visit kibera slum

Visiting the Kibera slums in Kenya

By Joan Torres 20 Comments Last updated on April 4, 2024

As soon as you start wandering around the slums of Kibera, and suddenly find yourself surrounded by dozens of children who can speak a perfect English, you realize that Kibera is different from the rest of the slums found in Africa, Asia and even Latin America.

Though this Nairobi district happens to be one of the poorest and dirtiest in Africa, a high and rigorous investment in education makes Kibera one of the slums with the highest level of hope.

What are the Kibera slums?

Remember to get travel insurance for Kibera I strongly recommend IATI Insurance as it has COVID-19 coverage + 5% discount Get your 5% discount if purchasing via this link

Kibera is an extremely poor suburb of Nairobi composed of over 1 million inhabitants spread across an area of only 2.5 square kilometers.

It’s classified as the second largest shanty-town in the world (after Johannesburg’s slums in South Africa), but this is often disputed.

Its origin dates back to 1900, when British colonists decided that Africans should live segregated from Europeans in the city outskirts.

The Brits also decided to separate Africans by ethnicity, and Kibera was the settlement where N ubian soldiers were assigned to.

During the following decades, Kibera evolved into a slum, and what started as a tiny settlement of only 600 inhabitants, became a suburb one million people. Today, Kibera is a suburb where poverty is a reality and can be seen at every corner. The unemployment rate is around 80%, only 20% of the population has access to electricity, and proper toilet facilities are practically non-existent. There are drug problems, especially with glue sniffing, issues with alcohol and HIV affects about 20% of the population . Endless piles of trash and garbage are all over the place.

The high investment in education provides this place with hope

I’m going to tell you the story of a man called Richard who I met when I was living and working in Dubai.

We were working in the same company and he was the director of an important department. Actually, he was Kenyan and was born and raised in the Kibera slums.

How could a man who was raised in the most extreme African poverty become the director of a European international company? The poor people in Kenya believe that there are two elements which are essential for having a better life: God and education .

Having a good education becomes one of the basics pillars for any Kenyan, and Kibera is no exception. Here, all kids speak perfect English and go to school until they become adults.

But education is not only limited to school and learning English, History and Mathematics.

Even at home, parents don’t allow their children to come back home from school until they finish their homework.

They value education over everything else and that’s why they are willing to pay anything from the few resources they have, in order to provide their children with a better education.

There are many Kenyans like Richard, and these people are a clear example of how the power of a good education  can uplift someone even from the most extreme poverty.

Kibera is different and you realize this as soon as you start talking with its people.

How is life in the shanty-town of Kibera?

The suburb has an extension of 2.5 square kilometers.

There’s a main road which runs through the middle of it and is the center of social life.

On each site of the road, you’ll find the residential area, which consists of thousands of shacks built with no apparent order and compose a  labyrinth of streets and lanes.

There’s a stream which passes through the main road perpendicularly and a train track that runs through the northern section.

There are shit loads of garbage everywhere and the hygienic conditions are awful.

You can feel that most of the people are unemployed, since no matter which day of the week you go, you find thousands of people doing nothing.

The food stalls serve basically French fries fried in black oil.

One of the main business over there is selling coal, which confirms that people have no electricity.

The life in this suburb couldn’t be worse but still, Kenyans greet you, smile at you and you can feel some sort of festive atmosphere.

African music can be heard from almost everywhere and you see people dancing to it.

The girls still wanna look pretty, and salons are packed with women who come to perfect their African braids.

This is the reason why I love Africa so much.

Is it safe to visit the slums of Kibera on your own?

For years, there have been reports of people getting kidnapped and violent crimes. However, this is something of the past, and today the neighborhood is completely safe.

Before going there, I just tried to make sure of it with my Kenyan friend, Denis, who I used to work with.

He told me that i n the worse case, someone would steal your phone or your wallet, and the only advice he gave me was that I should never accept anyone’s invitation to his house.

There were two types of locals. Those ones who kindly welcomed you and those hostile to you. All kids were pretty nice and real curious about the country where I came from.

Going on a safari? Check this out: How to a safari in Kenya on a budget

I had already walked through the whole main road, had seen the river and the train tracks. Now I was curious to explore the residential area. I left the road, crossed the bridge and walked into the l abyrinth of streets. At the entrance, there was a woman:

– Woman:  Where are you going?

– Yo:  Just going for a walk

–  Woman : Please, don’t get lost

– Yo:  Why are you saying that?

– Woman :  Just don’t get lost. It could be dangerous

– Yo:  And what’s the danger exactly?

–  Woman :  Just don’t get lost

Why did she have to talk in that creepy and mysterious way? OK, I’ll try not to get lost.

I went in, started walking and I quickly realized how easy it was to become disorientated.

There were multiple routes leading into different places. It was a tremendous labyrinth.

I decided to walk very slowly and carefully. Suddenly, I met loads and dozens of children who were playing at different things.

– Children: Photo, photo!

I spent quite a long time taking pictures of them because they were asking for it all the time.

I kept on walking and they decided to follow my steps. It made me feel uncomfortable.

Are they just being friendly, or do they plan to fuck me up? The most grown-up ones of the group didn’t say anything and were too serious.

I stopped and after another photo session, an adult showed up and said:

– Adult:  Hey, would you like to come over to our home?

– A kid:  Yes, yes, come to our home!

– Me: No thanks, I am actually leaving 

I’d gone too far, so I thought that the best would be to go back. The children were still following me:

– A kid: Hey, what do you have in your bag?

– Me:  Nothing, dirty clothes and books 

I had my phone inside my bag and of course my Nikon hanging from my neck.

The kid then tried to touch my bag. I moved aside and started to walk faster.

In less than 5 minutes I was at the entrance. What a coincidence, those kids didn’t want to be my friend anymore. Most of them stayed back.

For photography, sociological and altruistic reasons, the Kibera slums is an excellent place where to get lost.

You can communicate in English with practically any resident. Most of them are kind, but be careful with the ones who are not.

Always ask before taking a picture, and if you get into the residential area, try not to go too far.

There’s no violent crime.

If they had wanted to take my bag with violence, they would have done it straight from the beginning.

Just try not to bring valuable objects except for the essential ones.

I only brought my camera and my cell phone.

Read more: How to spend 24 hours in Nairobi

Read More Travel Stories

• A City Guide to Mosul
• Iron Ore Train Guide in Mauritania
• Travel Guide to Aleppo
• Hitchhiking and Backpacking in Saudi Arabia
• Is it Ethical to Visit Saudi Arabia as a Tourist
• Tales of Backpacking in Iraqi Kurdistan
• Meeting the Qashqai People
• Travel Guide to Afghan Village in Pakistan
• Palestinian Refugee Camp in Bethlehem
• Tales of Nubian People
• The day I was accused of being an Islamic State spy
• Visiting Syrian Refugee Camp

20 comments

Interesting article about your visit to the Kibera slum. I agree with you about being careful when visiting such places. And agree 100% about asking permission before taking a photo.

This was a super interesting read! I’m well and truly sat on the fence when it comes to visiting slums – I can’t decide whether it’s a good or bad thing to do, as a tourist. Although with that being said, I think the way you did it i.e. alone, without paying for “a tour” and capitalising on other people’s poverty, interacting with locals etc. is the best way to go about it! As for the article itself, what a lovely little tale about Richard! I love that education is so important, and he’s testimony to that.

You are completely right. Is it a good thing visiting slums? As you said, some people go to this places on organized tours and behave like if they were in a circus and the inhabitants were the animals. But sometimes you need to go to these places because you want to learn and you want to see with your own eyes how do these people actually live. This helps you empathizing more with people, poverty and the third world. Plus, if you go there, you’ll buy water, coke and whatever snack. There can’t be anything wrong with that.

What a roller coaster experience you had. I just watched a Documentary on slums and it really made me appreciate the little things. To be able to live…well not only live but somehow thrive in a place like that while keeping a smile on your face, that’s just amazing. So glad you experienced one, even though it might have gotten a little scary but you held your own and powered through! Love your blog!

Hi Tatum, yes it’s amazing how the Kenyan people (and the African) keep happy with what they have. That place was full of music where people were dancing with no stop. I’m from Spain, and when the crisis started in 2008, people were crying because the government cut their salaries 20%. For years, everybody has been complaining for everything (including me), but then you see what is happening in the rest of the world, and you feel ashamed for complaining about such small things.

Such an incredible experience. I visited a slum in South Africa because our cleaning lady who lived there and became our friend invited us (a truly humbling experience!) and I briefly taught English at a slum school in India which was one of my most intense experiences… It’s heartbreaking to see how some people have to live and heart warming at the same time to see how warm and welcoming they often are (much more sometimes than your average well-off Westerner).

Hi Sanne, thanks for your message. Did you go to the slums in Johannesburg? Those ones are the largest ones in the world, just before Kibera. Teaching in a slum in India must have a been a great and rewarding experience. I’m sure you have more stories than me to tell! And yes, normally developing countries are the places where you find the warmest people. I just came from Sudan, which is the poorest country I’ve ever been but, at the same time, the best people I’ve ever met.

It’s heartouching to come across such places that can have an impact over your mind and heart. Never heard about Kibera – but really good to know about it. it was a super interesting post and I loved reading it.

This was a fascinating read. I’m so glad that there is hope in places like Kibera and Richard’s story is inspirational. Education is so important and hopefully soon Kibera can be brought above the poverty line. While I don’t think that I would visit a slum myself I agree that you visited in the best way, and not with a tour group.

Hi Emily, thanks for that! Glad you liked the story of my ex-colleague Richard! He’s one of the many examples. Yes, going there on a tour is not nice, as there are many tourist who think they are in a circus 🙁

First of all congratulations for have the guts to visit a Slum that too in an African nations. Just a thought of it can send shivers to many. And I must say the story and the pictures you shared is something we don’t see too often. Before reading your article I was inspired to visit Kenya for it’s wildlife but I have another reason to go there.

Hi Archana, thank you so much for your kind comment. Yes, there are many reasons to visit Kenya besides its incredible wildlife. The culture, the different tribes and cities can offer you an amazing point of view about this African nation. Most of the travelers just discover the Masaai Mara and a couple more of National Parks but they miss the most interesting part!

I just read this article and liked your pov. I’ve been to Kibera with my son as well as many other places in Kenya. Generally no fear and most folks are kind, welcoming and happy. I love Africa so much and cannot wait to go back!

Thank you, Jenn. Good to know that you’ve been to Kibera with your son as well. Actually, I had some issues but that’s only because I went too far away… The situation has improved so much in Kibera. I also love Africa and want to discover some other places! Good luck

What a great post! We have just arrived in Nairobi and booked a place about 1km away from the slums. Being a bit ignorant, I had no idea where the slums in Nairobi physically were! I found your article after researching about Kibera and your point of view is very nice to hear. Still not sure if I will visit them, but I am in Nairobi for two weeks so I’ll see what happens. Thanks for the honest refreshing post!

Thank you! I’m glad that you liked the article. I think you should go! If you don’t leave the main street, you’ll just be fine and if you’re concerned just don’t bring any valuable object! Cheers

What an adventure you had! Such a good read about real life in the slums of Nairobi. I’m sure that trip was nerve-racking especially for people who haven’t been in the slums like that. But good to hear you’re safe, and there are still good people telling you to take care. I still believe there are more kind people and love in this world wherever you go than people with bad intentions. Thanks for this! Loved your blog!

Hi Joan, I’ve send you an email, but I think this is quicker:

My name is Amber, from the Netherlands. I came across your website because I am working on my final schoolproject and I was looking for interesting activities and places to visit in Kenya. For my schoolproject I am developing a sustainable (as can be) trip to Kenya for younger people (15-18 yrs old).

I saw your article about your adventure in the Kibera slum neighborhood, and I found it very interesting! I was wondering if you have any tips for me concerning sustainable activities and places to visit in Kenya?

For the development of this trip, it is very important that the trip is sustainably oriented and that there’s a lot of interaction with local communities. We would like to visit places, far away from the tourists. Where local communities are working on local projects and are happy to share their story with us and show us how they live.

Do you know Kenyans that are enthusiastic to help me out with finding places to visit (for instance: fair trade coffee plantation, local hospitals, local schools, other local projects), non-touristic activities to do (biking, helping the locals out with daily activities, local dance learning, local language learning, cooking with the locals and getting ingredients at the local market) and get me in contact with locals that are enthusiastic to host and to tell about their life, to guide, etc.?

With every activity and at every place that we visit, there needs to be a learning point included for the children. Such as: how local people go to school, how they work at plantations, entrepreneurship, etc. Interaction is important. We don’t want anything set up, we would like to truly hear and know about the local culture.

I would love to hear from you and if you have any tips for me!

Best regards, Amber Oostindie from the Netherlands

Joan, I found this fascinating post due to a song I love called Smoke Machine. The artist is Dear Reader with the One Fine Day Music Kids. It led me to your blog because the song was created by the children who live in Kibera. “Smoke Machine” refers to the train that runs through the slum. It’s an utterly sweet, charming song – you can find on YouTube or Spotify.

Thank you so much for providing more background on Kibera – I’m American and had never even heard of it before, nor have I been to Africa. But my sister and her family are moving to Kenya in July – she’s specialized in African poverty & government for most of her career – so I will be visiting Africa soon!

Hi Joan, came across your blog as I was searching through for MARA expedition on a budget. There after stumbled upon this article on Kibera and I must say, just read it while smiling. I once visited the place 9yrs ago, and a month later moved from a posh a gated community and settled in Kibera. Best decision ever. Not the actual shacks but the “upper ” side. Has it’s challenges but the best place to live.

you welcome again to – 8town,

Leave a Comment Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

  Notify me when new comments are added.

Join our Expeditions

From Syria to Iraq in Pakistan, Against the Compass is finally running expeditions to the most epic and off-the-beaten-track countries.

We have scheduled expeditions for every month of the year.

Latest posts

• How to Travel to Libya in 2024
• Backpacking Venezuela Travel Guide (2024)
• How to travel to Afghanistan during Taliban rule (2024)
• How to visit Los Llanos in Venezuela
• How to visit Angel Falls and Canaima National Park

Inside Kibera Slums in Nairobi, Kenya

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Please read the disclaimer for more info.

If you’re visiting Nairobi, even for a short time, I’d strongly recommend not missing an opportunity to visit the Kibera Slums .

Although for some, it may not sound like a pleasant place to visit, a visit to the Kibera Slum offers a fascinating glimpse into the lives of its residents.

We used a local guide to take us through the slums. While it is possible to visit alone, the only way to explore the labyrinth of alleys and seemingly inaccessible areas is to use a local expert.

Our guide grew up in the slums, and his family first arrived decades ago, so we had a particularly personal experience.

What are the Kibera Slums?

Kibera’s population density, water supply, electricity, kibera housing, our kibera slum experience, opportunities to help within a nairobi slum, what is future stars development centre kibera, who is un-habitat, what is an informal settlement.

Kibera is an area in Nairobi, Kenya, and it is home to the largest of the Nairobi slums , and one of the largest slums in Africa. This densely populated area is home to a large population of people who live in differing levels of poverty.

Many people living in Kibera lack basic needs such as running water, healthcare, and education. This issue is due to rapid population growth, urbanization, ethnic divisions, corruption, and government neglect.

Despite these challenges, many residents of Kibera create businesses to support themselves. The community uses ingenuity and determination to provide hardworking locals with a glimpse of hope for a better future.

There is a determination to educate the next generation to pull current generations out of the extreme poverty that exists today.

A Few Kibera Slum Facts and Information

Kibera is the largest slum in Nairobi, Kenya , and one of the largest in Africa. The population is believed to be over one million people, with a majority coming from either the neighboring developing countries of Somalia, Uganda, and South Sudan or one of the many Kenyan tribes such as the Kikuyu (Kenya’s majority tribe), Luo, or Luyha tribes.

For many years, Kibera residents sourced their water from the Nairobi dam – a source with less-than-ideal hygiene that often caused typhoid and cholera. 

However, through innovative initiatives funded by municipal council and World Bank support, two main water pipes now bring clean running water into this community!

Access to electricity is widespread, with many owning televisions and using mobile phones and computers.

Kibera locals cook using either bottled gas or wood, or charcoal. Charcoal can be bought within the slums, while firewood is available from the surrounding forest. 

There are charcoal shops dotted throughout Kibera, with charcoal sold in small buckets for a few shillings.

In most of Kibera , there are no toilet facilities. Up to 50 homes share one hole in the ground. UN-Habitat, which has a significant presence in Kenya, and a few other agencies are trying to help and improve this situation.

Most of Kibera is currently an informal settlement with very little land or home ownership.

Those that are in a position to own land and build a house, whether using iron cladding, mud walls, or concrete in some cases, tend to rent the houses out and develop a small property portfolio. 

Rents for houses in this Nairobi slum start at $25 per month, up to $50 per month for larger houses that accommodate a family.

Our guide picked us up from our hotel and, on the drive to the slums, gave us some background on his upbringing in the slum. 

He had a very troubled childhood, was a member of a street gang, took drugs, and got involved with stealing. 

One of the punishments for thievery is death by stoning, and he was rescued from this lifestyle just in time. He is the only survivor among his gang friends.

Kibera Slum, the largest of Nairobi’s urban slums, has a road through the middle where most of the businesses set up by the more entrepreneurial slum dwellers are located. 

It is also the main thoroughfare for the local buses running in and out of the area through this road, and this is where we started the tour.

On the main streets of this informal settlement, photos are not encouraged. Many local people are unhappy seeing outsiders and less so having their photos taken.

However, once inside the inner slum, photos were a little easier to take, and many of the kids and ladies who appeared in the photos for this story either asked to have their photo taken or agreed to once asked. The parents of the smallest permitted the photos.

Walking through the labyrinth of tight alleys was a precarious exercise. The alleys were muddy, slippery, not designed for the two-left-footed foreigner, and had overhanging sharp edges from the protruding corrugated tin roof, catching my backpack and head at one point. 

Open sewerage drains line the walkways, filled with rubbish and unpleasant aromas.

As we made our way deeper into the slum, the houses were packed in tighter, with makeshift roofs overlapping, not letting any light in and making each footstep in the damp and slippery conditions more precarious. 

Through my trusty skills of nimbleness and agility, or was that blind luck, we made it through unscathed to our first stop, our guide’s family home.

As we entered the house, a room divided into a living area and sleeping quarters, we were welcomed with big smiles and a friendly welcome. 

A mug of milk tea and a plate of freshly cooked chapatis were placed in front of us, and we proceeded to have a wonderful conversation learning about the history of the family and their journey from a tribal village to the poorest slum in Nairobi.

Soon after arriving in Kibera, the father secured a job at a construction site and earned a steady income. Not long after, there was a turn for the worse when he fell two stories off the side of a building and injured his back, so he could no longer work. He didn’t recover to work again. 

The children gave us a rundown of their school and football experiences. 

Our guide then took us to meet Mama Aggy, the founder of Future Stars Development Centre Kibera, a place of sanctuary and opportunity for some of the most vulnerable children living in the informal settlement. More on this program is below. 

The next stop on the tour was a visit to a small factory where they carve animal bones – cow, sheep, camel, and goat – into jewelry, napkin holders, and other knick-knacks, including bottle openers.

A quick visit to the house of our guide was the last stop. We met his wife and daughter, and he ran us through some of his future business ideas, including an English-speaking YouTube channel. 

Witnessing a slum in Africa, or other slums for that matter, first-hand is an excellent reminder of the injustices still present in countries worldwide. 

Seeing how these people strive to provide themselves and their families with basic necessities without having ready access to essential infrastructure can be inspiring. 

Attempting to learn from their resilience and industriousness can change perspectives and provide a valuable lesson on appreciation for all one has in life.

Thankfully, there are several organizations working in the Kibera slums to help improve the daily lives of the inhabitants and the future prospects and education of the children.

If you are in Nairobi and looking to provide some support within informal settlements like this, a good way would be to hire a local guide.

The guide we used is  here  (non-affiliate link through Viator). The price was $55 per person (January 2023)

Other guides can be found on Airbnb Experiences, Trip Advisor, and many other providers.

Organizations contributing to the improvement of Kibera include  UN habitat ,  Future Stars Development Centre ,  The Umande Trust , and a host of NGOs that your tour company can put you in touch with.

While Kibera is still facing significant challenges, these organizations have stepped up and made a positive difference in the lives of its citizens. We can all be encouraged by this progress. And hopefully, more families living in this informal settlement can be brought above the poverty line.

Mama Aggy founded the Development and Rescue Centre, originally known as The Good Samaritan Centre, in 2013 when she took two young orphans into her home. Over time, it has grown to become a place of sanctuary and opportunity for some of the most vulnerable children living in slums. 

It provides primary school education, residential care facilities, and a feeding program to help improve many aspects of these children’s lives. Hundreds have been impacted by its work so far.

The United Nations Human Settlements Programme (UN-Habitat) has been at the forefront of providing assistance to Kenya in creating sustainable, equitable, and livable cities. Their focus is on urban development and housing, and they provide sanitation services with an emphasis on promoting youth engagement and tackling informal settlements. 

An informal settlement is a residential area that has grown rapidly, often because of factors like poverty and unemployment. These settlements are typically home to thousands of people who lack access to basic resources, including clean water and sanitation systems. 

Informal settlements are often overcrowded due to the lack of housing options and can be dangerous environments for many living there. They also tend to be under-served by infrastructure and services like health clinics, schools, and police stations, which can compound the hardship these communities experience in their daily lives. 

Despite this, these areas usually have strong community ties among their members that help aid informal networks to facilitate commerce and other activities.

Thanks for wonderfully managed insight into a place not many would cover. For people with so little ready to share what they have is humbling.

Thanks, Steve. This wasn’t an easy topic to cover, but glad you could recognise the important points here. The people we met were quite remarkable in their generosity.

Post a Comment Cancel Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Notify me of follow-up comments by email.

Notify me of new posts by email.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

Slum Tour Kibera

Interactive video tour through the largest slum in Kenya

Welcome to Slum Tour Kibera!

Click here for the website in Dutch

On this website you can book an interactive online tour through the slums of Kibera, Nairobi. The participants can experience daily life in Kibera via a live connection. The tours are given in English by the guides Collins, Allan and Rally . All guides were born and raised in Kibera and know the area by heart. 

• The teacher sets up an online meeting (Zoom, Teams or Meet)
• The guide explains and films daily life in Kibera
• The students can participate and ask in-depth questions

Every tour is unique. The guides show what the students ask for. The guides give explanations on the spot and the students can ask in-depth questions. Click here for more information about the tour.

The revenue from the tours is used by the Agape Hope for Kibera foundation to purchase food, medication and organise education for vulnerable children from Kibera.

Agape Hope for Kibera  also organises walking tours through Kibera, if you are in the area please go to LocalMeTravel for more information .

Kevin’s Kibera Slum Tours

Kibera Slum Tours

Visit the largest urban informal settlement in Africa during this private, half-day tour through Nairobi’s Kibera slum. Explore the vibrant community with a born-and-bred Kibera local.

I am born and raised in Kibera slum and have lived here all my life. I rescued street kids and put them in an orphanage school in Kibera and I am the volunteer there. Walk with me to explore the slum culture at a low price. I am the well known tour guide in the slum and you will experience Kibera safely by my side.

Trip Advisor

Check my profile here >>

Our Services

In city tours,You will have opportunity to visit Girrafe center,Baby elephant orphanage,Kenya conference center in Nairobi city and Bomas of Kenya.

Kibera Tours

Kevins kibera slum tours gives service of touring kibere slum.We do house visit, orphanage/schools,bonecraft,biogas, viewing point and power women visit.3hrs walk with known tour guide born in kibera

Reserve Your Spot

We Don't Take Payments from this site. Please Use Trip Advisor's platform below 🙂

Chat with me on WhatsApp for Enquires

Kevin's Kibera Slum Tours 🙂

Expedia Rewards is now One Key™

Earn onekeycash when you sign in and book an activity.

Check availability

• About this activity

Kibera Slum Guided Tour from Nairobi

• Free cancellation available
• Mobile voucher
• Instant confirmation
• Selective hotel pickup

Visit to the Kibera slum, one of the largest slums in Africa and a sight unseen by most visitors. Visit workshops, vendors, and schools in Kibera to learn how the slum's 250,000 residents live on a day to day basis while your guide provides informative commentary about the area's challenges and opportunities.

Activity location

• Nairobi, Kenya

Meeting/Redemption Point

• Fri, Jun 7 -
• Sat, Jun 8 $81
• Sun, Jun 9 $81
• Mon, Jun 10 $81
• Tue, Jun 11 $81
• Wed, Jun 12 $81
• Thu, Jun 13 $81
• Fri, Jun 14 $81
• Sat, Jun 15 $81
• Sun, Jun 16 $81
• Mon, Jun 17 $81
• Tue, Jun 18 $81
• Wed, Jun 19 $81
• Thu, Jun 20 $81
• Fri, Jun 21 $81
• Activity duration is 5 hours 5h 5h

Pickup included

What's included, what's not

• What's included What's included Tour guide
• What's included What's included T-shirt
• What's included What's included Bottle of water
• What's excluded What's excluded Lunch
• What's excluded What's excluded Drinks
• What's excluded What's excluded Gratuities

Know before you book

• Infants and small children can ride in a pram or stroller
• Specialized infant seats are available
• Suitable for all physical fitness levels

Activity itinerary

• Admission ticket included

Best Deals on Things to Do

Top experiences in nairobi.

‘We are not wildlife’: Kibera residents slam poverty tourism

Tourism in Nairobi slum is rising but many residents are angry at becoming an attraction for wealthy foreign visitors.

Kibera, Kenya  –  Sylestine Awino rests on her faded brown couch, covering herself with a striped green shuka, a traditional Maasai fabric.

It’s exactly past noon in a noisy neighbourhood at the heart of Kibera,  Kenya ‘s largest slum, and the 34-year-old  has just finished her daily chores.

Keep reading

Us fines airlines $2.5m for delaying covid-19 refunds to travellers us fines airlines $2.5m for delaying ..., singapore airlines death: is climate change making air turbulence worse singapore airlines death: is climate ..., ‘refuge of the last dreamers’: luang prabang, a city suspended in time ‘refuge of the last dreamers’: luang ..., dubai announces $35bn construction of world’s largest airport terminal dubai announces $35bn construction of ....

Directly opposite Awino, her two daughters are busy studying for an upcoming math exam.

The family will not have lunch today.

“We don’t afford the luxury of having two consecutive meals,” says Awino, a mother of three. “We took breakfast, meaning we will skip lunch and see if we can afford dinner”.

Up until five years ago, Awino made a living selling fresh food in Mombasa, Kenya’s second largest city. There, she interacted with tourists who came to enjoy the sandy beaches of the Indian Ocean.

But in 2013, she decided to move to Kibera, in the capital, Nairobi, aiming for new opportunities – only to meet camera-toting tourists again, this time eager to explore the crowded slum where many are unable to afford basic needs. 

“This was strange. I used to see families from Europe and the United States  flying to Mombasa to enjoy our oceans and beaches,”  says Awino, who is now a housewife – her husband, a truck driver, provides for the family.  

“Seeing the same tourists manoeuvring this dusty neighbourhood to see how we survive was shocking,” she adds.

Awino recalls one incident a few months ago when a group of tourists approached her, with one of them trying to take a picture of her.

“I felt like an object,” she says. “I wanted to yell at them, but I was afraid of the tour guides accompanying them”. 

Kibera has seen a sudden rise of tourists over the past decade, with a number of companies offering guided tours showcasing how its residents live.

The slum faces high unemployment and poor sanitation, making living conditions dire for its residents.

According to Kenya’s 2009 census, Kibera is home to about 170,000 people. Other sources, however, estimate its population to be up to two million people.

Because of the high population, housing is inadequate. Many residents are living in tiny, 12ft by 12ft shack rooms, built in some cases with mud walls, a ridged roof and dirt floor. The small structures house up to eight people, with many sleeping on the floor.

Last week, thousands of families were left homeless  after the government demolished homes, schools and churches to pave way for a road expansion.

Strolling through the dusty pathways sandwiched by the thin iron-sheet-walled houses,  Musa Hussein is angry to see the growing popularity of the guided tours.

“Kibera is not a national park and we are not wildlife,” says the 67-year-old, who was born and raised here.

“The only reason why these tours exist is because [a] few people are making money out of it,” he adds.

The trade of showing a handful of wealthy people how the poor are living, Hussein argues, is morally wrong and tour companies should stop offering this service. 

‘We created employment for ourselves’

Kibera Tours is one of the several companies that have been set up to meet the demand.

Established in 2008, the company has between 100 to 150 customers annually. Each client is charged around $30 for a three-hour tour, according to Frederick Otieno, the cofounder of Kibera Tours.

“The idea behind it was to simply show the positive side of Kibera and promote unique projects around the slums,” he says. “By doing this, we created employment for ourselves and the youth around us”.

The tour company employs 15 youths, working in shifts.

Willis Ouma is one of them.

Midmorning on a cloudy Saturday, the 21-year-old is wearing a bright red shirt. Accompanied by a colleague, he stands at one of the slum’s entrances, anxiously waiting to greet a group of four Danish tourists who have registered for the day’s tour.

“I have to impress them because tourists recommend to each other,” he says.

For three years, Ouma has been spending most of his weekends acting as a tour guide for hundreds of visitors.

“They enjoy seeing this place, which makes me want to do more. But some locals do not like it all,” he says, adding that he often has to calm down protesting residents.

Ouma earns $4 for every tour.

“This is my side hustle because it generates some extra cash for my survival,” he says. “I used my earnings to start a business of hawking boiled eggs”.

What would happen to an African like me in Europe or America, touring and taking photos of their poor citizens? by  Sylestine Awino, Kibera resident

One of the Danish tourists is 46-year-old Lotte Rasmussen, a Nairobi resident who has toured Kibera more than 30 times, often with friends who visit from abroad.

“I bring friends to see how people live here. The people might not have money like us, but they are happy and that’s why I keep on coming,” she says, carefully bending down to take an image of a smiling Kibera toddler.

The tour includes stops at sites where visitors can buy locally-made craftwork, including ornaments and traditional clothing.

“We support local initiatives like children’s homes and women’s groups hence I do not see a problem with ethical issues,” says Rasmussen.

But Awino remains adamant.

She maintains that it is morally unfair that tourists keep on coming to the place she calls home.

“Think of the vice versa,” she says, “What would happen to an African like me in Europe or America, touring and taking photos of their poor citizens?”

Kibera: Inside one of the biggest slums in Kenya

Kibera is the largest slum in Kenya. It is also one of the largest urban slums on the African continent. Kibera is located in Nairobi, the capital of Kenya,  overlaying about 2.5 square kilometres. It is extensively recognized as one of the maximum densely populated regions in Nairobi. It is also a place where many human beings endure challenging circumstances, dealing with confined spaces and a shortage of basic facilities. The poor infrastructure makes living more challenging. The complex dynamics of Kibera spotlight the wider issues of urban poverty and the need for sustainable development strategies in casual settlement

The roots of Kibera’s history can be traced back to the colonial rule of the British . The area was initially designated as a forest reserve. People were drawn to Nairobi in search of employment and gradually got settled there. During the 20th century, Kibera emerged as a settlement. During World War I and II, more people moved to Nairobi for jobs resulting in the further expansion of Kibera. The lack of proper planning and housing policies made Kibera grow even more, surrounded by formal structures as  Nairobi developed. After Kenya gained independence, challenges like land ownership problems, political issues, and economic struggles affected Kibera’s development. The government didn’t do enough to improve living conditions in the slums. These factors together led Kibera to one of Kenya ‘s largest and most densely populated slums.

Kibera boasts a mix of people from diverse backgrounds and various places in Kenya, forming a culturally rich community. It hosts different ethnic groups such as Luo, Kikuyu, and Luhya. However, residing in Kibera consists of different challenges. Overcrowding is a significant issue in Kibera. Housing is often cramped and constructed with makeshift materials, lacking proper infrastructure. Many homes are small and closely packed, contributing to overcrowding. The living spaces often lack ventilation and proper lighting, creating difficult conditions for the residents. Sanitation is another pressing issue in Kibera. The settlement lacks proper waste disposal, and many people use communal pit latrines, which can be unhealthy. Access to clean water is also a problem. Sometimes, residents have to travel far to get water, and the available sources might not be very clean, leading to sickness. The lack of education opportunities is another factor that keeps dragging the slum downwards. 

In Kibera, economic activities play a crucial role in sustaining the community. Many residents engage in small businesses and informal settlements as a way to make a living. This includes small ventures in streets to alcohol smuggling. In the midst of significant obstacles like limited job options and unclear financial futures, the residents of Kibera demonstrate impressive resilience and determination in forging paths to success for themselves and their loved ones. Individuals like tailors, hair stylists, and food sellers contribute significantly to Kibera’s economic well-being by offering necessary products and services to locals. The informal neighbourhoods within Kibera serve as dual-purpose areas, serving as both homes and places of work. Through their abilities and talents, locals craft handmade items for sale, displaying ingenuity and resilience in the face of financial struggles. Although barriers remain, initiatives by NGOs and community groups seek to improve economic prospects through training programs and employment opportunities, demonstrating that positive change and sustainable development are possible results in the Kibera economy.

The government is actively engaged in addressing the challenges faced by Kibera. However, the effectiveness of government measures remains a matter of debate. Various efforts have been made in areas such as infrastructure, health, education and sanitation. Regarding infrastructure, there have been projects aimed at increasing roads and accessibility in Kibera. But growth rates are often lower than the rapidly growing population. Some residents still lack basic needs such as electricity and adequate housing at all times. Health infrastructure has increased slightly, with hospitals and new healthcare facilities. However, demand often exceeds available resources, creating areas that are overcrowded and underserved by critical medical services. Authorities have also taken steps to improve educational opportunities in Kibera. This includes initiatives focused on improving school systems and increasing access to quality education. Despite all these efforts, issues such as overcrowded classrooms and the need for new schools remain. Sanitation remains another major concern, and the government has launched programs to tackle waste and increase access to safe water. Challenges such as corruption, inefficiency of staff and limited resources create barriers to the successful implementation of programmes.

Kibera’s complex dynamics depict broader problems, emphasizing the urgent need for sustainable development techniques in casual settlements. In the face of adversity, Kibera serves as a poignant reminder of the pressing want for concerted efforts and holistic approaches to cope with urban poverty and inequality. By fostering collaboration between governmental organizations and nearby groups, there’s the capacity to transform Kibera right into a thriving and sustainable urban environment in which all citizens can lead dignified lives with access to basic services and opportunities for development.

References:

• About Kibera . (n.d.). KIBERA TOURS. Retrieved February 25, 2024, from https://kiberatours.com/about-kibera/  
• Bloxham, L. (2020, November 26). Kibera: a look inside Africa’s largest slum . Concern Worldwide. Retrieved February 25, 2024, from https://www.concern.org.uk/news/kibera-look-inside-africas-largest-slum  
• Poverty and Inequality in the Kibera Slum . (2022, August 13). The Borgen Project. Retrieved February 25, 2024, from https://borgenproject.org/kibera-slum/  
• Thoma, M. (2012, June 19). Economist’s View: Kenya’s Kibera Slum . Economist’s View. Retrieved February 25, 2024, from https://economistsview.typepad.com/economistsview/2012/06/kenyas-kibera-slum.html  
• Torres, J. (2023, December 28). Visiting the Kibera slums in Kenya . Against the Compass. Retrieved February 25, 2024, from https://againstthecompass.com/en/kibera-slums-visiting/  

Image Links:

• https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/c93e904be7730084a6b1305aaf4f5ee444369b79/0_49_4368_2621/master/4368.jpg?width=620&dpr=2&s=none  
• https://www.wearewater.org/images/340632/default.jpg  
• https://www.gettyimages.pt/detail/fotografia-de-not%C3%ADcias/men-gather-on-the-hiillside-above-the-street-in-fotografia-de-not%C3%ADcias/524872092  

Krishnanunni, an avid reader and English graduate, is passionate about films, traveling, and learning about history. He tries to capture and explore the essence of moments through the art of writing and photography.

Human-Centered Design in Digital Platforms

Neza: Inside one of the biggest slums in Mexico

Related posts.

City elements and cognitive mapping

Khayelitsha: Inside one of the biggest slums in South Africa

Heritage Hotel: Gleneagles

Smart Cities: Integrating Technology to Enhance Urban Living

Dharavi: Inside one of the biggest slums in India

Orangi Town: Inside one of the biggest slums in Pakistan

• Architectural Community
• Architectural Facts
• RTF Architectural Reviews
• Architectural styles
• City and Architecture
• Fun & Architecture
• History of Architecture
• Design Studio Portfolios
• Designing for typologies
• RTF Design Inspiration
• Architecture News
• Career Advice
• Case Studies
• Construction & Materials
• Covid and Architecture
• Interior Design
• Know Your Architects
• Landscape Architecture
• Materials & Construction
• Product Design
• RTF Fresh Perspectives
• Sustainable Architecture
• Top Architects
• Travel and Architecture
• Rethinking The Future Awards 2022
• RTF Awards 2021 | Results
• GADA 2021 | Results
• RTF Awards 2020 | Results
• ACD Awards 2020 | Results
• GADA 2019 | Results
• ACD Awards 2018 | Results
• GADA 2018 | Results
• RTF Awards 2017 | Results
• RTF Sustainability Awards 2017 | Results
• RTF Sustainability Awards 2016 | Results
• RTF Sustainability Awards 2015 | Results
• RTF Awards 2014 | Results
• RTF Architectural Visualization Competition 2020 – Results
• Architectural Photography Competition 2020 – Results
• Designer’s Days of Quarantine Contest – Results
• Urban Sketching Competition May 2020 – Results
• RTF Essay Writing Competition April 2020 – Results
• Architectural Photography Competition 2019 – Finalists
• The Ultimate Thesis Guide
• Introduction to Landscape Architecture
• Perfect Guide to Architecting Your Career
• How to Design Architecture Portfolio
• How to Design Streets
• Introduction to Urban Design
• Introduction to Product Design
• Complete Guide to Dissertation Writing
• Introduction to Skyscraper Design
• Educational
• Hospitality
• Institutional
• Office Buildings
• Public Building
• Residential
• Sports & Recreation
• Temporary Structure
• Commercial Interior Design
• Corporate Interior Design
• Healthcare Interior Design
• Hospitality Interior Design
• Residential Interior Design
• Sustainability
• Transportation
• Urban Design
• Host your Course with RTF
• Architectural Writing Training Programme | WFH
• Editorial Internship | In-office
• Graphic Design Internship
• Research Internship | WFH
• Research Internship | New Delhi
• RTF | About RTF
• Submit Your Story

Looking for Job/ Internship?

Rtf will connect you with right design studios.

Inside Kibera, Africa’s biggest Slum

Are tourists allowed to visit Kibera Slum?

It is not a place where tourists go and definitely not a place you can go on your own. It is very dangerous and you will probably get lost there.

In the last few years, however, some locals have started projects to bring tourists to the Slum and help the community with the earnings.

I visited the Slum during my 24 hour layover in Nairobi . I recommend you to take the tour with Kevin (you will find his contacts at the end of the article). He is a local young guy, knowledgeable and top recommended on Tripadvisor. He started this tour only a couple of years ago and he already has several projects to improve life conditions in the Slum.

Kibera Slum tour with Kevin

Kevin picked us up from our hotel at 7 am and drove us to Kibera. On the way there we saw hundreds of people walking and it seemed a sort of procession. He explained us that these are people from the Slum that walk to the richer areas of town every day to work. The closer we were getting to Kibera, the more people were in the procession! We finally arrived to Kibera and entered inside the biggest slum of Africa.

Traffic was intense and the smell was awful. We parked the car and started to explore by foot. There is one main road which divides the slum into two sections, and we will visit both areas during the 3 hour tour with Kevin. Walking around the slum is quite hard, there is dirty water leaking everywhere and it’s better trying not to touch anything just to be on the safe side. It is definitely not a place for the faint hearted.

Local School

Kevin brought us to a local school where we met the Dean. He was very interested in knowing the reason we were visiting Kibera and asked us to meet and talk to the students.

Therefore we went to a class and I was impressed by the dress code of the students. You wouldn’t expect such a rigorous dress code in that Slum. The teacher explained us that those guys were some of the best students of the school and were very ambitious to get a scholarship to go to University.

We spoke to them and their biggest dream was to be able to go study in the UK and one day come back to help their families in the Slum. They asked us a lot of questions on how to be great students at university and what’s like to live in Europe.

Very interesting and touching experience, we took some photos, hugged them and wished the best luck!

Kevin’s House

After we kept walking around the Slum and went to Kevin’s house. We met his wife and daughter and he then showed us his latest project. When it rains the water gets inside the houses and makes it hard to walk in the narrow “streets”. Hence Kevin was trying to build a path to walk and a protection for the houses against the water. He explained us that by doing such project he wishes to help people living in those houses, and to give a job to some of the many unemployed inhabitants of Kibera.

We kept walking around the area, garbage and dirt is literally everywhere. We even saw a goat eating a piece of paper.

Then we crossed the main road to go to the other side of Kibera. We saw pairs of shoes hanging from the electric wires. Kevin explained us that it is a symbol of people from the Slum that stopped with their criminal life and want to become good citizens helping the community.

Rubbish Dump

We saw a massive open rubbish dump, laying right next to the houses where people live. It was unbelievable, awful and smelly. Unfortunately Kevin told us there are no many other ways to keep the garbage and the government doesn’t do much to help the community.

Small local factory

Kevin then brought us inside a small factory. There they realize necklaces, keychains and other small items made from animal bones and different waste materials. He started this project to give jobs to locals who committed criminal acts, and to raise money for the community. They sell these items at some local markets in nairobi and to those few tourists visiting the Slum.

We explored a bit more of that side of Kibera and then went back to the car. Kevin drove us directly to the airport to catch our flight to Johannesburg.

In conclusion, visiting Kibera Slum was a tough experience, but very interesting and rewarding. If you ever find yourself in Nairobi I recommend you to take the tour with Kevin as you will learn a lot of a world we barely know it exists.

Contacts for Kibera Slum

I’ll drop Kevin contacts here:

Tripadvisor : Kevin’s Kibera Slum Tours

WhatsApp: +254736103076

More videos from Kibera Slum

Here you have some videos from Kibera, so you can try to get an idea of the extreme living conditions in the Slum:

How to spend the rest of your time in Nairobi?

Check this article to read more about what to do in Nairobi. I had a long layover there for 24 hours, so here are some advices on how to spend a full day visiting Kenya’s capital city.

What to do in Nairobi in 24 hours?

If you enjoyed reading this article share it with your friends. And if you have any questions regarding the Slum or want some help in arranging a tour, write in the comments below.

Related posts

Backpacking Bratislava, Slovakia

Travel to Nauru, the world’s least visited country

Aerobatic Flight in Airlie Beach, Australia

Trackbacks/pingbacks.

• What to do in Nairobi in 24 hours? - Full Time Adventurer - […] can read the article about my experience inside Kibera Slum if you wish to discover […]

Submit a Comment Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Submit Comment

About Manuel

Hey, I’m Manuel, intrepid traveller and full time adventurer. I’ve visited over 100 countries and been to some of the most remote places of this planet. Join me on my adventures around the world as I will share tips, itineraries and interesting travel stories.

Sign up with your email address to receive news and updates.

Thank you for subscribing!

Pin it on pinterest.

How to Visit Kibera Slum For Free Without a Tour

By: Author Zachary Friedman

Posted on Last updated: January 22, 2024

Categories Kenya

Home » Africa » Kenya » How to Visit Kibera Slum For Free Without a Tour

Kibera slum is a suburb of Nairobi that is often considered to be the largest slum in Africa. As many as 1 million people live here in extreme poverty. Most live on less than $1 per day. Crime and disease are common. Fresh water is scarce. The locals live in small shacks. Most of which do not have electricity. Unemployment is high. As is substance abuse.

Several companies sell tours of Kibera for around $30 per person. You can also easily visit the slum independently for free. No guide is necessary. This guide explains, step-by-step, how to tour Kibera slum for free. I’ll cover transportation, costs, things to do, staying safe, and much more.  I’ll also explain how to take a tour of Kibera and recommend a few tour companies.

I have visited Kibera on two occasions. First, I visited independently with some friends. On a later trip, I took a tour. In this guide, I’ll share my experience. Hopefully, this guide makes your visit to Kibera as smooth and safe as possible.

Key Takeaways

Kibera is the largest slum in Nairobi, Kenya with an estimated population of around 800,000. The area suffers from extreme poverty, disease, lack of clean water, unemployment, and crime. Kibera is located 4 miles from Nairobi city center. You can get there by Uber, taxi, or matatu. If you’re going on a tour, your guide will pick you up from your hotel. When you take a tour of Kibera, you may visit a local Kibera home, a bread factory, the Kenya-Uganda Railway, an orphanage, a local school, the biogas center, and a local market. You can visit Kibera independently for free or you can take a tour for around $30. Kibera is a dangerous neighborhood. Violent crime, theft, pickpocketing, and kidnapping are all crimes that exist there. To stay safe, it’s best to visit with a guide. Never visit at night. Don’t carry any valuables. Never accept an invitation into anyone’s home.

Table of Contents

• About Kibera
• How to Get to Kibera

Things to Do in Kibera

• How to Stay Safe While Visiting Kibera
• How to Take a Tour of Kibera
• The Ethics of Visiting Kibera
• Volunteering

A Bit of Info About Kibera

Kibera is a division of Nairobi. The area sits around 4.1 miles or 6.6 kilometers from the city center. Kibera is considered to be the largest urban slum in all of Africa. It covers an area of around 2.5 square kilometers. The area is divided into a number of different villages. The Uganda Railway passes directly through the center of Kibera.

Depending on the source, population estimates range from 170,000 to well over a million people. There are estimates that as many as two million people live there. Most live in extreme poverty on less than $2 per day. This makes Kibera the poorest slum in Nairobi. Most of Kibera’s population is living well below the poverty line. Many families living in Kibera cannot afford food.

Most of the shacks in Kibera have mud walls with a corrugated tin roof and a dirt or concrete floor. They measure around 12′ x 12′. Up to 8 people can live in each house. Rent costs around 1700 kes or $12 per month.

Even though Kibera is part of Nairobi, it is considered to be an informal settlement. This means the government is not obligated to provide services or build infrastructure there. The Kenyan government does not provide schools, sanitation, clean water, clinics, etc. The residents also have no rights to the property where their homes are built. The land where Kibera is built belongs to the Kenyan government. Kibera isn’t the only slum in Nairobi. It’s just the largest.

The neighborhood suffers from a multitude of problems. Mostly stemming from poverty. The unemployment rate is around 80 %. Drug and alcohol addictions are common. Education is also poor.  Most Kibera residents can’t afford to send their children to school. There are also many young orphans living in Kibera.

Diseases from unclean drinking water and poor sanitation are also common. There are few toilet facilities. Garbage collection is also an issue. Trash piles up on the sides of the streets. The infrastructure is poor as well. Only around 20% of the homes have electricity. Most do not have running water. They collect water from polluted streams that pass through the area. For many years, Kibera residents sourced water from Nairobi Dam.

HIV and AIDS rates are also extremely high. It is estimated that as much as 20% of the population is infected with the virus. Healthcare options are limited.

Violent crimes including robbery, rape, and assault are a serious issue. There are even cases of organ harvesting in Kibera. Crime is a serious issue here. It is a dangerous place to live.

Even though education here is generally very poor, most people living in Kibera speak fluent English. While you’re walking around, you can interact with pretty much anyone in English. Even the kids. This makes it easy to get around and have a cultural exchange.

Currently, it is estimated that around 900 million to 1.6 billion people or around 1/4 of the world’s urban population lives in slums or informal settlements like Kibera. This lifestyle is a reality for millions of people around the world.

How to Get to Kibera from Nairobi

The Kibera slums lie just 4.1 miles (6.6 km) from Nairobi CBD. The neighborhood is easily accessible from anywhere in the city. The main road leading toward Kibera is Ring Road Kilimani. There are several ways to get there including:

• Uber- The ride from downtown costs just a few dollars. Your driver will drop you off right in the center of the neighborhood. This is probably the most stress-free way to get to Kibera. My friends and I took an Uber from our hostel on Milimani Road. Our driver seemed to think we were crazy for going and didn’t seem too happy about driving us there, but he did it anyway. The roads entering the slum are rough and crowded. He gave us his number so we could call him to pick us up but he didn’t answer when we wanted to return.
• Taxi- You can simply flag down a cab and tell the driver that you want to go to Kibera. Be sure to bargain hard with the driver. Some drivers won’t budge on price and some simply don’t want to take their cars over the rough roads in Kibera. If that happens, just find one that actually wants the fare. 
• Matatu (shared minibus)- There are matatus running on the main roads alongside Kibera. I’m not sure of the exact route, but you could easily find your way by asking around.
• Walk- Because Kibera is so close to the city center it is possible to just walk there. After our Uber driver didn’t answer when we wanted to be picked up, we decided to just walk back to the hostel. It took just over an hour. We were staying a little bit west of the CBD so the walk wasn’t so bad.

Kibera is kind of built on a hill. It extends out in all directions. The slum sprawls over a pretty huge area. The first thing I recommend you do is to walk to the highest point and take in the view. The size of the slum is really impressive. It’s sprawling. This will also help you get the lay of the land. The area is kind of a maze. There is no urban planning here. It is pretty easy to get lost if you’re not paying attention to where you’re going.

Next, you can begin just wondering around. Dirt roads and paths wind throughout the whole neighborhood. Some are busy and full of people, traffic, and businesses. Some are quiet and residential. You’ll see children playing with homemade toys and people going about their lives doing laundry, cooking, etc. 

Make your way to the low point in the slum where you’ll find a small stream. Here, you’ll see slum dwellers washing their belongings and collecting water. Several rickety old wooden bridges cross the stream. Watch your step when crossing.

Tip: While wandering around, try not to be too intrusive. People are just living their lives. It’s best not to bother them. Try not to take too many photos or loiter around too much. The local people don’t like it, which is understandable. I don’t like random people nosing around my home either. 

The final place that is worth checking out is the Uganda railroad. It runs directly through the center of Kibera. I am not sure if the line is still in use. Here you find some shops with people selling all sorts of items. I saw everything from food to ancient looking electronics. 

While wandering around, consider buying a drink or snacks from one of the vendors. Small convenience shops can be found all throughout the area selling a variety of items. We bought some sodas. One of my friends bought a can of beer. This is also a nice way to support the local community. 

Is Kibera Slum Safe? Avoiding Crime and Scams

Kibera is not the safest place to visit. At the same time, it’s not as dangerous as you may assume. There is some rule of law here. You’re unlikely to encounter any issues if you take some basic precautions.

That said, the crime rates in Kibera are high. Theft, mugging, murder, pickpocketing, assault, kidnapping, rape, and organ harvesting are all crimes that exist here, unfortunately.

Theft is extremely common in Kibera. If anything is left unattended, there is a good chance that it will get stolen quickly. For example, building materials cannot be left unattended here. This makes improving the infrastructure incredibly challenging. If a home is damaged, the owner has to camp on the remaining materials so they don’t get stolen.

As a visitor, your biggest risk is pickpocketing or theft. Someone could snatch your phone or camera while you’re walking around if you’re not careful. Mugging is also a risk but the likelihood is lower. If you’re here after dark, the risk increases substantially.

Kibera is safe enough to spend an afternoon walking around. I never felt in danger. To limit your risk of becoming a victim, you will want to take a few precautions.

How to stay safe while visiting Kibera Slums

• Don’t visit Kibera at night- During the day, Kibera is relatively peaceful. After night falls, things change. Most crime happens at night. You become an easier target for criminals. Multiple people including our Uber driver encouraged us to leave well before dark.
• Go in a group if possible- There is safety in numbers. It’s harder for a criminal to victimize a group of people than an individual. I visited Kibera with two friends that I met in the hostel where I was staying in Nairobi. Even though I would feel comfortable enough going alone, it is best to be in a group if it is an option.
• Don’t carry any valuables- Just bring your camera and enough cash for transport and some food. Leave your passport, jewlery, expensive electronics, and other valuables locked up at your hotel. Carrying valuables can make you a target for thieves.
• Never accept an invitation into anyone’s house- It might be tempting to take a look inside someone’s home if they invite you in but this is extremely dangerous. You could be robbed, assaulted, or worse. Only go inside someone’s home if you visit Kibera with a reputable guide who knows the people who live there.
• Don’t stay too long- The longer you say, the more risk you expose yourself to. You can get a good feel for the area in just a couple of hours. There is no need to spend a full day here.
• Respect everyone- Don’t go around pointing a camera everywhere and acting like a stereotypical tourist. Treat the area like any other neighborhood.  Generally, the people living here are friendly but they could get aggressive if they feel that you are invading their privacy. Some people are embarrassed to live in the slum. They do not want to be photographed.
• Don’t hand out anything- Don’t hand out money, candy, toys, pens, etc. Giving stuff away attracts attention and can create chaos. You could attract a group of people, which can get dangerous. It also teaches the people that tourists equal gifts, which is dangerous for future visitors. If you wish to make a donation, donate to a reputable charity.
• Watch where you step- The roads and pathways are not paved. Some are very steep and treacherous. There is garbage blanketing the ground in places. There could be broken glass or rusty pieces of metal that you could step on. There are also deep potholes, trenches, and ruts. This makes walking difficult in some places. When it rains, the streets also become muddy and slippery. Be careful not to fall. To stay safe, wear closed tow walking shoes and watch where you step.
• Don’t get lost- There doesn’t seem to be any urban planning going on in Kibera. Streets and paths go in all directions. It would be pretty easy to get lost if you aren’t paying attention to where you are going. If you do get lost, try to walk uphill so you can reorient yourself with the land.
• If you want to take a photo of someone, ask first- Many people here don’t want to be photographed. They are not exactly happy to be living here. Also, I have found that people in this part of the world generally don’t like it when you take a photo or video of them. Kenyans are extremely friendly and welcoming but they are suspicious of cameras. If you take a photo of someone without asking, they could simply ask you to stop or they could get aggressive.

To me, the best argument for taking a guided tour of Kibera rather than visiting independently is safety. You are safer with a guide. The guide has a better idea of where it is safe and where isn’t safe to walk. They will also have friends and contacts living in the area if something goes wrong. If you are alone, you may not feel comfortable walking around Kibera. It is a lot to take in and is a bit risky.

Just a few days after my visit, one of my friends found an article online about a recent crime in Kibera. Five mutilated bodies were found near the railroad tracks. It is believed that they were victims of organ harvesting. Check out the article here. 

For more general information on safety, check out my guide: Is Travel in Africa Safe? Avoiding Crime, Disease, Injury, and Scams

Taking a Tour of Kibera

If you’re not comfortable visiting Kibera on your own, there are tours available. A couple of companies offer tours of the slum.

Kibera Tours : This tour delves into the community’s daily life and culture. They try to focus on the positive sides of Kibera. You’ll visit a typical Kibera home, a bread factory, the biogas center, an organization for women with HIV, the railway line, and various markets and shops.

Explore Kibera Tours: This tour visits all of the main points of interest in Kibera including the main commercial area, markets, the Kenya-Uganda Railway, local breadmakers, a school, an orphanage, and more.

Tours cost around $30 and last 2-3 hours. You can also hire a guide and take a private tour if you choose.

Why Opt for a Tour?

Venturing independently is great, but taking a guided tour in Kibera does offer some advantages. Most guides either grew up in Kibera or spent a significant amount of time living there. The guide can offer insights that only a local can provide. For example, they can tell stories of their experience living in Kibera. They can also take you to places you wouldn’t discover alone.

A significant concern for many is safety. With a guided tour, you don’t really have to worry. Walking alongside someone who knows the area and the people provides security.

In addition, taking a tour helps to uplift the local community. A portion of the funds goes directly into local projects. For example, Kibera Tours donates a percentage of each tour to the Hope and Shine Center. This is a school for the children of Kibera.

You’ll also learn more when you take a tour. The guide can share some history of Kibera, explain some local challenges, and talk about plans for the future. This can give you some more appreciation for this unique Nairobi slum.

Is it Ethical to Visit Kibera?

Slum tours have become pretty popular for adventure tourists over the past decade or so. You can tour the favelas of Rio de Janeiro, Dharavi Slum in Mumbai, townships in South Africa, and Kibera in Nairobi. Those are the main slum tours that I am aware of where organized tours are offered.

Some travelers hold the belief that it is unethical to visit a slum for tourism purposes. The argument is that tourists are exploiting the people living in the slum and treating their home as a zoo. Basically, they are viewing someone’s misfortune for the purpose of entertainment. Slum tourists may gawk and take photos of people who are suffering. This is a valid argument. Slum tourism is a type of dark tourism.

On the other hand, t ouring a slum can benefit the people living there. Slums have their own economy. They are full of shops and restaurants. By making a purchase, you are adding to the economy and helping out in some way.

In addition, most organizations that run slum tours give back to the community in some way. When you pay for a tour part of the money goes toward some type of charity. For example, when you take a tour of Kibera, your money may go toward providing education for children or building infrastructure to improve the lives of people who live there.

Slum tours can also be educational. Visitors will learn about the lifestyle of the people living in the slum. People may be inspired to make donations or help in some other way. These visits can also raise awareness about the issue of poverty.

Another argument is that s lums are just parts of cities. They are neighborhoods. Taking a stroll through a slum is no different from taking a walk in the city center. These are public areas where, legally, you have the right to walk, although it may not be safe in all cases.

Personally, I see no ethical problem with touring a slum. The people are not being exploited or harmed in any way by tourists visiting. Most tourists are simply interested in learning about the lifestyle of the people living there. They aren’t trying to exploit anyone or earn any money.

Of course, you should be respectful of the residents just as you would in any other neighborhood. Don’t vandalize their property or invade their privacy by shoving your camera in their face.

One thing that you should not do is give money to people who beg. While walking around Kibera, most likely someone will approach you and ask for money. In the long run, it does much more harm than good. If you wish to make a donation, there are legitimate charitable organizations that can put the money to good use.

For more info, check out my guide to dark tourism ethics and criticisms .

Volunteering or Donating Money in Kibera

Visiting a slum like Kibera can be a profound experience. This may be the poorest slum in the world. If, after your visit, you have the desire to volunteer or make a donation, it is possible. Several nonprofit organizations do work in Kibera.  For example, UN-Habitat and a few other agencies are working in Kibera.

I am not familiar with any of the specific organizations but one piece of advice that I can give is to be very cautious of which organization you decide to work with or donate to. This is true not only in Kibera but in all of Africa.

Most volunteer organizations are corrupt or simply not efficiently run. There are cases where less than 5% of donations actually go toward helping the people in need. Officials pocketing donations while the needy starve is a real problem. Some of these organizations operate as businesses where the volunteer is the customer. Oftentimes volunteers end up accomplishing nothing or in some cases do more harm than good.

With that being said, there are charitable organizations do a lot of good in the Nairobi slum. The most reliable way to find legitimate volunteer work in Kibera and in East Africa, in general, is to travel there and seek it out. By actually being there you can see with your own eyes what the organization is accomplishing

My Experience Visiting the Kibera Slums

When I arrived in Nairobi, I didn’t even know Kibera existed. A guy I met at the hostel told me about it and invited me along to check it out with him. In the afternoon, we ordered an Uber to Kibera. The driver wasn’t very keen on going there and didn’t understand why we wanted to go but he took us anyway.

During the drive there, our driver warned us that it was a dangerous place to go. He gave us his number and offered to pick us up in a couple of hours.

When we arrived, the first thing we did was walk uphill to get a view of the area. The view was pretty incredible. There were rusty corrugated metal roofs as far as the eye could see.

Next, we started wandering through the slum. We walked through some quiet residential areas. We saw some kids kicking around a homemade soccer ball made from string and garbage. There were also some people hanging their laundry to dry.

Next, we walked down to the stream and walked across a couple of wooden bridges. There were some kids playing near the water. The water was absolutely filthy.

We then wandered along the railroad tracks until we found a market. There, we looked around at some shops and bought some drinks. I noticed a guy selling old electronics such as TV remotes and random cables.

After that, we walked back to the main road. We tried to call our Uber driver but he didn’t pick up. We ended up walking back to our hostel. If we wanted to, we could have taken a matatu or called another Uber but we decided to walk instead.

When I returned to Nairobi a couple of years later, I decided to take a tour of Kibera to get a little bit more information about it. The tour was interesting but not really necessary.

A Bit of History About Kibera

The land where Kibera is located has been occupied since the city of Nairobi was founded in 1899. In the early 20th century, during British colonial rule, Nubian soldiers, who were loyalists to the British army, were allocated this piece of land as a reward for their services in the King’s African Rifles (KAR).

Originally, Kibera was a forest located on the outskirts of Nairobi. This area was originally referred to as ‘Kibra’ meaning ‘forest’ in the Nubian language. As the city grew, the transformed from an expanse of woodland to a bustling settlement.

With time, various ethnic communities from different parts of Kenya migrated to Nairobi in search of better opportunities. They rented land in Kibera from the Nubians. This resulted in the area evolving into a melting pot of diverse cultures, languages, and traditions.

Over time, the population grew. Kibera experienced massive population growth from births as well as migration. People moved from rural areas of Kenya into the city to look for work. Many people moved from neighboring developing countries of Somalia, South Sudan, and Uganda. Makeshift houses sprouted up, shaping Kibera’s unique landscape.

The city of Nairobi also grew to surround the informal settlement. Originally, Kibera was on the edge of Nairobi. Now it’s near the center of it. Currently, around 15% of Kibera is occupied by Nubians who originally migrated from the Kenya-Sudan border. The majority of the shacks are owned by Kikuyu (these are the Majority tribe in Nairobi).

During the 1920s and 1930s, proposals were made to relocate the families living in Kibera and demolish the slum. Residents objected and the slum remains to this day. More recently, there were proposals to build high-rise apartments for the urban poor to move into.

Final Thoughts

While it is incredibly heartbreaking to see so many people living in such extreme poverty, it is, at the same time, fascinating to see. As you walk through the narrow streets of the slum you that life here can be pretty normal. People run small businesses such as convenience stores and barber shops. Children run around laughing and playing with balls made from nothing but trash wrapped in string. People are just living their lives the best way they can under the circumstances. People can live relatively happy lifestyles with very little.

It’s also interesting to note that not everyone living in Kibera is there out of necessity. Some people live there by choice. People choose to move to a Nairobi slum from other parts of Kenya while they’re looking for work in the city. Some young people choose to live there to save money. Not everyone is living in extreme poverty.

of course, there are plenty of people suffering in Kibera. There is crime, disease, poverty, and malnutrition. Many people are unemployed. Many kids aren’t receiving any education. The area has many problems.

How do you feel about the ethics of touring a slum like Kibera? Share your thoughts and experience in the comments below.

More Africa Guides from Where The Road Forks

• How to Plan a Cairo to Cape Town Trip
• 21 Best Things to Do in Nairobi
• Why Nairobi is the Best African City
• The Travelers Guide to Malaria Prevention, Treatment, and Tablets in Africa
• How to Safari in Kenya for Less Than $200: Maasai Mara on a Budget
• The Ultimate African Bus Guide
• 23 Best Cities to Be a Digital Nomad in Africa

Zachary Friedman is an accomplished travel writer and professional blogger. Since 2011, he has traveled to 66 countries and 6 continents. He founded ‘Where The Road Forks’ in 2017 to provide readers with information and insights based on his travel and outdoor recreation experience and expertise. Zachary is also an avid cyclist and hiker. Living as a digital nomad, Zachary balances his professional life with his passions for hiking, camping, cycling, and worldwide exploration. For a deeper dive into his journey and background, visit the About page. For inquiries and collaborations, please reach out through the Contact page. You can also follow him on Facebook.

Sharing is caring!

Sign me up for the newsletter!

BEA ADVENTUROUS

Kibera Slum: Life in Africa’s largest shanty town

As part of my recent trip to Kenya with Indy Escapes , I had the opportunity to visit an NGO that was nestled in the heart of the Kibera Slum. The day we spent with the Edmund Rice Centre impacted me like no other experience ever has. I have visited many shanty towns throughout my travels, but I have never been immersed in them as I was in Kibera. We were here to learn about the work that the Edmund Rice Centre does so that we could help them raise funds. I never expected it to touch me quite so profoundly as it did. I’ve been to refugee camps and visited some of the poorest countries in the world , but following Shosho into her home in the heart of Kibera Slum was like nothing I’ve experienced before.

What's in this post:

Words straight from my heart

Below are the unedited words I wrote to my family the day after:

Yesterday was a heavy day. So heavy in fact that I didn’t even know how to start talking about it, either on Instagram or for this email update. How can I possibly put into words the reality of what I witnessed? I’ve been to shanty towns before. I’ve seen people living with the bare minimum, but yesterday completely overwhelmed me.

We were visiting an NGO within Kibera slum, the largest slum in Africa and the third largest in the world. It’s hard to find an estimate of how many people live in Kibera as reports vary wildly. However, the one number they seem to more or less agree on is the density of the population: 300,000 people per square kilometre. For context, in London, it is 5,500 people per square km. And in New York, 11,300. It is believed that 1.5 million people live within the Kibera slum under these cramped conditions.

Most Kibera slum residents live in extreme poverty, earning less than $2 a day. Unemployment rates are high, and crime is rampant. Muggings, robbery and gender base violence happen daily, and the slum cartel controls electricity and water.

Poverty Taxes

12% of the residents live with HIV, and diseases caused by poor hygiene and damp conditions are prevalent. There are toilets (a non-portable version of a portaloo) that the residents must pay to use. The cost? 10 cents per use, and these are padlocked shut. When wages are $1-2 a day, paying to go to the loo seems like a frivolous expense, especially when most families are made up of 5 or more people. Instead, they urinate on the streets and poo in a bag, which then they fling, passers-by beware!!

There are taps with “clean” water for cleaning and cooking, but they have to buy drinking water. They often don’t have enough money to buy bigger barrels, so instead, they spend more money on smaller containers. They do have electricity, which is illegally wired. The poor infrastructure often causes fires, which then spread rapidly throughout the neighbourhood. Putting it out is down to the residents, as firefighters rarely attempt to enter the narrow, muddy streets.

The Edmund Rice Centre

Life in a slum is hard, there is no doubt about it, but visiting the Edmund Rice Centre gives a whole new meaning to how challenging it is for the most vulnerable children in the community: those with disabilities.

The Edmund Rice Centre is a community-based organisation that provides educational, vocational, and livelihood services to children and young adults with autism, Down syndrome, multiple sclerosis, and other forms of physical and cognitive disabilities.

The beneficiaries are taught basic learning skills based on their abilities, which include reading, writing, creative activities and daily living activities such as getting dressed, personal hygiene, and cooking. Their guardians are also empowered through various trainings on handling and offering support.

The aim is to empower the beneficiaries and their families to live without financial support by creating and running small businesses and learning to manage all daily tasks. In addition, they have an advocacy program to promote inclusion and opportunity for people who would otherwise be massively discriminated against and marginalised.

Going deep into Kibera Slum

Their motto, which I love, is “Don’t give us sympathy, give us opportunity”. Yet, as I write this email, my eyes are teared up. After meeting the kids and learning about the various projects they run, I got the chance to walk to one of the kid’s homes deep in the Kibera slum.

Forget disability for a moment. That commute would be challenging for anybody. Down steep, muddy slopes, up knee-high steps, through narrow alleyways with sharp corrugated iron waiting to snag you at any opportunity. Stinky sewages that need to be jumped over, wooden planks that need to be navigated. We walked for 20 minutes until we reached Shosho’s home.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Lucas Chesterton (@lucaschesterton)

We had sweat running down our backs, and all we were carrying was ourselves. Now imagine doing that twice a day while carrying a 15-year-old boy with multiple sclerosis on your shoulders. But her son is one of the lucky 77 the project can support. 2.2% of Kenyans live with a disability. If that same percentage applies to Kibera (I can’t find any stats), there could easily be 33,000 individuals! 

But Shosho isn’t the only one that faces challenges. Many of the kids have to navigate a similar journey on their own. Kids with Down syndrome walk themselves home after school every day despite their vulnerability to physical and sexual assault. 

My heart breaks at the thought of it. 

Welcome to my home

Shosho invited us into her home. A 3×3 metre mud hut with a sheet dividing it in half. On one side of the sheet was a bed and storage area. On the other side was a multipurpose wooden plank that served as a bed for three children, a sofa, and a table. The remaining floor space was the kitchen and a shower (by that, I mean an area to light a fire and the same space in which to throw water over themselves). The light flickered, and I tried to imagine what kind of existence that was.

Outside her home, a communal washing line prompted me to ask how they dry their clothes in the rainy season. “They hang them inside their homes” – someone explained. “But as they can only afford one school uniform, kids will put their clothes on wet with an extra layer on top to stop them getting cold”. I’ve had to do that a couple of times in my life when camping. It is not nice. I can’t imagine doing it day in and day out for weeks on end. 

Luxury within the slums

We then went to a second home, which felt positively luxurious. It was on the outskirts of the slum and was much bigger. Behind their curtain, they had two small double beds, one for the parents and one for the kids. This meant they had space for a sitting room with two chairs, a small sofa, a coffee table and a TV. They had a stove in the corner and a tiny compartment at the back to shower in. They didn’t have a toilet, but they could afford to use the local one. Their entire house was still smaller than my kitchen (ignoring the dining area of it), and yet here I am thinking of it as “luxurious”. 

However, the proximity to the road comes with other challenges. During recent political demonstrations, the police tear-gassed the neighbourhood adjacent to the road, which seeped into their home. Their neighbour’s kid died as a result of the tear gas. 

It was a challenging day. I kept remembering their motto: “Give us opportunity, not sympathy”. 

How can you help?

If any of what I’ve written has moved you, and you want to support the work that the Edmund Rice Centre is doing, then please donate on our GoFundMe page . Giving up one Starbucks coffee this week and gifting the cost of it could make a huge difference to some of the most vulnerable and marginalised kids in this world.

Was the tour ethical?

One of my biggest concerns when travelling and connecting with NGOs is whether the experience is ethical. Sadly, I have visited some projects where the kids are paraded for the benefit of tourists. Good doers pose for selfies and leave feeling good about themselves because they have played with vulnerable children for half an hour and donated some money for the privilege of doing so. In my opinion, that is not ethical tourism, no matter how good the intentions are.

I felt that the Edmund Rice Centre was different. We spent more time learning about the project than with the kids, as they didn’t want us to interrupt their schooling. We also didn’t go into the slums to ogle at how people live, but instead to give us perspective as to the challenges their beneficiaries face daily.

If you are in Nairobi, I recommend you visit the Edmund Rice Centre store to buy some of the goods the kids and their parents have made. It is an excellent way of supporting the charity ethically, and you will get a chance to understand just how big a difference the team at the Edmund Rice Centre makes.

If you are a young professional looking for similar culturally immersive experiences, I recommend you check out Indy Escapes , as they do a brilliant job of merging culture, charity and wildlife as part of their tours. I will forever be grateful for the opportunity they gave me to experience life in the Kibera Slums.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

Foods of New York Tour Review – The Original Greenwich Tour

10 Peak Challenge

Rome Travel Diary

A complete Guide Including the top FREE things to do in Bath

Discover more from bea adventurous.

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Type your email…

Continue reading

• Share full article

Advertisement

Supported by

Nicholas Kristof

This Kenyan Slum Has Something to Teach the World

By Nicholas Kristof

Opinion Columnist

NAIROBI, Kenya — Here in the Kibera slum, life sometimes seems a free-for-all. Residents steal electricity by tapping into overhead lines, children walk barefoot through alleys trickling with sewage, and people occasionally must dodge “flying toilets” — plastic bags that residents use as toilets and then dispose of by hurling them in one direction or another.

Yet this is an uplifting slum. Against all odds, Kibera is also a place of hope, and it offers a lesson in bottom-up development that the world should learn from.

The tale begins with a boy whose single mom — 15 years old when she gave birth — named him Kennedy, because she wanted him to be like an American president she had heard of. Little Kennedy Odede didn’t attend formal school, and at the age of 10 he ran away from a violent stepfather and ended up sleeping on the streets.

Kennedy taught himself to read and was inspired by a biography of Nelson Mandela that a researcher shared with him. Kennedy, ebullient and charismatic, then formed a Kibera self-help association called Shining Hope for Communities, better known as SHOFCO .

An American student from Wesleyan University, Jessica Posner, volunteered at SHOFCO and then persuaded Wesleyan to accept Kennedy as a full scholarship student, even though he had never even gone through a real elementary school. Jessica and Kennedy fell in love and married when he graduated.

One of SHOFCO’s early projects was Kibera School for Girls, which recruited some of the most impoverished girls in the slum. Their parents were sometimes illiterate, and one-fifth of those little girls had been sexually assaulted. Yet the girls knew that they were special, and with intensive tutoring they turned into star students, outperforming children at expensive Kenyan private schools.

I am an old friend of Kennedy and have been following his work since my first visit a dozen years ago. One girl I met then, when she was a second grader, is now studying at Columbia University. Her former classmates are studying at four other American universities as well as at Kenyan universities.

Let’s just acknowledge that development is hard, particularly in urban slums that are growing fast around the world. Billions of dollars are poured into the poorest countries, and in Haiti and South Sudan one sees fleets of expensive white S.U.V.s driven by aid organizations; what’s missing is long-term economic development. International aid keeps children alive, which is no small feat. But it has had less success in transforming troubled places.

That’s where SHOFCO is intriguing as an alternative model. Its grass-roots empowerment approach has similarities with BRAC , a Bangladesh-based development organization that I consider one of the most effective aid groups in the world, and with Fonkoze , a similar homegrown nonprofit in Haiti.

“Development has been part of imperialism — you know better than anybody else because you’re from America or Europe,” Kennedy told me. He thinks international aid sometimes is ineffective partly because it feels imposed by the outside.

SHOFCO has spread through low-income communities across Kenya and now boasts 2.4 million members, making it one of the largest grass-roots organizations in Africa. It provides clean water, fights sexual assault, runs a credit union, coaches people on starting small businesses, runs libraries and internet hot spots, mobilizes voters to press politicians to bring services to slums, runs public health campaigns and does 1,000 other things.

It succeeds, I think, because it exemplifies a partnership: local leadership paired with a reliance on the best international practices. SHOFCO, for example, adopted deworming and cervical cancer prevention programs that reflect the best international knowledge, and these were accepted by local people partly because they trusted Kennedy.

I had wondered how scalable SHOFCO was: Did it depend on Kennedy’s charisma, making it hard to replicate in other slums? No, the model has actually scaled smoothly across the country — and other Kenyan slums turned out to have their own untapped Kennedys.

I often write about poverty, and while the subject can be depressing at times, I also regularly find reason to be inspired.

One woman I met on this visit to Kibera is Lauren Odhiambo, 23, a SHOFCO member whose dad died when she was young. She shares a two-room shanty with six family members and occasional rats. The home has no kitchen or running water, and evening requires some planning: The neighborhood toilet is locked from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m.

Her mom earns $70 a month washing other people’s clothes. But Lauren joined SHOFCO and took a computer skills class that led to a job that pays $250 a month. Lauren has used that income to work her way through the University of Nairobi, and this year she will become the first person in her family with a college degree. After graduation, she expects to find a job paying $400 a month.

This wouldn’t have happened without SHOFCO, she said, and I asked her why, expecting her to talk about the computer skills she learned. Instead, she made a broader point: The program taught her that slum dwellers are as good as anybody else.

“I gained not just skills,” she said. “I gained confidence.” As for the ongoing challenges she sees around her in Kibera, she added, “It’s on us to change it.”

Kibera still needs sewers, schools and decent roads, but Lauren’s success is a reminder of what a grass-roots organization can accomplish against all odds in even the grittiest slum. That fills me with hope. Shining hope.

The Times is committed to publishing a diversity of letters to the editor. We’d like to hear what you think about this or any of our articles. Here are some tips . And here’s our email: [email protected] .

Nicholas Kristof joined The New York Times in 1984 and has been a columnist since 2001. He has won two Pulitzer Prizes, for his coverage of China and of the genocide in Darfur. You can follow him on  Instagram  and Facebook .  His latest book  is “Tightrope: Americans Reaching for Hope.”  @ NickKristof • Facebook

Visit Kibera Expeditions

A commitment to innovation and sustainability

Études is a pioneering firm that seamlessly merges creativity and functionality to redefine architectural excellence.

A passion for creating spaces

Our comprehensive suite of professional services caters to a diverse clientele, ranging from homeowners to commercial developers.

Renovation and restoration

Experience the fusion of imagination and expertise with Études Architectural Solutions.

Continuous Support

Project management, architectural solutions, an array of resources, études architect app.

• Collaborate with fellow architects.
• Showcase your projects.
• Experience the world of architecture.

Études Newsletter

• A world of thought-provoking articles.
• Case studies that celebrate architecture.
• Exclusive access to design insights.

“Études has saved us thousands of hours of work and has unlocked insights we never thought possible.”

Annie Steiner

CEO, Greenprint

Watch, Read, Listen

Hello world, join 900+ subscribers.

Stay in the loop with everything you need to know.