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Bosnia Road Trip: Off the Beaten Path in the Beautiful Balkans

Followers of my blog know I’m a little cuckoo for Bosnia-Herzegovina . I love its thriving cities, its beautiful landscape, its vivid culture, and its kind people. Over the course of about a dozen trips, I’ve mostly visited Mostar , Sarajevo , and the countryside sights scattered near them. And one thing remains constant: The more I see of Bosnia, the more I fall in love with it.

So, on my latest guidebook research trip, I scheduled a couple of extra days to delve deeper — into parts of Bosnia that few Americans visit, or have even heard of. I immediately thought of my travel buddy, Ben, the only American I know who geeks out about arcane Yugoslav history as much as I do. I shot him an email saying, “Could I interest you in a road trip through Travnik, Jajce, and Banja Luka?” I knew I’d found my Yugo-soulmate when he responded: “Ooooh! Jajce!”

And so Ben and I met up one Friday afternoon in Sarajevo, and caught up as we fortified ourselves with grilled meats and uštipci (chunks of fried dough). The next morning, we hopped into our car, curled up mountain roads out of town (past the 1984 Winter Olympics stadium), and drove the entire length of the Bosnian freeway system in a matter of 45 minutes. The new road was slick and efficient, hinting at a promising future for this little country — which strives both to upgrade its infrastructure, and to be better connected to the rest of Europe.

Clearing the Sarajevo suburbs, we kept our eyes peeled through the town of Viskovo, watching for the symmetrically shaped hill called Visočica — the site of what some believe (with little evidence other than a neat shape) to be a pyramid built tens of thousands of years ago. There was no time to stop and investigate, but with a quick glance from the highway, Ben and I were satisfied that science would be able debunk the “Bosnian pyramids” without our firsthand accounts.

Approaching our first stop, Travnik, we pulled off the main road to spiral up an impossibly twisty, impossibly steep lane striped with teeth-jarring cobbles, to reach the hilltop fortress overlooking town. Overshooting the gate but finding no parking higher up, I found myself doing a white-knuckle, nine-point turn to make my way back down to a wide spot in the “road,” wedged between someone’s front stoop and their mailbox.

Hiking up to Travnik’s fortress, we were rewarded with sweeping views over the pastoral Bosnian countryside. The steep hills, fuzzy and green, were punctuated by a smattering of minarets. For all the things Bosnia is known for — and unfortunately, to most Americans, the list consists almost solely of its horrific 1990s warfare — it seldom gets full credit for being simply beautiful. Overlooking the scenic valley that hems in little Travnik, wishing I had more time to do a little hiking, it occurred to me that rugged little Bosnia is like Switzerland, but without money. If only it had better infrastructure and a higher standard of living, Travnik would be a posh ski resort. But it doesn’t…so it isn’t.

Throughout our road trip, I was on a crusade to try ćevapčići in its many forms. For aficionados of Balkan cuisine, Bosnia is the homeland of ćevap — perfectly seasoned minced meat formed into little links, then grilled on an open fire — much as France specializes in cheese, or Spain corners the market on bizarre seafood. I was excited to start my culinary adventure in Travnik, based on the recommendation of our Bosnian friend (and fellow Rick Steves tour guide), Sanel : “While in Travnik, for the love of God, do not miss ćevapčići in Restaurant Hari.”

Tragically, Restaurant Hari was closed for renovation. For the love of God, indeed! But our search for it led us to Travnik’s architectural gem: the hauntingly beautiful, wood-carved Sulejmanija Mosque. The interior was closed, but we discovered a modern mini-market tucked in its basement. Ben explained that this custom dates back to the earliest days of Islam in Bosnia, when it made sense to invite merchants to open up shop in this central and well-protected space. Just up the street is a museum filling the former home of Nobel Prize-winning novelist Ivo Andrić. There’s a lot going on in little Travnik.

Undeterred, we continued on our ćevap quest, which took us across the main highway to another Bosnian friend’s recommendation: Lutvina Kahva, a grill café with an inviting riverside terrace perched just so, at the end of a long, gushing series of gentle waterfalls.

In the Muslim parts of Bosnia, as throughout the Islamic world, running water is a cultural fixture. While Catholics bless still water and call it holy, Muslims believe that the power of nature is in its movement; they prefer water to be continually flowing, cleansing, replenishing, circulating. Just as a dervish whirls to connect with the spirituality of the earth and the heavens, so, too, should water be in motion.

Listening to the mesmerizing gurgle, I dug into a big plate of perfectly grilled ćevap on flatbread ( somun ), slathered with the decadent, perfectly tart cream cheese called kajmak , sprinkled with chopped fresh onions, and liberally doused with the explosively flavorful eggplant-and-red-pepper paste called ajvar . To finish the meal, I ordered a cup of bosanska kafa (unfiltered Bosnian coffee) — which, just as our friend had told us, came on its own little copper tray with a Turkish delight (rahatlokum)… and a single cigarette (Yugoslav-era Sava brand, of course). Caffeine, sugar, and nicotine: The holy triumvirate of Bosnian stimulants.

Climbing back into our car, we languidly curled through more idyllic Bosnian countryside — and over a desolate mountain pass — about an hour to our next stop: the town of Jajce (pronounced “YAI-tseh”). A provincial center of about 30,000 people, Jajce owns just about the most stunning setting of any town I’ve seen: Preening on a hilltop over thundering waterfalls that tumble into a tight riverbend.

But for Partisans and Tito sympathizers, that is all merely preamble to Jajce’s true claim to fame as the birthplace of Yugoslavia. It was here, in November of 1943, that the Anti-Fascist Council for the National Liberation of Yugoslavia (AVNOJ) held its second convention. While that sounds pretty obscure to outsiders, it’s a big deal: It was at this meeting that representatives of various groups decided that, should they prevail in World War II, they would create a bold new incarnation of Yugoslavia.

Ben and I drove into town, our Yugoslav-history-wonk pulses quickening. (As an indication of how off-the-deep-end I am for the marginalia of Yugoslav history, I have a vintage, circa-1970 tourist map of Yugoslavia hanging over my desk, next to photos of my wife, parents, and dearest friends.)

Parking the car, I paused to purchase a laughably flimsy Yugoslav flag from a street vendor before stepping into the convention hall. The big, mostly empty space — decorated as it was the day of that fateful convention — resembled a midcentury Holiday Inn ballroom. There stood Tito — in bronze statue form — at the stage. And, because the Yugoslavs were hoping to curry favor with the Allies, on the walls hung a motley crew of portraits: Tito, Stalin, Marx, Churchill, and FDR.

I must admit, the place gave me goosebumps. This is the “Independence Hall” of Yugoslavia, where — all joking aside — a ragtag band of homegrown freedom fighters had the audacity to form a country that did not even exist yet. Perusing the exhibits — one apiece furnished by each of Yugoslavia’s six constituent republics — I was swept up in this vision of a united Yugoslavia, which would flourish for nearly five decades before it was snuffed out by land-hungry politicians.

My nostalgia for Yugoslavia is, of course, tempered by an awareness of its many flaws. And, I think, it’s stoked by my knowledge of what happened at the end of the story: Yugoslavia was ripped apart by those who placed their own interests above the collective whole…and Bosnia paid the worst price of all.

Buying matching Tito lapel pins from the gift shop, we set out to explore the rest of Jajce — hiking down to the base of its thundering waterfall, then up through its antique streets to the mighty fortress capping the town. Jajce is a charming burg. With a little investment, it could be every bit as vital and alluring as trendy places like Český Krumlov, Romania’s Sighișoara, or Germany’s Rothenburg. Instead, it’s a sleepy town with little touristic metabolism. Perched on the ramparts of Jajce’s fortress, surveying the verdant hillsides, I was struck again by how magnificent this mountainous country is — and how, with some smart investment, it could become a travelers’ mecca. Switzerland without money, indeed.

Back in our car, we made a quick pit stop at yet another water feature — a higgledy-piggledy little stand of antique mills balanced just so on rocks in the middle of a waterfall.

Leaving Jajce, we set out for our next destination, in the other half of Bosnia. The Dayton Peace Accords that ended the wars in Bosnia in 1995 gerrymandered the country to create two major sub-states. One was the Bosniak and Croat part of Bosnia, which we’d been traveling through so far. The other was the Republika Srpska, a Serb-dominated territory that we were heading for now. Our next stop: Banja Luka (pop. 200,000), the capital of Republika Srpska.

We crossed the internal border with little fanfare, but soon we began to notice more Cyrillic on the signs, instead of the  more familiar Roman alphabet we’d been seeing so far. Approaching Banja Luka, we drove through the stunning canyon of the Vrbas River, a major rafting destination. The sight of a few rafters completing their late-day journey stoked our interest, but the next morning, our many phone calls to various rafting operators went unanswered. Apparently in Repubika Srpska, Sunday morning is sacrosanct — even if a pair of foreigners is dying to give you their money.

We checked into our Airbnb: a sprawling, well-equipped apartment a 10-minute walk from the center of town, all for about $40 a night. The front door — with a locking mechanism that slid a dozen no-nonsense bolts decisively into place, essentially turning the entire apartment into a fortified panic room — reminded us that, with the recent legacy of gruesome war, Bosnians don’t take home security lightly.

It was time for dinner, so we walked along Banja Luka’s broad boulevards to the river. We weren’t sure what to expect from this would-be capital of a would-be breakaway republic with a minuscule GDP. But we were pleasantly surprised by how modern and tidy Banja Luka felt — with the pride, economic metabolism, and vitality of any mid-sized Central European city.

I had only one agenda in Banja Luka, and that was to try the local ćevap. Grilled meat gourmands know that they do it differently here: Instead of little link-shaped sausages, Banja Luka-style ( banjalučki) ćevapi is one long, continuous ćevap with hot peppers on the side. Yes, I’d already had ćevap once today. But when was I gonna make it back to Banja Luka?

We went to the historic fortress and nabbed the last available table at the fancy restaurant inside, Tvrđava Kastel. It was a rollicking scene, with a Balkan brass band blaring jaunty tunes in the corner. At the next table, a comically musclebound meathead grew increasingly animated in conversation with his tablemate. As he slowly amassed an impressive collection of empty beer glasses, it became difficult to tell whether this was a happy conversation or an angry conversation. As a pair of bespectacled, brainy Americans, we kept a very low profile.

I ordered my ćevap , but was crestfallen when it showed up not as my fantasized-for banjalučki ćevapi, but the same old version I’ve had all over Bosnia. Meanwhile, Ben chatted up our middle-aged, matronly server in Serbian. Charmed, she told Ben about her dear daughter, who lived part-time in Florida and worked the rest of the time on a cruise ship, hoping to permanently relocate stateside. Ben and I were imagining a demure, wholesome young woman pulling herself up by the bootstraps. But when she showed us a picture, we instantly grasped two things: First, the daughter — a masterpiece of plastic surgery, makeup, and spandex — was no shrinking violet. (The prevailing beauty aesthetic in these parts can most diplomatically be described as “porn glam.”) And second, our server had matchmaking designs on Ben. (“He can get you that visa you’ve been wanting. And he speaks Serbian, too!”) Escaping just before the formal proposal, we made our way back to our high-rise fortress.

The next morning, we poked around Banja Luka a bit more before heading out. The Museum of Republika Srpska fills a run-down, concrete-and-glass building that feels deserted. But, digging into the exhibits, we were impressed by how thoughtfully and even-handedly this almost-country presented itself. It accomplished what the national museum for any underdog nation should, which is to endear and intrigue us to a place we’d never really known much about.

The most compelling exhibit detailed the World War II years, when Bosnia was ruled by a Nazi puppet government called the Ustaše. The Croat-controlled Ustaše pursued the same genocidal regime as the Nazis, but with a regionally inflected spin — targeting their historic enemies, the Serbs. And the museum’s exhibits are as harrowing as any we had ever seen (mind you, Ben and I have both guided tours to Auschwitz-Birkenau). Ustaše camps lacked gas chambers, so most deaths were from blunt-force trauma. One grisly photo showed a very young Ustaše soldier grinning widely — as if in a prom portrait — as he posed with the disembodied head of an executed Serb warrior. And an entire wall was filled with gruesome photographs of babies who died at Ustaše concentration camps.

The most notorious of those camps — Jasenovac — sits just across the modern border, in Croatia. So Ben and I decided to stop off there on our way to catch his flight in Zagreb. The Jasenovac memorial site includes a small, modern museum documenting the history of the camp. The names of victims are etched in glass panels in the walls and hanging from the ceiling. And the thoughtful exhibits toe a very careful line, with soberly written displays and recorded testimonials from former prisoners — but without a trace of the graphic photos we’d just seen across the border. Many observers feel that, unlike Germany, Croatia has not entirely owned up to its culpability in World War II atrocities — partly because its 1940s activities later became entangled with its 1990s independence. And, while this museum is an important step forward, I couldn’t shake the feeling that they could have told the story with a little more…enthusiasm.

The emotional centerpiece of Jasenovac is a long, pensive hike from the museum: an evocative, flower-shaped sculpture by Serb artist Bogdan Bogdanović. Standing here, listening to the distant rumble of the sleek Croatian expressway, and looking just across the river to the hills of Bosnia’s Republika Srpska, Ben and I reflected on the contrasts that a whirlwind road trip through Bosnia offers.

Our journey is over. But one thing’s for sure: We’ll both be back. Bosnia has a strange magnetism on travelers…and not just those of us who have a Yugoslav map on our wall.

8 Replies to “Bosnia Road Trip: Off the Beaten Path in the Beautiful Balkans”

Very interesting reading. I enjoyed your writing very much. I have a similar fetish about the Soviet Union and Eastern Europe, and reading these things about Yugoslavia and today’s Bosnia touched me. Please keep up the good work.

I am so keen to explore beyond Sarajevo, which I absolutely loved. Thanks for reminding me of the amazing food

Damn, you and Ben should have invited me and Barb! :-)

These stories brought tears to my eyes , I am Bosnian and I know all these little towns that you visited… Thank you so much for sharing

I’m envious. That’s the kind of trip that I dream about making someday.

Enjoy your style of writing. It really puts the reader in the moment. Your comments about Bosnian home security really brought me back to a Bishkek apartment. I was on a USAID Kyrgyzstan assignment. I arrived in the dead of night after a long flight. The host was very gracious and proud of the apartment, but for me the many deadbolts and communist styled concrete building was too jail like. Fortunately I was so tired I just crashed and enjoyed a wonderful assignment.

I n 2016 we drove from Zagreb to Sarajevo and stopped at this quite large modern church in the middle of nowhere. We could not figure out what it was doing so far from a population center and it was quite large. Any ideas?

I, too, have a weird and unexplainable draw to the Balkans and am planning a self-guided tour by bus there this summer. Thanks for the article. By the way, a friend and I spent years searching New England for the best corned beef hash. Just sayin’

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Bosnia Road Trip: Itinerary for Bosnia-Herzegovina (10 Days) in the Balkans

by Drifter Planet | Feb 9, 2020 | Bosnia and Herzegovina , Most Popular Blog Posts

How awesome is Bosnia-Herzegovina – there are epic waterfalls, stunning clear rivers and charming little towns. 

When considering a country in eastern Europe for a road trip, Bosnia & Herzegovina should be one of the first countries on your mind. This idyllic country often gets overshadowed by its neighbour, Croatia. Don’t get me wrong, Croatia is a magnificent country in itself but Bosnia & Herzegovina is just something else.

Driving in Bosnia-Herzegovina

Nature-lovers will be astounded by the abundance of natural marvels that are hidden within Bosnia & Herzegovina. It is a surprise that it is often less travelled than its neighbours, but that also means that it is typically less crowded. This also means that you will be able to travel around without seeing the full effects that tourism has on the society. You can expect genuine, unforgettable experiences.

Even though this post has a recommended itinerary for a road trip in Bosnia-Herzegovina, we recommend not making concrete plans but having a rough idea where you want to start and end. Enter Bosnia, go find a river and drive along it.

We drove along the Drina and got to see some of the most amazing scenery on our rented car . On our second trip here, we explored the area around Una and Krka rivers in our Camper van . 

One of the many scenic spots while road tripping in Bosnia

Believe it or not, the above picture hasn’t been edited and these colors are real. This place was right along the Drina river a few hours after crossing Visegrad .

Yes, “Bosnia and Herzegovina” is a pretty long name, so throughout this article, we often mention just “Bosnia” or “Bosnia-Herzegovina” instead of using the full name. Yes, these are acceptable nicknames for this lovely country, pars pro toto !

Starting Point for Bosnia & Herzegovina Road Trip:

Us with our van in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Most people start their Bosnia road trip from Croatia and it makes total sense to start at Una National Park , which is barely 30 kilometers from Croatia’s Plitvice Lakes . Both these countries share a long stretch of border with each other and it is a good idea to combine a Croatia road trip with Bosnia & Herzegovina. Be sure to read the post about our Croatia road trip .

In case you’re flying to Bosnia-Herzegovina, then your starting point will be Sarajevo and from there you can rent a car and do this itinerary in a loop. This way, you can return your rented car back in Sarajevo. The first time we rented a car here, we were quite stupid and went from one car rental shop to another at the airport to compare prices, cars and what not. We wished if there was a SINGLE website we could go to in order to compare everything. We know better now, of course there is a website and it is a pretty reputed one. If you want to compare car rental prices for different destinations, you can do this here on this website .

In case you’re entering from Serbia or Montenegro, your starting point will be Visegrad , it is situated close to both Serbia and Montenegro borders. The first time we visited Bosnia-Herzegovina, it was on a road trip from Serbia and we drove to Montenegro right after that. Check out this ultimate Balkan road trip itinerary to see our trip.

Una National Park – 2 Days

Milančev Buk – Martin Brod Waterfall in Una National Park, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Una National Park is situated just off the border shared with Croatia and is much easier to get to while driving. It was established to protect the Una River; which is it centered around; Krka River and the Unac River. This park is known for its tufa formations. Picture stunning limestone formations but more porous; with holes that allow water to flow through and create magical waterfall systems.

Amazing camping spot in Una National Park -Camping & picnic place Lucica

At Una National Park, you will feel like you have escaped to a shrouded wonderland surrounded by lush flora and the sound of the powerful cascades. There are also many spots around the park where you can stop to set up a picnic for the day or camp for the night.

Jajce – 1 Day

Jajce – Bosnia-Herzegovina Road Trip – CC0 VIA  Pixabay

Jajce is a medieval town characterised by its fortress that sits atop the city and the waterfalls that flow beneath. Jajce is an interesting place to stop at on your Bosnia road trip not only because it’s breathtaking sites, but also the historical importance of this town. 

It once was a bustling capital of the Bosnian Kingdom and Jajce Fortress was the home of the last Bosnian King before it fell under Ottoman rule. Nowadays, the landmark is a great place to catch memorable views of the sunset. 

The waterfall that is “under” Jajce is called Pliva Waterfall and it is located right next to the town so it is very easy to get to. Lots of people opt to cross the river in order to get a photo of the Jajce Fortress, the town, and Pliva Waterfall together in a composition that looks almost unreal.

Mostar – 2-3 Days

Mostar in Bosnia & Herzegovina – Travel to the Balkans

Our next stop on this Bonia Road Trip is to Mostar, a city most known for the impressive Stari Most Bridge. Mostar Bridge is a well reconstructed and preserved Ottomanesque bridge that is impossible to miss while in Mostar. If you are lucky enough to be in Mostar at the end of July, you will have the chance to witness the local diving competition. This is a tradition where the bravest, young men take on the 24 m leap into the Neretva river.

Mostar was exposed to a variety of different cultural influences in the past which can be seen in the architecture as you wander the streets of the Old Town. The traditional food here is no different, sampling flavours from Middle Eastern dishes with a Central European twist.

Lastly, Mostar is a town that loves the arts. There are countless galleries, museums, and theatres to view works from Bosnian Natives and it is also the location of some really exciting summer festivals. 

Blagaj – Day Trip from Mostar

Blagaj on Buna Spring in Bosnia & Herzegovina – Road trip itinerary

During your three days in Mostar, you might want to explore a bit outside the city and Blagaj is the perfect place to go! A short 15 minute drive will take you to the small village of Blagaj which is the location of an ancient Dervish Monastery and Vrelo Bune; a captivating natural spring.

I’m sure we say it often enough but we love being in natural environments and Buna Spring will not fail to enchant you. Its main alluring feature is the contrast between the rigid structures of the building and the organic flow of the landscape surrounding it.

You can go into the Blagaj Tekija (the Blagaj Monastery) if you wish for two and a half euros or simply spend the day wandering the village. There are also a few restaurants next to the spring that you can stop at for a bite to eat before heading back to Mostar.

Kravice Waterfalls – 1 Day (stay in Studenci town or Međugorje for the night)

Eating and Drinking in Kravice Waterfalls Bosnia

Another popular day trip from Mostar is to the incredible Kravice Waterfalls but we think that they deserve a longer visit. To experience the true beauty of the falls, consider spending the night in Stufenci town or Međugorje. This will allow you to spend as much time as you want to enjoy Kravice falls as well as explore the grounds after the tour bus crowds leave.

Kravice Waterfalls in Bosnia and Herzegovina – travel the Balkans

Kravice waterfalls are a system of tufa cascades surrounded by lush forests. The falls empty into a crystal clear pool which you are allowed to swim in. Aside from taking in the spectacular sites of the falls, there are numerous spaces to set up a picnic, a swing to get that perfect ‘gram photo, and spots to relax. We have a lot more information in our blog post about Kravice Waterfalls .

Kravice Waterfalls, Bosnia & Herzegovina – Balkans Road Trip itinerary

There are 4 major waterfalls in this area of land that’s shared by Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina – and they’re all spectacular and have tufa formations. These are Kravice, Plitvice (Croatia), Krka National Park (Croatia) and Una National Park (Bosnia) and out of all of them our best experience was at Kravice. It was because we could swim and experience the true beauty and it wasn’t as crowded as Croatia’s Krka National Park.

Vjetrenica Cave – Stop here for an hour on your way

Inside Vjetrenica Cave in Bosnia & Herzegovina

Next on our Bosnia road trip itinerary we suggest heading to the southern part of the country and even staying in Dubrovnik, Croatia for a few days but first, stop by Vjetrenica cave. 

Vjetrenica Cave is located outside the small village of Zavala and is completely worth a short visit while travelling around southern Bosnia. You don’t need to stop here for long but just do a little tour that will take you 30 minutes. It is one of those stops in your road trip itinerary where you can just stop for a snack and toilet and see something beautiful.

Albino cave salamander or Human Fish in Vjetrenica Cave

If you enjoyed watching BBC’s Planet Earth documentary series, then maybe you remember the episode about caves. It features a rare albino salamander, and I never imagined in my lifetime I’d get to see a creature as elusive as this, but I did in Vjetrenica cave. It is also sometimes called a “human fish” because of its skin color. 

Walking inside Vjetrenica Cave, Bosnia-Herzegovina

We highly recommend you t ake a tour into the first 600 metres of this massive cave filled with a unique biodiversity that you won’t be able to see anywhere else. Two hundred subterranean species call the 20 km of Vjetrenica cave home.

While here, you can also visit Popovo Polje which is an expansive karstic field unique to the region due to the nearby Trebišnjica River. 

Dubrovnik – 1-2 Days 

Dubrovnik – King’s Landing in Game of Thrones – Croatia Itinerary

This is a great opportunity to fit Dubrovnik seamlessly into your travel plans as you would need to cross through Bosnia & Herzgovnia regardless to explore this 16th century seaport. Dubrovnik is well-known for having an old town that is reminiscent of the renaissance era that spread across Europe. 

Dubrovnik – Bosnia Road Trip Itinerary

The charming cityscape alone attracts visitors to Dubrovnik with its romantic gothic and romanesque structures. Along with walking around the Old City, you can spend a day at one of the glorious beaches and dip your toes in the Adriatic Sea. 

Any Game of Thrones fans won’t want to skip seeing the walls of Dubrovnik which you will probably recognize as King’s Landing. In fact, you can go on a walking tour around the city to all the spots that the series featured.

Višegrad – 1-2 days

The Bridge on the Drina – Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge in Visegrad, Bosnia & Herzegovina

The last stop that you should add to you Bosnia road trip is Višegrad. If you are coming in from Serbia, you are most likely going to want to stop here first and do this whole itinerary in reverse order. 

Višegrad and its notable historical bridge is the setting of the book, “Bridge over the Drina” which was written by Ivo Andrić. Raised in Višegrad, Andrić went on to win the Nobel Prize in Literature and gained recognition for the bridge that he once played on as a child; the Mehmed Paša Sokolovic bridge which is elegantly placed over the Drina river. 

The lovely Drina river, near Visegrad, Bosnia & Herzegovina

After you spend the day exploring the town of Višegrad, we highly recommend having dinner at Anika. Feast on some delicious dishes while enjoying a view of the bridge over the Drina at this locally cherished riverside restaurant. 

Sarajevo – Optional 

Sarajevo – Bosnia-Herzegovina Road Trip Itinerary – CC0 via Pixabay

If you have extra time, you can visit the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina on your road trip. Sarajevo, much like the rest of Bosnia, displays remnants from the Ottoman era. For any history buffs, the city is filled with significant local history to learn about and there are no shortage of interesting museums to visit.

Sarajevo is said to be an interesting stunning city, but honestly, we haven’t visited it despite our two road trips in Bosnia-Herzegovina. Big cities aren’t really for us, but we feel it is important to let our readers know about their options. 

Tips for Driving in Bosnia & Herzegovina 

Paved road in Una National Park

We highly recommend driving around Bosnia with your friends if you have the option as it gives you so much more freedom with your itinerary. Here are just a few tips that you should consider before taking your own vehicle or renting one to start your road trip around Bosnia & Herzegovina.

We mentioned making a stop in Dubrovnik and if that is something you are keen to do, you need to make sure you have a green card for your car if it is a non EU registration. This basically just ensures that you have the proper vehicle insurance to cover cross-border travel.

Right outside Vjetrenica Cave in Bosnia & Herzegovina

Bosnia and Herzegovina has quite a few traffic control stops where we saw people being stopped for speeding. We luckily weren’t stopped but if we can take one thing from this – Don’t speed and make sure to read and follow traffic rules to avoid any mishaps with the authorities.

If you notice someone signaling you by blinking their headlights, then they’re probably trying to warn you of an upcoming police checkpoint. Keep your speed in check as soon as you see this.

Try to get a car that has the ability to keep your devices charged. We don’t know what we would have done without access to google maps to help ensure we were going in the right direction. The last thing you want to happen is to be lost with no access to your phone.

No matter where you go, be sure to stay on the paved road. This is what we heard from everyone and is because of the threat of landmines.

We have a post on our website with tips for traveling in Europe with a campervan , it has a country specific section about Bosnia. Make sure you check it out as well. 

Best Time to Go to Bosnia-Herzegovina 

Lovely landscape in Bosnia-Herzegovina along the way – road trip itinerary

To be honest, Bosnia and Herzegovina is a country that you can enjoy anytime throughout the year because each season offers its own unique set of experiences. Some of the most popular times to go are during the spring from April to June as those months see the mildest temperatures and are perfect for enjoying the natural wonders of Bosnia.

Since most of the destinations mentioned on our Bosnia-Herzegovina road trip itinerary are natural wonders, then we highly recommend the time from April to September. 

The county sees its hottest temperatures in July and August and its coldest in January and February. If you love to partake in winter activities, Bosnia during the wintertime is a dream and the months of February and March will offer you longer days to play in the snow.

The Food in Bosnia-Herzegovina

Our dinner in Anika restaurant in Visegrad, Bosnia and Herzegovina

I will be honest, I did not enjoy a lot of my food in Bosnia & Herzegovina because most of it was meat. I’m not a vegetarian or a vegan – I just love eating vegetables and dislike meat. The vegetables were very hard to find except in salads.

Salad in Anika restaurant, Visegrad, Bosnia-Herzegovina – Limited vegetarian food options

If you enjoy meat then you won’t have a hard time in Bosnia-Herzegovina. You can eat the famous ćevapi , which is like a kebab or ćufte , which is like meatballs or kofte. This is what San usually ate while we were traveling here and he loved it.

You can also try burek – which is a pastry that’s usually filled with minced meat but I often found vegetarian options that were stuffed with spinach and cheese, which is usually called zeljanica . You can buy burek in most of the cafes and bakeries.

A really good vegetarian food option in Bosnia is tarhana , which is a simple soup made with homemade pasta. It tasted divine! I had tarhana as a part of one of our best meals in Bosnia was home cooked and prepared for us by our Bosnian hosts while we were in Una National Park.

Is Bosnia-Herzegovina Safe to Travel Alone?

Kravice Waterfalls in Bosnia-Herzegovina

Yes! Although we travelled together around this beautiful country, I would feel completely safe travelling around Bosnia-Herzegovina solo. While I was traveling solo in Turkey in 2010, I met a Chinese-American girl who mentioned she was traveling solo in Bosnia-Herzegovina just a few months before Turkey and she loved it.

A lot of people still think about the conflicts that occurred in the 90s and are concerned that this has deemed Bosnia unsafe but that is quite far from the truth.

If you stick to the cities that we have recommended here, you will find yourself more often than not greeted by friendly faces. Travelling with a strong awareness and common sense is a given when making your way around Bosnia as with anywhere else in the world. 

Where to go After Bosnia-Herzegovina?

San and I in Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia

If you didn’t go to Croatia before you embarked on your Bosnia & Herzegovina trip, then you should head here and travel around this country. There are so many interesting sites to see in Croatia and one of the best reasons to go is to soak up the sun on the Istria Coast .

With a relatively moderate climate all year round, Croatia is a favourite amongst travellers within the Balkans for a reason. There are many small islands to explore as well, which means that there are plenty of opportunities to avoid crowds and find your own natural sanctuaries to relax in.

Banjska Stena, Tara National Park in Serbia, near Mokra Gora

Following our ultimate Bosnia Herzegovina Road trip itinerary, we have led you right to Serbia which is only a half hour drive away from Višegrad . With bustling, urban cities, a rich cultural history, and flavourful local cuisine, Serbia is an amazing country to continue on to if you are travelling through the Balkans. 

Also, if you are in love with all the natural wonders that you witnessed on your Bosnia & Herzegovina road trip and would like to see more, Serbia is ready to wow you. There are quite a few established and hidden natural sites to stop at while travelling this underrated country.

Black Lake – Durmitor National Park near Žabljak, Montenegro

Our last suggestion is to head to Montenegro. It is one of the smaller countries in the Balkans , but don’t let its size fool you. There are tons of astonishing sites to behold while travelling this country. The Dinaric Alps make up a large portion of the north of Montenegro which shifts to plains the more south you go.

Montenegro is also the home of the popular and stunning, Kotor Bay. The diverse natural terrain and charming old towns within this country are enough reasons to head to Montenegro after completing your Bosnia road trip. 

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Comparing Kravica Waterfall to Plitvice or Krka is ridiculous. Kravica is one single waterfall on a river, where people come to have a picnic and swim. Plitvice and Krka are extensive national parks, with Plitvice being unique in the world for its 16 cascading lakes and about 100 waterfalls, in spite of the crowds. On the other hand, the Krka NP covers a large section of the Krka river, a lake with an island and a centuries old monastery, Orthodox monastery, Roman ruins,and lastly, the Skradinski Buk Waterfall that you visited. Kravica is nice, but I would advise you to put things into perspective for your readers.

Of course it is ridiculous. 🙂 But sometimes a simple comparison helps a traveler who has limited time and can visit just one of these 3 places.

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Hello Travelers!

Namaste, Guten Tag! I'm Sonal from India, living in Germany and exploring Europe. I've been writing about my travels since 2015. I often travel alone (and sometimes with family of 3).

I love European city breaks, nature, adventure, hiking to viewpoints, Yoga, and road trips. I have a knack for creating the most amazing travel itineraries and in-depth destination guides which will help you make the most of your trip.

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Last Updated on September 21, 2023 by Drifter Planet

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide

Last Updated: August 17, 2023

Often overlooked because the country’s name is still synonymous with the Yugoslavian War of the 1990s, Bosnia & Herzegovina deserves your attention. It’s one of the most underrated destinations in Europe .

Not a lot of people backpack or travel through the country but it is rich in history, culture, and natural beauty.

Three major religions (Islam, Roman Catholic, and Serbian Orthodox) all come together in this small area to form a vibrant blend of cultures. You’ll hear the Muslim call to prayer over the minarets one minute, and church bells ringing from a nearby church the next.

Watch skilled divers jump from the iconic bridge in Mostar, enjoy some hookah at one of Sarajevo’s sidewalk cafes, take a dip in the turquoise pools below the cascading Kravica Falls, or raft down the Tara Canyon, the deepest canyon in Europe.

The country (especially the capital) has become more popular in recent years thanks to increasing tourism in the region and cheaper prices but you can still catch it before the big crowds come!

This travel guide to Bosnia & Herzegovina will help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your time in this off-the-beaten-path destination!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Bosnia & Herzegovina

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Bosnia & Herzegovina

1. See Sarajevo

Bosnia’s capital has a distinct “east meets west” vibe. Perched alongside the Miljacka River and surrounded by mountains, the city is both scenic and historic. It is well-known for its cultural diversity and is sometimes referred to as the Jerusalem of Europe; within the city you can sometimes find a mosque, a catholic church, and a synagogue all within a few blocks. Wander the colorful Bascarsija Square for excellent people-watching, and while you’re there visit the iconic Sebilj Fountain. This Ottoman-style wooden fountain was originally built in 1753 and relocated in 1891. Local legend claims that if you drink from the fountain, you will always return to Sarajevo. Enjoy some hookah, take the cable car to the top of Mount Trebevic for incredible views, and visit the Bašcaršija historic market for some snacks and more people-watching.

2. Check out Mostar

Mostar is a medieval city best known for its 16th-century bridge, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, straddling the Neretva river. The bridge is constructed in the Ottoman style, and on warm days you will often spot locals jumping off into the river. Mostar’s name comes from the word mostari , which translates to bridge keeper (the original bridge was crucial to an important trade route). Strolling through Mostar is like traveling back in time, with its picturesque cobblestone streets and incredible architecture. Explore this historic town and see the ancient Ottoman homes and panoramic views from the local mosque. It’s one of the best cities in the country.

3. Visit the Pliva Lakes

The Pliva Lakes are two emerald lakes surrounded by wooded mountains, just outside Jajce. The area is home to the famous Pliva watermills, unique wooden watermills that were traditionally used to grind wheat. With rivers, waterfalls, and easy bike paths, outdoor lovers flock here to swim, paddle, bike, and explore. Surrounded by amenities like picnic tables, fire pits, kayak rentals, cafes, and playgrounds, the lakes are an ideal place to enjoy a day surrounded by nature. The lakes are formed from the widening Pliva River, which joins the Vrbas River and empties over the 22-meter (72-foot) Pliva Waterfall. For something unique, plan your visit to the annual waterfall jumping competition held here each August.

4. Marvel at the Kravica Waterfall

These marvelous cascades drop 25 meters (82 feet) into a bright emerald pool. During the springtime, the forests surrounding the pool and waterfall blossom into lush greenery, giving the area an oasis-like appearance. You can spend the day splashing in the swimming hole and swinging from the rope swing. Afterward, there’s a little café next to the water where you can grab a snack or a cold beer. Admission is 20 BAM, and swimming is allowed. To see the falls as part of a day trip from Mostar or Dubrovnik costs around 70 BAM.

5. Explore Trebinje

Other things to see and do in bosnia & herzegovina, 1. ostrožac fortress.

This Gothic castle in the Una Valley is one of Bosnia’s most photogenic landmarks thanks to its brick torrents and stone wall running along the valley’s edge. Ostrožac has plenty to explore within its grounds, including a sculpture garden, ramparts, towers, and a manor house dating back to 1286. You can only visit the castle during the summer. Admission is 4 BAM.

2. Walk the Tunnel of Hope

Surrounded by Bosnian-Serb forces, Sarajevo had just one link with the outside world from 1992–1995: an 800-meter long (2,624-feet), 1-meter (3-feet) wide, 1.6-meter (5-feet) high tunnel connecting two houses on opposite sides of the airport runway. Eventually, the tunnel was equipped with rails to transport food and supplies. You can walk through part of the tunnel from the house at the western entrance while learning about the story of the siege through informational displays and videos. It’s an incredibly moving experience. The tunnel is open 9am-5pm daily and admission is 10 BAM.

3. Visit the National Museum of Bosnia & Herzegovina

The National Museum of Bosnia & Herzegovina in Sarajevo houses the Sarajevo Haggadah (a Jewish text) illuminated manuscript, which contains the illustrated text of the Passover Haggadah that goes with the Passover Seder. It’s one of the oldest Haggadah in the world, dating from 1350 and originating in Barcelona. In addition to Greek pottery and Roman mosaics, this museum is also home to a collection of stecci (medieval tombstones found scattered around the country). They started appearing in the 12th century for various Christian churches like the Bosnian Church, and most of them are inscribed with the extinct Bosnian Cyrillic alphabet. The entrance to the museum is 8 BAM.

4. See the Mehmed Pasha Sokolovic Bridge

Mehmed Pasha Sokolovic Bridge was built in Višegrad in 1571 and was designed by Mimar Sinan, the famous chief architect for the Ottoman Empire. He was the master builder behind both the Sehzade Mosque and the Süleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul, and this 11-arch bridge is the only confirmed work he completed in Bosnia & Herzegovina. It stretches 179 meters (587 feet) across the Drina River, and although it’s now closed to traffic, you can still appreciate its perfectly symmetrical beauty from the land.

5. See the watermills of Jajce

Jajce is known as the “city of falling water” thanks to its giant waterfall that connects the rivers Pliva and Vrbas. During the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1867-1918), the small wooden huts stood on stilts over the gushing water used to ground local farmers’ wheat into flour. You can’t go inside, but you can see the huts up close as you explore.

6. Take a tour of Tito’s Bunker

On the bank of the river Neretva, just outside of Konjic and hidden behind a seemingly normal house, the once-forgotten bunker was built under the command of the Yugoslav revolutionary Josip Tito. It was kept secret for many years — even the construction workers were blindfolded until they arrived on site. The bunker cost billions of dollars to build and is now home to a contemporary art biennial called D-0 ARK Underground. You can only visit as a part of a guided tour with Visit Konjic, which costs 22 BAM.

7. See the Bosnian Pyramids

Located near Visoko, the Bosnian Pyramids are a set of four pyramids dating back 12,000 years ago that have perfect cardinal alignment, some reaching heights of 220 meters (721 feet). While most of the scientific community has debunked the theory that an ancient civilization built these structures, it’s a pretty amazing coincidence that they’re so aligned with the north. There are no official tours, so you’re free to explore on your own.

8. Visit Galerija 11/07/95

One of the most tragic events of the Yugoslavian War was the Srebrenica massacre, the largest genocide since World War II carried out by Bosnian Serb forces. With 8,372 victims, the gallery stands as a memorial to those that lost their life while also sharing survivor stories. It’s a powerful exhibition made up of photography, video footage, and audio testimonies. Admission is 12 BAM. An audio guide costs 3 BAM and a tour is 4 BAM.

9. Go whitewater rafting

Whitewater rafting on the Tara River Canyon, the deepest canyon in Europe, is one of the most exciting things to do in the country as you tackle rapids and fast-flowing water. Other than navigating 25 kilometers (15 miles) of white water, your guide will take you to waterfalls, springs, and swimming holes. I recommend Rafting Center Drina Tara. Their full-day tour costs 140 BAM and ends with a delicious traditional dinner of homemade goat pies, soup, grilled lamb, and drinks.

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Costs

Accommodation – Hostel dorms start at around 19 BAM per night for an 8-10-bed dorm while a bed in a 4-6 person dorm costs closer to 28 BAM. For a private room, expect to pay at least 45-63 BAM per night for a twin.

Budget hotels in bigger cities (like Mostar and Sarajevo) cost around 63 BAM per night for a double or twin. In the more rural areas, you’ll find rooms for as low as 35 BAM.

Airbnb is another affordable option, with private rooms starting around 30 BAM per night while a full home or apartment costs at least 40 BAM (though prices average double that or more).

For anyone traveling with a tent, wild camping on public land is legal in Bosnia & Herzegovina. Additionally, there are campsites available throughout the country. Tent plots cost about 10.50 BAM per person.

Food – Traditional food in Bosnia & Herzegovina is very cheap and filling (and meat-heavy). Beef and lamb are popular staples, and influences from the Middle East and the Mediterranean are common. Sarma (meat and rice in pickled cabbage leaves), cevapi (a pita filled with cream and sausage), and burek (a flaky pastry with meat, cheese, and spinach) are some of the popular traditional choices. Common ingredients include potatoes, tomatoes, onions, garlic, cabbage, and plums.

You can get plates of cevapi or burek for about 7 BAM. A meal at a mid-range restaurant costs about 15 BAM and you can expect to pay about 3 BAM for a beer. Dinner at a fancy restaurant (including Western restaurants) costs about 35 BAM for an appetizer, main, and dessert.

For comparison, fast food like McDonald’s is about 9 BAM for a combo meal.

If you are planning to cook your own food, a week’s worth of groceries costs around 45-65 BAM. This gets you basic staples like rice, seasonal produce, and some meat.

Backpacking Bosnia & Herzegovina Suggested Budgets

If you are backpacking in Bosnia & Herzegovina, my suggested budget is 85 BAM per day. This assumes you’re staying in a hostel dorm, cooking your meals, sticking to mostly free activities (like free walking tours and hiking), and using public transportation to get around.

A mid-range budget of about 160 BAM covers staying in an Airbnb, eating out for all your meals at cheap local places, enjoying a few drinks, taking the occasional taxi, and doing more paid activities like museum visits or rafting.

On a “luxury” budget of 275 BAM per day or more, you will stay in a hotel, eat out for all your meals, enjoy lots of drinks, take more taxis or rent a car, and do all the tours you desire. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in BAM.

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Bosnia & Herzegovina, like most of the region, is very budget-friendly. You’ll be able to eat, drink, and stay in comfortable accommodations without breaking the bank too much. However, I always love saving money when I can so here are some tips to help you save money when you visit:

• Do a free walking tour – Both Sarajevo and Mostar have free walking tours available. They’re a great way to get familiar with the city and the culture. Just be sure to tip your guide at the end!
• Wild camp – If you really want to save money in Bosnia & Herzegovina, bring your tent. You can pitch your tent on public land throughout Bosnia & Herzegovina.
• Cook your own meals – Many hostels here include kitchen facilities, so if you want to save money, cook your own meals. It’s not glamorous but it’s cheap!
• Stay with a local – Staying with a local via Couchsurfing is a great way to not only save money but to meet a knowledgeable local. Just make sure to send your requests early as there are not a ton of hosts here.
• Walk everywhere – All of the major cities in Bosnia & Herzegovina are walkable, so skip the public transportation if you want to save a few extra dollars.
• Enjoy the free spaces – There are plenty of free parks as well as many free hiking trails around the country. Save your budget and enjoy the outdoors!
• Drink the tap water – Tap water within the cities is safe to drink, but not in the rural areas. Pick up a LifeStraw (a water bottle with a purifier) so you can cut down on your use of plastic bottles while saving money in the process.

Where to Stay in Bosnia & Herzegovina

Like many other countries in this part of Europe, Bosnia & Herzegovina only has hostel accommodation in the cities. In the smaller less popular areas, you will find B&B style accommodation or campsites. Here are some of my favorite places to stay in Bosnia & Herzegovina:

• Hostel Kucha (Sarajevo)
• Balkan Han Hostel (Sarajevo)
• Hostel Franz Ferdinand (Sarajevo)
• Villa Cardak (Mostar)
• Rooms Goa Mostar (Mostar)
• The Red Door Hostel Trebinje (Trebinje)

How to Get Around Bosnia & Herzegovina

Public transportation – Most towns in Bosnia & Herzegovina are walkable. While public transportation prices vary by city, you can expect to pay around 2 BAM for a one-way ticket on buses, trams, or trolleybuses.

Taxi – If you need to take a taxi, prices start at about 3 BAM and cost about 1.60 BAM for every additional kilometer. While affordable, they do add up so skip them if you can.

Bus – There is an extensive network of long-distance intercity and international buses. Between towns, it’s normally easy enough to wave down any bus. Reservations are sometimes necessary for overnight routes or at peak holiday times but not during the day. The biggest companies include:

• Centrotrans

A bus from Sarajevo to Mostar takes 2.5 hours and costs around 11 BAM, while Sarajevo to Trebinje takes nearly 10 hours and is about 40 BAM. Mostar to Jajce is a 4.5-hour journey and costs about 27 BAM. Try to book a day in advance when possible as seats do fill up quickly in the summer season.

It is worth noting that if you buy a round trip with the same company, you can save yourself up to 60% compared to buying two single tickets. Also, if you need to put luggage in the hold, companies will often charge you an additional 2-4 BAM. (It’s common in this region to charge for the luggage hold.)

Train – Trains do operate in Bosnia & Herzegovina, however, they are outdated and extremely slow. I do not recommend using them. Take the bus instead.

Flying – No budget airlines offer domestic flights within Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Car rental – Car rentals can be found for around 40 BAM per day for a multi-day rental. Renters must be at least 21 years old and have an International Driving Permit (IDP). For the best car rental prices, use Discover Cars .

When to Go to Bosnia & Herzegovina

In general, May through to October is the best time to visit Bosnia & Herzegovina as these are the warmest months. The temperature hovers around 31°C (87°F) and rarely drops below 17°C (62°F).

Even in the summer months, Bosnia & Herzegovina doesn’t get a ton of tourism traffic. A lot of people will take a day trip to Mostar from Croatia, but you don’t have to worry too much about overcrowding in the rest of the country.

Unlike other Mediterranean countries, Bosnia & Herzegovina doesn’t have a whole lot of coastal areas to enjoy. If you’re here mostly for hiking or sightseeing, the cooler spring/fall temperatures might suit you better.

Winters here can be harsh and they often last from November to March. Temperatures often drop below freezing, and snowfall is common. I’d skip a winter visit.

How to Stay Safe in Bosnia & Herzegovina

In Bosnia & Herzegovina, violent crime against tourists is rare. However, scams and pick-pocketing are common, usually on public transport and in the cities and especially around high-traffic areas in Sarajevo. Always keep an eye on your stuff and only take the cash you need for the day. You can read about common travel scams to avoid here.

If you want to go hiking, it’s essential you stick to marked trails only. Landmines can still be found here from the war so always stick to the trail.

Solo female travelers should generally feel safe here, however, the standard precautions apply (never leave your drink unattended at the bar, never walk home alone intoxicated, etc.).

If you experience an emergency, dial 122 for assistance.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• HostelPass – This new card gives you up to 20% off hostels throughout Europe. It’s a great way to save money. They’re constantly adding new hostels too. I’ve always wanted something like this and glad it finallt exists.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• The Man in Seat 61 – This website is the ultimate guide to train travel anywhere in the world. They have the most comprehensive information on routes, times, prices, and train conditions. If you are planning a long train journey or some epic train trip, consult this site.
• Rome2Rio – This website allows you to see how to get from point A to point B the best and cheapest way possible. It will give you all the bus, train, plane, or boat routes that can get you there as well as how much they cost.
• FlixBus – Flixbus has routes between 20 European countries with prices starting as low 5 EUR! Their buses include WiFi, electrical outlets, a free checked bag.
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Europe and continue planning your trip:

10 Scotland Road Trip Tips You Need to Know Before You Go

The Perfect 7-Day Croatia Itinerary

The 6 Best Hotels in Copenhagen

The 6 Best Hotels in Florence

The 7 Best Hotels in Madrid

The 6 Best Hotels in Vienna

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Enter your email and get planning cheatsheets including a step by step checklist, packing list, tips cheat sheet, and more so you can plan like a pro!

• Where To Stay
• Transportation
• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

Wander-Lush

Explore Bosnia & Herzegovina: The Ultimate Bosnia Travel Guide

• Europe / The Balkans

When you go to Sarajevo, what you experience is life. Mike Leigh

Why you’ll love Bosnia and Herzegovina

Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH for short) is often associated with loss and death. From the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand which set WWI in motion, to the Siege of Sarajevo and the Srebrenica massacre, BiH has long been viewed as a nation torn apart at the seams. But now more than ever, it’s equally a place of new beginnings and budding creativity – a place where you can feel life itself tingling on your skin.

In 1992, citizens voted in a monumental independence referendum and Bosnia and Herzegovina gained her independence. The dotted lines of autonomous republics, the intricate political system (often named the most complex in the world), and the very presence of the ‘and’ in the country’s name are a clue to the kind of diversity and contrasts you can expect today.

If there’s one thing I learned after five weeks travelling around BiH, it’s that the warmth of the people and the illustrious beauty of the landscape are the strongest uniting forces.

Bosnia travel essentials

Please note: Some of these links are affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more .

April/May or October/November (spring/fall shoulder seasons).

How long in Bosnia?

2 full days for Sarajevo; 5-7 days for the highlights; 10 days to see everything.

Daily budget

35-50 USD per person per day (mid-range hotel; local meals; bus fares; museum tickets).

Getting there

Fly into Sarajevo or Tuzla; drive/bus/taxi from any neighbouring country.

Visa-free for most passports (stay up to 90 days).

Getting around

Hire a car; use intercity buses and vans.

Where to stay

Hostels, family-run guesthouses or hotels.

Tours & experiences

Market tours, UNESCO sites and wild landscapes.

Things to do in Bosnia and Herzegovina

In Sarajevo , BiH’s capital city, the line where Asia stops and Europe begins (or is the other way around?) is literally drawn in the sand. A plaque on the pavement separates the Austro-Hungarian-built part of the city, with its market halls and plasterwork facades, from the Ottoman quarter, with its public fountains and singing minarets.

Sarajevo’s Old Bazaar , Bascarsija , is pure magic. As you dart between tea houses, carpet shops and Buregdzinicas (bakeries specialising in burek ), you move to the rhythm of tradesmen who still pound bronze with the same fervour as they did centuries ago.

As you cross the stone bridges in Mostar , Visegrad and Konjic , you begin to understand that not only is each one a proxy for a devastating chapter of Balkan history (which every traveller must take the time to learn about), it’s also a symbolic bridge between past, present and future.

From Jajce , the city with roaring waterfall at its centre to Pocitelj , an almost-abandoned Ottoman town, Banja Luka , the country’s second city to the sweet Trebinje ; between the Dinaric Alps , the Pliva Lakes and the ambling River Drina , Bosnia and Herzegovina has a way of making you feel alive.

Explore Bosnia and Herzegovina

Discover all the best things to do in Bosnia with my latest travel guides.

Sarajevo Through the Lens: 42 Magical Photos of Bosnia & Herzegovina’s Capital

How to Spend One Day in Mostar: 24 Hours in Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Most Captivating City

The Best Bosnian Food: 20 Delicious Things to Eat & Drink in Bosnia and Herzegovina

12 Things to do in Banja Luka, Bosnia & Herzegovina’s Second City (Republika Srpska)

12 Best Sarajevo Day Trips for History, Nature & Culture

5 Things I Learned on a Sarajevo Food Tour

Pliva Lakes & Watermills: A Guide to Visiting From Jajce

A Quick Guide to Jajce, Bosnia & Herzegovina’s Cascade City

Mostar to Pocitelj: A Complete Guide to Visiting the Ottoman-era Open Air Museum

An Epic Day Trip from Sarajevo to Visegrad, Borak Stecci and Mokra Gora

My bosnia favourites.

Via Dinarica Trail (Slovenia to Kosovo via BiH).

Must-eat meal

Tufahija (baked apple) with a Bosnian coffee.

local experience

Watching the sunset over Sarajevo from Bijela Tabija.

best souvenir

A copper tray or coffee pot from the Sarajevo Old Bazaar.

• International edition
• Australia edition
• Europe edition

Bosnia and surrounding region still heading for crisis, says top official

International community’s high representative calls for diplomatic engagement from US and Europe

The top international official in Bosnia has said that the Serb separatist threat to re-establish their own army had receded for now, but the country and surrounding region were still heading for crisis without substantial diplomatic engagement from the US and Europe.

Christian Schmidt, a German former minister serving as the international community’s high representative to Bosnia-Herzegovina, said the Serb separatist leader, Milorad Dodik, had been persuaded by regional leaders to suspend his plans to pull Serb soldiers out of the Bosnian national army and reconstitute a Bosnian Serb force.

“We see after a lot of talks, including those in the neighbourhood, he got the message that nobody would accept a way which leads to an increasing potential of political and – hopefully not – military conflict,” Schmidt told the Guardian in an interview in Washington.

“I do not actually see a danger of war,” Schmidt added, saying there were fewer heavy weapons in the country compared with in 1992 when the Bosnian war broke out. “Fortunately, there are too few military assets available,” he said.

However, Schmidt argued that Dodik’s separatist rhetoric and his vows to sever the legal and tax system in the Serb-run half of the country were driving the country towards a severe crisis.

“These self-fulfilling tactics have come to a point where he [Dodik] cannot go back without losing face,” he said. “My impression is we are very, very close to this point, and this needs a very clear answer from the international community.”

“I would say the challenge of such a dissolution of Bosnia and Herzegovina is that this can not be limited to Bosnia and Herzegovina,” Schmidt said.

Schmidt was in Washington for talks with the Biden foreign policy team about the threat of the collapse of the Dayton peace agreement which ended the war in 1995. His aides were encouraged that the national security adviser, Jake Sullivan, made an unexpected appearance at their meeting with White House officials, which they saw as a signal the Biden administration would pay closer, higher-level attention to developments in Bosnia.

After a visit to the region by the state department counsellor, Derek Chollet , who wrote the state department history of the Dayton accord, and in light of Dodik’s threats, US officials have said they are reassessing Washington’s policy in Bosnia, which until now has been low-key and focused on electoral reform.

“I’m very happy about this because I see that in recent years there was no strategy, because there was the impression not only in the US, but in the European Union, but things would go [peacefully],” Schmidt said. He stressed that, in his tour of western capitals, he was not asking for extra international peacekeepers but rather, unified diplomatic engagement.

Kurt Bassuener, co-founder of the Democratization Policy Council , a Berlin-based thinktank, argued Schmidt was being overly optimistic on the chances of avoiding violence, and said there was more than enough military hardware in the country to fuel another conflict.

“I think he’s actually quite complacent,” Bassuener said. “The bottom line is there’s more than enough equipment for very bad things to happen.”

Schmidt’s position is under diplomatic pressure. Moscow opposed his appointment and does not recognise his authority. Russia and China both insisted that every mention of the high representative was stripped from a recent UN security council resolution on Bosnia. Dodik has refused to meet him, questioning his legitimacy.

But Schmidt, who has support from the rest of the international community, said he would not be forced out. “I will stay, and I will [fulfil] my responsibility,” he said.

• Bosnia and Herzegovina
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England’s Euro 2024 warm-up matches vs Bosnia and Iceland: When, where and what time?

E ngland will play two friendly games as part of their final preparations for this summer’s Euro 2024, with next week’s matches their last on home soil before they travel to Germany. 

It will be the last chance for players to impress Gareth Southgate as he finalises his plans for England’s Euros campaign.

When do England play Bosnia and Herzegovina and where?

England play Bosnia and Herzegovina on Monday, June 3. The match will be played at St James’ Park, home to Newcastle United. It will be the Three Lions’ first match at St James’ Park since 2005.

What time does England vs Bosnia and Herzegovina start?

England’s match with Bosnia and Herzegovina will kick-off at 7.45pm BST.

When do England play Iceland and where?

England’s final Euro 2024 warm-up match will be against Iceland on Friday, June 7, at Wembley Stadium.

What time does England vs Iceland start?

The match with Iceland will start at 7.45pm.

What channel are the matches on TV?

England’s Euro 2024 warm-up matches will be shown live on Channel 4. Alternatively, you can bookmark this page and return to follow the games with our live blogs, which will include commentary and analysis from our team of reporters at the grounds.

When it comes to the actual Euros, England matches will be spread across BBC and ITV.

England squad for Euro 2024 warm-up matches

The England team for these two friendlies will come from Southgate’s provisional Euros squad, announced after the conclusion of the Premier League season. Notable omissions included Marcus Rashford, Jordan Henderson and Raheem Sterling.

Southgate will submit his final Euros squad following the matches and ahead of Uefa’s June 7 deadline.

When do the Euros start?

Euro 2024 starts on Friday, June 14, with hosts Germany playing Scotland. England play their first match two days later, on the Sunday, against Serbia. The full list of England’s Euro 2024 fixtures can be viewed here

Euro 2024 predictor

Pick your winner

England vs Bosnia and Herzegovina head-to-head

This will be the first senior meeting between the two teams.

England vs Iceland head-to-head

The two teams have faced off five times before, with the last coming in Nov 2020 for a behind-closed-doors Nations League match at Wembley. England won 4-0 with Declan Rice and Phil Foden (2) scoring for their country for the first time. Mason Mount got the other goal. England also won their other Nations League match two months previous, thanks to Raheem Sterling’s penalty.

Before that came one of Iceland’s most memorable results to date, beating the Three Lions 2-1 to knock them out of Euro 2016, in what was Roy Hodgson’s last match as England manager.

It was Iceland’s first and only victory over England, after the Three Lions also won 6-1 in 2004 and drew 1-1 in a 1982 friendly.

Predictions

England fans will be hoping to wave the team off to the Euros off the back of two resounding victories, and they should get them.

• England to beat Bosnia and Herzegovina 4-0
• England to beat Iceland 2-0

Latest odds

• England to beat Bosnia and Herzegovina – 1/5
• Bosnia and Herzegovina win – 16/1
• England to beat Iceland – 1/6
• Iceland win – 16/1
• Draw – 13/2

Odds correct as of May 28

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