michael collins tour dublin

A step-by-step guided tour of Micheal Collins’ Dublin

Take a walk around ireland’s capital through michael collins' old stomping grounds with our expert..

Tracing the steps of the Easter Rising fighter and famed revolutionary around his haunts that remain in Dublin city today.

Even 101 years after his death Michael Collins remains a pivotal part of Dublin City life. You’ll see photographs and paintings of him in shops and pubs around the city and there are two busts of him, at the Hugh Lane Gallery and in Merrion Square Park. But who exactly was this national icon, Michael Collins?

He was the most wanted man in Ireland – the British put a £5,000 bounty (sometimes embellished to £10,000) on his head – yet Collins walked and cycled around Dublin with a devil-may-care attitude that inspired his small army. (His fiancée, Kitty Kiernan , referred to him in letters as her “elusive Pimpernel.”)

He fought in the General Post Office at Easter 1916 , spent eight months in prison, then returned to Dublin on New Year’s 1917. For the next five years, he ran a revolution that has become a textbook for nationalist insurgents around the globe.

He was Ireland’s first Minister for Finance (floating the National Loan that helped birth the inchoate Irish nation) and gained notoriety as the Director of Intelligence of the Irish Republican Army. As DOI he formed his infamous assassination team – "The Squad" or “The Twelve Apostles” – who systematically executed the British Secret Service in Dublin on “Bloody Sunday,” November 21, 1920. Just over a year later, he negotiated the Treaty which freed most of Ireland from seven hundred years of British rule.

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He was killed in an ambush at Béal na mBláth , in his native County Cork, on August 22, 1922. He was only 31 years of age. Fittingly, his body was returned to his beloved Dublin and he is buried in Glasnevin Cemetery.

Although Michael Collins has been dead for over a century, many of his Dublin haunts – amazingly–remain intact. And luckily for the exhausted tourist, a walking tour of Collins’ Dublin will take only an hour because many of his buildings and pubs are located smack in the City Center.

Trinity Street and #3 St. Andrew Street

Let’s begin the tour at the front gate of Trinity College. Cross Grafton Street and walk up College Green to Trinity Street. Turn left and advance to St. Andrew Street.

A statue of the famous Molly Malone, located at the crossroads of Andrew Street and Trinity Street.

Your first impression of this fist of tiny intersecting streets is that “this would be the perfect spot for an ambush” – and you would be right. This area is the location of one of Collins’ main finance offices at #3 Andrew Street – right next to the Trocadero Restaurant – but, as your instincts may have warned you, it is also the location of one of the great ambushes gone awry. It was here that Collins and the Squad waited in 1919 for the arrival of Lord French, the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, as he made his way from Trinity College , heading home to the Viceregal Lodge in the Phoenix Park. Their mission was an assassination . French did not show and Collins dispersed the Squad, wary that his hot tip may have been a British set up.

The Old Stand

Corner of St. Andrew & Wicklow Streets

The Old Stand, on the corner of St. Andrew and Wicklow Streets.

Old Stand Pub, corner of St. Andrew & Wicklow Streets: After going over the books for the National Loan across the street Collins would often meet up with his men here. According to the Old Stand’s website, “From time to time, Collins held informal meetings of the outlawed I.R.B. (Irish Republican Brotherhood) in the premises as true to Collins’ tradition, he was less conspicuous while in the midst of the public.”

Wicklow Hotel & Weir’s Jewelers

Formerly the Wicklow Hotel, now a bank.

If you turn left and continue down Wicklow Street you will come to the former location of the Wicklow Hotel at #4 Wicklow Street (now a bank). This was a regular hangout for Collins and his Squad. However, the porter, one Willie Dolan, was a British informer and Collins had the Squad take him out. Mrs. Dolan, not knowing that Collins was behind her husband’s death, asked Collins for a pension. Collins granted her request. On the corner of Grafton Street is Weir & Sons, jewelers, where Collins brought the engagement gift, a watch, for his fiancée, Kitty Kiernan, in 1921.

#10 Exchequer Street & The Central Hotel

The Central Hotel, currently being developed.

 If you backtrack on Wicklow Street it becomes Exchequer Street. #10, to the left of Dunnes Stores, was Collins’ first office in Dublin in 1917. Sadly this hotel is currently being done up but it's hoped it'll return in a modernized but still historic landmark.

It was here that he ran the National Aid and Volunteers Dependents Fund, a charity but also a front for his rebel activities. His office was on the top floor. Across the street is the Central Hotel – now home to one of the great Dublin drinking venues, the fabulous Library Bar – which Collins often used to accommodate visiting I.R.A. men.

The Stag’s Head

The Stag’s Head.

 Do an about-face at #10 and you’ll be staring down Dame Court. At the end of it, on the right-hand side, is the Stag’s Head, one of the most beautiful Victorian pubs in Dublin. By day it is quiet and a great place to have lunch. By night it is a mad house. Any time of day or night it is a great pub and was a favorite of the Big Fellow.

After a hard day at #10 he would come here and enjoy a whiskey from “Mick’s Barrel,” which they kept especially for him. The Stag’s Head is within one block of Dublin Castle, the then center of British power in Ireland, and Collins’ used it to meet his agents, keenly aware that British touts might also be on the premises. Many movies have been filmed here, including "Educating Rita," "The Treaty" and one of James Cagney’s last films – and maybe the best film ever made about the Irish revolution – "Shake Hands With the Devil."

Collins’ Alley & #3 Crow Street

Crow Street, Temple Bar.

 Right outside the Stag’s Head is a short, yet sinister, tunnel that leads to Dame Street, which I have nicknamed “Collins’ Alley.” If you look directly across the thoroughfare you’ll see Crow Street. At #3 Collins kept his intelligence office, disguised as John F. Fowler, printer and binder. If was through this office – which he seldom visited because of security issues – that Collins’ agents plotted the downfall of the British Secret Service.

#32 Bachelors Walk, the Oval Bar & “The Dump”

The Oval Bar, on Abbey Street.

Let’s make our way to the River Liffey and cross the Ha’penny Bridge. Walk towards O’Connell Street and you’ll come to #32 Bachelors Walk. Collins kept an office here throughout the revolution and, like the Crow Street office, it was never discovered by the British. It is on the corner of Bachelors Way, an alley that leads to Middle Abbey Street. If you look down this alley you’ll see the Oval Bar. The Oval was used by Collins and his Squad perhaps because of its proximity to “The Dump,” a “waiting” room for the Squad on the top floor of the adjacent Eason bookshop building on the corner of Abbey and O’Connell Streets.

General Post Office (GPO) and #16 Moore Street

At O’Connell Street, turn left and you’ll see the portico of the General Post Office. The Easter Rising started here on Monday, April 24, 1916. Collins, then a staff captain, fought in the building alongside the leaders, who included Pádraig Pearse and James Connolly.

The GPO on O'Connell Street.

By the end of the week, Collins and the other rebels were forced to evacuate the burning GPO and take refuge at #16 Moore Street, off Henry Street. A plaque between the second-floor windows marks the spot. Currently, #16 is being turned into a museum.

Vaughan’s Hotel, #29 Parnell Square

Proceed along colorful Moore Street – its food and fish mongers are straight out of Joyce and O’Casey – to Parnell Street and turn right.

A short walk will take you to the Rotunda Hospital, the oldest maternity hospital in Europe, and Parnell Square, a hotbed of Fenian revolutionary fervor during the War of Independence. Proceed along Parnell Square West until you come to #29. In Collins’ time, this was Vaughan’s Hotel – he called it “Joint Number One” – probably the most important address associated with Collins during this period. He was in and out of the place several times a day even though British “touts” were sniffing about looking for him.

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Mountjoy Street

 Continue up Parnell Square and continue past the appropriately named Black Church (the Dublin legend swears that if you run around this foreboding structure three times at midnight the devil himself will appear!). At the corner to the left is the cul-de-sac of Mountjoy Street, almost untouched since the early twentieth century. Collins lived at #44, the Munster Hotel in 1917. (Seán MacDiarmada, a signer of the Proclamation, also spent his last night here prior to the Rising.) As times got hotter Collins was forced to abandon the Munster Hotel as a place of lodging, but he continued to have his laundry done there. Right across the street from #44, one of his girlfriend/agents, Dilly Dicker, lived at #30 and he would park his bike in the lane to the side of the building. Another girlfriend, Susan Killeen, lived at #19.

Hugh Lane Gallery & the Garden of Remembrance

Garden of Remembrance, on Parnell Square.

As we end our tour, we retrace out steps back to Parnell Square and on the north side you’ll find the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art. Lane, a nephew of Lady Gregory, drowned when the Lusitania was torpedoed. He bequeathed many works of art to the city of Dublin in his will. Inside the front door is a marble bust of Michael Collins by Cork sculptor Seamus Murphy. Also at the Hugh Lane are many paintings by Sir John Lavery, a friend of Collins. It is rumored that Sir John’s wife, Lady Hazel Lavery, was Collins’ secret lover.

The Dublin Writers Museum is also on this block. Across the street is the Garden of Remembrance, directly behind the Rotunda Hospital. In 1916 all the rebels from the GPO, including Collins, were bivouacked here for the night after their surrender. Indignities against two of the leaders, Tom Clarke and Seán MacDiarmada, by a Captain Lea Percival Wilson of the British Army, would bring retribution years later when Wilson was gunned down in Gorey, County Wexford by the Squad on Collins' orders.

It was here that Queen Elizabeth II, on her state visit to Ireland in 2011, laid a wreath in memory of those who died in the fight for Irish freedom.

Queen Elizabeth II bowing during a ceremony at the Garden of Remembrance.

As the Queen stood at attention as the Irish national anthem was played, many Dubliners observed that they wouldn’t be surprised if the ghost of Michael Collins, just across the way at Vaughan’s Hotel, was keeping a close eye on the proceedings – and that he would, finally, approve.

* Dermot McEvoy is the author of "The 13th Apostle: A Novel of a Dublin Family, Michael Collins, and the Irish Uprising and Irish Miscellany" (Skyhorse Publishing). He may be reached at [email protected]. Follow him at www.dermotmcevoy.com . Follow "The 13th Apostle" on Facebook here .

** Originally published in 2016, updated in June 2023.

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Michael Collins Walking Tour

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Michael Collins Walking Tour - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

HISTORY MUSEUM & INTERPRETIVE CENTRE

Learn about michael collins & the history of irish independence, war of independence west cork trail, a guide to the key sites of the war of independence in west cork, michael collins house, clonakilty, a museum dedicated to the irish patriot and revolutionary hero, see our media section, videos, podcasts, articles & research, suitable for all the family, family friendly atmosphere, interactive displays & audio visuals.

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MICHAEL COLLINS HOUSE

Museum dedicated to irish patriot and revolutionary hero.

Michael Collins House, Clonakilty is a museum dedicated to Irish patriot and revolutionary hero, Michael Collins. Visit to learn about the “Big Fella” himself, his life story entwined with the history of the fight for Irish independence. The museum is presented in an accessible manner through guided tours, interactive displays, audio visuals, artefacts and more, bringing the history to life for all the family. For those looking to delve into the history further information boards, history talks and our highly qualified tour guides will more than happily engage in debate and answer any questions you may have.

OUR LOCATION

Directions to emmet square.

Directions from Clonakilty, Main Street (Pearse St.)- Travel west to the end of Pearse Street, Turn left at end of Pearse St at Bank of Ireland onto Bridge St. , continue straight, pass the statue of Michael Collins and directly across Emmet Sq to Michael Collins House: No. 7, Emmet Sq, Clonakilty.

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Media archive, our media section includes a documentary about the life of michael collins, season 1 of the michael collins house podcast as well as articles & research..

Including a 16 minute doc. about the life of Michael Collins

Season 1 of the michael collins house podcast is available to stream, articles & research, archive of research papers.

GUIDED TOURS

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Dramatic Presentation and Impressive Exhibition

Our Museum is famous for it’s live dramatised illustrated presentations, during which photographs and maps are used to tell the story of Michael Collins in a traditional Irish storytelling style. The Slide  Show/Talks bring visitors into the world of Michael Collins from his birth in 1890 to his death at Béal na Blá in 1922. The presentations are delivered three times daily during July and August, with less daily shows in June and September.

The Museum houses one of the most extensive collections of artefacts in Ireland associated with the 1916 Rebellion, Irish War Of Independence and Irish Civil War, including six personal items connected to Michael Collins. A guided tour of the collection and the outdoor exhibits is included in the presentation.

As well as the Michael Collins exhibition, the Centre has smaller displays on two other historically significant figures with local connections: Henry Ford and former US President, John F. Kennedy. More Irish fought and died in the American Civil War, than in the Irish Civil War. You could argue that the American Civil War was part of the lead up to the Irish revolutionary period. Michael Collins Centre also has a American Civil War collection.

The Museum is located on a beautiful hill top site on the Crowley family farm, overlooking the magnificent Argideen River Valley with breathtaking views of the Dunmanway hills and the Kerry mountains. Three Exhibits are located on the grounds of the Centre.

The final moments of the life of Michael Collins are explored in a 100m, life-size re-creation of the Béal na Blá ambush site, where Michael Collins died, with replicas of the vehicles in the Collins convoy: The Rolls-Royce Whippet armoured car – called Sliabh na mBan, the Crossley Tender (troop lorry) and the Leyland Eight touring car.

In the life size recreation of a firing squad execution yard the story behind 105 executions which occurred in the aftermath of the 1916 rising, during the War of Independence and Civil War in Ireland is explored. Those executions led to huge change and bitterness at that time. The consequences of those executions and the procedure of a firing squad execution is explored during the presentation.

The 1798 memorial is a life-size replica of the ruins of an early Medieval church site with the ruins of a church, a watch house, a holy well, a grotto and over one-hundred uninscribed grave-markers. The Battle of the Big Cross took place on 19 June 1798, 4km north west of the Michael Collins Centre and the memorial was built using stone from the homestead of Tadhg an Asna the leader of the local rebels who was killed in the battle.

What Our Visitors Think

I met Tim Crowley who owns and runs the centre a few years back when he took me on a 4 hour personal driving tour of all things relevant to Michael Collins. It was amazing. I didn't visit his centre at this time but I vowed to come back someday to do it. I'm truly glad I did. I already knew of Tim's incredible knowledge and passion for Michael Collins but his collection of artefacts and memorabilia in his centre are remarkable. His presentation of the story of Michael Collins through his slide show is second to none. Tim truly is a wealth of information. The replica vehicles of Collins convoy when he was ambushed on display are world class. If you are in anyway interested in Michael Collins or history in general you must visit this Centre. You will be enthralled, educated and enlightened like never before by a true historian, a gentleman and a lover of Michael Collins, Clonakilty, Cork and Ireland.

Spent 3 hours here with my 7 and 9 year old boys.

The presenter, Tim was more of a ‘storyteller' than a ‘guide'. My 2 boys were captivated! They loved the displays of artefacts...Michael Collins' briefcase and travel mirror, replica old guns and the life-sized replica vehicles of Michael Collins convoy.

I am a history enthusiast delighted to visit a site with a real sense and feeling for history. But even if you are just looking for something to do on your covid enforced staycation you will leave here bitten by the history bug!!

The pure authenticity and knowledge from the organisers of this special attraction is staggering. This is a family run museum, where the family have actual links to Michael Collins and live in the area where so many of the stories have originated from. The replica of the Béal Na Blath scene is a must see and the presentation on Irish history during Michael Collins life is honed to perfection. Highly recommended.

The myth of Michael Collins could never live up to the reality of the man. I've studied Michael Collins for many years, and in this beautiful, quaint, idealistic spot, just southwest of Timoleague I gained some incredible insights into the Man, not the myth. The collection of replicas and actual memorabilia relating to Michael is exceptional. The setting beyond any words at my disposal in the heart of beautiful West Cork. Still, my highest praise are reserved for Tim and Delores. The knowledge and understanding of who Michael was, and the knowledge of the events of his life and times and the impact he had on our history is phenomal. Tim delivered the most riveting and detail laden account of Michael, and his life, a life lived only for Ireland. There are a number of options for private tours to Bèal Na Blàth, Sam's Cross and Woodfield available also. I will definitely make it my business to avail of these options. Tim had a remark which stood true for me today, "the more you learn about history, the more you realise you didn't know". I had my kids with me, 6yrs old, and 8yrs old. They loved the experience. There is nothing better than young minds experiencing facts, and learning our history, and who we are, and this experience provides that for them. An exceptional amenity within the beauty of the scenic West Cork landscape.

Tim's communication of the story of Michael Collins: Very clear, interesting and knowledgeable backed up by his research. As we were 3 sisters with relatives directly involved in the civil war, Tim's account of Michael Collin's travels and encounters on his last day were particularly moving.

Fantastic tourist attraction, very well thought out and very well delivered. Hosts were very welcoming. Thoroughly enjoyed this visit and great value for money. We were there an hour and forty-five minutes. My youngest son is Irish History Obsessed and described it as “the best day ever”.

Lovely place to sit and take in stunning views.

This was the highlight of our visit to Cork.I had a reasonable general knowledge of Michael Collins but Tim Crowley’s talk gave us a much deeper insight into the man and his family and fellow combatants.I found Tim to be very fair in his assessment of the Civil War section of the talk given, which can’t have been easy. Basically it’s an unmissable visit for anyone trying to understand the intricacies of politics and warfare and the compromises required

This was a place I really was looking forward to visiting and I wasn't disappointed. I know quite a bit about Michael Collins and Irish history but Tim really is a font of knowledge!! The combination of artefacts, his comprehensive knowledge and how he presented the information added to the experience. Most of the few hours was inside so the downpour of rain didn't affect our visit.

Whether you know much or very little, this is really a worthwhile visit!

I can't believe that the Michael Collins Centre is in it's 20th year and I only discovered it recently. If I had known about it I would have come years ago. If you have an interest in Michael Collins then it's an absolute must. If you have an interest in Irish history then it's an absolute must. But even if you don't it's still brilliant. There's also bits on the Spanish Civil War and the American Civil War, Henry Ford and the Kennedys too.

But Tim Crowley's presentation on Michael Collins is absolutely brilliant. His knowledge and research is fantastic. How he gets so much information in but still keeps it so interesting is amazing. It's also in a beautiful setting and the replicas of the vehicles involved in Collins' ambush are fantastic - I was not expecting that after a brilliant presentation.

Dolores was brilliant to deal with and a lovely host also.

So worth a visit if and when you're in beautiful West Cork.

If you are interested in the irish independance war, you HAVE to go there ! Timothy gave the greatest history presentation I ever watched. He really has the knowledge of a historian on Michael Collins. Absolutely incredible. There probably won't be any question you will ask he won't have the answer to. And for the foreigners, he speaks a very understandable english. I recommend 2000 % !!!!!!!

I wish I could give more stars! This was mind blowing and captivating! And I really hope they charge more for this unforgettable experience! You don't meet often a historian that is so passionate about his job and there are reasons behind it which you will need to find out for yourself 😊 1000000000000% recommend it!!

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Michael Collins Walking Tour

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MICHAEL COLLINS WALKING TOUR: All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with Photos)

Michael Collins Walking Tour

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MICHAEL COLLINS WALKING TOUR (Dublin) - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go