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The Ultimate Baja, Mexico, Travel Guide

Mexico’s 775-mile-long Baja Peninsula is a magnet for travelers in search of their own arid slice of adventure paradise. From surfing to mountain biking to beach lounging, here’s how to get off the beaten path and do it right.

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More than 75 percent of Baja’s 3.3 million residents live in the northern cities of Tijuana and Ensenada . Much of the rest of the 55,366-square-mile peninsula—surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west coast and the Gulf of California on the east coast—is wide-open space, an increasing amount of which is becoming preserved as federal lands, private reserves, and community projects. In total there are more than 14 million acres of protected land and water, including seven national parks, like Sierra de San Pedro Mártir in northern Baja, where Picacho del Diablo, the peninsula’s highest peak, rises to 10,154 feet. The rocky hike to the top is rewarded with views of the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez. Mountain bikers can get in on ocean views, too, with an exponentially growing network of trails in the mountains surrounding La Paz, Todos Santos, and Los Cabos.

But Baja’s most celebrated feature is its 2,038 miles of jagged coastline , which courts surfers, stand-up paddleboarders, sailors, scuba divers, snorkelers, paddlers, and anglers. Jacques Cousteau famously coined the Sea of Cortez, home to 800 varieties of fish, “the world’s aquarium.” Many of those species are protected in reserves like 27-square-mile Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park on the southern tip of Baja. On the Pacific side, the new, nearly three-million-acre Baja California Pacific Islands Biosphere Reserve   is a protective sanctuary for gray whales and sea turtles.

My first experience in Baja started in Tijuana with a fish-bowl sized margarita. It was 1988, and the city was festive and gritty. Its complexity intrigued me. A decade later, I hopped a flight to the pastel-hued 17th-century mission village of Loreto to find it full of Hawaiian-shirt-clad fishermen en route to compete in a tournament for dorado, marlin, and sailfish in the Sea of Cortez. I headed south to the solitude of a nine-room eco-resort (which has since closed) on a searing white-sand beach looking out on the mysterious, cacti-studded Isla Danzante.

Three years ago, my boyfriend and I rented a car to explore the southern tip of the peninsula, mountain-biking the foothills above Los Barriles, snorkeling with sea lions off Isla Espí‪ritu Santo, and eating whole grilled red snapper while sipping jalapeño margaritas at an under-the-radar restaurant on the edge of La Paz’s marina. Along the way, we found a wind-carved canyon pierced by sunlight above the Sea of Cortez and long stretches of empty Pacific white sand.

A few months ago we returned, going deeper into the peninsula, exploring a network of new mountain-bike trails, paddling the newly protected waters of the Pacific Islands Biosphere Reserve, and meeting with a young entrepreneur, Adolfo de la Peña, in the old mining community of San Antonio, where he is trying to resurrect his historic community. As quickly as things are changing in Baja, some of the best things remain the same, like that La Paz restaurant, where we returned to eat grilled red snapper. The fish was as exquisitely fresh as we remembered it.

What You Need to Know Before Visiting Baja

Prepare for warm days and cold water: The Baja sun is hot, but the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Ocean can be cold, so pack protective Buffs, hats, UPF 50, and quick-drying cover-ups. Also bring a solid pair of shoes beyond flip-flops—cactus spines are omnipresent, from the beaches to the mountain-bike trails.

Get supplemental car insurance: If you plan to drive your car into Baja, make sure it’s in prime working order. Pending how remote you plan to get, you may not be able to find replacements parts if needed. For an idea of spare parts to bring along, visit All About Baja’s  Vehicle Preparation Checklist . And be sure to buy a Mexican car-insurance policy as U.S. plans don’t work south of the border. Get a quote from  Lewis and Lewis , a company that has been selling Mexican auto insurance since 1983, from one-day to one-year policies.

Or rent a car: If you aren’t driving down yourself, unless you plan to never leave a resort, you’ll want a car to explore. Note that the minimum age for car rental is 25 years old, but some companies accept drivers 21 and older with a valid driver’s license from another country and add a surcharge to the rental fee. American car-rental agencies like Hertz and Thrifty are ubiquitous at the Los Cabos airport—and be sure to buy the Mexican rental insurance. According to Mexican law, uninsured drivers can be arrested and held for liable damages.

Drive only during the day: For three key reasons: there are wandering cows, the roads are narrow with no shoulders, and in the evening, there are a lot more big-rig cargo trucks.

Find a less expensive flight across the border: Fly to San Diego, then take a 30-minute shuttle, Uber, or taxi to the  Cross Border Xpress  (CBX) facilities, a 390-foot-long pedestrian skybridge that crosses from California into Mexico and goes directly to Tijuana International Airport. If you use the CBX service (from $16 one way, and an additional $12 one way if you use the CBX shuttle), there’s no need to enter Tijuana airport’s main departure lounge. You’ll pass through the CBX’s security and go directly to your gate. On a good day, it’s possible to reach your gate in about twenty minutes (though you should always allow for extra time pending high volume travel days and other factors). Domestic Mexican airline  Volaris offers direct flights to Loreto, La Paz, and Los Cabos, and Calafia Airlines has direct flights to Loreto and La Paz.

Check travel advisories for the region: The Baja Peninsula is safer than most of mainland Mexico, but the situation is fluid, so keep an eye on U.S. State Department travel advisories.

Do your camping homework: Unlike the U.S., camping is not strictly regulated in Baja, which has its pros and cons. You can find yourself alone on a stretch of golden sand savoring the sunset of a lifetime, but there are also fewer amenities, like toilets and trash receptacles. The best places to camp are near small coastal towns and away from mega resort corridors, like Los Cabos. Read online forums and feel out the vibe of the place before staking the tent.

What’s the Best Time of Year to Visit Baja?

January to March is prime whale-watching season and the height of tourist visits. Summer is the best time to surf and brings temperatures that can soar into the nineties. Spring (May and June) and fall (October and November) have more moderate temperatures—the seventies to eighties—and fewer crowds, but beware that the Pacific Ocean hurricane season runs mid-May through November. In the fall of 2019, the area around La Ventana was deluged with rain, which made the desert lush and green but also left roads impassable in some places. The calmest water for sea kayakers can be had from October through early December, the best time for kiteboarders and windsurfers is mid-October to early April, and anglers can try their luck year-round, depending on what they want to catch.

Where to Go in Baja

We’ve separated the peninsula into four general regions and chosen the best adventures and activities to do in each, from drinking world-class wine in Baja Norte, the official designation of the northern half of the state, to surfing off Los Cabos, at the southernmost tip. Driving the entire 775-mile-long peninsula, as many Americans do annually with their dogs, tents, mountain bikes , surfboards , and SUPs , takes a solid week.

Baja Norte 

For a great starter Baja road trip, complete with surfing, hiking, canyoneering, kayaking, and an opportunity to redefine your notion of what constitutes Mexican food, try this 346-mile loop, which starts and ends in Tijuana, going through Valle de Guadalupe and its vineyards, the coastal city of Ensenada, and the little-known Constitution of 1857 National Park along the way. Add stuffing yourself with the world’s most authentic fish tacos, and you’ve got way more fun than you can fit into a five-day outing, the ideal amount of time for an introduction to this area. Or simply choose a couple of the destinations or adventures below.

Day 1: Cross the border from San Diego into Tijuana

Tijuana is experiencing a cultural renaissance, with cutting-edge architecture, colorful murals, and a spicy food scene. Enter into Mexico at Mercado Hidalgo, a plaza flapping with Mexican flags and brimming with piñatas, sombreros, and sweet dulces . Stop for lunch at  Telefónica Gastro Park , a former vacant lot turned food-truck haven where creative eats like octopus-and-corn-fungus tacos go well with smoky cucumber margaritas. In the afternoon, meander the mural-and-graffiti-filled pasajes , or artistic corridors, of El Centro. Head to Border Psycho Brewery for a smooth cream ale, then on to 52 Kool for an explosion of traditional central-Mexico flavors and classic Baja ingredients, like seafood, quail, and organic chicken.

Day 2: Head east to Tecate and then on to Valle de Guadalupe

From Tijuana, head east on Highway 2D for 36 miles to Tecate. Stop at Restaurante Amores  in Tecate, where the husband-wife owner-chefs have impressive culinary pedigrees. Order the chile- and garlic-infused tortilla soup, garnished with octopus. From Tecate, turn south on Mexico 3, and drive 46 miles to Valle de Guadalupe. The award-winning wines in this region are the handiwork of a little-known sect of Russian Christians who planted grapes when they immigrated here in 1905. In the past decade, the valley has become Mexico’s answer to Napa, with chic tasting rooms and sleek hotels with infinity pools. At Fauna , a relaxed restaurant within the exquisite hotel Bruma , local David Castro Hussong has created an organic oasis on 200 acres of vineyards, where the stark elegance enhances the surrounding arid landscape.

Day 3: Surf in Ensenada

A tranquilo fishing port 30 miles south of Valle de Guadalupe, the surf here stretches north and south of the city, with serious waves at beaches like La Fonda, El Pico, and Stacks. Gentler breaks are farther south, at Playa Hermosa. Stop in at  Playa Hermosa Surf and Skate Shop for rentals, lessons, or to watch owner Alfredo Jaro and his crew shape boards. About 45 minutes south of the city, you’ll find La Bufadora , the second-largest marine geyser in the world. It’s a well-touristed spot, but it’s awe-inspiring to watch the salt water blow and is also a good way to scout the incredible coasteering options available alongside the rugged Pacific. Ensenada-based X Tour  offers canyoning, rappelling, hiking, kayaking, or a combination of all four in one day.

Day 4: Hike and seek wildlife in Constitution 1857 National Park

The Sierra de Juarez is 60 miles east of Ensenada on Mexico 3. An oasis for mule deer, bighorn sheep, cougars, coyotes, bobcats, and soaring falcons, the 12,380-acre forested park sits at about 5,000 feet and boasts high-alpine Hanson Lake. Hike Jeffrey Route, a two-mile loop from the visitor center. Along the path sits a representation of a Kumeyaay camp, the indigenous people who settled in what is now the southwestern U.S. and Mexico more than 12,000 years ago. Or hike to the top of Hanson Hill, the summit of which is almost 6,000 feet.

Day 5: Head back to Ensenada

Take advantage of the incredible array of fish and shrimp tacos sold at stands on nearly every Ensenada corner. They go well with the locally brewed Aguamala Astillero Imperial IPA. Tijuana is a 70-mile drive north on coast-hugging Mexico 1D.

Where to Stay in Baja Norte 

Tijuana:  One Bunk Tijuana , a 14-room boutique hotel in the center of everything, with clean, modern lines, exposed brick walls, and beds so comfortable you can sleep off an all-nighter. Doubles from $55

Valle de Guadalupe: At  Bruma , eight glass-and-wood suites surround a main living room, pool, and deck and are so organically designed that you feel immersed in the surrounding landscape. Doubles from $438

Ensenada: There’s a good array of Airbnbs here, or book an ocean-view room at Torre Lucerna , an updated old-school resort hotel with clean and peaceful rooms. From $131

Camping: There are a few gated campgrounds, like Playa Saldamando, eight miles north of Ensenada. For a more private option, drive south of Ensenada, boot up Google Earth, zoom in, and find dirt tracks that lead to any empty remote coastline, where you can camp as long as you leave no trace.

Los Cabos and Todos Santos

On the southern tip of Baja, you’ll find Los Cabos, a collective term for the town of Cabo San Lucas, to the west; the 18th-century mission village of San José del Cabo, to the east; and the 20-mile corridor of sand and rock escarpments in between. Los Cabos deserves its rap as the hub for tequila-slamming, scantily-clad spring breakers, largely because it’s easily accessed by Los Cabos International Airport. But the region still has gorgeous bones, like Cabo El Arco, the craggy rock arch that delineates where the Pacific ends and the Sea of Cortez begins, and, on the far east end of San José del Cabo, Estuary Beach, which is backed by a freshwater lagoon that harbors more than 350 species of vegetation and wildlife. In between are resorts for every budget, 11 major surf breaks, ample opportunities to watch whales or deep-sea fish for wahoo, marlin, and tuna, and culinary oases, like  Flora Farms , a 25-acre organic working farm and an open-air restaurant in the foothills of Sierra de la Laguna. For those who prefer more solitude with their sand and waves, the laid-back village of Todos Santos is about an hour’s drive north of Cabo San Lucas on Mexico 19. Beware: many beaches in Los Cabos are often closed to swimming due to deep drop-offs near the shoreline that create dangerous riptides and currents, so heed the signs. The most swimmable spots are Medano Beach, in the heart of Cabo San Lucas; Chileno Beach, in the luxury hotel zone northeast of Cabo San Lucas (and it has lifeguards on duty); and Playa Acapulquito, or Old Man’s Beach, near San José del Cabo.

What to Do in Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Find surf action for everyone in Los Cabos: From the hard-charging surfer to the adventurous family of five that wants the ultimate multisport ocean vacation, there’s something for everyone in Los Cabos. The string of breaks around Playa Costa Azul is the center of Los Cabos surf culture. Zippers, the rocky right-point break close to the beach, is home to the Los Cabos Open of Surf in June and has been part of the women’s and junior World Surf League pro tours for the past few years, while Old Man’s Beach and Pescadito are favorites for longboarders and beginners.  Costa Azul Surf School  offers rentals, lessons, and expert guides who lead excursions to lesser known breaks.

See a humpback whale breach: It’s one of the most awe-inspiring phenomena in the animal kingdom. Whales begin migrating south to the Los Cabos region in the middle of November, birth their calves in late December and January, nurse them through March and April, then begin their migration north. During this generous six-month window, take a two-and-a-half-hour Zodiac tour with  Whale Watch Cabo (from $89). It’s led by a marine biologist and is the most exciting way to see the whales as safely for them—and for you—as possible.

Go deep-sea fishing: Los Cabos has been hit hard with the illegal harvesting of billfish, so it’s imperative that you do your research on the most ethical charter company before signing up for a day of deep-sea fishing. One of the most long-standing is  Pisces Sportfishing , which started operating in La Paz in 1978 and eventually migrated south to Los Cabos. In 1995, it was honored with a Lifetime Achievement Award for Conservation by the International Game Fish Association. Since then several of its captains have been recognized with the Billfish Foundation Award for most striped marlin released worldwide. The company charters everything from 22-foot skiffs to mega yachts (from $112).

Lose the crowds in Todos Santos: This beautifully preserved 18th-century mission village an hour north of Los Cabos isn’t exactly a secret, but it’s still a nice big resort antidote, with artisan shops, boutique hotels, and Hotel California , mistakenly believed to be the inspiration for the famous 1976 Eagles song. Mountain bikers will want to stop in at Over the Edge , a full-service bike shop that rents current models and full-suspension mountain bikes and can guide riders or point them in the direction of the area’s 30 miles of hand-built trails that roll over dunes and into the foothills and show off panoramic Pacific views.

While Todos Santos is near the Pacific, it’s not actually on the Pacific. Drive west of town, and almost any road will dead-end at a dune from which you can walk the seemingly endless stretch of golden sand known as La Cachora beach. Its water is so rough that surfers gravitate five miles north of town to La Pastora, a sandy beach with fun right breaks. You’ll need four-wheel drive to get there, but it’s worth it, especially since it’s also home to the  Green Room restaurant, named for the ephemeral feel and color on the inside of a wave. The restaurant’s mezcal margaritas and smoked tuna pâté, served right on the beach, are the perfect way to wind down a busy day.

South of Todos Santos is Pescadero, a reef break close to shore, and Cerritos, a sandy-bottom beach break with the most consistent surf in Baja Sur. Los Cerritos Surf Shop rents boards at the beach from sunrise to sunset.  Mario Surf School and  Pescadero Surf Shop , in the small hamlet of El Pescadero, also offer surfboard rentals, in addition to lessons and excursions (including kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding). Fuel up for the morning with a cup or two of organic, honey-processed java and a veggie frittata with spicy Mexican salsa from  Baja Beans , an outdoor café nestled among mango trees.

Three species of endangered sea turtles nest on the beaches of Todos Santos from October through March: the olive ridley, black, and critically endangered leatherback. Help them out by volunteering with  La Sirena Eco Adventures , a nonprofit that needs people to care for hatchlings, relocate nests, clean up the beach, and guard the turtle sanctuary.

Where to Stay in Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Airbnb and VRBOs are a ubiquitous option Los Cabos—Todos Santos alone offers more than 200 VRBO listings and endless Airbnb rentals, from canvas tents to palatial beachfront haciendas.

Todos Santos:  At the end of a dirt road on isolated Punta Lobos beach, 3.5 miles south of town, the newly opened, 32-room Hotel San Cristóbal  is a throwback to simpler times, where guests gather around a bonfire at night to sip cervezas. The on-site restaurant serves locally harvested bounty, from fish caught earlier in the day to herbs and greens pulled from nearby fields. From $270

Or check out  La Sirena Eco Adventures , which offers basic, clean eco-casitas, some with fully equipped kitchens, for their volunteers. From $60

Los Cabos:  Los Milagros , a 12-room boutique hotel, is a surprisingly inexpensive and peaceful oasis in the heart of Cabo. It was founded by a cyclist who rode his bike the length of the Baja Peninsula and loved Los Cabos so much that he founded the property in 1996. The walled courtyard and trellised bougainvillea are welcome respites from the action outside. From $70

Another great option is the  Montage Los Cabos , the first Montage property to open outside the U.S. This luxurious and intimate new resort fronts a sandy crescent beach on Santa Maria Bay, which protects swimmers and snorkelers from the riptides and waves. There’s a 40,000-square-foot spa, but lounging by the exquisite infinity pool is a meditation unto itself. From $825

The East Cape and La Paz

Long the haunt of sea-loving luminaries like John Steinbeck and Jacques Cousteau, Baja’s Sea of Cortez on the east coast is a marine biologist’s dream. It’s also a wind machine from mid-November to early March for kiteboarders and windsurfers. The less traveled East Cape stretches from the marina of San José del Cabo some 90 miles north through Cabo Pulmo National Park to the gentrifying coastal villages of Los Barriles and La Ventana. Fifty miles farther north is La Paz; this city of 240,000 residents, with its hopping malecón, or seaside promenade, is the jumping-off point for the 244 protected World Heritage site islands, the largest of which is Isla Espíritu Santo. Drive 221 miles farther north and you’ll find the 17th-century mission village of Loreto, the original point from which Jesuit priests set out to evangelize the peninsula, and San Ignacio Lagoon, the winter sanctuary of the eastern Pacific gray whale. The best way to access this part of the peninsula is to fly to San Diego, cross the border to the Tijuana airport, and book a flight directly to La Paz on a regional airline. The other option is to fly into Los Cabos International Airport and rent a car. Reliable shuttles like Ecobajatours make multiple trips between the Los Cabos airport and La Paz daily.

What to Do in the East Cape and La Paz

Snorkeling and scuba diving at Cabo Pulmo National Marine Reserve: In the 1990s, local fishermen stopped commercial fishing to let the waters and reefs regenerate. Since then, the reefs have rebounded, biodiversity has increased more than fourfold, and every formerly endangered major species has rebounded. Experience the comeback by snorkeling with Cabo Pulmo Sport Center , owned by the descendents of Jesus Castro Fiol, a pearl diver who was born here in 1897 and was instrumental in creating the national marine reserve. The center’s two-and-a-half-hour tour (from $55) explores coral gardens and the sea life that lives in them. Go deeper with  Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort , whose expert instructors offer diving at 14 sites, like the 45-foot deep  El Vencedor  wreck, and possible encounters with tiger and bull sharks at the coral reef La Esperanza (from $139).

Kiteboarding and windsurfing at Los Barriles and La Ventana: November through March, it’s not uncommon for “ El Norte ” to howl down the coastline at almost 30 miles per hour, which is why the fishing villages of Los Barriles and La Ventana, 50 miles farther north, come alive with wind fanatics in the winter months. Based in the beachside  Hotel Playa del Sol (from $140),  Vela Baja is a one-stop shop for kiteboarding, windsurfing, stand-up paddling, freediving, mountain biking, and, now, foiling. The laid-back little enclave offers special foiling clinics from world-champion pros like Daniela Moroz, updated equipment rental, and a community of like-minded souls. La Ventana has a long beach with a natural arc that, thanks to the wind direction, ensures even beginners will eventually wash ashore. The hotel, restaurant, and surf school  Baja Joe’s is situated in the heart of the beach, which means instantaneous action when the wind blows. It  offers International Kiteboarding Association –certified instruction for all levels, three-day camps, equipment rentals, or storage for surfers who bring their own gear.

Mountain biking at Rancho Cacachilas: Mountain bikers head to the hills at  Rancho Cacachilas , a solar-powered adventure resort that sprawls across 35,000 acres in the Sierra Cacachilas between La Ventana and La Paz. With 24 miles of existing and 43 miles of planned International Mountain Biking Association–sanctioned singletrack on the ranch, the riding is designed for all skill levels and and offers great ocean views. There’s also 37 miles of trails for running and hiking, and the ranch offers sustainability-oriented classes like beekeeping, artisan cheesemaking, seed storage, and water collection.

Sea kayaking and snorkeling: La Paz has a three-mile-long seaside promenade that makes for fun people watching during a sunset stroll after dinner at  La Costa , a low-key seafood restaurant tucked into the marina with tables in the sand. Spend a night in the city, then launch into the Sea of Cortez to kayak, snorkel among sea lions and whale sharks, and stretch out on the sand at one of many empty beaches.  Sea Kayak Adventures offers one-to-ten-day journeys from La Paz up to Loreto and over to the Pacific Ocean’s Magdalena Bay. Trips include everything from kayaking to whale-watching to hiking. To take a deep dive into outdoor leadership and personal communication skills, sign on to one of  NOLS ’s three Baja adult expeditions, an eight-day coed or women-only coastal sailing expedition, or a seven-day women’s sea-kayaking expedition.

Surfing: The waves on   the Sea of Cortez are less consistent than the Pacific. Most breaks require a big south swell or a strong storm. If you hit the timing right, you’ll find a nice, lonely right break at Nine Palms Beach in Santa Elena Bay, about an hour east of San José del Cabo. BYO boards.

Hiking: This region of Baja has a rich human history that dates back at least 10,000 years. The aforementioned Sea Kayak Adventures offers a five-day Cowboys and Cave Paintings journey from Loreto to the Sierra de San Francisco, where guests hike to visit many of the thousands of Unesco World Heritage cave paintings of people, deer, snakes, birds, and even whales. Another great day hike between La Paz and La Ventana that offers an opportunity to interact with locals is the old, partially cobblestoned Camino Real de Santa Ana, the route miners used for 300 years to transport precious metals north to San Diego. Start at the Museo Ruta de Plata  in El Triunfo, then hike roughly five miles along the Camino to the town of San Antonio, where local Adolfo de la Peña, whose father was a miner, has started the the cooperative Las Realeños de San Antonio . You can book an appointment with Adolfo, who will guide you through the town’s mining history, complete with a hike to two nearby mines—one of which is underground—and the best local sites, including the home of Bertholita, who cooks visitors spicy empanadas and queso fresco, and a local art cooperative.

Where to Stay in the East Cape and La Paz

Cabo Pulmo:  Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort has various-size villas and bungalows, all of them clean and colorful, some with full kitchens, and most within a few steps of the beach. From $89

La Ventana:  Camping La Ventana has ten campsites and three RV sites for rent just 200 feet away from the beach, hot showers, and a washing machine. From $20

Rancho Cacachilas: Chivato Base Camp , the rustic main lodging area at the ranch, has ten cabin tents in addition to six bunk rooms that sleep two people each, plus outdoor showers, composting toilets, and a central outdoor kitchen and gathering space. Or try Los Pisos, a ranch camp higher in the mountains that offers platform safari-style tents surrounding an outdoor kitchen. From $175 all-inclusive, minimum stay two nights; open October 1 to April 30

La Paz:  Posada Luna Sol , within a few blocks of the promenade, is a delightful jumping-off point for Sea of Cortez adventures, with breakfast by the pool, a third-floor terrace with views to La Paz Bay, clean rooms, and cruiser bike rentals for $10 per day. From $55  

On the other end of the promenade, Seven Crown La Paz Centro Historico is located in the heart of La Paz’s historic district and within steps of chic new restaurants, like Marinera Poke and Seafood (try the gyozas del puerto and the pin-up margarita), and offers free breakfasts at a street-side café next door. From $73

How to Be Conscious in Baja

Go local: A common practice in Baja is for gringos to buy up rental properties, fishing charters, and yachts, then use them to provide under-the-table tourist services to other out-of-town “friends” without paying local taxes or using local guides. This depletes residents’ resources. Be sure any U.S-owned entities—from fishing guides to hacienda owners—are doing fair and honest business that benefits the locals by providing training and income and puts money back into the communities. Better yet, look for locally owned businesses and guides, like Adolfo de la Peña in San Antonio.

Speak the language: It’s always respectful to speak the language of the country you’re visiting, so study up on your rusty high school Spanish.

If camping, pack out what you pack in: Garbage collection isn’t always consistent, so keep it with you until you can find a place to properly dispose of it.

Be frugal with your water use: Baja Californians have the country’s   lowest availability of fresh water per inhabitant—785 cubic meters per year—when the Mexican  national average is 4,200, according to data from the National Institute of Statistics, Geography and Information Technology. The lack of water will become a serious issue soon, especially if resort development remains unchecked. Be conscientious of your usage, and choose lodging and outfitters who are as well.

See marine life and other wildlife in an ethical way: Baja is one of the only places in the world guests can get within close proximity to gray whales after they’ve birthed calves in the Sea of Cortez lagoons or humpback whales as they start to migrate north to cooler Pacific waters. The most ethical way to see these giants is with boat operators who give them wide berths and heed local rules, like obeying limits on the numbers of vessels allowed on the water at any given time.

Looped video (seen on the desktop version) by ianmcdonnell/Getty

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The Best 3-Week Baja Mexico Itinerary: Discover the Peninsula

This post may contain affiliate links. This just means I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you for helping them promote their product or service. I don’t endorse any services I don’t personally use or recommend.

It’s road trip time. Whether you’re driving from Southern California or renting a car in Cabo this is the definitive guide to all the best destinations in the Baja Peninsula. The perfect Baja Mexico Itinerary if you will.

Baja is a desert. But not the desolate dreary flat kind of cacti haven. This desert is brimming with palm-fringed oasis, curious coyotes, a smattering of small Mexican towns with quaint cobblestone streets, and HUGE Saguaro Cacti. The winding roads make for, albeit long, but scenic drives through the landscape and plenty of opportunities for spotting local wildlife. & I haven’t even mentioned the beaches. Stunning slices of tropical paradise with calm waters for paddle boarding, clear water for snorkeling, and soft sand for lounging.

But first, let’s get you prepared for road-tripping Mexico. If you haven’t already read my blog post detailing everything you need to know before your Baja Mexico Road Trip, be sure to head there now & give it a read.

Now that you know the basics of a Mexican road trip we can look at our Baja Mexico Itinerary. Here is the lowdown on everywhere you need to pay a visit to on the Peninsula.

The Perfect Baja, Mexico Road Trip Itinerary

Most travelers to the Baja Peninsula only visit 4-5 destinations. Sometimes the limitation is time, but sometimes they just don’t realize how incredible the small towns of Baja are & all they have to offer. This is our complete guide to the Baja Peninsula curated over several trips and more than a month spent exploring its nooks and crannies.

This entire Baja Mexico Itinerary can be done in 3 weeks. It’s better to make it 4, if time isn’t a concern, to leave room for extra exploring on your own.

Oh TJ. This city is often what scares would be road-trippers away from the idea of ever exploring Mexico. I won’t sugarcoat it. The city is a little rough. If you’re faint of heart just pass on through. But like many large metropolia packed with a variety of immigrants, the food in Tijuana is delicious if you know where to look.

Even the hot and crispy churros served from vendors wandering between cars in the border crossing line are worth eating. Here are a few of my TJ favorites.

• Telefónica Gastro Park. A massive street food park known for it’s delicious cheap eats.
• Any taco truck selling Birria de Res.
• Caesar’s . After all the Caesar salad was invented in Tijuana. Not kidding.
• Mision 19. If you’re feeling fancy and want to see exactly what Tijuana’s stellar chefs can do.

Toll Roads: Between Tijuana and Ensenada there is a beautiful stretch of perfectly (almost) paved highway. This is the Scenic Highway. It’s not only the fastest route to Ensenada but the easiest for drivers unfamiliar with Mexican roadways. It is a toll road so be prepared to pay 40 pesos ($2) three times on your way down the coastline.

Rosarito & Puerto Neuvo

These two small towns are within an hour’s drive from the US/Mexico Border and a popular weekend trip for Southern California residents. I’ve written previous blog posts detailing the best eats in Rosarito and why you should visit the famous lobster village of Puerto Nuevo as well as an overview of the road-tripping the three towns of Baja North (Rosarito, Puerto Nuevo, Ensenada). All three can be easily explored in a day or two and are a perfect introduction to the Baja Peninsula.

Ensenada is a big city that feels small. Mostly because the town center is tiny and curated specifically for tourists. Most never leave those 3 main streets. But unless you’re looking for obnoxious bars with watered-down drinks and overpriced tourist food and knick-nacks I would avoid the main street.

All liquor in Mexico is a lower alcohol content than in the United States. Usually ranging from 28%-35%. In the U.S. most range from 35%-40% alcohol. Keep that in mind before you purchase any bottles.

As far as attractions go the town is relatively barren. The construction is modern and seems disjointed from the rest of Mexico. There is a blowhole called La Bufadora about 30-minutes south of the city, but I wouldn’t say you need to make the journey.

Best Eats in Ensenada

I spent 2 days in Ensenada, mostly for eating. Okay, completely for eating. & this city has some of the best damn street food on the peninsula. Hands down, the best seafood tacos in Baja. Here’s where you have to eat.

• El Parian . This bright pink breakfast establishment is serving cheap breakfast favorites like chilaquiles, huevos ranchero, and machaca omeletes. It’s much like your favorite diner back home, just Mexican style.
• Tacos Fenix (Fish & Shrimp). If you only eat at one place I recommend make it this one. This street food stand makes the best tacos in Baja & I don’t say that lightly. Perfectly fried, right before your eyes, the shrimp and fish tacos are simple (& cheap) and can be topped with a vareity of salsas, pickled toppings, and slaws.
• La Comadre. Your non-seafood choice. Just off of mainstreet this small restaurant is a local favorite. The tacos change daily and the meat is ladled from large red clay pots into large handmade tortillas. I loved the Birria.
• Mariscos El Guero. If you’re a seafood fanatic you’re in the right place. This cevichria has plates of the freshest fish plucked from the waters of Baja. The mixed ceviche is huge and piled with squid, fish, shrimp, and uni. Definitely enough to serve two.
• Hussong’s Cantina is not known for its food. But it is the oldest bar in Baja and has a fun vibe. It’s a tourist attraction (there’s another location in Las Vegas) but if you feel like grabbing a cold beer or Margarita and being serenaded by a full Mexican band it’s a good option.

If you’re looking for a place to car-camp in Ensenada look no further. You can sleep in any free parking space. We chose the roadside near the Hotel Cortez Baja Inn.

Valle de Guadalupe

The Napa Valley of Mexico. Without the Napa Valley price tag. The Valle de Guadalupe has been gaining in both international and local reputation as a top wine destination. About an hour’s drive from Ensenada, the dusty dirt roads of Valle de Guadalupe house over 70 local wineries. Some are better than others. Most visitors stay at a lovely Airbnb or guesthouse and hire a driver to winery hop for an afternoon.

We chose a more DIY approach, driving ourselves, and only visited two wineries in the area. A word of warning: The wineries are not close together. Often, you’ll drive 20-minutes on loose dirt and narrow roadways to reach them. There’s not really a town center. Aside from the wineries, this area is pretty undeveloped.

Best Winery in Valle de Guadelupe

Definitely, Vena Cava. I know we only visited two but this winery came highly recommended to us and did not disappoint. They specialize in natural wine but have a wide selection of white, red, and a very tasty food truck in their sprawling outdoor space overlooking the vineyard. The tasting room is inside a man-made cavelike structure built from the hull of ships.

If you’re looking for a few other wineries to add to your list…

• Finca Carrodilla

Best Food in Valle de Guadalupe

Ochentos Pizza . Although technically outside the maze of wineries in “town”, this local pizza joint is truly unique. The pizza is good but the ambiance is wonderful. You’ll traverse several dirt roads and a steep cobblestoned driveway to reach it but if you visit at sunset you’ll be rewarded with views of the whole valley. There’s always live music, a small zoo of animals outside (mostly goats, ducks, and sheep), and locally crafted beer.

Now your long driving days begin. La Lobera makes for a great pit stop after driving hours through rolling hills of cacti on single-lane roads. Unfortunately, La Lobera requires a 4X4 vehicle. This sand-colored stone formation holds a pool of turquoise water and a pile of sea lions seeking refuge from the sea. It’s about 2 miles on pitted sand-covered roads to reach it though.

Last Gas Fill-Up : Get gas at the Pemex in El Rosario de Arriba. This will start the long stretch through the uninhabited desert. There are no gas stations for 250 KM. Sometimes you can find random locals selling gas from barrels on the side of the road if you’re desperate but there’s no way to guarantee it’s good gas for your vehicle. Just fill up here and you’ll be fine.

• Bahia de Los Angeles

Welcome to the warm bathwater shores of the Sea of Cortez. Bahia de Los Angeles is a small scattered town with several campable beaches where you can pull right up onto the pebbly sand. Playa La Gringa is the best of the bunch. You’ll pass by all the rest on your way to Gringa so you decide for yourself which you prefer.

This beach is great for fishing, swimming, and of course paddleboarding. Just be sure to watch out for the stingrays that are scattered all over the East Coast of Baja. Just shuffle your feet in the shallows to avoid stepping on them.

Bahia de Los Angeles is also known for Whale Shark tours during the proper season. Just inquire anywhere you see a giant sign picturing a whale shark.

Playa La Gringa is not always monitored but sometimes locals come to collect trash and ask for a donation to stay on the beach overnight. We suggest a donation of 100 pesos.

On your way into town be sure to stop at the lookout point before you descend to see the bay in all its bright blue glory. & if you’re looking for a place to nab some Sea of Cortez seafood check out Restaurant Alejandrinas .

Ojo de Liebre Lagoon

Whales. Lots of them. We skipped this Lagoon because, alas, it was not whale season. But if you want to see humpback whales on your Baja road trip (& get insanely close to them) this is the place to be.

This area is world-renowned for its freakishly friendly whales. Researchers and tourists love them.

• San Ignacio

A true oasis in the desert. This region of Baja is desolate. Scattered with hundreds of varietals of cacti, dusty towns, and an unbearably flat landscape. San Ignacio comes out of nowhere. Vibrantly green and carpeted in tall date palms offering the only shade for miles around this small city thrives alongside the life-giving river. The town square is cobblestoned and overlooked by a massive Spanish missionary church.

You won’t need more than a day to bask in the shade and eat date-flavored everything. From milkshakes to date chicken to pan datil (date bread) the date palms that shade the town drive the cuisine in the area.

I wasn’t blown away by the food in San Ignacio outside of dates. But the small breakfast joint at the foot of the church had great classic Mexican breakfast fare and at night a hot dog stand often sets up out front.

Santa Rosalia

Back on the East Coast! Santa Rosalia is a fairly large city for Baja with…you guessed it, a large lovely town center. In case you haven’t picked up on that it’s kind of a trademark for Baja. We didn’t stay too long in Santa Rosalia (because the beaches awaited us) but there are tons of street vendors selling agua frescas (juices, flavored waters, horchata) and the best bakery in Baja. It’s called El Boleo and for under 20 pesos you can snag some of the tastiest local Baja pastries. My favorites were topped with pineapple.

This is the beginning of Baja’s best beaches. Well, 30-minutes south of here anyways. Mulege is not a beach town. It is, however, a popular tourist town due to its tasty local restaurants, close proximity to colorful canyons decorated with ancient cave paintings, and a scenic mission (church) overlooking a carpet of verdant palms.

Best Mulege Restaurants & Attractions

• Mulege Brewing Company. For a few beers.
• Dany Restaurant. The best food in town. Also heavily air conditioned.
• Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulege . A scenic overlook worth the short drive out of town.
• Faro de Mulege. Scenic lighthouse by the water.
• Restaurant Bar Los Equipales. Another great restairnat. They serve a lot of Machaca, however. Be aware that Machaca is dried beef. Not for everyone’s palate.

I recommend parking near the lighthouse directly on the beach. It’s not a good beach for swimming or other water activities but it’s outside the bustle of town and safe enough to sleep with all your doors open.

Best Beaches Near Mulege

I would venture to say that these particular beaches are not only the best in Mulege but the best in all of Baja. Crystal clear water, soft beige sand, tropical fish, and camping directly on the sand. It doesn’t get better than that. Positioned on the Bay of Conception these sands are even more protected from the mild waves of the Sea of Cortez than anywhere else.

Accessible via dirt pull-offs from the main highway you’ll often see the beaches coming. These are the names of a few favorites.

Playa Santispac

It costs 200 pesos for the night but this beach is completely protected from the waves. Great for early morning paddleboarding or kayaking. You can also easily reach Hidden Beach, also known as Playa Escondida, from here.

Playa La Escondida

Not to be confused with “hidden beach” this stretch of sand is further south. A crescent-shaped bay with turquoise waters and thatched huts offer a little shade for beach-goers.

Playa el Burro

One of the more developed beaches in the area. The shores are crowded with thatched homes for rent on Airbnb and don’t leave much room for van parking. This beach is great for a swim but if you’re looking to van camp I would opt for one of the others.

Playa el Coyote

Another great option for camping. Also offers some thatched huts for shade and is a favorite of the locals which typically means you’ll be sharing the sand with families BBQ-ing and blasting music into the evening.

One of my biggest disappointments was not getting to fully experience the city of Loreto. It was simply too hot for us to try and stay. From what I hear this big beachy town offers a lot in terms of marine exploration.

If you’re looking for a complete guide to Loreto click the link here .

This is one of the oldest and best-preserved missions in the Baja region. The same cannot be said about its roads. Getting to the summit of the small mountain and wandering the quaint streets is worthwhile IF you are very confident in your driving skills and maybe have either high clearance or 4WD.

San Carlos is much like the rest of the Baja west coast. Slightly charmless. But you’re not here for the town. You’re here for the whales. Visit during whale season and this is a bustling hub filled with open restaurants and street food. Outside of whale season, it’s a ghost town.

You’ll have to book a tour to see them properly but this is the home base for exploring Magdelena Bay.

Pit Stop: In the nearly non-existent town of La Pasadita is a roadside empanada and burrito shack sitting right next to an OXXO. Do yourself a favor and stop in for lunch. You get two bean burritos & a fresh juice for 50 pesos. The fresh empanadas are phenomenal as well.

No argument La Paz is my favorite city on the Baja Peninsula. It’s also the largest and most frequented by local tourists. It has the prettiest white sand beaches, local farmer’s markets, a foodie scene, and lovely sunsets on the Malecon. It’s easy to get overwhelmed in La Paz because of its sheer size but I recommend focusing your efforts on the region near the waterfront, also known as Zona Central. The surrounding area of La Paz has fewer restaurants and walking streets and is far more industrial.

Best Attractions & Food in La Paz

• Doce Cuarenta Coffee & Bakery. If you’re looking for an LA quality coffee shop with tasty guava pastries. Expect US prices.
• Tortas la Ventana. Local cheap sandwhich stop.
• Sanctuary of Our Lady Guadalupe. Scenic catholic church with a picturesque dome.
• Museum of Art. If that’s your kind of thing.
• Il Rustico. Authentic Italian thin crusted pizza joint with massive calzones and lovely garden seating perfect for date night in La Paz. Seriously, I wouldn’t recommend you get pizza in Mexico if it wasn’t out of this world good.
• Bismark-Cito: The Lobster House. Ocean front views and amazing seafood.
• The Malecon. Stroll the seaside street enjoying the marine themed monuments and perfect sunset spots. Also the street art La Paz is known for.
• Farmer’s Market: Thursday’s and Saturday’s near the Malecon.
• Playa Balandra. This is the best beach in Baja. Perfect white silk sand, unbelieveable water clarity and filled with marine wildlife, you have to try snorkeling at this beach. It’s also famous for an oddly shaped rock but I found that much less impressive than the beach itself. Plan to arrive early (6AM) if you want to score a parking spot. There’s also a short hike that offers great panoramic views of the entire bay.
• Playa el Tecolote . A good back-up if Balandra is too full. Tecolote has many loud beach restaurants and choppy waves hitting shore but it also is a haven for pelicans early morning. Arrive early to watch them diving for fish in the hundreds.

La Paz is famous for its chocolate clams. Don’t freak out just yet, it’s not candied seafood. It’s just a varietal of clam. Large chocolate brown shells bursting with chewy clam meat. You can eat them raw or grilled but you have to give them a shot at least once in La Paz.

• Todos Santos

Once a hippy haven this town is quickly turning commercial. That’s not to say I didn’t love my time spent there, it’s just not the quiet surfer bohemian town it once was. Now it’s got more of an LA hipster vibe. Lots of art boutiques, expensive souvenirs, and fancy upscale restaurants and hotels crammed into a tiny seaside fishing village.

Best Attractions & Food in Todos Santos.

• Choripanes. The best $2.50 sandwich you’ll ever find. Smoked sausages paired with fresh grilled panela cheese, tomatoes, onions, salsa, and chimmichuri.
• Frutas y Verduras “Mi Gente”. The best shop to grab some cheap fresh produce for beach snacks.
• Late-Night Street Food. The town park sidewalks crowd with vendors selling hotdogs, tacos, agua frescas, and my personal favorite tostilocos (chips topped with salsa, fresh corn, and cheese).
• Tortugueros Las Playitas. During hatching season this turtle conservation group allows tourists to help participate in the turtle release programs each evening. It’s a personal bucketlist item of mine to release a baby turtle into the ocean one day.
• Punta Lobos. This is a fishing beach. Huge crashing waves and LOTS of locals drinking, eating, and getting thier cars stuck in the sand. At around 4 PM you can buy fish to cook straight off the beach here. I enjoyed the laid back vibe but it’s not a particularly quiet place to sleep.
• San Pedrito Beach. A longtime favorite of vanlifers this beach is the best in the area for privacy and quiet camping.
• Cerritos Beach. You’ll have to pay for parking and it’s the bussiest beach in the area but it also has a restroom, surfboard rentals, and vendors selling fresh seafood and fruit on the sand. There’s a reason for it’s crowds.

Reaching these beaches from Todos Santos requires driving on sandy dirt roads. You don’t need 4WD, but be cautious.

Cabo San Lucas

If I’m sharing my own personal opinions here…Cabo sucks. Unless you are here for Spring Break or a Bachelor/Bachelorette party there’s nothing for you to do in Cabo. The food is mediocre and expensive, there’s nowhere to car camp, and it’s filled with drunken tourists. Sure you can see the famous sandstone arches but you’ll have to pay through the nose to get there. & all the best beaches IN Cabo are crowded and only accessible by an expensive boat tour.

Instead, skip it and head to Santa Maria Beach.

Just North of Cabo, this gem of a beach is free to visit and has some of the best snorkeling in Baja just off its shores. We cheated and entered the electric blue waters with a slice of white bread that was quickly devoured by tropical fish the size of my head. You can’t stay overnight but it’s definitely worth a day trip.

• San Jose del Cabo

The other Cabo. San Jose del Cabo isn’t known for its two-for-one margaritas, however. Instead, San Jose del Cabo boasts art boutiques, a cobblestoned walking district with colorful pennants flapping in the wind, and Baja Brewing Company (the best beer in Baja, sorry Tecate) . There are plenty of other travelers here but not typically of the van variety. It’s a higher class kind of tourism and often the prices reflect that.

Where to wild camp: On the outskirts of town is a hidden local sunset spot called La Playita. You can park atop the small cliff overlooking the dark sand and waves below for epic sunset and sunrise views.

Warning! The road to Nine Palms is no longer public. Even with a 4WD vehicle you’re not technically allowed to traverse that section of coastline. Which means you’ll be required to drive toward Santa Anita instead. As of 2021

Blink and you’ll miss this quaint town. For this adventure, you’ll need either some ballsy driving skills or a 4WD vehicle. Accessible from this small farming community is Sol de Mayo also known as Rancho Ecologico Sol de Mayo. After traversing the treacherous roads up the canyon to Cañon de la Zorra you’ll find a small petting zoo area with a cascading waterfall perfect for chasing away the heat of the day with a cool dip. Along the way, you’ll also be rewarded with panoramic views of the palm-fringed town smack dab in the middle of the desert.

Just follow the roadside signs to “Cascade” & you’ll find your way.

As I mentioned above, the road South of Cabo Pulmo is closed to the public forcing you to enter via the North entrance. But for those willing to wander off-the-beaten-path you’ll be rewarded with the best snorkeling in Baja. This protected swath of reef is difficult to reach and therefore in pristine condition. To visit the National Park you’ll need to pay park fees and hire a snorkel or scuba guide to swim on the reef.

Los Barriles

Fun Fact: Los Barriles is the number one kite surfing destination in all of North America. It’s kinda a big deal. Upon arrival, you’ll be greeted by gale-force winds and take one look at the impossibly long and flat stretch of beach and you’ll understand why. For non-kite surfers, there is plenty to do in the area as well. For starters, shopping. I’m not a big shopper but Los Barriles has some great locally made goods like woven plant holders, indigenous masks, and rugs.

If adventure is more your thing ATVs are big here. There are tons of rental shops offering ATVs for reasonable prices that you can take barreling down the beach.

Both times I was in Baja, Mexicali was over 110 degrees (F). So I didn’t go. But I highly recommend you add Mexicali to your itinerary on your way out of Mexico. The border crossing lines are shorter and you’ll get to see an entire new chunk of roadway rather than repeating the toll road from Ensenada to Tijuana.

On the road to Mexicali, you’ll pass through the beach town of San Felipe. I didn’t get to go but I had Playa Hawaii on my “must-see” list. If you pay it a visit I would love to hear how it is. The photos are all of crystal clear blue water (like the rest of the east coast) and wide-open beach parking.

Planning your Baja Mexico Itinerary

The Baja Peninsula doesn’t have a lot of roadways traversing its desert landscape. This means if you don’t plan your route carefully you’ll end up stopping in the same towns you explored on your trip down South. You should plan to hit about half your destinations on the way down to Cabo and then half on your return trip up the Peninsula, that way you don’t have endlessly long drives punctuated with stops in towns you’ve already seen. You gotta break it up a bit.

Here’s where we slept on our way down the Peninsula.

• Loreto (Nearby Beaches)
• San Jose Del Cabo

& here’s where we slept on the way back to the United States.

• Mulege (nearby beaches)
• Ojo de Liebre

This way the drives were broken up more evenly. Because those long desolate roads get mind-numbingly boring otherwise.

Map of Baja Mexico Itinerary

Only Have 2 Weeks?

If you only have two weeks to road trip the Baja Peninsula I recommend focusing on Baja California Sur. An example Baja Mexico itinerary would be…

Consider Vanlife for Baja Mexico

If you’ve been waiting for your sign to convert a campervan for epic trips all over the US, Canada, and Mexico. This is it .

Since we built our van in 2020 for under $4,000 ( here’s how ) we’ve traveled to nearly every single national park in the United States , traversed the Baja Peninsula, and circled the US looking for the best “American” foodie stops . It’s been the cheapest and easiest way to traverse the United States and I recommend it to anyone with the work flexibility to give it a shot.

Fun Fact: Utah & Florida were our favorite states for vanlife.

Here’s how you can get on the road in 6-weeks.

Invest in a Comprehensive Van Build Guide

Building a van is overwhelming. It often involves countless hours scouring Youtube, blog posts, and facebook groups looking for semi-helpful information. It’s a huge project and when we first purchased our van we didn’t even know where to begin. What van layout should we choose? How do I build everything from scratch (from window covers to shelving)? Should I choose sheep wool insulation or polyiso boards? & these are just the easy questions. Katie & Ben from Two Wandering Soles provide the answers. They created these super neat van build breakdowns to help guide us through the process.

& if you’re a first-time builder I highly recommend their complete van conversion academy.

Investing in Van Conversion Academy Includes…

• Clear blueprints for all the most complicated van systems (I’m talking about you electrical) complete with online shopping lists where you can purchase the  exact  parts you need. 
• Tons of layout options to choose from. They even provide exact blueprints and measurements that you can copy for multiple van designs!
• Access to an exclusive Facebook group of fellow builders where you can ask all the questions your heart desires. 
• A COMPLETE step-by-step walk-through on how to build your van from fan installation to sub-flooring to sound dampening to water and propane. They’ve thought of everything including what the most common pitfalls are with each step and how to avoid them. 
• Lifelong access to ALL this content. & loads more I won’t cover here.

If you invest in ONE thing before you begin your vanbuild, make it this master course. Katie and Ben helped us build our dream van and whether or not you spring for a Sprinter (we didn’t) or something more budget-friendly they will make sure you get the results you want before hitting the road.

Or just check out my vanlife page for more inspiration.

Save This Baja Mexico Itinerary For Later!

Further Reading...

3 Towns Worth Road-Tripping in the Baja Peninsula of Mexico

Why You Should Visit Puerto Nuevo: Mexico’s Lobster Village

Your Complete Guide To an Epic Baja Peninsula Road Trip

Becky Atkinson

Thanks so much for all the valuable information you have provided! I will be taking my first drive down to Baja in March and staying gone a couple of months or more. I have a home in Los Bareilles and always fly BUT NOT THIS TIME BABY!! I’m Baja Guuuurrrl now. Lol 😆

I have a question. My family and I want to travel baja this summer…I am a teacher and can’t really take time off other parts of the year. My husband races in Baja and assures me we’ll survive, but after reading your post about the sweltering weather I’m worried. We are going to tent-in with a new black out tent to help with the heat. We are driving from Tahoe and hoping to make it to Muleje to spend most of our time. We have 10 days. Wondering about your thoughts on this? Thanks!

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Why You Should Road Trip Beautiful Vermont In Fall

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YOUR ADVENTURE

Cave Paintings

Whale Shark

Sandboarding

07 jun All Day CONFERENCIAS EN FLOR Festival

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June 7, 2024 All Day (GMT-07:00)

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04 jul All Day 07 Centenario Caesar's Festival

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The ultimate Baja California road trip guide

Oct 27, 2020 • 6 min read

While traveling to Ensenada be sure to spend at least a day in Valle de Guadalupe © Jorge Malo Photography / Getty Images

Baja California evokes a rugged, wild west kind of adventure. Stretching some 760 miles south from the US border, this Mexican peninsula is a land of compelling contrasts — a dry, mostly desert geography with hidden enclaves of lush vineyards, jagged mountains and solemn cactus forests bordered by crystalline waters and wide sandy beaches.

Baja is at once a sparsely-populated no man’s land, and home to thousands of species of marine life and millions of vacationing tourists. Here's what you need to know for the ultimate Baja California road trip. 

The Free and Sovereign State of Baja California

Estado Libre y Soberano de Baja California , the aptly grandiose official name of Baja’s northern state.

Removed from the Mexican mainland, Baja California has evolved its own distinct aesthetic and culture. From low-key towns with just the right amount of civilization to unmarked dusty roads awaiting exploration, Baja has a charm that keeps those who know coming back for more.

The peninsula is divided into two states: Baja California in the north and Baja California Sur below the 28th parallel. 

The infamous border town has finally grown into its own. A growing middle-class and burgeoning cultural scene has helped turn this former hedonism destination into a Mexican city with its own identity.

With an international airport, a solid bus system and many rental car options – along with its proximity to major US cities like San Diego and Los Angeles – Tijuana is the most convenient starting point for a Baja adventure.

But first, take a moment to get to know TJ (its local nickname). Stroll down Av Revolucion for Mexican nightlife options like Las Pulgas , sample local craft beers at Norte Brewing Co , and perhaps most importantly, chow down on spicy tacos or fresh seafood at one of the city’s many street vendors. Beyond the tourist trinkets and margarita-callers near the border, Tijuana has a vibrant food and culture scene worth exploring.

Expert tip: If you have some extra time, take a quick cab ride out to Playas de Tijuana. This beach suburb offers a lively local experience, with family picnics, seafood cocktails, and a close-up view of the US-Mexico border wall as it trails off in the Pacific.

Once you’ve given Tijuana a go, turn your attention south. Baja awaits.

A 2-hour drive down the Pacific coast you’ll find Ensenada . A major port town and vacation destination, Baja California’s third-biggest city is a good example of the state’s varied character. Arriving in town you feel the transition – from the border region’s hectic and often hard urban life, to a more relaxed Mexico.

Ensenada has an impressive waterfront promenade ( malecón in Spanish), a serious fishing and seafood scene, and a lively nightlife. Pass by Hussong’s , a cantina that’s been around since the 1890s, for mariachi. For freshly-caught seafood, stroll through the Mercado Negro fish market, or head a few streets off the main strip to Tacos Don Zefe for tasty fish tacos.

Expert tip:  Ensenada is a great home base from which to access Mexico’s biggest winemaking region. Valle de Guadalupe is a lush valley and wine-tasting hot-spot. There’s a growing selection of vineyards at affordable prices and tours can be easily booked from Ensenada.

The Road South – Baja California Sur

After Ensenada, Baja California’s remote and unsettled side begins to show itself. And it’s where most travelers must make choice – how to get south?

If traveling by car, the famous one-lane Highway 1 is a spectacular winding road with epic views. It can be slow-going and there are stretches of hundreds of miles with nothing but stoic cacti, tiny fishing villages and empty coastline. Leave early and plan your fuel stops carefully.

The bus system works quite well, with many options leaving from Tijuana or Ensenada. Travel times to Baja Sur range from 10-20 hours depending on your destination.

Expert tip: At about the halfway point of the peninsula, there are worthwhile stops like San Ignacio for its lovely lagoon and world-class whale watching; Mulegé for a lush oasis and white sand beaches; and Loreto for a time-machine colonial town.

The capital of Baja Sur, La Paz , like Ensenada, is an example of a major city that has maintained its smaller-town Baja feel.

With a charming malecón and a seafside main strip, La Paz is a relaxing vacation alternative to uber-touristy Cabo San Lucas. La Paz is the launching pad for Isla Espiritu Santo , one of the 244 islands that form a Unesco biosphere reserve famous for its overwhelming selection of marine life (French explorer Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortez “the world’s aquarium”).

Expert tip: La Paz is also an ideal location for day trips, with windsurfing mecca Los Barilles and many secluded beaches within a 1 to 2-hour drive.

Todo Santos

Imagine a mix of sleepy Mexican village and chic Southern California boutique hotel, where dusty roads and charming cobblestone share the same block. Sprinkle some yoga studios and art galleries, with beat-up pickup trucks off-roading on deserted beaches – and you begin to get a picture of Todos Santos .

The latest destination for well-off artsy types, Todos Santos is part manicured tourist town, part rustic Baja escape. Deemed a Pueblo Mágico (magical town) by the Mexican government Todos Santos, despite intense gentrification, manages to blend high-end options with a laid-back vibe.

People who love it, love it a lot. You’ll find many Americans living here full-time or coming down for the season. There’s no shortage of pricier hotels and restaurants, with kale smoothies readily available.

Budget travelers generally have a hard time in Todos, but a family-run hostel has finally opened up, with Todos Santos Hostel offering dorms and cozy glamping options in a relaxed surfer/artist atmosphere. For quality pub fare and friendly locals, check out Chill N’ Grill where you’ll always find an ex-pat ready to gush over Todos Santos’ charm.

For those looking for a truly amazing experience check out Todos Santos Eco Adventures  . Owned and operated by husband and wife duo Sergio & Brian you can find all your sustainable adventure needs in one place. They can take you to a remote island for glamping where you can sleep under the stars by night and paddle board with sea turtles by day. They can take you birding and whale watching and basically help you enjoy the Baja in all its natural glory in an intimate, friendly and sustainable way. Plus the food is amazing too. 

Expert tip: About 15 minutes down the main road you’ll find San Pedrito and Los Cerritos beach , well-known surf destinations in a picturesque yet raw Pacific setting.

You might also like: 

Mexico's best off-the-grid beaches   Mexico's 10 best beaches   Canada and Mexico extend border restrictions with the US  

This article was originally published in May 2019 and updated in October in 2020. 

This article was first published May 24, 2019 and updated Oct 27, 2020.

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RVing Baja, Mexico: Road Trip to Paradise

Flanked by the big surf of the Pacific ocean and the tranquil Sea of Cortez, with three mountain ranges and a cactus-studded desert running up the middle, Baja is what camper dreams are made of! With basically one main road escorting you to the big highlights and a few dozen spurs into unspoiled wilderness, it’s as easy or adventurous as you want it to be.

Even though we have spent extensive time in Mexico ( housesitting , vacationing, even road tripping ) and consider this country one of our favorites in the world, we were a little nervous about RVing Baja. This is in part because Mexico is often portrayed as “dangerous” in the news, but also because we didn’t know if our slapdash RV style would fly. We wild camp in the middle of nowhere, drive well past sunset, and own a vehicle you could break into with a can opener. When we realized these were our own problems and ones we could easily fix, it was time to discover the Baja magic!  

Table of Contents

Our Baja Road Trip Route

Bahía Concepción has some of the prettiest beaches and not a single chain hotel! Driving from the Pueblo Mágico of Loreto there is a bit of a lull, but when you reach the city of La Paz and its surrounding islands and mountains, it’s wondrous all over again. Greater La Paz was even worth hopping out of the camper for a few days of island glamping on Espíritu Santo and a rancho homestay in the Sierra de La Laguna. (If you want to carry on farther south, check out this blog from a previous trip around Los Cabos ). Read on for our favorite tips from roads less traveled.  

Baja Camping 101

Let’s start with the basics of camping in Baja. The average cost of an ocean-view campsite is around $7 and quite often free. To discover them, start by downloading the iOverlander app . This led us to a variety of gems, from secluded sand dunes to family-owned restaurants that let you stay in exchange for buying a burrito. The app also maps out where to find propane, fresh water, showers, dump stations, and more with their handy filters. If you like the social aspect of camping, check out the VanLife app or Xscapers to connect with fellow adventurers. FYI, camping on our own always felt totally safe and serene. To help make this happen, we didn’t drive after dark, read the comments for each iOverlander listing, and stopped going down dirt roads if rain was in the forecast (after we LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY !).

Tecate Border Crossing

Instead of entering Mexico via the busy Tijuana crossing, we went 45 minutes inland to Tecate. This town is not just the home of Tecate brewery, but it is a Pueblo Mágico, (a special designation for Mexico’s most culturally rich and historic towns). There was one car in line and when it was our turn, the officer only asked for our car registration (not even our license or passports!) and to take a glance inside the camper before he sent us on our way. While we kept driving to make sunset in wine country, we would recommend staying a night in Tecate to get your Mexican bearings and enjoy its traditional town square, 1,500-year old cave paintings, and tour the peninsula’s most beloved brewery.

Valle de Guadalupe: Wine Country Camping

Highway 3 carries on through beautiful mountain passes to Valle de Guadalupe’s “Ruta del Vino.” The region has been making wine for over 100 years, but the industry only started booming 20 years ago. Today there are more than 150 wineries, making it the “Tuscany of Mexico.”

For our first night in the country, we seized the opportunity to use our Harvest Hosts membership and camp at a winery (free of charge in exchange for buying a bottle). We pulled into L.A. Cetto just as the sun was hitting the mountains and casting its glow on their 4,000 acres of vines. Save from a security guard looking after the place (gracias, señor!), we had the entire place to ourselves. The next day we were happy to repay one of the country’s oldest and largest wineries with a tour and tasting. We’d also recommend Las Nubes and Bar Bura, not just for their wine but for their views of this gorgeous region.

Punta Banda: Hot Springs & Marine Geysers

Less than an hour south of Ensenada (home of the original fish taco and Baja’s oldest cantina, the great Hussong’s), lies our favorite sliver of the far north: Punta Banda peninsula. It is full of natural wonders, starting with their hot spring beach! At low tide, you can see steam rising from the sand—those are your hot spots and where you want to start digging. We plunged our shovel (see our Baja packing list below) and 100-degree water bubbled up! In just fifteen minutes, we had a natural jacuzzi with views to the bluffs! Could Punta Banda get any better? It did.

At the tip of peninsula, we found Campo El Mirador , a campground on a mountain spine that drops to the sea and the famed La Bufadora marine geyser. At high tide, this blowhole shoots water up to 90 feet in the air! From your campsite, it’s a gorgeous hike through coastal succulent gardens and free when you arrive by foot! Hot Springs Intel : There is no name or sign for Punta Banda’s hot springs. This is what RVing Baja is all about! To get there, follow these GPS coordinates (31.7167, -116.6661) and park at the mini mart (good to buy some cervezas from them to earn your spot). On the right, there is unassuming long narrow path between properties that leads down to this delightful public-access beach!

The Otherworldly Desierto Central

Baja’s tourists generally stick close to the border and Los Cabos in the far south, but little do they know that Baja’s most iconic beauty lies in the middle. The Valle de los Cirios is the second largest protected natural area in Mexico, spanning from coast to coast all way to the state line with Guerrero Negro. Towns vanish and cacti are the new skyscrapers. Fifty-foot tall cardons, Dr Suess-like cirios plants, pink barrel cacti, and boulders are strewn about the sierras.

The first sign of civilization you’ll encounter is one created 1,000 years ago by the Cochimí people at the incredible Cataviña cave paintings. We took the short, steep hike and ducked into the ancient art gallery. Spared from wind and rain, the ceiling retained its vibrant depictions of dancers, animals, and geometric motifs. Rather than hike back the way we came, we climbed down the backside to the river valley for some fun rock scrambling among this palm-tree oasis.

Connectivity Tip : There is no cell service between El Rosario and Guererro Negro. Hotel Mision Cataviña offers WiFi by the hour, plus a decent restaurant, bathrooms, and a beautiful cactus garden.

Ojo de Liebre: Communing with Gray Whales

In addition to warm weather, gorgeous scenery, and fantastic people, the reason we came to Baja, Mexico is for the one-of-a-kind whale watching. Each winter hundreds of gray whales migrate from their feeding grounds in the Arctic to their breeding grounds in Baja. They come to birth and raise their calves in three Pacific lagoons: Magdalena Bay, San Ignacio, and Ojo de Liebre. With whale hunting a thing of the past, generations of whales have come to see boats and humans as a chance for friendly interactions. It seems unbelievable but mothers actively encourage their babies to approach panga boats!

So excited by this prospect, we seized the first whale-watching opportunity on our route. Leaving from Guerrero Negro with Mario’s Tours ($50 for three hours, plus lunch), eight of us hopped in a little boat and cruised along the sand dunes until we got to Ojo de Liebre. We saw whales spouting off in every direction and with patience, a mother and calf came to play with us for 25 minutes ( and we caught it on video !). Spyhopping and diving just inches from our boat, this was by far the most intimate whale encounter we have ever had. Though speaking of intimate, we later saw three whales rolling around in a courtship ritual!

Whale Watching Tip : While we loved our experience out of Guerrero Negro, the town of San Ignacio is a much cuter basecamp (a Spanish colonial charmer) and supposedly their lagoon has even friendlier whales!

Don’t Miss These Spanish Missions

Heading out to the Sea of Cortez, incredible Spanish colonial missions begin to appear. Starting with Misión San Ignacio Kadakaamán, you’ll drive alongside gorgeous palm-lined lagoons and this stone beauty from 1728 appears in the heart of San Ignacio village. At the start of Bahía Concepción, the expat haven of Mulegé is great for getting gringo comforts and propane refills and, of course, its mission. Tucked high above town and up a snaking side street, it’s easy to miss but well worth the efforts to see this foreboding structure overlooking the river and sea. (Interesting fact, it doubled as a stronghold in defeating the invading Americanos during the Mexican-American War of 1846-1848.)

Farther south, the 17th-century Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó is the first mission the Spanish built in the region, making it mother of all Baja and Alta California missions. If you have the time, Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-Biaundó is an hour off the main road from Loreto and supposedly the prettiest of them all!

Santa Rosalía: French Baja

Santa Rosalía is the first real town when Highway 1 hits the Sea of Cortez, and while it’s far from the prettiest, it is the quirkiest. It was started by a French mining company in 1884 so the architecture is unlike anywhere on the peninsula, with its ornate wooden homes and a metal church designed by none other than Gustave Eiffel of Paris tower fame. The owner of the mining company, snatched it up after its appearance in the World’s Fair and had it flat packed on a boat to Baja to bring some religious sophistication to town. He also made sure they had a quality French bakery—the one and only, El Boleo. We followed our nose to this institution and a worker motioned us over for a behind-the-scenes tour of their pastry chefs making the original recipes in the 19th-century stone ovens.

Bahía Concepción: The Best of Baja RV Beach Camping

When you see those idyllic photos of Baja with turquoise waters, cactus-studded islands and white-sand beaches, it’s probably somewhere along Bahía Concepción. While there are surprisingly few tourists, there are few enclaves of snowbirds that have it all figured out. When we got to Playa Santispac, this beach cove dotted with islets took our breath away, as did the volume of RVers. We would normally be turned off by such a crowd and $10 camping fee, but something interesting was happening here. This was a world unto itself where over 100 retirees set up camp for months at a time, completely cut off from the outside world, with nothing but this stunning beach, the facilities of their RVs, and one rocking bar.

After a glorious kayak around the islands, we walked the beach chitchatting with people from Alberta, Michigan, and virtually every cold weather region in North America. Then the music sparked up! Turns out, the original Van Halen drummer winters down here and he’s formed a solid local band. We may have been 25 years younger than anyone at this party, but they were dancing us under the table until Baja Midnight (9pm) and rewriting the definition of a retirement community. For something more chill along Bahía Concepcion, Playa El Requesón is a stunning spit that fans into two coves and beaches like Playa Armenta are plenty beautiful for the price of free.

Kayaking Bahía de Loreto National Park

            View this post on Instagram                         A post shared by Mike & Anne – HoneyTrek.com (@honeytrek) on Mar 8, 2020 at 1:31am PST

The town of Loreto is a tourist favorite with its ancient mission, ficus-tree archways, margarita happy hours…but to us, it’s all about the Bahía de Loreto National Park. This UNESCO biosphere reserve and Mexico’s largest marine preserve is ripe for island hopping, scuba diving, and kayaking. For a self-guided kayak adventure, we honed in on Isla Coronado, a volcanic island with beach coves, rock scrambling, reptile spotting (16 species!) and sand spits too shallow to be reached by motor boats.

In the protected bay there was very little wind so we cruised alongside the birds, fishies, and bobbing sea turtles. After three miles of paddling, we reached the white sand beach, without a soul on it, and hiked the black boulders to the ridge. On the way home, our arms were feeling the burn, but a sandbar island and the lunch in our drybag kept us motivated. Our craft skidded ashore, feeling like this low-tide island only emerges for adventurers like us. Kayaking Tip : For the put-in spot, follow signs to “La Picazon” restaurant and have faith that the long dirt road will get you to a good parking spot (GPS: 26.0897, -111.3256) and a short path down to the beach.

The Road Angels of Lonchería Lupita

After Bahía de Loreto, Highway 1 does a massive S-curve into the desert abyss until it swoops back out to the Sea of Cortez, and even though it’s not the most interesting stretch, we had one of our favorite cultural experiences here. It was getting dark so we consulted iOverlander and they listed “Lonchería Lupita” as a roadside cafe that’s friendly to RVers. We arrived as they were closing but instead of turning us away, the family invited us into their personal kitchen for an off-menu burrito feast complete with a mountain of steamed veggies (a vegan dream!).

While Lupita was preparing dinner, Mike and her grandson invented games with a ball and a box, while I enjoyed a chat with the patriarch. Then, in walks the daughter with her eight-day-old baby. Even though she’d only known us a few minutes, she put her newborn in my arms as if we were part of the family.

La Paz Carnaval

We reached the vibrant city of La Paz, just in time for Carnaval! It’s said to be one of biggest pre-Lent celebrations in the country, so if you’re arriving in February, try to align your trip with the festivities ( dates here ). This five-day festival takes over the malecón (seaside promenade) with parades, bands, rides, games, and countless food stalls. With our expat friend Kristen Gill as an accomplice, we dove head first into the carnaval revelry. We cheered on the parade, sampled junk food, drank the legendary Doble Canalas (beer, clamato, and vodka), danced at every bandstand, and rode the swirling swings for 360-views over town.

Bahía de La Paz: Snorkeling with Whale Sharks

Every winter upwards of 100 adolescent whale sharks come to feed in the Bay of La Paz. While this happens in various locations around the world, this is one of the most accessible and responsibly managed destinations for these wildlife encounters (read: no feeding or crowding). We went on a full-day boat trip with RED Travel , a Baja leader in sustainable tourism, and it exceeded our expectations. To make sure the whale sharks have ample space, a limited amount of boats can be in the sanctuary at any time. The good news is, “waiting your turn” means a boat trip into the archipelago to see rare birds like the blue-footed boobies, the San Rafaelito sea lion colony, and Balandra Beach (known to be one of Mexico’s most beautiful).

After a whale shark orientation by our brilliant young guide and biologist, Andrea Quintero, we were ready to swim with the world’s largest fish. The main rule is to stay out of their path (as docile as they are, they move like freight train). We swam alongside a baby, then a 25-footer, marveling at their gorgeous spotted skin, swishing fins, and the symbiotic fishes hitching a ride.

Swimming with Dolphins in Bahia de La Paz

As if our wildlife encounters couldn’t get better, a pod of dolphins was diving around our boat and our guide asked, “Want to swim with them?” With a heck yea, we dove back in and were eye-to-eye with a half dozen bottlenose beauties! To end the perfect day, we docked on a deserted beach for ceviche (cod or quinoa style), cervezas, and sunbathing. See this incredible day on film, here .

Glamping Isla Espíritu Santo

Featured in our book Comfortably Wild: The Best Glamping Destinations in North America , Camp Cecil earns its spot in the “Safari” chapter and our hearts. During our three days on the island we cruised alongside dolphins, swam with baby sea lions, and spotted birds rarely seen outside of the Galapagos. Better yet, whenever we sailed or paddled back to camp, fine food and fabulous tents awaited us with big smiles. Watch this video —it’s time to go glamping Baja style!

Ranchero Culture in the Sierra de la Laguna

The Sierra de La Laguna is also a UNESCO biosphere reserve, recognized for its contrasting ecosystems and volume of endemic species. Our two favorite tour operators Todos Santos Eco Adventures and RED Travel both offer trips here. As tempting as it was to try the brand new Camp Cecil de La Sierra glamp camp, we were excited to try an overnight trip with RED and learn more about their Mexican culture and reforestation programs. We arrived to the fourth-generation Mesa family ranch and were welcomed with a vegetarian feast. Sitting on their terrace, surrounded by tropical fruits and looking out to the rolling cow pastures, we started to see the interconnectedness of life on the ranch and food on the table.

Tortilla-Making in La Paz

Over the course of two days, Ricardo showed us how to milk cows and Cristina taught us to turn that fresh milk into cheese. We visited the neighbors who proudly showed us their thriving vegetable fields. In the evening, we spent time in the thatch-roof kitchen learning the art of tortilla-making, over the same comal Richie’s mother cooked on 70 years ago. As we were eating dinner, our guide spotted a pair of endemic elf owls and it inspired a nocturnal safari that lasted until 11pm, followed by another birdwatching session at sunrise. Despite its UNESCO status, the Sierra de la Laguna is being threatened by mineral exploration.

To prove that the cultural value of the Sierras is greater than the proceeds of mining, we need families like the Mesas, tour operators like RED, and tourists like you. Check out RED’s environmental and community initiatives here .

Returning North

While it could be a bummer to retrace a 1,000-mile route, Baja is so gorgeous it’s worth a second pass. Plus, the recently paved Highway 5 makes it easy to switch things up with a drive along the Sea of Cortez to the Mexicali border. We cruised into the desert abyss, then Gonzaga Bay appeared like a mirage. Big mountains, sweeping beach coves, and islands spiking out of the sea, it was Baja at its rawest beauty. We pulled into the Papa Fernandez campground, where they charged us a whole $5 to camp on a million dollar beach (GPS: 29.8321, -114.4028) with only one other RV.

Further up the coast, make sure to stop at the unassuming town of Puertecitos and their ocean hot springs at low tide, when their rock pools hit the perfect temperature. For our last night on the Sea of Cortez, we stayed in the sleepy tourist town of San Felipe, walking the malecón, drinking margaritas, and toasting to one heck of a trip.

Mexicali & Mechanics All Over Baja

As we were approaching the Mexicali border, it dawned on us that Mexico has some of the best and most affordable mechanics and we’d be remiss to not get a little more work done. We pulled into Super Mofles to weld a crack in our manifold downpipe, partly because it was a good deal, but also because auto shops had proved to be a priceless opportunity for cultural exchange. When we got our leaf springs done at Muelles Verdugo in La Paz, we felt so fortunate to spend the day with a pair of brothers in a medieval-style blacksmith shop passed down from their father, where they were literally reshaping metal with a coal fire, an anvil, and brute force.

We bonded and as a tip, we gave their adorable son my old Razor scooter and them a six pack of beer so we could raise a glass to their incredible work. All told we got a new muffler ($55), catalytic converter ($100), welded manifold downpipe ($10), oil change ($5), rebuilt front sway bar + bushings ($25), four new leaf springs (quoted at $1,100 in the US and $180 in Mexico), and an even better Buddy the Camper. From the Verdugo brothers welding to Lupita’s luncheonette, the warmth of the Mexican people is as strong as the sunshine.

RVing Baja, Mexico: Planning and Packing

We love Baja and hope you fell in love with it too. Looking forward to your thoughts and questions in the comments below!

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32 Comments

Wow! What an adventure! I want to re-create this so bad. You had me at wine country camping. I’ve always wanted to see more of Mexico and this really is pushing me to go as soon as we get the chance. I love that some of the older folks were able to dance you guys under the table – that’s great! Also, I’ve found people in Mexico to be the most sincere, kind, and familial. The fact that your new friend felt comfortable allowing you to hold her most precious treasure, her newborn in your arms says it all. Exceptional post!

You totally should re-create it Stephanie. It was honestly one of the coolest road trips we have ever done. Most people just fly to Cabo, or go to the border town of Tijuana…and they totally skip all the magic in the middle! And you are spot on about the beauty of the Mexican people, they are so warm and giving (contrary to what the media would have you believe)

Baja is a place that has been on our travel wish list for awhile. We had a small taste test when we went wine tasting in Ensenada as a cruise port stop. We too were surprised with how great the wine from this region was. I can see why it would be a great spot for an RV trip. Some of those camping spots look simply stunning! I love that mix of desert and cactus with roaring seas! So cool that you were there when the grey whales visited. But scuba diving with whale sharks is on our absolute travel wish list. What an amazing experience that must have been!

Valle de Guadelupe was quite sophisticated and Ensenada is definitely getting trendier with its microbreweries and vegan food stalls. Though our favorite part of that area was just south on Punta Banda…it would actually be an easy weekend trip from San Diego if you’re ever that way! Baja is so darn pretty, all our camping spots were incredible and oh my goodness, the whale sharks! Hope you get back down to Baja!

I love it! This has always been. dream of mine and I love how thorough you were with your guide! Some of my must sees are the Marine Geysers and the whale watching! Cap it off with some whale sharks, I don’t think I’ll ever leave!

Glad you enjoyed it Joe! We felt the exact same way…we totally didn’t want to leave, and we are already planning our return, once this COVID madness is over.

Baja looks like it has everything! The outdoors, amazing beaches, those gray whales, good food, and of course wine tasting. Just added it to my list when I eventually get south of the border!

It has all of those things….and so much more! We spent 3 weeks there, and we EASILY could have spent 3 months on the peninsula!

I love road trips by RV. Last year we traveled for six months in a camper truck from Alaska to Florida. But we would like to make a similar trip to Mexico. I have added the places you guys visited to my list. Especially Valle de Guadelupe, because we are also wine lovers. And Punta Banda because we love hot springs, and when we only have a chance, we visit hot springs. And I would love to kayaking Bahía de Loreto National Park. You had such a beautiful adventure!

Hey Agnes, welcome! You guys did a road trip from Alaska for Florida….for serious? Did you do any blogs about it? Mexico was soooooo amazing, and so much safer than we thought (or rather, were told by the news) it would be! Thanks for the love girl!

This looks like the perfect life. I usually go with my car and stay in camping grounds, and my dream is to have a van or a camper to have the whole house with me. RVing Baja in Mexico looks an amazing destination, I’d love to be able to camp or glamp there one day. How long have you been traveling around?

Oh yeah camper/rv/van through Baja is the ONLY way to explore it (in our humble opinion)…we have been traveling North America full time for 3 years, and we can’t imagine a better way to see the continent!

Wow! This looks amazing! I haven’t had the courage to go RVing, but it is something that I have always wanted to do 🙂 You had me at the wine tasting, then I started seeing all the pics and I fell hard! The Ranchero Culture in the Sierra de la Laguna looked very unique, so raw and true. I always try to dive in the local culture of the places I travel to. Thank you so much for sharing this with us!

Lulia, oh wow, thanks for the lovely reply. You TOTALLY need to try the RV style. It is such a unique way to meet people, and also to explore a country…because you are no longer bound by the city centers and where the public transportation goes. You can really get out in the country and into places most people never visit!

I love your photos at Bahía de Loreto National Park!

My husband and I are planning to do some boondocking in Baja. Curious on what type of auto insurance coverage you purchased? Full coverage or liability?

Baja is incredible, you’ll have a blast! We Sanborn’s liability insurance.

Greetings! My husband and met in San Felipe, Baja 31 years ago. On a subsequent trip we made it all the way to Baja de Los Angeles. It has been on our list to travel the whole of Baja by vehicle.

We are now 64 and 60 years old and we have another adventure to plan! We are looking at starting our trip in 12 months when we get ‘off the wheel’ – so to speak.

We will down size our home of 20+ years into a 5th wheel and rent the house out! Whoo hoo!

Putting this plan in writing makes me so excited as it makes it more real!

Your tips and guide are just what I was looking for to help in the process.

Kim & Steve Rapholz Ojai, California

Kim & Steve, congrats on the big downsize and upcoming adventures! We gave up our house 10 years ago for a life of travel it was the best decision we ever made! We love helping more people hit the road…have you checked out our Trip Coach page: http://www.HoneyTrek.com/TripCoach ? We’ve helped 60+ people successfully hit the road for multi-month and multi-year journeys and hope we can do the same for you!

Your trip sounded perfect, incredible write up! Thank you! I want to leave for a Baja trip next week and this answered many questions I had.

One question that comes to mind is: How fluent are you two in Spanish? If you are fluent how did that impact the trip and same question if you are not fluent.

I know very little Spanish and wonder if this trip would be best next winter with more knowledge of the language, or take this trip and learn with the locals lol?

So glad our post was helpful! Anne is close to fluent and I know a good bit of Spanish so it’s hard to gauge how hard a trip would be without it but what we do know is that the locals are incredibly friendly and that most have enough English to understand what you’re saying…and of course use however much Spanish you have to show you’re trying. Don’t wait…go for it!

Hi, I’m so thrilled that I landed in your Baja blog. I too have a Sunrader and just wanted to learn about how the roads were for your SR. Any tips for preparing my toyhome? I’m heading south in a few weeks!

Thanks and enjoy the holiday season!!! Ruby

yay for Sunraders!!! You’ll love Baja, just check the weather before you go off-roading so you don’t get in too deep. Did you see our “Boondocking Gone Wrong” article? that’s what I’m talking about lol. So glad you enjoyed our post and have so much fun in Baja…it’s camper heaven!!!

We went on a full-day boat trip with RED Travel, a Baja leader in sustainable tourism, and it exceeded our expectations. Nice post thank you!

That’s fantastic! Love RED and so glad you enjoyed our post : )

Thanks for the great article !! I would love to go . I’m a full time solo female rv ‘er. Is it safe , do able for someone traveling alone ?

So glad you enjoyed the article! Baja felt very safe…met lots of solo travelers and also groups to tap into when you wanted company. Lots of vanlife meetups and communities of rvers. Have so much fun!

Awesome read….I have always wanted to take our RV to Baja….i think you just gave us the courage to do it!

Hi. What a fantastic story about your adventure in Baja. I am solo female traveler with a 25 foot 2019 Ford Transit based class C motorhome (Leisure Travel Van). It has very low clearance and it’s only a rear wheel drive. Would it be possible to replicate your route with such a vehicle? I’m a little concerned about getting stuck in soft sand when beach boondocking. Thanks.

Besides our renegade “boondocking gone wrong” experience, which is largely because we didn’t check the weather and you never want to drive down sandy/clay roads around a rainstorm, we were totally fine. Our camper is an old dog, you’re 2019 Transit will do great! have so much fun!!!!

Hi, Anne and Mike! Thank you for sharing your experience. I’ve read a few posts on RVing Baja because it’s a trip I’m looking forward to do soon and yours is the one I liked the most. I was wondering if this will be a suitable trip to do with a five year old kid and a toddler. What do you think? Thank you again! Ber

Hey Bernardo. Thanks for your kind words about our Baja RVing blog post…glad we were your favorite.

As for Baja, it felt SUPER SUPER safe. And I would say it’s the perfect trip for people of any age. So many amazing beaches to explore, hikes through MASSIVE cactuses, and just super friendly people at every turn. P.S. Just don’t plan to spend much time in Cabo, it’s super touristy and hella expensive 🙂

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Baja vanlife road trip itinerary for 1-3 months (+ driving directions & camping in 2023)

There’s a common fantasy among vanlifers about opening your doors to a private sandy beach and running into crystal clear water while colourful fish leap around you and a local man cracks open a fresh coconut. It’s the kind of easy living that has made vanlife into the instagram sensation it is now, almost all glitz and glamour and hardly any hint of reality. But it is a reality— in Baja, Mexico.

So much of Baja is wild and untouched, and yet it’s surprisingly comfortable to travel through its small towns and along its windy coastal highways as a foreigner— almost every experience a world away from the dangerous version of Mexico plastered across the nightly news. In reality, Baja is the kind of place people return to every year for decades, enchanted by the lifestyle and natural beauty of a coastline that really has no equal in North America.

This is a complete itinerary to exploring Baja in a van or RV, including 16 incredible destinations, what to do in each, driving directions (+ info about military checkpoints), and absolutely everything you need to know to plan the ultimate Baja road trip!

What's in this travel guide

Baja road trip logistics

Best time to visit baja, mexico.

Baja is a wonderful year-round destination (although the east does get a bit hot during summer), but for the best weather and the best chance to see unique wildlife, you should plan to travel in the winter from December – March.

• Whale shark season in La Paz: October to April
• Grey whale season in Guerrero Negro: January, February & March
• Blue whale season in Loreto: February & March
• Sea turtle hatching season in Todos Santos: December to May
• Humpback whale season in Cabo Pulmo & Los Cabos: January, February & March

Getting to Baja, Mexico

There are 6 ports of entry between California, USA and Baja California, Mexico accessible to public vehicles, with the busiest being  San Ysidro (the busiest land border in the entire world!)  and the least trafficked being Andrade (about 15min from Yuma, Arizona, although the actual crossing is in California).

I definitely recommend Calexico East/Mexicali II for a quick, hassle-free border crossing into Baja, and this itinerary is specifically designed to start in Mexicali (although it can be adapted to suit any crossing with a little additional driving).

In order to legally cross from the US into Mexico, you’ll need to prepare several important documents:

• Proof of Mexican Auto Insurance  (read this post for more details: HOW TO GET THE BEST MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE FOR A CONVERTED VAN OR CAMPER )
• Vehicle Registration  (original & copy)
• Vehicle Title  (copy)  or Lien Agreement
• FMM Tourist Card  (read this post for more details: A GUIDE TO CROSSING THE BORDER + ALL REQUIRED PERMITS (FMM & TIP)

Note: you do NOT need a TIP Import Permit  if you’re ONLY travelling in Baja!

So many people are intimidated by the border crossing and this is what ultimately prevents them from experiencing vanlife in Baja— but it is genuinely not hard! With the proper information and a bit of planning , you’ll be relaxing at the beach with a Tecate in hand before you know it.

Vanlife Baja & Mexico: A guide to crossing the border + all required permits (FMM & TIP)

Driving around Baja, Mexico

Mexican auto insurance

You are legally required to have Mexican auto insurance before crossing the border and, after extensive research , I choose an affordable policy with Baja Bound (which worked in Baja & mainland Mexico).

Spoiler: we had an ACCIDENT in Mexico a few months later and the agents at Baja Bound handled the entire process for us , from speaking to the police, getting insurance information from the other driver, and we didn’t pay a single PESO out of pocket— I truly can’t recommend this company highly enough!

Road conditions on the highway

A good portion of this itinerary involves driving on the highway, and although there used to be dicey stretches (particularly in Baja Norte), I’m pleased to report that all major highways are in excellent shape as of 2022 and driving on the highway in Baja is now fairly straightforward!

The only thing worth noting is just how narrow the roads are, often with no shoulder, so be cautious as large trucks come flying by.

Road conditions in town

One of the bigger challenge of driving a van through Baja is on small town streets, like in Mulegé or Loreto. These street are often cobbled and only wide enough for one car at a time (despite technically being two-way), so proceed with caution or even consider parking slightly outside of town and walking in to avoid hitting your side mirrors on the side of buildings, as we’ve done multiple times.

Google Maps

Although still the best navigation option available, there are A LOT of errors we discovered with Google Maps in Baja, particularly when it comes to one-way streets, which the app doesn’t seem to recognise. Locals are very friendly and will usually wave you back out, but it’s not always easy to turn a van around (as you may know), so be aware of this and don’t blindly trust Google!

This is perhaps the most boggling feature of Mexican driving and you’ll come to loathe them with a fierce passion. A tope is essentially a speed bump, but in Mexico, the height and shape of these bumps have absolutely no standards and are placed with WILD abandon throughout town streets, highways, dirt tracks, and basically anywhere you would never expect to find a speed bump.

You’ll only have to hit a few surprise topes to realise how damaging these can be to your van, and for some inexplicable reason, a majority are not painted or signed in any fashion.

Military checkpoints

There are half a dozen military checkpoints located along the length of the Baja Peninsula and you’re likely to hit most of them on this itinerary. For the most part, this is no big deal— you’ll be asked where you’re from and where you’re going, and then the officers will have a look inside your van. For us, this was always super quick (I genuinely questioned the point— if someone were to smuggle weapons or drugs into the country, surely they wouldn’t be hidden under the pillows, but ok).

However, there is always the potential that the officers will swing to the other extreme and spend an hour tearing your van apart, possibly with drug dogs. It’s impossible to say for sure, but I believe having a clean and tidy van makes you less of a target for these wild searches! *The location of military checkpoints are noted within the driving directions below so you can plan ahead.

Driving on the beach in Baja, Mexico

Some of Baja’s best free camping spots are located directly on the beach— it’s a big part of what makes vanlife in Baja so spectacular, but can also be concerning for those (like us!) who have a heavy 2WD van and little experience driving on sand.

Here’s how to make all of your sandy beach camping dreams a reality:

• Invest in all-terrain tires : before travelling to Baja, we swapped our tires for what many consider to be the BEST all-terrain tires on the market ( BF Goodrich KO2 ). Costco & Discount Tire routinely run specials, but even at full price, they are absolutely worth the money and have been invaluable in safely navigating sandy or rocky terrain!
• Travel with an air inflator and pressure gauge : deflating your tires is probably the single best thing you can do to avoid getting stuck on the beach and often lowering the pressure further does more than traction boards OR hours of digging if you do get spun in. We run 65/80psi (front/rear) for standard road driving, but air-down to 30/40psi for sand and have found it makes a huge difference. 
• Walk the route: whenever we arrive at a new beach, we park the van and walk through the sand to check for loose/deep areas that we need to avoid and suss out the best route forward. We know this has saved us from getting stuck several times, since the sand can get deep quickly in areas where it’s not possible to turn around, but often there are alternate routes that we can identify if we take the time to look.
• Chat to other travellers : we always try to introduce ourselves to at least one other camper on the beach, knowing that people will be far more inclined to help us (if we did get stuck) after a friendly conversation than if we just come over as strangers. And as a rule, we never push our limits on a super sandy beach when there are no other cars around!
• Know your limits: the best tires aired down to 20psi still won’t get a 2WD van onto every sandy beach, so knowing when to turn around and find another camp is very important. Typically, there will be easier-access sites a few dozen metres from the beach, and a 30sec walk to the water is much better than spending 2hrs getting your van un-stuck. When that fails, we just head to the next beach— there’s no shortage here in Baja!

Camping in Baja, Mexico

I’ll say it again: Baja has some of the BEST campsites we’ve ever experienced in our van. All your dreams of camping on the sand with the ocean a few steps out your door are totally possible— no 4WD required! Here are some of your options:

• Facilities:  electrical hook-ups, dump station, toilets, hot water showers, laundry, WIFI, sometimes even a pool
• Typical cost:  250-800 pesos ($12-40USD)

Established campgrounds

• Facilities:  toilets, palapas, occasionally a restaurant (which might offer WIFI for customers)
• Typical cost:  100-300 pesos ($5-15USD)

Boondocking

• Facilities:  none
• Typical cost:  FREE!

Following this itinerary for 6 weeks, we spent just $24USD on camping. Check out this post to find out how , plus for a downloadable Google Map of every single campsite we personally recommend in Baja!

The ultimate Baja camping guide (+ 35 of the best vanlife & RV campsites!)

Other tips for travelling in Baja Mexico

• Is Baja safe? Generally speaking, Baja is an incredibly safe place to road trip, with well-maintained roads, friendly locals, and accessible services. Travelling in Baja typically is no more dangerous than travelling in the US, and as long as you use common sense and don’t go looking for trouble, you’re unlikely to find it. A good rule is to avoid driving at night and only boondock alone if you’re completely hidden from the road (otherwise find a spot with other travellers!).
• Speak a little Spanish! Although you’ll certainly find some English-speakers in larger cities and tourist areas, much of the peninsula is very remote and the family selling fish tacos on the side of the road or the military personnel at checkpoints won’t speak a single word. A little Spanish goes a long way in Baja, so learn how to exchange basic pleasantries ( por favor, gracias, mucho gusto, yo soy de… ), ask directions, order food, and understand prices before your trip. It will help A LOT!
• For mobile service in Mexico, I use  Airalo , an amazing app that offers data eSIM packages for nearly every country in the world — you can activate the eSIM entirely from your phone, so you’ll have service as soon as you drive across the border without needing to track down a local mobile shop! Use code BROOKE2994 for $3 off your first eSIM with  Airalo !

*Overview: Baja Norte & Baja California Sur itinerary

• Mexicali, BCN
• Guadalupe Canyon, BCN
• San Felipe, BCN
• Bahía de los Ángeles, BCN
• Guerrero Negro, BCS
• San Ignacio, BCS
• Mulegé, BCS
• Bahía Concepción, BCS
• Loreto, BCS
• La Paz, BCS
• La Ventana, BCS
• Ensenada de Muertos, BCS
• Cabo Pulmo National Park, BCS
• East Cape, BCS
• Los Cabos ( San Jose del Cabo & Cabo San Lucas , BCS )
• Todos Santos, BCS

-BAJA NORTE-

1 | Mexicali

The capital of Baja California and one of the two large border towns situated within spitting distance of the United States, there’s nothing particularly special about Mexicali other than being your first taste of vanlife south of the border! 

In all fairness, there’s some excellent food and craft beer to be had here, as well as a whole host of dental offices (I got 5 fillings for $200), but I’d recommend scooting out of the city quickly and spending your time in Guadalupe Canyon instead (#2 on this itinerary).

What to do in Mexicali

• Tacos Cesar:  These tacos are still among the best we’ve had in ALL of Baja (carne asada, pollo, al pastor; 25p), and better still, this roadside taco stand is right on the way to Guadalupe Canyon, making for the perfect lunch & take-away stop as you drive out of town!
• Tacos El Remolque:  Packed with locals who flash a few fingers at the chef and seconds later receive their plate of carne asada tacos (even the tortillas are cooked fresh while you stand in line!), we loved this taco spot right across from Costco and were particularly impressed by all the fresh ingredients available for toppings at the ubiquitous salsa bar.

Drive: Mexicali to Guadalupe Canyon Oasis

• From Mexicali, it’s a 3hr drive across the dry lakebed of Laguna Salada and along a rough, rocky track to reach Guadalupe Canyon Oasis.
• While you don’t need 4WD (we made it in our front-wheel drive Promaster van), this is a VERY challenging drive and you can do real damage to your vehicle if you aren’t careful. The hot springs at Guadalupe Canyon were a definite highlight of our trip, but we wish we’d been more prepared for just how stressful the drive would be.
• For detailed driving directions (and all the info we wished we’d had before visiting), check out this post: HOW TO VISIT GUADALUPE CANYON OASIS HOT SPRINGS IN BAJA CALIFORNIA

2 | Guadalupe Canyon 

In the heart of Guadalupe Canyon, nearly 500,000L of steaming 50C (125F) water flows down from the mountains each day— and  for decades ,  a local family has maintained a rugged campground and piped this natural water into a series of private rock pools , each tucked away among the palms to offer a unique experience for intrepid travellers.

If you haven’t been frightened off by the rather harrowing drive, Guadalupe Canyon is such a hidden gem and one of the most spectacular places to visit in Baja Norte . With careful planning, it’s SO worth the effort to get here!

• Everything you need to know to plan your visit is in this post: HOW TO VISIT GUADALUPE CANYON OASIS HOT SPRINGS IN BAJA CALIFORNIA

What to do in Guadalupe Canyon

• Guadalupe Canyon Oasis Hot Springs: Each of the 14 campsites at Guadalupe Canyon Oasis features a private hot spring pool in various sizes and with different views of the canyon or palm grove below. After each guest, Guadalupe Canyon Oasis completely drains and re-fills these pools to ensure cleanliness, so you’re free to bathe naked and bring whatever drinks or snacks you’d like into the pool!
• Hike to Las Cascadas: One of the best things to do in Guadalupe Canyon during the afternoon (when it can often be too hot to soak) is venture up into the mountains surrounding the oasis for a little hike. There are a number of rugged paths and signs directing you to a series of  cascadas (waterfalls) that drop into crystal-clear swimming holes, the first of which is just 15min away from the  oficina .

Where to stay: Guadalupe Canyon Oasis

• Guadalupe Canyon Oasis is home to 14 campsites, each with their own spectacular private hot spring pool and unique view of the canyon. Sites range in size and price, so  the best way to choose is to look at all of the pictures provided on the  Guadalupe Canyon Oasis website  and email to confirm availability. Prices for the smallest 2-person hot springs start at $40/50USD (weekday/weekend) up to $105/$125USD for a 16-person hot spring; view the full price-list  here .
• Camping at Laguna Salada:  If you take advantage of your hot spring pool until 12pm checkout and then hike to the waterfalls as we did, you may find yourself departing Guadalupe Canyon in the late afternoon and chasing daylight to make it back to Mexicali— in this case, it’s possible to boondock on the perimeter of Laguna Salada (the dry lakebed) to avoid driving at night.

Drive: Mexicali to San Felipe

• After reversing the previous directions to return from Guadalupe Canyon to Mexicali, it’s a very straightforward  2-2.5hr drive (200km) south on Highway 5  to San Felipe.
• The entire drive is paved and the road is well maintained, with little traffic outside of Mexicali.
• Military checkpoint at the junction with Highway 3:  asked where we were going, where we were from, and had a quick look at the inside of our van (but hardly opened any drawers).
• Expect spotty Telcel LTE service about 1hr into the drive, which eventually returns near San Felipe.

3 | San Felipe

This charming little beach town on the Sea of Cortez is an excellent stopover between Mexicali & Bahía de los Ángeles, and may well be your first glimpse of the ocean since arriving in Baja!

Thanks to its proximity to the border and consistently pleasant weather, San Felipe is incredibly popular with expats and grey nomads, many of whom travel south each year to wait out the harsh winter months on the sunny beaches of northern Baja. The influx of Americans and Canadians here unfortunately drives up prices (this was the most expensive camping I saw on the entire peninsula), but amazingly the town has retained enough local charm to warrant a visit.

What to do in San Felipe

• Walk the Malecón: As is typical in Mexico’s coastal towns, there’s a paved esplanade bordering the beach through San Felipe, and this is one of the best places to begin your exploration. Food stalls, local vendors, and even musicians cluster along the Malecón, which also features art, sculptures, and excellent views of the lighthouse.
• Shop in town: Although camping and food is more expensive in San Felipe than elsewhere along the peninsula, this is one of the best places to shop for local handicrafts. We bought a Mexican blanket to use as a rug in our van for just 100p ($5), and we never found better prices in any town throughout Baja!
• Mariscos La Palma: Not to be confused with Alfredos at Las Palmas, which we were told was not great, this is a little family-run seafood restaurant near the Malecón serving up delicious ceviche, tostadas, tacos, and more at pretty reasonable prices.
• San Felipe Brewing : With a good selection of craft beer and the possibility to free camp in their parking lot (see below), it’s definitely worth stopping at the brewery as you drive into town.

Where to stay in San Felipe

• San Felipe Brewing Co:  With permission (and the purchase of some beer), it’s possible to camp in the sandy parking lot of this craft brewery about 10min north of San Felipe in Playa del Oro, which is a particularly good free option considering how expensive the RV parks are in town!
• Campo San Felipe RV Park:  Of San Felipe’s many overpriced beachfront RV Parks, this is an excellent location within walking distance of the Malecón & many food stalls and shops; this particular RV park has great beach access, clean facilities & even a pool, but it will set you back 650p per night (pretty standard for San Felipe).

Read more:   THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

Drive: San Felipe to Bahía de los Ángeles 

• Even with photo stops and a lunch break,  it took us just over 4.5hrs to cover the 340km to Bahía de los Ángeles  (if you’re in a larger vehicle, definitely allow more time— 6hrs to be safe).
• This is also the longest stretch of driving with unreliable fuel, so make sure you have a FULL tank in San Felipe and fill up at any open Pemex that you pass, since even Bahía de los Ángeles is known to “run out” of fuel randomly (we actually got 2x 10L jerrycans in SF, just in case).
• A majority of the drive is on Highway 5 to the junction in Chapala, then follows Highway 1 past El Crucero, and finally turns east along the access road to Bahía. The entire drive is paved, 2 lanes, and  the roads are in great condition  (only minor potholes on the final stretch to Bahía), although the shoulder is basically non-existent and a lot of big trucks drive this highway.
• Once you pass Puertecitos,  there’s no mobile service the entire way to Bahía (and no service in town, either) .
• We noticed a checkpoint that wasn’t marked on iOverlander just before Punta Final on Highway 5 (which appeared abandoned, so we passed right through). Note that you WILL encounter an active checkpoint (south of Punta Prieta) when leaving Bahía de los Ángeles if you head south on Highway 1.
• Just after the abandoned check point, stop at  Rancho Grande — there’s a mercado selling beer, snacks, water with a restaurant attached, as well as a taco truck out front with amazing fish tacos for 30p; this is also the first fuel we saw since San Felipe (apparently it’s not always open, but it was when we passed through)

• From Rancho Grande, the scenery transitions to  abundant yucca, giant saguaro, and peculiar  cirios  (boojum trees) on either side of the road , and we found ourselves stopping for photos with regularity all the way to the bay
• There are 2 Pemex stations in town, but as mentioned, finding fuel in Bahía isn’t always reliable!

4 | Bahía de los Ángeles 

A classic stop on any Baja road trip, due in part to its location but equally to its superb scenery, Bahía de los Ángeles (Bay of the Angels) is a real highlight of the north.

You won’t find sandy beaches or Mediterranean coves here, but the diversity of marine life flourishing in the bay is truly amazing , and you’re likely to encounter hermit crabs, sea snails, clams, sting rays, and dolphins on any given day and possibly even bioluminescence at night. Pure magic!

What to do in Bahía de los Ángeles

• Kayak or SUP: The absolute best way to enjoy the bay is on your own kayak or SUP, cruising out into the calm water at sunrise or lazing around the shore in the afternoon sun. Explore beaches around the point and visit sea lions on the rocks, all from your own beachfront campsite!
• Snorkelling: It’s no Cabo Pulmo, but there’s still fun snorkelling to be had in Bahía de los Ángeles. We saw stingrays gliding over the sand, colourful fish darting between the rocks, dolphins swimming gracefully on the horizon, and millions of hermit crabs & sea snails, their polished shells catching light and drawing us below the surface to investigate.
• Explore : there are heaps of wonderful coves and beaches hidden over the hillside that you can explore on long walks around the bay!

• Whale watching tour: During the autumn and into early winter, it’s possible to see humpback whales, grey whales, and even whale sharks around the bay. Most whale watching excursions last 4-5hrs and are offered at $200USD per boat or $4-50USD per person if joining an existing tour.
• Siete Filos café: The cafe on site at Campo Archelon (below) is truly worth a visit, no only for the lightning fast WIFI and comfortable work atmosphere, but also for their gourmet vegetarian food.
• Las Hamacas: Another good restaurant in town, though a bit more local.

Where to stay in B ahía de los Ángeles

• Playa La Gringa:  One of our favourite campsites in all of Baja was this beautiful rocky beach just 15min out of town with excellent access for kayaking, snorkelling & fishing (crabs, clams, octopus, etc). There’s heaps of space and privacy, yet it’s easy to socialise with some of the other RVs and vans who come to stay for a while.
• Campo Archelon :  This is a beautiful eco-focused, beach-front campground in town with hot showers, excellent WIFI, and a delicious onsite café (Siete Filos). Standard sites run 200p per person or you can upgrade to a larger site with a palapa for 240p/p, otherwise expect to be VERY close to your neighbours; that being said, there’s a great community vibe and this is a perfect spot to meet other travellers headed south through Baja! I’d definitely recommend to reserve during busy season.

Drive: Bahía de los Ángeles to Guerrero Negro

• The drive from Bahía de los Ángeles to Guerrero Negro  crosses the state border into Baja California Sur and takes about 3hrs (200km) .
• First, reverse the drive through the saguaro and  cirios  gardens to  reconnect with Highway 1 (about 45min from Bahía) and then continue south all the way to Guerrero Negro .
• Military checkpoint about 1hr south of Punta Prieta:  the usual questions ( where are you going, where are you from ) and a very brief look at the interior of our van.
• Agriculture control stop:  right before crossing into BCS, there’s a little station where they will spray the underside of your vehicle for pests and then ask for a small donation (it’s optional, so we gave 10p and got on our way).

-BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR-

5 | Guerrero Negro

If you’re here in the right season (mid-Jan to early-Apr), Guerrero Negro is one of the best places on Baja’s Pacific Coast to see grey whales , who uniquely court human affection by swimming right up to boats and offering their head for a gentle pat. Outside of the season, it’s a bit less of a destination, but still likely to be an overnight stop as you head south.

What to do in Guerrero Negro

• Whale watching : The biggest (well, only ) attraction to Guerrero Negro is boat tours that bring you out to see the grey whales, usually from mid-winter until mid-spring, while they’re migrating through the bay with newborn calves in tow. It’s common for mothers to bring their babies all the way up to boats, as if introducing them to humans for the first time, and it’s one of the most unique wildlife encounters available in Baja!

Where to stay in Guerrero Negro

• Boondocking behind the sand dunes:  hidden spot behind the sand dunes about 10min from town & 2min off the highway, this is certainly nothing fancy, but it’s safe and comfortable enough for a night.
• Ojo de Liebre:  this is one of the best spots on the entire peninsula for whale watching and it’s possible to organise boat tours from the campsite to interact with the enormous grey whales who migrate through from mid-Jan to early-Apr (camping only open during those times, which fluctuate year to year). Basic sites are 100p per night or 200p for palapa on the beach.

Drive: Guerrero Negro to San Ignacio

• Following Highway 1 out of Guerrero Negro,  it’s an easy 1.75hrs (150km) on well-maintained road to San Ignacio .
• Military checkpoint just before San Ignacio:  after the usual  where are you going, where are you from? , the officer stepped into our van and spent about 5min pawing through our electronics drawer, asking how much things cost and repeatedly saying “for me?”. We managed to get away without giving him the headphones, speaker, or laptop powerbank he wanted, but it made me nervous— keep a close eye during these inspection.
• There’s a Pemex in San Ignacio, but you shouldn’t be hard-up for fuel in BCS like that long drive in Baja Norte!

6 | San Ignacio

Situated along the shores of an emerald lagoon and tucked within a thick palm oasis, historic San Ignacio is one of Baja’s most delightful inland towns and an excellent stop between Guerrero Negro and Mulegé.

There’s not much in the way of “things to do” here, but the quiet pace of life and friendly locals really do make San Ignacio something special. And that’s to say nothing of the scenery!

What to do in San Ignacio

• Misión de San Ignacio: This 18th century church is the centrepiece of little San Ignacio, located right in the central square and always bustling with local events. It doesn’t take long to explore the misión and then wander along the flower-covered side-streets through town.
• Museo INAH San Ignacio: Small and free museum located just around the left side of the church, worth a short visit to learn about the ancient civilisations who thrived in this region of Baja.
• Kayak: pop your boat into the lagoon and paddle underneath the palms!
• Viktor’s: Tasty restaurant on the main square with reasonable prices and free WIFI.
• Try  Licuado de Datíl :  If the hundreds of date palms lining the lagoon and spilling out towards the highway were any indication, this region produces an incredible amount of dates, and locals have taken to making everything from date bread to date milkshakes with the sticky caramel-like fruit.

Where to stay in San Ignacio

• Don Chon RV Park:  this is one of several basic RV parks located on the shores of the lagoon, and with towering palms and waterfront access, it’s truly an oasis experience; 100p per night for dry camping.

Drive: San Ignacio to Mulegé

• From San Ignacio, continue along Highway 1 for  just under 2hrs (140km) to reach Mulegé, located on the Sea of Cortez in the east of BCS .
• This road is fairly winding and features some big crests, but it’s well-maintained and offers some spectacular views of Tres Virgenes, the peninsula’s only volcano complex .

One of the most colourful and altogether charming towns in all of Baja, Mulegé sits just north of Bahía Concepción, ringed by lush palm trees, cut by a green river, and opening onto a flurry of marine activity just offshore.

For the food as much as the scenery and the vibes as much as the free camping , Mulegé is a fast-favourite among van lifers— you may just find the days slipping through your fingers as you kayak through pods of wild dolphins, snorkel with puffer fish, dig into a massive plate of chilaquiles, or stare down from the breathtaking Misión.

What to do in Mulegé

• Misión de Mulege: Founded in the early 1700s by a jesuit missionary and significantly compromised over several hundred years, this rustic church has been carefully restored— but the main reason to venture up here is for the jaw-dropping view over the lagoon, accessible in just a few steps from the car and completely free.
• Snorkelling & kayaking at Punta Prieta: As mentioned previously (and again below), there are heaps of puffer fish, stingrays, and dolphins right around the point, not to mention a beautiful landscape of saguaro cactuses leading right up to the beach.

• Mulegé Plaza:  This little town square is usually decorated for some upcoming event and food stalls around the perimeter offer truly delicious food at a great price. Some of the best chilaquiles I’ve ever had are still from the little stand Cazuela Molcajete right here in Mulegé!
• Asadero Dany & Mario’s:  Weigh-in on the ongoing debate for Mulegé’s best tacos— Asadero Dany vs Mario’s. Both are excellent, but we definitely prefer the pescado from Mario’s and the carne asada from Dany; at 220p for 8 tacos, you really can’t go wrong.
• Mulegé Brewing Co:  Owned by a New York expat, this trendy spot in town makes great craft beer and tasty food (albeit at a slightly high price by Mexico standards; 80p for a pint), and there’s descent wifi in the beer garden if you need to do some work/life admin.

Where to stay in Mulegé

• Punta Prieta: This is a   gorgeous boondocking site about 10min from town with excellent 4G reception. Wildlife sightings from this rocky beach include dolphins, blow fish, sting rays & sea turtles, so bring your snorkel and kayak or SUP to really get amongst it (we kayaked through a pod of about 100 dolphins, and it was one of my all-time favourite experiences!)
• Huerta Don Chano RV Park: If you need facilities or fancy being closer to other travellers, this is a well-appointed campground located in a shady part of town, easy walking distance to explore all of Mulegé. The cost is 200p for dry camping or 300p for hook-ups.

Drive: Mulege to Bahía Concepción  

• Located just above the northern tip of the bay, it’s an  easy 20min (20km) drive from Mulegé to Playa Santispac along Highway 1
• The views as you come over the hill and descend towards Playa Santispac are truly jaw-dropping, so have your camera ready!

8 | Bahía Concepción 

A staggering number of Baja’s best beaches are situated along Bahía Concepción, a paradise of white sand and clear turquoise water perfect for kayaking/SUPing right from the doors of your van.

In many ways, Bahía Concepción is the quintessential Baja vanlife experience, so if you’ve dreamed of living in a bikini, slurping fresh-caught clams purchased out of a bucket, and drinking cervezas while reading a good book in the sun, then this is absolutely your place.

What to do in  Bahía Concepción

• Kayaking in the bay: Although there is far better snorkelling elsewhere in Baja, the sheltered bay is perfect for kayaking. If you’re up for a long paddle, venture out to some of the islands offshore and admire the dozens of sea birds that perch on shallow rocks, or go check out the nearby tidal hot springs.
• Just hang out : Much of the appeal of Bahía Concepción is the ability to camp directly on the sand with a perfect beach right in front of your door, so take some time to just soak in where you are! When I think of Baja in my mind, I’ll always think of sunny afternoons spent at Playa Santispac.
• Beach hop: Check out some of the best beaches recommended below (camping is available at all of them).

Where to stay in Bahía Concepción

• Playa Santispac:  Unquestionably the BEST of Bahía Concepción’s many beautiful beachfront campsites, there are also hot springs nearby, locals selling fresh-caught seafood on the beach, gorgeous sunrise views, 2 on-site restaurants with passable WIFI (no mobile reception), and very rough bathrooms. Although this campground reportedly gets quite busy at certain times of the year (multiple rows of RVs), such has not been the case since covid and we managed to find a beachfront spot more than 150m from our nearest neighbours; 200p per night, but you can negotiate (we paid 300p for 2 nights).
• Playa El Coyote:  This is another popular beachfront option a few minutes south on the bay with similar water access for kayak/SUP & basic facilities just like those describe above, also for 200p.

• Playa El Requeson:  Another camping option in Bahía Concepción, unique for its narrow sand-spit that essentially offers 2 beachfronts & wonderful views. One of the best things about this beach is that it’s very protected and therefore perfect for swimming, snorkelling, kayaking, etc (just be mindful of the tide-line when parking); cost is 200p.
• Private rocky beach:  One of the only water-front boondocking options on the bay, this is a rocky beach at the southern end of Bahía Concepción just off the highway among cactus gardens & thousands of seashells. It’s completely hidden from view, safe for camping, and offers great solitude (but no mobile reception)

Drive: Bahía Concepción to Loreto  

• Depending on where in the bay you’ve last camped,  the drive south to Loreto is 1.5-2hrs (80-110km) ,  más o menos
• Military checkpoint:  about 30min north of Loreto, there’s a military checkpoint asking all the usual questions
• There’s no mobile reception from anywhere in Bahía Concepción until after the checkpoint, about 15min before you drop into Loreto, but it’s a straight drive on Highway 1 so you should be fine to manage without navigation

An absolutely pristine beach town on the Sea of Cortez popular with expats and grey nomads, you’ll hardly find a more deserving example of a  Pueblo Mágico— the government designation that recognises 132 towns around Mexico for their rich culture, natural wonders, striking architecture, or historical significance.

In Loreto, it may indeed be a combination. The Malecon sparkles without a single piece of rubbish, paved bike lanes wrap through the palm-lined streets of town, colourful restaurants serve fresh seafood overlooking the beach, and the bright Misión and central Plaza truly dazzle. This is gentrified Baja at its most obvious, but there’s still enough historic charm and local culture in Loreto to feel authentic.

Off shore, Loreto is every bit as magical— thanks to commendable local efforts to protect the unique wildlife that lives in the bay and nearby Isla Coronado, Parque Nacional Bahía de Loreto was named a UNESCO World Heritage site for its diversity and ecological significance to the peninsula. By land or by sea, it’s not hard to be swept up by this little  pueblo  on the Gulf Coast!

What to do in Loreto

• Walk the Malecón: Either stroll or bike along the paved boardwalk that wraps along the coast through town, admiring how there’s truly not a single piece of rubbish in sight. This may be the cleanest town in the world!
• Loreto Plaza: The town’s central square is always abuzz with festivities, and it can be incredibly fun to eat at one of the restaurants on the perimeter just to sit back and take it all in. A short walk away, it’s also worth admiring the Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto de Conchó, a sunshine-yellow church still standing from the 17th century.
• El Zopilote Brewing Co: One of the best spots on the Plaza to sit and enjoy the aforementioned people-watching is El Zopilote, an excellent local craft brewery serving up some of the best beer we’ve had in Baja, as well as some truly tasty food. You’ll pay a little more in this desirable location, but it’s worth it for the atmosphere!
• Boat trip to Isla Coronado: Tour operators all over town offer boat trips and snorkelling tours to Isla Coronado, but the best deal remains the $35USD per person tour offered by Romanita RV Park (there’s a little office at the entrance where you can put your name down for tours departing in the coming days; min. 4 people per tour).
• Tacos El Güero:  2 doors down from the Big Mart, there’s a white taco stand with a large sign advertising “Tacos, hot Mexican food”; don’t let the unassuming exterior fool you, the carne asada tacos were 25p and truly excellent!

Where to stay in Loreto

• Rivera del Mar RV Park:  situated a few blocks off the beach, this is a well-maintained RV park with hot showers, washer/dryer facilities (35p per load), and great WIFI, all for the modest price of 200 pesos per night
• Romanita RV Park:  a bit closer to the beach and to town, this is a spacious RV park that also offers hot showers, WIFI, washing facilities (but no dryers) for 250p per night; organised boat tours to Isla Coronado depart daily for $35USD p/p (possible to sign up even as a non-guest)

Drive: Loreto to La Paz

• This is your second largest section of continuous driving as you make your way south through Baja—  it’s 4.5hrs (350km) along Highway 1 to reach La Paz
• Agriculture Checkpoint:  25min (20km) before you reach La Paz on Highway 1, there’s a checkpoint for pests/ticks, but we were just waved through; check recent experiences on iOverlander here

10 | La Paz

We typically prefer to be out in nature rather than in a city, but at 300,000 people, La Paz really does feel more like a town than a metropolitan centre — and as the gateway to many of the region’s best natural experiences, it routinely ranks among travellers’ favourite destinations in Baja.

Between the incredible food, lively waterfront, bustling markets, and countless beautiful beaches, you’ll want to dedicate some time to exploring La Paz!

What to do in La Paz

• Whale shark tour: For all the fascinating marine life and incredible creatures who inhabit the Sea of Cortez, perhaps none is more beguiling than the whale shark, a plankton-feeding carpet shark whose calm grace and striking beauty belie its almost incomprehensible size. The sheltered Bay of La Paz is considered  one of the best places in the entire world to swim alongside these gentle giants ; during the season from October to May, sightings are practically guaranteed. Strict protections for whale sharks in Baja California Sur require that you join a tour, so check out this post for more info: SWIMMING WITH WHALE SHARKS & SEA LIONS IN LA PAZ, BCS MEXICO: AN AMAZING TOUR WITH BAJA ADVENTURE CO
• Snorkel with sea lions: Either at Isla Espiritu Santo or in combination with a whale shark tour , it’s possible to snorkel with enormous and very playful sea lions in the bay, which was an unexpected highlight!
• Walk or bike the Malecón: Like any good Latin American city, La Paz has a shining oceanfront boardwalk that makes for an excellent stroll with even better views.
• Playa Balandra: This sparkling cove of bright white sand and turquoise water set against dramatic mountains is one of the best day trips from La Paz— it recently won a tourism award as the best beach in all of Mexico! The car park tends to fill by midday, so arrive early to stake out your spot on the sand, and make sure to hike up the hill for an aerial view of Playa Balandra , which is particularly staggering at low tide when the water recedes by several hundred metres to expose a narrow sand bar. Entrance is 50p, paid to conservation staff and volunteers who maintain the beach.

• Mc-Fisher:  Winner of our own “best tacos in Baja” list (COMING SOON), you simply can’t visit La Paz without trying the Burro Maya— a large taco filled with smoked marlin, chile relleno & grilled cheese for just 45p. So good we came back 3 times for this exact taco!
• Harker Board Co.: Trendy rooftop bar serving local craft beer from Baja Brewing and others.
• Bismarkcito:  Long-standing restaurant on the Malecón famous for their lobster tacos (which we can now attest are AMAZING and not much cheaper anywhere else).

Where to stay in La Paz

• Playa Tecolote:  North of La Paz & just beyond Playa Balandra, this is a busy beach popular with local families, but entirely free for camping & not terribly busy after day-trippers clear out. There are several restaurants onsite, water taxis available to Balandra, paid toilet facilities (5p), and an incredible number of sea birds at sunset (but no mobile reception).
• Playa El Mogote:  There is plentiful boondocking available at this prominent sandbar west of the city, some of which is accessible in a 2WD (use caution on the loose sand). In calm & clear conditions, it’s actually possible to see whale sharks right from the shore!
• Public parking outside MAREA: This is another great option for safe, free, conveniently located street camping in La Paz. Let the security guard at MAREA know you’re staying outside in the public area & they will watch your van!

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

Drive: La Paz to La Ventana

• The drive from La Paz to La Ventana is a real quickie,  just 40min (45km) SE from the centre of the city and you’ve arrived!

11 | La Ventana

Although La Ventana is regarded as one of the top kitesurfing destinations in the world, there’s so much more to this small fishing village on the Sea of Cortez than just consistent wind .

The town is essentially one long dirt road, opening onto countless beaches on one side and dozens of awesome local eateries on the other, and despite the massive seasonal gringo population here for kiting, the town itself has retained a distinctly Mexican feel— from someone who’s spent several weeks here, La Ventana is all unpretentious beauty and easy living .

What to do in La Ventana

• Kitesurf:  the main draw to La Ventana is kitesurfing, and even if you’ve never been on a board before, there are several kite schools in town that can train you up (the largest 2 being Baja Joe’s and Playa Central); be warned that it’s not easy OR inexpensive to learn, but from friends who’ve gotten seriously into kiting, there’s hardly a better place to pick it up than this little Baja town!
• Hot Springs: Drive about 10min out of town past El Sargento and follow the somewhat rough (but manageable) dirt road out to the beach to find these free natural hot springs right on the shoreline. Be sure to visit during low tide (or about 1-2hrs before) for the best experience and come prepared to do some digging/rock wall assembly, since they aren’t always nicely formed (I was lucky twice, but had to build my own pool one time and it was HARD with no bucket or shovel).

• Rancho La Ventana:  Not only are their fried fish tacos ( pescado frito ) incredible, but they also make chilaquiles large enough to share for just 95p (the pinnacle of Mexican breakfast, this dish consists of fried tortillas, beans, meat or eggs, salsa, cheese & crema).
• Taqueria Paty:  Another fantastic local eatery, known for their tacos al pastor and mainland dishes like choriqueso and posole, which you won’t find in many other parts of Baja. You can also BYO beer and there’s a Modelorama right next door!
• Mariscos El Cone:  Excellent and very reasonably priced seafood restaurant between La Ventana & El Sargento.

Where to stay in La Ventana

• Hot Springs:  There several options for boondocking at or near the hot springs (described above) and these continue for several kilometres north down the dirt road; you may even be alone out here, with most of the campers in town!
• El Sargento Campground: You’ll find heaps of paid beach camping options in La Ventana, packed with kitesurfers and Canadian/American RVers who spend their winters in Baja. None is particularly better than the next, but this spot at the north end of La Ventana is a good place to check out for 200p/night.

Drive: La Ventana to Cabo Pulmo

• From La Ventana, it’s a quick 30min (28km) drive to Ensenada de Muertos just SE of the bay.

12. Ensenada de Muertos

A snorkelling spot so good it deserves its own entry and at least one full day!

Ensenada de Muertos (“Cove of the Dead”, although they appear to be pushing for a rebrand as Bahía de los Sueños, or “Bay of Dreams”) is one of the absolute BEST snorkelling spots on the entire peninsula, and that’s to say nothing of the pristine, utterly secluded beaches or the perfect kayaking/SUP conditions. If you like water activities, this hidden gem is not to be missed!

What to do in Ensenada de Muertos

• Snorkelling: the best snorkelling is to be found on the sea wall directly out front of the restaurant, where hundreds of friendly puffer fish will swim right up to your mask and shy eels slither between the coral.
• Kayaking/SUP: calm conditions make for excellent paddling in this sheltered bay!
• Los Barriles:  about 1hr south of La Ventana, this beachfront resort town is popular among gringo vacationers and easy enough as a stopover from La Ventana to Cabo Pulmo; honestly, we didn’t care for the vibe (or the prices), but there’s a descent supermarket and some restaurants if you wanted to swing through.

Where to stay in Ensenada de Muertos

• Restaurant 1535 : you’re not exactly flush for food options in Ensenada de Muertos, but thankfully the restaurant right next to the snorkelling spot serves good food, has wifi & will let you sleep overnight in their carpark for free in a van! With some effort, you may even be able to get connection from inside your van at night, but you’ll need to park close.

Drive: Ensenada de Muertos to Cabo Pulmo National Park

• From  Ensenada de Muertos, join the main road at General Juan Domínguez Cota and continue south along Highway 1 for just over 2hr (150km), primarily on Highway 1, to Cabo Pulmo National Park  (via Los Barriles).
• Although short,  the route from Ensenada de Muertos to Los Barriles is one of the most beautiful drives on the entire peninsula , travelling away from the coast and winding through a lush desert landscape dominated by thick green vegetation and beautiful volcanic mountains; the little town of San Antonio makes a nice stop and El Triunfo (with its amazing bakery) is a short detour off the route before arriving into Los Barriles.
• From Los Barriles, the route curves inland again before turning off Highway 1 and heading east past  La Ribera, the last stop for fuel, groceries, and strong mobile signal  (3G is the best you’ll get in the park).
• The last 30min of the drive to Cabo Pulmo is on a washboard dirt road ; it’s totally navigable in a sedan or 2WD van, just take it easy (and maybe consider airing down your tires to smooth out the ride, if you have an air compressor).

13 | Cabo Pulmo National Park

Home to Baja’s largest living coral reef (and actually the only reef on the west coast of North America!), Cabo Pulmo National Park is an unbelievably magical place — one whose underwater world hosts large schools of colourful fish, 14 species of shark, humpback whales, sea turtles, stingrays, and jumping mobula ray.

Within a few hours but a world away from the resort-mecca of Cabo San Lucas, Cabo Pulmo National Park is our favourite spot on the entire peninsula and so worth the effort to get here!

Read more: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO VISITING CABO PULMO NATIONAL PARK IN BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, MEXICO

What to do in Cabo Pulmo National Park

• Snorkelling:  Cabo Pulmo is one of those rare places where you can see just about everything with your own mask and snorkel, no need to sign up for a tour! For my 5 favourite snorkel sites in the park, check out this post: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO VISITING CABO PULMO NATIONAL PARK IN BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, MEXICO
• Scuba diving:  Cabo Pulmo is highly regarded as home to some of the best diving sites in the world and there are several PADI dive shops in town that offer 2-tank dives for certified divers at ~$180USD. 
• Kayak or SUP:  one of our favourite activities in Cabo Pulmo was taking our inflatable kayak out every morning to look for humpback whales, who swim right through the bay and sometimes amazingly close to the shore from sunrise until ~9am. Respecting their space is important, but we had a mother and baby get within a few metres of our kayak just by chance— they played for about 10min in front of us before some tourist boats came blazing in and scared them away. The water is typically calm, so it’s phenomenal paddling against a beautiful backdrop even if you don’t see any marine life!

Where to stay in Cabo Pulmo National Park

• Abandoned RV Park:  Right as you’re driving into town, there’s a small rocky beach next to what was once a beachfront RV park (just south of Punta Cabo Pulmo), and this spot boasts excellent water access for kayaking and snorkelling, prime whale watching (we saw about 50 whales from our campsite during the week), decent 3G service, all walking distance from town.
• Los Frailes:  This sandy beach just beyond town is incredibly popular with long-term travellers, but there’s still plenty of space available on the beachfront or across the road in the arroyo. We made it to the beach just fine in 2WD, but aired down our tires considerably & walked the road to scope out the safest route through the sand. You’ll find great snorkelling around the rocky north end of the beach and a beautiful stretch of pristine sand on the opposite side!

Drive: Cabo Pulmo National Park to La Fortuna

• There are 2 different ways to reach La Fortuna from Cabo Pulmo: 
• Drive a rough, washboard dirt road   south out of Cabo Pulmo for about 1hr (40km)  directly down the East Cape to reach any of the beautiful beaches around La Fortuna.
• Drive north out of Cabo Pulmo (about 15min of dirt road) to connect with the main paved route  through La Ribera, eventually getting back onto Highway 1 through Santiago and San José del Cabo (crossing the Tropic of Cancer— stop for enormous helado right near the visitor centre), and then travelling north up the cape to reach La Fortuna (only the final 10min are on dirt road). This route is much longer at 2.5hrs (130km), but it’s almost entirely on paved roads and you’ll have the opportunity to restock food & supplies in several large towns. Google Maps isn’t aware of some road closures, so be sure to read this post for more detailed directions: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO VISITING CABO PULMO NATIONAL PARK IN BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, MEXICO

• Neither route involves any military checkpoints  (the one listed on iOverlander no longer exists in that location) and both routes are theoretically passable for any vehicle in good weather, so it’s probably your food/water supply that will dictate whether you can come directly down the East Cape or whether you need to circle around through the city.
• There’s a Walmart in San José del Cabo only 2km off the route, which makes for an easy resupply, as well as dozens of roadside taco stands from La Ribera to Santiago and all the way south.

14 | East Cape (La Fortuna)

Encompassing the coastline from Los Barriles to San José del Cabo, Baja’s East Cape is a wild and unspoilt paradise of sandy beaches and calm waters , largely undeveloped and blissfully off the beaten path thanks to the long dirt access road. 

But the journey out here, although slow, is easy enough in 2WD and well worth the effort— nearly all of the beaches are camp-able AND free! 

In my opinion, the best spots along the East Cape (aside from Cabo Pulmo National Park, which is the ultimate highlight of this region) are right around La Fortuna, accessible from either north or south as described above. There are a dozen beautiful, completely empty beaches in this area and it ended up being some of our favourite camping on the whole peninsula! 

What to do on the East Cape

• Hang out!: Honestly, there’s not a lot “to do” on the East Cape, but if you’re looking to hang out in a beautiful, secluded destination for a few days and just revel in Baja vanlife, then this is an excellent place to do it!
• Surf: The swell is pretty small but fairly consistent, which makes for good beginner surfing; a local man brings newbies to the beach every morning to learn, so chat to him about joining in.

Where to stay on the East Cape

• Playa La Fortuna:  As with almost all of the beaches in this undeveloped area, it’s possible to park on or just in front of this sandy beach. There are no facilities or mobile reception, but there’s an upscale sushi restaurant just above the beach where you can find food, toilets & WIFI; more importantly, there are heaps of humpback whales offshore and great beginner surfing!
• Playa El Cardón:  This is another excellent beach off Camino Cabo Este just north of Shipwrecks where you can camp on the sand. Again, there are no facilities, but there are spectacular views, particularly of whales!

Drive: La Fortuna to San José del Cabo

• If you’ve already driven through San José del Cabo to reach La Fortuna, simply retrace your steps;  it’s a slow but direct 1hr (28km) drive  partially on the new paved road, partially on the older dirt Camino Cabo Este, and eventually into the city.
• San José del Cabo is just 30min (30km) east of Cabo San Lucas , so it’s easy to explore both towns together (although you may find that you like one considerably more than the other…).

15 | Los Cabos (San José del Cabo & Cabo San Lucas)

Meaning “The Capes”, the Los Cabos region at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula is comprised of two major resort towns, San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. Expect to see more tourists here than you’ve seen everywhere else in Baja combined!

Cabo San Lucas is a raucous party destination with pulsing nightclubs and chain restaurants that you might choose to avoid altogether, but the more upscale San José del Cabo features a charming downtown of cobbled laneways, weekly art walks, and Instagram-worthy eateries . Between these resort towns, there’s also plenty of beachfront camping to be found!

What to do in Los Cabos

• San José del Cabo Art Walk: Every Thursday from 5-9pm, downtown San José del Cabo explodes in a bustle of excited activity for the weekly art walk, bringing visitors into some of the peninsula’s best galleries, highlighting the work of local artists who sell handmade jewellery, original paintings, and other handicrafts right along the main streets of town, and of course featuring a plethora of streetfood in the central square— a true highlight and not to be missed!
• La Lupita: For some of the absolute BEST gourmet tacos in Baja (think: braised duck, asian fusion fish) and rad live music, head to this popular restaurant in San José del Cabo; I’d suggest making a reservation or getting on the waiting list as soon as you arrive in town!

• Baja Brewing Co: Local craft brewery in San José del Cabo with some great beer and a fun atmosphere
• El Arco: One of the most iconic views in Cabo San Lucas is the natural rock arch at the end of the cape, accessible via frequent boat tours from the beach; no need to book in advance, expect to be approached and offered about 500 tours while walking around!

Where to stay in Los Cabos

• Desert Park Natural Reserve:  This sandy beach outside of San José del Cabo, sandwiched between 2 resorts, provides very comfortable (unofficial) overnight parking just a few steps off the beach.
• Street parking in the Art District:  There are a few options for free street parking in the Art District of San José, which can be very loud during the Art Walk or on weekends/holidays, but are ultimately safe and secure for a night in town.
• Playa Palmilla:  Another beautiful free beach between San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas; busy with locals & tourists in the afternoon, but possible to stay in the parking lot overnight; free outdoor showers.

Drive: Cabo San Lucas to Todos Santos

• As Highway 1 terminates in Cabo San Lucas, you’ll  follow Highway 19 NW out of town for 1hr (75km) to reach Todos Santos .
• There are no military checkpoints on this section of the drive, so just cruise!

16 | Todos Santos

Capping off this epic road trip with another Pueblo Mágico , no trip to Baja is complete without a visit to Todos Santos (“All Saints”, in Spanish) and the many charming surf towns that surround it on the Pacific Coast. It’s a favourite for a reason!

After so much time on the (admittedly fantastic) Sea of Cortez, it’s a real treat to witness sunsets over the ocean, baby sea turtles hatching on the beach, and countless whales breaching directly off shore . There’s a real magic here, from the wildlife to the water to the charming little town and its burgeoning art scene, so stay a while and soak it up!

What to do in Todos Santos

• Tortugueros Las Playitas : an amazing local non-profit organisation dedicated to the protection and preservation of sea turtles, which are critically endangered due in large part to habitat destruction and the threat of predators on the beach. It’s possible to  volunteer as a “biologist for a day” , which does require some advance coordination and a $45 donation, but those short on time can also arrive to the beach just before sunset to learn about the program and watch the nightly release of sea turtles from December to May! Read more about my experience in this post.

• Mercado Cielito Lindo: the best of the many excellent boutique craft markets in Todos Santos!
• Pacifica Fish Market: a bit pricier than other options in town, but their blackened fish burrito will blow your mind and it is worth every peso !
• La Paceña: their camarón tacos are the best in Todos Santos and among my favourite on the entire peninsula and the woman who makes them is the absolute sweetest

Where to stay in Todos Santos

• La Pastora:  This is a fantastic (and very popular) boondocking site a few minutes out of Todos Santos, with great surf and frequent humpback whale sightings right off shore during the winter. With decent mobile reception, this is the perfect place to post up for a week or several!
• Secreto de las Rocas:  This beautiful beach and rocky coastline is between Cabo San Lucas & Todos Santos, just off the highway. It’s very popular for sunset viewing, but everything quiets down after dark.

This itinerary directly links to a number of other itineraries to create an enormous and truly epic route through more than a dozen Mexican states. Use these guides in series to craft your own ultimate Mexico vanlife or roadtrip itinerary! COMING SOON

• Complete Baja Peninsula: Mexicali to Cabo Pulmo National Park to La Paz– THIS POST
• Ferry crossing to mainland Mexico: La Paz, BCS to Mazatlán, Sinaloa
• Pacific Mexico: Mazatlán to Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara
• Guadalajara to Guanajuato to Mexico City
• Central Mexico: Mexico City to Puebla to Oaxaca 
• Oaxaca & Chiapas

Read more about Baja, Mexico

start here -> The ultimate road-tripper’s guide to Baja, Mexico

How to get the best Mexican auto insurance for a converted van or camper

Vanlife Baja & Mexico: A guide to crossing the border + all required permits (FMM & TIP)

The ultimate Baja camping guide (+ 35 of the best vanlife & RV campsites!)

Baja vanlife road trip itinerary for 1-3 months (+ driving directions & camping in 2023)

Ferry from Baja to mainland Mexico (La Paz to Mazatlán)

brooke brisbine

I've spent the last decade exploring the world— everything from solo trekking in the Andes to overlanding in Zambia, all while completing a PhD in Biomechanics, teaching at a university & securing permanent residency in Australia. In 2020, I finally fulfilled my dream of becoming a full-time nomad! Whether it’s vanlife in Mexico, scuba diving in the Galápagos, ticking off incredible US National Parks, or climbing in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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The comments.

I am long overdue on leaving this comment. I have a camper van and finally grabbed that brass ring that is Baja. In researching my month-long trip beforehand, I came across this blog. I printed it out and it proved to be as useful to me as my Baja atlas, which is to say vital.

Brooke, I followed your footsteps, found your out-of-the-way taco trucks and snorkeling spots, and I can’t praise your blog enough.

To boot, I’m a writer and I very much appreciate how thorough, well written, and engaging your Baja blogs are.

So, I owe you a million delicious tacos should our paths every cross.

From one nomad to another, many, many thanks! Jenn

Wow Jenn, thank you so much for the amazing comment, it means so much to know that this blog helped you!

Baja is such an amazing adventure– something of a rite of passage for us van lifers– so I’m stoked you were able to enjoy it in all its glory 🙂

Happy travels! xx bb

Arthur @ Todos Santos Villa Rentals

Excellent itinerary – Baja truly is a magical place!

Thanks for reading, Arthur, I totally agree– Baja is incredible!

Happy travels 🙂

Did you ever go to the van event outside of La Paz? Escapar a la Baja? Was it crowded?

Sadly it wasn’t on when I was in Baja because of the pandemic! Did you end up going??

Wow, thank you for sharing these detailed info… Questions.

1. I have a Sprinter – Roadtrek CS- Not has stealth as your vehicle..but hoping it will be fine and not bring too much attention. 2. How was the “internet” on the way? can I work remote? 3. Looks like you took your time going south.. How was the drive back north? 4. How easy was it to hook up/ dump? ( am running on all battery, and no generator), wonder if I should carry a small one? 5.If you ever come to seattle, you all have a place to stay..

Hi Suresh, happy you found it helpful! To answer your questions: 1. I wouldn’t be too concerned about stealth in Baja, it’s very camper- and van-friendly! 2. Internet was definitely limited, but if you have a local SIM (I recommend Telcel) that will be a decent option in some places without wifi. Working 40hrs/wk might be tricky, but if you only need internet part-time, then it should be no issue to find campsites with service and/or wifi for half the week– if you look at my Baja camping guide, I noted the mobile service and WIFI everywhere I stayed 🙂 https://brookebeyond.com/the-ultimate-baja-camping-guide 3. I took the ferry to mainland Mexico, so I didn’t do the drive back north– if you’re planning to, you might want to stop at half the spots on this itinerary as you head south and save the other half for your drive north, since it’s LONG to do in a straight shot (although I know people who’ve done it!) 4. There are enough RVs around that hookups and dumps are doable at some campsites, just plan accordingly to stay at a RV Park in town rather than a remote site if you need facilities that day. 5. Very generous, thank you– my family lives in Seattle (I just moved my cat from Melbourne to Seattle!), so I’m here in between trips pretty often

Have a wonderful adventure! xx bb

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A Beginner’s Guide to Camping in the Baja Peninsula

By Sara Sheehy

Cooler weather is here, and with it, dreams of escaping somewhere sunny for a week, a month, or the whole season. For those willing to go south of the border, Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula offers warm temperatures, affordable camping opportunities, and thousands of miles of coastline on both the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez. Sound tempting? Though it’s only 30 minutes from downtown San Diego, California, crossing into Mexico and traveling through Baja takes a bit more planning and preparation than a trip within the U.S. This guide will help you get ready for a new camping experience across the border.

Rancho Grande | Bahía San Luis Gonzaga, Baja California, Mexico – Photo by: Mali Mish

Camping in Mexico’s Baja Peninsula

Baja consists of two separate Mexican states: Baja California and Baja California Sur. The northern half of the peninsula, Baja California, is home to the Mexican cities of Tijuana, Ensenada, and Mexicali. The landscape ranges from mountains to beaches, and the region is increasingly a destination for food and wine tourism, especially in the Valle de Guadalupe area.

Baja California Sur is the peninsula’s southern state, best known for its dramatic coastline, natural beauty, and the resort towns of Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo.

Both Baja California and Baja California Sur have plenty of camping options, from beachfront RV parks to hundreds of boondocking sites. While those in bigger motorhomes, travel trailers, and fifth wheels will want to plan to camp at RV parks, many boondocking spots are accessible to small setups like truck campers and vans.

Rates for camping in Baja Peninsula campgrounds and RV parks range from free to about $40 per night, with most averaging between $15 and $20 per night. Some RV parks allow reservations, though few are set up to take those reservations online, so you’ll need to call ahead to secure your spot.

La Palapa RV Camp | San Felipe, Baja California, Mexico – Photo by: Nathan @ Wand’rly

Is Traveling to the Baja Peninsula Safe?

Many people report that traveling through Baja is perfectly safe, but the feeling of safety differs from person to person. The U.S. Department of State regularly updates its Mexico Travel Advisory , which can help potential travelers plan their trip.

Like any other international (or domestic) travel, a little caution can go a long way. Keep an eye on your surroundings and move along if something doesn’t feel right. Don’t flaunt expensive items or discuss where you’re staying with strangers. The region’s roads are narrow, often winding, and rarely lit, so it’s not advised to drive at night. Consider joining a caravan of campers if you want to camp in Baja but feel safer traveling with others.

Make sure that your cell phone carrier works in Mexico and that you have access to maps and a reliable GPS.

La Cueva del Pirata | Camalú, Baja California, Mexico – Photo by: Our Adventuring Life

RV and Trailer Considerations for Mexico Travel

Baja’s narrow, two-lane roads and rugged access roads make the region best suited for those with small rigs such as truck campers, Class Cs, and vans. If you have a bigger trailer or RV, you can still experience Baja, but you’ll want to exercise extra caution when driving. Plan your RV park destinations in advance, and stick to the main roads.

Ramona Beach RV Park | Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico – Photo by: WinnieViews

How to Cross the U.S.-Mexico Border

The three main border crossings into Baja California are at Tijuana, Tecate, and Mexicali. If you’re traveling from Yuma, Arizona, you’ll likely enter via San Luis Rio Colorado, in the Mexican state of Sonora. Its proximity to San Diego makes Tijuana the most common entry point, so plan for wait times at the crossing in both directions.

To cross the border, everyone in your vehicle must present a valid passport or passport card. The border agent will likely ask why you’re entering Mexico and how long you plan to stay. It’s illegal to bring firearms or ammunition into Mexico. You must declare if you’re bringing in animals, agricultural products, medication (for any reason other than personal use), or more than $10,000 USD in currency. If they choose to, the border agents can also search your vehicle or RV.

Once you’ve entered Mexico, you need to immediately obtain a Mexican tourist permit, called a Forma Migratoria Multiple (FMM) at a National Migration Institute (INM) location. It can also be completed online . An FMM is legally required for tourists. If you’re staying for 7 days or less, the FMM is free. For stays of up to 180 days, the cost is $594 MXN, which is about $30 USD.

Playa Tecolote | La Paz, Baja California Sur, Mexico – Photo by: Chris

Necessary Documents for RV Travel to Mexico

In addition to your passport and FMM, there are a few other necessary documents for your camping trip to Mexico.

• Mexican Auto Insurance: In Mexico, all drivers must have personal liability auto insurance to cover the cost of an accident while driving in the country. This is non-negotiable, and failure to have the proper insurance can land you in jail. Even if your U.S.-based insurance claims to cover Mexico, which most do not, the Mexican government does not recognize U.S. policies. Mexican auto insurance can be purchased for stays as short as a day, and coverage options include collision and comprehensive, liability, medical expenses, and theft. Remember, if your camping setup is a truck and trailer, both vehicles need to carry equal insurance for the duration of your trip. Insurance is available through several companies, including AAA, Allstate, Progressive, and MexPro.
• Valid Driver’s License: While you don’t need a special driver’s license to cruise through Baja, you do need to carry your valid U.S. or Canadian license.
• Vehicle Registration: Be sure to have original copies of the registrations for whatever vehicles you travel with, including trailers.
• Temporary Car Import Permit: If you’re only traveling in Baja California and Baja California Sur, a temporary car import permit is not required. However, if you plan to drive through any other Mexican state, you need a permit. Permits are available at customs offices at border crossings.

La Perla | Bahía Concepción, Baja California Sur, Mexico – Photo by: BajaSurfYoga

Traveling With Pets in Mexico

Your domestic pet (dogs and cats only) is welcome to join you in Baja, so long as they’re in good health and have their necessary vaccinations. All pets are subject to inspection at border crossings.

For paperwork, be sure to bring valid vaccination records—a rabies certificate issued at least 30 days before the crossing is required for dogs—and proof of ownership. Mexico does not allow pets under 3 months old. You can bring up to three pets into Mexico at no charge, but if you’re traveling with four or more pets, there’s an import processing fee of $1,817 MXN, or about $150 USD.

Agua Verde Fish Camp | Puerto Agua Verde, Baja California Sur, Mexico – Photo by: Nathan @ Wand’rly

Where to Camp in the Baja Peninsula

Once you’re in Baja, it’s time to start enjoying the unique landscape and sites. Check out Campendium’s guides for the best RV camping in Baja California , the best camping in Baja California , and the best camping in Baja California Sur to get started.

In Baja California, popular campgrounds include Rancho Grande in Bahia San Luis Gonzaga, Adele’s Ranch Camping in Emiliano Zapata, and La Palapa RV Camp in San Felipe.

In Baja California Sur, Campendium community members love Hacienda de la Habana in Mulege, Playa Santispac in Bahia Concepcion, and Campestre Maranatha in La Paz.

Meet the Author

Sara Sheehy

Sara is a freelance writer who loves dirt roads, alpine meadows, hot springs, and powder days. When not on the road, she lives in the mountains of Sun Valley, Idaho.

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LIFE CHANGING WHALE ENCOUNTERS

Perhaps the most extraordinary wildlife encounter on the planet is a visit to San Ignacio Lagoon to meet up close 40-ton Grey Whales and their newborn calves. Grey whale mothers often seek out human interaction as they approach our boats to present their newborn calves to us while encouraging visitors to scratch their heads, back, and baleen as they lounge around our boats. Over the years this behavior has become a regular occurrence only at San Ignacio Lagoon.

Three Trip Options

Our most popular trip - Our private chartered aircraft takes you directly to San Ignacio Lagoon.

Best of Baja: Marine wildlife on the Sea of Cortez to the breeding lagoon of San Ignacio on the Pacific Ocean.

Get to our eco-lodge by your own means of transportation and pay the all inclusive daily rate.

P2: February 12 - 16

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Baja Ecotours Whale Blog

2023 San Ignacio Lagoon Whale Census

2023 Whale Census for San Ignacio Lagoon. This is a an extremely positive outlook given there were so many newborn calves seen along with the high concentration of whales making the southbound journey. Over the past few years of 2021... Continue reading →

Fred Greene’s 5 Day Air Trip to San Ignacio Lagoon

Thanks Fred for this great video of your trip on March 12-16. Fred shows us a full accounting of our 5 day air trip to San Ignacio Lagoon and Campo Cortez to see the Gray Whales. Private flight from Tijuana... Continue reading →

Whale Watching for Kids at Laguna San Ignacio

A day of up close whale encounters unique to Laguna San Ignacio. Campo Cortez Ecolodge on the shores of San Ignacio Lagoon is proud to bring our guests up close and personal with the Pacific Gray Whales that are born... Continue reading →

Fresh Oysters Served at Campo Cortez

It’s our last night of a group trip at Campo Cortez and we always have a fun treat with locally grown and harvested oysters from “SOL AZUL” oyster farms here at San Ignacio Lagoon. Since we are asked about the... Continue reading →

What Our Guests Are Saying

• "This is an absolute MUST! Baja Ecotours was a huge part of why my trip was so extraordinary. Go with this company! You won’t regret it!" Kelly Moore
• "The most incredible experience I've ever had, an incredibly beautiful and remote place, where the connection with nature and other people is impossible not to happen. " Sandra Naylor
• "Watching gray whales play around the boat is some of the most amazing wild animal encounters I've ever had. Baja Ecotours made that experience even more enjoyable." Peter Kragh
• "What a fantastic experience...a trip of a lifetime with Baja Ecotours!!! Would highly recommend this trip to anyone interested in nature and big animals!" Curtis McNamee
• "I have returned to Campo Cortez and Baja Ecotours for two decades. There are no equal companies for seeing whales up close and learning how to appreciate and protect them." James Dorsey
• "Magical people and magical place. The whales literally followed us with Captain Maldo. This is a must experience for everyone!" Azimuth Properties

10 day Baja California Sur road trip

Disclaimer: This page may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of those links, I may earn a commission at zero cost for you. Please see my disclaimer policy here, and my privacy policy here.

Baja California is one of my favorite regions to explore for its variety of ecosystems and landscapes. On this 10-day Baja California Sur Road trip, I was exploring Baja for my second time, this time by myself and I had a blast.

Too bad my trip was interrupted by Covid, otherwise, it would have been 15 days.

But I can’t complain. In this post, I am going to share with you my itinerary as well as important practical tips on traveling to Baja California Sur.

The blue ocean and the red rocky desert dotted with thousands of green cacti offer a spectacular contrast and overwhelming views that captivate any nature lovers and photographers. 

The best way to explore Baja California is by renting a car and in this post, I will share my 10-day road trip itinerary in Baja California Sur, including the most exciting things to do and places to see. 

➢ Do I need travel insurance in Mexico? Yes, you do! I can never stress enough what a lifesaver it can be in unexpected situations. Although I hope I never need it, it gives me peace of mind to know that whatever happens, I am covered. I have been using   Safety Wing , and I find it quite fair, covering a lot for its pricing level. Depending on your needs or you can compare different insurance companies on this useful site, TRAVEL INSURANCE MASTER . Make sure you read carefully what’s included before making the purchase. If you are undecided yet, you can read my post on the best travel insurance for Mexico for more clarity.

Baja California practical tips

A few practical notes on this road trip itinerary in Baja California

✅ If you are concerned about renting a car in Mexico, don’t be. I have been driving in Mexico for the past 10 years and although there are places where it’s not advisable to go, Baja California is not one of them.

On the contrary, it’s one of the safest areas to travel. Also, having a car in Baja California is more practical because the local transportation is not reliable if you want to reach the most interesting areas. Just make sure you pick your car rental wisely. I recommend checking on Discover cars because it allows you to compare prices from different car rentals.

✅ Baja California is a great destination for solo travelers because it’s relatively safe and easy to move around. I was there on my own twice and I had a blast.

✅ Get your snorkeling gear because it’s more hygienic, and a dry bag so you can take your belonging with you while you are having fun in the water

✅ US$ are accepted but it’s more convenient to have Mexican Pesos, for the exchange rate. 

✅ Keep your gas tank always half full at least, so you don’t risk running out.

✅ Tipping is not mandatory, but it is expected, for supermarket baggers, Gas Station stuff, and waiters. 

✅ Drive slowly, the only danger on Baja Roads are the goats and cows appearing in front of you out of nowhere.

✅ Get a local sim card and use Google Maps to find your way around. A local sim card is also helpful in case you need to call a hotel or your car rental or if any issue occurs. 

Baja California itinerary Map

10 days Baja California road trip

Discover Cars Mexico Review

Discover Cars is one of the most popular car rental for many reasons, among which:

✔︎ straight forward information ✔︎ full coverage add-on ✔︎ listing of different companies with reviews

This itinerary is not set in stone. It’s just a sample of what I would do to cover all the amazing things to do in Baja California Sur , based on my experience. (I did two road trips in Baja). By all means, you can change it according to your interests.

It’s applicable only between January and March, which is the whale season. 

Day 1 – Arriving a Los Cabos International Airport

On the first day, you will arrive at Los Cabos Airport , but you will skip the city and after picking up your car rental, you will drive to San Jose al Cabo, where you will spend the first night. 

San Jose al Cabo is a cute touristic town, much more charming than Cabo San Lucas, for its historical feel.

If you manage to organize your arrival on a Thursday night, it’s even better because you will be enjoying a nice night out in the heart of town where artists gather and show their works in the main square.

You will also enjoy great food and live music in local restaurants. If you happen to be there early in the day, you can make time to explore the beach .

Days 2 –  Santiago – Cabo Pulmo

The following day you´ll have an early wake-up call as you will be enjoying a wonderful hike in the Sierra de La Laguna .

A spectacular deserted area with amazing trails and hidden oasis, and even a hot spring. I went with a great guide that was suggested by a local friend.

I met 2 ladies who joined the tour and we eventually became friends.

We had a great time hiking on boulders and riding our bikes for part of the road.

Ah! The joy of traveling alone. 

From San Jose del Cabo to Santiago is only a 1-hour drive . 

After the tour, which is normally from 9 to 14, you will drive to Cabo Pulmo and settle in your previously booked hotel. 

Cabo Pulmo is a very renowned destination for divers and snorkelers, because of the incredible wealth of marine life, and whale watching. 

Winters are usually packed and it might be challenging to find a place to stay, especially on weekends. I would suggest you book in advance. 

Day 3- 4 Cabo Pulmo

2 nights and one full day in Cabo Pulmo is good enough unless you are a diver. But that’s for another post.

There are many different tours available but snorkeling in Cabo Pulmo is the most complete and rewarding experience because you basically combine two tours into one. 

It’s a 3 hours excursion where you do 3 snorkeling stops, the last one being with the funny sea lions. 

The bonus of this tour is that you will see humpback whales as well, and it’s an amazing memorable view that you will cherish for life.

To see these giants jumping and dancing out of the water right in front of you makes you wonder at the beautiful perfection of mother nature .

Even the guides that see those scenes every single day, were over-excited at the sight of the whale and her baby. 

Cabo Pulmo is a great place also for birdwatchers. I was lucky enough to meet some professional birders who let me join their birdwatching walk one morning, just outside the village.

It’s amazing how many birds you see if you can just observe. 

You can do it on your own. It’s just about staying quiet and observing but you must be there around 6 am. 

Day 4 – Adolfo Lopez Mateo 

Today is a driving day, probably the longest you will be in your car. You will reach Adolfo Lopez Mateo where you will have an amazing encounter with the grey whales.

This is in my opinion the place where you can experience the best whale watching in Mexico .

It’s about 6 hours drive for  428 km/ 265 miles

But worry not because you will be very well entertained. The road is a spectacular endless concrete path cutting through the vast infinity of the orange rocky desert. It feels like a movie.

Just make sure you stay focused on the road, and be on the lookout for the random animals that might cross,  and when you want to admire the view, just pull over and enjoy it.

If you get to the destination around 3 pm you are still on time to get to the marina and check with the tour companies if they have any tours available. 

Otherwise, you can check in to your hotel and wait for the following morning. 

How to book your tour in Lopez Mateos. 

The way Lopez Mateos’ fishermen are organized for whale watching tours is very practical and perfect for solo travelers. That’s why it’s my favorite place for whale watching in Baja California.

Basically, you get to one of the ticket counters and tell them you want to do a whale watching tour and for how many people.

They will check if they have any groups available that you can join or they let you wait around and call you when they have availability. You will always find other people like you or couples that want to share the boat. 

The tour has a fixed price per boat, so depending on how many people are in your boat, you will split the cost. 

Insider tip: Although the boat can hold up to 12 passengers, I wouldn’t go with a full boat. 

I believe 6 to 7 is the maximum number, especially if you want to take pictures. You need to have space to move quickly without causing any unpleasant situation such as falling off the boat, for example.

The gray whales are very friendly animals. Obviously, they are free in the ocean but they come into the protected bay to give birth and mate because that’s where they find protection from the ocean predators.

They are totally at ease with humans, they get close to the boats and stick their huge heads out as if they wanted to bond and connect with the excited tourists. It’s an amazing experience. 

I am so crazy about whales that I took two tours in Lopez Mateos, one in the afternoon and one in the following morning before driving to Loreto. 

Also, know that Alfonso Lopez Mateo is a tiny village with just a couple of hotels and two or three restaurants.

Day 5 – 8 Loreto

The drive to Loreto is a short one. About 150 km, 2 hours, if you don’t continuously stop to take pictures, like me.

Especially once you reach the coastal area, you will have access to spectacular views, and you will want to stop all the time, but the road doesn’t always allow it. 

Here is where you need to be more careful as there are a lot of unexpected curves and that’s where the goats are hiding and suddenly getting in your way. 

So drive slowly, keep your eyes on the road and pull over when you can if you want to admire the breathtaking scenery. 

When you arrive in Loreto you can use your time to familiarize yourself and explore the tiny historical center. Take a nice walk to the Malecon, and get a coffee in one of the nice cafes in the plaza.  

Loreto is a pretty historical town, proclaimed by the Mexican tourism association as one of the Magic Towns, for its charm and its interesting natural resources. 

This is where the Spanish conquerors landed on the peninsula for the first time taking the Jesuits with them who founded their missions.

If you have time I suggest you should visit the Local Museum right in the Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto, the first founded Mission. It’s very small but interesting if you are curious to learn about the history of Baja California.

There are many things to do in Loreto but since we have limited time, I would go for a tour to Coronado Island, and one for blue whale watching. 

They are both worth the money and your time, without a doubt.

Coronado Island tour

Coronado Island is one of the many islands located right off the coast of Loreto Bay. The tour will take you to one of its spectacular deserted beaches washed by an unrealistic turquoise sea.

Here you will have some free time to snorkel and swim or just admire the paradisiac scenery. 

On the way to the island, you will make a snorkeling stop to swim with the funny sea lion. But the most spectacular view is one of the dolphins that will surround your boat. 

Whale watching tour

The blue whale is the biggest animal on earth. Seeing it from so close is an overwhelming feeling that you will remember forever. The blue whale is not so playful as the grey whale, also because due to its dimension it is better if it doesn’t get that close.

However, seeing their tail sticking out of the water with such grace despite its humongous size, is really a beautiful experience. 

The boat ride to the site where the whales are located takes about 2 hours. However, during the trip, you will be delighted by the spectacular sights of hundreds of dolphins flipping and swimming around the boat. I had never seen so many dolphins together. It was like a miracle.

This site is not mentioned as part of the tour because it cannot be guaranteed  100% but the guide explained that they see them very often.

10 days Baja California  itinerary day 8 – 10  Todos Santos or La Paz?

Now is the time to drive back south and you can decide whether you want to end your trip in La Paz or in Todos Santos. 

It really depends on what you are looking for and I will leave it up to you.

I am just sharing some information on both destinations to help you decide. 

Consider that Todos Santos is a 1hr 30’ drive from Los Cabos airport and 2 hours from La Paz, so you might want to plan your flight out accordingly. 

Although La Paz is the capital city of Baja California, it doesn’t look like one. On the contrary, it has maintained the laid-back fishing town feel, especially if you hang out around the Malecon (the promenade), to enjoy spectacular sunsets, great boat tours , and delicious restaurants. 

There are many amazing things to do in la Paz , however the most popular are: 

• Whale sharks tours (winter only)
• Espiritu Santo boat tour (all year round)
• Playa Bal andra – is one of the most beautiful beaches in Mexico in my personal opinion, great during the day, and romantic at sunset. 

Check out some hotel options in La Paz

Todos Santos

Todos Santos is a very special place, with a huge bohemian community that enjoys the good life, art, surf, and beach time.

There most interesting things to do in Todos Santos are:

• enjoying the world-class culinary scene, 
• taking some surfing class
• watching the pro surfers flying over the crashing waves. 
• Spending time on the beach at sunset. 
• Join a yoga retreat

Todos Santos is also home to stylish world-class hotels and yoga retreats. 

It’s a place for relaxing and reflecting. 

So, here are the two destinations in a nutshell for the end of your amazing road trip in Baja California Sur . I am curious to know which one you will choose and why.

I hope this sample itinerary around Baja California was helpful, but I am available for any questions you might have.

For further reading

• 15 Best Resorts in Cancun for Couples, for a Romantic Getaway in Paradise
• What’s the Weather in Mexico in October Like? (+ Tips By a Local)
• Renting a Car in Merida, Mexico: A Complete Guide
• What’s the Weather Like in Mexico in September? (+ Tips By a Local)
• Weather in Mexico in August + Things to Do and Events

✨ Mexico Travel Planning Guide ✨

👉 do i need travel insurance to travel to mexico.

I would do it if I were you. You never know what can happen and know that no matter what, you will be covered with any expenses will give you peace of mind, and make your travel worry-free. You can check out SafetyWing which I have used and find it affordable and comprehensive and also Travel Insurance Master w hich is great because you can insert all your information and what kind of insurance you need and their system will pull out the best insurance for your need.

🚰 Can I Drink Tap Water in Mexico?

No, you can’t! Maybe in some areas or in some homes where they have installed water filters but to be on the safe side, I would say, never drink tap water in Mexico. Carry a water bottle with you and fill it up where you find available potable water sources. Most of the hotels have those.

🚗 Is It Safe to Drive in Mexico?

The short answer is: depending on where you are. Although in general if you stick to the main roads and don’t drive at night you should probably be safe. In lesser tourist areas you should probably check the local news to stay up to date. Driving in the Yucatan Peninsula is easy everywhere, even at night, although I would still avoid it. I recommend Discover Cars because the site offers the option to compare prices among different car rentals and you can add their own full coverage.

Read more on my guide on Renting a car in Mexico .

📱 Will My Phone Work in Mexico?

It will probably work, especially if you have a European or US phone, but your roaming rates may be to the stars (check with your SIM provider). Even if have an affordable international rate, you will be much better off by buying a Mexican SIM Card . It’s cheap, easy to set up, and it will keep you connected with your friends, family, and, more important, google Maps so you will never get lost!

🤕 Is It Safe to Travel to Mexico Right Now?

The short answer is, yes it is. However, there are parts of Mexico that are indeed troubled and you should avoid for now, and others that are super safe and easy to travel around.

Regardless of where you are you should always use some common sense rules such as, never flaunting expensive clothing, accessories, electronics, or money and keeping a low profile.

Read more on my detailed guide on safety in Mexico . If you are traveling to a specific destination I have got you covered as well:

• Is Cancun Safe?
• Is Tulum Safe?
• Is Puerto Vallarta safe?

💉 Do I Need Any Vaccine to Travel to Mexico?

No, there is no vaccine requirement (of any kind) to travel to Mexico

🇲🇽 Do I Need a Visa to Travel to Mexico?

If you are coming from the US or Europe you don’t need a VISA to enter Mexico. Once you get in you need to fill out a form that you need to keep with you until you leave. If you don’t have it you will pay a fine. Although the tourist visa for US and European travelers used to be 6 months long which you could easily renew by leaving the country for a couple of days and going back, nowadays they have been stricter. You may be asked how you would sustain your living and other similar questions. Sometimes they even ask you to show your credit cards. It seems odd but they can do that. If you intend to stay longer than a usual couple of weeks’ vacation time, just be honest and explain your plans. If you are not from the US, check this site to see if you need a visa

💸 Where Do I Find the Best Travel Deals for Mexico? 💸

A trip to Mexico can be expensive if you love to travel with all the comforts (like I do). There are a few tricks that will help you find the best deals. Here are my tips:

👉 DON’T travel in the high season, which is Holy week, Christmas and winter in general, and August. 👉 Book months in advance to find early booking discounts 👉 Use aggregators such as Discover Cars to find price comparisons and VRBO for vacation rentals! 👉 Look for packages flights+hotels on Expedia . 👉 Check on Booking.com or Hotels.com for hotel deals

Happy travels!!

Isabella is traveler and animal lover, a former tourism professional with an multinational background that lead her to Mexico, that she can proudly call home. After seven years in Cancun where she's still a resident, she took a bold leap, leaving her fancy job to embrace a nomadic lifestyle. She traveled all over Mexico, from Baja California to Ciudad Juarez, Oaxaca, Chiapas Hidalgo exploring and living like a local. Isabella founded Let's Travel to Mexico to help travelers plan their own trip on and off the beaten path in this beautiful land that she loves so dearly.

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CHOOSE THE BEST BAJA MEXICO CRUISE FOR YOU TO TAKE ON VACATION

By Robert Schrader | Published on January 28, 2022

No matter which Baja Mexico cruise you choose, one thing is guaranteed to be true: The journey is the destination — and every destination is a journey. From Ensenada to Cabo San Lucas and everywhere in between, the magic of Mexico's Pacific Coast is enchanting and enticing.

You can take a shorter cruise to Ensenada or Cabo San Lucas, or extend your trip and continue south to Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta. No matter how far you go or how deep you dig, here are the best ways to ensure you enjoy your time on land as much as you relish the luxurious environment on the ship.

Wine Down On An Ensenada Excursion

If you take a  three or four-day Baja Mexico cruise from California , you're sure to call in Ensenada, the first stop on the way traveling down the Mexican Riviera. Although Ensenada is right on the sea, you'll want to make a beeline toward the Wine Route that snakes through northern Baja's lush interior. Whether you enjoy tapas and cheese boards, or simply sip the red and white wines on offer at vintners like Casa Pedro Domecq and Vinedo Cuatro Cuatros, it's easy to see what all the buzz is about.

Of course, there are plenty of delights to be found along the sea. Take in the panorama from Ensenada Mirador, which offers sweeping views of the city and All Saints Bay beyond it. Or, head north of the city center and take a swim at Playa San Miguel, where smooth, black rocks meet turquoise waves, which are as famous among surfers as they are among sunbathers.

Cruise To Cabo San Lucas: Coast, Culture, Cuisine

When you search for Baja cruise inspiration, one place you always end up traveling to is Cabo San Lucas. Taking a Cabo trip to the tip of the Baja Peninsula isn't complete without a visit to El Arco, or "The Arches" in English. Enjoy a boat ride or stand-up paddleboard excursion around and underneath these arches, whose muted, sanded surfaces contrast almost hypnotizingly with the electric shades of blue water lapping at their bases.

Of course, plenty of onshore delights makes Cabo a top stop on a Baja Mexico cruise from Los Angeles . Tear into succulent steaks and luscious lobster at JM Steakhouse, or savor a romantic, seaside meal at Don Manuel's, located along the picture-perfect Pedregal Coast. Sip craft beer during the day at the aptly named Baja Brewing, or dance the night away at La Vaquita, where the only thing hotter than the jams is the shot menu.

Traveling Mazatlan's Amazing Architecture And Stunning Scenery

Mazatlan is home to captivating coastal scenes, but this is one of the first stops on your trip where you'll see truly impressive historical architecture. Take a walking tour to get a guided explanation of the Centro Historico along the Old Mazatlan walk. Or, head out on your own to discover attractions ranging from colorful Plaza Machado and its picturesque balconies, or the Immaculate Conception Basilica, constructed at the end of the 19th century in a Baroque revival style.

End the day along the sea, strolling the coast-hugging Malecon promenade as the sun sets into the Pacific Ocean. Walk all the way north to the Letras de Mazatlan Instagram spot, or enjoy a golden hour swim at beaches like Playa los Pinitos and Playa Norte in the south. No matter where you choose to explore, extending your journey southward to Mazatlan is bound to be well worth it.

Basking At The Beach In Puerto Vallarta

Speaking of beaches, there's a reason most of the best Baja Mexico cruises sail all the way to Puerto Vallarta. There are simply few better places to hit the sand and surf along the Mexican Riviera. You've never felt as alive as you will sunning yourself on the shores of Los Muertos Beach in the southern hotel zone, while Playa de Oro farther north more than lives up to its golden name.

If you've got a full day or longer in Puerto Vallarta, take a day excursion by boat to the Marietas Islands, where a breathtaking hidden beach awaits. If you haven't got as long or simply don't want to venture as far, explore central beaches like Las Glorias Beach and Playa Camarones, where you can savor the latter's namesake shrimp at delicious restaurants like Mango's Beach Club and El Barracuda.

Cruising The Baja: Exploring The Mexican Riviera

Whether you just take a three or four-day Baja Mexico cruise or extend your trip as long as a week, there's no limit to the discoveries you can make exploring the Mexican Riviera. Tour the stunning wine country outside of Ensenada, or take a boat trip through the Arches of Cabo San Lucas. Farther south, appreciate Old and New World architecture along the sea in Mazatlan, or take your pick of boundless, beautiful beaches in Puerto Vallarta. Cruising is about so much more than the time you spend at sea, particularly when you stop along Mexico's treasure-filled Pacific Coast.

Cabo San Lucas

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Best mexico beaches for 2024.

Mexico is filled with breathtaking shorelines that appeal to partiers and R&R-seekers alike. Whether you plan on exploring quiet beach towns or kicking back at a luxurious resort, a Mexican beach vacation is sure to impress. U.S. News considered user votes and factors like scenery, water clarity, crowd congestion and nearby amenities to create this list of the best beach destinations in Mexico. Help us determine next year's ranking by casting your vote below. Looking for somewhere to stay? Check out our picks for the top adults-only , family-friendly and  affordable all-inclusive resorts in Mexico. (Note: The U.S. Department of State advises against traveling to certain Mexican states due to crime; check the website for updates before booking your trip, and be cautious if you decide to travel.)

Zihuatanejo

Isla holbox, isla mujeres, puerto ángel, puerto vallarta, playa del carmen, puerto escondido.

Sitting on Mexico's Pacific coast about 145 miles north of Acapulco, Zihuatanejo features miles of pristine beaches and cobblestone streets. The city stands out because it's not as commercialized as many of Mexico's other beloved vacation destinations , allowing visitors to enjoy some quality rest and relaxation. Playa La Ropa, which is bordered by picturesque palm trees, is the most popular stretch of sand, whereas Playa Manzanillo is an ideal spot for snorkeling. Meanwhile, secluded Playa Las Gatas is an excellent choice for families and features calm waters and a wide selection of nearby restaurants.

Separated from the northeastern tip of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula by a shallow lagoon, Isla Holbox offers calm, quiet beaches – a stark contrast to its rowdy southern neighbors Cancun and Playa del Carmen. On the western side of the island near downtown Holbox sits Playa Punta Cocos, a stunning stretch of sand known for its incredible sunsets and prime bird-watching and fishing opportunities. There's also the more secluded Punta Mosquito, which boasts a sandbar and shallow water for relaxing strolls and swims. While on Isla Holbox, keep an eye out for the numerous flamingos and whale sharks that call the area home.

Isla Mujeres, situated off the coast of Cancun in the state of Quintana Roo, makes for an ideal day trip or weekend getaway from the mainland. The beautiful beaches that line this island are characterized by their glittering white sand , swaying palms and brilliantly blue water. Playa Norte, the island's most popular beach, features calm waters, beach bars and chair and umbrella rentals. Other must-visit stretches of sand include Playa Centro and Garrafon Natural Reef Park, where colorful coral reefs attract snorkelers in droves.

This laid-back island off the coast of Playa del Carmen is one of Mexico's premier diving and snorkeling destinations. Paradise Beach, an all-inclusive beach club on the island's western side, is popular with families thanks to its calm waters and ample amenities, including a floating water park, daybeds and various nearby vendors. Meanwhile, travelers in search of striking turquoise waters, boat tour options and superb snorkeling and kayaking opportunities will love visiting Playa El Cielo and Playa Palancar. However, Cozumel's sandy shores suffer from one big downside: thick crowds. Tourists descend on the island annually, making it hard to find a secluded spot.

Characterized by its steep cliffs, peaceful beaches and laid-back atmosphere, the unassuming fishing village of Puerto Ángel is a welcome reprieve from the tourist-laden shorelines of other Mexico beaches. The town's main beach, Playa Principal, is within walking distance of several bars and restaurants (though this proximity can lead to some cleanliness issues), while the calm, shallow waters of nearby Playa La Boquilla make for premier snorkeling opportunities. For a more secluded beach experience, consider lounging on beautiful Playa Zipolite. Just keep in mind that nudity is legal on this stretch of shoreline.

Travelers seeking an off-the-beaten-path beach getaway will find it in Troncones. Sitting about 20 miles northwest of Zihuatanejo, this underrated coastal town is often overlooked in favor of its more popular neighbor to the south. However, in-the-know travelers will attest that there are plenty of reasons to visit Troncones (delicious seafood and prime surfing conditions, to name a few). With roughly 3 miles of Pacific Ocean shoreline, Playa Troncones is a tranquil place to unwind and watch the sun set. Meanwhile, those looking to hang ten should set their sights on Manzanillo Bay or Playa La Saladita, a nearby surfing hub famous for its long left point break.

Located 25 miles northwest of the busy city center and crowded shorelines of Puerto Vallarta, Sayulita is the perfect Mexico beach destination for surfers and anyone in search of peace and quiet. Catch a massive wave or spend a calm afternoon sunbathing at the secluded Playa Carricitos. Or if you're a beginner, sign up for a surf lesson at one of Playa Sayulita's many surf schools. For slightly safer swimming conditions and excellent people-watching, visit Playa de los Muertos (Dead Man's Beach). When you need a break from the sand, check out this relaxed town's colorful shops and cafes.

Just beyond the Tulum Archaeological Site about 80 miles southwest of Cancun lies one of Mexico's best beach experiences, Playa Ruinas. Come to Playa Ruinas in the early morning or later in the evening to enjoy the sand beneath Mayan ruins without interruption. Also save time for Playa Paraíso, the most highly regarded beach in Tulum. Here, you can lounge on the white sand and take in the ocean's varying blue hues. However, some visitors warn that seasonal seaweed occasionally clogs this popular shoreline. When you're hungry, you'll find no shortage of mouthwatering restaurants along the coast.

Cancun's beaches are some of the most popular in Mexico, recognized for their powder-soft sands and crystal-clear waters. While many will stick to the shoreline outside their resort , visitors should consider exploring the area's other options, too. Travelers love the relaxed vibe, calm surf (perfect for snorkeling) and clean sand at Playa Tortugas and laud the relatively less-crowded and scenic Playa Delfines. And because tourists tend to favor Cancun, vacationers can find plenty of restaurants, shops and a wide range of resorts just steps from the sand when it's time to retreat from the sun.

Puerto Vallarta is home to superb beaches – some small, some hidden and some accessible only by boat. Surrounded by the Sierra Madre Mountains, Playa Colomitos is the smallest beach in Mexico. Located about 15 miles southwest of Puerto Vallarta, travelers can reach this under-the-radar shoreline by hopping on a brief boat ride or making the 40-minute hike from Boca de Tomatlán. Meanwhile, Playa Las Gemelas features calming turquoise waters and warm sands, while Playa Camarones (Shrimp Beach) is easily reachable by car and is a great place to enjoy water sports like kayaking, parasailing and Jet Skiing.

Situated on Mexico's Pacific coast about 25 miles northwest of Puerto Vallarta, Punta Mita is an incredible luxury beach vacation spot. The area is home to upscale vacation rentals and five-star hotels, including a St. Regis and a Four Seasons . Exclusivity and seclusion set Punta Mita apart from neighboring Mexico beaches, allowing travelers to soak up the tranquil atmosphere. What's more, because the lodging options are limited, the beaches are less crowded and better maintained. If you're hoping to enjoy even more elbow room while sunbathing, take a boat to secluded beaches like La Lancha and the Islas Marietas.

Located in Riviera Maya, Playa del Carmen once had the ambiance of a sleepy European coastal town. Now, these beaches are among the most popular along the Yucatan Peninsula. Central beaches like Playa Mamitas boast beach clubs that are just as hip, loud and crowded as those found in Cancun, and thanks to the numerous resorts tracing the coastline, you'll likely have direct access to the beach from your hotel. If you'd rather relax than go clubbing, hit up gems like Playa Punta Esmeralda, Playa Xpu-Ha and Playa Paamul.

Positioned along Mexico's southern Pacific coast, Puerto Escondido offers an array of beautiful beaches to choose from. Playa Zicatela hosts annual surfing competitions – visit in late spring or summer when swells can reach higher than 20 feet. But remember, the beach's dangerous undertow is not safe for first-time surfers. If you'd like to practice hanging ten, sign up for a lesson at a beginner-friendly surfing beach like Playa Carrizalillo. Meanwhile, nearby shores like La Punta and Playa Principal offer calmer waves for swimming. After soaking up some rays on the beach, travelers can take advantage of Puerto Escondido's abundant bars, restaurants and shops.

Composed of nine bays and dozens of beaches, Huatulco occupies 20-plus miles of Pacific shoreline in Mexico's southern state of Oaxaca. Those looking for beaches safe for relaxing and swimming should check out small, clean Playa Arrocito and bustling Playa La Entrega, which is known for its snorkeling and restaurant offerings. Visitors seeking a bit of adventure can travel to beaches that are only accessible via boat or hiking trails, such as Bahía de Cacaluta in Parque Nacional Huatulco. Other things to do in and around Huatulco include waterfall tours and fishing charters.

Just a 5-mile drive northwest of Zihuatanejo, this town is known for its numerous high-rise resorts and picturesque, sandy shoreline. The beautiful scenery and impressive sunsets are what draw travelers to this beach town. Ixtapa's main beach is Playa El Palmar, which is populated with water sports vendors and concession stands. Keep in mind, though, that the waves and currents at this beach can be rough, so take caution while swimming. For an ideal beach day, take a water taxi to the car-free Isla Ixtapa, where you can snorkel at Playa Coral or swim in the calm waters at Playa Varadero.

Set about 100 miles north of Cabo San Lucas on Baja California Sur's eastern coast, La Paz overlooks the Gulf of California. It features a modest beach that lines its waterfront promenade, but the standout beaches are a short trek from the city center. Playa Balandra, which sits approximately 17 miles north of the city, features long stretches of white sand, plus warm, shallow water ideal for families. Visitors can rent kayaks here as well. Travelers interested in seeing the coastline and the more remote Ensenada Grande beach on Isla Partida may want to consider a boat tour.

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Exploring Northern Baja: Road Trip through Baja Norte

By: Author Rob Taylor

Posted on Published: May 18, 2023  - Last updated: September 16, 2023

When you say Baja California, I think most people are instantly going to think “Off-roading and military car inspections…”  Well, yes, that’s totally possible and I’m sure you’ll come across that, but we’ve had some pretty incredible Baja road trips, both in Northern Baja and Baja California Sur. The Baja is one of our favorite Mexican destinations !

Doing a road trip through Northern Baja California, Mexico is a really fun and interesting option for either family travel or adventurous adults.  A drive through Northern Baja is all about the rugged coast and beautiful valleys, and if you continue south, a Baja California Sur road trip gives you picturesque towns and amazing snorkeling experiences.

Planning a Northern Baja Road Trip

This road trip plan takes you from Tijuana to Bahia de Los Angeles. It includes wine country, lots of great food and beach time, and whale watching. A less touristy experience than Baja California Sur, you’ll need to speak and understand Spanish better than you might expect. English is not widely spoken, so exercise your language skills and patience as you explore.

Much of Baja California is undeveloped or sparsely so. With that, there aren’t a ton of major sites and famous towns, but you get the freedom of finding quiet beaches and very small, restaurants or roadside kitchens for meals. You’ll love it.

Driving in the rural areas of Baja California, you can expect to come across military checkpoints from time to time. Be sure you have your passports and that you’ve registered with a tourist card once you’ve crossed the border into Mexico. If you flew in, you already have filled out the form and should have the tourist card on your person at all times.

Northern Baja Road Trip Itinerary

This Baja road trip itinerary is a mix of beach time and seeing the rugged, less visited parts of Baja California, Mexico. Be sure you are well stocked with water, sunblock, and roadside assistance supplies. This is one of the most fun and adventurous drives in North America, but also it can be a simple disaster if you’re not smart about it.

Start Your Baja Norte Road Trip: Tijuana to Rosarito

Fly into Tijuana (TIJ) or San Diego (SAN) to begin. Tijuana is actually a huge city, so if you want to spend a day exploring, do so, otherwise head south to be ready to start the Baja California road trip first thing in the morning. For a more scenic drive, but slower, head west to Highway Mexico 1D and make stops along the way at the many viewpoints and beaches. 

• Sleep in:   Rosarito – 1 night is good

Day 2: Rosarito to Ensenada

Start your Baja road trip by walking on the beach. This is always a good idea, particularly since this itinerary has a fair amount of time inland. After the beach, explore the town a bit, including tequila tasting and looking for the perfect tin framed mirror to bring home. Head south along the coast, stopping in Puerto Nuevo for lunch and more beach time. End your drive in Ensenada, a large town with a peaceful vibe. Dinner just off the Malecon finishes the day. 

• Sleep in:  Ensenada – 1 or 2 nights is good

Day 3: Northern Baja Coast

Walk through downtown to find breakfast before visiting the Riviera de Ensenada and Museo Histiorico Regional. Take a peek inside the gorgeous cathedral and then have a torta for lunch. If you like, there is wine tasting locally as well, as the Valle de Guadalupe wine region is not too far away.

When you’re ready, head south visiting La Bufadora (the blowhole) and supporting the locals selling their wares. Continue on your journey towards Santo Tomas, where you’ll head west to the coast. The road may be a bit rough, so be prepared. Stop at any beach or rocky point that suits you, ending your day in a small town on the Pacific.

• Sleep in: Erendira or San Vicente – 1 night is good

Day 4: the Remote Costa Pacifica and Punta Mazo

Enjoy a lazy morning or hike in the hills between Erendira and San Vicente. Relax at the beach or head out fishing with a local guide. By late morning, you should be on the road again heading towards Rancho Los Pinos to the south. Here you’ll have more time to relax, snorkel or fish, and just enjoy the small town Mexican culture.

On your way, make stops at Reserva Natural Punta Mazo for coastal volcanoes (dormant) and the beautiful estuary at the Humedales de San Quintin. This is a good place for insect repellant if you’re kayaking or hiking.

This part of your Baja California road trip is starting to become very remote. You will find mini-supers and Pemex as you go, but keep a close eye on your fuel and water levels, as well as the condition of your vehicle. There are many more services and better roads now than the first time we did this road trip, but it’s still not perfect, so be wise.

• Sleep in:  Rancho Los Pinos or San Quintin – 1 night is good

Day 5: the Mountains of Baja California

Today the drive takes you across the desert and mountains of Baja California. There is a lot of driving to do (5.5 hours), but you can easily break it up with stops to enjoy the mountains, including a few roadside hikes. SAFETY FIRST.

Be sure you are well stocked with water and snacks, and that you get gas before heading away from the beach. Fill up in El Rosario and then again in San Antonio de las Minas. There are many small cafes and food stands along the drive, so getting lunch to go is easy. When you arrive in Bahia de los Angeles you can relax. You’ll be here for a few days. 

• Sleep in:   Bahia de los Angeles – at least two nights is recommended

Day 6: the Sea of Cortez

Explore the coves and beaches of Bahia de los Angeles. If you like, book a boat trip over to any of the small islands just offshore or to Punta El Pescador. If the season is right, opportunities for swimming with whale sharks and sea lions are available. The Sea of Cortez is incredible for snorkeling and diving, so enjoy! 

Note: if you’re a diver and traveling with your own gear, you can hire a boat out of Bahia de los Angeles to explore the small islands in this part of the Sea of Cortez.

Day 6: Puertecitos and Colorful San Filipe

Another day to enjoy the Sea of Cortez!  Make lots of stops along the way as you head north to San Felipe.  Stop for lunch and beach time in Puertecitos, or check out the hot spring by the beach (paid admission). This is a very rural area with a small population, so take advantage of the gas stations and food options as they come up. When you arrive in San Felipe, walk the Malecon and enjoy the town. There are several nice hotels to choose from and plenty of dining. 

• Sleep in:   San Felipe – 1 or 2 days here is great

Day 8:  Baja California Wine County

You have two choices for today. You can either spend one more day in San Felipe playing in the Sea of Cortez and then drive all the way back to Tijuana tomorrow, or you can head to Valle de Guadaloupe to have a day touring Baja California wine country. With more than 20 wineries, vineyards and tasting rooms, you can have a very different sort of wine tasting experience than you might have in Temecula or Napa. 

• Sleep in:   Guadaloupe or Ensenada

Ending your Baja Road Trip

Drive back to either Tijuana or San Diego to round out your Baja California road trip. You could also head east to explore the eastern side of the Sea of Cortez, including Golfo de Santa Clara and Puerto Peñasco. Whichever way you go, you’ll no doubt want to return to Baja California for another road trip soon!

Need to Know for a Baja California Road Trip

It’s important to note that whether you’re flying into Tijuana, Baja California (TIJ) or San Diego, USA you’ll need a passport for this adventure. If you’re driving across the border into Mexico a Passport Card or Nexus card may be acceptable, but if you’re flying you’ll need an actual passport.

Once in Mexico you’ll also need to have a tourist card, which is usually completed when customs forms are done, flying or driving. Keep these things on you in the event you are stopped, by the police or military. Typically being stopped is no concern and it’s quick, but just always act in safety and honesty just in case.

When you’re packing for a Baja road trip , be sure you have the appropriate clothes and shoes, means cool and breathable clothing, and shoes that are good for beaches and/or hiking. Baja California has very diverse activities depending on where you spend the majority of your time, so pack smart. Also, SUNSCREEN and hats are so important.

More Fun Mexico Road Trips to Plan

We love exploring Mexico beyond the cruise ports and tourist resorts. It’s much more safe than its reputation, and just like with traveling within the United States, if you’re going someplace sketchy, you should expect sketchy behavior. Don’t do foolish things and drive safely and you should have a great trip, whether you’re here in Northern Baja or over on the Yucatan.

Here are a few more ideas for travel in Mexico, including some really fun, beautiful road trips:

• Colorful Yucatan Road Trip
• Baja California Sur Road Trip
• Snorkeling Around Los Cabos
• Cenotes to Explore
• Mayan Ruins around the Yucatan
• Isla Holbox – a Gorgeous Caribbean Island

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave us a comment or send us a note . We’re always happy to help with travel planning!

Baja Mexico: Beautiful Stops on the Ultimate Peninsula Road Trip

Wednesday 27th of September 2023

[…] Read More: Exploring Northern Baja: Road Trip through Baja Norte […]

• June 2024 Baja Fishing Report

June is the beginning of the best fishing that Baja offers, and most years, it stretches into early November. June is also my favorite month, with air temperatures reaching the high 80s and water temperatures in the upper 70s, a temperature that attracts various game fish.

Coronado Islands/Rock Pile

  Yellowtail fishing at the Islands has been outstanding. The YTs are running up and down the Ridge in the Middle Grounds, and guys are drifting and anchoring on this Ridge, scoring yellows on sardines as they pass through, as well as on mint-colored surface iron and the Yoyo.

From the Lee of South Island to the Light House is another prime location for yellowtail. Some are tight to the Island in 30 to 45 feet of water, but anglers have also caught them at Pukey Point. We mostly hear that the Middle Grounds and the lee south of the Middle Grounds are where they find the volume.

Keep your distance from other boats when trolling around in this area.

One thing we should point out is that these 15 to 30-pound yellowtails have been hit and miss. They will pop up for a while, bite, and then disappear. If you don’t see them, wait. They will likely pop up again at some point.

Although there has been good bottom fishing around the Islands for rockfish, whitefish, and sheepshead for some time, the Rockpile has been slow due to cold, dirty water.

Ensenada/Punta Banda/Santo Tomas/Isolete

Good yellowtail action has been occurring down at Isolete, and yellows are on the Ridge running toward the rock. Guys are catching the fish on Yoyo iron 125 to 150 feet along this Ridge.

Still, there are some yellowtail in the Punta Banda area, but the big, 8 to 12-pound class bonito outnumber the yellowtail. There is also excellent rockfish action still happening down at Santo Tomas .  

San Quintín

San Quintín produces yellowtail and rockfish!  Mornings produced good-sized lingcod and red rock cod; on the return trip, some yellows were also feeding on the surface, and casting surface lures produced good-sized fish to finish the day!

Summer (June to August) is the peak fishing season in San Felipe. The warm waters attract game fish, such as dorado, yellowfin tuna, and marlin. It’s also the perfect time for offshore fishing, such as flag cabrilla, blunt head triggerfish, grouper, catfish, white snook, corvina, sole, and Pacific sierra.

Gonzaga Bay

Still uncrowded, as the sea temps increase, so do the count numbers of surface and bottom species.

Bahía de Los Ángeles

Yellowtail are the top local quarry at Bahia de Los Angeles. Inside the Bay, anglers can find the yellowtail around the inner Islands and Points, with some of the best nearby action centered around the northern end of the large Isla Smith (also called Coronado), where there are warm-season, 10 to 15-pound, yellowtail. These are usually caught on iron and bait in about 90 feet of water over various gravel bars. This fishing action should continue throughout June, when boats often find yellowtail feeding on the surface, peaking during the hottest summer months.  

Cabo San Lucas   

As expected, the striped marlin continues into the summer months. Of course, the number released varies daily, usually at least three days a week, with many boats producing double-digit releases. The dorado action has been marginal, with yellowfin tuna and roosterfish filling in the gaps. As May fades into June, the expectations are that the dorado bite will resume and the wahoo bite will continue. Anglers expect that the larger yellowfin will show as sea temps stabilize and that inshore, the roosterfish, and jack crevalle will be another option.

Puerto Los Cabos 

Photo San Jose Gordo Banks wahoo

The main target currently is wahoo. There has been a decent wahoo bite throughout recently. Surprisingly, most of the wahoo caught were later in the day, as only a few were picked up early in the morning. According to multiple reports, most of the bites came after 10 am. A few lucky anglers landed three in one day while losing a few more strikes. Most of these wahoo averaged 20 to 35 pounds, though we did have a handful in the 40-pound bracket. Most of the action came from fast-trolling rigged Ballyhoo. Some wahoo were also landed on the XRaps and Nomad DTXs. The biggest wahoo caught this week was a 76-pounder caught at the Outer Gordo while looking for marlin with rigged Ballyhoo.

There has only been a handful of tuna caught recently, though these were quality fish. Most of them were averaging 60 to 80 pounds. It has been hard to efficiently target these yellowfin as the needlefish are a nuisance many days. The few tuna we saw had been taken on live and dead sardina.

We currently have a great striped marlin bite going on, 15 to 20 miles from our Marina. Many boats have been spotting marlin schools throughout both Gordo’s.

We continue to catch good numbers of yellow snapper, amberjack, and grouper closer to shore and the Rock Structure. A few reports indicate that Palmilla Point has been producing the best action. Cardon is also one of the favorite spots.

Along our shoreline, we are seeing some nice roosterfish caught and released on live sardina and mullet. The best action came from La Laguna as one of our boats caught and released NINE throughout the morning while losing a few more. They also landed some small dorado and big jacks.

East Cape   

Fishing has gotten hot here!!

Yellowfin tuna and wahoo are just showing up, and striped marlin and dorado continue biting!!

La Paz  

It is sunny and getting warmer!  Nights are in the 70s, and daytime temperatures are in the high 90s, but it is very comfortable, because the humidity isn’t here yet.  Plus, if you get hot, jump in the ocean!

The water is getting bluer but not as warm as expected, as shown by the yellowtail and other coldwater species we are getting. But you can tell it’s getting warmer by more warm-water species showing up.

Quite a lineup!

There are dorado, yellowtail, amberjack, rainbow runner, marlin, tuna, wahoo, roosterfish, yellow snapper, pargo liso, pargo mulato, cabrilla, white bonito, skipjack, sierra, and triggerfish.

Note: The Las Arenas fleet provides more variety in fishing.  Primarily, nice yellowtail and a few dorado with the La Paz fleet.

Loreto  

It’s pleasant weather, and the excellent yellowtail bite continues. While the dorado are small and scarce, striped marlin and sailfish are farther offshore, according to some of the 54 teams that fished in the Marina Puerto Escondido Tournament.

A few locations up and down the Peninsula have been a tad slow getting up to speed for the usual summer bite. It’s still shaping up to be an exciting season. Please let me know if I missed an area you are interested in.

Gary Graham That Baja Guy  [email protected]  

With more than five decades of fishing experience – from light tackle and fly to offshore billfish – Gary Graham has experienced all aspects of fishing in the Southern California and Baja waters. His observations of species behavior, tackle and techniques are always from his unique perspective, earning him the respect of his peers as well as anglers who eagerly follow his Baja reports and features.      

Gary maintained a home at East Cape in Baja Sur for more than 18 years and still spends nearly half of each year exploring the entire peninsula in his self-contained Roadtrek van.  He observes everything Baja, from the mysteries of a tide pool on a deserted Baja beach filled with tiny sea creatures to the largest billfish in the sea.

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