carnival cruise south pacific review

• BACKPACKERS WANDERLUST - AN AWARD WINNING TRAVEL BLOG
• Work With Me

• DISCLOSURE & PRIVACY POLICY
• United States
• Cook Islands
• New Caledonia
• New Zealand
• Accommodation Goals
• Budget And Cost Of Travel
• Foodie Goals
• Packing & Planning
• Travel Inspiration
• Volunteering Abroad
• Working & Studying Abroad
• Other Travel Tips

Carnival Spirit Review: My Experience On A Carnival South Pacific Cruise

Find out about my experience on a Carnival South Pacific Cruise. In this Carnival Spirit Review, I will be letting you know about the rooms, food, entertainment, ports of call and more!

Taking a little break from our regular backpacking routine, my partner and I decided to mix things up by going on a Carnival South Pacific Cruise. I will give you my Carnival Spirit review from a first-timer who is used to simple holidays.

We booked our Carnival South Pacific Cruise direct on the Carnival website (Australian version), rather than at a travel agent which most cruisers seemed to do. We always book direct and don’t use travel agents while on different adventures. Though if you are wanting a simple and easy experience travel agents are the way to go.

For this Carnival Spirit review, I will be talking about my experience on a Carnival South Pacific Cruise. All their Pacific cruises are on the Carnival website under ‘South Pacific Cruise’, though if you change the dates you will notice the ports of call also change. Our ports of call on the Carnival Spirit were Noumea, Isle Of Pines , Lifou, Mystery Island and Vila. So, it was a mixture of New Caledonia and Vanuatu which lasted 11 days, many of these being sea days.

Carnival Spirit Review: My Experience On Board

Our carnival south pacific cruise experience.

• Ocean View Cabin
• Food Onboard The Carnival Spirit
• Entertainment Options
• The Serenity Adults Only Area

Twenty something-year-old couples are often not seen on cruises, and I seriously cannot understand why! All in all, we had such a fabulous time. Though I will be going into why exactly further down. Though first of all let’s talk about COSTS.

As a backpacker and a semi frugal traveler, I like to make my money go far. Cruising always seemed like a decent option in regards to this. You can find cruises for less than $100.00 per day. For all entertainment, food, drink and travel expenses this seemed like a pretty decent deal. Especially when the majority of stops in the South Pacific you can just spend your day beachside and your wallet closed.

Luckily for us, this Carnival South Pacific cruise fell right into this section. The cruise itself ended up costing about $70.00 per day and the most we ever spent at a port of call was in Port Vila, Vanuatu where a day tour cost $45.00 including entry fees. We also booked our Carnival Cruise during a period they were having a special sale, giving us $200.00 onboard credit to spend wherever we would like while on the ship.

We always found ourselves super busy on the seven days we spent at sea. This may seem like a lot, though it was a great way to get into cruise life and relax after the ports of call.

The Carnival Spirit departed and arrived in Sydney Australia , and with the international airport, it was super easy to access. We actually arrived a couple of days prior to explore Sydney for the first time and get a taste of the city. Flights from Auckland, New Zealand are relatively inexpensive and on the return, we even managed to book a business class flight on LATAM for the same price as Air New Zealand economy!

Ocean View Cabin 1208 On The Carnival Spirit

We loved our Ocean View Cabin on the Carnival Spirit and actually wouldn’t have upgraded it to a balcony room if we had the chance. It was super roomy, with a queen bed and two couches, providing plenty of seating. Looking in the wardrobe there were 3 life jackets, meaning this is likely a triple room. With the large couch providing the ability to transform into a single bed.

The decor is quite dated, reminding me of a typical house of the 90s with all the peachy tones. Though obviously this is not a major. We had a large window providing a view of all the ocean waves. This provided great night time entertainment, sitting in the dark and watching the white caps of the water pass by.

The bathroom itself was also quite roomy and had plenty of storage space. An airplane-style toilet was a bit noisy when flushing, though that is just cruise ship life. Having a wire running across the top of the shower provided somewhere to dry wet gear, though in all honesty it never dried due to moisture in the bathroom.

Our room was also located right next to the elevators and surprisingly there was absolutely no noise. Even from the neighbors next door we never heard anything! You would just fall asleep to the creaks in the boat driving through the night.

We actually originally booked an interior room for our South Pacific Carnival Cruise. Though received an upgrade to an obstructed ocean view room a couple of months before departure, and then another upgrade to our final ocean view room a couple of weeks before departure. I am not sure why or how we received this upgrade. My full name is different from the one I write under and I had not made Carnival aware I was cruising with them. Also, my parents went on the same Carnival Spirit Cruise a month after us and also received an upgrade from their originally booked ocean view room to a balcony room.

The only thing reasoning I can conclude about the upgrades is that you should book directly with Carnival (compared to going through an agent) and secondly, to not choose your exact cabin, just booking the best available fare. Overall allowing Carnival to move you around as needed without third party interference.

Food & Drinks On Our South Pacific Carnival Cruise

As a vegetarian and a super picky eater, I was actually super nervous about the food selection onboard. It is honestly a mission to feed me and I will ALWAYS look up a restaurant menu before going so I know whether I can actually eat there or not. So I must say the variety of food onboard the Carnival Spirit honestly amazed me. There was only one area I couldn’t really eat from the buffet, but instead, there were always plenty of alternatives.

No matter the time of day you could get a meal on board the ship, even at 4am in the morning! This was great as a bedtime pizza can never be a bad idea,

The main dining areas are the Main Dining Room and the Buffet. Both of these are free and included in your fare. Though for more of unique dining experience you can visit the Nouveau RestauRant of Bonsi Sushi, both have additional costs involved.

For 24 hour dining, you can head to Pizza Pirate, serving up delicious fluffy pizzas with an assortment of topping options. You can even get customized pizzas, perfect if you’re dairy-free or vegetarian.

All in all, the is essentially always somewhere open on the ship for a delicious meal or a snack. Even if you’ve missed the main lunch dining hours during a port of call day they have other eating establishments open to refuel you after a busy day exploring. This is a great time to try the Fat Jimmy’s C-Side BBQ or Guys Burger Joint.

Eating In The Main Dining Room

It seemed eating in the main dining room was a popular choice for cruisers, but in all honesty, it was not for us. Table service is nice, but as frequent travelers, I am used to eating at restaurants. Seriously in my first stint around Asia, I ate out at least twice a day for 6 months.

We ate at the main dining room twice, once for dinner and once for breakfast. Traveling as 2 people we were sat at a table with 2 other people, a couple of friends who are frequent travelers. No offense whatsoever to them, but I prefer a more intimate dining experience than being sat with randoms. During breakfast service, we were just shoved at the next free table.

I found that my food arrived at the table cold. Likely because they were serving a large number of people at the same time. I like my food hot and the ability to add little extras as required without asking, So that was basically the main dining room off the list for me.

Eating At The Buffet

On Deck 9 you will find the buffet area serving a mixture of buffet options at particular stations as well as Pizza Pirate, Guys Burger Joint, BlueIguana Cantina, The Carnival Deli, Snags and Pies and so much more.

At the buffet, there is always a soup option, roast meat choice, Indian option and some sort of potato dish, as well as more. There is also a salad bar and dessert area to go alongside your meals.

The majority of the time we actually ate upstairs in this buffet area due to the variety and the ease of serving ourselves. The food was hot, fresh and always the exact same as they serve in the main dining room. Though you can now try a little bit of each dish rather than just ordering one main.

Entertainment On Board The Carnival Spirit

Being onboard a ship at sea for a considerable length of time it is important that there is enough around to keep you busy. This was seriously a concern of mine as a first-time cruiser who is used to a different type of travel. Though, luckily the Carnival Spirit seemed to always have something on, no matter the time of day. There were a couple of paid entertainment options, though I didn’t do any of these. Therefore I will just be discussing the freebies.

Let’s start off with the nightly shows. These were absolutely freakin amazing and sometimes I went to both seatings as I wanted to see it again! On shorter cruises, you will just have the main entertainment staff singing and dancing in extravagant shows. Though, as we were doing a longer South Pacific Carnival Spirit Cruise, various entertainers would be flown to ports, join the ship for a couple of days, and then fly back home. This was great as it truly gave us a variety in which shows were on each night.

An unexpected highlight for me was actually the comedy shows. Usually, there were 3 of these per day and provided a good opportunity to let loose. They even had comedy for the children which was always a bit of fun with plenty of audience participation.

It was great being able to simply walk around the ship and always be able to find something to do or watch.

Serenity Adults Only Area

Lucky for us there were not too many kids on our South Pacific Carnival Cruise. Though, this is not always the case so it is good to have the Serenity area. This is adults only and the perfect place to retreat if you’re looking for a bit of peace and quiet. There is plenty of seating available, a pool, spa and of course a bar!

Hope you have enjoyed this Carnival Spirit Review. If you have any questions, just let me know in the comments!

LIKE IT? PIN IT!

Want more Cruise Inspiration? Check out…. COMING SOON

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. So, if you click on it and purchase something, I get a small percentage at no extra cost to you. As always all opinions are my own and your support is much appreciated.

Tasha Amy is a true backpacker at heart and has been discovering the world on a budget since 2015. Based in Gisborne, New Zealand she will spend many months each year traveling overseas as a solo female traveler before coming home and sharing her adventures online with you.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

The pre-purchase window for certain products and activities closes between one and three days prior to the sail date. If you missed the purchase window, check with us once you're on board — we'll help you find what you’re looking for.

The purchase window for certain products and activities closes before to the sail end date. If you missed the purchase window, check with us on board, we'll help you find what you’re looking for.

South Pacific

Already booked your cruise?

Log In  to shop food, entertainment and gifts for yourself or a friend!

Feeling Generous?

Give a gift to your friend going on one of our cruises!

• Carnival Cruise Lines

Review - Sydney to the South Pacific on the Splendor

By aussielozzie18 , May 25, 2023 in Carnival Cruise Lines

Recommended Posts

aussielozzie18

" Thank you for sharing your review with everyone at Cruise Critic. Please consider submitting it to the site for publication as well: Click: Write a Review . "

aussielozzie18 was awarded the badge 'Great Review'

Thought I’d do a mini review of my recent 9 day cruise and throw in a few photos - for anyone who might be interested.

In Australia at present, you have the option of Carnival Splendor sailing out of Sydney and Carnival Luminosa sailing out of Brisbane.

Guests are still required to be vaccinated and the Luminosa (new to Carnival from Costa) hasn’t been selling well due to the lack of water slides for families.

There have been some ridiculously cheap deals as a result.  Last December, my daughter and I did 7 day cruise from Brisbane on the Carnival Luminosa to the Great Barrier Reef.  Prices were so cheap I booked us adjacent solo balcony cabins and we had a great cruise and loved the Luminosa.  If we lived in Brisbane, we would have happily booked more cruises on her.

As a result of cruising on the Luminosa, I got an offer too good to refuse for 9 days sailing out of Sydney to the South Pacific on the Splendor for this month.

Link to comment

Share on other sites.

• 1 yr aussielozzie18 changed the title to Review - Sydney to the South Pacific on the Splendor

We usually cruise in our Australian summer.  This cruise was to be my first cruising in our autumn.  This was a packing dilemma.  Having not cruised  the Splendor before, wasn’t sure how cool the inside of the ship would be and expected the two sea days getting to Noumea (our first port) to be cool.

Luckily, I live relatively close the OPT because I was still “packing”  or if I’m honest - cramming stuff in my suitcase and hoping for the best - at 9am on the day of departure…

Arrived at Overseas Passenger Terminal (OPT) Circular  Quay at 11.30am.  I had selected a 12noon boarding time, when options opened 2 weeks prior.    

After dropping off my suitcase, I was permitted to go through.  Probably because I was a solo and there was a short space of time with no-one going through.

Currently, travel insurance that covers Covid is mandatory if you are cruising to the South Pacific. So signs up everywhere reminding us of this plus announcements as well.

Also, until two weeks ago, Carnival Australia cruisers were not permitted to take alcohol on board.  Thankfully this rule was finally changed so cruisers are  now permitted to carry on one bottle of wine or champagne on board.  Yay!

And you do need a self administered negative RATS test taken within 24hrs of boarding, with photo proof of ID and time (passport & the time displayed on another mobile phone).

So all boxes ticked, it was onto to border control, short wait of 10mins or so while they cleared the queues ahead, x-ray of your carry on and then you were on board the ship. Nice seamless process.

Next step was Muster Drill.  Lifejacket demo with staff member on outside deck in very small groups of 8 or so.

Got chatting to a lovely couple seated at the booth next to me.  I find cruisers very friendly to solos.

2022cruisey

Thank you for posting this.  We are going on the same cruise next month so I am grateful for the time you are putting into this review.

Off to explore ship.  As expected the decor is hideous. I was glad I was informed that Decks 5 and 9 were the only through decks (told to think of Dolly Parton 9-5) helped greatly with getting around the ship as a newbie.

Carnival Australia is hugely popular with families but this cruise was in school term, so less kiddos than normal.  But the ones on board, were straight to the slides.

Suitcases arrived at cabins before sailaway.  Then it was time to head to the main pool area for the sail away party with Lizzie “hello darlings”, the Cruise Director.

5 minutes ago, 2022cruisey said: Thank you for posting this.  We are going on the same cruise next month so I am grateful for the time you are putting into this review.

Excellent!  Hope you find it useful.  Feel free to ask any questions, I will try to answer…,

The adults only Serenity Deck

Popular slides

The iconic view

This little guy wanted to come along for the ride.

This is the reason I love living in Sydney.

Thanks for the review.

We've booked back to back cruises on the Splendor for August/September. Really looking forward to them. Brisbane is our home port so fortunate to try out Luminosa for three cruises - really enjoyed and great value.

Thanks for taking time to post your experience and great photos.

balcony bound

Love this, thanks!  Following along

LPGA Golfer Gal

Very excited to read a review of Splendor, Sydney (we are on GBR next month) - excited to hear about whether there are extra excursions/different excursions available once on board. Not a lot available online and no Reef excursions to the outer reef to be able to scuba dive. Looking forward to reading more. Thank you for doing this review

First night dinner, decided I wanted to try out the  Speciality Restaurant - Fahrenheit 555 @ $65.00pp.  You can pre book via email before the cruise but I decided to wanted to go that afternoon and had no problem getting a booking for 7pm.

As it was a quiet night there were no diners seated near me, so thankfully I bought a book that I was enjoying and that keep me happy between courses.

For entree: stuffed mushrooms

For main: Surf and Turf

For dessert:  Chocolate Sphere

Service was excellent.  A very pleasant relaxed meal with meals not rushed between courses.

I loved the surf & turf - steak & lobster.  I am going to say I may have made the wrong choice re the entree and dessert as they didn’t appeal.

Nevertheless, if I have an opportunity to cruise again on the  Luminosa, I am going to try their Fahrenheit 555.

I love the Carnival Hub App.  You don’t need internet to access it on board.  It’s very user friendly.  You see the daily activities, the menu for that evenings MDR, all your individual charges on your board account and all the Carnival Shore Excursions + the weather.

If you prefer a paper copy, Fun Times, it’s available at guest services, the onboard paid cafe - Java Blue and I am sure your room steward can source a daily copy also, if reqd.

Note: photo taken on last sea day at end of cruise when seas a tiny bit bumpy -hence sick bags.

Weather forecast on hub app on 1st full day at sea. Didn’t worry me, a wet day at sea is better than a dry day at work!  and weather changes….

Our first full sea day was wet.  Didn’t bother me as I was new to Splendour and wanted to explore, check out the shops and happy to attend any activities in the main theatre.

Shops on board - the usual - duty free liquor because we were going to the South Pacific.  The best place to buy duty free in the South Pacific is in Vila.  We weren’t going to Vila on this cruise but there is a duty free shop in Noumea.

Just an example of on board ship duty free - $76 aud.  You purchase,  it is stored for you and you receive it at the end of the cruise.

Effy jewellery.  Pandora jewellery was tax free and 25% off for first 24hrs.  Watches, perfume, small adventure store selling snorkeling/beach gear.

Carnival store sold merchandise, duty free alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, stuff you forgot to pack and handbags and a small selection of Billabong clothing and beach wear.   

I forgot to pack a hat 🤦‍♀️ so thankful a proper beach hat rather than just caps were available for purchase.

Drinks package $119.00 AUD pp, per day.  Maximum 15 drinks per day to max value of $20.   

Menu prices for  cocktails:

Cocktails from Alchemy Bar more expensive.

Red Frog Bar Menus

Had breakfast in the MDR dining room.  Not sure why but I preferred the Lido Buffet Breakfast on Deck 9 from Day 2 onwards.  Plenty of choices and always found a table.  Plenty of hot choices, they tasted better than they looked in my photo…

The paid cafe for coffee was very popular in the mornings.

For lunch I would have salads from the Lido Buffet.  Plenty of other options including the deli & masala tiger next to the Adults only pool deck 9 AFT, Guy Fieri Burgers & Pizza were popular next to main pool deck

Bought the 5 game pack for $35aud.  Didn’t win but fun to play.  Prizes for games 1 to 5 ranged from $100 - $750.00.

Dinner was in the MDR.  I had chosen “Your Time Dining” (can’t remember the actual term) Very easy to book a table via the Carnival Hub App.  Requested a table at around 5.30pm and it was ready within 10mins.  Walked up to entrance with my table number confirmation on my phone and seated straight away.

Tables of 2 are very close together.  Had a lovely couple sitting on the adjacent 2 top.    As I sat down, I apologised for being in their personal space but they smiled and

we had a lovely meal together and chatted throughout.  The meal in MDR was superb.

I unofficially heard there were 75 solos on this cruise. Below:  another  solo chatting with her adjacent dining companions upstairs  in the MDR.

Sea Day 2 - it was great to see the sun out.  Headed to a comfy long cane sofa on the Serenity Deck.  Shortly joined by one lady and then her friend.  Two solo cruisers travelling together and we had a pleasant couple of hours chatting and relaxing until lunchtime.  Had a toasted sandwich courtesy of the Deli a couple of steps away.

Serenity Deck was always busy.  The two spas were very popular. Above the Serenity Deck was more seating on Deck 10 AFT overlooking the Serenity Pool.  One side of this outdoor area on Deck 10 was the area permitted for smoking.

In the afternoon, the first of two High Teas on our cruise was held.

At lunchtime on boarding day, a waiter was wandering around the MDR advertising the High Tea - cost $20pp and taking bookings.

I made a booking.

Sandwiches and cakes for one.  Double these quantities for two.

Plenty of ladies booked the High Tea.

The food was nice.

Note:  The day before I boarded the cruise was Mother’s Day and my daughter had taken me to The Tea Room at the QVB for High Tea.  That was superb.  

The food Carnival served was nice but the overall experience just didn’t compare.

Glad I did it but probably wouldn’t do it again.

Have to say I hate the environmentally friendly straws.  They breakup before you’ve had 1/4 of your cocktail.

Next cruise, I’m bringing my own re-usable straws.

They annoyed me so much I switched from cocktails to wine…

Tonight’s dinner in the MDR, I had two friendly & chatty couples on the adjacent 2 x 2 tops so another enjoyable dinner.  Service was consistently good.

We also had the Captain’s toast in the atrium next to Guest Services.  Lizzy our cruise director individually introduced the leader of each dept on the ship. Last to be introduced was the Captain.  All staff had a glass of champagne each and raised their glass to toast.  I remember on another cruise line all the guests present would get a glass of champers to join in the toast….

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in

• Welcome to Cruise Critic
• New Cruisers
• Cruise Lines “A – O”
• Cruise Lines “P – Z”
• River Cruising
• Cruise Critic News & Features
• Digital Photography & Cruise Technology
• Special Interest Cruising
• Cruise Discussion Topics
• UK Cruising
• Australia & New Zealand Cruisers
• Canadian Cruisers
• North American Homeports
• Ports of Call
• Cruise Conversations

Announcements

• New to Cruise Critic? Join our Community!

Write Your Own Amazing Review !

Click this gorgeous photo by member SUPERstar777 to share your review!

Features & News

LauraS · Started 10 hours ago

LauraS · Started Tuesday at 08:46 PM

LauraS · Started Monday at 05:04 PM

LauraS · Started May 24

LauraS · Started May 23

• Existing user? Sign in OR Create an Account
• Find Your Roll Call
• Meet & Mingle
• Community Help Center
• All Activity
• Member Photo Albums
• Meet & Mingle Photos
• Favorite Cruise Memories
• Cruise Food Photos
• Cruise Ship Photos
• Ports of Call Photos
• Towel Animal Photos
• Amazing, Funny & Totally Awesome Cruise Photos
• Write a Review
• Live Cruise Reports
• Member Cruise Reviews
• Create New...

JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser.

• Login / Manage Trip
• Call  1 (800) 848-6172
• Request a Quote
• Tahiti & the Society Islands
• Society Islands & Tuamotus
• Cook Islands & Society Islands
• Marquesas, Tuamotus & Society Islands
• Fiji, Tonga, Cook & Society Islands
• Fiji to Bali (and reverse)
• More Society Islands & Tahiti
• Islands of the Marquesas & Tuamotus
• More Tuamotus & Society Islands
• Crossing Oceania: Fiji to Bali
• Immersive Indonesia: Singapore to Australia
• Crossing Melanesia: Australia to Fiji
• All Cruises
• Ports of Call
• Shore Excursions
• Extend Your Trip
• Specialty Items & Gifts
• Special Occasions
• SCUBA Diving
• Family Program
• Private Beaches
• Current Promotions
• Paul Gauguin Society
• Why Sail With Us?
• Extraordinary Value
• Awards & Accolades
• Blog: The Gauguin Insider
• Recent Renovations

THE GAUGUIN INSIDER

South Pacific Crossings: 5 Magical Destinations Beyond Tahiti

May 30, 2024

2025 Boutique Crossing Collection Destination Highlights

With their idyllic blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and tranquil ambience, the islands of French Polynesia have long captivated the imaginations of artists and authors, explorers and travelers. Yet beyond the rainforested beauty of the Marquesas that so enchanted painter Paul Gauguin, and the shores of Bora Bora whose beauty compelled James Michener to describe it as simply “the most beautiful island in the world,” the far-flung intrigue of archipelagos deep in the South Pacific tug on our curiosities with their own intriguing cultures, poignant histories, and catch-your-breath scenery.

Our 2025 Boutique Crossing Collection journeys deep into the realms of Melanesia and Indonesia on three unique 14- to 20-night voyages revealing the mysteries and wonders of these intriguing destinations. Here we share 5 of our favorite archipelagos:

The voyages in our Boutique Crossing Collection travel deep into the exotic waters of Melanesia and Indonesia. Welcomed by heartwarming smiles, ancient cultures, a thousand pagodas, and some dragons too, this will be a trip unlike any other. 

PAPUA NEW GUINEA (Melanesia)

One of the world’s least explored countries, Papua New Guinea has been called the “Land of the Unexpected.” In 2022, Forbes ranked it as the ninth most beautiful country in the world, citing its rich culture (over 850 languages are spoken here—more than any country on the planet!), traditions, and extraordinary nature.

A call in Alotau serves as the gateway to Papua New Guinea’s southeastern shore. This tropical haven is adorned with pristine beaches, lush rainforests, and vibrant coral reefs. Here is a world where tradition and nature intertwine seamlessly, and local people proudly share their rich cultural heritage with warm hospitality. Crystal-clear waters offer opportunities to encounter majestic sea turtles, and a venture inland reveals cascading waterfalls amidst untouched wilderness, inviting you to immerse yourself in nature's grandeur.

Deeply tied to their spirituality, traditional dance plays an important role in Papua New Guinea's cultural preservation; it is a way of sharing knowledge across generations.

Samarai Island , this once-thriving trading center holds echoes of history. Although evacuated and largely destroyed during World War II to prevent Japanese control of Papua New Guinea, the island has been lovingly rebuilt. Its serene pathways, spectacular marine life, and tranquil beaches provide a perfect blend of relaxation and exploration.

VANUATU (Melanesia)

Upon first seeing these islands in 1774, British explorer Captain James Cook promptly named them “New Hebrides” as their landscape reminded him of the Hebrides off the northwest coast of Scotland. In 1980, the archipelago became the independent Republic of Vanuatu within the Commonwealth.

With the sway of palm trees, its pristine white sand beaches and aqua blue waters as far as the eyes can see, Vanuatu extends an invitation to enjoy its little pocket of paradise.  

Espiritu Santo enchants with its palm-lined beaches, spring-fed swimming holes, lush rainforests, and majestic mountains. The island’s role in World War II adds a layer of historical importance to its natural beauty; it was here that Michener was inspired to write his 1947 short-story collection Tales of the South Pacific while stationed as a lieutenant commander in the US Navy during the war.

On the island of Éfaté lies Port Vila , Vanuatu’s vibrant capital. This tropical paradise is renowned for its pristine beaches, turquoise waters, and verdant landscapes. The Mele Cascades, a stunning series of tiered waterfalls, offer a refreshing retreat, while the Erakor Rainforest, with its winding trails and abundant wildlife, invites exploration. Colorful parrots, elusive kingfishers, tree-dwelling geckos, and dazzling butterflies make this rainforest their home.

Komodo Island is a place where ancient legends come to life. Part of the Komodo National Park, this island is famous for its namesake dragons—enormous lizards that roam its grassy savannahs. The park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is celebrated for its incredible biodiversity. Here you can marvel at the park's stunning palette of colors, from verdant green landscapes to sparkling white beaches and deep blue waters filled with corals.

The unique topography of Komodo Island is the perfect complement to its singular namesake and official resident-inhabitants, Komodo dragons.

On Java, Surabaya and Semarang offer contrasting experiences. Surabaya’s rich colonial history and bustling modernity provide a fascinating blend of the old and new. Meanwhile, Semarang, the capital of Central Java, captures Indonesia’s cultural richness. Ancient temples and riverside promenades invite exploration, and the city serves as the gateway to the iconic Borobudur (the world’s largest Buddhist temple) and Prambanan (Hindu) temples.

Known as the “Island of the Gods,” Bali's  timeless allure offers a rich tapestry of lush volcanic mountain slopes, rainforested jungles, and sublime beaches. In Ubud , you can explore temples, shrines, artisan workshops, galleries, and the Sacred Monkey Forest. Bali's beautiful beaches, lush landscapes, exotic culture, exquisite handicrafts, and captivating dance traditions have drawn travelers from around the world for decades.

SOLOMON ISLANDS (Melanesia)

One quickly realizes that visits to the Solomon Islands are for its underwater spectacle that can rival, or even exceed, its enchantments on land.

The largest of the Solomon Islands, Guadalcanal is steeped in history. Known for the pivotal six-month battle between Allied and Japanese forces during World War II, the island brims with relics, monuments, and memorials. Beyond its historical significance, its tropical interior offers excellent birdwatching, and its waters are revered for superior snorkeling and diving.

FIJI (Melanesia)

From steep mountain hikes to leisurely strolls along white sand beaches, Fiji offers a rendezvous with nature in whichever elevation you like.  (Photo Credit: TahitiTourisme)

Among the 300+ islands of the Fijian archipelago, the island of Viti Levu beckons with its blend of natural beauty and rich culture. In Lautoka , known as “Sugar City” due to the surrounding sugarcane fields, visitors can stroll along palm-lined streets and experience everyday life in traditional villages. Koroyanitu National Heritage Park offers lush greenery and panoramic views, perfect for hiking and immersing in Fiji’s natural splendor. But more than anything, the volcanic islands here are revered for their pristine, white-sand beaches and mesmerizing waters.

Join us aboard the m/s Paul Gauguin for an extraordinary voyage where each destination offers a harmonious blend of history, culture, and natural beauty, creating memories that will last a lifetime. Book your voyage now and start exploring the many off beaten paths of the world and find yourself in the heart of a brand new paradise. 

The Gauguin is honored to be part of the rich tapestry of the South Pacific.

PGC Blog ID 13592 

Latest Posts

Jaipur Elephant Parks-Eleday Sanctuary {Review}

Disney Cruise Ship Photograph {Key West}

[email protected].

1-677-124-44227

Gr8 Travel Tips

Royal caribbean south pacific cruise {review}.

Post Last Modified – February 25, 2024 ¦ gr8traveltips.com

✈ Certain products/services may have affiliate links for which I may receive a small commission. There is no cost to you whatsoever. 🛳

A Review Of Our Royal Caribbean South Pacific Cruise

Table of Contents

On our first visit to Australia a few seasons ago, we included an amazing …

🌺 Royal Caribbean South Pacific Cruise 🌺

in our travel plans. This particular cruise departed from the beautiful; ⚓ Sydney Harbor in Australia. The cruise we chose, made stops at some stunning tropical destinations in the 🏝 South Pacific.

Our 11 night cruise was in the month of February and we were on board Royal Caribbean’s …

“🛳 Rhapsody of the Seas. 🛳”

This was most certainly, one of the main highlights of our Australia vacation. It was a fabulous cruise with absolutely perfect weather, friendly staff and amazing food the entire voyage!

First, check out my short 📹 video clip of the views you will experience in Sydney, Australia’s beautiful harbor!

Sydney Harbour Australia – YouTube Video

🌷 Get Gr8 Deals On Popular Attractions In Sydney 🌷

🌅 Discover Sydney – Australia! 🌅

Be sure to spend a few nights in Sydney, as there’s so much to see and do in and around the city!

Our 11 Night Royal Caribbean South Pacific Cruise

If you make your own off shore excursion arrangements, it is your responsibility to be back at the ship before departure. The ship will not wait for you if you’re late! 🙁

 A Pleasant Day In Noumea On Our Royal Caribbean South Pacific Cruise

Royal Caribbean South Pacific Cruise – 1st Port of Call

Luganville – Vanuatu

Royal Caribbean South Pacific Cruise – 3rd Port of Call

We did not go to the more built up and commercialized; “Nanda Blue Hole,” but to a smaller hidden piece of 🌺 paradise our driver picked out for us.

Inside the hotel, the walls were decorated with some lovely paintings from local artists.

It was a nice break for lunch, but we were anxious to get on with the tour, as our driver and others were having a siesta! 😴

Survivor Reality Television Series – Vanuatu

I highly recommend including some sort of cruise vacation into your holiday plans when visiting Australia. 🗺

Be sure to check out the {Google Map} box at the bottom of this post for Sydney Australia’s exact location. 🗺

👣 Footnote 👣

🛟 Take An Exciting Cruise Vacation 🛟

If you like to book on your own, check out this very reputable online booking website I use with excellent results …

🛡 I Only Endorse Products/Services That Can Be Trusted & Verified &/Or That I’ve Personally Used! 🛡

😎 Safe and Healthy Travels! 😎

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Travel Blogger | Book Reviews (@gr8traveltips)

“The ‘Lido Deck’ Dates Back To Multi-Class Ocean Travel And Was Known As The Pool And Sun Deck Area For Use By First Class Passengers Only.”

🌺 Let’s Get Social On Your Favorite Social Media Platform! 🌺

📸    Best Tourist Attractions In Sydney Australia

🌊    Spending A Day At Bondi Beach – Sydney Australia

🚢    Finding The Best Cruise Deals – Helpful Tips

📬 📬

📧 Get My Monthly Post Update – Right To Your Inbox 📧

🍹  Don’t Forget It … Be Sure To Pin It! 🍹 

📧 Subscribe to {Cruise Lines} email newsletters for latest cruise deals. 📧

💵 The Australian Dollar is the official currency of Australia. 💵

A Blogger Since 2012, Robert has a {Passion for Travel}, having worked in the industry for over 35 years. He enjoys sharing special moments & tips on; Travel, Health & Wellness, Book Reviews and much more!

Boeing Dreamliner Safe Flying ...

Tourist scams in mexico city {....

• Favorites & Watchlist Find a Cruise Cruise Deals Cruise Ships Destinations Manage My Cruise​ FAQ Perfect Day at CocoCay Weekend Cruises Crown & Anchor Society Cruising Guides Gift Cards Contact Us Royal Caribbean Group
• Back to Main Menu
• Search Cruises " id="rciHeaderSideNavSubmenu-2-1" class="headerSidenav__link" href="/cruises" target="_self"> Search Cruises
• Cruise Deals
• Weekend Cruises
• Last Minute Cruises
• Family Cruises​
• 2024-2025 Cruises
• All Cruise Ships " id="rciHeaderSideNavSubmenu-4-1" class="headerSidenav__link" href="/cruise-ships" target="_self"> All Cruise Ships
• Cruise Dining
• Onboard Activities
• Cruise Rooms
• The Cruise Experience
• All Cruise Destinations " id="rciHeaderSideNavSubmenu-5-1" class="headerSidenav__link" href="/cruise-destinations" target="_self"> All Cruise Destinations
• Cruise Ports
• Shore Excursions
• Perfect Day at CocoCay
• Caribbean Cruises
• Bahamas Cruises​
• Alaska Cruises
• European Cruises​
• Mediterranean Cruises​
• Royal Destinations
• Cruise Planner
• Make a Payment
• Check-In for My Cruise
• Beverage Packages​
• Shore Excursions​
• Update Guest Information
• Book a Flight
• Dining Packages​
• Royal Gifts
• Required Travel Documents
• Transportation
• Book a Hotel
• Redeem Cruise Credit
• All FAQs " id="rciHeaderSideNavSubmenu-7-1" class="headerSidenav__link" href="/faq" target="_self"> All FAQs
• Boarding Requirements
• Future Cruise Credit​
• Travel Documents​
• Check-in​ & Boarding Pass
• Transportation​
• Perfect Day at CocoCay​
• Post-Cruise Inquiries
• Royal Caribbean
• Celebrity Cruises

9 Night South Pacific Cruise

Your ship ovation of the seas.

SPACE AGE SURPRISES

North Star ®

Splashaway Bay℠

RipCord ® by iFLY ®

Bumper Cars

A full-on flavor fest.

Jamie's Italian by Jamie Oliver

Coastal Kitchen

Fish & Ships℠

An adventure onstage.

Bionic Bar ®

Live. Love. Legs.

Day 1: sydney, australia.

Go in Circles

Walk Watsons

Local Cuisine

Day 2 - 3: Cruising

FlowRider ®

Adventure Ocean ®

Rock Climbing Wall

Day 4: noumea, new caledonia.

popular Shore Excursions

Amazing experiences coming soon..

Wet and Wild

Walk With Nature

Kanak Culture Lesson

Day 5: Mystery Island, Vanuatu

Go on a Coral Safari

What's SUP?

Embrace the Escape

Day 6: Port Vila, Vanuatu

One for the History Books

Natural Heat Remedy

Find the Perfect Hideaway

Day 7 - 9: Cruising

Chops Grille℠

La Patisserie

The Café @ Two70

Day 10: sydney, australia.

This is the announcement bar for Poornima to test the Close Button.  It will expire May 31 2024.

• Pre-Cruise FAQ
• Onboard FAQ
• Post-Cruise FAQ
• Cruisetours FAQ
• Special Offers Sign Up
• Cruise Deals

You have been logged out

Your window will update in 5 secs

Tahiti, French Polynesia & South Pacific Cruises

Enchanting isles cast a magical, mesmerizing spell.

There’s more than one paradise to be found on a South Pacific cruise. It’s where hidden jewels like “Mystery Island” and the Tuamotu Archipelago invite exploration. Take a Tahiti cruise, and other South Pacific cruises and you’ll not only discover the pearls of the South Pacific, you’ll also be introduced to its wonderful color, culture and flavors through unique programs on board and ashore that will change you forever.

Cruise Tahiti & French Polynesia

Enjoy the welcoming spirit and the idyllic islands of French Polynesia, sailing from Tahiti. You’ll discover sparkling lagoons and pristine beaches with overnight stays in Bora Bora, Papeete and a late-night stay in Raiatea.

Cruise The South Pacific

The South Pacific is full of treasures including Papua New Guinea, Fiji, & Vanuatu. Each island shares stunning natural beauty, colorful cultures and rich histories making cruising the best way to experience these enchanting locales.

Book now for our Best. Sale. Ever. with drinks†, wi-fi‡‡ and gratuities‡ included! View Deals

Why Cruise Tahiti & French Polynesia?

Tahiti & French Polynesia cruise highlights

Simply paradise

Rimmed by coral reefs, aquamarine lagoons and pristine beaches, the French Polynesian islands have lured those seeking paradise for centuries. Tahiti is the largest of the chain, and its capital, Papeete, is a great base from which it explore its treasures. Gorgeous Moorea, with awe-inspiring vistas from the top of its mounts, to the less frequented yet stunning destinations of Rangiroa and Raiatea; Bora Bora, the cradle of Polynesian culture, and Huahine, two pristine islands connected by a graceful bridge.

Ultimate water playground

The waters of French Polynesia have been called the richest aquarium on Earth, teeming with stunning snorkeling and diving experiences with reef sharks, rays and more. Its crystal-clear waters are home to the most exquisitely colored pearls in the world. Enjoy the island’s wonders on a catamaran to Moorea’s top snorkel spots. Spy Bora Bora’s under-the-sea wonders on a glass-bottom boat, and visit the freshwater eels of Huahine – where you can feed them by hand.

More time to discover these jewels

With our More Ashore program, guests enjoy more time to explore these tropical playgrounds. Enjoy a late-night departure from Raiatea and overnight experiences in beautiful Bora Bora and Tahiti. Indulge in the regional cuisine, sip vanilla-infused cocktails, and dance to Polynesian music under stars that shine more brightly than any place on Earth.

Why Cruise the South Pacific?

South Pacific cruise highlights

History & culture

Explore the life, culture, history and tradition the South Pacific as, a traditional village as it comes to life with tribal chants, see fire walking in Port Vila, and discover the Māori world of myths and legends while enjoying a delectable feast in Tauranga .

Natural wonders

Witness the amazing diversity of colored reef fish while snorkeling or scuba diving in the crystalline waters of the Isles of Pines, enjoy the sparkling beaches of Champagne Bay, and be in awe of the atoll of the Conflict Islands in Papua New Guinea.

Taste the local flavors

Savor authentic regional tastes created by our chefs and influenced by the destinations you are visiting, such as an exotic papaya & banana soufflé, Polynesian chicken pupu, grilled Wahoo fillet with mango salsa or even a traditional Hangi dinner.

Award-Winning shore excursions

See more of the South Pacific ashore with our award-winning shore excursions. Take a scenic drive and visit the renowned “Aquarium des Lagons” in Noumea, or go on a fishing expedition in Port Denarau.

2024 - 2025 Tahiti, French Polynesia & South Pacific New Cruise Itineraries. Learn more

Tahiti, French Polynesia & South Pacific Cruise Travel Articles

Sail from Sydney, Brisbane, or Melbourne to the Isles of the South Pacific. Experience what it’s like to be pampered in paradise.

Finding "Bula" in Fiji

Like the Hawaiian "aloha," “bula” in Fiji is a welcoming sign of love, friendship and good health.

South Pacific Cruises: 4 Bora Bora Facts That You Didn't Know

Bora Bora, tucked in the shadow of Mount Otemanu is Bora Bora, is a popular cruise destination for people who truly want to surround themselves with natural beauty.

3 Unique Moorea Excursions to Embark On

The beautiful island of Moorea is your gateway to the wonderful and varied South Pacific shore excursions that you'll be able to experience in Polynesia.

Insider's Travel Guide to Tahiti: 5 Tips for Traveling in Tahiti

Use this Tahiti travel guide from Princess to plan your trip today. Get five tips to enhance your travels in Tahiti and make it an unforgettable experience.

Travel, Airfare, & Hotels: Let Princess Get You There

Princess EZair® Flights

Stress-free airfare

Remove the hassle from air travel and give yourself the gift of flexibility, time, and a thicker wallet with Princess EZair flights. We negotiate lower rates with the airlines, allow you to modify your flight up to 45 days prior with no penalty, and protect you if your flight is late or canceled.

EZair flight quotes are available on our cruise search result details pages.

Airplane to Ship Transfer

We get you where you need to go

Let Princess pick you up from the airport and take you directly to your ship or hotel when you arrive, even if you didn't book your airfare through us. A uniformed Princess representative meets you at the airport after you've retrieved your luggage and transports you directly to your ship or hotel without you having to worry about the logistics of navigating a new city.

Cruise Plus Hotel Packages

Stay longer and relax

Extend your cruise vacation, and simplify your travel plans with a hotel stay at the beginning or end of your cruise. With a Cruise Plus Hotel Package, a Princess representative meets you at the airport and pier, transporting you to and from your hotel. The package includes the cost of your hotel stay, transportation, luggage handling, and the representative’s services.

Need help planning?

Princess Cruise Vacation Planners are a dedicated resource to help you every step of the way through the planning process of your cruise vacation. The best part is, their services are completely FREE!

Cruise deals & promotions

Find our top sales, deals, partnerships and promotions for our destinations all in one place. We run promotions throughout the year and sometimes run sweepstakes where you can win prizes!

The Most Popular Cruise Destinations- Ranked

W ondering where to go on a cruise? Cruising is a popular way to vacation. It’s so popular that many people become addicted to cruising. According to data from the cruise industry, 82% of previous cruisers plan to cruise again, with 10% setting sail 3-5 times a year! But where are they cruising to? Below, you’ll find the most popular cruise destinations based on a survey conducted by the cruise industry.

The Most Popular Cruise Destinations Ranked

1. caribbean cruises.

The Caribbean, Bahamas, and Bermuda are by far the most popular cruise destinations. In 2023, the number of passengers going on cruises to these destinations reached 12.9 million, representing a 7.3% increase from 2019. That’s almost 1 million more passengers! 

The popularity of Caribbean cruises is no surprise, given the accessibility from various US ports such as Boston, New York, Charlotte, SC, Norfolk, VA, Baltimore, MD, New Orleans, Galveston, TX, and Florida. You can’t beat the convenience of driving to a cruise port and going on an all-inclusive tropical island vacation without having to fly.

2. Mediterranean Cruises

The Mediterranean was the second most popular cruise destination. In 2023, 5.5 million passengers went on a Mediterranean cruise, a 23% increase from 2019. 

Going on a Mediterranean cruise is one of the easiest ways to explore Europe. For example, an Eastern Mediterranean cruise is an effortless way to visit multiple Greek islands without the hassle of packing and unpacking. Otherwise, you’d have to deal with ferry rides between Greek islands, which can be quite cumbersome when managing luggage and coordinating hotel stays.

3. Europe Cruises (Non-Mediterranean)

Europe cruises, including Baltic and British Isle cruises, ranked as the third most popular cruise destination. In 2023, there were 3 million cruise passengers on non-Mediterranean European cruises, a 6.6% increase from 2019.

4. Asia and China Cruises

The Asia and China cruise destinations are ranked as the fourth most popular choice for cruises. In 2023, approximately 2.6 million passengers went on an Asia or China cruise. Although this is a 35.6% decrease from 2019, likely attributed to the impact of the pandemic.

5. Alaska Cruises

Alaska cruises came in as the fifth most popular cruise destination. In 2023, a staggering 1.7 million passengers went on an Alaska cruise, which is a substantial 35.8% increase from 2019. 

The growing appeal of Alaska cruises is understandable, considering that Alaska’s road infrastructure is inadequate for a road trip and often requires seaplane travel between cities. Going on a cruise remains the most convenient and cost-effective way to explore Alaska.

6. California/Mexico Cruises

The Pacific Coast, California, and Mexico cruises emerged as the sixth most sought-after cruise destination. In 2023, the number of California/Mexico cruise passengers reached 1.4 million, a 24.1% increase from 2019. The appeal of being able to drive to a nearby cruise port for a vacation contributes to the attractiveness of cruising for many West Coast cruisers.

7. Australia/New Zealand/Pacific Cruises

Australia, New Zealand, and Pacific cruises were the seventh most popular cruise destinations. In 2023, there were 1.3 million cruise passengers, an 8.4% increase from 2019. 

8. South America and Panama Canal Cruises

South America and Panama Canal cruises were the 8th most popular cruise destinations. In 2023, the number of passengers on these cruises reached 1.1 million, a 34% increase from 2019.

9. Africa and Middle East Cruises

Africa and Middle East cruises came in as the 9th most popular cruise destination. In 2023, there were 539,000 cruise passengers sailing the Africa and Middle East cruises. That’s a 4.6% increase from 2019.

10. Transatlantic Cruises

The least popular cruise destination turned out to be transatlantic cruises. In 2023, 367,900 passengers went on transatlantic cruises, which is a 3.1% increase from 2019. This is not surprising, considering that transatlantic cruises tend to be longer and usually take place during off-peak seasons, making them less accessible to many people. Do you have an upcoming cruise? Here are 10 Things to Never do in Cruise Ports

Check out these free cruise printables

Caribbean cruise packing list

Alaska cruise packing list

15 Caribbean Cruise Mistakes to Avoid

Most Dangerous Cruise Ports in the World

10 Walkable Cruise Ports You’ll Fall in Love With

11 Anti-Theft Cruise Tips that Every Cruiser Needs to Know

The post The Most Popular Cruise Destinations- Ranked appeared first on Suburbs 101 .

Advertisement

More from the Review

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Best of The New York Review, plus books, events, and other items of interest

June 20, 2024

Current Issue

‘You’ve Got to Be Carefully Taught’

June 20, 2024 issue

CBS Photo Archive/Getty Images

Richard Rodgers, Julie Andrews, and Oscar Hammerstein II in rehearsals for the televised production of Cinderella , 1957

Submit a letter:

Email us [email protected]

Oscar Hammerstein II and the Invention of the Musical

Shy: The Alarmingly Outspoken Memoirs of Mary Rodgers

In the middle of the twentieth century Richard Rodgers and Oscar Hammerstein II were kings of American culture. Almost two thirds of the country tuned in on March 31, 1957, to watch the live broadcast of their made-for-television musical Cinderella —expanding the dominion they had established over the previous fourteen years on Broadway with Oklahoma! , Carousel , South Pacific , and The King and I . Critically acclaimed, popular, and obscenely lucrative, these shows effected a sea change in American musical theater from musical comedy (songs, jokes, and dance loosely collected around a plot) to the musical play (character-driven songs and sometimes dance integrated into a coherent story) that Rodgers and Hammerstein invented.

But by the time of their final work together— The Sound of Music , which debuted in 1959, the year before Hammerstein died of cancer—a critical backlash had begun. Hammerstein’s plainspoken lyrics, centered on love and optimism, full of raindrops on roses and sometimes as corny as Kansas in August, were derided as unsophisticated, sentimental, square. The Rodgers and Hammerstein model was soon usurped by new modes, especially those of the more jaded, ironic, and formally adventurous work of Hammerstein’s protégé, Stephen Sondheim. The American musical became less widely popular. More recently, the art and lives of Rodgers and Hammerstein have undergone the scrutiny applied to many other once-revered white men and their once-central work. Their musicals are still frequently performed, still seen and heard and loved, but in this censorious era their reputations have been unsettled.

This is why Laurie Winer’s recent biography, Oscar Hammerstein II and the Invention of the Musical , starts on the defensive. In an introduction titled “An Unfashionable Take on an Unfashionable Man,” Winer, a critic who calls theater her religion, swings somewhat wildly at various criticisms of her subject: that his lyrics are artless; that he was a naif, blind to dark truths; that he was villainously greedy; that he was dully inferior to Rodgers’s first lyricist partner, Lorenz Hart. These are mostly straw men, and as Winer gets needlessly entangled in the “great man” theory of history and the philosophical pragmatism of William James, the strain makes for an anxious and off-putting start to what turns out to be a smart and insightful book.

Clearly, Winer has read all the other books on the subject, studied all the shows, pored over the reams of letters Hammerstein left behind. 1 Compared with a more foursquare take like Todd Purdum’s well-researched, well-organized Something Wonderful: Rodgers and Hammerstein’s Broadway Revolution (2018), Winer’s is digressive and scattershot. But she has an intuitive grasp of Hammerstein’s aesthetic and character. She gets him. Looking back at his old-fashioned virtues and failings from a distance, like a wised-up but affectionate grandchild, she helps us see, as she puts it, “the mortal who made the immortal work” as “a man of his time, if not entirely for ours.”

Winer presents Hammerstein as “a classic fortunate son…petted and loved almost from the cradle to the grave.” His paternal grandfather and namesake, Oscar Hammerstein I, was a “flamboyant impresario,” a German immigrant to New York who made money in cigars and spent it all on opera and opera houses. His father managed a major vaudeville theater. Oscar II, born in 1895, was close to his mother, who died from an infection following a botched abortion when he was fifteen. “From then on Hammerstein opposed grief as a matter of principle,” Winer writes. His life and work were about looking past that kind of pain, walking through the storm with your head up high.

At Columbia University in the 1910s, Hammerstein was already writing for the Varsity Show, and soon he quit law school to join the family business as a playwright and librettist. The libretti, or books, of the musical comedies of the time were slapdash. “What counted was the music and the jokes and the talents of the cast,” Hammerstein explained in an interview. “We accepted the book as a device for leading into songs.”

Working with the more experienced librettist Otto Harbach, Hammerstein learned the conventions of the day, but Harbach also taught him to construct his stories with care. They worked mainly in operetta, then a popular mode, with plots and manners imported from Europe, and found much box office success. But Hammerstein longed for something else, more operatic than musical comedy but more believable than opera, and American in theme and style. That’s what he created in 1927 with the composer Jerome Kern: Show Boat .

Winer calls Show Boat “the most revolutionary show in the history of the genre,” which isn’t hyperbole but a standard judgment. In its epic scope, realist treatment of a weighty American subject (one of the weightiest, race), and sophisticated intertwining of music and story, Show Boat radically expanded the aesthetic possibilities of the American musical. Winer illuminates Hammerstein’s achievement by explaining how deftly he adapted Edna Ferber’s thick novel about the white and Black employees of a Mississippi River showboat, finding ways for the story to be coherent and songful, partly by choosing scenes in which the characters have reasons to sing. For the first hour, she writes, “a listener may be hardly aware of the difference between music, lyrics, and dialogue.” Hammerstein’s altered ending, “a deeply emotional masterpiece of theatricality,” tilts toward redemption by reuniting the estranged central couple and reprising the score’s deepest song, “Ol’ Man River.”

How to account for this leap in artistry? Winer, in the spirit of her subject, pegs it to falling in love. In March 1927, on the deck of a luxury liner bound for London, the thirty-one-year-old Hammerstein, traveling without his wife, Myra, met and felt an instant connection to the twenty-eight-year-old actress Dorothy Jacobson, already on her second marriage. It was some enchanted morning. During the two years it took for them to detach from their spouses, Hammerstein learned that Myra had been unfaithful, news that sent him into a sanatorium for a few weeks. But by 1929 he and Dorothy were wed, and he had found a version of matrimonial contentment a little more complicated than what he would depict in his shows but nevertheless true and lasting.

The achievement of Show Boat , however, did not immediately lead to professional satisfaction. He spent much of the 1930s in Hollywood, subject to the whims of studio producers, cycling through ambitious hope and disillusionment. “Because his gift was for narrative integrity, Hammerstein was destined to be ground up by the filmmaking process,” Winer writes astutely. He returned to Broadway, but with a flop. Quoting Hammerstein’s advice-filled letters to colleagues and family members, Winer shows him staying determinedly buoyant. That whistle-a-happy-tune buoyancy, Winer writes, would “become the standard engine of the musical play.”

Richard Rodgers didn’t have to learn the same lessons. A few years younger than Hammerstein, he teamed up with Lorenz Hart while an undergrad at Columbia in 1920. Almost immediately they started creating a large portion of what became the American Songbook, Rodgers’s fecund musical gifts (“He pees melody,” quipped Noël Coward) married to Hart’s rueful wit. Though in 1930s Hollywood they faced frustrations similar to Hammerstein’s, their return to Broadway produced hit show after hit show— Babes in Arms , Pal Joey —packed with hit songs like “My Funny Valentine.” The trouble was Hart, a closeted gay man who drowned his self-loathing in booze. Rodgers wanted a more stable partner and a librettist-lyricist of greater substance. Hammerstein, despite his recent failures, fit the description.

With Oklahoma! , they picked up on the precedent of Show Boat and popularized the kind of musical that followed Hammerstein’s maxim: “The song is the servant of the play.” Where most musicals had opened with pretty chorus girls, this one started with a lone cowboy singing about a bright golden haze on the meadow. Hammerstein’s simple lyrics, much less sparkling when read than Hart’s or Cole Porter’s, took flight on Rodgers’s lilting, instantly memorable melodies. Integrating words and music into a dramatic form more like a play, the team produced a show that would prove much more durable than most of the flimsy musicals that preceded it.

Winer retells the usual story of this period, during which the team pushed their style further in the unlikely Carousel , with its unpromising subject matter (theft, spousal abuse, parental neglect) and sustained musical scenes. She registers their aesthetic retreat after the unpopular experiment Allegro— which follows a doctor from birth and childhood through marriage, medical school, and middle age, using abstract sets and a Greek chorus — and notes the way their partnership came to resemble a corporation. More originally, she addresses now troubling aspects of each major Hammerstein work by describing and discussing recent productions, like Nicholas Hytner’s 1992 Carousel , which helped revive the team’s reputation, and the darkly revisionist Oklahoma! that Daniel Fish directed on Broadway in 2019, demonstrating that the shows still find audiences while examining how directors adjust to contemporary mores.

Winer doesn’t go easy on Hammerstein. She recognizes the pervasive orientalism in his stories and songs. She’s forthright about Carmen Jones , the all-Black adaptation of the Bizet opera Carmen that he made without Rodgers, flagging “racism of which he is entirely unaware,” a condescension that “bleeds into the show in all kinds of ways.” She calls out the absurdity in Allegro —“so blithe in its assumptions about gender roles that it could have been written before the author was born”—quoting the lyrics that suggest a fellow needs a girl “To sit by his side/And listen to him talk/And agree with the things he’ll say.” Winer sees her subject as a man who “never conceived of or condoned a life lived outside the system, for he was too much a beneficiary of it.”

Recognizing Hammerstein’s limitations, Winer is better able to help us appreciate his gifts. She accurately identifies him as “a poet of the anticipation of joy.” This is the special meaning of one of the most common words in his lexicon: dream . In “A Kiss to Build a Dream On,” “When I Grow Too Old to Dream,” “I Have Dreamed,” and many more songs, the important pleasure is proleptic, imagined in advance. If you don’t have a dream, how you gonna have a dream come true?

Despite the gender assumptions in Allegro , Winer sees the other social commentary in the show, poking fun at the sped-up shallowness of modern life, as the kind “at which Hammerstein excelled: recognizably true and spooned out softly enough so that each member of the audience can be sure it’s about someone else.” She similarly appreciates the calibration of criticism and comfort in South Pacific , whose white American characters have to confront their own racism, as in the then-controversial song “You’ve Got to Be Carefully Taught,” which locates the origin of racial hatred in the indoctrination of children. The show, she writes, “brilliantly reassures us of our essential decency, and only then does it make its statement—that, unless we are vigilant about the enemy within, our decency as well as our democracy can be lost.” Hammerstein, she says, “knew how to challenge with one hand and give tribute with the other.”

While Winer’s book isn’t hagiography, it is, like its subject, in favor of redemption. About Carousel , which Winer calls “a treatise on the messiness of forgiveness,” she writes that “our tears fall as an answer to the ever-evolving question: Can we forgive ourselves, each other, and the artists who still have something to say, no matter how imperfect we all might be?” She’s careful to emphasize Hammerstein’s late-life advocacy against housing discrimination and she stresses, over and over, that his work “appeals to the best in human nature.”

Throughout, Winer keeps Hammerstein in a more flattering light by contrasting him with Rodgers. Yes, both were complicit in cheating the director Joshua Logan out of author royalties for South Pacific , which they wrote together, but Winer spends pages detailing Rodgers’s cruelty to Logan, who worshiped him, and his minimization of Logan’s contributions even decades later. Yes, Hammerstein seems to have had a late-career dalliance with Temple Texas, a chorus girl half his age, but what’s that in comparison to the ever-randy Rodgers, who, as the choreographer Agnes de Mille memorably phrased it, used women “like a piece of toilet paper”?

Winer gives attention to the men’s wives, both interior designers named Dorothy, and to their parenting. Yes, Hammerstein “practiced the noblesse oblige style of 1940s upper-class fathering,” and according to his son Billy could express love only in his work. But such fault-finding pales next to that of Rodgers’s daughter Mary. Here she is on the time her father was having an affair with an actress in The King and I , in a room at the theater he always had reserved for such purposes, when he made that actress late for rehearsal: “He promised to cover for her but didn’t and she was fired. Shitty way to treat someone you supposedly cared about. To say nothing of your wife.”

There’s a lot more where that comes from in Shy: The Alarmingly Outspoken Memoirs of Mary Rodgers . Where Winer’s book starts on defense, Rodgers’s kicks off on the attack, scoring points while describing an ear-training game that her father played with her and her sister, Linda:

I later learned that this was a routine exercise in elementary music theory classes, universally considered boring. But Linda and I liked it because Daddy seemed to like us when we answered correctly. And to like himself for having taught us so well. Neither of which likings we saw much evidence of otherwise.

“What I wanted, desperately, was my parents’ affection, but it wasn’t there to be gotten,” she says. Her father “hated having his time wasted with intangible things like emotions.” Her mother, “even more fanatical about appearances than he,” was “frozen,” a pampered and antisemitic Jew, a controlling hypocrite who hid secrets like her husband’s infidelity and alcoholism behind an elegant façade. “Pretense, lies, hypocrisy,” Rodgers writes. “Put it in Latin and you’ve got a family crest.”

This is the sound of Shy : pull-no-punches, punch line after punch line. It is essentially an edited transcript of Rodgers, who died in 2014, recounting her life to Jesse Green, the chief theater critic for The New York Times . Green arranged the results and added footnotes that identify people and keep a parallel stream of jokes flowing along the bottom of the pages. One self-aware bit down there proposes alternative titles for the book. “Where Was I?” mocks the conversational rambling that is part of the book’s charm. “What Do You Really Think?” is a deadpan comment on what Green calls Rodgers’s “knee-jerk transparency.”

Shy is much more than a daughter’s memoir. Mary Rodgers was herself an accomplished musical theater composer. The ironic title comes from an ironic song in Once Upon a Mattress , her popular 1958 musical adaptation of The Princess and the Pea . (The recent City Center Encores! revival of this terrific show, headed to Broadway this summer, is a reminder of her abundant talent.) Rodgers describes the show’s heroine, a breakout role for Carol Burnett, as

a big, awkward, loudmouth princess, born to royalty but nevertheless a misfit, likable but unsure of herself. Despite her exalted provenance, she has to outwit a vain and icy queen to get what she wants and live happily ever after.

The kicker: “Story of my life.”

The sections about the creation of that show have all the excitement, all the love of theater and theater people, that you find in classic showbiz memoirs, except that the frazzled artist finding her voice and struggling to get her songs heard is a divorced mother of three who needs a babysitter. Along with the dryly delivered insider dish on the sex, drugs, and secrets of her milieu, much of the fascination and import of Shy lies in the exceedingly rare perspective of a woman in an industry dominated by men like her father (who always encouraged her composing).

Compared with the story of her father’s career, hers is a struggle all the way through, with more bombs and never-produced projects than successes. Her version of Hammerstein’s fortunate-son buoyancy is “learning to swerve.” That’s how she found a second career as a writer of children’s books, including Freaky Friday , a swerve that led to another—writing screenplays in Hollywood, an episode she calls the “most mortifying” part of her tale. At least that she had in common with Hammerstein (whom she calls kind, generous, principled, but “no saint”).

Hers is the messy, affecting story of a woman in the postwar period, “a woman who tried everything,” stumbling to find “more honest ways to live.” She married a closeted gay man (“everyone should marry a gay man at least once”) and divorced him after he started hitting her. She slept around (her phrase) and almost married some other gay men. She, who considered childhood “the most miserable punishment exacted upon anybody,” had a total of six children. 2 When, more than halfway through the book, she settles into a lasting second marriage, to the film executive and theater producer Henry Guettel, she aptly describes it as “like finding your way home in a song, after the bridge.”

In her eighties, armed with hindsight and wisdom, she’s as tough on herself as she is on everyone else, calling out her own bad behavior, delusions, and complicity. But she’s also forgiving, or at least understanding. She acknowledges that her parents generally did the right thing during the big crises in her life, even if “it doesn’t even out” because “there weren’t as many big things as little.”

Shy puts on the page a person in full, and its cumulative message is what Green says Rodgers wanted it to be: “You could have a good life without being dull and without being perfect or great.” Still, the book has a special spark whenever it touches on a certain male genius of musical theater. Not Richard Rogers. Stephen Sondheim.

“The love of my life” is what she calls Sondheim. They met in 1944 at the Hammersteins’ farm in Pennsylvania, where Sondheim, who lived nearby and was friends with one of the Hammerstein boys, spent so much time that he was practically adopted. 3 He was fourteen, Mary thirteen. Watching the brilliant boy beat her at chess and show off on the piano, Mary was enchanted. “I thought I would never be as infatuated with anyone again. Which turned out to be true.”

As young adults, they became friends and wrote music together. They were gossiping under her father’s piano when Sondheim told her he was probably gay. As she married and divorced and played the field, she found other men wanting because they weren’t him. Eventually, when they both were around thirty, she wrote him a “shit-or-get-off-the-pot letter,” and they entered what she calls a trial marriage.

This is no doubt the juiciest revelation in the book, and it is a sad, painful episode: the two of them, side by side in bed, doing nothing; Mary sneaking home in the morning before her kids woke up. He wasn’t in love with her, she says. She wasn’t physically attracted to him. “I just loved him, thoroughly enough for nothing else to matter. Do you not believe in that? Have you never seen Carousel ?” It couldn’t work. She swerved on with her life.

But they stayed friends. It was she who pushed Sondheim together with her father after the death of Hammerstein, who had been Sondheim’s surrogate father and most important mentor. A Rodgers–Sondheim collaboration was also Hammerstein’s expressed wish. It turned out to be acrimonious, and the resulting show, Do I Hear a Waltz? , was middling, but it did occasion from Sondheim some wickedly cynical, Hart-like lyrics about falsity in marriages like that of the Rodgerses. 4

Soon after, when Sondheim was writing a show about marriage and commitment, he needed to learn from someone with experience, so he talked with Mary and took notes. Her attitudes toward marriage—hers, her parents’, and maybe whatever she and Sondheim had, the attitudes we hear in Shy —are all over his acerbic lyrics for Company , which was to the 1970s concept musical what Oklahoma! was to the musical play. 5

Which is to say that all this gossip about marriages, including the metaphorical marriages of lyricists and composers, and all this griping about parents—all this illuminates the development of the American musical. One of the best chapters in Winer’s book about Hammerstein is mainly about Sondheim, whose “responses to Hammerstein’s work,” she writes, “constitute the most productive Oedipal impulse in the history of musical theater.” As she notes, there are many echoes of the poet of anticipation and community in the poet of ambivalence and alienation: Sondheim’s “No One Is Alone” speaks to Hammerstein’s “You’ll Never Walk Alone”; “You’ve Got to Be Carefully Taught” is a father of Sondheim’s “Children Will Listen.”

Sondheim famously called Hammerstein a man of limited talent and unlimited soul, and Rodgers the reverse. But Sondheim was also, in later years, the chief advocate for Hammerstein’s artistry—arguing that he should be seen as an experimental playwright; that his painstaking lyrics, despite diction and sentimentality left over from operetta, have weight.

“The most important ingredient of a good song is sincerity,” Hammerstein advised in his “Notes on Lyrics.” For him, sophistication was a false pose. “If you do find something exciting,” he advised his daughter in a letter, “it is silly to make believe you don’t .” He preferred characters that he considered “primitive”—cowboys, carnival barkers, Black and Asian people—because he thought that they say what they mean. “There’s nothing wrong with sentiment,” he said, “because the things we’re sentimental about are the fundamental things in life.” That earnestness is easy to mock.

Or to distrust. For Mary Rodgers and Sondheim and many of their generation, afraid of sentimentality, the happy talk that Hammerstein considered sincere could sound like pretense, lies, hypocrisy. But her knee-jerk transparency—“Make it funnier,” she told Green, and “make it meaner”—is equally a kind of sincerity. “The real reason to tell the truth, or truth within reason, is that it’s healthier for everyone,” she says.

There’s something here at the heart of many debates about musical theater, whether Hart versus Hammerstein or Hammerstein versus Sondheim, debates about what to believe and what to make believe. As Winer puts it, defending her love of Hammerstein, “One woman’s profundity is another’s useless sentimentality.” One generation’s sincerity is another’s artifice. Sophistication isn’t always a pose. It can be a condition: the old pathways to the heart are closed and new ones must be found. Each generation, searching for more honest ways to live and make art, mocks its biological and artistic parents, resolving to be their opposite and failing.

Then again, to dwell on these debates about language might be to miss the point, like reading “Oh, What a Beautiful Mornin’” without the transfiguring tune. Speaking for herself—but not only for herself—Mary Rodgers explains why she always forgave her father: “It was all about his music; everything loving about him came out in it, and there was no point looking anywhere else. It’s also true I didn’t have any choice—but it was enough.”

Grand Poobah of the Antigrandiose

‘I Still Would Have Had That Abortion’

Livelier Than the Living

Subscribe to our Newsletters

More by Brian Seibert

Where the previous generation of dancers arranged their steps into tidy, regular phrases, John Bubbles enjambed over the bar lines, multiplying, twisting, tilting, turning.

May 12, 2022 issue

Brian Seibert is the author of What the Eye Hears: A History of Tap Dancing . He teaches at Yale. (June 2024)

See The Letters of Oscar Hammerstein II , compiled and edited by Mark Eden Horowitz (Oxford University Press, 2022).  ↩

One died at three. Another, Adam Guettel, took up the family business as composer-lyricist. His music for The Light in the Piazza won the 2005 Tony Award for Best Original Score. His Days of Wine and Roses was on Broadway earlier this year.  ↩

Sondheim also had a narcissistic mother to flee, one who later wrote him that her only regret was giving birth to him.   ↩

Dorothy Rodgers, in her daughter’s words, “sniffed a satire too close to home” and turned her husband against the song, which Sondheim then self-bowdlerized. Sondheim includes both versions in the first of his two invaluable books about his lyrics, Finishing the Hat (Knopf, 2010).   ↩

It’s also surely not a coincidence that the lovelorn “best pal” character in Sondheim’s growing-up-in-showbiz musical Merrily We Roll Along (now on Broadway) is named Mary.  ↩

From ‘The Lady Eve’

December 20, 1990 issue

The Current Cinema

December 11, 1975 issue

The Young Pretender

October 22, 1981 issue

Working Girl

June 8, 1995 issue

Brother, Can You Spare a Dime?

April 23, 1992 issue

Dancing in the Dark

January 14, 2016 issue

Macbeth Without Evil

December 17, 2015 issue

Stanley Kubrick (1928–1999)

April 22, 1999 issue

Subscribe and save 50%!

Get immediate access to the current issue and over 25,000 articles from the archives, plus the NYR App.

Already a subscriber? Sign in

We've detected unusual activity from your computer network

To continue, please click the box below to let us know you're not a robot.

Why did this happen?

Please make sure your browser supports JavaScript and cookies and that you are not blocking them from loading. For more information you can review our Terms of Service and Cookie Policy .

For inquiries related to this message please contact our support team and provide the reference ID below.