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The Best Bike Tool Kits Give You a Quick Fix

Fix a flat, a chain, anything!

Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. How we test gear.

Whether you’re miles from home or just simply trying to get to work on time, a flat tire or other mechanical issue can throw a wrench into your plans. As a person who literally rides their bike everywhere, I never leave home without a bike tool kit, no matter where I’m heading.

Unless something catastrophic happens (like your wheel frame splintering or your frame cracking), you can make most minor mechanical repairs on the road with the right bike tools . Carrying one of the best bike tool kits and a little elbow grease, means you’ll be back on your way in no time, rather than calling a cab.

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Best Bike Tool Kits

Best All-in-One Tool Kit

Bontrager flat pack.

Wotow Bike Repair Tool Kit

Best for Road Bikes

Lezyne m-caddy sport kit.

Best for Multiple Bikes

Topeak deluxe accessory kit.

Best Kit for Triathletes

Lezyne tubeless loaded flow storage cage w/ co2.

Best for Mountain Bikes

Fix manufacturing mtb field kit.

Best Kit for Tubeless Tires

Topeak gravel gear bag.

Most Unique Design

Wolf tooth components encase bar kit one.

The Expert: I'm a New York-based journalist who writes about cycling and outdoor gear for HuffPost, Adventure Cycling Magazine, BBC Travel, Vulture, Dirt Rag Magazine, and many others. I'm an all-weather bike commuter, member of CRCA, the New York Cycling Club, and Transportation Alternatives, as well as a gravel and road rider who, once long ago, actually raced. These days I'm anavid bike-packer. I've trekked across a good part of the world, from Beijing to Istanbul, through eastern and western Europe.

What to Consider When Buying a Bike Tool Kit

Some folks might prefer to buy a saddle bag and gradually build a repair kit over time with the tools they want, but it’s easier — and more affordable — to buy an off-the-shelf kit (especially if you’re starting from scratch.) If that sounds like your speed, you can rest assured that there are repair kits for every kind of cyclist, with a range of styles to help you fix every kind of problem.

What tools do you need in a bike tool kit?

A properly stocked bike kit should, at the very least, give you all the tools you need to fix a flat tire . More specifically, it should have bike levers, a patch kit, and one of two tools to inflate a tire – either CO2 cartridges and an inflator head or a mini pump .

To complete your kit, you will need to purchase inner tubes specific to your bike to keep with your kit, as no one stock kit can accommodate every style and size out there. If you have wheels with deep rims, you may also need a longer valve to properly fill the tube with air. If you’re unsure about which tubes to buy, ask someone at your local bike shop.

Beyond fixing flats, many kits will also throw in a multi-tool with the most common hex wrench sizes (4, 5, and 6mm), a flat-head screwdriver, and possibly a T25 Torx bit (for properly tightening down bolts). The multi-tool will allow you to make minor adjustments to your bike like changing the seat height and loosening clipless pedals.

One last thing to keep in mind: Though many bikes have quick-release skewers/axles, some bikes still feature thru axles, which require the proper hex wrench or wheel key to remove your wheel and fix a flat.

Inflation Gear: CO2, Pump, or Both?

Every rider has their own preference on the best tool for inflating their tires – CO2 or a pump.

A CO2 cartridge inflates your tire fast, and using one takes a lot less work. You screw a cartridge into a CO2 holder, then insert the tube stem into the cartridge holder the same way you would with a pump, and slowly release the CO2 into the tire. That said, your CO2 is a limited resource: Each cartridge has enough gas to fill one tire, so there’s less room for error. Practice makes perfect, so I recommend using one at home before bringing them out on the road.

I’d always recommend carrying a mini pump, whether you bring CO2 along or not. Even if you prefer CO2, it’s a useful backup—some are designed to attach to your frame, and some are small enough to fit into a jersey pocket or even a seat bag. It takes some muscle to pump up a tube to 80 – 100 psi with a small hand pump, but it always works.

Get The Right Kit for Your Bike

Make sure you pick a repair kit that can help you fix your specific bike. First and foremost, that means choosing one that can fix tubeless tires if you have them. Some, but not all, kits come with the gear you need to fix tubeless tires. The Topeak Gravel Gear Bag on our list, for example, includes tubeless-tire repair plugs and the Tubi 11 mini-tool, which is equipped for tubeless-tire repairs.

Kit Storage

Most bike tool kits are designed to attach under your saddle or somewhere on your frame. Saddle bags may come with a bolt-on mechanism that you’ll need to secure the bag to your seat rails and/or seat post. If you have two water bottle holders on your bike, there are also kits that fit into a water bottle holder.

If you really want to keep your kit out of sight, there are options like the Wolf Tooth Components EnCase that fit discreetly inside the ends of your handlebar.

If, somewhere down the road, you decide to upgrade to a larger, roomier tool kit with room for extra supplies and more tools to fix bigger problems like a snapped shifter or brake cable, a broken chain, or a bent derailleur, there are lots of well-designed bike bags to choose from.

How We Selected The Best Bike Tool Kits

One of our experts owned a car for over twenty years. Cycling is her primary mode of transportation (only an active snowstorm sends her to the subway). As well as commuting and just regular getting around town, she participates in long group road or gravel rides weekly and has ridden her bike through many countries (including a five-month long trip across Central Asia). She’s experienced almost every manner of bike mechanical there is – from super common like the inevitable, occasional flat to downright weird like a wheel rim crumpling mid-ride. All of this is to say that we have spent a lot of time using bike tool kits and know firsthand what makes a good one.

We’ve also researched bike tool kits online, scoured customer reviews and ratings, and factored in price and value while also obtaining input from the Bicycling gear editors. After all that, we’ve selected the best bike tool kits for any kind of rider, on any bike, on any adventure.

This lightweight, all-around kit attaches underneath the saddle and stores what you need to fix a flat while leaving a little extra space for other necessities like keys or cash. The included multitool has seven hex wrenches, flat and Phillips screwdrivers, and a T25 Torx bit for minor repairs and adjustments.

And for all your flat-fixing needs: a mini pump with frame attachment, a patch kit, tire levers, and—bonus!—a coupon for one free standard Bontrager presta or Schrader inner tube. Not a bad deal for around $50.

This relatively affordable bike repair tool kit frame bag from Wotow includes a robust 16-piece multi-tool with a spoke wrench, a mini pump, patch kit, and tire levers. The triangle-shaped bag attaches to your frame under the front of your seat via velcro straps.

There’s an inside pocket that accommodates a cell phone, as well as an exterior pocket for the included mini pump (and a valve adapter). You can also fit quite a few extras inside including tubes, snacks, wallet, and other tools (or a couple CO2 cartridges).

Founded by former professional triathlete Micki Kozuschek, Lezyne makes a number of decent tool kit options, including the Sport Kit, which I like for road bikes. Constructed of durable nylon fabric with a water-resistant zipper, this wedge-shaped bag keeps contents dry in a rain shower or through road spray.

It stows all your essential tools in its main compartment with labeled organizational pockets. A second, smaller compartment on the underside holds a phone or other items. Ideal for commuting or longer rides.

This seat bag attaches to your seat rails via nylon straps and buckles and to your seat post with a Velcro strap, so it’s easy to swap from bike to bike when you need to make a change. The adjustable straps give you a nice tight fit against the seat.

The 11-function mini tool has 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8mm hex tools, a #2 Phillips screwdriver head, and a T20/T25 Torx wrench. There’s also a reflective strip across the back with a place to attach a rear clip light and room inside the bag for a couple tubes and some snacks.

Triathlon bikes are generally built to be more aerodynamic than road bikes, with a more aggressive body position. The goal is to have the most efficient, aero cycling machine possible, so there’s very little room for a seat or frame bag. This kit packs everything you need to fix a tubeless tire on the fly in an easily accessible water bottle cage, so there’s no bag holding you back.

If you want to bring along a spare tube (or aren’t running tubeless), you can slide one into your jersey pocket or consider another water-bottle-shaped tool storage container that fits into the cage holder, such as the Flow Tool Caddy Pro .

The MTB Field Kit is like a first-aid kit for your bike. It includes not only the tools you need to make on-the-fly adjustments and repairs, but also a few extras to do some trailhead parking-lot maintenance.

In addition to essentials like an 8-in-1 multitool, mini pump with gauge, a chain breakers, and tire levers, you also get a shop rag and a couple brushes, refillable chain lube and degreaser, a tape measure, a screwdriver, a spoke wrench, and a full-size pedal wrench.

It all comes neatly organized in the labeled pouch with plenty of room leftover for spare tools, parts, and a tube.

The Gravel Gear Bag attaches to the top tube via two hook-and-loop straps and is constructed of durable 1000D nylon—ideal for rugged riding situations. The bag opens up like a book to reveal pockets designed to hold everything you need to fix a flat or repair a tubeless tire.

The Tubi 11 multitool includes six hex wrenches, a T25 Torx wrench, and a tire lever. Behind the tire lever, you’ll find a tire reamer and plug-insertion tool, and a small knife to trim the tire plugs. Also in the bag: the Power Lever X (levers, master link pliers, and presta valve core tool), the AirBooster CO2 inflator, and 10 tubeless-tire plugs.

This unique, American-made kit fits inside the ends of most mountain and road bike handlebars. The secure, space-saving design ensures you never have to worry about anything accidentally flying off your bike during gnarly descents or pothole-riddled roads.

The multi-tool includes seven hex wrenches, flat and Phillips screwdrivers, a spoke wrench, a valve core wrench, and three Torx bits (T10, T25, and T30). The EnCase Chain + Tire Plug tool is compatible with most chains, including 12-speed, and has a tire plug at one end.

Both tools slide neatly into the included storage sleeves which fit snugly inside your handlebar for a rattle-free design.

Q+A With Bike Repair Expert Vanessa Nirode

BI: How do I learn how to use the tools in my tool kit?

VN: Carrying a tool kit on your bike won’t do you much good if you don’t know how to use it. There’s a whole world of bike repair tutorials and resources available online that can teach you how to fix a flat or repair a broken chain, including plenty from the Bicycling team .

Many local bike shops also offer repair and maintenance classes, if you’d like more hands-on instruction. More than anything, though, if you’ve never changed a flat tire before, practice at home before heading out on your own.

BI : I have a basic tool kit. What’s the next tool I should buy?

VN: If you’re expanding your tool kit, I’d consider adding a chain breaker and a quick link , which allow you to fix your bike chain on the fly. The chain breaker allows you to disconnect a bike chain, so you can adjust the length of your chain or install a new one.

A quick link replaces a chain link with a set of interlocking plates, which you can install without a chain breaker. Without a functioning chain, there’s no way to pedal your bike, so keeping these on you may be the difference between a quick fix and a trip to the repair shop.

As with tire repair gear, make sure to look for gear that’s compatible with your specific bike.

BI : Are there any repairs I shouldn’t try to make on the fly?

VN: Any structural damage to your bike makes it unsafe to ride. If your frame or wheel rim cracks while out on a ride, you’ll need to stop and bring your bike to a shop. You could seriously injure yourself if you attempt to ride a damaged bicycle.

BI : Should I carry any spare parts in my tool kit besides tubes?

VN: I know quite a few people who carry a spare rear derailleur as a backup if the installed one on their bike gets bent or broken in a fall. The folks who carry one usually do so because they’ve had one break on them before.

I like to have both a replacement shifter cable and brake cable, especially when I’m riding a bike that has a Campagnolo groupset (not all bike shops carry Campy parts).

BI : How do I carry gear that doesn’t fit in my tool kit?

VN: The back pocket of your jersey is a great place to stash a spare tube, a mini pump, and any additional tools that don't fit in your bag. Just be sure to avoid over-stuffing it to the point where it weighs you down and disrupts your ride.

Most pumps come with a method of attaching them directly to your frame so they don’t take up space in a bag.

BI : Do I really need my own tools if I’m going on a group ride with a bunch of other people? Won’t someone else have them?

VN: Please do not be this person. It's rude to join a group ride without the ability and tools to fix your own flat.

It's customary for people riding together to help each other out and wait when someone has mechanical trouble, but you should, at the very least, have two tubes, tire levers, and a pump with you. Don’t make your bike someone else’s problem.

Vanessa Nirode is a freelance writer who covers wellness, culture, outdoor adventure and travel for Hearst , HuffPost , PopSci , BBC Travel , and Threads , among others. She’s also a pattern maker and tailor for film and television but most of the time, she’d rather just be riding her bicycle.

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FOX Trek Thru-Shaft Rebuild Kit

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Description

• Rebuild kit for servicing compatible Trek specific Thru-Shaft rear shocks.

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2018 Trek Thru Shaft Shock Rebuild

Required parts.

• 803-01-157 Seal Kit: Trek Thru Shaft (TSS), Spring and Damper Rebuild

Required Tools

• 398-00-614 Tooling: 2015 Trek RG Valve Stack Transfer Tool
• 398-00-748 Service tooling: Trek Thru Shaft IFP Bleed Screw torque tool
• 398-00-749 Service tooling: Trek Thru Shaft IFP removal tool
• 398-00-951 Tooling: Torque Fixture, 54mm Trunnion Eyelet, Tall
• 803-00-208 or 803-00-805 Kit: Clamp, Shaft and Body, 2005 DHX or Kit: Shaft Clamps, Shocks, CTD 9mm, 3/8in, 1/2in, 5/8in

Supplies Needed

• 1.5mm Hex Wrench
• 10mm Socket
• 21mm Cone Wrench or Thinned Crow's Foot
• 2mm Hex Wrench
• 4mm Hex Wrench
• 5/8" Wrench
• 5mm Hex Wrench
• Needle-Nosed Pliers
• Smooth Jawed Pliers (Knipex)
• Snap-Ring Pliers
• Torque Wrench

Disassembly

WARNING: Always wear safety glasses and protective gloves during service to prevent potential injury. Failure to wear protective equipment during service may lead to SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

WARNING: FOX products should be serviced by a trained bicycle service technician, in accordance with FOX specifications. If you have any doubt whether or not you can properly service your FOX product, then DO NOT attempt it. Improperly serviced products can fail, causing the rider to lose control resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

WARNING: FOX suspension products contain pressurized nitrogen, air, oil, or all 3. Suspension misuse can cause property damage, SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. DO NOT puncture, incinerate or crush any portion of a FOX suspension product. DO NOT attempt to disassemble any portion of a FOX suspension product, unless expressly instructed to do so by the applicable FOX technical documentation, and then ONLY while strictly adhering to all FOX instructions and warnings in that instance.

WARNING: Modification, improper service, or use of aftermarket replacement parts with FOX forks and shocks may cause the product to malfunction, resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. DO NOT modify any part of a fork or shock, including the fork brace (lower leg cross brace), crown, steerer, upper and lower leg tubes, or internal parts, except as instructed herein. Any unauthorized modification may void the warranty, and may cause failure or the fork or shock, resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

Locate the flats on the front and back of the Clevis on the end of the body. Carefully clamp the flats of the Clevis in your soft-jawed vise. 

Use a 21mm cone wrench or thinned 21mm crow's foot to unthread the body counter-clockwise from the Clevis.

Gently clamp the eyelet in your soft-jawed vise so the mounting bolt areas are the only portions of the eyelet contacting the vise. Remove the black air cap and thread on our shock pump. S lowly release all air from the main air chamber with your pump. Remove the pump. Verify that all air has been released by depressing the Schrader valve with a lint-free towel covering the valve to prevent any oil spray.

Unthread the air sleeve from the eyelet by turning it counter-clockwise. Remove the air sleeve after unthreading by pulling it away from the shock.

Clean the shock damper with a lint-free paper towel and isopropyl alcohol. Push the body up the shaft toward the eyelet.

Clamp the Slave Shaft in your shaft clamps (PN: 803-00-208 or 803-00-805). Slowly unthread the End Cap counter-clockwise with a 10mm socket while holding downward pressure to prevent the IFP spring from popping up and out. Lift it up to remove. Replace the o-ring on the end cap with a new greased once from the kit. Set the IFP spring aside.

Remove the shock from the shaft clamps and fully extend the damper by pulling the body away from the eyelet. Position the shock in your soft-jawed vise with the body facing up and the wrench flats of the bearing housing clamped securely. Make sure that no portion of the shock is contacting the vise beneath the jaws. 

Use a 21mm cone wrench or thinned crow's foot to begin to unthread the body counter-clockwise from the bearing housing. Once loose, remove the shock from the vise and continue unthreading the body from the bearing housing over your waste oil drain.

Clamp the slave shaft in your 1/2" shaft clamps with the eyelet at the top. Unthread the rebound check bolt with the damper from the slave shaft by turning the 5/8" (15.88mm) nut beneath the valve housing cap counter-clockwise.

Unthread the IFP jet insert counter-clockwise with a 4mm hex wrench and lift it out to remove. Set the IFP jet insert aside. 

Remove the slave shaft from the shaft clamps and invert it over your work bench. Tap the slave shaft against the bench to allow the filter disc to drop out.

Invert the slave shaft and clamp it in your shaft clamps so the end with the OD bevel faces down. Insert the IFP bleed screw torque tool (PN: 398-00-748) into the shaft engaging its male hex within the female hex of the IFP.

Insert a 2mm hex wrench through the IFP bleed screw torque tool and into the IFP bleed screw. Hold the IFP bleed screw torque tool stationary while you unthread the IFP bleed screw counter-clockwise. Remove the IFP bleed screw torque tool and the bleed screw. Replace the o-ring on the bleed screw with a new greased one from the kit.

Insert the IFP removal tool (PN: 398-00-749) into the shaft, then thread it clockwise into the bleed hole of the IFP. Pull up to remove the IFP. Replace the o-ring on the IFP with a new greased one from the kit.

Gently clamp the eyelet in your soft-jawed vise so the mounting bolt areas are the only portions of the eyelet contacting the vise. 

Lightly squeeze the outside of the RG valve housing with smooth jawed pliers to prevent the valve housing cap from unthreading. Remove the rebound check bolt by unthreading it counter-clockwise with a 5/8" socket. Set aside the valves found underneath the rebound check bolt.

Insert a 5mm hex wrench into the valve housing cap. Turn the 5mm counter-clockwise to unthread then lift to remove the valve housing cap. 

Use fine snap-ring pliers to hold the inner Blowoff Piston Valve as you separate it from the outer Valving Housing Cap.  Separate the ring shim from the Blowoff Piston Valve if necessary. Replace the o-ring on the Blowoff Piston Valve with a greased one from the rebuild kit.

Install the ring shim into the Valve Housing Cap. Carefully install the Blowoff Piston Valve into the Valve Housing Cap without pinching the new o-ring. Press the parts together to seat them fully.

Remove the wave spring from within the RG valve housing. Grab the screw in the center of the open RG valve housing and pull straight up to remove the adjuster rod and spring perch. 

Unthread the piston bolt counter-clockwise with an 8mm socket. Remove the piston bolt, valve housing, and any valves, keeping them in order. Replace the glide ring and o-ring on the valve housing with new ones from the kit.

Remove the bearing assembly by pulling it up off of the shaft. Replace all seals with new greased ones from the kit.

Remove the bottom out plate and o-ring by pulling them up off of the shaft. 

Clamp the shaft in your shaft clamps with the eyelet at the top. Unthread the eyelet from the shaft by turning it counter-clockwise with the Trunnion eyelet torque tool (PN: 398-00-099). 

Lift out the rebound adjuster rod and replace both its outer o-ring and inner square-cut o-ring with new greased ones from the kit. Clean the Loctite residue off of the shaft threads.

Clean the Loctite residue from within the shaft boss on the inside of the eyelet. Replace the air sleeve o-ring within the eyelet with a new greased one from the kit.

NOTE: The following steps show removal and replacement of the adjuster knobs and cam. You do not need to remove the adjuster knobs and cam to replace seals within the shock. Removal of the adjuster knobs and cam is only needed to clean and lubricate these parts and can be skipped if no grit or resistance is felt when making adjustments.

Unthread counter-clockwise and remove the set screw from the top of the eyelet with a 1.5mm hex wrench. This will allow for the removal of the adjuster knobs and cam. Make sure not to lose the rebound detent ball and spring which may stick to the back of the rebound knob or remain in the small hole in the eyelet just above the bore for the adjusters and cam.

Clean the adjuster knobs and cam then lubricate them with waterproof grease such as Sta-Lube SL3125 from CRC Industries. Affix the detent ball to the back side of the rebound knob or to the detent spring in the small hole in the eyelet above the bore for the adjusters and cam with a small amount of grease. Insert the adjuster knobs and cam making sure to capture the detent ball. Hold the adjusters in place as you reinstall the 1.5mm set screw, tightening clockwise until the screw contacts the cam, then back it out 1/4 turn.

Make sure that the very small ball bearing is present in the raised portion of the rebound metering rod. Insert the rebound metering rod into the eyelet with the raised portion containing the small ball bearing oriented toward the front of the eyelet. 

Apply a small drop of red Loctite 277 to the shaft threads, then install the shaft over the rebound metering rod and into the eyelet threading it in clockwise by hand. 

Clamp the shaft in your shaft clamps then tighten the eyelet to the shaft clockwise tightening to 85 in-lb (9.6 Nm) with the Trunnion eyelet torque tool.

Remove the shock from the clamps and gently clamp the eyelet in your soft-jawed vise so the mounting bolt areas are the only portions of the eyelet contacting the vise. Reinstall the bottom out plate followed by a new bottom out o-ring from the kit.

Carefully reinstall the rebuilt bearing assembly onto the shaft taking care not to damage the u-cup seal. 

Set the Trek RG Valve Stack Transfer Tool (PN: 398-00-614) on your work bench. Install the piston bolt onto the tool followed by the rebound valves. Install the valve housing onto the tool next followed by the compression valves and topout plate.

Invert the loaded Trek RG Valve Stack Transfer Tool onto the shaft then turn the tool clockwise to begin threading the piston bolt into the shaft. Remove the tool then tighten the piston bolt clockwise with an 8mm socket tightening to 60 in-lb (6.8 Nm).

Carefully install the adjuster rod assembly being careful not to damage the o-ring inside the shaft that the rod goes through. Set the blue lever to Open Mode (fully counter-clockwise) while gently pushing the rod assembly as far into the Valve Housing as possible.

Install the new wave spring from the kit into the valve housing.

Reinstall the valves onto the rebound check bolt without pinching them then thread the bolt with valves into the valve housing cap assembly clockwise.

Drop the new filter disc from the kit into the end of the slave shaft with the OD bevel. 

Insert the IFP jet into the slave shaft on top of the filter disc. Turn it clockwise with your 4mm hex wrench to thread it in, tightening until snug.

Loosely install the IFP bleed screw into the IFP. This screw should be tightened enough to prevent oil leakage, but still loose enough to remove without the IFP bleed screw torque tool.

Hold the slave shaft with the IFP jet and filter disc at the bottom, then add FOX 10wt. Green oil (PN: 025-03-008) to the open end until full. 

Slowly install the IFP into the slave shaft with the IFP's hex feature facing up.   

Invert the slave shaft and position it onto the IFP bleed screw torque tool. Slowly press the slave shaft down onto the IFP bleed screw torque tool until approximately 1.5" (~38mm) of the tool is still visible. Keep in mind that oil will be pushed through the filter disc and out of the top of the slave shaft.

Insert the bevelled end of the slaft shaft into the body through the u-cup in the yoke end of the body. Once inserted, rest the slave shaft on your bench and push the body down until it fully covers the shaft.

Fill the body completely with FOX 10wt. Green oil.

Pull the bearing assembly up against the piston assembly. Fill the valve housing with FOX 10wt. Green oil. 

Install the rebuilt valve housing cap onto the valve housing, threading it in clockwise until hand tight.

Rest the oil filled body with slave shaft against your workbench or the top of your vise jaws as shown. This will prevent the slave shaft from being pushed out of the body as the piston assembly displaces oil within the body.  Slowly insert the valving assembly into the oil-filled body, then thread the bearing assembly clockwise to the body while watching for clean bubble-free oil coming out through the threads at the bottom of the bearing assembly.

Position the shock in your soft-jawed vise with the body facing up and the wrench flats of the bearing housing clamped securely. Make sure that no portion of the shock is contacting the vise beneath the jaws. 

Use a 21mm Park Tool cone wrench or thinned crow's foot with your torque wrench to thread the body clockwise to the bearing assembly, tightening to 180 in-lb (20.3 Nm) torque.  

Hold the body still and rotate the eyelet and shaft clockwise to thread the slave shaft on to the rebound check bolt until the slave shaft is flush with the yellow wiper in the end of the body. 

Gently clamp the eyelet in your soft-jawed vise so the mounting bolt areas are the only portions of the eyelet contacting the vise and the body is at the top.

Unthread the IFP bleed screw counter-clockwise with a 2mm hex wrench. Lift the screw out with the wrench or a magnet. 

Push the IFP down to the specified IFP depth with your calipers. 

Insert the IFP bleed screw into the shaft and begin threading it clockwise into the IFP with your 2mm hex wrench. Remove the hex wrench and insert the IFP bleed screw torque tool engaging its hex feature with the hex of the IFP. Insert your 2mm hex wrench through the IFP bleed screw torque tool engaging the hex of the bleed screw. Hold the IFP bleed screw torque tool stationary while you tighten the IFP bleed screw clockwise until hand tight.

Invert the shock over your waste oil basin to drain out excess oil from within the slave shaft.

Insert the IFP spring, then use the end cap to compress the spring. Thread the slave shaft end cap clockwise into the slave shaft tightening to 22in-lb (2.5 Nm) with a 10mm socket.

Note: End Cap torque is critical. Only install the End Cap using a torque wrench!

Apply a thin film of Float Fluid to the main air seals on the bearing assembly and the seals in the end of the air sleeve. Slide the air sleeve onto the shock damper, then thread it to the eyelet clockwise until hand tight.

Install a new travel indicator o-ring from the kit onto the body. Slide the clevis over the slave shaft, then begin threading it clockwise onto the shock body.  Carefully clamp the flats of the Clevis in your soft-jawed vise. Tighten to 180 in-lb with your 21mm cone wrench or thinned crows foot.

Attach your shock pump then add air while you slowly cycle your shock through 25% of its travel 10 times as you reach your desired pressure. Reinstall the black air cap. Clean the exterior of your shock and dyno test it to verify proper function.

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Fox Shox Seal Kit, 9mm Thru Shaft, Trek

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• UPC ID: 821973378787
• Manufacturer ID: 803-01-435
• Category: Frame Shock Service Parts
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Description

Fox rear shock seal/rebuild kits, item specifications, create stock alert.

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Fork Upgrade Trek 3700

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I've been wanting to upgrade the front forks of my Trek 3700. I'm pretty sure the bushings in the fork are shot and I've been looking at upgrading to a decent air fork. My bike is a 26" and I've got a 9mm QR. I'd like to keep the QR, and because I'm a semi-poor college student I'd like to spend less than $500. I've looked at some manitou forks and was looking on amazon and saw they sell rebuild kits for the R7 Pro which is one of the forks I was looking at. My bike currently has 100mm of travel and I'd like to stick with that or go to 120mm. Suggestions are more than welcome. And no I'm not buying a new bike but would like to have something better than the suntour XCT's that are currently on my bike.  

The Trek 3700 is already a little short in the top tube for the given size, meaning that you're already sitting relatively upright and aren't putting as much weight on the front wheel as you would on a bike with a longer top tube. If you put a 120 mm fork on there, there's a good chance the front will be light and want to wander on steep climbs, and make it steer on par with a dump truck while descending anything less than straight down a hill. I would advise sticking with a 100 mm travel fork. A better quality fork will feel like it has more travel because it is making better use of the travel it has. This should have the right specs to fit your bike and is within your budget range: https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pr...jLSyOP9q1litisOjyGdbbc3vdbATVJwm8rBoCdDXw_wcB  

Thank you. That was also one of the ones I was looking at and you make a good point about going to the 120. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

That link is for a 29" wheel, you stated you have a 26" wheel. I don't know first hand if that will work properly.  

Didn't see that the first time I looked at it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

Do you have disc brakes on that bike? I'd definitely stick with 100mm, and a 26 specific fork. If you get a 29er fork in 100mm it's going to be about the same height as a 130mm 26" wheel fork. Just jump on ebay and get a reba. Make sure you know if your headtube is tapered or 1 1/8". New ones or new take offs go for around $300 - $450, used all the way down to about $100. Extremely usable travel, light, and one of the most reliable forks on the market.  

I'd like to get something that I can rebuild myself to keep costs down. I think the op that posted that link was using that as an example of the fork  

I know that Suntour forks are lower on the totem pole, but they make decent quality air forks that fit your budget and bike. This one has remote lock-out, 100mm travel, and an air-spring. They also offer it in white. New SR Suntour Epixon Epicon XC MTB Fork 26" 100mm Remote Lock Air Spring Black | eBay mountain bike fork | eBay  

If your bike has a 1 1/8" straight steerer: New RockShox Recon Gold TK Soloair 100 26 9QR Black Turnkey Full Warranty | eBay If it is tapered: Rock Shox Recon Gold RL Solo Air 26" Tapered MTB Bike Suspension Fork 22 5cm New | eBay I've tried to find a Recon Race on eBay, but they are a rare breed. I bought a new one a few years ago for just over $200, and it has worked very well on my 2006 Hardrock HT.  

Where are these swap meets where I can get one of these for $25? I got one for $75 earlier this year for a relative, and I could use more of them. Anyway, I agree that if the OP is going to sink hundreds of dollars into this fork, they should have an end plan for the fork, whether it's selling it a few years out, or using it in this frame for 7 years or moving it to a different frame. I'm going through this with my transitional 26er I'm building for kids. I want it to suit the needs of the kids, and when they outgrow it I can morph it onto a new frame that I can have fun with (so the fork isn't wasted after 2 years) To keep costs and maintenance down though I'm thinking to go with a surly troll fork.  

I plan on keeping the bike for a while. At least 5 years. And when I when I do end up upgrading to a new bike, I'll keep my current one around as a "beater" bike. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

Yeah LA is a big place, and I can see why there would be a bigger supply of 15 to 20 year old bikes that were quite nice at the time. People here wonder how I got that 3700 in such nice shape for $75. I'm spending less time looking there because too much time is required per dollar saved.  

Bike is literally 4 years old. If it was older I wouldn't be spending money on it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

erbear28 said: Bike is literally 4 years old. If it was older I wouldn't be spending money on it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Click to expand...

The R7 Pro you were looking at before you started this thread is better than anything else suggested. Marvel would be great too, being 32mm it would be stiffer, but also heavier. Reba is a very good fork also, but not better than the R7, except in the long run, Reba will be easier to get parts for. If you get an R7, it would be a good idea to get a seal kit at the same time. They are at good prices now because the R7 was discontinued this year.  

Yea. I saw rebuild kits for $30 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

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‘Solo’ Review: Sophie Dupuis Delivers a Beautiful Character Study That’s Anything but a Drag

Théodore Pellerin mesmerizes as a young drag performer navigating a volatile new relationship just as his estranged mother returns to his life.

By Todd Gilchrist

Todd Gilchrist

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Shrewdly understanding that the more specific the story, the more universally relatable it is, Dupuis conceives a world for Simon and his counterparts that feels fully realized and authentic without sacrificing accessibility to viewers unfamiliar with its iconography. Though one of Simon’s fellow queens occasionally leverages the grievances of their community for performance material (mostly comedic), Dupuis highlights how their cabaret is a refuge that allows them to interact joyfully (if sometimes cattily) with one another and, more than that, to express themselves free from intolerance. Yet for a movie set in such a specific subculture, Dupuis makes it easy to draw parallels to more immediately recognizable lives and lifestyles, especially once it becomes threatened by emotional complications.

The reactions from both Simon and Maude to their mother’s return tells everything an audience needs to know about them, what they’re seeking and what they — especially Simon — become vulnerable to. Maude, angry and guarded, has become a protector for her brother; when she sees him, not only chase after Claire’s approval, but also supplicate himself to Olivier’s domineering attitudes, she is simultaneously worried for him and threatened. Simon, meanwhile, empathizes with his mother even in her absence; while he waits for her reciprocity, Olivier’s early expressions of love seduce him into accepting insensitivity, infidelity and, eventually, abuse. Older and more experienced, Olivier knows what he wants and how to get it; he finds in Simon someone so desperate for a connection that he’s incapable of identifying when one does more harm than good.

Slender, graceful and beautiful, 26-year-old Pellerin exudes both the authority and charisma of Simon’s alter ego, Glory Gold, and the young man’s vulnerability when he’s off stage. In an extraordinary performance, he makes the audience want to protect Simon — from the escalating indignities suffered with Olivier, the inevitable disappointment of Claire and even his own reflexive cruelty as he begins to lose himself. As Olivier, though, Maritaud is no one-dimensional villain, even if viewers understandably arrive at that conclusion. The character doesn’t just seek a romantic partner in Simon, but also a thriving participant in a community in which he aspires to gain a foothold. Playing the role, Maritaud doles out his calculating mistreatment in measured doses.

Along with Moreault’s fretting, often frustrated sibling Maude, Dupuis maneuvers these characters for maximum impact with making it seem like she’s manipulating the audience. Capturing each phase of Simon and Olivier’s relationship with equal sensitivity and affection, she chronicles a trajectory familiar to anyone who’s been in love — the dizzying slow motion of early attraction, the niggling irritation that grows from familiarity, and the awkward, unpleasant confrontations that force a reckoning either to repair things or part ways. But Dupuis is also telling the story of how Simon learns to love himself, or at least see himself more clearly, which pulls the film inexorably towards an uncertain but better-for-going-through-it conclusion.

Dupuis’ self-professed desire to champion and defend drag performance with the film suggests outwardly that its impact could overall be one of advocacy. But aside from showcasing a series of spectacular performances, it primarily underscores the fact that the queens themselves are ordinary (if equally fabulous) people when they are off stage — and more than that, possessed of the same aspirations, foibles and vulnerabilities as anybody else. “Drag queens are people too” admittedly sounds like a trite takeaway from the film, but Dupuis makes the story not just illuminating but accessible because it’s about people, and not just a community. Moreover, she manages to do so while creating a vivid and appealing canvas for Simon’s journey.

Ultimately, it’s precisely that multi-tiered combination that makes “Solo” one of the year’s best films, and the thing that will leave audiences feeling like Simon at the beginning of his relationship with Olivier: intoxicated with the prospect of falling in love with a great young director and ravenously eager to see from her what comes next.

Reviewed online, June 12, 2024. MPA Rating: R Running time: 102 MIN.

• Production: Music Box Films, Axia Films presents a Bravo Charlie production. Producer: Etienne Hansez.
• Crew: Director, writer: Sophie Dupuis. Camera: Mathieu Laverdière. Editors: Marie-Pier Dupuis, Dominique Fortin, Maxim Rheault. Music: Charles Lavoie.
• With: Théodore Pellerin, Félix Maritaud, Anne-Marie Cadieux, Alice Moreault.
• Music By: Charles Lavoie

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