heinkel tourist benzinhahn

Die Mitglieder des Heinkel-Clubs sind die wahren Kenner der Materie. Wir haben aus den verschiedenen Quellen (Henning, Pteng, Eckhard, Bernhard u.v.m.) das Wissen hier zusammengefasst und geordnet.

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Mein Tourist macht Probleme

Heinkel Tourist June 1 1962

HEINKEL TOURIST

Cycle World Scooter Test

ACCORDING to the makers of the Heinkel Tourist, it is a “de-luxe long range scooter with a world famous engineering name ..." If any of our readers were vacationing in Europe somewhere between 1942 to 1946 we are certain they have heard the name before. The Heinkel HE 70 and HE 111 airplanes were some of the most formidable in the air and literally bristled with engineering innovations that were new to aviation.

Heinkel’s current model is another example of an interesting engineering approach surrounded by a handsome body package. As the name “Tourist” implies, the Heinkel was designed for comfortable long distance travel. For this purpose it would be difficult to find a scooter more ideally suited. The smooth, one-cylinder, 4-cycle engine is quiet and the rated 12 hp gives an amazing performance considering the size and weight of the machine. In heavy traffic we easily stayed ahead of the main flow of traffic while thoroughly beating many automobiles in the process.

Quite naturally the weight is an asset to riding comfort, though it usually detracts from handling ability. We objected to the weight and bulk of the Heinkel, but considering that it is primarily designed to haul two people, plus a certain amount of luggage or camping equipment, in comfort and for long distances, our objections were easily over-ridden.

The Heinkel takes a back seat to few two-wheeled vehicles in the performance department; the acceleration from a standstill to average allowable traffic speed is amazing, considering the 175cc engine. Top speed is over 60 mph and it imparts a considerable degree of confidence with its excellent stability at this speed. One of CYCLE WORLD’S staffers, when following another in his automobile behind the Heinkel, remarked how much it looked like a full size motorcycle when being ridden through a series of “S” bends. As with any machine, the success, or failure, of its handling abilities lies in its suspension geometry.

We especially liked the front end arrangement. In place of what has become almost common scooter design, the trailing or leading arm system, the Heinkel employs a type more conventional to motorcycle design, straight telescopic forks. We have to confess to preferring the straight fork arrangement as the degree of rider control is greater and it does not have the “spongy” feeling that the multi-link front end system gives. The Heinkel drives through and over the roughest and deepest troughs on the worst street near our offices in a secure manner. The absence of the typical leaping of most scooters through sharp dips further proved the validity of our preferences.

The Heinkel deserves special praise for its styling; not a member of the staff disagreed with the summary of its design — one of the best looking scooters we have ever seen, decorative and yet quite practical in concept. The overall finish is also excellent.

Several claims of unusual construction are qualified for the Heinkel as well, one being the interesting frame upon which the engine and transmission, suspension systems and body are mounted. It consists of a tubular structure that runs in a conventional motorcycle fashion from the steering head down, and then forks over and under the engine. The upper traverse serves as a firm hanger for the body, the lower portion holds the engine in three rubber-bushed mounts that almost completely absorb engine vibrations. The vibration-free characteristics must be considered another excellent feature of the Heinkel.

A brief technical description includes: 4-stroke, single cylinder, 60mm bore, 61.5mm stroke, 174cc capacity, compression ratio 1:7.4, air-cooled engine that is rated at 12 hp @ 5750 rpm. 4-speed gear box operated by a left hand twistgrip, 4.00 x 10 tires, 329 lbs total weight, fuel consumption approximately 50 mpg, and electric starting; price is $595.00, FOB West Coast. •

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1960 Heinkel Tourist 103A-1 Scooter

This 1960 Heinkel Tourist 103A-1 scooter was acquired by the seller as a project in 2019 and subsequently underwent a refurbishment that was completed in April 2021. Work included a repaint in dark blue and refinishing the frame, as well as a refresh of the 175cc four-stroke single, reupholstered seat, replacement tires, and electrical updates. Shifting is through a four-speed manual transmission, and the scooter is equipped with a two-up seat, aluminum floor board, spare tire, locking storage compartment, and a luggage rack. This Heinkel scooter is offered at no reserve with refurbishment photos, owner’s and service manuals, a Heinkel key chain and pennant, and a clean Massachusetts title in the seller’s name.

Previously finished in red, the scooter was disassembled and received a two-stage repaint in Oslo Blue following dent repairs. Features include a two-up seat with a replacement foam padding and a cover said to be sourced from the Heinkel Club of Germany, cast aluminum floor board, a rear luggage rack, a locking under-seat storage compartment, and a battery tender pigtail. The rear view mirror, front bumper, and headlight ring are said to have been replaced, and LED reproduction front turn signals were installed. The seller notes that the scooter is equipped with mounts for a sidecar and the taillight is an aftermarket item. A paint imperfection on the right fender can be seen in the gallery along with images taken before the paintwork.

Steel two-piece 10″ wheels were refinished and wear replacement 4.00-10 Mitas B14 tires and tubes installed by the seller. Braking is handled by drums at both ends, and a spare tire and rim is mounted on the rear bodywork. A replacement front shock was installed per the seller.

Instrumentation consists of a VDO 80-mph speedometer that contains a five-digit odometer showing under 8k miles, approximately 200 of which have been added during current ownership. The control cables were said to be replaced with Teflon items, along with the grips, and the seller notes that the locking steering column security feature does not function as intended.

The air-cooled 175cc four-stroke single is paired with a four-speed manual transmission shifted from the left grip and fitted with a sidecar 30-tooth drive sprocket. The top end of the engine was reportedly overhauled and received replacement valves, springs, guides, and rings. The electrical wiring, engine mounts, and ignition components are also said to have been replaced at that time.

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BaT Essentials

• Chassis: 0206314
• 8k Miles Shown
• Air-Cooled 175cc Four-Stroke Single
• Four-Speed Manual Transmission
• Oslo Blue Paint
• Refinished Frame
• Two-Up Seat
• Rear Luggage Rack
• Locking Storage Compartment
• Owner’s Manual
• Parts Book & Service Manual

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• Owner's manual

HEINKEL TOURIST Owner's Manual

• page of 74 Go / 74

Table of Contents

• HEINKEL Service
• Technical Data
• Carburettor
• Micronic Air Filter
• Electrical Equipment
• Wheel Changing
• Bowden Cables
• Speedometer Drive
• Winter Operation
• Summer or Tropical Operation
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Summary of Contents for HEINKEL TOURIST

• Page 3 G U A R A N T E E Subject to the stipulations set out overleaf, we undertake to guarantee HEINKEL 175 cc. “TOURIST” MOTOR-SCOOTER Chassis No. Engine No. supplied to ER N S T HEI NK EL AKTIEN GESELLSCHAET...
• Page 4 (in block letters or typewritten) and send to the HEINKEL WORKS. The guarantee becomes effective only after this counterfoil is received. Chassis No. »HEINKEL-TOURIST« as licensed on the Engine No . Date) Steering lock key No.
• Page 5 Inspection prior to supply 1. Check electrical installation: The vehicle described overleaf was inspected before a) parking light being handed over to the customer, and the tests b) bright and dipped light incl. speedometer lighting listed down the right-hand side of this page were carried out.

Page 6: Heinkel Service

• Page 8 It is our aim to make sure that your HEINKEL Scooter gives you entire satisfaction. E R N S T H E INK EL A KT IE NG E S E L LS CHAF T...
• Page 9 Scooter will readily give you the personal service which goes with it. Wherever you see the HEINKEL Service Sign, your Tourist Scooter will get careful attention. At these Service Stations, trained and skilled mechanics with special tools take care of your TOURIST and ample spares are always available.

Page 10: Service

• Page 11 When the seat is opened, the engine and chassis numbers are located as shown chassis number dipstick model plate engine number...
• Page 12 Note! The steering lock key can only be replaced if you quote the key number Therefore enter your key number in this booklet. Number of steering lock key (i.e. number indicated on key head) Engine number Chassis number...

Page 13: Technical Data

Page 14: carburettor.

• Page 15 Gear reduction 1st gear 3.51:1 2nd gear 2.07:1 3rd gear 1.38:1 4th gear 1:1 Reduction: Engine–Gearbox 1.882 : 1 Solo Sidecar Reduction: Gearbox–Rear wheel 2.727: 1 3.10 : 1 Total reduction: 1st gear 18.05 : 1 20.50 : 1 2nd gear 10.60 : 1 12.02 : 1 3rd gear...

Page 16: Brakes

• Page 17 Saddle height 735 mm Ground clearance 145 mm (approx) Wheel base 1375 mm Weights Admissible total weight Unladen weight, ready for traveling 330 Ibs. Admissible load, solo 440 Ibs. 770 Ibs. with sidecar 660 Ibs. 990 Ibs. Admissible weight of loaded sidecar 321 Ibs.
• Page 18 Fuel consumption for consumption curve, see P. 58 Fuel consumption to DIN 70030 3 litres per 100 km at 43 m.p.h. standards Maximum speed (with two riders up) 57 m.p.h. Equipment see wiring diagram 12 volt electric light special wide–beam built–in headlamp, 130 mm diameter, with BILUX bulb, 35/35 watts and parking light 2 watts Tail and number–plate lamp...
• Page 19 CONTROLS 1. Ignition switch (incorporated in front shield) a) ignition key engaged in middle position ignition switched on (red lamp in speedometer push in until resistance is felt; lights up) b) push key beyond the resistance you operate the electric starter (only when gear set to neutral) c) push key in until resistance is felt;...
• Page 20 3. Braking light This is operated automatically by the braking light switch fixed on frame covered by front shield, when ignition key has been pushed in and brake pedal depressed. Controls 1. Twist–grip throttle control zu = closed auf = open 2.
• Page 21 flywheel magneto is charging battery. If red light does not go out, this proves that either the flywheel magneto or the regulator is damaged. Have them checked at a HEINKEL Service Station or Bosch Service. 5. Dipper switch on left handlebar Turn downwards for main beam Turn upwards for dipped beam 5.
• Page 22 RUNNING–IN INSTRUCTIONS UP TO 1200 MILES The running–in period is of vital importance to the future life and the reliability of your Scooter. During this time, when all moving parts have to bed down, the throttle should not be opened fully, except for very brief periods.
• Page 23 STARTING PREPARATIONS of at least 82 octane rating (ROZ). Fuel tank capacity 11.3 litres FiII–up with branded petrol 1.8 litres of which is a reserve. Only use a branded oil (see Lubricating Schedule on P. 62), Check engine oil such as Mobiloil Special for the whole year or Mobiloil AF (SAE 40) in summer, Mobiloil A (SAE 30) in winter.
• Page 24 Test tyre pressure: Front wheel Rear wheel Sidecar Solo 18 psi 26 psi with pillion passenger 18 psi 29 psi Solo with occupied sidecar 22 psi 29 psi 22 psi with pillion passenger and occupied sidecar 22 psi 36 psi 29 psi STARTING THE ENGINE Open fuel tap opened, Once the small door on the right–hand side of the body is...
• Page 25 Open and close the twist–grip throttle a few times briefly. When the engine is cold Then press in the ignition key (red light comes on) to operate starter and at the same time open the throttle slightly. Open throttle slightly and press in key to start. When the engine is warm Starting 1.
• Page 26 DRIVING AND OPERATION OF CONTROLS Removing scooter Take hold of handlebars and push machine forward. At the same from stand time place your left foot in front of stand to avoid movement, and roll machine off stand. When the engine has been started (neutral gear), pull the clutch lever and turn the gear control twist–grip to position 1.
• Page 27 Locking of the wheels should be avoided. Use both brakes together if possible. Your TOURIST four–stroke engine, in contrast to a two–stroke engine, will take over a large part of the braking on long descents.
• Page 28 The machine is held on the left side by the handlebars and the Putting on stand stand pressed to the ground with the foot. Whilst holding the scooter by the handlebars, pull it smartly backwards until the catch of the stand is reached. This is done without difficulty and without having to lift the scooter.
• Page 29 SCOOTER MAINTENANCE AND CARE Cleaning The reliability of operation and the service life of the machine depend to a great extent on maintenance and cleaning. Very often, trouble and annoyance can be traced back to lack of proper care. The highly–polished coachwork is best washed with a sponge under running water and afterwards dried with a chamois leather, as is done with any car.
• Page 30 When replacing the rear body cowling, take care to connect the stop light cable to the correct connectors. When fastening the frame–retaining bolts, make quite sure that the cables for the braking Note! and tail lights are not trapped under the frame (danger of short–circuiting).
• Page 31 Engine Maintenance Lubrication is of particular importance with a four–stroke engine and the instructions for oil– changing must therefore be strictly adhered to. Use only proprietary oils such as Mobiloil Special for the whole year round or Mobiloil AF in the summer (SAE 40), and Mobiloil A in the winter (SAE 30).
• Page 32 open the oil filter plug (1) at the top of the cylinder cover and extract the drain plug at the bottom of the engine housing (Figs.3 and 4). When the old oil has drained away, replace the drain plug and fill with just over 1 3/4 pints of proprietary oil such as Mobiloil Special. Turn over the engine for a short time in neutral and then drain the engine oil again.
• Page 33 Checking the engine oil level Pull out and wipe dipstick (Fig. 4), then re–insert it as far as the screw cap. Check the oil level every time you fill up with petrol; it must never fall below the bottom mark on the dipstick. The maximum level is to the top mark on the dipstick.
• Page 34 Wash all parts in petrol, blow through the jets and reassemble. Re–adjust the needle position and the air control screw exactly as it was. Should the carburettor adjustment become changed, do not experiment but call on your HEINKEL Service Agent. Carburettor setting For carburettor adjustment see P.
• Page 35 Description and Component List of the BING–Carburettor Type 1/20/46 A Carburettor housing Pump piston Air regulating screw Sprayer air borehole Valve disc Spring B Cover plate Spring N Carburettor clip Cover screw G Pump jet needle Clip screw Adjusting screw Cramp bow U Float chamber H Main jet...
• Page 36 BING–Carburettor Type 1/20/46 Needle Position...
• Page 37 Description and Component List of the PALLAS–Carburettor Type 20/14 P 1 Float chamber 21 Adjuster screw 2 Slide 22 Stop spring 3 Return spring 23 Pump jet cover 4 Mixing chamber cover 24 Gasket 5 Adjuster screw 25 Float chamber cover 6 Lock nut 27 Float 8 Pump jet needle...
• Page 38 PALLAS–Carburettor Type 20/14 P...
• Page 39 If, with a cold engine, the throttle is operated several times,the pump injects into the mixing chamber amply sufficient petrol for starting. The cylinder of the accelerator pump is the lower enlarged extremity of the pump needle jet, into which the pump piston with valve disc and the pump valve screw are inserted. The pump spring presses the piston against the bottom end of the jet needle.
• Page 40 The inflow of fuel during fast running is determined by the main jet (16); with the engine running not so fast (about 3500 r.p.m.), the inflow of fuel is determined by the pump–needle jet (10) and jet needle (8). The idling jet (17) fixed on the carburettor housing by the idling jet return screw (18) provides for correct quantity of fuel necessary for idling.
• Page 41 Micronic air filter The micronic air filter needs no servicing. It keeps any dust out of the engine. The life of the paper filter insert therefore depends on the amount of dirt handled. In town and on tarred roads, it should last some 5000 miles.
• Page 42 Clutch Power is transmitted to the gearbox by means of a multi–plate clutch. Special care must be taken that the clutch lever on the handlebar has 1/16”–1/8” play. If there is too much play, the clutch does not disengage freely; too little play causes the clutch to slip and results in rapid wear. The adjuster screw for the clutch control cable is placed on the left hand engine housing cover.
• Page 43 Gear change control The gear is changed by twist–grip control on the handlebars. Gear change from handlebar to gear shift lever is by two Bowden cables. Locking of the gears in the twist–grip can be suited to the touch of the driver by adjustment of the screw (between the figures). For readjustment of the gear–shift, adjuster screws are provided on the clutch cover (see Fig.9).
• Page 44 The Brakes The front brake is adjusted by the Bowden cable adjuster screw on, the hub brake disc at the right–hand side. If the adjustment of the screw has reached its limits, the adjuster screw is screwed in completely, and the brake actuating lever is advanced by removing nut 3, prising actuating lever from the cam spindle and replacing one notch clockwise.
• Page 45 Only adjust the brakes as far as is necessary for the wheels to turn slightly, without grinding; however, have no more clearance than is necessary. Brake shoes on which the linings are worn out, should be exchanged at your HEINKEL Agent’s. µ...

Page 46: Electrical Equipment

• Page 47 This includes: a) Checking the contact breaker points the gap should be .014–.018 ins. (every 1500 to 2000 miles); b) Greasing of the lubrication felt at the contact breaker (use grease, not oil). c) Removal of carbon deposits and checking of brushes. require no further maintenance, but it is advisable to check the cable Coil and Regulator connections from time to time (to gain access to these, raise the cowling).
• Page 48 Plug Check the electrode gap every 1200–2000 miles. It should be .020–.024 ins. The sparking plug is accessible from the lug gage boot. Push the little metal flop aside and remove the plug, using the box spanner. When screwing in the spark plug, do so by hand, using the spanner only for final tightening, so as not to damage the thread.
• Page 49 up with distilled water. The acid level should be kept a little above the top edge of the plates. Only accumulator acid (1.28) should be used. For charging instructions, see battery cover. Do not let petrol or parrafin touch the battery. Should the scooter be laid up for some time (4 weeks or more), the batteries should be taken out and taken care of separately.

Page 50: Wheel Changing

• Page 51 that the speedometer cable and gearbox are correctly located. The speedometer mechanism has 2 pins which ensure correct fitting of the drive to the counter ring. The notch in the brake anchor or, at the first sharp braking, the plate must be located correctly in the right–hand front fork, wheel will jam and the driver will fall.
• Page 52 Checking the tyre Pressure The life of your tyres depends to a great extent on correct pressure and careful treatment. Inflate tyres as specified on Page 19. Changing the Tyres Since, in our experience, more strain is put on the rear tyre than on the front tyre, it is advisable, in the interests of even tyre wear, to change over the front and rear wheels every 1850–2500 miles.
• Page 53 Removing the tyres Make it a principle never to use force when removing or fitting tyres! Unscrew the valve caps and screw out valve insert with reversed cap, let the air out and unscrew rim nuts from the valve. Lay the wheel flat on the ground and, by treading on it, loosen the tyre bead all round.
• Page 54 the rim. Then take out the inner tube, stand the wheel up and, using the tyre levers, force the second tyre bead (see Fig. 17) over the edge of the rim and pull the tyre sideways and off the rim. Fitting the tyres Place the slightly pumped–up inner tube in the cover so that there are no creases and with the inner tube valve, inserted at the side, facing upwards.
• Page 55 the rim), lifting the last portion of the lower bead over the rim with the tyre lever. In contrast to the lower bead, the upper bead is pushed into the drop–base rim first on the side opposite the valve. By kneeling on it, the cover can be compressed and alternately to the right and left a further section of the bead lifted over the Cross–section through tyre and rim Tyre fitted...

Page 56: Front Fork

Page 57: bowden cables, page 58: exhaust, page 59: winter operation.

• Page 60 STORING OF SCOOTER If the vehicle is not going to be used for a fairly prolonged period (wintering, or for any other reason), you should: 1. Clean the whole scooter thoroughly. 2. Change the oil with anti–corrosion oil, such as Mobil–Kote 503, just before storing the machine (approx.

Page 61: Storage

Page 62: loading schedule.

• Page 63 FUEL CONSUMPTION DIAGRAM Average Consumption Speed in km/hr.
• Page 64 ADJUSTING THE HEADLAMP At regular intervals, the setting of your scooter’s headlamp should be checked and, if need be, adjusted. This will give you proper lighting of the roadway, increases your riding safety and avoids endangering yourself and other road–users.
• Page 65 Preparations tor the test Mark a cross on a light wall, at the height of the beam centre. When the driver is mounted, this height is 25 ins. Set the vehicle on its wheels a little more than 16 feet from the wall (measured from the wall to the centre of the front wheel).
• Page 66 SERVICE CHART FOR 175 cc. HEINKEL TOURIST SCOOTER and every SERVICE TO BE PERFORMED miles 1. Trial run to worm up engine 1200 2. Change engine oil every 700 miles 3. Change oil in swing arm check check check check 2500 4.
• Page 67 Service at miles Lubricating Type of lubricant to be used Service point summer winter Special Engine Complete change X X X X X X X 1250 Mobil-Oil when engine warm gearbox 2500 Complete change Swing arm Mobil-Oil Front fork Drain and refill 6250 Mobil-Oil Dismantle and...

Page 68: Breakdowns

• Page 69 II. Starter turns engine, but engine does not start 1. Spark plug fouled, defective clean or replace plug, correct gap to or gap too wide .020–.024 ins. 2. Contact breaker points dirty or clean contact breaker points, reset or replace, worn, contact breaker rocker clean contact breaker rocker arm pivot arm sticking...
• Page 70 IV. Engine cuts out and stops suddenly 1. No fuel or insufficient reaching engine fuel proceed as under I, 1–4 2. Sparking plug defective replace sparking plug 3. Ignition cables loose fasten and tighten cable connections 4. Contact breaker rocker arm sticking clean contact breaker rocker arm fulcrum pin V.
• Page 71 3. Engine needs oil check oil level in engine and fill up if necessary 4. Carburettor mixture too lean tighten carburettor clamp bolt and test for original setting 5. Brakes bind and get hot re-adjust brakes VII. Lights not working 1.

Page 72: Table Of Contents

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1966 Heinkel Tourist

In Germany , Scooter by Abhi March 11, 2016 Leave a Comment

Heinkel started as a German aircraft manufacturer that found themselves without a product after the Allies banned them from making planes after World War II. They moved on to bicycles, a microcar, and scooters like the Tourist to help Germans who couldn’t afford a car but needed personal transportation.

When offered in markets outside of Germany, the Heinkel was marketed as an upscale scooter (pricier than a Vespa or Lambretta) that was well quipped – clock, luggage rack, spare wheel, steering lock, etc. In England it was called the Rolls-Royce of scooters, and a dealer in Massachusetts called it the Cadillac of scooters. Production ran from 1953 to December 31st, 1965 – this “1966” example must have been one of the last scoots off the line. It is from the last series, called the 103 A2 – this had a 174cc four-stroke single cylinder engine and it weighed 326 pounds. For more information, check out HeinkelTourist.com !

This example is lacking in photos but it’s being offered by the third owner, who says it’s in excellent condition with 7,500 miles. The sale will include the original owner’s manual and tool kit. Find this Tourist here on Craigslist $4,500 in Ephrata, Pennsylvania.

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Cohort Sighting: Heinkel Tourist Scooter with Sidecar – The Mercedes of Scooters

The British called this “The Rolls Royce of Scooters,” but it seems to me that “The Mercedes of Scooters” seems more apt, especially since Cohort Hannes captured it in front of a very lovely Pagoda SL.  A dealer in Massachusetts even advertised the Heinkel as “The Cadillac of Scooters,” its accolades reflecting its high-quality construction, durable four-stroke engine (when two-strokes were the norm), and lofty price tag.  And the name “Tourist” was not over-reaching either; back in the fifties, Germans with more Wunderlust than D-Marks were driving them south for vacations in Italy, Spain, and such (but with their wives, not the family dog).

Heinkel Flugzeugwerke was of course banned from building aircraft after the end of WWII, so it turned its engineers to more earth-bound vehicles: bicycles, mopeds, scooters and the Heinkel bubble car. All of them were built to much higher standards than average, which also affected their price and sales.

The Tourist was capable of touring, with a top speed of 60-70 mph, although presumably not with the side car. Except for the very first batch, Tourists had a 174cc ohv single cylinder engine, with some 9.5 hp. Getting over the steep Alpine passes back then took patience.

But that paid off, as this happy couple in Spain demonstrated with their Maico sidecar rig. Now that’s the way to really see the countryside, puttering along with the balmy ocean breeze in one’s hair.

And here’s a couple of German women touring on their scooter. Who needs men, anyway? Or maybe they lost them in the war. Nothing can stop the German Wanderlust , except maybe a war. Which meant it was very pent up by the early fifties.

These two aren’t likely to head south, but at least they’re out enjoying the ride on their Heinkel.

15 Comments

If that first photograph of a Heinkel, a very tiny sidecar, and its passenger does not bring a smile to someone’s face, that person has something very wrong with them!

I have to wonder how common an accessory the dog-sized sidecar was. Somewhere out there is a Kali sidecar enthusiast who knows the answer.

That’s the regular-person sized side-car. It’s a scooter, not a BMW 🙂 Check out the couple in Spain in the scooter; the sidecar is similarly small. Just big enough to slide the legs into. And folks were generally slim back then.

I thought that the dog’s sidecar looked smaller than the one used by the couple in Spain, but you are right, the one in Spain just has some sort of windshield/tonneau cover that makes it taller. The dog’s sidecar would make an excellent one-man bobsled!

The Heinkel bubble car in the second photo looks quite similar to an Isetta, although I think that the Isetta used the BMW boxer twin engine, which would have given it a substantial engine displacement advantage. A BMW Isetta vs. Heinkel vs. Messerschmitt comparison test would be a fun one; I wonder whether anyone has ever done one?

The BMW Isetta used a one-cylinder engine, a variation of their single cylinder motorcycle engine, with fan cooling. The earliest version (up to 1956) had 250 cc and 12 hp, and a top speed of 53 mph. The later ones had 300cc and 13 hp; top speed stayed the same, but it got to that speed faster.

The Heinkel Kabine used the same engine as the Tourist scooter; initially the 174cc (9.2 hp), and later ones 200cc and about 10 hp. The given top speed for it was 54/56 mph, but probably the Isetta had a better chance of actually attaining it than the Kabine.

The Messerschmitt first had a 175 cc (10 hp) and also listed as 56 mph top speed. The later KR200 supposedly would hit 65mph.

So they all had very similar power levels, but the substantially smaller aerodynamic frontal aspect of the Messerschmitt undoubtedly allowed it to go faster than the two “eggs”. Just like in an airplane.

Single cylinder air cooled bubble cars by former makers of the mainstays of the Luftwaffe … I never knew that the category had so many members!

As a fan of old-fashioned air-cooled motorcycles, I would love to see a comparison of these three bubble cars, plus the BMW 700 and a prewar Morgan three wheeler.

The whole motivation for the Mini was the head (name forgotten while writing) of BMC’s strong dislike for bubble cars. He insisted that Issigonis had to come up with a real car if BMC was to get into the market.

Love eeet !

On closer examination, I also have to ask where and when the color photos were taken. With a Heinkel scooter, a Pagoda SL, a late 60s/early 70s Corvette, and a Porsche 911 Turbo all on the same street, on a cobblestone street in front of an old cathedral, something interesting was happening.

I took these in 2012 in Regensburg, Germany, during the annual classic car rallye. Here are some more photos from that day: http://www.flickr.com/photos/robotriot/sets/72157630713441064/ I’ve got a couple more I need to upload, but I didn’t have as much time that day as I wished I had. The snapshots of the Heinkel were taken when I was on my way home again.

New information for me. Very interesting scooter. I love the color on that thing – how very late 40s-early 50s.

Great picture and a sweet set of wheels! The bullet-shaped sidecar is excellent, especially with a pooch in it. I actually never knew Heinkel made scooters, I only knew (vaguely) of their bubble car and the airplanes… although looking at these pictures, I think I may have actually seen one or two of them on the street. Manhattan is full of scooters and mopeds, but when it comes to the older ones, if it isn’t some type of Vespa/Piaggio, Lambretta or Puch, I don’t really know what it is. I’ll have to keep my eyes peeled now.

The Maico is even cooler looking, that’s really wild!!

Until I read the article, I thought Electrolux made sidecars. 😉

Used to ride 750s. Think this might be more my speed now.

That is a very cool scooter-and-sidecar setup! Since no one else mentioned it, the dog appears to be a Viszla, a European hunting dog. My Uncle Don had them for years; really nice dogs!

for further on this topic I recommend searching for Wim Dussel. He and a companion rode around the world in the mid 1950’s. Dussel rode a Maico with sidecar. I believe his friend had a Japanese scooter. Dussel was Dutch war photographer who later made some significant road trips on his Maico and small cars such as the Goggomobile and DAF.

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Heinkel Tourist 103 A1

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The Unique Burial of a Child of Early Scythian Time at the Cemetery of Saryg-Bulun (Tuva)

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Pages:  379-406

In 1988, the Tuvan Archaeological Expedition (led by M. E. Kilunovskaya and V. A. Semenov) discovered a unique burial of the early Iron Age at Saryg-Bulun in Central Tuva. There are two burial mounds of the Aldy-Bel culture dated by 7th century BC. Within the barrows, which adjoined one another, forming a figure-of-eight, there were discovered 7 burials, from which a representative collection of artifacts was recovered. Burial 5 was the most unique, it was found in a coffin made of a larch trunk, with a tightly closed lid. Due to the preservative properties of larch and lack of air access, the coffin contained a well-preserved mummy of a child with an accompanying set of grave goods. The interred individual retained the skin on his face and had a leather headdress painted with red pigment and a coat, sewn from jerboa fur. The coat was belted with a leather belt with bronze ornaments and buckles. Besides that, a leather quiver with arrows with the shafts decorated with painted ornaments, fully preserved battle pick and a bow were buried in the coffin. Unexpectedly, the full-genomic analysis, showed that the individual was female. This fact opens a new aspect in the study of the social history of the Scythian society and perhaps brings us back to the myth of the Amazons, discussed by Herodotus. Of course, this discovery is unique in its preservation for the Scythian culture of Tuva and requires careful study and conservation.

Keywords: Tuva, Early Iron Age, early Scythian period, Aldy-Bel culture, barrow, burial in the coffin, mummy, full genome sequencing, aDNA

Information about authors: Marina Kilunovskaya (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Candidate of Historical Sciences. Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail: [email protected] Vladimir Semenov (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Candidate of Historical Sciences. Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail: [email protected] Varvara Busova  (Moscow, Russian Federation).  (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences.  Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Kharis Mustafin  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Candidate of Technical Sciences. Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Irina Alborova  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Candidate of Biological Sciences. Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Alina Matzvai  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected]

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Electrical Topics

The Heinkel engineers created a solid machine with an even better electrical system. The electrical system follows the DIN 72552 standard. Now you know what all of those numbers mean!

Heinkel Tourists implement a battery assisted spark design. The Tourist will not work without a battery. Additionally, most Tourists have an electric starter, so strong batteries are a must.

Before you do any work on the electrical system, ALWAYS disconnect the batteries! Failure to do so can result in blown fuses or bulbs (inexpensive) or shorted coils (expensive).

• Batteries. The battery is a critical element to the Tourist. Original documentation states use of two 6-volt batteries wired in series. The batteries are the 6N11A-1B variety found at most scooter shops. Alternatively, you can use a single 12-volt 11-amp (or 12) battery that has the same dimensions (2.5" x 5" x 5") as one of the 6-volt batteries. I have had great luck with a single Interstate YB5L-B battery, but I think the pair of 6-volt batteries work best. Make sure that your batteries are connected with heavy guage wire.
• Ignition Switch. There isn't much that can go wrong with the ignition switch UNLESS you connect it incorrectly OR you use something other than a real Heinkel key to start it. I will say that I thought my ignition switch was deteriorating until I discovered that the key was becoming too thin. When it was in the lights on position, the scooter would start sputtering until I lightly pushed the key back in place. The fix? A new key.
• Dynastart. TBD.
• External Coil. Remove your key from the ignition switch when the scooter is not running! If you disregard this warning, please be aware that your coil will boil and ultimately explode. It sounds funny until you have to cleanup the oily/tar residue from everywhere. If you replace the coil, be sure to connect it as follows: Post #1 is negative, it connects to the condenser and to the points. Post #15 is positive and it connects to post #15 of the ignition switch.
• Points. The points gap is 0.35mm - 0.45mm. The timing is 8 - 10 degrees before top dead center. With a Heinkel, you can adjust the points while the motor is running!
• Fuses. Most Tourists have a fuse box located in the back side of the legshield. The fuse box contains four 8 amp fuses. Even though blowing a fuse is a rare event, I carry a few spares with me. If you are trouble shooting an electrical issue, always make sure your fuses are good. Also you might try rotating the fuse a little to "freshen up" the metal on the ends. Over time, the metal can oxidize and the connection may fail.
• Ground. Like most vehicles, the Tourist frame is the ground in the circuit - negative ground that is. After restoring my A1, I started having issues with my tail light flickering. The powder coating on my frame and/or the body paint prevented a good ground. I added a ground wire to my harness. Problem solved.

Documentation

• A0 Cable Layout
• A1 Owner's Manual
• A1 Workshop Manual
• A2 Owner's Manual
• A2 Workshop Manual
• A1 and A2 Cable Layout
• Bing SLH Tuning Guide
• Bearing Chart
• Oil Seal Chart
• General Electrical Topics
• 2A1 Wiring Diagram
• A0 Wiring Diagram
• A1 Wiring Diagram
• A2 Wiring Diagram

Specific Repairs

• Vapor Lock Cure
• Dynastart Brush Replacement
• Fixing Leaks
• Front Shock Replacement
• Mushroom Seal Replacement
• Polishing Gear Spindles
• Rear Axle Bearing Replacement
• Replace Wear Items
• Replace Shifter Cable

Repair Journals

• Goldberg's Repair Journal
• Goldberg's Second A2 Repair Journal
• Tegan Mackay's Repair Journal
• EuGene Smith's 103 A2 Restoration
• McWilliams' A1 Facelift

Updated: September 29, 2022