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Brake Pedal Travel

Post by DocFubar » Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:52 pm

Re: Brake Pedal Travel

Post by jam_rs » Sun Oct 18, 2015 1:58 pm

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• Fiesta ST Forums
• Suspension, Brakes & Chassis

Brake Pedal Soft, Poor Pedal Response, Suggestions Needed, Deep Into the Problem Already....

• Thread starter slyez
• Start date Jun 15, 2022

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HOW TO FIX EXCESSIVE BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL

What Is Excessive Brake Pedal Travel?

Excessive brake pedal travel happens when you feel your pedal sinking rapidly while braking, or sitting lower than usual when activating your vehicle’s brakes. This can happen due to wobbly discs knocking pistons back or air in the braking system.

Performing DIY brake repair to fix excessive brake pedal travel can be a tedious task. Follow the steps below to diagnose and repair your sinking brakes.

How to Fix Excessive Brake Pedal Travel

1. Diagnose the Problem . To diagnose issues with the master cylinder, the first thing you need to do is remove the lines, install brass or plastic plugs into the outlets, and apply the brakes. What happens when you apply the brakes will tell you what issue your vehicle is having. You can continue this process of elimination by isolating each wheel.

2. Use Your Parking Brake. If you don’t typically engage your parking brake, the parking brake can be key in figuring out if your car is suffering from excessive brake pedal travel. If the parking brake doesn’t properly engage, that generally means a low pedal.

3. Bleed the Brakes. Bleeding your brakes is an important step in brake pedal travel repair and other brake issues. Use a jelly jar half full of brake fluid and a short hose to depress your brake pedal.

While depressing the pedal, rotate the star wheel to lose up the clearance. Then, go back one click when the wheel scrapes. It’s best to have a partner on hand when bleeding your brakes.

4. Bleed the Master Cylinders . After bleeding the brakes, bleeding the master cylinders is the next step. In traditional systems, you begin with the longest line in the circuit first, and go from the right rear, left rear, right front, and left the front. In diagonally split systems, the order is right rear, left front, left rear, and right front. Flush out the bleeder valves, and finally, remove the air from your master cylinder.

If you’re not sure which type of system your vehicle is or are unaware of the proper tools needed to fix excessive brake pedal travel, it’s best to bring your vehicle into Brake Works.

With two convenient locations with great weekend hours, getting proper brake maintenance is simpler than you think. Contact our team of certified specialists to schedule an appointment.

Erika Suarez

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Throttle/pedal assist not working consistently, cable connection issue?

• Thread starter meattree
• Start date Jun 25, 2020
• Jun 25, 2020

Hello! I received my NCM Moscow Plus (my first ebike!) from Leon Cycle Canada via Amazon a few days ago, and after putting it together the throttle/PAS did nothing. I fiddled with cables and went through some general troubleshooting and it worked for a while but then after a day of riding again the throttle and PAS stopped working. Here is what I know so far: Battery works, charger works, display works, the spedometer shows the correct speed when I am using only human power to pedal. The top-left section of the display that shows bars representing the electric power being used to push the bike - this worked when the throttle/PAS was working, now it shows nothing aside from the word "power". I have disconnected and reconnected the main display cable and the lower frame cable leading to the motor, several times, connecting them as securely as possible. This is what initially fixed the situation and made the throttle/PAS operational for a while. Then it stopped working and no matter how much I push these cables together I can't get it to work again. I contacted NCM but I thought it might be worth asking here, I just want to get the bike working and go ride. Thanks.  

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meattree said: Hello! I received my NCM Moscow Plus (my first ebike!) from Leon Cycle Canada via Amazon a few days ago, and after putting it together the throttle/PAS did nothing. I fiddled with cables and went through some general troubleshooting and it worked for a while but then after a day of riding again the throttle and PAS stopped working. Here is what I know so far: Battery works, charger works, display works, the spedometer shows the correct speed when I am using only human power to pedal. The top-left section of the display that shows bars representing the electric power being used to push the bike - this worked when the throttle/PAS was working, now it shows nothing aside from the word "power". I have disconnected and reconnected the main display cable and the lower frame cable leading to the motor, several times, connecting them as securely as possible. This is what initially fixed the situation and made the throttle/PAS operational for a while. Then it stopped working and no matter how much I push these cables together I can't get it to work again. I contacted NCM but I thought it might be worth asking here, I just want to get the bike working and go ride. Thanks. Click to expand...

I've already contacted them through Amazon, very quick response considering the amount of flak their customer service seems to get. With the information I've provided they have diagnosed this as a controller issue. They've let me know that they are sending out a new controller and will be paying for a local shop to install it. Thrilled with the support so far, and very happy with the bike aside from this one issue.  

Excellent to hear! I have the same bike... you'll love it once you get it running!  

For sure, I did manage to trick it into working for a few battery charges' worth before the problem returned and it was really fun while it lasted. Can't wait to get it back.  

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Taxi driver says drove into people in Moscow after mixing up gas, brake pedals

(Adds quotes, detail)

MOSCOW, June 18 (Reuters) - A Kyrgyz taxi driver who drove his car into pedestrians near the Kremlin told a Moscow court on Monday he had mistaken the accelerator for the brake pedal because he had not slept for two days before the accident.

"I don't remember what happened. It seems my brain was so tired from not getting enough sleep and I mixed up accelerator and brake pedals. I fully admit my guilt," 28-year-old Chingiz Anarbek, the driver, testified in Kyrgyz, which was translated into Russian.

"I apologise for everything I've done. I had not slept for two days. I had to earn money for my family."

After Anarbek's testimony, the court remanded him in custody for two months pending trial.

Russian officials said up to seven people were hurt in Saturday's incident, including two Mexicans who came to Moscow for the soccer World Cup that Russia is hosting.

A video of the incident posted on social media showed the yellow taxi pull sharply out of a line of stationary traffic, accelerate and mount the narrow pavement, which was packed with pedestrians.

The driver jumped out of the car and ran away, pursued by bystanders. Anarbek told the court he had fled because he was afraid that the crowd could kill him. (Reporting by Polina Nikolskaya Writing by Maria Tsvetkova Editing by Mark Heinrich)

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• Ford Fiesta Club

Bled brakes remain spongy

By Vinjy, October 23, 2018 in Ford Fiesta Club

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I just bought a Ford Fiesta Titanium 2010 and I have noticed that the brakes were spongy. Let me describe in greater detail. On pressing the brake pedal, there is about 5cm of travel that starts the braking but does very little to reduce your speed and then it feels like the brakes engage properly, stiffen up and stop the car. So, about 75% "spongy travel" and then it bites and you get 25% actual proper braking. The pedal does not go to the floor. The brakes do stop the car but it's that long initial travel that annoys me because when driving slow in trafic it takes time to get used to where the brake "bite point" in and it shouldn't be like that.

So what's been done so far? The system has been bled by the mechanic twice, the rear drums adjusted (and the handbrake cables changed whilst there) and then bled again. This did nothing to solve the problem. Then the master cylinder was replaced and the system pressure bled at the mechanics about 3 more times. Nothing changed. The whole system was checked for any leaks and nothing was found, the fluid level does not change, always on full.  

Engine off, pumping the brake stiffens it right up after a few pumps and when the engine is switched on it goes soft again. 

The car has ESP and ABS and I have read that these systems must be bled with a diagnostic tool that Ford has or perhaps the ABS unit is faulty (I get no error codes or lights though)? 

Does anyone have experience similar to this or perhaps some troubleshooting tips that would help me home in on the problem?

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I had similar issues, replaced a corroded brake pipe that ran into the ABS pump. Air got into the system and is impossible to get rid of when the engine is switched off. You either need diagnostic equipment (such as Forscan) to carry out the procedure or with the engine running carry out the brake bleeding procedure. I did the latter with no access to Forscan at the time which resolved the issue.   

That is if there is air in the ABS system... 

I had a spongy brake pedal after changing the calipers and although the car would stop the amount of travel was very off putting I ended up buying a USB to diagnostic cable and got-  https://forscan.org/  which allowed me to do a proper brake bleed  now the pedal feels great and the car really pulls up nice.

Thanks guys, I'm going to look in to the Forscan option and read more into this particular option on the other post on the forum and come back. 

Probably New abs module required, Common issue.but a master bleed is the first to try with diagnostics

Worth checking the flexible brake hoses.

I had a car once that had a slightly soft brake pedal, but it also pulled a little when applying the brakes.

Turned out that a flexible hose was damaged and the initial brake pressure on one side just caused hose the expand, so pressure on this side was wasted until hose could expand no more, then finally pressure would operate the pistons in the calliper.

Replaced both front hoses, and it cured my issue. No idea if this could be your issue, but worth looking to see if there is any signs of hose expanding whilst someone presses brake pedal.

• 2 months later...

Hi guys, been a while since I played with the fiesta but I did try the service bleed function with Forscan and fully bled the brakes. Unfortunately that has not solved anything. I have double, triple and quadruple-checked for any leaks anywhere and nothing, the fluid level doesn't chance, there are no error codes, no warning lights but the pedal is still spongy. I have convinced myself that the ABS module is the next to be changed and wondered if anyone has done this before and if there is a guide that they know of for a 2010 Fiesta ABS Replacement or a youtube video, maybe haynes has it? I have searched and not found anything comprehensive. I also saw that it may be necessary to code the replacement ABS module to the car, is that true? Can it be done in ForScan?

Look forward to any suggestions, thanks 🙂

Before you change the ABS module, are you absolutely sure it's not a design characteristic of the car?

Don't mean to sound patronising, but when I first bought my Fiesta I noticed that there was a fair bit of travel in the brake pedal. I was about to start bleeding the system, but as the car was less than three years old and low mileage I thought I'd look around online to see if it was an issue. I didn't find a cure, but I saw a few posts that suggested some travel isn't uncommon. After a while I got used to it, and it's passed two MOTs no problem.

It's subjective of course, and you have to be happy in your own mind that it's safe, but you could try getting a third opinion. Is an MOT due any time soon?

Don't worry about sounding patronising, I have no desire to do any work to the car to be honest unless I absolutely have to. I keep trying to convince myself that I am worrying about nothing and it's just designed to be the way it is but I compare it to my 2014 Golf where you need what feels like 5cm of travel to go from nothing to wheels locking up as you progressively push down on the pedal. Whereas in the Fiesta you apply the brake and you get nothing for about 5cm then you get about 75% of braking action instantly and the brake "bites" hard and after that nothing more as you continue to push the pedal further. I have slammed the brakes hard on it before as someone braked in front of me and almost pooed myself as the car just kept going. I have also tried to get the wheels to lock up (and ABS kick in) by pushing the pedal hard to the floor the other day but they never locked up and just slowed me down from 40 to 0. We just had some snow so I'll see if I can take it to an empty car park and at least try to get the ABS on that way. 

Sounds like the abs module does indeed need changing, I've done quite a few due the the pedal travel. 

OK, sorry, more to it than I realised! ABS problems seem to have been an issue in the past, and I'm a relative newcomer to Ford ownership. Good luck getting it sorted.

Don't worry fleamoo 🙂 I apreciate all help and feedback. Does anyone know if the haynes manual has the ABS replacement procedure in it? Any other guides that anyone knows, I've never done ABS replacement. 

1 hour ago, Vinjy said: Don't worry fleamoo 🙂 I apreciate all help and feedback. Does anyone know if the haynes manual has the ABS replacement procedure in it? Any other guides that anyone knows, I've never done ABS replacement. 

Yes it does, just checked my manual and it's all there. Sections  Braking system 9.17  and 9.18  This is for years 2013-2017 i see your car is 2010, no idea if that makes any difference.

• 3 years later...

I have a 2012 Ford Fiesta in which the brake pedal is spongy and not enough pressure. I have bleeded the brakes twice, replace master cylinder and brake booster. Since I replace the brake booster my brake pedal didn't want stop my car. I had to put it in park right away. No ABS light showing on dadhboard. I called Ford Dealership and they replace the ABS module in 2009. Someone please help!

Having read through this thread I can't see that you've checked the slave cylinder.  I had a similar problem years ago and it proved to be the slave cylinder.

On 9/17/2022 at 9:59 PM, Bethg0203 said: I called Ford Dealership and they replace the ABS module in 2009

I don't understand, you have a 2012 car.

What country are you in ? What engine and gearbox do you have ?

Edit: 26th September. - Clearly your lack of brakes is not an urgent problem since you have not been back to the forum todate since your original post

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Heel and Toe Pedal Position

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Has anyone carried out any mods to the accelerator pedal? I'm trying to improve my heel and toe technique but to be honest I'm completely pants. I'm either hard on the anchors or over revving the donk. I cant help but feel the go pedal is too low and to the right. Any mods or advice available?  

Practice, practice, practice, practice, practice. That's the only way. I find the pedal setup just fine for it myself. I have uploaded a short clip of me doing it on my YouTube channel, can't find or link to it now though as on my phone with dodgy hotel internet connection only.  

Read this on another forum. http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/12_month_car_reviews/1503-2014-ford-fiesta-st-devil-in-the-details/#__federated=1  

MarksST said: Read this on another forum. http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/12_month_car_reviews/1503-2014-ford-fiesta-st-devil-in-the-details/#__federated=1 Click to expand...

Practice is the only way forward. Fiesta is the best car I've driven for pedal position. Much better than old Focus ST. Once you master it, the reward from getting it bang on will mean you do it all the time! And people still think an auto is as involving?!?  

Here's my video... No pedal repositioning needed for me. The mk7 isn't the best thing to learn in though, the brakes are way too heavily assisted which does make maintaining a consistent brake pedal pressure much more of a challenge. As said though keep practising, you'll not pick it up in a day or week, it takes time to develop the feel for it.  

I like it, nice vid. I've had to adapt my technique slightly after I tore my ankle ligament a few years ago and it's never 100% healed, so I have to rotate more than I'd like, almost a bit of a leg shift rather than just an ankle roll. To the OP, this example just shows that you can adapt it to your method/style. The basics are to break and blip, how you do it is what's comfy for you. Also, don't practice this at slow speeds around town, as when you first do it, you need to be pushing the brake enough to get the feel for them and give enough time to train yourself into the movements of blipping the throttle. At slow speeds you'll hit the brakes too soft, won't get the revs right and then get fed up and give in thinking its too hard. Watch the above vid and you'll see that the speed the movement starts is 60mph ish, you're then pushing the anchors hard enough to go through the motions. You can always first try just blipping the throttle when changing down, this will give you more of an idea of what amount of revs work best for down changes before you start adding brakes into the mix!  

Been messing around with this myself recently and have decided it's just not practical for the road. Main reason being im never braking hard enough to need it or get the pedal travel needed so it's comfy to do.  

As G-Funk-Alicious says do try and get the art of simple rev matching without braking working for you first before you start worrying about brake pedal pressure or position. A good place to practice heel and toe, or left foot braking but that's another thread entirely, are quiet motorway exit slip roads. Often a good half mile long, you can see clearly if there's anyone behind or in front to worry about, and if there's lights at the end that you can see are red you can practice 5 consecutive downshifts with the aim simply of being as smooth as possible.  

Ziffbobbit said: Been messing around with this myself recently and have decided it's just not practical for the road. Main reason being im never braking hard enough to need it or get the pedal travel needed so it's comfy to do. Click to expand...

How does heel and toe make your day to day driving smoother?  

Rob084551 said: How does heel and toe make your day to day driving smoother? Click to expand...

Horrible, jerky gear change  

MarkCup said: Drive along at 55 mph in third then shift down to second gear and bring the clutch up. What happens? Click to expand...

MarksST said: Is that a normal thing to do on day to day driving then? Click to expand...

Rob084551 said: I see what your getting at, but realistically on the road why would you drive along at 55mph then suddenly down change to second? Click to expand...

MarkCup said: ... it's simply an extreme example of, for the purposes of illustrating, what happens every single time you down shift without rev matching. Click to expand...

Which was the point I was originally getting at, there is no need to heel and toe on the road.  

While I do use this technique most of the time because I just love doing it and to me it's part of the fun of driving a manual car, I don't find the ST pedal position that good. It's OK, but not perfect. Oddly, I find it much easier to do in my Yeti as the OEM pedal position in that is pretty much spot on. Which is very odd.  

I tried it, all I managed to do was smash the brake as it is a lot higher than the accelerator, slowed down, and then revved :lol:  

pengelly88 said: I tried it, all I managed to do was smash the brake as it is a lot higher than the accelerator, slowed down, and then revved :lol: Click to expand...

I just don't get it! Like when I first tried to brake with my left foot... hello dashboard  

i just love rev matching pulling upto traffic lights as they are changing or preparing to join a ropundabout from 60mph, dual carrageways etc, i just love the noise.... cant wait for my MT Exhaust to get more noises lol. :biggrin:  

pengelly88 said: I just don't get it! Like when I first tried to brake with my left foot... hello dashboard Click to expand...

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