trek 730 multitrack geometry

Table 2 - TUBING TENSILE STRENGTH AND YIELD STRENGTH*

* Most of the information in Tables 1 and 2 was extracted from Jalon Hawk's DesperadoCycles.com web site. Included at his site is Jalon's excellent write up of the geometry and physical properties of the various tubings and what it all means.

** Tubeset weight is not consistent among tubing manufacturers. The length of some of the tubes in a set is different between makers as is the length of butted sections. As a result, the total tubeset weights are not indicative of the relative weight of the resulting bike.

HELICOMATIC HUBS

Trek used Maillard Helicomatic rear hubs on some road bike Models in the mid 80s. They were a clever French innovation using a special cassette (of cogs) that mounts onto a special hub. Great idea, but poorly engineered and tested; they proved to be unreliable. For more information, see Sheldon Brown's comments at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#helicomatic and at The Yellow Jersey http://www.yellowjersey.org/helico.html .

What to do if you have one on your Trek and it no longer works, or you want a more reliable setup? People often replace the Helicomatic hub/wheel with a freewheel wheel or freehub wheel. If they are concerned about originality, they keep their original wheel and work to find a replacement for the hub or cassette. They show up occasionally on Ebay.com.

Vintage Trek bikes were originally painted with DuPont Imron paint. Imron is a two part paint that is difficult to use by other than professional painters. Imron is still available from DuPont. Some frame painters still use it today. However, some localities have clean air regulations that prohibit its use.

Classic Rendezvous provides a list of expert bike frame painters and refinishers. Desperado Cycles uses Imron as do Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing , Rad Finishes and Spectrum Cycles . If you know of other painters who do, please let me know .

Many of the Imron colors used by Trek are still available. Trek generally used the same Imron color name as did DuPont, so it often is possible to match the original color. The Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing web site has a PDF copy of the Imron color chart on its site.

For many years, Trek had a service to repaint an old Trek for an owner or bike shop. It would not reproduce the original colors and graphics, but used the then current year graphics and colors. This way, a bike might have been made in one year but have paint and graphics from a later year. The repaint service was discontinued around 2010.

TREK DECALS

One source of reproduction Trek decals is VeloCals.com . Here are examples of reproduction Trek graphics made by VeloCals . You can contact JR Anderson of VeloCals at [email protected] .

PAINT TOUCH UP

Because the paint used on Vintage Treks, Imron, is a two-part paint, it is difficult to use for touchup. Many serious bike collectors use Testor's paint. It comes in little bottles and spray cans. It is used for car and airplane models and can be found at hobby shops in lots of colors. If you can't find a match, mix a couple of colors together.

Richard Kaufman writes: "Testor's "Model Master" Enamel Paint in FRENCH BLUE is a virtual match for the Dupont Imron "Race Blue" on my '85 Trek 600. No mixing with other colors required, in my opinion."

Car paint touch up paint also works fine. Get it at a car parts store or car dealer. The bottle comes with its own paintbrush. Color matching can take a bit of work, you may need to mix two or more bottles.

Others have had good luck with fingernail polish, red bikes are especially good for this but, depending on the latest fashion, other colors work as well.

Another option is take the bike to a specialty shop that sells auto paints (not just an auto body shop). They will scan the paint on the bike and mix a perfect match. They can give you the paint in a jar or can put it in a spray bottle. It is a bit pricey; on the order of $60.

THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY

Trek ran the rear derailleur cable through the right chainstay for most of their steel road bikes beginning in 1985 and ending in 1989. A clever idea - that has its supporters and detractors. However, cleverness is also required when replacing the cable. Rich Tong's "Tong Family Blog" lists some helpful methods.

INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME

Unlike some other frame materials, a steel frame does not degrade through normal use or simply through age. However, if a steel bike is ridden in the rain or is kept outdoors, rust on the inside surfaces of the frame tubing can be a problem. A way to check if your frame has been damaged by rust is to remove the bottom bracket and look at the bottom bracket shell and the tubes. Some rust is normal, but lots of rust or significant pitting can be a problem.

To prevent, or significantly reduce, internal rusting, people spray the inside of the tubes with a rust preventative. Two excellent products are "Frame Saver" by J. Peter Weigle and "Boeshield T-9" developed by Boeing. Frame Saver dries to a wax-like coating. It is available at most pro bike shops and over the web. Boeshield T-9 is a protectant and lubricant; it stays oily. Which to use? Peter Weigle is a custom frame maker (support a fellow bike guy). Boeing makes lots of great things that fly, but I believe bikes are not included . . .

People also use LPS 3, a heavy-duty rust inhibitor, which leaves a transparent waxy film. It is commonly available at hardware stores in spray cans.

A simple solution is to spray the insides with WD-40 penetrating oil. It dries to a thin, varnish-like coating that protects the metal. Not quite as good as the three products above, but much better than nothing at all. (BTW - because of this drying characteristic, WD-40 should not be used as a long-term lubricant.)

The rustproofing products above generally do not require removing the rust inside the frame tubes before applying. However, cleaning the inside of the bottom bracket and the headtube of loose rust is a good idea. To treat, remove the bottom bracket, headset and seat post. Spray into every opening in the frame, including the vent holes in the stays. Then, I like to tape over the openings and rotate the frame slowly a few times in various directions, to be sure that all internal surfaces are soaked. Remove the tape and let the excess run out. For the waxy coating types, and WD-40, it it best to allow a day or two drying time before reassembling.

CONVERTING FROM A QUILL STEM TO A MODERN THREADLESS STEM

Your vintage bike came with a quill stem. Can it be converted to a more modern threadless stem? NO, YES, and YES.

NO - The steerer tube on the original fork is almost certainly not long enough to use a full threadless system.

YES - A new fork which has a sufficiently long steerer tube is required. New forks typically are made for threadless stems, and have no threads on the steerer tube. One can employ a used fork from a (much) larger bike that has a sufficiently long steer tube. However, any threaded upper portion of the used fork must be cut off. In this conversion, a threadless headset will be required.

CAUTION - You should NOT attach the threadless stem to the threaded portion of a fork's steerer tube. The steerer tube may (will) break at the threads. This can result in a dramatic alteration of the rider's appearance.

YES - There is an adapter one can buy that has a quill at one end and a cylinder at the other. The quill is inserted into the steerer tube and tightened. The threadless stem is clamped onto the cylindrical end. These threadless stem adapters are available at most bike shops or on the Internet at places like performancebike.com or nashbar.com. Cost is about $20.

UPGRADING FROM A DOUBLE TO TRIPLE CRANK

This is a common upgrade for people living in hilly areas. It can be done by replacing a double crank with a triple crank or by attaching a triple chainring adapter, a triplizer, to the existing double crank. Information on tripleizers (triple chainring adapters) , has been provided here by Don Gillies.

What new/used parts do you need to replace a double crank with a triple?

• Triple right crank
• L onger bottom bracket axle or new bottom bracket
• W ide range rear derailleur (either a road triple or mountain bike triple)
• Longer chain
• STI or Ergo triple front shifter or a friction shifter capable of handling a triple (most can).
• A new front derailleur may be needed if: 1. the existing one doesn't have enough range to shift to the inner and outer rings, or 2. if the chain drags on the tail of the derailleur when in the small ring.

If you want to use a small inner ring, less than 30 teeth or so, (touring over the Rockies, stump pulling or just peace of mind) and a large ring of 50 teeth or more, a new front derailleur with a long tail will probably be required. Here are some suggestions for long-tailed front derailleurs (all no longer made): Huret Duo Par, Huret Pilot, SunTour Cyclone MK II, Simplex SJA 522, Simplex SJA 102, Shimano N-600, SunTour Mountech. A Campagnolo Super Record front will work with inner rings down to about 28 teeth.

Drew Saunders has detailed information on making a double to triple conversion. http://www.stanford.edu/~dru/tripleize.html . This page also describes the use of the " tripleizer " chain ring.

A Campagnolo Nuovo or Super Record double crank arm can be converted to a triple by drilling and tapping the crank arm to accept a 74mm BCD inner chainring. It requires some precision, so don't try it with a hand drill. Various shops can do it for you, including Elliott Bay Bicycles in Seattle.

An alternative to a new bottom bracket is to add a longer axle to the existing cup and cone bottom bracket. It may not be easy to determining the length needed. See Sheldon Brown's Bottom Bracket Size Database for a discussion of this problem: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html . Vintage Trek road bike bottom bracket shells are the English/Japanese standard 68mm wide. Used parts can be found at bicycle swap meets, used bike shops, or on eBay.com

If you are able to find a vintage used road triple crank, you may have a challenge finding a bottom bracket or crank axle of the right length. See Sheldon Brown's site, http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html , for guidance.

For a vintage Trek, a common setup is to find a used Sugino AT crankset (triple) and use a Shimano UN52 or UN72 or UN73 sealed bottom bracket with 127.5mm axle. This may require a 2mm spacer on the right bottom bracket end to provide sufficient spacing between the small ring and the chainstay. The spacer is typically available at your local bike shop.

One possible solution to the crank axle length problem is to take the crank and bike to your local bike shop. Ask them to sell you a new bottom bracket and install it for you. It is likely the will have only Shimano sealed bottom brackets to choose from. They may have to do some trial an error fitting, trying a few bottom brackets until they come up with one that works. Let them know that using a 1mm or 2mm spacer on the right side is OK.

ADDING MORE REAR COGS OR CONVERTING TO INDEX SHIFTING

Vintage Treks typically came with 5 or 6 or 7 rear cogs. More modern rear hubs have 8, 9 or 10 cogs. Can an old Trek be modified to have more cogs? Yes, but it does take some money and work.

First, you must decide on the number of rear gears you want. If you want more than 8 gears in the rear, it is likely you will need a new crank. A 9 speed chain will likely fall between the chainwheels. A 10 speed chain is more of a problem.

A modern Shimano road hub with 130mm spacing can take a 8, 9 or 10 speed cassette. With a commercially-available spacer, the hub can be used with a 7 speed cassette. This road hub requires 130mm rear dropout spacing (see the Spreading Rear Dropouts section below).

Campagnolo and Shimano components are generally not compatible with each other if index shifting (click shifting) is your goal. Campy or Shimano rear shifters will not work with the other's rear derailleurs or cassettes. (An exception is that 9 speed hubs/wheels can be used, imperfectly, with the other's equipment.) Cassettes of one manufacturer will not fit on the other's rear hubs. However, Campy and Shimano front shifters and derailleurs are usually compatible.

If you are going to buy new road components of a single manufacturer, the components will be compatible, if a common speed (8, 9 or 10) for the parts is specified. If you are going to use components of different years and models, there are some incompatibilities of which you should be aware. The book "Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance" by Leonard Zinn contains details of these problems.

What is needed to convert from a freewheel hub (5, 6, or 7 speeds) to a cassette hub system with index shifting?

• A rear hub capable of carrying a cassette with the targeted number of gears. (This usually entails buying a new wheel.)
• A cassette with the desired number of cogs, that matches the new rear hub.
• New shifters that are made for the number of cogs on the cassette.
• Cable stops to replace the downtube shifters (if you are using integrated brake lever/shifters [AKA brifters] or barcon [bar end] shifters).
• New rear derailleur designed for index shifting. A caution - a rear derailleur designed for a lower number of cogs (e.g. 7) will shift cogs with more gears, BUT - there may not be clearance between the derailleur and the spokes.
• Front derailleur designed for index shifting. If you want to friction shift, almost any front derailleur will work.
• New chain designed for the targeted number of cogs in the cassette. A modern 8 speed chain will also work with 5, 6, or 7 speed cogs. Nine cogs require 9 speed chains; ten cogs require 10 speed chains.

If your bike has brazed-on bosses for downtube shifters, to convert from 5 or 6 speed shifters you probably can find 7 (or rarely, 8) speed Shimano indexed downtube shifters that will fit.

Many conversions use Shimano bar end (also called barcon) indexed shifters. They were available in 7 and 8 speeds (find used or NOS on eBay.com). Nine-speed barcons are still available new. Bar-end shifters avoid the expense of STI integrated brake levers/shifters and allows you to keep your current brake levers. They require replacing your downtube shifters with downtube cable stops.

A caution - some downtube clamp-on shifter bosses made for friction shifting, that may be on your lower to mid-level Trek bike, are not compatible with standard shifters that fit on brazed-on bosses. Downtube cable stops also will not fit on these nonstandard types of clamp-on bosses. Types that do not work are various Shimano ones, including Shimano 600, and many by SunTour. Old Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record clamp-on bosses work fine as do Shimano clamp-on bosses made for index shifting.

A shifter alternative is to use a brifter for shifting the rear derailleur, but a downtube shifter for the front. A regular brake lever can be used for the front brake. This weight-saving setup was often used by Lance on his climbing bike. Also, with this method you can use your existing non-indexing front derailleur and non-indexing downtube shifter.

Here are three innovative shifter alternatives that can facilitate upgrading or modernizing an old bike:

The Kelly Takeoff is: "A simple, low cost alternative to integrated shifting. Lightweight chromoly. Mounts simply. Uses your conventional shifters & aero/non-aero brake levers. Great for retrofits." Paul Component Engineering Thumbies thumb shifter mounts: "These are designed to be used with indexed Shimano bar-end (aka barcon) shifters. Both 9-speed and 8-speed indexed shifters are readily available, and these shifters also still have a friction option for everything else." Bar-end Shifter Mounts from Rivendell Bicycle Works . "If you have regular downtube shifters that you want to convert to bar-enders, you need these. Most shifters work on them. Not all, but most." CONVERTING FROM 27" DIAMETER WHEELS TO 700C WHEELS Many older Treks came with 27" diameter wheels/tires. More modern bikes use 700C wheels/tires. A common question is: "Can I simply replace my 27" wheels with 700C"? The answer is yes, if your brake pads can be lowered in their slots by 4mm or more. This is usually the case. A practical test is to borrow a set of 700C wheels and try them. If the pads cannot be lowered that much, the brakes calipers will have to be replaced with others that allow this much reach. There are plenty of good 27" tires available at road bike shops or on the Internet. Touring, commuting, and training tire availability is not a problem; lots of choices. Why change from 27" to 700C? Three reasons: 1. You want to use racing clincher tires. The selection and availability of lightweight skinny tires in 700C is huge. 2. You want to use tubular tires (which are not available in 27" diameter). 3. If you think 27" wheels/tires are old fashioned or your riding buddies give you grief.

SPREADING REAR DROPOUTS

Early Vintage Treks, 1976 to 1982 (or so), have a rear dropout spacing of 120mm. After 82, spacing increased to 126mm to accommodate 6 or 7 speed hubs. With a bit of effort (or $) you can bend the stays on your steel Trek to increase the spacing to work with modern hubs. Modern spacing is 130mm for 8, 9 or 10 speed (road hubs). One can even spread to 135mm to employ the extra strength of mountain bike rear hubs. This is common for touring bikes.

CAUTION: Only steel frames can be safely spread. Aluminum and carbon frames should not be spread as they tend to break or be damaged, not bend. Additionally, frames of Reynolds 753 steel tubing (such as the Trek Model 170) should not be spread. The forces required are so high that damage to the frame (or the person bending) is likely.

Unfortunately, there is some (but minor) risk involved in permanently bending a frame; the brake bridge or chainstay bridge can pop, leaving you with junk or an expensive repair job. An experienced bike shop can do the spreading, but usually with the proviso that is is at your risk.

One do-it-yourself method employs an 8" or longer piece of allthread, two nuts, and two washers. Allthread is a continuously-threaded rod available in most hardware stores. Use either 5/16" or 3/8" diameter. The allthread is placed in the dropouts and the nuts are turned outward to spread the dropouts. The washers go between the nuts and the dropouts. Lubricate the allthread to make the process easier.

You must spread well beyond the target width to get the stays to bend. It is an iterative process. Screw the dropouts out a bit, measure the spread, unscrew the allthread, and measure the result. If no permanent spreading is accomplished, spread again, going a bit farther. Repeat this process until the target is reached. Use care, there is little distance between spreading with no permanent bending and spreading with permanent bending. If you do go beyond the target width, use the allthread in reverse to bend the dropouts back together. Columbus tubing is commonly thought to be the most difficult to bend, followed by Ishiwata and then Reynolds 531.

I wrap the bridges with many turns of string and/or strapping tape to help assure they do not pop. However, realize that the tape or string can damage the paint. One can use the string method described by Sheldon Brown (see below) to check alignment after the spreading. Most Trek frames do not have dimpled chainstays, so spreading using the allthread method tends to spread the stays uniformly, and does not significantly affect alignment.

A final test of alignment is whether you can ride the bike with no hands and have the bike go straight with both bike and rider vertical.

More frame spreading information is available at Sheldon Brown's site http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html . He suggests an alternative method for spreading, employing a wooden 2 x 4. However, the 2 x 4 method can misalign the entire rear triangle. If this happens, one can use the allthread in reverse to keep the dropouts from spreading apart while using the 2 x 4 to twist the rear triangle back into alignment.

After spreading the dropouts, a good frame shop will align the dropout faces to make them parallel. They will have a tool just for this purpose. For the do-it-yourselfer, this is not normally necessary. Non parallel dropouts are often cited as a cause of axle breakage, at least for freewheel-type hubs. However, with the wide bearing location of modern cassette hubs, the problem is not encountered.

A shortcut, useful for going from 126mm to 130mm, is not to permanently spread the frame. When you install the 130mm hub, just pull apart the dropouts to make it fit. Not very elegant, but works just fine.

IS IT COLUMBUS TUBING?

Is the tubing on your frame Columbus? If so, the steerer tube outer surface would probably have a little Columbus dove stamped on it. Also, if Columbus, the lower portion of inside of the steerer tube will typically have "ridges" or "rifling". (The inner surface of the top of the tube will be smooth to accept the stem.) If either is the case, the fork tubing is almost certainly Columbus. If the fork is original, the rest of the frame is almost certainly Columbus. However, if either the dove or the rifling are missing, it is not proof it is not Columbus, but it likely is not.

On vintage Treks, the Cinelli bottom bracket (with cast in "Cinelli") was more commonly used with Columbus tubing. However, it is not a reliable indicator as it also was used with Reynolds 531 tubing.

SOURCES OF GENERAL VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHT INFORMATION HOW TO CONTACT TREK TECHNICAL SUPPORT HOW TO FIND VINTAGE BIKE PARTS BASIC SPECS FOR VINTAGE TREK STEEL ROAD BIKES STEEL TUBING SPECS FOR EARLY TREKS HELICOMATIC HUBS PAINT TREK DECALS PAINT TOUCH UP INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY CONVERTING FROM A QUILL STEM TO A MODERN THREADLESS STEM ADDING MORE REAR COGS OR CONVERTING TO INDEX SHIFTING UPGRADING FROM A DOUBLE TO TRIPLE CRANK CONVERTING FROM 27" DIAMETER WHEELS TO 700C WHEELS SPREADING REAR DROPOUTS IS IT COLUMBUS TUBING?

Brochures | Price Lists and Values | Trek History | Trek Timeline | Serial Numbers Component Dates | Gallery | Contact | Buy/Sell Suggestions Refurbish/Upgrade | Bike Resources | Home

*Trek is a trademark of Trek Bicycle Corporation, Waterloo, WI

All copyrights in the TREK brochures, pricelists, owner's manuals and photographs displayed on this website are the sole property of Trek Bicycle Corporation, Waterloo, Wisconsin.

All materials in this site not copyrighted by others are Copyright © 2001-2014 Skip Echert Web Associates , All rights reserved.

Cycling made Simple.

Made By Cyclists

Discover the Unbeatable Features of Trek 7000

October 23, 2023

‍ Key Takeaways

• The Trek 7000 showcases an ideal blend of lightweight aluminum construction and robust durability.
• Its versatile design guarantees top-notch performance and comfort from urban roads to challenging trails.
• With a perfect union of cutting-edge tech and quality components, it stands as a commendable choice for cycling enthusiasts.

‍ In the cycling world, few names evoke as much respect as Trek. The Trek 7000 stands as one of them because of its amazing features.

The Trek 7000 has an aluminum frame, contributing to its lightweight nature, making it easy for riders of all levels to handle. The comfortable seat post, rear derailleur, and smooth pedals ensure a comfortable ride on trails and terrains. This is a versatile mountain bike with solid durability.

This guide dives into a comprehensive review of this iconic bicycle, analyzing its unmatched features, from the intricacies of its frame to its sophisticated drivetrain and braking system. Whether you're a seasoned cyclist or a newcomer, this deep dive thoroughly explains what makes the Trek 7000 a revered choice among biking enthusiasts.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

‍ Trek 7000 Bike Overview

The Trek 7000 is a versatile mountain bike for casual riders and those looking to hit the trails. This is a solid place to start looking for riders who love bikes with durability.

With its combination of quality components, comfortable ride, and stylish design, the Trek 7000 is an excellent choice for those who want to explore the great outdoors on two wheels.

It's known for its well-rounded features, such as durability and ease of use, and it comes with a medium price tag that doesn't break the bank. So, what should you know about the Trek 7000?

What We Loved

Frame and fork.

The aluminum frame of the Trek 7000 offers a lightweight yet durable foundation for this bike. It's an improvement over the earlier models, built with Alpha ZX aluminum. The high-tensile steel fork features curved blades, ensuring a smooth and comfortable ride on various terrains.

The Trek 7000 boasts a reliable drivetrain, including a Shimano M131 crank, a Shimano TX51 rear derailleur, and SRAM MRX 7-speed twist shifters. These components work together to provide smooth gear changes and excellent performance on various trails.

Wheels and Tires

This mountain bike comes with Bontrager 550 36-hole alloy rims and Bontrager H4 700x35c tires, which provide excellent traction and durability on different surfaces. The wheels and tires are perfect for those who want to tackle off-road adventures or simply enjoy casual rides around town.

Comfort and Size

The Trek 7000 is available in a range of sizes to accommodate riders of different heights. We particularly appreciated the comfortable saddle and easy-to-grip handlebars, making for an enjoyable ride that accommodates various riding styles.

What Could Be Improved

While the Trek 7000 features decent stock brakes, some riders may prefer to upgrade to higher-quality brakes for better stopping power and control. This is especially important for those who plan to tackle more advanced trails or ride in wet conditions.

Accessories

Although the Trek 7000 is a great bike on its own, we believe some riders may want to add accessories like a rear rack, fenders, or upgraded pedals to further personalize their bike and improve its utility.

Trek 7000 Distinctive Features

Comfortable design.

As casual riders, we can't help but appreciate the Trek 7000's comfortable design. The saddle is specifically designed to provide a comfy ride, making it ideal for those long days on the trails.

The bike also has the option to add fenders, a rear rack, and other accessories that make it even more user-friendly. We definitely enjoy riding this mountain bike.

Lightweight Frame

The Trek 7000 mountain bike features a light yet strong aluminum frame. This lightweight property greatly affects our ability to ride longer and tackle uphill climbs easily. The lightweight frame makes it much easier to handle and maneuver while riding.

Smooth Ride Quality

When it comes to ride quality, this bike truly shines. The Trek 7000 is equipped with reliable components such as the rear derailleur and brakes. Its tires are designed for various terrains, providing excellent grip and traction. The bike's fork ensures a smooth ride by absorbing shocks and vibrations.

Core Strengths of the Trek 7000 Bike

Superior durability.

One of the main reasons why we love the Trek 7000 mountain bike is its superior durability. The aluminum frame is made of high-quality materials that can withstand the test of time.

With proper care and maintenance, this bike can serve both casual riders and mountain biking enthusiasts for years.

Efficient Performance

Another core strength that makes the Trek 7000 an excellent choice is its efficient performance. This mountain bike is designed to handle various terrains, making it perfect for those who love to take on new trails.

With a wide gear range, riders can easily tackle hills and enjoy a comfortable ride even on uneven surfaces. The tires on this bike are also designed to provide excellent traction, ensuring a smooth and safe ride.

Advanced Technology

Trek is a brand known for utilizing advanced technology in their bikes, and the Trek 7000 is no exception. The smooth welds on the frame and the durable aluminum material make it a light yet robust mountain bike.

The components of the bike, such as the drivetrain and brakes, are also designed to provide top-notch performance during rides. The high-quality aluminum material used in the frame ensures a durable and lightweight bike that can handle challenging trails.

The smooth welds are not just for aesthetics. They also contribute to the frame's overall strength and durability. The Trek 7000's wide gear range allows you to easily ride up hills and tackle various terrains.

Trek 7000 Frame and Build Quality

The Trek 7000 prides itself on an advanced aluminum alloy frame, ensuring a lightweight yet robust structure. This material choice provides an optimal balance between agility and sturdiness.

The frame's geometry, tailored for both comfort and performance, caters to varied rider preferences. Noteworthy is the meticulous welding technique which offers seamless joints, enhancing the overall aesthetics and durability.

With anti-corrosive properties and rigorous testing, the Trek 7000 ensures longevity, even in the toughest of conditions, justifying its reputation in the biking community.

Trek 7000 Drivetrain and Braking System

The heart of the Trek 7000's performance lies in its precision-engineered drivetrain. Sporting top-tier components ensure seamless gear shifts with a wide range to cater to steep climbs and fast descents.

The bike boasts a modern derailleur system, delivering crisp transitions between its multiple gears. Complementing the drivetrain is its efficient braking system. Equipped with hydraulic disc brakes, the Trek 7000 offers rapid stopping power, ensuring safety even in wet conditions.

Compared to competitors, its responsive drivetrain and potent braking mechanism position it as a frontrunner in its class, providing an unmatched riding experience.

Suspension and Handling

Central to the Trek 7000's appeal is its state-of-the-art suspension system. Equipped with responsive front shocks, it promises a smooth ride even on rugged terrains. These suspensions are adept at absorbing shocks from bumps, providing cyclists with a jolt-free experience.

Its geometry is specifically designed to offer improved handling on diverse terrains - from city roads to mountain trails. Thanks to the bike's lower center of gravity, riders can expect unparalleled stability.

All these features collectively ensure that regardless of the path taken, the Trek 7000 guarantees a ride that's both comfortable and controlled.

How Durable Is The Trek 7000?

The Trek 7000 is a well-built mountain bike designed to withstand rough terrains and provide a comfortable ride for casual riders. The durability of this bike primarily lies in the materials used for its construction.

The frame of the Trek 7000 is made from high-quality aluminum, which provides the bike with a lightweight and sturdy structure. This material contributes to the bike's durability and enables it to handle tough trails without sustaining significant damage.

The components of the Trek 7000, such as the rear derailleur, brakes, and drivetrain, are also carefully selected to ensure a long-lasting performance. Quality tires are crucial for the durability of any mountain bike, and the Trek 7000 is no exception.

The tires used in this model are designed to provide excellent grip, even on challenging surfaces, ultimately enhancing the bike's longevity. The wheel design is super durable for off-roading too.

Is The Trek 7000 Worth Buying?

As mountain bike enthusiasts, we believe the Trek 7000 is worth considering, as it has built a solid reputation over the years. Designed for both casual riders and those new to the sport, this bike is known for offering a comfortable ride while still providing durability and performance.

One of the components contributing to the comfortable ride is the aluminum frame, which is both lighter and stronger than many alternatives. This makes the Trek 7000 easier to handle and more capable of tackling various trail conditions.

Additionally, the wide gear range on this mountain bike allows for easier hill climbs and a more enjoyable overall experience. We like the fact that the Trek 7000 is suitable for casual riders, but it's also designed to handle more adventurous trails.

Before making a decision, research your own and read reviews from fellow cyclists better to understand the Trek 7000's riders' experiences. We think it’s a good buy, and we're confident you'll enjoy hitting the trails with this reliable mountain bike.

10 Most Instagrammable Bike Spots

10 Stunning Underwater Bike Routes

10 Iconic Bridges to Cycle Over

10 Ways to Decorate Your Bike for the Holidays

This article may contain affiliate links where we earn a commission from qualifying purchases. The images and content on this page may be created by, or with the assistance of, artificial intelligence, and should be used for entertainment and informational purposes only.

About THE AUTHOR

Danny Lawson

Mountain biking is more than just a hobby for me - it's a way of life. I love the challenge and excitement that comes with it, and I'm always pushing myself to go faster and ride harder. Some people might think that mountain biking is dangerous, but I see it as the only way to live.

Trending Now

10 Sustainable Cycling Practices from Around the Globe

10 Rare Vintage Bicycles from the Early 1900s: A Visual Tour

The 10 Best Bike-to-Work Outfits for Every Season

The 10 Most Beautiful College Campuses to Bike Through

About PedalChef

PedalChef is a blog on all things cycling. We are a group of people who love bikes, and we want to share the joy that comes with the experience. You can read more about us here .

©2024 PedalChef. All rights reserved.

We can be reached at [email protected]

PedalChef.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. This site also participates in other affiliate programs, and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies.

Stranger In Moscow by Michael Jackson

[stems (multitrack recording of song)], " stranger in moscow " custom backing track preview, all our recordings are not the originals.

• Instruments (14)
• Download it!

"" Multitrack Files

Demo mix (with vocals).

Download a full-length demo mix of any song and ensure it fits your tasks, check the sound quality, compare it with the original song, and so on.

Multitrack Files

Free options (when registered).

• Full-length demo mix (with vocals) for any song
• Test your device - free multitracks

Multitrack info

• Acoustic Guitar
• Electric Guitar
• Electric Piano
• Synth Strings
• Synth Flute
• Sound Effect
• Sound Effect (Voice)
• Backing Vocals

Songs like this:

• "Let The Rain"
• "Love On The Rocks"
• "Love Song"
• "You Matter to Me"
• "Bottle It Up"
• "Cassiopeia"
• "Chasing The Sun"

• HSE Faculty of Mathematics
• Program Overview
• Syllabi of Courses
• How to apply for the Fall 2024 semester online courses
• Application Form
• Transcripts Upload Form
• Schedule of Classes
• Teachers and Staff
• Our Alumni List
• Alumni Testimonials
• Home Schools List

Differential Geometry

In this course we present the basic concepts of differential geometry (metric, curvature, connection, etc.). The main goal of our study is a deeper understanding of the geometrical meaning of all notions and theorems.

Prerequisites: Multivariable Calculus; Linear Algebra; Ordinary Differential Equations.

Curriculum:

www.springer.com The European Mathematical Society

• StatProb Collection
• Recent changes
• Current events
• Random page
• Project talk
• Request account
• What links here
• Related changes
• Special pages
• Printable version
• Permanent link
• Page information
• View source

One of the basic concepts in geometry; it is usually indirectly defined in terms of the geometrical axioms. A plane may be regarded as a combination of two disjoint sets: A set of points and a set of straight lines, with a symmetric incidence relation between point and line. In accordance with the requirements satisfied by the incidence relation, which are described by certain axioms, one may distinguish projective, affine, hyperbolic, elliptic, and other planes.

Planes may be classified in terms of collineation groups (see, for example, [7] , Chapt. 3, where the Lenz–Barlotti classification is given for projective and affine planes) or from the realization in the plane of various configurations (see, for example, Desargues geometry ; Pascal geometry ).

A plane is called metrical if the incidence relation is accompanied by a definition of distance between any pair of points. For example, in the Hilbert system of axioms of Euclidean geometry, distance is introduced on the basis of congruence and continuity axioms, and the plane in that case is called continuous [1] . A plane consisting of a finite number of points, and thus of straight lines, is called finite [7] .

One way for studying a plane is to introduce coordinates and a ternary operation , which is then examined [7] , [8] .

In the analytic geometry of $E^3$, a plane is a concept derived from the concepts of a "vector" and a "point" . By the plane passing through a point $A\in E^3$ and through vectors $\mathbf{m}$ and $\mathbf{n}$ one understands the set of points $M$ such that

In a rectangular coordinate system $(x,y,z)$ in $E^3$, a plane is specified by a linear equation

The coefficients $A, B, C$ of which define the coordinates of the normal vector for this plane. In an $m$-dimensional space, planes of dimension $n$ are described by systems of linear equations [5] .

The mutual disposition of planes in various $m$-dimensional spaces is determined by the corresponding incidence axioms, as is the incidence property for planes and straight lines.

For instance, for a projective plane the axioms are:

i) for each two lines there is a unique point incident with both of them;

ii) for each two points there is a unique line passing through them;

iii) there are four points no three of which are collinear.

This last axiom rules out special cases like the geometry of three lines intersecting in these points.

An affine plane (cf. also Affine geometry ) is a point-line incidence structure such that:

iv) for every point $ p $ and line $ L $ not incident with $ p $ there exists a unique line through $ p $ with no point in common with $ L $;

v) there are three non-collinear points;

vi) $ = $ ii).

For each affine plane there is an associated projective plane , obtained by introducing one extra ideal point for each class of parallel (i.e. non-intersecting) lines and one extra line $ W $ consisting of the ideal points. Conversely, a projective plane $ P $ with one (distinguished) line $ W $ excluded is an affine plane $ A = P ^{W} = P \setminus W $.

A collineation of an affine or projective plane is a permutation (cf. Permutation of a set ) of its points which takes lines into lines. A dilatation of the affine plane $ A $ is a collineation of the associated projective plane $ P $ which is the identity on the ideal line $ W = P \setminus A $. The affine plane $ A $ is a translation plane if all its dilations are transitive (i.e. for all $ p,\ q \in A $ there is a dilatation taking $ p $ to $ q $).

• This page was last edited on 28 January 2020, at 19:20.
• Privacy policy
• About Encyclopedia of Mathematics
• Disclaimers
• Impressum-Legal