pre trip inspection form abc

CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Checklist

Studying this Class-A CDL pre-trip inspection checklist is an important part of truck driver training. Before getting your Class-A CDL and finding an entry level truck driving job , most states will require students to pass a DOT (department of transportation) pre-trip inspection test and a general knowledge test .

Each company’s pre-trip inspection varies slightly. Most likely you will have to do the coupling system, light check and in-cab inspections plus one of the remaining three sections.

Pre Trip Inspection Checklist

Download free and print it! Printable Pre Trip Inspection Checklist (PDF)

There are many sections to learn but the test is not as difficult as it may seem. Studying our simplified Class-A pre-trip inspection checklist and taking classes at your local CDL training school will get you prepared.

Engine Compartment

Driver door fuel area, coupling area, light check, in-cab inspection and brake tests, belt driven alternator, belt driven water pump, brake chamber, brake lining, caste nuts and cotter pins, coolant reservoir, gear box and hoses, gear driven air compressor, gear driven power steering pump.

• General Hoses

Leaf Springs

Power steering fluid reservoir, shock absorber, slack adjuster and push rod, spring hanger, steering column, what to check for:.

When checking the engine compartment, you will always want to make sure the following components are properly mounted and secured. You should also make sure they are not cracked, bent or broken. The items you will need to check for include:

• Make sure all of the wires are connected. The belt should not be cracked or frayed and the free play on the belt should be between ½ to ¾ of an inch.
• The free play on the belt should be between ½ to ¾ of an inch. Also check all the hoses running to and from the water pump to make sure nothing is leaking.
• The brake chamber should not be leaking air.
• The brake drum should be properly mounted and secure.
• The brake hose is rubber, so it is important to make sure it is not leaking air.
• Check for oil or debris on the lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
• Make sure all three caste nuts and cotter pins are present.
• The reservoir should not leaking and must be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure the drag link is properly mounted and secure, and not cracked, bent or broken.
• The gear box and hoses should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts, and should not be leaking.
• Although the air compressor is hard to see, you must make sure it is properly mounted and does not leak.
• The steering pump is located in the same place as the air compressor and is also gear driven. Ensure the steering pump is not leaking.

General Hoses (Passenger and Driver’s Side)

• The hoses should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts. Fluids run through these hoses, so it is important to make sure they are not leaking.
• The hub seal (or axle seal) should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure none of the leaf springs have shifted.
• Check for leaks under the truck.
• There should be no lug nuts missing. Look for rust trails, powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes.
• The oil level should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure the pitman arm is properly mounted and secure. It should be not cracked, bent or broken.
• Make sure this reservoir is not leaking and filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• The rim cannot have any unauthorized welds.
• Make sure the shock absorber is not leaking. If it is leaking, the leak will be at the point where the top and bottom portion of the shock meet.
• With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod should never move more than one inch.
• The spring hanger should be properly mounted and secure.
• Make sure the steering column is properly mounted and secure. It should not be cracked, bent or broken.
• Look for abrasions, bulges or cuts on the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should have a depth no less than 4/32 of an inch. Tires must be properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.
• Make sure the tie rod is properly mounted and secure, not cracked, bent or broken.
• Make sure all are accounted for.

Back to top of Engine Compartment

Catwalk and Steps

Door and hinges, drive shaft, exhaust system, frame and cross members, spring mount.

Again it is important to make sure these items are properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends, and breaks.

• The actual airbag is rubber, so it is important to check for abrasions, bulges, cuts and leaks, in addition to any missing mounting bolts.
• The axle seal should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure to mention the brake chamber is not leaking air.
• Make sure the brake drum is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Check the brake hose at both ends to make sure it is not leaking air.
• There should be no oil or debris on the brake lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
• The cat walk and steps should be clear of any loose objects.
• Physically demonstrate that the doors open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or rotten.
• The drive shaft should not be twisted and the u-joints should be free of any debris.
• The tread and sidewalls should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts. The tread depth should be no less than 2/32 of an inch. Tires should be properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.
• The exhaust system should show no signs of leaks.
• There should be no unauthorized holes or welds. Bundle up the cross members to ensure none are missing.
• Fuel should not be leaking from the tank and the cap should always be on tight.
• Rust trails could indicate loose bolts, while powder residue and racks around the bolts could mean the bolts have been over-tightened.
• Mirrors should be clean for best visibility.
• Make sure the mud flap is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Make sure to mention there should be never be any unauthorized welds.
• The shock absorber should be secure at both ends and not leaking. If it does leak, it will leak in the middle.
• With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch.
• If you are equipped with duals, check to see there is proper spacing between the tires and there is nothing stuck.
• The spring arm should be secure at both ends.
• The spring mount should be secure at both ends.
• Make sure the torque arm is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Make sure to check and mention that no U-bolts are missing.

Back to  top of Driver Door Fuel Area

Electric Line

Locking jaws, mounting bolts, release arm, sliding fifth wheel locking pin.

• Air lines should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges or cuts. They should not be leaking, dragging or tangled.
• Make sure the apron is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Make sure there is enough space between the tractor mudflap and the trailer landing gear so that they don’t hit each other when making a turn.
• The electric line should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges, cuts or exposed wires.
• The gap is not an actual item, however there should be no space between the apron and the skid plate.
• The seals should be in good condition with no cracks, signs of rotting, or leaking air.
• Make sure the king pin is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• You must physically check that the locking jaws is fully locked around the king pin.
• No mounting bolts should be missing.
• Make sure the platform is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• The release arm should be in the fully locked position.
• The skid plate needs to be properly lubed.
• The pin must be in the fully locked position.

Back to top of Coupling Area

Header Board

Landing gear, rear door and hinges.

• Shock Absorbers

Tandem Frame and Release

Trailer tire.

• Again make sure the airbag has no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leakings. The airbag should not be missing any mounting bolts.
• The brake chamber should be properly mounted so that is does not leak air.
• The brake hose should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leaks.
• Check for oil or debris on the brake lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
• There cannot be any missing cross members.
• The header board cannot have any holes or missing rivets.
• The landing gear must be fully raised and the cradle handle secure.
• Rust trails indicate loose bolts. Powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes could be an indication of over-tightened bolts.
• The rims cannot have any unauthorized welds.
• The rear door should open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or dry rotten.
• The shock absorber should be checked at both ends for leaks.
• When the brakes are released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch.
• Release handle and locking pins should be in the fully locked position.

There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts to the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should be no less than 2/32 of an inch. The tire should be properly filled to manufacturer’s specifications and checked with an air gauge.

• Front of the truck
• Both sides of the truck
• Rear of the truck
• Both sides of the trailer
• Rear of the trailer

Back to top of Trailer

The five functions are:

• Left turn signal
• Right turn signal
• Four way flashers
• High/low beams
• Brake lights

Back to top of Light Check

• Airbrake Test

Air Pressure Gauges

Emergency equipment, heater and defroster, lighting indicators, oil pressure gauge, parking brake, service brake check, water temperature gauge, windshield and mirrors, windshield wipers and washers.

The last section is In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests. For the In-Cab Inspection you will once again want to make sure all of the following components are properly mounted and secure. As well as the following:

Air Brake Test

There are three stages to an air brake test:

• Applied Pressure Test – When doing the Applied Pressure Test, you will want to build the air pressure to governor cut out. Put the truck in the lowest gear, turn the engine off and immediately turn it back on. Push in the tractor and trailer valves which will then release the parking brakes. Push and hold the brake pedal, allowing the gauges to stabilize. When the gauges have stabilized, announce the Primary and Secondary PSI. Listen for air leaks while doing this.
• Warning Light and Buzzer – Pump down on the brake pedal until the warning light and buzzer comes on. This is typically at or before 60 PSI.
• Tractor/Trailer Protection Valve Pop Out – Pump down on the brake pedal until the tractor and trailer protection valves pop out, this will be between 20 and 40 PSI.
• The air pressure gauges should build to governor cut out.
• Your truck should have a fire extinguisher, three red reflective triangles and spare electrical fuses.
• Demonstrate both the heater and defroster are working properly.

Horns (Air Horn and City Horn)

• Blow both horns to make sure they are working.
• Check the left turn, right turn, four way flashers and high beams; also point these out on the dashboard.
• Make sure transmission is in neutral and then fully depress the clutch. Turn the key on, check the ABS light, announce when it comes on and off, and start the engine.
• The seat belt should not be ripped or frayed and should adjust and latch properly.
• The engine oil pressure gauge should rise to normal operating range.
• Trailer Parking Brakes – Set the trailer brake, release the tractor brake, then tug lightly on the trailer.
• Tractor Parking Brakes – Set the tractor brake, release the trailer brake and tug lightly on the trailer.
• Release both the tractor and trailer brakes. Drive at idle speed. Apply the service brake to make sure you come to a complete stop and that it doesn’t pull to the left or right when applying the brakes.
• The voltmeter should be charging between 13 and 14 volts.
• The water temperature gauge should also rise to normal operating range.
• The windshield and mirrors must be clean, with no obstructions and in proper adjustment.
• Demonstrate the wipers and washers are working properly by spraying the windshield.

Back to top of In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests

During a CDL pre-trip inspection, truckers inspect many aspects of their commercial vehicle, including the overall safety of the vehicle; major hoses, fluid levels, and vehicle belts; the clutch or gear shift; and emergency equipment. The driver demonstrates their knowledge by walking around the vehicle, checking various safety components and explaining why each part should be checked for safety.

Reference and practice tests:

• Printable Pre Trip Inspection Checklist (PDF)
• CDL General Knowledge Practice Test
• Pre Trip Inspection Practice Test
• CDL HAZMAT Endorsement Practice Test

Edited for 2024 on  12/5/23

Best Free CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Checklist | Trucker Safety & Profit

Table of Contents

The indispensable CDL pre trip inspection checklist is one of the most important rituals of a driver's day. Industry veterans know this routine like the back of their hands—it's that vital to the trade— but new drivers struggle with how to remember their CDL pre trip inspections, especially for the exam.

Drivers are required to complete this walkthrough at least every 24 hours, after their mandatory 10-hour break. A detailed inspection can safeguard not only your safety but also that of everyone else on the road.

This article will walk you through an exhaustive checklist to follow before every trip, as well as the potential costs of not doing so. We've designed this list with YOU in mind, so we're throwing in some money-making tips that will help you avoid steep fines and costly repairs.

"Spotting and fixing vehicle defects early on keeps you safe and your truck in good shape."

Why Following the CDL Pre-Inspection Checklist is So Important

The price of a failed DOT inspection makes completing a thorough CDL pre trip inspection checklist even more pressing. Violations can cost carriers thousands each year in both penalties and out-of-service (OOS) trucks. According to the FMCSA, around 20% of vehicles are OOS due to failed inspections at any given time. For an owner-operator, this means you'd be paying thousands in vehicle payments on a truck that's not earning you any money.

The pre trip checklist is designed to avoid any possible accidents due to equipment failure and failed safety inspections. A few minutes of caution pays for itself ten-fold down the line.

DOT & Truck Inspection

• Steer Axle/ Rear Suspension
• Side of Cab
• Rear of Cab

Driver Shaft/Rear Frame

• Trailer Front/Side/Rear- Trailer Suspension

Gauges/Inner Truck

• DVIR form fill out

"Most pre-trip truck inspection lists cover safety. We go beyond that with time and money-saving tips in our pre-trip inspection checklist PDF." - Brian Smith, Director, Global Marketing of Cota Systems

• Get the Google Sheet
• Download the Printable PDF

General Tips Throughout Your Pre-Trip Inspection

Because you don't have access to a pre trip inspection checklist during the CDL exam, drivers have created a few tricks to pass this part of the test. The most common memorization tricks are:

BBC: Is any plastic or metal bent, broken, or cracked?

CDL: No hard materials should be cracked, damaged or loose.

ABC: Are there any abrasions, bulges, or cuts on the rubber?

PFL: Peak for leaks in fluid and air containers.

PMS: Are bolts properly mounted and secure?

ABCDF: Do you see abrasions, bulges, cuts, dry rot, or frays?

A bit of common sense will help you put these acronyms to good use. For example, there's no way BBC would apply to rubber, as rubber wouldn't be bent, cracked, or broken. Most drivers pick one for each material type and stick with it until they get more comfortable with the list.

What are the ABCS in a pre-trip inspection?

As mentioned above, the ABCs refer to Abrasions, Bulges, and Cuts to check for during the Class A CDL pre-trip inspection. This applies to rubber or soft surfaces - things like tires, hoses, and rubber bushings.

How Long Should a Proper CDL Checklist & Inspection Take?

Ideally, it takes 15-30 minutes to run through the CDL pre trip inspection checklist depending on experience level and whether or not any issues are found. If issues are found, they must be fixed right then, before taking any more loads.

The cost of preventative maintenance averages $15,000 per truck per year. This figure is a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of inoperable equipment. Breakdowns and crashes due to mechanical failure cost carriers billions industry-wide. Consider an owner-op paying $3,500 per month on insurance and loan payments. Those payments still have to be made regardless of whether the truck is in the shop or on the road. Adds up quickly right? Spending a bit of extra time and money on prevention keeps trucks on the road and earning money.

Get your Free CDL Pre-Trip Inspection checklist today!

Standard cdl pre trip inspection checklist.

Our pre-trip inspection Class A checklist serves two purposes: helping new drivers pass this portion of the CDL exam, and guiding CDL holders through the process with 100% accuracy every time.

A few exam tips before the pre-trip checklist:

• Point to or physically touch each area being inspected. This will help your memory and prove you know your stuff.
• Start with a big section and break it down into small sections from left to right like reading a book.
• During the test, make at least 2 checks for every item or area.

▢ Hoses: all hoses should be secured on both ends with no splits or cuts

▢ Fluids: engine oil, washer fluid, coolants, and power steering

▢ Belts: no more than 1/2"" to 3/4"" of give, securely mounted with no fraying ends

▢ Alternator: securely mounted, belt in good shape

▢ Water pump: properly mounted with no split or leaking hoses

▢ Air compressor: securely mounted, no visible or audible leaks

If Left Unchecked:

Oil leaks and coolant issues are two of the most common breakdown causes, both of which can be spotted during pre-trip. Scheduling dry maintenance every 10,000-25,000 miles and wet maintenance every 25,000-50,000 miles can prevent most engine issues. These regular services, ranging from $50-$450 , are nothing compared to the price of replacing or rebuilding an engine - $20,000 - $40,000 . Thorough pre-trip inspections are the best way to avoid engine breakdowns and escalated damage.

▢ Brake Pads: ¼ minimum brake pad thickness

▢ Slack Adjuster: 1” of play and at a 90' angle to the brake chamber

▢ Brake Chamber : no audible leaks or visible damage

▢ Brake Hose: securely mounted, no audible leaks, splits, or cuts

▢ Brake Drum: no bluing from excessive heat, securely mounted

Brake problems are the most common cause of semi-truck accidents . While over-breaking is a big player in this, a lack of maintenance and unnoticed airline damage usually play roles, too. 

Brake pad replacement costs $150-$300 per axle ($750-$1,500 total) and $80-$160 per hour in labor. The consequences of brake failure are incalculable - body repairs, cargo damage, and strikes to your carrier safety rating will follow you. The last thing you want to deal with is higher insurance premiums or trouble getting placed on loads. Take this part of your pre-trip inspection extra seriously.

• Front: clearance lights, headlights, high beams, turn signals, flashers
• Sides: turn signals, flashers, clearance lights
• Rear: tail lights, brake lights, left turn, right turn, 4-way flashers
• Front: clearance lights
• Rear: clearance lights, tail lights, license plate lights, brake lights, turn signals, flashers

▢ Reflector Tape: clear, free of dirt

If Left Unchecked:  

Fines for a headlight out vary from state to state, but the consequences of non-functioning brake lights or turn signals could confuse drivers and create unsafe situations. Both of these can be spotted and fixed during a pre-trip inspection. It's easy to run to the shop and change the light yourself if possible. License plate bulbs are just a few cents, and headlight kits range from $40-$250 . Don't add the price of a ticket on top from getting pulled over!

On the topic of lights, it's important to note that warning lights like the engine light or battery alert light should be addressed immediately to avoid developing into bigger issues down the road.

▢ Wheel inside: not broken, no illegal welds

▢ Wheel outside: no cracks or illegal welds

▢ Tires: no cuts or bulges, air gauge matches manufacturer recommendations, tread depth at least 4/32" and evenly worn

▢ Spacing: duals are properly spaced

▢ Valve Stem: not audibly leaking. metal cap in place and secure

▢ Lug Nuts: present, tight, no cracks

▢ Hub Seal: not cracked or loose

Tire problems cause 8,000 truck accidents per year. While flats are sometimes unpreventable, blowouts can be caused by improper inflation , which can also shorten the lifespan of your tires via irregular wear and tear. Timely alignments and rotations can also keep tires running longer; the price of new big rig tires is from $250 to $600 . A tire blowout mid-load can make you miss your appointment and waste precious driving hours - all the more reason to be thorough in your truck inspection.

Something to keep in mind is the way you conduct your pre-trip checklist is important. For example, there are a lot of videos and content showing truckers how to check their tires by kicking, beating, and even using a hammer. Hitting a tire with force like that, in the right spot (damaged) can lead to a blow-up and severely injure you and your truck. Even lugging around a damaged tire can lead to a blow-up . Stay safe and take all necessary precautions!

Steer Axle/Rear Suspension

▢ Steering Shaft: not BBC, securely mounted

▢ Steering Gear Box: not BBC, securely mounted, no visible leaks

▢ Hose: no visible leaks, properly mounted

▢ Pitman Arm: not BBC, securely mounted, nuts and pins are all hardware is present and secure

▢ Drag Link: rubber is in good shape, bushings are properly greased and not split or cut

▢ Upper/Lower Control Arms and Tie Rod: not BBC, securely mounted

▢ Spring Mounts: not BBC, securely mounted

▢ Leaf Springs:  not BBC, securely mounted, not shifted or scissored

▢ U-bolts: not BBC, securely mounted, all accounted for

▢ Shock Absorber: not BBC, securely mounted, no visible leaks, rubber bushings aren't dry rotting

If Left Unchecked: 

On their own, each of these parts isn't a huge deal to replace. For example, 

• Steering Shafts: $100-$300
• Pitman Arms: $50-$200
• Steering Gear Box: $150-750
• Shock Absorber: $50 - $90

On the other end of the spectrum, neglect can lead to the truck leaning to one side, which can cause further damage. Blown shock absorbers will also make your truck hard to handle, steer, and control. Say it takes a mechanic 3-5 days to diagnose and fix a suspension issue. You could lose out on $1,000 - $3,000 in earnings that week, plus the several hundred it will cost in repairs. Spotting these issues during your 15-minute pre-trip inspection could save you thousands.

▢ Mirrors: mirrors adjusted properly and without cracks, free of dirt

▢ Foot Pedals: unobstructed

▢ Horns: functioning properly

▢ Windshield: no stickers, cracks, or excessive dirt

▢ Heater/defrost: both operate when the fan is set to max

▢ Wipers: arms move properly when turned on, and wiper fluid works

▢ Steps: mounted and secured

▢ DEF cap: secured

▢ Fuel cap: gasket and vent in place, chain secures cap to the tank

▢ Skirting: no damage, panels secure

To be mid-trip and discover your defrost or wipers don't work can be a scary feeling. A suddenly obstructed view with no way to clear it is what the in cab inspection is meant to avoid.

With the average truck eating up $15,000 per year in maintenance and repairs, it's the little things that add up to such a steep number. For example, fixing a windshield can cost anywhere from $500 - $2,000, depending on the truck type and severity of damage. Wiper blades cost $14 - $35 on average, and an AC compressor would cost around $200 to fix/replace . It's easy to see how these numbers add up fast, but waiting until something breaks on the road and taking on the cost of an OOS violation can quickly double and even triple those numbers.

▢ Frame: no illegal welds, not BBC, no rust

▢ Drive Shaft: not BBC, properly mounted, not twisted, and the U-joints are clean

▢ Universal joint: not BBC

▢ Differential: no leaks

Rusting frames and chassis can be prevented and stopped in their tracks with preventative protective sprays . To protect a drive shaft, keep it free of dirt and debris and make sure it's well lubricated. The price of a new driveshaft is around $1,200 . The cost of checking it during pre-trip is free. Remember, the purpose of a pre trip inspection Class A is to not only keep you safe but to spot mechanical issues before they get worse.

▢ Bolts/Bracket: all accounted for and secure, not broken or bent

▢ Locking pins: all accounted for and secure, not broken or bent

▢ Release Handle: releases freely and is in the locked position.

▢ Apron: no cracks, no gap between apron and 5th wheel plate, securely fastened

▢ Skid Plate: no cracks, properly greased, securely mounted

▢ Platform: securely mounted, not cracked or broken, no illegal welds

▢ Kingpin/Locking Jaws: locking jaws are wrapped around kingpin, which is straight with no chips or welds

▢ Air Lines: securely mounted at both ends. Lines are free of cuts, no audible leaks.

▢ Electrical line: secured at both ends. Lines are free of cuts, no audible leaks.

The consequence of worn brackets or pins is accidental uncoupling, otherwise known as dropping a trailer. Not only can this cause accidents, but it can damage the trailer and the cargo inside. In these cases, the carrier is almost always liable for any damages.

▢ Header Board: properly mounted and secured, not BBC, no missing rivets

▢ Clearance lights: not loose, cracked, or dirty 

▢ Top rail: No cracks or collision damage.

▢ Rivets, holes: no holes, all rivets in place.

▢ Landing gear: properly mounted and secured, not BBC, shoes are present, handle moves freely

▢ DOT tape: covers at least 50%, not dirty or peeling

▢ Floor: no holes

▢ Cross members: none are damaged, missing, or twisting

▢ Tandem release: properly mounted and secured, not BBC

▢  Slide rail: properly mounted and secured, not BBC

▢  Pins: engaged

▢ Clearance lights: not cracked or dirty

▢ Doors: not broken, no holes, seal intact

▢ Hinges:   securely mounted, not BBC

▢ Door handles and rods: securely mounted, functioning properly

▢ Lights: securely mounted, not cracked or dirty

▢ DOT tape: clean, covers 100% of the backside of the trailer

▢ Bumper: properly secured, not BBC

The trailer keeps your precious cargo safe. Issues with the cross members, flooring, or doors leave cargo unsecured and exposed to the elements. Of this list, the most expensive fix is replacing or repairing cross members. Just one broken cross member puts a truck OOS, and repair/replacement costs thousands , mostly in labor. How can they get damaged?

• sloppy hooking/unhooking
• exposure to the elements
• uneven loading
• punctures from inside the trailer
• blown tires

If you notice trailer damage during your Class A pre-trip inspection, you'll have to get it fixed before taking any more loads.

▢ Air pressure: set to proper operating range, no warning lights

▢ Temperature gauge: rising to proper operating range, no warnings

▢ Oil pressure: rising to proper operating range (25-50 PSI), no warnings

▢ Voltmeter: operational, 13 - 14 volts

▢ Dashboard light indicators: check the indicators for the high beams, turn signals, and flashers.

▢ Fuel: gauge matches visual compared to looking in the tank

▢ Tachometer: 1000-1500

▢ Water temperature: 180-205 degrees

▢ Def level: minimum of one light bar

If these gauges don't pass the pre trip inspection Class A checklist, it's likely due to faulty wiring or a fuse issue. You'll have to identify the source or take it to someone who can.

Simple electrical fixes can be done on your own. At a mechanic, a blown fuse costs around $100 to repair, and a full rewiring can cost anywhere from $1,000 - $2,000 .

Preventative maintenance includes replacing old connections with more modern technology and having circuit protectors checked during regular maintenance.

A DVIR, or Driver's Daily Vehicle Inspection Report, is the form that drivers fill out during the Class A pre-trip inspection and at the end of their day. It's designed to keep the company informed of any missing or damaged parts of the truck, keep maintenance costs as low as possible, and keep trucks on the road safely.

Drivers should keep their completed forms accessible and stored for up to 6 months, just in case they're asked to pull them for reference.

Most Common Issues Found During Pre Trip Inspection

Below are the most common issues found while running through a CDL pre trip inspection checklist. If left unchecked, these things can lead to getting pulled over and receiving a violation, or worse, causing a breakdown where you or others are hurt. 

Here's a run-through of what to do if you run into these common issues and how to avoid them."

Broken Lights

What to Do:

The first of the three L's (lights, leaks, and leans), broken lights are an easy way to get pulled over and trigger a full-blown roadside inspection. If you notice an issue with one of the many lights during your truck inspection, you're required (and it's in your best interest) to get a replacement immediately.

How to Avoid This:

Obviously, there's no way to avoid lights going out. However, you can avoid faulty reflectors by getting regular washes, especially if you've driven somewhere rural or salted. Shippers appreciate a clean truck, too.

Maintenance as a Money Saver:

Lighting violations are known as ""gateway violations"" because they open the door to law enforcement noticing other things wrong with the truck. This makes staying on top of maintenance even more pressing. For example, most new reflectors cost around $5 each . If you get pulled over for missing or faulty reflectors, it could trigger an inspection that makes you A) sit still and waste hours, B) miss your appointments, C) end up OOS, and D) get in trouble with your company.

Leaning is the second of the three L's. A leaning truck could indicate

• tire problems
• faulty suspension
• worn spring bushings
• airbag issues

The first step is to check out the above mechanisms yourself for any noticeable worn springs or airbag problems. To avoid damaging any equipment even further, go to the shop after your pre-trip inspection and get it checked out.

Uneven loading puts excess strain on the truck and can cause leaning over time. You have every right to ask shippers to fix uneven or shoddy loading.

A new leaf spring is one common solution to fixing a leaning truck. Costing anywhere from $80 - $450 , it's a solid first step compared to full suspension repair which costs $1,000 - $2,000.

The last of the three L's are leaks. When you look on the ground near the engine, do you see any puddles or fluids? There are three common sources:

• power steering
• water leaks
• brake fluid

Identify the source. What type of liquid is it? Does it smell? How big is the puddle? Is the radiator cap secured and not broken? If you can identify the problem and fix it - great. If not, make a call to the nearest shop.

The reason you check every bolt and hose on the pre trip inspection Class A checklist is to avoid these mystery leaks. Preventative maintenance is key.

Maintenance as a Money Saver: 

It's a lot cheaper to replace nuts and bolts than it is to replace an entire system that's been damaged due to ongoing leaking. Driving with a leaking radiator can damage engine bay components and require repairs to a chain of other parts. If the problem was the radiator gasket, for example, the cost of a replacement would only be around $40 .

The limit for tread depth is 4/32" on steer tires and 2/32" on others to pass a Class A pre trip inspection. Sometimes tires look good during inspection, but after a long haul, treads have worn down too low. 

Tire replacement should be prompt - blowouts happen all the time and can do serious damage to the underside of the trailer. Check if the tire is still under warranty, and have it and any others replaced ASAP.

Make sure tires are always filled to the manufacturer's recommendation and ideally the same PSI in each tire. Note that tread loss accelerates in extreme heat. Tires gain about 1 pound of pressure every 10 degrees as the temperature increases. Asphalt can be 20-50 degrees hotter than the air; keep that in mind before thinking any bulges or worn tread will be fine.

New big rig tires cost $250 - $600 , or $0.04 per mile. Because of the high cost, many large fleets are opting for imported tires to keep costs down. Research reviews on the brand you have in mind first - many have bad reviews from truckers. Here's a video that shows how much time can be lost by blowing a steer tire.

Overheating

Pull over safely and legally. Give the truck some time to cool down in idle. Try turning the heat on to get some of that heat out of the engine - it will feel uncomfortable but protecting the engine is worth it. Check to see if the radiator is jammed with debris or has bent fins. An overheating truck could be difficult to diagnose, and you'll most likely have to have a mobile mechanic come to you. If you were going up a steep grade, it might have just been the way you were driving.

• Keep the radiator clean
• Check the muffler for soot build-up in older trucks
• Don't use cruise control in hilly areas
• Don't overload the trailer

Constant overheating can be hard to diagnose, and it can make you chronically late to appointments. Regular maintenance and a thorough CDL pre trip inspection Class A are where the little details can be spotted and nipped in the bud.

Cota Systems Make More Money Per Mile CDL Pre-Trip Checklist

We know the struggle of hauling empty or partially full trucks and deadheading between every load. Our solution? Seamlessly connecting truckers with available LTL loads that complement their route and trailer capacity. Free and easy to use, Cota Systems™ platform makes it simple to earn more money per mile. We'll send you available LTL truck loads on your preferred routes as soon as they're posted.

Simply sync all of your favorite load boards into Cota Systems™ for easy browsing and instant notifications.

COTA SYSTEMS™ Mobile App

Cota Systems™ mobile app connects drivers with new loads and their dispatchers no matter where they are.

• Extra loads on the road.
• Scan and send documents.
• Keep track of your earnings.
• Seamless dispatch integration.
• Real-time load notifications.
• Stay connected anywhere.

Whether you're trying to figure out how to find box truck loads , or you just aim to connect in real-time, anytime, staying efficient on the road makes the difference between staying profitable and staying afloat.

Our trucking dispatch software is completely free and feature-rich, saving teams time on paperwork and document sharing. The platform integrates seamlessly with the driver app simplifying everything from load finding to billing.

How Cota Systems™ helps drivers 10X their income:

• Eliminates wasted miles with convenient LTL and partial load boards
• Efficient document uploading and one-click billing
• Communicate with shippers in the same app
• Load board syncing cuts down the time it takes to book a load

Bypass Construction

The DOT 511 traffic app provides state-specific traffic and construction updates. Check for delays on your route to get ahead of detours and lane closures. Each state has their own app, so download it ahead of time.

Why does it matter? If you earn $0.60 per mile on a 400-mile trip, that's $240 earned in roughly 8 hours. Now, say traffic adds 1.5 hours to your trip. You still earn the same $240 AND you don't have the opportunity to pick up another load before you reset. Time is money!"

In 2016, truckers were delayed a total of 1.2 billion hours because of congestion on the road - that's in the billions! Truck bottlenecks are mostly common in major cities. Planning your route ahead of time to avoid traffic delays is crucial to your bottom line.

Weather Apps

Winter and summer storms can eat into income and create seriously dangerous roads. Depending on the weather, you might be able to plan a different route to avoid delays or change the time and place you stop to rest. The AccuWeather app is a popular choice among drivers. 

The horror stories of drivers getting stuck at a rest stop for days or getting blown over by strong winds paint the ugly picture of the weather as a driver's biggest opponent.

Truck Parking

After finishing your Class A CDL pre trip inspection, take a few minutes to map out overnight parking spots along your route. American Truck Parking does a good job of showing truck stops and rest areas that offer overnight parking, as well as the pricing, pictures, and other amenities. You can filter out for gated parking spots, CAT scales, showers, truck washes, and much more. Compare pricing beforehand and save yourself the cash!

Speaking of cash, it's important to take advantage of freight factoring. This method can offer truckers immediate cash flow, while waiting on customers to pay.

In addition to managing your cash flow, be sure to consider freight insurance , this protects your trucks and cargo from any potential risk during transit.

Dock Details

Headed to a new shed? Check them out on Dock 411 to confirm things like pallet restrictions and hours of operation. Not sure if you can fit? Most places have pictures that other drivers took or reviews about slow loading and yard hazards.

The benefit? This helps plan things like getting lunch, calculating hours, and knowing whether or not you even want to take a certain load. If you see reviews that a shed has an average 7-hour loading time (the standard is 2.5 hours ), you can have a conversation with dispatch early on to make a game plan regarding detention and/or layovers.

While researching docks, don't put your well-being on the back-burner. Be sure to invest in the right truck mattress for a good night's sleep during layovers or breaks.

Gas Buddy helps truckers find the cheapest gas prices along their route. While you're looking, you can see what stops have showers, food, repairmen, and other amenities so you can save time at a 1-stop shop.

For reference, the average owner-operator spends $45,605 on fuel per year ( 2022 ). Company drivers don't usually have this problem since they have discounted fuel cards. (You can get fuel cards with Cota Systems , too). To learn more, check out our post on the best fuel cards for truckers.

Legally Bypass Inspection Sites

Did we mention that time is money? Another way to save time is with Drivewyze , an in-cab app for driver devices that provides inspection bypass opportunities at 884 weigh stations across the states. When bypass isn't allowed, they have an e-inspection system that speeds up the process and avoids long lines. It sounds too good to be true, but it's 100% legal and works 89% of the time. Prepass is another company that offers this service.

Weigh station stops can take anywhere from 30 minutes to a few hours if lines are long or they find something wrong with your truck. That 30-minute stop could have earned you $15 (at $0.60/mile for 25 miles). Doing so every day could cost you $300/month, and that's IF the stops only take 30 minutes!

Most drivers use a combination of navigation apps. Hammer and Google Maps are popular choices. Systems made specifically for truckers won't take you down prohibited roads - that's why Google Maps alone might not cut it.

Health Apps

Recent studies found that workers who take care of their mental health average 9.3 fewer sick days per year than workers who don't. The life expectancy of truck drivers is 61 years , partly due to their unhealthy lifestyle and work-related stress. Your health is just as important as any CDL pre-trip list. Obesity is one of the most prevalent health issues in the trucking industry for long-haul drivers. These healthy habits can save you down the line:

• Skip the fast food, sugary snacks, and sodas.
• Find a way to manage your stress. Talking to a friend while you drive or finding a podcast that you enjoy are two common solutions.
• Exercise during home days focusing on your back.
• Switch up your stimulants. Instead of Redbull every day, try green tea, coffee, or Yerba Mate a few days per week.

Try out some apps like MyFitnessPal for weight loss and nutrient tracking or Luminosity for mental health support.

OTR drivers can take advantage of toll services like Prepass (which also serves as a weigh station bypass) and Best Pass , a prepaid transponder system. If a toll company isn't covered, it's best to just use cash and keep your receipt. A few tips:

• Take a second to review toll prices on your trip. Any tolls should be factored in when dispatch discusses rates, especially in cities.
• Find and join any toll discount program you can find (take the New York toll reimbursement program, for example)
• Best Pass offers cash toll discounts, but you should verify that the transponder rate wouldn't have been the same (and much faster).

How to Remember Pre Trip Inspection CDL Checklist

Start with our printable CDL pre trip inspection cheat sheet and repeat, repeat, repeat. Use the same checklist every time so your brain can get into that rhythm. Remember the acronyms:

BBC: Bent, broken, or cracked

ABC: Abrasions, bruises, cuts

PFL: Peak for leaks

3 L's: Lights, leaks, leans

Understanding the mechanics of the truck and how everything works together will help your brain form stronger connections and remember more. Try explaining the process to your wife, kids, or friends (even if they won't remember) so you can spot areas you need to study the CDL pre trip inspection PDF more.

What is the item most commonly overlooked during a pre trip inspection?

A few items on the CDL pre trip inspection checklist trip up new drivers most often:

• Chocks: During your CDL class a pre trip inspection, you'll have the vehicle on and off, and be testing various brake systems. Chocks prevent the truck from moving around while you're underneath and walking around.
• Seatbelts: It's often the last thing on a new driver's mind on the long list of items to inspect. But, your life depends on it.
• Emergency Kit: Especially if you drive a shared truck, you don't know if the previous driver used up anything in the kit. Just because you see the kit doesn't mean everything is present and functional.
• Reflectors: Reflectors help other vehicles see you at night. Because there are so many, drivers rush through this check or give them a quick glance. These are another "gateway violation" that can get you pulled over and given a roadside inspection.
• Wheel Lug Nuts: Loose wheel fasteners could have your tires speeding down the freeway toward other cars and trucks. Double-check that all lug nuts are fastened and free of rust.
• Personal Health: Remember the figures we mentioned about truck driver life expectancy. Put your health first, and don't drive if you feel sick and feverish.

This is all about the safety of you and others. Keep your pre trip inspection Class A cheat sheet with you and go through the same, thorough motions every time.

CDL Class B Pre Trip Inspection

The CDL Class B pre trip inspection follows virtually the same guidelines as Class A, but they differ in terms of vehicle type. 

Class B includes buses, straight trucks, and smaller commercial vehicles that are typically not designed to tow additional trailers. Items like the 5th wheel and coupling mechanisms are obviously left off. Drivers have to check passenger doors, wheelchair lifts, handrails, emergency exits, and seating for passenger safety.

New Truck Pre-Inspection Checklist Addition

Non owner-operators who are regularly assigned new trucks can't take for granted that everything was left as you might have left it. Add these to your pre-inspection checklist:

• Cab card & book: permits, registration, IFTA paperwork, and cab cards are present and up-to-date
• IFTA Sticker: current year is displayed on both sides of the truck
• Elog Device: present and functional
• Permits: in the cab card book and up to date
• License Plate: front and back plates match
• Medical Card: med card and CDL are on your person or in the truck
• Paper Logbook: backup if E-log stops working
• Inspection sticker: stuck to the side of the truck and up-to-date
• FMCSA Safety Book: within arms reach of the driver's seat

Additional Supplies: load securing equipment, extra coolant and oil, cable cutters, hammer and wrench, hard hat, and steel-toed boots, and any wisdom you've gained from recent semi truck shows for the latest in safety and efficiency enhancements.

Final Notes on Completing Your CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Checklist

So, you're armed with the ultimate CDL pre trip inspection checklist that will help you pass your exam and save on vehicle maintenance. Your truck is your money maker; our goal for this guide is to give drivers the tools to protect their biggest asset and keep the most money in their pockets as they can. That includes showing you the best truck driver accessories and the best trucking GPS , so you'll be set for the long-haul.

Learn more about how to earn more money and truck driver pay in our blog . Here's another link to the pre trip inspection Class A PDF . Good luck!

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Mastering the CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Exam: A Complete Guide

Learn how to conduct thorough pre-trip inspections with our guide, a critical component for commercial vehicle safety.

Written by Andrei Zakhareuski. With over 16 years of expertise, Andrei leads Driving-Tests.org, a top online resource for driver education. His leadership has established vital partnerships with over 2,600 libraries, educational bodies, and state agencies.

The CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Exam is an integral part of obtaining your commercial driver’s license. This guide covers Class A and Class B pre-trip inspections, provides a checklist, and offers tips for memorizing the inspection process.

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​ CDL Class A Pre-Trip Inspection

Engine Compartment Inspection

Includes checking for leaks, belt tension, and the condition of hoses, among other components.

Cab Check/Engine Start

Involves inspecting the cab’s interior, gauges, and starting the engine to check for abnormalities.

Brake Check

Focuses on air brake systems, including air brake checks and the parking brake test.

​ CDL Class B Pre-Trip Inspection

Vehicle Overview

Begin with a general overview of the vehicle, checking for obvious signs of damage or issues.

External Inspection

Inspect all external components, including tires, lights, and mirrors.

Internal Inspection

Check all internal controls, ensuring everything is functional and within reach.

​ Pre-Trip Inspection Checklist

• Lights and reflector s: Ensure all are clean and functional.
• Engine oil and coolant levels : Check for adequate levels.
• Steering mechanism : Ensure it’s secure and functioning.
• Horn : Test for functionality.
• Windshield wipers : Check for operability and condition.
• Mirror s: Adjust for optimal visibility.
• Emergency equipment : Ensure presence and accessibility.
• Air brake system : Test for leaks and proper pressure.

​ Tips for Memorizing the Pre-Trip Inspection for CDL

• Create a Routine : Develop a consistent order in which to conduct your inspection.
• Use Mnemonics : Create acronyms or phrases to help remember the steps.
• Practice Regularly : Hands-on practice is the most effective way to memorize the inspection process.
• Visual Aids : Use diagrams or checklists as visual reminders.

Pro Tip : Practice the pre-trip inspection in a real-world setting. The more you perform the inspection in a practical environment, the more natural it will become.

Remember, the pre-trip inspection is not just a test requirement – it’s a fundamental safety practice every commercial driver should master. For more resources and detailed guides, visit Driving-Tests.org .

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The Complete Pre-Trip Inspection Checklist

Due to heavy memorization, the pre-trip inspection is one of the hardest aspects of the CDL test. Also called the “Vehicle Inspection Test,” the pre-trip is one of the tests that trucking students fail the most.

With this pre-trip inspection checklist, we tell you everything you need to know and what you need to check for.   

Engine Compartment – What to Check For:

When checking the engine compartment, you always want to make sure the following components are properly mounted and secured. You should also make sure they are not cracked, bent, or broken. The items you need to check for include:

Belt-Driven Alternator

All of the wires are connected. The belt is not cracked or frayed, and the free play on the belt is between ½ to ¾ of an inch.

Belt-Driven Water Pump

The free play on the belt is between ½ to ¾ of an inch, and all the hoses running to and from the water pump are tightly clamped. Ensure nothing is leaking.

Brake Chamber

The brake chamber is not leaking air.

The brake drum is properly mounted and secure.

The brake hose is rubber; it is not cracked and is not leaking air.

Brake Lining

Check for oil or debris on the lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.

Caste Nuts and Cotter Pins

All three caste nuts and cotter pins are present.

Coolant Reservoir

The reservoir is not leaking and is filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

 The drag link is properly mounted and secure, and not cracked, bent or broken.

Gear Box and Hoses

The gear box and hoses have no abrasions, bulges or cuts, and are not leaking.

Gear-Driven Air Compressor

The air compressor is properly mounted and does not leak.

Gear-Driven Power Steering Pump

The steering pump is properly mounted and not leaking.

General Hoses (Passenger and Driver’s Side)

The hoses are secure at both ends and are not leaking. There are no abrasions, bulges, or cuts.

The hub seal (or axle seal) is leaking and is filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Leaf Springs

None of the leaf springs have shifted or are bent or broken.

There are no signs of leaks under the truck.

There are no lug nuts missing. There are no rust trails, powder residue, or cracks around the bolt holes.

The oil level is filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

The pitman arm is properly mounted and secure. It is not cracked, bent, or broken.

Power Steering Fluid Reservoir

The power steering reservoir is not leaking and is filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

The rim does not have any unauthorized welds.

Shock Absorber

The shock absorber is not leaking. If it is leaking, the leak will be at the point where the top and bottom portion of the shock meet.

Slack Adjuster and Push Rod

With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod does not move more than one inch.

Spring Hanger

The spring hanger is properly mounted and secure.

Steering Column

The steering column is properly mounted and secure. It is not cracked, bent, or broken.

There are no abrasions, bulges, or cuts on the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should have a depth no less than 4/32 of an inch. Tires are properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.

The tie rod is properly mounted and secure, not cracked, bent, or broken.

Make sure all are accounted for.

Driver Door Fuel Area-What to Check For:

Remember – during the pre-trip inspection, you want to make sure these items are properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends, and breaks.

The actual airbag has no abrasions, bulges, cuts, or leaks. The airbag is not missing mounting bolts.

The axle seal is not leaking and is filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

The brake drum is secured properly and has no cracks, bends or breaks.

Check the brake hose at both ends to make sure it is not leaking air.

There is no oil or debris on the brake lining. There is at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.

Catwalk and Steps

The cat walk and steps are clear of any loose objects.

Door and Hinges

The doors open, close, and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn, or rotten.

Drive Shaft

The drive shaft is not twisted, and the u-joints are free of any debris.

The tread and sidewalls have no abrasions, bulges, or cuts. The tread depth is no less than 2/32 of an inch. Tires are properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.

Exhaust System

The exhaust system shows no signs of leaks.

Frame and Cross Members

There are no unauthorized holes or welds. Bundle up the cross members to ensure none are missing.

Fuel is not leaking from the tank, and the cap is on tight.

There are no rust trails, loose bolts, powder residue, or cracks around the bolts.

Mirrors are clean, with no cracks or chips.

The mud flap is secured properly, with no cracks, bends and breaks.

There are no unauthorized welds.

The shock absorber is secure at both ends and not leaking. If it does leak, it is preferable to leak in the middle.

There is proper spacing between the tires and there is nothing stuck.

The spring arm is secure at both ends.

Spring Mount

The spring mount is secure at both ends.

The torque arm is secured properly, with no cracks, bends or breaks.

No u-bolts are missing.

Coupling Area-What to Check For:

Air lines should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges, or cuts. They should not be leaking, dragging, or tangled.

Make sure the apron is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends, and breaks.

Make sure there is enough space between the tractor mud flap and the trailer landing gear, so that they don’t hit each other when making a turn.

Electric Line

The electric lines are secure at both ends. There are no abrasions, bulges, cuts, or exposed wires.

There is no space between the apron and the skid plate.

The seals are in good condition with no cracks, signs of rotting, or leaking air.

The king pin is properly mounted and secure, without cracks, bends and breaks.

Locking Jaws

Physically check that the locking jaws are fully locked around the king pin.

Mounting Bolts

No mounting bolts are missing.

The platform is properly mounted and secure, without cracks, bends and breaks.

Release Arm

The release arm is in the fully locked position.

The skid plate is properly lubed.

Sliding Fifth Wheel Locking Pin

The pin is in the fully locked position.

Trailer- What to Check For :

The airbag has no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leaks, not missing any mounting bolts.

The brake chamber is properly mounted and does not leak air.

The brake hose is secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges, cuts, or leaks.

No oil or debris on the brake lining and at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.

No missing cross members.

Header Board

The header board does not have any holes or missing rivets.

Landing Gear

The landing gear is fully raised and the cradle handle secure.

No rust trails, powder residue, or cracks around the bolt holes.

The rims do not have any unauthorized welds.

Rear Door and Hinges

The rear door opens, closes, and latches properly. Door seals are not worn, torn, or dry rotten.

The shock absorber is secure at both ends with no leaks.

When the brakes are released and pulled by hand, the push rod does not move more than one inch.

Tandem Frame and Release

Release handle and locking pins are in the fully locked position.

Trailer Tire

There are no abrasions, bulges, or cuts to the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth is no less than 2/32 of an inch. The tire is properly filled to manufacturer’s specifications and checked with an air gauge.

Light Check

There are five locations where you must check your lights. These include:

• Front of the truck
• Both sides of the truck
• Rear of the truck
• Both sides of the trailer
• Rear of the trailer

The five functions are:

• Left turn signal
• Right turn signal
• Four way flashers
• High/low beams
• Brake lights

Inspection and Brake Tests-What to Check For: In-Cab

The last section is In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests. For the In-Cab Inspection you once again want to make sure all of the following components are properly mounted and secure. As well as the following:

Air Brake Test

There are three stages to an air brake test:

• Applied Pressure Test – When doing the Applied Pressure Test, you want to build the air pressure to governor cut out. Put the truck in the lowest gear, turn the engine off and immediately turn it back on. Push in the tractor and trailer valves which then release the parking brakes. Push and hold the brake pedal, allowing the gauges to stabilize. When the gauges have stabilized, announce the Primary and Secondary PSI. Listen for air leaks while doing this.
• Warning Light and Buzzer – Pump down on the brake pedal until the warning light and buzzer comes on. This is typically at or before 60 PSI.
• Tractor/Trailer Protection Valve Pop Out – Pump down on the brake pedal until the tractor and trailer protection valves pop out, this will be between 20 and 40 PSI.

Air Pressure Gauges

The air pressure gauges build to governor cut out.

Emergency Equipment

Truck has a fire extinguisher, three red reflective triangles, and spare electrical fuses.

Heater and Defroster

Demonstrate both the heater and defroster are working properly.

Horns (Air Horn and City Horn)

Blow both horns to make sure they are working.

Lighting Indicators

Check the left turn, right turn, four way flashers and high beams; also point these out on the dashboard.

With the transmission in neutral, fully depress the clutch. Turn the key on, check the ABS light, announce when it comes on and off, and start the engine.

The seat belt is not ripped or frayed and adjusts and latches properly.

Oil Pressure Gauge

The engine oil pressure gauge should rise to normal operating range.

Parking Brake

• Trailer Parking Brakes – Set the trailer brake, release the tractor brake, and tug lightly on the trailer.
• Tractor Parking Brakes – Set the tractor brake, release the trailer brake, and tug lightly on the trailer.

Service Brake Check

Release both the tractor and trailer brakes. Drive at idle speed. Apply the service brake to make sure you come to a complete stop and that it doesn’t pull to the left or right when applying the brakes.

The voltmeter is charging between 13 and 14 volts.

Water Temperature Gauge

The water temperature gauge rises to normal operating range.

Windshield and Mirrors

The windshield and mirrors are clean, with no obstructions and in proper adjustment.

Windshield Wipers and Washers

Demonstrate the wipers and washers are working properly by spraying the windshield.

This is a really nice complete list, very useful.

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The Pre-Trip Inspection: A Practical Guide For the Truck Driver

Updated February 24th, 2022

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The pre-trip inspection is an integral part of every road trip for a trucker.

It’s probably the most disliked and most often overlooked part of the job of the professional truck driver in the trucking industry.

This inspection is meant to be a thorough check of the truck, trailer and load.

The check is to ensure that everything is in correct working order, prior to the truck and driver, departing on a trip.

Any damage or issues found during the pre-trip inspection which needs attention, must be addressed before departure.

CDL Test Pre-Trip Inspection

 If you just came through the process of getting your CDL, you can breathe a sigh of relief.

You don’t have to check all 500 or so items that you had to memorize for the test every single day.

Out on the road, a thorough pre trip shouldn’t take more than 10 to 15 minutes.

DVIRs – Daily Vehicle Inspection Report

According to federal law ( FMCSR Section 396.11 ), every day, a driver must submit a Daily Vehicle Inspection Report (DVIR) for each power unit he operates. Multiple trailers can go in one report.

DVIRs are either paper or electronic.

Not every trucking company (ahem) enforces this policy, so some truck drivers can go months or years without submitting a DVIR.

Minimum DOT Pre-Trip Inspection Requirements

• Service brakes including trailer brake connections
• Parking brake
• Steering mechanism
• Lighting devices and reflectors
• Windshield wipers
• Rear vision mirrors
• Coupling devices
• Wheels and rims
• Emergency equipment

Your trucking company’s DVIR might be more thorough.

This is a thorough Q&A on DVIRs which you can refer to.

Inspecting a New Truck

When you are assigned a new truck (either daily or just once), there are a few additional things you need to check for on the pre-trip inspection.

Truck Compliance

• Cab card and book – This is a book containing the registration, inspection, permits, cab cards, IFTA paperwork, and any other important papers for the truck. Make sure it is in the truck and all the paperwork is up to date.
• Inspection sticker – This is outside the truck. Find it and make sure the truck is not overdue.
• IFTA stickers – These are the fuel tax compliance stickers. They are on both sides of the truck. Make sure the current year is displayed.
• Elog device – Most trucks are required to have a working elog device.
• Required permits – These are in the cab card book. The most common permits are Heavy Motor Vehicle Trip Permit (Oregon) and the Weight Distance Tax Permit (New Mexico).
• New York HUT sticker – This is usually on the front of your truck. It’s a type of permit.
• License plate – Make sure the license plates on the front and back of the truck match.
• FMCSA Safety Regulations and Hazardous Materials book – These will be given to you by your company. They must stay in your truck within arms reach from the driver’s seat.
• Paper logbook – If your e-log stops working, you must log your hours in a paper logbook, which must be kept in your truck.
• Medical card – You must keep your current medical card in your truck. Always have your CDL on you as well.
• Orange triangles – You must have 3 triangles for when you break down.
• Fire extinguisher – Must be charged and secured to the truck. No rolling around on the floor.
• Extra fuses – If your truck doesn’t use circuit breakers, you must have spare fuses.
• Load bars and/or straps
• Extra oil, coolant, and windshield washer fluid
• Line antifreeze and diesel anti-gel
• Chains and bungees
• Gladhand seals
• Hammer, wrench, wire cutters, cable cutters, knife with glass-breaker

The Class A Pre-Trip Inspection Process

Unless I have to bobtail to pick up my trailer, I inspect my truck and trailer together.

The best way to memorize a thorough pre trip is to do it the same way each time.

Your process will look different from mine, but as long as you are consistent, you will be less likely to miss anything.

I do the inspection first thing each morning as well as every time I swap trailers.

Paperwork and Trailer

• Check the paperwork. It should be the first thing checked when you get to your truck.
• Match the trailer number to your paperwork. If your trailer has a seal, make sure it matches too.
• Unsealed trailer. If your trailer does not have a seal, open it and confirm the product matches the bills. If you are picking up an empty trailer, open it and make sure it’s actually empty.
• Confirm your destination. Ensure the destination is the same as on your trip sheet or load assignment. If there is a discrepancy, call your dispatcher.

I personally like to start with checking under the hood of the rig. Not everyone does, but I do.

Under the Hood of the Truck

I walk around the front of the truck, making sure all the lights work. Then I open the hood.

• Fluid levels – Check all fluids: coolant, oil, power steering fluid, and windshield washer fluid. Make sure caps are tight for the rad, oil filler, power steering fluid and the dip-stick is seated properly.
• Alternator, water pump, power steering pump –Make sure these are in good working order, and the belts are not worn or have too much slack.
• Observe at the engine block.  Check for leaks, fluid running down the side of the engine. Check for wear, cracking or fraying. Inspect fan belts for proper tension and signs of wear.
• Hoses – Check all hoses for leaks, cracks, and tears.
• Wiring – Check wiring for wear.
• Steering linkage – Check linkage for worn or missing parts.
• Tires – Tires should be properly inflated and have decent tread. If there are flat spots on the tire, it needs to be replaced.
• Hub seal – Make sure it’s not leaking and wiped with oil if transparent.
• Brakes – Brake chambers should not be out of round and should be free of grease. Shoes should not be worn down too much.
• Slack adjusters – Pull slack adjuster. If it travels more than an inch, it needs to be adjusted.
• Suspension – Shocks should be in good condition, and not covered in grease or oil.

Back of the Truck

Next, I check the back of my truck because it’s easier to check this before hooking to a trailer.

• Tires – Tires should be properly inflated and have decent tread. If the tires have flat spots, the tire needs to be replaced.
• Suspension – Shocks and airbags should be in good condition, and not covered in grease or oil.
• Drive shaft – Driveshaft should be undamaged and free of grease. Make sure there is no debris in the u-joints.
• Frame – The frame should not have any welds and not cracked or significantly rusted.
• Fifth wheel – The fifth wheel should be properly greased and not broken.
• Fuel tanks – Fuel tanks should not be leaking.
• Stairs and catwalk – Stairs and catwalk should be free of debris and not broken.

Tires should be checked with a tire gauge.

Tip . This is especially if you are slip seating. Tire thumpers aren’t very accurate. If you use a tire thumper, still check with a tire gauge from time to time.

Drives and tandems should be inflated to 100-110 psi and have a minimum tread or 2/32in. Steer tires should be inflated to 110-120 psi and have a minimum tread of 4/32in.

Tires under 50 psi should be replaced, as they can’t retain enough air pressure.

Flat spots can occur from dragging tandems in the winter or when trying to slide the tandems. Tires with flat spots should be replaced.

Check tires for damage, nails, and punctures.

Next, I jump in my cab and start my truck.

• Gauges – Make sure air, oil, and water temperature gauges rise to normal levels.
• Mirrors – Adjust mirrors before moving your truck.
• Windshield wipers – Make sure they work and sit flat against the windshield.
• Horn – Make sure the city and air horns both work.
• Heat and A/C – Check to see if heat and/or air conditioning is working.
• Seat belt – Seat belt should not be frayed and should move freely.

Coupling and Air Lines

This is what could happen if you don’t do the tug test.

The pre-trip inspection is a pretty important thing to do.

Learn your pre-trip procedure and do it when required.

This is why you should always do a tug test when picking up a trailer. The passenger side of the front of the trailer is resting on the frame of the truck and NOT hooked up to the 5th wheel.

The front left corner of the trailer is supported by retracted landing gear only. (Not good!)

The truck driver in this photo (hopefully) learned how critical a pre-trip is. Don’t end up in a pickle like this guy.

Next, I hook up to my trailer.

• Tug test – I back under my trailer until I hear a click, and then immediately do a tug test.

A tug test tests both your coupling and your brakes. If you pull away from your trailer, you aren’t hooked properly.

If you pull your trailer with you, your trailer brakes are out of adjustment. Be absolutely sure to write it up and have it corrected before departure.

• 4 Ways + Headlights. I also turn on my four-way flashers and headlights.
• Airlines and pigtails – Next, hook up airlines and pigtails (electrical connection). Inspect to make sure they aren’t leaking or ripped.
• Visual check of Fifth wheel – Look at the fifth wheel arm under the trailer to make sure it is coupled. The arm should be in.
• Landing gear – Raise the landing gear and check for damage.

Next, I check the bulkhead (front of the trailer).

• Wall – Make sure the wall is not damaged.
• Inspection sticker – Check the DOT inspection sticker to make sure it’s not out of date.
• Registration paperwork – Check the front trailer box to make sure the registration is good.
• Reefer unit – If you are pulling a reefer, select the pre trip function on the unit and run it. It should be completed by the time you are finished your pre trip inspection.

Next step for the pre-trip inspection is to check the side of the trailer and the tandems.

• Lights – Lights should be on and flashing.
• Suspension – springs or airbags should be in good condition, and not covered in oil or grease.
• Tandem pins – Tandem pins should be locked in position, and slider arm should be in its cradle.
• Cables – Make sure the tandem cables aren’t dragging on the ground.
• Underbelly – Make sure there are no damaged beams under the trailer. Check the entire length.
• Mudflaps – Mud flaps should not be torn and hanging.

Back of Trailer

Next, I check the back of the trailer.

• Doors – Doors and hinges should not be damaged.
• Door latches – Doors should be closed and secured.
• Seal – Seal should be intact and match paperwork.
• DOT bumper – DOT bumper should not be damaged
• License plate – Check for the license plate. They tend to wear out and fall off.

Passenger Side

Next, I check the passenger side.

• Brakes – Brake chambers should not be out of round and should be free of grease.
• Suspension – Springs or airbags should be in good condition, and not covered in grease or oil.
• Mudflaps – Mud flaps should not be torn.

Ready to Roll

Finally, I jump in my truck and double check my paperwork and destination.

I release my air brakes, roll forward, and push the service brake.

If everything is good, I’m ready to roll.

Post-Trip Inspection

When I’m done for the day, and every time I swap trailers, I do a post-trip inspection. If I am swapping trailers, I do a pre-trip on the new trailer as well.

A post-trip includes:

• lowering the landing gear
• removing the airlines
• uncoupling, and walking around the trailer checking tires, lights, seal, and mudflaps

Then I finish my paperwork and go home.

Slip Seating

If you slip seat (meaning you are in a different truck each shift), your pre- trip check should be more thorough than if you are permanently assigned a truck.

This also applies to the first inspection after being assigned a truck.

Please be courteous and write up any problems or issues found, so the next driver of the vehicle doesn’t have to deal with it.

Side Note: Clean out your truck and throw away any trash. Common courtesy goes a long way in trucking, between drivers.

Pre-Trip Inspection F.A.Q.

Most breakdowns can be avoided with proper preventative measures, such as daily inspections.

Thorough inspections should be done at the start of each shift. Inspections of trailers should be done every time you swap trailers.

Each driver should do a thorough pre-trip every time they swap drivers.

It should take about 10-15 minutes to perform a pre trip inspection.

The DOT. Make sure you stay in compliance so you don’t end up with hefty fines and an out of service.

The best way to memorize your pre trip inspection routine, is to do it the same way every time. That way you’re less likely to miss something. If you have questions, ask your safety team at your company.

Fluids in the engine, engine hoses and wires, brakes and suspension, mudflaps, trailer registration and inspection paperwork, and license plates.

A Few Trip Planning Tips

• Buy and learn to read a trucker’s atlas. It’s useful to plan routes and avoid restricted roads. I find this road atlas a necessity as a professional truck driver.
• Buy a decent trucking GPS , but don’t rely on it 100%. Use common sense.
• Don’t use the GPS in your elog device. It will put you in a lake.

Please note that minimum requirements for the inspection are established by the FMCSA.

But these may vary by state, trucking company, truck type, and trailer type.

It is your duty as a professional truck driver to perform a thorough pre-trip inspection before each trip and before you drive.

You’ll save yourself from headaches, fines and unnecessary accidents.

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Class A Pre-Trip Inspection Study App

The CDL Pre-Trip Inspection can be the most daunting portion of the driving test. But, it's easy if you study.

Use this FREE study guide to prepare for your CDL Skills test.

Would you like a video version of the Pre-Trip Inspection? Scroll to the bottom of this page for a free video.

Courtesy of CDL College .

Metal Parts: cannot be broken or cracked and must be securely mounted. Rubber Parts: no abrasions, bulges, or cuts. Parts that hold a Fluid or Air: cannot be leaking. Example: the engine air compressor (a metal part) is securely mounted, not cracked, gear-driven, and has no audible leaks.

• The Pre-Trip Inspection is a verbal test. • Say at least 2 things about every item you inspect. • Point to, or touch, every item that you inspect. • Mention all damaged items to the tester.

01: Engine Compartment + 1 Axle

Stand in front of the truck.

(3 L’s) Lights, Leans, Leaks

Verify that the LIGHTS on the front of the truck are the proper color, securely mounted, not cracked or broken, and clean.

Next, make sure the truck isn’t LEANing to one side, which could indicate a suspension problem or low tire pressure.

Ensure there are no LEAKS underneath the engine compartment.

Check the front of truck for damage. When you find damage on the vehicle, tell the tester that you’ll note it on your Vehicle Inspection Report.

3 Components

Alternator: securely mounted, not cracked; wires are properly fastened and not frayed. Belt or gear driven: If belt-driven, belt has no more than 1/2" to 3/4" of play, and no cuts or splits.

Water Pump: (see box on right) properly mounted and not broken; no visible leaks; belt or gear driven: belt has no more than 1/2" to 3/4" inch of play and no splits or cuts.

Air Compressor: securely mounted to engine, not broken or cracked; no audible leaks; belt or gear driven: belt has no more than 1/2" to 3/4" inch of play and no splits or cuts.

Coolant: verify proper level through sight glass or dipstick; reservoir is properly mounted not cracked; check the hoses for splits or cuts and ensure they are securely mounted at both ends.

Oil: indicate where the dipstick is located and that the oil is at the proper level.

Power Steering: verify proper level through sight glass or dipstick; reservoir is securely mounted and not cracked; check the hoses for splits or cuts and ensure they are securely mounted at both ends.

Belts and Hoses

After properly inspecting the power steering hose and the coolant hose , tell the tester that you would inspect all remaining hoses the same way. After properly inspecting the alternator belt , tell the tester that you will inspect all remaining belts the same way.

Steering Shaft: not bent or broken and securely mounted; no excessive play. Steering Gear Box: properly mounted to frame and not cracked or broken; no visible leaks; HOSE has no visible leaks and is properly mounted at both ends.

Pitman Arm: not cracked and securely mounted, all hardware is present. Castle nuts and cotter pins are present and tight. Drag Link: not broken and properly mounted at both ends. Rubber bushings: not split or cut and properly greased. Upper/Lower Control Arms and Tie Rod: not broken and securely mounted, all hardware present.

Spring Mounts: spring mounts and hardware are not cracked or broken and properly mounted to frame. Leaf Springs: not cracked or broken, not shifted or scissored; properly mounted to spring hangers. U-bolts: not cracked or broken and securely mounted.

Shock Absorber: not bent or broken and mounted securely; no visible leaks; rubber bushings have no dry-rot.

Brake Hose: hose to brake chamber not split or cut, no audible leaks, and securely mounted at both ends. Brake Chamber: not cracked or broken and securely mounted; no audible leaks. Slack Adjuster: no missing hardware and properly mounted; push rod has no more than 1" of play and is at a 90° angle to brake chamber. Brake Drum: securely mounted and not broken, no bluing from excessive heat. Brake Pads: securely mounted and not broken; minimum brake pad thickness is 1/4".

Wheel inside: not broken and securely mounted; no welding repairs. Tire: sidewalls have no cuts or bulges; steer tire tread depth is 4/32" min.; tread is evenly worn; check inflation w/ air gauge (do not kick tires) ; no re-treads on steers. Wheel outside: securely mounted and not cracked, no illegal welds. Valve Stem: properly secured and not broken; no audible leaks, has a metal cap. Lug Nuts: not cracked or broken; all lug nuts are present and tight. Hub Seal: not cracked, broken, or loose; no visible leaks. End this portion of the inspection at the Hub Seal.

02: Side and Back of Truck + 1 Axle

Side and back of truck.

Mirror bracket: properly attached to truck and not broken, all hardware in place. Door: securely mounted and opens and closes; hinges not broken and securely mounted; rubber seal not split or cut and is properly mounted. Steps: hold my weight, not loose, no debris. Fuel tank: not leaking and no loose hardware; cap is tight, seal intact and chain present. Exhaust: not loose, all hardware present, no evidence of leaks (exterior soot). Cat Walk and Steps: properly mounted and not excessively dirty. Frame: not twisted or broken and no illegal welds. Drive Shaft: not cracked or broken, U-joints not broken and have no foreign objects. Rear truck lights: proper color, all lights are present, not cracked or dirty, no moisture inside the lens. Mud Flap: bracket is securely mounted and not cracked, all hardware in place; mud flap not split or cut. DOT tape is securely mounted, not dirty, covers 100% of rear. Space: enough space between rear of truck and landing gear for turns.

Note: axle suspension components can be different from truck to truck. You should determine which suspension components are present and inspect those components. Axles consist of suspension, brakes, wheels, and tires. Spring mounts: spring mounts and hardware are not cracked or broken and properly mounted to frame. Leaf Springs: not cracked or broken, not shifted or scissored; properly mounted to spring hangers. U-bolts: not cracked or broken and securely mounted. Shock Absorber: not bent or broken and mounted securely; no visible leaks; rubber bushings have no dry-rot. Air Bags: not split or cut, no audible leaks; mounts are properly secured and not cracked. Brake Hose: hose to brake chamber not split or cut, no audible leaks, securely mounted at both ends. Brake Chamber: not cracked or broken and securely mounted; no audible leaks. Slack Adjuster: no missing hardware and properly mounted; push rod has no more than 1" of play and is at a 90° angle to brake chamber. Brake Drum: securely mounted and not broken, no bluing from excessive heat. Brake Pads: securely mounted and not broken; minimum brake pad thickness is 1/4". Wheel inside: not broken and securely mounted; no welding repairs. Tires: sidewalls have no cuts or bulges; tread depth on drive tires is 2/32" min.; evenly worn; check inflation w/ air gauge (do not kick tires) ; can be re-treads; Dual Tires: no foreign objects between tires, no gap between wheels. Wheel Outside: not cracked, securely mounted, no welding repairs. Valve Stem: properly secured and not broken; no audible leaks, has a metal cap. Lug Nuts: not cracked or broken; all lug nuts are present and tight. Hub Seal: not cracked, broken, or loose; no visible leaks. End this inspection at the Hub Seal.

03: Connections

Locate the air lines and the electrical line at the rear of the cab.

Air Lines should be securely mounted at BOTH ends. All hardware is present, nothing broken. Lines have no cuts or splits and no audible leaks. Glad hands are locked in place, not broken, and seals are not split or cut.

Electrical line is securely mounted at BOTH ends. All hardware is present and tight. Lines have no cuts or splits. Safety latches are in place. Lines are not tangled or dragging on catwalk.

Fifth Wheel Assembly: Apron: securely mounted, not cracked or broken. No gap between apron and skid plate. Skid Plate: properly greased, securely mounted, not cracked. Pivot pin is securely mounted, not cracked or broken. Platform: is securely mounted to frame and not cracked or broken. Release Handle: securely mounted, not broken and in locked position. Sliding Fifth Wheel? The actuator is not cracked or broken; air line is securely mounted, no audible leaks, no cuts or splits).

Kingpin and Locking Jaws: securely mounted and not worn. Locking jaws are secure around kingpin, both are properly greased.

04: Trailer + 1 Axle

Start at the front of the trailer, then inspect the side and the back. Finish with a trailer axle. Front of Trailer: clearance lights are the proper color, not loose, cracked, or dirty, and clean. Front of trailer has no holes, all rivets present. Side of Trailer: no holes in side of trailer, all rivets in place. DOT tape: properly secured, not dirty, covers at least 50% of the side. Frame: not twisted or broken, all hardware present and tight. Cross members: securely mounted, not loose or broken, none missing. Floor: securely mounted and no holes. Landing gear: is raised, not broken, securely mounted; Handle not broken, securely mounted, and operational. Clearance light: proper color, not loose, cracked or dirty; rubber gasket not split or cut. Air lines: are securely mounted under trailer, no audible leaks, not dragging on the ground. Tandem slide: not bent, properly mounted, pins locked in place. Release arm: securely mounted, not broken, and in locked position. Mud flap: securely mounted, no cuts, and proper distance from tire and ground. ABS light: not cracked or dirty, proper color, no moisture inside

Back of Trailer: clearance lights are the proper color, not cracked or dirty, and clean. Hinges: are securely mounted, bot cracked or broken. Doors: not broken, no holes; door seal intact, no cuts, securely mounted. Door handles and rods: are not bent, are securely mounted, and operational. Lights: proper color, securely mounted, not loose, cracked or dirty. DOT tape: is securely mounted, clean, and covers 100% of rear. Bumper: is properly secured, not cracked or broken.

Trailer Axle

Note: axle suspension components can be different from truck to truck. You should determine which suspension components are present and inspect those components. Axles consist of suspension, brakes, wheels, and tires.

Trailing Arm Mount: securely mounted to frame, not broken or cracked. Spring mounts: spring mounts and hardware are not cracked or broken and properly mounted to frame. Leaf Springs: not cracked or broken, not shifted or scissored; properly mounted to spring hangers. U-bolts: not cracked or broken and securely mounted. Shock Absorber: not bent or broken and mounted securely; no visible leaks; rubber bushings have no dry-rot. Air Bags: not split or cut, no audible leaks; mounts are properly securedand not cracked. Brake Hose: hose to brake chamber not split or cut, no audible leaks, securely mounted at both ends. Brake Chamber: not cracked or broken and securely mounted; no audible leaks. Slack Adjuster: no missing hardware and properly mounted; push rod has no more than 1" of play and is at a 90° angle to brake chamber. Brake Drum: securely mounted and not broken, no bluing from excessive heat. Brake Pads: securely mounted and not broken; minimum brake pad thickness is 1/4". Wheel inside: not broken and securely mounted; no welding repairs. Tires: sidewalls have no cuts or bulges; tread depth on drive tires is 2/32" min.; evenly worn; check inflation w/ air gauge (do not kick tires) ; can be re-treads; Dual Tires: no foreign objects between tires, no gap between wheels. Wheel Outside: not cracked, securely mounted, no welding repairs. Valve Stem: properly secured and not broken; no audible leaks, has a metal cap. Lug Nuts: not cracked or broken; all lug nuts are present and tight. Hub Seal: not cracked, broken, or loose; no visible leaks. End this inspection at the Hub Seal.

05: External Light Check

Follow the flow to avoid missing any lights: 4 sides for the truck, 4 sides for the trailer.

Group similar lights together (headlights and high beams; turn signals and 4-way flashers; brake lights and tail lights).

TRUCK LIGHTS

Front: clearance lights, headlights, high beams, left turn, right turn, 4-way flashers

Left side: clearance light, left turn, 4-way flasher

Rear: tail lights, brake lights, left turn, right turn, 4-way flashers

Right side: clearance light, right turn,4-way flasher

TRAILER LIGHTS

Front: clearance lights

Rear: clearance lights, tail lights, brake lights, left turn, right turn, 4-way flashers

Right side: clearance light, right turn, 4-way flasher

06: In Cab and Brake Test

Memorize this formula: 5, 5, Safe Start, 5, 5 5 safety items 5 in cab items Safe Start 5 gauges 5 -step brake check

5 Safety Items

5 in cab items.

Follow the blue spiral shape below to remember the 5 in cab items. Mirrors: glass not dirty or cracked, no illegal stickers, mirrors properly adjusted. Windshield: securely mounted, not dirty or cracked, no illegal stickers. Windshield wipers: arms properly mounted and not broken; blades have no splits or cuts, wipers and wiper fluid are operational. Heater/defroster: demonstrate both are operational by setting fan to max, and the mix valve to heat/defrost. Dashboard light indicators: turn the lights on and check the indicators for the high beams, right and left turn signals, and 4-way flashers.

Tell the examiner these 3 steps before you perform them: parking brake is set, transmission in neutral, and the clutch is depressed. Start the engine and look for the ABS light on the dash to come on and then go off. With the vehicle started, check the gauges.

Oil gauge: operational, rising to proper operating range, no warning light. Temperature gauge: operational, rising to proper operating range, no warning light. Voltmeter: operational, at the proper operating range, 12-14 volts. Air gauges (2): building air to proper operating range, no warning lights.

5-step Brake Test

Explain each step before performing it. With the first 2 steps, you’re either trying to move the vehicle, or you are moving the vehicle. The engine must be ON for the first 2 steps. 1) Parking Brake: release trailer brake (push RED valve IN); slowly release the clutch, tugging lightly against the parking brake. Push clutch in. (Leave everything in the truck as it is). 2) Service Brake: (brake pedal) release parking brake (BOTH valves should be IN), pull forward to 5 mph, depress clutch and brake while lightly gripping the steering wheel; check if vehicle pulls to the left or right. (Leave everything in the truck as it is).

**Turn the engine OFF, and turn the key ON for the next 2 steps. You’ll need power for your gauges.**

Air Compressor check: perform a Safe Start. Idle up the engine (1200RPM) until the secondary air tank reads 85psi. At 85psi begin counting. The air pressure must rise from 85 to 100psi in 45 seconds or less. Next, fast idle the truck up to 120-140psi, at which point the governor cut-out should occur. Psshhh!

Class A CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Video

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Common Tools

• Administrative Procedures Manual (APM)
• Class Schedule
• OIT Tech Support
• Academic Dates & Deadlines
• U of I Retirees Association
• Faculty Senate
• Staff Council

Safety Programs

Environmental health and safety.

Mailing Address: 875 Perimeter Dr MS 2030  Moscow, ID 83844-2030

Phone: 208-885-6524

Fax: 208-885-5969

Email: [email protected]

Driver Safety

There are many things we can do to have a safe driving experience, whether driving a personal vehicle or driving a University of Idaho vehicle for work. EHS provides training, checklists to document required  monthly and annual inspections of vehicles and recommendations for pre-trip inspections .

Information on insurance and vehicle accident reporting is available through Risk Management at 208-885-7177 or [email protected] .

What You Need to Do

Be trained : before driving university owned, rented or leased vehicles, employees, students and volunteers (drivers) are required to complete the defensive driving course .  This course reviews policies found in the APM 05.08 and forms that must be completed prior to using a university vehicle.

Inspect the vehicle : drivers need to conduct a pre-trip inspection before getting behind the wheel and report issues to the proper authority to ensure the vehicle is safe to drive. Additional monthly  and annual inspections  must be conducted by appropriate personnel.

Supervisors are responsible : supervisors must ensure drivers complete the defensive driving course every three years, submit a satisfactory driver’s record check  (background check) every three years and have a signed Vehicle Use Agreement on file before driving.

Related Training

• Defensive Driving Course
• Winter Driving Safety

For more information

Beau Babcock Occupational Safety Specialist 208-885-6297 [email protected]

Vacant Occupational Safety Technician 208-885-6524 [email protected]

• Pre-Trip Inspection Checklist docx
• Monthly Vehicle Inspection Checklist doc
• Annual Vehicle Inspection Checklist pdf
• APM 05.08: Vehicle Coverage and Use
• Vehicle Use Agreement pdf
• Driver Record Request
• Idaho Driver's Manual — English
• Idaho Drivers Manual — Spanish
• Idaho Drivers Manual — Audio