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Vama Veche is a small village on the Romanian border with Bulgaria on the shore of the Black Sea . The coastline of Vama Veche is quite peaceful as it is not a hot spot for tourists.

E87 South from Constanta (Romania) or North from Varna (Bulgaria). Particular reference points at the South-Bound entrance to Vama Veche are the Golden Sea Motel (yellow and green color) on the left (East) of E-87, an indicator to Marina Park (a leading restaurant, bar and camp-ground) and the Punk Rock Hotel on the right (West) side of E-87.

Fly to Henry Coanda International Airport ( OTP  IATA ) in Bucharest, serviced by over a dozen airlines among which, KLM, TAROM, WizzAir or to Kogalniceanu Airport ( CND  IATA ) near Constanta, and take a train or bus to Mangalia , and then take a Minibus south to Vama Veche. Minibuses are reliable, with assigned seating; assume at least one bus per hour down the Constanta-Vama Veche road (E-87), although changing buses once in Mangalia might be necessary. Assume total trip time from Constanta to Vama Veche of 1½ hours, including transfers. Cost should not exceed €5.

An alternative is to fly into Varna ( VAR  IATA ), Bulgaria, and head North on E-87. If already in Bulgaria, a weekend trip to Vama Veche is a must-do party adventure!

The closest train station is in Mangalia, which is fairly well served by trains that are packed (truly packed!) in the high season. Going to Constanta will not make your train ride up to Bucharest any more comfortable, but slightly quicker.

From Constanta, go to the South Autogare next to the Train station and take a minibus going to Mangalia (10 lei). Tell the driver that you want to go to Vama Veche and he will stop you in front of the Nordiana hotel (facing LIDL supermarket). Every hour there is a bus from that hotel going to Vama Veche (4.5 lei), you can also take that bus from other parts of the main road in Mangalia.

Walking is the means of transport. Preferably in shabby flip-flops, or barefoot.

• Party!!! . July and August weekends, and weekdays offer dozens of beach-front bars, clubs and restaurants with 24/7 service. Thousands of people gather on the weekends and party on the beach! May 1st weekend of every years is the "grand opening" of the season. If you enjoy Rock music, that's when you must be there! Stuff Stock Music Festival closes the season, usually the end of August. Enjoy the free spirit and Bohemian atmosphere created by all!  
• Stufstock . The "Save Vama Veche" rock music festival, was first organized in 2003 as a protest against urban development in and mass tourism to Vama Veche. It's held in August or September and features bands from Romania and abroad.  
• Swim . The beach is very clean by Black Sea standards. The water is too cold for swimming in the spring, but all right in August.  
• Bonfire at the beach . You can make a fire on the sand. As other countries forbid it, it is interesting activity to enjoy sea, wine and fire on the beach. It was asked for policemen if it is legal. They said that as long as you are looking after the fire, it is okay to do it.  
• Sail . If you want to go 'authentic, man!' you can ask one of the fisherboat crews whether you can go with them on their sail - be prepared to buy them drinks, of course.  
• Diving . There is a little dive base with OK equipment (no computers, octopus poor, little free flow on valve) offering beach dives, which are probably not worth the effort, as visibility will be limited and the instruction is poor. If you have your certification though, and are confident that you can handle standard situations on your own, you can borrow equipment there, and go - together with the divemaster - to the shipwreck which lies about 150 m off shore from -10 to +5 m. The lifesavers on duty will row you there. The wreck should not be entered, but going around is quite an experience - for one dive - and you have better visibility there. As the Black Sea is not a prime dive area, you can not expect to see anything spectacular of course.  
• Walk to Bulgaria . It's about 600 m on foot, so it's not that far away. You have to cross the border not by sea, but by the road. It might be possible, but is not worth the risk. If you are going to do this, do not cross the border by going through the small dirt road that is a continuation of Str. Falezei. When you get to the point where there are no more houses, there are feral dogs that will charge at you as soon as you turn the up-coming corner.  
• [dead link] Vama Veche's community right . You can join the Vama Veche's community right.  

There are a variety of restaurants ranging from Romanian food, to a creperie, to pizza joints. The best pizza during weekends is at Marina Park .

Down at the beach area, there are stalls offering "Hamsii" (little fried fish as a whole, offered with lemon or a ridiculous amount of garlic sauce). It's not a wine and dine place, though.

Beer selection is also ample, as are cocktails, cognacs and whisky. There are dozens of beach-front locations open 24/7.

Homestay is one option for tourists. The small buses usually drop you off along the main road in Vama Veche. After getting off the bus, you may be approached by local residents with whom you can negotiate to rent a spare bedroom in their home or a cheap place for a tent in their garden. The preferred option, however, is camping on the beach . Roughly two-thirds of the younger people do this, leaving only limited space for lingering about the beach. There are toilets and showers available, although grungy. Theft did not seem a problem.

• 43.75351 28.57131 1 Elga's Punk Rock Hostel ( punk rock hotel ), Vama Veche ( at the entrance of town ), ☏ +40 241 858 070 , fax : +40 241 858 080 , [email protected] . Probably the best choice among the hotels you can find in this lively, grungy town, with nice wooden rooms, fair showers and a great couple running the place. Be prepared, though, to acoustically participate in the pleasures your neighbours are enjoying.  
• Golden Sea Motel ( East side of E-87, on the entrance in to Vama Veche ), ☏ +40 727-178-580 , [email protected] . Three star rural tourism accommodations. This establishment also offers air conditioning, a private yard with summer kitchen and BBQ area and private parking. The rooms are spacious by local standards and have private bath with 24/7 hot water. Above all, the place is clean & comfortable. If you are too tired from the sun and partying, Golden Sea also offers food catering and all inclusive packages. Indoor refrigerators also available. Pets welcome. ( updated Oct 2015 )
• 43.75455 28.5734 2 Oz Vama Veche , Strada Tudor Vladimirescu 2 , ☏ +40 724 278 848 , [email protected] . Free Wifi. Camping. Bungalows. 40 lei 1 double bed bungalow shared bathroom .  
• Constanţa - Romania's largest seaport
• Mangalia - a port city and resort that hosts one of Romania's largest summer festivals
• Varna , Bulgaria - a seaside resort city and one of the oldest cities in Europe
• Head North on E-87 , parallel to the Black Sea coast. Be sure to stop by the exiting road sign from Vama Veche, right next to the Golden Sea Motel and take the usual "photo op" stop with the road sign. A usual custom of many visitors. You can also take advantage of this stop and stock-up on roadtrip goodies from the Double M Mini Food Mart , just south of the Golden Sea Motel on the same (east) side of the road. If you want to freshen up prior to your drive, Golden Sea Motel often will allow you access to their clean restrooms.

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Vama Veche: Romania's offbeat tourist town on the Black Sea

Jade Jánosi

• Vama Veche travel guide

Planning a trip to Vama Veche? Stay at Casa in Culori for comfortable rooms in a great location.

A small village on Romania's Black Sea, Vama Veche has a strong reputation. One way or another, everyone seems to have a very strong opinion about this little coastal village in the middle of nowhere.

Before I embarked on the 10+ hour drive from Cluj-Napoca , I really wanted to know whether Vama Veche was worth visiting. So, I did my research and read and heard many conflicting stories of peoples’ experiences.

While some recommended it wholeheartedly as the land of freedom and artistic expression, others told me to stay away. They said that it was dirty and overpriced, with too much noise and too many parties.

After biting the bullet and deciding to visit after all, here’s my take.

Vama Veche's bohemian years

Vama Veche is situated on the southern edge of the Romanian Black Sea coast, adjacent to the Bulgarian border. Its name, Vama Veche translates to ‘Old Customs,’ an homage to its location near the border.

Once a small fishing village, it gained something of a reputation in the 1970s, when professors from University Babeș-Bolyai in Cluj-Napoca would congregate there during the summer months.

Vama Veche became a haven for bohemians, hippies, intellectuals, punks, rockers, and anyone else belonging to a more alternative crowd. People rented rooms from fishermen or camped on the beach. It was the land of freedom of thought and artistic creativity, anti-consumerism, free spirits.

During the Communist Era, particularly in the 1980’s when extreme rationing and censorship were at their peak, Vama Veche remained a ‘safe space’ for free thought and a non-mainstream hangout. Its reputation as a reprieve from state-sponsored repression attracted more and more people.

However, in 1988, while en route to Bulgaria, Elena Ceaușescu, wife of notorious dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu, passed through the village. She decided it was not aesthetically pleasing and should be demolished. Some buildings were destroyed, including houses, a school, and a church. Thankfully, the Revolution of 1989 followed shortly afterwards, and the rest of Vama Veche was spared.

Vama Veche: party town

During the shift from planned economy to capitalism, Vama Veche remained mostly unharmed from the major developments that were occurring in other seaside resort towns along the coast.

Eventually, word travelled about the ‘untouched’ nature of Vama Veche, and soon there was a boom of touristic development. More and more restaurants and terraces were established and soon, Vama was the place to go if you wanted to party – especially for Southerners and city-dwellers looking to escape Bucharest for a weekend.

Today, 31 years after the fall of communism in Romania, Vama Veche has become increasingly more commercial and more developed. Gentrification is an issue (just check out the number of Airbnb’s located in Vama, many owned and run by non-Romanians). Hostels line the main streets, vendors are set up selling one thing or another on every corner. Cheap gift shops abound. The spirit of anti-consumerism is all but nonexistent.

Stufstock's ‘Save Vama Veche’ established in 2003 as an appeal against mass-tourism, gentrification, and mainstream concepts and morals. Ironically, it attracted more and more people each year and the Stufstock Rock Festival usually closes out the season sometime in August or September.

So, is Vama Veche worth visiting?

As this was my first time visiting Vama Veche, I have nothing to compare it to but the stories of others. Many Romanians say that Vama Veche has completely lost its authenticity and charm and that the prices are exorbitant in comparison to the rest of the country.

This I can attest to! A beer in the supermarket in Vama costs the same as a beer in a restaurant in Cluj – with tip!

So, what was my final opinion of Vama Veche? Bohemian hangout or inundated tourist trap? To be honest, I thought it was a little bit of both. Never having been there before, I had no memories that were lost and no nostalgia to preserve.

Despite the crowds, I definitely believe this is one of the most underrated beach destinations in Europe. Saying that, it is certainly not for everyone.

I spent a week there and saw it all. From the nudist beach (an integral part of Vama Veche culture), old dudes picking wedgies with their ass cracks hanging out, even some guy in an incoherent drugged-up state, who subsequently came to our table and ate a breakfast sausage off my plate (he tried to pet my – very friendly – dog immediately after, who promptly bit him). There was a lot of trash and a lot of masks thrown on the ground carelessly.

But the spirit of community, freedom, and carefree living are still very much alive. Though, maybe in different ways than some Vama Veche veterans remember.

There is actually a word in Romanian that proves just how special Vama Veche is to so many. Vamaioți – a term to describe people who are so in love with Vama Veche, that they will always come back.

How to get to Vama Veche

Besides driving, which is the most convenient, there are other ways to reach Vama. Fly to Henry Coanda International Airport (OTP) in Bucharest or to Kogalniceanu Airport (CND) near Constanta, and take a train or bus to Mangalia, and then take a Minibus (“MaxiTaxi”) south to Vama.

Where to stay in Vama Veche

If your budget isn’t very tight, Vama Veche has a number of upscale accommodations. Some of the highest rated include Casa in Culori Vama Veche , Vila Sophia , and Ema .

If you’re visiting on a budget, there is no shortage of hostels to choose from. The most popular hostels in the area are Elga’s Punk Rock Hostel , Bazart Hostel , and Hostel Sea Star .

We stayed at Pensiunea Hesta , which is also dog friendly. It was convenient to the beachfront, but the biggest issue here was all of the people playing Manele at full blast until 7am every day. This may or may not be an issue, depending on who else is staying at the property.

Where to eat and drink in Vama Veche

The seafront is lined with restaurants as far as the eye can see. During my stay there, we tended to rotate going to only a couple of different restaurants.

Cherhana is without-a-doubt the gold standard of seafood in Vama Veche. La Canapele was good for a solid breakfast selection. Bibi Bistro has delicious ciolan and yummy mojitos!

As with restaurants, bars and clubs are abundant in the village. During the summer, many bars and clubs are open 24 hours.

Some popular places to go include Stuf, Yuva Beach Bar, Acolo, Arca, Molotov, Expirat, and countless others.

What to do in Vama Veche

Believe it or not, there are other things to do in Vama besides party.

Take a taxi over to 2 Mai, Vama’s neighbor, just 5km north. This village is a little more family friendly, so it may be a better option if traveling with children.

Walk to Bulgaria! The border is less than 1km away from Vama. Border control is present, so have your passport if you plan on crossing.

Explore an underwater shipwreck. Can you dive? Head to Marine Explorers Dive Center and see about exploring the shipwreck just 150m offshore.

• Where to next

If you have a few days to spare, drive a few hours north to the Ukraine border and check out the Danube Delta, one of the most wild and remote areas in all of Europe!

Or, if you've already travelled through Romania, continue your travels over the border into Bulgaria.

• Introduction
• Bohemian years
• A party town
• Is it worth visiting?
• Getting there
• Where to stay
• Where to drink

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Author - Jade Jánosi

Jade Laurenza is a US expat living in Romania. She enjoys slow travel and is never without her yoga mat

Last Updated 4 September 2023

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Casa Dexter located at Str Mihail Kogalniceanu 43, 1.48 kilometers northeast .

Vila Doriana located at 43 Mihail Kogalniceanu street, 1.49 kilometers northeast .

Casa Yachi three stars hotel located at Mihai Eminescu nr 15, 1.53 kilometers northeast .

Vila Sophia three stars hotel located at Str. Margeanului, 1.58 kilometers northeast .

Hotel Bourbon located at Strada Delfinului, 1.67 kilometers northeast .

Floare de Iris three stars hotel located at Str. Albatros nr. 12, 1.67 kilometers northeast .

Camping Daviami two stars hotel located at Str. Pescarusului, Nr.7, 1.7 kilometers northeast .

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Polu-X Vama Veche 2 Mai

Polu-X villa 3*** Vama Veche is located in the southern part of the resort, approximately 280 meters from the beach. Launched in 2022, structured on ground floor and 2 storeys, Polu-X villa prov ... Continue reading

270m from beach, Meduzei, no. 6B See the map

Description Polu-X

Polu-X villa 3*** Vama Veche is located in the southern part of the resort, approximately 280 meters from the beach. Launched in 2022, structured on ground floor and 2 storeys, Polu-X villa provides accommodation in comfortable double rooms and an apartment, being set with LCD tv, air conditioning, bathroom with shower cabin. Some rooms provide a balcony. Wireless internet is available for free.  Polu-X villa also offers a garden featuring a lawn, as well as a terrace on the second floor. Guests of Polu-X villa benefit from free private parking, upon availabilty. 

Did you know that for reservations at Polu-X Vama Veche 2 Mai you can receive a credit equivalent to 0% of the reservation value if you make the reservation logged into your account on the Litoralulromanesc.ro website?

Hotel facilities

Double rooms Apartment Lugagge storage WIreless internet Garden Terrace Private parking - free, upon availability

• Pet friendly
• Air conditioning

Room facilities

The double rooms at the ground floor feature a matrimonial bed or two twin beds, air conditioning, LCD tv, wi fi, mosquito nets, bathroom with shower cabin. They do not have balcony. Surface 12 sqm.  The double rooms upstairs feature a matrimonial bed, air conditioning, LCD tv, wi fi, mosquito nets, bathroom with shower cabin. They have balcony. Surface 12 sqm.  The apartment is set on the ground floor and features 2 matrimonial beds, air conditioning, LCD tv, wi fi, mosquito nets, bathroom with shower cabin. It has direct access to the garden. Surface 24 sqm.  The extra bed is expandable type.

Other specificatios

Check-in: 18:00 Check-out: 12:00

Hair dryer is available on request, in reception. Small breed pets are allowed, for free. 

Frequent questions for Polu-X Vama Veche 2 Mai

What types of rooms are available at the polu-x , what are the payment methods for the polu-x , does polu-x has its own restaurant , what is the time of check-in and check-out at the , what facilities does polu-x provide to its tourists , you can pay with holiday vouchers ( holiday tickets ) or holiday card at litoralulromanesc.ro for polu-x , for reservations at polu-x , we accept payment with vouchers/holiday vouchers.

We know how important the details and photos of a hotel are in making the decision to book a vacation. That is why we strive to provide you with the most detailed descriptions of the accommodation units that we promote on our website and we rely on our hotel partners to provide correct and relevant information. However, the information presented may undergo further changes depending on the evolutions and activities of the hotels. Therefore, we reserve the right to make the necessary updates whenever the situation requires it.

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Special accommodation in Vama Veche

Rooms available at vama22.

The room has an upholstered double bed, orthopedic mattresses with satin cotton linens for a restful sleep, new furniture, air conditioning, smart TV, refrigerator, folding window and mosquito net.

• private bathroom
• air conditioning
• folding window and mosquito net

The room has an upholstered double bed and a single bed, orthopedic mattresses with satin cotton linens for a restful sleep, new furniture, air conditioning, smart TV, refrigerator, folding window and mosquito net.

• Check in at 15:00 - 22:00

Reviews from our clients

A superb, fresh location, with a special and very welcoming atmosphere. The rooms are clean and with a very nice decoration. The courtyard is ideal for hanging out with friends and having a cup of coffee/tea (on the side of the house😊). It is close to the beach and the owners are very kind. I recommend! (translated)

We stayed here last weekend and it is one of the nicest and nicest accommodations we have ever stayed in on the Romanian coast. I congratulated the owners then and I congratulate them now for the investment made. I sincerely wish them to have clients who appreciate the work and the investment there. We recommend from the bottom of our hearts and we will definitely come back. Congratulations ❤️ (translated)

A superb location, furnished with a lot of soul and attention to details! Everything sparkles with cleanliness and the coffee from the house, enjoyed in the small charming courtyard, invigorates you after a long journey. I recommend this location to those who appreciate peace, quality and good taste! (translated)

An absolutely superb accommodation, very well arranged, neat, very clean, with a private bathroom and super fast internet. Splendid location, close to the beach and restaurants. The owners are super kind, friendly and caring, so that we don’t miss anything. I warmly recommend this accommodation unit. I can’t wait to come back!!! Quality/price ratio 10+ with congratulations! (translated)

A wonderful location for a family with a child, and not only that! Exemplary cleanliness, quiet, new furniture, everything you need for a successful stay at Vămă! The owners were very kind and made sure we didn’t miss anything during our stay! We will definitely be back! (translated)

A dream guesthouse. Clean and very nicely furnished rooms. You don’t miss anything during this stay. Each room has its own bathroom very well equipped with towels, hair dryer, shower gel, shampoo. In the room you will find a mini fridge, air conditioning and a smart TV. Each room has a small table outside where you can sit and drink your morning or evening coffee in complete silence (depending on your preferences), outside a mini kitchen where you can find an espresso machine and you can make coffee anytime, an oven and a refrigerator outside. (translated)

I liked that it offers the near terrace for every room where you can relax and chat, have a lemonade made by the owners and for all 4 rooms you have a small kitchen with everything that you need to drink and prepare a something like a salad or use the microwave.

• +40 748 881 998
• [email protected]
• Str. Meduzei, nr. 1B, Vama Veche
• Booking.com
• turistinfo.ro

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