land rover series 3 road trip

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Inspiring Adventures: Colorado Bucket List Roadtrip by LR3

• Greg Fitzgerald
• Jan 18, 2019

In the early 2000s, Max Thomason saw a photo on the Internet of a Series IIa 88" Land Rover descending Colorado's Black Bear Pass. The truck was teetering precariously on the iconic switchbacks looking over Telluride. He decided that he had to go there and see it for himself. Finally, this past summer, he got the chance, as part of a cross-country road trip from Atlanta to Colorado in his LR3.

He'd tried once before -- three failed attempts in his ex-military Series III 109" to make the westbound journey a few years ago, all of which failed before leaving Atlanta proper. After driving a Toyota 4Runner for several years as his daily adventure-mobile, he was spurred on by his girlfriend to swap it for a Land Rover to complement his Series III. So he picked up an LR3.

After driving it around the area for a few months, he got the urge to break it in, and the first thing that came to mind was conquering Colorado. So he booked the time off and hit up Atlantic British for some parts to prepare. After getting an engine oil filter kit , differential service kit , transfer case service kit , and front and rear brake rebuild kit , it was off to the West.

After swinging through Charlotte, North Carolina to pick up his dad as co-driver and traveling companion, then headed out west via I-70. First stop: Silverton, Colorado, after two days of driving. They started right out on their first trial -- Engineer Pass, up to the top of the pass and back. That first taste of the Colorado mountain passes hooked him.

Their next day was focused on some of the great trails of the Ouray area -- Poughkeepsie Gulch, Mineral Gulch, California Gulch, Picayune Gulch. Then it was the most exciting day of the trip -- finally conquering Black Bear Pass and Imogene Pass, two of America's most famous off-road trails. Finally, Max got the chance to replicate that photo that spurred this adventure on in the first place.

They moved camp to Leadville, Colorado for the end of the trip, hitting Mosquito Pass, Deer Creek, and Santa Fe Creek. Then it was homeward bound to Atlanta in two days -- a nine-day trip in all.

What did Max feel was the inspiration that came out of this adventure? After having seen photos of Series Land Rovers at the Solihull Society's National Rally in Colorado for years, he wanted to take his 109" there badly. But being so far from the off-road meccas of the west, he needed something fast, efficient, and comfortable to make the trek. The trip gave him a sense of accomplishment -- the logistics, the planning, and finally going on a dream trip. He trusts his LR3 now for long trips, and far-away destinations are now achievable road trips, not far-away dreams.

He says that the LR3 is powerful yet efficient. He can tow with it, or get 17-20 miles per gallon on the highway. The air suspension allows a range of utility, from an effective 2-inch lift to a low platform for loading. The traction control negates the need for a locker in most off-road terrain. "Overall, a vehicle that can be comfortable for fifteen-hour days for a week straight, return reasonable fuel economy, be able to haul all of our gear comfortably, and handle the trails easily is a win. Surprisingly, the long wheelbase hasn't been too much of a detriment."

Since his LR3 is all ready to go, the big dream trip to Colorado conquered...the only question left is, "what's next?"

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• Adventure addict. '90s Land Rover daily driver. Historic preservationist. Personal vehicles: 1994 Discovery I, 1994 Range Rover Classic, 1961 Series II 109", 2005 LR3.

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Your classic: land-rover series iii.

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Land rover series iii (1971 – 1985) review.

Land Rover Series III (1971 – 1985) At A Glance

The Land Rover Series III was a masterful facelift overseen by Range Rover designer David Bache of a product that continued to sell well across the world, despite increasingly tough opposition from a number of rivals, most notably Toyota.

Series III improvements are easy to spot thanks to the headlamps being moved to the front wings and updated stylised plastic radiator grille. The updated – more safety conscious – interior and all synchromesh gearbox acknowledged the opposition was catching up, and the arrival of overdrive catered for those who needed their Land Rovers for serious on-road work. Despite this, they were still noisy, cramped and not terribly good on asphalt.

It was during the Series III production in 1979 that the Rover V8 engine (in low compression form) was added to the range. It was export-only at first, but came to the UK to pick up a small but loyal fan base.

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Will a brief lack of lead substitute damage the engine of my series iii land rover, land rover series iii, what does a land rover series iii (1971 – 1985) cost, land rover series iii for sale.

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Rise of the Series III

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1971 series iia 2.5 diesel, 17 june 2024.

The ubiquitous but much overlooked SIII

One man to suggest so is Linden Jackson. Despite being retired, he’s become somewhat of a specialist of late in turning out pin-sharp restorations of Series IIIs. More importantly, he’s finding that buyers today are looking for the model and in show condition.

The time-served Land Rover mechanic started work at PRB Services straight from school, rattling spanners on everything from Pink Panthers, Sandringham Six and 101s “and hundreds of Lightweights,” before moving on, eventually to the Halifax main dealer. Work and hobby combined, as on weekends Linden went trialling, both RTV and Comp Safari, with the Pennine Land Rover Club, something he still does to this day. Moving to Essex saw a stint in a Toyota dealer. “I hated it – the most boring job I’ve had,” he says. “Soulless vehicles that made me realise how much I loved Land Rovers and needed to carry on with them.” Jumping back on the tools for a local Land Rover specialist saw him coax a colleague to build a car and the duo entered the British Off-road Championship. “I’ve always mixed the job with the hobby. Part of that has always been buying, tidying and selling Land Rovers.

“They were brilliant times, and the club was huge. The Comp Safari was buzzing and the RTV trials had probably 50 entries. I love the whole restoration and show scene, but my heart is in off-roading,” he says.

Linden says a canvas top is a huge draw

​​​​​​Linden’s final job before retiring was Essex 4x4, where he was offered a Series III by a friend. “I wasn’t interested, didn’t want it, but went to look at it, and ended up buying it,” he recalls. “It wasn’t in bad condition, so I pulled it apart, repainted it and gave it a good refurb: not a restoration. Then I took it to a local classic car show, where it sold.”

He then did a second one, but much more thoroughly, selling that, too. Colleague Fred saw the potential in the cars, and started doing a few of his own. A friendly rivalry had begun. “The cars evolved from having a little refurb to a full restoration to see who was doing a better job,” smiles Linden. With a lifelong background of working on the model, he discovered a penchant for accuracy, chasing down the correct parts to get them just right.

​​​​​​One significant build for him was a Bronze Green 88in, the first car he admits to really trying hard on – and number 55. “It was probably from the first week of production, so I wanted to get it as close as I possibly could,” Linden points out. He’s turned around six cars now, with each one taking around eight months. He isn’t on them full-time, just putting in a few hours here and there, around retirement, family life and working on his comp safari car.

Linden refuses to restore a SIII with a 2.25 engine

What is significant is they are all Series IIIs, all short wheelbases and all soft tops. I mention engines to Linden. “The two and a quarter diesel is a disaster of an engine, so I don’t touch it. Petrol engines are generally okay, usually just needing fresh fuel to run. They get what they need, like new bearings, timing chain, and so on, but not a full rebuild. The values aren’t high enough yet, so you have to stop at some point,” Linden reasons.

Why specialise in the Series III? “Purely because of that first car,” he says, which he only took because it was the right price. “But I’ve stuck with them as I know them quite well.” Because he had some spares left over from the first, the second car made sense, and so it continued. “I also like the character of these cars, and you don’t see that many restored.

Tan leather is the only non-original part of this build but a beautiful contrast to the paint

Note the toolbox: originality is key to Linden’s builds

New bulkheads and chassis are pretty much obligatory

“I think its time is coming though. The Series I has been around a while as quite an expensive vehicle once restored, but isn’t that easy to live with daily. The SIII is easier to live with and they’re still sitting in fields waiting to be found. The difficulty is getting hold of some of the parts. You try finding a lower dashboard, a rear tub or wings for one, they’re just not out there,” he explains.

One of the rarest parts is the most visible – the front grille. One recent new old stock purchase came from Saudi Arabia. Fortunately Linden now has a good stock of tricky to locate parts.

“There’s always a question of how far do you go? While I have to build them to a budget, I strive to get them as close as I can to factory, and put everything back in the right place – clips, grommets and bulkhead stickers.

Vastly experienced Land Rover mechanic, Linden, is at his happiest when rattling spanners

His first three vehicles went to trade buyers, but after Linden saw the instant premiums they added, he is now selling them himself, mainly through high-end auctions, like Sotheby’s or Bonhams, as increasingly that’s where the buyers are. “There’s a point in the auctions where traders back off and real buyers step in,” Linden says. “It isn’t about the money, just about not giving them away. Your average rivet counters are never going to buy them, they build their own.”

Classic Land Rover buyers have indeed changed with the rising values. They may be Land Rovers fans, but firstly they are likely to be mainstream car collectors. The wider classic marketplace now appreciates the Land Rover; rich in driving character and seen as cool. They’re not cheap cars anymore, and buyers are wealthier people who have a story about the cars from their past they are trying to relive. “This seems to be what they’re getting used for, to make memories of a weekend. Most will garage them as they want to keep them looking like this.” The canvas top is a huge draw. “The driver of something like this looks cooler than his mate in a Defender,” reckons Linden.

Linden’s SIII restorations are fine specimens indeed

We leave the workshop and head out for a drive in one of Jackson’s finished 88in cars, deep in gloss paint and idling like a Swiss watch. Tight-riding, quiet, brimming with character, it’s like no other Series III I’ve ever been in, outside of ROG924R, Land Rover’s Millionth showpiece museum car. Modern radial Goodyear MTR tyres and contrasting tan seats are Linden’s trial towards the desires of the modern buyer, but at the core, the Land Rover is factory-correct, and exemplary. Once this car sells, I’m told the next build is planned to be exactly the same standard, but fully electric.

The forgotten Land Rover? The mainstream car collector now knows it’s the one to have.

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London to Singapore: Epic Family Road Trip in an Old Land Rover

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Could you survive a nine-month road trip with your family? The Hyland family of five drove from London to Singapore in a 1954 Land Rover. They took the family road trip to all new heights!

The Hyland family traveled more than 16,000 miles from London to Singapore from mid-summer 2015 to spring 2016. They managed this feat in a tiny 61-year-old Land Rover found in a Canadian farmer’s field and purchased for $300.

Ray and Marianne Hyland, along with their three teenage boys, not only survived a massive nine-month road trip but thrived in every sense of the word.

As Land Rover celebrates its 70th anniversary this week, let’s have a look at a modern adventure family that fully embraces all things Land Rover.

Land Rover: London to Singapore Expedition

The Hylands set out on this overland journey on the 60th anniversary of the 1956 London to Singapore “Oxford and Cambridge Far Eastern Expedition” in nearly the same exact vehicle. It was the first time a vehicle had traveled the entire route from London to Singapore.

https://youtu.be/V8nQXRpo3AY?t=12

The original route went through England, France, Monaco, Germany, Austria, Yugoslavia, Greece, Turkey, Syria, Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Burma, Thailand, Malaysia, and, finally, Singapore. The trip took six months and six days to complete, traversing 18,000 miles.

The Hylands’ route was a bit different than the original, spanning 16,000 miles. It took them through England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Monaco, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Iran, UAE, India, Burma, Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore.

They couldn’t visit Syria, as it was in the middle of a civil war. But with a huge stroke of luck, Burma had just opened its borders to travelers after many years of civil unrest.

Burma opening its borders was a large impetus to do the trip.

1954 Land Rover Series 1 Station Wagon

The original expedition was done in two 1954 Land Rover Series 1 86-inch Station Wagons. It was the first year Land Rover offered a wagon model.

The Hylands have been a Land Rover family for years, owning a wide range of the brand’s vehicles. They purchased an old Series 1 from a farm in British Columbia, Canada, for just $300 in hopes of getting it back on the road.

After investigating, they learned their vehicle is one of only three 1954 Series 1 Station Wagons known to exist.

The $300 Land Rover was in rough shape when the Hylands got their hands on it. It needed a ton of attention and new parts to make it road worthy again.

Luckily, the family is mechanically capable, and the simple old truck was relatively easy to work on. Besides replacing the bigger parts that were missing or broken, like the doors and windows, the Hylands did just enough to get the old Land Rover running again.

Then, they fixed the other issues as things broke along the journey.

“Our truck was terrible. It broke down every single day,” said Ray Hyland.

They added a few simple, inexpensive upgrades to make the truck slightly more capable of completing the journey ahead of it. They sourced an old Astro Van rear bench seat off Craigslist for $25 so the three boys would have a more comfortable place to sit. General AT2 tires were fitted to better handle the long paved sections of the route while still being durable and capable off-road.

Besides those small modifications, this old Land Rover was the same as the original expedition’s vehicle.

Car Camping Taken to a Whole New Level

The Hylands packed light and small in the underpowered Land Rover. They needed to be comfortable living in a tight space for extended periods of time.

Camp Sleep System

One big way they kept things light, small, and simple was through their chosen sleep/shelter system. They had a Nemo Dagger two-person tent for the adults and a Nemo Galaxi three-person tent for the kids.

They used Nemo Tango backless bags for the kids, and the adults shared a Tango Duo .

To complete the system, they used Nemo Fillo pillows and stuffed Nemo Zor pads under a Nemo Pawprint snap-in tent liner inside the tent. The Pawprint provided the comfort and feel of a fitted sheet.

This lightweight backpacking setup saved the family a ton of weight and valuable storage space.

Cooking along the way was essential to keep costs low and allow for remote camping. The family ate a lot of rice and claim it’s the “ultimate camping food.” It’s nutritious, filling, packs small, doesn’t go bad, and can be combined with a wide variety of other ingredients to make tasty, diverse meals.

Rice can be difficult to cook well in conventional camp pots. Most are really thin, and the rice burns and sticks to the bottom. To get around this issue, the Hylands chose the Snow Peak Aluminum Caldero , a cast aluminum pot with a thick bottom, for more even heating.

This pot is not small, but the Hylands found a perfect out-of-the-way home for it. They stored it on the hood of the tiny Land Rover, inside the spare tire and under the Front Runner grill.

An MSR DragonFly stove heated the big pot. They chose it for its ability to run on various fuels, reliability, and its true simmer function — a critical feature to properly cook rice. While noisy, it also packs up pretty small and is lightweight.

MiiR stainless steel pint glasses , an MSR plate set, and a large Platypus GravityWorks water filter rounded out the cooking kit.

Camp Comfort

Nearly all the Hylands agreed that the most important gear on the trip was the Kermit chairs . These lightweight canvas-on-wood-frame camp chairs pack up small and set up quickly. They provided invaluable comfort for roadside lunch stops and around camp, especially after long days in the hot, cramped little Land Rover.

Personal Items

Each person got to bring two sets of clothes with them: one on their back and one spare. They chose ExOfficio synthetic underwear and tees as well as Clothing Arts pants and shirts. These key pieces are all durable, easy to wash, dry quickly, and are comfortable in a variety of environments.

Each person also got their own small duffel-sized dry bag. That small bag contained all their personal items, including their change of clothes. The personal item dry duffels were strapped to the roof during transit, keeping them out of the tight confines of the Land Rover’s interior and protecting their contents from dust, water, and general road grime.

Old vehicles require lots of tools, spare parts, and fluids to keep them moving. The Hylands managed to pack all their tools, spare parts, and fluids into one Front Runner Wolf Pack . An impressive feat with all that they needed to bring with them!

The old Land Rover leaked so much oil that they needed to continually buy it in bulk along the route. And it didn’t fit in the Wolf Pack. The leaks got so bad that they resorted to using thicker and thicker oil, eventually getting 50-weight oil in gallon jugs from agriculture shops.

All About the People

While the trip was about family and retracing an iconic expedition’s path, the people the Hylands met on the way profoundly impacted them. The family made the conscious decision to trust people on this trip, and it worked out.

They had no issues with theft, bribery, or muggings. Iran offered up some of the best remote camping and friendliest people of the entire route.

Besides all the generous, smiling people they randomly bumped into, they also regularly reached out for help online. Facebook was an amazing tool to connect with Land Rover groups, overland travelers, and mechanics on their route.

The hospitality of random strangers was something to behold. They stayed in a free villa for a week in Dubai. They even started the trip with free use of a Land Rover Defender 110 in England when their truck was delayed in shipping.

If you want to know more about this amazing journey and inspiring family, be sure to check out the NW Overland Rally and BC Overland Rally . The Hyland family runs these gatherings of the overland tribe and regularly spins amazing adventure stories around the campfire.

On occasion, they’ve also been known to show up with their little old 1954 Series 1 Land Rover Station Wagon. The truck has now traveled most of the way around the globe and still runs — sometimes.

Bryon Dorr is the Motors Editor of GearJunkie. He has been writing about overland travel, off-road vehicles, general automotive, whitewater kayaks, and outdoor and travel gear for 12+ years. He has created content for a wide range of outdoor, automotive, and travel media outlets, both online and in print, as well as for a wide range of commercial clients as a photographer, social media marketer, business consultant, and copy editor.

After living on the road for nearly eight years, he is now based in Portland, Ore. Bryon is an avid kayaker, cyclist, skier/snowboarder, runner, and photographer. When not outdoors doing human-powered adventures, you’ll find him behind the wheel or bars of something with a motor and wheels finding adventure around the globe. You can keep up with his life of adventure on your favorite social media @ExplorElements .

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Land Rover Series III (1971 to 1985)

The Land Rover Series III was introduced in 1971. The Series III was the last generation of the original Land Rover built before the model was rebranded as the Land Rover Defender . The Series III featured a raft of upgrades over its production, helping create variants that were better equipped for passenger comfort, although the Land Rover was still the incredibly capable off-road vehicle it had always been. Production of the Series III Land Rover ended in 1985.

Q: What is the top sale price of a Land Rover Series III?

A: The highest recorded sale was $93,500 for a 1980 Land Rover Defender 110 on Oct 17 2020.

Q: What was the lowest recorded sale price for a Land Rover Series III?

A: The lowest recorded sale price was $800 for a 1976 land rover 109 sw series iii on Aug 6 2022.

Q: What is the average sale price of a Land Rover Series III?

A: The average price of a Land Rover Series III is $22,574.

Q: What years was the Land Rover Series III sold?

A: The Land Rover Series III was sold for model years 1971 to 1985.

Model years for Land Rover Series III (1971 to 1985)

Showing 24 of 411 related listings

1972 Land Rover Series 3 Hardtop Diesel

Lot 13810: 1972 Land Rover Series 3 Hardtop Diesel

• Location: Jacksonville, FL, USA
• Originality: Original & Highly Original  Vehicles that are original or close to original factory specifications, irrespective of condition. May include vehicles that have minor, removable modifications such as aftermarket wheels, exhaust, or accessories such as cargo/roof rack, stereos, etc.
• Transmission: Manual
• Driver side: LHD

1973 Land Rover 88 Series III

Lot 151134: 1973 land rover 88 series iii.

• Location: Mountain View, California, USA

1979 Land Rover 88 Series III Lightweight Diesel

Lot 151271: 1979 land rover 88 series iii lightweight diesel.

• 98,000 km (60,894 mi) TMU
• Location: Eden, UT, USA

1978 Land Rover Series III 88 Pick up

Lot 84969249: 1978 land rover series iii 88 pick up.

• 58,000 km (36,040 mi)
• Location: BEL

1972 Land Rover 109 Serie III

Lot 85257799: 1972 land rover 109 serie iii.

• 63,853 km (39,676 mi) TMU
• Location: NLD
• Originality: Modified  Vehicles with a period-correct engine and body, with multiple removable modifications, or a few significant modifications such as increased displacement, added performance equipment (turbo, supercharger, headers), transmission swaps, bumpers, or body wraps. Modified vehicles can generally be returned to original factory specifications.

1972 Land Rover Series III LWB Pickup

Lot 6632-dfw: 1972 land rover series iii lwb pickup.

• 60,074 mi TMU
• Location: Fort Worth, TX, USA
• Driver side: RHD

1979 Land Rover Series III

Lot 19184-pc: 1979 land rover series iii.

• 99,400 km (61,764 mi) TMU
• Location: Denver, Colorado, USA

1973 Land Rover 88 Series

Lot 17302-pc: 1973 land rover 88 series.

• Location: Elyria, Ohio, USA

1973 Land Rover Series III

Lot a1719: 1973 land rover series iii.

• Location: Los Angeles, California, USA

1980 Land Rover Series 3

Lot tpa2813: 1980 land rover series 3.

• Location: Hillsborough County, Florida, USA

1980 Land Rover 109 V8

Lot 85284741: 1980 land rover 109 v8.

• 90,209 km (56,053 mi)

1983 Land Rover Series III 109" by Coolnvintage

Lot 29532: 1983 land rover series iii 109" by coolnvintage.

• 744 km (462 mi) TMU
• Location: LUX
• Originality: Custom  Highly modified and/or Restored vehicles with uprated, non-period correct engine swaps, or engines from outside the original manufacturer, and/or vehicles with significant body customizations or conversions. Generally, Custom vehicles cannot be easily returned to their original factory specifications.

1982 Land Rover Series III 88"

Lot 29339: 1982 land rover series iii 88".

• 80,363 mi TMU
• Location: London, GBR

1983 Land Rover Series 3 88"

Lot 3d65: 1983 land rover series 3 88".

• 41,175 mi TMU
• Location: Oxfordshire, GBR

Lot 150219: 1973 Land Rover 88 Series III

• 81,000 mi TMU
• Location: Town of Southold, New York, USA

Lot 82304127: 1980 Land Rover 109 V8

Lot 29128: 1982 Land Rover Series III 88"

• Location: Winchester, GBR

1979 Land Rover 109 Series III

• 56,665 mi TMU
• Location: New Canaan, Connecticut, USA

Lot 7c10: 1982 Land Rover Series III 88"

• 40,021 mi TMU

Lot 669c: 1983 Land Rover Series 3 88"

1973 Land Rover 88 Series 3

Lot 83306909: 1973 land rover 88 series 3.

• 9,947 km (6,181 mi) TMU

1978 Land Rover 109

Lot atl2440: 1978 land rover 109.

• Location: Cumming, Georgia, USA

1983 Land Rover Series III 88 Deluxe

Lot 83805211: 1983 land rover series iii 88 deluxe.

• 21,922 km (13,622 mi) TMU
• Location: ITA

1976 Land Rover Series III 88”

Lot 28597: 1976 land rover series iii 88”.

• 14,725 mi TMU

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Home » ROAD TEST – SERIES 3 LAND ROVER

ROAD TEST – SERIES 3 LAND ROVER

Classics World’s Paul Wager test drives and reviews the Series 3 Land Rover…

As anyone with even half an ear to the classic car grapevine will know, since production of the Defender ended last year values of the iconic go-anywhere vehicle have radpily headed upwards.

As ever, the Defender has tended to pull the values of the earlier models up behind it, meaning that if you want an honestly priced example they’re getting harder to find, especially the ‘Series’ models.

We found this example at Gloucestershire dealer Mather where it looked very much at home nestled between an early four-door Range Rover and a Bentley Brooklands, its matt green paintwork giving it a no-nonsense military vibe.

In truth, despite its appearance it’s not a military Landy but hails from civvy street and is an example of the Series 3 Land Rover immediately preceding the 90 and 110 models which were the Defender in all but name.

Introduced in 1971, the Series 3 retained the traditional Land Rover appearance which had been introduced with the wing-mounted headlights back in 1968, although the mesh grille was replaced with a plastic item.

Underneath, the leaf-sprung suspension was little changed from the Series 1 and the ‘two-and-a-quarter’ petrol engine was continued little changed, although it received a five-bearing crank in 1980.

This was an era when the Land Rover was a cash cow for British Leyland and was woefully starved of investment, its continued sales proving the worth of the original design’s elegant simplicity.

This particular example dates from 1983 and despite its lack of showy additions often seen on later Defenders like tinted windows, bull bars and roof tents, it’s been the recipient of thousands in expenditure in recent years before the previous owner was forced to sell by a work posting to Australia.

It’s all been spent where it matters, with the chassis being sound and solid and the running gear being particularly well sorted. The Series 3 sports a set of later seats which are a massive upgrade in comfort and the canvas tilt has been recently replaced by a quality Exmoor item.

ON THE ROAD Although the instruments were repositioned in front of the driver and a plastic padded dash rail was introduced, the Series 3 is still the same spartan Landy inside – and, it has to be said, all the better for it. The door’s simple slam lock needs a hefty pull to close it and the window is a simple sliding affair like the Mk1 Mini, while Land Rovers of this vintage still sported the functional vent flaps below the screen.

Before I set off in the Land Rover, Ben Mather commented that it was one of the best-driving examples he’d tried and he’s right. The 2.25-litre Rover lump isn’t exactly a paragon of refinement but this one proved surprisingly smooth in use, making the Land Rover easier to drive than the average Series 3. A look under the front showed it to be the military-spec ‘blue top’ unit, complete with what looks like a new Zenith carburettor.

The gearbox is as vague as Series Land Rovers always are, but with a bit of practice it becomes familiar and the brakes worked better than most ’80s Land Rovers I’ve experienced.

Those road tyres might not help when things get muddy but on tarmac they do make the Land Rover easier to keep on the straight and narrow than the big knobblies so often fitted for looks.

One thing I’d have to change though is the chains fitted to restrain the tailgate, which no doubt do the job admirably but jangle loudly over road bumps. A simply plastic sleeving over the chain would probably silence things but if that’s all you can find to complain about in a 34 year-old Land Rover then things are looking good.

VERDICT As we said, Land Rover values have been on the up for a while and Mather is asking just £6000 for this one which is an ideal compromise between vintage looks and modern driving ability. Certainly it needs nothing doing to it before pressing it into use – and with the top off and the screen folded down, there’s no better summer fun vehicle.

TECH SPEC Engine: 2286cc Power: 70 bhp Top speed: 66 mph Fuel consumption: 35 mpg Gearbox: four-speed manual

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questions about owning series IIa or III

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I am looking for some advice. My car just died and I am on the search for a daily driver and I have been looking at the series IIa and III short wheel base (88) as possible options. I live in Maine and I am an avid skier so I find myself driving long distances in snow storms to catch the powder so I guess my first questions is if I am dreaming owning a series land rover for my primary car? -I hate to ask this question but what kind of gas mileage should I expect to get? -if I am concerned with gas mileage should I be looking for diesel or gas models? -are there good tricks to improve gas mileage? -how reliable are these engines at starting in sub-zero temps? I obviously don’t know much info so if you guys could help me out that would be great!!  

beano158 said: I am looking for some advice. My car just died and I am on the search for a daily driver and I have been looking at the series IIa and III short wheel base (88) as possible options. I live in Maine and I am an avid skier so I find myself driving long distances in snow storms to catch the powder so I guess my first questions is if I am dreaming owning a series land rover for my primary car? An 88" with a good tune up might push mid to low 20mpg -I hate to ask this question but what kind of gas mileage should I expect to get? -if I am concerned with gas mileage should I be looking for diesel or gas models? A diesel is really slow for pick up however the gas mileage is much better. -are there good tricks to improve gas mileage? I got an electronic ignition for my 109, you could get an overdrive or a high speed transfer case from ashcroft (my dream someday). They use to have a header kit and an upgraded carb but I wouldn't want to try it. Check out www.lrfaq.org/series and seach around, they mention performance upgrades such as adding a 2.5L cam to a 2.25l petrol engine. -how reliable are these engines at starting in sub-zero temps? With a good battery, mine always started, if it did not I could and did use the hand crank. I obviously don’t know much info so if you guys could help me out that would be great!! Click to expand...

It's a IIA for me. VanIsle Land Rover Network: Articles Daily driver for 6 of the 10 years I've had her. Over 100,000 miles. She isn't far off 500,000 the nearest I can make out. I've changed the speedo a couple times so odo isn't correct. Motor blew up with over 1/4 million miles on it (maybe 350,000?) and I've rebuilt the tranny (poorly it seems). For 4 years I had her in a shop doing ground up repairs and have just got her back on the road this summer, then quickly went on a 3900 mile excursion for a shake down cruise. Got back Sunday night from a nine hundred mile cruise over the weekend to go to a Land Rover challenge event in Oregon. (Google North West Challenge Land Rover) Other people come on the web forums asking what spare parts they should take with them on 100 mile trips. II or III? My Series IIA has a hand held GPS mounted right in front of the steering wheel as my speedo. I don't need no padded dash, nor an all syncro gearbox. Everything else is essentially the same. Fuel? 2.25 petrol engine on a 109 Station Wagon, I drive it hard and get about 14 -15 mpg imperial, more sensible driving brings in about 19-20 mpg imperial with 87 octane, better with higher octane but it costs more.  

beano158 said: I am looking for some advice. My car just died and I am on the search for a daily driver and I have been looking at the series IIa and III short wheel base (88) as possible options. I live in Maine and I am an avid skier so I find myself driving long distances in snow storms to catch the powder so I guess my first questions is if I am dreaming owning a series land rover for my primary car? "PRIMARY" You better know how top turn a wrench, may have a hard time finding a garage that will touch it depending on where you are? Long distance driving will leave you with a sore butt. That said, I have done 4000 mile road trips and enjoyed it. -I hate to ask this question but what kind of gas mileage should I expect to get? Anywhere from 12 to 20 depending on carb and tune and how fast you drive and if it has an overdrive. -if I am concerned with gas mileage should I be looking for diesel or gas models? If you think the gas is slow, drive a deisel. -are there good tricks to improve gas mileage? Tune -how reliable are these engines at starting in sub-zero temps? Good battery and tune it shouldn't be a problem, mine does fine. I obviously don’t know much info so if you guys could help me out that would be great!! Click to expand...

I drove a '71 2A 88 daily for seven years, but it was only a year old when I bought it. I have a '64 88 and a '70 109 now, but need 5 more to have one on any given day. They are cold in the winter, hot in the summer, and wet all year long, but they're fun all the time too. Reliable? That's directly proportional to your mechanical abilities.  

I drove Series Rovers as DD from about 75 to 2000. Both SIII and IIa's. Personally I prefer IIa's. I never hesitated to drive 500 - 1000 miles on one. Have driven in very foul VT winters, and driven from VT to NJ in blizzards. Reading peoples' posts over the years on various forums, most Series owners these days are seem to be either too wimpy, spoiled by new cars, or scared to drive them as DD's or on long trips. Or in too much of a hurry. There are a few of us diehards left though. Keep in mind as far as comfort level/amenities , even the SIII's are basically a car design from 1948.  

My Series III 109" wagon with a 2.25L diesel and overdrive is my daily driver (10-12K a year) and I agree with all said above. I trust that ole thing to get me anywhere, anytime (though I have rebuilt much of it). It really is a labor of love (and noise, and stink, and hot in summer, and cold in winter, and oil leaking out while water leaks in). But I love my 109". She gets about (+/-) 20 mpg on diesel and less on B99 bio fuel. Starts everytime with ease...even in winter (though it is not start and go...start and warm up...then drink another cup of coffee...then go). Maine winters are brutal (I lived there for years) and I had a Jeep Wrangler at the time. My 109" is far leakier and moody than my Jeep ever was...but I would never go back. You had better be quite handy and hot blooded to run a series as a daily driver in Maine winters. Are you the man you think you are? This will certainly be the test. My 109" needs constant love..but she has never left me on the side of the road stranded. Okay...so coasting into the pub parking lot with a leaking coolant hose doesn't count as stranded. Two pints and some duct tape got me back on the road home. If you do choose a series...do not buy in the northeast / rust belt unless it has a new galvanized chassis. I live out here in rust free southern oregon and there are nice rust free rigs running about. Look nationally for a nice truck...it will be worth the added money up front. Data point: a local guy just sold his tip top / turn key Series IIa 88" hard top for $5000. I just put new door tops on this week...should help keep some of the rain out. But the sadistic side of me is looking forward to those frozen puddles of water on the floor again this winter that make double clutching my Siia gear box even more exciting. Heater? What heater? I feel blessed just to have the wipers working when it rains or snows!! All this said...my wife thinks I'm nuts and much prefers her Range Rover Classic. Choose wisely...  

All righty Depending on what you do to your truck. Your looking at 15 mpg on a good day. D2 Discovery 2 are great trucks for when the weather turns. I am yet to get mine stuck or even use 4x4. BE PREPARD TO FIX HER! they are little girls when it comes to parts. You need to be ready to spend 1,000 right off the bat. If your looking for a year 2004 is great year. The computer problems have been fixed by then. MAKE SURE IT HAS THE SERVICE DETAILS! My email is [email protected] I will be willing to help you out the best that i can. Paul  

LR99FL, he's looking at Series Land Rovers, not Discoveries.  

Daily Driver since 1973 It can be done. We bought our 72SIII new in Chicago, drove it up here to Alaska and have been plowing snow and commuting with it ever since. 12-15 mpg. I figured the cost of ownership since new. Almost exactly 1.00/day. Including a reman Turner engine 15 years ago, a reman Rovers North Tranny and a new Turner Stage I this last month. Plus 2 BBl Weber, headers, 7ft snow plow etc. It has started at -25F but it takes a while. We park it next to a river and snowmachine up the river to our cabin. We use a propane catalytic heater (about 2,500 btu) and pile up snow around the sides and cover the engine with a space blanket. Installed a Mojave auxiliary heater under the driver seat and it will get HOT in there! Biggest problem so far is the speedo cable--they snap at -20 or so. Regular and meticulous maintenance is the key. Make sure you know the condition of the bulkhead. Outs is almost free of rust and we grind off any rust and re-paint every five years or so. Also using Dynamat for insulation (sound and temp). Have fun and get a good set of sockets.  

Great resource in Maine Call Trevor at roverfarm.com. he has been a reliable source for me over the last couple years and i live on the other side of the country. Much more helpful and friendly than our local potato chip. No idea where you are, but he is in Princeton. My guage reads kilometers, but doing the math, i get about 25mpg on my series III Diesel Pickup. Good luck,  

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Landrover series 3 off road potential?

By JB90 April 19, 2010 in Series Forum

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I am currently restoring a petrol 1983 landrover series 3 and am looking at purchasing another series 3 but diesel to go off roading in i am going to uni next year and am studying off road vehicle design and am looking for a cheap, capable off roader to drive. Restoring the current series has given me a vast knowledge on the running of the series vehicle and am wondering what the series is like off road.

I have looked at parts for them to try and better the performance off road and have also looked at disc brake conversions. I am looking for some help on how well they perform off road compared to say a defender? as there is no centre diff lock does this put series at a great disadvantage to defenders having only driven defenders off road so far i cannot compare as my current series as it is still in pieces.

Any comments will be a great help.

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Apart from the better engine of the later models, better suspension, and comfort - I would say that there's not all that much difference between the two.

Retroanaconda

The only thing that I would be wary of would the drum brakes and their adverse dislike of mud et all. The newer models' disc brakes mean stopping doesn't get 'fun' after off-roading.

Other than that they should do admirably.

Orgasmic Farmer

.......... I am looking for some help on how well they perform off road compared to say a defender? as there is no centre diff lock does this put series at a great disadvantage to defenders having only driven defenders off road so far i cannot compare as my current series as it is still in pieces. Any comments will be a great help. Cheers Jack

It doesn't need a difflock in the same way as a defender as when it is in 4WD it is the same as having the centre diff locked on the later permenant 4WD models. All Selectable 4WD type motors (Hilux, Suzuki, L200 etc all work in the same way as the series. I would be tempted to say that in many peoples hands it will perform better than a defender since many people I have been out with think of the difflock as somehing special to get you out of trouble and only use it when its already too late. This won't ever happen with a series truck. Stick an ARB difflock in the rear axle of the series to counter the limited articulation and it will be unstopable.

Not sure if I am misunderstanding you, apologies if I am.

Series land rovers don't have a centre diff lock (they don't have a centre diff at all..which is why they have to be driven in 2WD on road) but they do have a transfer box lock which forces the front wheels and back wheels to turn at the same speed (which will do the same as a diff lock)

See this video from about 55 seconds on...

FridgeFreezer

A Series is about the same as a Defender all told, the Defender has longer travel suspension, disc brakes, PAS and a more powerful engine as standard. However, all of these things and more can be applied to a Series so it's all much of a muchness.

Ultimately the Defender was an update of the Series, so there's very little you can do with one that can't be done with the other.

My 109 does pretty well as an all-rounder, which is why I built it.

i started with a S3 with a TD fitted was fine but after making a bit of a mess hitting a tree i went for a S3 2 1/4 petrol so much better off road as the power was there a lot quicker all i did was fit 235/85/16's and a bit of plastic behind the fan to stop it throwing water over the distributer and leads(worked well)

So a series looks like a good idea, will parabolics with new shock absorbers be alot better than standard suspension set up. And will the standard series petrol engine be as good as the series diesel engine off road, dealing with water and mud etc.

My current series is a 88" and so will the next one.

My understanding is that parabolics can improve articulation as there is less metal to twist and rub compared to the design of a standard leaf spring. I think the best setup for ultimate leaf-sprung articulation is parabolics with revolver shackles.

Some research to do with people at work with parabolics and the one person with standard springs.

What can be done for extra lift as there dont seem to be any leafs offering a great amount of lift. Possibly lift the suspension mounts? with spacers maybe.

Also with the disc brake conversion would just front conversion be sufficient or both front and rear? and also any kit suggestion i have found one and am finding out prices.

Parabolics often give a mild lift. Further to this the military 109 chassis have extended spring hangers and shackles (as do One Ton examples). For a big lift, you could consider putting the springs over the axle rather than them remaining underneath.

The problem with any lift however, is that it affects your centre of gravity. I would suggest you seriously consider whether or not it is worth the extra time and expense to go beyond the parabolic "lift".

As for disc brakes. I don't know much about these conversion kits. From what little I've gathered from people I know who have looked into it, it is very very expensive. It's something I've never felt would be a problem - but I tend not to have my 88 axle deep in mud or silt.

Soren Frimodt

An 88" is generally a very capable offroader in my experience. It has four major advantages over any defender: 1. being the weight, it's about 500 kilo's lighter which is a lot. 2. Being it's narrow axle width, though sometimes being a disadvantage, often it gives you better traction as you drive on the "edges" of the ruts that all the coilers make. 3. being a shorter and narrower body than, say a ninety, gives you more room in the ditches and especially in the woods. And the 4. being a lower centre of gravity due to the low mounted engine/trans.

Add a mild lift, some 900x16 tires, two lockers, some sort of PAS and some anti-wrap bars and you got yourself one h*** of an offroader!

This is all stuff that's been covered numerous times before - in the last month people have asked more than once about PAS and disc brakes and been pointed to good threads about fitting both as DIY projects.

I have to say, the best cheap & cheerful off-roader available currently is either Range Rover or Disco V8 because they are so common and so cheap (no-one wants the fuel bill). They have a good wheelbase, flexy suspension, PAS, discs, a powerful engine with a decent gearbox, comfy seats, working heater, etc.

However, they hit their limits faster as they have more bodywork to damage, weigh more, have a big arse, and have limited space for bigger tyres as standard. All can be overcome though, it's six of one and half a dozen of the other.

If you look at how people's trucks evolve - people either buy a RR/Disco and gradually make it more like a buggy, or buy a Series/Defender and try to add features from the RR/Disco such as a V8, PAS, discs, creature comforts, etc. so whichever end you come from, you end up in a very similar place.

All of this depends very much on what you want - do you want the character of a Series, a disposable mud-plugger, or the best offroader you can build for a given budget?

I fitted parabolics to mine and in my opinion it was a vast improvement. Yes you do get bounced around when driving off-road, but that's part of the fun of it.

I have looked through other threads that cover disc conversions and PAS systems, and they have been of help to help my decision. With fitting parts from other vehicles to a series chassis, what if any differentials will fit onto a series chassis to allow a diff to be fitted that already has disc's installed, and would just the swivel housing and disc brake mountings fit onto the standard series diff?

I have looked through other threads that cover disc conversions and PAS systems, and they have been of help to help my decision. With fitting parts from other vehicles to a series chassis, what if any differentials will fit onto a series chassis to allow a diff to be fitted that already has disc's installed, and would just the swivel housing and disc brake mountings fit onto the standard series diff? Jack

You mean axles, not differentials. Diffs are the middle bit that change the direction of drive and let you go round corners, axles are the whole assembly with a wheel on each end, etc. Just to confuse things, the Americans call the halfshafts "axles".

Axle swaps are a subject of great debate, anything can be made to fit but it's a question of time, money, and effort. Coiler axles (that is, Defender, Discovery, Range Rover) are close, and many have fitted them, but they bring a few issues - you need to either put leaf-spring mounts on them, or convert the Series to coil-springs (at which point you may as well have started with a Defender). The steering rods are in a different place, and the diffs are higher ratio. Anything can be changed, but again - time, money, effort.

Axles such as Toyota Land Cruiser and Nissan Patrol are a good option - they are much stronger than Rover, usually have disc brakes, sometimes have locking diffs, and are not necessarily any harder to adapt to a vehicle than land Rover coiler axles. Ratios vary but are often more favourable such as 4.11:1.

A step further you have portal axles - Volvo C303 & Unimog being the popular choices. I run Volvo C303 axles with a disc brake conversion and frankly they're awesome. You gain ~5" ground clearance, difflocks in both axles, the gearing is dropped which helps keep good gear ratios on big tyres, and they're massively strong. 40" tyres are no problem. Volvos are not a lot heavier than normal Land Rover axles. Unimog axles are more easily & cheaply found but weigh as much as the moon and are trickier to fit.

As a comparison:

Left: Standard 110 on 7.50R16 (31") tyres (~30cm ground clearance under diff)

Middle: My 109 on 37" tyres & portals (~50cm ground clearance under diff)

Right: Unimog on ~44" tyres (Probably knocking on 70cm ground clearance!)

Anyway, this subject could go on forever so if you have a target in mind (be it budgetary, capability, or whatever) then perhaps you could tell us so we can offer some more targeted advice.

Well as i am a student budget will be the biggest limiting factor time i have plenty of during my 3 month holiday before uni, and not really limited by equipment with my dad owning a tube bending and welding company.

The series has about 20cm of clearance at the moment and i have looked at taller tyres so that will lift it a bit. Im not looking for a top end off roader just one that i can tackle off roading in. Would putting the leaf springs ontop of the axels help at all or just knock the centre of gravity out giving an unstable ride?

One other question what width tyres will i be able to turn without power steering?

Depends how strong you are and how much you're willing to risk the steering box going bang if you heave the wheel at standstill. Choice of tyres entirely depends on the terrain you're likely to encounter. I favour narrow skinny tyres, others like to go as monster-truck sized as possible.

Well as i am a student budget will be the biggest limiting factor

OK, can you give a rough idea of your budget?

Im not looking for a top end off roader just one that i can tackle off roading in.

You can tackle off-roading very well in a bog standard Series, or Freelander, or anything else for that matter. A set of mud tyres will make the single biggest difference, 235/85R16 or similar is about as big as you want to go on a stock Series to avoid breakages and other issues.

Would putting the leaf springs ontop of the axels help at all or just knock the centre of gravity out giving an unstable ride?

This is called spring-over-axle (SOA) and is common in the states. It does bring other issues with it - propshaft lengths/angles, centre of gravity, spring wrap, steering joint angles, etc. and

That very much depends - the size I quoted (235/85R16) you should be able to heft about without too much aggro, I ran my 109 on that size for a few years. I've driven a few thousand miles on 36-37" tyres (9.00R16 and 255/100R16) with no PAS and that certainly built the arm muscles up.

To be honest, if you're looking at PAS and disc brakes then you may just as well start off with a cheap Defender or Range Rover/Disco, if you old man can bend tube then you're probably better off taking a RR, ditching the bodywork and doing something like Nick's Rogue Vogue than you are trying to alter the oily bits of a Series.

TheRecklessEngineer

I think the biggest mistake that people new to off roading and landrovers make is to strap as many extras to their vehicles as they can.

Really, replacing axles/diffs etc won't make a whole load of difference to a vehicle that was designed to be driven off road in the first place. It is quite staggering what a simple 4wd system will tackle with no modification.

My advice would be to get a series, do nothing to it, and take it for a drive off road. Once you have an idea of what it is capable of in standard form, you can start changing bits to make the vehicle do what you want it to.

Too many people go strapping on big suspension/big tyres - ultimately because it is fashionable in the off roading world. Gentle off roading/green laning does not require this. Certainly I've been down green lanes in the landy I could have driven in my Volvo saloon.

Wise words James, wise words

I have a 'stock' S3 Diesel 2.25 and the only upgrades it has are 7.50x16 tyres and its perfectly capable off road.

I'm currently changing the engine to a 200TDi only because the old lump is shot and I wanted something a little more modern - initially its going to be a 200Di, so power won't be up a huge amount on stock either.

9 times out of 10, its the driver that makes the error and its not vehicle capability you should just consider ! You only need to look on Youtube to see what happens when a perfectly capable vehicle is driven by someone less capable....

Amen to James & Peter.

A friend once told me "You will never have more fun than your first off-roader, because the more you modify the less you have to think" and it's quite true. I took the Freelander marshalling and it was a hoot trying to get it round the site with skinny road tyres, no ground clearance and only front-wheel drive. Everything was a challenge, everything required more thought & skill to get through and you had to read the ground with a microscope.

Amen to James & Peter. A friend once told me "You will never have more fun than your first off-roader, because the more you modify the less you have to think" and it's quite true.

by heck that is soooooo true,

I bet if alot of those people were put into a standard leafer or 90 and told to drive an RTV they;d rack up a right cricket score!

There is (IMHO) no better way to learn to drive offroad than to start off with a standard motor and actually LEARN the skills of reading the ground and understanding the limits of the vehicle and the tricks to get past those. Then decide what you like and dont like and modify the vehicle to keep up with your own improving skills - not the other way round.

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