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What will Indonesia's new laws mean for tourists and visitors, and why are there concerns around its unmarried sex ban?

Tourists may have concerns about Indonesia's new criminal code that includes a ban on sex outside of marriage, but experts say travellers likely will not have to worry too much about some of the new laws.

Key points:

• DFAT has added the new laws to their travel advice for Indonesia, but did not raise the risk level
• Experts say the unmarried sex ban is not likely to be much of an issue for tourists
• Parts of the new code target drunken and loud behaviour, and make disrespecting holy places punishable with jail time

That's despite the controversial revisions of the colonial-era penal code that are leaving some in the tourism industry worried travellers may be deterred from visiting.

With foreign arrivals to Bali expected to reach pre-pandemic levels of 6 million by 2025, Indonesia's national tourism board has described the new code as "totally counterproductive".

But others are less concerned about any crackdown in Indonesia, a nation of 17,000 islands where citizens predominantly practise a moderate version of Islam.

Arie Ermawati — manager of Bali's Oberoi Hotel — said he didn't expect many problems from the new rules.

"The regulation just makes it clearer than what we have at the moment, that only certain people have the right to lodge a complaint," he said.

"We are not worried and don't feel that it will impact our business."

The changes to the criminal code will take up to three years to come into effect, and could still be challenged in the courts.

Sex rules unlikely to trouble tourists

The Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade (DFAT) has added the new laws to their travel advice for Indonesia, but did not raise the risk level.

"Indonesian parliament has passed revisions to its criminal code, which includes penalties for cohabitation and sex outside of marriage," DFAT said on its website.

"These revisions will not come into force for three years.

"You're subject to all local laws and penalties, including those that may appear harsh by Australian standards. Research local laws before travelling."

The head of tourism in Badung, which covers popular tourist areas Kuta and Nusa Dua, said foreigners should not be concerned.

"All tourists who are currently here already or potential tourists don't need to worry because they will still be treated as usual," I Nyoman Rudiarta told Detik News.

"There will be no sweeping legal action against tourists."

Handy Heryudhitawan, the general manager of Bali's main airport, said international flights, including from Australia, were continuing to operate normally.

Simon Butt — a professor and director of the centre for Asian and Pacific law at the University of Sydney's law school — said the sex ban for unmarried couples was unlikely to affect tourists.

"Provided that no such complaints are made to Indonesian police," Professor Butt warned.

"Police cannot proceed with investigating adultery or cohabitation without a complaint.

"Not just anyone can make a complaint."

And, until the new code comes in, Indonesia's existing ban on adultery, but not premarital sex, remains in place. 

Ken Setiawan — from the the Asia Institute at the University of Melbourne — said that, because a report could only be filed by family members, it reduced the risk of tourists being charged.

"There is a limitation as to who can file the report," Professor Setiawan told the ABC.

"Those limitations are there. That does decrease the risk that foreigners would be prosecuted."

However, if people are prosecuted, they would face up to a year in jail or a maximum fine of 10 million rupiahs ($955).

Revellers will need to be careful

Those heading to Indonesia to party may find themselves facing a similar fine, if they are prosecuted under a part of the new code.

"Anyone who is drunk in a public place and disturbs public order, or threatens the safety of other people, shall be punished with a maximum fine of 10 million Rupiahs," the new code's Article 316 said.

Further to that, anyone who gives an already intoxicated person more drinks faces a year in jail.

There are also provisions that allow for people to be fined for "making uproar" or being too noisy in neighbourhoods at night or making false alarm calls.

Under the rules about possession, importing and distributing of drugs, anyone caught faces a minimum three years in prison or maximum 20 years in prison, depending on the type and quantity of drugs.

Anyone caught with pornography faces at least 6 months in jail, while those caught having sex in public will be sentenced to a year in prison.

People visiting temples in Bali will have to ensure they don't disrespect holy places, including statues and offerings on the street.

Otherwise they risk being sent to jail for up to a year.

Many of these provisions requires someone to make a formal report to the police and may not be actively enforced without complaints being lodged.

Danger from vague defamation laws

Dr Setiawan said another key issue was around the provisions that impinge on the right to freedom of expression.

That includes things such as defaming the president or vice-president, or members of public institutions.

"They're very broadly and vaguely formulated," Dr Setiawan said.

"And that is actually the danger of them.

"Because of that, they can be applied to anyone, and that includes foreigners."

For example, the code allows for a jail sentence of up to four years for anyone "who broadcasts, performs or posts writing or pictures so that they are visible to the public, playing recordings so that it is heard by the public, or disseminates it by means of information technology containing attacks on the honour or dignity of the president or vice-president".

Who is at risk?

Dr Setiawan said she was concerned the new laws could be used to target the LGBT community.

"In Indonesia, marriage is just between a man and a woman," she told the ABC.

"Therefore, these laws do place risks for members of the LGBT community, because gay marriage is illegal in Indonesia.

"Apart from the sex outside marriage provision, there's also a provision that prohibits cohabitation, so that also makes it possible that gay couples that live together in Indonesia can be arrested."

Professor Butt said there was also a provision on "immoral acts" that could extend to public affection between people of the same gender.

There would also be high risks, from human rights perspective, for religious minority groups and women's rights, Dr Setiawan said.

"This reform was really overdue, but it is not a step towards a more liberal democracy," she said.

She described the changes to the code as a "really concerning development".

"It's very important to remember the concerns that the international community has, but it is that Indonesians will live with this on a daily basis," she said.

"This is not really a step in the right direction."

While there was the potential for people to be caught out by the new laws, Andreas Harsono — an Indonesian researcher for Human Rights Watch — said the code could not be effectively policed.

"The law will not be implemented fully … but it will provide an avenue for extortion and bribes," Mr Harsono said.

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Bali reopens to foreign travelers as COVID-19 surge subsides

The Associated Press

A beach vendor sets chairs as he waits for customers in Kuta beach in Bali, Indonesia, on Thursday. The Indonesian resort island of Bali welcomed international travelers to its shops and white-sand beaches for the first time in more than a year Thursday - if they're vaccinated, test negative, hail from certain countries, quarantine and heed restrictions in public. Firdia Lisnawati/AP hide caption

A beach vendor sets chairs as he waits for customers in Kuta beach in Bali, Indonesia, on Thursday. The Indonesian resort island of Bali welcomed international travelers to its shops and white-sand beaches for the first time in more than a year Thursday - if they're vaccinated, test negative, hail from certain countries, quarantine and heed restrictions in public.

DENPASAR, Indonesia — The Indonesian resort island of Bali reopened for international travelers to visit its shops and white-sand beaches for the first time in more than a year Thursday — if they're vaccinated, test negative, hail from certain countries, quarantine and heed restrictions in public.

However, foreign visitors may be slow to arrive. No international flights to Bali were scheduled on the first day of the reopening and a tourism official forecast travel would pick up in November.

Bali's airport will welcome new foreign arrivals from 19 countries that meet World Health Organization's criteria such as having their COVID-19 cases under control, Luhut Binsar Pandjaitan, the government minister who leads the COVID-19 response in Java and Bali, said in a statement late Wednesday.

He said all international flight passengers must have proof they've been vaccinated two times, test negative for the coronavirus upon arrival in Bali and undergo a 5-day quarantine at designated hotels at their own expense. They'll also have to follow stringent rules at hotels, in restaurants and on beaches.

"We have to do this with caution because we need to stay alert," Pandjaitan said.

President Joko Widodo credited Bali's high vaccination rate for the decision to reopen. The country's COVID-19 caseload has also declined considerably; Indonesia has had around 1,000 cases a day in the past week after peaking around 56,000 daily in July.

Tourism is the main source of income on the idyllic "island of the gods" that is home to more than 4 million people, who are mainly Hindu in the mostly Muslim archipelago nation. Bali's tourist areas were deserted two decades ago after visitors were scared off by deadly terror attacks that targeted foreigners, but the island has worked to overcome that image.

More than 6 million foreigners arrived in Bali each year prior to the pandemic.

Foreign tourist arrivals dropped six-fold from 6.2 million in 2019 to only 1 million in 2020, while 92,000 people employed in tourism lost their jobs and the average room occupancy rate of classified hotels in Bali was below 20%. Statistics Indonesia data showed the island's economy contracted 9.31% year-on-year last year.

After closing the island to all visitors early in the pandemic, Bali reopened to Indonesians from other parts of the country in the middle of last year. That helped the island's gross domestic product grow a modest 2.83% in the second quarter this year, ending five consecutive quarters of contraction.

An airport worker marks queue line for the reopening of International Ngurah Rai Airport in Bali, Indonesia, Thursday. Firdia Lisnawati/AP hide caption

An airport worker marks queue line for the reopening of International Ngurah Rai Airport in Bali, Indonesia, Thursday.

The July surge , fueled by the delta variant, again totally emptied the island's normally bustling beaches and streets. Authorities restricted public activities, closed the airport and shuttered all shops, bars, sit-down restaurants, tourist attraction spots and many other places on the island. It reopened to domestic travelers in August.

Sang Putu Wibawa, the general manager at Bali's Tandjung Sari Hotel, said only two of its 40 rooms were occupied on average and he hoped the reopening would help the occupancy rate back to normal.

"We have been waiting for this moment for so long," he said. "This outbreak has hammered the local economy ... we are very excited to welcome foreign guests by observing health protocols."

Widodo said deciding to reopen Bali was based on its high vaccination rate as well as wanting to revive its economy. He said more than 80% of the Bali population has been fully vaccinated.

"Based on this situation, I am optimistic and we have decided to reopen international flights to Bali," Widodo wrote in his official Instagram on Saturday.

Overall, 59.4 million of Indonesia's 270 million people are fully vaccinated and another 43.2 million are partially vaccinated. Indonesia has confirmed more than 4.2 million cases and 142,811 deaths from COVID-19, the most in Southeast Asia.

Tourists from 19 countries are now able to visit the Bali and Riau islands provinces — Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates, New Zealand, Kuwait, Bahrain, Qatar, China, India, Japan, South Korea, Liechtenstein, Italy, France, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Poland, Hungary, and Norway.

The tight timing is one reasons tourists were not immediately arriving, said Putu Astawa, head of the Bali Tourism Office

Airlines need time to schedule flights to Bali, while tourists need time to arrange travel documents such as tickets, insurance and virus tests as well as their five-day quarantine accommodations.

He predicted new visitors would start coming in early November.

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‘It’s disgusting’: Bali locals are fed up with bad tourists

Many in Bali are sick of the disrespect, the illegal work and the indecent social media posts from foreigners

Shannon Smith had been to Bali before, but it was her first trip back since the pandemic. This time, the Cairns, Australia, resident had come to Indonesia’s “Island of the Gods” for a work conference in Nusa Dua, a resort hub at Bali’s southern tip. While bouncing between Nusa Dua and popular tourist areas such as Kuta and Seminyak, Smith, who works in hotel management, noticed a few changes. There was more traffic on the roads, and there were fewer visitors from Asia and more Russians.

But the Balinese people were as welcoming as ever, and the place was still rife with rowdy tourists.

“If I wanted to hang out with drunken Australians, I’d stay at home,” Smith said.

The image many outsiders have of Bali — the one depicted in the 2010 Julia Roberts blockbuster “Eat Pray Love” — still exists. Bali remains covered with deep green rice paddies and golden sand stretching into turquoise water. Warm locals still banter with beach-bar-loving foreigners. But it’s not as tranquil these days.

In a little over a year since Bali reopened for international travel, an uptick in unruly behavior from tourists has removed some of the magic from paradise, pushing national and local officials to think up new ways to address offenders.

Reckless driving, social media flashing

From the country’s capital city, a top minister recently advocated for a tax on foreign tourists entering Indonesia to discourage “low-income” visitors. The Bali Tourism Board is promoting an ad campaign asking travelers to behave more respectfully. The local government has recently proposed banning visitors from renting motorbikes to curb reckless driving, CNN reported. And the Indonesian immigration department has been busy deporting foreigners who have been working illegally on tourist visas or breaking local laws.

Bali Governor Wayan Koster said in a news briefing that he has proposed revoking the visa-on-arrival program for travelers from Russia and Ukraine, who have been arriving in bigger numbers since the two countries have been at war , although plenty of people of other nationalities have been involved in recent incidents .

Immigration officials announced last week that they deported a Russian man who posted a widely circulated photo to social media that showed him with his pants around his ankles atop Mount Agung, a sacred site for Hindus. Another Russian man was deported in late February for working as a photographer in violation of his residence permit.

Tourism statistics recorded by Bali province show 22,104 Russian visitors came this January , a total second only to Australia, which had 91,254 citizens arrive in the island getaway. From November 2022 to January 2023, Russian tourists accounted for 5.6 percent of Bali’s nearly 997,000 foreign visitors, slightly larger than the 4.8 percent share of visitors from Russia in January 2020.

Reports in foreign media have also covered the traffic accidents and reckless driving, fights with local authorities and immigration violations , topless driving and indecent exposure . There was the foreigner working illegally on a tourist visa to teach Balinese dance and meditation, and the group of foreigners who filed a complaint against crowing roosters in a local neighborhood.

The latter incident baffled Bali native Megah Bintaranny, a product manager for Rainforest Cruises’ Southeast Asia market.

“How do you complain about that? We cannot control chickens,” Bintaranny said.

If the foreigners had been staying at a luxury hotel in a tourist hot spot, that would be one thing. But they were staying in a guesthouse in a residential area, where the noises of rural life abound, roosters and all. “When you choose to live in a local area,” Bintaranny added, “you need to accept [local noises].”

Overtourism on ‘party island’

Bali is part of a growing number of popular travel destinations fed up with overtourism. Hawaii is considering a bill to dissolve its government-sponsored tourism marketing agency. Amsterdam has been trying to reduce rowdy tourist behavior in its Red Light District , rolling out a ban on pot-smoking on the streets there, reducing hours for restaurants and brothels, and tightening some alcohol restrictions. Italian authorities have been fining tourists in Rome , Florence and Venice for littering, camping, vandalism and traffic violations.

The new rules of travel

Like Hawaii, Amsterdam and Italy, Bali is also fed up with tourists who aren’t breaking any laws, but who show little respect for local life.

“We have a lot of tolerance here, … but it’s this behavior of: ‘I am the more important person. Look at me,’” said Fatmawati, an Indonesian personal assistant and freelance photographer who moved to Bali from the island of Java nine years ago. (Fatmawati uses only one name, which is common in Indonesia.) “It’s disgusting. People are tired of it. I’m tired of it.”

Tjok Bagus Pemayun, the head of the Bali government tourism office, told The Washington Post in a written statement that Balinese culture is a source of happiness for locals, so “of course they would be angry” to see foreigners disrespect it: “Destroying their culture means destroying their life.”

When Ravindra Singh Shekhawat, Intrepid Travel’s general manager for Bali operations, moved to Bali in February 2022, “the roads were empty, hotels were empty,” he said. Tourism has increased significantly since then. Intrepid’s bookings in Indonesia have recovered to 2019 levels, and in Bali, “it’s definitely very busy,” he said. “There are tourists everywhere.”

He blames some of the recent issues on ignorance. “To a lot of people, Bali is considered more like a party island,” Shekhawat said. “That could be one of the reasons that people are not very aware about how traditional local people are.”

Being an expat himself, Shekhawat feels disappointed seeing cases like the foreigner who went viral after “having a heated argument” with local people over a traffic detour due to a religious procession — a common occurrence in Bali.

“As an outsider, you may have your opinion, but local people’s opinion should matter as well,” Shekhawat said. “It’s their land, it’s their island, and they should be allowed to follow their culture and tradition as they want to.”

Justin Smith, owner of the luxury travel-planning company the Evolved Traveler , acknowledges that Bali has been known for decades as a “bohemian destination” where foreigners were welcome to behave and dress as they like. He believes it’s often lost on visitors that Bali has expectations for respect and modest dress.

“It was acceptable to a point, but it has now gone too far,” Smith said. “There’s an absolute lack of respect for the destination, and for Bali to be pushed to that extent, that means this bad behavior is pretty extensive.”

Calling out illegal workers on Instagram

Bintaranny thinks shocking behavior is becoming more frequent because of social media. People seem to be pushing boundaries for internet fame, seeing sacred sites as “sexy for their Instagram,” she said. “And for them, it is probably not a big thing, but for Balinese, … it’s just an insult.”

Although social media may amplify each example of misbehavior, Shekhawat believes the majority of visitors aren’t disruptive. Febria Diah Retnoningsih, a counselor of social, cultural and information affairs at the Indonesian Embassy in Washington, agreed that the “bad behavior is just one drop in the ocean.”

But the government doesn’t endorse visa abuse or dangerous driving . “It’s the same as other countries,” Shekhawat said. “You cannot work without a work visa, and there are strict regulations to operate a vehicle.”

“Can you imagine taking jobs from locals? Nannies?” — Fatmawati, an Indonesian personal assistant and freelance photographer

Pemayun says it’s important to curb bad behavior, even though the number of offenders is small, to avoid having the issue “spread to other tourists” and “damage the image of Bali tourism in the world.”

Bali has a program to welcome remote workers , but the so-called “second-home visa” comes with a number of requirements, including proof of the equivalent of nearly $129,000 in savings. The current frustration isn’t directed at such residents, but at foreign workers competing with locals for jobs. There are various Instagram accounts that document examples; the one that Fatmawati says creates the biggest stir among locals anonymously reposts content from foreigners advertising their services, presumably without the proper visa.

Passport wait times are up again. Don’t let them spoil a trip.

Under the satirical guise of supporting local small business, the ( currently suspended ) account @moscow_cabang_bali and its backup account share public ads (mostly from Russians, hence the name) selling swim lessons, hair cuts, surf instruction, tattoos, yoga classes and villa rentals.

“They’re bragging about it,” Fatmawati said of the ads. “What is really crazy is that they’re taking jobs like nannies, renting motorbikes. Can you imagine taking jobs from locals? Nannies?”

Asking for respect

Even in the current climate, Fatmawati says tourists to Bali won’t encounter any angst from locals or authorities if they don’t break basic rules, and Pemayun said “Balinese people feel very happy” with the return of tourism.

Shekhawat says that’s been the case for Intrepid Travel’s group tours. Locals seem to welcome the tourists, Shekhawat said, and are understanding that sometimes travelers “may not behave 100 percent as they want them to — but there is a limit to everything.”

To be a better visitor on Bali, Pemayun encourages travelers to “respect cultural values, traditions and local wisdom.” He would like visitors to behave in an orderly manner, be environmentally friendly, stay longer, spend money on local businesses and make repeat visits.

Shekhawat also recommends reading up on cultural norms before your trip, and exploring less-visited areas of Bali than the most popular spots, such as Seminyak, Ubud, Canggu and Uluwatu. That may entail heading to the northern and western parts of the island, such as West Bali National Park, a wildlife oasis with 160 recorded species of birds. You could also take a ferry to nearby Gili and Lombok islands, where you’ll find more sun, sand and surf — and fewer tourists.

Wherever you go, “please respect our culture,” Retnoningsih said. “That’s what makes Bali, Bali: its rich culture.”

More travel news

How we travel now: More people are taking booze-free trips — and airlines and hotels are taking note. Some couples are ditching the traditional honeymoon for a “buddymoon” with their pals. Interested? Here are the best tools for making a group trip work.

Bad behavior: Entitled tourists are running amok, defacing the Colosseum , getting rowdy in Bali and messing with wild animals in national parks. Some destinations are fighting back with public awareness campaigns — or just by telling out-of-control visitors to stay away .

Safety concerns: A door blew off an Alaska Airlines Boeing 737 Max 9 jet, leaving passengers traumatized — but without serious injuries. The ordeal led to widespread flight cancellations after the jet was grounded, and some travelers have taken steps to avoid the plane in the future. The incident has also sparked a fresh discussion about whether it’s safe to fly with a baby on your lap .

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Why You’ll Pay More and Behave Better When You Travel This Summer

From Barcelona to Bali, higher fees and new rules are targeting overtourism and unruly behavior. Some locals are worried the changes will keep tourists away.

By Paige McClanahan

A new tourist fee in Bali. Higher hotel taxes in Amsterdam and Paris. Stricter rules on public drinking in Milan and Majorca. Ahead of the summer travel season, leaders in many tourist spots have adopted measures to tame the tourist crowds — or at least earn more revenue from them.

All of this may pose headaches for travelers, although in most cases, the new fees or tax increases represent only a tiny fraction of the total cost of a trip. The goal is to ensure that tourism functions smoothly for visitors and locals alike, said Megan Epler Wood, managing director of the Sustainable Tourism Asset Management Program at Cornell University.

“All tourism is dependent on beautiful natural and cultural resources. You have to protect those resources in order to be a viable tourism destination — and if you don’t, they degrade,” Ms. Epler Wood said.

In some places, proposals for new fees or visitor rules have drawn opposition from residents, who fear they might scare away the tourists who bolster the local economy. But destinations need to find ways to counteract what Ms. Epler Wood calls “ the invisible burden ” of tourism, which includes strains on a community’s infrastructure, utilities and housing stock, as well as tourists’ carbon footprint and any challenges they might impose on residents’ daily lives.

“You put so much pressure on the place that the people who live there become unhappy, and then they don’t present a very good face to tourists,” Ms. Epler Wood said. “The longer you wait, the higher the cost to fix it.”

Here is a look at new measures that travelers can expect this summer, and where others might be coming in the future.

New visitor fees

Since February, visitors to the Indonesian island of Bali have been asked to pay a levy of 150,000 Indonesian rupiahs, or about $9.40 per visit. Revenue will be used to support the preservation of cultural and natural assets on the island, where tourism has brought major challenges related to litter, water supply and overcrowding. Visitors are encouraged to pay the new fee online before departure, although it’s also possible to pay on arrival at the airport.

Beginning Aug. 1, most foreign travelers to the Galápagos Islands — which had a record-breaking 330,000 visitors last year — must pay a $200 entry fee, double the current rate. The money raised will be used to support conservation, improve infrastructure and fund community programs.

The change is the first increase to the entry fee since it was introduced in 1998, said Tom O’Hara, communications manager for the Galápagos Conservation Trust . Mr. O’Hara noted that the increase comes a year after the UNESCO World Heritage Committee urged the government of Ecuador to work toward a “zero-growth model” for tourism in the Galápagos.

“It’s quite a complicated topic,” Mr. O’Hara said, noting that the fee increase has been viewed “as part of the solution to overtourism.” On the other hand, he added, “everyone is trying to reassure the local tourist industry that this isn’t going to kill tourism on the islands.

In April, Venice began imposing a fee — 5 euros, about $5.40 — on day-trippers visiting on peak days, with the goal of striking “a new balance between the tourists and residents.”

But the new Venice Access Fee has drawn criticism from residents. “This project is a disaster for us. We are a city, not a park,” said Matteo Secchi, the president of Venessia.com, an association of Venice residents. Mr. Secchi said that a communications campaign would have been more effective.

The possibility of a new tourist fee has also drawn local opposition in Hawaii, where Gov. Josh Green has proposed a “climate impact fee” for visitors to the state. The measure failed during a recent meeting of the State Legislature, but Governor Green has persisted in calling for visitors to help fund the state’s preparation for future climate shocks.

“We have to get this tiger by the tail,” he told journalists in May, adding that $25 per visitor could raise $250 million a year, which the state could use to guard against climate disasters, manage erosion, strengthen infrastructure and protect parks.

Hotel fees and other taxes get a bump

Hotel taxes, also known as occupancy or accommodation taxes, are widespread in the United States and Europe, where they were on the rise for a decade leading up to the pandemic. With tourism’s rebound to prepandemic levels, several destinations have increased or adjusted the tax to capture more revenue.

Like Hawaii, Greece — which also suffered severe wildfires last summer — is looking to steel itself against climate disasters, and the government wants tourists to help foot the bill. Greece is calling the charge a climate crisis resilience fee , and it will be collected by accommodation providers. The tax will be higher from March to October, when it will top out at €10 per night at five-star hotels. The rate drops from November to February, and for hotels with fewer stars. The fee replaces the previous hotel tax, which ranged from €0.50 to €4 per night.

In Amsterdam, the hotel tax, which was already one of the highest in Europe, rose to 12.5 percent from 7 percent on Jan. 1. City lawmakers have also raised the tax on cruise passengers to €14 from €11 per person per night.

The hotel tax in Barcelona also rose this year, increasing to €3.25 per night. The measure was the final step-up in a gradual increase that began before the pandemic. A spokesman for Barcelona City Hall said that further tax increases would be aimed at tourist rental apartments and cruises that make short stopovers, which contribute less to the city’s income. The spokesman also noted that revenue generated by the tourist tax is being used, among other things, to fund the installation of solar panels and air-conditioning in Barcelona’s public schools.

Ahead of this summer’s Olympic and Paralympic Games in Paris, lawmakers in the Île-de-France region have imposed a new tax, on top of the normal hotel levy. With the new tax, which will fund public transportation in the region, a guest in a five-star hotel now owes a total of €10.73 in tax per night stayed, while a stay in a two-star hotel incurs a tax of €3.25 per night.

Though the measure was adopted by the regional government, it was not supported by the leadership in Paris itself. A spokeswoman for Paris City Hall called the move “a democratic power grab” that “in no way benefits the city of Paris.” She noted that even with the funds generated by the new tax, the region still raised the price of tickets for public transportation in the city during the Olympics — a measure that has disgruntled many Paris residents.

Introducing new rules

In other tourist spots, the focus is on curbing behavior that pollutes the local environment or harms residents’ quality of life.

In Japan, authorities at Mount Fuji will cap visitors at 4,000 per day. They have also imposed a new fee of 2,000 yen (about $13) for access to the iconic summit. Elsewhere in the country, a community council in the Gion neighborhood of Kyoto has closed some small roads to tourists, after complaints that the area, home to the city’s geisha district, was suffering from crowds.

“We will ask tourists to refrain from entering narrow private streets in or after April,” Isokazu Ota, a leading member of the community council, told Agence-France Presse in March. “We don’t want to do this, but we’re desperate.”

A spokeswoman for the city’s tourism board described the road closures as “a local initiative,” adding that “neither Kyoto City nor the Kyoto City Tourism Association are aware of any details beyond what is reported in the media.”

Rowdy visitor behavior has been the target of new rules in Milan. In some areas, city leaders have banned outdoor seating after 12:30 a.m. during the week and 1:30 a.m. on the weekend in response to resident complaints. They have also limited the late-night sale of takeaway food and drinks.

And in certain areas on the Spanish Balearic Islands of Majorca and Ibiza that are overrun with drunk tourists, the government has imposed a ban on late-night sales of alcohol and the consumption of alcohol in the street. New restrictions have also been imposed on party boats in the same areas.

“Tourism has negative externalities that must be managed and minimized,” Marga Prohens, the president of the Balearic Islands, told a local gathering this month , according to The Majorca Daily Bulletin. Local tourism, she said, “cannot continue to grow in volume.”

Paige McClanahan, a regular contributor to the Travel section, is author of “The New Tourist: Waking Up to the Power and Perils of Travel,” forthcoming from Scribner on June 18.

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Foreigners working in Bali without proper visa may be banned

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Thinking of running an in-person workshop, organising an event or spending weeks working from a cafe during a Bali getaway? You risk being sent back home, as Indonesian authorities crack down on foreign visitors breaking immigration laws.

Foreigners working from the popular Indonesian tourist destination must hold proper visas, and authorities have emphasised how they will not tolerate those who flout the rules, amid recent news of travellers misbehaving on the island.

“We will take firm action. There have been those who have been deported,” Indonesia’s Minister for Tourism and Creative Economies Sandiaga Uno said on May 29.

“Repeat offenders will be given sanctions and will not be allowed to visit Indonesia for several years.”

Bali has been experiencing a post-pandemic tourist boom. Authorities said that in the first quarter of 2024, some 1.3 million people visited the island, an increase of about 32 per cent compared to the same period last year.

But reports of reckless, rowdy and disrespectful foreigners on the island have also increased, alongside those outrightly breaking the law or working without the necessary permits. Indonesia offers a variety of visas for those keen to work in the country, including temporary resident permits, visas for investors, and a remote worker visa that is valid for a year.

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In May, the authorities raided a suspected drug lab in a villa in the Canggu district, that reportedly earned around four billion rupiah (S$336,000) in six months supplying drugs across the island. Two Ukrainians, a Russian, and an Indonesian were arrested for running the lab that police alleged produced drugs including cocaine and hydroponic marijuana. 

A month earlier, two producers of a reality show featuring South Korean celebrities, including Hyoyeon from Girls’ Generation and Dita Karang from Secret Number, were deported by the Bali Immigration Office for unauthorised filming and for misusing their stay permit.

In November 2023, a 30-year-old Chinese man was deported from Bali after authorities uncovered his covert travel agency operation and he had failed to produce proper documentation.

Deportation figures have risen significantly. Some 340 foreigners were sent back to their home countries in 2023, a marked increase from the 188 in 2022. 

In the first quarter of 2024 alone, 37 foreigners were deported and 27 others detained.

Mr Sandiaga noted that these numbers are small compared with the millions of tourists that arrive in Bali, but “we have to be more firm in cracking down on misbehaving tourists”.

On May 15, Coordinating Minister for Maritime and Investment Affairs Luhut Binsar Pandjaitan warned that troublemaking foreigners would be barred from entering Indonesia.

“I propose anyone who creates chaos in our country, the foreign tourists who may toy around with drugs or online gambling or rampage, not be allowed to enter Indonesia any more,” said Mr Luhut, who is one of Indonesia’s most senior officials.

Ms Megawati Soekarnoputri, former Indonesian president and chairwoman of the ruling Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle (PDI-P) recently criticised the way Bali is being run. 

In a speech on May 27, she took aim at how the island has become a hotbed for drug trafficking, the lack of clean water for residents due to tourism development, and how the people of Bali were not reaping the benefits of tourism. 

In response, Mr Sandiaga said on Instagram on May 29 that her criticism will be taken as “constructive input” for improving Bali.

“From punishment to deportation, (that) is our firm action so that Indonesian cultural norms and customs are no longer trampled on… We will immediately take firm action against all prohibited things,” he said. 

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This paradise island has got its mojo back – cheaper than Bali and without the crowds

“The closest thing I’ve ever seen to Eden” – this is how award-winning actor Sam Neill describes Bali , and for many years the Indonesian island – one of 17,000 – has been a paradisiacal getaway for famous folk and the rest of us civilians.

But the past few years have seen its idyllic reputation begin to tarnish. Its oh-so-attractive beaches are suffering: due to waste management issues, much of the country’s 300,000 tons of plastic waste end up on its beaches or waterways. Often you’ll see reports of unruly tourists violating holy sites, drink-driving and causing fatal road accidents.

In 2023, 5.2 million people descended on Bali looking to experience its alluring blend of desert island vistas, hospitality for all budgets, world-class scuba diving and heady nightlife. By August of that year, 213 of those visitors had been deported for inappropriate behaviour. Today, the streets of Seminyak are still bustling, with bars of every kind doing a roaring trade alongside boutique fashion outlets and somewhat bawdy souvenir shops.

I stayed in the city earlier this year, on the way to Lombok, Bali’s sister island, which is just a 90-minute ferry ride away. Of similar size but with fewer inhabitants, Lombok possesses Indonesia’s mix of intricate temples, tropical climate and earthbound beauty, yet without the excessive crowds and inflated costs of its neighbour.

Despite its proximity to Bali, mainland Lombok – unlike the popular partying and diving destination of the Gili Islands – is often overlooked by tourists, despite the country’s efforts to attract them. The tourism industry began to blossom in the 1980s, but took a hit in the late 90s when a financial crisis and political unrest destabilised the region.

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It began growing again in 2010. Then, in August 2018, a 6.9 magnitude earthquake struck the island , followed by a tsunami, killing over 500 people and collapsing residences and resorts across much of the north. Subsequent years saw incremental revival attempts, but then Covid hit. According to Tanmay Vaidya, general manager of The Oberoi Beach Resort, Lombok, this duo of disasters set the country’s hospitality industry back “20 years”.

But now, Lombok is on the way up.

Since the pandemic, the country has welcomed a new panoply of travellers. In 2022, the destination was added to the MotoGP calendar, its high-spec Mandalika International Street Circuit seducing petrolheads from around the world. Last year, Singapore Airlines launched a new route to Lombok, connecting those Indonesian shores to a new market. What’s more, development has been booming in Lombok’s less populated regions, developers seeing opportunities in much of its untouched southern coastline.

Innit Lombok is one of these openings. A cluster of six, high-concept villas sitting on a private beach in Awang Bay. Accessing the property requires driving across miles of farmland on rough roads before navigating a steep dirt track that seemingly leads into the wilderness. The nearest shops are a 20-minute drive away, and “local amenities” consist of a surf-friendly ocean, private beach and beautiful sunsets. Upstairs, guests enjoy unbroken sea views from the moment they sit up in bed in the morning, while downstairs the living area connects seamlessly with the beach: having just three walls means it is open to the oceanfront, and a sandy floor sees crabs scuttle beneath kitchen cabinets. It’s remote and luxurious – a USP that Lombok is finessing.

One high-end hotel chain has had this nailed for a while. Oberoi Hotels and Resorts has properties in both Bali and Lombok, and though they share similarly seductive design, decor and decadent services, they also feel distinctly different.

Opened in 1978, The Oberoi Beach Resort, Bali , was the first hotel in Seminyak – it made such an impression that many locals still refer to the area itself as “Oberoi”, and as such benefits from a spacious, 60,000 square-metre plot unrivalled by other local hotels. Mornings here are spent enjoying Balinese massages to a soundtrack of twittering honeyeaters, afternoons being hypnotised by the sun-soaked tides, and evenings sampling the indigenous delights of mangosteen, snake fruit and rambutan. It’s peaceful by any stretch of the imagination, yet in Lombok, Oberoi somehow takes it further.

Extending across 97,000 square metres of impossibly green, tropical topography, The Oberoi Beach Resort, Lombok greets guests with a pavilion-framed view of staggered infinity pools, a sapphire Indian Ocean and the low, green humps of the Gili Islands on the horizon. Villas here are positively palatial; a Luxury Ocean View Villa with private pool spreads over a sprawling 255 square metres. While both Indonesian properties overlook sandy beaches, Bali’s are speckled with runners, horse riders and tourists taking a dip, while Lombok’s are untouched, the only movement the swaying silhouettes of netted hammocks and fretting palm fronds.

Tanmay is convinced Lombok has the edge when it comes to tourist appeal: “[Lombok] has got great potential, way better than Bali,” he explains. “Once you’re here, you have great beaches, golf, diving, hiking – and fewer people around you. It’s much better value for money, too.”

His last point is a key factor in the destination’s growth. For those not able to fly direct, while the extra cost of a ferry or connecting flight is a consideration, once on the ground, pretty much everything in Lombok costs less than in Bali – particularly if travellers visit in the off-season.

February might be a time when rain-phobic Europeans run the other way from the threat of monsoons, yet in the two weeks I stayed, I experienced only one half-hour downpour and a spattering of welcome, cooling showers. Otherwise, temperatures held steady at around 32 degrees celsius, backed by scorching sunshine and blue skies.

But beyond accommodation, Lombok feels different from Bali. Its ferry port is quieter and the roads less frantic. There’s interesting conservation work going on here too, offering travellers meaningful ways to contribute to the community, learn about the local culture, and soak up the region’s incredible natural offerings.

One such company is Project Hiu , a two-year-old shark conservation enterprise established by filmmaker and influencer Madison Stewart. Her outfit has been hiring boats and their crews for monthly stints to show tourists some of the destination’s best snorkelling spots. In theory, for each month the fishermen are employed by the project, roughly 60 sharks evade capture. Indonesia frequently tops charts as the country catching and exporting the most sharks globally, and while some species are protected, it’s barely regulated.

My time with them was eye-opening. Aside from enjoying a guided snorkel at Pink Beach, watching nesting bats and swimming with black tip reef sharks, I learned about the crew’s day-to-day lifestyle.

The six members manning our boat have been working in this industry since they were young boys, they can’t read or write, and the job is excruciatingly physically demanding. They sleep in a deck area barely tall enough to crouch in while shark carcasses decompose below the boards beneath them. One crew member chuckled while showing us a video of a shark hook being removed from his hand. He nearly lost his thumb. In a bid to break the cycle of an inherited industry, Project Hiu is sponsoring two of the crew’s children to go to university. It’s a far cry from the luxurious lifestyle many tourists head to the destination for.

Bali is certainly convenient, but the extra effort to visit Lombok – very little, really – is worth it. Ferries between the islands are plentiful, fast and, while not exactly luxurious (many cram in hundreds of passengers and are strung all over with air fresheners failing to mask the heated human stench) they aren’t expensive; some routes are as little as $11 (£8.60). More comfortable transfers are available, such as private speedboats, or travellers can skip the water altogether and simply fly the 40 minutes between Bali to Lombok.

While sitting on a sofa in the sand, or watching sleeping turtles being buffeted by underwater currents, it’s hard to imagine Lombok as the new Bali. I think that’s a good thing. Lombok’s peace is precious, and something to soak up before the rest of the world catches up.

How to do it

Prices start at £4,200pp (based on two sharing), including return flights, all transfers and seven nights’ B&B accommodation, with two nights at The Oberoi Beach Resort, Bali, two nights at The Oberoi Beach Resort, Lombok, and three nights at Innit with Original Travel. Also included is the Project Hiu snorkelling, the waterfall trek and a day’s diving. originaltravel.co.uk

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Due to the ever-changing nature of the regulations, we strongly advise that you check with your airline before you travel.

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Silly mistake that cost me $500 in Bali

This Aussie traveller made a mistake in Bali that saw her fined $500 – but it could have been a lot worse.

Major call for infamous Bali monkeys

Bali’s surprise move after influx of tourists

$3.70 Bali bargain Aussies need to know

“We had a problem with your visa,” the purses said to me as I stepped aboard cruise ship Heritage Adventurer , which was anchored in the harbour at Jayapura.

I’d just returned from an all-day shore excursion on the north coast of Indonesian West Papua. Jayapura was our last Indonesian port before we crossed the maritime border into Papua New Guinea later that night.

The purser’s team had spent all day with Indonesian Customs officials processing exit paperwork for passengers and crew, Fiona Harper writes for Escape .

“You’ve overstayed your visa,” the purser goes on to explain, with an admonishing look that underpinned the brevity of his message.

“That can’t be right,” I responded automatically as my imagination flipped into overdrive, trying to quickly process the implications of a visa problem in Indonesia.

Mentally I started doing the maths (admittedly not my strong suit) wondering how on earth this could be possible.

I’d arrived in Indonesia back in August, paying for a 30 day Visa on arrival. Then, in September, I’d flown to Langkawi for the weekend, essentially on a ‘visa run’, receiving another 30 days when I returned to Bali.

I thought I had my visa obligations sorted. But I’d miscalculated. Instead of counting the number of days between arriving from Malaysia and cruising out of the country to PNG on an 18 day voyage, I’d only counted the days until I boarded the ship and was to depart from Bali, not Indonesia.

When I looked closer at the visa in my passport which the purser was waving in front of me, it quite clearly stated ‘Valid until October 17. Today was October 22. Gulp.

“You won’t be deported,” he reassures me. “We’ve managed to sort it out for you.”

I sink back with relief.

“But there is a fine payable,” he says, handing me an invoice of nearly $500.

The minimum penalty for visa violation in Indonesia is IDR one million per day (about $100). The maximum is up to five years imprisonment plus the equivalent fine of $50,000. The longer you overstay your visa, the more severe the consequences.

According to news.com.au, almost 200 foreign nationals were deported from Bali in the first half of 2023, a number expected to rise as visitor numbers increase post-pandemic. The most common violations were overstaying a visa or using a visa in conflict of its intended purpose, i.e. working illegally.

What are the visa options for Australians visiting Indonesia?

The most common visa for Australian holiday-makers travelling to Indonesia is a 30 day Visa on Arrival (about $50), which can be extended another 30 days, upon application once you’re in Indonesia.

There’s also an option to apply for a visa before arrival, known as an e-VOA, with the main benefit being avoiding airport queues.

Cruise passengers are not exempt from Border Control obligations

Heritage Expeditions’ Pursers’ office is accustomed to liaising with Immigration and Border Control officials. Preparations begin long before international border crossings, which are generally pretty straightforward and without incident.

“Heritage Adventurer sails through a number of countries and remote islands every year, each with its own unique rules and regulations,” says Aaron Russ, Commercial Director and Expedition Leader. “Immigration issues are uncommon. But those issues which have arisen in the last year related to visas.”

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Credit card in hard, I sheepishly return to the Pursers desk to pay my fine. It’s an expensive mistake and I feel like a fool. Though, when I consider the potential consequences for visa violation, I’m relieved to have avoided no more than a fine.

Note: Australian travellers should check Smartraveller for up to date visa advice.

This article originally appeared on Escape and was reproduced with permission

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The managers of a renowned Bali tourist attraction have made a major call on the site’s mischievous resident long-tailed monkeys.

From its stunning natural beauty and affordability it’s no wonder why Aussies flock to the island – and now officials want to manage it differently.

It’s not something Indonesia is really known for, but it’s something Aussies need to add to their list the next time they’re in Bali.

Air New Zealand now flies direct to Bali all 12 months of the year

• 5 hours ago

Air New Zealand has announced it is now flying direct from Auckland to Bali all year long after the addition of three flights per week in the November-February period.

It marks the first time Aotearoa's national carrier is servicing the Indonesian island through the southern summer.

Other airlines including Jetstar can get Kiwis to Bali for prices that appear to be competitive with Air NZ's, but no other airline flies the route direct.

Air NZ has launched a sale on Auckland-Bali airfares with one-way tickets starting at $699 for travel dates between July 2024 and April 2025.

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The airline's chief customer and sales officer Leanne Geraghty said the Bali schedule has been ramped up as it's "become an increasingly popular destination" for New Zealanders.  

"As the only airline offering a direct connection between Aotearoa and Bali, Kiwis heading off on a Bali break over the summer months no longer need to fly with a stopover," said Geraghty.

"Holidaymakers can book a Bali Christmas or New Year holiday with direct flights to warm weather through the day and long balmy nights.

"Bookings to Bali have been strong since we relaunched our seasonal service in March, 2023. This year's seasonal flights have proven even more popular, with thousands of Kiwis booking Bali breaks over the last few months."

Air NZ's new AKL-DPS schedule:

April to October: Five to seven flights per week

November to mid-February: Three flights per week

Mid-February to end of March: Two flights per week. 

Some DART board members may have taken personal trips at taxpayer expense

One Dallas Area Rapid Transit board member spent more than $50,000 of agency funds for trips — including flights to Spain and Canada. She allegedly approved some of those trips herself.

Another used DART funds to travel from a second home in Denver to attend board meetings in Dallas.

Those are among the details that emerged when KERA News examined DART documents obtained through an open records request. KERA found evidence that some DART board members approved their own travel — and may have taken personal trips — at taxpayer expense.

KERA first requested travel records from the agency in September 2023. Redacted copies of records from 2019 to September 2023 were released in February after DART sought a ruling from the Texas Attorney General on what could be made public.

DART revised its travel policy for board members in March.

"The policy was being abused," said Paul Wageman, who represents Plano on the board and chairs its finance committee.

What the records show

The board’s current policy says directors’ travel must be related to transit. The board allocates $6,000 a year for travel.

The board member who traveled the most was former chair Michele Wong Krause, who is one of several Dallas representatives on the board. Krause traveled at least 18 times between 2019 and 2023.

She told KERA in an email that trips to Denver and Washington, D.C. included meetings with federal officials and training opportunities. She also attended transit conferences in Spain and Canada.

"Obtaining training and education is critical to help me have a deeper knowledge of the complex nature of the procurement process and issues at DART," Krause said in an email.

Krause was reimbursed more than $50,000 over the course of five years.

Wageman said Krause's trips weren't against the former policy, which allowed the board chair to approve travel expenses for transit-related trips, but that the cost was questionable.

"I think no one should be able to prove their own expenses...in any setting," Wageman said.

KERA found that board member Flora Hernandez traveled from Denver in July and August 2023 to attend DART board meetings in Dallas. She reportedly has a second home in Colorado. Hernandez, who represents the city of Dallas on the board, was reimbursed more than $2,000 for her trips.

Hernandez did not respond to requests for comment.

Wageman traveled to Austin in April 2023 to testify in front of the House Transportation Committee on House Bill 3146, which proposed greater financial transparency between DART and its member cities.

A video of the hearing shows Wageman testified in front of the committee to represent himself and the city of Plano instead of DART.

While the hearing was related to agency matters, Wageman confirmed he was in Austin to represent himself and was reimbursed by DART for the travel.

He said that trip occurred at a time when DART's travel policy for board members was "porous" and "poorly drafted."

Wageman had previously served as chair of the DART board before Krause during the pandemic when board travel was largely prohibited.

"We never anticipated someone who would take that many trips travel abroad and do other things," Wageman said. "So, shame on us, right?"

DART’s board underwent the audit following a meeting in September, when director Doug Hrbacek said the board’s attorney, Gene Gamez, was responding to a complaint about travel expenses. At the time, Hrbacek said some directors were “traveling around the world” and “approving their own travel."

After that meeting, KERA requested documents related to travel by DART board members since 2019.

Results of the audit

Following several closed door meetings last year, the audit on board expenses was completed in December. The audit found that board members in general adhered to DART's travel policy, but that "internal controls in place for managing Board expenditures can be strengthened." It flagged inconsistencies in travel receipts and record-keeping, and overpayments to travelers for "expenses that were previously paid by DART."

KERA made an open records request for the audit in April and received it in late May.

Auditors found that there were duplicate payments for expenses covered by DART and a lack of detailed receipts. They also found that DART didn’t consistently maintain documentation of board members’ travel, airline upgrades and canceled trips.

As a result, auditors say it was difficult to determine if some trips were approved by the board. There were also significant increases in spending on meals, workshops and supplies.

“Some of the increases can be attributed to inflation over the last five years however, some of the increase can be attributed to a shift in the type of vendors used,” the audit said.

Auditors recommended improved training for staff handling travel expenses, better documentation for trips and cancellations and changes to Rule 7 of the board’s rules of procedure, which sets the policy for directors’ travel.

Jeamy Molina, a spokeswoman for DART, confirmed that the board amended its travel policy in March, and that board members won't be reimbursed for trips that aren't permitted. Molina did not say whether there would be repercussions for board members who allegedly took personal trips using agency funds or approved their own travel.

"Some people didn't think there was any issue here," Wageman said. "But thanks to Doug [Hrbacek] and working with our auditor and our general counsel, we came up with a revised policy that I think provides guardrails so that that kind of thing doesn't happen again."

The findings come during a contentious time for DART as the agency grapples with the possibility of reduced funding from member cities and potentially one less representative for the city of Dallas, according to The Dallas Morning News .

The agency has also been in tense discussions with the union representing its employees, ATU 1338, over safety concerns, pay raises and benefits.

Reporter Juan Salinas II contributed to this investigation.

Pablo Arauz Peña is KERA’s growth and infrastructure reporter. Got a tip? Email Pablo at [email protected] . You can follow him on X @pabloaarauz .

KERA News is made possible through the generosity of our members. If you find this reporting valuable, consider making a tax-deductible gift today . Thank you.

Tourism | Tourism oversight board backs $17B Disney World…

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Tourism | florida supreme court rejects worrell’s appeal of suspension by desantis, tourism | tourism oversight board backs $17b disney world development plan.

The Central Florida Tourism Oversight District’s board voted unanimously for the 15-year agreement, which outlines how Disney World will grow in the future. It will need a final vote on June 12 to take effect.

“The development agreement will enable us to continue to invest significantly in the district,” said Woody Rodriguez, director of external affairs for Disney Parks, Experiences and Products.

Disney officials haven’t provided specifics on what is in the works, but the company says in the proposal it will invest up to $17 billion over the next 10 to 20 years. The agreement includes a commitment of $8 billion during the first 10 years.

District officials are committing to fund road and other infrastructure projects to support the new development.

In the deal, Disney also agrees to provide $10 million for affordable housing projects and a “buy local initiative” with at least half of construction goods and services going to Florida businesses.

The agreement covers about 17,300 acres owned by Disney, according to a legal announcement. It authorizes a maximum of five major theme parks, one more than Disney operates in Central Florida now.

Company officials have not announced a fifth theme park, although industry insiders are speculating they could with Universal Orlando’s Epic Universe opening next year.

The agreement also allows a maximum of five minor theme parks, such as a water park, nearly 1.3 million square feet of office space, 1.7 million square feet of restaurant/retail space and 53,467 hotel rooms.

The proposal marks a new chapter in the relationship between Disney and Gov. Ron DeSantis. A Disney-DeSantis feud erupted in 2022 over the company’s opposition to what critics called the “don’t say gay” bill, which limited classroom instruction on sexual orientation and gender identity.

The dispute then entered the courts with lawsuits filed over who would control the Reedy Creek Improvement District, which oversees roads and other government services for Disney World.

In February 2023, DeSantis sacked the district board’s five Disney loyalists and replaced them with his political allies. Lawmakers renamed Reedy Creek the Central Florida Tourism Oversight District.

In March, Disney and the DeSantis-appointed district board settled a lawsuit in state court over development agreements. A federal lawsuit filed by Disney is still pending, but district officials plan to discuss that suit on June 12.

“We’re heading toward a brand new day, and I think we’re all very excited about where this is going for the employees and residents of the district and business people and really just for the people of Central Florida,” said Charbel Barakat, acting chairman of the Central Florida Tourism Oversight District’s board.

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