traveller premium hydraulic fluid

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Hyguard versus traveller hydraulic oil

• Thread starter 4010 puller
• Start date Apr 2, 2018

4010 puller

Well-known member.

• Apr 2, 2018

Hi guys what's the difference between the two different brands of oil other than price? Hyguard is $70 a 5 gallon bucket and traveller or other brands are $25-35 a five gallon bucket, the cheap stuff meets John Deere 20 a and b specs, it says j20b is hyguard. What's the major difference and is jd brand that much better?  

Some years back I bought drums of hy-gard. When oil prices exploded I started to let customers furnish their own hydraulic oil. I have empty buckets of every color around here now. Those that are better farmers and particular bring JD oil. Those that are border-line and don't take care of their tractors bring off brands. I don't know who is right. One oil might be as good as the other.  

I was tring to find information on the same subject this morning and ran across this information on universal hydraulic fluid. http://www.pqiamerica.com/THF%20Reprint.pdf  

Could not edit my other post, i think this link will work. PQIA Universal hydro fluid  

Travellers Premium combo trans and hydraulic oil has much lower quantities of antiwear additives as compared to Hygard.  

• Apr 3, 2018

In general if the tractor your going to be using it in has any oil bath clutches or power shift clutch packs then you had better use the better hydraulic oil. I have had several tractors over the years that the owners had used the cheaper hydraulic oil and the clutches delaminated. Took them apart and they looked good but the clutch facings were no longer bonded to the drive plates. The $25 a pail oil is NOT made for oil bath clutches. It may say it is JD 303 equal but if you read the fine print they usually say not for oil bath clutches/power shift tractors. The oils that say trans/hydraulic are usually higher price but are made for oil bath clutch packs and such. Remember that even your old JD 4020 has oil bath brake plates. The "cheap" oil can ruin them too. The worst one I ever saw was a JD 7600 with only 1700 hours on it. The owner changed the hydraulic oil and use some cheaper oil out of a barrel he had bought "cheap" at TSC. In about 20 hours his tractor quit pulling itself. He brought it to me and all the pressure checked out. He told me he had just changed the oil and filters. He went back and read the label real close on the barrel of oil he had bought. It was not made for oil bath clutch packs. Even though it said all over in BIG print it was JD 303 equivalent. He saved $300 on the barrel. The parts and labor to repair the power shift transmission, PTO clutch, and brake disks was just over $9500. Not a very good investment. The clutch facing all looked like new but they no longer where bonded to the steel plates so they slipped.  

I hope everyone takes the time and read the link below on aftermarket Universal Htdraulic/ Trans Fluid, appears to be very good info to use at your as you like.  

buickanddeere

303 Hy-Gard is a very old and low spec oil from the 1960’s . Off brand oil that is only 303 spec maybe fine in a self contained log splitter hydraulic system but don’t put it in your tractor .  

That has little to do with what the guy posted. Sounds like he asked about the Travellers brand that is sold as a Hygard equivalent. NOT a 303 oil. Warren Oil makes that Travellers Premium trans-hydraulic oil and the specs on it show it only has half the high-pressure anti-wear additives as compared to Hygard.  

Good article David. Thanks for the link. Seems like it's alway's the same old dilema. Can I go cheap and save a bunch of money? The answer is alway's no but folks are determined to try it anyway. The bottom line is any old Deere mechanic has learned what the cheap oil costs in damage. Seen it too many times. There are other oils out there that are just as good as the Hyguard but you aren't going to find them for less than half the Deere price.  

There is no direct equivalent spec for Hygard. Deere says it "exceeds J20C." One big difference see in the spec sheets is Hygard has 5% ZDDP anti-wear additives. Travellers Premium universal tractor fluid has around 1%.  

Back in the day had a friend put off brand in his IH 966 instead of IH oil trashed the whole hydraulic system.  

• Apr 4, 2018

I always looked at it as Hy-Gard is good enough for them as JD is using it in the NEW tractors they sell and have to stand behind them with a warranty. If I used something else instead of what is called for I'd then stay up at night wondering if it was good enough ? And as an added bonus I used some in a dehumidifier fan to oil the bearings and it really did last WAY LONGER than other oils I put in there before. So I figured it must really be good oil.  

• Apr 5, 2018

I read somewhere there is oil then there is Hy-Gard oil. Looks like the dehumidifier test proves it.  

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Traveller “Premium Tractor Hydraulic Fluid” T806391 for Leblond Headstock

• Thread starter itsmeBernie
• Start date Nov 2, 2022
• Views 3,563

itsmeBernie

• Nov 2, 2022

I have a squarehead 13 inch Regal. I’m getting mixed information on this particular oil I found at Tractor Supply, whether it is detergent or non-detergent: Traveller “Premium Tractor Hydraulic Fluid” T806391 https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...DhZTTtlFfE3K1QL-mEjNEwoB2Nnked6EaAg1REALw_wcB In the price tag above the bucket on the ground, it says ISO/46. My problem it does not say either way on the actual bucket. On the webpage it does not say there is detergent or not, but somewhere down in the questions and answers somebody thinks it does. I was hoping to get some opinions here if this is the right stuff for my machine here. If it’s the right stuff, it would be a good deal and I could just pick it up and drive it home. I just don’t want to get stuck with 5 gallons of the wrong stuff. If it is the right stuff, it’s only 60 bucks for 5 gallons and I can just pick it up and bring it home instead of ordering it. Thank you for your time Bernie  

For mine,I d think ISO 46 a bit light .....unless your workshop is freezing year round.........my choice is ISO 68 ,which is equivalent to 20 grade engine oil.........hydraulic oils and transmission oils do not contain detergents ,there is no need for them........in general hydraulic oils are rated as either R&O ,or as AW .......either is suitable for a lathe gear transmission..........if the lathe spends long periods unused in a cold shop, then Id lean to an R&O ,which may shed water better than an AW oil...............NEVER use an EP rated oil that smells like cabbage or onions.....EP oils contain chemicals that corrode gears in the presence of condensation.  

Thanks so much John, I wonder what is in there right now.. It looks quite green actually, and had a bit of a smell. It sat in a storage unit for 15 years before I got it. It is probably a good thing I am about to change that oil out. Bernie  

Attachments

Oils are sometimes pale green ......supposedly back in the day ,the best oil was Pennsylvania oil ,and it had a green flourescence.....so anyone making an oil had to dye it green .........with a lathe thats been stored ,first thing I d check is whats under the oil ......rub a finger tip along the lower surface of the head ,and see if it comes up covered in black grainy sludge.........if it does ,the drain the oil ,and very carefully wash this sludge out of the drain holes with some solvent and brushes ....try to avoid spreading this sludge anywhere inside the head ,and swill it out the drain hole.,and be sure the nooks and crannies are clean .  

• Nov 3, 2022

46 is too light. Run 68.  

John Garner

I haven't seen a LeBlond in quite a while, but I recall that most LeBlond Regal lathes I've ever seen had a factory tag on the headstock something along the lines of "SAE 20 motor oil". That said, I've known two lubrication engineers over the years that recommended using Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) meeting either the now obsolete "Type A, Suffix A" or General Motors' "Dexron" specification for "general use" in both hydraulic and mechanical applications. Both of them cautioned me that ATF meeting Ford's "Type F" specification was not at all suitable for such use, as Type F was formulated to grab when the fluid film was below a certain thickness. Since then, I've used Dexron ATF in light lathe headstocks, light milling machine gearboxes, water-pumping windmill gearboxes, and manual transmissions without it causing any problems. I've also used the Dexron in my general-purpose oilcans and automotive hydraulic jacks without problems other than it creating pink stains on my shirts. Bottom line, I'm not a lubrication engineer myself and thus won't recommend you use Dexron ATF in your LeBlond; I am simply passing along an anecdote. At the same time, I would use Dexron ATF in a 13 inch LeBlond Regal's headstock if I owned one. (And for the record, I know that 13 inch Regals were never the ne plus ultra lathes, but I have a very special place in my heart for them.)  

Phil in Montana

Just use 20wt engine oil, you are splash lubing sper gears, not a Swiss watch ...Phil  

A tribologist recommended I switch to an ISO68 way oil in the headstock. I'm using some stuff from Schaeffers with no issues at all, found out it is actually recommended by the manufacturer for gearboxes and headstocks as well as slide ways.  

Phil in Montana said: Just use 20wt engine oil, you are splash lubing sper gears, not a Swiss watch ...Phil Click to expand...

• Nov 11, 2022

I really appreciate all of your opinions. Anyone know how the hell to find out the actual specs on this oil? Does TS make it hard to find specific specs on purpose? Their website is useless. All you can do is search the name of a tractor, instead of just saying what the effing oil actually is. I can't even find out if this "Premium" oil is "R&O" or "AM." I have googled the hell out of it. I was told by a very knowledgable and experienced machine rebuilder, who rebuilds Leblonds, to put R&O if possible, as AM oils are really for very high pressure applications, usually with different additives. He did say most important is to be lubed at all, but if I am going to be stuck with 5 gallons of this stuff it is fair to be able to know what the hell it is. Trying to derive from suggested uses, it lists: "Engineered for" -farm equipment -off-highway machinery -power steering units "Employs a common sump to lubricate" -hydrostatic transmissions -differentials -wet brakes -hydraulics -final drive gears I know it isn't life or death, but really effing annoying that this basic info is so hard to find. MOST of the applications listed sound like "slinging" oil situations, as opposed to high pressure, back hoe cylinder fluid. Just tell me which oil in your damn store is actually right for what application, unless they are actually making every single oil in the place sound like it works for almost everything??  

dalmatiangirl61

The R&O or AW is usually right on the label in big letters. I'm running AW68 in my lathes, but there is no humidity, and my shop temp changes super slowly. Edit: Just looked at TSC site, looks like its all just labeled with ISO now, guess they've changed the labeling. Even the ISO68AW says it has rust and oxidation inhibitors. Maybe you have a lubricants supplier with better info on their products nearby?  

You are worrying way too much.  

Garwood said: You are worrying way too much. Click to expand...

• Nov 12, 2022

If the brand of R&O oil in the compressors was changed ,everyone would go home sick..........one time a repair outfit offered an oil change free .....the new manager bit on the deal ,everyone went off sick ,next day the oil was changed back to BP R&O 68......and the owners chewed out the new manager for loss of a whole days revenue.............incidentally R&O is turbine quality oil ,and doesnt form "shellac" that blocks the coolers.  

• Nov 13, 2022

itsmeBernie said: I hear you. I'm not actually worried, but now I don't like that obvious info I would want when buying oil to be so difficult to pin down. It shouldn't be this hard to know. There is no Tractor Supply store near me, so I had to wait until I was driving near one again, which was today. UNLIKE the website, going to the store the label says the opposite: "This product is NOT recommended for transmissions, differentials, wet brakes or final drive gears." It might not matter in my case, but this makes me think this is not technically the right oil for a gearbox, but really an "AW" oil. It says it is equivalent to Denison HF-0, which is meant for high pressure applications. Maybe I am incorrect. Simplest answer is probably to just buy Mobil and not bother with Tractor Supply at all. That's probably my problem. Bernie Click to expand...

• Dec 12, 2022

Not sure if it helps, Monarch recommends Moblie Mobil DTE Heavy Medium (ISO68)  

• Dec 13, 2022

itsmeBernie said: I really appreciate all of your opinions. Anyone know how the hell to find out the actual specs on this oil? Does TS make it hard to find specific specs on purpose? Their website is useless. All you can do is search the name of a tractor, instead of just saying what the effing oil actually is. I can't even find out if this "Premium" oil is "R&O" or "AM." I have googled the hell out of it. I was told by a very knowledgable and experienced machine rebuilder, who rebuilds Leblonds, to put R&O if possible, as AM oils are really for very high pressure applications, usually with different additives. He did say most important is to be lubed at all, but if I am going to be stuck with 5 gallons of this stuff it is fair to be able to know what the hell it is. Trying to derive from suggested uses, it lists: "Engineered for" -farm equipment -off-highway machinery -power steering units "Employs a common sump to lubricate" -hydrostatic transmissions -differentials -wet brakes -hydraulics -final drive gears I know it isn't life or death, but really effing annoying that this basic info is so hard to find. MOST of the applications listed sound like "slinging" oil situations, as opposed to high pressure, back hoe cylinder fluid. Just tell me which oil in your damn store is actually right for what application, unless they are actually making every single oil in the place sound like it works for almost everything?? Click to expand...

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Is Traveler Universal Premium Hydraulic fluid compatible with 134D fluid?

• Thread starter Jacey
• Start date Dec 3, 2022

• Thread Starter

Sorry, couldn't get both uploaded....hope somebody knows. I blew an o ring or something..and need to see where the problem is. Will go back with the good stuff once I'm not wasting it.  

Attachments

Seven Gables

Gold member.

Yes , I’ve used it for years in my fords  

Elite Member

What is GL/API rating needed on tractor specs.... Does the intended fluids meet or exceeded those rating?.... To me the GL/API rating seems to be the only "common spec" for fluids because most tractor manufacturers seem to what you to use their "branded" product although the fluid in containers may come from same huge vat but just different labels on retail containers....  

Good to hear...do you know if the Japanese ones might be any different tho? I didn't see my model listed...but it wasn't an extensive list. You wouldn't have a 1210 by any chance?  

AS to the GL rating...I dunno. My mechanic won't be available to answer some of these questions until Monday  

Veteran Member

That dosnt have wet clutches or a wet brake so cheap fluid should be fine. If it does I would spend the $90 for 5gal on the correct stuff from the dealer. The $60 your saving on fluid may really come back to bight you if it was a wet clutch/brake system.  

I found the SC 134D on the label after looking closer. I do have expensive stuff hate to waste as it drips on the ground. I don't know what a wet clutch/brake system is, but I don't think I have one. My problem looks like it may be coming from oil cooler. Not sure why but running all the implements didn't cause it to drip until several hours later when I restarted it. Then it started drooling on the ground...so at least i can see where it's coming from. Probably have to take off the bonnet?  

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