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REAR MID-TRAVEL CONVERSION KIT

Berrien Buggy’s rear mid travel conversion kit. This kit is designed to convert standard IRS Volkswagen rear suspension to a true off-road rear suspension system. This kit provides 14″ of rear wheel travel. A minimum of changes is needed to install this unit in an existing Berrien Buggy frame equipped with a stock VW rear suspension. Welding is required to install the upper shock mount on the frame. Upper shock mounts vary and are frame specific.

The kit consists of 3 subcomponents, they are; the “dual pivot conversion”, 2X3 trailing arms, and the upper shock mount kit. Shock/spring units are not included and should be purchased separately. 2″ X 12″ coil over shock units with remote reservoir are required, our part number is C986-KSPR2012-COHRS , for VW powered cars. Berrien frames with other engine or transmission combinations may require a different spring rate and/or shock valving. The three components of the kit are:

C058-BB4501 : Dual pivot conversion with rod ends. These units have an inner “stabilizer lug” which rides in a urethane knobby grommet located inside the torsion housing. This design stabilizes the unit and provides a solid mount for the 3/4″ spherical rod end of the connector link. The inner and outer plates place the mounting of the rod end/link in double shear for strength and stability. The swedged chrome moly connector link is black anodized and has 3/4″ X 3/4″ steel spherical rod ends. This link mounts to the trailing arm in double shear. By having a spherical rod end at each end of the connector link, the link is able to rotate as the swing arm moves through it’s arc of travel, eliminating any bind.

C986-AO504 : A 2″ X 3″ chrome moly trailing arms. This super duty trailing arms are constructed with 1 1/4″ chrome moly tubing, then plated and gusseted to a third 1 1/4″ square central tube. The shock mounts are welded to the bearing carrier mount at the extreme outside end of the arm and again provide double shear mounting. The bearing carriers are steel and use standard Type 1 VW components. Mounting tabs for the connector link are welded to the front tube and provide double shear mounting.

C058-BB4502 : Upper shock mount kit. The upper mounts which must be welded into the frame, consisting of the thru mounting tubes, the re-enforcement gussets, mounting bolts, nuts, and washers. Depending on Berrien Buggy chassis, mounting plates are also provided. Non Berrien frames can also use this conversion kit by using a universal version of the upper shock mount.

Installation of the kit is generally straight forward. First, the original VW torsion bars, spring plates, grommets, and pivot arms are removed from the torsion housing. The cast shock towers are cut off the torsion housing, and the cut area is ground smooth. Next, the dual pivot conversion is bolted into the modified stock housing using the urethane knobby grommet. The stub axles, bearings, and seals are installed in the bearing housing of the trailing arms. With new urethane pivot bushings installed in the pivot end of the arms, the arms are bolted into the existing stock pivot boxes (for extreme use we suggest gusseting the pivot boxes). The location of the upper shock mount is then determined (measurements included in the kit), and the mount is then fitted to the chassis and final welded. The installation of 20″ limit straps are highly recommended.

This kit offers you the ability to radically upgrade the rear suspension of your VW based buggy WITHOUT the need to build a completely new car or radically modify your existing frame. This kit is a reasonably priced upgrade that produces truly amazing results.

PART NUMBERS

Mid-travel front conversion beam (ball joint to link-pin).

Berrien Buggy by Acme now offers a front beam assembly that allows the installation of a link/kingpin mid travel front suspension on a sand rail frame built for a ball joint front beam. This product allows you to install a sturdy link/king pin front end in your existing ball joint frame with NO WELDING!

Anyone with any knowledge of the of VW style front beams knows that the main tube spacing is different between a link pin front beam and a ball joint beam. The ball joint beam has wider vertical spacing between the main tubes to accommodate the wider spread between the trailing arms, needed to work with the ball joints. Because of this spacing difference, you cannot simply bolt the link pin beam in a ball joint frame.

Also, because of the spacing difference, you cannot simply use link pin arms in a ball joint beam, especially on an off-road suspension with longer travel. You end up with zero or negative caster. The top of the king pin leans forward. In this condition, the car is almost impossible to drive as it darts from side to side and is extremely dangerous.

The solution to the problem is to change the ratio between the upper and lower trailing arms. This ratio change causes the king pin to lean back and restore proper caster. While at rest the caster in our conversion beam is 3 to 4 degrees, as the suspension compresses caster increases causing the steering to become extremely stable. The added benefit of this increasing caster is easier steering under normal driving conditions.

After several prototypes were built we finally developed the current front beam assembly. Wheel travel is approximately 12” to 14”. We have tested the front end extensively in extreme off-road conditions, including large rock climbs, with no failures. We are now ready to offer our NO WELD solution for sale.

If you currently have a chassis built for a ball joint front end and want to increase your wheel travel, and the strength of your rail, we have the solution.

The conversion beam is available in +6” or +8” longer than stock widths to accommodate the large shock/coil spring units. It is available in the following configurations:

1. Beam with 1X2 forged trailing arms:

• +6” (C058-BB4512C)
• +8” (C058-BB4513C)
• 1X2 trailing arms,
• Urethane bushings
• Thru rods & clamps
• Standard spindles
• +6” (C058-BB4506C)
• +8” (C058-bb4507C)
• KING shock/spring units (C986-KSPR2008-COHRS)**

** These shock/spring units are rated for a VW powered car with a wheelbase of 95” to 105”.

Any other chassis configurations or engine combination would require units with different spring rates and different shock valving. A total car weight and corner weights would be necessary to determine the correct spring rate and shock valving.

Please also be aware that the beam is not sold separately. It is only available with our forged trailing arms.

MID-TRAVEL FRONT BEAM

Berrien Buggy by Acme introduces a true “bolt in” solution to convert a sandrail built with a stock VW torsion type front suspension. It is designed to bolt into any frame designed to use the link/king pin front beam. There is no welding required to install this assembly which uses traditional coil over, shock/spring units for suspension. This front suspension works well with either stock style rear suspension or with our Mid Travel rear suspension conversion package.

The basic beam is manufactured using chrome moly main tubes and CNC plasma cut shock mounts. The unit is fully jig welded and comes standard with bracing as pictured. The beam is available as +6” or +8” over stock width. The extra width is necessary to accommodate the larger diameter of the shock/spring units. The beam is also designed to use as a minimum 1”X 2” forged trailing arms for link/king pin spindles. A stock VW steering box may be used or R&P mounts can be installed.

The beam is available in one of 2 levels of completion, in either width.

1. Beam only; fully welded but with no hardware.

• C058-BB4510 (+6”)
• C058-BB4511 (+8″)

2. Spindle to spindle; supplied with:

• 1×2 trailing arms, urethane bushings,
• thru rods& clamps, standard spindles, & tie rods.
• C058-BB4508 (+6”) C058-BB4509 (+8”)

ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING KIT

Berrien Buggy by Acme offers an electric power steering unit suitable for installation in your buggy. Based on a General Motors SUV power steering unit, it converts manual steering into full power steering without the hassle of pumps, lines and reservoirs. The unit comes complete with the necessary parts to install in your buggy. The mounting bracket welds to a 1 1/2″ tube, the control ECU plate also welds to the tube. Electronics have been converted from Can-Buss to a standard electrical system. Feel can be adjusted with a gain knob.

The kit part number C986-BB1010 includes the following:

Steering unit Steering mount bracket 3/4″ X 36 spline steering shaft coupler 3/4″ steering shaft with flange 3/4″ spherical rod end support ECU mount Controller box Adjustment knob Steering ECU Output U-joint for 7/8″ steering shaft Plug and play wire harness

Installation instructions Installation is fairly straight forward; After location/orientation of the steering box is decided the main and ECU mounts are welded to the 1 1/2″ cross tube, making sure the ECU plate is close enough to the steering box for the harness to reach. The output U joint is installed onto the steering unit and a 7/8″ steering shaft is cut to length, then welded over the spud on the U-joint. The length of the steering input shaft is determined then the shaft is fed through the spherical rod and welded to the coupler. The wiring is installed per the instructions and the unit is ready to work.

CUSTOM TRAILING ARMS

Berrien Buggy by Acme sells the strongest trailing arms on the market today! Made from heavy-duty chromoly 1 1/4″ OD round and 1 1/2″ square tubing, they are designed with reliability in mind. Full-length 1/4″ plate gussets make these trailing arms near indestructible.  Designed to be used with stock VW-style components.  Shock mounts will need to be fabricated.

Custom Trailing Arms, pair Stock by Stock : C986-AO500

Stock x 1″ : C986-AO501

Stock x 2″ : C986-AO502

2″ x 2″ : C986-AO503

2″ x 3″ : C986-AO504

3″ x 3″ : C986-AO505

TUBULAR FRAME HORNS

Berrien has an answer to those old, bent or rusted-out VW frame horns.  Cut them off, and replace them with our Tubular Frame Horn Kit.  Designed to fit any stock IRS, Late Swingaxle, or our 2 1/2″ Custom Torsion.  (Early Swingaxles requires a small amount of grinding the cope for a perfect fit.)  Kit includes (2) Frame Horns,(4)  Tube End Cap Gussets, and (2) 3/4″ Transaxle Mount Bolts.

Tubular Frame Horn Kit: C058-BB502

Labor to Install on any Custom Torsion:  Call for Pricing.

FRAME HORN SUPPORT KIT

Berrien’s Frame Horn Support Kits are used to strengthen the frame horns, by connecting them to the upper cage. Available only for Berrien produced chassis (please specify chassis when ordering).

Frame Horn Support Kit: C058-BB671

Berrien has two models of front bumper for your sandrail.  Both are available in stock width, or “Wide Track” +6″ width.

Our Single Bar Front Bumper mounts to the front beam of your chassis with the supplied hardware kit.  It is designed to fit around the nose of our 3-pc. Fiberglass Body, but is also suitable for use on any chassis.  Please specify Link/Kingpin or Balljoint.

Our Double-Bar Front Bumper welds to the upper arm rail at the front of your chassis, and to the lower front clamps. Please specify chassis model and Link/Kingpin or Balljoint.

Single-Bar Front Bumper: C058-BB632

Single-Bar Front Bumper, “Wide Track” +6″ Width: C058-BB633

Double-Bar Front Bumper: C058-BB634

Double-Bar Front Bumper, “Wide Track” +6″ Width: C058-BB635

Getting hung up on a tree can be a hassle, not to mention, a potential cost if your valuable suspension and driveline components are damaged in the process.  Treebars are the answer.  Designed to “funnel” trees and other obstructions away from your rear wheels, the treebars will also provide a convenient “step” to assist in entering and exiting your rail. Available in double-bend (one size fits all chassis), and triple-bend (specify chassis when ordering).  Sold separately, or can be installed when you order your chassis.

Double-Bend Treebars: C058-BB637

Labor to Install Double-Bend Treebars: Call for Pricing.

Triple-Bend Treebars: C058-BB638   (specify chassis)

Labor to Install Triple-Bend Treebars: Call for Pricing.

CHASSIS BRACE KITS

When traveling over the dunes, even the most well-built chassis can experience some frame flex.  Our brace kits are designed to stiffen the front of the chassis, as well as add some upper roll cage reinforcement as well.  Please specify chassis model when ordering.

Chassis Brace Kit : C058-BB639

Chassis Brace Kit +6″ Width: C058-BB640

Labor to Install Brace Kit: Call for Pricing.

DOUBLE REAR ROLLBAR KIT

Adding a 2nd Rear Rollbar to your car can take it’s look, and it’s strength, to the next level.  Our Double Rear Rollbar Kits are TRUE side-to-side rollbars, not 3 piece rollbar “look-alikes”.  Please specify chassis model and cage height when ordering.

Double Rear Rollbar Kit: C058-BB641

Labor to Install Double Rear Rollbar Kit: Call for Pricing.

PICKUP STYLE REAR ROLLCAGE KIT

Going camping for the weekend? Need a place for all those coolers, sleeping bags, tents, etc.? The Pickup Style Rear Rollcage Kit converts your chassis’ rear rollcage into a “bed” for hauling gear, while giving the look of a pickup truck.  Specify chassis model and cage height when ordering. (Not available for Venture, Stalker or Stalker 2+2 Models).

Pickup Style Rear Cage Kit (Cruiser/Encore only): C058-BB672

Labor to Install (Cruiser/Encore only): Call for Pricing.

Pickup Style Rear Cage Kit (All Other Chassis): C058-BB673

Labor to Install (All Other Chassis): Call for Pricing.

Pickup Style Rear Cage Kit (+6″ Width): C058-BB642

Labor to Install (+6″ Width): Call for Pricing.

REPLACEMENT ENGINE UNDERBAR KIT

Damaged engine cages happen all the time. All it takes is a stray rock, tree, or sharp incline, plus a little speed, and your cage can get a bit twisted.  That’s why Berrien makes available replacement underbar kits for all our chassis.  Please specify chassis when ordering.

Underbar Kit, Bolt-On Lower Mount: C058-BB631   (Specify-Warrior or Cruiser only)

Underbar Kit, Slip-Fit Lower Mount: C058-BB631B   (All Other Chassis-Specify Model)

FULL-LENGTH POLISHED ALUMINUM DIAMOND TREAD PLATE FLOOR

Building a show buggy? Our heavy-duty polished aluminum floors are cut to the full-length of your chassis. Made from 3/16″ diamond tread plate, they are the perfect accent to your dream rail. Can be ordered separately (specify chassis), or installed on your chassis at the time of order.

Aluminum Tread Plate Floor: C058-BB630

Labor to Install (2 Seat Chassis Models): Call for Pricing.

Labor to Install (4 Seat Chassis Models): Call for Pricing.

3-PIECE FIBERGLASS BODY

Adding a fiberglass body can help protect you from the elements, and also give you a canvas to express your rail’s character.  Fabricating your own body panels can be a pain, so we did it for you!  Available only for Warrior, 295, 2100, and 4105. Your choice, solid colors or metalflake.

3-Piece Fiberglass Sandrail Body for Warrior/295, Solid Colors: C058-BB302

3-Piece Fiberglass Sandrail Body for Warrior/295, Metalflake Colors:  C058-BB302A

3-Piece Fiberglass Sandrail Body for 2100/4105, Solid Colors:  C058-BB303

3-Piece Fiberglass Sandrail Body for 2100/4105, Metalflake Colors:  C058-BB303A

Available in your choice of 34 Gelcoat Colors:

-18 Metalflake Colors

-16 Solid Colors

Color representations are a close approximation. Actual product color may vary slightly.

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The Ultimate Guide to Sandrails and Dune Buggies

What is a Sandrail?

A sand rail, sometimes known as a rail, or sand car, is a compact off-road vehicle made particularly for navigating sand-filled areas. A sand rail is a unique kind of specialty vehicle that is similar to a dune buggy in certain ways and is sometimes misidentified as a sand car or dune buggy. Popular dunes on which to run sundials. Although Sandrails are made primarily for sand, they may be driven on various terrain.

Sand Rail History

After World War II, soldiers returning home were accustomed to operating off-road jeeps and tanks. The off-road community was created as a result of their increased discretionary cash. Driving on the sand and beaches was a component of this off-road activity. 

Who invented the sand rail? 

Pete Beiring reduced a damaged Volkswagen frame in 1958 and repurposed it. The first dune buggy known as the “Sportster” was built using Pete’s original design two years later, in 1960. “Sand rail” first appeared in the middle of the 1960s. By the 1970s, the majority of VW-powered tubular chassis sand rails were created and constructed by their owners. Compared to the original buggies, the first sand rails were stronger, lighter, and capable of climbing higher dunes. 

Modern Sand Rails 

The original outdated sand rails were modified to accommodate contemporary shock technology and increased suspension travel in the late 1990s when the desert racing scene began to take off. Mid-travel and long-travel were the names given to these new sand tracks.

Today, if you go to the dunes, you could witness a mixture of the vintage buggies from the 1970s and the newer, more contemporary mid and long-journey rails. 

Terms Used to Describe a Sand Rail

Sand rails are frequently referred to as buggies by people. They are all various types of vehicles in theory. Since sand rails evolved from buggies, the most common names for sand rails were sand buggy and sand rail. 

As buggies and sand rails developed, new terminology was created to describe these new vehicles. The full list of terms is shown below.

• Sand Buggies 
• Water Pumpers
• Pan Buggies
• Tunnel Buggies
• Long-Travel

Rather than using the phrase “sand rail” to describe the original fiberglass buggies, the term “buggy” is used to describe all the numerous varieties of sand rails. 

Driving a Sand Rail in The Dunes

Sand rails are designed to move on soft sand. Since they are light, they can glide across the sand’s surface without becoming caught. Most sand rails have their motors at the back to make their front ends lighter. They can readily turn on dune faces and ascend steep hills because of their low center of gravity. 

A unique type of tire known as a paddle tire is mounted on the back sand rails. To improve speed and traction in the sand, these tires contain rubber paddles that sweep down into the ground. To reduce drag on the sand and improve peak speeds, the front tires use smooth rubber tires with no tread or very little tread. Sand rails are constructed entirely to be driven solely on sand, down to the tires. Because of this, rails and buggies are frequently seen on the dunes. To travel on mud or gravel roads, some owners do swap their paddle tires for conventional tires, but this is not very frequent. Sand Rails were designed to be driven on sand. 

Different Types of Sand Rails 

Each sand rail may be customized with various engine options, seating configurations (one, two, or four seats), and decorative elements. Even though each is unique, most sand rails may be divided into one of these three groups depending on the front end and suspension they have. 

Long Travel

These rails are the most expensive and also the most comfortable. They have coil over suspension and A-arm construction. They have the most contemporary look.

 Another modern style that is also built with A-arms but has stock suspension instead of coil overs.

 These sand rails’ front end and suspension are genuine Volkswagen components, and they feature I-beam construction. 

Engines and Performance Modifications

Sand rails are constructed using several engine types (V-4, V-6, and V-8). Because it is readily available and has reasonably priced components, the air-cooled Volkswagen is a popular choice. Other sand rails engine alternatives include fuel-injected Honda motors, LS engines, and Subaru engines. 

The majority of sand rails run on premium unleaded gasoline, however, certain motors with higher horsepower need racing fuel. 

Designs and Accessories

Since sand rails are often manufactured to order, each one is distinct. Each rail is unique, whether it has a roof or not, the design and color of the frame, and the artwork. 

Custom seats and coverings, sand tires, communication headsets, GPS navigation, light bars, LED lights, light-up whips, and radio systems are some of the most well-liked extras. 

What Is Dune Buggy?

A dune buggy, often referred to as a beach buggy, is a type of recreational vehicle with big wheels and broad tires that is used for off-roading or desert fun on dunes, beaches, and other similar terrain. Typically, the design consists of a topless car with an engine situated in the back. A vehicle can be converted into a dune buggy, or a brand-new one can be built specifically for the purpose.

History of the Dune Buggy

Meyers Manx, founded by Bruce Meyers, an artist, mechanic, boat builder, and surfer, is credited with creating the dune buggy. Meyers gave this enduring automobile its distinctive design.

Meyers’ dune buggy was the first of its kind to be mass manufactured, transcending the concept of a custom-built vehicle. The automobile, which was based on a Volkswagen Beetle and whose engine it also used, was around 36 cm shorter and featured a fiberglass body to lighten it up.

Due to the historical context, the dune buggy rose to prominence as the symbol of nonconformity in the late 1960s. When Meyers offered assembly kits to alter Beetles towards the end of their lifetimes, numerous manufacturers imitated his idea.

Who invented the dune buggy?

Bruce Meyers came up with the idea for the first dune buggy in the 1960s. Meyers asserts that he was not the first to create the dune buggy because other models of the same vehicle were already in production at the time, but he was the first to market and make widely available his design for a fiberglass dune buggy that was based on a Volkswagen Beetle.

Are dune buggies dangerous?

While operating or riding a dune buggy is not inherently dangerous, extreme sports like dune bashing can carry some risk. Generally speaking, the ride will be bumpier the steeper the dunes are. Pregnant women, small children, and those with heart issues should not ride in a dune buggy.

Cost of a Dune Buggy

The price might vary greatly depending on the kind of engine, accessories, and sand rail design. Additionally, the cost will vary significantly depending on whether you are having a rail specially made or building it yourself. 

Here are the three primary styles and a range of their usual sale prices so you can have a better sense of what to anticipate paying for a finished sand rail. 

• Long Travel: $35,000 – $100,000
• Mid Travel: $8,000 – $15,000
• Old School: $4,000 – $9,000

Staying Safe in The Dunes

It is critical to use caution when using sand rails. The rails’ construction was done with passengers’ safety in mind. Every driver and passenger is required to use a three-point safety seatbelt. To protect passengers in the event of a rollover, rail frames double as roll cages. 

Dune buggies must carry a red or orange sand safety flag on the top when traveling in any dunes recreation area. These safety flags contribute to better visibility and accident avoidance. 

Another thing to remember is to always keep your arms and legs within the roll cage when riding on a sand rail. To avoid getting sand in your eyes, you should also use eye protection, such as goggles. 

Dune Buggy Industry Today

These vehicles have progressed from the original dune buggy to the more contemporary sand rails, and the industry as a whole has grown in popularity. Today, sand rail competitions, special occasions, clubs, groups, and performances exist.

What is the Difference Between a Sand Rail and a Dune Buggy?

Sand rails are constructed from a bespoke frame, and dune buggies are customized versions of existing vehicles. They are both made to be driven in the sand. High-performance engines, a tubular chassis, and a roll cage are typical components of sand rails. Dune buggies are not as quick, many of them are street-legal, and some even have fiberglass frames. 

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Frequently asked questions, what is the trans-siberian railway.

By definition, the Trans-Siberian railway is the longest railroad of Russia and the world, connecting the central part of the country with the Far East. If you look at the Trans-Siberian railway route map , you'll see that the train begins its journey in Moscow, following further through the Volga River, turning to the Ural Mountains and Siberia.

In the city of Yekaterinburg, the train turns to Omsk and Novosibirsk, crossing the Ob River, following Krasnoyarsk and heading to the Yenisei. Further, the road goes to Irkutsk, winding along the southern coast of the majestic Lake Baikal. The train runs through a small territory of the Gobi Desert and Khabarovsk, straight to the final destination, Vladivostok. The total Trans-Siberian Railway length adds up to around 9200 kilometers (5716 mi)!

How long does it take to travel on the Trans-Siberian Railway?

Generally, traveling from one side of Russia to the other takes 7 days provided that you go by Moscow to Vladivostok direct train without any stops en route. However, if you plan to discover more of Russia and explore some destinations during 1 to 2-day stops along your way from Moscow to Siberia, the time can vary a lot, depending on which cities you plan to stay in and for how long.

How many time zones does the Trans-Siberian Railway cross?

Traveling Trans-Siberian railroad can be compared with traveling through time as the railway covers 8 time zones! Interestingly, Russia has a total of 11 time zones. Moreover, the difference in time between Moscow and Vladivostok is 7 whole hours! Thus, when it's afternoon in the Russian capital, it is dinnertime in Vladivostok.

Is the Trans-Siberian Railway safe?

In general, the Trans-Siberian train journey is quite safe. However, we would advise to consider the human factor and recommend to take a ticket to the compartment with a door that can be locked from the inside (these are 1st or 2nd class sleeper cars of regular Russian trains ) as to not to worry about all the valuable things you take with you. It is a simple precaution but never keep your valuables unattended or scattered around the compartment, especially while you're sleeping.

What is the best time for Trans-Siberian Railway journey?

Planning a voyage of a lifetime, you can't but think about the best season for your Trans-Siberian expedition. Well, it is hard to advise upon this question as the answer totally depends on what type of landscape you are attracted to most. If you are charmed by the pictures of white slopes and dense forests covered with crunchy snow, you should definitely plan your trip between November and February. ​But, anyway, we guess you won't be surprised at all by hearing that the most popular months for trips to Siberia along the world's longest railroad are between May and August. This time of the year provides the most comfortable weather conditions to explore the cities at all the Trans-Siberian stops as well as to admire breathtaking views of Siberian taiga, gorgeous Lake Baikal, sloping hills of Mongolia , and a lot more both from the train window and during stops.

What are the best stops on the Trans-Siberian Railway?

The first thing you should take into the account is that you can start your Trans-Siberian journey either from the west or the east. The choice of the direction depends on whether you are going to make Moscow , Vladivostok , Ulan Bator , or even Beijing the last point of your trip. Usually, a Trans-Siberian tour includes such Russian cities as Moscow, Kazan, Ekaterinburg, Irkutsk, Ulan-Ude , Khabarovsk, and Vladivostok. Each of the cities mentioned has something unique and special that will help you to see Russia and its culture from different angles so it is really hard to distinguish the best destinations. However we can assure you that any Siberian railroad tour won't do without visiting the real gem of the region, stunning Lake Baikal, so the stop in Irkutsk is an unmissable one. If you decide to enrich your vacation by immersing into the charms of Asia, you may extend your Trans-Siberian itinerary with the northern capital of Russia, Saint Petersburg as well as the capital cities of Mongolia and China. You may read more about the best stops on the Trans-Siberian railway on the Most Famous Russian & Siberian Cities page .

How to travel along the Trans-Siberian Railway?

How many bridges does the trans-siberian railway cross.

The Trans-Siberian railroad crosses 16 large rivers, including the Volga, the Irtysh, the Kama, the Ob, the Yenisei, the Amur, and some others. The total number of bridges that the train passes from start to finish is 3901. Interestingly, the summed distance of all these bridges is more than 100 km (62 miles)!

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Trans-Siberian Railway Prices

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Ticket prices for the Trans-Siberian Railway also depend on the current ruble exchange rate.

Is the Trans-Siberian Railway expensive?

Before starting on your Trans-Siberian Railway adventure you naturally want to know what the entire trip will cost. Although this sounds like a simple question, it is pretty difficult to answer. The Trans-Siberian Railway price of travel depends on the following factors:

• Which travel class do I want to use? The price for a first class ticket is about three times the price of a 3rd class ticket
• Am I willing to buy the tickets myself and assume responsibility for the organisation of the trip?
• How many stopovers do I want to make? The more breaks, the higher the total price.
• What sort of accommodation do I want? Will it be a luxury hotel or will a hostel dormitory be sufficient?
• What tours and excursions would I like to go on?
• What is the current exchange rate for rubles?

Basically, everything from a luxury to a budget holiday is available. If you buy yourself a 3rd Class nonstop ticket at the counter, a few hundred Euros will cover the price. All you will experience is a week on the Trans-Siberian train and will see nothing of the cities on the way. There is, however, any amount of room for upward expansion. Everyone makes different choices about which aspects they are willing to spend money on. I personally prefer to save money on accommodation and railcar class, visit as many cities and do as many trips as possible. To enable better classification of your travel expenses I have contrasted two typical traveler types. In the third column you can calculate the total cost of your own journey on the Trans-Siberian Railway. Please keep in mind that these are only rough estimations and not exact prices.

The all-in costs seem fairly high at first. However, they cover everything and it is quite a long journey taking four weeks. Many people forget to consider that when looking at the list. We should also deduct the running costs for food and leisure at home. I think most visitors to this page will classify themselves somewhere between the two categories, that is around the € 2,000 – € 2,500 range. When comparing these prices with other travel packages, you get the impression that it is hardly worthwhile travelling individually on the Trans-Siberian Railway. Please keep in mind that most packages last no more than 14 days and you are herded like cattle through the most beautiful locations.

If you spend less time on the Trans-Siberian Railway you will, of course, pay less. I chose this particular travel length because I prefer not to do things by halves. If you fulfill your dream of travelling on the Trans-Siberian Railway, enjoy it and don’t rush things. But it’s up to you, of course. Try playing around with the form a bit to find the appropriate price for your trip.

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