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Best bike locks 2024 - Quality locks to keep your bike secure

The best bike locks will help you keep your bike safe when you leave it

• ▶ U-LOCKS

Best all-around

High security

Medium security

• ▶ FOLDING LOCKS
• High Security
• Low security
• ▶ CHAIN LOCKS

Best chain lock

• Use with a car rack
• How to choose

1. Quick list 2. U-locks - Best all-around - High security - Medium security - Budget 3. Folding locks - High security - Smart - Medium security - Low security 4. Chain locks - Best chain lock - Use with a car rack - Budget 5. How to choose  

If you are looking for the best bike lock, it can be easy to fall into a rabbit hole of never-ending research. Instead, I've done that for you. I spent months interviewing lock company representatives and polling thousands of cyclists. What I found was that the number of people who had a quality lock actually defeated was small.

What I found was often people lost a bike because it wasn’t secured at all. A common theme was someone with commuter bikes having their bike walk away while they briefly popped into a store. Sometimes they were using a cable lock and sometimes they thought they'd be fast enough to go with nothing. There were also a lot of people who lost road bikes by leaving them unlocked in their home, garage, or a supposedly secure bike room. 

With those trends in mind, we’ve looked for the best bike lock we could find covering a wide range of different use scenarios. As you look through our list, keep those trends in mind but also make sure you think about your own preferences. You want to look for something that helps you feel secure even if that's more security than you might absolutely need. Above all else though, you need to look for something you find convenient and are going to use every time, even at home, no matter what. It should fit your budget, your style, and your particular use case.

Recent updates

This article was originally published in April 2022 and has been given significant regular updates since, in which our team of experts have added information, updated the product recommendations and more.  The latest update was performed in April 2024, so all the information is relevant and every product recommendation is available to buy as of this date. 

A balance of angle grinder resistance, weight, and price with a high quality frame mount.

Read more below 

Strong enough to resist everything but an angle grinder packaged with excellent pricing, lots of included keys, and an insurance offer. 

Functionally impossible to cut with an angle grinder but small enough to bring with you.

High security folding

Easier to carry and more flexible than a U-lock while still offering a high level of security.

A 10mm hardened steel chain with a Sold Secure Gold rating and the ability to wear it without locking it. This is the most convenient high security lock available.

Budget chain lock

Hardened steel 7mm four-sided chain links with included insurance and a killer price.

Read more below  

Best bike locks available today

You can trust Cyclingnews Our experts spend countless hours testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

A U-lock, or D-lock depending where you are reading from, is the easiest high security option to live with in a perfect world. That means if you have a bike with thin tubes, and something easy to lock to, they provide a high level of security for the price and are the easiest to transport. The challenge with this type of lock comes when you have unusual anchor points and bikes with large tubes.  

Best all-around bike lock

1. Litelok X1

Our expert review:

Specifications

Reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

Only a few years ago if you wanted high security it was all about how thick the shackle on a lock was. Options like the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit Mini and the Abus Granit XPlus 540 reigned supreme. In today’s world those types of locks offer little security in a world ruled by portable angle grinders. 

The Litelok X1 isn’t the most secure lock out there. It’s not even the most secure lock that Litelok offers. Instead it represents a balance of weight, price and security. This is a Sold Secure Diamond rated lock and I would consider it angle grinder proof even though that’s not technically true.  

What I mean is that I took an angle grinder to the Litelok X1 and I did manage to get through it. That said, I was using a more powerful plug in grinder and I shredded a cutting blade while cutting through one side of the lock. Like other quality locks though, there’s a double shackle. It takes a cut through each side to open the lock and I was only able to cut through one side before I needed a new blade. It’s not impossible that a thief would change blades but it’s highly unlikely, hence my reason for calling this angle grinder proof in practical terms.  

Aside from that feature, the Litelok X1 is your basic high-quality U-lock. There’s a silicone cover to protect the locking mechanism from the weather and a plastic coating that both slows a grinder and also protects the finish of your bike. The Litelok's coating includes a reflective strip, so there's bonus visibility when riding at night and you can buy replacement keys if you lose the two that are supplied. The lock is easy to place rattle-free in the included frame mount.

In terms of negatives, I have to admit I’m stretching here. This lock is hard to fault as long as you understand what it is. It's heavy and, even with that heft, it’s not impossible to cut it with a grinder. I didn’t list either of those as a negative though because that’s how it’s being marketed. I can’t really punish Litelok for making a very secure lock that’s not as secure as even heavier, and more expensive options. If you are looking for something light or super secure, this isn’t quite that lock. The Hiplok D1000 is more secure but also heavier. The Litelok is a balance. 

The one thing I do find lacking is that there’s no insurance offering. It’s incredibly hard to actually use the insurance that companies like Onguard and Kryptonite offer but it’s still nice to see it available. Litelok made a great lock; they should back up the security with included insurance. 

Best high security bike lock

2. Hiplok D1000

While the Litelok X1 is portable angle grinder resistant from a practical standpoint, the Hiplok D1000 is as close to angle grinder proof as you can get. When Micah Toll from EbikeSchool tested the D1000 with a grinder he gave up after trashing three blades and making it less than halfway through a single side of the lock. If you want absolute peace of mind for an expensive electric bike then this is the lock for you. 

Also, like the Litelok, this is a high quality lock besides the theft resistance. Despite being quite heavy, it is still portable. It’s also quite well built with a soft touch outer that definitely will not scratch a nice bike and a cover for the locking mechanism. If you lose your keys you won’t be able to cut the lock off but there is a replacement program. Similarly, if you start having issues with the lock cylinder, don’t risk it getting stuck. Stop using it and take advantage of the lifetime (defined as 10 years) warranty that covers normal wear and tear.   

As far as negatives go, the size and weight are the issues. Because of all the security this lock offers, the D1000 is a heavy lock. So heavy that Hiplok doesn’t think a frame mount will work and so there isn’t one. Also because of the weight, Hiplok doesn’t make the D1000 very big. As it is, the lock weighs 1.9kg / 4 lbs. 1.6 oz. and so in an effort to keep it from getting even heavier, the locking capacity is small. It’s difficult to use for more than a single frame tube and even with the already high price, you may need a second lock. 

You can read more details about this lock in our full Hiplok D1000 review .

Best medium security bike lock

3. Onguard 8003 Pitbull STD U-Lock

I used this lock for years and I used to call it the best all-around U-lock. It was never the most secure, or even the cheapest, but with a 14mm hardened steel shackle it was enough for most situations. A 14mm hardened steel shackle is thick enough that bolt cutters are going to be ineffective and it locks on both sides, requiring two cuts to break it free. Unfortunately, as mentioned, a high-security lock in today’s climate needs to take portable angle grinders into consideration and this one doesn’t. 

Not everyone needs the highest security level though. The Onguard Pitbull is the all-around kind of lock you can feel good using in slightly lower security situations. If you feel like an angle grinder isn’t going to be an issue for you, then this is a good lock at a decent price. The generous five keys included mean you can be less stressed with a lost key and the light on one key is a nice touch at this price level. The coating won’t scratch your bike and there’s a decent frame mount. There’s even a small insurance offer to make you feel a bit better.  

You’ll want to keep in mind that the suggested version here is the standard version and there's enough room inside for the frame and a wheel. That also means there’s a bit of extra room and that can make it easier to defeat with a pry bar. Again though, this isn’t the most secure option anyway and this size makes it easy to use. It would be better if there was a cover for the lock cylinder though, as it will eventually fail because of weather. 

Best budget U-lock

4. Abus Mini 410

If a product isn't the best, it should at least be cheap. I've been very intentional in putting a bottom floor on that concept here though. The Abus Mini 410 isn't high security but it is acceptable security. I wouldn't leave a bike for much time with only this lock but it's inexpensive and light enough that it's an easy option to bring along if you plan to briefly head into a store. For all the people I spoke to who had a bike stolen, this was because they weren’t going to be gone long. Don’t be that person, use this lock instead. 

The 12mm double shackle ensures that no one is going to cut the Abus Ultra mini with wire cutters. You could probably get through it with 36" bolt cutters, and maybe even 30" cutters given the right scenario, but either way that's still a lot more protection than a cable lock will ever give you. 

There are also quite a few variants of the Abus 410. The one I’ve included here is the basic Mini 410. It’s too small to lock more than just the frame but it’s less expensive. There are also options that include a cable lock for the front wheel or have a bigger space inside the lock. They are all the same 12mm double locking shackle so if this one is too small, pick whatever works for you. 

Folding Locks

Folding locks are less secure and more expensive than either chains or U-locks. What they bring to the table is an ease of use that’s hard to beat. They’ve got the flexibility of a chain and are as easy to carry as a U-lock. If security is your biggest concern then you’ll want to look at a different section but if you are willing to give up some security for convenience this is a good place to look. 

Best high security folding bike lock

5. Abus Bordo Granit 6500 Folding Lock

The Abus Bordo 6500 is the highest security folding lock around. It has both a Sold Secure Gold rating and Abus calls it a 15/15 security level thanks to the 5.5mm hardened steel bars and protected links. On top of that, the Lock Picking Lawyer is quite generous in his description of the lock core as being "ahead of the curve" in his video where he does go on to eventually open it. 

As with other folding locks though, it's not the security where the Abus 6500 shines. Cargo Bike magazine easily cuts it with a portable grinder and only a single cut is enough to open all folding locks. The trade off is that there's a lot more flexibility when using a folding lock. This is especially true when you are locking to a busy bike rack with lots of other people and not much room. The big links will look impressive enough to sway a thief towards a less protected target and this lock allows you to manoeuvre it between other bikes or reach farther to get the anchor. When it's time to carry it, you've got a bit less weight and all the weight is closer to the frame making the mount easier to use. 

As long as you understand the security available from this lock, it's a great option that's well made in almost every way. The one thing Abus seems to have overlooked is that the lock cylinder isn't protected from weather. If you live in a rainy climate you'll have to accept that eventually the internals may fail and require a replacement. 

Best smart folding bike lock

6. Abus Bordo 6500a Smart X

I've already been quite clear that folding locks are less secure in exchange for better ease of use. Abus has an answer to that criticism though. The Abus Bordo 6500a Smart X takes everything good about the standard Bordo 6500 and upgrades it with electronics. The result is a lock that's both more secure and more convenient. 

Instead of a key, the Bordo 6500a Smart X is a smart lock that relies on Bluetooth. The heart of the design retains the same series of 15.5cm long, and 5.5mm thick hardened steel bars. Each one connects to the next with a shielded joint and there's a rubberized coating to protect the finish of your bike. At the top though, you won't find a lock cylinder, not even for backup.

Instead of a key, there's an app. You have the choice to configure a manual unlock but otherwise as you walk up with your phone, the lock will open. It's all seamless and automatic. There are also the nice side benefits of being able to open the app and see where you parked your bike and being able to allow someone else to unlock the bike. On top of that added convenience, there's also the added security of a 110db alarm built in. Should someone try to tamper with the lock an alarm might not stop them but it might and it certainly doesn't hurt. 

The only thing I'd like to see added is a key slot for backup purposes. In my testing the whole system worked every time but it seems odd to offer no emergency unlock option. It's also worth noting that you do pay extra for the convenience of the smart system. 

You can read more details in my full Abus Bordo 6500A SmartX lock review .

Best medium security folding bike lock

7. Kryptonite KryptoLok 610 S

How much security do you really need? In many situations as long as you use a quality lock then you will be safe. If that already sums up your thoughts then shouldn't your folding lock be easy to carry? The Kryptonite 610s is a counter to the Abus folding lock options. While those locks have a design aimed at high security, Kryptonite is very clear that the 610s will work for quick stops in metro areas or suburbs and longer lockups only in rural areas. 

If that's enough for you then you get a lower price and even more convenient option. The link bars are 5mm, instead of 5.5mm, saving you almost 600 grams. The lock is also longer and narrower which, again, adds to the ease of carrying, while rotation where the bars connect to the lock means it has a ton more flexibility in how you use the lock as well. 

Another thing I really love about Kryptonite locks with better security is that the brand is willing to back that up. Should your bike end up getting stolen, there is an opt-in insurance program that could pay you back a bit of money. These programs are always hard to take advantage of, but it feels like a mark of respect for the customer that it even exists. Unfortunately there's nothing to help you when the lock cylinder eventually stops working because there's no weather cover for it. You also aren't getting a budget price for this lock despite the lower security. 

Best low security bike lock

8. Hiplok Z Lok Combo

If there's a lock that exemplifies why I don't have a cable lock included in this list, this is it. The Hiplok Z Lok Combo offers about the same security but it's far smaller and cheaper. Any attack with a tool would easily cut through the steel band, just like a cable lock, but you can carry this in a jersey pocket and it's there when you need it.

That means for most situations, I don't recommend this lock. If you've got any kind of bike where it makes sense to attach something to the frame, grab an inexpensive U-lock or folding lock and use that instead. The place where this lock shines is on a bike where you aren't going to put it on the frame and you really aren't going to leave the bike alone. Thieves are incredibly fast and good at what they do and this lock is just enough to keep someone from quietly walking away with your bike while you look at it. It's great at a coffee shop where you might even be within reach of your bike, but this way you can relax enough to enjoy your coffee. 

When you are going to be close to your bike anyway but want to make sure it doesn't disappear from under your nose, grab the Hiplok Z Lok Combo. Although It’s not a folding lock we’ve included it in this section because it also trades security for convenience.

Chain locks

Chain locks are as secure as U-locks, if they are as thick, but they have extra flexibility. If you’ve got a frame that’s extra thick, like an ebike, or if you need to attach to thicker anchors, that’s where chains shine. The downside is that they are heavier and more difficult to carry than both a U-lock and a folding lock.  

9. Hiplok Gold Chain Lock

Chains are great because it still takes two cuts to defeat them, like a U-lock, but they are also very flexible and easy to lock up. The most difficult part of dealing with a chain is that they are big and heavy. It's never convenient to put one on a bike so it's common to wrap them around your waist. That solution works but it's not very safe. 

Hiplok has an answer though. The brand is well known for making locks you can wear safely. The Hiplok Gold is a 10mm chain weighing in at a hefty 2,274 grams but it's got a system that turns it into a belt without locking. Instead, there's a bar on the lock side and a plastic buckle that snaps into the bar on the other side. When you are ready to lock a bike, take it off your waist, open the lock, and connect the lock to the chain that's on the other side of the waist bracket. The superbright version pictured here also adds visibility while riding. 

Not only is the 10mm chain quite secure but it's convenient and safe. If you need to lock something up that isn't easy with a U-lock, this is your answer. The only downside is all that security does mean you've got to deal with a bit of weight. Wearing it mitigates that to some extent but the weight doesn't disappear and you'll notice it. The reflective cover will also degrade over time. It looks great when new, and it's incredibly bright, but I've had a number of products with that coating and eventually they all start to flake. You’ll want to consider that if you like the look of it. You can read more details in my full Hiplok Gold bike lock review .

Best higher security bike lock for using with a car rack

10. Abus City Chain 1010

When I talked to cyclists who had bikes stolen while locked there was one story that stood out: a brand-new bike stolen off a rack while filling up gas on the way home. The integrated cable lock on the rack got clipped while the owner was inside buying a snack. For me it was confirmation of a scenario I'd already worried about in the past. It was also a challenge. What would be the best solution in this scenario?

Having spent time studying the design of racks and the needs, my thought is that you need something longer than normal and it has to be quick to get on. The Abus CityChain 1010 is what I ended up settling on. It's fast to get on because it's got a fabric cover that means you won't scratch your frame. Most chain locks have that feature but it's important here because you don't want to spend a bunch of time carefully placing a chain just to go pay for gas. It's worth saying though, you shouldn't drive with the lock on. 

The Abus CityChain 1010 is also a good choice for locking to the rack on your car because at 140cm it's longer than many options out there. That's important because unlike most locking situations, both the bike and the anchor are immovable. You can't move the bike into position to make a smaller chain work. 

If you are driving any distance, it's likely you will stop for food as well as gas. If that's the case, the 9mm links are enough to stop a lot of attacks. Larger bolt cutters, and pry bars, are still an issue but you can probably get some food and come back to a bike. It's also nice to see a protected lock cylinder even if this use case won't see it sitting in the rain for long periods of time. 

You can read more details in the full Abus City Chain 1010 lock review .

Best budget bike chain lock

11. Kryptonite Keeper 785

I prefer high security in a bike lock. Even my city bike is worth more than enough that I don't relish the idea of replacing it. Instead of worrying, I'd rather go for more security. That said, I also live in an urban area and bike theft is common in a bike city like Portland Oregon. In each section I like to include an option for those who don't need much security. Although I recommend not under-sizing your security, you might not need the highest. If that's where you find yourself, Kryptonite Keeper 785 is your answer. 

The Keeper 785 is an inexpensive option for lower security situations. The sides of each link use a square profile that helps resist bolt cutters even though 7mm still falls within what’s possible for the right bolt cutters. Nylon covers protect your bike's paint and 85 cm / 33.5 in length makes it easy to lock up both wheels and accessories. There's also a Key Safe Program if you lose a key and, like other Kryptonite products there is an insurance program of, in this case $500 if you do lose a bike while using the lock. 

While this isn't the most secure lock out there, it's inexpensive and still offers decent protection. Make sure you keep the lock away from the ground and wrapped securely to help up the security level and for some that will be enough. The only criticism I have is the lack of a cover for the key hole. It seems to be a common mis-step but not everyone needs the highest security and not everyone needs to worry about rain. 

How to choose the best bike lock for you

When I write a buyer's guide I endeavour to become an expert if I'm not already. I share what works and what doesn't and I get to look at every product in a category to help draw those conclusions. The problem with doing that for the best bike lock is that I'm not a bike thief and there's no real way for me to become an expert on bike theft. With that in mind, I took a different approach to this section of this buyer's guide. 

While I spent time with every lock here, I also reached out to law enforcement and talked to as many people who experienced bike theft as possible. I pulled together that communal knowledge of having a bike stolen and formed that into questions and answers to help inform you on how to keep your bike safe and what locks to buy.

How are bikes being stolen?

When you think about protecting with the best bike locks it's important to have an understanding of how bikes are being stolen. You can't protect against every attack in every situation so understanding what you need to worry about is step one. To that end I did a lot of research to try and understand the issue and present options that cover the bases. Keep in mind it's constantly evolving and it's not as well studied as we'd like it to be. Here's what I found though. 

The most obvious tools are bolt cutters. They are inexpensive and low tech as well as silent and easy to hide. They've been around for a long time as a tool of choice but they are actually beginning to see less use. 

The biggest reason that bolt cutters are seeing less use is the rise of inexpensive portable angle grinders. Bolt cutters are most effective against very low security U lock designs, chains, and cable locks. Given that medium security U locks are the most used type of lock it makes sense to invest a little money into an easy to carry angle grinder. They are just as effective against a cable lock and very fast at handling higher security options as well. 

The other common tool in use is a breaker bar of some kind. Something like a steel pipe is common but really anything that's long enough to give leverage is ripe for use. The technique is to jam it into a lock and take advantage of the leverage to twist until it breaks open. 

One attack method you might notice missing from this list is lock picking. If you are researching locks, you've no doubt stumbled on demonstrations of lock picking but the reality is that it's not a common attack method. It's a skill that requires a lot of technique and there are much easier ways to steal a bike. The people I interviewed to find out how bikes were being stolen were very clear that this was interesting to watch but uncommon in practice. 

What is the right type of bike lock?

Deciding what type of lock you buy is all about understanding how bikes are being stolen then applying that to your situation. What level of risk are you willing to take on? What situation are you defending against and what is going to work for you? Through all of my research the number one thing that continued to come up was that the large majority of bikes stolen weren't locked at all. That means it might be less important to worry about ultimate security as it is to worry about what you will use all the time. Here's some info to help make the decision though. 

The most common choice for medium, or high, security is a U lock. They are very secure, very easy to carry, and there are a lot of choices across a wide range of price points. One of the biggest challenges with chain locks is the size. They are already heavy and a smaller lock will be more secure but they don't have much extra room to accommodate larger anchor objects. U locks are most effective when you have access to a bike rack to lock against. The one important caveat when choosing a U lock is to always look for a double shackle. You want it to lock both sides of the U so that it takes two cuts to free the bike. 

The second most common option for security is a chain. Chains tend to be more secure for less money. They are also more secure against angle grinders because they are hard to hold still. They are less secure against bolt cutters because individual links often don't match the diameter of a U lock. They tend to be bigger and heavier than a U lock design and carrying them can be more difficult. Where they excel is in their flexibility. If you need to lock your bike to a sign post or any kind of non-standard anchor, chains can do it for you. 

Another common locking solution is a folding lock. Folding locks are less secure than chains or U locks because they've got a lot of pieces that allow for attack vectors. Quality folding locks do their best to protect the hinges but there will always be vulnerability there. The wide hardened steel makes them difficult to cut with bolt cutters so it's not like they are pushovers and they are convenient. They can be flexible enough for non-standard anchors and they are easier to carry than other options. 

Remember, don't get too caught up on the details of what lock is technically more secure. The Los Angeles Police Department summarized it nicely when it said " Many bikes that are stolen are NOT secured" and that's what I also found when polling cyclists. Find a lock that you are going to use every single time and you've already got a huge leg up.  

How are bike locks rated?

In the UK, Sold Secure is an independent testing organisation. Lock makers submit samples of their locks to Sold Secure, who then use a variety of methods to try to break them. They talk to the police to identify trends in bike theft methods and any novel approaches are incorporated into their test protocols.

Sold Secure will rate a lock on four levels from Bronze through to Diamond on the strength of protection it affords and lock brands will show the rating on the packaging for their locks. A very low security lock might be unrated.

What is the difference between a U lock and a D lock?

U locks and D locks are the same thing. They are both named in relation to their shape. Without the brace fitted, the shape resembles that of the letter U, and when the brace is fitted, it resembles a letter D. The term 'U lock' is widely adopted in the USA, while D lock is used more in the UK.

Why is there no cable lock on this list?

Chains, U locks, folding locks, why not cable locks? There are a lot of cable locks sold in the world so why don't we have any on this list? The easiest answer to that is that they aren't secure. Cable locks use steel cables not hardened steel. Cutting them is so trivial and so fast that they only provide the most minimal protection. When I polled cyclists who’d had a lock defeated it was almost universally a cable lock. In most of those situations they understood the low security but they thought it would be enough for a quick stop and it wasn’t. You can defeat other types of locks too but not as fast and not without making noise. 

That only partially answers the question though. Not everyone needs a high security solution all the time. There are plenty of situations where covering theft of opportunity, what you might call walk away theft, is more than enough security. Think about a long ride with a snack stop far away from the city. In those situations, you might get away with a low security option but there are better low security options. You can come close to matching the price of a cable lock and you can find options that are easier to carry while offering similar security. 

Are key or combination bike locks better?

The two most common locking methods utilise either a key or a combination. Both have their merits, and both have their pitfalls. 

A combination lock can be susceptible to prying eyes. If the wrong person knows your combination, expect your steed to bolt from the stable. At the cheaper end of the market, a combination lock can be hacked without the need for tools. 

A key lock can be less prone to compromise, however, if ever you leave your keys on the train, you could be left having to 'steal' your own bike from the station. 

No matter the variant, bike locks are like front door mechanisms: they work on the principle of very close mechanical tolerances and don’t enjoy too much water or environmental contaminant ingress, which can lead to rust or jamming. 

The best bike locks have weather-proof covers which protect the keyhole, but all bike locks can benefit from similar care to what you’d apply to any drivetrain chain or suspension stanchion in terms of preventative maintenance. Clean, dry and lube them – for longevity and frustration-free locking performance.

How to lock your bike

I wrote a full article about how to lock a bike and there's more detail there. What's important to understand in this context is that you want to limit extra space between the lock and the bike. You also want to keep the lock farther from the ground. These small changes in how you use the chosen lock will make it more secure. Keeping the lock farther from the ground makes it more difficult to use the ground as leverage on a bolt cutter. Limiting extra space between the lock and the bike means it's more difficult to get a tool positioned for a leverage attack. 

What about insurance?

Some bike locks come packaged with insurance offers. These are nice for peace of mind but there's a few details you should be careful about. The biggest thing to remember is that these are insurance offers and that means they are very specific. There is no wiggle room for not quite meeting some requirements. Make sure you follow the instructions exactly. In the case of both Kryptonite and Onguard that means you need to have registered at the time you bought the lock so make sure you start there. 

Another good option for insurance is to add your own bike specific insurance and we have an article covering the best bike insurance . More coverage is better than less so doubling up won’t hurt. 

Make sure you register your bike

While you are following the directions for registering your new lock, make sure you also register your bike. Bike Index is a US non-profit that works to register bikes then helps with recovery if something happens; in the UK Bike Register and in Australia the National Bike Register provide a similar service. There's no guarantee of anything but they are doing amazing work and it doesn't hurt. 

If a bike goes missing you can access a community of people who will keep their eyes open and help you recover it. It's also a great opportunity to record the serial number of your bike and make sure you have it on hand. If law enforcement happens to recover a bike it will only come back to you if you've filed a police report and given them a serial number.  

You can also have your bike indelibly marked, which helps to deter theft and makes identification easier if your bike is stolen then recovered by the police or others. It's part of the Bike Register service in the UK and some police forces will occasionally have free registration campaigns.

Consider a bike tracker

If your bike does get stolen, it's rare that you'll recover it. You can increase your chances by hiding a bike tracker somewhere in your bike. The best bike trackers include passive devices like an Apple Air Tag or Tile sticker, which rely on proximity to a Bluetooth-enabled phone. 

There are also GPS-enabled devices that will broadcast their location over a mobile network, although you'll need to pay a recurring subscription for these.

How we tested the best bike locks

There is no perfect solution to bike theft. Particularly with the continued prevalence of portable angle grinders, every lock is vulnerable. With the exception of the Litelok X1 I haven't taken an angle grinder to these locks because I know without a doubt that it's possible to cut them. The Litelok is the exception because the technology rides on the ability to resist an angle grinder so I decided to see how it worked. There’s also a lot of people who have tried to cut the Hiplok D1000 so I’ve seen that demonstrated both personally and via plenty of videos. 

The other thing I didn’t try was cutting locks with bolt cutters. Bolt cutters will defeat locks but it’s dependent on the size of the tool and the size of the lock. There’s no testing to be done because it’s a mechanical fact with no room for error. Instead, what I’ve done is put these locks to the test from the standpoint of usability and helped set expectations. Locks that are low security are listed as such and everything here is a quality option that will work as expected. 

Third party testing organisations such as Sold Secure will be much better at testing security as well, so their rating is a good indication to follow.

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Josh hails from the Pacific Northwest of the United States but would prefer riding through the desert than the rain. He will happily talk for hours about the minutiae of cycling tech but also has an understanding that most people just want things to work. He is a road cyclist at heart and doesn't care much if those roads are paved, dirt, or digital. Although he rarely races, if you ask him to ride from sunrise to sunset the answer will be yes. Height: 5'9" Weight: 140 lb. Rides: Salsa Warbird, Cannondale CAAD9, Enve Melee, Look 795 Blade RS, Priority Continuum Onyx

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Tough Bike Locks: It's your bike, keep it that way. From basic locks to more advanced u-lock protection, we offer locks that provide you with peace of mind.

What is a Lockout Fork on a Mountain Bike: Why it’s Nice!

When I heard that I could use a Lockout to stop my front suspension from compressing with ease, my first question was… Why do rigid bikes even exist then? This article is to help explain what the purpose of a lockout fork is and why you might want one.

What is a Lockout Suspension on a Mountain Bike Fork?

A lockout is a small switch placed atop the front right stanchion of your mountain bike’s suspension which when engaged decreases the low speed compression rate of the front fork, adjustable to the point of being fully rigid. This switch can also be routed to the handle bar.

What is the Advantage of Having a Lockout Suspension on a Mountain Bike?

To explain the advantage of having a lockout suspension, first, the difference between a full suspension mountain bike and a hardtail mountain bike must be made clear. Both styles of mountain bike have their purposes and therefore advantages and disadvantages.

A full suspension mountain bike is a mountain bike that is equipped with both front and rear suspension systems. A mountain bike equipped with only a front suspension system would be called a front suspension mountain bike and can also benefit from the use of a lockout. In either case the advantage of having a suspension system is that it will absorb energy when riding downhill and generally will make the experience more comfortable.

Mountain Biking Pro Tip: Make turning the front fork lock out ON whenever switching from rough tails to smooth surfaces. More of your energy will be applied to moving the bike forward.

The disadvantage to having a full suspension (or front suspension) is that when riding the mountain bike on pavement or uphill there is a great deal of energy that is being absorbed by the suspension. This can make it much more difficult to scale steep inclines or get up to speed easily.

A hardtail mountain bike is a mountain bike that is neither equipped with a front suspension or a rear suspension. The advantage of not having any suspension systems equipped on a mountain bike is that you will get unparalleled responsiveness out of the pedals. No energy is being absorbed by the suspension so it is all going into the trail. This is good for uphill and level terrain.

The disadvantage , then, is that a hardtail mountain bike will not be particularly comfortable to ride if the terrain is at all uneven and will be especially difficult to withstand when going downhill. Any sort of drops will be extremely punishing and large drops are almost impossible to land. Without the only good use for a mountain bike is as a road bike unless you are a particularly experienced rider.

It would seem then that if you want to ride on a wide range of terrains and inclines (or declines) then it is necessary to either put up with a difficult and punishing experience half the time or buy two bikes. Of course, neither of these options seem attractive to either your body or your wallet. It is for this exact reason that the lockout fork was invented.

With a lockout fork a full suspension system can be utilized when riding downhill and on rough terrain. With the flip of a single switch the suspension can be made more rigid for riding uphill or on pavement. Additionally, with newer lockout systems by both Rockshox and Fox are adjustable to the tune of three different levels of lockout. An option which does not decrease the low speed compression rate at all, a middle option which simply makes the compression more rigid, and a fully-locked out mode which eliminates travel all together.

Fox Factory is the patent holder for the “Lock-out” technology. Interesting to read all about the science and innovation – HERE

The Difference Between a Compression (Lockout) and Rebound Suspension Adjustment on a Mountain Bike

Mountain bike suspension manufacturers offer two ways to adjust the compression rate of your suspension. The first is to adjust the low speed compression rate which affects the speed of compression on the mountain bike. The other is a rebound adjustment which affects the rate of decompression of the mountain bike’s suspension.

Both manufactures Rockshox and Fox use the color blue to denote the compression adjusting dial. Additionally, it is placed on the top of the stanchion. Again, both manufactures are in line with the rebound adjusting dial as they both use red to denote it. It is at this point where the manufactures begin to differentiate themselves.

For their compression dial Rockshox has a directional indicator for each option. Open being the farthest left, adjusted compression being in the middle, and fully-locked being the farthest right. The compression dial made by Fox also had a directional indicator, although, they have labeled the adjustments as open, medium, and firm.

The rebound dial on the Rockshox is conveniently labeled with a tortoise and a jackalope to indicate the directionality of the dial. The farther towards the jackalope the quicker the shock will decompress. The rebound dial on the Fox is a bit more complicated as it initially seems counterintuitive. It is labeled with a plus and a minus which indicate the amount of rebound suppression that is applied. The plus means more suppression; therefore, the shock will be slower to rebound. The minus means less suppression; which indicates a faster rebound.

Suspension is Fun to Talk About

• Mountain Bike Travel – Read What is Travel on a MTB and is More Better?
• What is Lockout on a Mountain Bike Fork – all about when to use it.
• Selecting a MTB fork is confusing, let me help with – C hoosing a Mountain Bike Suspension Fork
• Wheels and Hub widths – Why is this so confusing? Read – How to Adapt a MTB Wheel to a Boost Fork

What is a Remote Lockout System on a Mountain Bike?

A remote lockout system is a lockout fork which can be controlled by a dial placed upon the handlebar of the mountain bike. The advantage of a remote lockout system is that it isn’t necessary to get off of the bike to engage the lock. On a variety trail, with lots of ups and downs, this can be really helpful. These can even be installed for rear shock lockouts.

Is a Rear-Lockout System on a Mountain Bike Useful?

On a full suspension mountain bike there is, of course, not only a front fork but also a rear shock. Just like on the stanchion of the front fork a lockout can be applied, a rear shock can also have a lockout capability. These lockouts also utilize a three-step dial to adjust the low speed compression and a rebound adjustment.

Unlike the lockout on the front fork the lockout on the rear shock can sometimes inhibit hill climbing on rough terrain. Overall, a rigid rear shock doesn’t greatly improve the experience of riding on pavement or uphill. This is due to the rear shock mostly absorbing high speed impact energy.

How a Lockout and Rebound Adjustment Works on a Mountain Bike

The lockout and rebound systems work by using pressurized oil to change the speed of compression and decompression. A completely disengaged lockout will allow the oil to flow quickly through the chamber while a fully-locked suspension will completely restrict the flow of the oil. The same goes for the rebound system although instead of using positive pressure uses negative pressure to affect the decompression rate.

Do Real Riders Actually use a Lockout Suspension?

While a lockout suspension, on paper, seems to be an amazing invention it does cost some money, so if it is not really worth it then I understand why most riders might not look for it on the next bike they buy. So, to answer this question I looked through one of the most popular mountain biking forums about lockout suspensions and surveyed the results.

Here is a count of how many riders actually use their lockout.

It seems then that there is an almost even divide between people who do use it and people who do not. At first this confused me but after reading further into the post on this forum it became clear to me why so many people weren’t taking advantage of their lockouts.

For many people the number one problem with using their lockout on their mountain bike is that they forget to turn it off. This of course can be a problem if it is engaged during a rough decent and even worse if there are a few drops along the way. And while the immediate reaction of many people may be that this is completely the fault of the rider, it is something that many people experience and so if you think you might be one of these people then maybe a lockout will not be useful for you.

The second most common complaint about the lockout is that the rider didn’t notice much of a difference no matter how the lockout was adjusted. It is true that if you have a mountain bike with a low travel distance in the first place then a lockout might not offer you a great deal of improvement in regard to power transfer into the trail.

But, interestingly enough there was one constant sentiment expressed by the riders on this forum and that was the fact that a lockout is much more useful when it has a remote dial that can be switched from the handlebars. It seems that the inconvenience of having to stop riding and get off the bike to adjust the suspension discourages most riders from caring enough about their riding comfortably to actually use it.

The conclusion I came to, then, is that to make the price of a lockout on a mountain bike justifiable there are a few conditions that must be met. First, you must get a remote lockout. Secondly, unless you ride in an area where there is a lot of different terrains and inclines then a lockout might not be very useful. Lastly, to justify a lockout the rider must care about the comfortability of their experience and not simply just power through every tough climb and probably doesn’t like to switch gears often either.

Do Lockouts and Rebound Adjustment Replace Hardtail Mountain Bikes?

The short answer is… No. Every style of mountain bike has its purpose and has been manufactured specifically for a certain purpose. A full suspension mountain bike is made for rough, tough, terrain.

A hardtail is made for uphill climbs and smooth flat trails. Yes, a lockout can definitely mimic the feeling of a hardtail but there are some big differences between them. A suspension system adds weight to the bike and also adds parts that need to be repaired and maintained.

However, a full suspension with a lockout system and a rebound adjustment dial is possible the best form of downhill trail bike. It’s great at what it is meant for but can still help you out when you’re going uphill or riding on pavement.

Learning about Mountain Bike Tires could take years. Let me help you just a bit quicker with some articles.

• Can a tire be great for both street and trail? – Find out in this article: Best MTB Tire for Street and Trail
• Are 26 inch Tires Dead? Heck no…Read – Who is a 26 inch MTB For
• Love playing in MUD – Read What tire is recommended – Mountain Bike Tires for Muddy Conditions
• Rocks can destroy a mountain bike tire – Find the Best MTB Tire for Rocky Conditions (PRO RECOMMENDED)
• Thinking about getting a 26 inch MTB let me help – Should I Get a 26 Inch Mountain Bike?
• Does sand slow you down? It might be you’ve got the wrong tires. Read – The Best MTB Tires for the Sand

David Humphries is the creator of DIY Mountain Bike. For me a relaxing day involves riding my mountain bike to decompress after a long day. When not on my bike I can be found wrenching on it or making YouTube videos at 👉 DIY Mountain Bike Read more about David HERE .

Looking for more How To MTB articles? Click -> HERE

Mountain Bike Suspension Lockout (Ultimate Beginner’s Guide)

Suspension is the biggest component differentiating mountain bikes from road bikes. A fork and shock soak up bumpy terrain and make it smooth…well, a little smoother at least. Nevertheless, you’ve probably noticed that mountain bike suspension also has a lockout feature. But what is it even for, and why would you ever use it?

Lockout effectively eliminates pedal bob –the side effect of riding a bike with suspension. This will improve pedaling efficiency, and while it shouldn’t be used on rough trails (especially when going downhill!), it will provide a firmer platform for pedaling uphill or on smooth, flat terrain.

While locking out your suspension certainly isn’t necessary, I’ve only done it a handful of times at most in the last year, I’ll break down where a full or partial lockout may benefit your riding performance. 

What is Suspension Lockout on a Mountain Bike?

For starters, let’s define what we’re talking about here.

The maximum amount a bike’s fork and shock can compress is called travel (expressed in mm). This compression – as well as the speed at which the suspension rebounds after compressing – is controlled by the flow of oil inside the suspension. 

Yes, even though you add or subtract air to adjust your fork and shock sag, they both contain oil as well.  

Increasing the flow of oil within the suspension increases its travel. Reducing the flow of oil decreases travel. This adjustment is made via the compression lever on the fork and shock (which is typically blue but depends on the brand).  

When you fully restrict the flow of oil, the fork or shock effectively become locked out, meaning they will not compress. Even with the oil fully restricted, however, the suspension will still have a little give to it; in other words, a mountain bike will never be as rigid as a road or gravel bike.

How to Use Suspension Lockout on a Mountain Bike

If you want to lock out your fork or shock, simply turn the compression lever to the fully closed position. For most forks, this means turning the dial on the right fork leg clockwise . A fork will have many adjustment points, allowing you to reduce its travel incrementally depending on the terrain you’re riding.

Most shocks have a three-position switch, with Open, Mid, and Firm (Locked Out) designations. 

When Should You Lock Out Mountain Bike Suspension?

The only time you should fully lock out your fork is when riding on smooth terrain or climbing long fire roads to get to the trails you want to ride. Suspension plays an important role in keeping your tires in contact with the ground on rough terrain, even when climbing. Without tire contact, you have no traction!

On flatter terrain or trails that require a lot of climbing, you could consider firming up your fork rather than locking it out (by turning the compression dial to the midway point). This will help reduce pedal bob and make you more efficient while still allowing your tires to roll over bumps and other obstacles smoothly. 

If you have a longer-travel bike (150mm or greater), firming up the fork for jump trails could keep your suspension from compressing too much on the takeoff. If you’ve ever watched new riders unsuccessfully hit jumps, you may notice their fork nosedive as they ride up the lip of a jump. This is an indicator of poor body position and could send them over the bars!

Running your fork in the mid-range on a longer-travel bike will also just make it more efficient in general when riding trails that aren’t as challenging. I live in Florida – where things are pretty flat everywhere – and I ride a 130mm travel trail bike. If I had a longer-travel bike, I would spend most of the time riding with my fork in the mid-range; because you just don’t need all that travel here!

Similar to the fork, there are few times you’d want to run your shock fully locked out. There are plenty of times you may want to put it in the mid-position though.

In addition to all the reasons above, one additional reason you would want to run your shock in the mid-range would be to prevent pedal strikes on technical climbs. If your climbs have roots, rocks or other obstacles that are just waiting to snag your pedals, setting your shock in the mid-position lets the bike ride higher in its travel and avoid those pedal strikes.

Nothing will grind you to a halt on a climb quite like smashing your pedal–or even worse, your foot–against a big rock or root. 

For more information about how to use compression adjustments to get the most out of your riding, check out the below video:

Do You Need Suspension Lockout?

To be perfectly honest, there are very few times where completely locking out your fork would really improve your riding performance. If you do find yourself using lockout a lot, maybe you don’t even need a mountain bike for the kinds of trails you’re riding: a gravel bike may be a better, more efficient option.

Mountain bike suspension is designed to increase traction on very rough terrain. Lockout reduces traction. Without suspension, your tires won’t be able to stay in contact with the ground. Instead, they’ll be pinging off obstacles and jostling you all over the trail. 

If you want to see for yourself, conduct a little experiment the next time you ride. Choose a trail you know well (preferably an easy one) and ride it twice: once with your suspension open, and once with it locked out. You should notice a huge difference in performance, traction…and comfort.

If you want to improve pedaling performance, firming up your fork and shock a bit by moving the compression lever to the mid-range will provide a superior balance of pedaling efficiency, traction and stability over bumps. After all, riding over obstacles is why you bought a mountain bike in the first place!

Suspension Lockout Not Working? (How to Fix It)

If you engage the lockout lever on your fork or shock and it doesn’t firm up your suspension, there could be a few reasons why: some can be tackled at home, while others may require a trip to the bike shop (unless you’re a professional bike mechanic…or just like the challenge of fixing things yourself!)

Misaligned Compression Lever

If your fork won’t lock out, the first thing to check would be the compression lever itself. The following steps can correct this minor issue:

• Remove blue compression lever by removing the small allen bolt on top
• Remove spring and top gear underneath compression lever
• Hand tighten hex bolt clockwise until it won’t turn any further
• Replace gear, ensuring it lines up with fixed gear attached to fork leg
• Replace spring
• Replace compression lever, ensuring it is aligned in lockout position before tightening allen bolt

This last point is important! If you don’t replace the lever in the lockout position, it will throw off the ability to adjust the compression. I took my fork apart like this and it took at least 10 tries to get it back to working like it did before I messed with it. Ahh, the things I do for you, the reader…  

Please Note: This is how I made adjustments to my Fox fork. If your bike has a different brand fork, consult the manufacturer’s website for more information before you go taking things apart! And if in doubt, seek help from an expert at your local bike shop.

Remote Lockout Switch: Not Enough Cable Tension 

If your bike has one of those fancy remote suspension lockout switches on the handlebar (this is usually found on XC-style bikes), there may not be enough cable tension for the remote lever to engage the suspension.

You can adjust this via the cable tension adjustment screw on the fork’s right leg:

• Use an allen wrench to loosen the small cable tension screw (not the screw in the center of the fork leg)
• Pull more of the remote cable through the compression lever and hold it there
• Retighten the cable tension screw 

If this doesn’t quite fix it, you may need to adjust the preload screw as well:

• Repeat steps 1-2 above
• Before tightening the cable tension screw, use an allen wrench to turn and hold the preload screw (in the center of the fork leg) all the way clockwise
• While holding it in this position, retighten the cable tension screw (it helps to have a partner do this)

This should fix the issue.

Below is a decent video of the steps above that will at least give you a visualization of what I’m talking about!

This is the most likely cause of a compression adjustment issue with your fork or shock. Unfortunately, it’s also the hardest to fix for the ameteur garage mechanic.

If your suspension has an oil leak, you won’t be able to adjust the flow of oil through the chamber and alter the compression rate because the oil pressure is too low. 

Fixing this is beyond my own abilities, so I would strongly recommend taking your bike to a qualified mechanic to repair this issue.

Suspension Lockout: Use it Sparingly!

While a lockout feature on a mountain bike certainly isn’t necessary, there are a few situations where it may come in handy. The adjustment points in between Open and Lockout are nice to have though! You’ll find yourself using those more frequently. 

For most of your riding, just leave your suspension in the open position and let it do its thing! It’s there to make your rides smoother and more comfortable. If you ever try riding a rigid bike down your favorite trails, you’ll definitely appreciate your mountain bike’s suspension that much more!

Rob Marlowe

With years of experience as a dedicated mountain biker and an unwavering passion for research, I have cultivated a deep expertise in all facets of cycling—from the intricacies of bike mechanics and gear optimization to the subtleties of riding techniques. My journey has been one of continuous learning, driven by countless hours delving into the science and art of biking. It's this wealth of knowledge and practical know-how that I aim to impart, offering a trusted resource for novices to gain their footing and for seasoned riders to refine their skills and push their limits.

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Bike locks: How do I choose the right one?! The ultimate guide.

Complete guide for choosing the right lock. Overview of what are the different lock types with pros and cons to each and tips on how to make the right decision.

First of all: with enough time and the right tools, ALL bike locks can be beaten. Questions are: How secure do you really need your lock to be? Where is the borderline between secure and practical? And how much should you pay for such a piece?

• Choosing the appropriate level of SECURITY
• Choosing the right type of lock

Chain Locks

Folding locks, innovative locks, ...second lock, further protection....

Choosing the right lock gets surprisingly confusing, once you decide to make it a conscientious choice. There’s always a possibility of “just buying something and see”, but 400.000 Dutch bikers losing their rides each year would probably advise you otherwise. But then, how are you supposed to choose? Should you look for some specific brand? Or type of lock? How much should you invest? Add all individual circumstances (cheap vs expensive bike, place of parking the bike etc) and it gets quite overwhelming.

We’ll help you battle the task down into simpler steps. Let’s set the priorities:

• Choose the minimum security level you will need. That’s what you need – to secure your bike – right? So let’s decide on this one first.
• Choose the type of the lock that suits your budget and needs. There are more things to consider, such as price or convenience, and those usually offset one another, so let’s do that next. This way you do not compromise on your bike’s security, but also don’t pay more than needed.
• Find the exact lock . By now the choice is now quite narrow, so it’s time to pick your favourite one.

Good locks can get pricey. But as it usually is, not all expensive locks are also the best.

1. Choosing the appropriate level of SECURITY

95% of bikes are stolen by “opportunity thieves” – unorganised opportunists who see a an easy chance to make some extra money on outstandingly poorly locked bikes of all qualities (usually no matter if the bike is old or ugly). Weapon of choice of such thieves: bolt cutters. Other easily available and most used tools are hammers, simple saws or even bare hands. You wouldn’t believe how many bikes can be just wiggled free or carried away. However, once you pick a decent lock (and lock the bike properly ), bolt cutters are the strongest weapon of opportunists your lock will face.

Thus, in 95% of cases, the ultimate battle is bolt cutters versus bike locks .

Pliers vs lock

This of course doesn’t apply in case you own a superb bike which may attract attention of professional criminals with advanced tools. Such bikes should NEVER stand unguarded on the street for a longer period of time – we do not know of any bike lock that would resist a couple minute’s work with a portable angle grinder (which makes noise, sparks etc., so again, proper locking technique can increase your chances, but unless you happen to pick an awesome parking spot somewhere in the village of Peaceland, above-average bikes should always be stored out of sight).

EVERY lock can be beaten, although the difficulty matters. So choose wisely and lock smart.

Keeping this in mind, to get at least some level of security the question to ask is: would your lock resist a bolt cutter attack? There are couple factors to the answer (bolt cutters size, material of the lock, shape of the critical part etc), but by the rule of thumb, you can say the thickness is the key. You should always aim aim for is somewhere above 13 mm – locks of that size are already very hard to beat by bolt cutters. Sweet spot is 15 mm and more – thieves already need pro tools to break such locks, which means they will make quite some commotion that attracts attention.

Simplifications aside, given all the possibilities (materials, thickness, lock types) and all ways to destroy a lock,  the best way to check the real security level of a lock would be to buy them all, test them in a laboratory setting, and compare the results . Luckily, you don’t have to do that, there are organizations doing this work for us. The best known are Stichting ART and Sold Secure.

ART is a Dutch organization and European market is full of locks tested by them. Sold Secure is a British non-for-profit for a change, and is more focused on British and North American market. (Although with today’s commerce the borders do not really exist anymore. Right? ? Rankings are easy to understand –  ART  uses a scale of 1-5 stars where 5 stars are the most secure, 2 star rating is supposed to be sufficient protection for bicycles (we agree only partly, but later about that).

Notice the stars on the left side of the badge.

Sold Secure , on the other hand, has three levels of security for bikes – Bronze, Silver and Gold (and some more for motorcycles and other things you may want to lock properly). Bronze should offer a “protection against opportunist thieves”, but it’s more of a consolation prize in our opinion. Silver is a “balance between price and security”, and this is kind of a starting category to look for. Gold should be the top class.

Rating is stated in the bottom of the badge.

Some pros and cons of using the rating organizations’ advice:

The tests are standardised – so you can actually compare different brand’s and lock types objective security;

Testing is  extensive . Huge variety of tools is used, different approaches are taken (brute force vs. “smart” approach);

Insurers  often even require them – in the NL usually ART locks – to insure the bike. So if you decide to insure the bike in the future, you don’t need to change the lock.

Tested locks  tend to be more expensive  (usually couple €);

Tested locks sometimes overshadow other, same quality and cheaper locks only because they have the rating.

In addition, ART is a bit more strict with the ratings, Sold Secure is said to test more locks (although on Dutch market we did not notice such thing). In general, both provide an awesome benchmark to start with, and in case you’re not more knowledgeable about locks than average bike thief, we’d recommend picking a certified lock. There’s, however, a plethora of awesome unrated locks, too – so if you happen to have one without a rating, no need to sell and change asap.

Question that still stands –  how secure lock do you actually need?  Answer: it depends on multiple factors, such as price (and looks) of your bike, place of frequent parking, periods you leave the bike unguarded. Here’s a tool for you:

And our answer key:

Note: There is unfortunately no such thing as “LOW” risk place for bike theft in the Netherlands.

In case you have – or decide to go with – an unrated lock, there’s one more tool to use: private (internal) ratings. Bigger brands such as Kryptonite, ABUS or OnGuard usually have internal security ratings (which significantly vary from one another). Same internal rating usually means also comparable objective security. So, when determining a security level of a lock, simply find a lock with the same internal rating that also has an ART or Sold Secure rating, and you can be quite sure you’re getting what you pay for.

And speaking about what you should pay…

2. Choosing the right type of lock

There are huge differences in lock prices. Obviously, there is a lot of brand marketing, innovations play a huge role in price-making, the aforementioned security ratings and finally, prices correlate with the type of the lock. In all this mess, lock types are probably the best anchors. (Unless you’re looking for something extremely specific – for instance as low weight as possible for whatever price – then you’re better off with a specific search among innovation projects.) Not all locks have a fair price, but if you choose conscientiously, it is undoubtedly and absolutely an investment worth its cost. Just consider the situation you buy a poor lock and get your bike stolen. Aside of buying a new lock (probably a better one anyway), you will also have to buy a new bike – which is never cheaper than a solid lock. So you’ll be losing much more money anyway.

While it's unfortunate that bike thefts do occur, you can take steps to secure your bike. Choose from our wide range of locks to enhance your bike's security!

Ok, so you’re convinced buying a good lock is a smart investment. But how much will you actually need?

We say at least €30, but depending on the security level you want, it can get much nastier. Average peace-of-mind protection in the Netherlands for a regular €150 second-hand bike would be somewhere between €50 – €70. With any budget above this, you can start being picky (although the toughest or most innovative locks of all will cost you even more than that, up to €140). However, in general, for anything above €100 you can even start get creative with combinations.

For instance, you can get a heavy “stationary” chain for your overnight home parking, compact U-lock for locking your ride on the go, and a back-up ring lock to double up the protection. Hypersecure combination of locks even for better bikes in riskier places altogether for €130. Just ideas thrown around.

For options including prices check out our bike accessories store .

Let’s organise our thoughts a bit. These are the basic types of locks you can buy:

...vs. convenience of use

Each one of them offers different advantages. U-locks are a great combination of security and price, but are harder to move around comfortably, and even slightly harder to lock (you need a thin post close to your frame). Chain locks, especially the thicker ones, are in general very hard to beat and quite easy to lock, but also very heavy (especially the thicker ones). Folding locks are awesome to transport, and easy to lock, but usually are the most expensive options. Wire locks are cheap crap that may be light, but DO NOT protect your bike.

Important aspects of buying a lock

Here’s a bit more extensive assessment of why (not) to buy each of the lock types:

Now take a moment and think of:

• What kind of bike do you have? Is it a racing bike (so you’ll probably appreciate a light, compact lock) or a city commuter which can carry a bit heavier lock?
• How often do you use the bike (lock)? If you lock the bike 4+ times a day, you may appreciate a simpler system, and if you travel to various locations where there isn’t always a bike rack ready for you, you may want to buy other than U-lock. On the other hand, using commuter bike three times a week, U-lock might be a great quality/price tradeoff for you.
• Where do you temporarily park/leave the bike overnight? City center/university campuses or larger city streets in general require safer options – strong U-lock or chain should be your choice, even if you should leave that lock on the spot and have another (lighter) one for commutes.
• How much are you willing to invest into protecting it?

Just answers to those questions should give you an idea of what lock type you will probably need, and how comfy you can eventually get. And so comes the time of…

3. Making the final choice

Finally! Time to make the choice. Here are some things to consider for each of the categories, together with a couple of our favourites for each type of the lock .

Things to consider

• Does the lock come with a (good) frame-attachable mount (holder)? If not, how will you carry it?
• What size do you need? The smaller the better (less “thief tool space”), but will it be big enough to brace your frame + wheel to a bike stand you usually use?
• Is it thicker than 13 mm (high security >15mm)? Going with U-lock, make sure it is thick enough to resist a bolt cutter attack. If you dig really deep, look for hardened steel ones.
• Stationary or carry around? The trade-off between security and comfort is obvious with chain locks: the really secure ones are heavy monsters.
• For both weight saving and increased security, better go for shorter locks (while making sure you can actually lock your bike). You’d have to wrap long ones around your frame anyway to avoid near-ground locking.
• Avoid locks with links thinner than 10 mm.
• Get one made of hardened steel alloy. To get that, best thing is to go with a well known brand.
• Check the (pad)lock. Every lock is as strong as its weakest point, so having a 15mm chain with a 5 mm padlock is…not smart.
• Check the security rating. Given a different shape of the connections (they tend to be flat) it is usually harder to power through with bolt cutters – but not always.
• Check the locking mechanism. Is it easy enough for you to use daily?
• Does the lock include frame-mountable “pocket”?
• Don’t forget to prioritise the security. Many locks from this category look awesome, but may be very easy to beat. Look for the independent security ratings.
• Be ready to pay the “innovation premium” – be it for design, weight, smart locking, or other exclusive feature.
• Keep the transportation possibilities in mind. Innovative shapes or materials sometimes cause bulkiness of the lock. Will you be able to transport it with your type of bike?

Now that you have chosen your awesome new lock (hooray!), we got bit of a moodkiller (boooooo!) – just a tiny one, though: in most occasions, you should have not one, but two locks to protect your bike sufficiently.

Anyway, no big need to worry. Second locks tend to be a category weaker (and cheaper). They serve a couple purposes: securing the other wheel, deterring thieves due to “double protection” and amateur thieves due to skills limited to one type/brand of locks. (That is why it is highly advisable to have two locks of different brands, ideally completely different types – e.g. U-lock and a backup folding lock.)

And that should also be your additional criteria for choosing the right (second) one. You’re now all boosted with knowledge about locks, aware of your priorities, so it shouldn’t take more than couple minutes to pick the second one. Your sweet ride will be grateful.

Pro tip: if you’re Dutch, you for sure know the local top choice for secondary security: ring locks. Unless you’re securing a racing bike, we’d recommend checking that option out. They’re cheap, hardly beatable on street and super comfortable to use ? As they say, if you love it, better put a ring on it!

Axa solid lock

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Also, if you are a bit of a geek and really care about your bike’s security, we’d recommend looking into other options of securing your bike, such as GPS trackers, UV paints, microdots and others. We’re working on an article on the topic.

Stay safe! <3

Check out our accessories store for selection of locks

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For a feeling of safety

Intelligent additional theft protection

Park your eBike and enjoy some carefree downtime: When out and about with an eBike, riders need to know that they can park it safely and securely. A mechanical lock provides basic protection from theft for the eBike, while the eBike Lock smart feature is the ideal complement.

eBike Lock with the smart system

You can easily use the eBike Lock function via the eBike Flow app on eBikes with the smart system. After a one-off installation via the eBike Flow app, the smartphone acts as your digital key for activating motor support. Recognition takes place automatically via Bluetooth technology, so your smartphone can stay in your pocket.

You can also optionally unlock your eBike manually with your smartphone using a button on the home screen. You can also set up the Kiox 300 or Kiox 500 as a key. When you remove the display from the mount, the eBike is additionally protected via eBike Lock. When you reinsert it, motor support is activated. Whether eBike Lock is active and motor support therefore deactivated is indicated by short tones, lights and symbols on the LED Remote, the display or smartphone. If your smartphone gets lost, simply log into the eBike Flow app with your account on another smartphone. eBike Lock in the smart system offers free, additional theft protection and more security for your eBike.

Simple and convenient

The eBike Lock function only needs to be installed once via your eBike Flow app. In the future, when you switch on your eBike, a Bluetooth check takes place to establish whether your smartphone is nearby with the appropriate digital key. Only then is motor support enabled. Your smartphone can stay in your pocket when you turn your eBike on and off.

Digital key

The eBike Lock function turns your smartphone into a digital key for your eBike. Motor support can only be activated if the phone is detected via Bluetooth when the eBike is turned on. If you so wish, you can also unlock the eBike manually using your smartphone – at a single click of a button on the home screen. You can also configure the Kiox 300 or Kiox 500 as a key. When you remove the display from the mount, your eBike is additionally protected. When you insert it again, motor support is activated. eBike Lock is linked to your personal account: If you lose your smartphone, you can deactivate eBike Lock with another smartphone and the eBike Flow app.

Huge benefits with minimal effort

The eBike Lock function is free of charge for the smart system. This additional anti-theft protection is a supplement to the mechanical lock and will help ensure that your eBike will remain safe and sound.

Always up-to-date

The eBike Lock function is the first step towards even more comprehensive theft protection. Thanks to the smart system, these and other innovative features will also be available for your eBike in the future - all over-the-air.

Clear signals for a safe feeling

Acoustic signals from the drive unit and symbols on the LED remote, the display or your smartphone indicate whether your eBike is secured by the automatic theft protection. The acoustic signals can be switched on or off via the eBike Flow app. The visual and acoustic signals let you know immediately whether your eBike is secured or ready to go.

Kiox 300 and eBike Lock

Turn your Kiox 300 or Kiox 500 into a key. It's as intuitive as it sounds: Simply remove the display from the mount and stow it away. This immediately provides additional protection for your eBike. Reinsert the display and use it to activate motor support before riding off. Using the eBike Flow app, you can set up your display as a key with eBike Lock.

Find out more

LED Remote and eBike Lock

The white LEDs of the LED Remote flash briefly to confirm that eBike Lock is active when switched off. When the remote is switched on, the LEDs flash again, indicating that the eBike is still locked and searching for a key.

eBike Flow app and eBike Lock

If you have activated eBike Lock once via the Flow app, motor support for your eBike will automatically deactivate when you turn it off. To unlock, all you need to do is have your smartphone with you when you turn on the eBike. Your eBike confirms locking and unlocking with short acoustic and light signals. You can also see whether the eBike Lock function is activated on your eBike by checking the home screen or the bike settings.

eBike Lock with Bosch eBike system 2 (Kiox/Nyon)

The eBike Lock premium function for the Bosch eBike system 2 is the ideal complement to a mechanical lock. Thanks to eBike Lock, motor support is deactivated when the Kiox or Nyon display is removed and the eBike become less attractive to thieves because it would be much harder to sell on. The eBike Lock function is only deactivated when the same display is reattached, which reactivates motor support. The display shows the eBike Lock status and the acoustic signal is heard when activating or deactivating motor support through the eBike Lock function. There is a one-time set up by means of the eBike Connect app involving an in-app purchase.

Smart connection

eBike Lock is compatible with the  Kiox   and  Nyon   connected displays. The eBike can only be unlocked with the very same display with which the eBike Lock feature was originally set up via the eBike Connect app.

Set up via the eBike Connect App

After purchase via the  eBike Connect smartphone app ,  eBike Lock can be set up via the display.

Google Play Store

Apple App Store

Quick parking

The eBike Lock is activated/deactivation by simply swiping up or down on the display.

One glance is all it takes

A lock icon in the display's status bar indicates whether the Lock function is enabled. This lets you know immediately that your eBike is not receiving motor support at present.

As with the central locking on a car, audible feedback tells you whether eBike Lock has been activated or deactivated. The acoustic signals can be switched on and off in the eBike Connect app.

Deterrent effect

If eBike Lock is activated, it is no longer possible to ride the eBike with motor support. The eBike becomes less attractive to thieves because it offers no riding enjoyment nor can it be resold in this condition.

Kiox and eBike Lock

Clever digital supplement to a mechanical lock: The eBike Lock premium function, which is subject to a modest charge, turns the Kiox display into the key for your eBike with Bosch eBike system 2. This function lets you deactivate motor support by disconnecting the display. The electronic lock only unlocks again when the same display is reconnected.

Nyon and eBike Lock

Worry-free parking: Nyon can also act as a key for the eBike with the eBike Lock premium function in Bosch eBike system 2. Removing the display deactivates motor support, rendering the eBike unattractive to thieves. A useful additional digital security device that complements the conventional lock.

Compatibility

The 'Lock' premium function in conjunction with the Kiox and the new Nyon (since model year 2021) is compatible with the Bosch Active Line and Active Line Plus drives from model year 2018 onwards and with the Performance Line, Cargo Line, Performance Line Speed and Performance Line CX from model year 2020 onwards.   Please make sure to update both the display and the drive unit to the latest software version. The current software versions for our components are listed here . There is also an explanation of how to find the hardware and software versions in the display settings. This information is also available under ebike-connect.com > “My eBike”.

FAQs & more

How is 'lock' activated/deactivated.

Lock is activated by disconnecting the configured on-board computer and deactivated by re-connecting it.

How do I set up and activate or deactivate the premium 'Lock' function?

After you have purchased the premium function from the Google Play Store or the Apple App Store, the eBike Lock feature will appear in the eBike Connect app under My eBike .

You can use the My eBike > Lock function menu item to set up the function and activate/deactivate it. To do this, move the slide control to the right or left.

On how many eBikes or on-board computers can I use the 'Lock' function?

You can install the premium Lock function on up to four eBikes using the same account.

Find a local eBike dealer

Ebike brands.

The specialist dealers are extensively trained in the eBike 'Expert' programme and receive continuous support - a benefit for the end customer, who profits from an especially competent service.

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• Electronics
• Smartphones

The Best Bike Phone Mount

By Amy Roberts and Christine Ryan

Using a smartphone mount while biking is a boon for anyone who wants easy access to their device. But with phone prices approaching—and topping—the $1,000 mark, you want to be sure your device stays firmly attached.

After riding with 27 smartphone bike mounts over 120 miles’ worth of smooth and rough roads, we’ve concluded that the Quad Lock Out Front Mount and Quad Lock cases (which come in iPhone , Samsung Galaxy , and Pixel versions) are the ones we’d use for our own phones.

Everything we recommend

Quad Lock Case for iPhone Devices

The best bike phone mount case for iphone.

These phone-specific cases, in sizes fitting all recent models of the iPhone (back to and including the 5/5S/SE series), lock into Quad Lock’s clamp-on mount.

Buying Options

Quad Lock Case for Galaxy Devices

The best bike phone mount case for samsung galaxy.

These phone-specific cases, in sizes fitting all recent models of the Samsung Galaxy (back to and including the S8), lock into Quad Lock’s clamp-on mount.

Quad Lock Case for Pixel Devices

The best bike phone mount case for google pixel.

These phone-specific cases, in sizes fitting all recent models of the Google Pixel (back to and including the 3 series), lock into Quad Lock’s clamp-on mount.

Quad Lock Universal Adaptor

The best bike phone mount adapter.

This adapter, which adheres to the back of compatible phones and cases, locks into Quad Lock’s clamp-on mount.

Quad Lock Out Front Mount

The best bike phone mount base.

This clamp-on mount fits any handlebar size; once you’ve locked your phone into it (using a Quad Lock case or the Universal Adaptor), the phone stays safely and securely in place.

Budget pick

Nite Ize Wraptor

No-tool installation.

Although not as rock solid as the Quad Lock system, this mount held phones the most securely of any silicone-strap models we tested, and it should be just fine for occasional use or for bike-share riders.

Upgrade pick

Peak Design Everyday Case for iPhone 15

A magsafe bike mount case for iphone.

This MagSafe-compatible phone-specific case locks into Peak Design’s clamp-on mount. It also comes in sizes fitting all the other variations of the iPhone 15, as well as older models of the iPhone (back to and including the 11 series).

Peak Design Everyday Case for Galaxy

A magsafe bike mount case for samsung galaxy.

These phone-specific cases, in sizes fitting the S21 through S24 series of the Samsung Galaxy, lock into Peak Design’s clamp-on mount. They also let the phones charge with most MagSafe chargers, but they may interfere with stylus accessories.

Peak Design Everyday Case for Pixel

A magsafe bike mount case for late-model google pixels.

These phone-specific cases, in sizes fitting the Google Pixel 6 through 8 models, lock into Peak Design’s clamp-on mount. They also let the phones charge with most MagSafe chargers.

Peak Design Universal Adapter

A nearly flat bike mount adapter.

This adapter, which adheres to the back of compatible cases and is flatter than the QuadLock adapter, locks into Peak Design’s clamp-on mount. It’s compatible with MagSafe accessories, but wireless charging may not work.

Peak Design Out Front Bike Mount V2 With Additional Collar

An aluminum bike mount base.

This clamp-on aluminum mount fits almost any handlebar size. Retractable tabs and a strong magnet are easy to use and hold your phone tight—as long you’re using a Peak Design case or adapter. The system is pricey, though.

We looked for …

You don’t want your phone to rattle or shake in the mount —and you really don’t want the mount itself to come loose on rough roads.

The best options use a phone case that locks onto a handlebar or stem mount, but you have to buy either the system’s case or an adapter.

If you use your phone on bike-share rides, choose a mount that fits in a pocket and is super easy to put on and take off .

Riders with newer phones should consider a mount and case compatible with current charging technologies, such as MagSafe.

The Quad Lock cases (available for iPhone , Samsung Galaxy , and Pixel ) and the Quad Lock Universal Adaptor , combined with the company’s Out Front Mount (which we prefer to the stem mount that comes in Quad Lock’s case-and-mount kits), proved to be the confidence-inspiring solutions for securely attaching any smartphone to any bicycle. In our tests, phones vibrated hardly at all—let alone rattled or shook—in the Quad Lock products, no matter how bumpy the road became. Both the phone cases and the universal adapter twist to lock into place on the mount, which in turn clamps onto a bike’s handlebars.

The iPhone 8 Plus case we tested didn’t interfere with phone functions, and based on the Quad Lock cases we’ve tested for other guides , we’re confident that it would protect the phone in daily use. (Also, you can use the cases and adapters with Quad Lock’s many other mounts, for car dashboards, running armbands, and more.) The indented socket on the back of the case was among the least noticeable of the case-type bike mounts we tested. The Universal Adaptor sticks out from a phone’s case (or back), like most such adapters, which you may find annoying; if that bothers you, you might consider buying a separate “bike ride” case for your phone.

The Nite Ize Wraptor is a simple, well-designed option for riders who want to be able to mount their phone on their own bike or a bike-share bike, and who generally ride on smooth, paved roads . The silicone straps that attach phone to mount and mount to bike feel much sturdier than those of other, similar mounts. Because of the stretchy nature of silicone, we did find that our test phones would vibrate more in the Wraptor than they did in the pricier Quad Lock mounts when we rode on rough terrain, but it was nothing like the rattling we witnessed with other silicone mounts, and even some case-based mounts.

The Wraptor fits handlebars of all sizes and is a cinch to install and remove. Likewise, the straps fit phones of all sizes, and they don’t get in the way of the phone’s screen or buttons—a problem we had with other silicone mounts. You can also easily rotate the phone from portrait to landscape (and vice versa) even as you pedal. The entire mount is small enough to tuck into a pocket when not in use.

The aluminum Peak Design Out Front Bike Mount V2 and polycarbonate cases (available for late-model iPhone , Samsung Galaxy , and Pixel phones) and the Peak Design Universal Adapter work in much the same way as our top pick, the Quad Lock system. The Bike Mount’s arm clamps onto your bike’s handlebars, and the phone case (or adapter) clicks audibly into the 2.25-square-inch silicone-softened base. Where the Quad Lock mount uses a twist-into-place locking mechanism, the Peak Design mount combines retractable aluminum tabs—released by two buttons on the underside of the base—that fit into a square cutout on the back of the phone case with a very strong magnet that grabs and holds the case . This belt-and-suspenders design kept our phones solidly in place on rough roads and rocky trails.

As with the Quad Lock, we recommend the Peak Design cases in other guides , and we’re equally confident they’ll protect any phone well; also like Quad Lock, Peak Design sells other phone mounts and accessories, including car mounts , motorcycle mounts , and tripods . Unlike the thick Quad Lock cases, Peak Design’s cases work seamlessly with wireless-charging systems such as MagSafe. Peak Design doesn’t have as deep a back catalog, though—perhaps because the company started making phone cases years later than Quad Lock—so owners of older models will have to make do with the Universal Adapter instead of a dedicated case. You’ll also pay about $40–$50 more for the Peak Design system.

The research

Why you should trust us, who this is for, how we picked and tested, our pick: quad lock bike mounts, budget pick: nite ize wraptor, upgrade pick: peak design bike mounts, the competition.

Amy Roberts, the original author of this guide, researched, tested, and wrote about fitness gear for Wirecutter. She had owned several smartphone bike mounts, mainly so she could follow Google Maps biking directions. Senior editor Christine Ryan, who did additional testing for the 2022 update of this guide, has overseen Wirecutter’s cycling-gear coverage for seven years; in a previous life, she commuted by bike the 36 miles from San Francisco to work in Menlo Park, California, two or three times a week .

A smartphone bike mount is a worthy investment for bike commuters or recreational riders who want to use their phone for directions, whether on their own bikes or on ride-share bikes. It’s also of use to someone who wants to record their rides for fitness purposes but doesn’t need the bells and whistles of a dedicated cycling computer.

We began our research in 2019 by looking at how cycling-enthusiast publications and websites, such as Bicycling and Cycling Weekly , reviewed mounts and which models were their favorites. We also searched for best sellers on Amazon, as well as on several cycling-specific online stores, to see what people buy (and how happy they are with their purchases) and what the in-the-know retailers choose to sell.

Bicycle smartphone mounts come in a wide range of designs. We looked at three of the most common types of mounts, the first of which consists of two parts: a phone case or a stick-on adapter (to put on your own case) and a compatible base that attaches to the bike. The second uses silicone bands or plastic brackets to hold up to an extra-large smartphone. The third fully envelops a phone—you view its screen through a clear plastic cover.

From our initial list of 29 mounts, we nixed several because of iffy reviews or stock issues. We then called in 22 mounts for testing, including both the phone-specific and universal versions of the two-part systems.

We tested with both an iPhone 8 Plus—to represent an extra-large model and one for which the mount companies make a specific case—and a Samsung Galaxy S8 Active, which served as our more regular-size smartphone and the one on which we’d test the adapters. We eliminated a few mounts right off the bat if the phones didn’t fit well in the cases or mounts, if they seemed particularly insecure in the mounts, or if some part of the mount impeded the usability of the phone screen or buttons.

Amy Roberts installed each remaining mount on the handlebars (31.8 mm diameter) or stem of a Trek Lexa road bike. She took each for a 2-mile spin on the roads of St. Croix in the US Virgin Islands, where she was working remotely. That short stretch alone contained four different surfaces: gravelly old asphalt, rutted dirt, newly poured concrete, and very recently repaved asphalt.

• how easy (or not) it was to install and remove the mount on the bike, and any tools it required
• how easy or difficult it was to affix and remove the phones on the mounts
• whether the phones could be mounted in portrait or landscape view, and how easy it was to switch views
• the convenience and aesthetics of the mount location on the bike and the phone’s viewing angle while riding, and if the latter could be adjusted (and how easily)
• how much (if any) rattling, shaking, vibration, or other movement the phones experienced over the different surfaces, and if any part of the mount came loose during that brief trip

Taking the six mounts that performed the best so far, Amy tested them on a borrowed mountain bike. Two mounts didn’t fit on the much skinnier (22.2 mm) handlebars, so out they went. She rode with the remaining four in varying conditions and until she was confident in her picks.

In 2022, Christine Ryan tested six more mounts, some newly available and some suggested by readers, against our existing picks using a 2020 iPhone SE and a Pixel 3a. She installed the mounts on the drop handlebars (31.8 mm) of her Marin Cortina cyclo-cross bike and on the flat handlebars (22.2 mm) of her Cannondale Scalpel mountain bike, and rode seven-mile loops through San Francisco on surfaces that involved smooth pavement, not-so-smooth pavement, a little curb-hopping, and some rocky trails.

A Quad Lock case (available for iPhone , Samsung Galaxy , and Google Pixel ) or Universal Adaptor used with the company’s Out Front Mount held our test phones supremely stable over all sorts of road surfaces. We recommend this combo above other mounts if you’re a regular rider who intends for a smartphone to be your frequent copilot when you tool around town.

The sockets for both the phone case and universal adapter twist and lock firmly onto the bike’s mount bracket and won’t let go without your releasing the safety lever, which you can do with one hand.

We found it easy to put the iPhone 8 Plus case on our test phone. It fit well, didn’t interfere with the side buttons or wireless charging (this did not always hold true for newer iPhones, though; see Flaws but not dealbreakers) , and had a lip that was high enough to protect the phone if it were to fall facedown on a flat surface. The socket on the back, while noticeable, was one of the least bothersome of any case we tested.

Quad Lock makes cases for most iPhone, Samsung Galaxy, and Pixel models; people who own other phones can use the Universal Adaptor, which sticks firmly to a phone or case with a high-bond adhesive. The company suggests affixing the adapter directly to either your phone, if the phone is made of “suitable” material (very few are), or to a case made of a material on the approved list . Amy didn’t see the list before we purchased the test cases for her Samsung Galaxy S8 Active—and there are limited case options available for that phone anyway—but still, even on her unapproved TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) case, the adapter remained sturdily attached.

The Quad Lock Out Front Mount, which is made of glass-filled nylon, clamps onto 31.8 mm handlebars with a single Allen bolt; it comes with a hex wrench as well as the plastic shims to fit 22 mm and 25.4 mm bars. Quad Lock sells a pricier Out Front Mount Pro , which we also tested; it’s made of anodized aluminum and designed to be more aerodynamic. The non-Pro feels plenty sturdy, though, and we believe that few recreational riders would want to spend the extra cash for improved aerodynamics. Plus, the Allen bolt on the Pro screws in from the bottom, making it harder to attach than the non-Pro mount.

Quad Lock sells bike kits that include either a phone case or the Universal Adaptor with the company’s Handlebar/Stem Mount . Amy tested this mount; although she found it stable and secure, she liked it less than the slightly pricier Out Front Mount, for several reasons. This mount is best attached to the stem of the bike, but you can’t adjust the phone’s viewing angle there. It can also go on the handlebars, but the mount wouldn’t fit lengthwise on her test road bike in the narrow space that wasn’t taped, and it jutted out awkwardly on the mountain bike’s skinnier bars.

It also has two means of assembly, both of which are tool-free but not without flaws. The first, a pair of strong silicone O-rings, is reusable but not easy to put on and take off; it’s also unclear how many times you could do this before the rings would snap. The second, a set of zip ties, provides greater peace of mind but isn’t reusable. In addition, the kits come with a fitted rain cover (also sold separately). Amy found it a struggle to get it on and off, and given that most new phones are water resistant anyway, it seems unnecessary.

As we note in our guide to the best iPhone cases , Quad Lock offers additional mounts for many other uses—including car dashboards, motorcycles, and running armbands—that work with their cases and universal adapter.

Flaws but not dealbreakers

Though the Quad Lock case’s mount socket isn’t as obtrusive as those of similar products, it still creates a bumpy dent on the back of the phone that may bother some people. The Universal Adaptor adds enough bulk that we wouldn’t want it there all the time; you might consider buying an approved case specifically for use with the mount.

Amy found it tricky to align the socket with the mount, often fumbling with it and peeking under the phone to see why things weren’t matching up; she did discover that depressing the release lever can help get it to go on with less futzing.

You can’t change the phone from portrait to landscape mode without releasing the lock on the base. Amy didn’t find herself needing to do so very often, as portrait is generally the orientation that works best with apps. Still, other mounts, including our budget pick , do this more readily.

For some people, the biggest downside of the Quad Lock case was that the thickness of the mount point prevents wireless charging from working on some Qi chargers . For example, while the Quad Lock case worked fine with several flat Qi chargers we tested, the case did not allow charging with the single stand-style charger we had on hand. For the iPhone 12 and 13 in particular, a MagSafe charger won’t work at all if a Quad Lock case is installed, and the case makes it less likely that third-party wireless chargers will be able to juice up the phone. QuadLock has since addressed this problem by offering alternate, MagSafe versions of each of its cases for the iPhone 12, 13, 14, and 15. You just need to be sure to choose that type of the case, which costs an additional $10.

The Nite Ize Wraptor is a great choice for occasional riders, and for anyone who wants to easily add or remove a phone mount from their own bike or a bike-share bike. It won’t hold your phone as motionless as the Quad Lock mounts, but it’s less than a third of the price and will work with the case you already have.

With the Wraptor, silicone straps both hold the phone in and attach the mount to the bike. The ones that secure the phone to the mount are wider and thicker than most others of this style. Nite Ize says the Wraptor fits regular- and plus-size phones with or without a case; t he straps on ours accommodated our iPhone 8 Plus in a Speck Presidio Grip case ( our pick for the iPhone 8 Plus for more protection ) and held our smaller Samsung Galaxy S8 Active firmly. They also didn’t cover the buttons or screen in a way that impeded the use of the phone, unlike some silicone mounts we tested.

One unexpected use for this mount appeared during the pandemic, when many of us were indoors riding bikes attached to smart trainers and spending a lot of time in virtual cycling games. One of these games, the Zwift app, introduced a steering feature that only works if you attach your phone (running the game) to your handlebars, and the Wraptor proved ideal for that purpose.

A hefty silicone strap secures the mount to the bike’s handlebars; you stretch the strap around the bars and hook one of the strap’s holes on the peg at its base. On the mount, the phone rotates between portrait and landscape orientation, clicking into place every few degrees as you turn it. The whole thing is compact enough to tuck into a pocket when you’re not using it, making it especially convenient for bike-share users.

Because silicone is inherently stretchy, the test phones vibrated more in this mount than in the Quad Lock when we rolled over bumps and potholes. Of all the easy-on, easy-off silicone mounts we tested, though, the Nite Ize was the most stable; the one from Vup , for example, shook and bobbed at even the slightest change in surface texture. In fact, this mount fared better than two of the more expensive—and ostensibly sturdier—case-style mounts, the Tigra and the original version of the SP Connect .

Although we saw no indication of wear during our tests, and we’ve used similar straps for years with no problem, we still recommend inspecting the straps regularly.

If you’ve already invested in the Peak Design phone case ecosystem, we recommend a Peak Design Out Front Mount V2 , which works with an Everyday Case (available for late-model iPhone , Samsung Galaxy , and Google Pixel phones) or a Universal Adapter . The mount-and-case combo costs about $40–$50 more than a similar Quad Lock setup. But that higher price gets you a rock-steady phone mount that’s less fussy to use than that of the Quad Lock system, plus a great-looking, protective case that’s less bulky than the other options we tested.

Unlike the Quad Lock cases, which twist and lock onto a bracket, the Peak Design cases click straight onto the mount’s 2.25-inch-square aluminum base, eliminating the kind of trouble we had aligning the Quad Lock case. The back of each phone case (and adapter) has a recessed, 0.8-inch square cutout that mates with a raised metal square on each base. Retractable tabs on the raised square extend under the lip of the cutout; in addition, a strong, MagSafe-compatible magnet concealed under the cutout holds the phone case firmly to the base, which is covered with a silicone “cushion.”

(While holding a phone and case locked onto a mount and facing downward, we compressed the two release buttons under the base to retract the tabs—so the magnet was the only thing keeping mount and case together—and shook as hard as we could. Mount, phone case, and phone all stayed stuck together, at least until we accidentally hit one edge of the case. Then the phone and case fell to the floor.)

As with the Quad Lock system, to switch between landscape and portrait mode you have to remove the Peak Design case from the mount and reattach it. (Our budget pick lets you turn the phone while it’s in the mount.)

We highly recommend the Peak Design Everyday Case in our guide to the best iPhone 15 cases , praising its looks (its polycarbonate body is covered in a dark-gray nylon) and functionality (the buttons work, and its TPU border has ridges to help protect the phone if you drop it). Despite the cutout-and-magnet affair in the case’s back, the Everyday Case isn’t noticeably thicker than our favorite no-frills iPhone case . Perhaps most importantly, Peak Design’s cases are all MagSafe compatible; its cases for Samsung Galaxy and Pixel phones also include the MagSafe magnet and may allow you to charge your Android using a MagSafe charger. (The magnet will, however, prevent Samsung’s S Pen stylus from working.)

Peak Design started making phone cases in 2021. This may be why it produces cases for relatively recent models only: If you have an iPhone older than the 11 series, a pre-S21 Galaxy, or any Pixel before the 6 series, you’ll have to settle for Peak Design’s Universal Adapter. That said, the adapter is definitely slimmer than Quad Lock’s, and although Peak Design warns that it may not allow wireless charging, our 2020 iPhone SE charged just fine on a MagSafe stand while wearing an adapter-equipped case. (Peak Design advises attaching the adapter only to the back of a case, not to the back of your phone.)

The hinged aluminum arm of the Peak Design mount encircles your handlebars and is secured by a single Allen bolt; the mount comes with the appropriate wrench. The current version of the mount comes with four sets of plastic collars that make the arm fit onto 22.2 mm, 25.4 mm, 31.8 mm, and 35 mm handlebars (that is, the most common mountain-, hybrid-, and road-bike sizes). The Allen bolt on the Peak Design mount screws in from the bottom—not from the top, like the more-convenient Quad Lock mount—but the bolt comes with a washer that keeps it from falling out entirely (as such bolts invariably do) when you unscrew it.

This clamp system worked well on the handlebars we tried it on, but it won’t work for aero-shaped (that is, not round) handlebars, tapered handlebars, or handlebars in an unusual size . The company sells a Universal Bar Mount with a silicone “hook and ladder” band that you can strap around your handlebar or stem. We haven’t tested it, but we’ve used the same sort of silicone bands with bike lights (and like them). They don’t always keep the lights from tilting up or down a bit, but we haven’t lost one yet. The universal mount could also be handy in any situation where you find yourself frequently wanting to move a mount between bikes.

Like Quad Lock, Peak Design has an array of mounts and accessories for its phone cases that includes desk chargers, car-dashboard mounts, wall mounts, motorcycle mounts, and more.

Two-part mounts with phone-specific cases or universal adapters

The Thule Smartphone Bike Mount is unlike any other mount we tested: It has a hefty base that attaches across the center of the handlebars, and a spring-loaded bracket plus silicone straps to hold in any size phone. It’s bulky and time-consuming to install, but once Amy had it in place on the road bike’s handlebars, her phone stayed put. Unfortunately, the mount wasn’t compatible with our test mountain bike, even with the included plastic shims.

Available only for iPhones at the time of our testing, the Morpheus M4s Bike Kit, from Germany, had a phone case with a very nice fit and feel, but its lip was lower than the 1 mm minimum that Apple recommends for screen protection. Also, as of spring 2023, Morpheus products are no longer available in the US.

The concept of the iOmounts Nomad Universal Bike Phone Mount was great: You stick a magnetic disc the size of a half-dollar to the back of your phone or a compatible phone case, loop the mount base around the handlebars, and pull it tight like a zip tie. And in our original tests, the magnet indeed kept the phone stable and secure. However, the base was challenging to get snug and downright frustrating to release and remove, and the mount was incompatible with Qi charging due to that metal disc. A company named Klock Werks acquired iOmounts in late 2020 and sells a very similar version called the Nomad Universal Phone Mount ; we foresee it having the same difficulty with wireless charging, however.

We tested nearly the entire line of Rokform bike mounts , including both the Rugged and Crystal cases for our iPhone 8 Plus, the Universal Mount Adapter for our Samsung Galaxy S8 Active, and the V4 Pro Series Phone Bike Mount . None were as good as the Quad Lock mount, yet they cost more. The V4 Pro Series Phone Bike Mount appeared to be sturdier than the Rokform Pro-Lite Bike Mount it replaced, but it’s still pricey.

The SP Connect Bike Bundle —with cases available for iPhones and Samsung Galaxy phones (as well as other Android models) and a Universal Adapter for anything else—is more adjustable than its predecessors. However, to switch between portrait and landscape mode, you still have to adjust the back of the case itself using a small plastic “stand tool”—not convenient to do mid-ride. (The tool, which comes with the mount, was unlabeled and unmentioned in the packing material—we only discovered its name and purpose by reading the user’s manual for the case, not the mount, on the SP Connect site.)

The Tigra Sport FitClic Neo line is similar in concept to the Quad Lock and Rokform models but not as well executed. The case for the iPhone 8 Plus obstructed the phone’s side buttons. The process for locking and unlocking the phone and mount, involving a skinny plastic lever, isn’t very user-friendly. The standard mount felt more stable than the out-front one, but our test phones rattled more in both locations than we’d like.

The Topeak Ridecase for iPhone lacks an adequate protective lip and isn’t wireless-charging compatible. Also, extracting the phone to swap it to a different case was challenging.

The Fidlock Vacuum Phone cases aren’t compatible with wireless charging either, according to user reviews on the company’s own site and elsewhere .

Mounts with universal-fit silicone straps or plastic braces

The low-profile, forged-aluminum frame of the Delta Cycle X-Mount Pro can fit only under a bike’s stem cap—there’s no other way to attach it, and no way to adjust the angle it sits at. The sturdy silicone bands hold a regular or extra-large phone securely, though in portrait orientation only.

The Vibrelli Universal Bike Phone Mount , which holds a phone using silicone corner straps and a spring-loaded plastic bracket, is far less involved to mount than the similarly styled Thule. But its base felt less sturdy, with a plastic ball-in-socket mount that you tighten with a plastic ring nut.

With a spring-loaded bracket and plastic ball-in-socket mechanism, the Roam Universal Premium Bike Phone Mount resembles the Vibrelli; where it differs is in the handlebar mount, which is overly complicated, annoying to attach, and extremely wide (it takes up nearly 2 inches of handlebar space).

The Zéfal Universal Mobile Mount uses a plastic ball-in-socket mount similar to that of the Vibrelli and Roam models. However, rather than just pulling apart its plastic bracket arms, you have to push a button to spread them; once spread, they felt very wiggly, even while locked in place. The mount has little “feet” that fold forward to support the bottom of your phone, but they obstructed the silicone corner straps when in place.

With both TrailKase products from Bikase that we tested, the test phones rattled and shook over every bump. The TrailKase with Q/R 360 Degree Bracket had a heavy, metal mount base that projects quite a lot, while the lower-profile plastic mount for the TrailKase Universal Phone Holder felt flimsy.

The Topeak Omni RideCase DX seemed sturdy. Unfortunately, its wide silicone brackets obscured the home button on both the iPhone 8 Plus and the Samsung Galaxy S8 we tested it with.

The Ram X-Grip Phone Mount  has  four spring-loaded arms with rubber knobs that grip your phone. Unfortunately, unless we positioned the arms in such a way that the lower ones barely made contact with the bottom of our iPhone SE, the upper ones held and activated the volume buttons on one side and the power button on the other. (Also, the mount comes with a tiny vial of quick-set glue but no instructions for what to do with it; after digging around the Ram Mounts site, we deduced that you’re meant to glue the rubber knobs onto the metal arms before using the mount—which might be something you’d want to know up front.)

The Gub G-85 Bicycle Phone Holder we tested, one of a few variations on a theme from the same company, is impressively solid for its price (it’s made entirely of aluminum) but complicated to assemble. And if you don’t want to scratch your expensive phone, or possibly let it slip out of the four metal prongs that grip it, you’ll need to stick four teeny-tiny cushions included with the mount onto those prongs. A jeweler’s loupe might come in handy.

The Vup Universal Bike Cell Phone Holder  is an easy-to-install, inexpensive silicone-bracket mount popular on Amazon. Unfortunately, the test phones rattled, quaked, and bounced way too much on our rides, and the lower strap got in the way of the home button on the iPhone 8 Plus.

Another low-priced Amazon best seller, the Ailun Silicone Strap Phone Mount Holder , felt so much flimsier than similarly styled mounts that we didn’t dare test it on a bike. Its straps could also get in the way of a phone’s home button.

The lower strap of the Team Obsidian Silicone Bike Mount covered both phones’ home buttons, and we struggled to stretch the thick silicone straps onto the 8 Plus in the Speck Presidio case.

Getting our phones in and out of the Delta Cycle Smartphone Holder XL  and Hefty Holder was challenging, and both are large, awkward, and, frankly, ugly.

The Nite Ize HandleBand felt durable and secure. However, the wide straps cut across and blocked part of the phone screen.

Mounts with waterproof universal-fit phone holders

The Topeak Smartphone Drybag , which we tested in its 5-inch size, was a tight fit on the iPhone 8 Plus in its case. However, we were more concerned with how much the test phone rattled and bobbled up and down at the slightest pavement change, regardless of whether the bag was mounted to the handlebars or stem.

The Bikase Handy Andy 6 , which attaches with two Velcro straps, was easy to put on and take off, and Amy noticed minimal phone movement and shaking on the road. But the plastic window reflected so much glare that she couldn’t see the phone screen at all. (There seem to be no new versions for later phones.)

This article was edited by Christine Ryan.

Great Phone Mounts for Your Bike , Bicycling , June 1, 2021

Josh Ross, Best waterproof cycling phone cases reviewed , Cycling Weekly , October 14, 2021

Meet your guides

Amy Roberts

Amy Roberts is a certified personal trainer (NASM-CPT), a running coach (USATF Level 1), and a regionally competitive runner. She also served as a staff writer for the Good Housekeeping Institute for nearly five years, working closely with the engineers and other scientists to interpret product test results.

Christine Ryan

Christine Ryan is a senior editor at Wirecutter overseeing the teams that cover travel, outdoors gear, beds and linens, home decor, and more. (She also edits and writes about cycling equipment, which gives her an excuse to sneak away from her desk and go for a ride.) Previously, she was an editor at European Travel & Life, Gourmet, and Sunset.

Further reading

The Best Bike Handlebar Bag

by Sam Schild

After testing dozens of bike handlebar bags, we’ve chosen five that can carry all your riding essentials, no matter where you’re headed.

The Best Commuter Bike Lights

by Lindsay Warner

After testing some 115 lights over the past 10 years, we can recommend the best headlight and the best taillight for most people who commute by bicycle.

The Best Bike Panniers

by Eve O'Neill

After spending four years testing dozens of panniers, we’ve chosen six that’ll be great for daily duty no matter what you’re toting or where you’re going.

The Best iPhone Cases for the iPhone 12, 12 Mini, 12 Pro, and 12 Pro Max

by Nick Guy

We’ve tested dozens of iPhone 12 cases—and iPhone 12 mini, Pro, and Pro Max options too—to find great options for a range of styles and needs.

Mountain Bike Suspension Lockout Fork: How it Works?

What is a lockout fork.

A lockout fork is a feature found on mountain bikes that allows the rider to lock the front suspension fork in a rigid position, preventing it from compressing and rebounding. This means that the fork remains in a fixed position without absorbing any impacts or bumps during the ride. Essentially, it turns a suspension fork into a rigid fork, providing a completely stiff front end to the bike.

Why is it important for mountain biking?

The suspension lockout fork feature is important for mountain biking because it offers several benefits to riders, including:

1. Climbing Efficiency:  When climbing steep inclines or riding on smooth, flat terrain, a lockout fork allows the rider to transfer more power to the pedals without any energy being lost through the compression and rebound of the suspension fork. This can result in increased efficiency and speed.

2. Better Control:  On rough downhill sections or when riding over technical obstacles, a suspension fork absorbs the impact and helps to maintain traction and control. However, on certain sections of the trail where the rider wants more precise handling, such as tight turns or steep descents, the lockout fork provides a rigid front end, giving the rider more control and responsiveness.

3. Energy Conservation:  By utilizing the lockout fork when it is not needed, riders can conserve energy and reduce fatigue over long rides. This is particularly useful during endurance races or multi-day rides where conserving energy becomes crucial.

In conclusion, a lockout fork on a mountain bike is a valuable feature that provides greater versatility and control to riders. Whether it’s for climbing efficiency, better control, or conserving energy, the lockout fork option is a must-have for serious mountain bikers.

How Does a Lockout Fork Work?

Explanation of the mechanism.

A lockout fork is a feature found on mountain bikes that allows the rider to lock the front suspension fork in a rigid position, essentially turning it into a rigid fork. The mechanism of a lockout fork involves a switch or lever that can be easily accessed by the rider while riding.

When the switch is engaged, it activates a mechanism inside the fork that prevents the fork from compressing and rebounding, effectively locking it in place.

This mechanism typically involves a hydraulic or mechanical lockout system that restricts the flow of oil or causes a mechanical lock to keep the fork from moving. By locking out the fork, the rider can minimize the amount of movement in the front suspension, which can help improve efficiency during climbs or when riding on smooth terrains.

Benefits of using a lockout fork

The use of a lockout fork on a mountain bike can offer several advantages to riders, including:

1. Increased pedaling efficiency :  When riding on flat or smooth terrains, the compression and rebound of the front suspension fork can absorb some of the rider’s pedaling power. By locking out the fork, the rider can transfer all of their pedaling energy directly to the drivetrain, resulting in increased pedaling efficiency and speed.

2. Improved climbing performance:  Climbing steep gradients requires maximum power transfer to the rear wheel. By locking out the front suspension, the rider can maintain better traction on the rear wheel by preventing weight transfer to the front, resulting in improved climbing performance.

3. Enhanced control and stability:  In certain situations where stability and control are crucial, such as on technical descents or when riding at high speeds , a locked-out fork can provide increased stability and precise steering. This can help riders navigate tricky sections with greater confidence and control.

4. Customizability:  Many lockout forks offer adjustable levels of compression and rebound damping. This allows riders to fine-tune the performance of their suspension fork to suit their riding style and preferences.

It is important to note that a lockout fork should not be engaged when riding on rough or technical terrain, as the front suspension is necessary to absorb impacts and provide traction. The lockout feature is best utilized when riding on flat or smooth terrains, climbing, or during situations where maximum efficiency and control are desired.

Overall, a lockout fork is a valuable feature that adds versatility to a mountain bike , allowing riders to optimize their bike’s performance for different terrains and riding conditions.

Types of Lockout Forks

There are several types of lockout forks available for mountain bikes, each offering their own advantages and features. These include:

1. Manual lockout forks:

Manual lockout forks  are the most common type of lockout forks and require the rider to manually adjust the lockout feature. This is done by turning a dial or flipping a switch located on the fork. Manual lockout forks are simple to use and typically offer a firm lockout with minimal suspension movement.

2. Remote lockout forks:

Remote lockout forks  feature a handlebar-mounted control that allows the rider to adjust the lockout feature without taking their hands off the handlebars. This type of lockout fork is popular among riders who frequently switch between open and locked positions while riding.

3. Electronic lockout forks:

Electronic lockout forks  are the most advanced type of lockout forks and utilize electronic mechanisms to control the lockout feature. These forks often integrate with a suspension control system and can be adjusted on the fly using a remote control or smartphone app. Electronic lockout forks offer precise control and can be customized to suit the rider’s preferences.

Each type of lockout fork has its own unique advantages and it’s important to choose the one that best suits your riding style and preferences.

Popular Brands and Models

Overview of lockout forks from different brands

When it comes to lockout forks for mountain bikes, several popular brands offer reliable and high-performance options. Here are some of the leading brands and their lockout fork models:

1. Fox Racing:  Fox Racing is well-known for its suspension forks, including the Fox 32 Step-Cast and the Fox 34 Factory. These forks feature a lockout mechanism that allows riders to switch between fully active suspension and a rigid fork feel for more efficient climbing.

2. RockShox:  RockShox is a trusted name in the mountain biking industry , offering a range of lockout forks such as the RockShox SID and the RockShox Pike. These forks provide excellent control and adjustability, allowing riders to fine-tune their suspension for different terrains and riding styles.

3. SR Suntour:  SR Suntour is known for producing affordable yet reliable suspension forks . Their lockout forks, such as the SR Suntour XCR and the SR Suntour Raidon, offer impressive performance and are often found on entry-level and mid-range mountain bikes.

4. Manitou:  Manitou is a brand that focuses on innovative suspension technology. Their lockout forks, like the Manitou Markhor and the Manitou Minute, feature advanced damping systems and adjustable lockout mechanisms to enhance performance on the trails.

Comparison of features and performance

Here’s a quick comparison of some key features and performance aspects of lockout forks from different brands:

These are just a few examples of popular lockout forks from different brands. The right choice will depend on factors such as your riding style, budget, and specific preferences.

For more information on mountain bike lockout forks, you can visit the respective brand websites.

Choosing the Right Lockout Fork for Your Mountain Bike

When it comes to mountain biking, having the right equipment can make a significant difference in your riding experience. One important component to consider is the lockout fork. But what exactly is a lockout fork, and how do you choose the right one for your mountain bike? Let’s find out.

Considerations for selecting a lockout fork

When choosing a lockout fork for your mountain bike, there are a few factors to consider:

1. Type of Suspension:  Lockout forks come in different types of suspension, including air, coil, or hybrid (combination of air and coil). Each type has its advantages and disadvantages, so it’s important to choose based on your riding preferences and the type of terrain you’ll be riding on.

2. Travel:  The travel of a lockout fork refers to the maximum distance it can compress and extend. The appropriate travel for your bike depends on the type of riding you’ll be doing. Cross-country riders may prefer shorter travel, while downhill riders may opt for longer travel.

3. Adjustability:  Look for a lockout fork that offers adjustability options, such as rebound damping and compression damping. This allows you to fine-tune the fork to match your riding style and terrain.

Matching the lockout fork to your riding style and terrain

When selecting a lockout fork, it’s important to match it to your riding style and the terrain you’ll be riding on. Here are some recommendations:

1. Cross-Country Riding:  If you enjoy long rides on smoother trails and prioritize efficiency and speed, a lockout fork with shorter travel and lighter weight would be ideal. Look for a fork with adjustable damping to provide a responsive and efficient ride.

2. Trail Riding:  For riders who enjoy a mix of climbs, descents, and challenging terrain, a lockout fork with medium travel and adjustable damping would be suitable. This type of fork provides a balance between efficiency and control.

3. Downhill Riding:  Downhill riders typically require long-travel forks to handle rough and technical terrain. Look for a lockout fork with longer travel, adjustable damping, and robust construction to handle the demands of downhill riding.

Remember to consider your skill level, the aggressiveness of your riding style, and the specific characteristics of the trails you’ll be tackling when choosing a lockout fork for your mountain bike.

By understanding the considerations for selecting a lockout fork and matching it to your riding style and terrain, you can enhance your overall mountain biking experience and ensure optimal performance on the trails.

Installing and Setting up a Lockout Fork

Step-by-step guide for installation.

• Start by removing the front wheel of your mountain bike. This will give you easier access to the fork and make the installation process smoother.
• Depending on the type of lockout fork you have, you may need to remove the top cap or adjuster knob to access the internals of the fork.
• Carefully insert the lockout mechanism into the fork, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure that all components are properly aligned and securely fastened.
• Reinstall the top cap or adjuster knob and tighten it to the manufacturer’s recommended torque specification .
• Replace the front wheel and ensure that it is securely attached to the fork.

Tips for adjusting the lockout fork for optimal performance

• Start by setting the lockout to the fully open position and test the fork’s responsiveness on a trail. Adjust the compression damping to find the desired level of firmness for your riding style.
• Experiment with different settings to find the right balance between comfort and efficiency. A fully locked-out fork can improve pedaling efficiency on smooth surfaces, while a partially open setting can provide better traction on technical terrain.
• It’s a good idea to carry a small multi-tool with you on rides so that you can make on-the-go adjustments to your lockout fork.
• Regularly clean and lubricate the lockout mechanism to ensure smooth operation and prevent any issues from arising.

Installing and setting up a lockout fork on your mountain bike can significantly improve your riding experience, providing better control, comfort, and efficiency on various terrains. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and regularly maintain your fork to keep it performing at its best.

Maintenance and Care

Proper maintenance practices for lockout forks.

To ensure optimal performance and longevity of your lockout fork on a mountain bike, it’s important to practice proper maintenance . Here are some key maintenance practices to keep in mind:

1. Regular Cleaning:  Clean your lockout fork regularly to remove dirt, debris, and any build-up that may affect its performance. Use a mild detergent or bike-specific cleaner and a soft brush to gently remove any grime.

2. Lubrication:  Apply lubrication to the moving parts of your lockout fork, such as the seals and stanchions, to prevent them from drying out or experiencing excessive friction. Use a silicone-based lubricant or a lubricant specifically designed for suspension components.

3. Inspection:  Regularly inspect your lockout fork for any signs of damage, such as leaks, scratches, or worn-out parts. Address any issues promptly to prevent further damage and ensure the safety of your ride.

Common problems and troubleshooting

While lockout forks are generally reliable, they may encounter some common problems. Here are a few issues you may come across and some troubleshooting tips:

1. Fork Not Locking Out:  If your lockout fork is not engaging or locking out properly, check if the lockout lever is fully engaged. Sometimes the lever may get stuck or become loose during rides. Ensure it is in the correct position to activate the lockout.

2. Fork Stuck in Locked Position:  If your lockout fork is stuck in the locked position and does not unlock when you adjust the lever, there may be internal issues with the lockout mechanism. In this case, it’s best to consult a professional bike mechanic for further inspection and repair.

3. Fork Adjustments Not Working:  If you are unable to make adjustments to the compression or rebound settings of your lockout fork, check if the adjustment dials or knobs are damaged or worn out. In some cases, they may need to be replaced.

Remember that proper maintenance and regular inspections are key to keeping your lockout fork in top condition. If you are unsure about any issues or if you encounter more significant problems, it’s always recommended to seek professional assistance from a bike mechanic.

Lockout Forks vs. Non-Lockout Forks

When it comes to choosing a fork for your mountain bike, you may come across the terms “lockout forks” and “non-lockout forks.” Here’s a comparison of their performance and benefits to help you make an informed decision:

Comparison of performance and benefits

Lockout Forks:

• Lockout forks allow riders to lock the fork in a rigid position, minimizing the suspension movement.
• They are ideal for smooth and flat terrain, such as pavement or uphill climbs, where suspension movement is unnecessary and can reduce pedaling efficiency.
• Lockout forks provide a more efficient transfer of power from the rider to the bike, resulting in improved climbing performance and speed on smooth surfaces.
• They offer a firmer and more responsive front end when locked, allowing for better control and handling on rough terrain.

Non-Lockout Forks:

• Non-lockout forks have active suspension that continuously absorbs impacts and provides a smoother ride.
• They excel in technical and challenging terrain, such as rocky descents and rough trails, where suspension travel is crucial for absorbing bumps and maintaining traction.
• Non-lockout forks offer enhanced comfort and control by soaking up vibrations and impacts, reducing rider fatigue and improving overall ride quality.
• They provide maximum traction and control on uneven surfaces, allowing for better handling and cornering performance.

Pros and cons of each option

• Improved pedaling efficiency on smooth surfaces.
• Enhanced control and handling when locked.
• Ideal for road or uphill climbs.
• Limited suspension travel, which may reduce comfort and traction on rough terrain.
• Less effective in absorbing impacts compared to non-lockout forks.
• Active suspension for better comfort and traction on rough terrain.
• Improved ride quality and reduced fatigue.
• Excellent for technical descents and challenging trails.
• Reduced pedaling efficiency on smooth surfaces.
• Potentially more weight and complexity compared to lockout forks.

Overall, the choice between lockout forks and non-lockout forks depends on your riding style, terrain preferences, and personal preferences. If you primarily ride on smooth surfaces and prioritize pedaling efficiency, lockout forks may be a suitable option. On the other hand, if you frequently tackle technical terrain and value comfort and control, non-lockout forks are likely the better choice.

Remember to consider factors such as the type of riding you do, the terrain you encounter, and your budget when making a decision.

Real-world Reviews and Experiences

Feedback from mountain bikers using lockout forks.

Mountain bikers who have used lockout forks have provided valuable feedback about their experiences with this feature. Here are a few real-world reviews:

1. Increased Efficiency:  Many riders have praised lockout forks for their ability to increase efficiency on climbs. By locking out the fork, riders can minimize energy loss and maintain better traction on steep uphill sections.

2. Improved Control:  Several mountain bikers have noted that lockout forks provide enhanced control on technical descents. By reducing fork movement, riders can have a more stable and predictable ride, especially on rough terrain.

3. Customizable Suspension:  Lockout forks often come with adjustable settings that allow riders to fine-tune their suspension according to their preferences and the trail conditions. Cyclists have found this feature valuable in achieving the perfect balance between comfort and efficiency.

4. Lightweight Design:  Lockout forks are generally designed to be lightweight, which is advantageous for riders looking to reduce overall bike weight and enhance agility on the trails.

5. Smooth Transition:  Many riders have lauded the smooth transition between locked and unlocked modes on lockout forks. This convenience allows for quick adjustments on the go, without disrupting the flow of the ride.

It’s important to note that individual experiences may vary, and the effectiveness of lockout forks can depend on factors such as bike setup, rider preference, and trail conditions. Nonetheless, these reviews indicate the overall positive impact of lockout forks on mountain biking performance and enjoyment.

Choosing the right lockout fork for your mountain biking needs

In conclusion, a lockout fork is a valuable feature for mountain bikes that allows riders to adjust the suspension system according to their preference and trail conditions. By locking out the fork, riders can effectively turn their mountain bike into a rigid bike, providing greater efficiency and control on smooth surfaces or when climbing. When unlocked, the fork provides the necessary suspension travel to absorb shocks and impacts when riding on rough terrain.

When choosing a lockout fork for your mountain bike, consider the following factors:

1. Suspension Type:  Decide whether you want an air or coil-sprung fork. Air forks are typically lighter and offer better adjustment options, while coil-sprung forks are often more affordable and durable.

2. Adjustability:  Look for a lockout fork that offers adjustable rebound and compression settings. This allows you to fine-tune the fork’s performance based on your riding style and preferences.

3. Travel:  Consider the amount of suspension travel needed for your riding style and the type of trails you frequent. Longer travel forks are better suited for aggressive downhill riding, while shorter travel forks are more efficient for cross-country and trail riding.

4. Brand and Reputation:  Research reputable brands that are known for producing high-quality lockout forks. Look for user reviews and ratings to gauge the performance and reliability of the fork.

Remember that a lockout fork is just one component of a mountain bike’s overall suspension system. It is important to consider the compatibility of the fork with your bike’s frame and other suspension components.

Overall, a lockout fork can significantly enhance your mountain biking experience by providing greater control and efficiency on a variety of terrains. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced rider, choosing the right lockout fork can greatly improve your ride quality and overall performance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Common queries and answers about lockout forks.

Here are some common questions that individuals often have about lockout forks on mountain bikes:

Q: What is a lockout fork? A: A lockout fork is a feature found on mountain bikes that allows the rider to lock the suspension fork in a more rigid position. This can be beneficial when riding on smooth surfaces or climbing steep hills, as it reduces energy loss from suspension movement.

Q: How does a lockout fork work? A: Lockout forks typically have a lever or switch that the rider can engage to stiffen the suspension. When the lockout is engaged, the fork becomes more rigid, limiting or preventing any movement in the suspension.

Q: When should I use the lockout feature? A: You should use the lockout feature on your fork when riding on smooth surfaces or climbing steep hills. By locking out the suspension, you can improve pedaling efficiency and prevent energy loss from suspension bobbing.

Q: Can I use the lockout feature on rough terrains? A: While the lockout feature is primarily designed for smoother terrains, it can also be used on moderately rough terrains. However, it is important to note that using the lockout feature on very rough terrains can result in less control and a harsher ride.

Q: Are lockout forks necessary? A: Lockout forks are not necessary for all mountain bike riders. They are more commonly found on cross-country or trail bikes where pedaling efficiency is a priority. If you primarily ride on more technical terrains that require responsive suspension, a lockout fork may not be as important.

Q: Do all mountain bikes have lockout forks? A: No, not all mountain bikes have lockout forks. The inclusion of a lockout feature often depends on the specific type and purpose of the bike. Higher-end cross-country or trail bikes are more likely to have lockout forks, while downhill or enduro bikes may not prioritize the feature.

About The Author

Vinson Lozano

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AXA Block XXL ART2 Frame Lock

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Popular trek.

Bontrager Ratchet EXP Spring

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Find us online, trek retailers nearby.

Epic Mountain Gear

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Trek Bicycle Boulder

Store pickup available.

Louisville Cyclery

Trek Bicycle Broomfield

Longmont Bicycle Company

Trek Bicycle Golden

Wheat Ridge Cyclery

Evergreen Bicycle Outfitters

Trek Bicycle Denver Downtown

Cycleton denver .

Campus Cycles

SCHEELS ALL SPORTS

Trek Bicycle Loveland

Wheat Ridge Cyclery at Ken Caryl

Trek Bicycle Fort Collins

Trek Bicycle Highlands Ranch

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Stumptown snowboards, 113 central ave whitefish, mt 59937 (406) 821-4567.

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The north face, 1001 mission street san francisco, ca 94512 (406) 821-4567.

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Backcountry Packing Clinic

Peak skiing 101 will be an informal presentation themed around spring peak skiing \/ ski mountaineering. \r\n\r\nTopics will include gear, trip planning and skill resources.\r\n

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