travel in baku

Wander-Lush

15 Captivating Things to Do in Baku, Azerbaijan

Famously described as the love child of Paris and Dubai, Baku is one of the most jarring yet fascinating cities I have ever set foot in.

At 28 metres below sea level, it is the world’s lowest capital. Arid and constantly battered by winds flying off the Caspian Sea, it’s a city that would never have existed if it hadn’t been for the discovery of one thing: Oil.

There was a time when half of the world’s oil supply came out of Baku. Even today, you get the feeling that this is a Boom Town through and through.

Yet behind the flashy architecture (sometimes quite literally!), it has a long and engaging history that goes back to the 8th century. Most of my favourite places in Baku date to this early period or to the turn of the 20th century, when Azerbaijan experienced its first oil boom.

I have been lucky enough to travel to Baku on three separate occasions, spending 3-7 days in the city each time and engaging different local guides to discover the many different sides of the Azerbaijani capital.

Based on my experience, 2-3 full days is the perfect amount of time to spend in Baku.

In this city guide, I will share my favourite things to do in Baku – from the UNESCO-lised Old City, the Icherisheher, to offbeat attractions in the suburbs and several points of interest around the Absheron Peninsula.

Also see days 1-3 of my suggested Azerbaijan itinerary for a list of activities organised into a logical order (coming soon!).

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Planning a trip to Baku?

Here are 6 essential resources that I recommend you check out.

• Evisa for Azerbaijan: Apply via the official evisa portal or use an intermediary such as iVisa .
• Private Baku airport transfer: Book a private transfer starting from $25 for groups of up to four people.
• Where to stay in Baku: The Merchant Baku (high-end); Centric Baku (boutique); Utopia Hotel (mid-range); Cth Baku Hostel (budget).
• Best city walking tour: Baku Old Town & Oil Heritage Free Tour with Azerbaijan Traveller.
• Top-rated day trip: Full-day trip to Gobustan, Ateshgah Fire Temple & Yanardag with lunch (from $65 per person).
• Azerbaijan car hire: Venturing beyond Baku? Find a budget-friendly rental car on the Local Rent website .

How to get to Baku

With Azerbaijan’s land borders still closed to inbound travellers, the only way to reach Baku is by flying into Heydar Aliyev International Airport.

Cross-border buses, taxis and the sleeper train from Tbilisi are not currently operating.

Direct flights to Baku are available from Tbilisi, Istanbul and Dubai, plus a range of European cities including Milan, Paris and London Heathrow.

Baku airport is located 30 minutes from the city centre. To get in from the airport, I recommend using the Airport Express bus (hourly on the hour from 6am-11pm; 1.30 AZN per person) or pre-booking a private transfer .

The Bolt taxi app works well in Baku, but I do not recommend using it at the airport because scams do happen (my dad and I almost fell victim to this on our recent visit).

If you are planning a Georgia-Armenia-Azerbaijan itinerary , I recommend starting in Baku, transiting through Georgia , and finishing your trip in Armenia .

The best things to do in Baku

Here are 15 of my favourite things to do in Baku. You can find all these locations – plus my favourite Baku restaurants – pinned on the Free Baku Map linked at the end of the post.

1. Explore Baku Old City, the historic Icherisheher

The Icherisheher or ‘Inner City’ is the historic heart of Baku and remains the nucleus of the city today. Cradling the waterfront on the south-western side of the city, it is a small area with a radius of around 2 kilometres.

As you enter through one of the old gates, you are walking into the oldest part of Baku, where the bulk of the city’s most important landmarks lie. Together, these monuments constitute the UNESCO-listed Walled City of Baku .

When it was first constructed in the 12th century, the restored city wall was initially devised as a wind break to protect the city from those harsh Caspian winds. To ward off enemies, an extra layer of protection was added: a moat that was not filled with water, but with oil.

There are a few things about the Icherisheher that make it particularly interesting. Firstly, it is built almost entirely from locally quarried stone, which gives  the buildings a uniform appearance that syncs perfectly with the surrounding terrain. 

Secondly, it is a ‘living monument’ with family homes, hotels and restaurants enclosed within. The narrow pedestrian-only lanes in the very centre of the Icherisheher are like a maze.

The two most important monuments to look for within the Icherisheher complex are the Shirvanshah’s Palace and the Maiden Tower. The former lies at the highest point of the walled city, with streets cascading from its footings downhill towards the Caspian. I recommend starting here – both to get your bearings by looking out over the city from the elevated palace gardens, and to visit the museum.

Tip: Entrance to the Shirvanshah’s Palace costs 15 AZN. If you are planning to do multiple museums, there is a combo ticket that covers it plus three more (the Maiden Tower (15 AZN), Underground Bath (8 AZN) and Tahir Salahov’s House Museum) for 36 AZN.

The Palace of the Shirvanshahs is quite modest, likely due to the influence of Sufism on its benefactors, the Shirvanshahs who ruled this territory from 861 to 1538. Their Baku residence dates to the 15th century and is considered one of the most important monuments in the entire country.

For me, it pales in comparison to the lavishly decorated Khan’s Palace in Sheki . But its understated beauty, especially the gardens and the Shirvanshahs’ Tomb, make it worthwhile.

The Maiden Tower was built in the 12th century atop much older structures that have been dated to the 7th-6th centuries BC. Its exact purpose is still unknown, but some theorise that its original function was as a Zoroastrian fire temple or a Tower of Silence used for excarnation.

Much like the Galata Tower in Istanbul , the Maiden Tower has museum displays arranged on different levels as you climb the stairs – but its main draw is the rooftop viewing platform. Unfortunately it has a high glass barricade that makes it tricky to take photos (and besides, the aspect is not that great). Read on for my alternative recommendations for where to get a city view in Baku.

The Yeralti Hamam or Underground Bath Museum is personally my favourite place within the Icherisheher. I completely missed it on my first two trips to Baku – when I visited recently with my dad, he was the one who flagged it.

As the name suggests, it is an 17th-century hamam that has been retrofitted as a museum. Exhibits cover the history and ritual of bathing in Islamic culture – it is really fascinating! There will be an opportunity to participate in this tradition later (see #3 below).

Tip: There is a public restroom right next to the Bath Museum that costs 0.50 AZN.

Aside from these three museum-landmarks, other points of interest within the Old City walls include the Bukhara Caravanserai and the Juma Mosque . There are several Silk Road inns, madrasas and hamams dotted around. The Gasimbey Bath Complex at the southern entrance has a series of old brick domes that you can climb on.

I always enjoy getting lost down the narrow alleys and browsing the different carpet shops and antique stores here. The Museum of Miniature Books is a bit of fun, but do note the odd opening hours (I have not yet managed to catch it).

Entrance to the Icherisheher is free if you are on foot, but there is a 2 AZN surcharge if you are entering by taxi. The gates are open 24/7. I recommend visiting in the early morning or evening.

Discover more things to do in Old Baku in my dedicated guide.

2. Find that photo spot

Don’t leave the Old City without snapping a photo of one of Baku’s most iconic views. This scene of the Icherisheher with the stone arch of the Juma Mosque – beautifully carved with Arabic script – in the foreground and the ultra-modern Flame Towers rising up like a wisp of smoke in the distance perfectly represents the city’s ‘old meets new’ spirit.

You might not believe me, but I found this location completely by accident on my first trip to Azerbaijan in 2017. Now that it’s such a famous Instagram spot, I always make a point of coming back to try and get a ‘perfect’ photo free of people and parked cars!

Early morning and late afternoon are best for the light, but there are always cars parked here these days. You can always zoom in on the architectural details to crop the cars out.

Find ‘that photo spot’ by the Halq Bank ATM (see my map below for the exact location).

3. Enjoy a traditional hammam treatment at Agha Mikayil

This last thing to do in the Old City is best reserved for the evening, so I recommend returning at the end of the day.

You might notice that each of the Icherisheher’s five gates has a hammam bathhouse nearby. This was designed to encourage people (especially Silk Road travellers ) to wash themselves before entering the city.

The 18th-century Agha Mikayil Hammam (Aga Mikayil Hamami) is the only functioning bathhouse inside the Old City that I am aware of. Wash rooms with traditional domed roofs and a sauna branch off from a gorgeous central atrium. 

The signature treatment here is a soapy rub-down followed by a cold plunge and a pot of lemon tea – similar to a Turkish hammam treatment you might experience in Istanbul or even a Tbilisi-style sulfur bath kisi .

Agha Mikayil’s manager, Orhan, is a very friendly chap who will explain the hammam’s various packages without pushing you into anything. He was so warm and welcoming when I dropped by to see how things work.

It’s very important to note that there are different bathing days for men and for women. On Mondays and Fridays, the hammam is open for women only. The other five days of the week, it is only open for men.

Outside the Old City walls, the more modern Taze Bey Bath is quite a spectacle, with an outlandish museum-like display of antiques, taxidermy and other ephemera in the entrance.

Unfortunately this bath is strictly for men only. I was told that women’s massages are available for 35 AZN – but honestly, the female staff here were so rude to me, I would never consider going back for a treatment!

4. Have your Ali and Nino moment in the Philharmonia Garden

Exiting the Old City from the southern gate, you will find yourself inside one of Baku’s many manicured greenspaces. The Philharmonia Garden extends from the wall to the State Philharmonic, a gorgeous concert hall that was built in 1910 (see below for more architecture from this era).

The garden has a pretty fountain and in spring and summer, flowerbeds that brim with tulip bulbs and other blooms. In the past, all the plants for this plot were sourced from travellers who were passing through Baku as a sort of ‘tax in kind’ – thus a huge array of flora from all four corners could be found here.

The Philharmonia Garden was the inspiration for the Governors’ Garden in the novel Ali and Nino by Kurban Said . I cannot recommend this book highly enough – it is a must-read if you are visiting Azerbaijan and the Caucasus region .

Diehard fans of the Caucasian Romeo and Juliet can use this free map for a self-guided Ali and Nino walking tour of Baku.

5. Step back into 20th-century Baku

Baku is commonly thought of as a juxtaposition between the extremely old and the ultra new (for more on the latter, see #12 below). But there is a whole lot that happened in between the foundation of the Icherisheher and the rise of modern Baku.

Some of the city’s most interesting architecture was erected in the early part of the 20th century on the back of Baku’s newfound oil wealth. These buildings form a ring around the Icherisheher and include both public services and, more intriguing to me, private mansion houses erected by the first oil tycoons.

Some reveal the original owners’ initials in metal or stone, and others feature a ‘Salye’ (Salve) inscription on the threshold – just like the houses in Old Tbilisi.

Baroque, Rococo and Moorish elements can all be observed. The style shares many similarities with Tbilisi Art Nouveau, but it must be said that most of the buildings in Baku are in much better shape.

The Ismailiyya Palace is one of the most striking. It was built by the Baku oil industrialist Musa Nagiyev in 1913 using elements borrowed from the Doge’s Palace in Venice.

The Saadet Sarayi (AKA the Palace of Happiness) is another of my favourites. It was used as a Wedding Palace during the Soviet period and still functions as a wedding venue today.

Opera and Ballet Theatre (1911) was under restoration at the time of my most recent visit, but has since reopened. If you get a chance to see a performance here, the ticket price would be worth it to see the interior alone. Browse the playbill on iTicket .

The Nizami Museum of Azerbaijani Literature off Fountains Square was originally built in 1850 as a caravanserai inn. In 1915 it became the Hotel Metropol, then it was a labour union building in the 1920s and 30s. The sextet of sculptures on the facade – each an important Azerbaijani writer or poet – were added later. If you look up at the painted arches from below you can see Soviet symbolism interwoven into the design.

Baku Railway Station (1880) was inaugurated after the Baku-Tbilisi railway opened. Domestic trains also depart from here. There is a small railway museum located inside.

The Fantaziya Hamam (1896) is a real gem. It was designed by city architect Nikolay von der Nonne and was the first electrified commercial building in Baku (there was no water supply until 1914, mind you, so all the water needed for the baths had to be manually carried in).

Unlike the abovementioned buildings which have all been preserved and put to good use, the Fantaziya Bath is in a sorry state of disrepair.

6. Hunt for Soviet mosaics & sculptures

Normally when I write about this part of the world I dedicate a lot of space to buildings and monuments from the Soviet period. In contrast to Tbilisi and Yerevan , Baku is very much lacking in Soviet-era architecture. In fact, I would definitely say that Baku is the least ‘Soviet-looking’ of the three.

There are bits and bobs that you will notice around the place – including relief sculptures in and around the Old City, and this mosaic wall that is a tribute to the Baku jazz scene.

There are plenty more terrific mosaics in Baku that I haven’t managed to see yet – they are top of my agenda for next time. Mosaics of Azerbaijan is a terrific follow on Instagram if you are interested in this sort of thing. You can also find decorative mosaics inside the Baku metro (see #11 below).

7. Sign up for a walking tour with Gani Nasirov

If you’re looking for a guide in Baku, I can’t recommend Gani Nasirov highly enough. I have been on several walking tours of Baku and Gani’s itineraries and insights are head and shoulders above the rest.

As well as a free tour of the Old Town, Gani and his team offer several special interest tours including a food tour, an urban wine tasting and a Baku Soviet Architecture & Mosaics Tour (I need this one in my life!). Browse the full program on Gani’s Azerbaijan Traveller website .

Recently I joined Gani for a Baku Oil Heritage Walking Tour and loved every minute of it. He took me to some of the most charming mansion houses and we even got to go inside the Saadet Sarayi Palace.

If Baku’s oil past is a subject you are also fascinated by, then I recommend you visit the Baku Nobel Heritage Fund Museum (Villa Petrolea) in the White City.

8. Stroll along the Bulvar

Extending for three kilometres along the waterfront, the Bulvar is a wide promenade with picture-perfect views of the Caspian Sea. Not unlike the Old Boulevard in Batumi, Georgia , it has room for both pedestrians and cyclists, and is interspersed with pockets of parkland. I always like to walk along the Bulvar in the evening.

There are several points of interest along the way.

The Swans Fountain presents a nice photo opportunity – the birds’ craned necks echo the curves of the Flame Towers that appear in the distance from behind a handsome Style Moderne corner building.

The Mirvari Kafe (Cafe Pearl) by architects Vadim Shulgin, Anya Val and Irina Orlova-Stroqanova dates to 1961 and is one of the few Soviet-era buildings I saw up-close in Baku. Nearby, there is a long pier that you can walk out to for a city view.

At the southern end of the Bulvar you will find Mini-Venice , a very twee amusement park where you can board a gondola for a joyride along the man-made waterway.

The Azerbaijan Carpet Museum – an iconic piece of architecture shaped like a rolled carpet and with an excellent exhibition on Azerbaijani carpet weaving inside – is also worth visiting if you are interested in regional textile traditions and culture.

9. Take the Funicular to Highland Park for sunset

Behind the Carpet Museum you will find the lower station of the Baku Funicular. The 455-metre-long line runs up the mountainside to a plateau overlooking Baku and the Caspian Sea.

Like Mtatsminda in Tbilisi , Baku’s Highland Park features a restaurant and several green spaces. While you’re there, visit the war cemetery, Martyrs’ Lane , and the Shahidlar Monument with its eternal flame.

Highland Park offers incredible views of Baku, particularly at sunset. The best vantage point is from the terrace in front of the restaurant – see the location on my map below.

From this point you can look back at the Flame Towers , which are perched on the hill above. After sunset, all three are illuminated with light displays.

When you’re done, there is a set of stairs at the end of the viewing platform that leads back down to the Bulvar. (If you don’t want to ride the funicular, you can also walk up via this alternative route.)

Highland Park is open 24/7 and is free to visit. The Baku Funicular operates from 10am until 8pm (with a break from 1-2pm) daily and costs 1 AZN one-way.

10. Photograph the Heydar Mosque – one of the best things to do in Baku at night

Islam is the predominant religion in Azerbaijan (with up to 95% of people identifying as Muslim, and almost an even split between Sunni and Shia) – yet it is widely to considered to be the most secular nation in the Muslim world .

Indeed, walking around the central part of Baku you will only encounter one or two mosques.

One mosque I do recommend going out of your way for is the Heydar Mosque. Located in the 6th Micro-Region on the northern outskirts of the city, it requires a 30-45 minute taxi ride (or a trip on the metro to Nasimi Station) – but it is very much worth the journey.

This is a new mosque, having been completed in 2014. Dedicated as it is to Azerbaijan’s former leader , it is particularly opulent both inside and out.

This mosque looks all the more impressive at night, which is why I recommend going towards the end of the day.

Groundskeepers turn on the floodlights around 20 minutes before sunset. The four minarets and stonework illuminated by brilliant warm lights is quite breathtaking.

I recommend you arrive around an hour before sunset – this will give you enough time to photograph the mosque during golden hour, pop inside, then watch as the lights come on. The call to prayer goes out shortly after for another memorable scene.

11. Ride the Baku metro

While most of downtown Baku is walkable, you will need transportation to reach the Heydar Mosque plus the remaining attractions mentioned below. The Baku Metro is an efficient and affordable way to get around.

Inaugurated in 1967 when Azerbaijan was part of the Soviet Union, Baku’s underground was the fifth subway system in the USSR . Its deep stations and decorated platforms are very much of that era, with mosaics and murals that are heavy on Azerbaijani imagery with Soviet flourishes here and there.

The most beautiful of the 27 stations are Nizami and 20 Yanvar . You can see photos from more of the stations in this blog post – but a word of caution, photography is strictly prohibited inside the metro, and guards take this very seriously.

I snapped a few sneaky photos on my recent trip, and I regretted it! I was approached by two guards who stood over me while I deleted the photos from my camera roll and from the trash (I did sneak one past them, though). They were friendly enough, but it was a nerve-wracking encounter.

The metro in Baku has a couple of quirks. Some stations serve multiple lines from the one platform, so you might be waiting for your train to arrive only to see the timetable switch and a different line pass through. It takes a bit of getting used to.

The Baku metro runs from 6am until midnight. A single fare costs 0.40 AZN, payable with a rechargeable transport card (BakiKART) that you can purchase from any of the automated machines. Note that every station has metal detectors and a security check.

12. Marvel at the ultra-modern Heydar Aliyev Centre

One of my favourite pieces of architecture in the world, the Heydar Aliyev Centre is a must-see in Baku. It is, in many ways, a complete contrast to the ancient monuments in the Icherisheher. Look closer and you will see that its form references traditional Azerbaijani designs.

Designed by the acclaimed Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, the cultural and business centre opened in 2012. While the primary reason to come here is to walk around its expansive perimeter and photograph the curvaceous building from all angles, you can also duck inside to see whatever exhibition is on.

I particularly love this perspective, where the curved facade appears to wrap around the apartment buildings behind it.

Read more about visiting the Heydar Aliyev Centre in my dedicated post.

13. Pop into the Yasil Bazar (Green Market)

The Yasil Bazar or ‘Green Bazaar’ is a 25-minute walk from the Heydar Aliyev Centre, thus I recommend doing both while you are on this side of town.

The huge undercover marketplace sells both fresh produce and artisanal products including spices, dried fruit, and pickles galore. Look out for loose-leaf Azerbaijani tea from Lankaran and muraba sweet preserves made from walnuts, seasonal berries and other fruits.

Unlike some markets in Central Asia, photography is OK at the market in Baku. All the people I met on my visit were exceedingly welcome and many of them wanted to pose for a photo!

From the market, you can continue down the avenue to connect back up with the Baku metro at the main railway terminal (28 May Station).

14. Venture outside the city to Balakhani

If you have a spare afternoon, the satellite suburb of Balakhani (Balaxani) is an interesting spot for a walk. Styled to resemble a Greek village , the houses have all been whitewashed and beautified with creeping jasmine vines and street art murals. It is all very heavily curated, but I still enjoyed it.

The history of this area goes back to 1593 when an oil well was dug nearby. As you walk around you can still see tiny rigs bobbing below the earth like ducks on the surface of a pond. I think this is one of the only places in Azerbaijani where you can surreptitiously photograph oil infrastructure without being reprimanded.

There are several specific points of interest in Balakhani, including the cemetery and turbe (mausoleum), and the old hammam. There are a couple of boutique shops and cafes here as well. It’s a very small area that you can easily cover on foot in a couple of hours.

To get to Balakhani, first ride the metro to Koroglu then take bus 214. Buses wait in front of the kiosks near the Olympic Park metro exit. You can use the same transport card for both. It takes around 60 minutes to reach Balakhani from the centre.

15. Take a day trip to Gobustan, Ateshgah & Yanardag

There are several attractions on the Absheron Peninsula near Baku that you should visit as a day trip from the city. I highly recommend a combined tour to Gobustan, Ateshgah and Yanardag.

When I was last in Baku with my dad, we joined this day tour that I booked through Viator . Although parts of the day were a little rushed, we both really enjoyed the trip and thought it was excellent value for money.

Gobustan (Qobustan) is located an hour southwest of Baku along the Caspian Coast. There are two things to see here: The State Historical and Cultural Reserve (i.e. the petroglyphs ), and the Gobustan mud volcanoes. All day tours incorporate both.

Azerbaijan is home to the vast majority of the Earth’s mud volcanoes (around 344 in total), including the biggest. The Gobustan landscape is a wild and rugged terrain blistered with bubbling craters that is really a lot of fun to wander around.

I first visited the mud volcanoes back in 2017. On my recent trip, I found it was exactly as I remembered – but in the near future it will be developed for tourism and fenced/ticketed. In the meantime, the only way to reach the area is with a local taxi. I really hope the Lada Army hangs around as travelling through the moon-like landscape in a retro car makes the experience all the more surreal and exciting!

Nearby, the Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve is an open-air museum of petroglyphs and rock carvings. One of Azerbaijan’s five UNESCO World Heritage Sites , there are an estimated 1,000 examples of rock art here, the oldest of which were created 40,000 years ago.

Tours start at the small museum and continue through the landscape via walking paths. The whole area is eerily beautiful, and both the marked signage and the guided tour are terrific. The petroglyphs here are some of the best I have ever seen – they are easy to spot and in great condition.

Located back on the eastern side of Baku, Ateshgah (pictured above) is an ancient temple that is sacred to Zoroastrian , Sikh and Hindu worshippers. Constructed between the 17th and 18th centuries and used by traders moving along the Grand Trunk Road , it now houses a small museum.

The final stop, Yanardag , is Baku’s famous ‘flaming mountain’. It is much smaller than you might imagine (more like a tiny hillock), but the spectacle is impressive nonetheless.

As the story goes, in the 1970s a shepherd flicked his lit cigarette onto the ground and the hill caught alight. The flames, fed by natural gas oozing up from underground, have been burning ever since.

I could have sworn I saw a gas pipe in there amongst the silver coins people toss to the flames for good luck – but who knows!

If you want my honest opinion, Ateshgah and Yanar Dag are both a bit overrated. The sites have been overdeveloped and are a bit naff. Gobustan was definitely the highlight for me back in 2017 and again on my last visit.

Read more about it in this dedicated Gobustan Guide , or use my round-up of the best day trips from Baku to explore alternative options.

Where to eat & drink in Baku

Passage 145 : This restaurant off Fountain Square has a couple of special dishes, including a Baku Salad – tomatoes, red onion, cornelian cherries and mint. Their balli tort honey cake was one of the best things I ate in Baku.

Dolma : Every time I visit Baku I make sure to eat at least one meal at this underground restaurant. The dish of the house is dolma (recognised as part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage ), and I especially love their plov (Azerbaijan’s national dish), which comes in all different flavour combinations and sizes.

Fisincan : This restaurant’s covered terrace is a nice setting for lunch. We had a decent Azerbaijani saj (mixed grill) here, but I wasn’t too fussed about the service.

KEFLI : This cute wine bar serves Azerbaijani wines along with gourmet cheese and tasting boards. I love the retro posters. Be sure to make an advanced reservation if you are visiting on a weekend.

90’lar Cafe : This quirky cafe-restaurant is styled to be a throwback to the 1990s. Cocktails and light meals (mostly European cuisine and burgers) are available. If you’re interested in seeing live music in Baku, many of the city’s best Mugham jazz bars – including ETUD – are located in this area.

Coffee Moffie : My favourite cafe in Baku, Coffee Moffie has excellent coffee and sweets, with ample seating and WIFI for remote workers.

Map of things to do in Baku

Use this Google Map to plan your trip and navigate Baku .

Where to stay in Baku

If it’s your first time in Baku, I highly recommend choosing a hotel located inside or close to the walls of the atmospheric Old City .

TOP CHOICE: Utopia Hotel (⭐ 8.5). Located within the Old Town walls, this hotel has simple, tidy rooms and a rooftop terrace with water views. Staff are helpful, and the complimentary breakfast is a nice bonus. It’s great value for Baku. I stayed here recently with my dad.

BUDGET: Cth Baku Hostel (⭐ 9.4). Located in the popular student neighbourhood of Yasamal, west of the Old City and just footsteps from Nazimi Metro Station, this hostel has budget-friendly private rooms with shared bathrooms and comfortable communal spaces for socialising.

MID-RANGE: Centric Baku Boutique Hotel (⭐ 9.4). Located just outside the Old City walls close to the National Museum, this modern, stylish hotel has chic rooms with city views. A terrific breakfast is included.

HIGH-END: The Merchant Baku (⭐ 9.4). Located right on the old wall, 600m from the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, this opulent hotel has spacious rooms with private balconies and a gorgeous Silk-Road-inspired cocktail lounge.

Where to go next: More ideas for Azerbaijan

• Explore more of the Absheron Peninsula with these 12 best day trips from Baku
• Head north to the Silk Road city of Sheki , my favourite place in the country
• Plan your journey from Baku to Sheki with plenty of stops along the way
• Sleep inside a Silk Road caravanserai in Sheki , one of the coolest things to do in Azerbaijan
• Visit the incredible Sheki Khan’s Palace
• Travel east to meet the carpet weavers in Quba
• Spend a morning in Lahic , a trade town known for its copper workshops
• Experience alpine hiking and homestays in Xinaliq, Azerbaijan’s highest village
• Plan your trip: The ultimate Caucasus itinerary or an efficient 10-14 day Azerbaijan Georgia itinerary

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Things to do in Baku in 3 days – A complete guide

By Joan Torres 19 Comments Last updated on April 24, 2024

Until very recently, Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, was a real off-the-beaten-track destination only known by the most intrepid travelers.

Pierce Brosnan, in the James Bond movie The world is not enough , was the first person who finally told us about its existence, when he showed images of some oil fields right in the desert plains around Baku.

Those images, however, didn’t really trigger any interest in the country, as people thought that, perhaps, Baku was not very different from the Arab Gulf monarchies, which was a really wrong approach.

Whereas it is true that Baku is an oil-rich city and, in fact, Azerbaijan was the top world exporter at the beginning of the 20th century, many years before the Gulf monarchies discovered the black gold, on the other hand, it is also a city with a very deep history, belonging to a region which has been inhabited for thousands of years, besides having an important role in the Silk Road , as well as, of course, being part of the USSR for nearly a century.

Nevertheless, thanks to exponential development, Baku today is an almost futuristic city that manages to combine both tradition and modernity, two elements that can be seen together all across the city.

After visiting Baku on two occasions, here is a complete Baku travel guide with all the best  things to do in Baku in 3 days, including plenty of travel tips.

For more places to visit in the country, read my complete itinerary to Azerbaijan

In this Baku travel guide you will find:

Table of Contents

• Introduction
• Where to stay
• How to move around
• What to do in Baku
• Where to eat
• More information

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Introduction to traveling to Baku

From the end of the 19th century, Baku has been a global leader in oil exportation and has been growing at full speed, but it was only after the dissolution of the USSR and Azerbaijan’s post-independence, that this development was accelerated, Baku became a futuristic and modern city, perfectly comparable to European standards.

However, due to the obvious corruption, or preferably, bad resource management, this development has been exclusively focused on the capital, to the extent that its contrast with the second largest city, Ganja, where you can still find unpaved streets in the city center, is huge.

The capital of Azerbaijan is a luxurious city, a  Dubai -like-concept but with a real soul, meaning that, in the city center, you can find a Rolls Royce official store and the most luxury brand stores, along with buildings and mosques from the 12th century.

Going to Tbilisi? Check out my city guide to Tbilisi

Baku is, definitely, the most developed city in the Caucasus (including Armenia and Georgia ) but, in my humble opinion, this development is economic, not social.

Whereas, in its neighbor Georgia , many young people are quickly learning European values, in Baku, even though they are a rich and supposedly secular city, people are much more traditional, and you will quickly realize when you only see men hanging out in most places, people not speaking English and, overall, people being more closed-minded.

However, visiting Baku is totally worth it and not only due to its eccentric composition but also because it is a real blend of Europe, the East, and the Soviet Union, so, so chaotic, that it’s practically impossible to define it, and that’s the most exciting thing about it.

Visa for visiting Baku

From January 2016, you can  apply for an e-visa to visit Baku.

The visa costs 25 USD, takes 3 working days and is valid for 30 days.

For 50 USD, you can also apply for an urgent visa and get it on the same day.

All Western nationalities are eligible for the e-visa but you can check the full country list here .

Where to stay in Baku

Backpackers Hostel – Sahil Hostel – The busiest hostel in town, as it is really cheap, plus everything is brand-new and very clean. A nice place to meet other travelers, it also has private rooms.

Budget Guest House –  Khazar Old City Guest House – If you want to stay in a traditional house, in the heart of the old city, this is the most highly recommended.

Mid-range Hotel –  Deniz Inn Boutique Hotel – The top well-rated boutique hotel in town is a traditional building in the old part of Baku.

Top-end – Four Seasons –  Located downtown, this is the best 5-star hotel in Baku. The building where is it built is a real landmark, by the way.

Transportation – How to move around Baku

Moving around baku by taxi.

In order to avoid bargaining with taxi drivers, I recommend you use Uber and short taxi rides costing around 2-3AZN (1.20 – 1.70USD), so moving around by taxi is also a feasible way to check all the places to visit in Baku. Apparently, Yandex isn’t available anymore.

Moving around Baku by metro

There are two metro lines and a single ticket costs 0.30AZN (18¢). However, first, you have to get a metro top-up card which costs 2AZN (1.20USD).

Alternatively, you can buy a single-use metro card, which you can only top-up once and costs 0.20AZN (12¢).

Moving around Baku by bus

There is a modern bus network but you will have to know where you are going. The price is the same as in the metro.

How to get from and to the airport

How to get from baku city center by bus.

There are buses going and coming to the airport every 20 or 30 minutes, all day long. They drop you off in downtown, in front of 28th May metro station. A single ticket costs 1.30AZN (75¢) and it also works with the metro card.

How to get from Baku city center by taxi

With Uber, a taxi ride costs around 10AZN (5.90USD).

For generic info about moving around the country, read the transportation section of this guide.

Things to do in Baku in 3 days

In 3 days, you can cover most things to do in Baku, including a day trip to visit the mud volcanoes and the petroglyphs of Qobustan .

If you are interested in all the tours offered in Baku, as well as day trips from Baku, there is a large offer of tours that can be booked online. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Map of the places to visit in Baku

What to do in Baku on day 1

The first day Baku itinerary is quite optimistic but, if you plan well ahead, I think you can manage it.

Baku Old City

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the walls of the Old City mark the boundaries of where the city used to extend.

Its oldest building is claimed to date from the 11th century, although some historians think that it might belong to the 7th.

As in any old city, the best you can do is getting lost among its entangled streets but there are a few buildings which are must-visits, like Maiden Tower , one of the most iconic buildings in the country, which is even printed in one of their notes.

The tower contains a museum that shows the historical evolution of Baku and you can also climb to the top to enjoy some of the best views in the city. Going to the top costs 10AZN (5,90USD).

The other building which you can’t miss is the Shirvanshas Palace , whose main attraction is a stunning mosque from the 15th century. The  Shirvanshas is the dynasty that ruled the region for nearly 700 years, from the 9th to the 16th century.

From all the things to do in Baku, the Old City is, certainly, the most interesting one.

Do you want to visit the Old City of Baku with a professional guide? CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

The Carpet Museum

In my opinion, the cool part about the Carpet Museum is not getting in, as the outside is much more awesome than inside. Jokes aside. If you are interested in Persian carpets, just go ahead but, if not, the coolest thing is to take pictures at the waving walls that are trying to imitate a carpet.

Read: Everything you need to know to travel to Georgia

The Flame Towers

The Flame Towers are the three flame-shaped skyscrapers which managed to link Baku to the concept of futurism by themselves.

To be honest, they are only 182 meters high but, due to their position, in the upper part of Baku, they are visible from anywhere.

You can get there on foot through some stairs that go along a beautiful park. There is a funicular at the bottom of the park but I always found it closed.

The towers were finished in 2012 and, besides showing off, their main purpose is to accommodate pretentious businesses like Fairmont Hotel , one of the top hotels in the city, a Lamborghini dealer store, and I don’t know what other posh stuff.

The oil extractors

This place is off the main tourist trail but, if you are interested in checking out some perfectly functional oil drillers, this is your chance.

They are not very far and, actually, you can get there on foot from the Flame Towers. They are just behind the TV tower (you can see the exact location on the map), from where you can also enjoy pretty cool views of the city and the bay.

By the way, if you get down to the seaside, you will pass by a very poor neighborhood of Baku, which clearly shows the huge social inequality that rules in this country.

Taza Pir Mosque

A one-hundred-year-old mosque, even though it was built on a place that used to serve as a sanctuary from the 15th century.

To be honest, this isn’t an outstanding mosque but, for me, the most interesting part was to see the other face of Azerbaijan, which is the face of Azerbaijani men worshipping and showing their faith to Islam.

Like all the Muslim ex-Soviet countries, the Government of Azerbaijan is secular but, its main peculiarity is that, unlike the rest of the world, the most religious people are the young ones and not the elderly that lived in the Soviet Union, as Islam is only now coming into fashion. When I was traveling in Uzbekistan , I also observed a similar situation.

Heydar Aliyev Center

Another pretty cool thing to do in Baku is visiting the futuristic building whose architect is the deceased Iraqi-British woman Zaha Hadid .

With its surrealistic and almost impossible curved walls, this building is a perfect sample of innovation and modern art.

Its surroundings are filled with super weird statues, like giant rabbits and snails, apart from the classic I Love Baku .

The building accommodates different types of temporary exhibitions. The entrance fee costs 15AZN (9USD).

Museum of Miniature Books

If you have the time, you can also visit the museum that has the World Guinness Record for the largest collection of miniature books, including the 3 smallest books ever, measuring 2mmx2mm, which can only be seen using a microscope.

Like me, you may be thinking that those mini-books don’t make a lot of sense, basically because you can’t read them, but they originate in an ancient Persian tradition.

Fountain Square and the rest of downtown

Composed of the most fashionable shops, restaurants, bars, hipster cafés, parks and so on, I recommend you finish your day in downtown, in the area around Fountain Square, the place where all the local people gather to hang out.

What to do in Baku on day 2

Yasil market.

I bumped into this market by mere chance and then I found out that it is very famous among locals, but I didn’t see any tourists.

Yasil is a traditional market which has been restored as per Baku modern standards. It is a typical fruit and vegetable market and everything sold is seasonal.

I was lucky enough to visit Baku in October, the pomegranate season, the symbol of Azerbaijan.

Almost all stalls were filled with pomegranates and they were selling freshly squeezed juice for just 1AZN (60¢).

Yanar Dag (Burning Mountain)

Did you know that Azerbaijan was formerly called The Land of Fire ?

From the 12th century, tales from travelers wandering this region mentioned the existence of several magic fires found across the area.

They thought those fires were magic because they burnt continuously without any wood but, what they didn’t know is that the fire was coming from natural underground gas fields.

Yanar Dag is one of those fires which is still burning, even though the fire is artificial today, as it was extinguished after they discovered an oil reserve next to it in the 19th century.

How to get there – Yanar Dag is outside of the city. To get there, you will have to catch the 147 bus from Azadliq metro station. Alternatively, you could also get there by Uber, which is easier, quicker and won’t cost you much.

Fire Temple Ateshgah

In the 18th century, a merchant traveler was so fascinated by one of those flames that he decided to build a worshipping temple on it.

How to get there – The temple is very close to the airport and the 184 bus passes close to it.

What to do in Baku on Day 3

Day trip to qobustan to see the petroglyphs and the mud volcanoes.

During the Stone Age, around 15,000 years ago, when the Caspian Sea waters were higher and the region was completely green and fertile, a bunch of hunters decided to settle in some caves in the area.

These caves were decorated with their own art style and more than 600 petroglyphs were drawn, many of them still being in very good conditions. Today, these paintings have become one of the best places to visit in Baku.

For more information, read my article about the petroglyphs of Qobustan (it includes prices and how to get there).

Moreover, if you are interested, you can also visit some volcanoes that expel mud , which have become a real tourist attraction. They are very close to the petroglyphs and you can only go by car.

If you want to make things easier and go with a guide, there’s this tour targeting the petroglyphs + mud volcanoes + an ancient mosque from the area. I think it’s worth it. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE TOUR

Where to eat in Baku

Here are my restaurant recommendations (all places are frequented by locals).

Budget – Xezer Restaurant – Local eatery serving traditional food.

Gourmet fast food – Gourmet Pendir & Chorek – The first national fast-food chain in Azerbaijan serves good quality local sandwiches and stuff like that.

Fine dining – Sumakh – A local fancy restaurant serving high-quality food and awesome service.

More information for visiting Baku

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

Tours – Here you can see a big bunch of tours in Baku, as well as day trips from Baku.

SIM Card – You will need one, especially to move around by Uber. I recommend Azercell. You can buy a SIM Card in many mobile stores but you should go to the official store of Azercell, as you will be charged the real price. There is a big one in Fountain Square.

All guides and articles for traveling in Azerbaijan destination

• Azerbaijan Travel Guide
• Best Hostels in Baku
• Qobustan Petroglyphs and Sovietism
• Reasons to Visit Azerbaijan
• Azerbaijan Itinerary

Check more city guides

• Tunis Travel Guide
• Asmara Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Riyadh
• Muscat Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Dubai
• Beirut Travel Guide
• Erbil Travel Guide
• Tehran Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Astana
• Tashkent Travel Guide
• Tbilisi Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Minsk
• Kiev Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Nouakchott
• A City Guide to Mosul

These were my top recommendations for what to do in Baku. If you know of any other places to visit in Baku, kindly let us know in the comments section. 

19 comments

I never went to the oil extractors and i wish i had thought about that! One thing i think you should have mentioned though is the beautiful designs of some of the metro stations 🙂

oh yes, the stations were pretty nice indeed 🙂

Hey Joan, I love this travel guide to Baku very much, very detailed, thank you 🙂 I have a question: is it safe to take photos of the petrol extractors? I mean, I am pretty sure that in some countries they would not like people to sniff around them, for several reasons. I have been living in several countries in the Arab Gulf, and I am pretty sure that you would not be allowed to take photos of them. I would not even try it! Thank you and keep up the good work!

Hey Marc, thank you for your email. You can’t really compare it to the Gulf because the Gulf petrol areas are very deep into the desert and they are in restricted areas. The ones in Baku are in the suburbs of the city, some of them located right next to houses, meaning that the area is not restricted at all. Does this mean that you can take a photo of them? Well, I don’t know, but I have been there twice and there wasn’t official surveillance at all. I only saw a few workers roaming around who didn’t really care about my presence.

I was in the oil field at Romanov, 40 minutes outside Baku a few days ago. There is surveillance and locals keeping an eye open. When we were about to leave the oil field a company car came at high speed and they men in the car screamed that taking photos was forbidden. They was quite aggressive. I had the camera under my jacket, else they probably would have demanded that I delete the photos. My Azerian father in law explained that the oil companies are concerned about making the pollution too exposed in these days of social media.

wow, thanks for sharing your experience, Michael!

Very useful information, keep up the good work ! very well done !

Hi, I am reading over and again – to prepare for our short visit coming up to Baku. Just so you know, the visa is now good for 90 days. Any thoughts on survival guide for vegetarians (no egg, fish, meat, chicken, in short no animal food of any kind) who can take milk, yoghurt?

Hi Vasu, the visa is valid for 30 days. I just re-checked the official e-visa portal and there are no changes. I think you are confused because it says that you can travel for 30 days within a 90 days period but you can’t exceed those 30 days.

I am not a vegetarian, so I can’t really give you many tips. They don’t have a very vegan cuisine but I remember that most menus had salads and some eggplant-based dishes.

I cannot see the map for places to visit in Baku.

Maybe it is a problem of your browser

Thank u very much for valuable informatin you prensent for us.Baku,s weather,s more pleasent and mild and than dubai.Baku is the capital of Azeebayjan, İt,s people are turk, it was colonized by soviet 101 years ago, but they,re not russion. Thank u every body★)

Joan – your guide has proved very useful while I have been in Baku. Just to say that Azerbaijan appear to have got on board with 2-tier foreign tourist / local prices for their main sites: Maidens Tower and The Palace now both 15 Manat to access; Fire Temple Ateshgah 4 Manat & Yanar Dag 9 Manat. The Quobastan Petroglyphs were 10 Manat – but as the museum staff picked me up in their bus to take me to the site from Baku I am quids in on that one 😀

Hey Andrew, glad you found it useful and thanks for the price updates 🙂

Hi, iam planning to travel with Family December first week,. Can you please advise us as we want to see snow filled area. Can we have one day trip from Baku to hill stations. Thank you

Hi Yes, you can go to the area around Quba

Hi Joan, thank you for the amazing work! I am flying to Azerbaijan in a few days and your guide is of great help. I wonder if you have ever visited Sumqayit polluted areas and/or poor neighborhoods (slums) in Baku? I know that “Shangai” has been demolished but I am sure there are still deprived areas of the same kind. Any idea about that?

Hi Isabelle. I did walk through some slums (by pure coincidence) when I was walking around the TV tower, very close to it, but I don’t know the name of those slums

“Wow, this guide on things to do in Baku is absolutely fantastic! I recently had the opportunity to spend 3 days in this vibrant city, and this blog provided me with an incredible list of activities and attractions to make the most of my trip. From exploring the historic Old City and its charming narrow streets to visiting the iconic Flame Towers for breathtaking panoramic views, there was never a dull moment. I especially loved indulging in the local cuisine and trying out traditional Azerbaijani dishes at the various restaurants recommended in the article. Thanks to this comprehensive guide, I had an unforgettable experience in Baku and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for an exciting destination to visit!”

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The best things to do in the beautiful Baku

Feb 6, 2022 • 5 min read

Heydar Mosque in the Binəqədi area of Baku at night © Alexander Melnikov / 500px

The capital of Azerbaijan  is a mix of the ultra-modern and the very-old, where the country's Turkish, Russian, Persian and European identities collide on every street. Here's how to explore the biggest city in the Caucasus, with experiences that will give you a feel for Baku’s awesome oddness.

See the incredible Flame Towers by day –  and night

The modern parts of Baku were built with oil money. At the start of the last decade the city went to jaw-dropping lengths to show off its astronomical wealth, and futuristic buildings now completely dominate the skyline. The symbol of Baku has become its Flame Towers  – three shimmering skyscrapers covered with LED panels that light up at dusk, transforming the towers into a flickering red and orange fire. Throughout the night the skyscrapers also morph into a waterfall, and the Azerbaijani flag. These displays are visible from everywhere in the city and gazing at the flames, especially, is a monumentally cool experience.

Try taste sensations of Azerbaijani food and wine

The pretty, pale homes of İçəri Şəhər aren’t as eccentric as the brash New City outside; but if you look close enough they are exciting in different ways. Behind many doors are secret restaurants. These are perfect places to try Azerbaijani cuisine, such as dolma (rice and other fillings wrapped in vine leaves), baliq (grilled sturgeon with a plum sauce) and qutab (savoury pancakes, sometimes stuffed with minced camel). The rooftop terraces of the Old City's Persian-style hotels, such as the decadent Sultan Inn , are also great spots to watch the sun go down with a bottle of pomegranate wine.

Explore the maze-like İçəri Şəhər, the Old City

Baku’s oldest and most mellow quarter is a maze of narrow sandstone streets known as İçəri Şəhər (Icheri Sheher, the Old City). From the 12th century this place was the centre of the Shirvanshah dynasty, which ruled over what is now Azerbaijan until 1539. Today about 3000 people still live within these stone walls, and work in İçəri Şəhər's art galleries, cafes and bath-houses. These Turkish-style hammams open from very early until very late, with separate opening hours for men and women.

Enjoy the views from Qız Qalası, Maiden's Tower

One of the oldest buildings in the Old City is Qız Qalası, known in English as the Maiden’s Tower . This Unesco-listed tower is not much to look at, but the stubby stone fortress is the setting for dozens of Azerbaijani myths and legends – and from the top there are clear views out over the Caspian Sea. Despite its name, the Caspian is actually a vast lake, which explains how Baku can still be so far below sea level. It is the world’s lowest capital city.

Stroll up to the Palace of the Shirvanshahs

Climbing the sandstone streets, past walls decorated with characterful ceramics and existentialist graffiti, you reach the highest part of the Old City, and the second Unesco-listed building in İçəri Şəhər: the 15th-century Palace of the Shirvanshahs . The palace is now home to a museum of Azerbaijani history – its beautiful stone chambers now have cool multisensory installations inside. The palace's courtyards are also some of the best places for night-time views of the Flame Towers.

Honor Azerbaijan's fallen at Şəhidlər Xiyabanı ( Shehidler Hiyabani)  cemetery 

At the top of the steep hill in the New City that takes you to the Flame Towers, Şəhidlər Xiyabanı (Shehidler Hiyabani) is a cemetery and memorial to the first Azerbaijani soldiers who were killed during the Karabakh conflict in the 1990s. In this complex there is also a memorial to the Turkish soldiers who died during WWI, and a mosque that was donated to Baku by Turkey – both signs of how closely the two countries are linked.

Admire Heydar Aliyev Centre designed by  Zaha Hadid 

Taking pride of place in the centre of the city, Baku’s other out-of-this-world piece of architecture is the curvaceous and brilliant-white Heydar Aliyev Centre . This exhibition space and concert venue, designed by architect Zaha Hadid, seems to change shape as you walk around it; the idea was to symbolise the fluidity and romance of modern Azerbaijan. 

Marvel at the contradictions of modern Azerbaijan 

Perhaps Baku’s biggest contradiction is that, as you stare at its futuristic landmarks, you are really looking into its past as well. Azerbaijan fell into an economic crisis soon after the Flame Towers, Heydar Aliyev Centre and the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum  (shaped like a giant rolled-up carpet and displaying the country's largest collection of them) were completed, which put a stop to the outlandish new buildings.

The country is still astoundingly wealthy – the annual Formula 1 Azerbaijan Grand Prix isn’t the only time of year when the streets are filled with expensive sports cars – but Baku is beginning to go mainstream as well. While a few years ago Baku was all about dazzling visitors with its originality, now in its new venues, like Park Bulvar Mall , you could be almost anywhere in the world. Its central pedestrian zones, Fountains Square and the nearby Nizami St, are filling up with European stores and brunch-spots.

Catch up on Baku's past at the Historical Museum

The Old City isn’t the only place to explore Baku’s past. The Historical Museum is worth a visit to learn about the other eras from Azerbaijan’s history, from the medieval Shirvanshahs, to centuries as part of Iran and the Russian Empire, and then its life as a Soviet Republic. The museum is housed in an opulent mansion that belonged to one of Baku’s greatest late-19th-century oil barons, which is worth visiting just for its dazzling interiors.

You might also like: Baku for architecture buffs: the ultimate self-guided tour    8 stunning European cities for architecture    This ultra-marathon showcases the splendors of the Nagorno-Karabakh

This article was first published Mar 25, 2020 and updated Feb 6, 2022.

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Plan Your Trip to Baku: Best of Baku Tourism

Explore Baku

Essential baku.

Trending in the forums

Baku Is Great For

Cultural tours.

Historical Tours

The great outdoors

Archaeology Tours

Eat & drink

• Fairmont Baku Flame Towers
• Mövenpick Winter Park Baku
• The Merchant Baku
• Baku Marriott Hotel Boulevard
• Courtyard by Marriott Baku
• SAHiL bar & restaurant
• White City Restaurant & Bar
• Malacannes 145
• Art Club Restaurant
• Cay Bagi 145 (Tea Garden 145)
• Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center
• Baku Old City
• Highland Park
• Flame Towers
• Little Venice
• Full Day Sightseeing Tour of the main Attractions around Baku
• Shamakhi And Gabala Tour (All Entrance Fees And Lunch Included)
• Guba and Khinaliq trip with HOMEMADE lunch (Group or Private)
• Gobustan & Absheron Tour All Entrance Fees included (Group or Private)
• Sheki - Full Day Tour to Four Regions of Azerbaijan

What’s it REALLY like to travel to Baku, Azerbaijan?

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When I think back to my travels in Baku, Azerbaijan, one anecdote comes to mind. I’m driving through the highway as we speed past modern, silver buildings interspersed with sand-colored mosques and souks, set back against the arid landscape. My guide points out a cluster of buildings on one side of the highway.

“See those buildings?” he tells me. “Our journalists live there. They get to live there for free.”

I smile weakly and say, “Oh. For free. Cool.” Inside, I’m thinking, really? In exchange for what?

That’s what it’s like to grow up in a country without freedom of the press. Journalists living in government-provided housing is seen as something to extol to international visitors, rather than something that should be kept under wraps.

That’s not to say that Azerbaijan is horrifying. Far from it. I found Baku to be an intriguing destination, quite often perplexing, and well worth a three-day visit with my boyfriend before traveling on to Georgia and Armenia.

Table of Contents

Azerbaijan: A Modern Land of Fire

Azerbaijan is known as the Land of Fire — this is a country where flames can and do burst out of the earth in unexpected places. There are places close to Baku where you can see eternal flames billowing out of the ground, or even from the water. And the reserves of natural gas cause unusual geological effects, like bubbling mud volcanoes.

And sitting in the middle of that fiery desert, on the banks of an inland sea, is one of the world’s most prolific collections of modern architecture. The most famous of which are three modern towers shaped like flames, lighting up with even more flames at night.

If you mention modern architecture set against a desert, where do you think of first? Dubai, maybe, or Doha, Qatar? I got a similar vibe from Baku. Azerbaijan is rich with oil money, thanks to its location next to the Caspian Sea, which had led to insane levels of recent development.

While Dubai and Doha have their share of modern buildings, Baku sprawls like neither city. As you’re driving around Baku, it seems borderline uncanny that you can cruise over so many hills and still see all kinds of modern, interesting buildings.

Within this unusual setting, there are a lot of cool places in Baku to explore and enjoy.

Best Things to Do in Baku

The good thing about visiting a city like Baku is that there isn’t an established tourist trail — you don’t need to hop from sight to sight.

Have dinner overlooking the Flame Towers. On a whim, I ended up at Panoramic Restaurant . While most of the windows face away from the Flame Towers, there is a tiny outdoor patio with only three tables that has a view of the Flame Towers! Do what I did — go early in the day to check it out, then make a reservation for that exact table for sunset that evening.

Explore the old city of Baku. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a place where the architecture differs enormously from the rest of the modern city. The old city dates back to the 6th century and it gives you an idea of the incredible cultural history in this region from Zoroastrian, Sasanian, Arabic, Shirvani, Persian, Ottoman, and Russian cultures. The Maiden Tower is a great spot for a view of the Flame Towers. And just outside the old city is the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum.

Visit the markets. What struck me about Baku’s markets is how immaculate they are. I’m used to seeing piles of produce flung in every direction; it seems like Azerbaijanis make every effort to shape their produce into the most aesthetically pleasing piles. The conical shapes on the mango slices and dried flowers are perfect.

It extends to larger fruits, too. Apples were stacked in clean straight lines; perfect green watermelons made up the perimeter. One table even grouped tomatoes not just by type but by size, arranging them into perfect mounds!

Normally I’m a bit uneasy at markets because I feel guilty when I don’t buy anything, but I felt more relaxed here. That and men kept giving me macadamia nuts to sample — the best macadamia nuts I’ve ever tasted. (Did I buy any? Nope. Macadamias are one food that I avoid because if I have one, I’ll have a million.)

Check out Heydar Aliyev Center.  In a city filled with modern architecture, this is one of the most famous buildings of all (and a symbol of Azerbaijan, named after its most beloved leader). The building contains a museum and conference center with rotating exhibitions. But even if you don’t go inside, it’s worth it, because it’s in the middle of a giant park, which becomes a place to see and be seen at sunset.

This is easily the best Instagram spot in Baku. I recommend coming around sunrise or sunset for the best light.

Enjoy the cafe scene. While the old city was surprisingly more dead than I expected, I loved the neighborhood just east. This area was filled with all kinds of interesting cafes and restaurants, and I loved walking around and exploring.

Spend an evening down by the Caspian Sea. I was a bit surprised that there was so little seafood on the menus in Baku, despite being located on the sea. But there is one place where seafood is the star: Derya Fish House .

Once you step out of your cab, you arrive to a windy waterfront filled with locals celebrating the end of the day. Oh, and it’s cheap! The two of us had a whole fish, bread, a bowl of olives, eggplant caviar, lemons, pickled vegetables, cheese, and pomegranate sauce on the side for just $18.

Best Day Trips from Baku

The best day trip from Baku is its most famous day trip — to Qobustan to see the mud volcanoes and petroglyphs.  Qobustan National Park (sometimes written as Gobustan) is just under an hour’s drive from Baku.

Qobustan is known for its mud volcanoes. To get to them requires an off-roading vehicle. When my car pulled to the side of the road, I assumed we’d be getting into some kind of jeep — but was I ever surprised when we got into a tiny Soviet-era Lada! It didn’t look like it would last a day in the desert, let alone go off-roading to mud volcanoes!

And soon we reached the mud volcanoes.

The gurgling is a lot slower than I thought it would be — just a constant, slow BLURP! BLURP! every few moments. Like the volcano had eaten a lot of beans that day.

The landscape is beautiful and dramatic — but that wasn’t all we’d see.

Next up in Qobustan was the petroglyphs — ancient rock art. I’ve seen ancient rock art in other parts of the world, like Kakadu National Park in Australia , but this rock art is uniquely impressive. You see people dancing, people hunting, petroglyphs of animals. It has survived remarkably well, and this is why Qobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Seeing Qobustan was one of the highlights of my time in Azerbaijan, and I feel like you can’t go to Baku without making a stop here.  See tours to see Qobustan’s mud volcanoes and petroglyphs.

The other half of my day was spent touring the famous sites on the opposite side of Baku. Here you’ll find two more attractions that prove that Azerbaijan is the land of fire: Ateshgah, the Zoroastrian fire temple, and Yanar Dag, where the fire bursts from the earth.

Ateshgah is a temple on the outskirts of Baku. It was built in the 17th and 18th centuries, though ceremonies have taken place on the same site as early as the 10th century, and it has been a center of worship for Zoroastrians, Sikhs, and Hindus. The flame inside the temple is naturally occurring, but it actually went out in 1969 due to environmental destruction. The fire today is lit by Baku’s main gas supply.

At Yanar Dag, you can see a steady fire burning from the bottom of the hill. Fed by natural gas, this is another fire that never extinguishes. It was so toasty down by the fire — I have never wanted to have a stick and a bag of marshmallows so much in my life! (And let’s not kid ourselves, a bag of graham crackers and chocolate waiting by the table.)

Ateshgah and Yanar Dag are two places that show you how interesting of a natural environment Azerbaijan is. See tours to Ateshgah and Yanar Dag here.

Azerbaijan Food

What kind of food will you be eating in Azerbaijan? Delicious food. Surprisingly good food. The dishes I ate were most similar to Turkish cuisine, fresh and flavorful. While there were some similarities to their Georgian and Armenian neighbors, Azerbaijani food is very much its own thing. I was only in the country for a few days, so this is by no means an exhaustive guide, but it contains several of my top hits.

I ate a lot of dolma — vegetables stuffed with a mixture of rice and meat. While “dolma” can mean stuffed grape leaves or cabbage leaves in other cultures, in Azerbaijan it can mean any kind of stuffed vegetable.

Also popular are kebabs of all kinds, and plov, roasted rice and meat dishes.

Eggplant dip was everywhere — made from roasted eggplant, peppers, and onions and mixed with a variety of herbs and spices. This was the perfect start to a meal. You eat it with bread.

My absolute favorite dish was at Panoramic Restaurant in the Old City — I can’t remember the name and REALLY should have written it down, but it was a skillet filled with chicken, cherries, potatoes, and chestnuts. It sounds like a winter dish but it was solely on a hot summer night.

While you don’t see a ton of fish on the menus in Azerbaijan, you will down at restaurants on the Caspian Sea like Derya Fish House . I recommend ordering a grilled white fish with pomegranate sauce on the side — it brings the same kind of acidity that you get from lemons.

As for Azerbaijani wine, it does exist and it’s worth sampling, but it’s nothing to write home about. Georgia and Armenia have much better wine.

Azerbaijanis love sweets and pastries, and I tried a few different kinds of baklava — one made with walnuts, one made with almonds, one made with hazelnuts. I honestly think walnuts are king — they need that slightly bitter flavor to cut the sweetness. Hazelnut baklava was dangerously sweet!

And Azerbaijanis are crazy about tea. Tea breaks are important punctuation marks of the day. You can sweeten tea with jam, and they serve it with small pastries.

This is just a sample of the delicious food I ate in Azerbaijan.

Want to learn more about Azeri cuisine?

Go on a food tour in baku..

Travel Azerbaijan with JayWay Travel

On this trip I traveled as a hosted guest of JayWay Travel , a boutique travel agency specializing in Eastern and Central Europe.  I’ve worked with JayWay Travel in Ukraine in the past and they do such a good job putting together bespoke itineraries where you don’t have to worry about a thing. JayWay recently added Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia as new destinations where they have local experts.

For my three-day trip to Baku, that meant pick-ups and drop-offs at the airport; a full-day private tour to Qobustan and the fire region, including a stop at a market; a local SIM card, and support throughout the trip. That was perfect for me — I knew my first day would be spent napping and taking it easy due to the weirdly timed flight (see more on that below), and I liked getting to do my own exploring on the final day.

As I always say, if you’re an experienced traveler, you don’t need JayWay in order to travel. But JayWay is perfect for your parents, older travelers, less experienced travelers, and experienced travelers who want someone else to plan their trip for a change. It’s an enormous time-saver when you’re busy, too.

The Caucasus is a fantastic travel destination, but it’s not nearly as easy to travel as Europe. Azerbaijan is a country just waking up to tourism, and they don’t have the established tourism infrastructure of other countries. It’s a good place to have a helping hand.

Learn more about JayWay’s Azerbaijan trips here.

Where to Stay in Baku

Most of the time when I visit a new city, I stay in the old town or old city because it’s usually the prettiest, most central part of town.  Baku’s old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which made it seem like a slam dunk, and so I stayed at a hotel in the old city, the Deniz Inn Boutique Hotel.

While I had a good stay there, I actually don’t recommend staying in the old city of Baku. It’s beautiful but it’s mostly inaccessible to cars (to get an Uber or taxi, you need to walk a distance outside the old city); you are constantly going up and down stairs; there are lots of aggressive touts around the Maiden Tower; there aren’t as many cafes and restaurants as you would think. If you have mobility challenges, you should absolutely avoid staying in the old city.

If you do want to stay in the old city, the Deniz Inn Boutique Hotel is a nice midrange choice. It’s comfortable, the internet works well, it’s not too deep into the old city, and the staff are great. And the best thing about this hotel is that it has an Illy cafe in the lobby. Reliable quality coffee isn’t always easy to find!

So which Baku neighborhood is best? I recommend staying in a hotel just east of the old city. This area is home to lots of cool restaurants, cafes, parks, and nightlife. And because it’s part of the main city, cars can drive the streets and you can hail Ubers close to your hotel. Most of it is flat, though there are some steeper parts.

Recommended Baku Accommodation:

• Luxury: JW Marriott Absheron Baku
• Midrange: Passage Boutique Hotel
• Budget: Renaissance Palace Hotel
• Find deals on more Baku hotels here.

Azerbaijan Visa

Azerbaijan requires a visa for most visitors. In the past it was difficult and expensive for most westerners to get an Azerbaijan visa for longer than a few days. Now it’s MUCH easier and cheaper — you can get an e-visa online for just $20! See the full list of nationalities eligible for the e-visa here.

You order the visa online, it takes around three days to process, and you print it out and bring it to immigration with your passport. Don’t keep it on your phone; bring an actual printed copy.

Order your visa directly from evisa.gov.az . NOTE: THIS IS THE CORRECT SITE; DO NOT BE FOOLED BY IMPOSTERS! There are many third party visa sites that mimic the layout of this site, then try to charge you $50 for the same exact thing. I almost got fooled by one of those sites.

Flying to Baku with Azerbaijan Airlines

I flew nonstop from New York to Baku on Azerbaijan Airlines.  This is the one direct flight from the United States to Azerbaijan. The flight takes 11 hours and currently flies twice per week.

While it’s awesome to fly nonstop, the flight leaves at an awkward time: it departs New York at 11:30 AM and arrives in Baku at 6:30 AM, which is 10:30 PM New York time. As a result, you probably won’t be able to sleep much if at all, and you’ll likely spend your first day in Baku in a jet-lagged stupor. Plan a low-key day for your arrival if you take this flight.

I was lucky to fly in Azerbaijan Airlines’s Comfort Club, as someone special upgraded me for my birthday. Comfort Club is like the stop between premium economy and business class.

You get comfier seats and a TON more space (the seats go much further back but don’t lie flat), you’re served multiple courses for meals, and you get lounge access at the airport (in my case, the cheese-and-champagne-filled Air France lounge at JFK). I was able to stick my feet straight out without touching the seat in front of me (I’m 5’4″). I didn’t get into the entertainment but there was a decent selection of movies. For an 11-hour flight where I knew I wouldn’t be able to sleep much, I was so glad to have this level of service!

If you’re coming from the US on another line, you can get connections on Turkish Airlines and Lufthansa. Azerbaijan Airlines flies to cities including Tbilisi, Tel Aviv, Paris, London, Dubai, and several Turkish and Russian destinations.

Travel to Azerbaijan BEFORE Armenia

If you’re planning to travel throughout the Caucasus, you should try to travel to Azerbaijan before Armenia. It will make your life much easier.

Azerbaijan and Armenia don’t have diplomatic relations, and all borders are closed. Armenians are not allowed to enter. (While Armenia doesn’t have diplomatic relations or border crossings with Turkey, Armenians are allowed to travel to Turkey anyway, so Azerbaijan is much stricter.)

When I arrived in Azerbaijan, I was asked if I had ever traveled to Armenia. I said no, and there was no evidence of Armenia in my passport. But I do know people who have been interrogated heavily for traveling to Armenia previously, regardless of their nationality.

If you have visited the region of Nagorno-Karabakh, which is Azerbaijani land currently occupied by Armenia, you will automatically be rejected. (They also ask you if you’ve traveled to Nagorno-Karabakh when you apply for your visa, which will also earn you a rejection if your answer is yes.)

However, Armenian immigration officials are more forgiving. They do ask you if you visited Azerbaijan and why, but if you only visited as a tourist, they don’t care and they let you in without any problems. This is why I recommend visiting Azerbaijan first and Armenia second. (It’s best to go via Georgia, either by land or by plane.)

Unfortunately, ethnic Armenians of different nationalities (whether they’re American, Russian, French, Lebanese, Argentine, or something else) are often rejected at the border based on their last name. From what I’ve researched, it seems to come down to the mood of the immigration officer, and I’ve heard that some people try to convince the immigration officials that their last name is Persian.

If you’re an ethnic Armenian who wants to travel to Azerbaijan, or a person whose last name ends in -ian or -yan, I recommend you do more research. This is beyond my pay grade.

Traveling to Baku: The Takeaway

I’m very happy that I got to travel to Baku — but I think this is a one-and-done trip. Which is fine! Not every destination has to be an “I can’t wait to go back” destination. I’m so glad that I visited and had the experience this interesting city had to offer.

Looking back at my two-week trip to the Caucasus, I think that starting with Baku was a good idea. I was able to take advantage of the only nonstop flight to the Caucasus from New York, and then I moved on to Georgia and Armenia, which were both more impressive. I wouldn’t have done it any differently.

Chisinau and Minsk: Two Offbeat Soviet Cities

Essential Info:  My trip in Baku was entirely organized by JayWay Travel , a travel company that organizes custom private tours in Central and Eastern Europe. They organize everything as soon as your feet touch the ground in your country, from flights and tours to airport pickups and a cell phone or SIM card. JayWay recently added Azerbaijan as one of their new specialties, along with Georgia and Armenia. In Baku I stayed at the  Deniz Inn Boutique Hotel . Rates from $56. When using Uber to get around Baku, be sure you check the license plate — some drivers here operate with a different car than the account they claim to have. Never get in a car unless they match. Travel insurance is essential before every trip — in case of an emergency, it could save your life and finances. I use and recommend  World Nomads  for trips to Azerbaijan.

Many thanks to JayWay Travel for hosting me on my Caucasus trip, including covering my expenses in Azerbaijan. All opinions, as always, are my own.

Have you traveled to Azerbaijan? What did you think?

Baku Itinerary: How to Spend Perfect 2 Days in Baku

Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links to the products we earnestly love and recommend, meaning at no extra cost to you, we might make a teeny-weeny commission if you click on the link and decide to buy something. The money will be used to sustain this little cozy blog we call our virtual home.

If you are here, you must be planning to spend 2 days in Baku and looking for an itinerary that lets you make the most of your time in the dynamic and stunning capital of Azerbaijan. Qədəmin mübarək olsun! I’m quite confident, this two-day Baku itinerary will meet your expectations.

I’ve crafted this itinerary in a way that it covers almost all the must-see sights in Baku city, including the beautiful Old City aka Icheri Sheher, the iconic Flame Towers, and the unique Heydar Aliyev Center. I also recommend some great places to eat and stay, so you can experience the best of Azerbaijani cuisine and hospitality and share helpful tips, so you can plan a perfect and memorable trip.

Visiting Baku for Two Days: A Perfect Baku Itinerary

A city where old and new weave seamlessly into a captivating tapestry of ancient traditions and futuristic innovations, Baku is full of intriguing history, culture, art, architecture, and gastronomical adventures.

Located on the shore of the Caspian Sea, the city is loaded with innovative architecture and well-heeled infrastructure, thanks to its rich oil and natural gas reserves.

With a plethora of cool places to explore and enjoy, you are going to have an amazing time in Baku. Are you ready to uncover Baku, one of the most intriguing hidden gems in Europe ?

Day 0: Arrival in Baku

Board a shuttle or hire a Bolt from the  Heydar Aliyev International Airport  to the city center.

Make sure you book a hotel that’s right in the heart of the city so you stay close to where the action is. It saves you from the extra work of figuring out public transportation and makes getting around the city super convenient.

Depending upon when you arrive in Baku, you can plan your day accordingly. We arrived around 2 pm and had almost half a day at our disposal. We checked into our hotel on Nizami Street , freshened up, had a refreshing cup of coffee and snacks, and napped.

Well-rested, we head out in the evening to join a 3-hour guided night city tour where our local guide made us see and feel the magic of Baku at night. With brightly lit-up monuments, the city really comes alive as the sun goes down.

Day 1: Explore Baku’s Old City

On your first day in Baku, explore the UNESCO-listed Old City, Icherisheher aka inner city . With charming cobbled streets lined with medieval architecture, It’s the heart and soul of Baku. There’s no better place to soak in the city’s rich culture & history.

It’s recommended to take a free walking tour or a private walking tour to learn more about the city’s rich history and culture. However, if you want to explore on your own, here’s a route to follow.

Enter the Old City via historic Gosha Gala Gapisi (Double Gates) and start with Maiden Tower (Qiz Qalasi), the mysterious and iconic ancient tower that’s considered the oldest structure in Baku. It’s the much-loved symbol of the city that has inspired quite a few Azeri folktales and even appears on the Azerbaijani national currency, the manat. For an entrance fee, you can see the museum inside the tower and climb to the top to enjoy the panoramic views of the city and the bay.

Next, head to the Palace of the Shirvanshahs , a 15th-century palace that served as the residence of the Shirvanshahs. The main building of the palace is turned into a museum now that displays a collection of historical artifacts. Other notable structures inside the complex are a Divankahana, a mausoleum, tombs, mosques, and a bathhouse.

If you are a museum and a book lover, walk a few steps from the palace to visit the Museum of Miniature Books , Zarifa Salahova’s treasure trove of hundreds of thousands of miniature edition books in different languages from almost all countries around the world. Entry is free.

While you stroll the narrow winding streets of the Old City, make it a point to stop by Muhammad Mosque, Juma Mosque, and Bazaar Square, and shop for traditional souvenirs.

Also, capture the different perspectives of the iconic Flame Towers from varied spots in the Old City.

As you stroll the charming streets of Baku Old City, you’ll come across a score of colorful photography spots.

And colorful doors and windows, and unique sights!

Afterward, relish traditional Azerbaijani lunch at Mugam Club or Karvansaray Restaurant, or Sehrli Təndir. Located inside old Han or caravanserai, all these restaurants offer a historical vibe. You must try local specialties such as dolma (stuffed grape leaves), plov (flavorful rice dish), and succulent kebabs.

After lunch, head to Nizami Street , the main shopping street in Baku. Lined with shops, cafes, restaurants, some architectural gems, and the famous Fountain Sqaure, it’s utterly atmospheric and is a great place to enjoy a cup of coffee, grab a bite, or indulge in window shopping.

After a day’s sightseeing, it’s time to relax and enjoy the beautiful sunset and then the vibrant nightlife of Baku.

Walk down to the Bulvar (Baku Boulevard) to catch the beautiful sight of Baku bathed in sunset colors and enjoy a stroll along the picturesque waterfront promenade along the Caspian Sea and feel the wind in the hair while relishing the views of Baku’s modern skyline.

Flame Towers , the hero of the city’s skyline comes alive at night with a mesmerizing light show. Bulvar is also home to a range of cafes, restaurants, and attractions like Baku Eye (the Ferris Wheel), and the National Flag Square . The area around the boulevard is bustling with activity at night, making it a great place to soak up the city’s energy.

Complete your day with a dinner at Sky Grill , an outdoor terrace restaurant by Hilton located on the 24th floor that boasts a breathtaking nighttime view of the city. You can enjoy the drinks at their signature revolving rooftop bar on the 25th floor, 360 Bar .

Day 2: Explore the Modern Side of Baku

Begin your second day by getting up close with the Flame Towers , the iconic trio of skyscrapers you’ve been watching from every corner of Baku.

Just across the towers is Upland Park aka Highland Park , a beautiful urban park that’s home to exciting sights like a Turkish mosque, an eye-catching fountain waterfall, Martyrs’ Lane or Alley of Honor , and the Eternal Flame Monument . You can climb the stone steps or take a funicular to the top of the park to enjoy the bird’s eye view of the city and its bay.

Next, head to the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum , a gold mine of the carpet-weaving history of Azerbaijan. You can admire the intricate designs that include traditional as well as modern and learn about ancient weaving techniques. Visit the museum’s official website for information on entry tickets and opening hours.

Once out of the museum, stroll the beautiful Mini-Venice . You can ride a gondola here. Cross the Denizkenari Milli Park and walk down to Nizami Street to enjoy another round of traditional Azeri lunch at Dolma or Firuze.

After lunch, drive to the Heydar Aliyev Center , a masterpiece of modern architecture in Baku by the legendary architect, Zaha Hadid . Marvel at its exquisite fluid curves and innovative design and walk around the museum to learn about the contemporary art and culture of Azerbaijan.

If time permits, drive a bit further to Heydar Mosque , the largest mosque in the Caucasus. It looks gorgeous. You wouldn’t see many tourists here as it’s not open to the public.

Come back to Baku Old City and enjoy a traditional cup of tea and experience the tea culture of Azerbaijan at Çay Bağı 145. Coffee lovers interested in witnessing the coffee culture of Aaerbaijan can choose to sit at Coffee Moffie or Old School.

Refreshed and rejuvenated, take a moment to capture the beauty of Baku at night. Stroll the beautifully lit streets of the Old City, stopping by wherever your heart desires, and trying local sweets like pakhlava, shekerbura, and goghal at one of the many sweet shops.

Trip to Baku: How to Plan

Best time to visit baku.

While April to October is considered the best time to visit Baku, the end of March (average high of 13°C or 55°F and average low of 5°C or 41°F), April (average high of 16°C or 60°F and average low of 8°C or 46°F), and October (average high of 19°C or 66°F and average low of 12°C or 53°F) are the perfect months to be there. These months offer pleasant weather, fewer crowds, lower prices, and of course, a beautiful opportunity to enjoy the city and its attractions with ease, without hoards of tourists.

The end of March is particularly good for culture lovers as it’s when Azerbaijan celebrates its major festival of Novruz , the Persian New Year.

Getting to Baku

Served by Heydar Aliyev International Airport (GYD), Baku is well-connected to major international cities with more than 40 direct flights from various cities across Europe, Asia, Africa, and the Middle East.

Azerbaijan Airlines remains the major air carrier.

If you are coming from the neighboring countries, there are regular trains and buses to Baku from Moscow, Tbilisi, Istanbul, and Tehran. You can also plan a road trip from these cities, but make sure you familiarize yourself with border entry requirements, driving permits, and road regulations.

How to Get From the Airport to Baku City Centre

The International airport is located about 24 km from the city center and takes somewhere around 30 minutes to cover the distance.

Aero Express , the official airport shuttle runs every 30 minutes from the airport to the city center and vice versa. It stops at Surakhani Bridge, Koroglu metro station, and 28 May Metro Station or Central Railway station and costs AZN 1,30 to 1,50. To use the services, you need to buy BakuKart , the city’s public transport card at the BakuKart kiosk, and be aware, the kiosk accepts only Azerbaijani manat. Find more information at www.aeroexpress.az .

Hiring an official taxi or Uber or Bolt is also a good option if you seek comfort and ease. Bolt or Uber costs a little less than an official taxi.

For a stress-free and safe transfer, I usually recommend booking a private airport transfer . As a family traveler, I prefer this option while traveling to foreign countries as it’s comfortable and much safer when traveling with kids.

Getting Around Baku

The Old City, the Bulvar, and its attractions are best explored on foot, however, for attractions like Heydar Aliyev Center, you’d need transport.

For that, you can hire a taxi (choose Uber or Bolt always) or board a Metro (you need a BakuCard).

If you don’t want to worry about transportation, the best way is to take a guided tour around the city. Get Your Guide and Viator offers a range of paid guided tours in Baku, like and Civitatis offers free walking tours. The tours take away the hassle of transportation as well as give you a chance to know more about the history and culture of the place.

If you are planning to take a day trip or two from Baku, it’s best to rent a car or hire a chauffeur-driven car or book a guided tour.

We hired a local car with a driver and thus, traveling around Baku or to other places in Azerbaijan was a breeze. I strongly recommend hiring a chauffeur-driven car if you are traveling with kids. It’s quite affordable and comfortable for families.

How to Stay Connected in Baku

It’s vital to stay connected while in a foreign country. The roaming packages cost a fortune, so I use and recommend getting a local sim card wherever I travel.

You’ve two options – you can buy an e-sim card ( if your mobile phone supports it) from Airalo before even you land at your travel destination or reach the destination and buy a tourist sim card from the local mobile network operators.

For Baku, Azercell , Bakcell , and Nar are the most famous mobile service providers, with Azercell being the best in terms of network and coverage. You can compare the tourist sim packages to choose the one that fits your bill. I purchased the one with 2 GB of data for 7 days in Azerbaijan . It cost me AZN 10 ($5.88).

Where to Stay in Baku

There’s a mind-boggling range of accommodations, including luxury hotels in the city center or boutique guesthouses in the Old City, Icherisheher. I highly recommend choosing accommodation located inside the fortress walls or close to the Old City.

OVERALL BEST : Royal Antique Boutique Hotel (⭐ 9.5) Located inside the Old City, 400 meters from the Palace of The Shirvanshahs, this atmospheric hotel offers comfy and clean rooms, a rooftop terrace, a restaurant, and a bar. A continental breakfast comes included. Travelers rave about it saying it feels like a home away from home.

TOP BUDGET HOTEL: Renaissance Boutique (⭐ 8.4) This hotel is a few minutes walk from the Old City and offers comfy, clean, and spacious rooms. Some rooms come equipped with a balcony while those that don’t afford windows with city views. The hotel has a terrace, a restaurant, and a bar.

TOP MID-RANGE HOTEL: Art Club (⭐ 9.3) Located close to the Old City, the Art Club features a shared lounge, terrace, restaurant, and bar. Rooms are cozy, clean, and comfortable. The staff is super professional, friendly, and helpful. Their suites with a terrace are the best! With the affordable prices, it’s definitely the best value for your money.

TOP LUXURY HOTEL: Four Seasons Hotel Baku (⭐ 9.3) Strategically located right next to the Old City, this 5-star hotel overlooks the Caspian Sea and Baku Old Town. Most of the rooms and suites afford the panoramic views over the sea and the old city. They also feature an indoor swimming pool, a spa, and a wellness center in addition to a sauna and hammam, and a fitness center.

TOP LEVEL TRAVEL SUSTAINABLE HOTEL: Hilton Baku (⭐ 8.7) Less than 10 minutes walk from the Old City, this 5-star seafront hotel features a terrace restaurant with a view, a famous revolving rooftop bar, & a tea lounge. All the rooms offer awesome views of the city and the sea. Most importantly, the hotel is committed to sustainability and has been certified as Travel Sustainable Level 3+ property.

TOP APARTMENT: Luxary Home Zafro Palace (⭐ 10) Located in the Yasamal district, this beautiful and ultra-spacious 3-bedroom luxury apartment is perfect for big families. It comes with a living room, a fully equipped kitchen, ensuite bathrooms, and a balcony with mesmerizing city view. To safeguard your privacy, the accommodation has a private entrance and soundproofing.

What and Where to Eat & Drink in Baku

When in Baku, you can’t miss out on a diverse range of traditional Azerbaijani flavors. Baku is a haven for non-vegetarians like my husband and daughter. If you are a vegetarian like me, always ask for vegetarian-friendly options before dining in because some restaurants don’t serve vegetarian food at all.

Here are some must-try local dishes and recommended dining spots in Baku:

Shakh plov or shah pilaf , a classic rice dish typically made with saffron, tender lamb or chicken, aromatic spices, and loaded with dried apricots, plums, chestnuts, and raisins is a must-try in Baku. The vegetarian version is also available. The best restaurants to try this dish are Shirvanshah Museum Restaurant and Sahil Restaurant.

Indulge in one of the most popular Azeri dishes, Dolma (yarpaq dolmasi) wherein grape leaves are stuffed with a savory mixture of rice, minced meat, onions, and herbs. In a vegetarian version, badimjan dolmasi, eggplants are stuffed with a mixture of herbs and spices. The best restaurants to try are Mugam Club and Dolma.

Don’t miss out on trying kebabs. Grilled to perfection, these skewered meat delights come in various options like lamb, beef, chicken, or fish. The most common varieties are lyulya kebab , shashlik , baliq kebab , and toyuq kebab . The best restaurants to try a kebab platter include Karvansaray Restaurant and Sumakh.

Sample lavash , a traditional thin unleavened flatbread baked in tandir, a traditional stone oven. It’s claimed to be Armenian in origin, however, is prepared in Azerbaijan, Iran, and Türkiye. Almost all the restaurants serve lavash in Baku.

Relish Qutub , a paper-thin flatbread, filled with meat or greens, folded, and baked in saj, a traditional Azerbaijani frying pan. You can try this famous snack at Sumakh, Sahil, Nergiz, and Sehrli Tandir.

Try Buglama , a stew wherein lamb or mutton pieces are steamed with onions, tomatoes, peppers, herbs, and spices at Sehrli Tandir.

Levengi is a traditional dish of chicken, fish, or eggplant stuffed with walnuts, onions, and raisins, and flavored with albukhara and alcha seasonings. You can relish this traditional dish at Sehrli Tandir.

Dovga , a yogurt-based soup peppered with fresh herbs like dill, leek, mint, and coriander is a must-try at Mugam Club. It’s served hot or cold, depending on the season.

Savor Pakhlava , a delicious layered pastry dessert prepared with filo pastry, filled with chopped nuts, and sweetened with syrup or honey at Rəmzioğlu Paxlava or Sheki Sweet Home.

Shekarbura is another sweet and delicate crescent-shaped Azeri pastry filled with sugar and nuts such as almonds, walnuts, and hazelnuts. You can try this mouth-watering dessert at Rəmzioğlu Paxlava or Sheki Sweet Home or Shirvanshah Museum Restaurant.

How about tasting local wine ? Bayan Shira and Sadaf (white), and Madrasa (red) are the most popular Azeri wines. The good places to try Azerbaijani wines are Room Fine Art Wine & Dine and KEFLI Local Wine & Snacks. If you are a wine aficionado, joining a wine crawl walking tour lets you explore the best wine bars in Baku with a local guide.

Another unusual yet tasty treat to try is a combo of Tea and Jam ! Tea is vital to Azerbaijan culture, much like in India. Traditionally, chai is served with jam. The jams, mostly, contain whole fruit such as cherries, plums, berries, pears, apples, pumpkin, watermelon, pineapple guava, or dry fruits like walnuts. The best place to experience the Azeri ritual of chai and jam is Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse.

And gulp down a glass or two of Ayran , a chilled salty yogurt drink, especially if you are traveling during summer. You can find it at most supermarkets easily.

Helpful Tips

Here are a few things you should keep in my while exploring Baku!

• Azeris are friendly and helpful, however, most of them don’t understand English, so keep the Google Translate app handy all the time. It’s a lifesaver! Also, knowing a few basic phrases in Azerbaijani can greatly enhance your travel experience.
• Use Bolt or book a private transfer from the airport to avoid inconvenience and a taxi scam.
• Baku is a walkable city and thus, packing a pair of sturdy and comfy shoes is a must!
• It’s best to exchange currency in the center of the city than the airport.

Alternative Baku Itineraries

If you have more than 2 days in Baku, here are suggestions to help you craft an itinerary accordingly:

3 Days in Baku Itinerary

Day 1: Explore Baku City Day 2: Explore Baku City Day 3: Day Trip to Gobustan or Ateshgah and Yanardag or maybe a guided day tour of all three attractions

4 Days in Baku Itinerary

Day 1: Explore Baku City Day 2: Explore Baku City Day 3: Day Trip to Ateshgah and Yanardag Day 4: Day Trip to Gobustan, Bibi-Heybat Mosque, and Shebeke Beach

5 Days in Baku Itinerary

Day 1: Explore Baku City Day 2: Explore Baku City Day 3: Day Trip to Ateshgah and Yanardag Day 4: Day Trip to Gobustan, Bibi-Heybat Mosque, and Shebeke Beach Day 5: Day Trip to Shamakhi and/or Lahic OR alternatively, you can take a day trip to Sheki while exploring Lahic, Gabala, and Shamaki on the way (an exhausting one but worth it)

6 Days in Baku Itinerary

Day 1: Explore Baku City Day 2: Explore Baku City Day 3: Day Trip to Ateshgah and Yanardag Day 4: Day Trip to Gobustan, Bibi-Heybat Mosque, and Shebeke Beach Day 5: Day Trip to Shamakhi and/or Lahic Day 6: Day Trip to Gabala and or Savalan Valley

7 Days in Baku Itinerary

Day 1: Explore Baku City Day 2: Explore Baku City Day 3: Day Trip to Ateshgah and Yanardag Day 4: Day Trip to Gobustan, Bibi-Heybat Mosque, and Shebeke Beach Day 5: Day Trip to Shamakhi and/or Lahic Day 6: Day Trip to Gabala and or Savalan Valle Day 7: Day Trip to Quba and/or Khinaliq

Baku Travel FAQ

Is baku worth visiting.

Indeed. With fascinating history, culture, architecture (a mind-boggling mix of medieval and futuristic), plenty of beautiful attractions, unique natural landscapes, delicious cuisine, and welcoming locals, Baku checks all the boxes on being a wonderful travel destination.

What’s Baku Famous For?

Located on the shores of the Caspian Sea at the intersection between Europe, Asia, and the Middle East – the capital city of Azerbaijan, Baku is renowned for oil exploration and F1 races . A fine blend of ancient and modern architecture, the Flame Towers (the poster boy of Baku) and Heydar Aliyev Centre showcase innovative futuristic trends while the UNESCO-listed humble Icherisheher preserves its beautiful heritage. There’s a treasure of history, art, and culture in Baku owing to its strategic position on the ancient Silk Road Trade Route . It’s dubbed the City of Winds as it remains windy almost all through the year. Also, Baku is known for being the lowest-lying national capital in the world .

Is Baku Safe For Tourists?

Baku is a flourishing capital with a well-off infrastructure and is amazingly tourist friendly. It’s fairly safe for tourists, however, common tourist scams like getting overcharged by taxi drivers, stealing credit card information, or pickpocketing do occur. As with any travel destination, it’s vital to exercise caution and take sensible precautions such as taking care of your belongings, not carrying large amounts of money, using reliable transportation services, not venturing out after dark, and being vigilant of your surroundings.

How Many Days Are Enough in Baku?

2 days in Baku are more than enough to explore the highlights, however, if you would like to discover beyond the highlights, I recommend at least 4 days in Baku.

Is Baku Expensive to Visit?

I’d say, Baku is neither cheap nor expensive – it’s reasonably competitive. Obviously, the cost of your trip largely depends on various factors – the duration of your stay, your travel style & personal preferences. The estimated daily expenses in Baku can range anywhere from $50 to $150 depending on the type of accommodation, food outlets, transportation options, and attractions you choose.

Do I Need a Visa to Visit Baku?

It depends on your nationality. Check the visa requirements for Azerbaijan before planning your trip. Azerbaijan offers single-entry eVisa to over 95 countries, including the US, European Nations, the UK, Canada, and India. The online application process is super easy.

What is the Local Currency in Baku, and Can I Use Credit Cards?

The local currency in Baku, Azerbaijan, is the Azerbaijani Manat (AZN). Credit cards are widely accepted in Baku, however, It is wise to keep some local currency handy for small purchases, especially in street markets or smaller establishments that may not accept credit cards.

_____ _____ _____

I sincerely hope this Baku tour itinerary helps you craft yours to explore the best of Baku in 2 days. If you’ve any questions, shoot them in the comments section below.

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Anjali Chawla

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The Hangry Backpacker

Go Alone. Get Lost. Eat.

Baku, Azerbaijan: Complete Solo Travel Guide

April 6, 2019 By Hangry Backpacker 3 Comments

Solo travel is one of the best ways to see Baku, the capital city of Azerbaijan. This fascinating city barely registers on most travel radars, and there are plenty of reasons, from food to history, to visit Baku.

Here is everything you need to know for a solo trip to Baku, complete with tips getting around, expenses, safety and what to do:

Practical Information for Solo Travel in Baku

Baku, azerbaijan.

Baku is a rapidly developing city. Azerbaijan is in the Caucasus region of Eurasia, with the Caspian Sea to the east, Iran bordering to the south and Armenia, Georgia and Russia forming borders to the north and west.

Travel to Baku primarily consists of foreigners visiting for work, with major international petroleum companies maintaining a presence in the area. The country has massive natural gas reserves that have fueled a boom in the capital city.

Solo travel to Baku and the rest of Azerbaijan has increased in recent years, with the city seeing an influx of independent travelers. Outside of Baku, the tourism industry in Azerbaijan remains in infancy. There is a lot of nature to enjoy, tons of great food and plenty of picturesque villages, but not a lot to offer for most tourists.

Heydar Aliyev International Airport

Baku’s Heydar Aliyev International Airport is Azerbaijan’s gateway of travel to the world. The airport is nice, shiny and new.

Entrance to Azerbaijan through Baku International Airport is fairly simple for solo travel. The process begins online, where you apply and pay ($25) for a visa. It takes about a week for confirmation. Upon arrival in Baku, immigration officials really have one concern: whether or not you’ve been to Armenia . After answering no, the official flipped through my passport to confirm, took my photo and fingerprints, then sent me on my way. Quick and simple.

Make sure to have a copy of your hotel booking. This is a visa requirement.

Before leaving the secure area, there is an ATM down the escalators, in the corner on the ground floor.

Transportation to the city is easy. Solo travel on a budget in Azerbaijan will require a lot of public transportation, and the Airport Express to Baku city center is a deal.

DO NOT take a taxi. Prices for taxis are absolutely insulting. I was quoted no less than the equivalent of $50 for an official taxi to the city. Prices were not negotiable. This is legal robbery of unsuspecting visitors.

Instead, the Airport Express stops directly in front of the terminal. Tickets for the bus can be purchased at a small kiosk (cash only), outside the doors and next to a coffee stand. The bus departs every 30 minutes, heading to the city center with one stop along the way. The bus is air conditioned, clean and comfortable.

The Airport Express costs about 2 Azerbaijani manat (AZN). That’s barely more than $1. Don’t waste money on a taxi.

The bus unloads in the city center, at 28 May metro station, where you can take a subway, walk or find a more affordable taxi to your destination.

Baku, Azerbaijan Solo Travel Costs

While the rest of Azerbaijan lags behind, Baku is as incredibly expensive place to live, evidence by the designer shops and fancy high rise condominiums popping up across the city.

For travelers, Baku isn’t the cheapest destination, but travel to “Little Dubai” can be done on a budget. There is not an abundance of hostels and guesthouses in the city center. Most foreigners, likely in Azerbaijan for business, wind up in one of the many luxury hotels of Baku.

Of the limited options available, travelers can expect to pay a per night average of 30-40 AZN (about $20 USD) on the low end. A room with air conditioning, which is not normally needed in Baku, will cost more.

However, in 2018, Baku experienced one of the hottest summers on record, with temperatures 20 degrees (Farenheit) above average. The surge in power demands caused massive blackouts in Baku and across Azerbaijan, even leading to the subway system losing power and shutting down.

Ride the Subways

Solo travel in Azerbaijan eventually leads to the subway in Baku. The Baku Metro is the best method for getting around the city. Riding on the Soviet-era subway trains is an uncomfortable, but fun ride. The trains are only about 50 years old, but you can feel every jolt, bolt, twist and turn as they blaze beneath the streets. Perhaps it is the rickety, old cars, but the Baku Metro feels faster than any other subway in my travel experiences.

Seriously, hold on.

The Baku Metro is typical of Soviet metro systems. Like others, it is incredibly far below city streets, effectively doubling as a bomb shelter. And it is beautiful. Despite everything else, the Soviets deserve credit for their subway systems. The detail and intricate design put into each station is impressive. There are also reminders on the walls of lessons learned about propaganda and communism, but that topic isn’t exactly cheerful.

The Baku Metro is good news for a travel budget. One ride on the subway is 0.2 AZN. A reloadable card is required, which costs 2 AZN. The card plus five rides will cost a mere 3 AZN. That’s less than $2 USD! Buses are even cheaper, making public transportation the easy choice for solo travel in Baku.

English is sparse in Baku, so plan your routes and know your stops before setting out for the day.

Solo travel in Azerbaijan is a thrill, but easy in Baku. Free from the constraints of prearranged group travel buses, solo travelers are able to go where they please on the speedy trains of Baku.

Safety in Baku

When hearing of solo travel to Baku, most people express confusion and concern that anyone would travel to Azerbaijan. In fact, many westerners are entirely unaware that Azerbaijan is a country.

That’s okay, though. What people lack in awareness of Baku is simply a better opportunity for off-the-beaten-path solo travel. With Baku off of most travel radars, the worry is that a solo traveler could be in danger in Azerbaijan.

Thankfully, there is no need to fear for safety in Baku. As long as you aren’t Armenian, Azerbaijan is a safe country. The two countries aren’t exactly best buds, and travel across the border is practically impossible.

Locals in Baku are out and about enjoying the city’s parks and are helpful to tourists. Any notion of being unwelcome is not apparent.

For visitors to Baku, the city is safe. Walking the wide, shiny promenades in the city center, it’s hard to imagine feeling any worry. Bakuvians enjoy their city and do not want any disturbance of the peace. Meanwhile, the Azerbaijani government has worked hard – and done a great job – to eliminate any extremist groups that may hinder progress and harm a good reputation of safety.

How to Dress in Baku

The only area tourists should exercise caution in Azerbaijan is with clothing. Unlike some nearby Muslim nations, women in Azerbaijan dress freely. Baku is more liberal than the rest of the country, with women enjoying high fashion and dressing to impress.

Western women may encounter staring. Lots of uncomfortable staring. When it is warm out, it is tempting to wear a tank top and shorts, a skirt or something cooler. This is fine in Baku, and your safety is not at risk, but the stares can be uncomfortable. It is best to move along and ignore the onlookers.

For men, dress in Azerbaijan is peculiar. Men in several countries in the world wear long pants year-round. In Azerbaijan, men wearing shorts is particularly taboo. A few government officials have been outspoken about the issue. There are men in Baku bold enough to wear shorts, but not many.

Tourists get a pass on wearing shorts more than locals in Baku, but I recommend blending in as much as possible for solo travel anywhere.

Onward Solo Travel from Baku

Onward travel from Baku, heading elsewhere in Azerbaijan, is a simple, yet complex affair for solo travelers. If you’re going back to the airport, simply retrace your steps, starting where the Airport Express drops off at 28 May station. If further travel is via bus, travelers need to go to the main bus station.

The bus station is easy to reach from the Baku Metro. Take the Green Line from 28 May Station to Memar Əcəmi Station. There, switch to the Purple Line to Avtovağzal , which is one stop away. Avtovağzal means “bus station,” and that’s where you want to go.

Navigating the Baku bus station can be a headache for solo travelers that don’t speak the language. Hopefully for you, my headache will help you avoid the same frustration.

Tickets can be purchased at the station, inside in the back of the building . On the 3rd level. The back of the building appears empty, but there will be a few ticket windows open. Say the name of your destination and the employees will direct you to the appropriate window.

This doesn’t sound complicated, but in a massive, four-story international bus station with hundreds of shops – and did I mention no one speaks any English? – finding the right ticket window can be a nightmare. Get there early and be patient. Also, good luck.

What to See & Do in Baku

Gobustan petroglyphs.

Gobustan is a site of prehistoric petroglyphs dating back thousands of years. The rock carvings include Viking ships, Roman markings, as well as depictions thousands of years older.

The visitor center and museum at this UNESCO-designated site is informative, interesting and modern. Entrance is cheap, at 5 AZN.

There are thousands of carvings spread out among the barren rocks, with paths leading around many of them. However, the carvings are underwhelming. Truthfully, pictures are sufficient. Sure, the carvings are interesting and anthropologically important, but they’re much smaller than images suggest. It’s fairly difficult to even get a decent photograph without a high-powered lens.

Consider that the drive to Gobustan takes at least an hour and hiring a car is the only practical option. Time is better spent in Baku for most tourists. If you have a spare day and anthropology excites you, wandering Gobustan for a few hours is the perfect activity.

Mud Volcanoes of Gobustan

If Gobustan is alluring, make sure to save time for a more interesting site nearby. Also in the Gobustan National Park are the famous mud volcanoes. The area is home to nearly half of the world’s mud volcanoes.

If you’re thinking massive mountains spewing mud, scale down your expectations. Mud volcanoes are large mounds in a geothermally active area.  Mud bubbles up and slowly oozes out, over time building up to these mini “volcanoes.”

The Gobustan mud volcanoes are a fascinating thing to see in Azerbaijan, but require a tedious journey from Baku that makes solo travel to the spot almost impossible for non-locals. Theoretically, it is possible to catch a bus to the nearest town. From there, drivers may or may not be hanging out by the road waiting for passengers. But the bus takes a long time and runs inconsistently.

The route to the mud volcanoes – it is not a road – winds along a dusty, bumpy path. Drivers have a deep trust in their cars, careless and fearless of the terrain. They drive straight through bumps and obstacles at a blistering pace in their old Soviet jalopies. As for off-roading in an old Soviet Lada, it’s pretty fun. Wear sunglasses and bring a cloth, though. It’s dusty.

The site is not developed – it’s just there . On the day I visited the mud volcanoes, there were no other tourists in sight. A few locals were soaking in one of the bubbling pits of mud, which is supposedly therapeutic.

The Azerbaijan mud volcanoes are pretty cool, but it is best to think twice about making the solo travel venture to Gobustan from Baku. It’s a long way out for a short wander. Although the next time I visit Baku, I plan to have a mud soak of my own.

Ateshgah of Baku

The Ateshgah of Baku is a temple that has been home to fire-worshiping Hindus, Sikhs and Zoroastrians. The current complex is a few hundred years old, but there is evidence of use going back over one thousand years.

The temple is centered around a flame in the center that burned naturally from gas leaks for hundreds of years. The original flame finally burned out and the current flame is man-made, but the temple is still authentic.

The trip out to Ateshgah of Baku is like any solo travel in Azerbaijan – crowded buses and a lot of guessing, traveling on an indirect route to finally reach the destination.

With the cheap transportation mentioned above, and an admission cost of only 4 AZN, the Ateshgah of Baku is a great budget activity for a day. The best part of visiting the Ateshgah of Baku is seeing a side of the city few other tourists ever will. Bus 184 from Koroğlu metro station will (eventually) get you to the Fire Temple.

Yanar Dag is a another fiery attraction outside of Baku. This is an open, 50-foot-long flame coming out of the ground. There’s so much natural gas in Baku that it is literally leaking out of the ground. At some point, this gas leak ignited and has been burning for years.

Why Yanar Dag is often recommended to tourists is beyond me. It’s certainly intriguing, but to spend several hours bussing around Baku only to come upon a little bit of fire is a colossal waste of time.

The suburbs and towns the bus passes through are very different from the city. For window-watchers like myself, that is the cool part of this excursion. However, unless you are in need of some kind of solo travel day-challenge of navigation, stay in Baku.

Yanar Dag, it’s a fire. See the picture above. Save the time.

Exploring Old City Baku

Old City Baku is a real-life postcard before your eyes. The tiny, walled Old City is another UNESCO-designated site travelers can check off the list. The various buildings range from a few hundred to a thousand years old.

Among the narrow, winding streets of Old City Baku are mosques, museums, a palace and the iconic 12th century Maiden Tower.

The Old City may be small, but it is worth spending at least a day wandering the area. Oddly, the streets are calm and quiet, while thousands of people walk the streets beyond the walls. There are several shops for tourists as well, selling everything from gaudy t-shirts to beautiful handmade rugs.

Restaurants in the Old City range from touristy Italian to fast food. There are a few restaurants serving local food, too. The prices are inflated, owing to the location, but the food is fantastic and is a great starting point for a curious eater.

Shopping in Baku

Travelers in search of cool trinkets and souvenirs will find plenty in the shops around Old City Baku. The rugs are a tempting spoil for any traveler to the region. But before you go and drop serious cash on an antique rug, buyer beware.

There are strict laws regulating the purchase of rugs. Souvenir rugs will (probably) cause no issue. But authentic, especially antique, rugs are not easily (read: legally ) transported. Old rugs that are eligible for tourist export are subject to serious taxes, sometimes effectively doubling the price. If you’re caught trying to bring an antique rug out of the country, expect a lot of grief, including fines, visa revocation and possibly criminal charges.

Oh, and locals may ignore the laws and sell rugs anyway. Customs officials will not be sympathetic to your plight, and trouble will ensue.

The tip: when in Baku, travel light and leave the rugs behind.

Eating Cheap in Baku

Baku is not an expensive city. Aside from the accommodation costs mentioned above, solo travel to Baku can be done on a budget. Food is not expensive, either.

There is a growing industry of fine dining and expensive restaurants in Baku, but you can still eat great food elsewhere. Piti, a simple mutton and vegetable soup, is an Azerbaijani national treasure that is worth eating at least once. Other common foods include various lamb dishes, dushbara (Azerbaijani dumplings), an assortment of yogurt-based dishes and great pastries.

If you’re looking for something quick and cheap, there are few places in the world with as many shawarma stands and shops as Baku. In Baku and the greater region, for any sort of solo travel on a budget, shawarma is your best friend. They do it right in Azerbaijan. Ayran, a popular salty yogurt beverage in the wide world of shawarma, is always the perfect pairing.

Local bakeries are also a great source of cheap food. Freshness is the norm in Baku, and you can grab a few pastries to eat for the day for a few manat.

Finding cheap food is an important part of travel , and Baku is an easy place to turn your cash into plenty of delicious local food.

Azerbaijani Beer & Cheese

Azerbaijanis love their beer and consume more booze per capita than any other Muslim country in the world. (Technically, Kazakhstan consumes slightly more, but it has a considerable population of non-Muslims.) Xirdalan, the de facto national beer of Azerbaijan, is a drinkable brew readily available in Baku. Xirdalan is a soothing relief from the dry, windy air.

Azerbaijanis eat cheese when they drink beer. The cheese is braided when made and served in strings. The chewy cheese comes in long, thin strings and has a slight smokiness to accompany the high saltiness. It may not be endemic to Azerbaijan, but it pairs perfectly with beer. And locals eat it, so join in!

The best part about beer in Baku is that it is really cheap. A giant mug of that delicious ice cold golden nectar from the gods can be yours for 1-2 AZN, about a dollar.

Baku is a destination barely on the radar of most tourists. Azerbaijan is often lumped in with the turmoil of surrounding areas, but the country is peaceful and safe. Foreigners are welcome and locals in Baku are receptive to tourists.

Azerbaijan is changing, and Baku is at the forefront. Head-turning skyscrapers are just the beginning. Fortunately, Baku has a strong hold on its culture and visitors can enjoy the best of the city’s food and culture.

Despite a few expensive aspects of visiting Azerbaijan, it is generally an affordable destination, and solo travel in Baku is a wonderful experience.

Reader Interactions

May 2, 2019 at 9:24 am

Hey I just wanted to say that I saw your recent collab on The Ninja Gypsy’s blog and just wanted to say that I am so glad to see other bloggers have the same positive sentiments about this country that I do! I’ve visited four times myself and fallen in love a little more each time. This country truly is one of the most underrated in the world.

May 2, 2019 at 3:57 pm

Hey, thanks for checking it out! I couldn’t agree more. It’s a beautiful country and definitely underrated. Four times? That’s awesome! I can’t wait to go back myself.

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Explore Baku's Old City

A city within a city, the Old City is Baku's historic core and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has so much to explore, from the Maiden's Tower and Shirvanshahs' Palace to art galleries, theatres and cafés.  More

take a walking tour of Baku’s oil-boom architecture

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Discover Gobustan's ancient rock art

Uncover an astonishing collection of over 6,000 ancient petroglyphs charting ways of life dating back tens of thousands of years. More

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Learn to prepare the most delicious and traditional sweets from Guba, such as pakhlava and bukma, directly from local chefs. More

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If you are a golf and nature fan, you should visit Guba’s National Golf Club course in the foothills of the Caucasus Mountains, a splendid place to play! More

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Discover a peaceful old city highlighted by a few colourful old cottages reminiscent of a time when Gusar was part of the Russian Empire. More

Hit the target at Gabala Shooting Club

Gabala has many shooting experiences set for you to enjoy. Visit the Gabala Shooting Club to improve your aim and enjoy its beautiful natural surroundings. More

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a palace to happiness recounts a history of love

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Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography

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Salam azerbaijan practical information.

Here in Azerbaijan you can count on the help of our generous people in every step of your journey. Still, here is some useful information we’d like you to know before you jump on a plane.

Find out if you need a visa to enter Azerbaijan and learn how to apply to get your e-visa. It is easy and fast. learn more

Practical information

Planning a trip can get really complicated, so to make it easier for you here’s a list of all the things you need to consider when planning a visit to Azerbaijan. learn more

There’s plenty to see and do in Azerbaijan all year round, but every season has its own special vibe.  learn more

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English and Russian are widely understood and spoken in the capital, Baku, but as you travel across the country knowing a few words of Azerbaijani will definitely enrich your experiences. learn more

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Azerbaijan lands are very famous for their desserts. The same dessert can be prepared in different regions with its own unique styles and their aromatics are individually.

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Who Is Oscar Piatri’s Girlfriend? All About Lily Zneimer

Oscar Piastri's girlfriend Lily Zneimer is supportive of his F1 dreams

Kym Illman/Getty

Oscar Piastri and his girlfriend, Lily Zneimer, have been dating since high school.

The Australia-born McLaren Formula 1 driver who made history in his rookie year — and who will continue racing with the team through 2026, per ESPN — met Zneimer while at boarding school in England, where he moved to pursue racing during his early teens.

Piastri and Zneimer attended secondary school — the U.K. version of high school — at Haileybury in Hertford, England, north of London.  The two began dating in their second-to-last year, Piastri told host Dax Shepard on the Eff Won with DRS podcast in 2023, before he graduated in 2019.

The couple keeps their relationship out of the public eye, preferring not to share much about themselves on social media. “We keep it private, [but] not secretive like some relationships are,” Piastri said on Eff Won podcast. “We keep it to ourselves and try to be out of the spotlight and just love normal lives.”

Even so, Zneimer makes it to Piastri’s races and supports his career despite his hectic schedule as one of only 20 Formula 1 drivers in the world.

So who is Oscar Piastri’s girlfriend? Here’s everything to know about Lily Zneimer and her relationship with the driver.

They met at boarding school

Oscar Piatri Instagram

Piastri left his hometown of Melbourne, Australia, at 14 years old to pursue racing in the U.K. He attended boarding school at Haileybury college, a co-education school in Hertford, England — and the sister school where he studied in Melbourne — while racing in Formula 4,  Formula 3 and Formula Renault.

At Haileybury, he met Zneimer, and the two began dating during their second-to-last year of school. “We’ve been together ever since,” Piastri said on the Eff Won podcast in 2023, adding that they’ve been dating for over four years at that point. “So it’s been nice to have someone there from the start that’s still with me.”

While Piastri was earning a 35 percent attendance rate in his last year due to his racing training, according to The Athletic , Zneimer was achieving perfect grades. In 2018, she was one of a handful of Haileybury students who earned the best GCSE exam results in the school’s history, according to the school’s website and the Hertfordshire Mercury .

The two haven’t gone far from their boarding school roots, as Piastri still lives near London, and the couple attended Wimbledon together in the summer of 2023. Piastri posted a rare photo of them in the stands and wrote, “F1P4 -> SW19 🍓🎾 Awesome day at Wimbledon,” referring to his fourth-place standing in the British Grand Prix just days before.

She supports his career

Though Piastri spends the year traveling around the world, Zneimer often attends his races and award ceremonies.

On the Eff Won podcast, Piastri talked about his friends and family supporting his career and mentioned Zneimer as well. “She’s come to quite a few races this year, which has been nice,” he said.

In Piastri’s debut 2023 Formula 1 season, Zneimer attended a handful of races in different countries, including the Italian Grand Prix, Singapore Grand Prix and Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, often seen entering the paddock with her boyfriend.

Zneimer was also Piasti’s date to the Autosport Awards in London the prior year. He posted a photo on Instagram of him and Zneimer on the red carpet — him in a tuxedo and her in a midnight blue gown — announcing his win for the rookie for the year.

“It was an amazing night at the @autosport awards last weekend,” he wrote. “Thanks to everyone who voted!”

In December 2023, the pair flew to Baku, Azerbaijan, for the FIA Awards, where he won rookie of the year. He posted a photo on Instagram with Zneimer, who wore a blue floral gown, and his award with the caption, “Baku take 2, last day as a rookie 🫡.”

She was also there to support him at the Formula 1 Grand Prix of Monaco in May 2024, where he came in second.

They travel together

Though they’re often going from location to location for Piastri’s races, the couple also find time to have fun.

In the middle of the 2023 season, Piastri and his girlfriend took a break from the track and visited the Algarve in Portugal. He posted a slideshow of photos on Instagram , including a mirror selfie with Zneimer and some scenic shots of the area alongside the message, “Little mid season recharge 🇵🇹.”

When visiting Piastri’s hometown of Melbourne for the Australian Grand Prix, he took Zneimer around, as seen in a promotional video for the race, in which they took a helicopter ride and visited an animal sanctuary.

“I’ve really enjoyed coming back here when I can and to be able to share that with my partner as well is very special.” Piastri said in the clip. “It’s been nice to have her here this time and relax a little bit, have a bit of downtime, and show her some of the sights of Melbourne.”

She keeps him grounded

Kym Illman/Getty 

Piastri credits Zneimer with encouraging him to stay down to earth amongst the newly found fame he’s achieved in Formula 1, according to a 2023 interview with 9 New Melbourne .

That grounding involves doing “normal things” when he’s not racing, Piastri told The Athletic in 2023, including playing video games, hanging out with his girlfriend and cooking at home. On the Pit Stop Podcast in 2022, Piasri told the hosts that Zneimer helps a lot with his more recent cooking hobby.

Piastri and the hosts talked about one prawn pasta Piastri tweeted on X (formerly known as Twitter) with the caption, “Just wanted to prove to Twitter that I can actually cook (ok my girlfriend mayyyy have helped but that’s beside the point).”

While Piastri said he had Zneimer's assistance, he added, “I’m going to take the credit. [But she] does help me out with the cooking. I haven’t set too many things on fire recently.”

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