the royle family camping trip

Ricky And Ralf's Very Northern Road Trip review: a highly successful Royle tour

Ralf Little and Ricky Tomlinson's travelogue will inspire your post-lockdown to-do list, says Ian Hyland

• 21:00, 11 May 2020

Ralf Little described this new travelogue as a poor man's version of Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon's award-winning series The Trip.

His theory was that while Coogan and Brydon performed countless first class impressions of actors and showbiz stars, all he and his travelling companion Ricky Tomlinson had to offer was Brian Blessed.

Ralf needn't have been so hard on himself. In this first episode they both did a passable Jim Royle too – although that was hardly a stretch for Ricky given he actually played Jim through 14 memorable years of The Royle Family.

In any case, the tone and content of this journey around the North of England owed more to another pair of comedy road trippers, Paul Whitehouse and Bob Mortimer – Ralf and Ricky haven't done any fishing yet, mind.

They have just as much onscreen chemistry as their predecessors, although the dynamic here is slightly different. Instead of middle aged old friends travelling together it has a father/son or even grandfather/grandson feel to it.

The impact was the same however. I've only watched one episode but the breathtaking scenery and the fabulous cuisine made me want to check out all the places they have visited so far. Top of my list would be that brewery in Lancashire which houses what was until recently the longest bar in Europe. The perfect place for a socially distanced pint or three.

Unlike their comedy counterparts, Ricky and Ralf drew the short straw when it came to luxury. There are no fancy Tuscan hotels or quirky rural English cottages in which to bed down for the night. Ralf and Ricky are roughing it in a tiny double-berth mobile home.

The sight of them checking out their sleeping arrangements put me in mind of that classic Christmas Day 2009 episode of The Royle Family in which Jim and Barbara went on a camping trip to Prestatyn with Dave and Denise.

Not that I needed any more reminders of the Royles. I've watched so many reruns on Gold during lockdown I can almost quote every episode word-for-word again. (NB. Just so we are clear, this will never not qualify as time well spent.)

Ralf and Ricky's journey began in Liverpool, so you can probably guess who was in charge of the itinerary. However, the fun didn't really start until they'd arrived in Blackpool.

The first surprise was the revelation that proud Scouser Ricky was actually born in Blackpool. The second was that Ricky and Ralf could happily jump around the Comedy Carpet – the town's answer to Hollywood's Walk Of Fame – and yell "my arse!" without anyone batting an eyelid.

So that's something worth noting if a trip to the seaside is on your post lockdown to-do list:

When in Blackpool, do as the Royles do.

MORE ON Ricky Tomlinson Road trips UK Gold

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Arts & Culture

Made in Manchester: The Royle Family

Come on, let's sing it together... "I would like to leave this city..."

By Ben Brown | Last updated 10 November 2022

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Back in 2007 when I was living in some random city in the middle of mainland China, and even when I moved to Barcelona to pursue a career in teaching Physics, there was one thing that I took with me that got me through all of the times that I felt homesick.

No, it wasn’t a picture of my mum, or a little jar of Marmite. It was a DVD of The Royle Family . Literally a warm and cosy trip back to Manchester, that no matter where I was in the world – has always makes me feel at home.

It’s undeniably one of the greatest sitcoms ever made, a slice of late 90s and early 00s Manchester that’s still not only laugh-out-loud funny 20 years later, it’s also just as relevant as it ever was.

And best of all – it was made, devised, filmed and written right here in Manchester, by a couple of relatively unknown comedians (at the time) – Caroline Aherne (Wythenshawe) and Craig Cash (Stockport).

Actually though, there was a third party involved too. Much like the well-loved League of Gentlemen, a ‘silent partner’ for The Royle Family exists – a man who helped create many of your favourite shows from Britain’s biggest comedians.

His name is Henry Normal and he co-created The Royle Family with Craig & Caroline – he himself starting off as a poet around Manchester before writing and creating the Mrs Merton Show, Paul and Pauline Calf (with Middleton lad Steve Coogan) and plenty more.

Back to The Royle Family, and many see the series as the brainchild of Aherne and Cash, or Denise and Dave as we more affectionately known them.

The pair met when they were both working at Piccadilly Radio, and Aherne went on to star in The Smell of Reeves and Mortimer (with Vic & Bob) before creating the character Mrs Merton.

In fact, Mrs Merton was a character that she’d already been using for years, most noticeably on the radio with Frank Sidebottom. By 1994 though, she was the star of her very own chat show – The Mrs Merton Show – where celebrities would come on and generally get the piss taken out of them.

It was well ahead of its time, years before Ali G took it to the mainstream, and the show even featured guest appearances by Craig Cash as Mrs Merton’s idiot ‘man-child’ son Malcolm.

But behind the scenes, the trio were working on a new show, one that would break all the boundaries of what a sitcom should be – and introduce the world to a working class family from Wythenshawe – The Royles.

The very first episode aired on BBC Two on 14th September 1998 and almost straight away was a huge success. Caroline herself claimed in later years that she hated the first episode – but the British public were enthralled. Although most British sitcoms in the past had all been typically based in the same location, The Royle Family went further – creating an intimacy never before seen or experienced on telly.

One of the major differences between The Royle Family and other sitcoms is also one of the things that Ricky Gervais and Steven Merchant attribute to the success of The Office 3 years later. “It’s like real life but with the boring bits left in” – and that’s exactly what you’re seeing when you’re watching the Royles.

Jim will be picking his arse while Barbara is watching Corrie, and Anthony is peeling the spuds. It’s the things we all do (or have done) in our houses right up there on the screen. The silences, the arguments , the awkward bits where Joe comes in from next door, or the sheer delight in learning that you’re having a chippy for tea – it’s amazing – and a window into the lives of millions of people all around the country.

The fact that the whole programme was set, written and filmed in Manchester is a serious feather in our regional cap – and one which adds to a legacy going back more than 70 years with the arrival of Sidney Bernstein in the 50s and the creation of Granada TV.

It’s also a testament to Mancunian tenacity that the show was even made in the first place, as Aherne fought tooth and nail with TV execs to get it made the way that they wanted it to be. It’s noticeable for its lack of a laughter track or studio audience – both things that were considered sitcom suicide back in those days, and the push for bigger, more dramatic storylines from the suits eventually fell on deaf ears.

But to us the storylines are important – because they’re SO real. The biggest drama in one episode is finding out who stepped in dog shit on the way there, while another one sees Dave & Denise arguing over some tart down the pub (Beverley Macca), or Nana stealing the remote from Jim.

The first three seasons, and the subsequent special ‘ The Queen of Sheba ‘ which deals with Nana’s death are, to me, absolute genius. There’s barely a missed opportunity for a laugh, and the pathos that’s getting thrown about makes Only Fools and Horses look like Mrs Brown’s Boys.

The series came to an end in 2000 when Ricky Tomlinson and Aherne stepped away from production. However, the team would continue getting together for regular specials right up until Caroline’s untimely death in 2016.

But The Royle Family still lives on, both in our minds and in our hearts. My wife and I regularly watch it pretty much once a week – it makes us feel all warm, secure and part of the family. It’s a show that will live forever, and has even gone on to influence arguably the biggest show on TV right now – Gogglebox .

Probably the biggest hit for Channel 4 in the last 20 years, Gogglebox literally takes everything that made The Royle Family so appealing, and then adds real people. They even had Caroline Aherne narrating the first few seasons, with Craig Cash taking over after her death.

Hearing him say “iiiinnnn Blackpool” just reminds me of him playing Dave – and once again we’re in someone’s home, watching them watch the telly and getting a unique insight into their lives. And that’s all down to The Royle Family.

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S3.E1 ∙ Baby

S3.E2 ∙ Babysitting

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Isle Royale National Park: The Complete Guide

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Things to Do

• Best Hikes & Trails

Where to Stay

How to get there, accessibility, tips for visiting, isle royale national park.

One of America's most remote and overlooked national parks is off the northern coast of Michigan 's Upper Peninsula, not far from the Canadian border. There, travelers will find a collection of small islands, the largest of which is Isle Royale , a hidden wilderness with much to offer those willing to make the journey.

A hunting ground for prehistoric Native Americans, Isle Royale is nearly 190,000 acres in size and stretches 45 miles in length. During the 1840s, as a copper boom hit the state of Michigan, small mines were set up all over the island. Later, it served as a home for commercial fishermen earning a living on Lake Superior. However, all commercial activities halted in 1940 when the U.S. government declared Isle Royale a national park.

Since then, it has been a popular destination for backpackers, kayakers, anglers, and other adventurous travelers. Because of its remote nature and the lengthy ferry ride required to get there, the park isn't visited by an overwhelming number of people. On average, it sees around 25,000 visitors yearly, which pales in comparison to the millions visiting the country's more well-known parks.

If you're planning a visit, here's what you should know.

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The most popular activities for visitors to Isle Royale are camping, hiking, and backpacking. Some travelers elect to take the ferry out to the island, set up camp at one of its 36 campgrounds, and explore the area on short day hikes. Others prefer to hike the entire island length end-to-end, camping at different locations as they go.

Other activities on Isle Royale include fishing for lake trout, whitefish, and sturgeon. Canoeing and kayaking along the island's banks—or one of the other 400 smaller islands in the vicinity—is also a great way to explore the park. Scuba diving in Lake Superior is also popular here, with several shipwrecks located not far offshore. Fishing, paddling, and diving trips should be booked with local guide services before arrival.

Best Hikes & Trails

Isle Royale doesn't disappoint with its options for trails to follow. Don't bring your dog along; they aren't allowed on any trails.

• The Greenstone Ridge Trail: This route runs the island's length, covering 39.5 miles while en route. The trail is very well marked, easy to follow, and is a moderately strenuous hike, primarily due to distance rather than elevation gain. Most backpackers will cover its length in three or four days, but with plenty of campsites on the Greenstone, some visitors will enjoy it at a more leisurely pace.
• Feldtmann Lake Loop Trail: This alternative backpacking trail is about 33 miles long and takes about three to four days to complete. Because of the popularity of the Greenstone Ridge Trail, you won't encounter too many other people while hiking.
• Mount Ojibway Trail: This trail is an easy 3.5-mile walk up to the Ojibway Tower. Hikers will trek inland and are guaranteed to see some of the most incredible views on the island. This trail descends and meets with the Tobin Creek bed and features a steep climb up Greenstone Ridge. It's considered an intermediate trail, so make sure you're up for it.
• Stoll Trail: This 4.7-mile trek to Scoville Point is also very scenic, with most of the hike taking place along the shore and in the island's forest. It's considered a relatively challenging route and can take up to an hour and a half to complete. This short trek is excellent for birding and trail running,
• Tobin Harbor Trail: This trail is also a great day hike for campers looking to stretch their legs and is perfect for kids and families. It stretches just 6 miles and has some gradual climbs, but nothing complicated.

Most visitors to Isle Royale camp at one of the 36 designated campgrounds throughout their stay. Each location features tent campsites, outhouses, and potable water sources for cooking and drinking. A permit is required to stay at any of those sites, but no extra fees are required beyond the park's $7 entry fee.

Even during the busiest travel season—July and August—vacancies can usually be found at these campsites. If one is full, it is usually a relatively short walk down the trail to the following location. Some planning may be necessary to avoid wandering into camp after dark, but usually, it isn't a challenge to find a place to pitch your tent.

Visitors who prefer to stay in a lodge will find two options—one at either end of the island. In Rock Harbor, the Rock Harbor Lodge offers comfortable accommodations right along the lakeshore. In Windigo, the Windigo Camper Cabins are a bit more rustic, featuring basic beds and furniture but no indoor plumbing. Guests will need to bring their own cooking supplies or rent them when they arrive onsite.

There are two restaurants on the island located at the Rock Harbor Lodge. Visitors can eat at the Lighthouse Restaurant or the Greenstone Grill while in that part of the island. There are also camp stores—which offer limited options for food, drinks, and snacks—in both Rock Harbor and Windigo. If you plan on venturing into the park's interior, you'll want to pack plenty of food for the length of your stay.

The majority of visitors to Isle Royale National Park come via ferry . There are daily departures from several locations in both Michigan and Minnesota . Which ferry you take depends on where you want to arrive on the island. There are three ferries, and they set out and arrive at different locations:

• Ranger III: Departs from Houghton, MI, and arrives in Rock Harbor. Travel time is six hours.
• Isle Royale Queen IV: Departs from Copper Harbor, MI, and arrives in Rock Harbor. Travel time is 3.5 hours.
• Voyageur II or Sea Hunter III: Departs from Grand Portage, MN and arrives in Windigo. Travel time is 2 hours.

Traveling by ferry costs $150 for adults and $115 for children aged 15 and under. An additional $60 is required to transport canoes, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, and bikes. A double kayak runs $80, while an inflatable costs $30. Prices are round-trip.

Seaplane service is available for those who want faster transportation to the island or are looking to avoid potentially rough waters. Isle Royale Seaplanes operates out of Hancock, Michigan, with dropoffs at either Rock Harbor or Windigo. Round-trip flights cost $360 and take 40 minutes to reach the park.

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The National Park Service has gone to great lengths to make Isle Royale as accessible as possible to all visitors. That includes offering handicap-accessible restrooms and restaurants in Rock Harbor and other facilities in Windigo. There are also campsites at the Daisy Farm and Rock Harbor campgrounds that can accommodate wheelchairs, although the trails to reach those campsites are not explicitly built for handicap access.

Additionally, the ferries and island boat tours provide access for wheelchairs, as do the seaplanes flying to the island. Beyond that, however, most trails and backcountry campgrounds are not accessible.

Although no pets are permitted on Isle Royale, service dogs are allowed. A certificate for service dogs must be obtained before arrival at the park. Receiving that certificate involves contacting the park service for the necessary paperwork and consulting with a veterinarian no more than 15 days before arrival. More information can be found on the Park Service website .

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• Isle Royale is closed from Nov. 1 to April 15 each year. If you're planning an early spring visit, watch the weather and check the park's website for updates on its current status.
• Considering its location in the heart of Lake Superior, you would think there would be much wildlife to see on Isle Royale. As it turns out, more than 400 species of birds visit the park, which is also home to moose, wolves, otters, foxes, and other creatures. Keep your eyes peeled for these local residents.
• A visit to Isle Royale is often a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so why rush it? If your schedule allows, plan on extending your stay by a day or two. This will enable you to hike and backpack more leisurely and gives you time to stop and soak in the views.
• In addition to the park's natural wonders, there are also some historical sites to see. For instance, one can visit one of the old copper mines or hike to a lighthouse. These landmarks are engaging, fun, and well worth your time.
• Isle Royale is a Dark Sky Park , meaning it is an excellent place to go stargazing. The stars that are visible on a clear night will blow your mind. And if you're lucky enough, you might be there on a night when the Northern Lights are visible .

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Backpacking on Isle Royale – Guide to Isle Royale National Park

By: Author Alisha McDarris

Posted on Published: August 31, 2021  - Last updated: August 8, 2022

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Not gonna lie, a little over a year ago when my dad said, “I really wanna go backpacking in Isle Royale National Park next summer; wanna come?” I was 100% not sure where the heck Isle Royale even was. So after a quick map search (it’s an island in Lake Superior) and a brief discussion of whether it’s pronounced roy-al as in Royale with cheese or roil as in the royal family (park rangers use the latter pronunciation), followed by a hearty bout of laughter brought on by my parents thinking I plan more than a month in advance…Isle Royal National Park was suddenly very much on my radar.

And then it so happened that Josh and I ended up doing an outdoorsy road trip around Michigan later that summer, so I looked up what was involved in making the trip because my dad had mentioned it wasn’t easy to get to.

He was right. In fact, that summer of 2020, it was nearly impossible to get to. Why? Well, for starters, it’s an island that’s only accessible by private boat, expensive seaplane, or passenger ferry. There are no cars on the island and no way to get them there. And if that’s not tricky enough, for nearly all of 2020, no ferries were operating due to Covid. And since I don’t have a private boat and didn’t care to drop $600+ for a roundtrip seaplane trip for Josh and I, we just shrugged and said, “Well, guess we’ll just go with my parents next summer.”

But as I mentioned, getting to this national park–the least visited in the lower 48–is difficult and time-consuming, not to mention not particularly cheap. So we’ll break it down for you, starting with a bit about the island, how to get there, the epic backpacking that awaits, and why you’re gonna wanna stay more than just a day or two.

A Bit About Isle Royale National Park

Located “in” Michigan, the park is actually just a little speck of land barely more than 45 miles long. It’s the ancestral land of the local Lake Superior Band of Chippewa (who work with the NPS to help manage and protect the park, btw) and several landmarks are named for the first people to explore, hunt and fish there. The highest point of the island, for example, is Mount Ojibway, and the island itself is also known as Minong : The Good Place.

There are no cars on the island–just some maintenance vehicles and tractors. And the only way to the island is by passenger ferry, seaplane and private boat.

You will need to either pay the $7 per person per day entrance fee or buy an annual parks pass ($60 for Isle Royale, $80 for an America the Beautiful pass) once you get to the island if you don’t have one already. If you do, just don’t do what I did and leave it in the glove box of your car back on the mainland…

How to get to Isle Royale National Park

OK, you know your options, now it’s time to pick. For the fastest, easiest way to the island, take a seaplane. You can check out a list of seaplane operators here that work out of Hancock, Michigan and Grand Marais, Minnesota. They also offer inter-island flights.

If you have your own boat, then you do you, my friend.

But most opt for the ferry. You can embark from three different ports in the U.S.: Copper Harbor, Michigan; Houghton, Michigan; and Grand Portage Minnesota. Check schedules and read more about each ferry option here . We took the Isle Royale Queen IV from Copper Harbor.

On the Island, there are two ports: Windigo and the more frequented Rock Harbor.

The Minnesota port is the closest to the island and offers the shortest ferry trip to Windigo (1.5-2 hours). Copper Harbor to Rock Harbor comes in second with a 3-3.5 hour trip, and Houghton is the longest at 6 hours to Rock Harbor.

You can also book a ferry from Rock Harbor to Windigo or vice versa if you’d like to travel by water instead of foot from one end of the island to the other in hours (about 5, to be precise) instead of days. Say, if you backpacked the length of the island on the Greenstone Trail but needed to get back to your starting point to catch the correct ferry back to your car.

Full disclosure: ferries often book up weeks, if not a month or more, in advance. So there’s not a lot of wiggle room for last-minute trip planning here. At least not during the summer, which is peak season.

And a word of advice: bring motion sickness meds. Even if you don’t think you’ll get seasick. I’ve never gotten seasick in my life, but our ferry ride to the island was the worst thing I’ve ever experienced. The waves were rolling and the boat was bobbing up and down, backward and forward, and rocking side to side and it. Was. Miserable. My mom, Josh, even my iron-stomached dad all took Dramamine. I just shut my eyes and put in ear plugs and tried not to listen to the dozens of people puking into plastic bags all around me.

Seriously. Bring motion sickness meds. Just do it. Worst case, you’ll enjoy a super smooth ride like we did on the way back and won’t need them.

Where to Stay on Isle Royale

Now, some people are crazy enough to make Isle Royale a day trip. That’s the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard. And it makes for a very long day. Besides, the island is stunning and there’s much to explore, so you’re gonna wanna stay a few nights. Maybe more. We stayed six.

There are several options when it comes to where to rest your head: the Windigo Camper Cabins , Rock Harbor Lodge or Housekeeping cabins at Rock Harbor, and backcountry campsites. We stayed at the latter–many of which featured shelters–as we were backpacking the entire time.

What To Do on Isle Royale National Park

OK, so you’ve arrived. Now what? Lace up those boots and get hiking, son!

Seriously, there are miles and miles of trails to explore and about a bazillion fewer people on those trails than you’re probably used to at national parks. Backpacking, we maybe passed 3-4 other groups a day. On the last day, we crammed in an extra day hike and saw more, but there was still none of that leap frog nonsense, lines at lookouts, elbowing each other for photo ops, you know what I mean. It’s glorious. It’s a true escape to nature, so make the most of it.

You can kayak or canoe around the island within the many bays or across the island thanks to a series of lakes and portage trails. Pay a little extra to bring your own vessel (it should be at least 15 feet long) over on the ferry with you or rent one once you arrive (though you’ll only be able to use it near the ports).

Experienced diver? You can also explore the sunken shipwrecks along the coast if you’re keen.

What did we do? We backpacked. For 6 nights and 7 days. More on our itinerary momentarily, but suffice it to say there are plenty of trails and campsites all over the island. You can even hike from end to end on the Greenstone Trail, which more or less runs along the ridge of the island.

Backpacking Itinerary on Isle Royale National Park

Wanna backpack, too? We got you. Here’s the route we took. Not too easy, not too difficult.

Day 1 : Start at Rock Harbor, register our trip plan with the office, head out on the Rock Harbor Trail. Camp at Three Mile Campground

Day 2 : Leave camp set up at Three Mile (we spent two nights there), take a day hike to Lane Cove, have lunch, hike back.

Day 3 : Hike to Moskey Basin. Enjoy the view and lunch on the dock at Daisy Farm. Camp at Moskey Basin (probably our favorite campground of the trip).

Day 4 : Pack up and hike to West Chickenbone Lake. Enjoy lunch with a view at Lake Ritchie on the way. Camp at West Chickenbone.

Day 5 : Leave Chickenbone for Daisy Farm. Arrive in plenty of time to sit on the beach and enjoy the sun, then set up camp and take a quick day hike to the lookout tower on Mount Ojibway and enjoy spectacular views across the island before returning to camp to make dinner.

Day 6 : Short hike to Three Mile. Set up camp, take a nap in the sun, play in the water, make dinner, and relax on your last night on the trail.

Day 7 : Hike back to Rock Harbor on the Tobin Harbor Trail. Drop your bags outside the visitor center, and go grab lunch that wasn’t freeze-dried! The Lighthouse Restaurant and Greenstone Grill have some vegan options. If you have time, absolutely hike out to Scoville Point and back. Breathtaking scenery awaits. Head back to the mainland via ferry/seaplane/boat.

Tips for Visiting Isle Royale

• This is proper backcountry wilderness, not camping with water and electric hookups and amenities, so you must come prepared to be self-sufficient.
• Don’t try to do too much each day; there’s a lot of beauty to appreciate, so take your time.
• Get a USGS topo map before your trip to aid in planning. Park maps are a bit convoluted and require a lot of point-to-point referencing.
• Bring your camera. Not only are the views of rocks and shore and mountains and lakes just absolutely stunning, you’ll likely see wildlife, too, from rabbits to beaver to moose!
• Know that while this may be the least visited park in the lower 48, it sees the most return visitors, so don’t be surprised when you start planning your next trip before your current one is even over.
• The park isn’t open in the winter (it is open April 16-October 31), but plan to take your trip during late spring, summer or early fall for the best weather. July is the busiest month, but before June and in September and beyond expect cooler temps.

Our Experience Hiking Isle Royale

Uh, yeah, we’ll be going back. And it probably won’t be long, either. Because spending a week on an island backpacking with my mom and dad–the third backpacking trip that we’ve taken together in five years, including hiking rim to rim across the Grand Canyon and a rainy weekend in Red River Gorge –making fun of how much weight they were carrying while simultaneously being jealous of their camp chairs, reveling in the beauty of nature together and teasing my dad about how the student has become the teacher (he’s the one who introduced me to backpacking more than two decades ago) was a blast.

But next time, I’m saving up for the seaplane! Ready to plan your own Isle Royale adventure? Wander on.

Alisha is a freelance outdoor journalist and photographer based in Ogden, UT. She loves backpacking, hiking, mountain biking, kayaking and snowboarding (even though she’s terrible at it). She’s also pretty sure she’s addicted to coffee. alishamcdarris.com

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The Ultimate Guide to Isle Royale National Park — Best Things To Do, See & Enjoy!

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Where Is Isle Royale National Park?

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Isle Royale National Park is the most remote national park in the contiguous U.S. This park is located in the northwest corner of Lake Superior in the boundaries of the state of Michigan. Isle Royale is the largest island in Lake Superior and was formed by volcanic rock with conifer, birch, aspen, and cedar forests.

Visitors can get to this park by boat or seaplane. Since this park is so remote, it is one of the least visited national parks and only brings in around 20,000 tourists annually. A trip to Isle Royale National Park will be an unforgettable experience that will leave you with memories to last a lifetime.

How To Get to Isle Royale National Park

Isle Royale National Park is located in Lake Superior, the largest freshwater lake in the world. This national park is 15 miles from the Canadian border and is Michigan’s only official national park. Isle Royale National Park is a remote island comprised of wilderness and stretches over 45 miles of temperate forest and the rugged coast of Lake Superior.

There are several airport options for flying to Isle Royale National Park. These airports will get you close to the national park, but a boat or seaplane is the only way to arrive on the island. Let’s take a look at 2 airport options for flying to Ise Royale National Park.

Houghton County Memorial Airport (CMX)

Houghton County Memorial Airport is Michigan’s northernmost airport. This airport is only 4 miles from the city of Houghton, which is where visitors will depart to arrive at the park. This airline offers flights to and from Chicago and exclusively services United. This small airport is an excellent option for traveling to Isle Royale National Park.

Minneapolis-Saint Paul International Airport (MSP)

Minneapolis-Saint Paul International Airport is the closest major airport to Isle Royale National Park. This airport offers an endless list of flights to various cities domestically and internationally. Minneapolis-Saint Paul International Airport services an incredible list of airlines, including Air Canada, Alaska, American, Delta, Frontier, and United.

Since Isle Royale National Park is a remote island, it is only accessed by boat or seaplane . Visitors should plan to depart from the city of Houghton, Michigan; Copper Harbor, Michigan; Grand Portage, Minnesota; or Grand Marais, Minnesota. Take a look at how to arrive at these different cities.

From Houghton, Michigan

Houghton is one of the most popular ways to journey to Isle Royale National Park. This city is located in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Visitors can get to Houghton by US-41. From Houghton, travelers can take a ferry or seaplane to Isle Royale National Park.

From Copper Harbor, Michigan

Copper Harbor is another option for guests traveling to Isle Royale National Park. This city is located at the edge of Michagn’s Keweenaw Peninsula. This city is accessed by US-41. From Copper Harbor, guests can take a ferry to the park.

From Grand Portage, Minnesota

Grand Portage is 150 miles north of Duluth and  is accessed by US-61. There are 2 options for arriving at Isle Royale National Park by ferry from this city.

From Grand Marias, Minnesota

Grand Marias is located in the northeastern region of Minnesota. This city is 110 miles north of Duluth and can be accessed by US-61. Isle Royale National Park tourists can charter a seaplane with a company called Isle Royale Seaplanes.

There are several options for arriving at Isle Royale National Park by ferry. Options for taking a ferry to Isle Royale National Park vary depending on which city you plan to depart from. Ranger III is the ferry that brings visitors from Houghton, Copper Habor is serviced by the Isle Royale Queen IV , and Sea Hunter III and Voyager II bring guests from Grand Portage.

Seaplane is an exciting way to arrive at Isle Royale National Park. Isle Royale Seaplanes is a business that provides daily flights from Hancock, Michigan, and Grand Marais, Minnesota.

Hot Tip: Isle Royale Seaplanes is the sole provider of seaplane services to Isle Royale National Park. Its website offers detailed information and schedules to tourists planning their trip.

Since visitors leave their vehicles on the mainland, the primary mode of transportation for exploring the park is on foot. Other approved forms of transportation include boating, canoeing, and kayaking. The park prohibits wheeled vehicles. The National Park Service offers a variety of printable and interactive maps on its website to help you plan your excursions.

What To See and Do in Isle Royale National Park

Isle Royale National Park is a national park with a long list of exciting activities for tourists. From everyday activities like hiking to fishing to unique opportunities like scuba diving, there’s something for every adventurer. Let’s explore the top activities in Isle Royale National Park to see which activities you’d like to add to your itinerary.

Isle Royale National Park is an excellent place for visitors who enjoy boating activities on the water. This national park has many opportunities for kayaking, paddling, and canoeing in the waters surrounding the island and in the inland lakes.

This national park has places for fueling, obtaining boat permits, and even campgrounds that are accessible by boat. Touring Isle Royale National Park by water is an incredible way to explore and discover the adventure that awaits you.

There’s no better place for fishing than an island surrounded by miles and miles of water. Fishermen are in for a treat when visiting Isle Royale National Park. There are countless opportunities for fishing in Lake Superior or one of the inland lakes.

Some fish you may find in the waters in and surrounding Isle Royale National Park include lake trout, whitefish, brook trout, yellow perch, and northern pike.

Bottom Line: There’s no better way to spend a day at this beautiful park than reeling a nice fish to show off to your friends and family.

A wide variety of guided tours is offered at Isle Royale National Park. These guided tours are led by park rangers and lead visitors to several different areas in the park. Some of the guided tours take boats, while others are on foot.

The guided tours at Isle Royale National Park are available from early June to early September. Guided tours are a great way to learn about the history and geography of the Isle Royal National Park area.

Hiking enthusiasts love the opportunities for hiking available at Isle Royale National Park. This park comprises 45 miles of island and features 165 miles of hiking trails.

The Isle Royale National Park trails range in difficulty, so there is something for every skill and ability. Some popular hikes available at the park include:

• Grace Creek Overlook
• Minong Ridge Overlook
• Stoll Memorial Trail

Hiking through this island park is an incredible way to appreciate and discover the adventure awaiting you at Isle Royale National Park.

Isle Royale National Park has an excellent Junior Ranger program offered to children ages 6 to 12. This program allows the youngest park visitors to learn about the remote island, the plants and animals found in the park, the island’s cultural history, and how to preserve the island using the Leave No Trace guidelines.

Children who participate in the Junior Ranger program are able to be involved in hands-on demonstrations and activities. Once they complete their activities and tasks, they are able to submit their discovery booklet for an official Junior Ranger badge.

Allowing your child to participate in the Junior Ranger program at Isle Royale National Park is a special way to explore the park with children while helping them learn about the importance of America’s national parks.

Isle Royale National Park is an excellent location for all sorts of adventures, especially water adventures . This island has an entire world to explore underwater.

The park has the most intact collection of all the national parks in the U.S. There are 10 major shipwrecks spanning 70 years that impressively show the progression of maritime transportation. Visitors to the park are able to scuba dive and explore these shipwrecks and get a glimpse of how marine travel has advanced through the years.

Best Times To Visit Isle Royale National Park

Any time you get the opportunity to visit Isle Royale National Park, you will have the time of your life. However, they may be a better time to visit than others, especially if you hope to participate or see something specific. Below you will find a list of the best times to visit Isle Royale National Park, which can help you narrow down the perfect time to plan a trip.

Summer months have the best temperatures and weather conditions for traveling to Isle Royale National Park. The temperatures typically reach a high of 75 degrees, which is perfectly comfortable for camping and hiking. The warmest month in this area is July, which is an excellent time for visiting.

Isle Royale is one of the least visited national parks in the U.S. Even when it is “crowded,” it never feels cramped. If you want to see this national park in its least busy month, planning a trip in September is an excellent idea.

Once schools have gone into session and after Labor Day, there are scarce visitors to the park. The temperatures at this time are also quite comfortable, and you may be able to get a sneak peek at the upcoming fall season.

The park opens for the season in mid-April, which is a perfect time for the wildlife waking up from winter. Mid to late April is an ideal time for visiting Isle Royale National Park if you are hoping to view the wildlife that makes its home in the park. Some of the wildlife you’ll be able to catch a glimpse of includes the red fox, wolves, moose, otters, and beavers.

The cheapest time to visit Isle Royale National Park is in September after Labor Day . While there will still be significant expenses getting to and from the park, lodging rates in the nearby towns are drastically reduced at this time.

Bottom Line: Planning a visit in September is a great way to save money while having the chance to experience this incredible U.S. national park.

Isle Royale doesn’t host many events other than guided tours and talks throughout the year, but the nearby towns have some incredible annual events that may intrigue you. If any of these events pique your interest, you may want to plan your trip around one of them.

Back 9 Endurance Run

The Back 9 Endurance Run takes place each year in May. This 12/24-hour trail run occurs at Keweenaw Mountain Lodge in Copper Harbor.

This trail winds through a 3.5-mile loop through the back 9 trails at the historic lodge, golf courses, hills, mud, and a forest with breathtaking views of Brockway Mountain. Participating in the Back 9 Endurance Run is a fantastic way to explore and discover one of the closest towns to Isle Royale National Park.

Houghton From the Ground Festival

The Houghton From the Ground Festival takes place each year in May in the town of Houghton. This event celebrates the arrival of the spring season in Keweenaw. There are food and vendors for visitors to sample and appreciate the talent of the locals of Houghton.

Live music from local musicians is also showcased throughout this festival. Attending Houghton From the Ground Festival is a great way to learn about the culture and history of this city near Isle Royale National Park.

Where To Stay In and Near Isle Royale National Park

There is a wide variety of accommodations in and near Isle Royale National Park. Most park visitors stay on the park property due to the difficulty of getting to and from the island, but several options exist for setting up a base camp in a town nearby.

There are several options for visitors seeking accommodations within the park’s boundaries. The most abundant option is to camp in the wilderness. For guests who prefer 4 walls, there are primitive camper cabins and resorts that are also an option. Take a look at the possibilities for lodging in Isle Royale National Park.

Isle Royale has 36 campgrounds with various campsites for visitors who want to experience Isle Royale National Park in a primitive way. These primitive campgrounds are perfect for visitors who seek a rustic experience sleeping under the stars in this beautiful park.

With no amenities at these campgrounds, camping at this national park is an opportunity for guests to become one with the great outdoors and experience Isle Royale National Park without the distractions of busy schedules and the daily grind.

Rock Harbor Lodge

Rock Harbor Lodge is located on the northeast side of Isle Royale National Park. This is the only option in the park boundaries for traditional lodging.

The lodge is only accessible by boat or seaplane. This exclusive lodge offers superior accommodations with private rooms or cottages, a stunning dining room, a gift shop, a dockside store, a marina, and various other amenities. The location of this lodge is perfect for exploring the wilderness, sightseeing, touring, and viewing the abundant wildlife in the area.

Windigo Camper Cabins

Windigo Camper Cabins are located on the southwest side of Isle Royale National Park in the Rock Harbor Lodge area. This option for lodging features rustic camper cabins that are a fantastic alternative to traditional tent cabins.

These cabins are primitive, with no running water, air conditioner, or heat. These 1-room cabins feature an outdoor restroom, a picnic table, and a grill for cooking outside. Windigo Camper Cabins are an excellent way to experience Isle Royale National Park and reset from the chaos of the daily hustle and bustle.

There are several towns near Isle Royale National Park that would make a great choice for setting up a home base while visiting this park. It is important to note that if you plan to stay in a nearby town and visit the park repeatedly, the cost of your trip will increase since you will need to purchase ferry or seaplane tickets each time you enter and depart from the park.

Let’s explore some of the top options for towns near Isle Royale National Park in case you choose to lodge near the park during your stay.

Copper Harbor, Michigan

Copper Harbor is a popular city for Isle Royale National Park visitors. This town has a long list of accommodation options, restaurants, and recreation.

There are plenty of options to choose from when it comes to finding the perfect home away from home in Copper Harbor. Whether you prefer sleeping in the great outdoors, staying in a primitive cabin, or living in the lap of luxury in a resort, you can find exactly what you’re looking for in this town. 

There are many great restaurants in Copper Harbor that showcase local favorites and one-of-a-kind specialties. From fine dining to family restaurants, there’s something for everyone here.

Adventure seekers will love staying in Copper Harbor because of its endless list of recreational opportunities. This town is perfect for hiking, biking, boating, fishing, skiing, snowmobiling, and more. For guests who prefer relaxation or arts and culture, Copper Harbor has several spas and salons, live musical events, artisan shops and galleries, and museums and tours.

Bottom Line: Copper Harbor is an ideal choice for lodging near the park. Guests never run out of things to do in this exciting town.

Houghton, Michigan

Most Isle Royale National Park visitors stay near the park in Houghton. This small town has a lot to offer visitors, including incredible lodging options, fabulous restaurants, and a host of activities for recreation.

Houghton has over a dozen lodging facilities scattered throughout its town. Whether you prefer camping in an RV park, a budget-friendly motel, or a historic hotel, Houghton has you covered.

The food scene in Houghton is remarkable. The town features a never-ending list of local restaurants serving everything from freshly baked pastries to sensational sushi, and from high-quality steaks to freshly caught seafood dishes. The hardest decision for guests staying in Houghton will be narrowing down where to dine each day.

There is plenty to see and do in Houghton. The town has museums and performing arts centers, an abundance of water activities, outdoor sports such as golfing and hiking, and a variety of shops and boutiques for guests who love to shop.

Houghton is an excellent choice for visitors who want to stay near Isle Royale National Park. There’s something that appeals to every traveler in this beautiful town.

Where To Eat In and Near Isle Royale National Park

Take a look at some of the top-ranked restaurants in and near Isle Royale National Park. There are 2 restaurants in Isle Royale National Park and countless options in the cities near the park. No matter what you’re craving, you can rest assured that you will find the perfect option at one of these outstanding restaurants.

Ambassador Restaurant is a well-known restaurant in Houghton. This restaurant is known for its one-of-a-kind pizzas, retro-style atmosphere, and fantastic taproom.

There is an extensive menu of unique pizzas, pasta dishes, freshly made salads, sub sandwiches, loaded nachos, and signature spirits. Favorite menu items include the Greek pizza, chicken Caesar salad, and the Reuben sandwich. Its famous spirits include a gin and rum specialty called the Scorpion and Pirates Cove, another exciting cocktail of spiced rum and juices.

For an unforgettable culinary experience, make sure to add Ambassador Restaurant to your Isle Royale National Park itinerary.

You are bound to get a sweet tooth or a craving for something cold during your adventures at Isle Royale National Park. Should you find yourself in such a predicament, you must take a detour to The Berry Patch in Copper Harbor.

The Berry Patch proudly serves homemade ice cream, Italian ice, and other sweet desserts. Not only does The Berry Patch serve fantastic ice creams and treats, but it also has a lovely menu of breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. Customers love the thimbleberry sundaes, the gelato, the hand-dipped blueberry ice cream, and the specialty dipped cones. The Berry Patch is also great for stocking up on homemade jams, gifts, and even antiques.

An excellent place to dine while visiting Isle Royale National Park, you’ll satisfy your sweet tooth and enjoy the hospitality of this family-owned restaurant at the same time.

Four Sons Fish and Chips is located in Houghton and is a top-ranked restaurant by locals and visitors. This restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. It offers a great selection of award-winning seafood creations, gourmet sides, and hot dogs for dining in or takeout.

This must-try restaurant in the Houghton area is open seasonally. Guests rave about the fried whitefish basket, fish tacos, and fresh smoked fish chowder. Isle Royale National Park has its headquarters in Houghton making this a convenient place to eat when traveling to and from the park.

Greenstone Grill is one of the 2 options for dining in Isle Royale National Park. This restaurant is located in Rock Harbor Lodge. Greenstone Grill has an incredible deck for visitors who want to gather with friends or family after a long day exploring the park.

This restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, making it an excellent option for any meal during the day. Guests rave about the fish sandwich, quesadillas, and salads. Greenstone Grill has a solution for you, whether you crave pizza, a sandwich, or a burger.

Bottom Line: Be sure to stop by Greenstone Grill while visiting Isle Royale National Park for a great pick-me-up during your park excursions.

Harbor Haus is located in Copper Harbor, a popular place for those heading to Isle Royale National Park. This restaurant is one of the top-ranked restaurants in the city.

Located on the shore of Lake Superior, guests can enjoy a sensational meal with a spectacular view. The menu at Harbor Haus features dishes with freshly caught local fish, top-quality steaks, and culinary specialties made with local produce. This restaurant also has an extensive wine list, German beers on tap, and signature cocktails made with Haus-infused liquors and fresh local berries.

Not only is Harbor Haus an incredible place to dine each day, but the staff also performs a ceremonial dance for diners to enjoy. This dance is a greeting to the visitors on the nearby ferry. It symbolizes the friendly and cooperative traits of the community of Copper Harbor. For great food and a fun experience, visit Harbor Haus. Your tastebuds will thank you.

1. A New National Park

President Franklin D. Roosevelt established Isle Royale National Park as America’s 25th national park in 1940. Before establishing this national, President Herbert Hoover began efforts to authorize this island as a designated park in 1931.

2. Lighthouses

There are several lighthouses that can be seen in Isle Royale National Park. These lighthouses helped guide ships safely to shore starting as early as 1855. The oldest lighthouse in Isle Royale National Park is the Rock Harbor Lighthouse. Other lighthouses in the park include Passage Island, Rock of Ages, and the Isle Royale Lighthouse. Today, these unmanned lighthouses are a visual reminder of Isle Royale’s fascinating past.

3. Shipwrecks

Isle Royale National Park has an underwater museum of shipwrecks that can be explored by scuba diving. One of the most infamous shipwrecks at Isle Royale was The America. This ship set to sail in June of 1928 but struck a submerged shoal that tore holes in the hull and sank the ship.

The passengers and crew members were able to safely abandon the vessel. Today, visitors can tour the dock where The America departed, see a lifeboat from the ship, and scuba dive to explore the boat’s remains.

4. Closed for the Season

Isle Royale National Park is the only national park to completely close for the winter season each year. Guests can visit this national park from April 16 to October 31 each year. The park closes from November 1 to April 15 for extreme winter weather and to keep visitors safe.

5. Interesting Visitation

Isle Royale National Park is one of the least visited national parks in the U.S. Remarkably, this national park has the highest number of repeat visitors yearly.

6. International Biosphere Reserve

In 1980, Isle Royale Biosphere Reserve was established. This prestigious honor means that Isle Royale is an excellent place for the sustainable use of natural resources and for conserving the area’s biological diversity. Isle Royale National Park has incredible opportunities for researching a remote ecosystem where human influences are scarce. There are only 47 reserves across the U.S., so this title is quite an honor.

7. An Island of Islands

Many people think that Isle Royale National Park is 1 large island. While there is a large island that composes most of the park, there are actually over 400 islands in this national park. Isle Royale National Park is called an archipelago, which is a group of many islands.

8. Highs and Lows

Isle Royale National Park’s highest point in elevation is on Mount Desor. This point reaches 1,204 feet. The lowest point in the park is 601 feet in height, which is found at Lake Superior.

9. Wolf Relocation

The gray wolf is an animal that was listed on the endangered species list in 1978. Isle Royale National Park has been doing their part to reintroduce and save this species since 2018. They brought 4 wolves to Isle Royale in hopes of helping them to survive and thrive. As of 2020, the gray wolf has officially been removed from the endangered species list due to the efforts of places like Isle Royale National Park.

10. Original People of Isle Royale

The remote island of Isle Royale was home to the Chippewa tribe. This land offered many resources to this people group, including maple trees for sugaring and a wealth of plants that could be used for eating and medicinal purposes. The beaver and bear in the area also provided for the Chippewa tribe.

The Native Americans of this area believed the land was sacred and even to this day have descendants of this tribe that come to visit this area and fish the island that sustained their ancestors.

11. Fires: Helpful and Harmful

Fire has had a significant role in the history of Isle Royale National Park. Over the years, wildland fires have broken out and drastically affected the park’s landscape. One of the most well-known fires of Isle Royale National Park is the fire of 1936. It is still unknown if the fire was started by man or lightning, but the fire burned 27,000 acres and took over 1,800 firefighters to contain it.

The fire of 1936 began on July 25th and wasn’t fully extinguished until September. Because of this fire, 3 fire towers were built along the island. Today, Isle Royale National Park uses fire management to prevent wildfires and preserve the property and natural resources of the park. Some activities included in fire management are prescribed fires and maintenance burning.

12. A Massive Island

Isle Royale National Park is the largest island in Lake Superior. This island is 45 miles long and 9 miles wide. The area of this island is over 206 square miles. This island is the fourth-largest freshwater island in the world.

13. Home to Many Animals

Isle Royale National Park is home to an abundance of animals. Over 18 species of mammals live in the park as well as amphibians, reptiles, fish, birds, and insects. Visitors enjoy the countless opportunities for birdwatching, wildlife viewing, and fishing at this national park.

14. Invasive Species in the Park

One species that makes its home in Isle Royale National Park is an invasive species called zebra mussels. The park is working diligently to help reduce the threats caused by these unwelcome inhabitants. Zebra mussels make their way into Isle Royale National Park by clinging to boats traveling to and from the island. If these problems go ignored, they can cause severe damage to Isle Royale.

There are several things visitors can do to help the park in their efforts to control these invasive zebra mussels. It is important to take note of the signage throughout the park and take the proper measures to help reduce the spread of dangers caused by these mussels.

For explorers who make the journey to Isle Royale National Park, they are rewarded with spectacular views and excellent opportunities for adventure and learning. Book your trip to Isle Royale National Park for an experience of a lifetime that will keep you returning to this remote area.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to enter isle royale national park.

Isle Royale National Park charges $7 per visitor daily, whether you enter, re-enter, or remain in the park. This fee includes the days you arrive and leave the park.

How many days should I plan a trip to Isle Royale National Park?

Most guests visit Isle Royale National Park for 4 days. Still, a good tip is to always add an extra day or 2. While Isle Royale is visited less than most other national parks, there’s so much to see and do while you are there that a more extended trip allows for plenty of exploration, hiking, and taking part in a guided tour.

Can I bring my dog to Isle Royale National Park?

Dogs and any other type of pet are prohibited at Isle Royale National Park. Service dogs are the only animals that are permitted in this national park.

Can I bring my car to Isle Royale National Park on a ferry?

Vehicles are not permitted at Isle Royale National Park. Visitors must arrive by seaplane or ferry and leave their vehicles on the mainland.

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About Amar Hussain

Amar is an avid traveler and tester of products. He has spent the last 13 years traveling all 7 continents and has put the products to the test on each of them. He has contributed to publications including Forbes, the Huffington Post, and more.

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Isle Royale National Park: Trip Report

 Isle Royale Trip Report

Quick Stats:

Total Mileage: 106.34 Miles

Length of Time: 7 Days

Dates: 9/11-9/17

Start/End Point: Rock Harbor → Rock Harbor

Link to Lighter Pack HERE

• Enlightened Equipment Enigma 10°
• Zpacks Duplex Camo (carried by partner)
• Thermaret NeoAir (women’s)
• Hyperlite Windrider 2400
• Pack Liner – Compactor Bag
• Katadyn BeFree
• Snow Peak Gigapower Stove
• Snow Peak Spork
• Lightload Towel (cut in half)
• 2 1.5L Smart Water Bottles
• Zpacks Food Bag  

Clothing – worn:

• Kuhl Harmony Dress with built-in bra 
• HOKA Speedgoat 5 with Curex Insoles 
• Darn Tough Hiking Socks
• Patagonia Underwear
• Columbia Silver Ridge Sun Shirt 
• Spy Optic Sunglasses
• Respect the Locals Hat (SAVE THE HELLBENDERS <3)

Clothing – packed:

• Montbell Rain Pants
• Patagonia Thermal Weight Leggings
• Melanzana Dress
• Enlightened Equipment Puffy
• HOKA ONE ONE Liner Gloves
• Arctery’x Zeta FL Rain Jacket 
• Appalachian Gear Co. Beanie 
• 2 pairs of extra Darn Tough Socks
• 2 pairs of Injinji Sock Liners 
• Enlightened Equipment Stuff Sack 

Media/Electronics:

• USB Charger (for headlamp, camera, brick)
• Phone Charger
• Dual Port Block 
• Airpods + Case
• Osprey Zip Diddy Bag

Toiletries:

• Squirrel’s Nut Butter
• Prescription Glasses
• Contacts (+ extra pair)
• Saline Solution

First Aid Kit:

• KT Tape (4 strips)
• Stomach Relief
• Knife (Spyderco Cricket) 
• KT Blister Bandages
• Needle + Thread 
• In bag with Toiletries 
• Deuce of Spades
• Toilet Paper
• Hand sanitizer 
• Ziplock to pack out TP
• Osprey Diddy Bag
• Kula Cloth Pee Rag (on outside of pack)
• I predownloaded our daily routes onto Gaia to utilize in Airplane Mode on my iPhone
• Highly recommend this map 

Logistics/Permits/Things to Note:

There are two ways to get to Isle Royale – boat or seaplane. Both are expensive and you must be flexible with your planning. As weather can change rapidly on Lake Superior, both modes of transportation are often delayed and sometimes canceled. 

There are four places to travel to the island via boat or seaplane: Houghton, Grand Marais, Grand Portage, or Copper Harbor. The ferry rides are all several hour trips, no matter your point of departure. All seaplane flights are about 35-50 minutes with Isle Royale Seaplanes. 

We opted for the Seaplane from Houghton. There are a couple of reasons for this decision. The first, and most personal, is because my dad went to school in Houghton at Michigan Tech University, and I fondly remember visiting here as a child. Before traveling to Houghton, my mom and I had decided to drive from Nashville to Okemos, Michigan to visit family and some of my dad’s ashes at his family cemetery. Houghton was the closest point to Isle Royale via car after the Michigan visit. The second reason we opted for the seaplane was timing. Because of work schedules, we had to make this trip after the busy season and as transportation and amenities on the island were slowing down and stopping for the season. Isle Royale Seaplanes make multiple trips daily, weather dependent, to the island whereas the ferries have far fewer trips after Labor Day. Because my mom drove me to Houghton, she was also able to drive us to the Seaplane airport the morning of our departure. Houghton does have multiple cab companies and shuttles to take you from the airport or your hotel, so you do not have to rent a car. We hitched a ride upon our arrival back to Houghton (easy hitch) to our hotel and paid for a cab to the Houghton airport on Sunday, the 18 th . 

We had a very good experience with Isle Royale Seaplanes and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a faster, convenient way to Isle Royale. The most important thing to note is that you must be flexible with your plans. The weather can change rapidly on Lake Superior that can make for less-than-ideal flying conditions. Because there are so many trails on the island, it is easy, and necessary, to have alternative routes and plans. Our flight on the way to Rock Harbor on Isle Royale from Houghton was delayed for about 1.5 hours due to fog. The flight back from Rock Harbor to Houghton was delayed for about 3.5 hours due to fog and rain. Both flights were smooth, and the pilots were both awesome. 

If you have a reservation, Isle Royale Seaplanes will honor this commitment even if it means adding additional flights due to delays and/or getting you on a flight the next day or available weather window. The ranger stations at Windigo and Rock Harbor have screens telling you the latest weather and flight information. Even if the stores/resort are closed, a ranger is on-site until the island is closed. Though Rangers do not work for the seaplane company, they are in contact with them and will have the latest information. They are merely the messengers and do not have control over flight plans and logistics. Isle Royale Seaplanes do not permit you to fly with fuel, but it can be purchased at Windigo and Rock Harbor as long as the planes are running. The total cost for the seaplane for 2 tickets roundtrip was $720.00. Though expensive, the convenience was worth it for us. 

You can acquire a permit prior to your visit on Isle Royale’s website HERE . 

However, after calling the rangers and discussing the permit system with them, I concluded it would be easier to get the permit once on the island. I called the rangers on Isle Royale more than once during my planning process and cannot compliment them enough for their helpful information and patience with the many questions I had. At this time, Isle Royale is one of the least visited National Parks and, therefore, permits do not sell out. 

We opted to get our permits once on the island because we knew our plans were up to the weather and when we would actually arrive. Once on the island, we filled out our permits with our estimated campsite each night. We received a backcountry permit and a cross-country camping permit. The Cross-Country Camping Permit requires you to watch a video and comes with a few more LNT rules, which we always respect. We ended up not needing to camp at a non-designated campsite, but it was comforting to have that option. Our permit was free because we have a National Park Pass. 

Also an encouraging reminder to get a National Park Pass – I always say that these pay for themselves in just one visit to a National Park. 

Things to Note:

• Because Cricket and I visited Isle Royale after Labor Day, many services and amenities were closed for the season. If you can visit earlier in the year, the resort, restaurant and both stores would be open. Check NPS website for dates open and more details. 
• Because Isle Royale can be quite boggy in some places and contamination can occur, some lakes on the island are sometimes not safe to drink out of even if filtered, treated, or boiled. Algae blooms are common in ponds and lakes on the island. NPS tests water in each lake quite often and the Isle Royale NPS website ( LINK HERE ) will have the most updated information on drinking water. You can also call Isle Royale National Park with questions about which water sources are currently safe to filter or treat.
• We used the Katadyn BeFree filter and Aquatabs to treat water. Often, we only filter but in our research and speaking with rangers, it was recommended to also treat the water on the island. 
• As stated before, the weather can change rapidly on Lake Superior. It is vital to have back up plans and to keep track of the weather. Both Windigo and Rock Harbor have the latest weather information. 
• Stores on the island are closed after Labor Day. However, you would be able to supplement a resupply at Windigo’s General Store and/or Rock Harbor’s resort/restaurant during the open season. We did not have this option so we carried 7 full days of food. 
• Fuel: As long as the Seaplanes are running, fuel will be sold at Windigo and Rock Harbor as you are not permitted to fly with camp stove fuel. 

Cell Coverage: 

• We did not have cell coverage the entire trip with Verizon.

Windigo and Rock Harbor:

• The general store was closed by the time we made it to Windigo (closes Labor Day)
• Ranger Station Store was open with souvenirs but no food or drinks
• There is a very nice pavilion with places to charge devices 
• Flush toilets
• Water spigot 
• Rock Harbor:
• Rock Harbor resort was closed for the season. When open, they have rooms and a restaurant open to the public. 
• Electric outlets
• Flush Toilets
• Water Spigot 
• Ranger Station Store was open with souvenirs but no food or drinks 

Wildlife : 

• Isle Royale National Park’s wildlife is extremely fascinating. An island is a great place for studying wildlife as it is a contained space, ideal for studying the various inhabitants of Isle Royale. 
• According to the NPS, there were 14 wolves on the island in 2019 but we were told by a ranger that that number has almost doubled in the past few years. We did not have the pleasure of seeing a wolf from a far distance on this trip, though we looked very hard. We did see wolf scat a couple of times and a clump of unmistakable wolf hair which made us miss our dog, Radley. If you see a wolf, please send me a picture. 
• Beavers are concentrated in many areas on the island, we saw most of them during our journey on the Northern, central part of the Minong Ridge Trail. Though I believe they are a nuisance for trail builders and often disrupt the water flow, we thought they were quite cute and entertaining. 
• There are over 2,000 moose on Isle Royale. I was delighted to see 7 moose on this trip, as I had never seen one on my thru hike on the AT to my disappointment. We were on the island during rutting season so we were on high alert each time we saw one and gave them a wide berth. 
• There are many other wildlife you may see including various species of birds, rodents, insects, etc. 

Introduction:

They say that Isle Royale National Park is amongst the least visited National Parks in the United States. For me, however, I grew up hearing tales of this remote island from my dad, who visited the area many times as a Boy Scout. He also attended Michigan Tech University 70s and went to the park a time or two while living just a few hour ferry ride off the coast of Isle Royale in Houghton, Michigan. My dad passed away in the Fall in 2020. Though his death seemed unexpected to me, he had been suffering from a long illness that he had finally succumbed to. 

Cricket (trail name, real name: James), my partner, and I had begun to check on National Parks after his sister, Emma, had given us a wall hang containing a list of the parks. We’re list people, Cricket and I, and we can’t seem to contain ourselves when we have boxes unchecked on those lists. We had ticked off quite a few on our thru hikes of the Appalachian Trail and Pacific Crest Trail and both growing up in families who loved to travel. However, we wanted to visit all the National Parks to give us a goal in between thru hikes and to get away from our lives in the corporate world. 

In 2022, we have already crossed off three National Parks but we were itching to go on a backpacking trip during September. My urges to call my dad during long walks or work trip drives had become less and less. His presence in my childhood home began to weaken and I craved some sort of connection with my father. 

“I need to go to Isle Royale, James,” I told Cricket, “I know it seems like a logistical nightmare, but let me work all that out and we can go this September.” It was the ideal time to go in our minds, my job with HOKA was becoming increasingly more time consuming and I needed time away and Cricket had PTO he needed to use up. “Okay,” he said, “just let me know the dates and let’s go.” 

It was a logistical nightmare–at first. However, after a few phone calls with some very helpful Isle Royale National Park Rangers, visiting a few blog websites (though not many), and reading and rereading the National Park Website, the nightmare turned into something to look forward to. Because we were unable to go to the Island until after Labor Day, we did have some extra difficulties with logistics (noted above.) However, if thru hiking taught us anything, it’s the ability to be flexible and extremely uncomfortable. 

After making various plane reservations, booking a hotel in Houghton, and ironing out all the other logistical details of actually getting to the island, I focused on the route. Cricket had mapped out a route a few years earlier when we had first talked about going to Isle Royale; I used this as a guide. Because we had 7 days and wanted to see as much of the island as possible, we decided that we would start at Rock Harbor, go to the other end of the island to Windigo, and back. The goal was to try to string all of the trails together to do a circumnavigation, loop de loop thing. We planned to take the Greenstone Trail to do the Feldtmann Lake Loop up to Windigo, and then hop on the Minong Ridge Trail back to Rock Harbor. Upon our arrival, we found out that most people typically do a point to point – Rock Harbor to Windigo or vice versa. However, we had the time and the ability to do higher mileage days so we went for it. 

My mom and I decided we would drive up from Nashville to Okemos, Michigan to visit my dad’s sister and to visit the family cemetery, including one of my dad’s headstones. After this nice visit to a place near and dear to my heart, we then drove to Chicago to have a long lunch with my cousin Ellen on the way to Milwaukee. Once in the Cream City, we took a long walk with Radley around Lake Michigan before hitting a couple of local breweries. Milwaukee was, surprisingly to me, quite a cool town and I look forward to returning when I can see an Admirals game and have time to visit more breweries. 

My mom and I woke up early in Milwaukee. She went on a long run along Lake Michigan while I took a walk with my dog, Boo Radley, to the lake. We had a nice breakfast before heading to the Milwaukee airport to pick up Cricket. To put less pressure on his limited PTO, Cricket decided to fly and, with Milwaukee on the way to Houghton, my mom and I did not mind picking him up on our route. The three of us are big Home Alone fans, we wanted to stop where the Polka King of the Midwest hailed from – you guessed it: Sheboygan. After a nice lunch at a local deli and Radley’s short dip in Lake Michigan, we made our way to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. 

As we entered the small town, greeted with college students shotgunning beers on their roofs and signs stating, “Honk for the Queen and we’ll take a shot” (this was the day after Queen Elizabeth’s death), James observed, “So this is a college town.” “Yep,” I said. 

My parents and I had visited Houghton when I was younger and I had fond memories of the trip. I had even considered attending Michigan Tech, but my educational interests lied in Appalachia. My dad had told me funny anecdotes of attending college in the UP, like having a second story entrance and exit door because the snow would reach the second story and, as busy college students, they did not want to shovel out their first story door. As one might guess, the UP has quite a long and tough winter, so interest in winter activities is a must for mental health. The town has a small ski hill and snow sports are popular during the winter months. Culturally, the UP is quite different from the other parts of the US, including the “mitten” of Michigan. 

We stayed in a dog friendly Quality Inn right on the main street in Houghton. Cricket and I had resupplied in Tennessee in order to allow more time for us to relax the night before our seaplane flight to the island. In our typical fashion, James and I dropped off our bags, took a quick walk with Radley, and headed to the local brewery, Keweenaw. We then met my mom for dinner at my dad’s old watering hole. 

I could already feel my dad’s kind, guiding presence. I was so grateful for my mom’s ability to drive us to Houghton and the seaplane dock. She would also watch her granddog, for which we are always so appreciative. 

After dinner, Cricket and I unpacked and repacked our bags and ensured we had every last item on our gear list. We took Radley on one last short walk and returned to our bed to sleep. As we were drifting off, we sleepily chatted about how smoothly everything was going so far in our several layered logistical plan to get to Isle Royale National Park. 

Day 1: September 11th, 2022

Day 1, Mile 2

Mileage: 13.00 Miles

Start/End Point: Rock Harbor → East Chickenbone Lake Campsite

I awoke early the next morning and took Radley on a short walk along the Portage River. The sun rose slowly over the dense, though lifting, fog. I wondered if this would affect our flight plans. Radley and I enjoyed the sunrise and before my unwelcomed, though ever present, anxiety began to rise. I returned to the hotel room and unpacked and repacked my bag for the thousandth time. Luckily, because we were staying at the same Quality Inn upon our return to Houghton, the hotel allowed us to keep a duffle bag with clean clothes and shoes. After checking out and stowing our bag, the three of us – my mom, Cricket, and I – went to a local bakery for breakfast. We enjoyed breakfast and ordered sandwiches and pastries to pack out to the island so we would not have to delve into our limited resupply on the first day. 

As we pulled into the Isle Royale Seaplane’s parking lot, my phone received a call from an unknown Houghton number. I knew what this meant before I answered. After hanging up with Isle Royale Seaplanes, I told my mom and Cricket our flight to the island was delayed indefinitely due to foggy conditions. We decided to drive back to town. With at a loss for what to do, we sat in the car in the motel parking lot for about 30 minutes before another call came through. “It’s go time,” I told my mom and partner. 

We arrived at the seaplane dock about an hour before our flight, just enough time for my anxiety to bubble up again. I tried to pet my dog and think about our exciting upcoming adventure. I don’t really like flying and I like leaving my dog even less. As with most US National Parks, dogs are not allowed in Isle Royale National Park. 

Because we were going to the island during off season, Cricket and I did not have any idea of how many other hikers we might encounter, but we both thought little to none. To our surprise, there were two other hikers joining us on our seaplane. Our pilot told us we would probably encounter many more hikers than we expected – he was right. 

I hugged Radley for the millionth time and told her to be good before giving my mom a tearful hug and kiss. “Gosh, this is harder than leaving for the PCT,” I thought. Radley is getting older and my attachment to my mom has grown since my dad has died. To my astonishment and delight, my anxiety went back into its temporary home as I strode confidently towards the seaplane. Cricket often met my eyes to check on his anxious girlfriend. 

Cricket, the pilot, our two fellow backpackers, and I all buckled up on the seaplane for our short, smooth, 35-minute flight. The views from the plane were astounding, all of us, with the exception of the pilot, were constantly snapping photos. 

Photo 1. Peanut on a Seaplane

Once we landed, we took a short walk to the Ranger’s station to register for our permits. Next, we went to the Rock Harbor Lodge to buy a fuel canister each. After filling our bottles and using a real restroom, we were off to our campsite at about 12:45PM on Sunday, September 11th. 

The day started at Rock Harbor Lodge where we took a short trail to get on the Greenstone Ridge Trail. We immediately started climbing to the ridge. The views were astounding, Fall had arrived on the island which was a nice surprise coming from a hot and humid Tennessee. The tall ridge allowed us to see Lake Superior to our left and our right. The trees were covered in yellow and red leaves and it smelled like Autumn. 

We took a short break at the fire tower on Mount Ojibway to soak in the views before descending to Chickenbone Lake. At the time of this trip, it was unsafe to drink the water at Chickenbone Lake due to an Algae Bloom. A couple of miles before arriving at our campsite, we filled up 3 liters of water each to have enough for dinner and the next morning. 

Chickenbone Lake East Campsite sits on top of a ridge next to the lake with about 4 campsites. Each site can hold at least three tents. There was also a moldering privy available. After speaking with a ranger who deemed it unnecessary, we opted to not hang our food bags during this trip; we simply kept our food bags in our tent vestibule at night. 

We arrived at the campsite about 5:30PM and immediately set up camp. We each ate a breakfast sandwich we had packed out from town and changed into our sleep clothes. After, we took a walk down to the lake filled with undrinkable water to watch the sunset. 

As we enjoyed the beautiful view, we heard a large animal get into the water. We never saw what we were sure was a moose, but heard it splashing in the water several times throughout the evening. 

Day 2: September 12, 2022

Night 2. South Lake Desor Campground

Mileage: 17.78 Miles

Start/End Point: Each Chickenbone Lake Campsite → South Lake Desor Campsite

The next morning, we decided to sleep in a bit and pack up camp slowly. After a breakfast of hot oatmeal and coffee, we packed up, and took the short .3 mile trail back to the Greenstone Ridge Trail. We reached the trail about 9:00AM. 

The morning was clear and pleasant as the trail followed the ridgeline for easy hiking. The trail winded in and out of the woods with long sections on exposed ridgeline which offered gorgeous 360° views of Lake Superior, Chickenbone Lake, and several smaller lakes. When the trail would dip back in the forest, the path was lined with ferns and colorful trees. 

We stopped at Hatchet Lake Campsite at a little over halfway for the day to have lunch. The 0.3 mile side trail was worth it to have a nice place to sit and to retrieve safe drinking water. We took about an hour to eat lunch, stretch, and drink at least 2 liters of water each. 

Once back on the Greenstone Ridge Trail, we continued to enjoy the views of Autumn. We took a short break at Ishpeming Point Fire Tower before hiking the final couple of miles to South Lake Desor Campsite. 

South Lake Desor offered a large backcountry campsite with at least 3 moldering privies. There were about 9 campsites with group camping available. Individual campsites had room for at least 3 tents each. We arrived at about 4:45PM which is very early for us. However, we got the last campsite available as all of the other sites were occupied. Because the sites were large, we felt if everything was full, a fellow hiker would have let us set up our tent with them. 

We were surprised that almost every campsite we stayed at was full throughout the week despite this being the end of the busy season. We seemed to get lucky each night with a campsite, getting one of the last ones available almost every evening. It seemed that most hikers were doing lower mileage and arriving at their end point early in the afternoon while we were doing more mileage and finishing in the evening. 

After setting up our Zpacks Duplex and unpacking for the evening, we took a stroll to find a good place to fill our water bottles. Along the shore of Lake Desor, there is about a mile of trail with the campsites strewn along it. Cricket found a nice log to sit on and offered to filter our water while I swam. I enjoyed the cool water and swam with the loons who were singing their evening hymns. 

We each enjoyed our individual hot suppers next to the lake after cooking it at our designated campsite. The sunset was even more gorgeous than the previous night’s and I was grateful to be back on trail. I slept soundly that evening listening to the loons in the distance. 

Day 3: September 13th, 2022

Night 3. Sunset at Rainbow Cove

Mileage: 21.03 miles + 1.73 Bonus Miles to Rainbow Point and back 

Start/End Point: South Lake Desor Campsite → Feldtman Lake Campsite 

On Tuesday morning, we were on trail by 7:30AM and took the .4 mile side trail back to Greenstone Ridge to start our longest mileage day of the trip. We started with a quick pace and ascended Mount Desor as the sun had begun to peak over Lake Superior. James and I were treated to a beautiful sunrise as the warmth began to burn off the morning fog. 

We continued in silence for the next couple of miles. I suddenly stopped when I saw a huge bull moose staring straight at me in the middle of the trail about 50 feet in front of me. “What?,” James said. “Shh!,” I replied. We both froze in cautious excitement. We watched him for a couple of minutes until he started to walk slowly toward us. He began to exhale loudly through his nostrils and the look in his eye was more than a little offputting. We stepped off the trail, talking to him loudly letting him know we were going to give him plenty of space. Once we had given him enough room, he began to back off a bit. After several minutes of slowly making a wide berth around the trail, he stomped loudly off the trail and into the woods. 

In 2016, when I was hiking the Appalachian Trail, I had made it my life goal to see a moose, which I never fulfilled. After seeing this moose on Isle Royale, I was ecstatic, it had been the only thing I had been talking about in preparation for this trip. Little did I know, this was the first of several throughout the week. 

Just after we encountered Bullwinkle, we stepped off the Greenstone Ridge Trail and headed south on the Island Mine Trail. After about 4 miles in bogs and walking on wooden planks, we arrived on the shoreline of Siskiwit Bay. The trail follows rocky beach for a couple of miles until Siskiwit Bay Campground, where we had lunch. 

Peanut hikes along Siskiwit Bay

This campground boasts several shelters, campsites, and moldering privies. It is also accessible by boat from Lake Superior and has a large dock and several picnic tables. It was a lovely place to have a long lunch. 

Leaving the Bay, we hopped on to the Feldtmann Ridge Trail. The section between Siskiwit Bay and Feldtmann Lake on the Ridge Trail was perhaps our most difficult of the trip. Not because of the difficulty of the terrain, but this trail was extremely overgrown and boggy. This was also the hottest, muggiest day of the week. We had decided to take a quick break at Feldtmann Tower, but after climbing for what seemed like forever on exposed trail, we wondered if the tower was a myth. We were beginning to get cranky and hungry. Both of us were scratched up from the overgrowth, ready to take a break, and wondered where the fuck this tower was. “Shit,” I said as I saw the remnants of an old tower on a small, exposed ridge. James threw his pack down and we decided just to snack in direct sunlight, adding to our misery. A few minutes after we started hiking again, we didn’t say a word when we saw a nice, new tower poking through the trees. 

By the time we reached the actual Feldtmann Tower, I was covered in tiny burrs on my dress. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture in my frustration, but there were hundreds of these little assholes. It took us at least 20 minutes to remove them. 

We descended back into the woods for a welcomed few miles in the shade before we reached our campsite at Feldtmann Lake. We again snagged the last available campsite when we arrived at about 5 o’clock and were both exhausted and hungry. As we cooked dinner, we did not say much except that we would not do another 20 mile day on this trip (ha, how quickly we forget the feeling of misery). 

Though Feldtmann Lake is inland a bit, Rainbow Cove Trail takes you to the shore of Lake Superior, about one mile from the campsite to the beach. After some sweet convincing from Cricket, we grabbed our headlamps and my camera and walked to enjoy the sunset with the Rock of Ages Lighthouse in the distance. 

When we first arrived at the beach, there were several people there as well but they quickly retreated back to camp. Though it was difficult to convince our exhausted bodies to hike another 2 miles, the view was absolutely worth it. We knew that this would be one of the last clear, dry nights we would have on this trip. The red sunset was absolutely breathtaking. Cricket and I sat in silence until the stars came out and I could feel my dad’s presence on this night more than any other. 

Day 4: September 14, 2022

Mileage: 20.90 Miles 

Start/End Point: Feldtmann Lake Campground → South Lake Desor

On Wednesday morning, I awoke early before Cricket and let him sleep in a bit. His stomach had been giving him issues for the last 24 hours and I knew he needed the rest. I watched the sunrise over Feldtmann Lake and watched the loons begin to stir, hoping to see a moose. When the sun had fully risen, I made us hot coffee and oatmeal and slowly packed up camp. We were on trail a few minutes after 9AM to finish up the loop around Feldtmann Lake and headed towards Windigo. 

Around midday, we arrived at Windigo for a long lunch break to enjoy the amenities. Running water and flush toilets were welcomed after 4 days in the backcountry. There was a large pavilion with outlets to charge our electronics and a picnic table for us to enjoy our lunch. Though the general store was closed, the Ranger Station was open with souvenirs and a small museum. 

The Ranger Station at Windigo also has the latest information on the weather. Cricket and I studied the forecast and discovered what we already knew: rain and cold. We had been looking at the weather for several days leading up to our trip and it was predicted to rain and drop in temperature on the night of the 14th until our departure. 

We walked back to the pavilion to slowly pack up our electronics. Most people were using the satellite phone to get on an earlier ferry or seaplane ride, cutting their trips short to avoid the weather. We chatted with other backpackers before heading back on trail. Our fellow adventurers wished us luck with the impending weather.  

We left Windigo and took a path that led us to the Greenstone Ridge trail where we saw several hikers finishing their journeys, heading towards the docks where we had had lunch just a couple hours before. Around 4 o’clock we reached the turnoff for our intended campsite — Island Mine. However, we came to a mutual decision to head a few more miles back to South Lake Desor where we had stayed two nights before. This would put us closer to our campsite the next day, increasing our chances of securing a covered shelter out of the rain. 

The next 5 miles whizzed by as we jogged to get to our destination before sundown. We arrived just after 5:30PM and set up camp. There were just a few other campers there that evening and finding a site was no issue. After we set up our tent, we headed down to Lake Desor to filter water before heading back to the campsite to cook dinner. I had Annie’s mac and cheese and gave Cricket one of my vegan Alt Route Meals, hoping a good meal of rice and vegetables would help settle his stomach.

James and I chatted about the weather that was coming in that evening and our plans for the next day. We decided we’d stick with our original plan of getting back on Greenstone Ridge Trail to repeat some of the same miles going the opposite direction until we reached Hatchet Lake. At Hatchet Lake we’d take the Hatchet Lake Trail to the Minong Ridge Trail and camp at Todd Harbor. 

Like most nights on this trip, we drifted off to sleep listening to the loons and slept soundly until we heard the pitter patter of rain drops on our tent a few hours later. 

Day 5: September 15, 2022

Peanut hikes over a beaver dam

Mileage: 18.02 miles 

Start/End Point: South Lake Desor → McCargoe Cove 

The rain had come early in the morning, a few hours before sunrise, but ceased around 7:30AM for just enough time to pack up the tent and scarf down a cold breakfast. Our goal was to hike quickly and get to Todd Harbor to hopefully secure a shelter. We were looking forward to having a short 12 mile day — or so we thought. 

We followed the path leading us back to Greenstone Ridge from camp with a fellow hiker. The three of us chatted for a few minutes before she stopped suddenly. “Look!,” she mouthed. I turned my head to see two huge bull moose to our left. They were about 30 feet off the trail and were munching on some vegetation. Both seemed completely unbothered by our presence; we stood watching for several minutes. About 50 yards after we started to hike again, we saw a third moose also enjoying his breakfast and a fourth deeper in the forest. 

Once we were back on the Greenstone Ridge Trail, Cricket and I hiked in silence in the rain until we reached Hatchet Lake. A brief break in the rain allowed us to stop for a quick lunch on the shores of Hatchet Lake. I noticed something move across the lake, I squinted and barely made out a large dark figure. “Is that a moose?,” I asked James. “Nah,” he answered. We sat there for another few minutes in silence looking at the figure until we both decided it was, in fact, our fifth moose sighting of the day. 

We took the Hatchet Lake Trail to the Minong Ridge Trail where I was looking forward to seeing a creature I had never seen in the wild before. At Windigo on the previous day, a man had told us to look for a beaver the size of a labrador retriever on the Minong Ridge Trail. I was beginning to lose hope after I didn’t immediately see a beaver. However, once the trail began to get quite muddy and climb over beaver dams, they were everywhere. James and I watched them for over half an hour and did, in fact, see a beaver that was larger than our 40 pound dog. 

We arrived at Todd Harbor in the early afternoon to find the one shelter vacant. James and I are notorious for setting a goal, but quietly planning an even bigger goal in our head without sharing it with one another. “Should we go six more miles to McCargoe Cove?,” I said. “I’m not sure, we said we’d only do 12 today after back to back twenties,” he answered. It was only 3:00 in the afternoon and felt guilty taking the only shelter at Todd Harbor when we could easily make it to McCargoe before sundown, which had 6 shelters. We agreed that we would go on but knew we were taking a risk of not getting a shelter. 

The afternoon went by quickly and without much talking as we hiked in the pouring rain, looking for wolves. We had heard that the Minong Ridge Trail was far less traveled and it would be our greatest chance of seeing a wolf. We saw several piles of scat and a few clumps of hair along the way but no wolf. 

Only two shelters remained when we got to McCargoe Cove and we were extremely grateful to have secured one. We hung our wet clothes and rain gear in the shelter and warmed up in our quilts as we watched a couple episodes of Seinfeld that Cricket had downloaded. 

Shelter at McCargoe Cove

The shelters on Isle Royale are quite nice and cozy, they are three sided shelters with a screen covering the front with a door. Each shelter has a picnic table and room for at least 6 sleeping bags and pads. Shelters are first come, first serve and fill up quite quickly. Campgrounds on the island also have multiple tent pads, tent spots and shelters vary depending on the location but specific numbers can be found on the NPS website. 

We enjoyed watching the drizzly evening from our snug shelter and only emerged once for a short walk to stretch our legs along the shores of McCargoe Cove where we also filtered water. After a hot dinner and another episode, we both drifted off into a deep sleep listening to the raindrops pitter patter on the shelter ceiling. 

Day 6: September 16, 2022

Rainy hiking

Mileage: 12.96 Miles 

Start/End Point: McCargoe Cove → Threemile

On Friday morning, we allowed ourselves to sleep in as we only had 9 miles to hike to our original goal of Daisy Farm. Cricket and I enjoyed the coverage of the shelter until there was nothing left to do but hike. We left around 10:00AM and it rained the entire day. 

We took the short portage trail to the trail leading around East Chickenbone Lake until we reached the Greenstone Ridge Trail. The two of us hiked rapidly and in s in the constant downpour and turned off to the Daisy Farm Trail that would take us to the Rock Harbor Trail. 

Our rain jackets and my rain pants had finally soaked through after nearly 3 days of rain by the time we reached Daisy Farm Campground  in the early afternoon. It was too early to stop for the day so we had a quick lunch under the large pavilion before walking the final four miles. 

Around 4 o’clock that afternoon we arrived at Threemile Campground, appropriately named for the fact that it is about 3 trail miles to Rock Harbor. We claimed the last shelter and hung all of our soaking wet gear and clothes. The rain fell harder and harder as the hours went on and I was again grateful for a dry shelter to rest our heads. 

Our seaplane flight was scheduled for the next morning at 11:00AM. We were slightly worried that our flight would be canceledWe thought we had been hearing the seaplanes coming and going on the island all week long, even when the rain had arrived. We also knew that a boat was scheduled for that Saturday morning but did not know the logistics around that. The only thing we could do was stick to our original plan and hope for the best. 

That evening, we took another short walk around the shore of Rock Harbor and filtered water on the dock in the pouring rain with a couple fellow campers. I enjoyed a hot meal of Amy’s mac and cheese with a Reese’s dessert before we hunkered down in our sleeping bags to watch an episode before falling asleep in our cushy shelter. 

Day 7: September 17, 2022

A slippery, wet hike into Rock Harbor

Mileage: 2.65 miles + 2.74 bonus miles on Stoll Trail

Start/End Point: Threemile Campground → Rock Harbor 

Though our plane wasn’t scheduled to leave until 11:00AM we felt it best to get to Rock Harbor as early as possible because the weather had been so iffy. We left the shelter just after 7 and had a slippery, slow hike to Rock Harbor. The Rock Harbor Trail is on the shoreline and goes over rocky terrain almost the entire trail. The rain made for slick conditions, but the views along the way made for a beautiful morning. Though foggy, the landscape was quite peaceful and we could see across the harbor to several smaller islands. 

We made it to Rock Harbor just after the ferry had left, we found out that many hikers had canceled their plane ride and opted for the ferry. Because the ferry is not as influenced by fog as the seaplanes, it was the safer bet. Cricket and I looked at the information screen at the ranger station, which read in big, red letters “SEAPLANES DELAYED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE; CHECK BACK AT 9:00AM.”

There was a lot of tension in the air as some people told us that they had been waiting since the previous morning to fly out. One hiker dried his tent and gear on a railing while we chatted with him; he told us he was scheduled to be on our 11:00AM flight with us. “We’ll be getting on a flight before you, we’ve been waiting since 7!,” someone who had overheard our conversation exclaimed. 

James and I decided to walk over to a nearby picnic table and cook some oatmeal. As we ate our hot cereal, we went back and forth trying to decide if the fog was getting worse or better. Upon checking the screen at 9:00AM, it said to wait another hour and a half before another announcement would be made and all flights were still delayed due to fog. We decided to hike the Stoll Trail while we waited. 

This loop trail was quite pleasant as it contained several informational signs and it followed the shoreline of Lake Superior. “What was that?,” Cricket asked. My ears perked up and I heard a low huffing and looked to my left to see a very intense looking bull moose less than 15 feet from the trail; we froze. “Hey, buddy,” I said soothingly, “it’s okay, we’re just gonna keep walking.” My eyes shifted to his right and saw a smaller, cow moose. We had clearly interrupted the bull moose’s attempt at wooing her and he was not happy about it. 

I continued to talk to them as we briskly walked on and I was grateful for one last moose encounter. We finished our loop as it passed along the shores of Tobin Harbor. Cricket and I listened for the engine of a seaplane as we made our way back to the ranger station. 

Upon our arrival back at Rock Harbor, we shopped in the small store and chatted with the rangers about our moose encounter and their encounters with wolves while we waited for the update from Isle Royale Seaplanes. When the time came, we stood under the screen with the others hoping to see our name listed with a departure time — we did not. However, several others did have their names on the list. We decided to walk down to the take off point to watch the seaplanes with some slight optimism. 

We arrived at the seaplane landing area with all of our gear and several others.  The group talked amongst ourselves, some were just there to watch the plane while others were hoping for a ride. Our new friend who had been drying his gear stood next to us and we made small talk. It was the last day of scheduled seaplanes for the season and the tension was palpable. 

Our Seaplane arrives

The anticipation mounted as we heard a seaplane approaching. The pilot landed the plane and no one said a word as he exited the plane. He yelled out 5 names and instructed a family of four and a solo hiker to load their stuff into the plane’s floats. We heard a second plane coming and the excitement mounted. This was a smaller plane than the first, orange and a bit older, the female pilot parked next to the dock behind her fellow pilot’s aircraft. She hopped out to talk with her coworker before telling us that she could only fit 3 people. A flurry of questions were shouted at her after she relayed this information. The pilot put her hand up to silence the crowd and stated, “I’m not sure if we’ll have more flights today, it depends on the weather, we will fly you out in order of your reservation.”

She chatted with the male pilot again as he helped his guests into the plane. He called out 3 names with no answer. We all assumed they had taken the ferry. The two pilots chatted some more. “James, Melanie, and Jason — are you here?,” he said. “Yes!,” we all said in unison. We headed toward the orange seaplane and wished our best to the others. 

Our pilot was extremely professional and concentrated as she started the engine. She explained we could talk amongst ourselves on the headsets but would be silencing hers in order to focus. The fog was extremely thick and we could barely make out the island as we took off. This flight was much different than our first seaplane ride. She kept the plane very low to the water for more visibility. It was breathtaking though our visibility was limited. 

The flight was smooth and went by very quickly, it seemed the Portage Lake Lift Bridge came out of nowhere and suddenly we were back in Houghton. We thanked our pilot for getting us back safely and hitched a ride from our fellow traveler back to town. 

After checking into our hotel and rinsing off the layers of dirt, I was excited to show James my dad’s old college town. We went to a couple of my dad’s old hangouts and took a four mile walk around campus before ending up at the stadium to watch the Michigan Tech Huskies play a soccer game. We ended our trip as it had started — at the Ambassador, my dad’s favorite restaurant in town, and with a walk along the Keweenaw waterway. 

Conclusion: 

Peanut and Cricket at Rock Harbor on their final day

Thank you for reading this super in-depth trip report of our 106 mile backpacking trip in Isle Royale National Park. I hope it helps with your planning for this beautiful National Park! 

Feel free to reach out with any further questions you may have and follow along for more adventures to come in 2023 @melaniepeanut on Instagram

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To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.

Hi, y'all! My name is Melanie but on trail I go by Peanut. Franklin, TN. is my hometown, but the mountains of Appalachia have my heart. When I'm not on the trail, you can find me sippin' a craft beer or watching a hockey game. Boo Radley is my cattle dog-beagle-hyena mix, who joined me for half of my AT thru hike. In 2016, I thru hiked the Appalachian Trail solo. I thru hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in 2018 with my partner, James. I just left my job as a field rep at HOKA and we're going after our triple crown in June! Follow along as we attempt the Continental Divide Trail this summer! I'm excited to be at the Trek sharing my journey with ya'll!

Exemplary thoroughness. Thank you. Zero surprise all the pilots, rangers etc were great. If there is a less than decent person in the UP of Michigan, I’ve never met them in several visits.

Thank you so much, Pinball! The UP is a magical place.

Loved the in-depth description of this amazing journey. Great advise about logistics and packing. So grateful for our Park Rangers. Thanks!

Great article! Thank you! A buddy and I did a thru-hike of Isle Royale in July 2022 and it was great. Saw moose up close as well as a few foxes both on trail as well as traipsing casually through our campsite. If you’re going to make the effort to go to such a remote National Park, definitely include a couple of days at Pictured Rock National Park while you’re there. (See Dixie’s great videos on hiking and camping at Pictured Rock). We did just that and then caught the ferry to and from Isle Royale which was about one-third the cost of the seaplane. We loved relaxing on the 3-hour or so boat ride while seeing beautiful scenery and meeting and talking with many nice people along the way. I would recommend going in season when all facilities are open. It’s a pretty remote area and it was nice to have at least some amenities at the start and finish. I would also recommend downloading a trail map. Some parts of the trail are not well-marked and we unnecessarily spent a couple of hours trying to navigate a mere 1.5 miles between East Chicken Bone and West Chicken Bone campsites. We also had a little difficulty following the trail while walking at the top of some ridgelines. Last time I checked, Far Out doesn’t offer an offline map for Isle Royale but I believe that Avenza does. As you mentioned, the permit system and logistics can be confusing but diligence pays off and it’s well worth it. P.S. Don’t plan on swimming in Lake Superior unless you’re a seasoned veteran of the “Polar Bear Plunge” as it is ice-cold even during the summer. Thanks again for all the detail on this little-known gem!

Looks awesome! Miss y’all. ?

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Backpacking Isle Royale National Park

Isle Royale National Park is one of the least visited National Parks, with the highest re-visit rate. It takes quite some effort to get to Isle Royale National Park, but once you’ve been, you’ll want to come back!

Set 18 miles from the Lake Superior shoreline of Minnesota, it’s not an easy park to access and not one you can just drive through on your way elsewhere. Isle Royale National Park is known for wolf and moose populations, and many studies are done here on how those two populations cohabit the island without other predators like cougars or bears. Each winter, Facebook fans follow closely the migration of wolves on and off the island. With so few visitors and no vehicles on the island, hiking Isle Royale is a really special national park experience. If you aren’t interested in backpacking Isle Royale, you can also kayak around the island, or take day hikes from the lodge. I can’t recommend this National Park highly enough!

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If you are hoping to visit Isle Royale in winter, the island is closed from November 1 through April 15 each year.

Isle Royale Ferry

Getting to Isle Royale National Park is the hardest part of planning your Isle Royale backpacking trip. There are three mainland departure points for Isle Royale, which offer four passenger ferries and one seaplane route. There are two main arrival points and ports on Isle Royale: Windigo on the Northwest Side, and Rock Harbor near the Eastern tip of the island. Here are the Isle Royale ferry options: (Note: there are no car ferries to Isle Royale!)

• Houghton, Michigan : The Ranger III is a 6-hour ferry ride to Rock Harbor. This Isle Royale ferry travels from Houghton to Rock Harbor on Tuesdays and Fridays, and from Rock Harbor to Houghton on Wednesdays and Saturdays. For 2023, the Ranger III has added a few trips to Windigo as well. An adult ticket is $80 each way. Reservations open just after January 1, so don’t miss your booking window !
• Copper Harbor, Michigan : The Isle Royale Queen IV takes just three hours and 45 minutes from Copper Harbor to Rock Harbor. With daily departures, there is more flexibility on this route. If you want to make a day trip to Isle Royale, this is the best option as you’ll have about three hours to explore Rock Harbor before the return ferry leaves. A high-season adult ticket is $160 round-trip.
• Grand Portage, Minnesota : those wanting to take the ferry to Isle Royale from Minnesota will have several ferry options. The Voyageur II takes passengers to several points on Isle Royale (Windigo, McCargoe Cove, Belle Isle, and Rock Harbor) while the Seahunter III takes passengers to Windigo. Leaving from Grand Portage is the fastest ferry to Isle Royale, but also probably the longest drive unless you are coming from Duluth.
• Isle Royale Seaplanes : want to splurge and skip the ferry to Isle Royale? Isle Royale Seaplanes can take you to Windigo or Rock Harbor from Houghton or Grand Marais. Fares range from $230 to $300 per person, each way.

Isle Royale Backpacking Tips

As soon as you decide you will be backpacking Isle Royale, get a good map of both the island and the mainland surrounding Lake Superior. Chances are, you will road trip to your departure point for Isle Royale, and you’ll need to weigh all of your options for a suitable backpacking route. With your maps in hand, alongside the Isle Royale ferry schedule, you are ready to sketch out an Isle Royale backpacking itinerary!

How many people will be backpacking Isle Royale with you? For groups of six or fewer, you’ll have the freedom and flexibility to choose your campsites as you travel. You can obtain your National Park Service back-country camping permit upon arrival at Windigo or Isle Royale.

For groups of six or more, advance group camping reservations and permits are required. This is where planning gets critical, as you must align your Isle Royale camping reservations with the Isle Royale ferry. Permits open up on January 2, so it’s critical to plan ahead. We had ten people in our group; any more than ten we would need to split up into two groups.

There are lockers you can rent at Rock Harbor Lodge, which is perfect for stashing electronics and clean clothes. You can purchase shower tokens at the General store, so bring cash if you want to freshen up before your ferry back to the mainland. I bought two shower tokens..totally worth the splurge!

Isle Royale Camping

There are 36 campsites in Isle Royale National Park. They are all only accessible by foot or boat and are generally spaced six to eight miles apart. Each campsite has assigned tent spaces, a water source, and an outhouse. Some of the campgrounds offer camping shelters, although those are not available for groups of six or more. Group sites have room for several tents and even hammocks, while several campsites also have a fire ring and picnic tables. McCargoe Cove was one of the best sites for relaxing! Fortunately, water is plentiful at most Isle Royale campsites, so you only have to carry 1/2 day’s worth, and you can filter along the way. Check out my backpacking packing list !

8-Day Isle Royale Backpacking Itinerary

Our Isle Royale itinerary was as follows:

• Three Mile Campground could be a shorter option for your first day!
• Day 2 – Daisy Farm to McCargoe Cove, 8.2 miles
• Day 3 – McCargoe Cove to Hatchet Lake, 10.7 miles
• Day 4 – Hatchett Lake to Todd Harbor 3.7 miles*
• Day 5 – Zero Day at Todd Harbor*
• Day 6 – Todd Harbor to Chickenbone Lake West, 9.3 miles
• Day 7 – Chickenbone West to Daisy Farm, 9.5 miles
• Day 8 – Daisy Farm to Rock Harbor, 7.1 miles; ferry to Copper Harbor

*The rest of the group hiked to Lake Desor, while I opted for a “zero-day” at Todd Harbor.

Isle Royale Hiking

On most days we hiked along high ridges, including the Greenstone Ridge Trail and the Minong Ridge Trail. Both trails afforded views of Mount Ojibway and in all directions to Michigan, Minnesota, and Canada!

While many of the trails had boardwalks through the swampy areas, there was also plenty of mud to go through!

The trails on Isle Royale are very well marked and I think it would be nearly impossible to get lost. In addition, a lack of bears and cougars makes this a great place to try solo backpacking!

I spent an extra day at Todd Harbor, which gave me a chance to rest my legs, do some laundry in the lake, and enjoy the magnificent Todd Harbor sunsets. 

Todd Harbor also has a boat dock, where I met this gentleman who stopped in on his boat and shared his lunch with me and another backpacker. What a treat in the middle of a week of dehydrated meals! He also gave me what was left over of his toilet paper so I could restock the outhouse, which was running low. An Isle Royale trail angel!

The final day of Isle Royale hiking was a sunrise hike along the Rock Harbor trail from Daisy Farm Campground to Rock Harbor, where I purchased two shower tokens ($6 each) and changed into clean clothes that we had stashed in a gear locker at the beginning of our trip. Afterward, we all enjoyed a greasy burger in the cafe before the ferry ride back to Copper Harbor.

Isle Royale Lodging

Backpacking or canoe camping not your style? You still have options for visiting Isle Royale National Park. For non-campers, here are your Isle Royale lodging options:

• Campsite Shelters – 19 of the Isle Royale campgrounds offer camping shelters. Staying in a shelter is still very rustic, so you’ll need most of the same gear that you would bring for camping. Since they are first-come, first-served, I would still bring a tent just in case you don’t get a shelter!
• Rock Harbor Lodge – the only full-service lodge on the island. Lodge rooms range from $163 to $382 for four people, while the cottages range from $224 to $464 for six people.
• Windigo Camper Cabins – rustic cabin camping at Windigo Harbor will only run you $51.95/night. A great way to close out an Isle Royale backpacking trip before jumping a ferry back to the mainland!

Day Trips to Isle Royale

While it’s a pretty long distance to travel for a day trip, it is possible to just visit Isle Royale for one day. Here are your options for a day trip to Isle Royale. (Be sure to check the most up-to-date timetables as not all ferries run every day!)

• The Isle Royale Queen IV ferry departs from Copper Harbor Michigan at 8 am and arrives at Rock Harbor around 11:45 am. The same ferry leaves Rock Harbor at 2:45 to return to Copper Harbor, so you will have 3 hours to explore the Rock Harbor area. This will give you enough time to enjoy a short hike.
• The Voyageur II departs from Grand Portage at 8:30 am, arriving at Windigo two hours later. The return ferry departs Windigo at 2:00, leaving you 3 1/2 hours to explore the Windigo area.
• The Sea Hunter III is another option for a day trip from Grand Portage to Windigo. The ferry leaves Grand Portage at 9:30 and arrives at 11:00 am. The return ferry leaves Windigo at 3:00, leaving you four hours to explore Windigo.
• Of course, the seaplanes are the fastest (and most expensive) option for getting to Isle Royale, but if you want to maximize your day trip, this is the way to go!

I can only hope I have the opportunity to return to Isle Royale more times in the future. I would love to take a slower pace, explore the harbors, and enjoy the lodge for a few days.

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Great post! Isle Royale is an unforgettable place. I backpacked almost the same route as yours, about 20 years ago. I told myself back then, that I need to come back to see the rest of the island. This is finally the year. I am going back in June. I am already getting excited thinking about it…

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How to Plan a Seamless Family Camping Trip

By Lauren Matison

All products featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

One of life’s guaranteed adventures, besides having kids, is a family camping trip . Because when we’re talking about that trusted recipe for fun—dirt, fire, stars, and wild places—it’s nearly impossible for kids not to have a good time. But if you're intimidated by the idea of planning your first family camping adventure, we have good news: there’s no one right way to do it. 

“Don’t confine yourself to this picture of what you think camping is from what you've seen in films, TV, or magazines,” said Jahmicah Dawes, father of two young boys, and the owner of Slim Pickins Outfitters , the nation’s first Black-owned outdoor gear shop, in Stephenville, Texas. "We went about camping a different way, subscribing to more of the glamping side first. We would stay in cabins, go on group trips with other families. Our most successful "campout" with small kids was in our backyard. I'm thoroughly okay with that. I want to cultivate a love of the outdoors for our family first.”  

Whichever approach suits your family camping style, here are the tips you need. From how to find the best places to camp (without the crowds) to tips for saving on outdoor gear, consider this a roadmap for planning your next family adventure. 

All products featured in this story are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Establish your goals for the trip

Before you head out, make a game plan with your family to avoid any unpleasant surprises (and temper tantrums) when you arrive at the campsite. At home, put out a bowl of trail mix and start sharing ideas for what each member of the family hopes to do on the trip. Maybe one kid wants to fish and the other wants to summit a mountain . Do you prefer a secluded private campsite or feel more comfortable being close to other campers on public land? If you’re interested in a lakeside spot, you may want to plan accordingly for renting a canoe or getting a compact watercraft like Oru’s foldable kayak . Having at least one initial family conversation will not only help you hone in on the right destination, but getting everyone involved will keep the excitement high. 

For your first family trip, consider skipping the big national parks and heading to a less-crowded state park.

Think outside the national parks

With camping on the minds of more than 80 percent of Americans this season, according to a new Campspot poll, scoring a prime national park campsite will be tougher than usual. Take the pressure off that first family camping trip and check out some of the lesser known national parks—from California’s Sequoia & Kings Canyon to Isle Royale in Michigan. The country’s 6,600 state parks also hold their own otherworldly beauty and unique history. From Texas to New York , many state parks have even launched their own free apps chock full of insider info on nature centers, kid-friendly hiking trails, spectacular campgrounds, Black-history sites, and free bike rentals (just remember to pack your own helmets ).

Glamping destinations outside the public park system are also popping up across the country, like Rustic Rook Resort near Great Dunes National Park in Colorado and Autocamp Cape Cod , which has an adventure-themed playground for kids. Popular outdoorsy booking sites like Hipcamp and Tentrr , and resources like Campendium and iOverlander , also make the process of finding a family-friendly campsite easier than ever, whether you want to pitch a tent or glamp—or have the option to do both.

Hack your packing list  

By heading for the outdoors you get to leave everyday life behind, so resist the urge to fill up the trunk just because it’s there—rather, focus on being well-prepared (and organized) with the right essentials. Use a printable packing checklist, like this one from REI, and don’t wait until the last minute to run through it. And before you run out and buy all new gear, know that there are a handful of ways to save money and curb waste in getting what you need: pull out any old hiking apparel (from the kids closet, too) and see what should be repaired or traded in through companies like Patagonia and REI . You can also buy used clothes for kids and adults (half off and in like new condition) from Patagonia’s Worn Wear shop, Arc’teryx’s Used Gear , and The North Face’s Renewed programs. Purchase used high quality gear from reputable places like Gear Trade , REI , and Outdoors Geek —where you can also rent everything from tents to kids sleeping bags to a GPS rescue system , with the option to buy afterward. 

When choosing a tent, look for something that's roomy, wind-and-rain-resistant, and easy to assemble.

Get gear that’s built to last  

If you don’t have much of a gear closet to vet, don’t sweat. Starting with the tent, you want something that’s roomy, wind- and rain-resistant, and easy to assemble. REI's Co-op Kingdom 6 -person tent offers double doors, a vestibule, and a spacious layout with a divider that creates two separate living areas. MSR’s Zoic 4 -person tent is a winner for backpackers and car-free campers with its six pound weight, generous interior, and full micro mesh canopy for constellation spotting . Make sure to grab a ground cloth , which protects the tent floor and keeps out moisture. 

Vicki Denig

Jesse Ashlock

Charlie Hobbs

Emily Pennington

The right sleeping bag must deliver on breathability, wiggle room, insulation, and water repellency. Side sleepers will love Big Agnes' Sidewinder SL 20 , which moves with your body better than your own bedding back home, though we also love Mountain Hardwear’s Lamina Eco un-dyed sleeping bag, made with recycled material. Dress kids in Chasing Windmills’ temperature-regulating merino wool pajamas and zip them into REI Co-op’s Down Time 25 (or you might opt to share a double sleeping pad with a cozy quilt ). You won't have to think twice about bringing the baby with Morrison Outdoors’ Little Mo 20 sleep suit, which keeps six to 24-month-olds safe and toasty down to 20-degree weather. Test out the gear in the backyard or local park well before the big trip to be sure no items are defective. If you have even more time, visit an outdoor retailer and have a salesperson help you select the equipment best tailored to your trip, taking into account the destination’s weather, topography, and any activities you’d like to pursue.  

Take the stress out of mealtime

Your first camping trip should be about easy, no-fuss meals. While food blog Fresh Off the Grid's recipes for campfire nachos and grilled Mexican street corn will score you major camp counselor points, you can still serve up a homey vibe and a few surprises with minimal effort. For instance, pre-bake a favorite comfort food like banana bread and serve it for breakfast, make grilled cheese over the fire with a beaver-stamped iron for lunch, and cook up a healthy packet of red bean chili from Patagonia Provisions for a dinner that’ll be ready in 10 minutes. Grill off the back of your car with the effortless Hitchfire Grill or use the Primus’ Tupike portable dual-burner stove with its non-stick griddle plate. GSI's Outdoors Glacier Base Camper Cookset is a durable stainless steel cookset that will resist grime. Snowpeak’s Renewed Single Action Table is a sleek workhorse of a table that opens in seconds, seats up to 6 people, and is sturdy enough to work on. For a lighter, more-compact option, the Stoic Dirtbag Dining Table can’t be beat. Grab an Eno Lounger for you and an LL Bean Kids’ Base Camp Chair or Snowpeak’s kids chair for them. Last, but certainly not least, you want a strong coffee game. Opt for premium instant coffee options like Overview Coffee’s new Ethiopia Steeped Bag or pre-grind beans from one of these mission-driven coffee brands , and go pour-over style with MiiR’s stainless steel Pourigami coffee dripper.  

Pack fewer toys than usual, instead bringing along gear like compasses and binoculars.

Keep kids engaged

Nature knows how to wow kids of all ages, so you can keep the toys to a minimum. On the morning of the departure, surprise kids with a backpack— Fjallraven’s Kånken Art Mini for little tykes or Osprey’s Daylite for older kids—filled with a few inspiring goodies such as Brunton’s 8010 Eco Compass and How to Go Anywhere (and Not Get Lost): A Guide to Navigation for Young Adventurers to teach your budding camper about orienteering. The book includes exciting activities like mapping your campsite, using the sun to get your bearings, and creating your own star clock. Other items you might stash in the backpack are a headlamp , Educational Insights' Kidnoculars for toddlers and Nikon's Prostaff 3S 8x42 binoculars for bigger birders, a glow in the dark Nalgene , and favorite snacks (maybe a trail mix you made together). If it’s a long drive to the campsite, the new OtterBox Easy Grab Apple iPad Case hooks onto the back of car seats. Hiding a Geocache box in the woods, building forts, and learning how to build a fire are other classic camp crowd-pleasers. 

Camping trips are also a great opportunity to educate kids about Leave No Trace principles while nurturing an underlying respect for the environment. Bring Kelty’s vehicle-mounted Trash Pak or Parks Project’s DIY Park Pick Up Kit on a trash hike and discover how cleaning up the trails can be fun for the whole family (even the baby up in a child carrier is watching and learning). When the fire is roaring, music is playing from the Sonos Roam smart speaker, and the stars have joined the party, get ready to tell some not-too-scary campfire stories or fond memories from your childhood camping trips.

Prepare for the best—and otherwise

As the old proverb goes, “Hope for the best, plan for the worst.” For starters, buy the Adventure Medical Kit's Explorer Kit , which is equipped with everything you need from treating blisters to caring for a major wound. After your family has picked a campsite, familiarize yourself with the surroundings. Where is the closest ranger station and fresh water source? Are there bears in the area? Even if you’ve got a seven gallon water container, it’s a good idea to bring a bottle with a purifying system like Grayl Geopress Purifier water bottle in case you run out or miss a trail marker. If you need to call for help (or just stay reachable for work), you’ll have peace of mind with a signal booster like SureCall . Power your family’s electronic devices with a portable power station such as Jackery or Goal Zero (Dawes’ favorite piece of camping gear). For other great tips, join a supportive community of outdoorsy parents, like Raising Wild Kids on Facebook, if for no other reason than to see that you share many valid questions and concerns with fellow family camping newcomers.

3 bodies recovered in Mexico are likely those who went missing during camping, surfing trip

MEXICO CITY (AP) — Three bodies recovered in an area of Mexico’s Baja California state are likely to be those of the two Australians and an American who went missing last weekend during a camping and surfing trip, the state prosecutor’s office said Saturday.

While there has not yet been confirmation based on forensic examination, physical characteristics — including hair and clothing — means there is a high likelihood that the bodies are those of the three tourists, local TV network Milenio reported, citing chief state prosecutor María Elena Andrade Ramírez.

“It is presumed that (the bodies) are the ones being investigated,” an employee of the state prosecutors’ office who was not authorized to be quoted by name told The Associated Press.

The bodies were found in a well where investigators also found another body that authorities said would be investigated.

“A fourth body was located. It is not related to the three foreigners. The fourth body had been there for a long time,” the official added.

The site where the bodies were discovered near the township of Santo Tomás was near the remote seaside area where the missing men’s tents and truck were found Thursday along the coast.

The men — identified by family members as brothers Jake and Callum Robinson from Australia and American Jack Carter Rhoad — went missing Saturday. They did not show up at their planned accommodations over the weekend.

The U.S. State Department said: “We are aware of those reports (of bodies) and are closely monitoring the situation. At this time we have no further comment.”

Baja California prosecutors had said Thursday that they were questioning three people in the case. On Friday, the office said the three had been arrested on charges of a crime equivalent to kidnapping. It was unclear if they might face more charges.

Andrade Ramírez, the chief state prosecutor, said evidence found along with the abandoned tents was linked to the three people being questioned about the missing foreigners.

Milenio reported that she said the suspects appeared to have stolen the surfers’ truck and some of its parts were found in another truck belonging to one of the suspects.

On Wednesday, the missing Australians’ mother, Debra Robinson, posted on a local community Facebook page an appeal for help in finding her sons. Robinson said Callum and Jake had not been heard from since April 27. They had booked accommodations in the nearby city of Rosarito.

Robinson said one of her sons, Callum, was diabetic. She also mentioned that the American who was with them was named Jack Carter Rhoad, but the U.S. Embassy in Mexico City did not immediately confirm that. The U.S. State Department said it was aware of reports of a U.S. citizen missing in Baja, but gave no further details.

In 2015, two Australian surfers, Adam Coleman and Dean Lucas, were killed in western Sinaloa state, across the Gulf of California — also known as the Sea of Cortez — from the Baja peninsula. Authorities said they were victims of highway bandits. Three suspects were arrested in that case.

Copyright 2024 The Associated Press. All rights reserved.

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ESCAPE TO THE FARM EXCLUSIVELY YOURS

Allow Royle Forest to sweep you away into an enchanted world in which we provide an immersive experience where you’ll be transported to another time and place. This stunning estate consists of "The Farmhouse" which is a period 1600 Georgian farmhouse, and a fully renovated wedding cottage called "The Bear’s Lair", all masterfully designed by an award-winning interior designer.  

Allow Royle Forest to sweep you away into an enchanted world in which we provide an immersive experience. In our Georgian period farm buildings, you’ll be transported to another time and place. This stunning estate consists of The Farmhouse, a fully renovated hay barn called The Bear’s Lair, and a clearing with full Glamping capabilities conveniently located next to the Tipi's, all masterfully designed by an award-winning interior designer. The estate is ripe with lush, manicured gardens and a serene walking path around the perimeter of the surrounding forest, offering friendly benches and scenic areas near natural ponds. When you escape to the farm, you’ll have access to these unique and luxurious accommodations.

In true Royle Forest style we are carrying the level of uniqueness that is proving so popular across our onsite accommodation, the perfect blend of talking points to create an experience like no other with the highest level of luxury you can find. 

Designed to start your celebration early the night before, this accommodation with its very own private wedding cottage will only help to add to your Royle Forest magical wedding experience.

Click below to see what is included in your stay.

Georgian farmhouse meets artist

A farmhouse like no other. Your very own private art gallery. Spend your time in awe of the hand painted murals spanning the walls and beams.

Relax before your big day. With spa robes and slippers for every guest, combined with prosecco and the ultimate hot tub you and your guests will feel like you are in a private luxury spa.

Equally as impressive as inside, the artists touch extends to the surrounding victorian gardens. Complete with wild flower meadows, campfire, and gorgeous seating areas throughout for you to explore during your stay. 

The Farmhouse With a Twist Sleeps 6

Perfectly positioned on three incredible landscaped acres is our breathtaking three-bedroom Georgian period farmhouse. The home features brilliant design elements such as custom wall murals that have been hand-painted by our very own interior design mastermind.

Each room showcases its own unique luxuries with individual personalities based on the artists perception of the history of the room. To complete the high end feel of the property, a polished garden spans across the acreage surrounding the home, matching the splendor of the opulent indoor finishes. 

The Bear's Lair Wedding Cottage Sleeps 2

The Bear's Lair offers an eccentric variation on the farmhouse. What was once a hay barn is now a one-bedroom circus-themed rustic industrial cottage.

With hints of jazz-inspired decor and lavish furnishings, The Bear's Lair brings an entirely unique experience to life while maintaining the extravagance of the farmhouse. A private courtyard garden elevates the outdoor space as well, being spoilt for choice between an ultimate hot tub in he courtyard and indoor jacuzzi promising blissful relaxation. 

Glamping area included with the venue hire

For guests who prefer to totally immerse themselves in nature, we offer a camping experience in the forest.

Connected to the main tipi clearing  is a  intimate forest clearing where glamour and the outdoors merge to provide you with an upscale Glamping affair. You and your merry band of revelers can create a Glamping village where you can relish in the natural richness of the land. 

Already included free of charge in your venue hire, just hire in bell tents, toilets and shower if you want to utilise this area.

Guests can even bring their own tents and campervans.