trek 2000 alpha sl

Is The Trek 2000 A Good Road Bike?

Table of Contents

Trek road bikes have always been a popular brand in road bike racing. Following the first generation of the Trek 2000 road bike in 1999, there were different versions of the Trek 2000 in 2000, 2001, 2002, and 2003.

The Trek 2000, which was entirely hand-built, also competed in a few races at the time. This is a comprehensive review of the Trek 2000 road bike. Is the star model still a good road bike after 15 years?

I recently purchased a used Trek road bike.After a period of riding，We gained some practical experience.

Below we’ll take a look at the Trek 2000’s road performance, as well as its track performance, key components and specs, and its other versions. Finally, we also compare some of the road bikes for sale today to the Trek 2000.

If you’re on a budget, you can check out our Top 9 Best Road Bikes Under 500 [Review] to choose the best road bike.

Road Performance

You’d be correct if you expected more from this “old” road bike. Standard 700C tires, slim 25C tires for fast tarmac speeds. The carbon fiber fork is extremely strong and unbreakable.

Although the road edge section does not provide much shock absorption, it has a very high power transmission ratio when accelerating the ride. On the uphill section of the road, the 3X9 drivetrain makes the rider feel very comfortable.

The steep head tube angle forces the rider out of their comfort zone on downhills and necessitates a different acceleration position to gain a better grip on balance. It takes some getting used to.

It’s a little uncomfortable, but the Trek 2000 is still a good choice when the corner isn’t violent, and it’s still a good choice if you live in the neighborhood.

Track Performance

Even with an expensive race-specific road bike, if it’s just a flat road ride. When compared to the Trek 2000, the difference is only noticeable on longer rides.

On hill rides, the steep head tube angle of the Trek 2000 allows the rider to climb faster. Going downhill increases traction by compressing the body and lowering the center of gravity.

Especially the park’s plastic roads, which are one of my favorite places to ride. The Trek 2000 has a good power transfer ratio and 27 different speeds, allowing the rider to get used to it over a longer period of time, making it a mid-range road bike rather than a pure entry-level road bike.

The track performance is 4.5 out of 5 and is comparable to modern road bikes in the same price range.

Trek 2000 main components and specifications

Aluminum frame.

One of the features that distinguish the Trek 2000 bike as an entry-level race road bike is the use of Alpha SL aluminum.

The cost of construction is slightly higher than that of a steel frame, but it is lighter in weight. It maintains the frame’s rigidity.

The body is blue/silver. Standard Trek insignia. The head tube angle is aggressive.

The Trek 2000 frame design is a very classic race-type frame that can be used for not only road racing but also some triathlons.

The Trek 2000 has a Bontrager Race full carbon fork, which contributes significantly to the Trek 2000’s weight savings.

It is well known that the cheaper the bike, the heavier it is, and the Trek 2000 frame design is still very traditional compared to modern road bikes, with no quick-release hubs, a stiff thru-axle, and a stable front wheel for fast travel on flat roads during fast rides.

3X9 drivetrain

The Trek 2000’s 3X9 flywheel has a much higher gear count for flat road riding than the current 2X flywheel. And having more gears means having more gearing options.

This is fantastic for flat tracks. However, if you’re a beginner, having more gears means having a faster shift reaction time. And the three chainrings in the front section aren’t ideal for time trials.

Of course, for casual riding, the 3X9 drivetrain is a godsend, and who can resist a road bike with more gears?

700Cx25C Tires

The 700 x 25c Bontrager Select is a great tool for accelerated riding despite its lack of tread.

When riding on the road, it can accelerate the ride and accommodate up to 28C rims, which are one of the accessories that can be replaced if you want a more comfortable ride.

There is no attempt to achieve extreme lightness in tire weight, and some riders may prefer the thinner 23C tires, but that will be a great test of your riding skills.

It is extremely easy to fall down when going through corners quickly without enough sidewall, especially when going through corners quickly.

However, the thin tires of the 23C appeal to me for the challenge of faster riding speeds.

Other versions of Trek 2000

Trek 2000 wsd.

The Trek 2000 WSD is the perfect road bike for women riders. The 2000 version of the 2000 WSD still had a 3X8 drivetrain.

The 2000 version of the WSD had a 3X8 drivetrain, but the 2001 and later Trek 2000 WSDs all had a 3X9 drivetrain.

The paint colors were light blue and dark blue. The aluminum micro-adjusted seat post is also different from the Trek 2000.

2006 Trek 2000

The number of rear gears has been increased by 10 speeds, but the other changes are not too big.

Trek 2000 Specs

Trek 2000: what do we like.

• Quality Shimano accessories that will support the bike for years of use
• Durable, maintenance-free aluminum frame
• Carbon brazed dimensional fork
• Standard 700C tires for faster riding
• Multiple frame sizes to fit riders of all heights

What we don’t like?

• Hard saddle
• Pedals need to be upgraded to ride faster

Related Questions

• How much does the Trek 2000 weigh?

19.3 lbs, which is already relatively light for a road bike with an aluminum frame.

• How much does the Trek 2000 cost?

The price of the Trek 2000 varies from version to version. However, the official guide price is $1090-$1500.

• What is the price of a used Trek 2000 bike?

If you are willing to trade in your old bike for a new one, then the price is expected to be around $120.

But at used bike length, it is expected to double. 240 USD is the selling price. This is just the data before release and can be used as a reference.

Comparison Table

Competition, trek domane al 2 vs 2000.

In terms of price, aluminum frame, front, and rear rim brakes, light transmission angle, and carbon fork, the Trek Domane AL 2 is similar to the Trek 2000.

However, there is still a speed disparity. The Trek Domane AL 2 has a 2X8 drivetrain, which is not suitable for a competitive bike, and the compact body design is slightly narrower than the Trek 2000.

As a result, the Trek Domane AL 2 is well-suited to the needs of short commuter riders, which explains why they were able to reserve rack holes at the rear end of the frame, as well as front and rear mudguard mounts.

If you’re thinking about the possibility of racing, then consider the Trek Domane AL 4 Disc, which is more suitable than the Trek Domane AL 2.

But if you’re more of a fast commuter, the Trek Domane AL 2 is available at a very affordable price.

Trek Domane AL 4 Disc vs Trek 2000

Although the Trek Domane AL 4 Disc road bike is a little more expensive to purchase, the Trek Domane AL 4 Disc is better for the rider in terms of the quality of its accessories, and a more sensible way of braking when it comes to racing.

The Trek Domane AL 4 Disc is still made of aluminum, but the overall frame weighs about 4 pounds more than the Trek 2000, making it suitable for endurance races and shorter distances.

The 2X10 drivetrain will give riders a wide enough shift range, and while there is a large flywheel gap compared to the Trek 2000, I don’t believe the 2X10 gears are insufficient. I don’t believe the gears on the 2X10 are sufficient.

Front and rear forcible hydraulic disc brakes allow for faster descents followed by quick braking, allowing you to gain valuable time on downhill trails and corners.

If you enjoy gravel sections and trail riding, you’ll be pleased with the Trek Domane AL 4 Disc’s configuration.

RIDLEY Fenix Road Bike vs Trek 2000

The RIDLEY Fenix Road Bike is the strongest competitor to the Trek 2000 in the list.

A competitive road bike that combines sports aesthetics and cycling, the Gravel Road Bike will see the light of day.

If you own the RIDLEY Fenix you get, carbon fiber frame, carbon fiber fork, 2X11 drivetrain, hydraulic disc brakes, and Vittoria Rubino Pro Tires to keep you rolling on gravel roads.

The RIDLEY Fenix Road Bike has a lighter weight than 2000: around 17 pounds, a clean and tidy look, a steep fork, and the climbing ability to crush the Trek 2000. These are what make the RIDLEY Fenix Road Bike a worthy all-around carbon racing and training bike.

The price point is medium in competitive bikes, not extremely light, but all the performance is up to about 95% of a pro-level road bike, making it a very cost-effective competitive bike.

Schwinn Phocus 1600 vs Trek 2000

The Schwinn Phocus 1600, which is half the price of the Trek 2000, does not appear to satisfy competitive riders.

The Schwinn Phocus 1600 is an aluminum frame with a carbon fiber fork, but it’s a great alternative to the Trek 2000 for first-time riders looking for a more affordable road bike.

This looks a lot like the Trek 2000. The gearing, however, has been compromised, with a 2X8 drivetrain and no it wide-range gearing.

As a result, the Schwinn Phocus 1600 is only available to riders who commute to ride or go out for exercise.

Final Verdict

With its lightweight, durable aluminum frame and ultra-wide gear range, the Trek 2000 is still a mid-range race road bike that has a lot to offer compared to modern new road bikes.

But if you’re not looking for a used road bike, consider the options in our comparison table.

The Trek 2000, with a stable ride and a configuration that allows for fast and accelerated riding, ultimately we think it’s a good road bike and worth buying.

Learn more:

Is The Trek 1000 A Good Road Bike? [Trek 1000 Review]

Is The Trek 1200 A Good Road Bike? [Review]

Is The Trek 1.2 A Good Road Bike? [Review]

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Open Daily | Fremont, Seattle, WA

Cycle & Coffee

Trek Alpha Series 2000 Aluminum Road bike, black, silver & red, 52cm/Small

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Small Alpha Series Aluminum Trek road bike, handmade in USA, with red accents throughout. Shimano Tiara groupset (crank, hubs, derailleurs, integrated shifters/levers). Shimano Sora caliper rim brakes. Black Bontrager seat and bottle cage. Cushioned black and red bar tape. Black Salsa stem, and icon drop bars. 3x9 speed drivetrain. Red Aluminum RDR rims and stainless steel spokes. CST Czar 650x23c road tires. 

The bike needs a replacement rear shifter, so expect a slight delay when booking a test ride on this one - we'll update the description once this has been replaced.

Comes with a 30 day guarantee on mechanical issues. Contact us if you'd like to schedule a test ride at our Fremont, Seattle shop along the Burke Gilman trail, or we ship anywhere in the US. Shipped bikes come with some basic assembly required - we recommend you get it assembled by a professional mechanic and you can even have it shipped directly to your local bike shop for your convenience. Receipt of assembly by a mechanic is required for mechanical guarantee claims on shipped bikes.

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Need advice on a Trek 2000 SL price. 1st road bike.

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I'm going to look at a Trek 2000SL today and I need some advice. Seller tells me that the bike is excellent condition except for the tires being flat. It's been setting in the garage for a while. What do i need to check out when I go to see the bike. I'm taking my air pump so I can ride the bike and make sure all the components are in good working order. Seller wants $350.00 for the bike.  

If I'm not mistaken, that model was offered between 2000 and 2003, so you're looking at a 10-13 year old bike. TrekBikes.com Bike Archive | 2003 2000 ... and before I forget to mention it, make sure your pump works on presta valves - or bring along an adapter. Personally, no matter the condition, I think $350 is overpriced, but check the bike over, see if it fits (most important) and go from there.... Things to check for are: - headset (the bars can be turned left/ right with no binding or play) - crankset (rotates with no binding/ play or noise) - wheel hubs (rotate smoothly w/ no binding/ play) - rims - spin to check that they're true - tires - cracks evident? (if they're original, I'd count on replacing them, along w/ tubes and rim strips). During your test ride, check for fit (are you comfortable, stretched out, cramped?). Check for functional braking/ shifting, steering and note any noises. Problems in one or more of these areas aren't necessarily deal breakers, but do indicate that some service will be required - meaning more financial outlay for you, post purchase. If you think the bike fits and you''re interested in it, I would recommend asking the seller to bring it to a reputable LBS to be assessed for mechanical condition as well as fit. While there, you could also ask them for a ballpark estimate of the bikes value. HTH, and if you have any concerns about the bike, walk away, update here and we'll try to assist. Good luck!!  

The bike is a 2000 year model. I'm pretty sure I can get it for $300. If not I'll walk off. I may want the bike but I don't need it by no means. I'll check it out good and let you guys know if it has a new home or not. Thanks PJ.  

I'll let you know after our meeting.  

OK I bought the bike for $300.00. The bike is in new condition; not a scratch on it. I spent over an hour and a half checking the bike out. I rode it to make sure it shifted and was good and tight. Checked stem, wheels, crank, cassette. Everything looks like it hasn't been rode much at all. The stand over is a little tight but with 26" inseam almost all bikes are (except my wife's trek navigator wsd) All in all I think I got a really good bike for a pretty decent price.  

Sounds great, congrats!! I don't know what you LBS situation is in your locale, but given your inseam maybe consider opting for a standard fitting. Should run about $50, give or take 'some'. Post pics if you get a chance. I'd like to see this $300 new (to you) bike! :thumbsup:  

I'll do it tomorrow morning. Greenville SC has a big push on to make biking more than just pastime but a life style. Check out our Swamp rabbit trail...love it... the whole county is having bike lanes put on almost all the roads. I just started riding about 3 months ago because of my health. i've lost 30 lbs and my big goal was to ride up Paris mountain in Greenvile ....well i did it !!! on my little red Gary Fisher. Now I have a bike to ride on longer road trips.  

Good for you re: the weight loss and efforts to improve your fitness. :thumbsup: Good for Greenville SC on promoting (safe) biking. I wish that philosophy would spread.....  

You're welcome, glad I could help. Yes, the plan is to eventually relocate south, southwest or west (anywhere warm !), so we might just cross paths. I'll be the guy smiling and nodding as we pass... :wink5:  

Not sure about where you live, but Trek 1000s of that vintage with Sora 7 speed and a non-carbon fork are fetching that much cheddar. In fact I sold a Tiagra equipped 2000 Specialized Allez for more than that and it was in good but not excellent condition like the one you purchased. Not only did my phone ring like crazy within five minutes of posting on c-list, the guy that bought it drove 40 miles and I had it sold in less than an hour. Sounds like a you got a good deal to me. BTW, I sold my bike to a guy who is a seasoned rider who has four other bikes, He was planning to build up the frame to do CAT5 crits on.  

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Bike test – trek 2000.

These days it seems you can’t go anywhere without seeing a Trek being ridden by a rider of any age. Winning seven tours has made a big difference. Lance’s victories have certainly been good for the Wisconsin based company. He’s been made an ‘executive’ of Trek to salute his input into the company – that’s how much they value his input.

But there was a time when Trek road bikes (and to some extent bikes from other big US giants) weren’t that highly regarded as quality bikes, at least in the European cycling world. They’d built their reputation in the Mountain bike boom years. Back in the early nineties if anyone had suggested a Trek, Cannondale, Specialized or Scott would be a recognised ‘pro-peloton’ bike you’d be met with fits of laughter. Now though, that has all changed. Trek has worked closely with the Discovery team (and before that US Postal) to deliver bikes that are faster than the competition. And all this rapid development has been great for the consumer, as the technology has gradually worked down to the cheaper models.

Frame and Fork The 2000 sits bang in the middle of Trek’s impressively large road bike range. When first setting eyes on the blue/black/silver paintjob, you’ll either like it, or loathe it. But love or hate it, the paint hides an impressive frame. Trek has continued to develop their own aluminium tubing, ZR9000, which is used for all the main tubes except the seat stays. Here, a pair of fat OCLV carbon seatstays provides a nice amount of seated resilience. The main tubes of the frame are fat and chunky, and neat and smooth welding looks business-like and is really well executed.

Up front a Bontrager Race full carbon fork slides into the integrated headset. A nice touch is how the mainframe paintjob is extended seamlessly to the forks. The 2000 uses traditional non-compact geometry, with a 73.8° head angle and 73° seat angle, this has a familiar feel and the fork certainly tracks and smoothes the road ahead.

Most of the kit on the 2000 comes with a Bontrager label, much of it is functional and lightweight, if a little repetetive (all the components are Bonty’s). But the Race wheels didn’t disappoint. They might be low down in the overall range, but they worked great and are very strong. They’re not particularly light though, 1070g for the rear and 760g for the front. We found the Bontrager 23mm Race Lite tyres fast and comfortable, though we slashed the sidewall within the first few rides (it was wet), so long-term durability maybe an issue, but at least they’re wearing reasonably slowly. Overall the DT hubs and tight build made for a very sure set of hoops and they look the nuts.

A complete Shimano Ultegra groupset works faultlessly, in fact there isn’t much more that can be said that hasn’t be said already – so I won’t. The Hollowtech II chainset/bottom bracket is super stiff and matches the stiffness of the frame perfectly, it also has smooth lines that echo the intergated front end and the overall look is very pleasing, in an almost sculptural way. Bontrager also supplies the 44.5cm wide handlebars, with an ergo shape. Bar shape is a personal thing so we can’t really fault them [I can! – ed]. An 115m stem keeps the steering tight, and the now standard carbon seatpost provides some additional comfort and looks great. The Bonty saddle wasn’t too popular and those who rode it swapped it for a more familiar perch pretty quickly.

Conclusion Seeing as the 2000 is Trek’s somewhere-in-the-middle-of-the-range race bike, its doesn’t excite like some bikes further up the range, Lance doesn’t ride one for starters. But it is the kind of bike that anybody can jump on and straight away feel at home. The handling is very stable, very reliable and very predictable. Limits can safely be explored, and the bike issues so much confidence you can feel safe about hooning around back lanes, congested city streets or the race track with the assured feeling any good bike should endow you with.

The marriage of 6061 aluminium and Trek’s properierty carbon, OCLV, provides a resilient and lively ride. Compared to the all carbon Pilot the 2000 feels more alive. We tested the Trek Pilot earlier this year and concluded that it is a fantastic Etape/Audax bike. Well if you want to make the step up to racing you could consider the 2000 instead. it’s certainly less sedate and a triple option could offer you both Etape gearing and race performance.

The Pilot is excellent at dampening every little road bumpiness though, and this is nice, but it does kind of feel a little dead in direct comparison, like you’re riding along on a cushion of air. On the 2000 the combination of the aluminium main tubes and carbon seatstays, and carbon fork, relays just enough road surface through to the controls, giving you more feel of what the tyres are rolling over. It makes for a more involved ride, far more suited to whipping up a sprint at the head of a road race bunch.

The 2000 is a fast looking bike for sure, but does it ride fast? Well, yes it does, but in a reassuringly safe way. It doesn’t scare you when pushing it hard, instead remaining well poised and stable under all conditions, and it’s this fact that makes it a pleasure to ride. We’d describe the bike as having a somewhat split personality; on the one side it’s devastatingly fast, but on the other it’s happy and comfortable to just cruise along… It does what it says on the tin, which is probably how Trek intended it to be.

Specification (2006 model too)

Frame sizes: 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 63cm Size tested: 58 cm Frame tubing: Alpha 9000 w/OCLV VC Carbon mono stay seat stays Fork: Bontrager Race Headset: Cane Creek Internal, sealed, alloy Crankarms: Shimano Ultegra Hollowtech double Chainrings: 53/39 B/B: Shimano Ultegra Pedals: N/A Chain: Shimano 10 speed Freewheel: Shimano Ultegra 12-25, 10 speed F/D: Shimano Ultegra R/D: Shimano Ultegra Shifters: Shimano Ultegra STI Handlebar: Bontrager Race Lite, 31.8mm Stem: Bontrager Race Tape: Bontrager Cork Seappost: Bontrager Race Brakes: Shimano long reach w/STI levers Wheels: Bontrager Race X Lite 20/24 spoke Tyres: Bontrager Race X Lite AC, 700x23c Weight: 19.3lbs (less pedals) Price: £1500 Contact: Trek UK 01908 282626 www.trekbike.co.uk

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• WHEELS & TIRES
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Trek 2000 2300 Older Road Bike

road race & triathlon, Shimano Ultegra components, ICON Air Rail fork

• USER REVIEWS

The Shimano Ultegra component set is really top-notch. I've had the shifting adjusted from time to time and have always enjoyed precise, responsive shifts and good braking. I've read elsewhere that the Dura Ace set is great, too; I've seen some say, too, that they can't tell the difference.

The only problem I've had with the bike has been with the cassette. Whether through wear and tear, or my riding, or whatever -- after about 800 miles (including some time in the stationary trainer), it became loose, affecting the shifting and requiring a quick rebuild at the LBS. I don't know whether to attribute this to the bike assembly, design, or my riding / shifting, etc.

This is my first road bike and I am extremely pleased with it. I test rode other bikes in a lower price range, and then happened on this while on vacation and couldn't say no. The ride is very smooth; the carbon fork, seatpost, and headset smooth out a lot of road hum. I have been very pleased with the Rolf Vector rims, too. Overall, I think it's a great value.

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I ride a 2003 Bianchi Pista (fixed gear) for commuting as of late. It's a steel frame, very different geometry. For training and racing I would highly recommend the Trek.

Great components all the way around. Geometry is TDF tested. American made. Very pleased with my first bike

Aluminum ride can be a bit harsh at times. Stock saddle stinks and must be replaced immediately. Starting to find a few small creaks and annoyances after 2000 miles, but I'm 6'5" 220lbs, so they are to be expected. Too many stickers make the bike look a bit cheesy. I'd prefer it to be a bit less understated.

I went with this bike because it was the only bike in the shop that came close to fitting me (63cm) in my price range <$2000. It is responsive, light, stiff, and quick. It is not a hindrance on climbs and rides smooth and quiet. The Ultegra groupo is top notch, and the Rolf Vector Pro wheels (can you say free upgrade!!) are great. With this being my first true road bike, I don't have much to compare it to, but I'm finding it hard to believe you could get much better without spending twice as much. Plus it's American made, which is nice.

Stiff frame, great components, awesome fork, and the Rolf wheels.

No flux capacitor.

A truly wonderful road bike. It''s fast, stiff,and agile. The Rolf Vector Comp wheels are truly amazing; they''re fast and durable. I''ve only had to have them trued after 9,000 of hard riding.

Stiff frame, with little or no flexibility. AMERICAN MADE AND TOUR PLAYED BABY!! Excellent component grouppo. (Ultegra) Great tires, they stick to ANYTHING (Michelin Axial Pro)

The stock saddle, feels like a 2 by 4. Gotta get that sucker replaced, if you buy this bike, replace the seat, your ass will thank you. Lower aheadset bearing crumbled on me in about 300 miles. Dealer replaced it under warranty. He, said Cane Creek was having problems with them.

This bike is TIGHT, AGILE, and extremely quick. I have already had her up to 52 miles per hour blasting down into the St. Croix River bottoms. At that speed it is tight and confident. No, shaking. This bike handles very well, and absorbs bumps pretty effeciently as long as they are small ones. Larger road ripples seem to shake my molars loose but thats a small price to pay for such as smooth bike. I''ve ridden 67 miles the longest so for an my bottom felt A-OK.

LeMond Zurich. Steel, but didn''t feel any more comfortable than the aluminum, so I went with the aluminum.

Great frame & forks, Rolf wheels are solid & the Ultegra is good

Probably could do with a more comfortable seat.

This is a class bike - it rides like the wind. The frame is very stiff & light for 63cm, while the carbon fork gives good damping. It goes up the Austrian passes like a breeze. It´s stable at speed & corners well for a big bike. I like the Rolf Vectors after the usual scepticism at first, although they are a bit unstable in side winds. They´re still true too, after some big holes (I`m 192 cm & 85kg), which is something new for me! It´s pretty comfortable on long rides, although a better seat would help a bit. The Ultegra is good coming from 105s. I wouldn´t buy a more expensive bike unless I was racing; I´m sure carbon must be better, but this bike´s a dream anyway. For the money, you won´t do better.

Nil (previous bike was an Australian brand aluminium with 105s)

This bike has great components for the price. Ultegra is a great group for any amateur racer. The frame is strong and fast.

I haven't found one yet.

People may not respect the Trek name because it is a mass produced bike and not from Italy. However this is simply a great combination put together for a great price. You cannot beat it.

Raleigh R700, Trek 5200, Trek 2200

This is a great bike with a very smooth ride (air ride fork helps). It is also very light. I made a few changes to cut the weight even more.

None found so far.

This bike is great! It is very comfortable for the longer rides and it is light and fast.

Cannondale R300

---===TREK 2300 '01===--- Stiff and comfortable ! The frame is stiff but the carbon fork absorbes the road imperfections. Rolf Vector Comp helps you maintains your high speed when downhilling. Weight : 18.5 lbs Ultegra is DA without cost and fragility but it gives you .5 lbs more (who cares, go wash yourself and go bathroom) !

The Rolf Comp are HEAVY : fortunutly the frame and shoes are really stiff to balance this major problem. Ultegra shifters are ok...

THE WHEELS : Rotationary Inertia ! even if you bike is 5lbs more but you got a light wheelset (1.5 Kg or less) you will accelarate faster. Understand that aero rims USUALLY weights more that normal rims so even if your aero wheelset is lighter the non-aero wheelset is accelarating faster becuze the weight is near the center. For 2000$ try to get Rolf Pro; it will improve accelaration and ease the hills + they still got the amazing feature of the double lacing spoke : aero and strong. Mavic does good performance wheelset perhaps not stong. Those Rolf are bulletproof and I would even say bombproof (I've hit yesterday a severe pothole (really a bad one) at 60 KPH and the wheelSSS are amazingly true), I was looking at my speed while downhilling and I stroke that pothole with all my weight in the front. My TT's are doing the same performance has before but when I'll get the cash for Rolf Pro "It will never be the same" with my Spec elite I was running with Heliums but heliums at high speed are not doing good. The wind drag is really strong, but wouldnt say nothing the climbing effect of these rocket lightweight wheels. But heliums get damage and untrue very fast, just one good pothole and it's end. (If you got enough cash buy those for racing) Icon stuff is good, not perfect though, but it make the bike cheaper ! Very good bike, if you are a TT rocket or climbing hydrolic machine get the 2300 + Rolf Pro, else the stock 2300 is surely better then those 5000$ wierd looking hellborn machines.

specialized allez elite (stupid ritchey wheelset) & specialized allez comp (stupid wheelset again + too heavy) Allezs '00 and '01 doesnt have a stiff frame + it's heavy Greg lemond zurick '01 (dont like the feeling of the frame, too smooth and...I just don't like it)

Light weight and smooth ride stand out the most. No one told Trek that alu frame have to be harsh! It shoots up hills and along the flats. ALL your pedaling power goes straight into moving the bike not over coming it's weight. And the price wasn't too bad either at just IRL£675 (US$770) for the frame set. Sliver paint looks good.

None so far.

First off I'm talking about the 2001 frame set (58cm), not the 2000 bike. This is an outstanding bike for the money. I got the 2001 frame set from my lbs and it cost just IRL£675 (US$770), the full bike costs IRL£1750 (US$1998) which isn't too bad a price for a bike of this class here in Ireland. The ride is smooth, real smooth, if CF is better than this then it must be like floating. It shoots up hills and rockets along the flats. I've had no problem climbing hill on this bike and I'm not light (206lb). Anyone looking for a good bike for either racing or recreational riding should have a look at one of these, if you can fit on it that is.

2001-- 2300. Ultegra, Rolf's (no problems), great frame, who says aluminum has to be really harsh?

Seat ok, but could be a little better.

I tried out lots of bikes before settling on the 2300. Giant, Lemond Zurich (steel), Specialized. I'm 6'2, 170 -- couldn't get comfortable on the compact frames. I ride about 70 miles on weekends, various road surfaces northwest of Houston (road hazard was water moccasin snakes last weekend). I've banged this bike around quite a bit, and and its comfortable. Rode the MS 150 from Houston to Austin -- 180 miles (why not the MS 180?), including several stretches of "desurfaced" road that, well, needs to be resurfaced now. No squeeks, rattles, etc. No loosening. Did just fine in the hills around Austin. In high cross winds, the Rolfs can throw you to the side a little. The bike goes, I'd buy it again.

Ridden many bikes.

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48cm Trek Alpha SL 2000

Cool Features

Trek Bikes – The world's best bikes and cycling gear

All-new Trek Emonda ALR takes lightweight frame tech to alloy models

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When Trek announced their Emonda carbon road bike line , they backed up their “world’s lightest” claims with an impressive frame and fork and an even more impressive 10.25lb (4.6kg) complete bike. Now, they’re adding an alloy Emonda ALR option that’s also lightweight yet far more affordable.

To earn the Emonda badge, the frame uses their top-level 300-series Alpha Aluminum that’s been hydroformed into size specific tubes, then welded together using a no-see technique that produces smooth joints that use less material to save weight.

The process is called Invisible Weld Technology, which they say produces stronger, stiffer welds despite using less material. Video, pics and more details below…

Trek told us the unpainted frame is 1050g (56), and a painted fork is 358g w/240mm steerer.

Like the ultralight Emonda carbon models, the ALR uses their H2 race geometry, E2 tapered headtube (standard 1-1/8″ to 1-1/2″) and wide Pressfit BB 86.5, meaning this bike is made to go fast. Other frame details include a braze-on front derailleur mount (no need to add a clamp if you’re getting the frameset) and external cable routing.

We’ve requested a more technical description of the welding process (update as we get it), but the frame is only part of the story. The complete bikes come equipped with built-in extras like the a Blendr stem with integrated light/computer mount, and it has Duotrap S compatibility (their ANT+/Bluetooth 4.0 speed/cadence sensor, sold separately for about $60).

You also get a complete group, so the Emonda ALR 6 with Ultregra gets a full Ultegra group from chain to brakes to cassette and everything else. There are no mis-matched parts or down spec’d bits to cut costs. A full carbon fiber tapered fork completes the package.

The Emonda ALR will initially come in two builds, the “6” with full Ultegra, Bontrager Race tubeless ready wheels with R2 tires, and a Bontrager cockpit with alloy short reach/drop bar and carbon seatpost for $2,249.99. Our local Trek Bike Store says complete bike weight is claimed at 17.25lb (7.82kg).

The Emonda ALR 5 drops down to a full Shimano 105 group with non-series Bontrager tubeless ready alloy wheels, R1 tires and a full alloy Bontrager cockpit for $1,759.99. Claimed weight is 18.77lb (8.51kg), colors will be the gloss black/hi-viz yellow and blue shown here, plus a racing red coming soon.

The frameset shares the same paint scheme as the “6” and comes with an FSA sealed cartridge bearing headset for $989.99. The frames have a lifetime warranty carrying a 275lb rider weight limit.

Just for fun, here’s the companion lifestyle video.

All three models shown here are available now and should hit stores soon. Our sources tell us there’ll also be an Emonda ALR 5 with Tiagra, an ALR 8 with Dura-Ace mechanical and ALR 9 with Dura-Ace Di2 coming soon. That last model suggests they’ll have an electronic-only frame, too, since these first models only have external cable routing. At the very top, in terms of light weight anyway, will be the ALR 10 with a full SRAM Red group.

TrekBikes.com

Tyler Benedict is the Founder of Bikerumor.com , where he’s been writing about the latest bikes, components, and cycling technology for almost two decades. Prior to that, Tyler launched and built multiple sports nutrition brands and consumer goods companies, mostly as an excuse to travel and ride in new places.

Based in North Carolina, Tyler also loves the Vanlife & family adventure travel and is always on the lookout for the next shiny new part and off-grid adventure.

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looks like a rebadged Allez

The invisible welding looks a lot like what pretty much every other company calls smooth welding. And has been using for years. You weld the tube normally then go back over it without filler material and “reweld” it. The process smooths out the weld and helps it wet out. REVOLUTIONARY TREK!!!

Interesting that they are using hydroformed tubes but didn’t choose the aero tube shapes of the Madone design.

@Robert W – my sources say the Madone is on the way out. & if the story is about weight vs. areo it would make sense to mimick the emonda shapes. Also, the 2 series aluminum frames are already Madone-esqe.

I always find it funny that companies state how they’ve extensively optimized tube shapes for their flagship carbon fiber bikes, but then seemingly can successfully apply those shapes to materials with very different properties. There is a little marketing lie in their somewhere.

Anyway. Glad to see these Al bikes. CF has been getting too pricey fort me.

I like how they quote an unpainted frame weight, then only offer it in a painted variety. But lets also make sure we pair that unpainted weight with a painted fork weight.

Looks legit. Seeing they are coming out of the Giant factory why not put on the overdrive 2 fork and stem and really take it next level?

Aluminum, how quaint.

Why not sell them unpainted if they weight them unpainted? JBikes if I read you right what your saying is the shapes have far mo9re to do with design than engineering.all thes tube shapes are probaly coming from kitchen appliance design firm and they bs riders who rarely go over 20mph that aero is worth buying a new bike for

That Bontrager cycling kit is pretty damn nice. “Understated” as the hipsters like to say.

How about US made aluminum, with giant tubes, some internal routing, and some really funky paint jobs. Oh wait…

Hasn”t specialized already been doing this for like 3 years now? And better welded joints? Revolutionary-nothing is more like it, just another slightly modified copy frame.

Roy – no I was just commenting on the fact it’s stated how non aero tube shapes are optimized for carbon fiber for whatever properties (stiffness, weight, ride) but then a vastly different material can achieve the same with the same tube shapes? I’m sure they vary material thickness and such, but given the vast difference in CF and Al, I’d think tube shapes would vary more between the two materials, unless the CF and Al frames ride completely different.

Jesus, tough crowd. Lightweight aluminum, full component groups and small price tags… Sounds good to me.

Full Ultegra! Well… except the wheels. Of which, the Bontrager Race spec is a few notches below Ultegra…

y’all are haters. you can pick on the marketing and on random bits and pieces but in the end this is the bike you’re going to start seeing at all the local crits and races. So they have weird marketing, worry about the bike and what it can do for you.

Aluminum is the new carbon.

Yeah a bunch of haters here, Go buy a Specialized because they are not owned by the big man, Oh wait, Specialized is own by a conglomerate, and Trek is family owned. Seems like most people don’t understand the definition of “the man” Don’t hate on them just because you don’t like it that more people ride Trek than any other brand in the US.

@Durianrider, you’re killing me! Lol

When you think about it, it’s a bike people actually look for: Workhorse, and the no-nonsense but clean aesthetic.

Considering the Propel SLR might not come stateside, as well as the update TCR SLR before it, it’s nice to have another potential alloy option on the market that isn’t an Allez or CAAD.

I really like where Trek is going with their new paint schemes. Very minimal branding and no stupid racing stripes and decals. Keep it premium!

Jbikes: I understand why you’re asking about why two frames with different materials have the same tube shapes, but in fact they probably should have the same shapes.

In the bike industry (and many others), it’s common practice to design using isotropic material properties (e.g., with aluminum) for a first pass. The resulting stiffness (quantified through FEA) ensures you’re getting the most sectional modulus you can out of a given tube shape. Only then do you go back and design a laminate schedule with anisotropic materials (e.g., carbon fiber).

This allows the designer to clearly separate the modulus (stiffness) due to tube shape and the modulus due to the laminate schedule. That way, each can be optimized as a discrete step.

Except for a few corner cases, optimal frame tube shape is material-independent. Surprising but true!

Looks like a great bike at a good price. I love nice aluminum race bikes. But why no H1 geometry option? It irks me that companies (not just Trek) spec the really race oriented stuff at the high-end of the price scale. I know a short head tube doesn’t work for everyone but why not give us the option? What does the size of your wallet have to do with your flexibility?

I’m wondering if some of the frames are anodized, so unpainted weight would be pretty relevant.

JasonK – thanks! Great info. Never really thought of it that way but it makes sense.

I like the emonda and the CrossRip frame for my commuter. I would seriously consider if I was in the market and carbon was not an option.

Man that’s a light frame. Nice to see they are using full groupset specs.

I wonder if the welding is a form of aluminium brazing using a lower melting temperature brazing rod. I think this is what Shimano do with the external reinforcing tabs on the aluminium rims. This is supposed to be lower strength than welding but coming up with some newer technology is not beyond Trek’s resources. Or maybe they have come up with a way to modify the pulse action of a TIG welder with a certain filler wire application. Either way, the old double pass method for aluminium is old hat now.

Most companies claim unpainted frame weights. Use this general guide: If a company says “…painted frame weight is…” then it’s including paint. If they don’t specifically say painted then you can guarantee it’s an unpainted frame weight.

The only reason I wouldn’t buy one of these is the head tube is too tall…

I applaud Trek for coming out with a ‘light’ and ‘inexpensive’ aluminum frameset but I’m still not sold on the H2 geometry.

Sincerely, Worlds longest head tube.

I like the option of a high end aluminum frame as well….but this one misses the mark for me because trek refuses to make any bike with its “racer” H1 geometry that doesn’t cost at least 4,500 for a frameset. If they only would make H1 options of their emonda sl frame or this new all I’d buy one in a second. Trek already makes a million bike models….why not better fit options? Ever since they did away with the 6 series madone the options for the budget conscious racer have gone to zero. Bleh. And more seatmast length options trek!

Nearly the same weight as a Cannondale frame that was first manufactured out of the same material about 6 years ago

I think this will make a GREAT race frame.

Certainly beats trying to replace a carbon frame someone broke for you in that ‘last corner of the criterium’ crash.

If I see one more I’m-so-flexible-I-can-stick-my-head-up-my-ass comment about the lack of H1 geometry, I might give up trolling comments on bike rumor all together. Seriously, 5 years at a Trek dealer and we sold maybe 3 H1 bikes (all as special order). We ordered dozens more project 1 bikes in the ‘normal’ H2. Working now at a Cervelo dealer I have very few people balk at the head tube height, and MOST are running a positive angle on the stem anyways. At 6’3″ I run 14cm of bar drop. I have had zero issue getting a proper fit on stock bikes, including Trek. Currently on the newly updated (i.e. market norm) stack of the 2015 Cervelo S5 I still have 15mm of spacers under my stem. If H2 geo just doesn’t do it for you, grab a Cannonade with a low profile headset cap and go ride. They are making a bike for the largest market, obviously the budget racers this bike is designed for are too busy riding their bikes to complain on Bike Rumor…..

Looks like a great bike for the money and your avg rider. Nothing wrong with that. Kudos too for specing a complete group build, awesome!

Waiting for my ALR 5 to arrive!! Last bike I bought was in 1986, a Myata One Ten. Hopefully this one will last another 29 years.

uhhh… the allez actually looks good

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/allez/allez-comp-race

the only thing actually missing from these frames are some colorway options like the tarmacs

i had a domane and the headtube was too tall.

i might get one of these. its pretty affordable all things considered.

There doesn’t seem too much, if anything at all, to complain about here. The Emonda ALR frame MSRP is right in line with a CAAD10 frame MSRP ($10 cheaper actually). It looks good, and it’s certainly not a heavyweight bike. If it rides as good as it looks, it will be a great deal.

@MikeC – Are you kidding? I haven’t seen anyone refer to a full groupset as including the wheel since like 1999. Some people are just desperate to find something to bitch about. The Bontrager Race wheels are great. They only weigh 200g more than the Ultegras, and unlike every Shimano wheel, they are specced completely with off-the-shelf parts that are easily purchasable in any bike shop.

@Adam – Yes, because Cannondale were the first company with an aluminum racing bike. You forget the Trek, via Klein, were making awesome lightweight aluminum race bikes when Cannondale was still welding together soda cans.

@H1 Lovers – You’re all on crack. A quarter of the Trek pros don’t even ride the H1, and I promise you that you are not that fast. I can also tick off a list of local heroes, Cat 1 and PRO dudes, who get by just fine on the H2, usually preferring it to the H1.

@Psi – And the Trek is clearly much better specced than the Cannondale, with an Ultegra crank and Bontrager Race wheels, not to mention a cockpit that won’t require immediate replacement.

Wait to you see the next gen cannondale frame before you jump on this..

I am happy this exists. Buyers beware if you crash this thing it’s probably going to dent up like tinfoil.

@badbikemechanic – What makes you say that? There is a generation of high end aluminum out there that holds up just fine to the rigors of daily life. I personally have an aluminum Allez that I regularly leave locked up outside of bars, the grocery store, as well as race, and it hasn’t even scratched the anodized finish yet.

As always, opinions abound….and everyone is “right.” The H1 vs. H2 debate is clearly a hotter topic than I thought. What it boils down to though is “choice.”

Trek offers the option, meaning there are people that prefer it. I rode a 60 cm H1 Madone 6 series last year, and absolutely loved it. Sadly it was a team bike and I had to give it back at the end of the year. In looking for a replacement I want a bike with similar geometry, but don’t want to spend 4,500 to have the OPTION to get the geometry I like. The head tube on the H1 is 18 cm…compared with 21 cm on the H2. That is a LARGE difference. I don’t think anyone is right or wrong to ride whatever geometry they like. All I’m saying is that for me…the H1 geometry is perfect, and I don’t need to run a -17 stem to get my preferred position of the bike. Being a pro, being fast or slow, is irrelevant. I would just like to see the option available at a reasonable price point.

These bikes are epic. And yes, they blow the competition out of the water.

About time Trek offers something for the Joe-Racers out there. Yes, carbon is super nice but you guess what: so is aluminum. I have a locally-made Aluminum bike and it rides *amazing*. So did my old Caad7 and I bet Specialized’s aluminum bike is also fantastic. We need more people in the sport, and to do that we need a much lower entry-level bar. if for $2,200 you get a nice Al Trek with good geometry, good wheels (i own the bontis tlr and they’re indestructible and readily serviceable), good parts and cockpit that are either race-ready or hammer-ready, then god bless Trek. For the record i own a cannondale six and it’s a phenomenal bike. but my aluminum rig is my favorite. way to go, Trek – kudos indeed.

Arguing that “some pros ride H2, therefore nobody needs H1” is well, just a poor excuse for an argument. An H1 aluminum Emonda would be a hit, and I would purchase one as soon as it were available. I’ve owned and ridden both H1/H2 models, and greatly prefer the H1. As an aside, direct mount breaks on this beast would be the icing on the cake. Think about it Trek.

This bike compared with the new caad 12 is nothing …

I’ve got a current model year Allez smartweld frame built up with full 105 and tubeless Shimano wheels. I certainly didn’t do it for $1760 retail, but then some parts on my bike (bars, saddle, tires) are from a very much higher trim level. I’ve also got all the accessories (cages, tools, &c) in my price, and I was unable to use the economy of scale a manufacturer can.

ANYWAY. The ride quality of my Allez is nothing short of amazing considering. It is *as smooth* as my steel 3-speed with 38mm tires over brick roads. I have no problems riding the Allez a hundred miles, though I run out of water. The Allez smartweld is making me completely re-think aluminum as a frame material, especially for amateur racer types.

These Treks seem to DIRECTLY compete with the Allez smartweld introduced last year, which is great, since it engenders competitive designs. When you get an Allez Comp (with 105), you pay less, but you miss out on the excellent 5800 brakes and crankset, and get bog standard training wheels. Moving up to an Allez Expert (with Ultegra), gets you a full groupset with carbon SL-K crank and ‘Fulcrum’ wheels at a competitive price.

I’d love to ride these Treks back to back with my Allez.

I am happy to see Trek jump into the “high end” aluminum market. I have owned & loved several iterations of CAAD’s. I have also read good things about Specialized redesigned Allez frames. I am now hearing of a redesigned CAAD12(?) to be released later this Summer…(anyone else hearing any details?) I would have liked to have seen a disc version from Trek… (Spec as well.) I believe that road disc offerings from every manufacturer will increase exponentially once the pro’s are riding them. I wanted my next road bike purchase to have discs so that I can look for second set of wheels that will be future proof…(thru-axles coming next?) I had my eye this year’s CAAD10 Rival disc, hoping the boys at Cannondale offer an Ultegra disc spec on the CAAD12 later this year. 🙂

Just ordered my alr 6 today! I work at a trek dealer, and I have to say H2 is usually great for 99% of our customers, and they usually have the stem flipped up. For the 1% of people that actually want that huge bar drop, you can always size down and make it look super pro with a longer stem! Nothing wrong with that!

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Bike Makes a Clicking Noise When Pedaling: Fix (Step by Step)

Bike noises are unpredictable. There is nothing more worrying than hearing a clicking sound while on your bike ride. It’s worse when you do not know where the noises are coming from because your bike may have serious mechanical issues. Instead of taking your bike back on the road, it would be better to find the source of the sound and fix it. Taking out the bike for a ride might result to something breaking or result to some sort of accident whether small or big.

Here is why your bike makes clicking noises when you are pedaling and how to fix it.

Table of Contents

The Derailleur Hanger

Pedals and shoes (cleats), unsteady brake pads, bottom bracket, shifter cables, poorly lubricated parts, creaking and squeaking sounds, clunking or rattling noises, keep your bike regularly maintained, bike parts that cause creaks, squeaks, and clicks.

It is important to inspect your bike before every ride. If you notice that bike is clicking you should find the source of the clicking sound and fix it before raiding. Making sure that bolts on your bike are tightened and there are no squeaking sounds can prevent injuries and any damage to a bike. Lets take a look at most common bike parts that can cause bike to creaks, squeaks and clicks.

A misaligned or bent derailleur hanger will cause bike clicking sound when pedaling. Regardless of the size of the bend on the hanger, it will still throw off shifting and cause the bike clicking noises. In other instances, the clicking sounds occur when the hanger rubs against the bike frame.

– How to fix bike derailleur hanger clicking :

In the case where the hanger is rubbing against the frame you can try following to fix it

• Detach the hanger and clean up all components.
• Make sure you oil the surfaces to reduce any friction.
• Repair the hanger if you need to before re-installing it back.
• Remove them pulleys and oil/grease them before putting them back up.

One easy way to diagnose the clicking sound on your bike is to listen to its rhythm. If the pedals are the issue , you will notice the clicking noise when you pedal after every single pedal stroke. Clicking and squeaking with every stroke or rotation can also be as a result of faulty cleats. 

– How to fix bike pedal clicking noise:

Remove the pedals from the bike and grease them. Make sure the crank arm, washers and pedal are intact when re-installing them. Lubing the pedal springs every now and will help you prevent squeaky bike noises.

If your shoes get noisy during pedaling it’s a sign that you need to clean and lubricate them.

When the brake pads rub against the rims of the bike pedal while you are pedaling they can cause a clicking noise.

– How to fix bike brakes knocking noise :

First, make sure that the brake pads are toes in and in optimum condition. The front pads should only make contact with the rear part of the bike.

RELATED: Keep Your Bike Running Smoothly ­- How to Maintain a Mountain Bike

If the sound is not coming from your drivetrain and pedals, then the bottom bracket is definitely your culprit. Parts of your bike like the bottom brackets can be loose, causing annoying clicking sounds when you pedal.

– How to fix bottom bracket clicking sounds :

Check to see if the bottom brackets are tight. To reduce the clicking sounds, you have to tighten the bottom bracket cups. If your bike has a pre—fit bottom bracket you and you don’t have the tools to fix them, it would be better to take the bike to the bike shop for a quick repair.

Constant clicking sounds in certain gears means there is an issue with your shifter cables. If the shifter cable stretch, they can pull the derailleur out of alignment. This causes the chain to rub against the derailleur cage ride between the gears, making a constant clicking sound.

– How to fix shifter cables rubbing noises:

If your derailleur hanger is not bent and the derailleur is aligned, then the next solution is to tune the tension on the derailleur. If this does not fix the clicking sounds on your bike then you will need to replace the shifter cables.

Difficulty pedaling the bike, followed by a clicking and nocking sound while you are pedaling is a clear indication that you are  working with poorly lubricated bike.

Without lubrication, the chain won’t give you guaranteed performance while cycling. When it’s not well maintained, the chain will not accommodate the energy received during cycling.

– How to fix poorly lubricated bike:

The solution here is as simple as lubricating the bike. Use a lubricant lube or spray on the rollers to avoid the clicking and knocking sounds. Applying lube on your bike every two weeks should work out fine.

Other Bike Noises and How to Fix Them

While it’s uncommon, defective bike frames can be the cause of persistent creaking noise while you are pedaling hard. 

– How to fix bike frame creaking noise:

Unfortunately, bike frame malfunctions can be hard to diagnose. Frame defects like hairline cracks are hard to find if you are not a professional. The main solution is to take the bike to your local bike shop for diagnosis and fixing.

Quick Release or Thru Axle

The quick release will cause a squeaking noise when loose or dirty.  

– How to fix quick release squeaking noise:

To fix this, you need to tighten the quick release or thru acle and make sure it is not cracked or broken on which case will need fixing. Otherwise, make sure to remove, clean and grease the thru axle for a better riding experience.

RELATED: Fluid Nitro Mountain Bike Crank Removal

Loose Chain 

If you hear a clunking or rattling noise while riding your bike, it could be due to a loose bike chain. A loose chain can cause the links to bounce around and hit the adjacent gears, causing a clunking noise.

Loose chain can also produce a rattling noise when the chain slaps against the chainstay or derailleur. Make sure to inspect your bike chain regularly in order to prevent any problems.

– How to fix loose chain rattling noise:

To fix this issue, chain will need to be tightened. 

• The first step is to shift the chain to the smallest chainring and sprocket, so that there is less tension on the chain.
• Then, use a chain tool to loosen the bolt that attaches the chain to the derailleur.
• Pull the chain taut by lifting the rear wheel off the ground and rotating the cranks.
• Once the chain is sufficiently tight, reattach the bolt to the derailleur.

Be sure not to over-tighten the chain, as this can cause damage to your bike’s gears or derailleur. With a properly tightened chain, you can enjoy a smooth and quiet ride. .

Loose Headset

If you hear clunking or rattling sounds from the front end of the bike while pedaling, the problem could be a lose headset. To check if this is the issue, you choose grab the front brake lever and rock it from front to back. You will hear the clunking sound and feel movement if you have a loose headset.

– How to fix loose headset rattling sounds:

To fix this, you should tighten the bolds in your headset. Start by loosening the stem bolts, tightening your headset then securing the stem bolts to make sure everything is fixed in tightly.

Loose Bottle Cage

Once common causes for rattling sounds while on the road is a loose bottle cage.

– How to fix loose bottle cage noise:

This is an easy fix: check the bolts that attach the bottle cage to your bike frame. Tighten all loose bolts to the manufacture’s specifications especially when you are dealing with carbon parts.

Too Many Wires

Too many cables at the front of the bike could cause consistent rattling sounds while you are riding. One of the main reasons for this is poor wire set-up or having excessive wires on the front end of the bike. The cables click against the frame or each other, causing a rattling sound. Internal cable routing will cause even launder rattling sounds

– How to fix rattling caused by cables:

The best way to fix this would be by rerouting or replacing the brake and shifter cables. You would be better off taking the bike to your local bike shop if you lack the tools and skills to repair it.

Maintaining your bike is crucial to ensure optimal performance and longevity. Neglecting your bike’s maintenance can lead to more severe problems down the line that will cost more money to fix. Therefore, it’s in your best interest to service your bike regularly.

Regular bike maintenance ensures that small issues are caught before they become bigger problems, meaning you can catch and eliminate any potential noise problems before they turn into something worse.

When your bike needs maintenance or repair, it is best to take it to a reputable bike repair shop. Experienced bike technicians will know exactly how to diagnose and repair any issues with your bike. 

Bike riding is more peaceful and enjoyable when you have a smooth-running and noise-free bike . If you notice some clicking, squeaking, clunking and ratting sounds, it could be one of the reasons mentioned in this article.

Your bike making noises as you pedal is a clear indication that it needs readjustments and repairs. The best thing to do is find the cause of the noise and have it fixed immediately. If you are unsure of the source of your noise, take the bike to your Local bike shop for inspection.

If you find yourself unable to fix a clicking noise or any other issues with your bike, it’s best to take your bike to a qualified bike mechanic. It is essential to keep up with your bike’s needs and not to fall behind on taking it to a professional when problems arise. 

This is one of the hardest noises to find, especially while pedaling. If you stop pedaling and place the bike on a stand, you notice that the is no noise coming out. this is because the stand holds the frame firmly and the water bottle does not rock from side to side.

Yes, with the right tools, shifter cable replacement is easy. you only need a new cable set, cable housing cutters, diagonal cutters, hex wrenches and a small pick.

Are all Bicycle Pedals Universal? Detailed Guide

Can you put hybrid tires on a mountain bike step-by-step, patrick flinch.

Patrick Flinch is a professional cyclist, according to him, cycling is a sport that also helps people stay in good shape. Cycling takes many forms, and styles and so does the cycling equipment, however, this information is not available to everyone and that is why Patrick thought it wise to consolidate the most important information about cycling on “For the Bike Magazine.” Beginner, intermediate and professional cyclists will be furnished with useful insights. They will be able to understand the differences and benefits of both online and physical cycling. Apart from Cycling, Patrick is a family man, he is passionate about cycling and when not on duty, he loves to enjoy biking with his crew.

Posted 2024-09-20 13:48

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Trek Emonda SL6 56cm - $2,000

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Trek Emonda SL6 56cm - bicycles - by owner - bike sale - craigslist

I have a 2020 Trek Emonda SL6. It is a carbon frame, carbon fork, carbon seat post with Shimano Ultegra components. It comes with hydraulic disc brakes, an Arione stiff seat with Speedplay Pedals....