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Home > Paris Hidden Gems > Quick Guide to the Most Charming Covered Passages, Paris (Les Passages Couverts de Paris)

Quick Guide to the Most Charming Covered Passages, Paris (Les Passages Couverts de Paris)

About the covered passages of paris.

All about the Covered Passages, Paris’ hidden gems. A quick guide to the best Covered Passages in Paris, map included, and walking tour ideas.

The Covered Passages of Paris ( Les Passages Couverts de Paris in French) are hidden gems in Paris , a world apart from the crowded tourist attractions or busy Grands Boulevards.

By the end of the 18th century, town planners created a labyrinth of commercial Passages in Paris with beautiful stained-glass ceilings, mosaic works, and iron latticework, all bathed in natural light.

Apart from its dominating merchant role, the Paris Passages were also the new bourgeois’ favorite stroll, the place to show up and socialize in its endless cafés, traditional bistros, or small theaters.

Over the years, only a few walkways survived. Restored to their former glory, the Paris Covered Passages are today real Art Nouveau / Neoclassical architectural gems, and if you know where to look, you will find a hidden world of delightful ancient boutiques, cute cafés, and other curiosity shops.

These charming and secret Passages in Paris are free to visit, and they are the perfect shelter for a rainy day in Paris and a trip back in time to the beautiful Belle Époque.

The Covered Passages of Paris are one of our favorite secret places in Paris. Click here for the list of the most beautiful hidden places in Paris .

Best Covered Passages in Paris

• Galerie Vivienne Paris – 4 rue des Petit-Champs, Paris 2
• Galerie Colbert Paris – 2 rue Vivienne, Paris 2
• Passage du Grand Cerf Paris –  145 rue de Saint-Denis, Paris 2
• Passage des Panoramas Paris –  11 boulevard de Montmartre, Paris 9
• Passage Jouffroy Paris – 10 boulevard de Montmartre, Paris 9
• Passage Brady Paris – 43 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin, Paris 10
• Passage Choiseul Paris –  40 rue des Petits-Champs, Paris 2
• Passage du Bourg-l’Abbé – 120, rue Saint-Denis, Paris 2
• Passage des Deux Pavillons Paris – 6, rue de Beaujolais, Paris 1

Best Paris Passages Map

Here is the Paris Covered Passages Map, with the most beautiful Covered Walkways Paris has to offer. Click on the link below to enlarge and navigate through this Paris’ Passages Map.

Click here to view this Paris’ Covered Passages Map on Google

Luckily for us, most of the best Covered Passages in Paris are located in the most central Arrondissements of Paris (Paris 1 and Paris 2), so you can go from one walkway to the next on foot. With few exceptions, they are open from Monday to Saturday, during business hours.

Paris’ Covered Passages Walking Tour Ideas

Explore the best Passages in Paris at your own pace or with a guided tour. On your way, you will find typical Parisian bistros , excellent vintage shopping, Parisian cafés lost in time, and more.

» This 3-hour Passages Paris walking tour with a local guide is an excellent way to learn the history of these Covered Passages in Paris, and it is consistently rated 5 stars. If you have less time available, this 1.5-hour Paris walkways walking tour is a good alternative .

If you prefer to visit them at your own pace, check out this 1-hour audio guide , which also covers the beautiful gardens of Palais Royal.

» Suggested Paris’ Covered Passages Walking Tour #1: Passage Jouffroy, Passage des Panoramas, Passage Choiseul, Passage Colbert, Galerie Vivienne.

» Suggested Paris’ Passages Walking Tour #2: Passage Colbert, Galerie Vivienne, Passage du Grand Cerf, Passage du Bourg-l’Abbé.

Best Covered Passages – Paris Hidden Gems

Here is the list of the best Passages in Paris – secret Covered Passages Paris has to offer for the curious wanderer. These Paris walkways are all beautiful and elegant, but each passage is unique in its own way:

1. Galerie Vivienne Paris – The Most Elegant

Adress: 4 Rue des Petit-Champs, Paris 2; Metro station Bourse Line 3 or Palais Royal Musée du Louvre Lines 1 and 7.

Start your Paris’ Passages walking tour with Galerie Vivienne (also known as Passage Vivienne). Built in the 1820s in Paris 2, near the Palais Royal, Galerie Vivienne is one of the most beautiful Covered Passages in Paris, well known for the elegance of its boutiques. If you have time to visit only one Parisian walkway, choose this one.

Today, Galerie Vivienne   Paris gathers luxury boutiques, bookshops, fabric shops, and lovely Parisian cafés. Don’t miss its elegant architecture and the original mosaic floor with the names of the former businesses at the entrance of each shop.

» OUR MUST SEE’S: check the world-reputed Wolff & Descourtis (#18) for its cashmere shawls and fashionable fabric designs. Legrand Filles et Fils (1 Rue de la Banque) is considered the best wine shop in Paris, with more than 3,000 labels (come with your wine tote bag ). Librairie F Jousseamme (#45) is a beautiful bookshop with ancient editions and rare books, which also sells beautiful old postcards.

» THE PERFECT BREAK: Bistrot Vivienne (access through Rue des Petits Champs) is a typical Parisian bistro with good traditional food. A Priori Thé (#35) is a lovely café and tearoom.

» GALERIE VIVIENNE OPENING HOURS: Every day from 10 am to 8 pm.

2. Galerie Colbert Paris – The Eternal Rival

Adress: 2 Rue Vivienne, Paris 2; Metro station Bourse Line 3 or Palais Royal Musée du Louvre Line 1, Line 7.

As you can see on the Paris’ Passages Map above, the entrance to Passage Colbert (also known as Galerie Colbert) is on the same street as Galerie Vivienne, so it is impossible to miss it!

Actually, Passage Colbert (1826) was built to compete with Galerie Vivienne, but in the end, it was less successful than its rival.

Don’t miss the richness of its neoclassical architecture, featuring a 15-meter diameter dome. Today, this Covered Walkway has no shops, but it is interesting to visit for its history and elegant decoration. Passage Colbert hosts the Institut National d’Histoire de l’Art and the Institut National du Patrimoine.

» THE PERFECT BREAK: the restaurant Le Grand Colbert (2 Rue Vivienne), with its unique Art Nouveau atmosphere, is perfect for a good meal or a hot chocolate in the afternoon.

» GALERIE COLBERT OPENING HOURS: Every day from 10 am to 8 pm.

3. Passage du Grand Cerf Paris – The Hidden Gem

Adress: 145 Rue de Saint-Denis, Paris 2; Metro station Étienne-Marcel Line 4.

The Passage du Grand Cerf is one of the most beautiful Covered Passages Paris has to offer. However, it remains one of the most secret Paris walkways because it is not easy to find.

The Passage du Grand Cerf was built in 1825 on the site of the Hôtel du Grand Cerf , from which it took its name. Its pleasing interior is home to many artisan shops and high-quality jewelry boutiques.

Don’t miss its spectacular 12-meter-high structure made of metal and wrought iron with a beautiful glass roof and its flourished balconies on the first floor.

» OUR MUST SEE’S: Eric et Lydie (#7), contemporary jewelry designers. Pour Vos Beaux Yeux (#10) specializes in vintage eyewear. Rickshaw (#7) sells curious objects from all around the world.

» THE PERFECT BREAK: Le Pas Sage (#1) is a wine bar perfect to finish your shopping in style.

» PASSAGE DU GRAND CERF OPENING HOURS: Monday to Saturday from 8.30 am to 8.30 pm. Closed on Sundays.

4. Passage des Panoramas Paris – The Oldest

Address: 11 Boulevard de Montmartre, Paris 9; Metro station Richelieu-Drouot Lines 8 and 9 or Grands Boulevards Lines 8 and 9.

Passage des Panoramas was built in the year 1799 and, as you can see in the Covered Passages Paris Map above, it is located between the districts of Paris 9 and Paris 2.

Passage des Panoramas is the oldest of the surviving Covered Passages of Paris and the first one illuminated with gas lamps in 1816. Its name comes from the two large rotundas built at the entrance of the Passage (disappeared today) to display panoramic paintings of Paris, Toulon, Rome, Jerusalem, and other famous cities.

This labyrinthine passage is home to the Théâtre des Variétés , which has entertained the Parisians since 1807. But most of all, Passage des Panoramas is known for its philately shops. If you like old stamps, postcards, and coins, Passage des Panoramas is the place to go.

» OUR MUST SEE’S: the French engraving and printer Henri Stern (#47) set up business in this passage in 1834. Today, the shop is working as a fancy café, but you still can see the original details of the former shop. Check out the artists’ entrance to Théâtre des Variétés (#17). Tombées du Camion (#44) is a cute shop with interesting (sometimes weird) collectibles.

» THE PERFECT BREAK: Restaurant Noglu (#16) is one of the few gluten-free eateries in Paris. Enjoy some of the best French wines at  Les Racines (#8), which specializes in natural wines. La Crêperie (#62) proposes yummy crêpes and ice creams.

» PASSAGE DES PANORAMAS OPENING HOURS: Every day from 6 am to 12 am.

5. Passage Jouffroy Paris – The Most Authentic

Adress: 10 Boulevard de Montmartre, Paris 9; Metro station Grands Boulevards Lines 8 and 9.

If you want to know what these secret Passages in Paris looked like during their heydays, Passage Jouffroy  is the place to go. Crowded and packed with quirky boutiques, this Paris Covered Passage is always fun to walk. This is also the most touristy passage thanks to Musée Grevin , the Parisian version of Madame Tussaud’s, with the exit inside this Passage.

Don’t miss its architecture: this is the first Parisian walkway built entirely of metal and glass, with the only exception of the decorative elements in wood. We also like the floor, paved with a geometric pattern of white, gray, and black squares.

» OUR MUST SEE’S: Pain d’Épices (#29) and La Boite à Joujoux (#41) are two old-fashioned toy shops worth a visit even if you don’t have kids. Quirky Segas (#34) specializes in antique walking sticks. Librairie du Passage (#48) proposes second-hand books and beautiful vintage posters.

» THE PERFECT BREAK: stop at Café Zéphyr (12 Boulevard de Montmartre) to enjoy a nice Art Déco atmosphere and eat some cakes. And why not sleep inside the passage? Stay at charming Hôtel Chopin (#46) for a unique Belle Époque experience, with good deals if you book in advance.

» PASSAGE JOUFFROY OPENING HOURS: Monday to Saturday from 8.30 am to 7.30 pm. Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm.

6. Passage Brady Paris – The Most Exotic

Adress: 43, Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin, Paris 10; Metro station Chateau d’Eau Line 4 or Strasbourg Saint-Denis Lines 4,8, and 9.

Passage Brady , in Paris 9, is the most exotic of the Covered Passages in Paris. It is easy to understand why Passage Brady is called ‘Little India’ by the locals: this colorful and perfumed Paris Walkway is full of Indian, Pakistan, Mauritian, and Réunion curry restaurants, spice shops, and bazaars.

Passage Brady was built in 1828 by the merchant M. Brady from whom it took the name. Passage Brady was originally a beautiful Covered Passage with an elegant dome to compensate for its irregular layout. During the Hausmanninan works, in 1854, the passage was cut to let the new Boulevard de Strasbourg pass.

Today, only the part connecting Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis to Boulevard de Strasbourg is covered. Don’t miss the beautiful Art Nouveau inscription with the Passage’s name at the entrance. The view from the eateries located on the first floor deserves a lunch break at Passage Brady.

» OUR MUST SEE’S: Épicerie Velan (#87) to buy Indian and Pakistani specialties (and any kind of species).

» THE PERFECT BREAK: La Reine du Kashmir (#80), a restaurant awarded by different Indian gastronomy prices.

» PASSAGE BRADY OPENING HOURS:  Monday to Saturday from 9.30 am to 11.30 pm; Sunday from 6 pm to 11.30 pm.

7. Passage Choiseul – The Longest

Adress: 40 Rue des Petits-Champs, Paris 2; Metro station Pyramides, Lines 7 and 14.

Passage Choiseul , in Paris 2, was named after d’Étienne-François de Choiseul-Beaupré-Stainville, War Minister and Foreign Affairs Minister during King Louis XV’s reign. As you can see on the Paris Passages Map, this Paris walkway is as long as this man’s name! With 190 meters in length, this is the longest of all the Covered Passages in Paris.

Thanks to a deep, recent restoration, the beautiful glass roof is now bathing the walkway with natural light. The first and second floors of this passage are occupied by shops, while the third floor is mainly residential. The Thêatre des Bouffes Parisiennes (1857) has its secondary exit in the Passage, so there is a certain animation after the show.

» THE PERFECT BREAK: Go to Bio Burger (#46) for a fast-food break 100% organic. There is no better place to relax than the Zzen – Bar à Sieste (#29), where you can take a good nap.

» PASSAGE CHOISEUL OPENING HOURS: From Monday to Saturday from 8 am to 8 pm. Closed on Sundays.

8. Passage du Bourg-l’Abbé – Unique Atmosphere

Adress: 120 Rue Saint-Denis and 3 Rue de Palestro, Paris 2; Metro station Étienne Marcel , Line 4.

Passage du Bourg-l’Abbé in Paris 2 was built in early 1828 by the architect Auguste Lusson between the Passage du Grand Cerf and the Passage de l’Ancre. It formed a long walk that allowed shelter from bad weather and traffic.

Years later, the passage was amputated by several meters during the construction of Boulevard de Sébastopol and Rue Palestro. The new entrance to the passage opening on Rue Palestro was the work of Henri Blondel, the architect who also designed the Paris Stock Exchange. The two caryatids that frame the entrance represent Industry (left) and Commerce (right). At the key, a hive embedded in a cartouche also translated the economic activity of the passage.

After the 1980s, the Passage was in deplorable condition. The commercial spaces did not seek to attract visitors or enhance the passage; they were used primarily as warehouses.

Victim of a fire in the 1990s, the place was almost abandoned until the condominium found the necessary funds for the restoration works. From 2002 to 2008, this Covered Passage was renovated entirely, and little by little, Passage Bourg-l’Abbé is trying to find its lost charm again.

» THE PERFECT BREAK:  admire the soil, canopies, and interior facades with beautiful painted decoration. All these elements are listed as Historic Monuments and protected. At the end of the passage, a clock faces a barometer that no longer works.

» PASSAGE DE BOURG-L’ABBÉ OPENING HOURS:  From Monday to Saturday from 7.30 am to 7.30 pm. Closed on Sundays.

9. Passage des Deux Pavillons – The Victim

Adress: 6, Rue de Beaujolais, Paris 1; Metro station Bourse , Line 3.

Passage des Deux Pavillons is the shortest of all the Covered Passages Paris has to offer, and it connects the Gardens of Palais Royal in Paris 1 to Rue des Petit-Champs in Paris 2.

Passage des Deux Pavillons was built in 1820 by piercing one of the buildings, and just like the building, it’s 33 meters long.

The current layout of this Passage is a consequence of the eternal fight between the owners of Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert to attract visitors.

Originally, this Passage had a cross shape, and from the Gardens of Palais Royal, it was naturally ending in front of Galerie Colbert. The owner of Galerie Vivienne bought this Passage and modified the layout to make it end just in front of his Galerie Vivienne.

Today, Passage des Deux Pavillons continues to be an excellent shortcut to Galerie Vivienne, and even if it is nothing exceptional, it is well worth a short visit now that you know its history!

Sleep in and Around the Best Passages in Paris

Hotel Chopin Paris is located inside one of the most beautiful Covered Passages in Paris, the Passage Jouffroy . Join the passage’s busy life during the day and enjoy its special atmosphere at night when the stores close. Have a quiet sleep, far from the busy streets of Paris! The hotel proposes very good deals if you book in advance – Click here for the Latest Prices

Accommodation near the Louvre Museum is also a good option for exploring the secret Passages of Paris and many other tourist sights. Check out some of the best hotels near the Louvre Museum , with something for every budget.

And there you have it, the list of the most charming Covered Passages Paris has to offer. Which one would you choose for a stroll right now?

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Quirky parisian explorer with a preference for lesser-known sights, i am continuously looking for new ideas and tips to bring you the best of the city of light read more about me ., i am elisa, the travel blogger behind world in paris. quirky explorer with a preference for the local side of my city and its lesser-known sights, i am continuously looking for new ideas to enjoy the best of paris & around . do you want to go beyond the louvre museum or the eiffel tower keep clicking for first-hand information & my best tips learn more.

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Covered Passages of Paris: A free self guided walking tour of Paris arcades with map

January 21, 2018 by Karen Turner 20 Comments

If you’re visiting Paris, you might be looking for something unusual to do in Paris besides seeing the Eiffel Tower.  Either way, you will not want to miss the arcades of Paris.   In my time living in Paris, I loved getting lost in the covered passages in Paris, which retain an air of magic and make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

This free self-guided walking tour through Paris should give you glimpse into the secret Paris that Parisians know, love, and guard with their lives. This walk through the covered passages of Paris includes some of Paris’ most beautiful passages, including Passage Verdeau, Galerie Vivienne, and Passage des Panoramas as well as some off the beaten path attractions.

This free walking tour of the covered passages in Paris is about 4 kilometers total and it should take you about an hour without stopping, so be sure to wear comfortable shoes.

You’re better off doing your walk through the Paris arcades prior to 5pm on a weekday if possible as shops might close after 5pm and it will be less crowded.  Plan for about 2-3 hours if you follow this itinerary with stopping off to take photos.   Click for my perfect four days in Paris itinerary.

*PRINTABLE MAP OF COVERED PASSAGES AT BOTTOM WITH STEP-BY-STEP DIRECTIONS*  You can also do this route in reverse very easily. 😉

• 1 Starting point of the walk
• 2 Passage Verdeau
• 3 Lunch or dinner at Le Bouillon Chartier
• 4 Passage Jouffroy ​
• 5 Passage des Panoramas
• 6 Galerie Colbert ​
• 7 Galerie Vivienne
• 8 Jardin du Palais Royal & Surrounding Galeries
• 9 Le Palais Royal
• 10 Galerie Véro-Dodat
• 11 Stop for a cocktail at Le Reset
• 12 Passage du Bourg l’Abbé & Passage du Grand Cerf
• 13 Passage Molière
• 14 59 Rivoli
• 15 If you’ve visited any of the covered passages in Paris, which one is your favorite? ​

Starting point of the walk

Start off your trip at the Cadet Metro Stop , which is along the 7 line.  Walk a block towards Passage Verdeau.  On the way, you’ll pass La Mere de Famille , a beautiful old school Parisian confectery.

Passage Verdeau

 Passage Verdeau is a covered arcade built in 1847 named for its founder.  It is an antique lovers paradise with many antique bookshops.  Even if your budget is fairly low, you can get some lovely vintage postcards from Paris.

Passage Verdeau tends to be less crowded than the surrounding passages. Arcades are the precursors to modern-day malls as we know them.

Lunch or dinner at Le Bouillon Chartier

If you’re hungry for lunch or dinner, be sure to get in line at Le Bouillon Chartier, one of Paris’ most affordable French restaurants.  The line can be long although the atmosphere as well as the food is worth it.  

Amazingly, Parisians actually come here, so although you’ll find tourists and an English menu (if necessary).  The menu changes daily and if you’re after trying traditionally French food, be sure to stop off here.

Passage Jouffroy ​

Passage Jouffroy is my favorite passage in Paris and it is one of the most famous passages in Paris for good reason.  Its interesting window displays as well as the fact that it houses a hotel (Hotel Chopin), museum, and nightclub within its walls.  

Within Passage Jouffroy, you’ll find the quirk factor with businesses like La Maison du Roy, specializing in antique inspired decorations, as well as Cannes Fayet, which specializes in walking sticks/canes.  I also have a weakness for the miniature furniture store on the corner next to Hotel Chopin.

If you’re interested in staying in the covered passages, you can stay at Hotel Chopin , a charming boutique hotel in the middle of Passage Jouffroy with a friendly cat.

Passage des Panoramas

 If you continue forward, you’ll be in Passage des Panoramas, which is full of vintage stamp/coin shops as well as restaurants.  Here, you’ll find one of Paris’ best restaurants for gluten free dining at Noglu .  

After you see the passage, exit and walk a couple blocks down towards Galerie Colbert (check hours).

Galerie Colbert ​

Galerie Colbert has limited hours as it’s part of the National Library.  Its stunning marble columns might still call to you.  When I visited, we were the only ones there besides a random person scurrying between rooms.

Unlike other Parisian covered passages, there are no stores here, but the atmosphere is a nice change. Don’t be deterred by the security guards although I’d avoid bringing a backpack if possible as it might cause issues.

Galerie Vivienne

After visiting Galerie Colbert, walk around the block to see Galerie Vivienne, another famous passage although you’ll find it full of tourists.  Within it, you’ll still find a variety of shops, mostly with luxury goods, although there’s some adorable used bookstores.  

I didn’t successfully get into the one with the miniature second story, but you’re likely to find plenty to admire within this long passage. It has multiple entrances, so just be aware of where you exit.

Jardin du Palais Royal & Surrounding Galeries

Afterwards, walk through the iconic Jardin du Palais Royal.  Imagine yourself in a movie here.  This is the domain of Parisians walking their dogs although depending on which side you’re closer to, you’ll discover some galeries surrounding Jardin du Palais Royal with exclusive clothing brands as well as artisanal goods.  

If you’re looking for something truly unique, stop off along Galerie de Valois and Galerie de Montpensier after enjoying a relaxing stroll in the park.

Le Palais Royal

After walking through Jardin du Palais Royal, you’ll end up by Le Palais Royal, the former royal palace dating back to the 17th century.  It’s now used by the French government although you’ll find tourists and Parisians posing on its striped columns within the courtyard.

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Although Galerie Véro-Dodat is a bit smaller than some of the other covered passages in Paris, I loved how quiet and serene it was.

Given that you’re about to enter one of the most crowded parts of Paris, enjoy this moment and the beautiful black-and-white floor marble floor tiles.  Interestingly, it was one of the first galeries to have gas lighting, an achievement at the time.

There used to be more businesses in Galerie Véro-Dodat, but after after stagecoaches declined in popularity, its location close to a stagecoach hub meant that it lost a lot of businesses. There’s some clothing businesses and high-end art galleries within the gallery today.

Stop for a cocktail at Le Reset

After this, you’ll be walking through a very high traffic area. If it’s almost five (somewhere), stop off at Reset.  Reset is one of my favorite bars in Paris.

If you’re into video games, this geeky bar is a must with some delicious cocktails accompanied by old-school videogames.  This is where you’ll find me out in Paris. 😉

Passage du Bourg l’Abbé & Passage du Grand Cerf

After a refreshing drink, you can stop in at Passage du Bourg l’Abbé, one of the smallest passages in Paris, with many art galleries.

It’s very close to the entrance to Passage du Grand Cerf, so if you’re not tired of Passages yet, be sure to stop in at the little boutiques. The entrances for these are a bit tougher to spot compared to the larger galleries. ​

Passage Molière

Continue walking towards Passage Molière, which differs considerably from the other galleries that you’ve seen so far. It’s not a covered passage as it’s open-air, but it has cobblestones still, which gives it an old world vibe with a twist.

It became famous for the theatre located there for many years, but you’ll find boutiques that cater to things that you never knew that you needed. I know it’s not technically a covered passage, but if you’re into secret Paris, be sure to stop in here.

Lastly, stop in at 59 Rivoli, an artist-owned building that used to be an artist squat.  Now, this building has been apportioned into artist studios and every day people can stroll in most days (besides Monday) to see the artists in action.

The facade is often changing although it’s always a unique sight to behold and be sure to bring some extra cash with you as you might find some interesting art (along with stories) to bring home with you as you can discuss the work with the artists themselves.

Most of the artists ask people NOT to take photos of their work without permission, so be careful shutter-bugs when visiting this off the beaten path sight in Paris. 

I hope you enjoyed this self guided walking tour of Paris’ covered passages and it encourages you to discover a bit more of the parts of Paris that make it truly special.  Click for another local’s one day guide to off the beaten path Paris .

If you’ve visited any of the covered passages in Paris, which one is your favorite? ​

Click for the printable version of the map.

About Karen Turner

New Yorker–born and raised. Currently living in the Hague, the Netherlands after stints in Paris and Amsterdam. Lover of travel, adventure, nature, city, dresses, and cats.

Reader Interactions

January 26, 2018 at 3:51 pm

What an amazing walking tour! I currently live in Paris and have been meaning to explore the other covered passages besides Galerie Vivienne. Thanks for sharing!!

January 27, 2018 at 9:40 am

I hadn’t realised they were so extensive, what a wonderful guide!

January 27, 2018 at 9:56 am

Sure does look like some hidden gems here! Will keep it in mind when I next visit Paris.

January 27, 2018 at 8:33 pm

Karen… this is SO excellent! I have NO idea these even existed! Absolutely adding this to my to-do list when I (eventually) make it over to Paris – and the map is super helpful. 😀

January 28, 2018 at 4:06 pm

This is so awesome! I’m heading to Paris for the first time next month and love the idea of exploring all the little galleries and passages.

March 17, 2018 at 10:37 pm

Hi, Thanks for this wonderful information. I had no idea these existed, but definitely want to wander through them next month when in Paris. Is there a printable version of the directions?

March 20, 2018 at 3:42 pm

Thank you – this walk looks amazing. Please can you also email me a printable version of the directions?

Thank you in advance,

March 29, 2018 at 5:40 am

Hi there, Loved reading it and would also love a printable version

All the best Åse

March 29, 2018 at 5:45 am

Hi Åse, Glad to hear that and thanks for reading. You’ll find a link to the printable version right above the map. 🙂

Best, Karen

April 30, 2018 at 1:16 pm

Heading to Paris on our honeymoon in a few weeks and would also love a printable map of this tour of arcades!!

Thank you!! JW

April 30, 2018 at 5:10 pm

You’ll find the printable version within the article if you look towards the end!

June 19, 2018 at 8:38 pm

The passages are very nice. However, we had a terrible dining experience at Le Bouillon Chartier. One dish was inedible, the steak was chewy and hard, we sent it back, the waiter ignored us, then made a joke about it, took the utensils from my companion’s hand to show that the steak was soft, it was so hard that he spilled half of the french fries on the table trying to slice the steak! What type of waiter dare to challenge a customer like that and take the utensils from their hands? That give you some perspective of this place attitude. At the end, we complained to the maitre but he was so busy seating people. This restaurant was 100% full of tourists, they don’t really care about returning customers. I would not encourage people to dine there. Otherwise, the galleries and passages are great places to walk around.

February 9, 2019 at 7:52 pm

My wife and I absolutely love this post and have added this walk to our Paris itinerary. Our first time in Paris for 6 nights the first week in June, 2019. Thank you for the wonderful ideas!

Jeff & Deb

March 14, 2019 at 3:50 am

Makes me want to go back to Paris just for these passages!

May 2, 2019 at 4:10 am

There is no link to print the walk only for the map. Help! I leave for Paris and would love, love being able to do this. Thank you.

June 7, 2019 at 11:59 pm

Hello. I used the link she provided with the map and it worked really well. Enjoy!

August 19, 2019 at 2:28 pm

This was so amazing! Only bummer is that I saved it for my last day, which was a Monday, and the majority of the shops are closed on Sunday/Monday! Best to go Tuesday-Saturday, as advice to fellow travelers!

Thank you for the tour, though. I’d never have found these otherwise!

February 28, 2022 at 4:32 am

Thanks for the advice! I am leaving for Paris in three days for slightly over two weeks. I had originally planned to visit the passages on a Monday. I’ll be making some changes to my itinerary. Thank you!!!

November 7, 2020 at 1:31 am

I was wondering what the hours are for the shops. Although they probably varyI would like to get a general idea so I don’t head out too early. Thanks.

September 3, 2022 at 7:29 am

Congrats Karen. That information is so good. Im going for the first time to Paris, I will keep your recommendations in mind, thanks so much!

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Best Covered Passages in Paris

A Complete Guide

• Paris Attractions
• Covered Passages

The Best Covered Passages in Paris: How to Explore These Hidden Gems

Do you love veering off the usual tourist path to discover hidden gems when you travel to Paris? 

If your answer is "Yes," then put exploring Paris's covered passages, or "passages couverts" as they are called in French, high on your Paris bucket list.  

Want to Explore Paris's Covered Passages with a Guide?

Here are our top Covered Passages tour recommendations:

• Covered Passages Walking Tour - Discover hidden Paris lanes and walkways on this tour of 5 covered passages filled with vintage treasures
• Discover Secret Passages in Paris - See trendy boutiques, cool cafes, and hip art galleries and then enjoy specialty wine and pastries on this small group tour

An afternoon spent wandering through these little-known 18th- and 19th-century private shopping lanes will give you a fascinating glimpse of an almost-forgotten era in the city's history.

With their spectacular glass roofs and elaborate Neoclassical, Art Nouveau, and even Art Deco decor and embellishments, the historical covered passages in Paris's central districts offer you a unique place to shop for artisan gifts, enjoy a casual meal, and soak up the rich architectural, social, and cultural details.

Located mostly on Paris's wealthier Right Bank, covered passages are essentially private pedestrian-only roads built between existing buildings.  They typically connect two or more main thoroughfares.  Iron gates or massive wooden doors at each end get closed and locked every night.

Although you may be able to spot the passages' entrances (they are easy to miss unless you know where to look) from the street, you'll get little sense of what's inside.

But once you venture in from the street, you'll discover a completely different universe.

Spectacular glass roofs let light pour in while protecting walkers from rain and cold.   Rows of shops, cafes, and sometimes theaters and concert halls line both sides of the covered walkways. 

To maximize their profits, builders typically added upper floors for apartments, often with interior windows overlooking the passages.  Today, if you look up, you may still see these dwellings (although some now function as offices).

To attract wealthy upper middle-class shoppers, many passages displayed elaborate decor and embellishments in neoclassical, art nouveau, and even art deco styles - which is still part of their allure. 

Some practically drip with gilding, marble, mosaics, fancy clocks, mirrors, sculpture, elaborate wood paneling, and decorative paintings, which of course adds to their charm.  Even if you have no interest in shopping, the ornamentation makes the passages worth seeing.

How Many Covered Passages Still Exist in Paris?

Today, 21 covered passages still exist in Paris, although that number includes one (Passage des Princes) that is closed for either major renovations or demolition and another (Passage Aïad) that is closed to the public. 

Although we include the modern Passage du Havre shopping mall in this article for reference, all that it shares with the original covered passage is its name and location, so it is not included in the count of 21.

How many covered passages once existed in Paris?  Based on historical property records, maps, and other sources, French researchers and architectural historians have identified 20 additional covered pa>ssages (including Passage du Havre) that were demolished.

Adding the 20 destroyed passages to the 21 that still remain, that means a total of 41 of these special historical sites existed in Paris at some point.

In this article, you'll find our comprehensive guide to Paris's hidden passages with descriptions, details, and visiting information about all of the 21 remaining covered passages. 

If you want to see an authentic non-touristy part of Paris or even just find an interesting activitity for a rainy day, spend an hour or more exploring these charming 19th century shopping and entertainment destinations packed with 21st century appeal.

Paris Covered Passages Walking Tours

To explore Paris's covered passes with an expert guide, join one of these popular walking tours:

Please note:  Although the information about open days and hours was accurate (to the best of our knowledge) at the time of publication and we update it periodically, it may change at any time.  Please verify days/times before coming, and be flexible with your plans in case of unexpected closures.  Most of these passages close on public holidays, many close on Sundays, and some also close during part or all of August.

Top photo: Galerie Vivienne, covered passage in Paris's 2nd district, (c) Paris Discovery Guide

Paris Discovery Guide is a reader-supported publication.  When you buy through our links, we may earn a commission at no additional cost for you.  Learn more

How to Use this Guide to Covered Passages in Paris

Covered passage map.

Use this map showing Paris's covered passages to plot your walking route:

Article Contents

This article is long and packed with information and tips.  If you're interested in a specific passage, use these quick links:

• Covered Passages near Palais Royal - Galerie Vero Dodat, Galerie Vivienne, Galerie Colbert, Passage des Deux Pavillons - 1st and 2nd arrondissements
• Covered Passages near the Grands Boulevards - Passage du Choiseul, Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau, Passage des Princes - 2nd and 9th arrondissements
• Covered Passages along Paris's Charles V Wall  - Passage du Grand Cerf, Passage du Bourg Abbé, Passage du Caire, Passage Ponceau, Passage Brady, Passage du Prado, Passage Vendome, Passage Ben Aïad - 2nd, 3rd, and 10th arrondissements
• Covered Passages near Place de Madeleine - Galerie de la Madeleine, Passage du Havre, Passage Puteaux - 8th and 9th arrondissements
• Covered Passages along Champs Elysees -  Les Arcades des Champs-Elysees 8th arrondissement
• A Left Bank Covered Passage with Medieval Roots - Cour du Commerce Saint-André - 6th arrondissement10

Covered Passage Star Ratings

To help you decide whether you want to visit (or not), we've given each passage a star ranking:

★★★  - The crème de crème of these hidden gems: the most beautiful, charming, and/or fascinating covered passages, and well worth a special trip to explore, and perfect for shopping, a meal, or spending a rainy afternoon

★★  - Stop by and explore if you happen to be in the neighborhood or if you happen to have a special interest in what's on offer inside

★  - Most of these are currently closed, with an unclear future - but if you're nearby, you can at least see the exterior, and, if you're curious, you may be able to peer inside

Covered Passages Near Palais Royal

• Galerie Vero Dodat
• Galerie Vivienne
• Galerie Colbert
• Passage des Deux Pavillons

Galerie Véro-Dodat:  Paris's Most Elegant and Luxurious Covered Passage  ★★★

When Galerie Véro-Dodat opened in 1826 just as Parisians' passion for covered passages was sweeping full-force across the city, it stood out from other nearby competitors because of its elegant neoclassical design, assortment of luxury boutiques, and stunning peaked glass ceilings. 

It still does.

Identical wood-paneled shop fronts with tall arched glass windows, ornate columns, mirrors topped by glass light globes, ceiling paintings of mythological Greek characters between the glass roofs, and a beautifully maintained black and white marble floor give you a lot to admire here, even before you enter the shops.

Built by a local charcutier (butcher) named Benoît Véro and a wealthy financier named Dodat, the passage gave Parisians a convenient short cut between the shops under the covered arcades surrounding the Palais Royal Garden and Les Halles,  Paris's former central fresh food market.

Galerie Vero-Dodat's popularity soared almost as soon as it opened, and it retained its appeal until well into the 19th century, long after shoppers deserted other covered passages in favor of the new Bon Marché and other big department stores.  

After a top-to-bottom restoration in 1997, the passage again displays its original beauty.

Although the two Louboutin showrooms overlooking Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau may be the showstoppers, the art galleries, antique and home decor stores, an antiquarian bookseller, jewelry and accessories shops, and luxury clothing boutiques are outstanding. 

Many of the shop owners are specialists in their fields, and attract international clientele.

For example, if you are a highly acclaimed gypsy jazz guitarist from another European country and need a specialized repair on your Selmer Maccaferri, you'll seek out the expertise at the stringed instrument and sales showroom at F. Charle. 

The rest of us will be content to just drool at the vintage concert posters in the window.

Galerie Véro Dodat also includes a couple of appealing and affordable places to eat:  historic Café de l'Epoque, which serves up classic French brasserie dishes, and Restaurant Véro-Dodat, which specializes in simple homemade dishes. 

Véro-Dodat Gallery location: Entrances at 2 Rue du Bouloi and 19 Rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau ; 1st arrondissement

Open:  Monday - Saturday, 7am - 10pm

Other nearby attractions:   Contemporary art at the Pinault Collection in the Bourse de Commerce;  kitchenware emporium E. Dehillerin on Rue Coquillière.  Also nearby:  Seine River, Louvre Museum, Palais Royal Garden, Les Halles, Saint-Eustasche Church

Galerie Vivienne:  Still Charming & Beautiful after 200 Years  ★★★

Upscale Galerie Vivienne (entrances at 6 Rue Vivienne, 5 Rue de la Banque, and on Rue des Petits-Champs) opened in 1826 after three years of construction. 

The owner, a notaire (the French term for a real estate lawyer) named Marchoux lived at 6 Rue Vivienne and bought several adjacent properties for development, with room for an L-shaped passage running between them. 

To maximize the available space, Marchoux's architect designed a passage punctuated by spacious areas perfect for dining and wine-sipping, which you can still enjoy today.

Almost 200 years after it opened, Galerie Vivienne continues to be one of the loveliest of the Paris passages, thanks to its beautifully restored original mosaic floors, decorative elements inspired by ancient Greece, a soaring steel-and-glass roof over a rotunda, and numerous high-end clothing boutiques, gift shops and specialty stores, including antique and vintage shops.

Most notably, Jean-Paul Gautier put Galerie Vivienne on the luxury fashion map when he opened his flagship boutique there in 1986, not long after Madonna and other designers have followed even though Gautier has moved on. 

If you are an oenophile, you'll want to stop by Lucien Legrande Filles et Fils to browse their superb selections of wines and gourmet foods, or experience a special wine tasting event or meal in its adjacent restaurant, Le Comptoir de Dégustation. 

Across the passage, Bistro Vivienne serves French cuisine favorites. 

Nearby:  Galerie Colbert and Passage des Deux Pavillons, Rue Sainte-Anne Asian restaurants, Palais Garnier (Paris Opera House)

Entrances:   4 Rue des Petits-Champs, 6 Rue Vivienne, and 5 Rue de la Banque; nearest metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Open:  Monday - Sunday, 8:30am - 8:30pm

More to Explore:  If you are interested in design (and eventually seeing another covered passage), leave Galerie Vivienne through the Rue de la Banque exit. 

Take a few moments to admire the Notre Dame des Victoires Basilica to your left, and then walk up Rue du Mail for excellent window-shopping at interior design, furniture, and fabric showrooms. 

Once you pass Rue Montmartre, the street become Rue de Clery in the Sentier neighborhood. 

One street over is Rue d'Aboukir, where you can find another covered passage, Passage du Caire (to spot its entrance, look for Hotel du Sentier).

What Made Paris's Covered Passages So Popular? 

The first covered passages began to pop up in Paris during the late 1700s to provide the newly emerging bourgeois (middle class) with sheltered spots for indulging in their favorite leisure activities: strolling, meeting up with friends, shopping for luxury items, dining, drinking, and even attending the theater or seeing a show.  They can be seen as precursors of today's shopping malls and entertainment complexes.

The Paris of 250 years ago is almost impossible to imagine as you walk around the city today - but at that time, Paris was still basically medieval in its design and amenities, defined by small half-timbered buildings, narrow winding lanes, no sidewalks, and open sewers. 

Every time rain fell, the lanes filled with mud that horse-drawn carriages splashed onto any pedestrians brave or unlucky enough to be walking along the edge of the roads.  And thanks to the horses, mud wasn't the only messy substance hitting the walkers.   In addition, the city smelled really, really bad.

To address these needs (and, of course, to make money), developers, investors, speculators, and capitalists created a new type of urban environment: covered passages.  Once you visit one, you'll see why they're considered the precursors of modern shopping malls.

Galerie Colbert  - A Spectacular Reconstruction (But No Shops!)   ★★

The first two things you'll notice about Galerie Colbert are 1) its spectacular rotunda topped by a glass dome, and 2) it contains just one restaurant, the splendid and very popular brasserie, Le Grand Colbert, and no shops.   

That's because the National Library of the Institut de France bought the 1826 covered gallery (along with its next-door neighbor, Galerie Vivienne) in the 1980s.  It now houses the National Institute of Art History plus a number of cultural institutions. 

Galerie Colbert owes much of its beauty to Adam & Company, a group of speculators who noticed the almost instant commercial success of nearby Galerie Vivienne after its 1826 opening. 

They decided to compete with Galerie Vivienne by opening later that year an even more elaborate and beautiful covered passage next door featuring opulent Pompeian-style decor, spacious halls, and of course (since Galerie Vivienne had one), a gorgeous rotunda.

To ensure a competitive advantage, they located its entrance directly across the street from Passage des Deux Pavillons in the hope that shoppers leaving Palais Royal would head to their passage instead of the slightly less convenient Galerie Vivienne. 

Not surprisingly, the relationship between the owners of the two rival passages quickly deteriorated.

But Adam & Co's scheme to divert Galerie Vivienne's customers to Galerie Colbert backfired when Galerie Vivienne's owner outwitted them by promptly buying Passage des Deux Pavillons and rerouting its entrance to open directly across from Galerie Vivienne.

Even though Galerie Colbert enjoyed a surge of success when it first opened, its popularity soon began to decline, and never recovered.

By the time the National Library acquired Galerie Colbert, it had been closed to the public for about a decade.  Its rotunda was totally missing; overall, the structure was beyond repair.  The passage had to be demolished and was rebuilt in 1985 under the direction of French architect Louis Blanchet, who specialized in the restoration of historical buildings.

You can still walk through Galerie Colbert (after passing a security check point) to admire the dome and ornate glass-roofed passage.  It's well worth seeing, especially on a sunny day. 

Even though the passage you'll experience today is a reproduction, it is believed to closely resemble the original in most regards, including the meticulous re-creation of the Pompeian Italian decor.

The biggest difference, of course, is the lack of shops.

For a special treat, enjoy a meal at Le Grande Colbert, which was also renovated in 1985 and is now one of Paris's loveliest Belle Epoque-style brasseries featuring ornate Art Nouveau and Pompeian decorations and an appealing (and reasonably affordable) menu with an emphasis on seafood.

Nearby:  Passage Vivienne and Passage des Deux Pavillons, Palais Royal Garden, Louvre Museum

Entrances:   6 Rue des Petits-Champs, 4 Rue Vivienne; nearest metro: Bourse or Pyramides

More to See:  For a special treat, enjoy a meal at Le Grande Colbert, a former bouillon (a type of French restaurant that became popular in the late 1800s/early 1900s and that serves simple, traditional cuisine at affordable prices) which was also renovated in 1985 and is now one of Paris's loveliest Belle Epoque-style brasseries featuring rather elaborate Art Nouveau (typical in bouillons) and Pompeian decor and an appealing, reasonably affordable menu with an emphasis on seafood.

Passage des Deux Pavillons:  Artisans & Specialty Boutiques   ★★

Passage des Deux Pavillons, the second-shortest of Paris's covered shopping passages, opened in 1820 as a covered walkway between the elegant late 18th century Palais Royal arcades and Rue des Petit-Champs. 

The most dramatic moments in the passage's history arose from a bitter rivalry between the owners of two covered walkways on the other side of Rue des Petit-Champs, Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert, which both opened in 1826. 

When the developers of Galerie Colbert noticed the popularity of newly-opened Galerie Vivienne, thanks in part to its proximity to Passage des Deux Pavillons' entrance, they designed Galerie Colbert so that its own entrance would be directly across the street. 

Shoppers, the developers reasoned, would take the most direct path into their own passage.

And that's exactly what happened - until the owners of Galerie Vivienne bought Passage des Deux Pavillons and repositioned its entrance to be directly across from their own.

You'll experience the effect of this bit of history as you navigate the rather strange twists and turns you'll encounter as you explore the walkway.

What makes Passage des Deux Pavillons fascinating today is its unique selection of highly skilled artisans and specialty boutiques, such as Derville, the maker of bespoke made-to-measure shoes, leather bags, and lovely small (and affordable) gift-worthy leather items.

Entrances:   6 Rue de Beaujolais (lower level by Palais Royal), 5 Rue des Petits-Champs (upper level), 1st arrondissement

Other nearby attractions:   The covered arcades surrounding Palais Royal Garden; Willi's Wine Bar (13 rue des Petits Champs); the Musée du Louvre on the other side of Rue de Rivoli 

Covered Passages near the Grands Boulevards

The 2nd arrondissement is where you'll find the biggest assortment of covered passages, including several of the most popular and most fascinating.

If you're looking for rainy day activities in Paris, you could easily fill the entire day exploring them and still perhaps not have enough time to visit every one - especially if you take time out for a leisurely lunch, perhaps visit the Grevin Wax Museum in Passage Jouffroy, and relax over a glass of wine at a cafe for some quality people-watching time.

Quick links to passages in this section: 

• Passage du Choiseul
• Passage des Panoramas
• Passage Jouffroy
• Passage Verdeau
• Passages des Princes

Passage Choiseul - Artisan Boutiques & Asian Bistros near Rue Sainte-Anne  ★★★

Dating back to 1826, Passage Choiseul is an extension of Rue de Choiseul (entrances at 40 Rue des Petits-Champs and 23 Rue Saint-Augustin) near the trendy Rue Sainte-Anne neighborhood, known for its many popular Asian restaurants and shops.

Passage Choiseul contains a variety of antique and vintage shops, galleries, clothing boutiques, jewelers, and specialty businesses, some of which have been here for over a century. 

If you're shopping for unique gifts for deserving recipients (such as yourself), be sure to stop by Lavrut (#52), featuring gorgeous art supplies, and Boisnard, an engraver and printing shop that also carries irresistible leather goods, notebooks, and pens.

Of course, plenty of the other specialty boutiques here offer many gift-worthy items - everything from inexpensive 10€ canvas shopping bags printed with cute designs that you won't see anywhere else to very expensive exquisite antiques and artworks.

There are also plenty of things between these two extremes, including several fashion boutiques with unique and original designs.

You may spend much more time browsing here than you expected when you walked in.

In recent years, Passage Choiseul has attracted a number of Korean and Japanese bistros and high-end specialty businesses such as clothing designers, jewelry, and sculpture.  If you're in Paris in early December, don't miss the pop-up Japanese Christmas Market which takes place here, usually for about three days.

The Asian boutiques create a strong synergy with the many Asian restaurants along nearby Rue Sainte-Anne and side streets. 

Passage Choiseul's Asian connections go back to 1970 when Japanese fashion designer Kenzo Takada opened his first Paris boutique here and hung out frequently with fellow designers Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld at the Le Sept disco on nearby Rue Sainte-Anne. 

At that time Le Sept (which closed a decade later) formed the epicenter for trendy clubs frequented by artists, musicians, fashion designers, as well as much of Paris's younger gay community.

Kenzo (as the designer was known) is credited with creating such a buzz for the area that Japanese guidebooks started listing it as a Paris destination, thus attracting Japanese tourists who had begun visiting Paris in large numbers at this time.  This led to more Japanese businesses opening in the area.  

After a decade in Passage Choiseul, Kenzo and other designers moved slightly east to Place des Victoires - but the Asian influence in this part of the 2nd continues to grow, with Korean restaurants and markets currently enjoying a big surge of popularity.

Bonus:  The arcade is also home to Théâtre des Bouffes Parisiens, founded in 1855 by composer Jacques Offenbach, who used it to stage light ("comic") Italian operas plus his own most famous work, "Orpheus in the Underworld."  Today, the 600-seat Italian-style theater currently hosts popular musicals and operettas (in French).

Tip:  You can also access Passage Choiseul from Rue Sainte-Anne via Passage Sainte-Anne - but don't expect a glass roof and light-filled space - it's more like a dark hallway where you'll sometimes see mops and other cleaning supplies propped by the walls. 

More about Passage Sainte-Anne

Passage Sainte-Anne was added to Passage Choiseul in 1829 to provide access from Rue Sainte-Anne. 

Similar to the short galleries branching from Passage of Panoramas (described in the next section) to nearby streets, Passage Sainte-Anne intended to give an additional point of entry to Passage Choiseul, rather than to function as a separate entity. 

Although initially small vendors such as tailors and cobblers occupied tiny stalls lining both sides of Passage Sainte-Anne, its narrow width proved to be insufficient for all but the simplest one-person businesses such as tailors and cobblers.

Fun Fact:  French Symbolist poet Charles Baudelaire ("Les Fleurs du Mal") lived for a few months in 1854 in the building next to the Passage Sainte-Anne entrance which is now Hôtel Baudelaire Opera.

Entrances:   40 Rue des Petits Champs, 23 Rue Saint-Augustin, and 40 Rue Dalayrac, and 59 Rue Sainte-Anne (via Passage Sainte-Anne); nearest metro: Quartre Septembre or Pyramides

Want to Explore the Passages with an Expert? 

Join a secret passages tour to learn more about the passages' history and where to find the best treasures today.

Passage des Panoramas:  A Stamp & Coin Collector's Paradise   ★★★

From the street, you won't get much of a clue about what you'll find inside Passage des Panoramas.  But don't let that stop you from going in and exploring the fascinating boutiques, or having a meal at one of the passage's many affordable bistros. 

Passage des Panoramas opened - sort of - in 1799 and, incidentally, was one of the first public spaces in Paris to later get gas lighting (1816-17). 

Today, Passage des Panoramas forms a maze at its southern end with four other glass-roofed arcades added in the 1830s to connect it to nearby streets and, of course, increase its profitability by expanding the amount of commercial space.  These add-on passages include Galerie Saint- Marc, Galerie Feydeau, Galerie Montmartre, Galerie des Variétes.  

Initially, however, the "passage" consisted only of two rotundas (round buildings) with landscapes called "panoramas" painted on their interior walls - a fashionable crowd-pleasing attraction in Paris at that time. 

During the following year, the panoramas' owner built an alley to link the rotundas to each other and also to Boulevard Montmartre and Rue Saint-Marc.  That's how the passage you see today began. 

The passage quickly became immensely popular with Parisians, partly because of its convenient location in a busy part of the city, and partly because of its assortment of elegant shops.

Théatre des Variétés, which opened in 1807 and continues to present musicals and comedies, anchors the end of Galerie des Variétés, the poshest part of Passage des Panoramas.

At its northern point, the passage ends at Boulevard Montmartre, across the street from the Grevin Wax Museum and Passage Jouffroy in the 9th arrondissement. 

Dealers specializing in antiques, stamps, and old coins traditionally occupied many of the small shops when Passage des Panoramas first opened.  They still do, although today you'll also find art galleries, vintage sellers, wine shops, jewelers, antique shops, clothing boutiques, and many small cafes and bistros.

Parts of Passage des Panoramas look fairly shabby (don't be put off - it's part of the vintage charm), while other sections seem to be under non-ending reconstruction.  Wander around and let your interests guide you while trying not to get lost in the maze.

Don't feel surprised if you end up spending much longer here than you expected.  You may even start thinking about becoming a stamp collector, based on all the fascinating postal-related items from around the world that you'll see here. 

And when you do finally leave, take a look at the shops along the streets near the passage's entrances.  On all sides, you'll discover treasure troves of fascinating boutiques, antique shops, stamp dealers, coin dealers, and galleries, especially along Rue Vivienne. 

In fact, if you walk south for a few blocks, you'll be back at Galerie Vivienne.  This entire section of the 2nd arrondissement is a collector's paradise.

Entrances:   10 Rue Saint-Marc, 11 Boulevard Montmartre, 38 Rue Vivienne, 151 Rue Montmartre, 2nd arrondissement; nearest metros: Bourse, Richelieu-Drouot, and Grands Boulevards

Open:  Monday - Sunday, 6am - 12 midnight

Nearby:   Passage Jouffroy, Musée Grevin (Wax Museum), and Drouot (9 Rue Drouot, free admission), Paris's premier auction house, a must-visit destination if you're fascinated by art, antiques, and vintage.

Passage Jouffroy   ★★★

Passage Jouffroy dates back to 1846, when it received engineering acclaim as the first passage to be constructed only from metal and glass, with wood used just as ornamentation. 

It also achieved another covered passage "first" with its heated floors- a highly appealing feature for winter-weary Parisians suffering from cold feet.

As you walk through the passage today, look down at the floor - you are walking on the original gray, black, and white tile pavers, restored as part of a total renovation in 1987. 

Rather than being linear, like most of Paris's other covered arcades, Passage Jouffroy makes a sharp turn at one point and reveals a second section separated from the first by a small flight of stairs.

A wonderfully eclectic mix of unique individually-owned boutiques featuring toys, miniatures, new and used books, Indian imports, stamps, handmade clothing, antiques, and jewelry share space with several bistros and cafes, the immensely entertaining Grevin Wax Museum, and entrances to two hotels:  Hôtel Chopin and Best Western Ronceray Opera.

Be sure to explore: 

• Pain d'Épices  - Toy store packed with wooden music boxes, stuffed teddy bears, board games, dolls, puzzles, toy trains.  Showstoppers: Doll houses with miniature furnishings, tiny food, accessories, garden tools - even battery-operated LED lights.  Come here to buy unique gifts from Paris you won't find anywhere else.
• Brésilophile - You'll see an enormous variety of crystals, geodes, carved quartz items, and lots more.  Most lust-worthy:  the crystal balls .
• Galerie Fayet - New and antique canes, walking sticks, and umbrellas pack this small shop.  Some are collectors' items, others are meant to be used, all are special.  You'll feel like you're in a special museum, where even the most precious items may be purchased.

Entrances:    9 Rue De La Grange Bateliere, 10-12 Boulevard Montmartre, in the 9th arrondissement; nearest metro: Grands Boulevards

What Are the Most Important Characteristics of Covered Passages? 

Paris's historical covered passages soared in popularity by providing four key characteristics that addressed the needs and wants of  bourgeois Parisians: 

• Pedestrian-only walkways carved out spaces between existing buildings give visitors a protected, paved shortcut between two main thoroughfares
• Spectacular glass roofs let light pour in (a necessity before the days of gas lamps or electric lights) while protecting visitors from rain and cold  
• Shops, cafes, and sometimes theaters and concert halls line both sides of the covered walkways
• In passages in wealthy neighborhoods, elaborate decor and ornamentation in neoclassical, art nouveau, and even art deco styles appeal to upper middle-class shoppers' desire for luxury; in passages in more working-class neighborhoods, the style may be plainer but the decor still gives the visitors the sense of being in a special place

To maximize their profits, developers typically added upper floors for apartments, often with interior windows overlooking the passages.  Today, if you look up, you may still see these dwellings (although some now function as offices).

The first passage, Passage Feydeau (which no longer exists), opened in 1791. Another 40 or so popped up during the next 100+ years.  However, builders erected most of them between 1820-1840.

Passage Verdeau   ★★★

Extending north from Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau also opened in 1846 and while it shares some similarities with its southern cousin, its arched glass roof is slightly fancier although the floor has been replaced.  Check out the neoclassical detailing of the woodwork and the original white clock hanging at one end.

Passage Verdeau's location close to the Drouot auction house runs through the middle of a city block dominated by small stamp, coin, book, and antique dealers, which are mostly what you'll find in the arcade's shops.

This passage is a favorite of stamp, book, and postcard collectors who browse the shops in hope of finding an overlooked treasure.  Sometimes that happens. 

Don't be put off by the half-unpacked boxes and messy appearances - they may predict the best hunting grounds.

Look through the bins of prints, maps, drawings, and old postcards, check out the books for first editions, examine the vintage posters and antique silverware, and you may find something you love. 

The art - mostly original prints, lithographs, drawings, etchings - can be especially rewarding to look through.  You may be surprised by some of the affordable prices.  Of course, not all of the art is original - you'll also see reproductions - so if that matters to you, be careful and caveat emptor.

Getting to the 9th's covered passages:  Access Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau through entrances directly across from each other on Rue de la Grand Batelière between Rue Drouot and Rue du Faubourg Montmartre.  Passage Jouffroy has a second entrance at 10 Boulevard Montmartre, and Passage Verdeau has one on Rue du Faubourg Montmartre. 

Discover Paris's best secret passages with a guide

Entrances:   4 Rue des Petits-Champs, 6 Rue Vivienne, and 1 Rue de la Banque, 2nd arrondissement; nearest metro: Grands Boulevards

Open:  Monday - Sunday, 9am - 9:30pm

Passage des Princes:  Permanently Closed?   ★

Passage des Princes has the distinction of being the last covered arcade authorized during the era of Baron Haussmann, who eliminated a number of others as he rebuilt the city. 

The passage boasts two spectacular glass cupolas, including one with stained glass, and two galleries (paths) covered by soaring steel and glass roofs supported by braces with curving Art Nouveau arabesques. 

The galleries form a right angle at the point where they meet.

A French banker named Jules Mirès built Passage des Princes (originally called Passage de Mirès, after the banker) on speculation, but he declared bankruptcy a year after it opened in 1860. 

After he was charged with forgery and fraud, convicted, and sent to prison in a place called Mozas, the passage became known as the "Passage de Mozas."

A few years later, the French insurance and investment company now known as AGF (Assurances Générales de France, formerly Compagnie d'Assurances Générales sur la Vie) bought the passage and reportedly still owns it.

During its early years, French poet Charles Baudelaire ("Les Fleurs du Mal") supposedly met here with other Symbolists, perhaps discussing "modernity," the term he coined for the fleeing beauty of life in the face of a rapidly industrializing Paris.

The owners mostly demolished the passage in 1985 in order to reconfigure the buildings around it, and then had two architects oversee its redesign and reconstruction. 

Changes included modifications to the passage's layout to a right angle rather than the obtuse angle of the original design, as well as the addition of a rather jarringly modern entrance on Boulevard des Italiens. 

However, the architects reused as much of the original materials as possible, including a gorgeous stained glass dome forming a rose windown from the 1930s, and reconstructed the coffered vault and columns of the Rue de Richelieu entrance to be as identical to the original as possible.  

The design of the double-sloping glass roof and the arabesques supporting it also conforms to the original.

The staircase near this entrance is a remnant from the Hôtel des Princes, the original building occupying this space when the passage was first created.

The restored passage reopened in 1995, more splendid than ever.  It measures 80 meters in length and 3 meters wide, with 10 spaces for shops.  Registration as a "historic monument" protects its façades.

Today, Passage des Princes ranks high among the city's best-maintained historical covered passages, although its critics argue that the 1985 reconstruction destroyed its "soul." 

In fairness, the reconstruction did no doubt eliminate the patina (or shabbiness, depending on your perspective) of age, but if you compare recent photos in this article with this 1861 woodcut of the then-new passage, you'll see many almost-identical details:

The French company JouéClub, an organization of independent toy specialists, leased the entire space in 2002 and used all the shops to showcase their inventory. 

Each beautifully arranged shop appealed to a different age group or interest:  stuffed animals, dolls, wooden toys, Legos, puppets, educational toys, scale models, puzzles, figurines, outdoor equipment, and games of all sorts, including video arcades in a separate area dedicated to teens.

However, fallout from the Covid pandemic hit JouéClub hard, as shoppers disappeared when tourism came to a halt and the need to work remotely emptied the nearby offices. 

Unable to come to an agreement with the landlord regarding the rent, the shops emptied out in March 2022. 

Locked iron gates now block the passage's Rue de Richelieu entrance.  The Boulevard des Italiens entrance has been eliminated. 

It is not clear if the passage is awaiting new tenants, undergoing renovations, or some other known or unknown fate.

Although workers could recently be seen hauling in building materials and taking them to some location beyond the line of view through the iron gates, a Google search lists the Passage des Princes as "permanently closed."

If true, that would be a stunning and shameful loss of a beautiful part of historical Paris.

Entrances:   7 Boulevard des Italiens, 97 Rue de Richelieu, 2nd arrondissement

Are Covered Arcades the Same as Covered Passages?

No.  Although covered arcades appeared in Paris at about the same time as covered passages, they differ architecturally in four significant ways: 

• Covered passages were developed as private roads cutting through the interior of a block of buildings and linking two main thoroughfares, while covered arcades were built along the sides of buildings and faced a road or, sometimes, a square or park
• Instead of being fully enclosed like covered passages, covered arcades feature an open side with columns or pilasters supporting the roof
• Covered arcades have solid roofs that block overhead light, whereas covered passages have glass roofs designed to let in as much light as possible
• Because covered arcades have open sides, they cannot be heated during cold Paris winters, whereas covered passages offer this comfort

You can still see covered arcades around Paris today.  Here are four of the best:

• Palais Royal Garden (1st arr)
• Along Rue de Rivoli across from the Louvre (1st arr)
• Place de Vosges, in the Marais (4th arr)
• Rue des Colonnes (2nd arr)

Covered Passages Along Paris's Charles V Wall

It's easy to forget that for many centuries, Paris was a fortified city, surrounded by a succession of seven stone walls.  Each ruler who built a new wall moved it further from Paris's center to encompass the growing city.

Although bits of a few walls remain intact (for example, part of Philip II's wall built in 1190 now forms the backdrop of a sports field used by local teens in the 4th arrondissement), they typically were torn down.  The stones were repurposed (sometimes for new walls), and the ground previously covered by the walls often became roads.

The following passages were built more or less along the eastern edges of Charles V's wall, erected between 1356 and 1383.  After Louis XIII destroyed the wall in the 1640s, the area evolved into a prosperous part of the city filled with high-quality architecture, theaters, restaurants, and nightlife - all good omens for developers who built their covered passages here in the late 1700s/early 1800s.

You'll find most of these passages along a north/south corridor formed by Rue Saint-Denis/Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis ("Faubourg" roughly translates to "outside the wall" - in other words, suburban) and Rue Saint-Martin/Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, although one is a few blocks near Place de République where one of the wall's gates (Porte du Temple) once stood.

During the 20th century, this part of Paris fell out of fashion as industry moved in.  The Sentier district, for example, became the center of textile and garment manufacturing and wholesale showrooms, which adversely impacted the covered passages.

But in the late 1990s, internet startups began moving into the neighborhood, highly acclaimed bistros popped up in the newly trendy area, and today, the opening of luxurious 4-star hotels (including one inside a passage) signals encroaching gentrification.

• Passage du Grand Cerf
• Passage du Bourg Abbé
• Passage du Caire
• Passage Ponceau
• Passage Brady
• Passages du Prado
• Passage Vendome
• Passage Ben Aïad

Passage du Grand-Cerf - Arts, Crafts, & More in this Gorgeous Glass-Roofed Arcade   ★★★

With its steel and glass roof soaring three floors high,  light-filled Passage du Grand Cerf provides the perfect setting for the arty shops and boutiques lining its long tile-floored corridor. 

A bank created the passage on speculation in 1825 as Parisians' love for shopping and strolling in protected walkways boomed, but construction techniques used in the roof's metal framing suggests it was added around 1835.

The passage's 38.6 foot (11.8 m) height not only makes it the highest of all the existing covered passages, but also lets enormous amounts of light stream in.

Come here for vintage treasures, art, crafts, and artisan-made jewelry and clothing.  

You'll also discover some boutiques filled with contents too eclectic to classify - but fascinating to explore.

Plan to spend longer here than you might reasonably expect.

Entrances:   145 Rue Saint-Martin, 10 Rue Dussoubs, 2nd arrondissement; nearest metro: Etienne-Marcel

Passage du Bourg l'Abbe - Faded Beauty  ★★

This once-elegant Passage du Bourg l'Abbe, built in 1828, retains much of its beauty and original details, despite the current mish-mash of shops, artisans, and a few boarded-up spaces inside marring its faded elegance.

Most of the passage's interior facade appears to be intact, and needs a bit of cleaning to restore it to splendor. 

The barometer at the passage's end is especially lovely, although it may no longer be working accurately to predict the weather. 

Although the passage originally formed an unbroken connection with Passage du Cerf on the other side of Rue Saint-Denis with the open-air Passage de l'Ancre, the eastern end of the passage was lopped off in 1854 to accommodate Baron Haussmann's creation of Boulevard Sebastopol and Rue du Palestro during his modernization of Paris.

Famed French architect Henri Blondel, best known for his vision for the Bourse de Commerce (now the Pinault Collection) near Les Halles, also designed the Second Empire-style Rue du Palestro entrance framed by two carytids representing Industry and Commerce.

Entrances:   120 Rue Saint-Denis and 3 Rue de Palestro, 2nd arrondissement; nearest metro: Etienne-Marcel

Open:  Monday - Saturday, 7:30am - 7:30pm

Passage du Caire:  The Oldest & Longest Covered Walkway in Paris   ★★

Despite being somewhat shabby and run-down, Passage du Caire still manages to exude an air of its former grandeur, especially when you look at it from the point where its three walkways converge as light streams in through the peaked glass roof. 

Passage du Caire opened in 1798 just as Napoleon's campaign in Egypt ignited the French capital with "Egyptmania" - a craze for all things Egyptian. 

Don't miss the three sculptural images of the Egyptian goddess Hathor peering down from the side of the building on Place du Caire where the passage's main entrance is located. 

Also, try to spot the six columns that resemble palm trees - no doubt another reference to Egypt.

In addition to being the oldest covered gallery in Paris, Passage du Caire is also the longest, narrowest, and the only passage currently occupied by wholesale textile, trim, and ready-to-wear businesses - a microcosm of the garment industry in Sentier. 

Initially, however, the passage's shops sold a much broader mix of items, deliberately invoking the souks and bazaars of Tunisia, Turkey, and Persia (modern-day Iran).

Right now, Passage du Caire is a fascinating place to just stroll through and observe all the activity related to the wholesale fashion industry. 

But for the past decade or so, the Sentier neighborhood has been experiencing a slow transformation as small tech businesses move in, retail boutiques begin to appear where wholesale once reigned supreme, and new 4-star hotels attract affluent guests. 

Frenchie's original bistro and gastro-empire along nearby Rue de Nil continues to inspire the opening of even more uber-popular bistros and eateries - check out (or stand in) the line at Boneshaker doughnuts on Rue d'Aboukir, less than a block from the passage's Place du Caire entrance, if you want to get first-hand experience (and a delicious treat). 

At Passage du Caire's Place du Caire entrance, the posh recently-opened 4-star boutique Hotel du Sentier features beautifully designed guest rooms, including some on upper floors overlooking the glass-roofed passage.  On the other side of the passage, 3-star Hotel Edgar and Achille (31 Rue d'Alexandrie) overlooks a quiet plaza and attracts UK guests due to its easy (with a rolling suitcase) 20-minute walk from Gare du Nord.

Perhaps sooner rather than later, gentrification may transform this passage - so if you're in the neighborhood, stop by periodically to see how it evolves. (Or check back here for updates.)

Entrances:   33 Rue d'Alexandre, 2, Place du Caire, 237-239 Rue Saint-Denis, 14, 34, and 44 Rue de Caire, 2nd arrondissement; nearest metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Open:  Monday - Friday, 7am - 6:30pm

Passage du Ponceau:  A Victim of Modernization  ★ ★

Unfortunately, time, circumstances, and periodic "updates" have erased much of the authenticity of Passage du Ponceau, which opened in 1826 across from Passage du Caire's Rue Saint-Denis entrance.

Baron Haussmann's city modernization efforts shortened the passage's eastern end when the construction of Boulevarde de Sébastopol replaced a smaller street.  Portions of the passage's original shop fronts were replaced at some point with modern plate glass, and perhaps worst of all, the glass roofs were removed in the 1960s in favor of sheets of acrylic.

However, you can still spot a few remnants of the passage's original splendor:  the charming original wooden façade at the former gardien's (caretaker's) quarters at #64, carved columns along the shop windows, a lovely curving wooden staircase leading to upper floors, and other details on the upper level. 

In particular, the wooden sections of the ceiling retain their original details and perhaps more than any other element, give you a hint of how appealing this passage must once have been, and possibly could be again some day .

The passage offers a mix of shops and small cafes, and provides a quiet refuge from the busy surrounding streets. 

If you're visiting Passage du Caire and have a few extra minutes, you might do a quick walk-through, especially if you're heading in the direction of Boulevard de Sebastopol.

Entrances:   212 Rue Saint-Denis, 119 Boulevard de Sébastopol, 2nd arrondissement

Passage du Prado   ★★

The Faubourg-Saint-Denis neighborhood in the 10th arrondissement where Passage du Prado is located is criss-crossed with open-air passages providing walkways between buildings. 

Passage du Prado, which was initially called Bois-de-Boulogne in commemoration of a popular dance hall that originally occupied the space, was constructed in 1785 as one of these uncovered passages.

Although its precise history after that is a bit vague, its rotunda located at the point where its two sections meet is believed to date back to the early 19th century.  The glass and metal roof was most likely added in the mid-1920s, when its owners renamed it Passage du Prado after the Madrid museum. 

The 1920s Art Decor motifs in the passage's well-preserved side panels, the dome of the rotunda, and the wood and plaster panels under the roof trusses set it apart from other passages.  In recent years, the upper panels under the glass roof have been painted with vivid colors evocative of India and the neighborhood's local Indian community.

Shops offer mostly utilitarian services - barbers, hairdressers, tailors, translators, travel agents - plus a small number of retail outlets and cafes, and even a small hotel under the cupola. 

Although a couple of decades ago most businesses here reflected connections with India, today you'll also see East African, West African, Pakistani,and Turkish influence added to the mix.

The passage has a calm, laid-back vibe, making it a tranquil oasis in the midst of this bustling neighborhood.

Entrances:   16 Boulevard Saint-Denis and 16 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis, 10th arrondissement; nearest metro: Chateau d'Eau

Nearby:   The Saint-Denis Gate (Porte Saint-Denis), which was built in 1672 by Louis XIV on the site of one of the original gates of the Charles V Wall.  It is one of Paris's four triumphal arches and commemorates some of Louis XIV's military victories

Passage Brady   ★★★

Unlike other covered passages which you can't really see until you pass through their entrance, Passage Brady can be easily spotted from the street, thanks to its peaked glass roofs sandwiched between two taller neighbors.

Walk inside through the Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis or 33 Boulevard de Strasbourg entrance, and you'll be met with splashes of vibrant colors and the tantalizing smells of fragrant spices, thanks to the passages' many Indian (plus a few Bangladeshi, Mauritian, Reunion, and Pakistani) restaurants, food shops, and spice vendors.

When a tradesman named Brady built the passage in 1828, it ran in a continuous length between Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis on the west and Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin with a rotunda more or less in the middle.  A gracefully vaulted glass roof covered the western end and rotunda.

But in 1854, Baron Haussmann created Boulevard de Strasbourg, which slashed through the middle, eliminating the rotunda and dividing the passage into two parts.  Fortunately, most of the glass remained intact.

Today, there's not much to see on the uncovered eastern end, which functions mainly as a paved short cut for pedestrians.

The part of the passage to explore is the covered western end, where light streams through the vaulted glass roofs, diners feast on inexpensive (ie, cheap) meals from the dozen or so restaurants, and shoppers scoop up silk saris, fragrant incense, fresh produce, and specialty Indian products.

The Indian-themed decor attracts most of the attention, but if you look closely, you can still see some of the Art Deco embellishments (similar to Passage du Prado, these were no doubt added during the 1920s or 1930s.

Pick out whichever restaurant appeals to you the most, and enjoy an unforgettable meal.

Entrances:   46 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis - 33 Boulevard de Strasbourg (covered section), and 22 Boulevard de Strasbourg - 43 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin (uncovered section), 10th arrondissement; nearest metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Open:  Daily from mid-morning to around 11:30pm (hours and days vary by restaurant)

Nearby: Bouillon Julien, the Saint-Denis Gate, one of Paris's four triumphal arches

Passage Vendome:  A Lovely Ghost Haunts Place de la République  ★

Walk though Passage Vendome, and you can almost feel the spirit of a more hopeful past urging you to imagine the space filled with charming boutiques, cute cafes, art galleries, and perhaps even a small concept store befitting this hip neighborhood.

Almost by the time Passage Vendôme opened in 1827 with 40 shops, it fell into decline for reasons now lost in the fog of history - a pity, because with its elegant architecture, arched glass roof, and seemingly ideal location at the edge of Place de la République, it could be charming and vibrant.

Thanks to Napoleon III and Baron Haussmann's modernization of Paris beginning in the 1850s during the Second Empire, the creation of Place de la République caused 4 meters to be chopped off of the passage, reducing its length to 57 m.  This accounts for the addition of a somewhat less-elegant section of peaked glass roof and newer entrance near the plaza.

A partial renovation in 2005 restored the passage's windows, cornices, paintings, and shop façades, and for a short time, it again thrived.  But now, most of the shops have closed, graffiti (not the cool or artistic type) defaces the walls, and the floor desperately needs repair. 

Rumors suggest that consideration of yet another restoration may be underway, thanks in part to petitions from surrounding residents.  This hidden gem deserves to again sparkle and prosper.

Entrances:   3 Place de la Republique, 16 Rue Beranger, 3rd arrondissement; nearest metro: Republique

Open:  Monday - Friday, 7:15am - 8pm, Saturday 8am - 8pm

Passage Ben-Aïad:  Closed - But Maybe Not Forever?  ★

Currently closed to the public. 

Passage Ben Aïad is the last remaining portion of the much larger and quite elaborate Passage du Saumon, which was constructed in 1826 but mostly demolished at the end of the 19th century.  It is named after a wealthy Tunisian general who bought it in 1853.

The passage, which is 295 feet (90 m) long, links Rue Bachaumont and Rue Leopold-Bellan.  Although its owner uses locked iron gates to block public access, you can peer through the metal bars if you happen to be walking by - worth the effort, because of the still-lovely glass canopy roof and what appears to be attractive ornamentation along the walls.

What makes this passage potentially special is its location in a popular foodie hot-spot less than a five-minute walk from Les Halles. Half a block to the east is the fabulous Rue Montorgueil food street; half a block to the west is Rue Montmartre, home to lovely boutiques including A. Simon, one of Paris's top kitchen supply stores.  The luxurious 4-star Hotel Bachaumont is less than 200 feet from the passage, and other specialty shops dot the rest of the street.

With such fashionable shopper-friendly surroundings, it's surprising that this passage remains closed.  So much potential lies behind those locked gates.

Entrances:  9-11 Rue Leopold-Bellan, 8 Rue Bachaumont, 2nd arrondissement; nearest metro: Sentier

Covered Passages near Place de Madeleine

• Galerie de la Madeleine
• Passage du Havre
• Passage Puteaux

Galerie de la Madeleine   ★★★

Located across from the Neoclassical Madeleine Church in Paris's prestigious Place de la Madeleine, Galerie de la Madeleine opened in 1845.  

The shopping arcade's developer, the Passage Jouffroy Company (which also developed Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau), spared no expense in the design and decor to ensure its harmony with its affluent neighbors around the plaza. 

If you're in front of the entrance, be sure to look up and notice the elaborate carytids flanking each side of the arch. 

(In case you're wondering, a carytid is a sculpted female figure, draped more or less with Greek-style clothing, that takes the place of a column to provide architectural support.  The male equivalent is called an atlas.   Look around as you stroll through Paris and you'll see far more caryatids than atlases.)

Although many of the caryatids propping up Parisian's 19th century buildings were cast from forms, those at Galerie de la Madeleine were individually hand-carved in keeping with the rest of the building's elaborate sculptural elements and the neighborhood's luxury vibe.

Inside, the passage retains its mid-19th century elegance and is impeccably maintained.

As you wander through, you'll find a mix of high-end clothing boutiques, galleries, antique shops, and places to eat and drink. 

Although a couple of the restaurants get pricey at night, you can enjoy affordable bakery-style lunches at competitive prices.  

Or if you want more choices, continue out the back door to Rue Boissy d'Anglas, which is lined with affordable sidewalk cafes and bistros catering to the many office workers (and tourists) in this area.

Entrances:   9 Place de la Madeleine, 30 Rue Boissy d'Anglas, 8th arrondissement; nearest metro: Madeleine

Open:  Monday - Saturday, 8am - 11pm; closed on Sunday and public holidays

Passage Puteaux: An Insiders' Secret  ★ ★

A contractor named Louis Puteaux financed the construction of Passage Puteaux based on speculation that Gare Saint-Lazare (then called Gare de l'Ouest) would be built close b and provide a steady stream of customers. 

The passage opened in 1839.  At 29 m long, it is the shortest passage in Paris.  A glass roof covers only half of it while the other half has a regular ceiling.  Old-fashioned lanterns hanging from Grecian-style pilasters with elaborately carved tops provide a charming period vibe.

Sadly, for M. Puteaux and his bank account, the rail station opened a few years later farther north.  The crowds of patrons he'd envisioned for his shopping mall never materialized and his ill-fated passage languished, mostly empty and unloved.

Today, restaurants including the popular La Boutique des Vins wine shop, bars, and a few shops line the well-preserved passage, with chairs and tables along both sides of the central hall.  It's a local favorite, and a sort of "insider's secret" in this bustling part of the city close to the Palais Garnier opera house, Printemps Haussmann department store, and Place de la Madeleine.

The passage is also surrounded by a number of hotels, including the 5-star Hyatt Paris Madeleine - so if you happen to stay there, stop by Passage Puteaux and savor a glass of wine under the beautiful glass canopy roof.

Entrances:   33 Rue de l'Arcade, 28 Rue Pasquier, 8th arrondissement; nearest metro: Saint-Augustin

Open:  Monday - Friday, 7am - midnight

Passage du Havre   ★★

Architectural historians often cite the covered passages as precursors to today's modern shopping malls, but most new malls are not built on the footprint of the historical properties. Passage du Havre is the exception.

From the street, Passage du Havre looks as though it might be one of Paris's historical 18th and 19th century covered passages. But it is not. 

Instead, you'll find a new-ish modern shopping mall constructed in the space once occupied by the original Passage du Havre  which opened here in 1845, a stone's throw away from the new Gare Saint-Lazare train station.

During the course of 150 years, Passage du Havre's tenants included a cane and umbrella merchant, a printer, a butcher, a funeral wreath shop, and finally, stores selling model trains. 

But by the end of the 20th century, the passage had become delapidated, and its owners demolished it in 1995.

The architect of its replacement, Michel Macary, made a deliberate decision to not replicate or even echo the layout, construction materials, or ambiance of the original covered passage. 

Instead, Macary designed a modern commercial shopping center, in sharp contrast to the approach taken in the reconstruction of Passage des Princes and Galerie Colbert which replicated the original structures and even reused original materials to the degree possible.

So that's what you see today: a late-20th century mall.  Some elements such as the glass roof and cupola do echo features popularized by the historical covered passages but otherwise, the property's architectural past has been erased. 

Is Passage du Havre Still Worth Visiting?

That depends. 

If you want to see a historical Parisian covered passage, then no.  Don't bother.

But if you want to see a thoughtfully designed modern shopping mall with modern of sky-lit ceilings and lovely glass domes, then yes.  

With Fnac an an anchor and around 40 other stores, Passage du Havre provides a convenient place to shop for items you may not find at nearby Printemps Haussmann or Galeries Lafayette (which have their own stunningly beautiful stained glass domes).

While you're at Passage du Havre, take a moment to admire the truly spectacular Murano chandelier with 120 hand-blown glass drops hanging from the top of the glass-roofed rotunda.

Entrances:   69 Rue de Caumartin, 109 Rue Saint-Lazare, Rue de Havre, 9th arrondissement; nearest metro: Havre-Caumartin

Open:  Monday - Wednesday and Saturday, 9:30am - 8pm; Thursday and Friday, 9:30am - 8:30pm, Sunday 11am - 7pm

Why Did Paris's Covered Passages Lose their Popularity? 

During the second half of the 19th century, Parisians' love affair with the covered passages faded rather rapidly after a new type of shopping venue - large department stores such as Bon Marché, BHV Marais, Printemps, La Samaritaine, and Galeries Lafayette - captured their enthusiasm. 

At the same time, Baron Haussmann launched a massive redesign of Paris by creating broad avenues and boulevards, paved sidewalks, and a modern sewer system, which gave Parisians many more choices of places to walk.

By the advent of the Belle Époque period toward the end of the century, covered passages no longer served their original purpose.   Once chic or modern, they had become passé.

A few passages were demolished before the mid-1800s, several fell prey to Haussmann's redesign of Paris, and still others were dismantled throughout the 20th century, including as recently as 1995 (or 2022, if Passage des Princes falls to the wrecking ball). 

Passages on Avenue des Champs-Elysées

Les arcades des champs-elysées (arcades du lido) - a 20th century covered passage revival  ★★.

You might accurately say that Les Arcades des Champs-Élysées is the final 19th century-style passage couvert parisienne to be built in the city (aside from reconstructions, such as Galerie Colbert and, to some degree, Passage du Havre). 

But surprisingly, this passage with its mix of Art Deco and Neoclassical decor was actually constructed and opened to much fanfare and 3,000 guests in 1926 by Paris gemstone importer Leonard Rosenthal, locally called "la roi de la perle fine" - the king of fine pearls.

Although Avenue des Champs-Élysées had been considered one of the most elegant promenades of Fin du Siècle Paris during the late 19th century, within 20 years it transitioned from a bucolic mostly-residential district to a hot spot of commercial development. 

Hoping to profit from this building boom, Rosenthal bought a long, narrow hotel which extended all the way to the street behind it - perfect, he realized, for a large and super-luxurious covered passage, once he demolished the existing structure.

Arcades du Lido, as the new 2-floored covered passage was first called, featured a basement-level spa and beauty salon called "Le Lido," and a heated swimming pool known as the "Paris Beach."  

On the ground floor and upper level, the passage's sumptuous decor included a gorgeous glass canopy roof and stained glass, soaring granite columns, marble floors, fancy wrought iron, and beautiful light fixtures and lanterns created by the famed jewelry designer and glass artist, René Lalique.  At the center of Les Arcades stood a large Art Deco-style fountain, also by Lalique. 

Visit today, and you'll still see most of those beautiful features.  The passage is now called Les Arcades des Champs-Elysees.

Although the pool no longer exists and Le Lido became an entertainment venue before morphing into the famous cabaret, now located a couple of blocks away, the rest of the original passage (now the central aisle) remains remarkably unchanged, including all the Art Deco and Neoclassical motifs.

Just be aware that once you leave the original area, the passage is indistinguishable from any modern suburban mall.

Entrances:   76-78 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 9 Rue de Ponthieu, 8th arrondissement; nearest metro: George V

Open:  Monday - Sunday, 8:30am - 9pm

Other Covered Passages along Champs-Elysees

Buoyed by the success of Les Arcades des Champs-Elysees, Rosenthal and other developers felt sure that a new period of popularity for covered passages had begun. 

During the late 1920s-1930s, they developed a number of passages lined with shops along the famous Avenue, particularly on the north side. 

But whereas Les Arcades, like the classic 19th century passages, was constructed between buildings to form a private lane between streets, these other new 20th century passages tended to be courtyards or atriums carved from the middle of existing buildings.

Some did not flourish, while others continue to thrive today, but they are not really covered passages in the historical 18th-19th century mold.

Should you visit them today?  Absolutely, if your focus is on shopping.  You'll find a terrific mix of French, European, and International brands.  Look for their entrances along the north sid of Champs-Elysees.

But if you want to explore the charming covered passages of yester-year, visit the genuinely historical covered passages included in this article, especially those with three stars.

A Left Bank Covered Passage in Paris's 6th District

Cour du commerce saint-andré: a covered passage with medieval roots -  ★★★.

Cour du Commerce Saint-André may not be the fanciest of the covered passages, and only part of it is covered with a glass roof added a hundred years or more after its development.

However, Cour du Commerce is most likely the oldest, with its roots in Medieval times and with shops lining the narrow cobblestone walkway by the early 1700s - even earlier, if you count back to 1686, the year that its oldest bistro, Le Precope, opened its doors to hungry Parisians bedazzled by the crystal chandeliers, mahogany and crimson velvet decor, luxurious ambiance, and hearty food and drink designed to attract the actors, patrons, and playwrights associated with the Comédie Française Theater, then located across the road.

Part of the lane became a covered passage in 1823 when the owners installed a glass roof over the section near Rue Saint-André-des-Arts, no doubt hoping to profit from the covered passage craze sweeping the city during that period.

Today, Cour de Commerce Saint-André contains a wonderful selection of unique shops and excellent restaurants and cafes including Le Procope, where an appealing menu with traditional and contemporary dishes still attracts crowds after 400+ years. 

But this passage also embodies layers and layers of history - everything from remains of a 12th century wall to bloody connections with the French Revolution.

Find out more about Cour de Commerce Saint-André, its dark history, and today's boutiques and bistros

Entrances:  59 Rue Saint-André-des-Arts, 21 Rue de l’Ancienne-Comédie, 130 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 6th arrondissement; nearest metro: Odéon

Open:  The iron gates at each end of the glass-covered section are closed and locked at night during non-business hours, which vary by day and season.  The large, elaborate gates at the entrances on Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue de l’Ancienne-Comédie usually remain open quite late and reopen early, but we have occasionally seen them closed (and locked) during early morning hours.

Want to discover more hidden gems in Paris?  Consider these tours:

• Secret Gardens Walking Tour - Explore hidden gardens, secret squares, and grand historical spaces in out-of-the-way Paris neighborhoods
• Authentic French Experience with a Local - Experience popular corners of Paris from an insider's perspective as your guide drives you around the capital and shows you everything from top cultural sites to traditional markets.

R.I.P. (Rest in Peace): List of the Demolished Covered Passages of Paris

Here are the names, arrondissement, opening dates, and demolition dates of the covered passages in Paris that no longer exist:

• Passage Feydeau, 2nd arr, 1791-1829
• Galerie Saint-Honoré, 1st arr, 1810-1825
• Passage Delorme, 1st arr, 1808-1896
• Passage Montesquieu, 1st arr, 1812-about 1860
• Passage de la Ville-l'Evèque, 8th arr, 1815-uncertain
• Passage de l'Opera, 9th arr, 1823-1925
• Passage de Pont-Neuf, 6th arr, 1823-1912
• Passage du Trocadero, 1st arr, 1824-1826
• Passage Laffitte, 9th arr, 1824-uncertain
• Bazar Boufflers, 2nd arr, 1825-March,1829 (destroyed by fire); rebuilt as quickly as possible and reopened as Galerie de Fer, December, 1829-1878
• Passage Saint-Denis, 2nd arr, 1826-1854
• Passage du Saumon, 2nd arr, 1828-1899 (partially; the part now called Passage Ben-Aïad still exists, although it is closed to the public)
• Galerie de l'Opera-Comique, 2nd arr, 1827-1890
• Passage Saucède, 2nd arr, 1827-1854
• Galerie Foy, 9th arr, 1829-uncertain
• Galerie d'Orleans, 1st arr, 1829-1935
• Galerie de Cherbourg, 8th arr, 1839-1933
• Galerie de Bergère, 9th arr, 1842-1927
• Passage Richer, 9th arr, 1842-closed in 1927
• Passage du Havre, 8th arr, 1845-1995 (demolished, with a modern shopping mall built in the same space in 1997)

More Fun Things to Do & See in Paris

More articles about things to do & see in paris.

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• Skip the Line Tickets - Why waste time standing in long lines when you don't have to?

Selected Resources about Covered Passages Used in this Article

The following resources were invaluable for researching the historical and architectural information about covered passages in Paris, including those which no longer exist:  

Delorme, Jean-Claude and Anne-Marie Dubois.  Passages Couverts Parisiens.  Programme/Companie Parisienne du Livre, 2014.  (in French)

Lambert, Guy.  The Covered Passages of Paris.  Editions du Patrimoine, Centre des Monuments Nationaux, 2003.  (in English)

Lemoine, Bertrand.  Les Passages Couverts en France.  Délégation à l'Action Artistique de la Ville de Paris, 1990.  (in French)

Passages & Galeries.  http://passagesetgaleries.fr/  (in French; website of the Paris-based association tasked with protecting and helping to rehabilitate and restore Paris's historical covered passages)

Less useful, but somewhat interesting:

Benjamin, Walter.  The Arcades Project.  Trans. Howard Eiland and Kevin McLaughlin.  Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 2003.  (in English; translated from German)

For cultural, social, and urban architectural history of the 19th century, and in particular, Baron Haussmann's redesign of Paris:

Kelley, Russell.  The Making of Paris.  Rowman & Littlefield, Lanham, Maryland, 2021.

McAuliffe, Mary.  Paris, City of Dreams.  Rowman & Littlefield, Lanham, Maryland, 2020.

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5x Hidden covered passages in Paris & secret walking tour

The best hidden covered passages in Paris. Looking for a piece of authentic Paris? Then be sure to visit the beautiful covered arcades in Paris. There are still about 20 secret shopping arcades left, almost all from the 19th century. With nice bookstores , restaurants and even theaters. Most of the hidden covered shopping arcades in Paris are almost all located around the Grands Boulevards, so they are easy to visit by walking.

These charming passages in Paris are completely free to visit and one of our favorite secret spots in Paris. You can also opt for a guided walking tour with a nice route through the passages of Paris. Ideal for a warm day or of course on a rainy autumn day in Paris . Highly recommended to visit the passages in Paris. We think these are the 5 best hidden covered passages in Paris.

• Fun to do:   Covered Passages Walking Tour in Paris (1,5h) →

1. Hidden passages in Paris: beautiful covered shopping arcades

The hidden shopping arcades in Paris were there to protect the wealthy population from the bad weather and the bustle of the city. In the 19th century, thanks to the great urban transformation plan of Baron Haussmann, Paris counted more than 70 passages. Today, Paris has only 21 secret shopping arcades open to the public.

2. The 5 best covered passages in Paris: secrets to discover

• Gallerie Vivienne (2nd) Galerie Vivienne was founded in 1823 and is one of the oldest shopping arcades in Paris. And according to many also the most beautiful passage in Paris. A beautiful example of 19th century architecture, it features beautiful mosaic floors, stained glass windows and amazing ceiling paintings. This famous passage with unique shops, antique dealers, bookshops, fashion stores and jewelers is worth a visit. Especially during the Christmas period, the passage is very nicely decorated.

• Passage des Panoramas (2nd) Passage des Panoramas opened in 1799 as one of the first covered passages in Paris. This passage is a popular destination for art and antiques enthusiasts, with several art galleries displaying works by well-known artists. There are also many shops with stamps and old postcards. A unique combination of historic and modern, while retaining the original charm of the 19th century.

• Passage Jouffroy (9th) Passage Jouffroy is the very first passage in Paris, made entirely of metal and glass. It was opened in 1845 and you will find many nice shops such as antique dealers, bookshops, fashion stores and jewelers. One of the most famous attractions in the passage is the Musée Grévin. A very popular museum with 450 wax figures of French and internationally famous people such as Brad Pitt, George Clooney, Elton John, Louis de Funès and Charles Aznavour.

• Galerie Vero-Dodat (1st) Galerie Vero-Dodat is a nice place to walk and enjoy the beautiful architecture. The passage was built in 1826 and is a gallery with many chic boutiques with decoration, furniture, art, shoes, etc… Fashionistas can go to Christian Louboutin (boutique with studio), the luxury shoe store at the entrance of the passage.

• Passage Verdeau (9th) A covered shopping arcade in Paris dating from 1847 and home to many antique dealers, book and art sellers. Be sure to visit the store La Belle Epoque, a nice boutique that focuses on fashion and accessories from the Belle Époque period. You will find clothing, jewelery and accessories specially made during this period.

3. Book a guided walking tour through the passages of Paris

Explore the hidden passages of Paris on this guided walking tour. With a guide you will visit Galerie Vivienne, Passage Choiseul, Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau. On this fascinating walking tour, discover the history of the covered passages in Paris as well as the best places to shop and eat.

Sheltered from the noise of the Parisian boulevards, the covered passages in Paris are ideal for strolling, having a drink or browsing the many quaint shops. Parisian charm from the 19th century. Nice to visit when it rains in Paris or during autumn in Paris .

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Paris’s covered passages.

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• Covered Passages of Paris
• Worldly salons during the Restoration, shortcuts fallen to decrepitude under Baron Haussmann, romantic hideaways and mercantile corridors…strange paradoxes indeed.
• Mosaic floors, painted ceilings, and neoclassical sculptures, glass domes: a sumptuous décor, precursor to Europe’s covered passageways.
• Places full of magic, tranquility and effervescence of inspiration to writers and photographers.
• A place for every kind of temptation: unusual boutiques, ornate bistros, antiquarians, and bookshops.

2-hour classic tour

Venture inside these galleries originally built to link two adjacent neighborhoods, and then converted into luxurious shopping malls, beautifully and naturally lit by the magnificent glass roofs protecting them. Get a feel for 19th-century Paris by plunging into this artistic and elegant world of luxury and fantasy. While visiting the courtyard of the Palais Royal, and the Véro-Dodat, Vivienne, and Colbert galleries, your guide will reveal the secrets tucked into these places, as well as the social mores of the period…

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Guided and Private Tour of the Covered Passages of Paris

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❤ YOU WILL ENJOY...

We offer you a guided tour in Paris to discover the secrets of the covered passages . Crossing houses with nonchalance, discreetly slipping from one street to another, the passage is a Parisian invention. The Restoration, the July monarchy, real estate speculation helped, made covered passages a fashion. We walk there, we show ourselves, we make appointments. The urbanization of the capital under Napoleon III, land pressure, the construction of spectacular buildings for the time and modernization shifted the centers of interest of Paris and outdated the passages. It will take until the 80s for their very special charm to be rediscovered.

Our guides offer you a disorienting tour through the chic passages and the exotic passages animated in the heart of the capital and they will share their knowledge with you to offer you a fun, lively and informative visit.

Some passages and galleries that you will discover during your guided tour of the covered passages.

• Passage Choiseul
• Galerie Colbert
• Galerie Vivienne
• Palais Royal
• Galerie Verot Dodat
• And many more...

GENERAL INFORMATIONS

• Guided tour in small group of maximum 12 people
• Departures : from our agency
• duration : 2h00
• Commentary in French, English or Spanish

Meeting Point

France Tourisme Agency - 6, rue de l'amiral de Coligny - 75001 Paris - Access map

Our offers can be customized for a group from 8 people and more - For more informations : Contact our Groups Department

Our other offers in the same theme:

➤ Guided and Private Tour of Montmartre    ➤ Guided and Private Tour of Historic Paris    ➤ Guided and Private Tour of the Marais    ➤ Private Gastronomic Tour in the heart of Paris    ➤ Exclusive package: 3D visit of Notre Dame de Paris + Cruise on the Seine    ➤ Exclusive combination: 3D visit of Notre Dame de Paris + 2H Paris City Tour

FRANCE TOURISME also suggests

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Open 7 days a week, from 9am to 7pm, our agency welcomes you during your stay in Paris. Whether for information or a last minute booking, our travel experts are at your disposal to advise you and offer you the best activities and visits to enjoy during your trip!

• Louvre agency (Departures)
• 6 rue Amiral de Coligny, 75001 Paris
• +33 (0)1 53 10 35 35

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The 15 Most Beautiful Covered Passages in Paris (with a Map)

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1. Galerie Vivienne: the fancy one!

2. Passage Colbert: the rival to Galerie Vivienne

Image sourced from Wikimedia Commons

Rotunda of the Galerie Colbert (Colbert Galleria), Paris, 2nd arrondissement

3. Passage des Panoramas: the philatelists’ favorite passage

4. Passage Jouffroy: the “modern” one

5. Passage Brady: the Little India of Paris

6. Passage Choiseul: the longest one

7. Galerie Véro-Dodat: the hidden gem of the neighborhood

8. Passage du Grand Cerf: with the wrought-iron structure

ThomasGarel , CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

9. Passage des Princes: the paradise for Children

Moonik , CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

10. Passage Molière: the peaceful one

Ralf.treinen , CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

11. Passage du Caire: the oldest one

Poulpy , CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

12. Passage Verdeau: the continuation of Les Panoramas and Jouffroy

Vinceloo , CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

13. Passage de l’Ancre: the unusual one

14. Passage du Bourg-l’Abbé: the unique one

MOSSOT , CC BY 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

15. Passage Ponceau: the narrow one

Mbzt , CC BY 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

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Edith is a student in political and social sciences, but she also loves history and discovering stories about the old Paris. After growing up in the Parisian suburbs, she came back to the capital to study and fell in love with her city! She has two passions in life: theatre and food. Whenever she has free time, you’ll find her buying pastries and trying new specialties from all around the world!

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Paris Covered Passages Walking Tour (With Pass)

Secret treasures in the hidden streets and shops of paris.

• When 11 AM Monday and Thursday (seasonal schedule)
• Duration 90 minutes
• Meeting Point In front of the Basilica of Notre-Dame des Victoires

Book with your pass

Choose a time that works for you., arrive at least 15 minutes early., bring a valid pass..

Reserve Now

Book for free with your All-Inclusive Pass or Explorer Pass

• To book, click the Reserve Now button and enter your credit card details.
• Your tour is free as long as you scan a valid pass before your tour.
• This tour is given in English.

Full Schedule

Bargain hunting in the covered passages

Ancêtre des centres commerciaux d’aujourd’hui, le charme unique des passages couverts parisiens vous transportera immédiatement dans le 19 e siècle. Nous avons choisi de recenser ici des passages géographiquement proches (9 e et 2 e arrondissements) pour que vous puissiez les découvrir à pieds au cours d’une agréable promenade.

Qu’est ce qu’un passage ? 

C’est une v oie privée ouverte aux publics, un raccourci entre plusieurs voies. Espace piétonnier, le passage peut abriter à la fois du commerce et de l’habitat. Seuls la décoration abondante et le luxe de ses boutiques différencient une galerie d’un passage .

• Début de la balade au 31 bis rue du Faubourg Montmartre, dans le 9 e arrondissement (Ligne 7 Le Peletier ou 9/8 Richelieu Drouot).  Le Passage VERDEAU s’offre à vous.

Ne reliant pas deux boulevards, il n’a jamais été financièrement prospère. Sous une charpente entièrement métallique, cette galerie datant de 1847 regorge de librairies, antiquaires et vendeurs d’art. Véritable arrière-cour de l’Hôtel des ventes Drouot , il attire bon nombre de collectionneurs. Sa construction est due à Monsieur Verdeau, qui “inventa” la location de linge pour les hôtels, restaurants ou autres réceptions.

• En sortant, vous apercevez un nouveau passage couvert devant vous. Le passage JOUFFROY.

Ce passage date de 1846. Il fut le premier a être doté d’une charpente métallique, une révolution architecturale pour l’époque, et le premier également à avoir un chauffage au sol. très spacieux, il abrite comme le passage Verdeau un grand nombre de magasins de collectionneurs. Entièrement rénové en 1987, il est d’une élégance absolue.

• Ce n’est pas fini… Au niveau des grands boulevards, rejoignez le passage des Panoramas  juste devant vous, et poursuivez votre promenade dans le 19 e siècle.

Plus vieux passage couvert de Paris (1799), la décoration est faite de vieilles enseignes et de luminaires d’époque qui en fait l’un des plus jolis de la capitale. Il est connu pour être l’un des principaux lieux de philatélie de la ville, bien que les restaurants et fast-food prennent depuis quelques années de plus en plus de place… Son propriétaire, l’Américain William Thayer, fit construire à l’entrée principale du Boulevard Montmartre deux grandes tours dans lesquelles étaient exposées des dessins panoramiques. D’où son nom de passage des Panoramas . En 1816, on y expérimenta pour la première fois l’éclairage au gaz.   Sortez de la galerie des Panoramas soit par la rue Vivienne, soit par la rue Saint-Marc. Rejoignez à pieds la galerie Vivienne, au n° 6 de la rue du même nom.

• La Galerie Vivienne est sans aucun doute le passage le plus luxueux de Paris.

En 1970, Kenzo y a organisé de manière assez confidentielle un défilé de mode. Pour profiter de son unique atmosphère, prenez un thé à l’une des « terrasses » et contemplez les détails de décoration de ce passage mis en valeur par la mosaïque au sol. Côté magasins, vous y trouverez du prêt-à-porter haut de gamme, de la décoration d’intérieur ainsi que quelques librairies de collectionneurs. Au n°13, un imposant escalier mène à l’ancienne demeure de Vidocq , célèbre bagnard français devenu chef de la Police. Arrivé au niveau de la rue des PetitsChamps, faîtes un tour par la Galerie Colbert (6, rue des Petits-Champs). Entièrement rénovée, elle mérite un coup d’oeil bien qu’il n’y ait plus aucun commerce à l’intérieur aujourd’hui.

• Rue des petits champs, tournez à droite puis marchez environ 300m pour rejoindre le Passage CHOISEUL (attention, passage en travaux jusqu’à octobre – fermé le dimanche).

Long de 190m, ce passage est l’un des plus longs de Paris. C’est aujourd’hui un passage devenu plus ordinaire que ceux précédemment visités, quoique tout de même très joli. C’est en tout cas ici que vous trouverez le plus de magasins et restaurants en adéquation avec votre budget… Louis Ferdinand Céline vécut dans le passage Choiseul entre 1899 et 1907.     Si vous souhaitez poursuivre votre découverte de Paris, vous pouvez vous rendre Place des Victoires , l’une des 5 places royales de Paris . Vous pouvez aussi  visiter l’Opéra Garnier , superbe monument à quelques centaines de mètres du passage Choiseul.

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Paris Covered Passages Walking Tour

• Experienced, local guide
• Paris shuttle for convenient transportation, included with your tour.
• Place des Petits Pères, Pl. des Petits Pères, 75002 Paris, France Please meet us in front of the big church at the following address: Place des Petits-Pères, 75002 Paris. Your guide will be holding an orange sign with “ExperienceFirst” written on it. For easier navigation, you can paste this address into Google Maps: Pl. des Petits-Pères, 75002 Paris.
• 6 Rue de la Grange Batelière, 75009 Paris, France This tour ends at Passage Verdeau, 6 Rue de la Grange-Batelière.
• Wheelchair accessible
• Stroller accessible
• Service animals allowed
• Near public transportation
• Infant seats available
• Transportation is wheelchair accessible
• Surfaces are wheelchair accessible
• Confirmation will be received at time of booking
• Most travelers can participate
• Take our Paris shuttle for convenient transportation, included with your tour. Copy and paste this link in your web browser: https://www.exp1.com/paris-tours/paris-shuttle/
• This experience requires a minimum number of travelers. If it’s canceled because the minimum isn’t met, you’ll be offered a different date/experience or a full refund
• This tour/activity will have a maximum of 15 travelers
• For a full refund, cancel at least 24 hours in advance of the start date of the experience.
• Passage des Panoramas
• Passage Jouffroy
• Galerie Vivienne
• Passage Verdeau
• Passage Choiseul

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• You'll start at Place des Petits Pères Pl. des Petits Pères, 75002 Paris, France Please meet us in front of the big church at the following address: Place des Petits-Pères, 75002 Paris. Your guide will be holding an orange sign with “ExperienceFirst” written on it. For easier navigation, you can paste this address into Google Maps: Pl. des Petits-Pères, 75002 Paris. See address & details
• 1 Galerie Vivienne Stop: 18 minutes See details
• 2 Passage Choiseul Stop: 18 minutes See details
• 3 Passage des Panoramas Stop: 18 minutes See details
• 4 Passage Jouffroy Stop: 18 minutes See details
• 5 Passage Verdeau Stop: 18 minutes See details
• You'll end at 6 Rue de la Grange Batelière 6 Rue de la Grange Batelière, 75009 Paris, France This tour ends at Passage Verdeau, 6 Rue de la Grange-Batelière. See address & details

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• 907tomu 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Very pleasnat and informative! We were in a small group of maybe 8 people on Tuesday 7 May. Our guide, Sania, was well-informed and personable and spoke English well. Since we could not see the inside at this time, she walked us around the cathedral and explained everything one could see from the outside—the flying buttresses, the front door arches, the stained glass windows, as well as the 200 year old trees being used for lumber and the artisanal reconstruction techniques in use. She also provided some "extracurricular" commentary on Paris itself, e.g. how to quickly determine the arrondissement you are in, and how to identify a well-made croissant! Nice! All in all, it was a very enjoyable hour. We look forward to touring again with Sania when the cathedral reopens in 2025. Read more Written May 20, 2024

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Paris Covered Passages Walking Tour provided by ExperienceFirst Paris

A Complete Guide to the Best of the Secret Covered Passages of Paris

By: Author Sophie Nadeau

Posted on Last updated: 3rd May 2024

Categories Obscure Paris , Paris

Last Updated on 3rd May 2024 by Sophie Nadeau

Have you seen Notre Dame? Been up the Tour Eiffel? Wandered around Montmartre and you’re wondering what’s next? Well, the Parisian arcades are time-warp galleries of vintage shops and brasseries dotted across the French capital. Here’s a guide to the best of the secret covered passages of Paris !

The Paris gallery, otherwise known as the ‘Passages Couverts Parisiens’ in French has since become such a staple of Parisian life that many pass by the few that remain on a daily basis, without so much as blinking an eye.

However, whether you’re in search for off-the-beaten-path Paris, seeking some shelter from the rain, or simply want an alternative place to shop, be sure to check out the hidden arcades of Paris…

A history of the Covered Passages of Paris

#1 passage du grand cerf, 2nd arrondissement, #2 galerie vivienne, 2nd arrondissement, #3 passage des panoramas, 2nd arrondissement, #4 passage jouffroy, 9th arrondissement, #5 passage choiseul, 2nd arrondissement, #6 galerie vero-dodat, 1st arrondissement, #7 passage brady, 10th arrondissement, #8 passage verdeau, 9th arrondissement, #9 passage du caire, 2nd arrondissement, #10 galerie colbert, 2nd arrondissement, #11 galerie de la madeleine, 8th arrondissement, #12 passage des princes, 2nd arrondissement, #13 passage vendôme, 3rd arrondissement, #14 passage puteaux, 8th arrondissement, #15 passage du bourg l’abbé, 2nd arrondissement, #16 passage du prado, 10th arrondissement, #17 passage du ponceau, 2nd arrondissment, #18 galerie de montpensier & la galerie des proues, 1st arrondissement, #19 passage sainte-anne, 2nd arrondissement, #20 passage ben-aïad, 2nd arrondissement, #21 passage moliere, 3rd arrondissement, #22 passage de l’ancre, 3rd arrondissement, #23 passage du havre, 9th arrondissement, #24 cour du commerce saint-andré, 6th arrondissement, #25 passage de beaujolais, #26 passage des deux-pavillons, passage de l’opera, tips for visiting the passages couverts in paris, other covered passages in europe, watch the covered passages of paris video, enjoyed reading about the best of covered passages of paris pin it now, read it again later:.

Largely dating back to the 18th and 19th-centuries, the covered passages of Paris were constructed so as to serve as shopping arcades filled with bookstores, independent boutiques, and eateries.

Unfortunately, the mass overhaul of the retail industry by department stores saw the demolishment of many of the passages and today only a handful survive. Between Grand Boulevards and wide terraced streets, the charm of the Parisian passages is not lost on the casual passerby, never mind the curious explorer.

Largely located in the 2nd, 9th, and 10th arrondissements, by 1850 there were some 150 passages, all stained glass windows, steel frames, and ornate decor. A throwback to the Belle Epoque, there is perhaps no better rainy day activity in the city than traipsing through these whimsical walkways…

Covered passages of Paris

Named for the wooden cerf (stag’s head) hanging in the entryway to a pub at the end of the walkway, there’s no denying that Passage du Grand Cerf is one of the capital’s more luxurious passages. Built on the site of the former Hôtellerie du Grand Cerf, no one knows quite when this gallery was opened to the public.

The sumptuous Galerie Vivienne is rather hard to miss… Thanks to its glittering lights, mosaic flooring, and a handful of upscale shops, this must-see Parisian attraction is easily the most famous of the 2nd arrondissement passages and has famously been in competition with the nearby Galerie Colbert.

Built in 1823 at the behest of the President of the Chamber of Notaries, the passage was originally named Marchoux. Swiftly changed to ‘Vivienne,’ the covered walkway soon attracted a whole host of tailors, confectioners and more. Now, you can still visit the gallery, which is close to Bourse, for free.

Head to Galerie Vivienne during wintertime (especially in the month or two leading up to Christmas) and you’ll soon discover that the covered Paris passage twinkles with the illumination of thousands of sparkling lights, particularly post dark.

Otherwise, it’s worth noting that one of the oldest bookshops in Paris, Librairie F Jousseaume dates all the way back to the first half of the 19th-century.

Of all the Passages Couverts of Paris, Passage des Panoramas is likely my favourite. And not just because this bustling arcade is the oldest arcade in the French capital.

A must-see for philatelists, once under the domed stained glass, you’ll soon discover a wide array of stamp collecting shops, vintage postcard stalls (I highly recommend Prins Patrick for picking up vintage postcards of Paris) , and a good selection of eateries, including the gluten-free, Noglu.

For those wishing to book a stay in a covered passage, you need to look no further than Passage Jouffroy in the 9th arrondissement of the city, just across the road from Passage des Panoramas.

After all, it’s here where you’ll find Hotel Chopin, a well-reviewed accommodation midway along the covered walkway (check prices and availability here).

Elsewhere along Passage Jouffroy, which was constructed in the 1840s and is unique in that it is formed by two long passages connected by a right-angle turn, you’ll soon find one of the oldest bookshops in Paris, a toy shop, and the entrance to the wax museum, which is the oldest of its kind in Europe.

Moving on to the lesser-known and more offbeat les passages of the city, Passage Choiseul is a continuation of Rue de Choiseul, a charming street in the second arrondissement of Paris. Constructed between 1826 and 1827, where the site now stands was once four former Hotel Particuliers.

For those with an interest in French literature , it’s worth noting that iconic writer Louis-Ferdinand Céline resided in Passage Choiseul during his childhood.

And it must have made an impression on Céline, for he went on to mention the passage in two of his more famous works, Death on the Installment Plan (Death on Credit), and Journey to the End of the Night.

Built in 1826, Galerie Veró-Dodat was one of the first covered passages to receive gas lighting, an incredibly modern technology at the time. This is one of the most prominent passages in the 1st arrondissement and is completely free to stroll along.

All black and white tiling and moulded ceilings, the passage is best-known for its many antique stores. In 1997, the gallery was renovated, restoring Galerie Vero-Dodat to its Neo-Classical heyday.

Nicknamed locally as ‘Little India,’ wander through Passage Brady in the 10th arrondissement and you can expect to find a large selection of Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi shops. The walkway is around a ten minute walk from Passage Verdeau and was constructed in 1828.

One of the best walkways of Paris, Passage Brady is unique in that it is one of the only passages to be split into two parts; one half is covered, the other can be found on the other side of Rue Strasbourg and is in the open air.

A must-see for anyone looking to purchase an antique or two while in the city, Passage Verdeau in the 9th arrondissement is the place to go.

Built in 1847 and characterised by its mosaic tiled flooring, high glass ceiling, and wooden storefronts, the passage is also home to several stamp collecting shops, vintage postcard vendors, and even some camera sellers.

The longest and narrowest covered passage in Paris can be found in the form of Passage du Caire, which stretches an impressive 360 metres.

Rather unique in the fact that the arcade forms a fishbone shape in its layout, walk inside and there are dozens of fashion retailers and places to purchase clothes.

Named for the Egyptian capital city Cairo, Passage du Caire features three statues of the Ancient Egyptian god, Hathor. Nearby, one of the best specialist supermarkets in Paris , Mexicoeur, sells all kinds of Mexican food products.

In constant rivalry and competition with nearby Galerie Vivienne since its construction in 1826, Galerie Colbert ended up being rather less successful than its down-the-same-street counterpart.

Today, there are no stores within this covered arcade, meaning that it’s one of the lesser-known of the Paris covered passages.

Instead, you can expect to find l’Institut National d’Histoire de l’Art and L’Institut National du Patrimoine and lots of Neo-Classical architecture. Please note that Galerie Colbert is hard to access and is typically closed to the public.

Close to the iconic Eglise de la Madeleine, Galerie de la Madeleine can be found in the 8th arrondissement of Pari s. Named for the nearby square and church, this elegant arcade was built in the 19th-century.

Today, the covered passage remains home to a series of boutique stores and food vendors. When entering Galerie de la Madeleine, be sure to check out the ornate cariatydes which flank either side of the entryway.

Little-known and away from the beaten tourist track, Passage des Princes is close to the Opera Palais Garnier Opera House and not far from the ever-so-famous Galeries Lafayette flagship store .

A must-see for anyone who wants to experience vintage toy stores, the true quirk of this passage is that although it was constructed in around 1860, it all but burned down in 1985! Nevertheless, the passage was faithfully reconstructed, detail for detail, and was reopened to the public in 1995.

Today, the entirety of the passage is occupied with a sprawling toy store which stocks everything from video games to stuffed and cuddly toys. More recently, part of the boutique has been giving over to the wizarding world, making it one of the best places to spy Harry Potter in Paris .

In the 3rd arrondissement of Paris, Passage Vendôme can be found just off the ever-popular Place de la Republique (i.e. the largest pedestrian square in Paris).

Though almost everyone passing through Paris goes through Place de la Republique on a regular basis, few even know of Passage Vendôme’s existence. Unfortunately, this once grand walkway has fallen into a state of disrepair, though still several commercial stores.

The shortest covered passage of Paris is that of Passage Puteaux. Opened to the public in 1839, the walkway measures just 29 metres and is named for the passage’s financer, Louis Puteaux.

Secret and away from the crowds that inevitably flock to the rest of the 8th arrondissement, the commercial aspect of Passage Puteaux soon failed, though the arcade itself is still in existence. Today, I would not prioritise this of all the Paris passages.

Close to the Etienne-Marcel metro station, Passage du Bourg l’Abbé is an escape from the hustle and bustle of the crowds of the second arrondissement of Paris.

Located between the Passage du Grand Cerf and Passage de l’Ancre, the arcade was modified in 1828 so as to add a glass roof which would protect shoppers from the rain and wind during bad weather.

Boarded up, neglected, and largely forgotten about by Parisians at large, Passage du Prado is in the 10th arrondissement of Paris.

Built in 1785, the passage is named for the Prado Museum in Madrid, Spain. Many of the shops in the passage de Paris have closed up shop, and there’s an ongoing petition by local residents to restore the gallery to its former glory.

Local restaurants and authentic stores can be found in Passage du Ponceau, a hidden passage in the 2nd arrondissement of the city. While everyone flocks to the Arts et Metiers museum, and its similarly beautiful metro station , few tourists venture inside Passage du Ponceau.

Built in 1826, Passage du Ponceau was then shortened in the 1840s to incorporate the new Boulevard de Sébastopol. Abandoned for decades and used as a storage facility, the passage is once more open to the public, albeit in an altered state.

After all, the glass ceiling and many other original features are simply gone, meaning its one of the least historic of the alleys in Paris.

Located in the Palais Royal, not far from the breathtakingly beautiful Jardin des Colonnes (Colonnes de Buren) , Galerie de Montpensier, La Galerie des Proues, and several other covered walkways are sheltered from the elements on three sides of the Palais Royal Complex.

Sheltering a number of shops, boutiques, and eateries, the most famous of these is probably Café Kitsuné , i.e. where you’ll find the best matcha latté in the city.

Located in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris, Passage Saint-Anne is 47 metres long, making it one of the shorter covered passage of the city.

Named for a nearby road, which in turn gets its name from Queen Anne of Austria, wife of Louis XIII, the covered arcade dates back to 1829, when it was built on the site of a former convent.

Part of the Passage du Saumon in the 2nd district of Paris, Passage Ben-Aïad is so-called after General Mahmoud Ben-Aïad who lived during the 19th-century.

On the place where the covered passage now stands, the Passage du Saumon was built in 1763, albeit without a covered rooftop. Though the passage is private, it can still be admired from the road, through metal iron grates.

Unlike most of the passages of Paris featured here, Passage Moliere is an open-top walkway, albeit still from the 19th-century. A cobbled lane with picture perfect storefronts, this is one of the few ancient walkways still remaining from Paris of old.

Though not technically a covered passageway of Paris, Passage de l’Ancre (Anchor Passage) can be found in Le Marais and is home to hidden gems like the oldest umbrella repair shop in Paris .

Often thought to be the oldest passage in the city, wandering through this tangle of overgrown plants and cobblestones feels akin to stepping back in time.

Please note that, as of January of 2021, PEP’s umbrella shop has unfortunately permanently closed. With this being said, it remains possible to wander through this hidden gem of Le Marais and enjoy the flora covered houses and shuttered façades.

Though it may not look like it today, Passage du Havre was once one of the original covered passages of Paris. Situated close to the Gare Saint Lazare train station and dating all the way back to 1845, the passage went through a large overhaul in the 1990s, transforming it into a modern-day shopping mall.

Step inside today and you can expect to fin d 40-plus boutiques and shops (for the most part, high street brands) . Located close to the Grands Magasins of Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, it’s worth noting that Passage du Havre is well-decorated during the festive period with twinkling lights and elevated ornaments.

Truth be told, one of the lesser known covered Passages of Paris is to be found in the 6th arrondissement of the city, somewhere between the illustrious Latin Quarter and not far from the über luxe district of Saint Germain des Prés . 

Cour du Commerce Saint-André is a delightful pedestrianised cobblestone lane hidden amongst a muddle of cafés, bars, and historic theatres. Home to a wide selection of boutiques and brasseries, this is one covered passage in Paris you won’t want to miss on your next French adventure!

Beaujolais is not only a wine region of France, but also the name of a partially covered tiny passage in the heart of the 1st arrondissement of the city. Just 17 metres long and 1.5 metres wide, half of the passage is covered as it stretches from rue de Montpensier to rue de Richelieu, not far from Palais-Royal.

Yet another Paris passage which is only partially covered is that of the Passage des Deux-Pavillons. Situated in the 1st arrondissement of Paris, the passage connects two particularly cute roads in Paris, 5, rue des Petits-Champs and 6, rue de Beaujolais.

This passage is located just a few hundred metres away from the Passage de Beaujolais and dates back to the first half of the 19th-century.

Lost Paris Passages

Of course, while there were dozens of passages de Paris once upon a time, today only a few remain. As such, many of the quirkiest of the Passages Couverts de Paris have been lost to the ages of time. Here’s a glimpse of some of the lost arcades and alleys of Paris:

Constructed in 1822, the Parisian arcade was barely up for more than a century before it was destroyed in 1925. The passage was named for a nearby opera house, that of Opéra Le Peletier, which is sadly also no longer standing. 

Galerie du Baromètre was one of three branches of the lost passage and would have linked rue Drouot with rue Le Peletier.

Whether you’re visiting the city for the first or fifth-hundredth time, check out my very best Paris travel tips . Each of the Parisian galeries has a different opening time, especially when it comes to festivals, bank holidays, and the like. As such, be sure to check what time the passage you’re planning to visit before you head out.

If you’re a fan of ornately covered arcades, then you’ll be delighted to discover that other cities in Europe have their own covered passages, though none have quite as many as Paris! Other cities which have their own passages include the city of Nantes and the Belgian capital city of Brussels.

Sophie Nadeau loves dogs, books, travel, pizza, and history. A Francophile at heart, she runs solosophie.com when she’s not chasing after the next sunset shot or consuming something sweet. She splits her time between Paris and London and travels as much as she can! Subscribe to Sophie’s YouTube Channel.

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Monday 24th of April 2023

Great article! I love these places! I was in Paris for the second week of Dec. 2021 staying close by at a hotel on Rue D'Antin so I'd make a point of walking through Cerf and Viv every day. Make sure to head through the Palais-Royal Garden when you exit the Viv - if you're heading toward the Seine. Even in winter it's lovely. I love the little sayings they have painted on the benches there.

Monday 29th of November 2021

Thanks Sophie, I´m going to Paris on friday, and was looking for info on the Passages, thank you so much for taking time to write about them, weather this weekend is promising alot of rain, so the Passages will be love to explore.

Sophie Nadeau

Tuesday 30th of November 2021

Thank you for your lovely comment! I hope that you enjoy your time in Paris :)

How to Spend 3 Days in Paris: The Perfect 3 Day Itinerary - Kirstie Will Travel

Sunday 18th of April 2021

[…] I recommend visiting Passage du Grand Cerf, Passage de Panoramas and Galerie Vivienne, based on the expert recommendations of Sophie (SoloSophie) in her guide to the covered passages of Paris. […]

Laura Espinoza

Friday 2nd of October 2020

FYI - Galerie Colbert is closed to the public (if you're not a student of l’Institut National d’Histoire de l’Art or L’Institut National du Patrimoine)!

Wednesday 24th of April 2019

I came across your site when working on my next Paris trip. I just wanted to let you know, keep up the amazing work. I really love how detail you get with each post. Your site has been so helpful! I'll be back to take a look at yours for other trips for sure!

Travel Off Path

The Top 9 FREE Things To Do In Paris (That Are Actually Worth Your Time)

Posted: May 24, 2024 | Last updated: May 24, 2024

1. Musée Carnavalet

2. Free Museums On The First Sunday

3. Basilica of Sacré-Cœur

4. Galeries Lafayette

5. Père Lachaise Cemetery

6. Luxembourg Garden

7. Free Walking Tour

8. Centre Pompidou

9. Covered Passages

Dale Peterson

Dale is a full-time traveler and writer with over 6 years of experience. She's traveled to more than 55 countries around the globe and specializes in covering solo travel and digital nomadism.

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