tourism 30th anniversary edition

Tourism 30th Anniversary Edition

34 SONGS • 2 HOURS AND 19 MINUTES • AUG 28 1992

• TRACKS TRACKS
• DETAILS DETAILS

With their hooky brand of dance-oriented pop/rock, Sweden's Roxette rose to fame as one of the biggest global pop acts of the '80s and '90s. Second in Sweden only to ABBA in terms of commercial success, the duo sold over 75 million records around the world, earning number ones in several countries with 1988's Look Sharp!, 1991's Joyride, and 1994's Crash! Boom! Bang!. They dominated the charts with songs like "The Look," "Listen to Your Heart," "Joyride," and "It Must Have Been Love," all four of which hit the top of the Billboard Hot 100. They never strayed from their high-gloss pop sound and continued to chart Top Tens in Europe with albums like 2001's Room Service, 2011's Charm School, and 2016's Good Karma.

Hailing from Halmstad, Sweden, Roxette were a duo featuring vocalist Marie Fredriksson and songwriter, vocalist, and multi-instrumentalist Per Gessle. Fredriksson and Gessle first met in the late '70s, when she was a member of the pop combo Strul & Ma Mas Barn and he played with Gyllene Tider, one of Sweden's biggest groups of the late '70s and early '80s. In 1981, after Fredriksson's group broke up, she joined Gyllene Tider as backing vocalist for a concert tour, and later worked with them in the studio in the same capacity. In 1984, Fredriksson released her first solo album, Het Vind (Hot Wind) and Gessle contributed a song for the sessions; the same year, Gyllene Tider recorded their only English-language album, The Heartland Café, and Gessle once again invited Fredriksson to contribute to the sessions. For the American release, Gyllene Tider's American label, Capitol Records, edited the 11-song album down to a six-track EP and shortened the title to Heartland. Capitol also felt the name Gyllene Tider might not register with U.S. listeners, so the group adopted the name Roxette, taken from a song by British pub rock icons Dr. Feelgood.

The Heartland Café proved to be Gyllene Tider's last album for a 20-year period, and Gessle decided it was finally time for him and Fredriksson to record a project together. As Roxette, they cut a single in 1986, "Neverending Love," which was a major hit in Sweden, and a number of songs Fredriksson and Gessle had earmarked for her third solo album became the basis of the first proper Roxette album, Pearls of Passion. In hopes of greater international success, Roxette wrote and recorded their material in English, but while Pearls of Passion was a hit at home, Capitol/EMI didn't bother to release the album in the United States. The same fate initially befell 1988's Look Sharp! until an American student studying in Sweden brought a copy of the album home to Minneapolis and persuaded a DJ at a local radio station to give "The Look" a spin. The song clicked with listeners, and soon Capitol rush-released Look Sharp! in the United States; both "The Look" and "It Must Have Been Love" went to number one on the singles charts, and the album went platinum, establishing Roxette in the States and kick-starting their career in Europe.

Their next album, 1991's Joyride, also went platinum in America, and it was followed in 1992 by Tourism: Songs from Studios, Stages, Hotel Rooms and Other Strange Places, a collection of material recorded during the group's 1991 world tour. In 1994, Roxette released Crash! Boom! Bang!, which was successful in Sweden and Europe but failed to live up to the sales figures of their second and third albums in America. In 1996, Roxette went on hiatus after recording a Spanish-language album, as Gyllene Tider staged a reunion tour and Gessle released a solo album. Roxette returned to duty in 1999 with the album Have a Nice Day, and Room Service followed in 2001, with the duo making a high-profile appearance as part of the Eurovision Song Contest. However, in the fall of 2002, Roxette were forced to curtail their activities when Fredriksson was diagnosed with a brain tumor; over the next several years, she focused on her recovery and recorded solo material, while Gessle also pursued solo projects and staged another Gyllene Tider reunion.

In 2008, Gessle surprised fans at a concert in Amsterdam when he brought out Fredriksson to sing several Roxette hits, and in 2009, the duo staged a comeback tour that sold out halls all across Europe and the Netherlands. With Fredriksson back in fighting shape, Roxette returned to the recording studio, and 2011's Charm School was their first album of new material in ten years. It was followed by another successful world concert tour that stretched for two years. The lead single from the album -- "She's Got Nothing On (But the Radio)" -- hit the top of the European Airplay charts that January. 2012 saw the release of Roxette's ninth effort, entitled Travelling. It was originally going to be called Tourism 2, a direct sequel to their 1992 album, but EMI insisted on avoiding album titles with numbers. The record featured the lead single "It's Possible," and went on to enter the Top Ten album charts in four countries.

2016 would mark the duo's 30th year together, and a huge tour was planned for the occasion. After brief stints pursuing other projects -- Gessle once again reunited with his boy band and Fredriksson promoted her solo album Nu -- the RoXXXette 30th Anniversary Tour kicked off in late 2014. It was scheduled to coincide with the release of Roxette's tenth studio album, 2016's Good Karma, but due to Fredriksson's recurring ill health, the tour had to be cut short in February 2016. Gessele toured Europe as Per Gessele's Roxette in late 2018, around the same time that the 30th anniversary edition of Look Sharp! appeared. Fredriksson died in December 2019 at age 61. The following year, Roxette issued Bag of Trix, a collection of previously unreleased songs that included "Let Your Heart Dance with Me," a Good Karma outtake that was one of the last vocals Fredriksson recorded. Pelle Alsing, the group's longtime stage drummer, died on December 20, 2020. ~ Mark Deming

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Tourism 30th Anniversary Edition

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How Do You Do!

The Look (Live In Sydney)

The Heart Shaped Sea

Keep Me Waiting

It Must Have Been Love (Live In Santiago)

It Must Have Been Love (L.A. Version 1992)

Cinnamon Street

Never Is A Long Time

Silver Blue

Here Comes The Weekend

So Far Away

Come Back (Before You Leave)

Things Will Never Be The Same (Live In Zürich)

Joyride (Live In Sydney)

Queen Of Rain

Fingertips '93

2, Cinnamon Street

How Do You Do! (T&A Demo Apr 4, 1992)

Roxette Per Gessle

Never Is A Long Time (Torsgatan Piano Demo Sep 24, 1987)

Here Comes The Weekend (T&A Demo Mar 30, 1988)

Fingertips (T&A Demo Jan 28, 1992)

Silver Blue (T&A Demo May 21 1987)

The Heart Shaped Sea #1 (T&A Demo Apr 25, 1991)

Never Is A Long Time (EMI Demo May 26-30, 1987)

The Rain (T&A Demo Dec 29, 1991)

Keep Me Waiting (T&A Demo Aug 18, 1990)

Come Back (Before You Leave) [T&A Demo Apr 8, 1990]

Queen Of Rain (T&A Demo Jan 2, 1990)

Cinnamon Street (T&A Demo Jan 2, 1992)

Never Is A Long Time (T&A Demo Nov 11, 1987)

Silver Blue (Demo)

The Heart Shaped Sea #2 (T&A Demo May, 1991)

Other Albums by Roxette

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Roxette|Tourism 30th Anniversary Edition

Tourism 30th Anniversary Edition

• Released on 2/17/23 by WM Sweden
• Main artists: Roxette

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Jonas Isacsson, Guitar - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, MixingEngineer - Mats Persson, Engineer - Anders Herrlin, Engineer, Bass Guitar, Programmer - Pelle Alsing, Drums - Vicki Benckert, Backing Vocals - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, Programmer, MixingEngineer - Lennart Haglund, Engineer - Staffan Öfwerman, Percussion, Backing Vocals

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 1992 Parlophone Music Sweden AB, a Warner Music Group Company

Jonas Isacsson, Acoustic Guitar, Electric Guitar, Mandolin - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Acoustic Guitar, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Antoine Midani, AssistantEngineer - Alar Suurna, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Bass Guitar - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, MixingEngineer - Paulo Junqueiro, Engineer - Staffan Öfwerman, Tambourine

Jonas Isacsson, Guitar - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Guitar, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Bass Guitar - Pelle Alsing, Drums - Vicki Benckert, Backing Vocals - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, MixingEngineer - Staffan Öfwerman, Percussion, Backing Vocals - Patrick H., Engineer

Jonas Isacsson, Acoustic Guitar, Mandolin - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Producer, Acoustic Guitar, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Greg Leisz, Pedal Steel Guitar - RAIL ROGUT, AssistantEngineer - Mike Ross, Engineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, MixingEngineer - Mats Persson, Acoustic Guitar - Anders Herrlin, Bass Guitar - Pelle Alsing, Percussion - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, MixingEngineer

Jonas Isacsson, Guitar - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, Percussion, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Engineer, Bass Guitar, Programmer - Pelle Alsing, Drums - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, Programmer, MixingEngineer - Lennart Haglund, Engineer - Staffan Öfwerman, Backing Vocals - Mia Lindgren, Backing Vocals

Jonas Isacsson, Guitar, Guitarra - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, Tambourine, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Engineer, Bass Guitar - Pelle Alsing, Drums - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, MixingEngineer - Lennart Haglund, Engineer

Marie Fredriksson, Piano, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - RAIL ROGUT, Engineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Engineer - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, MixingEngineer

Jonas Isacsson, Guitar - Marie Fredriksson, Piano, Vocals - Per Gessle, Vocals, Writer, Harmonica, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Greg Leisz, Guitar - RAIL ROGUT, Engineer - Mike Ross, Engineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, Tambourine, MixingEngineer - Mats Persson, Guitar - Anders Herrlin, Engineer, Bass - Roxette, Vocals, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, MixingEngineer - Staffan Öfwerman, Vocals - Mia Lindgren, Vocals

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 2015 Parlophone Music Sweden AB, a Warner Music Group Company

Oli Poulsen, Engineer - Jonas Isacsson, Guitar - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, Tambourine, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Bass Guitar - Pelle Alsing, Drums - Vicki Benckert, Backing Vocals - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, MixingEngineer - Staffan Öfwerman, Backing Vocals

Jonas Isacsson, Acoustic Guitar, Mandolin - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Engineer - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, MixingEngineer

Jonas Isacsson, Guitar, Guitarra - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Engineer, Bass Guitar - Pelle Alsing, Drums - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, Programmer, MixingEngineer

Jonas Isacsson, Acoustic Guitar - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Engineer, Bass Guitar - Pelle Alsing, Percussion - Vicki Benckert, Accordion - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Piano, MixingEngineer

Jonas Isacsson, Guitar - Marie Fredriksson, Keyboards, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Mixer, Guitar, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Bass Guitar, Programmer - Vicki Benckert, Accordion - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Piano, MixingEngineer - Hasse Huss, Writer

Jonas Isacsson, Guitar, Guitarra - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Engineer, Programmer - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, Programmer, MixingEngineer - Lennart Haglund, Engineer

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 1991 Parlophone Music Sweden AB, a Warner Music Group Company

Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Acoustic Guitar, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, MixingEngineer - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, MixingEngineer

Jonas Isacsson, Guitar - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Guitar, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Bass Guitar - Pelle Alsing, Drums - Vicki Benckert, Percussion, Backing Vocals - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, MixingEngineer - Staffan Öfwerman, Percussion, Backing Vocals - Patrick H, Engineer

Jonas Isacsson, Guitar, Guitarra - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Guitar, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, Engineer, MixingEngineer - Mats Persson, Writer - Anders Herrlin, Engineer, Bass Guitar, Programmer - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, Programmer, MixingEngineer - Lennart Haglund, Engineer - Bo Eriksson, Oboe

Jonas Isacsson, Acoustic Guitar, Electric Guitar, Mandolin - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Acoustic Guitar, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Antoine Midani, AssistantEngineer - Alar Suurna, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Bass Guitar, Audio Recording Engineer, AdditionalEngineer - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, MixingEngineer - Paulo Junqueiro, Engineer - Staffan Öfwerman, Tambourine

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 1993 Parlophone Music Sweden AB, a Warner Music Group Company

Oli Poulsen, Engineer - Jonas Isacsson, Guitar - Marie Fredriksson, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals - Per Gessle, Backing Vocals, Lead Vocals, Writer, MixingEngineer - Ted Jensen, MasteringEngineer - Alar Suurna, Tambourine, Audio Recording Engineer, MixingEngineer - Anders Herrlin, Bass Guitar - Pelle Alsing, Drums - Vicki Benckert, Backing Vocals - Roxette, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer, Keyboards, MixingEngineer - Staffan Öfwerman, Backing Vocals

Per Gessle, Producer, Guitar, Keyboards, Vocals, Writer, Bass, Programming, MainArtist - Mats Persson, Engineer, Guitar, Bass, Programming - Roxette, MainArtist

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 1992 Elevator Entertainment under exclusive license to Cosmos - a division of Cosmos Music Group.

Per Gessle, Producer, Piano, Vocals, Writer, MainArtist - Roxette, MainArtist

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 1988 Elevator Entertainment AB, under exclusive license to Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB

Per Gessle, Producer, Writer, MainArtist - Roxette, MainArtist

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 1987 Elevator Entertainment AB, under exclusive license to Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 1992 Elevator Entertainment AB, under exclusive license to Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB

Per Gessle, Producer, Writer, MainArtist - Roxette, Orchestra, MainArtist

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 1991 Elevator Entertainment under exclusive license to Cosmos - a division of Cosmos Music Group.

Per Gessle, Writer - Roxette, Orchestra, MainArtist - Clarence Öfwerman, Producer

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 2018 Elevator Entertainment under exclusive license to Parlophone Music Sweden a divison of Warner Music Sweden AB

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 1990 Elevator Entertainment under exclusive license to Cosmos - a division of Cosmos Music Group.

Per Gessle, Producer, Guitar, Keyboards, Vocals, Writer, Bass, Programming, MainArtist - Mats Persson, Engineer, Guitar, Writer, Bass, Programming - Roxette, MainArtist

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 1988 Parlophone Music Sweden AB A Warner Music Group Company

About the album

• 2 disc(s) - 34 track(s)
• Total length: 02:19:26
• Label: WM Sweden
• Genre: Pop/Rock Pop

© 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB ℗ 2023 Parlophone Music Sweden, a division of Warner Music Sweden AB

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Tourism 30th Anniversary Edition by Roxette

Contains tracks

How do you do by roxette, fingertips by roxette, the look (live in sydney) by roxette, the heart shaped sea by roxette, the rain by roxette.

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Tourism 30th Anniversary Edition

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ROX RMX Vol. 1 (Remixes From The Roxette Vaults)

ROX RMX Vol. 2 (Remixes From The Roxette Vaults)

ROX RMX Vol. 3 (Remixes From The Roxette Vaults)

Look Sharp! 30th Anniversary Edition

Joyride 30th Anniversary Edition

Bag Of Trix Vol. 4 (Music From The Roxette Vaults)

Bag Of Trix Vol. 3 (Music From The Roxette Vaults)

Bag Of Trix Vol. 2 (Music From The Roxette Vaults)

Bag Of Trix Vol. 1 (Music From The Roxette Vaults)

The 30 Biggest Hits XXX

Travelling The World Live at Caupolican, Santiago, Chile May 5, 2012

Charm School (Deluxe Edition)

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Catalogue 7999292 Label: EMI

01. How Do You Do! (studio) 02. Fingertips (studio) 03. The Look (live) 04. The Heart Shaped Sea (studio) 05. The Rain (studio) 06. Keep Me Waiting (studio) 07. It Must Have Been Love (live/studio) 08. Cinnamon Street (studio) 09. Never is a Long Time (nightclub) 10. Silver Blue (studio) 11. Here Comes the Weekend (hotel room) 12. So Far Away (hotel room) 13. Come Back [Before You Leave] (studio) 14. Things Will Never be the Same (live) 15. Joyride (live) 16. Queen of Rain (studio) Also released on MC/2LP/MD.

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The Daily Roxette has 25632 articles online. Use our constantly growing archive to find out more about Roxette, Gyllene Tider, Per Gessle, Marie Fredriksson, Son of a Plumber and more.

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Dayton CVB changes name to Destination Dayton, marking 30th anniversary

May 21—Dayton Convention & Visitors Bureau has changed its name to Destination Dayton in celebration of its 30th anniversary.

Organizational leaders say the name better reflects its goal of advocating for destination development in the Dayton area, as well as courting and marketing events from across the country to host them here.

"Our role as an organization is to be the destination marketing organization for Dayton and Montgomery County. So we felt Destination Dayton truly does say who we are and what we represent," said Jacquie Powell, president and CEO.

The bureau's board of trustees went through a process of "doing some strategic planning," she said.

"For us, this is a big effort," Powell said. "This is our 30th anniversary of being in business as the Dayton and Montgomery County's destination marketing organization."

Over the 30 years of the agency's existence, Destination Dayton's scope of work has changed, including expanding marketing efforts, and providing "outstanding and complimentary" event planning and managing services to organizers once they arrive, Powell said.

Additionally, Dayton's attractions, including Carillon Park, the National Museum of the U.S. Air Force, and numerous independent restaurants, venues, and sports facilities have grown dramatically, including the Dayton Convention Center, which is in the middle of a $45 million renovation and expansion.

The Dayton region has more to offer local residents as well.

"What we hear quite often from people is 'Oh, I never knew that was here," Powell said. "We have people who live here that haven't discovered all of the unexpected that's here in our community."

In 2021, the most recent data available, travel, tourism and conventions generated $2.4 billion in total economic impact in Dayton and Montgomery County, including indirect impacts, and generated $332 million in related tax revenue.

The tourism industry also supports more than 22,000 Dayton area jobs.

The bureau honored five event planners at its its annual National Travel & Tourism Week Celebration who contributed to the local economy by bringing events to Dayton and Montgomery County last year, events that generated nearly $4.3 million in direct spending. Those individuals are:

—Sal Barberi, 2023 Oldsmobile Club of America National Meet

—Jesse Rentfrow, 2023 Travel Baseball Rankings (TBR) Elite World Series

—Amy Spowart, National Aeronautic Association & Fédération Aéronautique Internationale General Conference 2023

—Doug Ute, 2023 Ohio High School Athletic Association (OHSAA) Girls & Boys State Basketball Championships

—Christie White, American Legion Department of Ohio 2023 Convention

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Rwanda is transforming and growing — but at what cost?

Juana Summers

Tinbete Ermyas

Rwanda's post-genocide transformation has been remarkable, but uneven. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Rwanda's post-genocide transformation has been remarkable, but uneven.

KIGALI, Rwanda — Staring at the skyline in this city, you can't miss the tiered dome of the Kigali Convention Center. At night, its blue, yellow and green lights can be seen from the surrounding hilltops.

Completed in 2016, it's known to be the most expensive building on the African continent, and a project that's special to Rwandan President Paul Kagame.

Staff inside the complex say he comes by "every day" to check on the progress. While that's almost certainly an exaggeration, the building is one of the most visible signs of the ways in which the country has changed since Kagame came to power in the years after the brutal genocide shocked the world.

Yet that transformation has been uneven, happening under the tight rule of a president who faces little opposition. And it prompts many questions, including: what type of leader is needed to help a country grow and heal from such a devastating past?

The Kigali Convention Center is an imposing structure. Edwin Remsberg / VWPics/Universal Images Group via Getty Images hide caption

The Kigali Convention Center is an imposing structure.

Development. Innovation. Growth.

Last month, Rwanda marked 30 years since the genocide in which nearly one million people, most of them ethnic Tutsis, were killed. As many as a quarter million Rwandan civilians took part in the killings. Neighbors brutally attacked their neighbors.

As world leaders descended on Kigali to mark the moment, Kagame said that Rwanda has had a long journey, but "the tremendous progress of our country is plain to see and it is the result of the choices we made together to resurrect our nation."

Tourism is a key part of Rwanda's development plan. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Tourism is a key part of Rwanda's development plan.

Rwanda is hoping to draw more tourists to the country. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Rwanda is hoping to draw more tourists to the country.

Today, the country projects an image of post-genocide harmony. Ethnicities are no longer on ID cards and are not publicly discussed. Some of those who survived the killing now live side-by-side with perpetrators .

And Rwanda has made other measurable gains. Life expectancy is up, as is tourism – which these days makes up 11% of the country's GDP. Tourists come to see the famous gorillas, and high-end packages to trek with them can cost thousands of dollars a day.

Tourism has become so entrenched in the redevelopment plan of the country under Kagame that the beckoning logo of the #VisitRwanda ad campaign is now on the jerseys of European soccer teams, like Arsenal in London.

Then there are the luxury hotels, tech startups and a new stadium that hosts an offshoot of the NBA, the Basketball Africa League .

For Albert Rudatsimburwa — a political analyst who lived abroad during the genocide — Kagame is the catalyst for all that Rwanda has achieved.

"When I came back, it was joy and tears," he said. "Joy because it had been a journey to witness the rebirth of a nation – that is the most incredible part."

Albert Rudatsimburwa says president Kagame has done a good job. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Albert Rudatsimburwa says president Kagame has done a good job.

Rudatsimburwa lives just a few doors down from Kagame and says the president is a skilled leader. He ticks through some of Kagame's accomplishments since coming to power in 2000 – "big steps," he calls them – like the number of women in government leadership, the broad medical care coverage, and the country's massive internet connectivity.

"Even the gorillas can take selfies and post them on Instagram in the middle of the jungle" he jokes.

Rudatsimburwa is not alone in crediting Kagame and the ruling political party, the Rwandan Patriotic Front [RPF]. Kagame enjoys massive support in the country and has already been elected three times .

Among the most touted achievements is how Rwanda is now home to a number of tech startups who see it as a fertile ground for innovation.

Zipline workers pack and send drones off to hospitals. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Zipline workers pack and send drones off to hospitals.

About an hour south of the capitol, a company called Zipline operates a fleet of drones that carry blood and other medical supplies to health facilities across the country, where they are in short supply. One study showed that drone blood deliveries reduced in-hospital maternal deaths from postpartum hemorrhage by more than half .

Abdoul Salam Nizeyimana, a genocide survivor, was Zipline's first Rwandan employee, and says the government prioritizes innovation and is "willing to take bets" on new technologies.

"When you survive an atrocity, it's like you're given a second chance to live," he said of his life post-genocide.

The drone program is just one example of the country's – and this president's – search for development and advancement, which feels messianic at times. Another is "Umuganda" – a nationwide holiday on the last Saturday of each month that celebrates community service projects, like road cleaning.

A Zipline worker carries part of a drone from storage over to the belt where the drone will be sent out. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

A Zipline worker carries part of a drone from storage over to the belt where the drone will be sent out.

Zipline packages are collected after being received by nurses at Kabgayi Hospital in the Southern Province of Rwanda. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Zipline packages are collected after being received by nurses at Kabgayi Hospital in the Southern Province of Rwanda.

The fact that all Rwandans are required by law to participate gets at some of the tension in this nation, post-genocide. Read one way, Umuganda is a remarkable act of unity and shared responsibility, which countries like the U.S. couldn't fathom outside of war or national disaster.

But flip that coin, and you get a picture of strongman authoritarianism, cultish devotion to the ruling party, and a series of draconian punishments for those who dare step out of line.

Repression. Arrests. Silence.

"Rwanda has made some really striking and remarkable progress in terms of economic gains, in terms of access to health, in terms of education promotion," says Lewis Mudge, the Central Africa director for Human Rights Watch.

"Unfortunately, those changes have not been matched in terms of affording people basic rights: civil and political rights, rights to express themselves freely, whether that be in the press, or at the ballot box. Rights to challenge the government."

Mudge describes democracy in Rwanda as a "performance," and that political opposition is virtually nonexistent. His view is that Rwandans want to vote "in an election in which it's not just ticking the box for Paul Kagame because they have to."

President Paul Kagame delivers his speech during the commemorations of the 30th anniversary of the 1994 Rwandan genocide in April. Luis Tato/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

President Paul Kagame delivers his speech during the commemorations of the 30th anniversary of the 1994 Rwandan genocide in April.

Mudge knows the county well. He lived and worked in Rwanda for four years, but says he was kicked out by the government in 2018 – making him the third Human Rights Watch researcher to have been ejected from Rwanda in the past decade.

It's hard to find anyone living inside Rwanda who will offer even faint criticism of Kagame. One of the few who does speak openly is Victoire Ingabire Umohoza, an opposition leader in Kigali.

"Kagame was the strongman that we needed after the genocide," she said. "But today we need a fresh perspective, a fresh blood and fresh new leadership in our country."

Umohoza challenged Kagame in the 2010 election, but was arrested and imprisoned on terrorism and conspiracy charges. She spent eight years in prison, five in solitary confinement. Umohoza was pardoned by Kagame in 2018 and released from prison, but she can't leave the country, she says, even to visit her husband in the Netherlands who is very sick.

"The government refuses to give me authorization to visit him," she said.

Critics of president Kagame say opposition is quashed until his rule. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

Critics of president Kagame say opposition is quashed until his rule.

And she was barred from challenging Kagame in national elections this year. "So that is really the problem we have in our country ... if [citizens] dare to say something to challenge the authorities, they are labeled to be the enemy of Rwanda."

Critics of Kagame say that those who challenge him risk more than imprisonment, and they point to the story of gospel singer Kizito Mihigo, once one of Rwanda's most popular artists. Mihigo lost his parents in the genocide and was said to be close to the president's family.

But a decade ago, he released the song " Igisobanuro Cy'urupfu ," which included lyrics that crossed the red line in Rwanda politics post genocide. It called for empathy for both Tutsi and Hutu victims of the fighting.

In Rwanda, officially, the 1994 genocide is called the "genocide against the Tutsis." Mihigo was convicted and imprisoned on treason charges. He was later released, but in 2020 he was re-arrested when he tried to flee the country. He was found dead in a police station a short time later.

Mudge, from the Human Rights Watch, doesn't believe the narrative that Mihigo died by suicide in prison. "He was a friend of mine," Mudge said. "I was in touch with him 24 hours before he died and I do not think he killed himself."

Mudge says the harassment against those who do challenge the Kagame government is meant to send a clear message: "It's best just to keep quiet and shut up."

Paul Rusesabagina at the Supreme Court in Kigali on February 17, 2021. Simon Wohlfahrt/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

Paul Rusesabagina at the Supreme Court in Kigali on February 17, 2021.

Today, you have two Rwandas," says Paul Rusesabagina , the hotelier turned dissident whose story inspired the film Hotel Rwanda . Rusesabagina's ties to the Rwanda Movement for Democratic Change, a group that opposes Kagame's rule, have cost him dearly.

In 2021, Rusesabagina says he was kidnapped, tried and imprisoned in Rwanda for two years and seven months. He was forced to sign a letter stating that he would not criticize the government.

Speaking from his home in the U.S., Rusesabagina says there is presently one Rwanda for the elite and then there is the "other" Rwanda: "Rwanda today is more or less a boiling volcano, you've got many people who have been silenced – and others who are silencing them."

Rwanda holds national elections in July. Umohoza will not be on the ballot, but Kagame will, running virtually unopposed . The all-but-certain win would extend his official rule to nearly a quarter century. Rwanda changed its constitution in 2015 to nullify term limits that would have capped Kagame's term, and the last time he stood for an election, the records state he won with 99% of the vote.

The development of Rwanda hasn't been evenly felt, some observers say. Jacques Nkinzingabo for NPR hide caption

The development of Rwanda hasn't been evenly felt, some observers say.

NPR made multiple requests to Kagame and was not granted an interview. We reached out to the Rwandan government for comment for this story and spokesperson Yolande Makolo sent a reply:

"Rwandan democracy is delivering progress for Rwandan people. People are free to criticize us, but all the evidence shows that Rwanda is advancing across every sector of society. But of course, there's more to do and we're a work in progress ... the idea that there are 'two Rwandas today' is ridiculous. The Rwandan government is delivering progress for all Rwandans."

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