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The concept of the cruise collection explained

Initially created for a select group of wealthy clients taking mid-winter holidays, the cruise collection has evolved into one of the most important of the year.

The Louis Vuitton Cruise 2019 Collection was presented at the Maeght Foundation art collection in Saint Paul de Vence last month. AP

S ometimes called cruise, or pre-spring, or resort, or even holiday, this is the collection on everyone's lips. And with brands in the midst of showing their cruise 2019 collections, it seems like an ideal time to take a closer look at what all the fuss is about.

Cruise is a mid-season, mini-fashion collection, essentially designed for those who winter onboard a yacht. At least that’s how it all started, when, in 1919, Gabrielle Chanel realised that her wealthy clients were taking mid-winter holidays in the Mediterranean and required a new wardrobe for their travels. Chanel ran up a collection of lightweight, easy-to-wear pieces suitable for a trip on a steamship, and the world’s first cruise collection came into being.

“[Cruise collections] really did start as a small capsule collection of clothing for a cruise or resort style vacation somewhere warm and sunny,” Sass Brown, founding dean of the Dubai Institute of Design and Innovation, says. “Inevitably, they were aimed at the high-end consumer who could afford to take a cruise outside of the usual summer vacation period.”

Fast-forward 100 years and the world is a very different place, with a crowded fashion market, online shopping and a new breed of informed, impatient and demanding consumer. To attract the modern shopper's attention, brands must deliver new and exciting products in fresh and engaging ways. The standard model of just two collections a year – spring/summer and autumn/winter – feels increasingly out of step with what customers actually want.Under the two-season model, the arrival of stock in-store is dictated more by production cycles than by when the customer might need it. "It used to be usual for a brand to deliver spring/summer in January and fall/winter in July; times of the year when much of the western hemisphere is not nearly ready to purchase them," Brown says. Frustrated with such a disconnection, savvy consumers began looking to cruise, which, although still aimed at wealthy holidaymakers, offered a new approach that delivered a smaller range, but one that was less season-specific and more in tune with modern customers' lifestyles.

"With the speeding-up of the fashion cycle," Brown says , "there is a far greater expectation to continuously show something new, year-round, to consumers and media. It has become increasingly important for brands to fulfil that expectation to maintain exposure. The inevitable shortened attention span means brands have to keep pace and can no longer remain relevant with just two collections a year."

Cruise collections are now generally unveiled in May, to go into stores in November, after the main winter collection has arrived. Customers have found that this offering of lighter pieces folds seamlessly in with their already purchased winter items, while for markets like the Middle East, where autumn/winter collections are largely irrelevant, cruise is a perfect solution.

Snapped up by an ever-growing number of clients, resort collections have become increasingly important for business because “they enable the spread of cash flow across more than two main seasons”, says Brown. “With the globalisation of branding, a pre-collection also allows brands to appeal to a broader, more diverse global audience, who deal with a diversity of climates.”

Some brands report that cruise now represents 60 per cent of annual turnover, and with the global fashion industry worth an estimated $1.2 trillion (Dh4.4tn), the figures are potentially huge. As far back as 2011, Bruno Pavlovsky, the president of fashion for Chanel, explained to WWD that cruise “now represents Chanel’s biggest and most important delivery of the year”.

Unlike the ready-to-wear spring/summer or autumn/winter shows, which are so tightly bunched into fashion weeks it becomes almost claustrophobic, there are no such restrictions with cruise collections. Taking place outside of the regular schedule, this effectively gives labels far more freedom to do as they please. Which often translates into the use of glamorous and exotic locations that feel hip and of the moment.

For cruise 2016, Louis Vuitton showed at Bob Hope’s famous home in Palm Springs, followed by the spectacular Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, for cruise 2017. For 2018, meanwhile, it headed to Kyoto. Christian Dior went to Blenheim Palace for 2017, and then Calabasas in America for 2018. Gucci, meanwhile, showed its cruise 2017 collection in Westminster Abbey, headed to Florence for 2018, and showed its latest line in Arles, France. Chanel journeyed to Seoul, South Korea, for resort 2016, and to Cuba for cruise 2017.

As Brown points out: “It is an opportunity for a brand to mix things up and keep things interesting, by doing shows in exciting and desirable locations. It also offers the brand an opportunity to differentiate the pieces from the main collection by showing them in a different location with a different flavour or style.”

The change of style often comes through as broader themed collections that are innovative but also highly wearable. From the brand’s side, while it costs money to stage these lavish shows (Business of Fashion estimates that larger houses are spending up to $10 million per event), it does mean that your best customers can be whisked away to a private location and guided through the new offering completely undistracted.

Since its inception, cruise has essentially been about grabbing attention, and the 2019 collections are proving to be no exception. For its show earlier this month, Chanel returned to the very nature of cruise, by building a life-size ship in Paris' Grand Palais, complete with a smoking funnel. Called La Pausa (after Gabrielle's famed summer home), the ship took four weeks to build off-site, and a further 15 days to construct in situ. The clothes continued the theme, offering a breezy take on boating sophistication with jaunty stripes and multiple shades of blue. It was resoundingly optimistic and, once the show was over, the whole audience was invited on board. Christian Dior, meanwhile, decamped from Paris to Chantilly, the French town famous for its lace. Despite being rained on at the open-air hippodrome, Maria Grazia Chiuri's collection was based on the style of dress of escaramuza riders, a band of famous female Mexican rodeo riders whose look of cinched waist over full skirts (a near doppelganger for Dior's own aesthetic) here came finished with riding hats and horse nose-bag sized holdalls. Peasant dresses were covered in traditional Mexican embroidery, and worn with Frida Kahlo-esque centre partings. Wide brimmed hats appeared alongside velvet riding jackets, while delicate vintage-looking prints were made into sweatshirts and full skirts, light as air.

Prada, meanwhile, upped sticks to New York for only its second cruise show, presenting an astonishing collection brimming with trademark retro-inspired patterns and unnerving colour combinations, all revisited and reconsidered. Brilliantly wearable, it seems Prada is making up for lost time.

Notably, after past seasons where cruise collections were shown in increasingly exotic global destinations, this season the focus seems very much on France, and all things French. “France has always been the home of luxury fashion, and the labels showing in France this year are predominately European and many are French. There is always greater cultural significance in the choice of location however, and France is definitely enjoying a moment right now,” says Brown.

“The young French president (Emmanuel Macron) signals positive change, and fashion is always about change,” she adds. “He is positioning France as an inclusive, forward-thinking country welcoming environmental scientists from around the world, and encouraging technology start-ups. Ian Rogers, the chief digital officer at LVMH, has compared Paris now to Shoreditch and Brooklyn in their heyday of creative explosion.”

Where better, then, to show the most significant collection of the year?

______________

[  Gucci to present spring/summer 2019 collection in Paris  ]

Vuitton in starry homage to fashion's 'Amazing Grace'   

Ghoulish fashion from Gucci   

______________ 

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All you need to know about cruise collections

Words by Lauren Cochrane

29 June 2020

https://quintessentially.com/…

Anyone with half an eye on fashion knows that February and September are the so-called ‘fashion months’, when new collections are revealed across cities around the world. But, increasingly, May is on the calendar too. That’s thanks to the cruise shows - when a third annual collection is sent down select runways. 2019’s cruise shows have seen fashion editors travel to Marrakech (Dior), Paris (Chanel), New York (Prada, Louis Vuitton) and Rome (Gucci). While February and September mean a packed fashion schedule, cruise is the Champions League of fashion weeks. It’s a time when the mega-brands flex their muscles.

And they do. 2019’s series of cruise destinations sounds glamorous but previous years have seen fashion editors find themselves in a tree-lined museum in Kyoto (Louis Vuitton), Pierre Cardin’s ‘bubble house’ near Cannes (Dior) and a man-made island in Dubai (Chanel). These brands know that these shows need to be jaw-dropping. It’s estimated that cruise collections now account for up to 60% of a brand’s revenue. No wonder Chanel was willing to spend a reported $1.7m (£1.29m) on the Dubai show.

As the name suggests, cruise collections were originally released halfway through a season, for a jet-set clientele who might go on a cruise, or certainly travel throughout the year. Apparently, Coco Chanel herself started it 100 years ago when she noticed the travel habits of well-heeled customers. Designed for a winter sun customer, clothes were kind of chic but uncomplicated trans-seasonal adaptable pieces to reflect that.

Fast-forward to now and cruise collections work for a different cultural shift. This is about newness. Cruise, presented in May and instore in November, provide another mood or theme to keep the customer’s attention once she’s already explored the autumn collection. This is in line with fashion’s wider trends. Thanks to the influence of the ‘drop’ system in streetwear - where brands like Supreme release limited ranges every month or two - as well as the relentless pressure of social media, the desire for the new in fashion is growing.

So, what might you be lusting after from these collections? Chanel’s cruise this time featured the tropes of tweed, monochrome and florals - a sweet and sensitive tribute to Karl Lagerfeld, and Coco of course, by newly installed Creative Director Virginie Viard. Dior’s was an ambitious effort that collaborated with artists and designers of colour to continue designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s mythical romanticism for a feminist generation (this wasn’t entirely successful - the collection provoked a debate online about whether it was cultural appropriation). Prada’s collection, by contrast, was all business - no-brainer nice clothes that could have walked off the catwalk and into the streets of New York. Come November, that’s no doubt where they’ll be.

For guidance on creating your own cruise collection this year, your lifestyle manager can put you in touch with our team of personal stylists and shopping experts who will make sure you’re all set with your cruise wardrobe.

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V Investigate: What Is A “Cruise Collection”?

Life isn’t black and white, and fashion isn’t either. 

• Author: Reshmi Kaur Oberoi

Ever feel uncomfortable about the in-between? Well, that’s where the “cruise”, also known as “resort,” collections that designers come in. They showcase squarely in the transition between April showers and May flowers. Life isn’t black and white, and fashion isn’t either. 

Sure we have our classic Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer runways, but then we also have all those grey areas – both literally and figuratively – we’re talking about those times when it is neither hot nor cold, overcast or sunny, and you’re left standing in front of your wardrobe with the daunting task of dressing appropriately.

Cruise , interchangeable with “resort,” collections have very literal roots: For one, these itemized runway apparel were easy and breezy, tailor-made for the upper socioeconomic echelon that vacationed on those pesky off-months. Let us all recall the time after tax-day but before the unofficial start of summer that is Memorial Day weekend. It is a period oftentimes likened to the millennial “hump day” – that mid-week slump where you’re neither here nor there, anticipating rest but also wired on pending work. 

Accordingly, resort collections are on-season for consumers in the Russo-Slavic, mid- and far-east because their climates and cultural calendar are at odds with our own western hemispheric conditions. Furthermore, the harvest season that falls in April marks the new year for many cultural ethnic groups. Think: Persian Norwuz and Orthodox Easter.

The latest resort show by the house of Dior took place in Marrakech, Morocco: Case in point. Moroccan model, Nora Attal, reported exclusively on the show from her native country that was documented Instagram stories, keeping a verbal diary account of the experience. Dior’s cruise beauty epitomized beating the rising temperatures. That is to say, hair was whipped off of shoulders, tied up behind headbands of tied scarves crafted in local textiles. Mascara was waterproof and any makeup applied first went over primer to prevent melting off of products applied.  

Historically, Chanel was the first designer to introduce resort collections in 1919. It was a mid-seasonal affair of loose-fitting kaftan and tunic silhouettes and scandalously unsheathed dresses by Gabrielle Chanel for the society bunch. Later, in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld capitalized on those women escaping flocking to more temperate climates and swapped outerwear for light layers that could be peeled back or added to. The paradoxical versatility of cruise can be attributed to Chanel’s late godfather, Lagerfeld.

Despite this trailblazing turn over for what a cruise collection entails, he revisited the original nautical motif in 2017 but most closely reflected the concept with his final resort showing for  2019 . The show, unsurprisingly set in the  Grand Palais , featured an indoor cruise-liner and nautical motifs, as well as stripes in red, blue, and white as the main color scheme. The models sported shorts and bolero-like blazers that were anything but tapered, reflecting Coco Chanel’s penchant for unshapely clothing that doesn’t skim the body.

In modern times, resort refers to the  business  of fashion. That is to say, it debuts during the period after fall/winter has been discounted and prior to spring/summer items hitting shelves. Furthermore, there are sometimes winter pieces mixed into the bunch because practically speaking, not everyone encounters the TSA, opting out of vacation for whatever reason. In 2015,  Derek Lam reportedly explained the resort or cruise show’s return as being, “about creating desirable pieces that can take you from October through early spring,”

Then there are game changers like Proenza Schouler that altered the concept of resort for a financially friendly decision to merge ready-to-wear with resort when in 2016, they opted to sell pre-Fall items the day after their debut. This combining of seasonal showings reduced cost while reaping profit. 

Cruise collections are also the  optimal time  for designers to step away from the hustle and bustle of the traditional bi-annual runway shows and highlight their unique vision a part from style trends. Make no mistake, their departure from the schedule is not to the departure gate at an airport for vacationing. Designers choose specific landmarks to plant their visionary seed – and just in time for spring no less. Take Louis Vuitton’s show at Rio de Janeiro’s Niterói Contemporary Art Museum in  Brazil , home to over 10 UNESCO heritage sites. According to editor-in-chief of London-based, fittingly biannual magazine Tanked, Caroline Issa describes cruise as being “rather commercial,” and therefore when, “presented in such magical contexts, they may seem even more exciting,” than shows held during fashion week. 

The juxtaposition of a pared back editorial look fit for the sidewalk that tiptoes into street wear, with the magnificence of architectural and Amazonian settings, makes for an effortless marketing tactic. In the words of NYT Chief Fashion Critic and former model, Vanessa Friedman , “The goal is to position themselves as the royalty of the industry: authorities not just on clothes, but on all related aspects of design and lifestyle and on sucking you, the fashion buyer or the fashion viewer, ever deeper into their orbits.” But the concept of resort collections being out of the orbital of mainstream styles that caters to specific ways of dressing as is done in regularly scheduled shows, is not so much an exclusively cruise concept this year. Why? With the upcoming MET Gala’s “ Notes on Camp ,” genre, the entire idea is to stray away from the accepted- the trending- and opt for soloist looks united by being different: kitsch, unexpected, ironic, and even abstract.

Stay tuned for coverage of the upcoming resort shows and the impending MET Gala with  V Magazine  and  VMAN .

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Fashion A-Z

From applique to zippers, a comprehensive dictionary with definitions and meanings of key fashion vocabulary, written by Camilla Morton.

Crow's Feet

Crow’s Feet are the triangular stitches traditionally made at the end of pockets or darts on tailored garments. The shape is first marked by basting, before a needle twists the left to top corner in small left-to-right stitches and continues down, with top and outlined again. Crow’s feet are used to sew hidden strength in to points of stress, like pleats or corners.

Cruise Collection

Cruise Collections, or resort or holiday collections as they are otherwise known, launch between the two main ready-to-wear seasons; Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter. Originally, they were created with the jet set in mind and catered for a client who needed a wardrobe for their mid-season travels to climates different to their own. Now, they have been adopted by many of the big brands as an opportunity to inject an entirely new must-have mid-season collection into market.

Curved Seams

Curved Seams are when the fold or line is curved, like Princess seams. They add tailored fit or shape to garment. When constructing a curved seam, fabric must be evenly slashed and pulled along the seam to allow it to follow the curve desired.

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• The Destinations Issue The Beauty of Alicia Keys We Put Keys Soulcare's New "It's Like Skin" Tint to the Test How Important Is That Vacation Really? The Curious Case of the Cruise Collection 12 Summer Reads That Prove Travel Is a State of Mind Editors' Picks: Where We're Going and What We're Wearing This Summer CLOSE Part of The Destinations Issue

The Curious Case of the Cruise Collection

How the hard-to-define bridge between fall and spring became fashion's most fanciful season.

Getty Images/ Amanda Lauro

Regardless of the weather, fashion has two guaranteed seasons: spring and fall. See one yearly cycle all the way through, and you’ve more or less seen them all — florals (groundbreaking!) and bright colors for spring/summer, structured jackets, and a dark color palette for fall/winter. So too, the backdrop of each season remains remarkably consistent when the industry’s most powerful and best-dressed flock to major cities around the world to see models walk the same stark runways. As any insider will tell you, Fashion Weeks can get monotonous. There is, however, one notable exception: cruise.

This mercurial annual collection drop (and the fashion events that come along with it) is deliciously unpredictable. Unlike the year’s two major reveals, not every brand does a cruise collection, and many skip the full-on show. Those that do are usually older, established luxury brands — Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Moschino, Gucci — and they go all-in.

The cornerstone of the cruise collection is a curious blend of wearable art and wild spectacle, designed to fill the gap between spring and summer with vacation-ready party wear. Launched in some of the world's most fantastical locations, brands rent out palaces, hire fire dancers, and dock fully functional ocean liners to serve as backdrops for their collections.

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Debuting in May and usually shoppable in time for the holidays, cruise (also styled as "resort") has been escapism-adjacent since the beginning. The concept started with Gabrielle “Coco" Chanel , who, in 1919, presented a collection of lightweight womenswear suitable for sunny getaways to distant locales. The show, put on in Paris, shocked the industry with its seasonless-ness, but also delighted the jet-set crowd in Europe and the States. After all, what's not to love about a collection that's equal parts party and vacation? 

Designer imaginations run wild, and models walk runways specifically made for cruise collections shows. The lucky few editors, buyers, and influencers invited to watch the spectacle in person are flown to each far-flung location to do so. If there’s any magic left in the fashion industry, it lives in the cruise collection, and has for almost 100 years. 

The clothes themselves, unencumbered by practicality or the weather (remember, these collections cater to tropical, ski, and holiday party dressing), often show what happens when prestige fashion lets its hair down: Dresses explode with sequins, and heritage touchstones like Chanel’s eponymous tweed become cotton candy fever dream bikinis.

In the past decade, designers have started to take the idea of a getaway more literally, developing cruise collections that are vacations unto themselves. In 2014, Karl Lagerfeld had an island built in Dubai as a backdrop for Chanel’s show. In 2018, the cruise runway for Chanel was a 148-foot literal cruise ship built inside the Grand Palais in Paris. The year before that? Karl Lagerfeld couldn't find a venue in Greece he liked , so he reconstructed the Temple of Poseidon in Paris.

Each year, the ante is upped as designers compete — not necessarily with one another, but with the fantasies they’ve built in years past. Many fashion houses, Chanel notwithstanding, iterate on a particularly extravagant mood or theme. Louis Vuitton, somewhat new to the cruise collection game, held its first cruise runway show at the Palace Square in Monaco, followed by Palm Springs in 2016, before establishing a pattern of showing at modern art museums. Since then, they've debuted at the Niterói Contemporary Art Museum in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, as well as museums in Kyoto, Japan, and the South of France. 

Dior, for its part, favors palaces and grand arenas (Palais Bulles, Blenheim's Palace, the Piazza del Duomo, and the Panathenaic Stadium), while Gucci, under Alessandro Michele, opted for expansive spaces more readily available to the public: West 22nd Street in Manhattan, Westminster Abbey, Promenade Des Alyscamps. 

Against such magnificent backdrops, clothes have to shout to be heard, and most cruise collections are some of the loudest (or most experimental) expressions of their designers’ voices. Clothing that started as lightweight separates, suitable for poolside lounging, evolved into dramatically imaginative looks, from technicolor swimwear to jewel-encrusted mini skirts and hand-embroidered sheer jackets dripping in flowers. 

Cruise, at its best, can be pure fantasy. Neon signs served as the glittering backdrop for Moschino’s 2018 cruise collection, which sent dazzling showgirl costumes down the runway. Designer Jeremy Scott’s penchant for blending pop culture, kitsch, and Americana turned the volume all the way up to 11. And yet, for every swimsuit festooned with life-size doves, there was a simple high-cut one-piece with a single graphic print (worn by Hailey Bieber, of course). The moment encapsulated another curious element of cruise collections: surprisingly functional pieces, like swimwear, often pop up between and amidst other fanciful creations.

While these collections create space for designers to throw everything they’ve got into an escapist spectacle, the looks on the runway aren’t all just for show, so to speak. You can still spot tops, dresses, and skirts that are more ready to wear than what you’d see in an actual ready-to-wear collection. The reasoning is simple: Not all devoted shoppers live in places where the heavy outerwear and lush layers of fall/winter collection are viable options. The lighter-weight fabrics and ‘fits in cruise collections aren’t just playful. They’re profitable. In fact, Chanel's President of Fashion once reported that, in a single year, its cruise collection was responsible for 30% of its total revenue .

By 2019, cruise collections reached a fever pitch. Models in Dior wore ethereal gowns and walked backlit by massive bonfires outside the El Badi Palace in Marrakesh, Morocco. Louis Vuitton’s models strutted through JFK airport in glittering crop tops that looked like futuristic robot armor. During the Gucci show in Musei Capitolini, Rome, the vibe was ‘70s opulence, sequined, metallic, gender-bending, and adorned with the kinds of headdresses, crowns, and bangles you might see on gladiator royalty. The question on the mind of many folks in fashion was simply, how are they going to top this?

Then, a pandemic happened, and fashion came to a standstill. In 2021, as the world began slowly turning again, the landscape of the industry looked different. Chanel, Gucci, Armani, Prada, and Versace all canceled or postponed their cruise shows, with some fashion houses opting to shutter the concept altogether. Meanwhile, others are rethinking the very spectacle that made this entry on the fashion calendar so exciting.

With the climate crisis more front of mind than ever before, traveling for the sake of watching a runway show — the very heart of the modern cruise collection — has come under scrutiny. There may come a time when editors and influencers aren’t jetted off to see the spectacle of a cruise collection come to life.

This year at least, cruise collections have shown glimmers of their former grandeur. Outside of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, South Korea, models walked the runway for Gucci in gauzy dresses that would have been fully sheer in places were it not for the scuba suits worn underneath. On Isola Bella, an island on Italy’s Lake Maggiore, models at Louis Vuitton wore pastel gowns shaped with hoop skirts at the hems, giving them the look of decadent French pastries, with bejeweled jackets in the shape and gleam of carapaces. Collections presented in Mumbai, India, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and Mexico City, Mexico, captured the escapism and daring imagination of years past.

The spectacle is never far off, but even so, the most recent iteration of cruise slipped in a few practical moments, too. At the Alberta Ferretti Resort 2024 show, you’d be forgiven for missing the very wearable slip dresses that went down the runway under hooded, full-length sequined capes. Similarly, Gucci’s gauzy, sheer dresses could easily be worn to a dinner party — even if the models were decked out in less-than-practical scuba suits underneath. But it’s this juxtaposition, marketable and magnificent, that makes cruise collections such a joy to watch.

At its core, cruise is fashion at its most decadent. While it does serve a practical purpose, its essential nature is to delight and transport us. How that journey and joy will look in years to come is still up for debate, but for now, it seems like collections will remain dreamily, passionately curious one-offs with dramatic styling and explosive showmanship.

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Chanel Cruise/Resort Collection... EXPLAINED

The fashion houses have so many seasons now that it's becoming harder and harder to distinguish one from the next, as one show is ending and another has almost begun.  While there used to be just two collections a year for Chanel which included Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter, there are as many as six collections a year now which I will delve deeper into the details of in my next BLOG post.  For now, let's focus on Cruise.

The idea of the Cruise is quite literal as Coco Chanel wanted to design a mid-season collection that was smaller than average to appeal to her wealthy clients that who would take holidays in the middle of winter to the Mediterranean.  They were initially mostly lightweight and easy to travel and pack clothing pieces you could take aboard a yacht or ship.  Now the whole notion of the Cruise Collection has evolved to include accessories and other fashion houses are honoring this season.

This collection is by far my favorite and has always been the bite your nails, tap your toes, can't wait for it to be released season because there simply are no restrictions and it allows a brand like Chanel the freedom to make whimsical, usually location specific designs that they wouldn't ordinarily produce.  This collection is usually released around November and Chanel reported in 2019 that their Cruise Collection now represents their biggest and most important delivery of the year.

Some of the stand out shows for Chanel's Cruise Collections have been La Pausa, Seoul, Cuba, Dubai and Greece to name a few.  We always try to procure a few pieces every collection because they usually sell out instantly and are so special and unique.  Here are some examples of pieces we have in stock now, but be sure to browse our entire collection for others.  You'll know they are from the Cruise Collection because the authenticity stamp will end with a "C" for Cruise.

We are always... BUYING CHANEL

At the award shows... I JUST WANT TO SEE WHAT EVERYONE IS WEARING

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Everything You Need To Know About Chanel’s Cruise Collection

By Olivia Singer

Taking place aboard a giant ocean liner in the Grand Palais, this was a celebration of the glamour of cruise – complete with lifeboat handbags and abundant berets. Chanel’s Cruise collections are the stuff of fashion fantasy: they come complete with the likes of fully functioning rocket ships, Chanel-stacked supermarket shelves, and icebergs transported specially from the Scandinavian seas. This time, Karl Lagerfeld stayed true to form with a cruise-themed Cruise collection which was staged around a cruise ship docked in the Grand Palais. This is what you need to know: all aboard, anchors away, etc.

In 1919, Gabrielle Chanel invented the very concept of Cruise when she presented a Paris collection outside of the seasonal fashion schedule, specifically designed for the sorts of fabulous women who would holiday in her beloved Biarritz: unlined, fluid dresses formed from silk jersey, or light knits suited to breezy beachfronts. In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld developed Cruise into clothing made for women who escape bleak European winters in favour of warmer climes (Cruise collections sit on shelves between November and July) – and this collection appeared a literal reclamation of the term. While some houses have decided to rebrand and use the term “pre-collection” for practicality, and Chanel’s Cruise now extends long past holiday wear and into a complete, travel-inspired wardrobe, here was a resurrection of its original sentiment and a direct reminder that this house has changed the fashion industry, and the way women dress, forever.

In a show space that took four weeks to fabricate, 15 days to construct, and which spanned 5624 square metres and a 150-metre catwalk, was a life-size cruise liner sailing atop a shimmering cyclorama sea. It’s hard to imagine the amount of resources that go into staging such an affair – and that was even before the chimneys started steaming, or the doorways opened to the audience to reveal a two-story interior complete with grand pianos, oyster bars and under-lit plunge pools surrounding a whitewashed ballroom. This wasn’t just a (very) good show set – it was also the perfect place to stage the after party. A practical choice, then.

The good ship La Pausa was named in homage to Gabrielle Chanel’s holiday home on the French Riviera, which went by the same name and once played host to the likes of Salvador Dali, Luchino Visconti and Pablo Picasso – in fact, it was “one of the most enchanting villas that ever materialised on the shores of the Mediterranean,” proclaimed American Vogue in 1930. Such a villa is, of course, the perfect maxim for a Chanel Cruise collection – it’s the dream holiday destination, with plenty of yachts still docked in its vicinity – and now it is writ upon T-shirts, handbags and jumpers aplenty. We certainly hope a printed T-shirt constitutes an invite; the house re-bought the estate in 2005 and has now fully restored it to its original, Chanel-decorated splendour.

There are few novelty-shaped accessories quite so appealing as those which Karl Lagerfeld designs – and this time was certainly no different, with life rings translated into spherical handbags or pendant necklaces, and brooches made in the image of sailor boys. But the theme certainly didn’t stop there: there were nautical stripes in abundance; berets aplenty; porthole prints and sequinned wave motifs; the sort of rubber-soled sandals surely suited to pristine yacht floors. In case you didn’t get it, this is a cruise. You ought dress accordingly.

Speaking of dressing for cruise, this collection was even more Cher Horowitz-worthy than regular Chanel: there’s nothing like white tights worn with patent Mary Janes and topped with a beret to channel that saccharine, early-90s sweetness. Those looking for a high-octane, '80s throwback to suit their glamorous Cruise lifestyle would find plenty here, too: Dynasty shimmers and puffed jackets worn with strings of pearls piled atop; some Olivia Newton-John-worthy athleisure; pearlised PVC suiting that could have been made for Madonna. But whether you go full-on sailor girl, channel the pop icons of yesteryear or choose pastel-hued tweeds, it appears wherever you’re cruising you ought pack some pale hosiery. It’s now guaranteed to be making a comeback.

Tomorrow, as part of a new Chanel initiative, 500 students will be invited to explore the Cruise collection within the remarkable show-space – as well as to take part in a master class with President of Fashion Bruno Pavlovsky. Cruise collections are, in their origins, rather undemocratic (they were, after all, specifically designed for those holidaying in far-flung destinations) – but this is a new vision for their future. For those wondering about the next destination of the set, another future-facing Chanel mandate is that 75 percent of it will be recycled: steel is headed to a local scrap dealer, wooden planks and railings are to be reused, and the quay is going to be deconstructed and turned into paper pulp. The fantasy of Cruise is fabulous, but it’s made even better when rooted in reality.

By LAURE GUILBAULT

By Irene Kim

By Nicole Phelps

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İngilizce-Türkçe sözlükte collection 'ın çevirisi

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OBJECTS [ C ]

Taking away [ u ], money [ c ], group [ c ].

( Cambridge Yabancılar İçin Sözlük İngilizce-Türkçe 'den collection in çevirisi © Cambridge University Press)

Translation of collection | PASSWORD English–Turkish Dictionary

( PASSWORD English-Turkish Dictionary 'den collection in çevirisi © 2022 K Dictionaries Ltd)

collection örnekleri

Collection in çevirisi.

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Günün Kelimesi

desertification

the process by which land changes into desert, for example because there has been too much farming activity on it or because a lot of trees have been cut down

Fakes and forgeries (Things that are not what they seem to be)

Yeni Kelimeler

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• Yeni ve Önerilen {{#preferredDictionaries}} {{name}} {{/preferredDictionaries}}
• Tanımlar Doğal yazılı ve sözlü İngilizce'ye dair anlaşılır açıklamalar İngilizce Yabancılar İçin Sözlük Temel İngiliz İngilizcesi Temel Amerikan İngilizcesi
• Dil bilgisi ve eş anlamlılar sözlüğü Doğal yazılı ve sözlü İngilizce kullanım açıklamaları Dilbilgisi Eş anlamlılar sözlüğü
• Pronunciation British and American pronunciations with audio English Pronunciation
• İngilizce–Çince (Basitleştirilmiş) Chinese (Simplified)–English
• İngilizce–Çince (Geleneksel) Chinese (Traditional)–English
• İngilizce–Hollandaca Hollandaca–İngilizce
• İngilizce–Fransızca Fransızca–İngilizce
• İngilizce–Almanca Almanca–İngilizce
• İngilizce–Endonezce Endonezce–İngilizce
• İngilizce–İtalyanca İtalyanca–İngilizce
• İngilizce–Japonca Japonca–İngilizce
• İngilizce–Norveççe Norveççe–İngilizce
• İngilizce–Lehçe Lehçe–İngilizce
• İngilizce–Portekizce Portekizce–İngilizce
• İngilizce–İspanyolca İspanyolca–İngilizce
• English–Swedish Swedish–English
• Sözlük Plus Sözcük Listeleri
• collection (OBJECTS)
• collection (TAKING AWAY)
• collection (MONEY)
• collection (GROUP)
• PASSWORD English–Turkish    Noun
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cruise Kelimesi [Döküman]

Cruise kelimesi ile i̇lgili örnek cümleler, cruise kelimesi kullanım alanları ve bilgilendirme.

Cruise kelime genellikle gemi ve uçak yolculuklarında kullanılmaktadır. Örnek olarak; “I’m going on a cruise to the Caribbean.” Ayrıca cruise kelime bulmaca ve oyunlarda , “A cruise missile is an unmanned, self-guided weapon” şeklinde de kullanılmaktadır. Cruise kelime otomobille ilgili durumlarda, spor olaylarında veya sanat alanında kullanılmaz. Örnek olarak; “She is going on a cruise to the Bahamas.”

Cruise Kelimesi ile İlgili Eş Anlamlı Kelimeler

English synonym turkish equivalent journey seyahat voyage gemi yolculuğu excursion gezi tour tur trip yolculuk.

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