2000 jeep wrangler cruise control cable

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1997-2006 Jeep TJ / LJ Wrangler Complete Rostra Cruise Control Kit

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This is a 100% complete Rostra cruise control kit for the 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler. Kit comes with Vehicle specific wiring information as well as universal installation instructions. 3 year warranty on parts only. Works with automatic & manual transmission models. Please call with any questions regarding application or Installation.

Posted by Unknown on 15th Dec 2022

the kit works very good but the info from the cruise control store was incorrect so i went to the rostra web site which was correct and it worked perfectly

2 for 2 on this one

Posted by Matthew on 17th Aug 2022

This is the second time I have purchased this kit for my jeep wrangler. Last time I had an auto, this time I have a manual. It's a little difficult installing the clutch disengagement unit, but after i got it right, the rest was a breeze. The hardest part is finding mounting points, but once that is done, it takes little time. All in all it took about 3 hours, but I had some random things I had to deal with on my vehicle. It works perfectly. I was thinking about not using the clutch disengagement unit, but after using the cruise I absolutely see why it's needed. It would lead to over revving if it was not installed and you don't clutch break. Great investment for sure.

Excellent Product

Posted by Jeff Hutchinson on 2nd Jul 2021

Just drove 1,500 miles from Colorado to Tennessee in my 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. This cruise control worked like a champ in mountains and hills. Made the trip much easier than doing it without cruise control.

Great product. Great support.

Posted by Jeremy Millar on 22nd Dec 2016

It was my first install. 1999 Jeep Wrangler. It took me a few hours. Mike at the support Center was fantastic. Best support I've experienced with a product.

Cruise control for TJ Wrangler

Posted by Rick O on 18th Oct 2013

Decent product but universal. Not specific to model. Some difficulty with instructions for wiring but it is a universal system so that's expected. The customer service and help from Mike at thecruisecontrol store is nothing short of extraordinary ! Thank you Mike! Unit works well and I'm satisfied with it. Serves my highway driving purpose well.

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Please do not copy and paste this table into your forum posts. Please copy and paste the link below instead: ( 2000 Jeep Wrangler Cruise Control Information )

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OEM Jeep Wrangler TJ Cruise Control Motor 2000 Servo w/ Cable and Mount

OEM Jeep Wrangler TJ Cruise Control Motor 2000 Servo w/ Cable and Mount May fit other years Please check fit prior to purchase. Sold as is. Used part. Free shipping only includes the lower 48 states 18S

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Cruise Control Troubleshooting Suggestions

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I'm looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot my factory cruise control. It was working intermittently and has now stopped completely. The speedometer operates properly.  

Me too!  

I just purchased and downloaded a PDF copy of the factory service manual on eBay. It has complete wiring diagrams, so that should help. Too late now to tax my brain so I'll save it for tomorrow morning, but at first glance, it doesn't look very complicated.  

It's likely due to a vacuum leak. Do a search, and you'll find a lot of threads on the subject. Troubleshooting can be a pain, but it's one of those things you've just gotta do.  

First off, check the fuses in the interior fuse panel. The brake switch can also cause the cruise to not work.  

I had a similar issue with the CC over a year ago, what solved it was me pulling the fuse and reseating it, so i did that with every fuse on the jeep for good measure!  

The wiring diagram shows 12V through a 10A fuse on the fuse panel going to the speed control on off switch. When the switch is on, 12V flows through a normally closed contact on the brake pedal switch and then to the vent solenoid on the speed control vacuum servo. So far, my measurements confirm that there is 12V on the vent solenoid when the ignition switch is on, the speed control switch on the steering wheel is on, and the brake pedal is not depressed. When I turn off the speed control switch or press the brake pedal, the 12V on the vent solenoid goes to 0V. This would indicate to me that the fuse is good, the speed control on off switch is functioning and the brake pedal switch is functioning. Vacuum tests indicate that the vacuum connection for the speed servo at the intake manifold are the same with and without the vacuum line to the servo connected. This indicates to me that there is no vacuum leak at the moment. Since the speed control will not engage unless the vehicle is moving at about 35 MPH, the remaining tests appear to be more of a challenge. My speedometer does not operate unless the ignition switch is on. I think this confirms that it's electronic and relies on the transmission speed sensor to operate. My guess is the PCM uses the same sensor to operate the speed control servo. The speedometer and odometer operate properly, and my odometer does not record mileage when the vehicle is towed with the ignition switch off.  

The wiring diagram shows three solenoids in the speed control vacuum servo. They are labeled: Vacuum, Vent and Solenoid. I can understand the purpose of the Vent and Vacuum solenoids, but I don't have a clue what a Solenoid solenoid does.  

That is a nice diagram. The easiest thing you can do is check for 12vdc CC enable at the servo. Its the line that goes to all 3 solenoids on the right side. You need to turn the ignition to run and make sure CC on/off is on at the steering wheel. You can see that line routes from the battery, then a fuse in the PDC, then ignition switch, then a fuse in cab panel, then on/off switch, then brake switch. There is a lot of places it can be severed. If the voltage is present at the servo, you can move on.  

five.nein said: That is a nice diagram. The easiest thing you can do is check for 12vdc CC enable at the servo. Its the line that goes to all 3 solenoids on the right side. You need to turn the ignition to run and make sure CC on/off is on at the steering wheel. You can see that line routes from the battery, then a fuse in the PDC, then ignition switch, then a fuse in cab panel, then on/off switch, then brake switch. There is a lot of places it can be severed. If the voltage is present at the servo, you can move on. Click to expand...

Well, now I know quite a bit more about what's not wrong, and that's a good thing. There are 4 wires in the connector that plugs into my CC vacuum servo. PCM = Powertrain Control Module 1 - Black - Ground 2 - D.Blu/L. Grn - 12vdc from brake switch/CC on/off switch. 3 - L. Grn - from PCM 53 Vent 4 - Tan / Red - from PCM 33 Vacuum I disconnected the above plug from the CC servo. Using test clips, I grounded pin 1 and connected pin 2 to 12VDC. This is the normal state of the CC with the vehicle at rest and the CC switch on. With the ignition on, engine running (source of vacuum), CC switch on steering wheel on, and brake pedal up: I connected pin 4 to ground. Then, by connecting and disconnecting pin 3 to ground in a rapid manner, I was able to simulate a crude form of pulse width modulation similar to what's produced by the PCM. By varying the on / off ratio, I was able to cause the vacuum servo to activate and maintain a reasonably constant rpm. As I shifted the on/off ratio to more on than off, the rpm increased and vice versa. When the ground is disconnected from pin 4, the servo immediately dumps the vacuum and releases the tension on the cable to the throttle. So, I feel that I have verified that the vacuum servo, and it's control solenoids are functioning properly. Now it's time to verify continuity of the two circuits between the PCM connector and the servo connector. I hope I find something as simple as a bad connection in the PCM connector. If not, then that leaves the PCM itself and $$$$. I'll post some additional wiring diagrams from the FSM later.  

Any suggestions on how to simulate my vehicle moving at 40 mph while in my driveway so I can check the dynamic operation of the cruise control??  

I'm still curious about the vacuum itself. How'd you test it out?  

The vacuum supply for the CC servo originates from a port at the rear of the intake manifold. That connection is made with a slip on rubber hose over a barbed brass fitting that is screwed into the manifold. I removed the rubber tube to the CC servo, connected my vacuum gauge to the manifold port, and took a reading at idle and at 1500 rpm. Then I put a T in the line and reconnected the line to the CC servo. I took readings again at idle and 1500 rpm and compared them to the first readings. The readings were the same. Also, I connected the vacuum gauge to the vacuum line using a T at the point where it connects to the CC servo. The readings were the same in all cases. Had there been a significant leak, the vacuum gauge readings would have differed. Last, I treated myself to a cold beer since I didn't have to look for vacuum leaks. Later I learned that the vacuum readings were in spec. per the FSM.  

Another factor that helps to eliminate a vacuum problem is the fact the I can simulate the action of the PCM and cause the CC vacuum servo to operate in a similar manner as in the normal operating mode controlled by the PCM. Also, my first quick and dirty check for a vacuum leak was to remove the line to the CC servo and listen for a change in rpm. There was a significant change. This technique is not as good as using a vacuum gauge, but had there not been a change in rpm, I would have immediately started looking for leaks using carb cleaner. While the engine was running, I pinched off the vacuum line where it connects to the manifold, turned the engine off, and ran the simulation on the servo. I waited about a minute before I ran the simulation to allow the vacuum to leak down if there was a leak. There was enough vacuum stored to operate the servo for about 20 seconds. I'm reasonably confident that the problem isn't vacuum, but I never say never unless I want it to come back and bite me in the butt. Since the problem began as an intermittent type of problem, I probably should have started with testing the vacuum and then moved to cleaning the big connector at the PCM. But then, I might not have had a chance to really understand the CC system and missed out on some good excuses to drink a few cold ones.  

It looks like you've got into a lot more detail than I'd know how to. So kudos for being a knowledgeable fellow. I really do hope you can figure this out. Blasted Jeeps and their issues. The one month out of the year that everything is working is great. The rest of the time... And that one month isn't continuous either, but added up over the year from the days where things are good. lol  

i know the feeling of CC problems. it took me forever to check all my vac lines, turned out to be the switch itself on the steering wheel.  

In order to simulate the action of the PCM in controlling the vacuum servo, I needed a way to connect to the 4 pins in the servo plug. I didn't want to cut the wiring harness nor did I have access to another plug from a salvage yard. A quick visit to Radio Shack's local store produced an inexpensive solution. They stock a unassembled 25 pin D-Sub Connector (Part No. 276-1430 $2.99) similar to what was used on the PC parallel printer port. The connector is of no value, but there are 25 female pins loose in the package that will slip on the 4 male pins in the vacuum servo connector making a good connection. Soldering about a foot of 24awg wire on 4 of the female pins, and adding some heat shrink tubing produced a safe and easy method to make the necessary connections to the servo solenoids. General purpose clip leads were then used to connect the 4 wires to ground and 12vdc as described in an earlier post. Part of the simulation involves connecting the solenoids to ground and 12vdc one at a time with the engine off. If you listen carefully, you can hear the solenoids click as you connect and disconnect them to ground. In my case, each of the three solenoids in the CC servo made a different and distinct click. This morning, I found my hand vacuum pump that has a built in gauge. That pump would have been very useful in testing the vacuum system and running the simulation on the CC servo had I been able to find it earlier. By disconnecting the vacuum supply to the servo from the intake manifold, and connecting the line to the vacuum pump, the tests could have been performed without the engine running. It would also allowed me to perform a leak test by creating a vacuum using the pump and watching the gauge when I stopped pumping. Hopefully, the remaining tests today will yield an answer to the problem, and hopefully it will not turn out to be the PCM.  

Have you verified the vac line is connected to the reservoir box under the battery tray?  

Yes, I checked and it's connected. If this line were not connected, the measurements that I made with the vacuum gauge would have indicated a large leak. There is a check valve at the point where the vacuum line for the CC vacuum servo connects to the intake manifold. When the engine is started and idles for a moment, my vacuum gauge ,that I inserted in the line with a T fitting, stabilizes at a constant reading. When I stop the engine, the vacuum gauge continues to hold as the same reading for quite some time. If the system/line was leaking, the gauge would drop at a rate proportional to the size of the leak when the engine stopped.  

Problem Solved I removed the large connector (60 pin) to the PCM and inspected the general condition of the pins and sockets focusing on the pins that are part of the cruise control circuits. The general condition of the pins looked reasonable, but pin 33 (vacuum control line for the CC servo) was a little dark in color. I cleaned the pin and socket with contact cleaner replaced the connector and went for a test drive. The cruise control was working normal again. I can't be certain that cleaning pin 33 corrected the problem. Just removing and replacing the PCM connector could have wiped away corrosion on other pins as often happens when sockets slide off and on pins. It's probably safe to conclude that the problem was due to a poor connection on one or more connections in the PCM 60 pin connector. As a preventative measure, I used contact cleaner to clean all 60 pins and sockets in the connector. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.  

The vacuum issue appears to apply to GCs 2004 and earlier. With the 2005 redesign, it seems the problem is something else, perhaps electrical. I checked all of my PCM connections, and they looked good. The search continues...  

Cruise Control faja2008 - Did you ever get yours fixed? What was the solution? tks.  

Oh man. You're dredging up old memories! Sadly, I never fixed the issue and eventually sold the car. It was a nice car, but now I'm a Land Rover man!  

Sorry, for which vehicle does this problem occur?  

Other Ideas Hello Gentlemen, I've exhaustively perused and tried ideas in this wonderful thread to no avail. I've got good voltage and vacuum to the servo on my 1994 Jeep GC with a 4.0. I am thinking therefore it must either be the servo or cruise control cable? Any thoughts before I break down and begin replacing parts? Also, on the CC cable end at the throttle I have zip tied it on there since the clip broke. It doesn't seem this should affect anything...but I could be wrong. Thanks, Josh  

HighLonesome said: diverdude0075 said: Hello Gentlemen, I've exhaustively perused and tried ideas in this wonderful thread to no avail. I've got good voltage and vacuum to the servo on my 1994 Jeep GC with a 4.0. I am thinking therefore it must either be the servo or cruise control cable? Any thoughts before I break down and begin replacing parts? Also, on the CC cable end at the throttle I have zip tied it on there since the clip broke. It doesn't seem this should affect anything...but I could be wrong. Thanks, Josh Click to expand...

Probably not relevant but on my 98 cruise will not enable with cel on. My on/off enable button is finicky and takes a couple hard pushes before cruise is enabled.  

If the cruise control light on dash doesn't work it's the clock spring. You can check this by removing clock spring and doing a conductivity check by putting one probe in on the plug that goes into the switches and the other on the 2 pins on the backside where the 3 pin plug goes.  

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Jeep SERVO-Speed Control

• Other Name : SERVO, Speed Control; Cruise Servo, Servo
• Replaces : 53008012
• Cherokee | 1991-1996 | 2 Door Sport Utility 2WD, 2 Door Sport Utility 4WD, 2 Door Sport Utility RHD 2WD, 2 Door Sport Utility RHD 4WD, 4 Door Sport Utility 2WD, 4 Door Sport Utility 4WD, 4 Door Sport Utility RHD 2WD, 4 Door Sport Utility RHD 4WD | 4 Cyl 2.5L, 4 Cyl 2.5L Diesel, 6 Cyl 4.0L
• Comanche | 1991-1992 | 3-Person Cab 2WD, 3-Person Cab 4WD | 4 Cyl 2.5L, 6 Cyl 4.0L
• Grand Cherokee | 1993-1996 | 2WD, 4 Door Sport Utility 2WD, 4 Door Sport Utility 4WD, 4WD | 6 Cyl 4.0L, 8 Cyl 5.2L
• Grand Wagoneer | 1993 | 4 Door Sport Utility 2WD, 4 Door Sport Utility 4WD | 6 Cyl 4.0L, 8 Cyl 5.2L

• Other Name : SERVO Speed Control; Actuator, Cruise Servo, Servo
• Cherokee | 1997-2001 | 2 Door Sport Utility 2WD, 2 Door Sport Utility 4WD, 4 Door Sport Utility 2WD, 4 Door Sport Utility 4WD, 4 Door Sport Utility RHD 2WD, 4 Door Sport Utility RHD 4WD, Classic 4 Door 2WD, Classic 4 Door 4WD, Limited 4 Door 2WD, Limited 4 Door 4WD, SE 2 Door 2WD, SE 2 Door 4WD, SE 4 Door 2WD, SE 4 Door 4WD, SE RHD 4 Door 2WD, SE RHD 4 Door 4WD, Sport 2 Door 2WD, Sport 2 Door 4WD, Sport 4 Door 2WD, Sport 4 Door 4WD | 4 Cyl 2.5L, 6 Cyl 4.0L
• Commander | 2006-2007 | Base 2WD, Base 4WD, Limited 2WD, Limited 4WD, Sport 2WD, Sport 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.7L, 8 Cyl 4.7L
• Grand Cherokee | 1998-2007 | 2WD, 4WD, Laredo 2WD, Laredo 4WD, Limited 2WD, Limited 4WD, Overland 2WD, Overland 4WD, Sport 2WD, Sport 4WD | 6 Cyl 3.7L, 6 Cyl 4.0L, 8 Cyl 4.7L, 8 Cyl 5.2L, 8 Cyl 5.9L
• Liberty | 2002-2006 | Limited Edition 2WD, Limited Edition 4WD, Renegade 2WD, Renegade 4WD, Sport 2WD, Sport 4WD | 4 Cyl 2.4L, 6 Cyl 3.7L
• Wrangler | 1998-2006 | Rubicon, Sahara, SE, Sport, Unlimited, Unlimited Rubicon, X | 4 Cyl 2.4L, 4 Cyl 2.5L, 6 Cyl 4.0L

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Adding Cruise Control 05-06 Wrangler

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How can you add cruise control to 05-06 wrangler? I keep reading the forums about getting the kit and if you have the pre wiring or not. Does anyone have pictures what pre-wiring you will need and where to find the right parts to add it?  

I see jeepsareus have it for 345. Jeep Wrangler Factory Cruise Control Kit You might be able to get it out of a vehicle at a pick and pull. What version is your jeep? Fill out your profile. I am guessing no if an X, but possibly if its a sport or higher. I am not sure how much prewiring there is on cruise. I know X did not get the auto dimming mirror pre wiring but the sport did.  

SilverTJMike said: I see jeepsareus have it for 345. Jeep Wrangler Factory Cruise Control Kit You might be able to get it out of a vehicle at a pick and pull. What version is your jeep? Fill out your profile. I am guessing no if an X, but possibly if its a sport or higher. I am not sure how much prewiring there is on cruise. I know X did not get the auto dimming mirror pre wiring but the sport did. Click to expand...

I think that the info you need is at JeepsAreUs.com, see link below and description pulled from that link. The description tells what to look for in the wiring. Jeep Wrangler Factory Cruise Control Kit Description Factory original cruise control for the 2003 to 2006 Jeep Wrangler, 6 Cylinder. The Jeep must have the wiring to accept the cruise. Check for a 4 pin empty female plug near your firewall and brake booster. A custom wiring harness is required if the Jeep was not pre-wired. Please contact us if you have any questions. These kits are discontinued and in short supply.  

SN95GT50 said: I think that the info you need is at JeepsAreUs.com, see link below and description pulled from that link. The description tells what to look for in the wiring. Jeep Wrangler Factory Cruise Control Kit Description Factory original cruise control for the 2003 to 2006 Jeep Wrangler, 6 Cylinder. The Jeep must have the wiring to accept the cruise. Check for a 4 pin empty female plug near your firewall and brake booster. A custom wiring harness is required if the Jeep was not pre-wired. Please contact us if you have any questions. These kits are discontinued and in short supply. Click to expand...

Rear wiper arm removal Ignore...  

How to tell if your TJ/LJ is already Pre-wired for Cruise Control - JeepForum.com  

How easy is it to install this cruise control kit?  

I'm interested too. I do a lot of highway driving in my TJ. Would be nice to have cruise.  

Has anyone done it? I have seen the instructions and the wordless directions look like its going to be a pain the ass.  

I looked at my 06 TJ. I figured it would have the harness but it didn't. I don't think I want to mess with it if I have to do all of that wiring.  

I installed cruise control on my LJ a few months ago. Luckily I was already prewired so the install was quick and easy. If you are prewired, the kit can be installed in less than an hour taking your time and in probably 20-30 mins if you've done it before. If you're not prewired, it's obviously going to be much more time consuming and costly but probably not too overly complicated. If you have any questions or need pics of anything let me know.  

Need help with a cruise control install using the oem non cruise control kit……  

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