trek madone seatpost broken

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Madone SLR cracked seatpost?

Moderator: robbosmans

Post by Noctiluxx » Wed Sep 30, 2020 3:50 am --> by Noctiluxx on Wed Sep 30, 2020 3:50 am

Post by TobinHatesYou » Wed Sep 30, 2020 4:28 am --> by TobinHatesYou on Wed Sep 30, 2020 4:28 am

by » Wed Sep 30, 2020 4:28 am --> by Weenie on Wed Sep 30, 2020 4:28 am

Post by Alfus » Wed Sep 30, 2020 6:09 am --> by Alfus on Wed Sep 30, 2020 6:09 am

Post by dgasmd » Wed Sep 30, 2020 6:16 am --> by dgasmd on Wed Sep 30, 2020 6:16 am

Post by jpeterson1012 » Wed Sep 30, 2020 9:54 am --> by jpeterson1012 on Wed Sep 30, 2020 9:54 am

TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑ Wed Sep 30, 2020 4:28 am Perform a coin tap test with the seatpost removed. I will say that one needs to be very, careful with expanding seatpost clamps like the Madone SLR has. Carbon tubes in this application tend to be much weaker under expansion than compression.

Post by TobinHatesYou » Wed Sep 30, 2020 10:47 am --> by TobinHatesYou on Wed Sep 30, 2020 10:47 am

Post by wheelsONfire » Wed Sep 30, 2020 12:25 pm --> by wheelsONfire on Wed Sep 30, 2020 12:25 pm

Noctiluxx wrote: ↑ Wed Sep 30, 2020 3:50 am Completed a ride this morning and noticed what looks like a crack on the seatpost. Took the bike over to my shop and filed a warranty claim. Please check the pic and let me know if this is a crack or a paint defect?

Post by Broady » Wed Sep 30, 2020 12:30 pm --> by Broady on Wed Sep 30, 2020 12:30 pm

Post by ToileySiphon » Wed Sep 30, 2020 12:53 pm --> by ToileySiphon on Wed Sep 30, 2020 12:53 pm

jpeterson1012 wrote: Definitely a crack in the carbon. Under normal circumstances, paint will not crack by itself unless the substrate it adheres to moves. As mentioned, good luck with the warranty. TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑ Wed Sep 30, 2020 4:28 am Perform a coin tap test with the seatpost removed. I will say that one needs to be very, careful with expanding seatpost clamps like the Madone SLR has. Carbon tubes in this application tend to be much weaker under expansion than compression.

Post by jpeterson1012 » Wed Sep 30, 2020 5:41 pm --> by jpeterson1012 on Wed Sep 30, 2020 5:41 pm

TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑ Wed Sep 30, 2020 10:47 am The resins binding the carbon fiber are weak in expansion, correct? Tubes, regardless of construction, are weaker against expansion than compression, yeah? In practice, I see a lot more broken ST on frames with wedge-style seatpost clamps.

Post by Alexbn921 » Wed Sep 30, 2020 7:40 pm --> by Alexbn921 on Wed Sep 30, 2020 7:40 pm

Post by gwilson » Wed Sep 30, 2020 9:08 pm --> by gwilson on Wed Sep 30, 2020 9:08 pm

by » Wed Sep 30, 2020 9:08 pm --> by Weenie on Wed Sep 30, 2020 9:08 pm

Post by FactoryMatt » Wed Sep 30, 2020 11:03 pm --> by FactoryMatt on Wed Sep 30, 2020 11:03 pm

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Spotted: All-new Trek Madone breaks cover at Critérium du Dauphiné

Trek-Segafredo seen aboard brand new aero bike for first time

Just a couple of months after a brand new Domane was spotted at Paris-Roubaix, another Trek road bike has been spotted hiding in plain sight in the peloton. Today it's the turn of the Madone, of which it appears a brand new model has broken cover at the Critérium du Dauphiné . 

Ridden by select members of the Trek-Segafredo team including Tom Skujins , the bike stands out thanks to its wild-looking junction between the top tube, seat tube, seat post and seat stays. From the images we have available, it appears the seat tube splits into two, joining the seat stays, which continue upward to join the top tube. The top tube then continues rearward and up into a floating seat tube, into which the seatpost sits. It appears that Trek's IsoSpeed technology has been removed entirely, presumably relying instead on the flex provided by this design.

Elsewhere, the bike appears to feature deepened tube shapes throughout, including a vastly deepened head tube and fork legs. The bottom bracket area also looks to have been bolstered, with the junction between the down tube and seat tube being considerably larger than before.  

The Madone is Trek's out-and-out aero bike, sitting alongside the endurance-focused Domane and lightweight Emonda. In recent years, as the industry has seen a convergence between aerodynamic and lightweight and the Emonda was given a host of aerodynamic improvements, questions have been raised about what Trek would do with the Madone. Today's sighting leaves little room for doubt: Trek is going all-in on aerodynamics. 

As yet, available images of the new bike are sparse, but we will continue to update this story as they become available. 

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2012 Trek madone 5.2 seat post.

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Hey there, just seeing your post now after returning from vacation. This design has been in use for over a decade, but I have yet to personally see cracks there. However, we do have replacement seat mast caps available that would fit your bike. This could have been over-tightened at some point which would have lead to the cracks, but from normal use, I wouldn't expect that to happen.  

I typically wouldn't recommend cutting, but we often cut carbon posts and handlebars down so in theory, this shouldn't be a problem for you and should last a long time! The cut looks good from what I can see - good thinking, just keep an eye on it should stress markings appear!  

hey Daniel, did you remove the clamp from the cut off portion of the mast cap to re-use it? If so, how did you separate it ? I just picked up a Madone that is about 1 cm tall for me and have a spare mast cap to play with. Thanks in advance.  

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• Trek Manuals
• MADONE 2019
• Assembly manual

Trek MADONE 2019 Assembly Manual

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Summary of Contents for Trek MADONE 2019

• Page 1 2019 MADONE ASSEMBLY MANUAL...
• Page 2 2019 MADONE Rim brakes and Di2 drivetrain Disc brakes and Di2 drivetrain Disc brakes and mechanical drivetrain Rim brakes and mechanical drivetrain...
• Page 3 PROCEDURES COMMON TO ALL 2019 MADONE MODELS TABLE OF CONTENTS Install the chain keeper at the base of the front NOTE derailleur hanger. Torque the bolt to 3 Nm. There is plastic tubing inside the frame to help with the initial routing of the cables and housings through the frame.

Page 4: Tools And Materials Required

• Page 5 Route the RD cable/housing from the head tube to the Install the bottom bracket guide and hold it in place Route the RD cable from the bottom bracket hole cutout in the downtube. with the FD cable. up through the drive-side chainstay and out the rear hole in the chainstay.
• Page 6 INSTALL THE DI2 CABLES AND HOUSINGS TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED Install the short cable housing from the rear Put the RD cable in the rear derailleur cable anchor • Park Tool – Internal Cable Routing Kit (IR-1 or IR-1.2) • Junction B Box (SM JC41) •...
• Page 7 INSTALL THE REAR DISC BRAKE (MECHANICAL DRIVETRAIN) B. Do not over-tighten the zip ties. Snug them up Route the rear brake hose enough to stay in the control centre groove, but A. Slip the rubber grommet onto the brake hose. loose enough so that the hose can slide in the channel.
• Page 8 INSTALL THE REAR DISC BRAKE (Di2 DRIVETRAIN) Connect the control centre to the downtube. Torque Route the rear brake hose Feed the RB hose up through the downtube towards the bolts to 3-4 Nm. the head tube. A. Slip the rubber grommet onto the brake hose. B.
• Page 9 INSTALL THE FRONT DISC BRAKE ROUTE THE REAR RIM BRAKE HOUSING TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED Route the front brake hose • Park Tool Routing Kit (IR-1 or IR-1.2) • Foam sleeve • Electrical tape A. Put soap or grease on the brake hose for ease of installation (approximately 200 mm).
• Page 10 INSTALL THE FORK AND HEADSET TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED Pass the RB housing through the foam sleeve so that Tape the housing flush with the seat tube. • Tape there is 200 mm of housing beyond the rear end of the sleeve.
• Page 11 Arrange the housings in the head tube prior to Interlock the required spacers and slide them down Make sure that installing the upper head tube bearing. the steerer tube to interface with the bearing top the RB hose is not kinked. cap.
• Page 12 INSTALL THE STEM (MECHANICAL DRIVETRAIN) INSTALL THE STEM (Di2 DRIVETRAIN) Feed the FB & RB hoses and FD & RD housings through Install the expander into the fork. Follow the Connect the JC200 connector to the short end of the Install the stem onto the steerer tube.
• Page 13 INSTALL THE HANDLEBAR AND SHIFT LEVERS AT THIS POINT, YOU SHOULD HAVE A COMBINATION OF FOUR POSSIBLE CONFIGURATIONS: As the bike is orientated upright, the RB housing Attach the stem faceplate. Install the rear two bolts Drivetrain Brakes Configuration should be on the top of all other housings coming out first.
• Page 14 INSTALL THE SHIFT LEVERS Now add on your insertion depth from Step 1, plus Re-install the FD housing ferrule. another 10-20 mm. On the drive side, insert the RD housing and the RB On the drive side, push the shift lever back up on housing into the applicable locations in the shifter Example for rear brake: the handlebar to the desired location while inserting...
• Page 15 INSTALL THE FRONT RIM BRAKE ADJUST THE FRONT RIM BRAKE Pull the front brake cable a safe distance back from the With the fork turned to full left, route the brake cable With the fork turned to full left, slide the brake wedge Remove the wedge from between the rollers and slide housing end.
• Page 16 INSTALL THE REAR RIM BRAKE TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED Squeeze the brake lever fully to seat the housing and Use the appropriate centring bolt to make the final • Housing stop and bolt • Cable cutter to stretch the brake cable. centring adjustment.
• Page 17 INSTALL AND ADJUST THE SEATPOST TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED Pass the brake cable and lined end cap into the rear • Saddle • Seatpost wedge and bolts • Long stem 5 mm hex wrench brake housing stop. • Seatpost • Lower seal •...

Page 18: Tools Required

Page 19: fit measurements, page 20: service notes.

• Page 21 PN 577340...

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Madone SLR seatpost / ISOspeed HELP

Hey TR community,

I put my Madone on the the trainer for the first time yesterday and I noticed it has quite a bit of sway side to side In the seatpost (not vertically like the isospeed is supposed to move). There is also a clicking. I can replicate this movement with my hands with the bike off the trainer.

I’m wondering if anyone had experience with this?? Is this normal?

Clicking is not normal. There may be a small amount of movement sideways, but it should not be very noticeable.

I’d suggest taking it in to your Trek dealer to be reviewed by a tech.

My mate had the exact same issue had two replacement frames from Trek (LBS) before it was solved.

Damn, really? I’ve ridden mine around 6000km so far. Did it take a bit to develop? They replaced it no problem? @robcumine

The first bike, the LBS tried shims which didn’t work, replacing the frame, exact same problem, not even into 1 ride, next frame had zero issues. Go back to your LBS Trek Dealer, and present the problem. Based on Scotts issue and the help he received I hope your local Trek dealer has the same confidence.

Did you check your seat post torques?

Just recently experienced the same thing and it could just be a loose bolt at the bottom of the seat mast. My LBS slipped off the cap that covers the top tube/seat mast junction, revealing the bolt (large Allen size) and tightened. Problem solved.

Just came across this forum I am on my second frame set from trek due to this problem and now it’s happening again. Every couple of ride we got to keep retightening to get rid of the excess side movement from the seat post. Still waiting to hear back from trek on this issue!!

Have you put loctite on the bolt when you retightend it?

No I didn’t, because I remember on the first frame we put blue locking compound on the bolt and it didn’t help but I may give a go again.

Hey all, i know this is late, but removing the cap and tightening the bolt where the top tube and the seat tube converge completely fixed this. You can see the bolt in this video (6/8mm keys) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RS0npyIRCEk

Hi all, I just ran into this thread. I have a 2020 Madone SLR that has been having the same problems. I was out on a ride one day the Iso-speed bolt worked loose and my seat mast was swaying side to side really badly. I stopped and thought I had a flat tire but soon realized it was the seat mast. I’ve taken it back to the shop twice now and the problem keeps coming back. This is extremely frustrating as it is now in my head, and racing season is about to begin for me.

I’m curious what will trigger my shop to contact Trek and possibly replace my frame. I can tighten the bolt at home but it should not be that way for such an expensive bike. I feel like the bolt is just ratcheting loose inside with every micro bump on the road.

Hi, I also bought a 2019 Madone slr6, i have had the problem of the slider moving back towards the seatpost after about 30km. I have had it at the bike shop, they tightened the seat post bolt but it still doing it. Firmed up the bolt and now that has put a pimple in the frame and i did not even cranked on it. It would be interesting to here from Trek on their so called team riders bikes if they have any problems

I have had the same issue. What began as movement in the ISOspeed seatpost eventually became a frame crack on 2 different SLRs. I am on my 3rd replacement frame in as many years.

In every case where the frame cracked, it was an audible, very loud crack while I was riding. The most recent crack is on the underside of the top tube in a spot that is not visible without removing the ISOspeed entirely.

The previous crack was in the ISOspeed bolt hole. The bolt had backed out and caused a big piece of carbon to “chip” off. Prior to the first crack, I was plagued with creaking and the bolt would not stay tight under any circumstances.

I will add that Trek has been very responsive to every warranty claim. Everytime Trek replaces the frame, I request compensation in product.

I have a 2019 Trek Madone SLR and having the same problem. The seatmast moves side to side. I’ve tightened the isospeed bolt which only temporarily solved the problem. It got to the point where I was pulling to the side of the road every 10 miles to retighten. I’ve used loctite and it helps a lot but still need to retighten about every 150 miles. You’d think a $7K bike wouldn’t have problems like this.

Also with the same problem. The seatpost started to move sideways. Have taken the bike to the LBS, but afterwards with riding the seatpost makes a lot of noise. After a ride I found out that there was something was loose rolling in my frame. The repair shop probably didn’t see the above movie, because he drop the rubber damper in to my frame (very sloppy). Now I repair it myself, by replacing bolt and nut in the iso-system by a new one and sealt it with a little bit of Loctite 243. I could not find how tight the bolt must be, so I tightened it with 10NM Now after a 2K Kilometer’s the seatpost starts to wiggle again! After inspection found a crack in my frame. Tomorrow to the LBS

Guess i’m in the same boat, is yours making this noise aswell?

That might be the problem then, i’m about the same size. guess we are too heavy for this isospeed toy

Same boat as those above. I have a 9 month-old 2019 Trek Madone SLR6. I ride only on tarmac 100-150 miles a week (but took a few months off during the lockdown) and twice in the past few weeks I’ve noticed that the seatmast is moving side to side. I stop on the side of the road and tighten the isospeed bolt which seems to solve the problem. Then I take it to the LBS for an inspection, just to be safe, ASAP. It’s frustrating, but so far nothing serious. Like some of the posters above I’m on the big end, 212 LBS, but well within Trek’s stated weight limits. Like them I’m wondering if the Madone isospeed isn’t clydesdale-friendly. My wife wants me under 200 LBS; now that the bike agrees with her it might be time for a diet. Anyway advice and info on how Trek responds to the issue welcome!

Bike Makes a Clicking Noise When Pedaling: Fix (Step by Step)

Bike noises are unpredictable. There is nothing more worrying than hearing a clicking sound while on your bike ride. It’s worse when you do not know where the noises are coming from because your bike may have serious mechanical issues. Instead of taking your bike back on the road, it would be better to find the source of the sound and fix it. Taking out the bike for a ride might result to something breaking or result to some sort of accident whether small or big.

Here is why your bike makes clicking noises when you are pedaling and how to fix it.

Table of Contents

The Derailleur Hanger

Pedals and shoes (cleats), unsteady brake pads, bottom bracket, shifter cables, poorly lubricated parts, creaking and squeaking sounds, clunking or rattling noises, keep your bike regularly maintained, bike parts that cause creaks, squeaks, and clicks.

It is important to inspect your bike before every ride. If you notice that bike is clicking you should find the source of the clicking sound and fix it before raiding. Making sure that bolts on your bike are tightened and there are no squeaking sounds can prevent injuries and any damage to a bike. Lets take a look at most common bike parts that can cause bike to creaks, squeaks and clicks.

A misaligned or bent derailleur hanger will cause bike clicking sound when pedaling. Regardless of the size of the bend on the hanger, it will still throw off shifting and cause the bike clicking noises. In other instances, the clicking sounds occur when the hanger rubs against the bike frame.

– How to fix bike derailleur hanger clicking :

In the case where the hanger is rubbing against the frame you can try following to fix it

• Detach the hanger and clean up all components.
• Make sure you oil the surfaces to reduce any friction.
• Repair the hanger if you need to before re-installing it back.
• Remove them pulleys and oil/grease them before putting them back up.

One easy way to diagnose the clicking sound on your bike is to listen to its rhythm. If the pedals are the issue , you will notice the clicking noise when you pedal after every single pedal stroke. Clicking and squeaking with every stroke or rotation can also be as a result of faulty cleats. 

– How to fix bike pedal clicking noise:

Remove the pedals from the bike and grease them. Make sure the crank arm, washers and pedal are intact when re-installing them. Lubing the pedal springs every now and will help you prevent squeaky bike noises.

If your shoes get noisy during pedaling it’s a sign that you need to clean and lubricate them.

When the brake pads rub against the rims of the bike pedal while you are pedaling they can cause a clicking noise.

– How to fix bike brakes knocking noise :

First, make sure that the brake pads are toes in and in optimum condition. The front pads should only make contact with the rear part of the bike.

RELATED: Keep Your Bike Running Smoothly ­- How to Maintain a Mountain Bike

If the sound is not coming from your drivetrain and pedals, then the bottom bracket is definitely your culprit. Parts of your bike like the bottom brackets can be loose, causing annoying clicking sounds when you pedal.

– How to fix bottom bracket clicking sounds :

Check to see if the bottom brackets are tight. To reduce the clicking sounds, you have to tighten the bottom bracket cups. If your bike has a pre—fit bottom bracket you and you don’t have the tools to fix them, it would be better to take the bike to the bike shop for a quick repair.

Constant clicking sounds in certain gears means there is an issue with your shifter cables. If the shifter cable stretch, they can pull the derailleur out of alignment. This causes the chain to rub against the derailleur cage ride between the gears, making a constant clicking sound.

– How to fix shifter cables rubbing noises:

If your derailleur hanger is not bent and the derailleur is aligned, then the next solution is to tune the tension on the derailleur. If this does not fix the clicking sounds on your bike then you will need to replace the shifter cables.

Difficulty pedaling the bike, followed by a clicking and nocking sound while you are pedaling is a clear indication that you are  working with poorly lubricated bike.

Without lubrication, the chain won’t give you guaranteed performance while cycling. When it’s not well maintained, the chain will not accommodate the energy received during cycling.

– How to fix poorly lubricated bike:

The solution here is as simple as lubricating the bike. Use a lubricant lube or spray on the rollers to avoid the clicking and knocking sounds. Applying lube on your bike every two weeks should work out fine.

Other Bike Noises and How to Fix Them

While it’s uncommon, defective bike frames can be the cause of persistent creaking noise while you are pedaling hard. 

– How to fix bike frame creaking noise:

Unfortunately, bike frame malfunctions can be hard to diagnose. Frame defects like hairline cracks are hard to find if you are not a professional. The main solution is to take the bike to your local bike shop for diagnosis and fixing.

Quick Release or Thru Axle

The quick release will cause a squeaking noise when loose or dirty.  

– How to fix quick release squeaking noise:

To fix this, you need to tighten the quick release or thru acle and make sure it is not cracked or broken on which case will need fixing. Otherwise, make sure to remove, clean and grease the thru axle for a better riding experience.

RELATED: Fluid Nitro Mountain Bike Crank Removal

Loose Chain 

If you hear a clunking or rattling noise while riding your bike, it could be due to a loose bike chain. A loose chain can cause the links to bounce around and hit the adjacent gears, causing a clunking noise.

Loose chain can also produce a rattling noise when the chain slaps against the chainstay or derailleur. Make sure to inspect your bike chain regularly in order to prevent any problems.

– How to fix loose chain rattling noise:

To fix this issue, chain will need to be tightened. 

• The first step is to shift the chain to the smallest chainring and sprocket, so that there is less tension on the chain.
• Then, use a chain tool to loosen the bolt that attaches the chain to the derailleur.
• Pull the chain taut by lifting the rear wheel off the ground and rotating the cranks.
• Once the chain is sufficiently tight, reattach the bolt to the derailleur.

Be sure not to over-tighten the chain, as this can cause damage to your bike’s gears or derailleur. With a properly tightened chain, you can enjoy a smooth and quiet ride. .

Loose Headset

If you hear clunking or rattling sounds from the front end of the bike while pedaling, the problem could be a lose headset. To check if this is the issue, you choose grab the front brake lever and rock it from front to back. You will hear the clunking sound and feel movement if you have a loose headset.

– How to fix loose headset rattling sounds:

To fix this, you should tighten the bolds in your headset. Start by loosening the stem bolts, tightening your headset then securing the stem bolts to make sure everything is fixed in tightly.

Loose Bottle Cage

Once common causes for rattling sounds while on the road is a loose bottle cage.

– How to fix loose bottle cage noise:

This is an easy fix: check the bolts that attach the bottle cage to your bike frame. Tighten all loose bolts to the manufacture’s specifications especially when you are dealing with carbon parts.

Too Many Wires

Too many cables at the front of the bike could cause consistent rattling sounds while you are riding. One of the main reasons for this is poor wire set-up or having excessive wires on the front end of the bike. The cables click against the frame or each other, causing a rattling sound. Internal cable routing will cause even launder rattling sounds

– How to fix rattling caused by cables:

The best way to fix this would be by rerouting or replacing the brake and shifter cables. You would be better off taking the bike to your local bike shop if you lack the tools and skills to repair it.

Maintaining your bike is crucial to ensure optimal performance and longevity. Neglecting your bike’s maintenance can lead to more severe problems down the line that will cost more money to fix. Therefore, it’s in your best interest to service your bike regularly.

Regular bike maintenance ensures that small issues are caught before they become bigger problems, meaning you can catch and eliminate any potential noise problems before they turn into something worse.

When your bike needs maintenance or repair, it is best to take it to a reputable bike repair shop. Experienced bike technicians will know exactly how to diagnose and repair any issues with your bike. 

Bike riding is more peaceful and enjoyable when you have a smooth-running and noise-free bike . If you notice some clicking, squeaking, clunking and ratting sounds, it could be one of the reasons mentioned in this article.

Your bike making noises as you pedal is a clear indication that it needs readjustments and repairs. The best thing to do is find the cause of the noise and have it fixed immediately. If you are unsure of the source of your noise, take the bike to your Local bike shop for inspection.

If you find yourself unable to fix a clicking noise or any other issues with your bike, it’s best to take your bike to a qualified bike mechanic. It is essential to keep up with your bike’s needs and not to fall behind on taking it to a professional when problems arise. 

This is one of the hardest noises to find, especially while pedaling. If you stop pedaling and place the bike on a stand, you notice that the is no noise coming out. this is because the stand holds the frame firmly and the water bottle does not rock from side to side.

Yes, with the right tools, shifter cable replacement is easy. you only need a new cable set, cable housing cutters, diagonal cutters, hex wrenches and a small pick.

Are all Bicycle Pedals Universal? Detailed Guide

Can you put hybrid tires on a mountain bike step-by-step, patrick flinch.

Patrick Flinch is a professional cyclist, according to him, cycling is a sport that also helps people stay in good shape. Cycling takes many forms, and styles and so does the cycling equipment, however, this information is not available to everyone and that is why Patrick thought it wise to consolidate the most important information about cycling on “For the Bike Magazine.” Beginner, intermediate and professional cyclists will be furnished with useful insights. They will be able to understand the differences and benefits of both online and physical cycling. Apart from Cycling, Patrick is a family man, he is passionate about cycling and when not on duty, he loves to enjoy biking with his crew.

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SUSPENSION SEATPOST ON MY NCM MOSCOW

• Thread starter RJC
• Start date Sep 30, 2021

Active Member

• Sep 30, 2021

Hi, If anyone has been wanting a smoother ride ,especially Off Road then I can recommend the Suntour NCX Suspesion Seatpost. There is a big difference between this and the standard seat post. Ebay Uk currently have them for sale around £60, there are sellers also asking £150+ They are all selling so I guess other people rate them.  

theemartymac

Well-known member.

I added them to each of my bikes, and they are good value for the money, But I'd add 2 notes for folks considering them: 1. They are the tallest suspension seatpost option, so you need 4" of available height. If you can't measure very close to 4" between your seat post clamp and the rails on your seat in it's current setting, you won't have enough clearance to add one. 2. They sell 3x springs for them, and come stock with the middle strength spring. Lighter riders will want to order the light spring, and heavier riders the heavy one. Makes a noticeable difference in sensitivity if you match the right spring. There are other options if you don't have the clearance for the Suntour.  

• Oct 1, 2021

I’ve got one of these on my Moscow . Agree with all the above - it greatly improves the overall suspension and feel of the bike over rough tracks - it easily manages surfaces / gradients now that were unrideable before , in terms of both comfort and handling .  

• Jul 1, 2022

Yep me too, makes a nice big difference to my NCM Moscow Plus 27.5. Absorbs a lot of bumps.  

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