aluminum road bike frame trek

Best aluminium road bikes: Lower-priced performance bikes

Here's our pick of the best aluminium road bikes available this year - a bike doesn't need to be carbon to go fast

How to choose an aluminium road bike

The best aluminium road bikes can offer the performance of a carbon bike, but usually at a lower price. Many have frame weights that are similar to or lower than comparably priced carbon fibre bike frames as well, making them some of the best road bikes for their price.

It's been over 25 years since aluminium supplanted steel as the material of choice for performance bikes. Although it was quickly superseded by carbon fibre for the highest spec bikes, brands have continued to develop aluminium bike frames, with the result that the best aluminium road bikes available today are lightweight, comfortable and even include aero features. 

Aluminium frames are cheaper to produce than carbon ones as well, so the majority of the best budget road bikes are also made of the metal. Given that the framesets tend to be cheaper, it's often easier to balance the cost of a bike overall. 

Here's our pick of the best aluminium road bikes for performance that are available and below that is a buyer's guide for how to choose the best aluminium road bike for your needs.

The Allez Sprint isn't like other Allez models and is much more like an alloy Tarmac. As such it's a great option for racing, with aggressive geometry and tough enough to handle crits.

Read more below

Another alloy bike that borrows features from its carbon sibling, in this case the SuperSix Evo, the CAAD13 has aero tube profiles, but is still comfortable to ride.

Trek launched an updated Emonda in 2023, with integrated cabling and aero tube profiles, making it even more like the carbon bike, along with new, brighter colours. 

Best aluminium road bikes you can buy today

You can trust Cyclingnews Our experts spend countless hours testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

1. Specialized Allez Sprint Comp

Specifications, reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

While the previous iteration of the Allez Sprint modelled itself on the now-extinct Specialized Venge, focussing on fast and hard crit racing, the current model has mellowed and matured into a more all-around bicycle. 

The geometry is based on the Tarmac SL7 (it's identical), rather than the Venge, so the handling is sublime but never twitchy. The new integrated downtube and bottom bracket make for an exceptionally efficient pedalling platform, and the Shimano 105 groupset is spot-on for the money.

With a few componentry swaps the frameset provides a tempting platform for making the bike your own. Why not try some bigger tyres for endurance rides, or aero wheels for race day?

Interested? Our Specialized Allez Sprint Comp first ride review can give you more info.

2. Cannondale CAAD13 Ultegra

Cannondale's CAAD frames have long been considered the gold standard in aluminium race bikes, and the latest iteration the CAAD13 builds on that legacy. 

The geometry matches the SuperSix Evo, and the CAAD13 retains the light steering and crisp response to pedal input. Dropped chainstays and a D-shaped seatpost greatly improve comfort, and Cannondale has used hydroforming to incorporate truncated aerofoils to help the frame slice through the wind. 

The American outfit is now only offering the CAAD13 in disc builds, either with Shimano 105, or Ultegra, but there is a women's spec bike.

Check out our first look at the Cannondale CAAD13 Ultegra for more details.

3. Trek Emonda ALR 5

When you think Emonda, the first thing that comes to mind is the feathery light carbon frame that even gets lightweight paint in the name of shaving grams. While the ALR version is pudgier than its carbon companion, the bike is no slouch when it comes to performance. 

Trek's latest update of the Emonda ALR sees the bike get hidden cabling and aero tube profiles, making it even more like the WorldTour-level carbon version of the bike. 

The Emonda ALR is one of those bikes that show alloy bikes don't have to be uncomfortable, and for the price, the performance is hard to beat. The new model gets Trek's racier H1.5 geometry as seen on the pros' Gen 7 Trek Madone aero bike. 

4. Giant Contend SL 1

Giant has scaled back its alloy offerings, yet the Contend is one of the few survivors. Categorised as an 'all-rounder' the Contend occupies the entry-level of Giant's drop bar range. 

With an upright geometry, Giant has used some of its manufacturing wizardry, and the D-Fuse seatpost to produce a surprisingly compliant frame. It's not a race bike, but the compact rear end gives it a snappy engaging feel, while the handling is manageable, even for inexperienced riders; the Contend could serve as both a commuter and weekend rider for those who need multi-purpose affordability.

5. Canyon Endurace AL

By selling direct to the consumer, Canyon can offer prices that other brands struggle to match, without sacrificing an ounce of quality. With a full Shimano 105 drivetrain and hydraulic brakes (if you opt for discs) on the top-spec build, the Endurace rolls on DT Swiss E1850 wheels, with Canyon providing the rest of the finishing kit.

The Endurace features steep head and seat angles, however, the stack and reach plant the rider in a neutral riding position; making for a roadie that's agile and responsive, but won't leave your lower back and neck requiring attention from a physio. 

The disc version has ample room for fat tyres, and the lack of a brake bridge also allows the chainstays to flex more freely. Both versions are noticeably devoid of fender mounts, so it might not slot in well if you live in a wet climate.

6. Mason Definition 2

Niche UK brand Mason has been making waves for a few years now, offering high-quality frames with all-round geometries that don't break the bank. 

For the second generation of the Definition, Mason updated the frame to take 12mm thru-axles and flat-mount disc brake calipers. This involved a complete redesign of the rear end for a new dropout that didn't add weight or change the ride quality. The frame itself is made from quality Dedacciai alloy tubing and is finished with the brand's Aperture 2 carbon fork. 

Available in a range of 1x and 2x drivetrains, each Definition comes with Hunt 4Season V2 Disc wheels, a Deda cockpit and a Fabric saddle, although you can customise the build to your heart's content.

7. Rose Pro SL Disc

Another consumer-direct brand, Rose, offers serious value for money with the Pro SL Disc. The frame itself is made from 7005 T6 alloy and features triple-butted, hydroformed tubing throughout. The brake-bridge-free lowered seat stays afford the tubing oodles of vertical flex, while the carbon fork at the front does well to eat up vibration coming through the bars. 

Labelled as a marathon bike, the Rose Pro SL disc offers steep angles and a relatively compact rear end for precise steering, while a few mm of stack is added in the front to relieve the pressure on your lower back and neck. 

For the money, you get a full Shimano Ultegra drivetrain, DT Swiss P1800 Spline wheels and a Ritchey finishing kit. Rose stopped importing to the UK after Brexit though.

The considerations when choosing the best aluminium road bike for your needs are similar to those for a road bike made of any other material, so take a look at our buyer's guide to the best road bikes for more, if you're not sure what type of bike you need. 

Here, though, are a few considerations that are specific to aluminium road bikes.

Are aluminum bikes as good as carbon?

Whilst an aluminium frame may not offer quite the same ride as a top end or premium carbon fibre frame. The best aluminium road bikes will offer lower end carbon machines a run for their money. Most will be engaging, stiff and fun bikes to ride. The CN tech team have owned a few aluminum road bikes between us and not by chance.

What sort of bike to I need?

Alloy road bikes are a microcosm of bikes in general, as every genre of bike has at least one model made of aluminium. As such the same decisions that you'd make when choosing one of the best carbon road bikes , or best steel road bikes , apply here.

If you're planning on racing then go for something race-focused; longer, lower, and with steeper angles. For longer days in the saddle then you might be better off with an endurance-focused option, where a more upright position and more relaxed handling combined with wider tyres will allow you to pedal on for hours and hours in comfort.

If you're unsure then there are plenty of options which don't categorise themselves as one or the other, and fill a more 'general purpose' niche. Think of these as a choose-your-own-adventure option.

Are all carbon forks the same?

Most alloy road bikes will come with a carbon fork. Fork blades flex more than the frame, and the fatigue life of aluminium isn't sufficient to allow safe alloy forks without them being utterly unforgiving. 

Carbon forks allow flex, and also save a few grams in the process. Higher spec models will also have a carbon steerer, while lower tier models will have a metal one. The only real difference here is weight, as the steerer itself provides no additional flex.

Should I get disc brakes or rim brakes?

The industry is moving towards discs being the standard with an inevitability that makes rim brakes harder to recommend from a future-proofing standpoint. 

Disc brakes provide better stopping power and modulation, especially in the wet. However, it's not totally black and white. Rim brakes are significantly easier to maintain yourself, and likely cheaper too. They've worked perfectly well for decades, so if you are a budding home mechanic then perhaps they're the right choice for you. 

Rim brakes will however limit the width of the tyre you can use, so for endurance bikes, you're unlikely to have a decent rim brake offering nowadays.

Thru-axles or quick release?

For disc brake equipped bikes a thru-axle will always be the superior choice as it positions the wheel, and therefore the disc rotor, in precisely the same place each time, reducing the risk of developing brake rub.

For rim brake aficionados the choice is less imperative. Thru-axles will be stiffer, and more future-proof, but the tolerances built into a rim brake system aren't so fine and so quick release is perfectly adequate if budget is a concern. The majority of rim brake bikes still use the quick release system.

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Will joined the Cyclingnews team as a reviews writer in 2022, having previously written for Cyclist, BikeRadar and Advntr. There are very few types of cycling he's not dabbled in, and he has a particular affection for older bikes and long lasting components. Road riding was his first love, before graduating to racing CX in Yorkshire. He's been touring on a vintage tandem all the way through to fixed gear gravel riding and MTB too. When he's not out riding one of his many bikes he can usually be found in the garage tinkering with another of them, or getting obsessive about tyres. Also, as he doesn't use Zwift, he's our go-to guy for bad weather testing... bless him.

Rides: Custom Zetland Audax, Bowman Palace:R, Peugeot Grand Tourisme Tandem, Falcon Explorer Tracklocross, Fairlight Secan & Strael

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• Bike of the Year 2024

The best aluminium road bikes 2024: top-rated alloy bikes 

Our favourite alloy road bikes, as rated by BikeRadar's expert testers

Robyn Furtado / BikeRadar

Stan Portus

The best aluminium road bikes can rival bikes with carbon frames; aluminium remains a great material for making bicycle frames.

At the entry-level end of the road bike market, aluminium frames are almost ubiquitous. That's because, generally speaking, aluminium frames combine a desirable stiffness level with low overall weight and relatively cheap production costs.

Bikes such as the Triban RC120 and Vitus Razor Claris prove that a quality road bike can still be had for less than £500 . Bikes such as the Triban RC520 show that road bikes under £1,000 can compete with pricier machines, too, with great specs and features such as disc brakes , which are available on more and more budget bikes.

Spend a little more and the prevalence of aluminium thins out in favour of cheaper carbon fibre bikes.

However, aluminium bikes at this price point – roughly between £1,000 and £2,500 – still regularly offer considerably better value , and sometimes a better ride, than similarly priced carbon models.

Fans of the pro peloton may have seen alloy come and go as the material of choice for the world’s fastest racers, but that doesn't mean alloy frames have plateaued in terms of development.

Spend well into four figures and you'll get access to the likes of Cannondale's CAAD13 – a showcase for the latest aluminium tech and a bike that can fight it out with all but the absolute best carbon fibre machines.

That's enough of the background, now let's crack on with our pick of the best aluminium road bikes, from budget bargains to alloy superbikes.

Every bike here has been tested and reviewed by our team and, in order to be included in this list, a bike must have scored at least 4 out of 5 stars in our testing.

Best aluminium road bikes in 2024, as rated by our expert testers

Triban rc120.

• £399.99/$499/€450/AU$599 as tested
• Our favourite entry-level road bike
• Capable as a fast commuter

The Triban RC120 is the cheapest bike in this list and yet it is one that is fully deserving of its five-star rating.

The RC120 should be the go-to bike for roadies with a modest budget thanks to its superbly considered kit and impressive ride.

Whether you're looking for a companion on long days out or an urban commuter that can accept a rack and mudguards , the RC120 will do it without difficulty.

• Read our full Triban RC120 review

Cannondale CAAD13 Disc 105

• £2,250/$2,300/€2,299/AU$3,499 as tested
• Exciting ride quality

The Cannondale CAAD13 was released in 2019, with the brand revamping the previous CAAD12 to embody new trends, such as dropped seatstays, wider tyres and aerodynamics.

The bike comes equipped with a full Shimano 105 groupset (apart from Cannondale's own cranks), Cannondale finishing kit and wheels.

For the price, it isn't the best value, nor is it the lightest, but once you start riding it, all of that is swept away. It has accurate handling, a remarkably smooth ride and is a brilliant all-round performer. In fact, it gives many carbon bikes a run for their money.

• Read our full Cannondale CAAD13 Disc 105 review

Canyon Endurace AL Disc

• £1,649 as tested for Canyon Endurace AL 8.0 (closest model now Endurace 7, priced at £1,649)
• Great specification
• Powerful, all-weather braking

If you’re after an endurance road bike , the chances are you will already be aware of Canyon’s superb Endurace range, and this particular alloy model with disc brakes hits a real sweet spot in terms of value.

The complete Shimano disc groupset, tubeless-ready wheels and sorted own-brand finishing kit make for an enviable spec sheet, but it’s the composed comfort and ride characteristics that make this one of the best aluminium road bikes.

The 8.0 model with Ultegra we tested has been discontinued, but the £1,649 AL 7.0 model with 105 is very nearly as good – although it sees no cost-saving due to price rises.

• Read our full Canyon Endurace AL 8.0 Disc review

Canyon Endurace AL 7.0

• £999/€1,100/AU$1,750 as tested
• Class-leading spec sheet
• Efficient yet comfortable frame

The second Endurace in this list is once again here thanks to its outstanding value and ride quality. It’s light at 8.4kg for a size medium and has the most impressive spec sheet in its class, although recent price increases mean it's not quite the bargain it used to be.

Component highlights include Shimano’s superb R7000 105 groupset and Fulcrum wheels (a change from last year's Mavics) with quality Continental tyres.

We had to dig pretty deep in order to criticise this rim-brake model, but not everyone will appreciate its understated looks.

• Read our full Canyon Endurace AL 7.0 review

Giant Contend 1

• £999/€1,150 as tested
• Great quality frameset that's comfortable and handles well
• Comfy 28mm tubeless-ready tyres

The Giant Contend impressed us a lot during testing and we rated its rewarding ride and slick components package. The aluminium frame is neatly welded and there's an all-carbon fork and Giant's D-shaped seatpost, which is claimed to reduce road vibration transmitted to the saddle.

The Contend 1 is fitted out with Shimano Sora 9-speed groupset, with ratios down to 1:1. Tektro rim brakes. Tubeless-ready Giant wheels and 28mm tyres are other spec highlights.

The front and rear mudguard fittings and rack compatibility make this ideal as a commuter bike too.

We've also reviewed the 2020 Giant Contend SL1 , with a lighter SL version of the Contend frameset.

• Read our full Giant Contend 1 review

Rose Pro SL Disc 105

• €1,749 (not currently available in UK)
• Updated version of one of our favourite all-rounders
• Lovely frameset and great spec for the money

Rose's affordable alloy all-rounder received an update in 2020, with a move to integrated cabling and tweaks to the frame and fork that include a very tidy new seat clamp.

Although prices have crept up slightly, it remains a top choice, with a really solid Shimano 105 spec and a thoroughly likeable ride quality.

Unfortunately, Rose has withdrawn from the UK market for the moment , but the bike is available elsewhere in the world.

• Read our full Rose Pro SL Disc 105 review

Triban RC120 Disc

• £400/€500 as tested
• Great for longer rides
• A little on the hefty side

Just five years ago, it would have been difficult to fathom that a bicycle as well equipped as this Triban RC120 Disc would be available for such a modest outlay. The geometry of the alloy frame sides towards endurance, making this a great choice for longer rides.

Spec highlights include a carbon fork, tubeless-ready wheels with 28mm tyres, and mechanical disc brakes – it really is superb value for money.

Don’t worry about the Microshift gears either, we were pleasantly surprised by them. The compromise comes in the form of weight, with a size medium example weighing a portly 11.3kg.

• Read our full Triban RC120 Disc review

Triban RC520 Disc

• Exceptionally well equipped
• For those who favour comfort over speed

The RC520 Disc astonishes in terms of value with its carbon fork, mostly Shimano 105 drivetrain and TRP's mechanically actuated hydraulic disc brakes.

The geometry is noticeably more relaxed than the likes of Specialized's Allez, meaning this is no racer, but it's an excellent choice for commuting, training or even as a touring bike .

The standard-fit 28mm rubber already makes for a plush ride, though there's room for up to 36mm tyres and the stock rims are also tubeless-ready should you want to open up gravel capabilities .

• Read our full Triban RC520 review

Carbon vs aluminium

There’s a temptation when reviewing premium alloy bikes to suggest they’re particularly good ‘for a metal bike’, the subtext being that we all know carbon is inherently better.

Carbon makes sense for high-performance bikes because it’s infinitely tunable. It lets designers target stiffness, strength and flexibility exactly where they want it by using different types and arrangements of fibres and clever layup methods.

Metal, by contrast, can be manipulated to a high degree, with elaborate butting, forming and heat-treatment techniques, but you can’t fundamentally alter the mechanical properties of the material with such ease, because it’s not a composite.

The latest premium aluminium bikes challenge conventionally held assumptions about working with metal, offering performance and specs that go head-to-head with similarly priced carbon.

While politics and the pandemic have conspired to ensure nothing feels as good value as it did a couple of years ago , the variety and sophistication of aluminium road bikes have never been better.

Boardman SLR 8.6

• £550 as tested
• Tubeless-ready wheels
• Plenty of comfort

We recognise Boardman’s SLR 8.6 as one of the best budget road bikes out there due to its lovely all-round ride and general practicality.

A notable spec highlight and something that’s still rare at this price point is the tubeless-ready wheelset. The gearing is taller than some of its competitors though, so you may find yourself out of the saddle sooner on the climbs.

The frame is easily good enough to justify significant component upgrades, making this a bike that can really develop with you. It's received some subtle updates and a new paintjob this year, as well as a slight drop in price.

• Read our full Boardman SLR 8.6 review

Cannondale CAAD Optimo 1

• £1,300/$1,305/€1,499 as tested
• Reasonable weight
• Well balanced

Despite originating from Cannondale's entry-level road bike range, the Optimo 1 is worthy of the CAAD designation, associated more closely with the brand's more illustrious models.

The classy alloy frameset is the highlight of the build, made up of mostly Shimano 105 components.

The Vittoria Zaffiro tyres feel fast-rolling and there are fittings for mudguards and a rear rack. Its rim braking works well, but restricts you to 25mm tyres.

• Read our full Cannondale CAAD Optimo 1 review

Cube Axial WS Race

• £1,749/€1,649 as tested
• Quality Shimano 105 spec with hydraulic brakes
• Lots of low gear range for hillier terrain

The Cube Axial is the women's version of the gender-neutral Attain, with Cube branding its Axial frame HPA, for High Performance Alloy.

The frame includes thru-axles for more precise wheel placement than quick releases. There are mudguard mounts and Cube sells mudguards designed specifically for the bike.

The spec includes a full Shimano 105 11-speed groupset, complete with its powerful hydraulic disc brakes, but the Axial range starts at around £1,000 for the lowest spec, fitted with Shimano Claris 8-speed.

The 28mm tyres measure up around 30mm although the Axial's tyre clearance isn't as generous as on some frames.

Despite the "Race" in the name, this is an endurance-focused aluminium road bike, with a more upright ride position.

• Read our full Cube Axial WS Race review

Forme Monyash 2

• £1,000 as tested
• Great ride quality despite modest spec
• Quality wheels and tyres on thru-axle hubs

Forme says the Monyash is designed for tarmac, light gravel and year-round endurance riding. It's kitted out with disc brakes on its thru-axle wheels, with space for 35mm tyres to support that versatility. Plus, you get three sets of bottle bosses as well as mudguard and rack mounts.

The 2 spec of the Monyash comes with a Shimano Claris 8-speed groupset and we rated the wheels, shod with quality Schwalbe One tyres, although we'd up their 25mm width for extra grip and comfort.

We enjoyed the Forme's smooth, confident and controlled ride over a variety of not-so-good road surfaces.

• Read our full Forme Monyash 2 review

Kinesis 4S Disc

• £1,850 as tested
• A bike for all occasions
• Supremely versatile

The 4S Disc from Kinesis does a great job of being a bike for all occasions, so if you’re willing to snub the n+1 phenomenon then this could be the buy for you.

Available in road and gravel build options, the road-going version we tested goes without the flared handlebar and wider tyres of its sibling.

Despite this, the 4S Disc is loads of fun and is incredibly versatile, and we know it can work for year-round commuting, training, touring or bikepacking . If you’re not feeling quite so pink, there’s a more subtle blue colour available.

• Read our full Kinesis 4S Disc review

Kinesis Aithein Disc

• £2,680 build as tested
• Super-stiff frame
• Great price

The Kinesis Aithein Disc is an uncomplicated aluminium road bike that uses only standard parts. This is something quite refreshing in a world of proprietary headsets, aerofoils and dropped seatstays.

Racy intentions are at the heart of the Aithein. Reflective of that is a pretty familiar race bike geometry , maximum tyre width of 28mm and no mounts for mudguards or accessories.

Out on the road, the bike's stiff frame means it is great at climbing and descending. The ride is reasonably smooth but certainly firm. If you're feeling strong, the Aithein will deliver an engaging ride that's undeniably fun.

Kinesis offers the Aithein as a frameset, but the build we tested with fitted Shimano Ultegra presented good value.

• Read our full Kinesis Aithein Disc review

• £1,500 as tested
• Versatile aluminium road bike designed for a 1× drivetrain
• SRAM Apex drivetrain and optional mudguards

1× drivetrains haven't really caught on for the road, but their simplicity is appealing for a practical, all-weather bike.

The R1 is designed with 1× in mind and comes specced with SRAM Apex components. Thanks to an 11-42 cassette, the gear range is not lacking.

The R1 is a likeable and engaging ride that's well suited to putting in winter miles, particularly if you opt for the full mudguards upgrade.

• Read our full Kinesis R1 review

• £1,680 as tested
• Good to look at and ride
• Dependable build

In making the R2, Kinesis hasn't tweaked much from its predecessor, the R1, except for adding another chainring on the front.

Even with a 2x drivetrain, the R2 is adept across most terrain, including light gravel, thanks to 32mm tyres and Alex rims, which are designed for cyclocross .

Weighing 10kg, the R2 is never going to fly up climbs. But with mounts for racks and mudguards, plus hydraulic disc brakes, it'll make an agile winter bike and it's zippy enough to ride all year round.

• Read our full Kinesis R2 review

Specialized Allez Sprint Comp

• £2,650/$3,000/€3,500/AU$4,200 as tested
• Stiff frame with exemplary response
• Ripe for a wheel and tyre upgrade

The Allez Sprint Comp borrows from Specialized's pro-level Tarmac SL7 , with the same geometry and aero tube profiles. Specialized also claims similar ride characteristics and it's a bike that you'd be hard-pressed to tell from a carbon frame.

The ride is a great mix of stiffness when pedalling with smoothness and there's a fast, exciting feel. It comes stock with 26mm tyres, but there's room in the frame for 32mm rubber.

The groupset is Shimano 105 with hydraulic disc brakes and a 52/36t chainset with 11-28t cassette, but you could fit a wider-range cassette if you preferred. The Allez Sprint Comp would benefit from a wheel and tyre upgrade though, and its weight isn't competitive with similarly priced carbon bikes.

• Read our full Specialized Allez Sprint Comp review

Specialized Allez Sport

• £1,600/$1,800/€1,750/AU$2,500
• Commuter-friendly
• Nimble handling

Dispensing with rim brakes on the Allez Sport has enabled Specialized to increase tyre clearance to an impressive 35mm. When rolling on wider rubber, the Allez Sport remains comfortable on iffy surfaces.

Clearance decreases to 32mm with mudguards, for which it has mounts. You can also fit a rear rack, which makes the Allez Sport a great commuter or winter bike.

The endurance geometry puts you in a fairly relaxed riding position, but that's not to say the Allez Sport isn't fun to ride.

• Read our full Specialized Allez Sport review

Trek Domane AL 2

• £775/$1,100/€792/AU$1,600 as tested
• Impressive handling and spec for an entry-level bike
• Generously specced

Although it's an entry-level aluminium road bike, you still get a carbon fork with front-end IsoSpeed on the trek Domane AL 2, a feature designed to increase bar comfort found on much more expensive Trek bikes.

There's external cabling: good for maintenance, less so for consistent shifting once it gets dirty.

Spec-wise, there's 8-speed Shimano Claris with a non-series chainset and no-name brakes, which proved fairly ineffective, even in the dry.

We were really impressed by the smooth ride and handling of the Domane, even on its 25mm tyres, although the wheels felt a little heavy. But with its mudguard and rack mounts, we reckon the Domane would make a great winter bike or commuter.

• Read our full Trek Domane AL 2 review

Trek Émonda ALR 5

• £2,325/$2,300/€2,499/AU$3,500 as tested
• Up-to-date spec

The Trek Émonda ALR 5 proves that performance road bikes don't have to be made from carbon. In fact, the frameset weighs in only a fraction heavier than the carbon version, the Trek Émonda SL 5 Disc .

A compliant ride, trusty steering and the quality Shimano 105 R7000 groupset ensure the alloy Émonda is competitively priced.

However, sluggish tyres and leaden wheels take the gloss off the Émonda's performance.

• Read our full Trek Émonda ALR review

Triban RC 500 Disc

• £530 as tested
• Confident all-weather stopping

The RC 500 Disc is one of the best sub-£600 disc-brake road bikes that we've tested. Naturally, the RC 500 carries a weight penalty over a rim-brake bike at this price, but the Shimano Sora transmission components it uses are still commonplace on bikes costing a lot more.

It provides an engaging, comfortable and reassuring ride that's ideal for commuting or general road riding.

• Read our full Triban RC 500 Disc review

Vitus Razor Claris

• £500 as tested
• Comfortable 28mm tyres
• Proven geometry

The Razor Claris from Chain Reaction Cycles’ own brand Vitus is a top value-first aluminium road bike or year-round training tool. Simplicity is key at this price point and Vitus didn’t stray from what it knows works well.

The alloy frame of the Razor inherited its dialled geometry from more expensive bikes in the Vitus line-up and the 28mm tyres it’s fitted with mean plenty of comfort.

The frame and carbon fork are ready to accept mudguards but not racks. Like other bikes at this price, it’s pretty weighty, but that’s par for the course.

• Read our full Vitus Razor Claris review

Common misconceptions that surround aluminium/alloy bikes

Aluminium or alloy.

It can be misleading to call an aluminium alloy bike frame ‘alloy’. After all, steel, titanium and aluminium-frame bikes will be made from metals that are alloys.

Despite this, calling a bike with an aluminium frame an alloy bike is still considered the norm.

"Aluminium bikes are excessively stiff"

One common misconception that surrounds aluminium alloy frames is that they provide a ride character that is excessively stiff.

It's true that some early aluminium frames were brutally stiff, but those days of experimentation have long since passed.

In truth, a frame’s stiffness is dictated by far more than just the material it is made from, with sizing, tube shapes and material grade being some of the many other crucial variables.

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Trek Emonda ALR first-ride review: Light and fast, but best on smooth roads

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It wasn’t all that long ago that aluminum was considered largely obsolete as a frame material: too soft and heavy relative to carbon fiber, not as much zing or “life” as steel or titanium. But the material is nevertheless enjoying a strong resurgence, and Trek is the latest major brand to add fuel to that fire. The new Emonda ALR aluminum road family is reasonably competitive with carbon fiber in terms of weight and stiffness, and new manufacturing methods make it drop-dead gorgeous, too. It’s also comparatively cheap. But alas, there’s still a price to be paid.

The Emonda ALR by the numbers

On paper, it’s hard to argue with Trek’s new Emonda ALR.

At least as far as the scale is concerned, the Emonda ALR is nearly on-par with the carbon fiber Emonda SL. Claimed frame weight for the disc-brake is 1,131g, and 1,112g for the rim-brake edition — just 40g heavier than its fancier (and more expensive) cousin. And according to Trek, the Emonda ALR’s chassis stiffness figures aren’t far behind, either, thanks in no small part to the fact that its 300-Series Alpha Aluminum hydroformed tubes use nearly the same shapes as the upper-end Emondas.

Both rim-brake and disc-brake versions are on tap — naturally — and tire clearances are in-keeping with trends in the road space. Maximum official tire size on the rim-brake version is 25mm; 28mm for the disc-brake models. That sounds decidedly behind the times at first, yes, but keep in mind that Trek’s internal rating for maximum tire size is unusually conservative. Whereas most companies abide by international standards for clearance (at least 4mm of space on all sides of the tire at the closest point), Trek adds another 2mm on top of that, so comparing apples to apples, the rim-brake Emonda ALR will comfortably handle 29mm-wide tires, and the disc-brake bikes will fit 32mm-wide ones. Much better.

Handling-wise, Trek has carried over the same frame geometry as on the carbon Emonda models, which, in turn, were derived from the highly evolved figures of the long-standing Madone range. In other words, it promises truly neutral characteristics, with stable manners at high speeds, a seemingly contradictory willingness to carve through sinuous descents, and reasonable agility at low speeds without having the front end feel too floppy. Trek hasn’t changed its bread-and-butter road geometry much in ages, and that’s a good thing.

In terms of rider positioning, though, Trek will only offer the Emonda ALR in the tamer H2 fit with its slightly taller head tube. Riders who are specifically after a more aggressive posture will still need to look at the top-end Emonda SLR range.

Other features include partially internal cable routing (just through the down tube), 12mm front and rear thru-axles and flat-mount caliper interfaces on disc-brake models, quick-release dropouts and direct-mount caliper mounts on rim-brake models, PF86 press-fit bottom bracket shells across the board, tapered steerer tubes on the full-carbon forks, standard 27.2mm-diameter round seatposts with conventional external seatpost clamps, and a small pocket built into the non-driveside chainstay for Bontrager’s DuoTrap wireless speed and cadence sensor.

None of this sounds remotely groundbreaking. And the focus on stiffness-to-weight means there isn’t a smidgeon of aerodynamic shaping to be found here. There’s not a single mention of wind tunnels or grams of drag or yaw angles in any of Trek’s marketing collateral. In an ever-expanding world of sleek two-wheeled machines that are starting to look more like airplanes than bicycles, the Emonda ALR might seem like a throwback.

But oh, man, you just have to see the thing.

Invisible Weld Technology

The way aluminum bicycle frames are welded hasn’t changed much in decades. With few exceptions, tubes are mitered at the joints and held together in a jig for a close fit, and then the intersections are basically just melted together at high heat, with an additional bead of similar material — the weld bead — added on top for additional structural reinforcement. Sometimes welders take two passes over the joint, and sometimes it’s just one, and sometimes the bead is filed down for a smoother look. But by and large, the process is the same today as it was when people thought Jeff Bezos was nuts for thinking he could sell books over the internet.

Specialized legitimately moved things forward a few years ago with the introduction of Smartweld . Normally, those mitered aluminum tubes fit together kind of like how you would join empty rolls of paper towels together in a grade school art project, with the end of one tube carved out to fit tightly against the unaltered wall of the other tube.

But Smartweld is more like holding the bottom of two soda cans against each other. There’s a natural trough that the welding rod can fill, there’s more surface area to join together for better structural integrity, the weld itself is moved away from the areas of highest stress, the adjoining tube walls can be made thinner and lighter, and the resulting joint ends up more flush with the surrounding tube wall for a smoother finish. There’s more hydroforming work required to initially create that sort of interface geometry on the individual parts, but it’s a brilliant idea that Specialized has used to great effect.

Trek is now doing something similar, calling it “Invisible Weld Technology.” The concept is much the same, at least in terms of the weld joint geometry itself, but whereas Specialized moves the weld further up on the tubes, IWT uses the same weld location as a standard mitered joint.

Details aside, the result is visually stunning. For example, Trek has formed the head tube and top tube of the new Emonda ALR with the same shapes as the carbon fiber Emonda SL and SLR, and unless you look very closely, you can’t even tell where one part ends and the other begins; it’s truly seamless as far as your eyes are concerned.

Other areas of the frame are joined using more conventional welding techniques, and the Emonda’s press-fit bottom bracket shell is a far cry from the bulbous and hollow two-piece clamshell that Specialized uses on the Allez Sprint . But it’s important to note that Trek is just getting started with the IWT concept, and it’ll be very interesting to see where it goes from here.

Off-the-shelf, or build to suit

As good as the Emonda ALR platform sounds, Trek clearly isn’t interested in having it cannibalize sales from the carbon fiber Emonda families based on the build kits on tap. Just five complete models are available, all of which focus more on value than outright performance. Complete Shimano groupsets are featured throughout, along with hydraulic brakes for all disc-equipped models. The one exception are the Tektro brake calipers on lower-end rim-brake models, since Shimano doesn’t make a direct-mount caliper at that price point.

At the lower end are the Emonda ALR 4 and ALR 4 Disc, built with Shimano Tiagra and Bontrager Affinity TLR tubeless-ready aluminum clinchers. The rim-brake version costs US$1,360 / AU$1,500, and the disc-brake version (which won’t be brought into Australia) costs US$1,680.

At the upper end are the Emonda ALR 5 and ALR 5 Disc, built with the same Bontrager Affinity TLR tubeless-ready aluminum wheels, but with Shimano’s 105 groupset. Retail price for the rim-brake version is US$1,580 / AU$2,000, or US$1,890 / AU$2,400 for the disc-brake version.

There will also be a sole women-specific model, the Emonda ALR 5 Disc Women’s. Basic spec is unchanged, and it’s built with the same frameset, but touch points are altered to promote a better fit and feel. Pricing is the same as the standard Emonda ALR 5 Disc, but like the Emonda ALR 4 Disc, Trek doesn’t plan to sell it in Australia.

Trek still isn’t ignoring the performance potential of the Emonda ALR, either; there’s also a bare frameset available for riders that might want to do a higher-end build. Retail price is US$960 for either the rim-brake or disc-brake version, but neither will be imported into Australia.

Pricing and availability for other regions is still to be confirmed.

Bones, shaken

I rode a custom-built Emonda ALR for several hours on the roads surrounding Trek’s global headquarters in Waterloo, Wisconsin, where the rolling hills and seemingly endless expanse of sparsely populated roads provide plenty of opportunity to test a bike’s mettle. Rather than set us up on stock models, Trek went the DIY route, outfitting the frames with Shimano’s latest Ultegra mechanical groupset, low-profile Bontrager Aeolus XXX 2 carbon clinchers, 25mm-wide Bontrager R3 tubeless tires, and an assortment of Bontrager carbon fiber finishing kit. Total weight for my 52cm sample was just 7.4kg (16.31lb), without pedals, but with bottle cages and Blendr accessory mounts.

True to claims, the Emonda ALR felt satisfyingly stout under power, and plenty eager to squirt up short and punchy climbs. Front-end torsional rigidity is good, too, although not quite on-par with top-end carbon models, with some flex detected when you’re really wrenching on the bars.

As expected, handling is picture-perfect, like a well-trained horse that almost doesn’t require any physical input from its rider before doing exactly what you want it to. Set those numbers in stone, Trek.

But as pleasant as Trek’s home roads are, the asphalt is distinctly coarse and lumpy, and the pavement seams impossible to ignore. Trek has successfully showcased other bikes on this stage before, but for the Emonda ALR, it might have been better to choose somewhere with better-quality roads.

The Emonda ALR seems to put up a good fight against more expensive carbon bikes in terms of weight and stiffness, however it’s simply no match in terms of ride comfort. Even with the tires inflated to a modest 70psi or so under my 70kg body, the Emonda ALR offers a rough ride, with little vibration damping to speak of and plenty of impact harshness traveling up through the handlebar and saddle. If anything, it only highlights further the uncanny comfort of the new Madone .

That firm ride will certainly be viewed differently by different riders, and it’s important to note that frame compliance varies proportionally with frame size (and remember that I’m 1.73m tall, weigh 70kg, and ride a relatively small 52cm). Would a heavier and/or taller rider have a different experience? Maybe. But again, stiffness and weight still seem to me to have been the primary design objectives here, and frame compliance strikes me as falling further down on the list. Granted, switching to a more flexible seatpost and tires with more suppleness than the rather stiff-bodied Bontrager R3s of my test bike help, but there are limits to how much you can mask the inherent characteristics of a frameset. As is, the Emonda ALR wouldn’t be my first choice for a long day in the saddle on less-than-ideal road surfaces.

This isn’t to say that I wasn’t impressed with the Emonda ALR overall. I’m a big fan of aluminum bikes in general, and I’m definitely excited to see Trek (and others) devoting more attention to the genre. The Emonda ALR is light and stiff, and an unquestionably good value from a mainstream brand. Privateer racers will unquestionably find much to like here, as will anyone prioritizing stiffness and low weight, and living in areas with good-quality roads.

But just as perpetual motion machines, fountains of youth, and fusion reactors are still the stuff of folklore, the Emonda ALR isn’t quite a tale of getting true carbon fiber performance at aluminum pricing. If you enter into the arrangement with realistic expectations of what you might be getting, you’ll probably be happy with it. And as always, a test ride is probably a good idea before signing on the dotted line.

As much as some of us might like to believe otherwise, material properties are what they are, and as good as the Emonda ALR is, you still don’t get something for nothing.

www.trekbikes.com Disclaimer: Trek provided flights, accommodations, and loaner equipment for this event, and has previously advertised on CyclingTips.

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\"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/giro-ditalia-stage-20-tadej-pogacar-reigns-supreme-secures-pink-jersey-with-sledgehammer-monte-grappa-attack\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"giro d\u0027italia stage 20: tadej poga\u010dar reigns supreme, secures pink jersey with sledgehammer monte grappa attack\"}}\u0027>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n\n \n\n \n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/giro-ditalia-stage-20-tadej-pogacar-reigns-supreme-secures-pink-jersey-with-sledgehammer-monte-grappa-attack\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"giro d\u0027italia stage 20: tadej poga\u010dar reigns supreme, secures pink jersey with sledgehammer monte grappa attack\"}}\u0027>\n giro d\u0027italia stage 20: tadej poga\u010dar reigns supreme, secures pink jersey with sledgehammer monte grappa attack\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n "},{"title":"giro d\u0027italia stage 16: disgusting weather doesn\u0027t stop tadej poga\u010dar and his pink jersey romp","url":"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/giro-ditalia-stage-16-terrible-weather-doesnt-stop-pogacars-pink-jersey-romp\/","markup":" \n \n\n\n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/giro-ditalia-stage-16-terrible-weather-doesnt-stop-pogacars-pink-jersey-romp\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"giro d\u0027italia stage 16: disgusting weather doesn\u0027t stop tadej poga\u010dar and his pink jersey romp\"}}\u0027>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n\n \n\n \n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/giro-ditalia-stage-16-terrible-weather-doesnt-stop-pogacars-pink-jersey-romp\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"giro d\u0027italia stage 16: disgusting weather doesn\u0027t stop tadej poga\u010dar and his pink jersey romp\"}}\u0027>\n giro d\u0027italia stage 16: disgusting weather doesn\u0027t stop tadej poga\u010dar and his pink jersey romp\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n "},{"title":"review: trek carback bike radar makes big promises","url":"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-gear\/review-trek-carback-bike-radar-makes-big-promises\/","markup":" \n \n\n\n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-gear\/review-trek-carback-bike-radar-makes-big-promises\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"review: trek carback bike radar makes big promises\"}}\u0027>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n\n \n\n \n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-gear\/review-trek-carback-bike-radar-makes-big-promises\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"review: trek carback bike radar makes big promises\"}}\u0027>\n review: trek carback bike radar makes big promises\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n "},{"title":"rider crashes 25 meters down ravine, climbs out, and doesn\u0027t come last in giro d\u0027italia \u0027queen stage\u0027","url":"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/giro-ditalia-jenthe-biermans-crashes-25-meters-down-ravine\/","markup":" \n \n\n\n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/giro-ditalia-jenthe-biermans-crashes-25-meters-down-ravine\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"rider crashes 25 meters down ravine, climbs out, and doesn\u0027t come last in giro d\u0027italia \u0027queen stage\u0027\"}}\u0027>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n\n \n\n \n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/giro-ditalia-jenthe-biermans-crashes-25-meters-down-ravine\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"rider crashes 25 meters down ravine, climbs out, and doesn\u0027t come last in giro d\u0027italia \u0027queen stage\u0027\"}}\u0027>\n rider crashes 25 meters down ravine, climbs out, and doesn\u0027t come last in giro d\u0027italia \u0027queen stage\u0027\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n "},{"title":"3-time tour de france stage winner matej mohori\u010d is racing unbound gravel","url":"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/gravel\/gravel-racing\/3-time-tour-de-france-stage-winner-matej-mohoric-is-racing-unbound-gravel\/","markup":" \n \n\n\n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/gravel\/gravel-racing\/3-time-tour-de-france-stage-winner-matej-mohoric-is-racing-unbound-gravel\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"3-time tour de france stage winner matej mohori\u010d is racing unbound gravel\"}}\u0027>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n\n \n\n \n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/gravel\/gravel-racing\/3-time-tour-de-france-stage-winner-matej-mohoric-is-racing-unbound-gravel\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"3-time tour de france stage winner matej mohori\u010d is racing unbound gravel\"}}\u0027>\n 3-time tour de france stage winner matej mohori\u010d is racing unbound gravel\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n "},{"title":"notebook: mart\u00ednez exasperated by ineos inertia, o\u0027connor and thomas explain futility of following poga\u010dar","url":"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/notebook-martinez-exasperated-by-ineos-inertia-oconnor-and-thomas-explain-futility-of-following-pogacar\/","markup":" \n \n\n\n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/notebook-martinez-exasperated-by-ineos-inertia-oconnor-and-thomas-explain-futility-of-following-pogacar\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"notebook: mart\u00ednez exasperated by ineos inertia, o\u0027connor and thomas explain futility of following poga\u010dar\"}}\u0027>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n\n \n\n \n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/notebook-martinez-exasperated-by-ineos-inertia-oconnor-and-thomas-explain-futility-of-following-pogacar\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"notebook: mart\u00ednez exasperated by ineos inertia, o\u0027connor and thomas explain futility of following poga\u010dar\"}}\u0027>\n notebook: mart\u00ednez exasperated by ineos inertia, o\u0027connor and thomas explain futility of following poga\u010dar\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n "},{"title":"opinion: kona bikes relaunch \u2013 a return to an age of passion over profit","url":"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/news\/opinion-kona-bikes-relaunch-a-return-to-an-age-of-passion-over-profit\/","markup":" \n \n\n\n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/news\/opinion-kona-bikes-relaunch-a-return-to-an-age-of-passion-over-profit\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"opinion: kona bikes relaunch \u2013 a return to an age of passion over profit\"}}\u0027>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n\n \n\n \n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/news\/opinion-kona-bikes-relaunch-a-return-to-an-age-of-passion-over-profit\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"opinion: kona bikes relaunch \u2013 a return to an age of passion over profit\"}}\u0027>\n opinion: kona bikes relaunch \u2013 a return to an age of passion over profit\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n "},{"title":"bike check: the pinarello dogma f of geraint thomas and ineos grenadiers","url":"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/bike-check-the-pinarello-dogma-f-of-geraint-thomas-and-ineos-grenadiers\/","markup":" \n \n\n\n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/bike-check-the-pinarello-dogma-f-of-geraint-thomas-and-ineos-grenadiers\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"bike check: the pinarello dogma f of geraint thomas and ineos grenadiers\"}}\u0027>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n\n \n\n \n \n\n \n \n >\", \"path\": \"https:\/\/velo.outsideonline.com\/road\/road-racing\/giro-ditalia\/bike-check-the-pinarello-dogma-f-of-geraint-thomas-and-ineos-grenadiers\/\", \"listing_type\": \"recirc\", \"location\": \"list\", \"title\": \"bike check: the pinarello dogma f of geraint thomas and ineos grenadiers\"}}\u0027>\n bike check: the pinarello dogma f of geraint thomas and ineos grenadiers\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n "}]' > >", "name": "footer-menu", "type": "link"}}'>advertise >", "name": "footer-menu", "type": "link"}}'>privacy policy >", "name": "footer-menu", "type": "link"}}'>contact >", "name": 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All-new Trek Emonda ALR takes lightweight frame tech to alloy models

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When Trek announced their Emonda carbon road bike line , they backed up their “world’s lightest” claims with an impressive frame and fork and an even more impressive 10.25lb (4.6kg) complete bike. Now, they’re adding an alloy Emonda ALR option that’s also lightweight yet far more affordable.

To earn the Emonda badge, the frame uses their top-level 300-series Alpha Aluminum that’s been hydroformed into size specific tubes, then welded together using a no-see technique that produces smooth joints that use less material to save weight.

The process is called Invisible Weld Technology, which they say produces stronger, stiffer welds despite using less material. Video, pics and more details below…

Trek told us the unpainted frame is 1050g (56), and a painted fork is 358g w/240mm steerer.

Like the ultralight Emonda carbon models, the ALR uses their H2 race geometry, E2 tapered headtube (standard 1-1/8″ to 1-1/2″) and wide Pressfit BB 86.5, meaning this bike is made to go fast. Other frame details include a braze-on front derailleur mount (no need to add a clamp if you’re getting the frameset) and external cable routing.

We’ve requested a more technical description of the welding process (update as we get it), but the frame is only part of the story. The complete bikes come equipped with built-in extras like the a Blendr stem with integrated light/computer mount, and it has Duotrap S compatibility (their ANT+/Bluetooth 4.0 speed/cadence sensor, sold separately for about $60).

You also get a complete group, so the Emonda ALR 6 with Ultregra gets a full Ultegra group from chain to brakes to cassette and everything else. There are no mis-matched parts or down spec’d bits to cut costs. A full carbon fiber tapered fork completes the package.

The Emonda ALR will initially come in two builds, the “6” with full Ultegra, Bontrager Race tubeless ready wheels with R2 tires, and a Bontrager cockpit with alloy short reach/drop bar and carbon seatpost for $2,249.99. Our local Trek Bike Store says complete bike weight is claimed at 17.25lb (7.82kg).

The Emonda ALR 5 drops down to a full Shimano 105 group with non-series Bontrager tubeless ready alloy wheels, R1 tires and a full alloy Bontrager cockpit for $1,759.99. Claimed weight is 18.77lb (8.51kg), colors will be the gloss black/hi-viz yellow and blue shown here, plus a racing red coming soon.

The frameset shares the same paint scheme as the “6” and comes with an FSA sealed cartridge bearing headset for $989.99. The frames have a lifetime warranty carrying a 275lb rider weight limit.

Just for fun, here’s the companion lifestyle video.

All three models shown here are available now and should hit stores soon. Our sources tell us there’ll also be an Emonda ALR 5 with Tiagra, an ALR 8 with Dura-Ace mechanical and ALR 9 with Dura-Ace Di2 coming soon. That last model suggests they’ll have an electronic-only frame, too, since these first models only have external cable routing. At the very top, in terms of light weight anyway, will be the ALR 10 with a full SRAM Red group.

TrekBikes.com

Tyler Benedict is the Founder of Bikerumor.com . He has been writing about the latest bikes, components, and cycling technology for almost two decades. Prior to that, Tyler launched and built multiple sports nutrition brands and consumer goods companies, mostly as an excuse to travel to killer riding locations throughout North America.

Based in North Carolina, Tyler loves family adventure travel and is always on the lookout for the next shiny new part to make his bikes faster and lighter.

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looks like a rebadged Allez

The invisible welding looks a lot like what pretty much every other company calls smooth welding. And has been using for years. You weld the tube normally then go back over it without filler material and “reweld” it. The process smooths out the weld and helps it wet out. REVOLUTIONARY TREK!!!

Interesting that they are using hydroformed tubes but didn’t choose the aero tube shapes of the Madone design.

@Robert W – my sources say the Madone is on the way out. & if the story is about weight vs. areo it would make sense to mimick the emonda shapes. Also, the 2 series aluminum frames are already Madone-esqe.

I always find it funny that companies state how they’ve extensively optimized tube shapes for their flagship carbon fiber bikes, but then seemingly can successfully apply those shapes to materials with very different properties. There is a little marketing lie in their somewhere.

Anyway. Glad to see these Al bikes. CF has been getting too pricey fort me.

I like how they quote an unpainted frame weight, then only offer it in a painted variety. But lets also make sure we pair that unpainted weight with a painted fork weight.

Looks legit. Seeing they are coming out of the Giant factory why not put on the overdrive 2 fork and stem and really take it next level?

Aluminum, how quaint.

Why not sell them unpainted if they weight them unpainted? JBikes if I read you right what your saying is the shapes have far mo9re to do with design than engineering.all thes tube shapes are probaly coming from kitchen appliance design firm and they bs riders who rarely go over 20mph that aero is worth buying a new bike for

That Bontrager cycling kit is pretty damn nice. “Understated” as the hipsters like to say.

How about US made aluminum, with giant tubes, some internal routing, and some really funky paint jobs. Oh wait…

Hasn”t specialized already been doing this for like 3 years now? And better welded joints? Revolutionary-nothing is more like it, just another slightly modified copy frame.

Roy – no I was just commenting on the fact it’s stated how non aero tube shapes are optimized for carbon fiber for whatever properties (stiffness, weight, ride) but then a vastly different material can achieve the same with the same tube shapes? I’m sure they vary material thickness and such, but given the vast difference in CF and Al, I’d think tube shapes would vary more between the two materials, unless the CF and Al frames ride completely different.

Jesus, tough crowd. Lightweight aluminum, full component groups and small price tags… Sounds good to me.

Full Ultegra! Well… except the wheels. Of which, the Bontrager Race spec is a few notches below Ultegra…

y’all are haters. you can pick on the marketing and on random bits and pieces but in the end this is the bike you’re going to start seeing at all the local crits and races. So they have weird marketing, worry about the bike and what it can do for you.

Aluminum is the new carbon.

Yeah a bunch of haters here, Go buy a Specialized because they are not owned by the big man, Oh wait, Specialized is own by a conglomerate, and Trek is family owned. Seems like most people don’t understand the definition of “the man” Don’t hate on them just because you don’t like it that more people ride Trek than any other brand in the US.

@Durianrider, you’re killing me! Lol

When you think about it, it’s a bike people actually look for: Workhorse, and the no-nonsense but clean aesthetic.

Considering the Propel SLR might not come stateside, as well as the update TCR SLR before it, it’s nice to have another potential alloy option on the market that isn’t an Allez or CAAD.

I really like where Trek is going with their new paint schemes. Very minimal branding and no stupid racing stripes and decals. Keep it premium!

Jbikes: I understand why you’re asking about why two frames with different materials have the same tube shapes, but in fact they probably should have the same shapes.

In the bike industry (and many others), it’s common practice to design using isotropic material properties (e.g., with aluminum) for a first pass. The resulting stiffness (quantified through FEA) ensures you’re getting the most sectional modulus you can out of a given tube shape. Only then do you go back and design a laminate schedule with anisotropic materials (e.g., carbon fiber).

This allows the designer to clearly separate the modulus (stiffness) due to tube shape and the modulus due to the laminate schedule. That way, each can be optimized as a discrete step.

Except for a few corner cases, optimal frame tube shape is material-independent. Surprising but true!

Looks like a great bike at a good price. I love nice aluminum race bikes. But why no H1 geometry option? It irks me that companies (not just Trek) spec the really race oriented stuff at the high-end of the price scale. I know a short head tube doesn’t work for everyone but why not give us the option? What does the size of your wallet have to do with your flexibility?

I’m wondering if some of the frames are anodized, so unpainted weight would be pretty relevant.

JasonK – thanks! Great info. Never really thought of it that way but it makes sense.

I like the emonda and the CrossRip frame for my commuter. I would seriously consider if I was in the market and carbon was not an option.

Man that’s a light frame. Nice to see they are using full groupset specs.

I wonder if the welding is a form of aluminium brazing using a lower melting temperature brazing rod. I think this is what Shimano do with the external reinforcing tabs on the aluminium rims. This is supposed to be lower strength than welding but coming up with some newer technology is not beyond Trek’s resources. Or maybe they have come up with a way to modify the pulse action of a TIG welder with a certain filler wire application. Either way, the old double pass method for aluminium is old hat now.

Most companies claim unpainted frame weights. Use this general guide: If a company says “…painted frame weight is…” then it’s including paint. If they don’t specifically say painted then you can guarantee it’s an unpainted frame weight.

The only reason I wouldn’t buy one of these is the head tube is too tall…

I applaud Trek for coming out with a ‘light’ and ‘inexpensive’ aluminum frameset but I’m still not sold on the H2 geometry.

Sincerely, Worlds longest head tube.

I like the option of a high end aluminum frame as well….but this one misses the mark for me because trek refuses to make any bike with its “racer” H1 geometry that doesn’t cost at least 4,500 for a frameset. If they only would make H1 options of their emonda sl frame or this new all I’d buy one in a second. Trek already makes a million bike models….why not better fit options? Ever since they did away with the 6 series madone the options for the budget conscious racer have gone to zero. Bleh. And more seatmast length options trek!

Nearly the same weight as a Cannondale frame that was first manufactured out of the same material about 6 years ago

I think this will make a GREAT race frame.

Certainly beats trying to replace a carbon frame someone broke for you in that ‘last corner of the criterium’ crash.

If I see one more I’m-so-flexible-I-can-stick-my-head-up-my-ass comment about the lack of H1 geometry, I might give up trolling comments on bike rumor all together. Seriously, 5 years at a Trek dealer and we sold maybe 3 H1 bikes (all as special order). We ordered dozens more project 1 bikes in the ‘normal’ H2. Working now at a Cervelo dealer I have very few people balk at the head tube height, and MOST are running a positive angle on the stem anyways. At 6’3″ I run 14cm of bar drop. I have had zero issue getting a proper fit on stock bikes, including Trek. Currently on the newly updated (i.e. market norm) stack of the 2015 Cervelo S5 I still have 15mm of spacers under my stem. If H2 geo just doesn’t do it for you, grab a Cannonade with a low profile headset cap and go ride. They are making a bike for the largest market, obviously the budget racers this bike is designed for are too busy riding their bikes to complain on Bike Rumor…..

Looks like a great bike for the money and your avg rider. Nothing wrong with that. Kudos too for specing a complete group build, awesome!

Waiting for my ALR 5 to arrive!! Last bike I bought was in 1986, a Myata One Ten. Hopefully this one will last another 29 years.

uhhh… the allez actually looks good

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/allez/allez-comp-race

the only thing actually missing from these frames are some colorway options like the tarmacs

i had a domane and the headtube was too tall.

i might get one of these. its pretty affordable all things considered.

There doesn’t seem too much, if anything at all, to complain about here. The Emonda ALR frame MSRP is right in line with a CAAD10 frame MSRP ($10 cheaper actually). It looks good, and it’s certainly not a heavyweight bike. If it rides as good as it looks, it will be a great deal.

@MikeC – Are you kidding? I haven’t seen anyone refer to a full groupset as including the wheel since like 1999. Some people are just desperate to find something to bitch about. The Bontrager Race wheels are great. They only weigh 200g more than the Ultegras, and unlike every Shimano wheel, they are specced completely with off-the-shelf parts that are easily purchasable in any bike shop.

@Adam – Yes, because Cannondale were the first company with an aluminum racing bike. You forget the Trek, via Klein, were making awesome lightweight aluminum race bikes when Cannondale was still welding together soda cans.

@H1 Lovers – You’re all on crack. A quarter of the Trek pros don’t even ride the H1, and I promise you that you are not that fast. I can also tick off a list of local heroes, Cat 1 and PRO dudes, who get by just fine on the H2, usually preferring it to the H1.

@Psi – And the Trek is clearly much better specced than the Cannondale, with an Ultegra crank and Bontrager Race wheels, not to mention a cockpit that won’t require immediate replacement.

Wait to you see the next gen cannondale frame before you jump on this..

I am happy this exists. Buyers beware if you crash this thing it’s probably going to dent up like tinfoil.

@badbikemechanic – What makes you say that? There is a generation of high end aluminum out there that holds up just fine to the rigors of daily life. I personally have an aluminum Allez that I regularly leave locked up outside of bars, the grocery store, as well as race, and it hasn’t even scratched the anodized finish yet.

As always, opinions abound….and everyone is “right.” The H1 vs. H2 debate is clearly a hotter topic than I thought. What it boils down to though is “choice.”

Trek offers the option, meaning there are people that prefer it. I rode a 60 cm H1 Madone 6 series last year, and absolutely loved it. Sadly it was a team bike and I had to give it back at the end of the year. In looking for a replacement I want a bike with similar geometry, but don’t want to spend 4,500 to have the OPTION to get the geometry I like. The head tube on the H1 is 18 cm…compared with 21 cm on the H2. That is a LARGE difference. I don’t think anyone is right or wrong to ride whatever geometry they like. All I’m saying is that for me…the H1 geometry is perfect, and I don’t need to run a -17 stem to get my preferred position of the bike. Being a pro, being fast or slow, is irrelevant. I would just like to see the option available at a reasonable price point.

These bikes are epic. And yes, they blow the competition out of the water.

About time Trek offers something for the Joe-Racers out there. Yes, carbon is super nice but you guess what: so is aluminum. I have a locally-made Aluminum bike and it rides *amazing*. So did my old Caad7 and I bet Specialized’s aluminum bike is also fantastic. We need more people in the sport, and to do that we need a much lower entry-level bar. if for $2,200 you get a nice Al Trek with good geometry, good wheels (i own the bontis tlr and they’re indestructible and readily serviceable), good parts and cockpit that are either race-ready or hammer-ready, then god bless Trek. For the record i own a cannondale six and it’s a phenomenal bike. but my aluminum rig is my favorite. way to go, Trek – kudos indeed.

Arguing that “some pros ride H2, therefore nobody needs H1” is well, just a poor excuse for an argument. An H1 aluminum Emonda would be a hit, and I would purchase one as soon as it were available. I’ve owned and ridden both H1/H2 models, and greatly prefer the H1. As an aside, direct mount breaks on this beast would be the icing on the cake. Think about it Trek.

This bike compared with the new caad 12 is nothing …

I’ve got a current model year Allez smartweld frame built up with full 105 and tubeless Shimano wheels. I certainly didn’t do it for $1760 retail, but then some parts on my bike (bars, saddle, tires) are from a very much higher trim level. I’ve also got all the accessories (cages, tools, &c) in my price, and I was unable to use the economy of scale a manufacturer can.

ANYWAY. The ride quality of my Allez is nothing short of amazing considering. It is *as smooth* as my steel 3-speed with 38mm tires over brick roads. I have no problems riding the Allez a hundred miles, though I run out of water. The Allez smartweld is making me completely re-think aluminum as a frame material, especially for amateur racer types.

These Treks seem to DIRECTLY compete with the Allez smartweld introduced last year, which is great, since it engenders competitive designs. When you get an Allez Comp (with 105), you pay less, but you miss out on the excellent 5800 brakes and crankset, and get bog standard training wheels. Moving up to an Allez Expert (with Ultegra), gets you a full groupset with carbon SL-K crank and ‘Fulcrum’ wheels at a competitive price.

I’d love to ride these Treks back to back with my Allez.

I am happy to see Trek jump into the “high end” aluminum market. I have owned & loved several iterations of CAAD’s. I have also read good things about Specialized redesigned Allez frames. I am now hearing of a redesigned CAAD12(?) to be released later this Summer…(anyone else hearing any details?) I would have liked to have seen a disc version from Trek… (Spec as well.) I believe that road disc offerings from every manufacturer will increase exponentially once the pro’s are riding them. I wanted my next road bike purchase to have discs so that I can look for second set of wheels that will be future proof…(thru-axles coming next?) I had my eye this year’s CAAD10 Rival disc, hoping the boys at Cannondale offer an Ultegra disc spec on the CAAD12 later this year. 🙂

Just ordered my alr 6 today! I work at a trek dealer, and I have to say H2 is usually great for 99% of our customers, and they usually have the stem flipped up. For the 1% of people that actually want that huge bar drop, you can always size down and make it look super pro with a longer stem! Nothing wrong with that!

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Trek 1000: Unveiling The Ultimate Road Bike Experience

October 25, 2023

‍ Key Takeaways

• The Trek 1000 road bike harmoniously blends vintage aesthetics with modern-day functionality, perfect for nostalgic touring.
• Offering a lightweight aluminum frame and reliable components, it stands as a top pick among affordable yet high-performance bikes.
• As a testament to Trek's renowned quality, the Trek 1000 provides a seamless balance of durability, comfort, and efficient road cycling experience.

‍ Trek stands out as a top bike manufacturer because of the quality and comfort. And because of this, one of the top road bikes worth trying is the Trek 1000.

The Trek 1000 road bike combines vintage charm with contemporary functionality. Designed for touring, its lightweight aluminum frame ensures nimble handling, while reliable components promise durability. It’s also packed with modern features and a durable aluminum frame for longevity.

After rigorously testing the Trek 1000 road bike on various terrains and conditions, we've compiled an in-depth review based on our first-hand experience. Our team, with years of expertise in cycling and gear evaluation, offers an authoritative insight into this iconic bike's performance, aesthetics, and value.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

‍ Trek 1000 Road Bike Overview

The Trek 1000 road bike, a classic in the world of vintage bikes, offers a delightful blend of past aesthetics with present-day functionality. For those passionate about taking a journey down memory lane or wanting to embark on a touring adventure, the Trek 1000 serves as a trusted companion.

Many bike enthusiasts looking for the ideal touring bike are immediately drawn to the Trek 1000. Its design considers the long-distance traveler, ensuring smooth, efficient, and reliable rides. Its frame geometry and components are conducive to both leisurely jaunts through the countryside and more rigorous multi-day journeys.

The Trek 1000 isn’t just any road bike; it truly captures the essence of what makes a vintage bike so special. Every curve, weld, and detail echoes an era where craftsmanship and bike design went hand in hand.

In today’s market flooded with high-end, costly models, the Trek 1000 stands out as one of the more affordable options, making it a top pick among low-cost bikes. However, don't let the price tag fool you. This bike’s affordability doesn’t compromise its quality. It's constructed with the care that one would expect from the Trek brand, ensuring durability and performance.

The Birth Of Trek 1000

The Trek 1000 was first introduced in the 1980s but gained popularity in the mid-1990s. This road bike's design has evolved over time with continual updates, making it a popular choice for riders seeking a reliable yet affordable option.

With its sleek design and efficient components, the Trek 1000 is a timeless classic in modern bikes.

Why You Should Consider The Trek 1000

There are numerous reasons why the Trek 1000 is a great bike for riders of all levels. One of the main contributing factors is its 7005 series aluminum frame, which keeps the weight low at just over 1.5kg for the frame only.

This lightweight aspect allows for both speedy rides and easier handling on the road. In addition, the Trek 1000 comes equipped with a responsive and efficient drivetrain, ensuring smooth shifting and consistent speed management.

Its lightweight and durable wheels offer stability while minimizing the bike's overall weight, making climbs and descents more enjoyable. Moreover, the Trek 1000's comfortable and adjustable geometry ensures a great fit for a variety of riders.

It also has Bontrager Ergo handlebars, which contribute to a comfy grip and riding position. This bike provides good components such as Shimano Sora Triple derailleurs, giving riders access to a mid-range configuration without the high price tag of high-end bikes like the Trek Domane.

Technical Specifications Of Trek 1000

Frame and construction.

The Trek 1000 road bike features an Alpha SL Aluminum frame that ensures a balance between lightweight and durability. The frame provides a responsive and efficient ride, which is essential for road bikes.

The bike also comes with a Bontrager-approved carbon fork to help absorb road vibrations, thus offering a more comfortable ride. The aluminum frame and carbon fork construction make it a great choice for various terrains and long rides.

Drivetrain And Gearing

The Trek 1000's drivetrain features Shimano Sora components, ensuring smooth shifting and a wide range of gears for tackling different riding conditions.

The bike's Shimano Sora Triple front derailleur and the Shimano Sora STI Dual Control Brake Levers provide a responsive and reliable gear shifting system. This combination ensures good bike performance and enjoyable rides on various terrains.

Brakes And Safety

Safety is critical when riding at fast speeds, and the Trek 1000 road bike's braking system doesn't disappoint. The bike comes with Shimano Sora STI Dual Control brake levers that provide precise braking control while ensuring smooth gear shifts.

This makes the bike suitable for beginners and experienced riders alike when riding or cycling in various conditions.

Tires And Wheels

The Trek 1000 road bike is equipped with durable tires and wheels designed for road cycling. The bike features Bontrager tires that offer excellent rolling resistance and grip for fast speeds and consistent performance.

On the other hand, the wheels ensure stability and comfort during long rides, as they're designed to handle the demands of road biking. These components make the Trek 1000 road bike a dependable option for riders seeking high-speed performance and reliable handling.

The Ultimate Road Bike Experience

Unmatched comfort.

The Trek 1000 road bike is designed to provide riders with maximum comfort. The lightweight aluminum frame ensures that it's easy to handle and maneuver, while the supportive saddle and well-designed handlebars enable a comfortable position for longer rides.

• Aluminum Frame: Lightweight and durable, perfect for efficient riding
• Handlebars: Drop handlebars that provide great grip and control
• Saddle: Supportive and designed for long rides

Cycling on the Trek 1000, you might find yourself momentarily transported to the Tour de France. Its design, reminiscent of an old bike, captures the essence of iconic races of yore.

Even if you're just cruising around your neighborhood, the bike exudes a competitive spirit that makes you feel as if you're on the grand stages of the world's most famous cycling race.

Delivering Speed

When it comes to speed, the Trek 1000 road bike does not disappoint. The skinny tires and 14-speed configuration make for a nimble and fast ride.

Furthermore, the carbon fiber components add to the bike's overall lightweight, allowing riders to pick up speed and easily tackle various terrains.

The Trek 1000's vacuum tires, paired with the ability to maintain higher tire pressure, set it apart from many bikes. This combination ensures smoother rides, even on challenging terrains, offering both comfort and speed.

The higher tire pressure increases efficiency and gives the rider a significant performance advantage, especially when aiming to win races or outpace fellow cyclists.

Enhancing Endurance

For riders looking to push their limits and improve endurance, the Trek 1000 road bike is a fantastic option. In addition to its lightweight, its responsive handling makes tackling long distances and challenging rides more enjoyable.

This provides a road bike experience allowing riders to push their boundaries confidently.

• Responsive Handling: Smooth and swift, making navigating different types of terrain easier
• Wide Gear Range: The 14-speed configuration gives riders more options when tackling hills and varying gradients
• Light Weight: The aluminum frame and carbon fiber components make the Trek 1000 easier for riders to maintain their pace and power over long distances

Riding the Trek 1000 requires and fosters consistent rational thinking. Its shifting style and the Bontrager sport components demand an engaged rider who is constantly attuned to the bike's responses and the road's demands.

Investing In Trek 1000

Price and value.

Investing in a Trek 1000 road bike is wise for those seeking a versatile and affordable option. This popular road bike offers great value for money, with many riders enjoying its performance and durability.

While the Trek 1000 used to sell for under $1000, new additions have slightly increased the price. However, the Trek 1000 remains affordable compared to many modern bikes.

When it comes to value, the Trek 1000 delivers. The aluminum frame ensures longevity, while the lightweight and quality components provide an enjoyable cycling experience. Cyclists seeking a good road bike without breaking the bank will find the Trek 1000 a great choice.

Maintenance And Durability

Many riders prefer road bikes that require minimal maintenance and can withstand the rigors of daily use. The Trek 1000 is one such bike known for its durability.

With its sturdy aluminum frame, resilient components, and quality construction, the Trek 1000 appeals to cyclists who demand a combination of longevity and performance.

Maintaining the Trek 1000 is relatively simple. We recommend regular upkeep on the bike, such as checking tire pressure, lubricating the chain, and making minor adjustments to the gears as needed.

By performing these routine maintenance tasks, cyclists can ensure the Trek 1000 remains in optimal condition for miles of riding enjoyment. In the long run, the Trek 1000 offers an excellent balance between low-cost investment and consistent performance.

Is The Trek 1000 Road Bike Worth Buying?

The Trek 1000 road bike is definitely worth considering for multiple reasons. First and foremost, Trek is a renowned brand with a reputation for producing high-quality, durable bicycles.

This entry-level road bike offers a great balance between price and performance. Its lightweight aluminum frame provides a smooth ride and is ideal for both beginners and more experienced riders looking for a reliable road bike.

The components, including the gear shifting mechanism and brakes, are consistent and dependable. Additionally, the ergonomic design ensures comfortable long rides. Finally, the value for money is impressive.

It offers features and performance often found in more expensive models. In conclusion, if you're seeking a dependable, well-designed, and cost-effective road bike, the Trek 1000 is a commendable choice.

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This article may contain affiliate links where we earn a commission from qualifying purchases. The images and content on this page may be created by, or with the assistance of, artificial intelligence, and should be used for entertainment and informational purposes only.

About THE AUTHOR

Danny Lawson

Mountain biking is more than just a hobby for me - it's a way of life. I love the challenge and excitement that comes with it, and I'm always pushing myself to go faster and ride harder. Some people might think that mountain biking is dangerous, but I see it as the only way to live.

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What kind of rider are you?  Choose between Madone for aerodynamic speed, Emonda for conquering hills, Domane for all-day comfort, or Checkpoint for on and off-road versatility.  All backed by Trek's lifetime warranty. 

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Trek 1.1 review

The Trek 1.1 is Trek's bottom rung road bike, but that doesn't mean budget ride quality

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The Trek 1.1 has got plenty of great features to like. It's a comfortable alloy frame with a carbon fork and it's versatile thanks to the pannier mounts. If you can look past the weight and the iffy brakes this would be a great bike for new riders or those wanting to start commuting to the office.

Comfortable ride

Carbon fork

Tubeless ready wheels

Pannier rack/mudguard compatible

Brakes could be better

You can trust Cycling Weekly. Our team of experts put in hard miles testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

At £625, the Trek 1.1, alongside the Trek Lexa 2, occupies the lowest level of Trek’s bike roster. But, for its diminutive status, it delivers a tidy ride that’d definitely be befitting a beginner rider.

Buy now: Trek 1.1 at Evans Cycles for £625

Despite occupying the lower rungs of Trek’s hierarchy, the 1.1 is still given that distinctively Trek sloping top tube boasting Trek’s H2 fit system, a feature that the brand believes to be the optimum on bike position.

>>> Best cheap bikes under £1000: bikes from £260 ridden and rated

According to the company, it’s a feature that travels right to the top, with Trek-Segafredo riders also using the same fit system to get their race machines right.

In real life, it’s certainly not uncomfortable, and the soft bend in the arms is comfortable enough for extended rides at least, and the size 56cm fit my 5,11 frame comfortably.

The frame itself is made from 100 series Alpha Aluminium, which happily brings a balance between comfort and weight. Meanwhile, the carbon fork helps eliminate road buzz and keep the weight down as much as possible.

Other neat touches include the mounts for pannier racks as well as mudguard compatibility, which definitely helps make this a truly versatile machine, whether you want to go far or just commute to the office.

Specification

As an entry-level bike, you’re naturally looking at some entry level components, and the Trek 1.1 doesn’t come flashing the sportiest of gear, but happily, it all functions well.

The 1.1’s drivechain is a bit of a mish mash of parts. Shimano Claris takes care of shifting, with its Claris range making up the shifters as well as both front and rear derailleurs. The crankset and cassette meanwhile are outsourced to Vuelta Corsa and Sunrace respectively. No doubt to keep costs down.

The Claris shifting performed well, as you’d expect from a low-end groupset from Shimano – a company that traditionally does budget very well. 

>>> Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo groupsets explained

However, the performance of the brakes was less inspiring. They will stop you eventually, but they’re not the most effective. Mix in a grabby, stiff action and they're not the most confident inspiring.

Elsewhere, the Bontrager AT-750 wheels felt bombproof, and they're tubeless ready. The 25mm rubber they’re shod with are also a welcome touch, adding comfort to the ride, although these aren't tubeless ready so you'll have to upgrade if you want to go down that route.

The rest of the finishing kit is made up of Bontrager’s in house parts, all of which did the job well. Up front the Bontrage Race handlebar brings some serious width to the front end, which won't be to everyones preferences, but new riders will enjoy the added comfort.

The ride quality of the Trek 1.1 is on point for its price. The aluminium frame irons out the bumps in the road, while the carbon fork evens out any jarring hand buzz, making for a very comfortable ride.

The upright position definitely helps here, and the wide bars help keep your arms in a comfortable position while holding your shoulders in a sustainable position. Its large looking frame is also  dead stable at speed. it's comforting to ride, at no point feeling jittery or nervous.

Watch: Handlebar height and reach – how to get them right

Of course, such levels of stability can often mean a diminishment in mobility, and the Trek 1.1 is not an agile bike likely to make fast turns or whip around road furniture. At this level though, it’s a sacrifice I’m willing to make for the level of comfort on offer from the bike.

This size and stability does mean that the Trek 1.1 comes with a weight penalty, and at 9.33kg it is a bit of a beast to haul up and over those hills. Helpfully, the compact chainset (50/34 configuration) coupled with the 11-28, 8 speed cassette on the back makes getting up those inclines just that little bit easier.

>>> How to ride faster up short, steep hills (video)

Matching the Trek 1.1 against other major cycling retailers reveals that it’s not too far off the money in terms of its spec.

Giant’s entry level machine, the Contend 2, costs £50 less but comes with the same, Shimano Claris drivechain, and configuration of own brand finishing kit. Although on the Trek you are getting a carbon fork.

Both companies are put in the shade by B’Twin though, which offers its Triban 540 road bike for £650, equipped with a carbon fork and Shimano 105 , a higher end groupset.

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Trek 1000 Road Bike

Frame Material: aluminum Frame Angles: Unspecified Sizes: 43cm, 50cm, 52cm, 54cm, 56cm, 58cm, 60cm, 63cm Colors: Brushed, White/Blue Fork: Trek Rear Shock: Not applicable Brake Levers: Shimano Sora STI Dual Control Handlebar: Bontrager Ergo Stem: aluminum Headset: 1 1/8" threadless Aheadset Front Der: Shimano Sora Triple Crankset: Bontrager Sport, 30/42/52 teeth Rear Der: Shimano Sora GS Pedals: aluminum cage w/clips & straps Tires: 700 x 25c Bontrager Select

• USER REVIEWS

Comfortable seat. Comfortable handlebar position, nice retro styling. Easy to pedal. Great commuter bicycle. My last bike was a Walmart piece of junk bike and this bike is leaps and bounds way better. Responsive and effective brakes. Bakersfield Pro Concrete Pumping

Can't find any.

The frame is superb! Geometry are great, solid, no flexing, fits perfect, rather light weight. I am highly satisfied. Carlsbad Concrete And Masonry

None so far.

This was my brother's first training bike when he began racing. It was handed off to me and I used it as a commuter class in Syracuse NY, commuting every day of the winter, snow and all. The chain regularly dripped rust when it thawed inside my apartment despite my best efforts to keep it lubed. Headset bearings totally rusted out twice and replaced. It then turned into my off road bike with 30mm knobby tires, getting battered over rough roads in Colorado like Engineer pass. This bike can handle anything and I love it. Original derailers, shifters, and brakes are still working like a charm and I can't remember the last time I adjusted anything! Orange paint scheme is a classic.

Not going to win any bike races as it's a cheaper aluminum frame.

Not a light weight performance bike, but it is a solid bike. I've had mine for over 25 years and who knows how many miles. I've taken it out of town on centuries and ridden the mountains with it. It doesn't have the original components anymore having been upgraded about 20 years ago from Sun Tour to Shimano RSX. I'm on my 4th saddle and probably my 3rd set of wheels. The frame is still rolling though. I would rate it and the Specialized Allez as the 2 best bikes for those starting out in road cycling.

The components are not top of the line or even close and the bike is heavy. You're not going to be doing many races on this bike. But I bought this bike for under $400 new so I didn't expect a bike that would be used in the Tour de France.

Great bike. Come to Nairobi and look for Brent Aviation and they can take you to the safari country with your bike for testing. www.brentaviation.co.ke for more details. You will not be disappointed

None that come to mind as compared to others

I am the 3rd owner. Bought after 10 years of use. It's been a year with me and I love it!

Not yet known

It is nice and light! I bought it used but it's lighter than my Cannondale.

I don't like the where the shifters are located. I'd rather have them by the handlebars.

I really like it though and think I will get used to the shifters.

Amazing frameset - strong and durable, still competitive with new tech alu bikes

A little heavy (8.3 kg with Easton EC90 cockpit, Quattros and 6800 Ultegra)

(I am Polish so sorry for my mistakes) I had many carbon bikes but i still got this one since 2007. In 2009 i equipped this frame with 7700 Dura Ace groupset and mavic wheels. Right now i still ride this bike but with Fulcrum Quattro LG and 6800 Ultegra. The geometry is amazing. Frame is stiff so still the bike is competitive in sprints in local races. The ride quality is OK, but mostly due to my upgrades (Easton EC90 handlebar, steam and seatpost and 25mm tires on wide rims) After all this years i decided to sell all other (newer and lighter) carbon road bikes, because this is The ONE :D Tottaly worth its price back then.

First Road Bike, bought in 2005. Still going strong, 2014... Just routine maintenance. Left a review here years ago.

Wheelset, changed out to supergo years ago and been fine ever since. Great first road bike.

I believe the model now is a Trek 1.1...Great buy, reliable. No its not carbon, hence you don't have to baby it...

frame and geometry are great, solid, no flexing, fits perfect, rather light weight. The group on it was Sora Tiegra. I took it all off and put Shimano 105 group, 9 speed, triple, Campanolo Record chain, upgraded the rims to Rigida racing 2000, with 105 hubs, Union - BMW spokes. The bike rides like a dream. I like riding it better than my Carbon Trek 5200, but the 5200 has Campanolo Chorus Gruppo, which is flawless- like a Mercedes compared to the 105, which is like a sewing machine. This is an excellent frame and fork, the the Crane Creek headset on mine is outstanding

Not as light as carbon. Low cost of this bike makes it unlikely to get high end components. Trek seems to provide better than average frames and lower than average (for the money) components, so more than likely you will want to upgrade as much as possible.

Great bike for the money. Solid, dependable, great to ride long distances, I ride 50 miles each Sunday.

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Best aluminium road bikes 2024 — affordable alternatives to carbon fibre (and the ride quality is better than ever)

This article contains links to retailers. Purchases made after clicking on those links may help support road.cc by earning us a commission but all of our reviews are fully independent. Find out more about road.cc buyer's guides.

Aluminium stands out as an ideal material for road bikes due to its cost-effectiveness, lightweight nature, and its potential to be crafted into high-performance machines in the hands of skilled makers. While carbon fibre road bikes dominate the pro peloton, aluminium bikes are increasingly popular amongst riders seeking a more affordable bike without compromising too much (or arguably anything at all) on performance.

• Buy now for £1599 from Cycle Revolution
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• Buy now for £875 from Boardman bikes

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• Buy now for £1274 from Cycle Store

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• Buy now for £3665 from Mason Cycles

In the past, aluminium road bikes were notorious for their harsher ride quality, and became unpopular with some cyclists  who demanded a smoother experience; however, this perception has faded over time as the construction methods have improved drastically. The frames are designed so that just the right amount of metal is strategically placed to maintain frame rigidity without causing discomfort.

The technological breakthrough of hydroforming, where aluminium tubes are shaped under immense pressure, played a crucial role in the renaissance of aluminium in the last decade. Modern aluminium road bikes not only benefit from design advancements, but also offer a smoother ride by accommodating fatter tyres. Opting for the widest tyres helps mitigate the harshness often associated with aluminium bikes.

It’s a long time since the rider of an aluminium bike won the Tour de France, with Marco Pantani the last to bag a yellow jersey riding alloy when he propelled his Bianchi Mega Pro XL to success. These days it’s all about carbon fibre in the professional racing circuit, but despite its dominance, aluminium refuses to disappear. Away from the pro ranks, it is highly regarded and a very good material to make a bicycle from.

Aluminium is enjoying a resurgence of interest at the moment. While traditionally an amateur rider might ride a carbon fibre frame as their 'best' bike and purchase a cheaper alloy one for riding in winter and muckier conditions, some manufacturers have been pushing the material so their bikes are more than worthy of being the best bike in your stable. Smart consumers realise that you get a lot of performance and equipment, and in terms of value for money, aluminium is tough to beat.

With aluminium alive and kicking, here are some of the best aluminium road bikes currently available. If you are looking beyond alloy, you can of course check out our guide to the best road bikes that covers a wide range of frame materials and price points. If you want to narrow your search down to budget options, head over to our guide to the best road bikes under £1,000 . 

The best aluminium road bikes: our top picks

Cannondale CAAD13 Disc 105

The Cannondale CAAD13 is the latest aluminium road bike from the company that was in the vanguard of developing and popularising aluminium right through the 1980s and '90s, The previous CAAD12, and the CAAD10 before it, were highly regarded aluminium frames, light and stiff enough for racing and comfortable enough for the long jaunt, and did a lot to promote the virtue of aluminium frames over more expensive carbon rivals. 

With the CAAD13 Cannondale hasn't focused on shedding grams, but on ride quality, and the CAAD13 weighs about the same as a CAAD12. Tester Mat says, "Drag has been reduced, versatility has increased and the ride is more comfortable than ever. This is a really impressive revamp and an excellent alternative to carbon." He concludes that the CAAD13 is an "aero-tuned aluminium road bike that proves carbon isn't the only option for a smooth ride". 

The CAAD13 range is now only available with disc brakes accommodating 30mm rubber, starting with the Shimano 105 model above with an RRP of £2,250 and topping out with SRAM Rival for £3,400. 

Merida Speeder 20D

 Merida's Speeder 20D bike is a UK-specific frame and model that's an ideal everyday commuting or leisure bike. Looking at the market as a whole, the Merida Speeder 20D offers very good value. It's a bit of a cliché, but you get a lot of bike for your money here.

The Speeder 20D's components are a real mix 'n' match featuring a Shimano TY301 triple chainset with a wide range of gears to cope with just about any situation that's likely to come your way, which is from the 'lifestyle' Tourney groupset, Tourney front derailleur, Acera rear derailleur, and Sunrace cassette and chain. The hydraulic brakes are Power DS-100HT and the shifters are from Microsoft. It's a real mishmash but it all works together really well. 

The wheels are made up of Merida's own Comp TK aluminium rims and Kenda Kwik Roller Sport Tyres in a 32mm width. Yes, the Speeder 20D is a little heavy but you get hydraulic disc brakes, a wide spread of gears at your fingertips, and plenty of practicality courtesy of mudguard and rack mounts. For this kind of money, it's a very good buy.

Vitus Razor Disc Claris

If you're looking to get into road riding and want a bike that can grow with you in terms of ability and performance, then the Vitus Razor is a great buy. The reason for this is the high quality of the frameset, which is ready to be upgraded as and when you feel the need. Tester Stu was impressed with the ride quality of the frameset, writing, "The frame and fork feel as though they could hold their own on a better-specced bike at twice the price – if not three times". 

The geometry of the Razor Disc offers a more relaxed feel than a race bike without compromising on agility. The front end maintains a reasonably aggressive stance for precise steering on technical downhills, and the bike's wheelbase just exceeds a metre, providing nimbleness while accommodating full-length mudguards. The taller head tube ensures a less aggressive riding position, enhancing comfort during longer rides.

At this price, it's no surprise to see cable-operated discs rather than hydraulic units. But the Tektro MD-C310 callipers perform well enough. The Razor is available in a few build options, with this Shimano Claris model being the cheapest at £699.99, and also available with rim brakes. 

Boardman SLR 8.8

Boardman's SLR 8.8 rides really well, offering a comfortable, no-nonsense frame and fork with well-balanced handling to suit beginners or those who want to exploit its all-weather capabilities with the ability to take full mudguards and a rear rack.

While many mid to top-end aluminium alloy frames show excellent ride qualities thanks to clever design and development of the tubing, some of the cheapest and most basic can still feel a little unforgiving in their feedback and be a bit harsh on certain surfaces. However, with things like triple butting and slender tube profiles where it matters, the SLR 8.8 gives a great ride feel. 

As expected on a bike of this price, the finishing kit is own branded and basic but there's nothing wrong with that. Tester Stu said, "The standard wheels and tyres are comfortable, as is the rest of the finishing kit." The wheels aren't off the shelf either but they are tubeless-ready ready which is great. 

The SLR 8.8 primarily uses a Shimano Tiagra groupset, which is based around a 10-speed system. You get the STi levers, front mech and rear mech, plus a Shimano HG500 cassette, but then things deviate a little. There is an FSA Vero Compact chainset, which requires an old school square taper bottom bracket, driven by a KMC chain and for the brakes, we switch over to Tektro and its MD-C511 mechanically operated, flat mount disc brake callipers and 160mm rotors.

Tifosi Rostra Disc Tiagra

The Tifosi Rostra Disc Hydraulic Tiagra fills the gap between the road bike and gravel bike market with tester Stu finding it a pleasing bike to ride, and versatile enough to take on a range of surfaces meaning it isn't just limited to the road. 

Coming with a set of knobbly tyres fitted, it's easy to look at our test model and think that the Rostra is a gravel bike, but it's not. The geometry is very much road-inspired and has a maximum tyre clearance of 35mm. 

The Rostra is available in a couple of builds and as a frameset only, but this one is based around the majority of a hydraulic Shimano Tiagra groupset. The gearing is road-centric with a 50/34T FSA Omega MX chainset and a 10-speed 11-34T cassette. 

Apart from the Selle Italia Model X saddle, which is pleasant enough, the rest of the finish kit is Tifosi branded. The Vision Team 30 wheels aren't light but they are durable, and that's what you want on a versatile bike like this. They are tubeless ready too, should you want to go down that route.

Specialized Allez Sport

The Allez was the first performance road bike created by Specialized in 1981, and back then it was a steel race bike, with the first alloy version seen in 1994. With the lack of those rim-braked models, the Allez range doesn't look quite as 'entry-level' as it once did, but on a model-to-model basis they are still well priced against the opposition and it is still as upgradeable as previous versions, which makes it the ideal bike for the beginner looking to progress. 

The latest version of Specialized's Allez Sport is a lot of fun to ride thanks to geometry that flatters your skills and an aluminium alloy frame that hasn't even heard of the word harsh. There's little to complain about in terms of comfort, either. Specialized has always delivered when it comes to its alumininum frames, and this one is no different. Geometry-wise, the Allez is available in a total of seven sizes which equates to effective top tube lengths of 493mm up to 586mm, a better spread than some brands offer.

This Sport model comes with a Tiagra 10-speed mechanical groupset, albeit with a Praxis Alba chainset and Sunrace cassette. Shifting-wise, this mix of kit has no issues in terms of performance, and you get a decent spread of ratios with 50/34-tooth chainrings and an 11-32 cassette.

The R2 sits alongside the R1 in Kinesis' range. The two bikes use essentially the same frame but the R1 is 1x (it's designed for bikes with single chainrings) while the new R2 is for double chainsets.

The Kinesis R2 is a no-nonsense aluminium road bike that'll take fairly large tyres for grip and comfort and comes with eyelets for fitting mudguards and a rack, so it's a practical choice as an all-rounder for typical UK conditions. It's designed to be functional and easy to live with, and you'll appreciate that in the long term. 

You can buy the R2 as a frameset (£650, including fork, headset, seat clamp, front and rear thru-axles, and cable guides) or as this complete bike built up with a Shimano Tiagra groupset for £1,680.  The stem, handlebar and seatpost are Kinesis' own, all made from 6061 alloy and doing their jobs just fine. 

Trek Émonda ALR 5

The Trek Emonda ALR 5 uses the latest aluminium alloy Emonda frameset, with aero tweaks and a geometry that matches other high-end performance bikes in Trek’s line-up. It showcases the fact that this material still has a place on the racing scene, offering up the sort of stiffness and ride comfort found with carbon, although this build is far from light.

Trek says that this third-generation Émonda ALR is both lightweight – our ALR 5 in a 56cm size tipped the scales at 9.08kg – and strong. The ride quality and geometry of the ALR 5 makes it a bike I'd highly recommend if you want to race but don't have a massive budget, or you just want a bike you can ride fast without getting beaten up, even on long rides. It's priced in line with key competition like the CAAD13 and is cheaper than the Allez Sprint Comp by quite a long way. 

> Specialized Allez Sprint vs Trek Emonda ALR — which aluminium race bike will win this epic showdown?

This model has a mechanical Shimano 105 groupset, Trek's in-house component and accessories brand, Bontrager, supplies all of the finishing kit found on the ALR, and a tyre clearance of up to 28mm. 

Specialized Allez Sprint Comp

The original Allez Sprint was designed as a bike for racing the short and twisty courses of the town centre criterium. The geometry made the original very nimble and an absolute blast to ride, but the handling could, for some, be a little nervous. The ride on this new version has been tamed just a little, with geometry identical to that of the Tarmac SL7, and this translates to a bike that is perfectly suited to faster road rides.

This Specialized Allez Sprint Comp is a very fast aluminium road bike that handles brilliantly. The frame is stiff enough to cope with sprints, but it won't beat you up on a long ride. The Allez Sprint has disc brakes on an aluminium frame made with what Specialized calls the D'Alusio SmartWeld process. This uses hydroforming at the joints to increase strength and stiffness so the tube spans can be lighter.

The Allez Sprint also boasts fully hidden cable routing which can, with a decent routing job, create a very clean-looking bike. Specialized has also been sensible and given it a threaded bottom bracket rather than press-fit, for easier servicing and, hopefully, a quieter life.

This £2,600 model gets a Shimano 105 groupset with DT Swiss R470 wheels and a Body Geometry Power Sport saddle.

Ribble Endurance AL e Enthusiast Shimano 105

If you are looking for an e-bike that'll give you the feeling of riding a standard road bike with just the subtlest of assistance, then the Ribble Endurance AL e Enthusiast is a very good choice. it carries over all of the fun, versatility and easy-to-live-with attributes of the AL, but with the added va va voom of a motor. Even with the addition of the hub motor, internal wiring, battery and charging point, the geometry has stayed the same.

The Mahle Ebikemotion X35+ gives you a 40Nm boost from the 250 watt-hour battery/motor combination when using full power, which on any climb where you are going slow enough for it to kick in makes a real difference. Tester Stu writes, "What I like most about the X35+ is the smoothness of its delivery. When you aren't using it there is no noticeable resistance from the motor, and as the speed drops below 25kph it just gives you a gentle nudge as if you've got a rather nice tailwind." 

Ribble's Bikebuilder means you can, within reason, build your AL e up however you like, starting at £1,999. 

Mason Definition Chorus

Mason Cycles exploded on to the scene in 2015 with two eagerly-awaited bikes, the aluminium Definition and the steel-framed Resolution. Former Kinesis UK designer Dom Mason didn't disappoint. The original Definition was so good we struggled to get into words just how a handful of alloy sticks welded together can leave you feeling so excited.

The Mason Definition Chorus is the definitive all-round road bike, offering a great ride quality and a geometry that works both at speed and when cruising along. This is a jack of all trades that manages to be a master of them all. The build quality and finish are flawless too. Tester Stu writes, "Phenomenal – that's the only word I can really think of to describe the Definition as a package. Just looking at the build quality and impeccable paint finish, I could easily forgive the Mason if it rode like a garden gate. Thankfully though, it doesn't. The ride is sublime."

The Definition is available in eight sizes - the smallest frame is 48cm, and the largest is a 62cm. The Definition lineup is available in a range of builds, with SRAM, Shimano and Campagnolo offering both electronic and mechanical shifting, and even 1x in the case of Campag's Ekar. There is also a 'rolling chassis' option including frameset and wheels, plus a frameset-only option.

How to choose from the best aluminium road bikes

What are the benefits of aluminium bikes.

Aluminium stands out as an ideal material for road bikes due to its cost-effectiveness, lightweight nature, and its potential to be crafted into high-performance machines. 

Aluminium is a more cost-effective material compared to carbon fibre, which makes aluminium bikes a great option for riders on a budget, or those looking for a high-performance bike without the premium price tag. Aluminium road bikes are also a great choice as an entry-level road bike, as new cyclists can access high-quality bikes that offer a balance of performance and affordability.

Aluminium frames are also durable, corrosion-resistant and versatile.

What are the disadvantages of aluminium bike frames?

While aluminium has lightweight properties, carbon fibre frames may be more suitable for riders who require ultra-light frames. Additionally, aluminium frames are typically welded which can be a disadvantage from an aesthetic point of view. 

Aluminium has also gained a bit of a reputation for harsh ride quality but this perception has evolved with designers strategically placing just the right amount of metal to maintain frame rigidity without causing discomfort. While aluminium bike frames may not offer the same level of compliance as carbon road bikes, there have been notable improvements in recent designs.

Is a carbon or aluminium bike better?

Both carbon and aluminium bikes can provide an excellent riding experience, so it depends on your riding preferences, intended use and budget. 

Carbon fibre is lighter than aluminium, which can contribute to a lighter overall bike weight. This is advantageous in situations where weight is a critical factor, such as hill climbing or racing. Carbon frames give designers more flexibility and they can be moulded into more aerodynamic shapes, making them a preferred choice for those focused on maximising speed and efficiency, especially in racing.

Aluminium bikes are generally more affordable than carbon fibre bikes, and can offer a good balance of performance and cost. Aluminium is also known for its durability and resistance to corrosion so is less prone to damage from external elements.

How are modern aluminium bikes different?

Today's alloy bikes maintain exceptional stiffness, but crucially, advancements in materials, frame design, and construction techniques have introduced compliant ride quality. The shaping of tubes and the ability to vary wall thickness, a process known as 'butting,' play pivotal roles. There are three standard types of butting: single-butted, double-butted and triple-butted. 

Nowadays, aluminium frames often have a tube wall thickness twice the diameter of comparable steel frames. With larger tube diameters and a tempering process that includes magnesium and silicon, these frames boast high tensile strength, resulting in toughness and lightness.

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Emily is our track and road racing specialist, having represented Great Britain at the World and European Track Championships. With a National Title up her sleeve, Emily has just completed her Master’s in Sports Psychology at Loughborough University where she raced for Elite Development Team, Loughborough Lightning.

Emily is our go-to for all things training and when not riding or racing bikes, you can find her online shopping or booking flights…the rest of the office is now considering painting their nails to see if that’s the secret to going fast…

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46 comments.

aluminium frames often have a tube wall thickness twice the diameter of comparable steel frames

Some editing required! I believe the main point, though. I used to think that aluminium frames would shake you to bits, and my own frames are all steel and titanium. However, I have been on even cheap alu frames and found them to be perfectly OK and would be quite happy to buy one now.

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Ms Tillett, Your article betrays your complete ignorance on the topic of bicycle frame materials and their contributions to ride quality. In the physical universe we inhabit, rigid double triangle bicycle frames do not flex at all in the vertical plane during normal usage. This has been studied extensively and is well-known to science and the industry for 30+ years now. https://www.cyclingabout.com/why-impossible-steel-frames-more-comfortabl... ...among many other sources, written by individuals with at least a basic grounding on the topic. It would be better if you stopped spreading old-wives' tales under the guise of journalism.

Is that how you speak to people?

Obviously, it is -- when they publish articles full of long-since disproven fake news.

The article you've linked to only takes vertical stiffness into consideration. There are also other factors within the frame material and construction that affect how a bicycle rides and feels, such as BB & head tube deflection. 

Here's an article on the same site by the same author, from which you can learn about how frame material makes a difference to frame flex. 

https://www.cyclingabout.com/why-frame-stiffness-is-critical-in-understa...  

You're welcome. 

That article involves lateral stiffness, which has nothing to do with ride comfort.

Rigid bicycle ride comfort is determined almost completely by the following factors, in roughly this order: tire pressure, seat post stiffness, fork stiffness in the vertical plane, handle bar stiffness, and saddle construction.

Again, this has been repeatedly proven over decades, and such is not complicated.  Rigid double-triangle frames are two orders of magnitude stiffer in the vertical plane than all of the components which are attached to them.  And since the rider does not touch the frame, and since all of those components will deflect to failure before the frame even begins to deflect, the frame and its material cannot be a factor in ride quality.

You are welcome to continue believing that the Sun orbits the Earth -- so to speak -- if you like, but don't pretend that science has not long-since disproven your old wives' tales and don't spread them around. 

Is this a bot account?

The article does not use a single instance of the word "lateral" - it mentions "feel" 24 times and "stiffness" 61 times. Read the article and you'll see.

No Mark, this is not a bot account -- just someone much better versed on the topic than you are.

"And finally, we can look at the vertical stiffness of a frame, which I’ve previously discussed in this article about frame comfort." -- the article you cited

Also, take a gander at the picture of the test rig in that article -- which bends the frame laterally.

Maybe if you got off your high horse for a moment, and actually got on some bikes from different frame materials, you'd see for yourselve that there's (way) more nuance to all of this. I own a few nineties mountain bikes, which are pretty similar exept for their frame material and they way they are built. My titanium one feels vastly different from the simple aluminium one, which has plain gauge, oversized tubes. That alu bike rides very harsh. The higher end Cannondale on the other end doesn't have that same harshness. My steel one has a feeling somewhere in between the titanium and the harsh alu one. If you have the chance, try a wooden framed bike, as they have a very nice dampening effect other than all other materials.

Theory is nice and important, but actuall results always trump theory.

I'm not convinced that frame materials make much difference compared to components such as tyres that drastically change the ride feel just by altering the pressure. However lots of riders claim that the frame does have a big part to play and I wonder if that's just confirmation bias.

A lot of the talk about frames will use terms such as harshness, but can we put a number to the "harshness" value that can be measured? Is it to do with vertical/lateral stiffness or is it to do with which vibrations are dampened? Until we can assign numbers to the harshness, it seems a bit undefined.

All materials have their own characteristics, like how well it dampens vibrations. The oversized tubes of the typical aluminium frame play a role there too.

Even though I don't have those numbers at hand, I'm pretty sure it can be (and has been) measured.

I don't doubt that different materials do affect properties of the frame e.g. aluminium will be made stiff enough to not bend in normal use as it will fail quickly due to metal fatigue i.e. it has no endurance limit, whereas steel does have an endurance limit and can be utilised so that some bending can occur without weakening it. Those properties usually translate to different figures for vertical/horizontal compliance which can indeed be measured, but those figures are far smaller than the compliance associated with tyres/seatposts/stems. This implies to me that the frame has a very minor role in compliance, though the shape and design of it has a big impact on handling.

Quote: A lot of the talk about frames will use terms such as harshness, but can we put a number to the "harshness" value that can be measured? Is it to do with vertical/lateral stiffness or is it to do with which vibrations are dampened? Until we can assign numbers to the harshness, it seems a bit undefined.

Yes, we can -- and have -- put numbers on frame "harshness".  We do that by measuring the force required to deflect the frame vertically -- since this is how energy from surface imperfections is transmitted to the rider's body.

And those numbers prove -- beyond a shadow of a doubt -- that rigid bicycle frames do not deflect at all vertically, when used as a bicycle.  If you used one, say, as a truss to support a bridge, it would deflect.  But during normal usage -- supported by pneumatic tires, on spoked wheels, riden by human holding a handlebar, etc -- rigid bicycle frames do not deflect in the vertical plane, and therefore make no contribution to "harshness".  Ride quality is, as I already explained, determined entiirely by tire pressure and attached componentry.

This issue has been studied for several decades, and the answer should not be news to you, and certainly should not be unknown to the writers and editors of road.cc ( although admittedly, the latter group has a financial motivation to continue spreading the old wives' tale that expensive frame materials affect comfort ).

Vertical deflection is not the full story, however. Noise dampening of the system is an important quality of the materials involved.

There is no definitive measure of that yet that I'm aware of and this contributes greatly to the feel and what's labelled as compliance.

The article you linked to even discusses this and mentions that tyres around 40mm and abive tend to mask any dampening properties. Road tyres will still typically result in the dampening properties of the system being apparent.

Life is much better when we can talk to each other respectfully and calmly.

Quote: Vertical deflection is not the full story, however. Noise dampening of the system is an important quality of the materials involved.

With respect to the claim that frame material has an effect on ride comfort, vertical deflection is the full story.  Also, the word you are seeking is "damping", not "dampening" -- the latter means to wet.

Quote: There is no definitive measure of that yet that I'm aware of and this contributes greatly to the feel and what's labelled as compliance.

Yes, we can measure vibration.  There is, however, no point in measuring the vibration of a bicycle frame, since the rider does not touch the frame, and in fact, does not even touch any component that touches the frame.  So, until and unless you can develop headset bearings, bottom bracket bearings, grease for those bearings, saddles, and handlebars that faithfully reproduce the vibrations to which they are exposed, believing that frames effect the vibrations felt by the riders is just so much more superstition.  Hell, the bicycle frame is not even in the path which vibrations travel from the front wheel to the handlebar, so it is completely irrelevant at the front of the bike.

Quote: The article you linked to even discusses this and mentions that tyres around 40mm and abive tend to mask any dampening properties. Road tyres will still typically result in the dampening properties of the system being apparent. Life is much better when we can talk to each other respectfully and calmly.

It's also better when we understand the words, and use the correct ones.  It is "damping".  It is better still when we don't spread around nonsensical superstitions that conflict with all known science.

As I said, the primary driver of rider comfort is tire pressure.  And no one with any clues is still running 19mm tires at 130 psi anywhere but a velodrome, and even those tires were softer in the vetical plane than any commercially-manufactured frame.

Quote: Maybe if you got off your high horse for a moment, and actually got on some bikes from different frame materials, you'd see for yourselve that there's (way) more nuance to all of this.

I own ten bikes presently -- titanium, carbon, aluminum, and steel -- and have owned bicycle frames made from every common material.  I have also built my own frames from several materials.

That said, it wouldn't matter if I had never even touched a bicycle.  What matters is that bicycle frames have been tested, in labratories, by extremely competent people, and the results are always the same -- they simply do not flex vertically before the attached components are subject to force beyond that which they can withstand.

This is not "theory", as you attempted to call it.

Quote: Theory is nice and important, but actuall results always trump theory.

The "actual results" to which you refer could not be more clear.  As previously explained, tests of rigid bicycle frames constantly confirm that they are two orders of magnitude stiffer in the vertical plane than any components which are attached to them.  That "actual result" trumps your wishful thinking.

Read the aforementioned article that explains why your belief is physically impossible, in the physical realm that we inhabit.

You keep talking about frames not 'flexing'.

That's all fine and dandy, but that's not what I was talking about. I was talking about the harshness and the ride feel, which are influenced by the DAMPENING PROPERTIES of the different materials. Those are not the same.

Quote: That's all fine and dandy, but that's not what I was talking about. I was talking about the harshness and the ride feel, which are influenced by the DAMPENING PROPERTIES of the different materials.

Perhaps you have learned a little then -- are you now admitting that rigid bicycle frames do not flex in the vertical plane under normal usage?

As I had to explain to the other individual, the word you are seeking is "damping", not "dampening" -- the latter means to wet.

And, further, such claims about the vibration damping of bicycle frames are just more old wive's tales.  As I previously explained:

The rider does not touch the frame, and in fact, does not even touch any component that touches the frame.  So, until and unless you can develop headset bearings, bottom bracket bearings, grease for those bearings, saddles, and handlebars that faithfully reproduce the vibrations to which they are exposed, believing that frames effect the vibrations felt by the riders is just so much more superstition.  Hell, the bicycle frame is not even in the path which vibrations travel from the front wheel to the handlebar ( which is tire->rim->spoke->hub->blade->crown->steerer->stem->handlebar -- as you ought to know ), so it is completely irrelevant at the front of the bike.

dh700 wrote: As I had to explain to the other individual, the word you are seeking is "damping", not "dampening" -- the latter means to wet.

Perhaps 'damping' is the term of art an engineer would use here--I have no idea, as I am not one. But in everyday usage 'dampening' is just fine. When we say "The rain dampened everyone's spirits", we mean that the rain deadened or reduced the vigor of their spirits, not that it made their spirits wet.

If you're going to be a dick, at least be right.

Quote: Perhaps 'damping' is the term of art an engineer would use here--I have no idea, as I am not one. But in everyday usage 'dampening' is just fine. When we say "The rain dampened everyone's spirits", we mean that the rain deadened or reduced the vigor of their spirits, not that it made their spirits wet.

And are we discussing engineering here, or talking about the weather?

Quote: If you're going to be a dick, at least be right.

Thanks for the tip -- but I am right, so right back atchya.

You claimed that 'dampen' only means 'to wet'. I pointed out that you're wrong, and that 'dampen' has a meaning that is perfectly consistent with its use by other posters.

Furthermore, in the context of the present discussion, the difference between the term of art 'damping' versus the colloquial 'dampening' does not matter at all because it is not the source of any genuine confusion. That is, the two words have precisely the same meaning for the purposes of this discussion, and the only confusion was caused by your own ignorance.

By all means, point out the technical distinction if you like, but don't pretend that it's important, and try not to fuck up the reasoning--"By the way, it doesn't really matter, but 'damping' is the term of art an engineer would use here."

An actually smart person admits when he's wrong and learns from his mistakes. 

Quote:  Hell, the bicycle frame is not even in the path which vibrations travel from the front wheel to the handlebar ( which is tire->rim->spoke->hub->blade->crown->steerer->stem->handlebar -- as you ought to know ), so it is completely irrelevant at the front of the bike.

Actually if you're going to be this pedantic it is tire->rim->nipple->spoke->hub body->hub bearings->spindle->fork (it is all one component that can't be dismantled)->stem->handlebar. But that doesn't mean that components outside that path cannot have an impact on the transmission of vibrations, for example if the headset bearings are loose you can easily feel an increase in vibrations due to the play.

Quote: Actually if you're going to be this pedantic it is tire->rim->nipple->spoke->hub body->hub bearings->spindle->fork (it is all one component that can't be dismantled)->stem->handlebar.

One absolutely can dismantle and reassemble a fork.  Do you think forks are harvested intact from a forest somewhere where they grow in that shape?

And if you wanted to show off your pedantry, you neglected to break down the tire into its component parts, and the bearings as well -- but I'm sure we both know that you were just making a desperate attempt to appear to have a point.

The actual point is that the path which vibrations travel from the front wheel to the handlebar does not include the frame, and that path is isolated from the frame by greased bearings.

Quote: But that doesn't mean that components outside that path cannot have an impact on the transmission of vibrations, for example if the headset bearings are loose you can easily feel an increase in vibrations due to the play.

You are contradicting yourself.  If headset bearings are able to faithfully reproduce vibrations sufficiently for the frame material to impart a noticable effect on rider comfort, then loosening those bearings would reduce their ability to failthfully transmit those virbations to-and-from the frame.

The phenomenon you are describing is not "feeling an increase in virbation", because slop in loose assemblies is not "vibration".  The rider in your example is simply feeling the steerer tube knocking around in the headtube.

Quote: One absolutely can dismantle and reassemble a fork.  Do you think forks are harvested intact from a forest somewhere where they grow in that shape?

For metal forks they could be dismantled and reassembled with the correct tools and information about the original build process and specs although I doubt anyone would bother, for carbon forks dismantling them would destroy them, anything you reassembled from the remains would not be the same fork with the same properties.

Quote: You are contradicting yourself.  If headset bearings are able to faithfully reproduce vibrations sufficiently for the frame material to impart a noticable effect on rider comfort, then loosening those bearings would reduce their ability to failthfully transmit those virbations to-and-from the frame.

I said other components can have an impact on transmission of vibrations, that is the opposite of faithfully reproducing them.

"In the physical universe we inhabit, rigid double triangle bicycle frames do not flex at all during normal usage."

The mythical infinite Young's modulus!

Quote: "In the physical universe we inhabit, rigid double triangle bicycle frames do not flex at all during normal usage."

Complete nonsense.

A bike frame isn't a diagram: the centroids of the members do not all meet uniformly at a single point, like a triangular truss.

Last time I looked at a bicycle frame it was a (pair of) triangles joined to a rhomboid , not a second triangle, and the name 'double triangle frame' is a misnomer. The front section of a bike frame has four sides and can flex at the joints to an extent that the designer can control.

Further, the rear drop-outs are often shaped to allow a certain amount of movement, rather than a perfect triangle, and the seat stays are frequently offset outwards at the foot and shaped in their length to allow deflections.

Further, the seatpost and forks are cantilevers and can and do deflect.

All these offsets and allowances can be tuned by a skilled designer to create a frame that does move in desirable directions to allow some compliance. Or just sit on your bike, put on the brakes, rock to and fro and look at the compliance available. It might surprise you.

Quote: Complete nonsense.

Now investigate the aforementioned test results -- which for four decades have proven that rigid bicycle frames are two orders of magnitude stiffer in the vertical plane than any components attached to them.

And that's QED -- regardless of whether you personally believe that headtubes are flexing and binding on steerers ( which they are not ).

Quote: Further, the seatpost and forks are cantilevers and can and do deflect.

Those are not frames.

Quote: Or just sit on your bike, put on the brakes, rock to and fro and look at the compliance available. It might surprise you.

If you think that's a test of frame deflection, you haven't the necessary clues to contribute to this discussion.

Quote: "In the physical universe we inhabit, rigid double triangle bicycle frames do not flex at all during normal usage." The mythical infinite Young's modulus!

Note the phrase "during normal usage".  Normal usage of a bicycle frame includes attaching to it tires, saddles, handlebars and other components -- all of which will deflect to failure before the frame deflects at all.

Do you understand now?

Zero strain under an applied stress requires either infinite amount of material or infinite modulus. All bike frames deflect under normal usage.

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Results have arrived, carbon fiber vs. aluminium bike frames: what's better.

Carbon fiber and aluminum alloy each have advantages and disadvantages when it comes to bike frame material. Considering comfort, weight, stiffness, durability, cost, and looks, which is better? Which is right for you?

Written by: Bruce Lin

Published on: Jul 11, 2023

Posted in: Tech

The frame is a bicycle's heart and soul. It binds all the components together into a cohesive machine. It is the bike's identity. Without it, a bike is nothing. But what kind of soul should your bike have? Does it have a space-age carbon-fiber frame or an affordable aluminum frame? 

Most bike frames are made of either steel , titanium , aluminum , or carbon fiber . Steel and titanium are the most popular options for custom and handmade bike building. Most modern bikes, however, are made from aluminum or carbon fiber.

How do you choose between aluminum and carbon fiber frames? Let's compare the key differences

Note: There are always exceptions, but this is (very) generally how different bike frame materials are perceived. 

Bike Weight Comparison: Carbon vs. Aluminum

Even if you’re not a “weight weenie,” a lighter bike can improve the riding experience . It’s possible to build very light and capable bikes out of either aluminum or carbon. However, a carbon frame will almost always be lighter than an aluminum equivalent. Few materials can come close to carbon fiber's strength-to-weight ratio.  

Using high-modulus carbon and clever engineering, designers produce carbon bikes that are very strong, while being ludicrously light. Many major manufacturers now produce carbon road bikes that weigh less than 15 pounds complete, and cross-country mountain bikes weighing in around 20 pounds. 

Not all carbon is created equal though. Lower-grade (or modulus) carbon has more fillers, which reduces cost but adds weight. It is possible for a lower-modulus carbon frame to weigh more than a high-end aluminum frame. In this case, you get what you pay for. 

The bottom line : With the right components, aluminum frames can still be competitively light, but if you’re looking for no-holds-barred lightweight performance, carbon is unbeatable.

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Are Aluminum Bikes Harsh? Is Carbon More Comfortable?

Ride quality has long been a claimed benefit of carbon frames. Carbon can be engineered to be stiff in certain directions and compliant in other directions. This means a carbon frame can be comfortable over bumps and rough roads yet simultaneously efficient under pedaling. Bike marketers love using the old “laterally stiff and vertically compliant” chestnut.

Over the last couple of decades, improved technology has narrowed the comfort gap between aluminum and carbon. Manufacturers can now vary the shape of aluminum tubing throughout its length with  hydroforming to achieve laterally stiff and vertically compliant ride characteristics. Frame tubes can be thinner — sometimes as thin as a soda can — in areas where compliance is desired and thicker where stiffness and strength are necessary. All this means that a modern aluminum frame isn’t significantly less comfortable on regular roads than its carbon counterparts.

Objectively quantifying the difference in comfort between two similar bikes is incredibly hard. Bike design has a huge influence on comfort. So do  tires and touch points. If your bike feels harsh, wider tires with more supple casings and lower air pressure will make the greatest perceptible difference. Things like more compliant handlebars, seatposts, and thicker bar tape can make noticeable improvements too.

The bottom line : Carbon has a slight edge, but if comfort is your biggest concern, frame material is often secondary to other, more important factors. Is the bike intended for road racing or endurance riding? Look at things like tire clearance, fit, and geometry. Ultimately, no matter the frame material, comfort is something that can always be fine-tuned or improved.

Are Carbon Bikes More Efficient, Stiff or Responsive Than Aluminum?

Does one material do this better than another? Technically, carbon comes out on top. With aluminum frames, manufacturers use different tube shapes and varying thicknesses to control the ride characteristics. But fundamentally, Carbon fiber simply has more potential for engineers to tune ride quality. By simply changing the carbon layup (the direction that carbon fibers are oriented), it can be made stiff in one specific direction, and in one specific area. 

The bottom line : Both carbon and aluminum frames can be made to be both responsive, stiff, and efficient. The responsiveness and stiffness of carbon frames can be engineered and tuned to a higher level and it can be finely controlled, giving carbon a slight edge over aluminum. 

Are Aluminum Bikes More Durable than Carbon Bikes?

The biggest risk is that carbon is still susceptible to cracks and other damage from direct impact, as you'd experience in a big crash. Fortunately, carbon can be easily repaired , and when done correctly, the repaired frame's performance and durability is indistinguishable from when it was new. That's something that can't be said for aluminum.

While aluminum frames cannot typically be repaired, they are less expensive to replace. Aluminum can also withstand some crashes and impacts and still be okay to ride. However, make sure you have your local bike shop check out your frame, if you're concerned it might be damaged. Dents in key areas can compromise an aluminum frame. Cracks can appear in welds that can eventually lead to frame failure.

While carbon fiber has nearly infinite fatigue life, aluminum frames may not last for a lifetime of riding. Sometimes veteran riders will talk about how they can notice how an extremely old aluminum frame feels "softer" after years of riding. For most regular cyclists though, this isn't a common concern, as they'll never keep or ride an aluminum frame long enough for it to matter. 

No matter your frame material, it's important to regularly inspect it to ensure it is safe. The simplest way to tell if carbon is cracked is to run a clean rag along the tubes to see if it snags on loose fibers. You can also tap on an area that's been impacted and listen to the sound — a dull "thwack" is a bad sign, but a clean, crisp "tick" might mean you're okay. Again, check with your friendly, local pro mechanic before assuming your bike is safe to ride.

Aluminum dents can vary from shallow cosmetic blemishes to deep dents. Ultimately, it’s always best to get your bike inspected by a trusted professional.

The bottom line :  Any frame that’s properly cared for can last a long time. Bad luck and crashes can happen, and in these cases, aluminum  might be more durable. It's certainly cheaper to replace. Carbon might be more susceptible to damage from impacts, but it can be repaired.  

Aluminum Bikes Are (Usually) Less Expensive Than Carbon Bikes

There’s no real contest here. Carbon is more expensive. There is more engineering required, the manufacturing process is more labor-intensive, and every frame requires a dedicated mold that further increases the cost. It's possible for aluminum frames to be built by machine, but carbon fiber layup is still done by hand. 

When considering bikes at an equal price point, an aluminum bike will generally have nicer components than a carbon bike. It is a balancing act between paying for frame quality and component quality. Remember, components are always easier to upgrade than frames.

The bottom line : Aluminum is cheaper. Whether or not that makes it better or worse can be a matter of taste. Good bikes are made at every price point. The lower cost of aluminum frames may free up your budget for higher-end components.

Carbon vs. Aluminum: Which Looks Better?

Aluminum bike manufacturing has also gotten good enough to produce bikes that look a lot like their carbon counterparts. Hydroforming allows manufacturers to form aluminum frames into smooth aerodynamic shapes. Seamless welds can add to that smooth appearance, making some new aluminum frames almost indistinguishable from carbon at a distance.

For some, welds can also be a mark of beauty. Perfect, clean, and even welds represent excellent craftsmanship. For some mountain bikers, thick, beefy welds can make a bike feel tough and ready for gnarly riding. 

Ultimately, a good-looking bike could be made out of anything if it’s done right. It's up to the rider, and if you're happy, that's all that matters. 

The bottom line: Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Ride what you like and be happy!

Carbon vs. Aluminum: What Conclusions Can We Draw?

Remember, though, that the most important part of a bike — even more so than the frame — is the rider. Pick the frame that you think can make you the happiest. That’s the best way to enjoy the ride.  If you still want to compare carbon and aluminum bikes in-person, try a physical shop like TPC’s Louisville/Denver bike store . Pick bikes up to see how heavy they actually feel in real life. If you can, test ride them to compare the differences in weight or ride characteristics. Then, you can always buy online if you choose to do so.

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Carbon Vs Aluminum Bike Frame: Which is Better?

By: Author Zachary Friedman

Posted on Last updated: May 5, 2024

Categories Bikes and Cycling

Home » Bikes and Cycling » Carbon Vs Aluminum Bike Frame: Which is Better?

When it comes to choosing a bike frame, one of the most important considerations is the material it is made of. This guide outlines the pros and cons of carbon vs aluminum bike frames to help you choose which material is better for your next bike. We’ll compare the weight, durability, handling, efficiency, comfort, cost, looks, longevity, and more. This guide covers both mountain bikes and road bikes. I’ve ridden both frame materials extensively over the years. In this guide, I’ll share my experience.

Generally, carbon bikes are the better choice if you’re looking for a bike that is lighter, more comfortable, more responsive, and more efficient. Aluminum bikes are better if you’re looking for a bike that is cheaper, more durable, and safer.

Pros of Carbon Frames

• Lighter weight because the material is stronger and less dense
• Stiffer and more responsive. This improves handling
• More comfortable/better ride quality
• Carbon frames can last longer because they don’t fatigue
• Carbon fiber frames can be repaired if they crack
• More efficient because they are lighter, more aerodynamic, and more rigid
• No corrosion
• Higher-end and more technologically advanced

Cons of Carbon Frames

• More expensive
• Durability can be an issue. Carbon frames can crack from a light impact in some cases. You can also accidentally crack a frame by overtightening components
• Harder to carry luggage because you can’t mount racks and panniers to most carbon frames
• Bad for the environment because carbon fiber is not very recyclable
• Safety can be an issue because carbon frames can fail without warning if they are compromised

Pros of Aluminum Frames

• More durable. Aluminum can withstand a harder impact without cracking or failing because it is less brittle
• More environmentally friendly. Aluminum is highly recyclable
• You can mount luggage and use your frame for touring
• Safer because aluminum is less likely to fail unexpectedly

Cons of Aluminum Frames

• Harsher ride because the frame is more rigid
• Aluminum frames often can’t be repaired if they crack
• Aluminum frames don’t last as long because the metal fatigues over time

Bike frames are most commonly made of carbon fiber, aluminum, steel, or titanium. The majority of modern mountain bike, gravel bike, and road bike frames are made of either carbon fiber or aluminum. High-end bikes and custom-made bikes are usually made of steel or titanium.

Carbon Fiber Bike Frames

Carbon fiber is basically a plastic that is reinforced with super strong fibers. The material was originally developed for use in the aerospace industry where parts need to be as light and strong as possible. It offers an incredibly high strength-to-weight ratio. It has a higher tensile strength than steel. In addition, it is also extremely rigid.

Carbon fiber is made by processing a polymer into strings or filaments of carbon atoms that measure 5-10 microns in diameter. Thousands of these filaments are combined to form a tow or ribbon. Tows are bonded together with an epoxy resin. The carbon and resin material is called a composite. Composites are layered into a laminate.

This material is then shaped into bike frames using molds and heat. Manufacturers use a number of different techniques. Some frames are made by bonding together individual carbon fiber tubes with a type of glued insert. Some high-end carbon bikes use modified monocoque construction. This means that the head tube, downtube, top tube, and seat tube consist of one continuous piece.

There is a lot of variation in the way that carbon frames are built as well as the way the carbon fiber itself is made. For example, the type of resin used, the thickness of the layers, the construction style, the way the material is heated, the direction of the fibers, the grade of carbon fiber, and the density and types of fibers used all play a role in the ride characteristics, durability, stiffness, and comfort of the finished frame.

Aluminum Bike Frames

Before carbon fiber became affordable and accessible to cyclists, aluminum was the most common frame material. The material is lightweight, stiff, affordable, and easy to work with.

Aluminum itself isn’t strong enough for building bike frames. It must be alloyed with other metallic elements, like magnesium, zinc, or silicon, to increase the strength and durability. 6061 and 7005 are the two most common aluminum alloys used for frame building. Of the two, 6061 is slightly superior due to its lower weight.

To reduce the weight, aluminum bike frames are generally butted. Butting involves removing unnecessary material from the inside of the frame tubes. In other words, making the tubes thinner where they don’t need as much strength. Butting makes the bike 3-4 pounds lighter, more compliant, and more responsive. The drawback is that the process adds cost.

After the tubes are shaped and butted, they are welded together with TIG welds. Finally, the frames are heat-treated for strength.

These days, manufacturers can also manipulate aluminum with a process called hydroforming. Hydroforming involves placing the aluminum tubes in a mold then injecting the mold with fluid at incredibly high pressures. These tubes form to the mold.

Frames can also be hydroformed after they are welded to fine-tune the shape. Hydroforming can optimize the aluminum frame shape for aerodynamics, stiffness, and comfort. This process can be used to mold the frame into complex shapes that can’t be achieved by hand.

Carbon Fiber Vs Aluminum Bike Frames

Frame Weight

Carbon bike frames are lighter than equivalent aluminum frames. In fact, carbon fiber is the lightest bike frame material in use today. A lighter bike allows you to climb and accelerate faster and maneuver more easily because there is less weight to move around.

Many manufacturers offer complete 15 lb (6.8 kg) carbon road bikes. This is the minimum bike weight according to the UCI rules. Carbon frames themselves weigh as little as 700-1000 grams. 20 lb complete carbon mountain bikes are commonly available as well.

Complete aluminum road bikes, on the other hand, weigh around 18 pounds on average. That’s 3 pounds heavier. Top-of-the-line aluminum frames weigh about half a pound more than carbon frames. Aluminum mountain bikes weigh around 1 pound more than comparable carbon fiber mountain bikes.

Carbon fiber frames are lighter than their aluminum counterparts because the material is less dense. The density of modern carbon fiber is about 1.9 g/cm^3 compared to aluminum which has a density of about 2.3 g/cm^3. Carbon fiber has an incredibly high strength-to-weight ratio.

Of course, carbon fiber bikes aren’t always the lighter option. Different grades of carbon fiber exist. Lower-end carbon fiber frames use fillers and more resin. This lowers costs but increases the weight.

A Modern aluminum frame will be almost as light. In fact, a low-end carbon frame could weigh more than a high-end aluminum frame.

Because both frame materials are so light, the weight of the components also plays a major role. An ultralight carbon frame fitted with heavy, low-end components might end up weighing more and performing worse than an aluminum frame fitted with better components. In this scenario, both bikes might end up costing the same.

A carbon bike with carbon bars and carbon wheels will be far lighter than an aluminum bike with aluminum handlebars and wheels. It will also have a far higher price tag.

For most riders, the weight difference is pretty insignificant. In fact, most of us could stand to lose the extra 1-3 pound difference between the frame materials. This would provide better performance gains and cost thousands of dollars less than buying a lighter bike.

Winner: Carbon fiber

Carbon frames offer a more comfortable ride than aluminum frames. The reason is that the material does a better job of absorbing shocks and dampening vibrations from the road.

Generally, you want your frame to be stiff laterally so you don’t waste energy flexing the frame from side to side as you push down on the pedals. Vertically, you want some flexibility for shock and vibration absorption. This makes the ride more comfortable while riding over bumps or rough roads.

Manufacturers can engineer carbon fiber frames in a way that makes them stiff in some places and somewhat flexible in other places. This is possible because carbon fiber can be fine tuned much more than aluminum. Manufacturers can varying the thickness of the carbon fiber, direction of the fibers, use different types of resin and filaments, and more.

For example, high-stress areas, like the bottom bracket, can be made incredibly stiff. Other areas, like the seat stays, can be made more compliant and flexible. This creates a comfortable frame without sacrificing efficiency or responsiveness. The lower density of carbon fiber also helps with vibration absorption. The improved ride quality is more noticeable on road frames than mountain bike frames.

Aluminum frames usually have a harsher and less refined ride than carbon frames. Because aluminum is a relatively soft metal, the frame tubes must be fairly thick to make the bike strong and durable. Aluminum frame tubing is thicker than carbon, steel, or titanium frame tubing. This results in an incredibly stiff frame.

Stiffer material makes for a harsh ride because the shocks and vibrations from the road transfer straight through the frame to your body. Rigid aluminum frames can’t offer as much dampening as more flexible carbon frames. For this reason, aluminum frames aren’t ideal for off-road riding or longer rides such as touring.

Having said this, there have been some major improvements in aluminum bike frame technology over the past 20 years that have greatly improved comfort. For example, the process of hydroforming allows frame builders to vary the wall thickness of aluminum tubes throughout their length.

This process allows manufacturers to form the frame thinner in areas where some flexibility is desired and thicker where strength is needed. The frame can be laterally stiff while still absorbing some vibration. Modern high-end aluminum frames are almost as comfortable as carbon frames.

Really, the frame material only plays a minor role in the overall comfort of the bike. Tires, suspension systems, saddles, grips, pedals, and the bike’s frame geometry have a much bigger influence over comfort. A properly fitting saddle and comfortable grips can make all the difference.

Wide, high-volume tires with low air pressure absorb most road noise. Suspension systems absorb the majority of shocks. The frame geometry is another important factor to consider. For example, a race bike with an aggressive riding position will be less comfortable than a hybrid bike with an upright seating position.

Ride Characteristics: Frame Stiffness, Handling, and Responsiveness

When building a bike frame, manufacturers have to strike a compromise. The bike needs to be stiff so it handles predictably and responsively. At the same time, the frame needs to have some give so the ride isn’t too harsh.

When you take a hard corner, you want your bike to maintain its line without flexing and derailing and sending you on an unpredictable path. You also don’t want the frame to flex excessively and waste energy. When you hit a bump in the road, you don’t want your teeth to shake out of your head because the ride is so harsh.

Carbon frames have superior ride characteristics, including handling, responsiveness, and comfort. Mostly because the material allows manufacturers to strike a better compromise between stiffness and compliance. Carbon fiber offers frame builders the ability engineer and fine-tune the frame with incredible precision so the finished bike has the exact desired ride characteristics.

For example, manufacturers can vary the number of layers of carbon fiber to make some sections thicker than others. They can also change the direction of the fibers. The raw carbon fiber material can be made with different densities of filaments or different types or amounts of resin. Other types of fibers can also be mixed with the carbon filaments to change the behavior of the material.

All of these options as well as computer modeling are available to engineers when designing and building carbon frames. They can change the stiffness and flexibility of a particular section to optimize the frame for handling, responsiveness, comfort, and all other aspects of ride quality.

Aluminum is a bit more limiting material to work with. The tubes can be butted and the thickness can be varied through hydroforming. Manufacturers can adjust the shape of the tubing as well. This allows for a good amount of control over the ride quality, stiffness, and responsiveness. Just not quite as much as carbon fiber.

Having said this, the difference isn’t all that great. Both materials can make stiff and responsive frames. Particularly with modern techniques. After riding for a few hours on either frame material, you would quickly grow accustomed to the bike feel and ride quality. For most riders, the difference in ride quality is marginal.

Because aluminum is a weaker material than carbon fiber, you would expect it to be less durable. In practice, this isn’t the case because aluminum is less brittle. Over the years, aluminum has proven to be an incredibly durable and reliable bike frame material.

Generally, an aluminum frame can handle a harder impact force than a carbon frame without cracking or breaking. The frame may suffer a cosmetic dent but still remain rideable. For this reason, many cyclists who ride in disciplines where crashing is common, like many forms of mountain biking, choose to ride aluminum frames. They can just take more of a beating.

This allows the rider to attempt more challenging trails without having to worry as much about destroying the frame. It’s also easier on the budget. If a frame gets cracked, it’s much cheaper to replace than an expensive carbon frame.

Having said this, if you crash hard enough, you can destroy an aluminum frame. If the aluminum cracks, the bike is unsafe to ride because the frame could fail catastrophically without warning. Dents in aluminum can also create weak spots which can compromise the frame. It can be hard to identify whether a dent is a cosmetic or structural issue. If you’re unsure, you’ll want to take the frame to a professional to have it inspected for safety.

Under normal riding conditions, carbon fiber frames are incredibly strong and durable. After all, carbon fiber is 5 times stronger than steel and has one of the highest strength-to-weight ratios of any material. Problems arise when carbon frames experience a sudden impact force that is concentrated to a small area of the frame.

Because the material is fairly brittle, the frame can crack or break surprisingly easily. A crash hard enough to dent a metal frame could cause a carbon frame to crack, rendering it unrideable. A comparable metal frame may still be rideable after suffering the same impact force.

Historically, carbon fiber hasn’t been the most reliable frame material either. There are plenty of stories out there of carbon frames failing prematurely or cracking during a minor crash. You’ll want to inspect the frame periodically and after an accident.

The most common failure points on carbon frames are the bonded junctions. These are areas where tubes that were made separately during manufacture were stuck together. To be safe, you’ll want to periodically inspect your rear dropouts where the seat and chainstays meet, the head tube where it meets the down tube and top tube, the bottom bracket area, and the area around the seat post clamp.

Areas with glued inserts can also be weak spots. Inspect the bottom bracket threads, headset race, and rear dropouts. You should also look at the bottom of the down tube and chainstays. Rocks get kicked up and can cause damage to the tubes, weakening them. You may want to apply some type of frame protection on these areas.

Cracks can be difficult to spot. It can be helpful to run a cloth along the frame tubes. Broken or lose fibers can catch on the cloth. If you suspect that an area is cracked, you can tap around on it with a coin. A dull sound means the area could be weakened. A crisp sound means the material is in good condition. If you’re unsure, check with a professional.

If you spot any cracks, you’ll need to get them repaired or retire the frame. It’s not safe to ride a cracked carbon frame because they can fail without warning.

Carbon fiber bikes these days are much better than they were in the past. Modern materials and manufacturing techniques have made the material much more durable. For example, modified monocoque construction has made tube junction failures incredibly uncommon. This is because the bike, including the headtube, downtube, seat tube, and top tube, is made as a single piece. This eliminates some of the most common bonded junction failure points.

A note about accidental damage: One major drawback to carbon fiber is that it’s pretty easy to accidentally crack it. If you over-tighten components when installing them, you risk cracking your frame. You can’t just crank down until a bolt or screw is tight like you can on a metal framed bike. To be safe, it’s best to use a torque wrench and tighten everything to the manufacturer’s specifications. You’ll have to spend a bit more time and take more care when working on your carbon bike.

Winner: Aluminum

Repairability: Can You Repair Carbon and Aluminum Bike Frames?

One of the biggest benefits of carbon fiber frames is that if you crack your frame in an accident or just notice a crack developing from heavy use, it can be repaired in most cases. In fact, carbon fiber frames are often easier to repair than metal frames.

The repair process involves removing the damaged section and recreating that section with new carbon fiber. If the damage is minor, a simple patch can be used.

Carbon frame repair is a job that’s best left to a professional frame builder who knows what they’re doing. DIY repair options are available as well but are only recommended for minor repairs. Check out this guide to repairing a carbon bike for more info. Bike manufacturers may try to tell you that it’s impossible to repair a broken carbon frame in hopes that you buy a new bike instead. When repaired correctly, the frame is as good as new.

Aluminum frames, on the other hand, can’t be repaired in most cases. The reason is that you can’t simply bend aluminum back into shape and re-weld it like you can with steel. When you weld aluminum, you must re-temper or heat-treat the whole frame to strengthen the metal. This involves heating then cooling the entire aluminum frame in a controlled manner. This process is more expensive than just buying a new frame. If you skip this step, the weld probably won’t hold.

Also, once a crack or dent has formed in the aluminum tubing, it is difficult to determine the structural integrity of the frame. Another spot could have weakened as well. It’s difficult to tell by looking at the frame. If your aluminum frame cracks, you should replace it.

Having said this, you could surely find someone who would be willing to TIG weld your broken aluminum frame to attempt a repair. You may get thousands more miles out of the frame or it may fail the next day. If you decide to do this, remember that you’re taking a chance. A catastrophic frame failure is a possibility.

Tip: Many major manufacturers guarantee their frames for a certain amount of time. If your frame cracks, you may be able to get it replaced for free. Be sure to check your warranty before going out and buying a new frame.

Aluminum is the cheapest bike frame material. It’s cheaper than steel, titanium, and carbon fiber. Aluminum frames often cost half as much as carbon frames.

The main reason is that aluminum frames can be mass-produced in a factory. Many of the manufacturing processes can be automated. It takes far fewer man-hours to make an aluminum frame and the raw material is cheaper. Fewer specialized tools are required as well.

The low price is the reason that alloy frames were introduced in the first place. They brought down the cost of bicycles considerably. To see how cheap aluminum frames can be, look at the bikes at a Walmart or any big box store. You’ll notice that they are almost all aluminum and incredibly cheap.

Due to the lower price, aluminum is a good choice for cycling events that are hard on frames or events where there is a high likelihood of crashing, like downhill or freeride mountain biking. If the frame gets damaged, it is much less expensive to replace. Amateur racers who buy their own bikes may also enjoy the cost savings.

Carbon frames are more expensive because building them is a labor-intensive process. It takes more man-hours and much of the work must be done by hand instead of a machine.

For example, carbon fiber layup must be done by hand. This increases labor costs. Carbon fiber is a difficult material to work with. It takes some skill. Building a carbon frame also requires specialized molds and equipment that add to the cost. The raw material is expensive as well. Carbon fiber material costs more than aluminum. All of this contributes to the high price of carbon frames.

To meet a lower price point, some manufacturers use a lower grade of carbon fiber that uses more epoxy and fillers. These frames are heavier and may not offer any benefits over aluminum. If you’re on a tight budget, you’re probably better off staying away from carbon frames or buying used.

You’ll also want to consider the components the bike comes with if you’re buying a complete bike. When comparing carbon and aluminum framed bikes that both cost the same, the aluminum bike will have higher-end components.

The components play a major role in the bike’s performance and ride quality. An aluminum bike may be the better buy at lower price ranges. You might be better off getting a slightly lower-end frame so you can afford higher-end components. There are trade-offs.

Frame Efficiency and Aerodynamics

Carbon frames are more efficient than aluminum frames. The increased efficiency allows you to travel further using the same amount of energy that you would on a comparable aluminum frame. You’ll probably maintain a higher average speed as well. This is probably the reason that the pros all use carbon frames these days.

Carbon frames are more efficient for three main reasons:

• Carbon frames are lighter- It takes less energy to accelerate, climb, and maintain speed with a lighter bike. You’re simply moving less mass around when you ride. When riding a heavier aluminum frame, you’ll tire out more quickly and ride slightly slower.
• Carbon frames are more rigid- When you pedal hard, bike frames want to flex from side to side. When this happens, energy is being used to flex the frame rather than push you forward. Flexing a frame laterally doesn’t accomplish anything. It’s just wasted energy. Carbon fiber frames are designed for torsional stiffness so they don’t twist as you pedal. This way, you use your energy more efficiently. The power transfer from the pedals to the rear wheel is efficient. Compared to their carbon counterparts, aluminum frames are slightly less stiff. When you pedal, the frame flexes torsionally. This wastes som energy flexing the frame that could be used to drive you forward.
• Carbon frames offer better aerodynamics- Carbon fiber can be molded into pretty much any shape. This allows manufacturers to mold the frame tubes into more aerodynamic designs that reduce wind resistance. This saves a considerable amount of energy when riding at speeds above 10 mph. Aluminum frames can’t be quite as aerodynamic. Because aluminum isn’t as strong as carbon fiber, the tubes need to be slightly thicker to make the bike strong enough. The extra thickness in the tubes creates air resistance that slows you down.

Of course, efficiency really only matters to professional cyclists. Recreational riders probably won’t notice a difference or won’t care. The difference is pretty minimal. Both carbon and aluminum can make incredibly lightweight, stiff, and aerodynamic frames.

Frame Longevity: How Long Will Carbon and Aluminum Frames Last?

In theory, carbon frames last longer because carbon fiber doesn’t fatigue like aluminum. As long as you take good care of your bike while transporting it and don’t crash too hard, a carbon frame can last a long time. Almost indefinitely.

Having said this, even though carbon fiber is an incredibly strong material, it is more brittle than aluminum. It can’t handle as hard of impacts without cracking. If you participate in a cycling discipline that is particularly demanding on frames, there is a good chance that your carbon frame will crack during an accident and fail prematurely.

Aluminum, on the other hand, fatigues over time. After enough miles, the material eventually cracks and fails. How long your aluminum frame lasts depends on the type of riding you do, how you treat it, and the quality of the aluminum and welds. If you’re hard on your aluminum frame, it may fail after 5 years. If you treat it properly, you could get decades of use out of it.

Winner : Aluminum

Carbon fiber frames may be more dangerous than aluminum frames. The reason is that it isn’t immediately obvious when a carbon fiber frame is structurally compromised. You could miss a hairline fracture during an inspection or the damage could be covered by the frame’s finish. Carbon fiber can fail catastrophically and without warning. Imagine bombing down a hill at 30 mph when your head tube separates from your down tube and top tube.

For a real-world example, check out this article about a carbon bike failures and lawsuits. Several people have been seriously injured when their bike shattered underneath them. While this is unlikely, it is possible. Carbon handlebars have also been known to fail unexpectedly.

Aluminum frames don’t fail in the same way. The material tends to give you some early warning signs that it is going to break. The frame may crack and bend slightly before completely failing. You may hear some creaking or notice some changes in the ride quality. It is also easier to spot cracks in aluminum than it is in carbon fiber.

To be safe, you should thoroughly check your bike frame for cracks at least once per season and after a crash. You should do a quick inspection after every wash and if you hear a creak or unfamiliar sound while riding. Be extra thorough around the common failure points outlined in the durability section above.

To inspect a carbon frame, begin by looking for scratches in the paint. If you spot any scratches that appear deeper than the paint, use a coin to tap around the scratch. Listen for a change in pitch as you tap around the area. If the carbon is broken underneath, the tap will sound dull. You can also gently press on any areas where you suspect that the frame is cracked. If they feel softer, the carbon is broken. For more info, check out this guide to inspecting a carbon frame.

To inspect an aluminum frame, look for any deep dents or cracks on the tubing. Also look closely at the welds to make sure there isn’t any cracking or crimping. Make sure the wheels are aligned. If you find any issues, the frame could be compromised.

Which Frame Material is More Environmentally Friendly?

Most cyclists care greatly about the environment. For some of us, it’s the reason we ride a bike instead of drive or take the bus. One great feature of aluminum is that is incredibly recyclable. In fact, it is one of the most recyclable materials out there. For this reason, aluminum frames are much more environmentally friendly than carbon fiber frames.

For example, according to this article from Aluminum.org, almost 75% of the aluminum produced in the US is still in use. Aluminum can be recycled indefinitely. After you’ve gotten years of enjoyment out of your aluminum frame, it can be melted down and recycled into an endless number of products including soda cans, building materials, or a new bike frame.

Unfortunately, carbon fiber is not an environmentally friendly material. The truth is that most of it ends up in landfills. The reason is that carbon fiber is not really recyclable. It can’t be simply melted down and reused like metals.

The recycling process that exists today involves burning away the polymers so the carbon filaments can be reused. This is basically burning plastic. As you can imagine, this isn’t a very green process. Larger pieces are sometimes re purposed into other products.

Corrosion and Degradation

Corrosion isn’t really a concern with either carbon or aluminum frames. This means you don’t have to worry about your frame getting wet or exposed to salty sea air, chemicals, or road salt and rusting. Carbon fiber, not being a metal, doesn’t rust or oxidize at all.

Aluminum alloy contains very little if any iron so it doesn’t rust either. Having said that, aluminum does corrode. Interestingly, corrosion is somewhat beneficial for the material. When aluminum alloy gets exposed to moisture, a hard film of aluminum oxide forms on the surface. This material is quite strong. Much stronger than rust. It also protects the underlying aluminum from further corrosion. This means that an aluminum frame won’t corrode away over time.

Of course, even if the frame can’t corrode, that doesn’t mean that other components can’t as well. You’ll want to keep an eye on your chain, spokes, rims, handlebars, crankset, derailleurs, and any components that contain steel parts. Most bikes also use steel bolts that can corrode over time. If you ride near the ocean, it’s a good idea to keep an eye out for rust. The only bicycle frame material that rusts is steel.

One issue with older or lower-end carbon fiber frames is that UV light could cause them to degrade over time. The carbon fibers themselves do not degrade but the resin used to hold them together could in some cases. This can cause the frame to become brittle and eventually break. This problem has mostly been solved on newer and higher-end carbon fiber frames. If you’re buying a brand new bike, this isn’t even worth worrying about.

Carrying Luggage

If you plan to do any bicycle touring or bikepacking, you’ll want to choose an aluminum frame over carbon. The reason is that aluminum is a strong enough material to support racks and panniers without damaging the frame. In fact, many companies make dedicated touring or bikepacking bikes with aluminum frames.

If you plan to tour on your bike, make sure that it has the proper braze-ons or eyelets for mounting racks. For more info, check out my guide to choosing a touring bike.

Carbon fiber frames, on the other hand, aren’t really suitable for carrying luggage. Most carbon frames can’t accept racks and panniers because they put too much stress on the frame tubes. They can crack or break. For this reason, carbon frames are not recommended for bicycle touring or bikepacking.

Having said this, there are a few options for carrying luggage on a carbon framed bike. The best option is to use a trailer. These attach to the rear axle or seat post and put very little stress on the bike’s frame. For more info, check out my guide to the different types of bike trailers or check out my trailer vs pannier pros and cons list.

You can usually use bikepacking bags safely on a carbon frame as well as long as you don’t overload them. Bikepacking bags attach directly to the frame with straps and buckles. No bolts are required. You’ll still want to be careful about not overloading the bike.

Bike Frame Technology, Frame Design, and Optimization

Carbon fiber is a high tech material that gives framebuilders nearly unlimited options for fine tuning and optimizing the frame to their exact desired specifications.

For example, engineers can change the thickness of the carbon fiber with extreme accuracy by varying the number of layers. They can vary the direction of the carbon fiber. Different types of resin can be used in the manufacture of the carbon to change the characteristics of the material. They can vary the density of the carbon filaments or add different fillers to change its characteristics. There are an incredible number of variables that can be adjusted to optimize the bike for performance and comfort.

For this reason, carbon fiber bikes are considered to be higher end. Pretty much every bike being raced professionally in both road and mountain biking is made of carbon fiber. Almost every high-end bike is carbon these days. That says something about the material. For some riders, carbon frames are also a bit of a status symbol because they are so expensive. If you like to use the best, most advanced gear that the cycling industry has to offer, you can’t go wrong with a carbon frame.

Even though aluminum is an easier material to work with than carbon fiber, it can’t be manipulated and fine tuned quite as much. Aluminum can be butted and hydroformed to change the shape and thickness of the tubes. Different aluminum alloys are also available with different characteristics. Some are stiffer than others.

These options gives frame builders some control over the ride characteristics of the finished aluminum frame but they do need to make some compromises. You might have to sacrifice some comfort or efficiency.

Aluminum is often associated with lower-end bikes. After all, it’s the cheapest bike frame material. Some riders consider their bike to be a bit of a status symbol. They want to ride the best and most modern equipment Carbon and titanium bikes are considered higher-end.

My Experience

I’ve ridden both carbon fiber and aluminum frames extensively over the years. When I ride my bikes, I’m usually either touring or riding recreationally. I enjoy riding trails near my home. For the type of riding I do, aluminum is the better choice.

The main reason is the durability. With an aluminum frame, I don’t have to worry as much about causing damage during a minor accident. When I ride my carbon bike, I’m always paranoid that I will crack the frame, even though I know that modern carbon frames are very durable. I don’t have this fear when I ride my aluminum bike. Aluminum can take a lot more abuse. I’ve never broken an aluminum frame.

I also do quite a bit of touring. Carbon fiber isn’t really an option for touring bikes because you can’t mount luggage on most carbon frames. Aluminum is a great material for touring bikes. It’s lightweight and can handle the extra weight of racks and panniers.

The cost is also a major factor for me. I have a limited budget to work with, unfortunately. Aluminum frames are far cheaper than carbon.

Other Bike Frame Materials

Even though aluminum and carbon fiber are the two most popular options in use today, you still have two different materials to consider. For some types of cycling, steel or titanium are better choices.

Steel Bike Frames

Steel is the original bike frame material. As the saying goes ‘steel is real’ In fact, it was the only modern frame option up until the mid-1970s when the first aluminum bikes became widely available. In recent years, steel frames have declined in popularity. Mostly due to their heavy weight.

Steel is an alloy of iron. It is usually mixed with carbon and traces of other elements to increase strength and reduce weight. Like aluminum, steel can also be butted to save weight, just like aluminum. There are two types of steel used for bike framebuilding.

Chromoly steel is the strongest, lightest, and most common. Chromoly is a steel alloy made by combining steel with chromium and molybdenum. Adding these elements increases the strength-to-weight ratio of the steel. Several different versions of chromoly exist. The most popular is 4130. Hi-tensile steel is a heavier and cheaper type of steel that is used to build lower-end bike frames.

To join the tubes, manufacturers either weld, braze, or use lugs. Welding bonds the frame tubes by melting them together with a filler material. Generally, TIG welding is used on bike frames. Brazing sticks the frame tubes with a molten filler material. The frame tubes themselves do not melt. Lugs are sleeves that fit around the frame tube. The frame is brazed to the lugs to hold the bike together.

The main advantage that steel bikes offer over any other material is the smoother ride. Steel has some flex. It’s not completely rigid. This greatly dampens vibrations and makes for a springy and comfortable ride. For this reason, steel is a popular choice for touring bikes and gravel bikes. Steel is also easy to repair if it cracks. Pretty much any welder can fix a broken steel frame.

The main drawback to steel is the weight. Steel is the heaviest bike frame material in use. This makes the bike slower and less efficient than carbon or aluminum. Steel can also rust if it’s not properly taken care of.

Check out my steel vs aluminum bike frames guide for more info.

Titanium Bike Frames

Titanium is a favorite of custom frame builders. This high-end material is stronger and significantly lighter than steel. In fact, it has the highest strength-to-weight ratio of any metal. It is also resistant to corrosion and fatigue.

Titanium frames really offer the best of all worlds. This is probably the reason the material is so commonly used in the aerospace and defense industries where strength, weight, and reliability are all prioritized.

The physical properties of titanium make it an incredibly long-lasting material. A well-built titanium frame should last a lifetime. In fact, many manufacturers even offer a lifetime guarantee against defects.

Titanium is also known for its smooth ride quality. Many riders find it more comfortable than steel or carbon fiber. For this reason, titanium is an excellent choice for mountain, touring, or road bikes.

The only real drawback to titanium bike frames is the cost. They are incredibly expensive. The material itself is expensive. There is also quite a bit of labor involved. Titanium is a fairly difficult material to work with.

A number of different titanium alloys exist. Some are harder to work with than others. For building bike frames, titanium is often alloyed together with aluminum and traces of other elements.

Titanium frame tubes are welded together, just like steel or aluminum. The process is made slightly more complicated because titanium reacts with oxygen. Titanium bike frames can also be lugged.

For more info, check out my guides to titanium vs carbon fiber bike frames and titanium vs steel bike frames.

One other less common bike frame material to consider is bamboo. For more info, check out my guide to bamboo bikes.

Final Thoughts

When choosing between a carbon fiber or aluminum bike frame, the main differences come down to weight, durability, comfort, and price. There are trade-offs between these four. There really isn’t a best material.

When you choose a carbon frame, you’re prioritizing weight and comfort over durability and price. When you buy an aluminum frame, you’re prioritizing durability and price. You’ll have to compromise somewhere. Of course, your personal preference also comes into play.

Consider how often you crash, whether you’re an elite rider or more casual, how much weight matters, and your budget.

If you’re still undecided, head to your local bike shop and give both frame materials a try to see which you like. You may find that you really like the light weight of a carbon frame. Maybe you find that you prefer the extra cost of carbon isn’t worth it.

Whichever frame material you end up going with, hopefully this guide helps you choose the best bike for your riding style.

Where do you stand on the carbon vs aluminum bike frame debate? Share your experience in the comments below!

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More from Where The Road Forks

• Flat Pedals Vs Clipless: Pros and Cons
• Types of Bicycle Handlebars
• 1X Vs 2X Drivetrain
• Fat Bike Vs Mountain Bike: Pros and Cons

Zachary Friedman is an accomplished travel writer and professional blogger. Since 2011, he has traveled to 66 countries and 6 continents. He founded ‘Where The Road Forks’ in 2017 to provide readers with information and insights based on his travel and outdoor recreation experience and expertise. Zachary is also an avid cyclist and hiker. Living as a digital nomad, Zachary balances his professional life with his passions for hiking, camping, cycling, and worldwide exploration. For a deeper dive into his journey and background, visit the About page. For inquiries and collaborations, please reach out through the Contact page. You can also follow him on Facebook.

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Tuesday 9th of August 2022

Great article, thank you! Have been reading a lot of forums and have not found any answer one way or another. This article summarizes things very nicely, and probably just saved me from spending a $1k trading my aluminum frame for a carbon one. Thanks!

wheretheroadforks

Thanks for reading!

Wednesday 29th of June 2022

CAAD12, aluminium alloy bike with carbon fork and carbon wheels here. Decent article but seems in favour or carbon bikes. If you are a pro cyclist then by all means ride carbon. For average riders a good aluminium bike is a far better choice as carbon will easily crack and you won’t know it until it’s too late. The bike just falls apart. Everyday things happen and aluminium will handle much better. 4000 plus miles on my CAAD12 and will last me for years. Getting carbon wheels was the best upgrade highly recommend getting them.

Monday 4th of July 2022

I agree about the durability. Carbon frames are pretty easy to damage. I think an aluminum frame with a carbon fork and carbon wheels is a great compromise.

Saturday 7th of August 2021

good article-I lurned a few things- but what about an aluminum fram and a carbon fork and carbon seat stay-bike those kind are pretty common as well and light-usually less than 22# I found a carbon China-bike for less than $1500-from Savadeck bikes it weighs a little over 20#-have you seen it

Wednesday 11th of August 2021

I haven't seen that particular bike but I think an aluminum frame with a carbon fork is a good compromise. It's a great way to save some weight and money.

Graham Terry

Thursday 8th of July 2021

I am 71 and have been riding for 30 years never spent a lot of money on a bike I still try and ride at a good pace never had carbon I am on the fence to buy aluminium again or go carbon. Great article.

Wednesday 14th of July 2021

I think if money isn't an issue, carbon bikes are nice. For me, they aren't worth the extra cost. I don't ride competitively so I don't really care about a bit of extra weight.

Wednesday 12th of May 2021

I'm not sold on the need (or true benefit) for a 15# carbon bike, like a Canyon Ultimate SLX compared to say an 18# alloy Cannondale CAAD13. I have a Cannondale Hybrid from 2008, which is basically the same frame as a CAAD of the same era, 23 lbs. as equipped with MTB type cockpit, triple crank, 8 speed freehub and 700x37c tires with tubes. I had signed up for the 2021 Assault on Mt Mitchell, 102 miles with 11,000 ft of climbing so I was considering a lighter bike to help out on the climbing physics, so I test rode a used Trek Domane 4.5 OCLV ( I think, it was carbon with the iso-de-coupler thingy), which was in the 18-20 lbs range. I couldn't really tell if it was that much smoother riding and up on the hoods, probably no faster than the Cannondale hybrid which cost one fourth as much as the carbon bike. The interesting thing was that in comparing the carbon Trek to my old 26 lbs 1984 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe made of 4130 steel (the first bike I bought after college 37 years ago), it was no faster on two Strava road segments that I regularly ride. Ultimately, I decided to stick with my old bikes, and then Covid killed the Assault, so I avoided spending $1400 on a used bike that probably wouldn't have made that much difference in performance. The old Schwinn rides smooth and, with it, I have made the top ten on short segments near my house where the competition is all guys half my age on modern road bikes. I even have a KOM on one lightly traveled segment where I rode both my Schwinn and Cannondale back-to-back and amazingly got the exact same time on both rides that day.

Thursday 3rd of June 2021

That's interesting that you got the same time. I would have thought there would at least be a few seconds difference with such a big weight difference.

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BlackHeart’s Gravel AL Is Everything You Need and Nothing You Don’t

Riders who dismiss the Gravel AL as a budget alloy option do so at their peril—it performs to the level of many pricier carbon bikes.

BlackHeart Bike Co. has a small and well-considered lineup of bikes. And its newest addition—the Gravel AL—fits right in. As the name suggests, the Gravel AL is an aluminum gravel bike with gravel-specific geometry and, most importantly, clearance for 47mm tires.

When I first saw the Gravel AL, it reminded me of classic aluminum criterium bikes. A simple design with an “everything you need and nothing you don’t” philosophy.

Truckee, California-based BlackHeart fabricates the Gravel AL in Asia from double-butted 7005 aluminum tubes. The frame weighs 1,660 grams (claimed) for a size 54cm. The frame features modern touches such as integrated cable routing, an aero Kammtail downtube, and a pair of dropped seat stays. All features (presumably) aid with the bike’s aerodynamics, although Blackheart does not make any specific aero claims for the Gravel AL.

The all-important tire clearance is a healthy 47mm. This gives riders plenty of wiggle room to fit 42mm labeled tires on modern gravel wheels that typically feature a 25mm internal diameter, plus a few extra millimeters to account for mud and other debris. Other important frame details include a T47 bottom bracket for nearly universal crank compatibility. The downside of T47 is the higher replacement cost compared to PF30 and BSA bottom brackets, even if you opt for more conventional steel bearings.

There is also a SRAM UDH for easy replacement (and Transmission drivetrain compatibility), and a round 31.6mm seat post for riders who want to add a dropper. Both standards are great for riders, especially those who travel to gravel events because most good bike shops stock replacement parts to fit.

Pricing and Build Options

One of the things that sets the Gravel AL apart from the hundreds of other gravel bikes on the market right now is the personalization BlackHeart offers at the time of purchase. Riders can pick from—no joke—137 colors of Cerakote finish for their Gravel AL, with a single color frame paint and a 2nd logo color included in the price. For build kit options, most Shimano and SRAM groupsets are available. Although the Gravel AL isn’t compatible with mechanical 2x options (mechanical 1x and electronic 2x work just fine).

Pricing for complete bikes starts at $3,200 (1x mechanical Shimano GRX) and tops out at $4,750 (2x Shimano GRX Di2) with aluminum wheels. However, with the numerous upgrades that BlackHeart offers, you can easily build a much more expensive version of the Gravel AL.

Riders can upgrade to various carbon wheels, CeramicSpeed bottom brackets, or power meters—even Enve’s new single-piece cockpit is an option ($980). Most critically, riders can select their desired stem length and bar width when buying—a crucial option when purchasing a bike with an integrated front end. Running the cables external from the bar and stem—how I routed my test bike—is also an option.

The term “gravel-specific geometry” gets thrown around a lot, but what it means in terms of numbers varies greatly from brand to brand (and sometimes even from model to model). For the Gravel AL, gravel geo means a head tube angle between 71° and 71.5°, matched to a seat tube angle of 73.5° to 74.5º (both measurements depending on size). Chainstay length is consistent (427mm) across all sizes, with a trail figure between 66mm and 64mm. And it’s incredible to see a relatively small company like BlackHeart offer eight sizes of the Gravel AL, from 46cm up to 62cm.

Ride Impressions

Since BlackHearts gets so many details right, I expected the Gravel AL to ride well. It did not disappoint me in the slightest. The Gravel AL was the exact off-road dropbar bike I wanted as someone who enjoys riding fast. The Gravel AL’s ride on the pavement is stable; as soon as you get it onto the dirt, the bike comes alive. The bike’s steering is precise and responsive but never twitchy. On flowy gravel roads, it felt the way I would expect a road bike to feel. On tight singletrack, it brought enough verve to briefly make me feel like I was on a cyclocross bike.

The main drawback of the fast snapping handling, aluminum frame, and 31.6mm seat post was that the Gravel AL did provide a slightly harsher ride. That might be a deal breaker for me on a road bike with limited tire clearance. But with room for 47mm rubber, there is ample opportunity to soften the Gravel AL to suit most riders by going with a larger tire and a lower PSI. I also recommend opting for a carbon handlebar (a $300 option on any build or frameset) for the extra bit of vibration dampening.

That said, I had no real issues with the Gravel AL's ride quality. I was busy having way too much fun on the dang thing. While many gravel bikes have the versatility of serving double duty as commuters or bike-packing adventure bikes, the Gravel AL does not and is better off for it. The handling is direct and engaging. Dive into some flowy singletrack, and it’s impossible not to have a big grin on your face.

The upshot of the stiff aluminum frame is that the Gravel AL is wonderfully responsive under hard pedaling—it is nearly as snappy as a road bike. On smoother surfaces, I had no problem making tempo adjustments. On rougher and steeper terrain, charging the Gravel AL into a climb—like I was on a cyclocross track trying desperately to avoid dismounting and running—was very fun, and it is where I noticed the relatively short 427mm chainstay length the most.

Blackheart nailed what I want from a gravel bike with the Gravel AL. It’s a bike that feels like a road bike on smoother gravel surfaces and has a bit of edginess and snappiness once you hit the single track.

Value and Conclusions

The BlackHeart Gravel AL is a very compelling value proposition for riders who can look past aluminum as a frame material. Once you put big, squishy tires on a bike, the advantages of carbon and titanium frames are significantly diminished (though those benefits are not zeroed). Ultimately, it is up to individual riders to decide how much frame material is worth to them.

For my money, an aluminum gravel bike makes a ton of sense. This is especially true given the abuse a frame can be subject to during gravel events in adverse weather—I know two riders who wore through carbon fiber frames at Unbound due to accumulated mud buildup. If those bikes were aluminum, there is a higher chance that the damage would have been cosmetic rather than structural.

It’s tough to compare the Gravel AL as a complete bike because BlackHeart gives riders many options when purchasing a complete bike, but let’s use our test bike as an example.

Our Gravel AL shipped with a SRAM Force/X01 mullet groupset, Hunt 40 gravel race wheels, and a Zipp cockpit. This build sells for $5,800 and includes the custom Cerakote paint. There are cheaper complete bikes out there with a similar build kit. For example, the Lauf Seigla and Canyon Grail CF SLX sell for $4,400 and $5,500 respectively. But if you compare the BlackHeart to bikes like the Specialized Crux ($7,000), Trek Checkpoint ($8,700), or the Cervelo Aspero 5 ($7,500), it becomes harder to brush off the price differences. And when you factor in all the customization baked into the Gravel AL purchasing processes, BlackHeart’s value shines brightly.

I won’t claim that the Gravel AL is precisely as good as its pricier rivals. But having ridden many of the options, I can tell you that I would happily spend my own money on the Gravel AL. Sure, I would agonize over choosing which of the 137 colors to go with, but at the end of the day, I would get a bike delivered that is set up the way I want with a bit of money left over to take it to a big gravel event.

The Gravel AL’s sharp handling and spirited ride quality—paired with an excellent value proposition and BlackHeart’s customization options—make this a great bike. Riders who dismiss it as a budget alloy option do so at their peril. It performs to the level of many pricier carbon bikes.

In a sport like gravel racing, known for literally grinding delicate carbon chainstays into dust, there is something to be said for an aluminum race bike. I loved aluminum crit bikes in years past and now I’m in love with aluminum gravel race bikes.

Test Editor Dan Chabanov got his start in cycling as a New York City bike messenger but quickly found his way into road and cyclocross racing, competing in professional cyclocross races from 2009 to 2019 and winning a Master’s National Championship title in 2018. Prior to joining Bicycling in 2021, Dan worked as part of the race organization for the Red Hook Crit, as a coach with EnduranceWERX, as well as a freelance writer and photographer. 

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