gourmet traveller oysters

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Oysters Three Ways

Preparation and  cooking   30 minutes, bloody mary oyster shots.

1 cup tomato juice â…“ cup vodka 1 stick celery, cut into 8 lengths 1 tsp Tabasco sauce 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 8 oysters on half shell 1 fresh small red chilli, sliced thinly

1 Place 1 ½ tablespoons of the tomato juice and 2 teaspoons of vodka in each of the eight shot glasses.

2 Place a baton of celery into each glass; season with a dash of both sauces then a little pinch of salt and pepper.

3 Top oysters with chilli; serve with shots.

Cucumber, Ginger & Sesame Oysters

2 tbsp Japanese soy sauce 1 tsp sesame oil 1 tbsp mirin 1 tsp white (granulated) sugar 8 oysters on half shell 2 tsp pickled ginger, cut into long thin strips 1 mini cucumber (Qukes), cut into long=, thin strips 1 tsp black sesame seeds

1 Stir soy sauce, oil, mirin and sugar in a small saucepan over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Allow to cool before dressing the oysters, then top with ginger, cucumber and sprinkle with seeds.

Passionfruit & Lime Oysters

1 tbsp passionfruit pulp (1 passionfruit) 1 makrut lime leaf, shredded finely 1 tbsp lime juice 8 oysters on half shell micro coriander leaves

1 Combine passionfruit pulp, lime leafand juice in a small bowl.

2 Top oysters with passionfruit mixture then coriander.

2013 Swift Vintage Cuvée, Orange, A$53

Some would argue that oysters are best served unadorned but this compelling trio turns the notion on its head. The complexity of the three quite different recipes calls for an equally multilayered wine and the 2013 Swift is just that. It's a chardonnay-led blend with pinot noir providing structure and drive. The Bloody Mary shot needs all that power, while the Asian-influenced oysters with a spike of ginger pick up on the energy of the chardonnay component. The passionfruit and lime dressing is likewise in sync with the chardonnay's vigour and panache.

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19 Oyster Recipes That Rival Eating Them Raw

By The Bon Appétit Staff

You don’t really need a Rolodex of oyster recipes. Just slurp them raw! Douse them in lemon juice and knock them back like tiny briny shots of bliss! While this method is all well and good, frying, grilling, or stewing oysters takes them to a whole other dimension. We’re talking about broiled oysters dusted with buttery, garlic-laced breadcrumbs. These crispy, golden saltine-crusted beauties . Or this teetering, texturally sublime fried B.O.L.T (bacon, oyster, lettuce, tomato) sandwich. Whether you’re team raw or not, these oyster recipes will help your mollusks shine bright like the ocean jewels they are.

Clark's Oyster Bar's Cioppino

This cioppino recipe uses bottled clam juice, a smart shortcut to a robust broth. 

Roast Oysters

“The warmness of the brown butter balances the brininess of seafood,” says chef Vivian Howard.

The BLT Oyster Stuffing

Adding oysters and bacon incorporates textural contrasts and bold flavors.

Oysters Casino

This recipe, part of our Throwback Thanksgiving feature , is from our 1970 issue. Instead of green pepper, add some heat by making this with jalapeño.

Baguette, Smoked Oyster, and Pancetta Stuffing

If you like stuffing with smoked oysters, you’ll like it even more with tart lemons on top.

Oysters with Finger Lime and Ginger Mignonette

In place of vinegar, finger limes give this mignonette its zing (pulp from regular limes works just as well).

B.O.L.T (Bacon, Oyster, Lettuce, Tomato)

As if an oyster po’boy and a BLT had a baby; this appropriately messy sandwich achieves the ideal texture-and-temperature contrast when the oysters are still warm from the fryer.

Broiled Oysters with Garlic Breadcrumbs

Enjoy this dish alongside homemade soda bread!

Creamy Oyster and Watercress Stew

The oysters will plump slightly in the hot soup and take on a creamy but firm consistency; if overcooked, they’ll become rubbery.

Grilled Oysters

Choose oysters with a deep, round shape—they're better at capturing the oyster liquor and any melted butter than flat ones.

Fried Oysters with Bacon, Garlic, and Sage

Holding the raw oysters in the rice-flour dredge is a genius do-ahead trick, allowing you to shuck and coat the oysters hours ahead of fry time.

Sourdough Toasts with Mushrooms and Oysters

It's exactly what it sounds like: buttery richness piled on crunchy toasts.

Fried P&J Oysters Amandine

Dipping the oysters in egg whites makes the fried coating especially light and crisp.

Oysters with Brown Sugar–Chipotle Butter

If you’re not a raw oyster person, this buttery, broiled treatment should be in your repertoire.

Grandma Flaxel's Crispy Fried Oysters

Shucked medium oysters fried in a dusting of pulsed saltines.

Tomales Bay Oysters Rockefeller

Make the filling ahead of time and you'll need only a few minutes to go from shucking to eating.

Oyster Tacos

Here, the theme is Louisiana po'boys by way of Texas.

Oyster-Cornbread Stuffing

Make or buy a savory cornbread to use in this luxurious oyster stuffing recipe; the kind you use will determine how much broth you'll need to moisten it.

Grilled Oysters with Bacon and Cayenne Butter

These grilled oysters get an extra dose of smokiness, thanks to bacon-infused butter.

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5 Delicious Ways To Cook Oysters

Purists may shuck and slurp oysters straight from the shell, but there are many delicious ways to capitalize on the possibilities of this versatile bivalve.

Published quarterly, Coastal Living reaches consumers who love life on the coast. Whether they are living right on the water or are dreaming of their next beach escape, these passionate consumers want the coastal lifestyle in their home, travel, and every other aspect of their lives.

Our Tips On Cooking Oysters

How to grill oysters, how to fry oysters, how to broil oysters, how to bake or roast oysters, how to steam oysters.

Antonis Achilleos; Prop Stylist: Christine Keely; Food Stylist: Chelsea Zimmer

Roasted over an open flame, broiled with garlic butter, or served raw with a spritz of lemon—there are countless ways to enjoy an oyster . Cooking oysters is guaranteed to draw out new textures and flavors, like in the recipes below. But first, there are a few rules to follow when cooking oysters.

If you're new to cooking oysters, we have some tips that apply no matter your cooking method:

• Fresh oysters have the best texture and flavor. You might get away with frozen or canned in a soup or stew, but otherwise you'll want to purchase fresh. Also, buy oysters that smell fresh and are stored on ice.
• Before you start cooking, check for oyster shells that have opened up. Unless they move when you touch them, those oysters have died and should be thrown out.
• Farmed oysters can be eaten any time of year . Wild oysters spawn in summer and tend to be unpleasant eating.
• Oysters can get chewy or tough when overcooked. Follow your recipe carefully to make sure you don't overcook them.

Shuck your oysters and put them on a grill heated to 450 degrees, either on a baking sheet or shell side down on the grate. Top each oyster with a pat of butter and a sprinkle of chopped herbs (parsley, tarragon, chives, or even cilantro), then close the grill or cover with tin foil. Cook five minutes, or until the oysters are simmering in their shells. Remove the oysters with tongs and serve with crackers.

To prepare perfect fried oysters (with a crispy crust and a custardy middle), heat 3 inches of canola oil to 360 degrees in a Dutch oven. Dredge shucked oysters in seasoned flour, then a whisked mixture of egg, water, and buttermilk, and finally, crushed potato chips, such as Zapp's Voodoo . Fry the oysters for two to three minutes until golden, then remove and drain on paper towels. Serve warm with horseradish remoulade, pickled okra tartar sauce, or your favorite hot sauce.

Try this recipe: Fried Oysters

Oysters broiled in their shells and topped with buttery breadcrumbs look beautiful and taste divine. Heat the broiler, then mix melted butter, toasted breadcrumbs, lemon zest, chopped herbs (chervil, parsley, and tarragon) and distribute evenly over oysters on the half shell. Broil on a baking sheet for four minutes until the breadcrumbs toast and turn brown. Serve with lemon wedges.

Try this recipe: Broiled Oysters With Tasso Breadcrumbs

Roasted oysters can be prepared with a quick turn in the oven, or as The Grey's Mashama Bailey in Savannah, Georgia, does, under wet burlap on a grill. Either way, top with a garlic butter laden with fresh herbs. Arrange 2 dozen oysters on a baking sheet or grill top, and cook at 450-degrees for 10 minutes, or until the oysters open. Spoon 2 teaspoons of garlic butter on each oyster, and dig in.

Try this recipe: Baked Oysters with Bacon, Greens, and Parmesan

If you're planning a neighborhood block party, we've got lots of tips on how to hold your own oyster roast . But on a smaller scale, you can steam your oysters on the stove. Place the oysters in a single layer in a steamer basket and then cover with a lid (the water should be low enough that it won't touch—you don't want to boil your oysters). Steam for about five minutes, then place on a platter to rest. Shuck the oysters, then serve with lemon wedges and hot sauce.

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Watch Michelin Chefs Cook Oysters

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Photo © StockFood I  Isolda Delgado Mora

Our  Michelin Chefs Cook   series puts the spotlight on ingredients handled in expert hands, highlighting the beauty of simple seasonal produce and pantry basics, to the heady heights of luxury ingredients and prime raw materials.

This week we've selected oysters, the salt-water bivalve molluscs that pop a fresh and salty punch and boast a rags-to-riches history.

Purists will enjoy their oysters fresh, just as they are, but a  mignonette  sauce suits others just as well. Cooked, there's a whole arsenal of techniques that lend themselves to these sweet and meaty shellfish, whether they are smoked or boiled, baked or fried.

These nutritious powerhouses with aphrodisiac qualities once fed the poor in the 19th century, but now grace Michelin-starred tables around the world.

See what can be done with these sought-after delicacies in the hands of Michelin-starred chefs, from two-Michelin-starred French chef  Hélène Darroze,  to   the Basque country's  Eneko Atxa.

Oysters star in four dishes at three-Michelin-star restaurants

First up, an oyster, goat cheese and seaweed dish from the three-Michelin-star De Librije in The Netherlands. Amazing flat oysters with avocado, horse radish and eel follow at 3-Michelin-star Hof Van Cleve in Belgium, then it's  Sergio Herman  preparing his famous oysters with miso and citrus at three-Michelin-star restaurant Oud Sluis in The Netherlands. French chef  Arnaud Donckele  presents the final act, when he prepares oyster three ways at three-Michelin-star La Vague d'Or in Saint-Tropez.

Hélène Darroze creates oyster tartar, and caviar

The French chef showcases her signature dish of oyster tartar, Oscietra caviar and coco bean velouté from her restaurant Hélène Darroze at the Connaught in the heart of London’s Mayfair. 

Simon Hulstone creates a rock oyster and apple granite 

Michelin star chef Simon Hulstone from Elephant restaurant and bar in Torquay, Devon, creates a simple fresh dish of rock oysters with apple and sorrel granite and Nepalese pepper using a Robot Coupe. 

Gordon Ramsay Dives for Oysters In Thailand 

Gordon Ramsay gets stuck in fishing for super sized oysters in his inimitable enthusiastic style. A local fisherman shows him the ropes as they dive down three meters to the river bed with just a chisel and an axe. Back on dry land he cooks up a hot and tasty oyster dipping sauce in a local home.

Stephen Harris creates oyster, sole and cream cheese ice cream 

Michelin star chef Stephen Harris from  The Sportsman in Seasalter, Kent, cooks three of his award-winning dishes; Oysters, Slip Soles and Cream Cheese Ice-Cream. 

Eneko Atxa creates a recipe of Oyster tartar and oyster gelée

Watch chef Eneko Atxa from 3-Michelin star Azurmendi in the Basque country, as he whistles through a very technical, yet equally beautiful, recipe of oyster tartar and oyster gelée. 

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As our wintry coastal waters yield up their treasures, Helen Hokin prises open the secrets of Britain’s precious pearly kings with recipes by Linda Tubby

‘Possibly the best thing to come out of Britain,’ enthused the Roman general (and, briefly, emperor) Vitellius on tasting oysters from the Essex Blackwater River during the first century AD. He would summon slaves bearing snow-lined baskets of delectable Colchester and Whitstable Native oysters across Europe to his HQ, where he would pop them with an abandon usually reserved for grapes. Throughout the ages, the oyster has fed rich and poor alike. A glut in the late 1200s saw prices plummet to two pence a gallon, making them an affordable food even for the least well off; in Elizabethan times they were a popular staple on fish-eating days, while fine diners used them as palate cleansers between courses. In the late 1800s it seems the entire western world was in the grip of an oyster-eating frenzy; from the Thames estuary to New York, everyone was slurping cold oysters from the half shell.

Vitellius was right about our Native flat oysters; the smooth, pinky-coloured, fan-shaped shells loaded with firm, delicate meat are the glory of Britain and the envy of the rest of the oyster-producing world. According to the UK Shellfish Association, in 2007 producers enjoyed the highest demand ever recorded for the pearly aristocrats of the sea. Both Colchester and Whitstable Natives (as opposed to the long, grey-shelled Pacific variety also cultivated in the UK) have been thriving for millennia in the plankton-rich waters of the Mersea Island creeks off Essex and along the Whitstable flats in Kent. Their unbeatable taste and texture keeps business buoyant. For the past 200 years, for example, the Haward family has harvested a 120-hectare patch encompassing the historic Blackwater River and Mersea Island creeks.

Today’s oyster boats have engines rather than sails and the dredging up of oysters is mechanised rather than manual, but other than that, the process of taking these prize molluscs from sea to market has barely changed. It works like this: after four years in their natural habitat, Native oysters are dredged from the deep salty water and relocated to shallow, marshy creeks. They’re re-laid for at least another year on glorious mud, fattening up and filtering the nutrient-rich water that gives them their unique flavour. Colchester Natives are slightly salty with a unique iodine note. Their marshy home lends some of them a natural green hue – which leaves the French the same colour with envy (they have been known to introduce a similar tinge to their own Belon Natives by means of artificial colourings). Finally they are dredged, hand-sorted, purified in clear water for 48 hours and sent to market.

Just along the coastline the equally delectable Whitstable Native is less saline than its Colchester counterpart with a uniform whiteness – it’s entirely subjective, but some Brits prefer them that colour.

The Pacific is Britain’s adopted oyster. Cultivated widely around our coastline, it was introduced when the Native twice suffered near extinction – once from harsh frost in 1963, and again in 1980 when bonamiasis, an oyster-killing disease, almost wiped it out. Pacifics are hardier and more resistant to disease, as well as being faster growers. Although their flesh is a touch less firm and their taste not as subtly mineral-like, they are a perfectly acceptable (and affordable) alternative. The current going rate for a dozen Pacifics averages £12, while the same number of Natives weigh in at £20. Natives can also be hard to come by whereas Pacifics are readily available.

Pacifics are harvested in Essex, Kent, Poole, south Devon, Cornwall and abundantly on the west coast of Scotland. Unlike Natives, which might take all of seven years to reach optimum growth and flavour, Pacifics are ripe and ready after just three. They keep our restaurants and markets brimming. And as for not eating oysters when there isn’t an ‘r’ in the month, by some ancient law Native flat oysters cannot be sold during the months of May, June, July and August when they are spawning. But for those of us who, like Vitellius, just can’t get enough, Pacifics (because they are grown artificially) are available all year round.

Whichever variety you choose, there is only one way to open them – carefully. Hold the oyster, cup-side down, in the palm of your hand. Point the hinged edge towards you. Using an oyster knife slide the blade between the join where the two shells meet and gently prise and twist. Run the knife between the inside edge of the shells to cut through the muscle holding them together. Slide the knife under the oyster meat to separate it from its shell. Keep the shell level all the time, or risk watching its precious juices run away. Eat them as soon as you open them. Never store them in water or in too cold a fridge, as they will die.

A dozen oysters on a plate of ice is about as good as it gets. Have a glass of champagne, Guinness or Chablis at the ready, as well as your favourite accompaniment – the Victorians liked the fashionable exoticism of cayenne pepper and the Edwardians went for shallot vinegar. However, I reckon a certain Roman emperor and his countrymen had it right – a simple squeeze of lemon is the most elegant way to go. After all those years spent plumping up on the seabed, to swallow the sumptuous morsels without savouring them is bordering on sinful. Hold for a second or two between the tongue and the roof of the mouth and crush, gently, until the rush of briny juice floods your taste buds with the tang of the sea.

Citrus-marinated sea trout with samphire and crispy oysters

Hot oysters with cold cucumber and vodka jelly, and spicy merguez sausages, pork with garlic and oyster sauce, get premium access to all the latest content online.

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Ingredients

Grilled oysters with spicy tarragon butter.

Bobby Flay tops his oysters with a blend of butter, tarragon, and hot sauce, then returns them to the grill so the butter melts into little pools in the shells.

Bobby Flay owns and operates Bobby's Burger Palace, Bobby's Burgers, and Amalfi. He debuted on the Food Network in 1994, since starring on Beat Bobby Flay , Boy Meets Grill , Bobby Flay's Barbecue Addiction , and The Flay List . He's known for opening Mesa Grill, which was successful for 22 years in New York City.

2 sticks (1/2 pound) unsalted butter, softened

3 tablespoons chopped tarragon

2 tablespoons hot sauce

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 dozen medium to large oysters, such as Gulf Coast or Bluepoint

Light a grill. In a food processor, pulse the butter with the tarragon, hot sauce, salt and pepper until blended. Transfer the tarragon butter to a sheet of plastic wrap and roll it into a 2-inch-thick log. Refrigerate the butter until slightly firm, about 15 minutes. Slice the butter into 36 pats.

Place the oysters on the hot grill, flat-side up. Cover the grill and cook until the oysters open, about 5 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the oysters to a platter, trying to keep the liquor inside. Quickly remove the top shells and loosen the oysters from the bottom shells. Top each oyster with a pat of tarragon butter and return the oysters to the grill. Cover the grill and cook until the butter is mostly melted and the oysters are hot, about 1 minute. Serve right away.

The tarragon butter can be refrigerated for 5 days.

Suggested Pairing

Oregon's cool climate often results in Chardonnays with firm minerality and appealing spice, a good pairing for these tarragon oysters.

Related Articles

A slurp-worthy guide to Merimbula's oyster trail

Carla Grossetti

Sub-Editor & Journalist

07 February 2024

The briny liquid contained in just-shucked Merimbula oysters is like the Champagne of the sea. Gain a new appreciation of this delicacy along the Sapphire Coast Oyster Merroir Tasting Trail.

Building an itinerary around Merimbula  oysters means you can take in more of the territory by default. Merimbula seafood is the real deal and something you can experience everywhere from the Sapphire Coast Oyster Trail  to local bars and restaurants  and rustic oyster shacks overlooking the estuaries. Worth noting is the fact that Merimbula oysters reflect the quality of the pristine waters of Merimbula Lake, where the Thaua people of the Yuin nation have long been the Traditional Custodians of the land.

Whether you’re on a road trip around the NSW South Coast  or on a  guided tour, here’s where to get your fix of fresh Merimbula oysters and seafood.

Taste fresh-as-can-be oysters on the Sapphire Coast. (Image: David Rogers Photography)

The Oyster Barn at Merimbula Gourmet Oysters

There’s nothing fancy about this farm gate in Merimbula, which gets a guernsey above as one of the must-visit oyster farms near Merimbula on the South Coast. But The Oyster Barn  deserves special mention as a destination for lunch, as it offers everything a seafood lover dreams of, namely the very best fresh oysters.

The Oyster Barn delivers an unforgettable farmgate experience for oyster lovers. (Image: David Rogers Photography)

Order the signature seafood platter piled high with delights such as prawns, oysters and scallops, and settle in for the arvo over a brew or two.

Address: 49 Oyster Trak, Millingandi

Broadwater Oysters

The best way to experience  Broadwater Oysters is by opting for the Tide-to-Table tour, which offers a trifecta of experiences. There’s a farm tour, where you will learn all about commercial oyster farming. A master class that breaks down the process of shucking the shellfish. And then, finally, an opportunity to slurp down a dozen of the best Sydney Rock oyster specimens at a table overlooking the pristine waters of Lake Pambula. You can also taste the merroir of Broadwater Oysters in situ on a specialty tour with Navigate Expeditions . The Kayak and Shuck experience on Pambula Lake is one of the best things to do in Merimbula.

Join a farm-to-table tour at Broadwater Oysters. (Image: David Rogers Photography)

Address: Shed 1/52 Landing Road, Broadwater

Wonbyn Rock Oysters

Kel and Caroline Henry are the husband-and-wife team behind Wonboyn Rock Oysters , located on the banks of beautiful Wonbyn Lake on the Sapphire Coast. You will find the couple, most likely wearing rubber boots and bibs, pootling about on their punts and working the chain-mail tumblers that are barnacled with bivalve molluscs.

Find Wonboyn Rock Oysters on the banks of Wonbyn Lake on the Sapphire Coast. (Image: David Rogers Photography)

It’s a labour of love as the oysters take about three years to reach maturity. These are some of Australia’s most prized oysters, so head here during the harvest period to get the most out of your tour.

Book a tour during harvest season to try some of Australia’s most prized oysters. (Image: David Rogers Photography)

Address: Myrtle Cove, Near the Wonboyn Lake Boat Ramp

Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tour

A briny breeze will follow you around Pambula Lake when you’re motoring out to the oyster leases on a punt captained by the inimitable Captain Sponge.  Brett Weingarth, aka Captain Sponge, has a lifetime of farming experience and is one of the stars of the annual EAT Merimbula festival.

Motor out to the oyster leases on Pambula Lake onboard Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tour. (Image: Destination NSW)

Launch yourself headfirst into one of the on-the-water Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tours  from the foreshore of Pambula Lake. It is against the backdrop of the stunning Pambula River Mouth that you will learn the secrets behind successful oyster husbandry and sample the world-famous Sydney rock oyster.

Indulge in Sydney rock oysters during the tour. (Image: Destination NSW)

Address : Landing Road, Broadwater

Wheeler’s Seafood Restaurant and Oyster Bar

The Sapphire Coast’s world-famous Oyster Merroir Tasting Trail  entices oyster lovers to explore Merimbula’s pristine natural environment. While there are a multitude of things to do in Merimbula , tasting oysters at the lagoons and lakes where they are farmed, has to be up there with the very best ways to experience NSW’s South Coast . Purchase oysters unopened to take back to your Airbnb in Merimbula  or dine in the beautiful on-site venue, one of the best restaurants in Merimbula .

Slurp on world-class oysters at Wheelers Seafood Restaurant. (Image: David Rogers Photography)

Address : 162 Arthur Kaine Drive, Pambula

Tathra Oysters

You are more than likely to find oyster farmers knee-deep in the water when you arrive at Nelson Lagoon, which is surrounded by a mess of trees within Mimosa Rocks National Park. Visit the ‘shellar door’ at Tathra Oysters  between December and June to learn more about the merroir that defines the oysters grown in the pristine waterway.

Scoop up a handful of Tathra Oysters. (Image: David Rogers Photography)

The oysters produced by this family business are regarded as some of the best in the world and are only sold in prime condition. The Rodely family have been farming here for more than three decades. Order the oysters opened or unopened.

The Rodely family have been oyster farming for over 30 years. (Image: David Rogers Photography)

Address : 1 Reservoir St, Tathra

Wapengo Rocks

It’s a good look to practise the pronunciation of Wapengo (it’s Wop And Go) before you arrive at Wapengo Rocks looking like an absolute gumby in your Thai fisherman pants.

Wapengo Lake produces some of the best rock oysters. (Image: David Rogers Photography)

Wapengo Rocks was the first oyster farm to be certified organic in Australia. And while owner Shane Buckley’s farm isn’t open to the public, this stretch of the Sapphire Coast is worth a look – and you can taste Wapengo Oysters at Mimosa Wines. Merimbula Fresh Seafoods also stocks some of the best and freshest Merimbula seafood on offer.

Taste the goods for yourself at Mimosa Wines. (Image: David Rogers Photography)

Address : 3 Alice St, Merimbula

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This French Oyster is hitting the G Spot

French oyster company gillardeau takes branding to new heights as the first in the world to laser its logo on shells..

[dropcap size=small]P[/dropcap]icking a funky name for an oyster to attract diners’ attention – here’s looking at you, Naked Cowboy – is nothing new. But investing close to five million euros (S$7.6 million) in laser technology and machines to stamp an oyster is.

That is what French oyster company Gillardeau is doing to counter molluscs making their rounds around the globe using its name. The French family-run company has been farming oysters for over 100 years.

It was during the Christmas season three years back that fourth- generation owners Thierry and Veronique Gillardeau discovered oysters farmed in New Zealand were being passed off as Gillardeau in parts of Europe, Dubai, Jakarta and China.

A genuine Gillardeau oyster should have “a full shell, a pristine white lining, and taste like sugar and salt together”, says Veronique. “I realised something was wrong when we started receiving fewer orders from customers, especially over Christmas when demand is usually very high.”

She estimates that the company sells nearly 2,000 tonnes a year. France produces about 130,000 tonnes annually, though recent years have seen production dip to 80,000 tonnes, due to changes in natural conditions. The country’s output makes up nearly 90 per cent of oyster production in Europe.

To counter the problem, the Gillardeaus invented the process of branding their oysters by putting the company’s logo on the shells. “The first idea was to put a microchip in the oyster flesh, but that didn’t work,” says Veronique, who adds that the lasering does not affect the taste of the oyster.

The first batch to have their shells branded with the letter “G” within a circle was produced in late 2014. It takes only a second to laser four shells, making it easy for the company to mark all its oysters this way. They are quickly packed and sent off by 120 ready staff. Given the mileage Gillardeau gets from its branding exercise, the investment in the laser technology was a worthwhile one.

“We put a lot of effort into controlling the level of bacteria in our oysters, and we can’t stand copies that might result in health problems, when other people don’t check their products,” says Veronique.

“It was not just our reputation in danger, but also our clients’,” she continues. “When suppliers put a price tag on the wrong products, it becomes a problem for them too.”

In March 2009, former editor of Boston website Daily Candy Erin Byers Murray traded in her laptop to trawl about in mud. “The saltwater air hit me hard and fast,” reads a line in her book Shucked: Life on a New England Oyster Farm . The hardest part was keeping up physically with the rest of the crew. “My muscles screamed,” wrote the urbanite. “I was a wreck from all the standing, lifting and constant motion.”

Murray’s vivid account is just the tip of the iceberg. Growing an oyster takes years, starting from spat cultivation in carefully controlled conditions to point of harvest. A Gillardeau takes five years. The company cultivates its crop in different bays scattered around Portugal, Spain and Ireland, before allowing the molluscs to mature under controlled salinity and temperatures at its sites near La Rochelle and Ile d’Oleron in France’s west coast.

“Being in the business for so long, we know the peak season of oysters in Portugal or Ireland. If the waters and conditions in Ireland are not so good one year, we can move the oysters there to Portugal,” says Veronique.

The care that goes into the cultivation of Gillardeau oysters is what earned them the reputation of being the Hermes equivalent among molluscs. The flesh of a Gillardeau “speciale” is plump and sweet, with a tinge of salinity that comes from the properties of the basins used to store the oysters in their final stage of maturity.

The price of one at Greenwood Fish Market and Bistro here is $8, twice that of other oysters on the menu like the French fine de claires and Australia’s Coffin Bay.

“The Gillardeau oysters are sold at that price, due to their base cost being higher than that other oysters,” says Alan Lee, Greenwood’s chef- owner. “It is an additional cost for the company to conduct quality checks and brand its products, which would translate to end-consumer cost.”

To be sure, demand for the prized barnacles has been steadily increasing. According to a report by the Agri-Food and Veterinary Authority of Singapore , Singapore imported 858 tonnes of live oysters in 2014, a marked increase from just 469 tonnes in 2007. And diners today are more attuned to the differences in oyster brands.

“Diners now are very educated and have travelled a lot,” says Polo Seah, head chef of the Humpback oyster bar in Bukit Pasoh Road. “We often get asked if we carry certain brands, like Kumamoto from Japan.”

It’s no wonder then that certain suppliers and restaurants have been quick to capitalise on an established name like Gillardeau to score a quick buck.

Here in Singapore, the measures taken by Gillardeau to brand its oysters sit well with premium food supplier Indoguna . “It is good to identify the brand or farm of oysters, so suppliers know for sure what we are getting,” says a spokesman for the brand. “It’s not just about the name. It’s about building trust in the relationship too.”

Says Lee: “The etching on every shell is an assurance to us as restaurateurs of their quality. It makes us confident that each Gillardeau oyster we get is of top quality, which will translate to our food consistency.”

But for Indra Kantono, owner of Humpback, being assured of brand authenticity isn’t enough. “It is important for consumers to not just look at the brand name, but to really discover and understand the provenance – how the oysters are grown, the methods used, and the care that the farmers put in when growing these oysters,” says Kantono.

Michelle Mok, owner of local oyster farm Sea Farmers @ Ubin , agrees. “I think (putting the logo on the oysters) is a nice move by Gillardeau. But branding is not just about using a laser to mark your oysters, it’s about what you promise as a brand to your customers and living up to that,” says Mok.

Sea Farmers produces about 10,000 oysters monthly, and supplies high-end restaurant The Black Swan here.

Ultimately, Kantono and Mok advocate the power of knowledge.

“We want to know which bay of water the oysters come from, the growing method, and the people who grow them,” says Kantono.

“More than just a branded oyster, what we want to deliver is the story of the growers and a guaranteed assurance of the product that we can vouch for.”

The mark of a quality oyster is a hard shell that won’t chip when shucked, and plump flesh. We examine different farming methods and oysters produced from each.

01 Beach-grown  Of all methods, growing oysters on sandy bays takes the longest time to bear fruit, but produces the best-tasting flesh. The baby oysters are protected from predators like crabs and birds by fenced-up pens, and subjected to strong winds and crashing waves that cause the bivalves to clamp down tight in reaction. The rock- solid shells and robust meaty flesh at the end of four to five years is an oyster fan’s dream.

02 Bag-to-beach  Pampering and tough love are dealt out in equal measure here. Oyster spat is placed in mesh bags along the beach. These protect them from predators, as well as bad weather conditions for near three years. The molluscs are then taken out of the bags and left to harden on the beach for another three to four months before harvest.

03 Suspension-culture  Oysters grown by the suspended bag or basket method inevitably have thin, brittle shells as they have been cosseted in lantern-like containers in deep waters, protected from weather elements and predators all their lives. Of the three methods, this yields the quickest results, turning out deep-cupped oysters with light sweet flesh in two years.

• French Oyster
• Greenwood Fish Market and Bistro
• Humpback oyster bar
• Luxury Food
• Sea Farmers @ Ubin
• The Black Swan
• Veronique Gillardeau

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Texas Gourmet Style Oysters Rockefeller with Bacon, Jalapeno and Hollandaise

This is a traditional dish that I decided to change up a bit to my taste. All of the flavors go together well and the spinach makes a great tasting base as well.

INGREDIENTS 18 large oysters shucked and set aside out of the shell 6 slices of Applewood bacon 2 lemons, quartered for serving 2 cups of steamed and reduced baby spinach 1 1/2 cups of hollandaise sauce, warmed and covered in a double boiler 1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper 2 teaspoons Texas Gourmet’s Sidewinder Searing Spice 3 large fresh jalapeños, cored and sliced into 1/8” thick rings 1 large metal muffin pan Heavy Duty foil 3/4 cup of melted butter, or Extra virgin olive oil

PREPARATION Preheat the grill to medium-high heat.

Line each muffin tin with enough foil to completely surround each muffin section

Sauté the bacon until it is crispy, about 6 to 8 minutes., strain and then dice small

Place 1 tablespoon of melted butter or olive oil in the foil lined muffin tin

Add 2 tablespoons of cooked spinach to each tin

Place a shucked and rinsed oyster on the spinach

Sprinkle a teaspoon of diced crispy bacon on each oyster

Place a fresh jalapeno ring on top of each oyster

Ladle a couple tablespoons of Hollandaise over each oyster

Over high heat (approx. 400 degrees) cook the mixture about 5 to 7 minutes with the lid closed

Squeeze a small amount of lemon juice on each oyster tin and hit each one with a pinch of The Texas Gourmet’s Sidewinder Searing Spice

Serve the oysters immediately with a loaf of hot French bread

Man, I wanna tell you that this is some really good eating, I hope you enjoy it as much as we do!

Bon Appétit!

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Christmas seafood recipes to get ahead with your festive feast planning

Chilli, gin and orange salt-baked spanner crab; Photo: Alicia Taylor

When we talk Australian Christmas feasting, does it get any more ‘Strayan than a table heaving with seafood? Keep the ocean’s catch front and centre with oysters, scallops and prawn cocktails for starters, stunning fish and lobster dishes for the centrepiece mains, and plenty of options if you’re firing up the barbecue.

How to make salmon gravlax

Grilled lobster with beurre blanc and chives

Lobster with lemon myrtle, tarragon and crab butter

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Coral trout with saffron and Sherry-roasted onions

Grilled Balmain bugs with charred grapes and ouzo

Oysters with two sauces

Scampi with green mango and fried shallots

Grilled scallops in the shell

Louis Tikaram’s grilled Hervey Bay scallops with soy and ginger

Freshly shucked oysters with tarragon dressing

Sean Moran’s freshly shucked oysters with tarragon dressing

Grilled scallops with spring onion and peanut

Si Paradiso’s charred octopus with almonds and mandarin

Guy Grossi’s Gaeta-style octopus

Seafood platter with chervil butter and a trio of sauces

Fleet’s seafood platter with Marie Rose sauce

Crab crostini by Leonardo’s Pizza Palace

Louis Tikaram’s Mooloolaba prawn ceviche with green chilli dressing

Napier Quarter’s mussels dressed with spring-onion and verjuice vinaigrette

Bar Alto’s mussels with chilli, garlic and white wine

Phil Wood’s mussels with chilli and shiitake

Lobster mousse

Saint Peter’s scallops with citrus dressing

Scallop crudo by Leonardo’s Pizza Palace

Snapper crudo with roe and cucumber

White fish crudo with avocado, herbs and cucumber-lime dressing

Rockmelon, lime and poppy-seed prawn cocktails

Prawn and pomelo salad with roasted chilli dressing

Prawn cocktail tower

Prawn and avocado with lime

Prawn tostadas with corn relish and chipotle crème fraîche

Prawn and avocado salad with spiced tomato dressing

Jordan Toft’s dressed crab

Lobster tagliolini

Salt and pepper prawns with lemon

Charred prawns on skewers with lime

Mike McEnearney’s grilled prawn, watermelon and tomato salad

Barbecue prawns

Barbecued scallops with seaweed butter and rye bread

Barbecued prawns with honey, sesame and lemon

Easy Christmas prawns (Liberté’s garlic prawns with chilli and Thai basil)

Whole snapper with orange and pistachio sauce

Tedesca Osteria’s Whole snapper with orange and pistachio sauce

Whole barbecued fish with chilli and peach salsa

Barbecued barramundi with macadamia romesco

Smoked ocean trout with beans, peas and mint

Seared tuna with dill cucumbers and potato salad

Calamari and pounded sambal with cabbage salad

Lobster Australienne by Mary’s Underground

Barbecued lobster tails with lemon drawn butter and corn-radish salad

Grilled lobster tails with roast chilli butter and corn salad

Tony Tan’s guide to making black pepper crab

Whole barbecued snapper with green papaya salad

Baked golden trout with roe

Fleet’s cured mackerel with tomatoes and sourdough bread

Amy Hamilton’s crab with fried-shallot butter and green peppercorns

Dan Hong’s mud crab with XO sauce

Lemongrass and lime-cured trout with rice paper crackers

Beetroot-cured ocean trout with buttermilk and soft herbs

Danielle Alvarez’s slow-cooked ocean trout with peas, and Meyer lemon and fennel salsa

Phil Wood’s baked snapper with pistou

Frank Camorra’s dorada al fondo con patatas (marinated whole snapper baked on potatoes and peppers)

Barbecued whole fish with lemongrass and lime leaves

Roast ocean trout with cucumber and preserved lemon salad

Chilli, gin and orange salt-baked spanner crab

Gourmet Traveller is Australia’s trusted authority on food, travel and luxury lifestyle, bringing the latest news and trends to life through quality journalism, enticing recipes and evocative photography. For more than 55 years, it has been inspiring and informing Australians with the best in cooking, dining, travelling and shopping. Our critics bring the expertise of years of critical eating, drinking and writing to the table. Plus, as the country’s leading title in the luxury sector, Gourmet Traveller works closely with Australia’s leaders in the travel and hospitality industries to give our readers exclusive access. The Gourmet Traveller legacy is one of trust, prestige and relevance.

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