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South Korea with Alexander Armstrong

South Korea is a nation of contrasts. It’s smaller than many states but can feel like another planet. Alexander Armstrong is getting to the heart of what makes the nation tick is in this engrossing travel documentary. Gangnam Style, Squid Games, K-Pop; South Korea is one of those places that’s always somewhere in our consciousness, but most people know little about this extraordinary country.

Watch South Korea with Alexander Armstrong and more acclaimed documentaries on BBC Select today. Restrictions apply*.

South Korea with Alexander Armstrong on BBC Select

Ep 1 Alexander Armstrong kicks off his Korean adventure with a little Gangnam Style. The fabled district of Gangnam is immortalized by Psy’s Gangnam Style video, one of the most viewed songs on YouTube. Alexander Armstrong decides to kick off his epic Korean adventure in the area, as he attempts to discover the true South Korea. He then meets other internet stars helping to keep Korea on the global map including a record breaking ‘bulk-eater’ who joins Alexander for noodles.

EP 2 How will Alexander do as he attempts to play a version of Squid Game in South Korea? The international TV hit Squid Game has taken the world by storm. As his Korean adventure continues, Alexander Armstrong goes in search of the show’s origins and even plays a non-fatal, version of the game. He also visits the awesome Gyeonbokgung Palace, picks something up at the vast Yangnyeongsi herbal market, and explores the importance of wearing jaunty socks.

Ep 3 Alexander struggles with some South Korean seafood that’s trying to escape his plate! Let’s hope Alexander Armstrong has a strong stomach, as he concludes his South Korean adventure at the seaport of Busan. There he enjoys a variety of unusual seafood, including some items that are still wriggling on his plate! He also visit s a shaman for a slightly strange insomnia cure and hopes to climb up the spellbinding Sunrise Peak. If he can avoid the area’s wild dogs.

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18 things to know before going to South Korea

Jun 18, 2024 • 13 min read

South Korea’s public-transport choices – including Busan’s Sky Capsule – are the envy of the world. As you plan your trip, count on using the nationwide network © By f11photo / Shutterstock

Has any place been on a run of late like  South Korea ?

The country is on the lips of travelers around the world, thanks to its cutting-edge technology, world-class cuisine , chart-topping pop bands and some of the most exciting movies and TV series being made anywhere. 

Add to all this centuries of tradition and copious natural blessings , all in a country scarcely larger than Ireland, and you’ve got one of the planet’s great travel destinations .

Safe, friendly and possessing superb infrastructure , South Korea is a truly easy – not to mention rewarding – place to explore. Read on for tips to make your visit even easier.

1. Complete your pre-trip registration three days before your flight

Most travelers – including citizens of the US, Australia and the UK – can visit South Korea visa-free for up to 90 days (up to six months for Canadians). You’ll still need to apply for a Korea Electronic Travel Authorization on the K-ETA website , however, at least 72 hours before departure. It’s a simple process, and your K-ETA is valid for two years from the date of approval.

2. Know your accommodation options

Accommodation options in South Korea cater to a wide range of preferences and budgets. Budget travelers can opt for backpacker hostels or guesthouses in major cities and tourist spots, offering both dormitory and private rooms, often with free internet and breakfast included. For those seeking a unique experience, hanok guesthouses provide a traditional stay in Korean-style room with a floor mattress, sometimes with communal bathrooms.

More conventional accommodations include hotels, ranging from business to luxury, particularly in urban centers and popular tourist areas like Jeju-do . Adventurous travelers might enjoy glamping near national parks or coastal areas. Alternatively, a templestay offers a cultural and spiritual experience, allowing guests to live like a monk and learn about Buddhist practices in some of the country's most serene settings.

3. Time your visit with the trees

We recommend planning your visit to South Korea for spring or fall , when the peninsula gets its most temperate weather. Bonus points if you can time it to coincide with one of the country’s two periods of arboreal magic. Korea’s cherry blossoms start blooming in mid-March on Jeju-do Island , off the south coast, and typically appear in Seoul in early April. In late October and early November, the leaves of Korea’s many ancient ginkgo trees turn into brilliant golden torches, giving Seoul and other cities a particularly regal look for several weeks.

4. Mind these two major holidays

The two periods that can cause travelers real problems are the multi-day Lunar New Year and Chuseok (fall harvest) holidays. On these two occasions every year, Koreans hit the road en masse, making booking a bus or train ticket nearly impossible. The dates change each year, so be sure to check when these are before making travel plans. 

If you can’t avoid a holiday, base yourself in Seoul or Busan for its duration. Plenty of businesses stay open, and the cities can be surprisingly peaceful with everyone out of town.

5. Take advantage of Korea’s world-class public transportation

Korea’s subways, trains and buses are clean, convenient and efficient . It can sometimes seem like a new station is added to the Seoul metro every month, and the rail and intercity bus networks will take you to every corner of the country. Public transportation is cheap: bus and subway fares in Seoul start at just ₩1250. In all of South Korea, Jeju-do is the only place where renting a car might make sense, and even there it’s probably not necessary.

With plentiful English information and sensible design, public transportation in Korea makes getting from here to there a breeze. To get moving, start by picking up a T-money transit card at a convenience store or from a vending machine in any subway station. Separate kiosks can be used to load money onto your card. Tap your card both when you board and get off the subway or bus. Fares are calculated by distance, so if you forget to tap when disembarking, you’ll be charged more and won’t be able to transfer for free. You can also use T-money cards in most taxis.

When traveling longer distances, it’s simple enough to just buy intercity bus or train tickets at stations. For the high-speed KTX train and some of the more popular routes and times – departing Seoul on Saturday morning, for example – it’s a good idea to purchase in advance. Bus tickets are typically readily available for purchase from machines and counters in bus stations. Buy train tickets on the website of  KORAIL , the national operator.

6. Stay connected with these essential apps

Wi-fi is so prevalent in Korean cities that you can do without a local SIM card, but if you decide that you want one just in case, or if you plan to head to rural areas, the easiest place to pick one up is at one of the many  telecom roaming centers at Incheon Airport upon arrival. If you can't be bothered to get one in a store, you can buy a Korean eSIM if your phone supports it. Phone rental is also available in Korea.

Helpful apps to download include Naver Map ( iOS and Android ), which works better than Google Maps in South Korea; Subway Korea ( iOS and Android ) for navigating cities’ metro systems; and Kakao T ( iOS and Android ), which is like Uber but for taxis.

7. Get out of town

There are two Koreas. We don’t mean North and South, but rather Seoul and everything else – or, a bit more broadly, urban Korea and rural Korea. The country has a reputation for being a hyper-paced, highly wired pop-culture dynamo, but its hinterlands present a much different picture, and you’d be missing out big time if you skip them. 

The Korean countryside is beautiful. Mountains and rivers make for beautiful vistas , and its well-maintained roads are perfect for road trips . Life is lived differently here than in the cities. The population is older – most people under 40 have decamped to the cities – and the pace is slower. At least once on your trip, get out of the cities and immerse yourself in this more traditional side of Korea.

8. Learn your ga , na , da , ra , ma , bas

Basic English is widely understood in Korea by folks under 50, and signage is almost always in both Korean and English. Yet it’s still a good (and respectful) idea to learn a bit of the language. 

Beyond memorizing a few essential Korean words and phrases, learning hangul, the Korean alphabet, is like gaining access to a secret bonus level of Korean travel. If you can sound out the letters, you’ll find that you already know what things like 카페 모카 ( ka-pe mo-ka , or cafe mocha), 비빔밥 (bibimbap, a popular Korean dish) and 사우나 ( sa-oo-na, or sauna) are. 

Hangul is easy to learn. King Sejong the Great, who oversaw its creation in the 15th century, declared that a wise man could pick it up before noon and even an idiot could learn it in 10 days.  Let’s Learn Hangul  teaches the Korean alphabet in an interactive, easy-to-follow way.

9. Roll with the nudges

Koreans live life in a hurry, and they do so in a densely populated country, so you shouldn’t expect the same sense of personal space or public courtesies you find in your home country. Koreans won’t hold doors open for you or apologize if they bump into you when walking. When getting on or off the subway, they likely won’t say, “Excuse me” – they’ll just nudge you aside. They’re not being rude, though. 

When you live in a city as crowded as Seoul, it’s just not practical to say sorry every time you knock shoulders with someone – you’d be apologizing constantly. This can be maddening to outsiders, but just accept it and roll with the nudges.

10. Be ready to get personal

The typical greeting here is a quick bow – nothing dramatic, just a head nod deep enough for your gaze to meet the floor – but you’ll sometimes be offered a handshake instead. If you are, expect more of a gentle clasp than the old squeeze-and-pump.

You’ll likely be asked questions more personal than you’re accustomed to by someone you just met. At the top of this list is your age. This data point is essential to Koreans, as it informs how they talk to one another: how formal their verb endings should be and whether to use honorifics. Inquiries about marital status, occupation and your opinion of Korea are also common. Answer politely, and feel free to return the question.

11. Wear what you like, but don’t pack anything too risqué

As a traveler, you can feel free to dress for the weather and comfort. Koreans are pretty relaxed about attire, even if they’re more modest than you might expect. If visiting a temple , while shorts are fine, tank tops and miniskirts are not. Both men and women frequently wear t-shirts at the beach (though it’s best to leave the Speedo or thong at home). Korean women almost never wear low-cut tops, and female travelers could find that doing so brings unwelcome looks. Tattoos are now common among young people, yet even still some bathhouses will deny entry if you show any ink.

12. Eat with others and don’t be afraid to shout for service

Eating is a communal activity in Korea, and many restaurants, especially barbecue joints, don’t offer single servings. So if you’re traveling solo, you might either have to drag someone from your hostel along with you (not a tough sell) or loosen your belt and order pork belly for two (you poor thing).

At restaurants, servers won’t come check up on you, and most places have call buttons on each table. Give it a push, and someone will be right over. Otherwise, to grab the waitstaff’s attention, raise your hand and shout, “ Yogiyo !” (“Over here!”). Water is usually self-service, and occasionally side dishes are, too. If your server doesn’t set a bottle of water on your table, look around for a water dispenser and stacks of metal cups. At the end of your meal, take the check to the front counter to pay. There’s no tipping. Some traditional restaurants where patrons sit on the floor might require you to remove your shoes before entering.

More restaurant etiquette

• Chopsticks Don't stick your chopsticks upright in a bowl of rice or pass food from one pair of chopsticks to another.
• Eating with fingers Don’t touch food with your fingers, except when handling ssam (lettuce leaves).
• Filling your own glass (alcohol) Dining companions usually pour drinks for each other – traditionally, never for themselves. It’s polite to use both hands when pouring or receiving a drink.

13. Get to know Korean drinking culture

The practice of hoesik – a gathering of people, often work colleagues, to go eat and drink together – is common. Drinking, and drinking heavily, is the mainstay of Korean socializing, and an evening out can quickly turn into a blur of bar-hopping.

The most common drink of choice is soju . The stuff is, more often than not, ethanol mixed with water and flavoring. Drinking too much of it can leave you with a killer hangover. Be especially careful about the infamous ' soju bombs', when a shot glass of soju is dropped into a glass of beer and the two are drunk together.

Helping soak up some of that alcohol will be anju (bar snacks; obligatory in some bars). These are likely to be heaped plates of oil-soaked food – French fries, vegetable twigim (fritters) or fried chicken. There's even a word for such a combo: chimaek, from Korean chikin (fried chicken) and maekju (beer).

As in other countries, there's a changing attitude to excessive alcohol consumption particularly among young people. An evening spent in a fancy coffee shop or bakery cafe is the norm for non-alcohol drinkers, while those who are looking for cheap drinks, hang out at convenience stores, some of which provide tables for customers to sit down to immediately eat and drink their purchases.

14. Is North Korea a concern?

Despite international headlines, South Koreans don’t worry about an attack from  North Korea  – and neither should you. Military clashes are very rare, and danger to civilians is rarer still. A guided tour to the  DMZ can be a fascinating and truly find-it-nowhere-else experience. From afar, North Korea can seem almost comical in its eccentricities, but when you’re looking at South Korean soldiers looking at North Korean soldiers looking at you, the geopolitical stakes hit different. Plus, many tours offer what may be your only chance to actually step foot in the world’s most secretive country.

15. Monitor the air quality

Even in post-pandemic times, it’s a good idea to always carry a mask, as air quality can occasionally drop to pretty nasty levels. This is especially true in spring, when dust blown off the deserts of Mongolia and northern China combines with local pollution to create unhealthy air. Download an app like IQAir Air Visual (for iOS or Android ) to keep track of current conditions and the upcoming forecast across the country.

16. You might have to be flexible about your diet

If you have food allergies or a specific diet, you may have a hard time finding places to eat or getting clear information about ingredients. Vegetarianism and veganism are slowly gaining popularity in Korea, but not many restaurants cater to these diets. Even dishes that you might think are vegetarian are often made with anchovy broth or fermented shrimp. Common dishes that are vegetarian or vegan include bibimbap (without meat), japchae (sweet potato noodles) and chaeso jeon (vegetable pancake). Buddhist temples often serve vegan food. In Seoul,  Bongeun-sa temple serves a vegetarian lunch, and Balwoo Gongyang and Sanchon are restaurants specializing in vegetarian temple food.

17. Recognize that LGBTIQ+ acceptance still has a long way to go 

While attitudes are slowly changing, Korea remains a conservative society in many respects, and anti-LGBTIQ+ prejudice is common. Even so, LGBTIQ+ travelers are more likely to be on the receiving end of curious – if misinformed – questions than any sort of open hostility. Public displays of affection are generally frowned upon (though this goes for straight couples, too).

Seoul has small gay districts in Itaweon and Jongno-3-ga, while the Hongdae-Sinchon-Ewha university corridor is another place where LGBTIQ+ Koreans feel comfortable being themselves. 

18. Use common sense and keep these numbers handy, just in case

Theft and violent crime are rare in South Korea. Scams and pickpockets targeting travelers are virtually nonexistent, and Koreans typically go out of their way to be hospitable to visitors. Nonetheless – as anyone should anywhere – do exercise basic caution and common sense. South Korea has strict drug laws, and don’t even think about trying to sneak past them. Nightlife often revolves around heavy drinking, so know your limit to avoid putting yourself in a sketchy situation.

If you do have an emergency, call 112 to reach the police, 119 for emergency services or 1330 to reach the Korea Travel Hotline, where an operator will connect you to the appropriate service and serve as an interpreter. That number can also be used to reach the Korea Tourist Police.

This article was first published Jul 16, 2022 and updated Jun 18, 2024.

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Watch CBS News

North Korea reportedly to reopen border city to tourists after 5 years

By Lucia Suarez Sang

August 16, 2024 / 9:11 AM EDT / CBS News

Tourists will soon be able to travel once more to North Korea.

According to two Chinese-based tour operators, the Hermit Kingdom will soon reopen one city to foreign tourists after nearly five years of border closures due to the COVID-19 pandemic . Visitors will be allowed to travel to the northern mountainous city of Samjiyon starting in December, CBS News partner BBC News reported.

North Korea sealed itself off from the world at the start of the pandemic in early 2020 and began scaling back its restrictions in the middle of 2023.

"So far just Samjiyon has been officially confirmed but we think that Pyongyang and other places will open too!!!" Shenyang's KTG Tours wrote on Facebook on Wednesday.

In a subsequent post outlining more details, KTG Tours said the borders are set to open this winter, "presumably December," but the exact dates have not been confirmed. It also said there has been no official confirmation for other cities across North Korea.

"Having waited for over four years to make this announcement, Koryo Tours is very excited for the opening of North Korean tourism once again," that company said on its website .

Koryo Tours told the BBC that North Korean officials have allowed tourists from any country except South Korea to join the trips they offer. The United States bans its citizens from traveling to North Korea.

International flights in and out of North Korea resumed last year and a small group of Russian tourists flew to North Korea for a private tour in February, Reuters reported. Top foreign officials, including Russian President Vladimir Putin in June, have also been visiting the country amid warming ties between the two nations.

North Korea is said to be building what it called a "socialist utopia" in Samjiyon, a city near the Chinese border, that will include "a model of highly-civilized mountain city" with new apartments, hotels, a ski resort and commercial, cultural and medical facilities, Reuters reported.

In July, North Korean leader Kim Jong Un sacked or demoted some senior officials for their so-called "irresponsible" handling of his flagship project, state media KCNA reported at the time. Kim said senior officials' irresponsibility caused serious deviations, including poor construction work and financial losses, Reuters  reported.

Chad O'Carroll, CEO of the U.S.-based analysis firm Korea Risk Group, told the BBC this week that there are doubts about the reopening announcement.

"I will believe it when I see it," he said. "For now, I am quite skeptical we will see any real movement in December."

• North Korea

Lucia Suarez Sang is an associate managing editor at CBSNews.com. Previously, Lucia was the director of digital content at FOX61 News in Connecticut and has previously written for outlets including FoxNews.com, Fox News Latino and the Rutland Herald.

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South Korea

Travel Advisory July 24, 2023

South korea - level 1: exercise normal precautions.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed.

Exercise normal precautions in South Korea.

Read the  country information page  for additional information on travel to South Korea.

If you decide to travel to South Korea:

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.   
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• Review the  Country Security Report  for South Korea.   
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188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul 03141, Korea Telephone: +(82) (2) 397-4114 (from within Korea, dial 02-397-4114)  DSN:721-4114 Fax: +(82) (2) 397-4101 Email:  [email protected]

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The Embassy and Consulate are closed on weekends and on  American and Korean holidays .  Emergency After-Hours Telephone: +82 (2) 397-4114.

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Entry, Exit and Visa Requirements

• You must have a valid U.S. passport to enter Korea. From April 1, 2023, to December 31, 2024, the  Korean Electronic Travel Authorization (K-ETA)  is not required for US citizens for stays of 90 days or less that are for tourism or business purposes.
• Visa required for all other purposes, including employment, teaching English, and for stays longer than 90 days.

Exceeding your authorized stay or not possessing a valid visa may result in detention and fines.

• In the event of an overstay, apply for a visa extension from the  Korea Immigration Service (KIS)  before attempting to leave the country. Also consult with KIS regarding changes in visa category.

Military Personnel/DOD and their families on orders:

• Consult  DOD Foreign Clearance Guide , and follow all instructions.
• Enter Korea with DOD identification and travel orders.
• Do not transit other countries such as China without a passport and appropriate visas.
• Family Members/Dependents of Military Personnel/DOD on orders must present upon arrival passports valid for at least six months .

U.S. Government Executive Branch personnel on official business and DOD personnel assigned to the U.S. Embassy  (Including family members/dependents):

• Employes assigned to Mission Korea should enter Korea with a diplomatic or official passport and a diplomatic or official Korean visa obtained through their sponsoring agency.  Check with your sponsoring agency about other requirements. 
• TDY visitors traveling to Korea for up to 90 days on diplomatic or official passports do  not  require Korean visas and do  not  require a K-ETA. TDY visitors must obtain country clearance using  Department of State's eCC system  or  DOD APACS system .

HIV/AIDS Restriction:  The Department of State is unaware of any such entry restrictions for visitors or foreign residents in Korea.

• Visit the  Embassy of Korea  website for current visa information. Please read our  Customs Information page .

COVID-19 Requirements :

• There are no COVID-related entry requirements for U.S. citizens.
• Travel regulations and restrictions are subject to change, sometimes with little notice. You should review the information available on your nearest Korean Embassy or Consulate’s webpage before traveling.

Safety and Security

Public Demonstrations:  Demonstrations and rallies are common in South Korea, particularly near the U.S. Embassy, Seoul City Hall, and areas surrounding military installations. You should avoid areas where demonstrations are taking place and exercise caution in the vicinity of any large gatherings, protests, or rallies. Even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and escalate into violence.

North Korea (The Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, DPRK):  An armistice agreement, monitored by the United Nations, has maintained general peace on the Korean peninsula since 1953. Tensions occasionally flare up because of provocative acts by North Korea, including ballistic missile and nuclear tests and limited armed incursions into ROK-held territory. Some provocations have escalated into geographically limited skirmishes. South Korea routinely conducts military training exercises and civil defense drills. North Korea often issues strongly-worded and threatening messages, frequently in connection with these exercises. Please see our  Fact Sheet on North Korea .

Weather-related Events:  Heavy rains and flooding may occur during the June - August monsoon season or the May - November typhoon season. See general information about natural disaster preparedness at the U.S.  Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)  website.

Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program  ( STEP ):  To receive security messages by email and make it easier to locate you in an emergency, register in STEP. 

If the Embassy becomes aware of any specific and credible threat to the safety and security of U.S. citizens, we will inform you through our website, social media, and email.

Crime:  For most visitors, South Korea remains a very safe country. Common crimes occur more frequently in major metropolitan areas, tourist sites, and crowded markets.

• Take routine safety precautions.
• Pay attention to your surroundings.
• Report any concerns to local police.

Violent crime is not common; however, remain vigilant:

• Exercise caution in crowded entertainment, nightlife, and shopping districts.
• If traveling at night, consider traveling in groups.
• Use legitimate taxis or public transportation only.

Victims of Crime:  Call 112 for emergency assistance or to report a crime to local authorities. Call 02-397-4114 to contact the U.S. Embassy. We can:

• Help you find appropriate medical care;
• Assist you in reporting a crime to police;
• Contact relatives or friends on your behalf;
• Explain Korean judicial procedures in general terms;
• Provide an emergency loan for repatriation to the United States and/or limited medical support in cases of destitution;
• Help you find accommodations and flight arrangements to the United States;
• Replace a lost or stolen passport.

Sexual Assault:   The Embassy regularly receives reports of sexual assault from U.S. citizens. Most cases involved young women assaulted by acquaintances they met on social media, dating, or messaging apps. Alcohol is often involved, and Korea’s low overall crime can create a false sense of security.  Specialized hospital units and police are available in South Korea to assist victims, however services in English and responsiveness to the crime are not always consistent. In general, sex crimes are not punished as harshly in South Korea as in the United States and the road to prosecution is a challenging one for victims.

Domestic Violence:  Victim’s assistance resources or battered women’s shelters exist in Seoul and other urban areas but may be limited in rural areas. Most are government administered and require a police referral. Call 112 for emergency assistance or 1366 to reach Korea’s 24-hour domestic violence hotline. Victims may also contact the Embassy, tel. (+82) 2-397-4114.

Lost or Stolen Passports:  If your passport is stolen, file a report at the nearest police station.

Don't buy counterfeit and pirated goods, even if widely available.  It is against South Korean law to purchase these goods and against U.S. law to bring them into the United States. The  Computer Crime and Intellectual Property Division in the U.S. Department of Justice  has more information.

Avoid fraud and scams:  See  Department of State  and  FBI  websites for more information.

Tourism:  The tourism industry is generally regulated and rules with regard to best practices and safety inspections are regularly enforced. Hazardous areas/activities are identified with appropriate signage and professional staff is typically on hand in support of organized activities. In the event of an injury, appropriate medical treatment is widely available throughout the country. Outside of a major metropolitan center, it may take more time for first responders and medical professionals to stabilize a patient and provide life-saving assistance. U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance. See our webpage for more information on  insurance providers for overseas coverage .

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Criminal Penalties:  While in Korea, you are subject to local laws. If you violate Korean laws, you may be expelled, arrested, or imprisoned. Be aware that:

• Immigration violations can lead to arrest, fines, and deportation.
• There is little tolerance for illegal drugs.
• If you mail illegal drugs to/ from Korea, you will be prosecuted.
• Commercial disputes may lead to criminal charges being filed under local laws.

Be aware that some crimes are prosecutable in the United States, regardless of local law. For examples, see our website on  crimes against minors abroad  and the  Department of Justice  website.

Arrest Notification:  If you are arrested or detained, ask officials to notify the Embassy. See our  webpage  for further information.

SPECIAL CIRCUMSTANCES

Dual Nationality and Military Conscription:  Dual national males (including U.S. service members) may be subject to compulsory military service. If you have family ties to South Korea, consult the nearest Korean Embassy or Consulate or the  Korean Military Manpower Administration  regarding potential citizenship obligations  before entering South Korea .

Passport Seizures and Exit Bans:  If you are involved in a criminal investigation or commercial dispute, authorities may seize your passport and/or block your departure. While we may reissue a passport, we cannot lift an exit ban.

Exit Permits:  Exit permits are not generally required. However, if a parent requests a travel restriction on his/her child, Korean authorities may prevent that child from departing even when traveling with the other parent. As of June 1, 2020, foreigners who are long-term residents of the ROK are required to obtain a re-entry permit four business days prior to departure from Korea. The permits are available online through an e-application at the  www.hikorea.go.kr  website.

International Child Abduction:  See our website for information related to the  prevention of international child abduction . 

Working in South Korea:  If working, including teaching or modeling, you must enter with the appropriate work visa. It is not possible to change your visa status without leaving the country. If you begin work without the appropriate visa, you may be arrested, fined, and/or deported. If you are working without a valid work permit and get into a contractual dispute with your employer, you have little legal recourse.

Students:  See our  Students Abroad  page and  FBI travel tips .

Women Travelers:  See our travel tips for  Women Travelers .

ROK National Security Law:  Authorities may detain, arrest, and imprison persons believed to have committed acts intended to endanger the “security of the state,” including statements deemed to praise the political system and/or officials of the DPRK. 

Customs Regulations: There is strict enforcement of regulations on importing and exporting items such as firearms, narcotics and prescription drugs, non-prescription health supplements, radio equipment, and gold. Importation of materials deemed to be obscene, subversive, or harmful to the public peace is also restricted.

• Amphetamines are illegal in Korea. Do not bring amphetamines or other prescription narcotics into the country without obtaining advance permission in writing from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. See the  U.S. Embassy Seoul, Health Information page .
• Traveling with Pets: See  Korea’s Animal and Plant Quarantine Agency  website.

See the  Korean Customs Regulations website for complete information.

LGBTI Travelers:  Consensual same-sex sexual activity is not criminalized. Korea is a conservative country in regards to LGBTI issues. However, there are an increasing number of LGBTI-oriented clubs, festivals and NGOs advocating for LGBTI issues. The ROK National Human Rights Commission Act prohibits discrimination against individuals because of their sexual orientation, but there are no laws specifying punishment for persons found to have discriminated on this basis. Same-sex marriages are not recognized. Korean citizens can legally change their gender identity.

See   our  LGBTI Travel Information  page and section 6 of the  Department of State's Human Rights report  for further details.

Mobility Issues:  Korean law mandates access to transportation, communication, and public buildings. Cross walks typically have audio and visual signals. Older buildings and streets are generally less accessible than modern ones. Metro cars and buses in Seoul offer priority seating for the disabled and most metro stations have elevators. Metro platforms include Korean Braille information. Contact individual bus companies and subway associations for specific information. Foreign residents are eligible for disability assistance from local ward offices; assistance varies by ward.

Quality of Care : Western-style medical facilities are available in most large cities. However, not all doctors and staff, are proficient in English. A  list of hospitals  and medical specialists who speak English is available on our website. For emergency ambulance service dial 119. Ambulance services are widely available. For information on medical evacuation from South Korea, please see the State Department’s brochure on  Air Ambulance/MedEvac/Medical Escort Providers . 

We do not pay medical bills.  Be aware that U.S. Medicare does not apply overseas. Verify your health insurance coverage before traveling overseas. See our webpage for information on  insurance providers for overseas coverage . In most cases, health care providers will require payment in advance of treatment or will not release a patient until hospital bills are paid. We strongly recommend supplemental insurance to include coverage for medical evacuation.

Medication:  Carry prescription medication in original packaging, along with your doctor’s prescription. Most prescription medications, except psychotropic types, can be obtained at Korean pharmacies (brand names often differ). Local pharmacies will require a prescription from a Korean doctor.

Update  vaccinations  recommended by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. 

For further health information go to:

• World Health Organization
• U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  (CDC)

Travel and Transportation

Road Conditions and Safety:  Roads are well-paved, traffic signals functional, and most drivers comply with basic traffic laws. South Korea has a significantly higher traffic fatality rate than the United States. Causes of accidents include excessive speed, frequent lane changes without signaling, running red lights, aggressive bus drivers, and weaving motorcyclists. It is recommended that you photo document any traffic accidents.

Be aware that motorcyclists may drive on sidewalks, and drivers do not always yield to pedestrians in marked crosswalks.

Traffic Laws include:

• International driving permit (or ROK license) is required for all drivers.
• Left-hand turns prohibited except with green arrow.
• Seat belts and car seats are mandatory.
• Motorcycle passengers must wear helmets.
• Automobile drivers are presumed to have some fault in accidents involving pedestrians.
• Expect long waits at police stations while police investigate any incidents.
• Police may take your passport or detain you during an investigation.
• Even if negligence is not proven, criminal charges may be filed.
• Blood-alcohol content of 0.03% or higher is considered legally intoxicated.
• Police regularly set up DUI checkpoints. Drivers are required to submit to breathalyzer tests; refusal can result in cancellation of your license.

For information about driver's permits, vehicle inspection, road tax, and mandatory insurance, refer to our  Road Safety page . You may also visit the  Korea Tourism Organization (KTO) website.

AVIATION SAFETY OVERSIGHT:  The U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has assessed the Government of the Republic of Korea's Civil Aviation Authority as being in compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) aviation safety standards for oversight of the ROK's air carrier operations. Further information may be found on the  FAA's Safety Assessment Page .

Maritime Travel:  Mariners planning travel to South Korea should check for U.S. maritime advisories and alerts at the U.S. Department of Transportation’s  Maritime Security Communications with Industry Web Portal . Information may also be posted to the  U.S. Coast Guard homeport website  and as a broadcast warning on the  National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency’s website .

For additional travel information

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive security messages and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Call us in Washington, D.C. at 1-888-407-4747 (toll-free in the United States and Canada) or 1-202-501-4444 (from all other countries) from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Eastern Standard Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).
• See the  State Department’s travel website  for the  Worldwide Caution  and  Travel Advisories .
• Follow us on X (formerly known as "Twitter") and Facebook .
• See  traveling safely abroad  for useful travel tips.

South Korea was cited in the State Department’s 2022 Annual Report to Congress on International Child Abduction for demonstrating a pattern of non-compliance with respect to international parental child abduction. Review information about International Parental Child Abduction in  South Korea.  For additional IPCA-related information, please see the  International Child Abduction Prevention and Return Act ( ICAPRA )  report.

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North Korea to open border for foreign tourists in December, tour operators say

SEOUL, South Korea — North Korea will resume international tourism to its northeastern city of Samjiyon in December, and possibly the rest of the country, tour companies said Wednesday.

The move is a sign that the reclusive country is readying to reopen borders to bigger groups of foreign tourists after years of strict Covid border controls.

“We have received confirmation from our local partner that tourism to Samjiyon and likely the rest of the country will officially resume in December 2024,” the Beijing-based Koryo Tours said on its website .

International flights in and out of North Korea resumed last year and a small group of Russian tourists flew to North Korea for a private tour in February. Top foreign officials, including Russian President Vladimir Putin in June, have been visiting the country.

But North Korea has not been fully open to international tourists since 2020.

“Having waited for over four years to make this announcement, Koryo Tours is very excited for the opening of North Korean tourism once again,” the firm said, adding that its local partner would confirm itineraries and dates in coming weeks.

North Korea has been building what it calls a “socialist utopia” in Samjiyon, a city near the Chinese border, and “a model of highly civilized mountain city” with new apartments, hotels, a ski resort and commercial, cultural and medical facilities.

Leader Kim Jong Un in July fired or demoted some senior officials for their “irresponsible” handling of his flagship Samjiyon project.

Another travel agency, KTG Tours, also announced that tourists would be able to go to Samjiyon starting this winter.

I've been to North Korea more than 180 times. Here's how tourists can stay out of trouble.

• Simon Cockerell, a tour operator, has visited North Korea more than 180 times.
• North Korea is opening partially to tourism for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic.
• He said visiting can be full of pitfalls, like mentioning religion or South Korea.

This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Simon Cockerell, a manager at the travel agency Koryo Tours. It has been edited for length and clarity.

The first time I went to North Korea, I thought I knew what to expect.

I was living in Beijing at the time, which was near North Korea. I figured it would be a bit like China or a bit like Russia.

There are definitely those elements, especially if you look for them; but the reality is that it is its own place.

In the two decades since then, I've visited North Korea more than 180 times on various tours and trips — perhaps the most of any Westerner.

North Korea has been closed to visitors for almost five years, but is partially opening up to tourists at the end of 2024.

I've shown hundreds of visitors around the country over the years, and if you've ever thought of visiting, this is how to get the most out of a trip to North Korea.

Careful what you talk about

Interacting with the local people and tour guides in the country is not like meeting aliens — it's actually one of my favorite things to do. The fact remains though, that when you're allowed to interact with them, you need to watch what you talk about.

You don't have to go around praising North Korea's leaders, but openly criticizing Kim Jong Un is a definite no-no.

I'm technically allowed to talk about what I want because I'm not a North Korean, but I am also aware that people there don't have that freedom.

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So if I go over there and say, "Oh, hey guys, I want to tell you the truth about your leaders, they're actually quite terrible," I'm putting them in a very, very dangerous position.

Tourism is important to some people there, but nothing is more important than the perception of national security.

You can find some common ground to talk about, but you have to work at it because your cultural references are all completely different. So you can't say, "Oh my gosh, did you see 'Deadpool & Wolverine?'" because they will have no idea what you're talking about.

Absolutely no religious talk

This is the most common reason foreigners get detained in North Korea.

Most of the ways tourists get into trouble in North Korea is for acts that have been pre-meditated, like leaving a Bible behind, handing out religious material, or bringing in other contraband.

Don't take in or leave behind contraband

South Korean cultural products like Korean dramas or K-pop songs should definitely be left behind before coming into North Korea.

Other things on the list include religious material and any material about North Korea published abroad, whether it's literature, guidebooks, or videos.

Then you have the usual — no weaponry, no narcotics. North Korea is actually very permissive about alcohol consumption, so that's OK.

Steer clear of comparisons to South Korea

A lot of tourists who come to North Korea have experience in South Korea as well (it's not true that visiting South Korea makes it difficult to enter North Korea).

These people tend to think "Okay, this is where we will connect. Let me tell you about my life in South Korea!"

The problem is that comparisons between North and South Korea tend to favor the South, and you can imagine people don't like to hear it.

When we lead trips, we tell people "If this is your only conversation, maybe learn to have another conversation."

About 90% of the country is off-limits — so don't wander off

Part of my role as a tour operator has been to be a sort of guinea pig, visiting areas of the country the government is thinking of opening to tourism.

I've seen beautiful seasides with basalt columns and other places tourists still haven't been allowed to visit.

Something like 90% of the country is off-limits for tourists both legally and logistically. Horrific poverty means that there's not much infrastructure conducive to tourism outside approved areas.

There are also military bases and operations throughout the country that are off-limits for obvious reasons.

I would definitely advise that tourists stay with their guides at all times, and not wander off for some personal adventure.

Ask permission to take pictures

Everybody likes to take photos, it's quite understandable. As tour operators, we've seen everything you can imagine. Sometimes someone will take a picture when they're not supposed to.

People seem to think it's off to the gulag as soon as you do something wrong. The worst that I've seen is that they get asked to delete it and not do it again — but it's always best not to try to sneak pictures when you think nobody is looking.

At the end of the day, it's very simple — all you have to do is not break the law. In general, if you don't think you can go into any country without breaking their laws, you probably shouldn't be anywhere near that country — especially if the country is North Korea.

It's the most difficult, complicated, thankless, and endlessly fascinating country I've been to.

Watch: North Korea flies warplanes near South Korea border, triggering drills

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