alternator cost for 2002 gmc safari

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2002 GMC Safari

2002 GMC Safari - Alternator

• Powermaster Performance
• Ultima Select

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• Remanufactured

Amperage (A)

Pulley type.

• Conventional

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Ultima Select 105 Amp Alternator - New

Ultima 105 amp alternator - remanufactured, bestest 105 amp alternator - remanufactured, what is an alternator.

The alternator recharges the battery to restore power that is depleted during starting and keeps the electrical accessories on your car powered while it is running. The alternator is driven by the engine belt and may be controlled by the engine computer or voltage regulator to prevent overcharging. Over time, the internal windings and brushes of the alternator can wear out or become contaminated with grease or oil, and this can keep the alternator from producing adequate voltage for recharging or operation. When the alternator loses capacity or fails, the electrical systems of your vehicle will only stay on until the battery's reserve charge has been depleted. Your car might die, but you might be able to restart it with a jump start or by recharging the battery to park somewhere safe. If you notice that your headlights dim when using your power windows, or if your battery just won't stay fully charged, it may be time to replace your alternator or other charging system parts. If you're not sure whether your alternator is the source of the problem, check the tension of your belts to make sure the alternator is spinning while the engine runs, and stop by your local O'Reilly Auto Parts where we can test alternators on or off of your vehicle. If you need a new alternator or other charging system parts, you can shop our selection of replacement alternators, car batteries, and starters to find the parts you need to make your repair.

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GMC Safari Alternator Replacement Costs

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How Much Does An Alternator Repair Cost?

An alternator repair costs around $375 – $1,100. 

These numbers will vary based on the auto parts needing repair or replacement, car model, and labor cost. It takes about 2 hours for an alternator replacement — about as long as a driveline repair and a little quicker than a clutch repair.

The estimated price for parts (including a replacement belt) can range around $290 – $600. And depending on where you get the auto service, labor can cost between $85 to $800.

You could also ask your mechanic for a remanufactured or rebuilt car alternator if a new one is too costly. Make sure your purchases have a warranty to cover any potential problems.

How Urgent Is An Alternator Repair?

If the alternator fails, the battery doesn’t charge, and the car won’t function as it should. Problems with stalling and starting may leave you running late. Specific safety components like the headlights might not work when you need them. 

Also, a faulty alternator can damage certain electrical systems by overcharging or undercharging them. You could end up with additional repairs if you leave the bad alternator unresolved. 

That’s why you should get quality electrical systems inspections from a reputable auto repair service when you notice bad alternator symptoms. It can even be a good idea to check an old alternator regularly, like when getting an oil change or your tires serviced for tire rotation.

Symptoms Of A Failing Alternator

Here are signs that your car may need an alternator repair:

• Dead battery: A defective alternator won’t charge the battery while the engine is running.
• Hard starting or stalling engine: An underpowered battery (because the alternator isn’t charging) will have trouble starting the car.
• Dim or too-bright lights: A damaged alternator may deliver either too little or too much power to the headlights. 
• Electrical system concerns: Electrical accessories like your radio, power windows, and air-conditioning might begin to falter with a bad alternator.
• Whining or squealing noises: A misaligned alternator pulley or worn-out pulley bearings can generate odd noises.
• A burning odor: Burnt smells can point to an alternator pulley or drive belt problems.
•   Lit dashboard warning lights: A lit battery light , check engine ligh t, or charging system light can all indicate alternator issues.

4 Alternator Repair FAQs

Here are answers to some common questions on alternator repairs:

1. Can I Drive With Alternator Problems?

Yes, but only for a short while before the battery fails, then you’ll need an alternator repair. 

2. How Often Do I Need An Alternator Repair?

An alternator can generally last for about 150,000 miles or 7-8 years before needing replacement. 

3. How Do I Load Test An Alternator?

To load test your alternator, you need a voltmeter or multimeter. 

Here are the steps to take:

• Battery assessment: With the engine turned off, connect the multimeter leads to the battery terminals — red to the positive terminal, black to the negative terminal. A good, fully charged battery should measure between 12.6 -13.2 volts. 
• Alternator assessment: Turn on the engine. With the engine running at around 1000 RPM, the multimeter voltage should stay within 12-14 volts.
• Load engine: Start turning on accessories (like the headlights, radio, and windshield wipers.) The voltage shouldn’t drop under 12V or go above 14V.

If any readings are out of range while the engine is running, your alternator could be problematic, and you may need a car repair. 

4. How Do I Replace An Alternator?

Here’s how a professional mechanic would replace a failed alternator:

• Disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Disconnect the cable connections from the back of the alternator. 
• Remove the drive belt from the pulley by loosening the belt tensioner.
• Once the belt is off, unfasten the mounting bolts connecting the alternator to the bracket.
• Remove the old alternator from the bracket.
• Compare the new alternator with the old alternator and check whether everything matches, including the mounting bolt holes.
• Install the new alternator and tighten the mounting bolts with a ratchet.
• Slip the drive belt back in position by using the tensioner arm and reinstall all cable connections.
• Review the installation and test the alternator output using a multimeter. 

Tips: Ensure the battery is fully charged before installation. Using the new alternator to charge a low volt battery can damage the alternator.

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Alternator for 2002 gmc safari.

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• after 12k miles of use from initial purchase

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New Alternator Compatible With 2001 2002 2003 2004 Chevy Astro & GMC Safari V6 4.3 10480326, 19244728, 321-1811, 334-2491, 334-2491A, ADR0215, 40012139, 40012139R

Purchase options and add-ons.

• Replacement Part Numbers: 10464451, 10464455, 10464481, 10480326, 10480326M, 10480388, 10480476, 15755616, 15755616W, 15768829, 19244727, 19244728, 19244731, 208247, 2-08247, 208291, 2-08291, 3211798, 321-1798, 3211811, 321-1811, 3211815, 321-1815, 3211850, 321-1850, 3212104, 321-2104, 3342491, 334-2491, 3342491A, 334-2491A, 3342516, 334-2516, 3342528, 334-2528, 40012139, 400-12139, 40012139R, 400-12139R, 8247, 8247N, 8273, 8291, ADR0215, 10464438
• Product Type: Alternator; Condition: New; Unit Series: AD230; Voltage: 12V; Amperage: 105A; Rotation: CW; Regulator/Fan: IR/IF; Plug Code: 314; Pulley Class: S6; Pulley OD: 57mm; Mounting Hardware Included: No; Number of Mounting Holes: 2; Unit Finish: Same as OE; Number of Pieces: 1; Country of Origin: CN
• Compatible With Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Base, LS 4.8L 1999-02; Silverado 1500 Base, LS, LT 5.3L 1999-04 - See the Description for more Applications
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• See Product Description for Additional Specifications

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Product Description

SPECIFICATIONS: 105 Amp/12 Volt, CW, 6-Groove Pulley, 04:00 Plug Clock DESIGN: IR/IF VOLTAGE: 12 AMPERAGE: 105 ROTATION: CW PULLEY CLASS: S6 FEATURE 2: premium rectifier & regulator FEATURE 3: Premium, hi-temperature bearings REPLACEMENT FOR or COMPATIBLE WITH GMC: Yukon XL 2500 V8 8.1L 03-05 Yukon XL 2500 V8 6.0L 00-04 Yukon XL 1500 V8 6.0L 01-04 Yukon XL 1500 V8 5.3L 00-04 Yukon V8 5.3L 00-04 Yukon V8 4.8L 00-04 Sierra 3500 V8 8.1L 01-05 Sierra 3500 V8 6.6L 01-05 Sierra 3500 V8 6.0L 01-05 Sierra 2500 HD V8 8.1L 01-05 Sierra 2500 HD V8 6.6L 01-05 Sierra 2500 HD V8 6.0L 01-05 Sierra 2500 V8 6.0L 99-04 Sierra 2500 V8 5.3L 99-00 Sierra 1500 HD V8 6.0L 01-03 Sierra 1500 V8 6.0L 02-04 Sierra 1500 V8 5.3L 99-04 Sierra 1500 V8 4.8L 99-04 Sierra 1500 V6 4.3L 99-04 Savana 3500 V8 8.1L 01-02 Savana 3500 V8 6.5L 01-02 Savana 3500 V8 6.0L 03-04 Savana 3500 V8 5.7L 01-02 Savana 3500 V8 4.8L 04-04 Savana 2500 V8 6.5L 01-02 Savana 2500 V8 6.0L 03-04 Savana 2500 V8 5.7L 01-02 Savana 2500 V8 5.3L 03-04 Savana 2500 V8 5.0L 01-02 Savana 2500 V8 4.8L 03-04 Savana 2500 V6 4.3L 01-04 Savana 1500 V8 5.7L 01-02 Savana 1500 V8 5.3L 03-04 Savana 1500 V8 5.0L 01-02 Savana 1500 V6 4.3L 01-04 Safari V6 4.3L 01-04 C3500HD V8 8.1L 01-02 REPLACEMENT FOR or COMPATIBLE WITH CHEVROLET: Tahoe V8 5.3L 00-04 Tahoe V8 4.8L 00-04 Suburban 2500 V8 8.1L 03-05 Suburban 2500 V8 6.0L 00-04 Suburban 1500 V8 5.3L 00-04 Silverado 3500 V8 8.1L 01-05 Silverado 3500 V8 6.6L 01-05 Silverado 3500 V8 6.0L 01-05 Silverado 2500 HD V8 8.1L 01-05 Silverado 2500 HD V8 6.6L 01-05 Silverado 2500 HD V8 6.0L 01-05 Silverado 2500 V8 6.0L 99-04 Silverado 2500 V8 5.3L 99-00 Silverado 1500 HD V8 6.0L 01-03 Silverado 1500 V8 6.0L 03-04

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• Astro/Safari Vans

Alternator Removal/Replacement How-To (2003 Astro)

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excellent informative post mate,better than the book!!  

spot on- I was trying to do it at night and didn't remove the fan shroud- talk about some angled torque on a flex head socket! When it gets light out I will do as you show and then take a break. Thanks for the details and pictures.  

Great stuff. I am just considering buying an Astro that drains its battery every couple of days (suspect alternator) so this is just what I need! Thanks.  

Does anybody know if a 1999 safari has two or three alternator bolts? I can only find two, but the car books and "alldata" say there are three. I don't want to pry on the alternator if there are three!! Thanks, raindropp  

i just did my alt on my 99 two weeks ago. There are only two bolts. The alt is kind of smushed in place. This post is identical to your 99. Once the bolts are loose pry on the side closest to the drivers side with a flat blade screw driver and it will slowly pop up. To put the new one in I had to tap on mine with a rubber mallet and a socket extension to squeeze it back into the mount. I found that this job takes about 30 min to line it all up and make sure you don't beat the heck out of it putting it in just tap it in. If you can move the front little spring clip things back as posted it would make life easier I just didn't see a way to move them when I did my alt. Good luck.  

I just replaced the Alternator on my 1994 Safari 4.3 L High Output engine option. There is a third mounting bolt, found at the rear left of the alternator, approx 1/2 way down. It is a 10 mm bolt. Access to the bolt is limited at the rear, I ended up removing the engine cover so a friend could help from that side to get the bolt re-aligned and back in. Removing the engine cover also gave me more confidence about what I was doing at the rear of the alternator. I ended up moving the upper oil dipstick channel out of the way, to make it easier to use a 10 mm short socket and ratchet instead of a wrench to get the bolt back on. (Only move the upper oil dipstick channel if you have removed the engine cover, since the channel comes apart in the middle, and you will need access to re-insert the top of the oil dispstick channel into the bottom) Another pointer, test the threads in your replacement alternator before trying to re-install. One of the threads on mine needed to get re-threaded for the bolt to actually screw into it. I noticed some posts suggesting one should remove the belt tensioner inorder to get the alternator out. Certainly for my model and year Van, this was absolutely not required. If your doing a 94 Safari, and need more confidence building info, email me, and I'll send you a detailed set of steps I followed, along with some supporting photos. [email protected]  

On my 97 the fan shroud is easy to remove and gives you a lot more room to work in there. Most of them are split (top/bottom) so you really only remove the top. There's two rubber pads that sit between the radiator edges and the shroud. Make sure you put those back when you put the shroud back on. I've removed it twice to replace the alternator and once to replace the tensioner. Piece of cake and the front of the engine magically appears once it's off.  

currently have my cousins 96 astrovan followed all these instructions but mine too has a back bolt and I'm wondering how to get the damn thing out I don't have a 10mm wrench!!! socket fits but can't move the damn thing!!!! please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :feedback:  

just make sure you don't pull too hard forward on the alternator once its loose to remove the power cable, I did this and shredded the sensor cable that attaches to the backside of the alternator added an extra day of trouble shooting for doing that in the middle of January, not fun  

Just replaced mine last weekend. Was not very hard at all, thanks to this post. only trouble was finessing the new alternator into place. Got a 160 amp unit that puts out 105 amps at idle from DB electric for around $180 shipped to me in 3 days.  

Looks like I may be following these instructions soon. Since I bought my Van the amp gauge has been reading at or a touch below 14 volts, today on the way home it dropped to below what would be 12 volts with lights, wipers, defrost, & radio going. I was only a mile from home when I noticed, so I shut the lights, wipers, and blower down. The volts returned to about 12-13 volts. Not good. Why do the Alternators have to be so pricey?  

kidhauler said: ... If you can move the front little spring clip things back as posted it would make life easier I just didn't see a way to move them when I did my alt. . Click to expand...

one good piece of advice is for anybody who can go to a junkyard is to possibly pick up an alt off a 03 or 04 full size truck, the ad244 style puts out about 100 amps at idle, and up to 170 at full tilt. only diffrence is you hve to change out to a tad biit longer belt, either a 96 or 96.8  

brilamb2 said: one good piece of advice is for anybody who can go to a junkyard is to possibly pick up an alt off a 03 or 04 full size truck, the ad244 style puts out about 100 amps at idle, and up to 170 at full tilt. only diffrence is you hve to change out to a tad biit longer belt, either a 96 or 96.8 Click to expand...

update........ the 96 in belt is the one we need. 96.8 is just barely too long for the ad244  

Gonna tackle this tonight on my 95 astro. Got the hook up from a friend at a parts store. 125 for a brand new 105amp Ultima. Lifetime warranty... we shall see how it holds ups. I was driving to work this morning and the volt meter in the dash started jumping ariound and then went down to 12ish and the batt light came on and I could hear the nator saying EFFF YOOUU!! :screaming: Welp, hope its just the nator... Hopefully it goes smooth....  

I'll have to keep this thread in mind as my alternator is whining... I'll likely run it til it dies, but yeah, getting close methinks.  

Thanks for the great post and pictures, my son and I replaced the alternator,serpentine belt and belt tension pulley on his 97 Astro last week, all went well, we appreciate your help, I went over your steps several times before starting the job, would have taken a lot longer without it. Thanks again. Don  

I see some slightly incorrect terminology here as well as in manufacturer's ads when it comes to alternator output. Alt's don't really "output 100 amps at idle". By themselves, they don't "output" amperage at any speed. Amperage is a function of the load. The world's largest alternator, at any speed, into a load that is "asking for" (drawing) ONE amp will output one amp, no more. Better termininology would be "Is capable of supplying 100A at idle", rather than "outputs 100A at idle". A bigger alternator (amperage rating) may be beefier built than the smaller alt. But unless you have added some kind of extra load to the electrical system, a bigger alt will output the same current (amps) as the smaller one. Alternators output 12 VOLTS (or 13.8 or 14.5 or whatever) constantly. They supply AMPS to whatever extent the load requires. E=IR Lump  

Great Explanation Lumpy Thanks, Jim  

I have noticed on some forms you fill out, it asks you to print your name. Sorry I forgot my printing press. (I usually just letter my name in, instead) How did we, speaking collectively, stray from using correct English. I sat in on an English class and the teacher used the word "can" instead of "may" in an instruction to the class for an answer. Everyone in the class could speak, the teacher was giving permission to the class to speak. I'm sure there are many more examples of incorrect wording, but it shouldn't come from the English teacher. Go figure... Keith  

94 Van Guy said: I have noticed on some forms you fill out, it asks you to print your name. Sorry I forgot my printing press. (I usually just letter my name in, instead) How did we, speaking collectively, stray from using correct English. I sat in on an English class and the teacher used the word "can" instead of "may" in an instruction to the class for an answer. Everyone in the class could speak, the teacher was giving permission to the class to speak. I'm sure there are many more examples of incorrect wording, but it shouldn't come from the English teacher. Go figure... Keith Click to expand...

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