grizzly 660 long travel kit

Yamaha Grizzly 660 High Lifter Lift Kit

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• 2002 Yamaha Grizzly 660 Auto 4x4
• 2003 Yamaha Grizzly 660 Auto 4x4
• 2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660 Auto 4x4
• 2005 Yamaha Grizzly 660 Auto 4x4
• 2007 Yamaha Grizzly 660 Auto 4x4
• 2008 Yamaha Grizzly 660 Auto 4x4

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2” Lift Kit Yamaha Grizzly 660

$ 155.00

Be Big. Be Bold. Go Deep. High Lifter kits are built tough. From the design, materials, and craftsmanship, our engineers use their expertise to build kits for the lifetime of your machine. The hard part is done for you. Now, you can spend less time stuck and more time tackling the trails and deepest mud holes.

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Lifting your ATV is the ultimate statement in off-roading. This lift kit will meet your style and needs by providing unstoppable performance on the trails while making you stand out. This trail friendly lift system is built to help you hit the gnarly holes you’ve dreamed of and get you in and OUT of deep mud.

Built with the stability and quality you have come to expect from High Lifter, we provide a precision-engineered lift system to give you that true, full lift and create a ride perfectly suited to you. Ride higher knowing you can tackle any challenges from rough to deep terrain.

Our engineers have spent over 21 years perfecting the ultimate lift to provide maximum performance, durability, and strength while keeping installation simple and easy. Discover for yourself the reason off-road enthusiasts keep choosing High Lifter lift kits. When you do, you’ll have the confidence to ride harder and go deeper.

2″ Standard Series Lift Kit Features: – Zinc plating for long life in rugged conditions – All installation hardware included – Detailed step by step photo instructions – Backed by High Lifter Lifetime Warranty

Note: This lift kit requires aftermarket heavy duty rear axles. It will not work with stock rear axles.

High Lifter

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big bore kit?????????

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i would like to get more power out of my grizz. is a big bore kit the way to go or is there a better option. i need something that will be reliable but give more power  

That's a real good question that I think we've all had rolling around in our minds... First and foresmost; if you make more power, you're making more heat. Your cooling system might need upgrading! Is your bike a 600, 660 0r 700? The 600; being air-cooled, might not take well to the same mods that the other motors would. If you've got a 700; well that's fuel injected so your induction system mods will be more complicated. Assuming that you've got a 660, why not go with incremental changes? Get the intake and exhaust opened up so that the stock bore and stroke can breathe better first. The more air that you can move through the motor, the more horsepower you're making. Once you see how those mods go, then you might want to get real greasy crawling around inside the bore and stroke... I'd take small steps first... The fun is in the planning of these projects; you've got to have it all mapped out before the wrenches start turning! Good luck!  

Bob when did you get motor smart? Anything can be done if you do it right! It all what you want, and making it work. I got a 686 mine with alot of other mods, and my fan never coms on as long as i go over 10mph for a long time. and mine has all the power anyone needs, and i can beat a 800 polaris quad and razor to 45 but 1-3 quad lenghts. I would start by asking the people who have done them and if they had any problems, and what they think, just cause its the cheaper way to go, doesn't mean its the best!  

before i ever get a bore kit id get a high comp piston and cam shaft that should give you all the power you could need... SS  

Jasson, B-) I'm not smart, but I've spent cubic dollars on past machines... I just think that taking a slow and steady approach to any buildup gives you a chance to evaluate every modification made to see just how far (or how much farther) you want to go with the whole deal... SS, Higher compression ratios might build a lot more power; but they also might make the motor more sensitive to fuel quality. It'll also put more strain on the battery as it tries to turn the starter on an 11:1 piston... I can't turn mine over with the pull starter now with the stock 9.1:1 setup; but I'm a big baby anyway... B-)  

Here's my 2 cents worth. The 686 kit is supposed to be very reliable, depending on the quality of the mechanical work done. Suppose to give ya lots of power, better bottom end, & from what I've read on several forums, doesn't run any hotter than stock. However, also from what I've read, the JE 10.75 piston is a better way to go than the 11.0 ?? .. Don't ask me why, but that’s what I have planned when I get ready to "Upgrade". ( I believe it has to do with still being able to use pump gas. My owner’s manual reads 91 octane or better, so that's what I run) Also, the Raptor cam is a big improvement as well. Just change the stock Grizzly valves to the Raptor ones. You'll also need a good air intake, K&N or Unifilter ... & a good exhaust to get the real benefit of any "Engine Mods". So don't skimp. Bob, to pull start your Grizz, try this ... turn the key on, slowly pull your pull starter rope up until you feel it "Release" ... then let it return (keep some tension on it) ... then give it a strong pull ... the Grizz should start right up Big Guy !! ... Let me know how it goes. One more note, I wrote to a guy on this forum about the 686, 727, & the 800 BBK. He had the first two BBK kits & had some experience with the 800 kit. He recommended the 686 kit. (Besides, the 800 kits costs about $2500) ... Best of luck .... Later ...  

Gunny, Is that "strong pull" you mentioned kept stored in the tool pouch? I must have lost mine... B-) At least I can still start the Missus' Kodiak with the pull-start... B-(  

Bob, did you even try what I told ya ?? (On pull start'in your Grizz) ... I know you have a few "strong pulls" left in your tool pouch ... LOL !!! Com'on, try it. Maybe it's not that strong of a pull required ... but put some snap into it, like you was start'in your lawn mower or snowblower !!! ... No, not like your weed eater ... it takes a little more of a tug than a weed eater dude !!!! Now, go out side, & try it !!! ... If it helps, you need'in a lot of that, stand on the floorboard when you give the Grizz the "Ole Tug" ... that way, ya won't flip the Grizz over with your Manly Man pull of the starter rope !!! ... LOL !!!! WHAT ?? Later ...  

Oh crap! I spun my Griz in the garage like a pig on a spit. It took out the garage door on its way into the back yard! I forgot to put my foot on the floorboard to hold the thing in place... B-)  

je 10 3:4 piston kit are the same as 11:1 kits! Just an fyi. I did the wiseco kit.  

i have a 2004 grizz 660. i just bought it and i think the seals might be bad, so im thinking if im going to put some mony into it im gonna make it worth it. im thinking of a 686 big bore kit. id like to know how reileable they r and is there a noticeable difference with it including a pipe and jetting  

The 686 is the way to go on these motors. You'll end up keping the reliability factor as high as it could ever be. Jetting is so particular to where and how you ride that the only thing best said about it, is "Get it right!" Pipes again are a personal taste issue; if noise isn't an issue you can make a whole bunch of power with them alone. That may be the problem; maybe too much noise??? I think if you go much bigger than 102mm, the cylinder walls start to get too thin. This leaves plenty of room for the future...  

Pun, if you do the 686 with my stock raptor cam mod, which is in the mod section and only $50. You will have more power then any bolt on item other the nos! You will have More power everywhere, And mine with a 686, raptor cam, leo pipe, intake, cdi, my custom carb mod, jet kit, filter, etc. You will beat a 800 polaris by 3-4 bike from 0-45 and 45-60, he will gain some, this is with my bike with beeadlocks and 27's, and a stock 800  

Jasson's got this pretty well-figured out; that's for sure! Jasson, Leo Vince pipes; how noisy (or quiet) are they? Noise is a MAJOR issue where I am, so I've got to be real careful...  

Mine with the small core is only 2db's lounder then stock, and they big core its about 105 db's. With the small core, i have had now problems at state parks or riding area's where they check sound, and they never will need to be re-packed. Have had mine now for over a year, and still the same db's as when i first put it on. It the only pipe to get in my view.  

idk about 800 kits. its not really a "bore" its more like heres a new top half of your motor oh btw you can now stuff your head through the hole. SS  

More power is always a double-edged sword... Too big or too much, and you've built a ticking time bomb that'll blow your wallet to pieces! I'd much rather have decent power in an absolutely reliable package. It's no fun to have a ride ruined by a breakdown. I'ts even LESS fun when you're th guy on the wrong end of the tow-rope! I'm taking a close look at what Jasson has put together; it sure looks like the right balance to me! Jasson, Leovince.com? Is that their website?  

im stayin with my 660 its already enough for me i can get a wheelie in high with 55lbs tires + rims with me sittin my skinny butt on the seat. any more and i would fly off. actually im making excuses as to not spend any more money no matter how bad i want to.. ****. im gonna do the 686 as soon as i can. SS  

Bob, i think so, if no look for leovinceusa.com  

They'll be the next ones in my sights; I'll have to do more digging for knowledge about the 686 kits that are out there first! Raptor cam is already being search for on E-Bay also! All five springs should be changed? S.S. I guess it's inevitable; no matter how great these bikes are, we can't help put try to make them better!  

Bidding on the Raptor cam right now... Do you think that the factory Raptor springs are good enough, or should I be looking at some sort of a titanium upgrade since I'll be intere anyway? I'm also looking at Highlifter's website. In the magazine ads they mention a "686" kit... (Check out my Member #; it's just meant to be!)  

The stock springs are fine, since you are using a stock raptor cam. The valves will not float with that cam and spring setup. Stiffer or better valves is so that the valves dont float. I really dont like there kit, its just another je or wiseco kit, with there name, and more money. My kit will give you more power then there kit will and it will last waY longer then any other kits. When you do the kit, you will have a 660 rapter top end, and we know those to last a long time. And that 686 bore has prove its self in the 660 grizzly's, and raptor's. Its your safest bet to go for more motor and power without adding wear, and stress to your motor.  

Crap! A cam from an '05 Raptor went for $51, and one from an '03 went for $36. Missed by a buck on BOTH of them! I guess that on top of everything else, I'm a cheap b*st*rd! I'll keep plugging away at them though... Thanks for the info about the springs! I was sort of thinking along the lines of lightening up the valvetrain to help the motor build revs quicker. Even with the CDI box changed, I'm still not revving it enough to float the valves... (Unless I REALLY screw up something else along the way!)  

I'm gonna watch U'r mods very close Bob,,,I think thats a project that I would like to do down the road if I didn't trade up to a 700 with EPS,,,EPS is what I would really like to do to my Grizz before any major engine modifations  

Thanks, Roger, I've decided that once the Missus lets go of my throat, I'll probably be ordering the psiton and rings from JE. They've got a 10:1 compression ratio setup that I'd still be able to run 87 octane in, yet still pump up the torque and horsepower. A Raptor cam sounds like it might also fall into my pile of parts as cash allows... Once I start getting serious, I will, of course, keep you all posted on what I finally end up with..  

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660 Jetting Help!!

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Hey ya'll. Getting an HMF Utility slip-on soon. I was wondering,since I have the 686 big bore in it, what jet would I use. The 660 or 686? Thanks, Tyler  

Not certain I am following since you appear to be referencing engine cc when asking about carb jet sizes...I think. If you are asking if you should go with a jet kit that is designed for a 660 or a 686, I think most jet kit manufacturers are unlikely to have kits for non-standard engine displacements but... In general, a larger engine will require more fuel (and air) so getting a jet kit that leans toward the larger jets for a 660 might be a starting point. Actually, the diff between 660 and 686 is only about 4% so it may make very little difference.  

The evel one HBD,,,Brother it's good to hear from you...The theory is that a 686 will move 26ccs more air per stroke than a 660. The limiting factor will be head porting. A good port job will take into account engine size and camshaft profile. Without a good port job the increase in cylinder size will not call for a dramatic increase in jet size. Now if it's stroked, cammed, ported and flowed by a competent head porter jet size will increase dramatically. I'd say you can get by with a 45 pilot jet, a Dyno-Jet kit with the needle on the fourth clip and a 160-165 DJ main jet. 160 is the biggest jet in the kit so order a 165 and 170. I don't think she'll push a 170 but maybe.....I run a 45/4th/165 with a full HMF and a UNI filter. No problem with the roost off those Zillas running that set-up...I'm just sayin"thedevil1thedevil1thedevil1  

I have a stock 660 and am installing the following this weekend 9-4-2010: 1. 686 big bore kit 2. HotCam stage 1 3. HMF performance (utlity slip-on exhaust) 4. 2000 foot elevation Anyone have a suggestion for jetting?  

Wellllll...no, not really. I'd say "big". If you are going to use a DynoJet kit, I'd get the Q415 kit (Grizzly 660 stage 1) and go ahead and get a 165 and 170 main jets as well...you might need them. By the way, you will need more air for that setup. I personally suggest the clamp-on K&N mod I did (see my Garage). Ask and I can send you a Word doc with complete fabrication instructions. If El Dee is not too busy dealing with Hurricane Earl, he might chime in with some suggested starting settings. Have fun with that build man, sounds like you will have a busy weekend. EDIT: BTW, at 686cc, you will have the same displacement as the Grizzly 700. Aught to be pretty awesome. EDIT2: Rats, forgot to ask what your elevation is. NEVER MIND...I'll learn to read soon. EDIT3: Just at a guess, I suppose I'd start with the 160 main jet but I bet it's gonna be lean with it. Also, I would STRONGLY suggest that you get a Kehin #45 pilot jet...the stock #40 is pretty lean with no mods and your going to need the extra fuel in the pilot circuit. EDIT infinity: Now I notice (DUH); your setup is almost identical to Hillbilly Deluxe's. I'd say start with what El Dee suggested for him and see if it gets you in the ball park (I bet it does...El Dee knows his shtuff).  

I editing my post so many times, I figured I'd bump the thread in case you missed any of it.  

Thanks I appreciate your post - I forgot to add that I was also adding a K&N filter as you suggested. Definately need more air. I would like the word-doc fab instructions - again thanks for the help. Mike  

No prob. I'll PM you when I get home so I can get that doc to ya.  

The evel one Hey Dizz it's a Mikuni....At 2000 ft you're kinda high...Dang must be nice...I'd still plug in the 45/DJ Kit on 4th clip/160 or 165. 2000 should let you set the a/f mixture screw in a bit form the normal 3+- turns out. The big block kit may require the 165 main, may not. You're gonna have to read the plugs to set it precisely. thedevil1thedevil1thedevil1  

Mikehin, Kahuni, whatev! :laugh1:  

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660 stroker kit jetting

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I got a big bore and stroker kit, mudbuster cam, dynatek cdi, hmf slip on performance pipe, and i snorkled it. Ive searched and found little info. Im lookimg for suggestions what it jet it at. I cant remember how its set up now but runs like crap. Its way rich. Im thinking the snokles are throwing me off on how to set it up. Im using mikuni jets  

Jetting is not a one off answer like that. Wish it was that easy. Jetting a carb (especially one with mods like yours) is essentially custom to each machine in that specific environment. You could have 2 same bikes with same mods and each could have different carb settings to run correctly. Even elevation at which you operate has an effect. I live at sea level to about 2000'. Ridgway rides routinely at 10,000'. His bike would have a completely different carb setup than mine, even in stock form. What you to do now is to figure out what jets you have in your carb (main and pilot jets) and buy a jet kit with several smaller jets than yours....and get to work. If one set of jets do not work. Replace and try again. Remember to have several spark plugs around for doing plug drops to check main jet circuit. It's a pain in the butt to do, but take your time and do it right and you'll have a good performing and reliable machine.  

Yea i know theres alot involved in it but i was just kinda looking for a good placw to start  

Honestly id start with a jet kit.. Plug chops work in a way they will at-least get your Wide open Throttle circuit in the money range. they are cheaper but depending on some things plug chops can lie to you a bit. I was doing plug chops on bikes for a while and i had one or two bikes where no mater what the plug said it was not quite right. I ended up buying a AFR meter after doing a few bikes had my bikes and friends and family bikes welded with a bung under the exhausts, then i dont have to read plugs i just adjust it that way and i can watch 0 to wide open slowly and see if there are any areas that need adjusting. Really helped me figure things out. It also helps me in other way for example i know i ride about 1000-2000 ft higher sea-level most of the time from where i live so i set my bike here a tad leaner than i would if i rode it at the same sea-level i set it high enough i dont loose anything there but not so high its too lean here. Reading plugs that would be a quite hard. It's just a suggestion but they do work well for what they do.  

So i cant get thing to run worth a crap. I had it jetted rich and it ran like crap so i leaned it and still crap. Ive read plugs amd it looks good. Ive done 40 45 and 50 pilots. Stock-195 main jet needle up and down and air screw adjustments amd i xant for th life of me get it to run giod. No matter what i do it wont idle without the choke on. And then 1/4 to 3/4 throttle it kinda spits and sputters like its loading up then if i go wide open on a long straight itll come out of it. No matter what i do it doesmt change. Im getting to a point i wonder if its electrical?  

Update. So i cleaned it over and over and no change so i bought a new carb off eBay. Now it runs with out spitting and sputtering but it wont idle with or without the choke on and it coughs and dies. On a wide open pull it runs good then when i let off it backfires and then will die. The plug doesnt look like its to lean. Do my valves need to be adjusted or what could be the issue. Im getting really sick if this thing.  

Some stock 660 carbs dont show the idle screw its covered by a cap that is glued down. You need to do some actual research here. There is a spot you can physically drill out or pop out the cap piece on on the bottom side of the carb that will expose the factory set idle screw for Air fuel mixture. So that is your idle mixture screw this does not increase or decrease your idle really its for air fuel mixture. Then into your carb once you pull the bowl off you will see the needle poking out , the top of this carb is the vacuum slide pot thats how you take the needle out of the carb. So when tuning this stock carb you want to first tune the Main Jet which only apply's to Wide open throttle. you start from that point because the Main jet is important to everything else down the line. So find a Main jet that leaves the plugs clean /brown and runs solid without bogging. At this point you start adjusting the needle height in the carb. The needle controls performance from 1/4 + up to about 3/4 throttle at this point any more and its obviously running off main jet again. set this where your bike best performs at these ranges you can try plug chops here also but its less definitive. Now as far as back firing this happens when your idle is lean. Essentially If your idle is far to lean and your Other stages are ok or rich when you let off it detonates the remaining gas in the exhaust and backfires it. Hope this helps.  

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