do your homework up front to know if this option will work for you. For some very good related information about parking an RV at home, check out these other articles we wrote.

RELATED READING :

– can i park an rv in my driveway, – can i live in an rv on my own property, – 21 must have rv accessories for a new camper or travel trailer, – rv hookups explained (water, sewer, electric).

Do you have any thoughts or ideas to share about installing RV hookups at home? Please share in the comments section below!

31 thoughts on “How to Install RV Hookups at Home”

Hi, Ive searched all over the internet for the answer to this question and have not found it. I have 7 acres in the country, when purchased this land it already had a septic tank, electric pole and water well on it. I had electrician install a pole to put electric for my rv, a plumber to run septic to graveled area where I will park my travel trailer so those areas are taken care of. Now I have a water well thats about 40 ft. from where the trailer will be parked. I called the well service people and was told that if I just planned on using trailer as an occasional vacation spot that instead of running a water line to trailer, I could just run a water hose from the well spout to the trailer. The well house in enclosed in a 5×5 by 4 ft tall square enclosure made up of cinder blocks with a corrigated tin lid. When looking at the plumbing there is a metal spigot attached to the pvc piping next to the pressure switch, oh and my well does not have a pressure regulator guage on it that I can find. Then at the end of the pvc piping there is narrow piece of pvc pipe with a plastic valve on top, when you turn the valve water shoots out of it. Not sure what that is for, is it to put on another connection? So my question is, would i attach the water hose to the metal spigot or have to install a fixture onto that end pvc piece with the plastic valve to attach water hose to to run to trailer? Also, would I need to attach a pressure guage at that spigot to control the water pressure and would I install a water filter onto the well spigot or would the pressure guage and water filter go on the other end of the water hose that attaches directly to the trailer?

Regarding dumping a black RV tank into a residental septic tank I am wondering if the typical odor eliminating and break up chemicals that are used in a RV black tank would cause havoc with the bacterial world in the septic tank. Any opinion on this question?

Already have full hookups on our property but looking to make them better. Trying to find the sewer hookups like you find at Disney or higher end RV parks that put the connection below the surface and allow you to cover it when not in use. Any idea of where to find them?

Thanks for the article.

I believe I will hire professionals and appreciate all the insights.

Hi Laura, I wish you the best of luck! Keep us posted on the project. Mike

Hello, I am planning on living in my trailer on an isolated corner of my parents property. Their septic tank is about an acre away from where I am parking the trailer. What would be the best (cheapest) option for hook up?

Do you have any information on Maryland restrictions? My mother wants to park one on our property and live out of it. Thank you!

We are selling our house and buying an trailer to live in for a period of time (1-2 years). The property we are going to does not have a septic system so I will have to install one. What size would you recommend I install and about how frequent would that have to be pumped? Can the gray and black water go into the same tank. Family of 4 2 adults with 2 toddlers. Totally new to camper/RV world so sorry if this is a dumb question. Can’t seem to find much on the Google machine.

Thanks, Joe

No one has a 115 amp receptacle outside their house. I think you meant 115 volts. Most homes only have 100 amp service total.

Thanks Bob – sometimes I do misspeak for sure. Mike

Happy new year 2021 to all! Thank you so much for this site & wealth of info! My husband & I have an RV and enjoyed several years traveling locally, in a tri-state area bc of his medical issues. Hope to get back to it again this year. My question, however, is about my (step)daughter. College student who will graduate in 6 months but due to fast roommate loss, had to move in with her mom. Sorry, to make this long story shorter…she’s convinced, with her mom’s encouragement that she can just buy a camper, travel trailer, for couple thousand dollars and set it up on her grandmother’s home area, less than acre, in a subdivision. I’m trying to not scream how crazy this is but can you tell me (without all my emotions added) Why this is or isn’t even plausible much less a good idea?? She thinks she can buy a used one & remodel the interior like she sees online…however we don’t have a plumber, electrician or contractor in our family anywhere!?!? Sorry for length of this but I’m trying to get a response together, with facts not my emotions

Mike thank you for this informative and straightforward session!

looking at your picture, I would never put the water and electric on the same pole, actually i would separate them by at least 6 feet. when you have a backflow preventer on the end of the faucet, they tend to leak often, having it right next to a power outlet is asking for trouble. other than this I think you have shared some good info. thanks.

Thanks Gregg, Water and electric are on the same pole in just about every campground in the US… Is this dangerous? Thanks Mike

What would be approximate cost of gravel pad 20×14. As in someone else but me doing it myself?

Have you ever seen a stainless steel RV dump “sink” which has an RV sewer hose connection for dumping and also a smaller drain? Ft. Wilderness had these at Disney years ago and I’d like to install one in the barn we are building for our RV. The purpose is should there be some leakage at the dump hose connection it stays contained in the sink and then goes down the separate smaller drain in the corner of the sink. Great for rinsing everything out afterwards. Looked everywhere but can’t find a small sink like that with the larger and smaller drain holes in it.

As another alternative for sewer hookup is a macerator pump. Connect it to your sewer connection on the RV and its discharge is pumped through a 3/4″ to 1″ garden hose. These pumps typically run on 12 volt DC from the RV. The hose can be discharged directly into a toilet or piped into the sanitary piping inside a building.

Hi Doug, That is a great option too! Thanks for sharing that info with the group! We started a new Facebook group that we are launching today called RV Camping for Newbies! It’s a great place to ask questions and get great answers from your fellow RVers in the group! We hope you’ll check it out! Mike and Susan https://www.facebook.com/groups/RVCampingforNewbies/

We recently bought a cabin that has what we were told were hookups for gray water and black water. How do I know that they will work if we have a friend with an RV come and visit? I’m coming in the dark having never RV or even camped much.

thanks! Jean

That’s a tough one Jean. If you have zero experience I would ask a plumber come and take a look for you. They will be able to make sure everything works properly. Also – when you bought the cabin was there a home inspection? Maybe the home inspector tested the hookups and if he did it will be in the home inspection report. Thanks and best of luck! Mike

I have looked all over our yard for a sewer cap and can’t find one. I know where the septic tank lives. I am wondering how do you install a cap that goes into the septic tank?

hopefully by now you found it. you can “T” in off the clean out cap.

A Flowjet Portable Waste Water Macerator pump or Valtera SewerSolution is also a great way to pump waste water into a sewer clean-out or even household toilet. My Flojet can empty my 30 gallon tank in less than 5 minutes through a high quality hose over 50′ to my toilet. Would not be without it.

There are two sewer pipes coming out of the ground at my house one in front of the other and I don’t want to play any many mighty mo, so do you the one close to the house or the farther, thanks, Randall

Hi Randall,

That’s very unusual but I would remove one cap and flush the toilet in your house and see if you hear the water rushing through the pipe. Then I would put the cap back on and remove the second cap and flush the toilet or run a lot of water and see if you can hear it. Whichever pipe you hear the water running through is the sewer pipe you can connect to. Hope this helps! Let me know how you make out! Mike

Two sewer cleanouts in line can indicate either 1) a backflow/backcheck valve & cleanout combination or 2) two one-way cleanouts installed back to back (one guides the sewer snake upstream the other guides it downstream).

That is not unusual. They are sewer clean outs and they “sweep” in different directions. The one closest to the house actually sweeps toward the street so you can clean out clogs between the street and the house. The one farthest from the house (closest to the street) actually “sweeps” toward the house so you can clean out clogs under house. Imagine a system where the clean out closest to the street swept toward the street and the clean out closest to the house swept toward the house. There would be an 18 inch (24-36 inche?) space in the sewer line where no camera and no roto rooter would have access.

Why do you not use purple primer on the cpvc water line?

There is a primer for PVC, for CPVC and for both PVC and CPVC. The same is true for the glue. I’ve seen more people use the wrong primer and the wrong glue than you can shake a stick at. So, I recommend no purple primer on CPVC and use the correct glue. Just makes it simpler.

Hey Mike, thanks for the clarity! However, “why” or “what” is the end result if the “purple” primer is used, pls!?

Respectfully, Joe

Hi Joe, Great question. There are several types of purple primer on the market. One is for use on PVC, one is for use on CPVC and finally, there is a purple primer that can be used on both PVC and CPVC. However, if you use the wrong primer on your CPVC pipe the seal can leak over time. And I have seen countless times where people have used the wrong primer on the wrong pipe! So, I recommend not using it and just going with good CPVC glue. Or if you do choose to use the purple primer just make sure you are using the right one. PVC and CPVC are not the same. Hope this helps! Mike

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Can You Hookup Your RV Into House Electrical System?

• Last Updated: June 1, 2024
• 11 minutes read

Whether you’re a full-time RVer or a weekend road warrior, you’ve no doubt asked yourself if you can plug your RV into a house outlet.

After all, you’ve probably witnessed friends who are moochdocking – the art of plugging a travel trailer into a friend’s house to mooch off their electricity.

Or maybe you’ve seen someone with a big garage or shed for their RV who seems to have their camper powered up all the time. 

Which begs the question – can you plug your RV into your house electrical outlet?

The short answer is yes, you can plug your RV into a household electric system. But there are limitations including the sorts of RV appliances you can run and the amount of time you can run an RV on household electric. For example, RVs wired for 30 amp electricity are easier to plug into your house than RVs with a 50 amp hookup. And you need to be careful to understand how much your home circuit breaker can withstand.

And you also need to decide if you’ll use an adapter to plug your camper into your house or if you’ll hire an electrician to wire up a special plug for your RV.

So let’s break it all down for you here – what sorts of campers you can plug into your house, how you should plug them in, and the limitations that come with plugging your RV in at home.

IN THIS ARTICLE

Is it Possible to Plug an RV Into a House Electric System?

Yes, you can plug your camper into a household outlet. 

But you’re probably asking yourself:

• How can I plug a 30 amp RV into my house? 
• How can I plug a 50 amp RV into my house?
• And, should I simply plug my RV into my house outlet or do I need a special plug?

The answers to the above questions depend on what type of camper you have, how you plan to use your camper at your house, and the specifics of your home’s electrical system.

What Types of Campers Can I Plug Into My House?

Any modern RV, travel trailer, camper, or pop up can be plugged into your house. This is true for both 30 amp and 50 amp RVs.

But plugging your RV into a house outlet does not mean that it will run like normal.

Unless you plan to make some modifications to your home electrical system, you’ll be limited on how you can use power in your RV.

This is especially true if you have a larger motorhome with a 50 amp hookup.

Understanding the Basics of RV Electric Will Help You Know Your Limitations When Plugging Your Camper in at Home

Before deciding how to plug your camper into a house outlet, it’s important to understand the basics of RV power systems:

1. RVs generally have one of two types of power – 30 amp or 50 amp.

30amp RV plugs have 3 prongs and are larger than your standard home plug.

50amp RV plugs have 4 prongs and are also larger than a standard home plug.

50amp plugs and power systems are generally found on larger RVs – especially          those with two or more air-conditioners on the roof.

2. Some smaller pop-up or teardrop campers will have a standard household 110volt plug coming out of them.

Because pop-up/teardrop campers have limited power needs, they can usually be plugged into household outlets without modification.

3. Campers also have an internal 12 volt power system that powers lights and other small electronics.

Your RVs 12 volt power system exists so you can use your camper’s onboard batteries to power small electronics (e.g. lights) when you are not plugged in.

When you plug your RV into your house, your 12 volt system will be powered because your RV has a converter that will take some of the 110 volt power from your house and convert it to 12 volt.

When you plug into a house outlet, your RV will also charge its internal batteries so you can use the 12 volt system when you unplug.

How Can I Run Electricity From My House To My RV?

When it comes to plugging your RV into your house, you have two main options: 

Use an adapter to plug your RV cord into a standard household outlet.

Hire an electrician to wire a 30 or 50 amp plug into your home (this is the same outlet you use at most RV parks).

If you go with option 1, the adapter will cost between $10-$30. Be sure to buy an adapter that is specific for a 30 or 50 amp plug, depending on which you have.

Option 1 will also limit you on what appliances you can run in your RV. More on that in a moment.

If you go with option 2, you could spend anywhere from $200-$1,000+ having an electrician wire up the appropriate plug. 

With option 2, you won’t need an adapter because your electrician will wire up the exact outlet your RV requires.

Option 2 will usually allow you to run your RV just as you normally would at an RV campground – using your air-conditioner and other appliances without issue as you stay in your camper. 

How To Plug In An RV Into House Electric

Let’s assume you don’t want to shell out for an electrician and you go with option 1. Here are the steps you’ll want to follow to plug in an RV to your home’s electrical system:

• Be sure that all power is off in your RV – If you accidentally left your RV’s air-conditioner, heater, or other energy hungry appliances on before plugging into your house, you’ll suck a big amount of power when you plug in. This usually results in a circuit breaker getting tripped and all power getting cut off to your RV. Avoid this problem by first shutting down all electrical appliances in your camper.
• Pick the house outlet you want to use – This step can be a bit tricky, but it is vital that you pick an outlet with a high amp rating to best handle your camper being plugged into it. To figure this out, you’ll need to go to your house’s circuit breaker and find the switch for the outlet you want to plug your RV into. On the switch, you should see a number. That number is the maximum number of amps that that outlet can handle before the breaker trips and you lose power.  Be sure the number on that switch is 10amps or higher. Many household circuits are only 5amps which usually won’t provide enough power for your RV.
• Get a heavy duty extension cord long enough to stretch from your RV to the household outlet – The safest and most reliable extension cords are the thick ones designed for RVs. By using an RV extension cord all the way up to your household outlet, you’ll be getting the maximum amount of power from your home outlet.
• Plug your RV cord or extension cord into the adapter – Now that you’ve gotten your RV power cord extended to the outlet you want to use, you will need to use your adapter to actually plug in to your house outlet.30/50 amp RV plugs are much larger than a household outlet, so that’s why we need the adapter to make the connection.
• Plug the adapter into your household outlet – Simply plug your RV cord into the female end of the adapter and then plug the male end of the adapter into your house outlet.

Plugging Your Camper in at Home: What Appliances Can You Use?

When you plug your RV into a standard household outlet, you will be limited on the appliances you can use in your RV.

Plugging your camper into your house is great for running small appliances like most RV fridges, the converter that charges your RV batteries, interior lights, and small plug-in electronics (e.g. phone or computer chargers).

Generally speaking, when your camper is plugged into your house, you could run a space heater or a hair dryer or your microwave. 

But never try to run two power hungry devices at the same time when your travel trailer is plugged in at home.

If you do, you’ll likely trip your home circuit breaker and cut power to your entire RV.  

Plugging Your Camper in at Home: What Appliances Can You NOT Use?

Plugging your camper into your house generally won’t allow you to simultaneously run power hungry appliances like space heaters, hairdryers, and microwaves.You can get around this by only running one power-sucking appliance at a time.

That said, you will rarely – if ever – be able to run your air-conditioner while plugged into your house. 

Air-conditioners usually hog so much power that they’ll trip most household breakers even if they’re the only thing running in your RV. 

Can I Use the 220v Outlet for my Clothes Dryer/Oven to Plug in my RV?

Unfortunately, no.

Most electric stoves and clothes dryers in your home have a larger 220v outlet.

While this outlet might look like it’s made for your RV, trust us, it is not. In fact, even if you were to figure out a way to rig this up, you’d fry your RV’s electronics as soon as you plugged in.

So please do not try this. 

All RVs large and small are wired up for 110v power and you will cause extreme damage if you try to run 220v power into your camper. 

The good news is, your 220 volt outlet is not even compatible with any RV plug, so unless you perform some major modifications, it’s very hard to make this mistake!

Benefits of Plugging Your Camper into Your House

Even if you don’t plan on staying in your camper for awhile, there are many benefits to keeping it plugged in at home:

1. It will keep your batteries charged, allowing you to have 12volt power when not plugged in.

Just be sure to read your owner’s manual to make sure your battery charger is “smart” so it won’t overcharge your RV batteries.

2. It keeps your fridge running.

Let’s say you bring your camper out every weekend for football games… By leaving your camper plugged in, you can keep those game snacks and drinks cool in the fridge without having to move them.

3. Run ultrasonic pest controllers.

• These devices keep pests away with high-frequency sound, but they need power to keep running while you’re away.

4. You can power dehumidifiers.

• A great tool for keeping destructive moisture out of your camper.

I Keep Losing Power to My RV When Plugged Into My House. What Should I Do?

This usually happens when you pull too much power for your household outlet by running too many power-hungry appliances.

Remember that your air-conditioner will almost always not work when plugged into your house, so if you tried that and lost power to your RV, you know what the culprit is.

Or, perhaps you tried running the microwave and a hairdryer at the same time and power suddenly shut off?

Or, you may be plugged into an outlet that’s on a circuit with a low amp rating. Try plugging into an outlet in another part of the house to see if this resolves the problem.

In these cases, the most likely cause is that your household breaker has tripped, cutting off power to the outlet that you plugged your camper into.

This rarely causes damage, but is a message that you’re trying to pull too much power in your RV. 

Simply shut off all electrical appliances in your RV, locate your home’s circuit breaker, and turn the tripped circuit back on.

Once you’ve done that, you should have power back to your camper. Just be sure not to repeat the mistake by running the devices (or combination of devices) that caused the power outage. 

Always Use a Surge Protector When Your Travel Trailer is Plugged into Your House.

Surge protectors keep your RV electronics safe in the event that a power surge occurs.

If your RV is plugged into your house and the power grid surges, your camper’s electronics will get cooked – unless you have a surge protector.

RV surge protectors come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and prices, but they will generally attach to your RV power cord. 

By attaching a surge protector as you plug your RV into your home, you’ll help protect against this costly situation.

Whether you plan to moochdock, live in your own driveway, or just want to keep your camper powered up when you’re not using it, you can plug your RV or travel trailer into your house.

Before you plug in, it’s important that you understand the limitations and benefits that come with plugging a 30 amp or 50 amp RV into a household outlet.

About Author / Aaron Richardson

Aaron Richardson is an expert RVer and the co-founder of RVing Know How. Aaron, along with his wife Evelyn, has been living and traveling in their Keystone Fuzion RV since 2017. Their adventures span across the country and beyond, including memorable RVing experiences in Mexico. Aaron's passion for the outdoors and RVing shines through in his writings, where he shares a blend of travel stories, practical tips, and insights to enhance the RV lifestyle.

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Barbara Steele

I’m in my father’s driveway for the winter and for some reason I think I fried my electric blanket. Everything else that I e used on the same outlet is fine just not the blanket. Clues as to why????? Please and thank you.

Joseph Marinaro

You stated that houses have 5 Amp circuit breakers? Also please explain why you would fry something plugged into a stove or dryer, my guess is that it has no neutral. Regards, Joe

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• Generator Hookup

Hooking Up Your Generator To Your Travel Trailer to Power Everything On The Road

Some people living in their motorhome may need a travel trailer generator. A generator is not necessary when you have a motorhome, but you can use it to power up your appliances as well as your lights if you are in a campground where there are no electrical hookups.

There are two ways that a generator can be hooked up to your travel trailer: One way is by using an adapter and the other way is by using a transfer switch. Transfer switches are way more expensive than an adapter but offers more pros. Below you can find a few options on Amazon.

Here is a list of adapters depending on your travel trailer amperage:

• 15 Amp Male to 30 Amp Female
• RVGUARD 50 Amp to 30 Amp RV Adapter Cord 12 Inch
• CircleCord 30 Amp to 50 Amp RV Adapter Cord
• RV Adapter Cord 50 Amp to 30 Amp with Locking Connector for RV Trailer Camper

Here is a list of transfer switches depending on your travel trailer amperage:

• Connecticut Electric EmerGen Manual Transfer Switch Kit 30 Amp, 25 Foot Cord, 10-Circuit, 7500 Watts, EGS107501G2K25 for Portable Generator (with 25 FT Generator Cord)
• Nature's Generator Power Transfer Switch Kit 4 Circuits, 15Amps, Indoor Manual Switch, 10 Foot 3 x 14 AWG Power Cord for Generator to Connect Inhouse Breaker Panel
• TOOLIOM 30 Amp Power Inlet Box for Generator Transfer Switch Use Up to 7,500 Watts,Locking 4-Prong L14-30P Heavy Duty Generator Inlet Weatherproof with Light Indication

Steps to install

• Before you begin, make sure that all of your appliances are turned off and that there is no electricity running through them. You will also want to turn off the circuit breaker that runs from the batteries of your travel trailer to the main electrical panel.
• Next, turn on the power cord of the generator and plug it into the outlet. If you have an adapter, then you can plug it into the outlet on the wall and then connect it to one end of the cable.
• Most travel trailers don'''t have direct hookups for generators, so you will need to get a dedicated adapter or transfer switch. The one you will use will depend on the make and model of your trailer and generator. Some older type travel trailers run on 30 amps while newer models run on 50 amps.
• Once you connect the cord from the generator to the trailer, turn it on and check the voltage. You can do this by checking for 120 volts at an outlet with a voltage meter or multimeter .

You will also want to check the amps coming out of your generator to make sure they are enough to power all of your appliances.

Things to consider before hooking up the generator to your trailer.

• Some generators produce clean power. By this, we mean that they have smooth sine waves of alternating current (AC). The sine wave has zero distortion and makes appliances work consistently. Other generators produce dirty power. Their sine waves have spikes and drops that can damage a motor or other delicate electrical devices.

If you're using a generator that produces dirty power, you need to ensure that it's compatible with the appliances in your home. Before plugging in, read the user manual for your RV to see what appliances can handle dirty power and what needs a cleaner source of electricity. Then, make sure that the generator produces enough wattage for all of your appliances and devices.

• You should also take into consideration the type of generator you are going to use and what kind of electrical system it has. Some generators have an automatic start-up feature that will automatically turn on when power is lost or when an outlet has been unplugged from an electrical outlet. Others may not have this feature and require that you manually turn them on in order to get it started again.
• Another thing that you will need to do is choose which type of connector that you want to use. The most common connectors are the NEMA L5-30R and the NEMA L14-30R. with those two choices, you will be able to plug almost any trailer into almost any generator.
• There are two types of circuits that you can choose from. An AC circuit, which is an alternating current, or a DC circuit, which is direct current. Both can be used for the same purpose, but the DC circuit is more efficient because it does not lose energy as heat. It does this by using a battery instead of an alternator.

Both circuits have their advantages and disadvantages, so it really depends on what your goal is. If you are going to be using your generator very often, then it might be best to go with the AC circuit because it will save you money in the long run. However, if you rarely use it, then it might make more sense to go with the DC circuit because it will not cost as much.

Where to safely place the generator?

This is quite important in order to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. Also, if you leave the generator outside, you run the risk of having it stolen.

The best solution is to carry a small tent with you where you can safely place the generator inside and fuel it up.

Make sure that there is enough ventilation for the exhaust so that it can dissipate in the air without any risks.

The safest spot to place your generator is at least 10 feet away from your trailer. You should also ensure that the generator is in an open space and not placed under a tent or canopy. The generator should be placed on a flat surface to prevent it from tipping over.

How big of a generator do I need?

The answer depends on what kind of travel trailer that you have and how many devices or appliances are connected to it at any given time. Some people may just want something small so they can run their air conditioner while others may want something large enough so they can run multiple appliances at once.

You can determine the size of the generator you need by adding up the power requirements of all the appliances and electronics you want to use.

• A laptop computer requires 65 watts
• A 19" TV requires 75 watts

What role does amperage play in generator size and power needs?

A 30 amp rating means that, at maximum, the generator can provide 30 amps to all outlets combined. These outlets include the air conditioners, lights, microwaves and so on. If you only have one air conditioner blowing at maximum capacity, it will take up most of the power but you will still have some left over for other things like lights and microwaves. The second air conditioner will then obviously take up more power and leave less to be used by other accessories.

When it comes down to the size of generator you need, it really depends on what kind of appliances you plan on running.

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Hooking up a generator to a travel trailer will usually require a Transfer Switch?

A transfer switch needs to be installed between your power source and your power box in the RV or travel trailer. This allows you to turn off the power from the grid and turn on the power from your generator.

Transfer Switch

When you go camping, there are certain conveniences that you should have. One of those is the ability to use your electrical appliances.

What Is A Transfer Switch?

A TS is an electric switch that transfers an electrical power source from its primary source to a standby source. It's the only way of connecting an external generator to your RV, and it ensures that the power generated by the generator doesn't back flow into the utility lines. Other types of transfer switches are automatic, manual and double throw switches.

Automatic transfer switches can monitor the power being produced by the utility lines. When it senses a power outage, it will automatically switch over to another power source such as a generator. This type has five main components: control circuit, sensing circuit, transfer switch, time delay relay and engine starter.

Manual transfer switches on the other hand require you operate them when switching from one power source to another. They are often used for small generators because they are less expensive than automatic transfer switches. They are also easier to install than automatic ones, which makes them ideal for small generators that don't need automatic operation.

There are different types of transfer switches

You will have the option of choosing between different types of transfer switches.

Manual Transfer Switch

A manual transfer switch offers the most affordable option for connecting your generator to your trailer. This type of transfer switch is operated manually. It usually comes with a 30-amp outlet that plugs into the generator receptacle. The outlet can be connected to an extension cord that runs outside and plugs into your trailer's power supply. This may not work if your breaker box needs 30 amps or more.

Manual transfer switches are inexpensive and portable. They are often used in small capacities because they are easy to set up and low energy.

To hook up a generator to a travel trailer, you'll need a transfer switch alongside the generator. The transfer switch will connect with your home's power box so you can use the same power source for your appliances in your travel trailer.

Make sure your generator is turned off before connecting it to the power box with the manual transfer switch. Once you have connected it, simply turn on the generator and then the manual transfer switch to supply power to your travel trailer from your generator.

Pre-Wired Transfer Switch

A pre-wired transfer switch is a small unit that connects to the electrical panel of an RV. It allows the user to hook up the generator directly without having to run multiple extension cords inside the RV and connect each device individually. This means less work and fewer worries about tripping circuit breakers or shorting out devices.

The transfer switch works by connecting two wires from the fuse box of the house and two wires from the RV electrical panel (or battery) through a switch. The switch then switches between these two inputs automatically when power goes out. A pre-wired transfer switch can be purchased online for about $100 (plus shipping).

The main advantage of this option is that it requires no special tools or expertise on your part. Just follow the instructions provided with the transfer switch and you should be good to go.

Automatic Transfer Switch

Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) is a device that can automatically transfer the power supply from the main to the generator when there is a power outage.

The ATS is connected to the electricity meter and in normal conditions, it allows the electricity to pass through the electricity meter, while it automatically disconnects the electricity meter when there is a power failure and connects it to the generator.

The ATS has two breakers: one breaker designed for connecting to a power source (electrical grid or generator) and another breaker for connecting to an electrical load (for example, a home). These two breakers are interconnected, so that when one of them is open and one of them is closed, no current will flow through the breakers (the breakers are switched off). When both of these breakers are closed, current flows through both of them.

In automatic mode, the ATS closes its main breaker when it senses that there is a voltage coming from an external source. It also closes its generator breaker if it senses that voltage from its internal generator supply has dropped below a certain threshold. In this case, current flows through both breakers (electricity passes through the electrical grid).

When it comes to RVing, there are few things more reassuring and convenient than knowing you can generate your own electricity. An RV generator can power the essentials while boondocking or let you run all of your favorite gadgets and appliances while plugged into a campground electrical hookup.

A travel trailer is a towable RV that makes up a large portion of the market. While some people think of it as a lower-class RV, there is nothing wrong with them, aside from their lack of mobility when unhooked from a truck or SUV.

When it comes to travel trailer generators, there are dozens of options out there - so many that it can be overwhelming! This article guided you through the process of picking the best generator for your travel trailer.

About Author:

Hi, I'm Kevin Pommells, a lover of camping and the great outdoors as everyone says nowadays. I'm also a passionate soccer fan and the proud owner of CamperRules.com, a website dedicated to helping campers and outdoor enthusiasts make the most of their adventures. With years of experience exploring the wilderness and a deep love for the sport of soccer, I'm always looking for new ways to combine my two passions and share my knowledge with others. Follow me for tips, tricks, and insights on all things camping and outdoor recreation.

Follow Me @ Twitter | Facebook | KevinPommells.com

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•  » How To Add a Second Battery To My RV (Wiring and Setup Guide)

How To Add a Second Battery To My RV (Wiring and Setup Guide)

• October 24, 2022 /
• RV Battery /
• By James V.

It can be done. If your RV or travel trailer needs more power, then you can get a second battery to give it a boost. The key will be to wire the batteries properly so you do not have a short . Wiring correctly is not hard to do.

All you have to do is make sure you have enough space in the battery compartment, add a new battery box to hold 2 batteries instead of one. Then wire the batteries in parallel fashion so there is no shorts or power drain. The batteries need to be the same as well.

To learn more about this option just continue to read our article. It has the information you want to know about in case you want to increase the power in your travel trailer. Take a few minutes to see how this information helps you.

Can I Add Another Battery To My RV?

This is a possibility and many RV owners have done just this. They bought two of the same batteries and hooked them up in parallel. They have not looked back since they installed the extra battery.

What the second battery does is share the load demand so your original battery does not have to work as hard. The key is to make sure the two batteries are the same age, type, and size.

If you want to connect a smaller battery then that is not going to be a good idea. It can discharge past the 50% mark quicker and also charge a lot quicker. The latter will cause an overcharge to the battery. When that happens it may boil the water away.

The current flow is to be as identical as possible between the two batteries. This enables them to age the same as well as provide the capacity you think you have by adding the second battery.

While it is possible to use an older battery, it is not recommended as you may damage the older one and not get the current flow you expected. If you are going to add a second battery, add two new ones that are exactly the same.

Should I Add a Second Battery To My RV?

The answer to this question would be do you need more power? That is the main reason why people add a second battery to their RVs or travel trailers. They usually do this for those times when they are camping without shore power.

When you add a second battery, you are not adding more amperage. That part of the electrical system remains the same. What you are adding is more voltage so you have more power to run the air conditioner when you are not connected to shore power.

Or when you want to run the microwave and another appliance at the same time. When you add the second battery, you will have to have it properly vented to make sure it does not overheat on you.

Everything you do for the original battery to keep it safe you need to do to your second battery. That will include buying a second battery box with proper attachments for ventilation and wires. Or you buy a battery box large enough to hold both batteries.

The extra power will come in handy especially with all those power features that are built-in or come with your trailer purchase. The RV makers may not add the second battery for you and it is something you have to do after you buy the trailer.

Installation is not hard but check first to make sure it won’t void your warranty.

What do You Need To Run a Second Battery?

All you need is the right wiring and have those wires connected in the proper sequence. If you are running those batteries in parallel, then you hook the second battery to positive then to the negative terminal on the original or first battery.

The negative will go to the ground. You will also need to have the second battery exactly the same as the first one. Do not add a new one and then attach it to the older original battery. This will cause some problems.

It is best to buy 2 new batteries that are the same and wire them in correctly. That is all there is to it. You get more power when you need it. It can’t be stressed enough that the batteries have to be the same age, model, type and so on.

What that means is you will want 2 12-volt batteries or 2 6-volt ones in the series. Plus, they need to be of the same group, amperage and size. If these factors are different you may see damage done to one or both of the batteries in a short time.

How To Add a Second Battery To My RV

There will be a couple of methods you can use and if you are not experienced in electrical processes, you should ask for help from an expert. We say that as one RV owner said to hook the positive of the second battery to the negative of the original, then the negative of the second battery goes to ground.

Another expert said to hook the positive of the second battery to the original battery’s positive terminal and the negative to the negative terminal of the original battery.

Both ways are okay to use and your expert will tell you why both can be used. When you get ready to do this task, make sure your travel trailer has room for a second battery. It is a common mistake not to check first.

When you go to do the wiring, make sure all the connections and cables are clean and rust or corrosion free. When you add the second battery, it is like adding the first one. You just put the wires where they need to go to make the system work. There are no secret tricks to employ or know about.

Adding a Second RV Battery

The first step in his process is to analyze your camping situation. You may have a generator for those times you do not have shore power or there is a black out. However, generators can be noisy and create enemies when turned on.

If you camp at campgrounds that always have shore power, then you probably will not need an extra battery. But if you camp where there is no shore power, then you probably will need an extra battery especially when you can’t use your generator.

Once you decide that5 you need that extra power, then look at your current battery. Even if it is a few months old, you should get 2 new batteries from the same group, with the same power and so on.

Connecting old with new batteries is not the best way to get that extra power and you will end up buying 2 new batteries eventually. Always try to get the same age, type and group batteries.

Dual RV Battery Setup

This is not going to be a problem as all you are dong is connecting one battery to the next one. It is a simple matter of hooking the power cables to the right terminals. As we said earlier, there are 2 methods you can use.

What some RV and travel trailer owners have done is to replace their standar4d 12-volt battery with 2- 6 volt models. The reason they do this is because the latter batteries usually are cheaper and they provide more amp hours than standard 12-volt batteries.

The best 6-volt battery provides over 300 amp hours of service while one of the largest 12-volt batteries only provides about 250 amp hours. If this is important to you, check your options before you buy.

To wire those batteries , you need to be careful. You will want to move the negative cable first to prevent and shorting of the system. To help you get those batteries wired right, go to this link .

The article there provides very detailed instructions, diagrams and other information we cannot put in this little section.

How To Wire 2 Batteries On a Travel Trailer

When you want the batteries to be in parallel with each other, you connect the positive terminal of the second battery to the positive terminal of the first battery. Then you connect the negative terminals together in the same way.

The second battery’s negative terminal is then connected to the ground. This is one way that we have described above. The second way we mentioned earlier is in series and it goes like this:

Connect the second battery’s positive terminal to the negative terminal of the first battery. Then the second battery’s negative terminal is connected to ground. That is all there is to this process.

If you are not comfortable with working with electricity, even with batteries, then get a professional to help you. You want to make sure the connections are done right so you do not have a problem when you are on the road.

People do try to find alternatives as one owner received this answer when he asked about using a battery that was not quite 6 months old: “. If the battery was left on the charger and remained charged, while also being continuously charged from its self-discharge, then the battery cells would’ve been continuously stimulated and have most likely degraded a bit. I would estimate that you’d run into issues within the first two years of use with a second battery.”

While using an older battery will save you money, you have to think about degradation in the cells before you make the connections.

Adding a Third Battery To My RV

Some RV owners have done this as they found that two batteries was not enough power when they camper without shore power. As you will see by the wiring diagrams in the next section, the wiring is not any different than if you are connecting 2 batteries together.

The first step is to buy a large enough battery box. One at an RV dealer, etc., can run you over $100 but you can use a normal plastic bin to do the same thing. That bin may cost you under $10.

If you go the bin route, you will have to carefully drill some vent holes. Those vent holes will have to be large enough to hold PVC tubing. Then drill large enough holes in the lid for PVC tubing and to allow for airflow.

Next, you will need to drill some smaller holes for those positive and negative cables to reach where they are to be connected. You do not need holes for the cables going from batteries #3 to #2, and #2 to #1.

Some people put foam around the edge of the bin to cut down on vibration, etc. Once you are done with the holes, make your connections and put the lid on.

Dual RV Battery Wiring Diagram

Here are diagrams for 2 and more batteries in parallel and in series for you to look at. The first one will be for 2 batteries connected together.

The second diagram gives you a more complicated diagram and has more batteries than three but you should get the idea of how to hook them up.

Pay close attention to the second diagram as it shows the wiring for 6-volt batteries.

Some Final Words

Getting extra power is not that hard, nor is it that expensive. All you need are two batteries that are the same and connect them in the right way way. You can decide if you want 6-volt batteries or 12-volt options.

Just pick the one that is right for your camping situation. Then follow the diagrams and instructions on how to set them up and connect them. There is no shame if you do not like working with electricity. Just hire someone who is competent and knows what they are doing.

There should be room in your travel trailer for at least 2 batteries.

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• Find a Location

Baby Steps to Boondocking: Tips for Beginner RV Boondockers

Let’s go through some tips to help you get comfortable with RV boondocking for beginners little by little. In no time, you’ll be ready to camp off-grid in your new or used motorhome , whether that’s nestled among mountains or following your favorite college football team around the country.

1. Check the Weather

Avoid boondocking for the first time in frigid or sweltering conditions. Extreme weather just complicates matters. If it’s sticky and hot you’re going to need to rely on your AC to stay comfortable. Being mindful of your power consumption is key to RV boondocking for beginners. Needing to run your AC adds an extra challenge you don’t need when you’re learning. Likewise, if it’s cold, you need to run your furnace. Although your furnace likely runs on LP, the fan draws power. When you’re first learning about power consumption , this rookie mistake could put you in a position where you wake up to find your battery is drained.

Try boondocking for the first time in temperatures where the highs are in the 70s and the lows don’t dip below the 50s. In this weather, you won’t need temperature control to keep you comfortable. Of course, you can boondock in other weather conditions, it’s just not as easy and may require a generator . Stack the odds in your favor when you’re starting out by learning to boondock in mild weather.

2. Cover Your RV Basics

Before setting out on your first boondocking adventure be sure to check off some RV basics. Fill your freshwater tank. Empty your gray and black water tanks. Refill your propane and make sure your batteries are fully charged. If you’re in a towable travel trailer, pack your portable generator. Many motorized RVs will have an onboard generator, but not always. Make sure you know how to operate it (it may need to be primed if you’re in a high altitude, like the Rockies).

Last, be sure to stock your fridge and pack some extra drinking water. Yes, you can drink water being pumped from your freshwater tank, but packing drinking water will leave room for error. If you find you underestimated how much water you use for dishes or showers, you can always switch to drinking and cooking with the extra water you packed.

3. Plan a Partial Hook-Up Stay

Why cut all your hook-ups at once? Try starting out by camping with just partial hook-ups at a campground. If you’re used to full hook-ups with sewer, try going without the sewer hook-up at first. After that, try camping at a campground that offers just one hook-up. A state park might offer electric-only, but make water available at spigots located throughout the campground. You can practice your water management without having to worry about your power too.

4. Boondock With a Built-In Back-Up Plan

What better way to learn than with a safety net? Try a short, two to three-day boondocking stay at any of these sites.

Campsites with Hook-Ups

Wait. A campsite  with hookups? Yes. A great way to practice is to camp at a campsite with hook-ups without actually hooking up your RV. This is a great way to practice because you have the hook-ups there if you need them. You can even extend the stay to five or seven days, and closely monitor your power and water consumption per day or week. You may find you can boondock for longer than you thought.

Friends’ and Family’s Driveways

A friend or relative’s driveway, or even your own, is a great place to practice RV boondocking. You are able to practice camping without hook-ups, but should anything not turn out right, there is a house nearby for modern conveniences. At the least, you could hook up to a house’s power or water to charge up or refill your tank if you needed to.

RV shows are a great place to begin dry camping if they allow onsite camping. Many RV shows do allow onsite camping but without any hook-ups. You’ll be camping with other RV enthusiasts who are also boondocking for the weekend. That being the case, there’s plenty of help should you need it. You may also be able to pick up some tips from your fellow RVers.

Sporting Events

You may only want to become proficient at boondocking to attend your favorite sporting events, like tailgating at football games or NASCAR races . If that’s the case they’re great for practice (barring poor weather) as they make for a nice short stay. Like an RV show, you’ll be among fellow RVers who are also boondocking, so help isn’t too far away should you need it.

Some casinos will allow RVers to park overnight, as long as they spend money inside the casino. This can be a fun way to practice! At just one night, you’re not pushing your limits. And, should you change your mind, or find yourself unprepared, you can always book a room instead.

5. Wallydock

Some RVers refer to boondocking at Walmart as “Wallydocking.” If you travel long distances in your RV, chances are high you’ll be spending the night at a Walmart at some point along your travels. Walmart parking lots make a good place to practice your overnight boondocking. Always check with a manager before setting your RV up for an overnight stay. Wallydocking is an approachable form of boondocking because if you forget anything, there are supplies or a bathroom inside. If you’re at one along a popular travel route, like the Walmart in Page, AZ, you’ll also be surrounded by fellow RVers doing the same thing.

6. Boondock at a USFS or NPS campground

U.S. Forest Service (USFS) campgrounds will often offer the opportunity to camp with more privacy and more nature. The catch?–there aren’t always hook-ups. Plan a short 2–3 day stay to practice. Some of the USFS campgrounds are developed and have a camp host, which are ideal to start off your boondocking experience. The same is true of National Park Service (NPS) campgrounds. Some don’t have hook-ups so you can practice your boondocking in beautiful surrounds. Most likely, there will be other RVers there boondocking too giving you a chance to see a wide-range of RVs from bigger Class As to smaller Happier Campers .

7. Boondock on BLM Land

Once you feel you have the hang of it, boondock on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) property. BLM land offers the opportunity to have complete privacy, depending on where you are. You can plan a lovely escape surrounded by nature and nothing else. Once you’re comfortable with longer stays you can also set up base camp for other activities you might enjoy like backpacking, fishing , or mountain biking. The possibilities at this point are nearly endless.

As far as longer stays go, great places to gain more confidence are Moab, Sedona, and Flagstaff. Boondocking in these areas is popular because the weather can be mild at different times of the year, and you’ll certainly run into other RVers which may give you some comfort as a beginner.

Boondocking can be a very rewarding RV experience. Overnight boondocking is also a regular part of RVing, especially if you RV across long distances on extended road trips in your new or used travel trailer .

Have any good boondocking tips? Leave a comment below!

• Comment (6)

I want to find a chunk of land where my family can stretch out and not be cramped at a campground. We would like to stay within 100 mile radius of Elgin, Illinois. Please let me know if you can help find some spots.

I remember boondocking for the first time. It was scarey and exciting all at once. When we made it through to the next day it was a sense of accomplishment. We boondocked mostly when traveling one place to another. We full timed two and a half years. We went all over the US. Now we are in an apartment staying by our moms to help, but we long for the road. I can see it in our future.

my gosh this is awesome information thanks!!

Gerald, it really depends on how much space you’re looking for to “stretch out.”

I left California permanently as a full time RVer June 28, 2021. I’ve stayed only one night in a campground… and that was to learn HOW to use my shorepower! Hahaha! I LOVE boondocking. Don’t be afraid; if you have A/C to cool down in the heat and heavy clothes or a furnace to warm up in the cold, the weather won’t be much of an issue. I traveled the 10 across to AZ, NM, and TX, went up through OK, AR to MO, back to Cali along the 40, and now am traveling Route 66. Travel Stops are a newbie boondocker’s best friend. I prefer Love’s because many have small dog parks; but Pilot, TA, 66… there all great. If your battery dies, you can turn on your generator pretty much without bothering anyone. If you run out of food, you can go inside, they’re open 24/7. If you want a great shower, it’s only $13ish; and many of them now have laundry facilities on site. RVs can park back with the truckers, but I’m in a 24foot Class C and generally park in the auto lot; sometimes they have stalls marked for RVs. Love’s has an app, so does Pilot; the apps are helpful. Rest Areas are great. Some have vending machines, most have restrooms; they often have picnic areas — and out here the tables are generally under a lientu for shade. Since rest areas are used by truckers, you can usually run your generator if you need to and it won’t bother anyone. Of course parking with truckers means noise — they have reefers that need to run all night, and most run their engines all night to keep their diesel fuel warm. Boondocking is free on national land – so BLM land and National Forests. You can download a Motor Vehicle Use Map (MVUM) from the National Forest webpage (each forests has their own webpage and map) These are the only updated maps that SHOW boondocking sites. It’s a learning curve on how to read them, but you’ll figure it out. MVUM’s are a boondockers lifeline; an absolute must have. Boondockersbible.com lists a few sites in a few states; I’m using it when I can. Plus, they give you the rules on state rest areas which is nice. I’m in Arkansas right now… HUGE rest area, three separate grass areas for my dogs, each about 300 yards long; dogs must be leashed but at least there’s nice areas to walk them. Rest areas are bigger and nicer than in Cali, like along the 5. RVdump.com will show you where to empty your tanks; and lists several places that are free. TX even has some rest areas with free dump stations (one is just below Dallas). The Midwest is very RV friendly. My generator is linked directly to my coach/van, so I run it a couple hours in the morning if I need to charge my laptop, and a couple of hours at night if I want to watch a movie. I only have one battery for the coach – so I need to charge it in the morning then top it off before bed so it will last throughout the night for my fridge (which runs on propane but still uses battery power.) I have a 12 gallon propane tank, and the most it’s ever been down was 2/3s after 10 days in the Coconino National Forest outside of Flagstaff (beautiful boondocking, and free!) Never let anyone try to fill your propane tank more than 80% full; I’ve been told they can explode if overfilled (from the gas expanding when it’s hot.) First piece of advice I was given – The grey water tank will fill up WAY faster than the black tank; so go easy on it. If you wash dishes in a dishpan, consider emptying the water down the toilet instead of down the sink; or use the water to wash the bugs off your vehicle’s front grill. If you are able (summer, mostly) use a sun shower outside. My first set of rules for myself – 1) It’s just as easy to fill the top half of the gas tank as it is to fill the bottom. .. Keep ‘er full. 2) Walk the rig before driving off… awning rolled in, storage doors closed and locked, gas cap on, water cap on, shorepower cord and waterline disconnected and put away (if you’ve been using them.) 3) Try never to put NonPotable water in your fresh water tank (if you must, add a teaspoon of bleach.) Good Luck! Hope I’ve given you some tools to get started with. It’s a learning curve, but not hard. It just takes practice.

Regina Hi. I love the idea of RVing/camping and traveling across the country. My wife and I are retired and basically have the time and means to travel in our trailer but our BIG question/concern is when and which direction. We live in Southern California and are very concern about the horrible weather, hurricanes in the east and northeast and now fires in the west. Do you have any specific plan or direction when RVing through the country? Any help from you will be very welcome. Thank you.

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