trek brake parts

Trek 6000 Brake Component Replacement

Introduction.

Before beginning, be sure to wear clothes that you won't mind possibly getting grease on. This guide may be helpful if you are having issues with your brakes and need to replace them. This guide may also be uesful if you would like to upgrade the components on your bike.

What you need

Step 1 trek 6000 brake component replacement.

Carefully flip bike over, balancing it on the handle bars and seat.

Use a level floor free of clutter.

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Release the clamping mechanism that holds the front forks to the wheel bearing by twisting it 180 degrees.

Remove the plastic nut that is located on the opposite side.

Remove the axle bolt and pay attention to the order and orientation of the springs.

Remove the front wheel from the forks by lifting it straight up.

Remove the 6 screws holding the brake rotor to the front wheel using the T25 Torx driver.

When installing the new brake rotor, be sure to orient the arrow shown in the wheel's direction of travel.

Loosen the brake cable clamp using the 5mm allen wrench until the cable can be pulled free.

Remove the two screws holding the caliper to the front fork using the 5mm allen wrench. Be sure to pay attention to the order and orientation of the washers.

Remove the cable by twisting the black plastic cable guide out of the hole.

Align the channels on the guide and the nut to free the cable.

To reassemble your bike, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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with 1 other contributor

Mario Maraccini

Member since: 09/24/17

101 Reputation

1 Guide authored

Michigan Tech, Team S5-G8, Galliah Fall 2017 Member of Michigan Tech, Team S5-G8, Galliah Fall 2017

MTU-GALLIAH-F17S5G8

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Brakes/Levers/Pads

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Basic Bicycle Anatomy 101 - Brake Systems

T here are many different types of brakes. However, we are only going to cover the 4 most common. Below each type shown here we will describe the very basic pros, cons, and uses for each type of brake.

Caliper Brake

The caliper brake is probably the MOST common type of brake on bicycles. It is strong, sleek, dependable and simple. It is a rim brake since the way it works is by clamping down on the metal rim. It is the standard on almost all road bikes and most youth bikes.

Cantilever Brakes

Cantilever brakes are far more powerful than caliper brakes. Although a little less aero-dynamic. These are most commonly used on "cyclo-cross" bikes. These bikes are either set up for or designed for cyclo-cross racing which is where one uses a road style bike to race across light-off-road terrain. Cyclo-cross bikes have a great need for a more powerful brake than what standard caliper brakes can provide. A special fork is required to mount these brakes to a road-style bicycle.

V Brakes are the most common term for this style of brake. Shimano actually named these and other brake companies label them "linear-pull" or "direct-pull" brakes. These brakes are extremely powerful. They are most common on mountain and off-road bikes. They have the power to slow and stop a wet or even muddy wheel making them ideal for off-road use. They are a little heavier than either Cantilever or Caliper brakes. These brakes are a "rim brake" style of brake and they require frame/fork mounts to be attached to a bike.

Disc Brakes

Disc brakes are more powerful than V-brakes and require less hand strength to operate. They are heavier though. They are not a "rim-brake" as they do not clamp the rim but rather to a hub-fixed "rotor". Disc brakes require a compatible hub, wheel rim, and frame/fork. Disc brakes come in two different styles, Hydraulic or Mechanical cable-pull (mechanical cable-pull shown in diagram above) These brakes are great for fast descents on off-road trails. They can handle high heat without damaging the tire by heating up the rim as "rim-brakes" do. We are talking about descents like 65 mile per hour for 20 minutes straight with many turns. Disc brakes are completely immune to trail debris, water, and mud. If a rider runs through a creek deep enough to get the rotor wet/muddy the hard pads will sheer the water and mud off the rotor immediately with their phenomenal strength and pressure. All rim brakes with their rubber pads have a tendency to harbor dust, sand, or mud in the (comparatively) softer rubber pads making their performance somewhat delayed in a high speed situation. Simply put, Disc brakes are stronger, more dependable in dirty environments, and are immune to heat (from friction caused by use).

Continue to pedals & shoes>>

Quick links to specific bicycle sections & parts:

Frame Terminology>> Bicycle Front End>> Bicycle Center>> Bicycle Back End>> Shocks>> Brakes>> Pedals & Shoes>>

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Steve Cowles

• stevecowles
• Mar 27, 2021

Bike DIY Disc-Brake Pad Change

I took the rear wheel off Boris (my NCM Moscow Plus) to swap the tube out as I find it easier to do this and then repair them for use as a spare. Whilst I was at it, it seemed like a good idea to change the brake pads as they were significantly worn. I've not done this before but actually, it was a very straightforward job.

These are certainly the smallest brake pads I've ever changed (on a beer mat to show the scale), I'm more used to changing them on a car or van. The brakes in question are Tektro MD-M280 Hydraulic (180mm) which I find very effective.

The replacement pads I chose are generic (cheap) metal sintered ones and made the first trip down Kells hill a little interesting but they seem to have bedded in OK after about 10 miles.

The front pads could also do with being replaced but I will let the rear ones have a hundred miles to bed in fully before I do so, hopefully, this will mean that I continue to have close to 100% braking efficiency throughout the process.

The tips that I would pass on are

Remove the calliper from the bike, it is far easier this way and only involves removing two 5mm Allen bolts (use blue thread sealer when reassembling)

On no account should you touch the brake lever when doing this. If you do so the piston will activate and you will have a job to put it back in fully, and will probably need to bleed the system too.

Avoid touching the pad surface or disc rotor with your hands, they are easily contaminated with grease which will reduce your braking.

All in all, a simple DIY job that most owners can manage themselves.

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