adriatic motorcycle tours reviews

The Best Adriatic Motorcycle Tours

Here are 3 of the best motorcycle tours in the Adriatic. These epic routes have been crafted by an Adriatic touring expert and include rides through Albania, Bosnia, Croatia and Montenegro. You’ll find info on how and where to ride, top tips, what not to miss and loads more. 

By Miljenko Kralj

Long distance motorcycle traveller and owner of Adventure Roads and Moto Tours Europe.

Why you’ll love riding in the Adriatic

The Adriatic coast has so much to offer motorcycle travellers. It holds islands of exceptional beauty, stunning scenery, an excellent climate, incredible roads, nature, food, people and culture.

It’s a must for every rider as you’ll be met with hundreds of miles of sparkling blue water on one shoulder with the grey slopes of a mighty mountain on the other. You’ll enjoy views of green vineyards and old olive groves scattered over the charming hills of Istria and Dalmatia that once belonged to huge empires that ruled in these lands and the wonderful succession of cultures and architecture integrated into the life of typical Mediterranean towns you’ll be stopping off in along the way.

The Adriatic Coast is a biker’s dream and you’re going to absolutely love riding there. But to help you get the most out of your trip, here are my three absolute favourite routes. 

Weather, accommodation and tips

When to ride in the adriatic.

The climate is Mediterranean, so it’s very pleasant and mild. Spring and Autumn are ideal to ride in the Adriatic as temperatures range between 20-25C. During the summer peaks in July and August you’ll find a lot of tourists and the roads are more likely to be crowded with cars. From April to the end of June, and from the end of August all the way up to October are perfect motorcycle riding months.

You may find the odd rain shower, so it’s a good idea to take your rain gear or waterproof throwovers with you. Riding in a multi-layer textile suit with the liner removed is a great option.

ATMs are easily accessible and can be accessed anywhere along the ride.

Food prices are reasonable in the restaurants and Croatia especially has an excellent Mediterranean cuisine. Drinks in restaurants in comparison to food are sometimes overpriced.

Overall, expect pricing in the range of major top European destinations however the beauty of the Adriatic region makes it worthwhile.

Accommodation

Off season hotels might be closed (usually open around Easter time, sometimes even later in May), but there are plenty of excellent highly rated  B&Bs that you might want to try out too as the quality is fantastic. Check out the Booking.com map widget below as it’ll give you an idea of local and current pricing from central Split, Croatia.

Camping is advisable at organised campsites. Although, wild camping is also allowed so long as you’re not camping side National and Nature Parks as that is illegal. It’s advisable to use an app to check where you can legally camp such as Park4Night for example.

Be aware of the speed limits alongside the Adriatic coastline as this is one of the most beautiful coastal rides, and at the same time, a very demanding road so you want to make sure your eyes are on the road and not too distracted by the surrounding beauty.

There aren’t too many traffic cameras (like in Italy for example) in this region. But there are traffic police. And you’ll often find them hanging around in the areas you least expect as well as the more obvious stretches of road where you’ll want to twist the throttle harder.

Adriatic North Loop

• Route: Adriatic North from Zagreb to Istria through Northern Adriatic Islands and along the Adriatic Coastal route.
• Start and end point:  Zagreb

The Ride:  This tour is the shorter version of our famous Adriatic Coastal Adventure tour. Riding the stunning Adriatic Coast is something every biker should try and do at least once in their lives – it really is that special. If you want to spend an extended weekend riding one of the most scenic European routes with beautiful hilly inlands of charming Istria while enjoying the glorious islands sunsets, this is the tour for you. A top recommendation for this route is to also ride the northern Adriatic Islands of Cres, Lošinj and Krk.

If arriving by plane for a fly and ride trip, you can start the tour from Zagreb or Ljubljana, Trieste, Vienna and Split. If starting from Zagreb, take the great inlands ride of 180km to reach Istria. Head to Opatija, take a coffee break and then continue towards the famous Plominka road along the seaside before heading towards the inlands of Istria and towns of Motovun, Oprtalj, Grožnjan, Buje. After, make your way towards the west coast and towns of Novigrad and Rovinj.

Watch out for: Watch out for traffic and be careful when overtaking once you reach the coastal road in Istria as there may be camper vans heading towards the northern islands.  

Don’t miss: There’s a beautiful ride on the eastern coast of Istria along the Plominka road. You’ll find excellent roads and stunning views when riding the northern islands and a definite must and one of the absolute best coastal rides is Senj to Starigrad.

Where to stay: Istria, the north islands and the Zadar region should be your primary overnight locations and there are plenty of excellent B&Bs, hotels and organised campsites. In Istria you can aim for inland accommodation (Motovun, Grožnjan, Buzet as some of the most beautiful) or along the western coast (such as Rovinj or Novigrad).

Top Tips: Try the delicious meals with truffles in Istria (which is famous for truffles), stop for a great view on Plominka road, visit the griffon vulture shelter on Cres Island and taste local wine in some of the beautiful Istrian wineries. 

Adriatic South Coast

• Route: Adriatic South coast, Islands, Dubrovnik and Montenegro
• Start and end point: Split

The Ride: This tour along the Adriatic coast and southern islands includes some of the most beautiful Mediterranean islands, ancient historic sights and excellent roads. Riding from Dubrovnik to Montenegro

You can easily catch ferries to visit the islands and sample delicious local cuisines. There are plenty of sea and mountain views along the way with many famous vineyards to stop off at too.

For this tour, you can head from Split to Hvar, Dubrovnik and the many gorgeous Dalmatian towns along the way before making your way down into Montenegro and the Beautiful Budva Riviera. This is an easy ride to take as you only need to follow the main road south and divert to islands whenever you fancy a detour.

Watch out for/ dangers: Make sure you have your passport and green card for the bike as you will be passing through a border crossing into Montenegro.

Don’t miss: Pelješac vineyards are not to be missed and if you have more time to explore, then head into the mountains of Montenegro.

Where to stay: There are plenty of great B&Bs along the way as well as hotels (though some hotels may be closed during the off season and usually open around Easter time, so you might want to check in advance and use booking.com or AirBnB)

Top Tips: Try oyster tasting in Ston (on the way to Dubrovnik when crossing Pelješac), visit some of the wineries on Pelješac, head for Sv. Jure viewpoint and the glass bridge on Biokovo mountain above Makarska, visit Krka waterfalls near Šibenik, watch the sunset in Zadar and check out the sea organ at the famous point called “Greeting to the sun”.

Adriatic to Albania

• Route: Split or Dubrovnik through Montenegro to Albania
• Start and end point: Split / Dubrovnik
• Miles: 650-1,000 (dependent on if you start from Split or Dubrovnik)

The Ride: Cruise along of the most scenic coastal routes through Croaitia all the way to the south of the Adriatic, cut through beautiful Bosnia and continue into the hills of Montenegro and the magnificent Kotor Bay. Keep riding until you reach wild Albania and make this route the most diverse of the three.

Once you’re in Albania, head for the seaside town of Saranade and then inland through Gjirokaster. Don’t forget to visit historic Berat before heading back to Shkoder lake and then looping back across Montenegro to Bosnia.

If you’re heading back to Split, then a must ride road starts in Trebinje, Bosnia (just across the border crossing with Croatia near Dubrovnik) and passes Ljubinje and Stolac and ends in Mostar where you can have lunch. After, continue back to Split across Imotski through the excellent route across Cista provo.

Watch out for: Make sure you have your passport and green card for the bike as you will be passing through three border crossings.

Don’t miss: Southern Adriatic islands in Croatia, stunning mountains of Montenegro, beautiful Bay of Kotor, amazing hills of Albania and the mountain pass on the way from Vlore towards Sarande. You’ll find excellent roads and amazing ride there as well as stunning views of the Greek island of Corfu.

Where to stay: In Croatia there are plenty of B&Bs and hotels. Outside of the summer season, aim for B&Bs as the hotels might be closed until late May and after mid-September. In Montenegro and Albania aim for hotels

Top Tips: Albania is very cheap with very good hotel accommodation as well as excellent and low-priced seafood. Don’t miss the view on the way from Vlore to Sarande as it’s one of the best coastal rides in Albania.

Joining an organised Adriatic bike tour

We offer fully guided, self-guided and customisable tours along these routes throughout the Adriatic. The benefit of joining a tour is that our expert guides will show you much more of the epic routes, beautiful scenery, hidden gems, authentic places and make it a journey to remember. All our tours are all-inclusive, meaning all meals, accommodation, ferries, national park entrance fees and even fuel is included.

Of course, you can ride your own motorcycle to the Adriatic, but you will need to account for the time spent reaching the region and returning home as well as all of the research involved in finding good roads. Instead, you could fly in and we’ll take care of absolutely everything for you and show you all of the Adriatic’s hidden gems. 

About the author

Miljenko Kralj

Motorcycle travel has been my passion for a long time. Experiencing different cultures, tasting authentic cuisines, exploring and traveling deeper into areas unknown to most expands our horizons. This is the moto of our company too. The experience of being on the road for days on end, alone or in a group, profoundly changes the way in which we perceive ourselves and brings ways of life that are so different to ours closer to us. It all leaves a special mark in our souls every time we travel.

And that’s why I set up Moto Tours Europe, we’re a tour operator that specializes in organizing magnificent motorcycle tours through some of the best regions in Europe. 

www.mototourseurope.com

Read more on motorcycle travel in Europe

Thanks for checking out this Best Adriatic Motorcycle Tours Guide. We hope you enjoyed it! Here’s a few more articles on motorcycling in the Adriatic and Europe that we recommend you read next. 

• Europe Destination Guides
• Motorcycle Touring Guides

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Motorcycle Touring for Beginners

Tips for Planning a European Motorcycle Tour

The Ultimate Motorcycle Trip Packing List

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The 10 Best Adventure Motorcycle Helmets

How to Choose Your Adventure Bike Riding Gear

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Balkans and Adriatic Explorer

This beautiful motorcycle tour in the Balkans, designed for lovers of rest days, will take you through the undiscovered countries of southeast Europe and along the azure Adriatic coastline.

• Next tour date Sep 4 - 21, 2024 2 SPOTS LEFT
• Other tour dates Sep 3 - 20, 2025

This tour is a longer version of our popular Beautiful Balkans Adventure . We added rest days in Durmitor National Park and in the beautiful coastal town of Porec. 

The main addition is Zadar , the city on Croatia's Dalmatian coast, known for the Roman and Venetian ruins on its peninsular old town. 

This is a tour of great diversity, amazing landscapes, outstanding historical sights and fantastic riding. At the same time it gives you a lot of time to relax by the beautiful Adriatic Sea and enjoy tasteful Mediterranean cuisine and wines. On this tour we will ride through Slovenia , Croatia , Bosnia and Herzegovina , and Montenegro .

Tour overview

Dates in 2024 | 2025, road description, tour starts / ends, accommodation.

• Day 1 Arrival in Ljubljana
• Day 2 Ljubljana - Plitvice National Park
• Day 3 Plitvice National Park - Sarajevo
• Day 4 Rest day in Sarajevo
• Day 5 Sarajevo - Mostar
• Day 6 Mostar - Zabljak
• Day 7 Rest day in Zabljak
• Day 8 Zabljak - Petrovac
• Day 9 Petrovac - Dubrovnik
• Day 10 Rest day in Dubrovnik
• Day 11 Dubrovnik - Hvar Island
• Day 12 Rest day on Hvar Island
• Day 13 Hvar Island - Zadar
• Day 14 Rest day in Zadar
• Day 15 Zadar - Porec
• Day 16 Rest day in Porec
• Day 17 Porec - Ljubljana
• Day 18 Ljubljana, flight home

Arrival in Ljubljana

We'll meet you at the airport and bring you to your hotel in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. After we get you settled in the hotel , just take it easy - rest in the hotel, see the town.  We'll meet at the hotel at 2 pm for a tour briefing and take a short introductory ride with the guide to get accustomed to the bike afterwards. In the evening we meet for a special welcome dinner and have an informal chat to discuss the format of the tour.

Ljubljana - Plitvice National Park

After a morning of scenic riding through the back roads of lush green farmland and forests of southeast Slovenia, we'll enter Croatia and cruise through the Dinaric plain, an unusual karst, or limestone, environment. In the late afternoon, we'll visit fantastic Plitvice National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its sixteen lakes interconnected by waterfalls created by depositions of travertine.

Plitvice National Park - Sarajevo

This is the longest day of the tour but you will love every mile of it. The riding is excellent because the roads are empty and sweep through the low mountains and the great stretches of open plains of Herzegovina, the southern part of the country. It's been 13 years since the aggression stopped and travelers have long ago returned to this scenic country, especially to gorgeous Sarajevo. For lunch and dinner you will taste burek and cevapcici, which are both excellent Bosnian specialties.

Rest day in Sarajevo

Ringed by low mountains, spend a day on the roads around the city, enjoying the view of this exotic town, and exploring the sites of the 1984 Olympic Games. Or stroll to the Bascarsija bazaar in the center of the city, surrounded by small, unique shops and galleries. We can relax in a cafe and try Turkish coffee. The city's riverfront remains largely unchanged since that fateful day in 1914 when Austrian Archduke Francis Ferdinand lost his life here.

Sarajevo - Mostar

Cruising along the Sutjeska River is an experience to remember. A medium-sized city among the vineyards between Sarajevo and Croatia's Dubrovnik, Mostar was founded by the Turks in the 15th century at a strategic river crossing. There they built a stone bridge which is today one of the most famously photographed World Heritage-listed sites. That night, before dinner, stroll the Old Ottoman quarter, on either side of the bridge, and meet its artists and craftsmen.

Mostar - Zabljak

The road starts to climb into the low mountains, though we still pass through great open plains which afford far-reaching views into the valleys below. Set your own pace and visit Medjugorje, the second largest pilgrimage site in the world, then refresh in the waters of the massive Kravica waterfalls. Then continue to climb the narrow turns into the mountains. Durmitor is an area of massive peaks, canyons, rivers and glacial lakes, all crowned by rich evergreen forests.

Rest day in Zabljak

Hiking, swimming and bungee jumping are only some of the activities you can enjoy surrounded by nature. Nevertheless, the most spectacular of all is definitely Tara River Canyon rafting. This amazing river with clear waters and the second deepest canyon in the world, also named the "Tear of Europe," is simply a must do! You don't need to be an action hero to experience the beauty of this untamed region. Just let the backroads lead you somewhere unexpected.

Zabljak - Petrovac

At 1.3 km deep, it is one of the biggest and most beautiful in the world. Than we'll descend the mountains and ride past Skadar Lake until the coast comes into view. All your attention will be needed, as we follow the rugged coast of Montenegro, made memorable by the pristine views of nature: steep mountains above, and crystal-clear waters below. The view of the Adriatic Sea stretches far into the distance and is impossibly blue. In the afternoon, we find ourselves on the shores of the warm and pleasant coastal town of Petrovac. Petrovac has warm sandy beaches, lovely promenades and unique beachside restaurants. Here we'll spend the evening soaking up the Mediterranean atmosphere and eating seafood.

Petrovac - Dubrovnik

Its hotel attracts a celebrity clientele. We'll ride on twisty mountain roads again and conquer Lovcen Mountain and the Njegos mausoleum on top of it. In the afternoon we'll reach Dubrovnik, the city of world-famous cultural heritage and beauty. Dubrovnik is situated in Southern Dalmatia, the most beautiful part of the Adriatic coast. Rich vegetation, beautiful lakes, rare islands, white pebble beaches and the crystal clean sea, all make this region to an unforgettable experience for every visitor.

Rest day in Dubrovnik

Also very interesting is a full day boat trip to Mljet island, which of all Adriatic islands may be the most seductive. The highlight of the island is a lake with an islet on which there is a Benedictine monastery. If you feel like riding, Montenegro is within easy reach. So whether you stay around town for the whole day or you just have dinner in one of excellent restaurants, remember, you are in Dubrovnik!

Dubrovnik - Hvar Island

We can stop in Mali Ston, famous for its defensive wall, the longest fortification in Europe, and the best seafood in Croatia. A short ferry will get us to Hvar Island, where we'll ride the twistiest road of the whole trip. Called the "Croatian Medeira", Hvar receives a total of 2.724 hours of sunshine each year, more than anywhere else in the country. Yet the island is luxuriantly green, with brilliant patches of lavender, rosemary and heather.

Rest day on Hvar Island

Explore the numerous sandy beaches on the island and swim in the crystal clear sea, do some water sports or take a boat trip to the spectacular Blue Grotto, an underwater opening in a coastal cave that fills with unearthly blue light every noon. The experience is unforgettable. Also worth exploring is medieval Hvar town with its marble streets and beautifully ornamented buildings, mostly built under Venetian rule. Restaurants and taverns in the town of Hvar offer excellent fish specialties with exquisite local wines.

Hvar Island - Zadar

Passing the scenic islands of Brac and Solta, we'll get to Split, famous for its Diocletian's Palace. On the way further north you can stop in the historical towns of Trogir, Primosten or Sibenik. Finally, we reach the ancient city of Zadar. Once the center of Dalmatia, today Zadar is a preserved monument of various historical times and cultures.

Rest day in Zadar

Zadar is both, an atmospheric time machine and an open air museum. Here on display, you will find some of the most beautiful monuments of architecture and cultural heritage of the eastern Adriatic coast. Zadar, is known for the Roman and Venetian ruins of its peninsular Old Town. There are several Venetian gates in the city walls. Surrounding the Roman-era Forum is 11th-century St. Mary's Convent, with religious art dating to the 8th century. 

Zadar - Porec

The scenery here is truly remarkable when you have the Adriatic Sea on one hand and the steep hillsides of the Velebit mountain range on the other. We’ll make a stop in Opatija, a lush, green seaside resort town with a lovely promenade. Riding further up the coast, our final stop for the night is in Porec, an ancient Roman town, where you can admire the World Heritage–listed basilica, a medley of Gothic, Romanesque and baroque buildings and enjoy a well-developed tourist infrastructure. The pristine Istrian interior is within easy reach.

Rest day in Porec

In the historic old town, the 6th-century Euphrasian Basilica complex is famous for its gem-studded Byzantine mosaics. The coastline north and south of town draws visitors with camping areas, marinas and beaches with water sports. The Roman ruins lovers can also take a ride to Pula and visit the Roman Amphitheater. It's only about 35 km away from Rovinj, a lovely fishing village LACED by steep, cobbled streets and colorful houses rising directly from the sea. Definitely worth a visit.

Porec - Ljubljana

We stop in Motovun, a captivating Tuscan-like little town perched on a hill where for lunch you can try the local specialty – truffles. Than we enter Slovenia once again and spend the rest of the day riding day in the Karst region outside of Ljubljana. It's a fascinating area of disappearing lakes, underground caves, and wonderful wineries. The road winds through green farmland before we approach the city.

Ljubljana, flight home

Depending on the time of your flight back home, you may have time to climb the staircase to the 16th century fortification of Ljubljana Castle that dominates the town before heading out to the airport.

Day 1: Arrival in Ljubljana

Day 2: Ljubljana - Plitvice National Park

Day 3: Plitvice National Park - Sarajevo

Day 4: Rest day in Sarajevo

Day 5: Sarajevo - Mostar

Day 6: Mostar - Zabljak

Day 7: Rest day in Zabljak

Day 8: Zabljak - Petrovac

Day 9: Petrovac - Dubrovnik

Day 10: Rest day in Dubrovnik

Day 11: Dubrovnik - Hvar Island

Day 12: Rest day on Hvar Island

Day 13: Hvar Island - Zadar

Day 14: Rest day in Zadar

Day 15: Zadar - Porec

Day 16: Rest day in Porec

Day 17: Porec - Ljubljana

Day 18: Ljubljana, flight home

VIP & Super VIP Insurance

For a fixed cost of 25 EUR per day VIP Insurance lowers your security deposit for the motorcycle, while Super VIP Insurance reduces your security deposit to zero (0 EUR) and costs 40 EUR per day. VIP and Super VIP Insurances are available on all our tours and rentals of 7 days or more. Riders must have at least 2 years of riding experiences and must be at least 25 or less than 75 years old to obtain VIP or Super VIP Insurance. Riders with less than 2 years of riding experiences are responsible for full motorcycle value. See the chart below:

Balkans and Adriatic Explorer includes:

• Late model motorcycle with lockable top case plus a Third party liability insurance and Comprehensive vehicle insurance.
• Experienced guide on a motorcycle.
• Support van for luggage, souvenir purchases, and one or two passengers.
• 17 nights accommodation in quality, mostly 4**** hotels.
• 17 complete buffet breakfasts in the hotel.
• 11 dinners, mostly in traditional local restaurants.
• 3 ferry rides (according to tour program).
• Guided tour of Sarajevo and Dubrovnik with a local guide.
• Entrance fee to Plitvice National Park.
• Airport transfers up to 5 days prior to the tour start, on the last day of the tour and one day after the tour. 
• All maps with marked routes for the region being toured.
• Extensive tour booklet.
• GPS with all the routes uploaded.

Not included in the price:

Air ticket, dinners on rest days, most lunches, drinks, gasoline, personal spending, tips.

Tour Cancellation Insurance:  more information  HERE.

*2025 prices will be set in October 2024. If the increase compared to the 2024 prices is more than 5%, you can cancel the tour without a fee until Oct 31, 2024.

Balkans Story in Australian Road Rider

30. 06. 2021

The Balkans through the eyes of a motorcycle tour guide - Have a read why Balkans region make for a great motorcycle destination.

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Endless curves | adriatic moto tours sardinia and corsica tour review.

The Sardinia & Corsica – Riders’ Heaven tour was my first guided motorcycle tour. It won’t be my last. For nine days in mid-October, I rode with 10 experienced riders from six countries on intensely winding roads through spectacular scenery. We toured the Mediterranean islands of Sardinia (an autonomous region of Italy) and Corsica (an autonomous region of France). Adriatic Moto Tours made it easy: Just show up with your gear and ride.

Related: European Motorcycle Touring: What to Know Before You Go

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 1: Olbia, Sardinia

After exploring Olbia’s old town on foot, I returned to the hotel to find 10 motorcycles lined up like soldiers awaiting inspection. I recognized a smiling face from the Adriatic Moto Tours website and said hello to Anže Colja, our guide for the Sardinia & Corsica – Riders’ Heaven tour. Six riders in our group had taken an AMT tour before, and one was taking his fifth.

Later, at the introductory briefing, Anže offered insights about riding these Mediterranean islands. “The roads are fantastic,” he said, “the best in Europe. Every day we will ride narrow, twisty, technical roads, but you’re not on a racetrack, you’re on vacation. Can you see far enough to pass? Wait until it’s safe, then commit and go! Take care of each other, and have fun.” 

Born and raised in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, Anže is an economist by training and an affable soul by nature. He speaks Slovenian, English, German, and Croatian, plus enough Italian and French to help us order meals in restaurants that cater to locals rather than tourists. And, as we discovered, he’s one talented rider.

Anže explained that our group would stay united, though not always together, using the system of Static Corner Marking. Anže would always lead, one rider would bring up the rear, and riders in between would alternate “marking” where the route turns by remaining at the junction until the next rider arrives. Each rider also had a GPS with daily routes pre-programmed, so it was hard to get lost. And if we wanted to go on our own, we simply let Anže know.

We also met Peter Cvelbar, who drove the support van and managed tour logistics. Peter is a staff sergeant in the Slovenian Army, and he used a portion of his leave to work this tour. Each morning, we found our bikes wiped down and positioned for a smooth departure, but he did much more. Our luggage was waiting for us in each new hotel room. Bike or equipment issues were quickly addressed. We were given information regarding travel, food, and culture. Both disciplined and easygoing, Peter worked his magic behind the scenes so all we needed to do was ride.

After being assigned bike keys, registration papers, and GPS units, we checked out our machines. I chose a BMW F 900 XR for its torquey twin-cylinder engine, flickable handling, and strong brakes. Its Galvanic Gold colorway certainly stood out too.

When we gathered for dinner, a guide’s principal value – local knowledge – was revealed. In Olbia’s old town, Anže led us off the main pedestrian way and along a succession of narrow cobblestone alleys, past a sign declaring “NO PIZZA,” and downstairs to an intimate restaurant. Staff were expecting us, and our table was waiting. After dessert, we returned to the hotel and traded stories on the portico, eagerly anticipating the next day’s ride. (Breakfast and dinner are included on this tour. Riders pay for their lunch, alcoholic drinks, and fuel.)

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 2: Olbia – Ajaccio

Our first day riding took us north along the famous Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) and past the granite and basalt rock formations that form the two islands. The route was scenic and curvy, but Anže said we hadn’t seen anything yet.

In Santa Teresa, we caught a ferry to Bonifacio, Corsica, a historic city on a cliff, and then rode north toward Ajaccio, birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte and the capital of Corsica. The roads to Ajaccio became tight and technical, with curves that just kept coming.

Along the coastal road in Coti-Chiavari, I spied an unpaved lay-by with a stellar view, so I pulled over. While shooting photos, I walked up to the highest rocky point. A man was sitting there, seemingly alone with his thoughts, but he gestured for me to join him. “Parlez-vous anglaise?” I asked, hoping he spoke English. He shook his head. “Non.” So instead of talking, we shared the dramatic vista in silence. After a while I said, “Au revoir,” and we shook hands genuinely, cementing a friendship of coincidence. 

At dinner in Ajaccio, Anže asked the group which of the next day’s two route options we preferred. I was leaning toward the longer option (more riding), but he suggested the shorter option through the sparsely populated interior. “Less traffic,” Anže assured me. “And twistier.” Local knowledge proved its worth once again.

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 3: Ajaccio – Corte

Corsica has more mountains and rivers than any Mediterranean island, and the roads hug the constantly changing landscape. After a mid-morning break for coffee, we rode to the Calanques de Piana, spiky granite formations that rise from the sea in shades of red, brown, and orange. The road is carved into their sides. Places to stop and safely enjoy the view are few, but Anže knew just the spot. I set up a group photo against a red rock backdrop; that one’s going in a frame.

Next, we turned inland for the mountain route. Flat land is rare on Corsica, so it’s common to see cows grazing along the road. They seemed accustomed to motorcycles passing by, but we slowed down and gave them space. I had to wait as two cows crossed a one-lane bridge at a leisurely cow pace. We also encountered large pigs foraging in the road on fallen chestnuts. Later, Anže explained that Napoleon had planted chestnut trees along roads in lands he controlled to provide his troops with shade and a source of food. The pigs appreciated that too.

We continued curving and gaining elevation. Our hotel in Corte overlooked the rugged landscape we rode through. The view from my room was stunning. For dinner, I chose local pork (chestnut fed?) roasted for six hours and served with cannellini beans. It was succulent – definitely not your mom’s pork-and-beans.

See all of Rider ‘s International Touring stories here

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 4: Corte – Bonifacio

Anže mentioned at our first rider briefing that he’s an instructor at a high performance riding school. I rode behind him as we ascended mountains through one hairpin turn after another. I noticed he was looking back at me in his mirrors – always the instructor.

We built a fair distance between us and the next rider, so Anže pulled into a lay-by to regroup. While we waited, I asked how I was doing through the hairpins and what I could do better. He suggested looking even deeper into corners and modulating speed in turns using the rear brake instead of rolling off. On these roads, I practiced this technique over and over. When our group stopped in Cozzano, Anže and I continued the lesson over coffee.

That evening, we caught a dazzling sunset from the limestone cliffs at Bouches de Bonifacio, a nature reserve. After some free time exploring the narrow, cobbled alleys of Bonifacio’s old town, Anže led us to a small restaurant that caters to Corsicans.

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 5: Bonifacio – Alghero

As we boarded the ferry that brought us there three days ago, we left behind the most intense, continuous twisties I’ve ever ridden. Anže assured me there would be more in Sardinia. Along the route in Località Multeddu, we visited Elephant Rock, which lives up to its name. Farther on, we stopped at the coastal town of Castelsardo, known for colorful homes built into the mountainside above the sea.

We savored more twisties and sparse traffic until we approached our destination of Alghero. In this historic and congested city, Static Corner Marking kept the group united. We all arrived safely at our hotel as the sun was setting over Rada di Alghero.

The Carlo V Hotel and Spa is rated five stars. It’s the fanciest hotel I’ve ever visited while riding a motorcycle. Throughout this tour, our accommodations exceeded my expectations. The dinners were impressive as well. Each evening, Anže ably selected starters for the table, then we all ordered a la carte from the menu.

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 6: Rest Day in Alghero

A day away from continuous, intense twisties afforded my mind and body a well-earned break. Fueled by a growing Italian vocabulary, a willingness to wander, and two scoops of mid-morning gelato, I explored the sprawling old town. After lunch, four of us enjoyed afternoon cocktails and a swim in the hotel pool, which wasn’t heated – brrrr!

When my stomach signaled it was ready for dinner, I searched for cucina tipica Sarda (typical Sardinian cuisine) and chose pescata de giorno (catch of the day). The server took me to select the specific fish the chef would prepare for me. “You like grilled with patatas and pomodori, signore?” Sì, grazie. The chef served my dish tableside, and everything was delicious. A lemony concoction arrived for dessert, then I ordered a dram of 16-year-old scotch to complete the experience. Walking back to our hotel, I ran into tour members dining al fresco on the seaside promenade. We all had a good day off.

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 7: Alghero – Cala Gonone

Refreshed and ready, we followed Anže along the winding coastal road south to Bosa. As we rolled through town, a smiling old woman stood on her stoop and waved to us. I blew her a kiss in return, and by the look of her reaction, I suspected it made her day.

We kept twisting east on roads less traveled through Macomer and on to our first stop, the Nuraghe Losa of Abbasanta. It’s one of thousands of cyclopean stone monuments unique to Sardinia and built by a Bronze Age people called the Nuraghi between 1,600 BCE and 1,200 BCE. Anže arranged a private tour, and a delightful woman named Pina helped us appreciate the monuments and the people who built them.

Over lunch, Anže reminded us to embrace Sardinia’s offering to riders: roads with practically perfect grip and corners that seem to continue forever. AMT schedules the Riders’ Heaven tour twice a year: in spring (before tourist season begins) and in fall (after it’s over). That’s why these roads were largely ours.

For afternoon coffee, we stopped in Orgosolo, which has murals painted on buildings throughout the town. Most feature themes of social resistance, and many seem informed by the style of Picasso’s Guernica. 

Next, we carved curves down the mountains to Cala Gonone. Our hotel was across the street from the Mediterranean Sea, and several of us enjoyed a swim before dinner. Thankfully, the water was warmer than the hotel pool in Alghero. After dinner and more conversation, I retired for the night to the sound of waves crashing ashore outside my window.

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 8: Cala Gonone – Olbia

After following closely behind Anže for several days, I volunteered to bring up the rear, which presented opportunities to enjoy scenery that wasn’t whooshing past in a blur. Beyond Lula, we gained elevation along a meandering road chiseled into the mountainside. Up to the east were bald peaks reaching skyward. Off to the west was a rolling valley of green forest interrupted occasionally by terraced farmland. A road was carved into the next distant mountain too, leading to a village perched on a rocky hillside. Farther west were multiple rows of rock-topped mountains fading into the horizon.

From Nuoro to Bitti, the roads zigged and zagged through cork plantations and over mountains. Eventually we reached Olbia and concluded this incredible journey at the same hotel where it started. Peter welcomed us with champagne, and we raised our glasses in celebration. What a trip it had been!

At our final dinner, Anže told me that Sardinia and Corsica are his favorite places to ride, without question. “Not for the sights or food, which are still good, but for the roads, which are insanely good. The grip is great, the curves have positive camber, and you just keep twisting through mountains, forests, and coastlines. And off-season, when the crowds are gone, you can just go.”

AMT’s Riders’ Heaven tour was a fantastic experience for me at every level: bike, roads, routes, scenery, sights, cities, towns, people, food, accommodations, leadership, logistics – the whole package. And leveraging a guide’s local knowledge brings it all together.

In 2023, the Sardinia & Corsica – Riders’ Heaven tour runs May 13-21 and Oct. 14-22. Visit the Adriatic Moto Tours website for more information.

The post Endless Curves | Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Tour Review first appeared on Rider Magazine . Source: RiderMagazine.com

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Adriatic Moto Tours’ Western Alps Adventure Review

What do Evian spring water, Gruyère cheese, and St. Bernard dogs have in common? Prior to going on the Western Alps Adventure with Adriatic Moto Tours, I didn’t have a clue. But on the seven-day motorcycle tour through Italy, Switzerland, and France this past July, we got to visit the places where these things originated.

No one goes to the Alps – especially not motorcyclists – for overpriced bottled water, strong cheese, or big slobbering dogs. We go for the roads, particularly the winding sort that rise and fall as they crest passes where the air is ethereal and the sky is so blue it looks like a backdoor to heaven.

We go to lose ourselves in wonder, to have our heads in the clouds – literally and figuratively – as we take in heart-achingly beautiful vistas and admire peaks and valleys worth fighting wars over.

But, ugh, planning a motorcycle trip through the Alps is such a pain. How will you rent a bike? What route should you take? Where should you stay? Where should you eat? And what’s French for “I’ll have another large beer, please”?

Instead, I rely on the experts, the folks who have scouted the routes, the hotels, and the restaurants. It’s all new to me anyway, so I’ll take a curated, stress-free experience over being my own bumbling tour guide any day.

Related: Endless Curves | Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Tour Review

I flew into Milan, Italy, a day early to get acclimated. Coincidentally, I arrived on the same flight as Jim, an attorney from Seattle who’s a veteran of more than a dozen tours with Adriatic Moto Tours.

After checking into our hotel, a former royal villa built in the early 1900s that now has modern air-conditioned rooms, a restaurant, and a lovely pool, Jim and I took the train into Milan to visit the Duomo, one of the largest cathedrals in the world.

The next day, we met our guides and fellow riders. In addition to Jim and me, we met a third American, David, a tanned retiree from Florida. Hailing from Canada were Ben from Toronto and Simon and Marie-Claude from Quebec City, and there was Linda from Australia and Malcolm from New Zealand. Matej, our tour leader, and Jure, our van driver, are both experienced guides from AMT’s home country of Slovenia, and they kept the tour running like a well-oiled machine. Everyone was easy to get along with, and we quickly gelled as a group and shared inside jokes and friendly comments on WhatsApp.

AMT’s rental fleet includes mostly BMWs plus a few Ducati, Harley-Davidson, Honda, Suzuki, and Yamaha models. Bikes come equipped with a top box and a GPS unit pre-programmed with daily routes, which allows riders to venture off on their own without worrying about getting lost or finding the hotel. Accommodations on this tour were comfortable and charming, our luggage was always delivered to our room before check-in, and meals were delicious and unique to local areas.

Some tours start off gradually, but the Western Alps Adventure kicked off like a cowabunga cannonball into the deep end of the pool. After a short stint on the freeway to get out of Milan, we crossed into Switzerland, and it was game on.

First, we summited Nufenen Pass. Next, we stopped at the Hotel Belvedere, which is situated inside a hairpin overlooking the Rhône Glacier and was featured in a car chase scene in the 1964 James Bond film Goldfinger. Then we climbed a little higher to Furka Pass, all before having lunch in the ski resort town of Andermatt.

While trying to digest quattro stagioni pizza, we rocked and rolled our way to Susten Pass. Down, down, down we went into the valley before making our fourth and final climb of the day to Grimsel Pass, where our hotel was located on the shore of a postcard-perfect alpine lake. Before dinner, a few of us took a bonus ride on a narrow panoramic road that goes to a glacier.

We ended our first day with beers on the patio overlooking the lake and a comfort food dinner of potato soup, veal piccata with pasta, and panna cotta. Sleep was well-earned, deep, and enhanced by clean, cool alpine air drifting in through the windows.

Day 2 started with sunrise over Grimsel Lake and a hearty Swiss breakfast, fortifying us for another full day of riding. Bombing back down the winding road from Grimsel Pass with zero traffic was like being on a private track.

After that early burst of adrenaline, the rest of the day was mellow. We rode into a valley of high cliffs with glacier-fed waterfalls and had coffee near Lauterbrunnen. We had lunch in Gruyères, a medieval walled hilltop village where we had the eponymous cheese mixed in a shredded potato dish called rösti. In the afternoon, we summited Jaun Pass and crossed into France for an overnight stop in Évian-les-Bains, a city on Lake Geneva that sends its bottled mineral water around the world.

Riding in the Alps is like a yo-yo: up and down, mountain to valley, valley to mountain, again and again, with hairpins, sweepers, and every conceivable type of curve. Day 3 was scenic, pleasant, and exotic enough to remind us that we were far from home, experiencing another part of the world. We had coffee in Annecy, known as the “Venice of France” because of the canals that run through the old town, and then lunch at an outdoor cafe at Col de Granier, a notch carved in the Massif de Chartreuse. At our hotel in the ski area of Villard-de-Lans, we had a gourmet dinner on a patio with mountains rising all around us.

On Day 4, we rode through the damp, dark, narrow Gorge de la Bourne, where the road cuts into the limestone walls as it runs along a mountain stream. We climbed high and rode Combe Laval, one of France’s “balcony” roads chiseled into and through limestone cliffs. Then we summited several passes – Col de la Machine, Col de Rosset, and Col de Grimone – and cruised through fertile valleys full of sunflowers and lavender.

Make no mistake, this is a rider’s tour, with days full of twisties, climbs, and descents and minimal sightseeing. On Day 5, our rest day, we forfeited the “rest” part and rode over Col de Vars and into the thin air of Mercantour National Park. Just below Col de la Bonette, we relaxed in Adirondack chairs and sipped coffee in the pure alpine air on a bluebird day and then looped around the treeless Cime de la Bonette. What goes up must come down, and we retraced our route for a totally different experience. Every right became a left, every foot of climbing became a descent.

Day 6, July 14, was Bastille Day, France’s national holiday, and we celebrated by bagging four alpine passes, including Col de Montgenèvre and Col du Mont-Cenis, where we rode along the shore of a turquoise lake. After having oven-fired pizzas on a patio for lunch, the high point of the day was climbing more than 3,000 feet in 8 miles through green mountains covered with wildflowers and cut deeply by snowmelt waterfalls and creeks to Col de l’Iseran (9,068 feet), the highest paved pass in the Alps.

After our fourth pass of the day, Col du Petit St-Bernard, where we crossed back into Italy, we rode through the 7.2-mile Mont Blanc Tunnel. We emerged back in France near our hotel in Chamonix, a bustling alpine city full of hikers, mountain climbers, and tourists.

We began our last day with a gondola ride to the top of Aiguille du Midi to see Mont Blanc (15,778 feet), the highest mountain in Western Europe, and the surrounding peaks and glaciers. After summiting Col de la Forclaz, we began the long climb to our last pass, Col du Grand St-Bernard, where a hospice founded in 1049 used St. Bernard dogs in mountain rescues.

Upon arriving back in Milan, Matej and Jure popped corks on bottles of prosecco, and we all toasted to a fantastic tour. Grazie mille , Adriatic Moto Tours!

The next Western Alps Adventure runs July 13-21, 2024. Visit the Adriatic Moto Tours website for more information.

See all of Rider ‘s international touring stories here.

The post Adriatic Moto Tours’ Western Alps Adventure Review appeared first on Rider Magazine .

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