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Valbona is one of the best- known areas for tourism in Albania. These days, tens of thousands of tourists from all over the world have visited Valbona. The most developed activity in Valbona is hiking.  However, as most of the rest of the website is devoted to Valbona, we will spare you here!

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Runners Up: 

– Guesthouse Tour

– Bear Watching (without any bears)

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21 Awesome Things To Do In Valbona Albania

21 Awesome Things To Do In Valbona Albania

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Looking for things to do in Valbona? I’ve got you covered!

You may be considering hiking the popular Theth to Valbona hiking trail but wondering what to visit in Valbona when you get there. 

Having spent a few incredible days hiking in Albania’s accursed mountains, between Theth and Valbona, I’m here to share with you all the amazing things there are to do in Valbona.

From exploring the scenic mountainside trails and visiting abandoned mills to sailing across a pristine lake, this region of Albania is a backpacker’s paradise.

If you’re looking for adventure, look no further! – Here are 21 awesome things that will make your trip to Valbona unforgettable.

🥾 For the ultimate adventure, I recommend this 4 day hiking and kayaking tour – Kayaking on the gorgeous Komani Lake is an experience you will never forget!

Valbona, Albania Essentials

🏨 Where to stay in Valbona: For an authentic Albanian Alps experience, stay in a traditional guesthouse

📌 Best Valbona tour: I recommend this 4 day hiking and kayaking tour

🚙 Best day trip from Valbona: Visit Theth Albania on this Jeep Day Tour

🚗 Rent a car : Public transport can be unreliable – consider renting a car

💸 Get insured for your trip to Albania with Ekta Travel insurance

journey to valbona

Hi, I’m JJ!

I’m a travel blogger with a passion for unique travel destinations, discovering hidden gems, and adventurous solo travel.

Valbona is one of my favourite places in Albania. I loved hiking the Theth to Valbona trail and will always remember it as one of my best adventures in Albania.

I hope you enjoy my free guides and travel tips! If so, please consider supporting my work 💕

Table of Contents

About Valbona Valley National Park 

Valbona National Park, in the north of Albania , is a hidden gem for adventure travellers. It is close to the Montenegrin border and is home to a diverse ecosystem featuring glacial springs, unique rock formations, waterfalls, dense forests and beautiful rivers.

There are a lot of excellent Valbona Valley National Park hiking trails to conquer. The Peaks of the Balkans Trail runs through this pristine valley and offers excellent hiking opportunities for those looking to explore this remote region of Europe.

Valbona is perfect for those seeking an off-beat hiking destination and will offer stunning views, plenty of wildlife sightings and an unforgettable experience.

🥾 Fancy a challenge? Why not give the 10-day Peaks of the Balkans trail a go?

Looking out at the Valbona pass whilst hiking from Theth to Valbona valley national park

Why Visit Valbona?

The tiny village of Valbona is a beautiful off-the-beaten-path destination.

It’s slowly becoming more popular with tourists thanks to its stunning national park and the Peaks of the Balkans Trail , but it’s still unknown to most travellers and you won’t find it on most people’s European wishlists. But for those who do make it to this undiscovered corner of Europe , a tiny slice of paradise awaits!

Valbona is a great place to explore if you’re looking for adventure, as it’s located in the stunning Albanian Alps mountain range. It’s home to some great hiking trails, perfect for nature lovers.

It is also one of the few places in Europe that offers some truly unique experiences for visitors – from horse riding in the mountains to kayaking wild rivers and hunting for mushrooms in the forests.

A beautiful view of the valbona valley surrounded by the Albanian alps mountaining range. Hiking in the Albanian alps is one of the best things to do in Valbona, Albania

21 Awesome Things To Do In Valbona Albania 

1. hike to theth from valbona.

The number one thing to do in Valbona, and the reason why most people come here, is to complete the hike to Theth (or to do the Theth to Valbona hike – it can be done in reverse!)

This is a popular day hike through the Albanian Alps , taking you from Valbona to Theth, through the Valbona pass. It’s one of the most rewarding hikes in the region, with stunning views of snow-capped mountains and deep valleys.

The hike took me around 7 hours to complete, including lots of time spent stopping to take photos and was one of the best things I did during my time in the Balkans.

There are lots of great things to do in Theth too, such as visiting the Theth blue eye and church of Theth. 

This is me standing at the top of the Valbona Pass, looking down at the Valbona valley. There are pine trees in the foreground lining the sides of the mountains. You can see the river bed running through the valley below and the Albanian alps mountain range in the background

2. Ride The Lake Koman Ferry

This is one of the top things to do in Albania! The Lake Koman Ferry is an incredible experience and a must-do for anyone visiting Valbona.

This ferry ride takes you across the stunning Lake Koman, allowing you to take in the spectacular views of the alpine valleys and mountains. It’s one of the most spectacular landscapes I have ever seen.

The ferry ride is a 3-hour round trip, so make sure to pack some snacks and drinks for your journey!

A view of Komani lake taken from the Komani lake ferry. The water is still and is reflecting the clouds and the steep hills that surround the lake. Taking the Komani ferry is one of the best things to do in Valbona and in Albania

3. Explore Valbona Village 

Valbona village is a great place to explore if you’re looking for an authentic insight into life in the Albania Alps.

The village is very small but it has plenty of interesting things to see, such as traditional houses and working farms.

It’s also home to some incredible guesthouses and restaurants, where you can sample local home-cooked dishes.

journey to valbona

4. Check Out The Valbonë River

The Valbona River (known as Lumi i Valbones) is one of the most beautiful rivers in Albania and it’s a great place to explore during your visit to Valbona.

You can take a relaxing stroll down by the river, admire the spectacular mountain views and spot some wildlife along the way. It’s a great spot for bird watchers too!

A view of the Valbona river running through Valbona valley in Albania. There are dense forests and mountains in the background

5. Visit The Old Mill In Valbona

The old mill in Valbona is a great place to visit while you’re in the village.

If you follow the river just north of the village you’ll find a small footbridge that spans the river, on the other side of the bridge is the old mill. The mill was built hundreds of years ago and was used to grind corn kernels into flour.

You can wander inside and see the mechanisms, which are really interesting. I believe that the old mill is sometimes still used to make cornbread – a staple food in the region!

A small bridge made of tree branches. The bridge is rustic and looks a little unstable. This bridge is on the trail from Theth to Valbona.

6. Hike To Xhemes’ Lake

This is another of the best Albanian Alps hiking trails. It’s an easy hike that is suitable for beginners.

Xhemes’ Lake is located around 0.5km from the village of Valbona. The hike will take you past some beautiful pine forests, with stunning views of the surrounding mountains. At the end of the hike, you’ll arrive at a small but picturesque lake which makes for great photos.

The waters are incredibly blue and super clear. It’s a great spot for a picnic.

A woman hiking along a gravel trail in Valbona valley national par. The trail is surrounded by dense forests and mountains are visable ahed of her.

7. Rrogam Waterfall

The Rrogam Waterfall is one of the most spectacular sights in the area and is one of the best things to do in Valbona.

The waterfall is approximately 25 meters high and cascades down a rocky cliff into a clear pool below. You can reach the Rrogam Waterfall by following a well-marked hiking trail that starts in the village of Rrogam, about 3km (~1.8 miles) from Valbona.

The trail takes approximately 30-45 minutes to complete and you’ll be treated to stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.

The Rrogam Waterfall also holds cultural significance for the local community, as it is believed to have healing powers.

Close up of waterfall in albania

8. Peaks Of The Balkans 

The Peaks of the Balkans is a 200-kilometre trekking route that links together three countries – Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo.

The route takes you through some stunning terrain, including lush meadows, wooded valleys, jagged peaks and crystal-clear rivers. You’ll also have the opportunity to visit remote villages that are untouched by time.

The Peaks of the Balkans trail is a great way to explore the region. It takes around 2 weeks to complete from start to finish and you can choose to hike the entire route or just sections of it. It ranges from 670m to 2300m in altitude and although it isn’t too difficult, it requires a good fitness level.

🥾 I recommend hiking the Peaks of the Balkans as part of a small group tour – that way you won’t get lost!

A view of Valbona valley as seen from the Valbona pass. There are steep mountain slopes covered in pine trees. Down in the valley you can see the valbona river running through it and huge mountains rising up on the other side of the valley. A girl is hiking down the trail in the foreground.

9. Stay At A Traditional Guesthouse

No list of things to do in Valbona, Albania, would be complete without a guesthouse stay.

Valbona is home to some great traditional guesthouses. These offer a unique experience and are a great way to get an authentic insight into life in the mountains.

You’ll be able to enjoy home-cooked meals prepared by your hosts and you may also have the opportunity to take part in activities with them, such as farming or collecting herbs.

🏫 I recommend this guesthouse – The views are amazing, you can have breakfast out on the terrace each morning and the owners are incredibly sweet and always happy to help.

A tradition guesthouse in Valbona. The building is large and made of stone. There are no other buildings nearby. There is a tree in front of the guesthouse and a beautiful view of the albanian alps in the background.

10. Try Some Traditional Albanian Food

Albanian food in Valbona is delicious and it’s a great way to experience the local culture. Some staples of the region include Djathë – a very salty cheese – and cornbread, which is served with everything!

I recommend trying a home-cooked meal at one of the guesthouses.

Traditional Albanian food

11. Go For A Swim

Going for a swim is a great way to soak your muscles after all that hiking you will be doing!

The river is a good spot for a dip, but be warned mountain water is very cold so don’t stay in for too long! If you’re not brave enough to swim in the river, there are also some great swimming spots at Xhemes’ Lake and the Rrogam Waterfall.

A view of Komani lake taken from the Komani lake ferry. The water is a beautiful shade of green/blue. Taking the Komani ferry is one of the best things to do in Valbona and in Albania

12. Kukaj Village

Kukaj is a small traditional village located near the border with Montenegro. It is situated within Theth National Park and has stunning mountain scenery surrounding it.

Kukaj Village is known for its stone houses, which are built in a unique style that reflects the local architecture.

The village is located on the Valbona to Theth hiking trail, the villagers are super friendly and will invite you into their homes for snacks, so it’s a good place to stop for a while during the hike.

a view of Kukaj village from the Theth to Valbona hiking trail. The houses are made of stone and have pointed roofs. The mountains are visable in the background.

13. Valbona Camping 

Valbona, Albania is an awesome place for wild camping. I personally didn’t camp here as I really wanted to experience the guesthouses instead, but I did camp in other parts of Albania.

Wild camping is pretty common and safe in Albania and I saw a few people pitching tents around the hiking trails in Valbona. If you do camp here just remember to be prepared. Plan your camping food list in advance and come with all the equipment you will need for camping.

I would have loved to have camped in the mountains in Albania and spent the night under the stars, surrounded by pine trees.

A metal camping mug with the words 'Happy Camper' written on it is balanced on top of a pile of logs in the forest. wild camping is one of the best things to do in Valbona Albania.

14. Relax In Nature 

Valbona is beautiful and surrounded by natural beauty so one of the best things to do in Valbona is to just relax and enjoy it!

Take some time to sit back and observe the mountain vistas, go for a leisurely stroll along one of the hiking trails or just spend some time sitting on a rock and admiring the views.

Valbona is an amazing place and you’ll want to make sure that you get out in nature and really soak it up!

A hiking trail in Valbona valley national park. The trail is surrounded by rocks and pine trees. The peaks of the albanian alps mountains can be seen up ahead.

15. Horse Riding 

If you fancy exploring Valbona in a different way then why not go horse riding?

Horse riding is a great way to explore the area and you’ll get to see some of the most stunning parts of Valbona. You can take a guided tour or just rent your own horse for the day – whichever works best for you!

journey to valbona

16. Zla Kolata

Zla Kolata is a huge mountain on the border of Montenegro and Albania and is one of the highest of the Accursed Mountains.

The trail to reach it starts in Valbona. It’s quite a long hike – approximately 6 hours, so make sure you’re prepared and have plenty of food and water with you.

There’s an elevation gain of 1,607 m (5,282 ft) and it’s rated as a moderate difficulty, It’s well worth the climb though as the summit provides some truly spectacular views!

A view of the peak of a large mountain in Valbona. There are pinetrees in the foreground.

17. The Museum And Statue Of Bajram Curri

This is located about 30 mins from Valbona in the town of Bajram Curri.

Bajram Curri is the largest town in the Tropoja District of northern Albania, near the border with Kosovo.

The Museum was looted during the riots in 1997 and there have been no efforts to re-open it since, it’s worth poking around if you’re interested in Urbex and abandoned places.

There is also a statue of Bajram Curri (who the town is named after) outside the museum.

18. Kayaking 

I’m a big fan of kayaking and try to do it whenever I get the opportunity. There are some excellent spots for kayaking in and around Valbona.

For an incredibly unique experience, I recommend kayaking on Komani Lake. The water is so still and reflective that it feels like you are floating through clouds!

View of Komani Lake from the ferry. Albania

19. Explore Caves

There are a few caves dotted around the Valbona Valley National Park that are worth exploring. ‘The Cave of Dragobia’ is probably the most well-known.

It’s a relatively easy hike, around 2.6 km on uneven terrain. The trail is clearly marked and signposted.

The hike is pleasant and the cave is worth visiting for its unique beauty and history.

Close up of rock walls in a cave

20. Go Mushroom Hunting 

I saw some of the biggest mushrooms I’ve ever seen growing in Valbona! They were huge!

The ‘Journey to Valbona’ shop in Tropoja can organise mushroom foraging tours. I didn’t get time to do this but it honestly sounds kinda fun.

two large mushrooms surrounded by grass

21. Hike To The Jezerca Lakes

The Jezerca Lake is one of the most beautiful alpine lakes that I’ve ever seen! This is the largest lake in the Albanian Alps and sits at 1,792m (~5879 ft) above sea level.

It’s actually easier to get to the lakes from Vusanje in Montenegro. But, if you want an off-trail adventure, then you definitely should try going from Valbona Valley National Park in Albania.

 It’s a 10 km hike, but the views are breathtaking and totally worth it.

journey to valbona

Best Tours To Valbona Valley

Albania hiking tours.

There are lots of great options for hiking tours in the Valbona area.

Peaks of the Balkans trail

✅ Hike the trail with a professional guide

✅ Visit Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo

✅ Small group tour

Hiking tour of Valbona, Theth and Komani

✅ Accommodation with breakfast is included

✅ See the best of the Albanian Alps

Komani Lake Tours 

Komani Lake is another must-see in the Albanian Alps. Here are my favourite tours to Komani .

Komani Lake - lake Koman Albania

4 day hiking and kayaking tour

✅ Kayak on Komani Lake

✅ Hike from Valbona to Theth

2 day tour of Komani Lake and Shala River

✅ Private tour

✅ Stay at a riverside guesthouse

✅ Swim or relax on the deck of the boat

Komani Lake Day Trip

✅ Day trip from Tirana

✅ Lunch included

✅ See places only accessible by boat

Where To Stay In Valbona 

The best place to stay in Valbona is in a traditional guesthouse. Here are some good options

Butjina Majag – This guesthouse has incredible views and the owners are so sweet and helpful

Guesthouse Bujtina Valbonë – Big clean and comfortable rooms

Hotel Margjeka Valbone – I didn’t stay here but I did pop in for dinner at their restaurant. The food was really good and the hotel looked nice and cosy too.

How To Get To Valbona Valley National Park

There are a few different options for getting to Valbona Village and Valbona Valley National Park, with or without a car .

Tirana To Valbona

To get from Tirana to Valbona, I recommend travelling from Tirana to Shkoder – via hitchhiking, bus or rental car – stopping for supplies in Shkoder and then following the instructions below to travel from Shkoder to Valbona.

You might want to consider staying in Shkoder for a night or two before you head to Valbona. Shkoder is a lovely city with lots of fun things to do .

Free 3 Day Tirana Itinerary

Shkoder to valbona.

The best way to travel from Shkoder to Valbona is to take a furgon (shared taxi/minibus) to Koman, board the Komani ferry for the trip across the lake and then take another furgon to Valbona.

You can also hitchhike to and from the ferry .

Theth To Valbona

You can also reach Valbona by travelling to Theth and then hiking through the Valbona Pass to reach Valbona village.

The road from Shkoder to Theth is treacherous and I don’t recommend that you attempt to drive it yourself as it can be difficult for foreign tourists who aren’t used to Albania’s roads.

You can organise private transport from many places in Shkoder. I booked a transport and guesthouse package through my hostel in Shkoder .

Komani Lake Ferry Albania

FAQs: Things To Do In Valbona Albania

Should i visit theth or valbona.

You should visit both Theth and Valbona. The two are linked by a popular hiking trail through the Valbona Pass. The views are spectacular and you’ll get to experience both villages.

What time of year is best for hiking in Valbona?

The best time to visit Valbona for hiking is during the summer months. The weather is warm and the trails are open. While snowfall is common in winter, it’s not advisable to attempt hiking in Valbona during this season.

Can you drive to Valbona Albania?

Yes, you can drive to Valbona. To drive from Shkoder to Valbona you will need to first drive to Koman and take the ferry across Lake Komani to Fierze, you can then continue the drive to Valbona. However, the drive is difficult as the mountain terrain can be treacherous.

Where to sleep in Valbona?

There are a few guesthouses and hotels in Valbona, such as Guesthouse Bujtina Valbonë and Hotel Margjeka Valbone. They offer simple but comfortable accommodations with traditional Albanian hospitality and home-cooked meals. You can also camp in the valleys around Valbona.

View of Valbona valley National Park. Pine trees in the foreground and the Albanian alps (also known as the accursed mountains) in the background

Final Thoughts: Things To Do In Valbona Albania

I hope you enjoy your time in Valbona and make the most of all the amazing things to do here!

Whether you’re looking for a relaxing stroll by the river or an epic mountaineering adventure – there’s something for everyone in this beautiful valley.

Valbona is one of the most stunning places I’ve ever seen – don’t miss it!

Whilst you are in the North of Albania be sure to also check out Shkoder, which is well worth a visit .

A pinterest pin showing a collage of photos of Valbona with a pink banner across the middle of the image which reads "Best things to do in Valbona, Albania"

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Travel Insurance: Never travel without proper travel insurance! I always use EKTA

Luggage Storage: Radical Storage is a Luggage storage network that operates in over 70 countries and 350 cities with more than 3500 storage points. I love using Radical storage to store my bags before or after checking in/out of my hotel as it gives me an extra day to explore without having to worry about dragging my luggage around with me.

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I’m so bummed I missed this region when I road tripped through Albania back in 2019 🙁 It looks incredible. With so many amazing things to do in Valbona Albania I will definitely need to return to get some hiking in!

This looks incredible and wasn’t even on my radar. Thanks for sharing!

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 Valbona, Albania as a Travel Destination

Discover the unspoiled beauty of valbona.

Nestled in the heart of the Albanian Alps, Valbona Valley National Park is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. With its pristine landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and warm hospitality, Valbona is not just a destination; it's an experience that stays with you. We bring you closer to the heart of Valbona, Albania, sharing insider tips, captivating stories, and comprehensive guides to ensure your visit is nothing short of magical.

Why Valbona?

Valbona is more than just a scenic spot; it's a haven for adventurers, nature lovers, and culture enthusiasts. From the majestic peaks of the Albanian Alps to the tranquil flow of the Valbona River, every corner of this valley tells a story. Whether you're hiking through its rugged trails, exploring quaint villages, or savoring local cuisines, Valbona offers an authentic slice of Albanian wilderness and tradition.

Great Vibes

Indie Flower

Staatliches

Roboto Slab

Look into the history of  Valbona Albania. 

 The Valbona valley region has a historical and cultural significance. This area, characterised by its landscapes and untouched beauty has silently witnessed centuries of history from the times of Illyrian tribes, to the reign of the Ottoman Empire. The valleys traditional stone houses, ancient pathways and age old customs serve as a living testament to Albanian highland life. Each village and trail narrates stories of resilience, heritage and unity; preserving a way of life that has remained unaltered, for generations. Valbona's cultural fabric is adorned with folklore, traditional music and dances that honor the spirit of the people. It beckons those who yearn for experiences to immerse themselves in its captivating allure.

Historical tours

Explore the depths of Valbona's past with a Historical Guide. Delve into the rich tapestry of history that blankets the valley, from ancient Illyrian settlements to Ottoman influences. This guide illuminates the historical landmarks and stories that have shaped Valbona, offering a journey back in time.

Self-guided tours

Embrace the freedom of discovery with a Self-Guided Tour. Equipped with detailed maps and insightful information, adventurers can explore Valbona at their own pace. This option is perfect for those who prefer to soak in the natural beauty and cultural sites independently, creating their own unique experiences.

Guided tours

A Guided Tours provide an immersive experience, led by local experts passionate about sharing their knowledge of Valbona. From hidden gems to iconic landmarks, these tours offer a comprehensive exploration of the valley's natural wonders and cultural heritage, ensuring you don't miss a thing.

  Valbona Travel Guides

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Multi-Day Tours

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Walking Tours

Tours & sightseeing.

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Easy Online Payment

Activities and attractions in valbona.

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Start living the life you deserve to live. Live your life your way.

Geographic and climatic information about valbona.

Valbona Valley is a beautiful area in the Albanian Alps with tall mountains, forests, and a clear river running through it. The land has many hills and high mountains, some over 2,500 meters tall. It's home to lots of plants and animals because of its varied landscapes like woods and grassy areas.

The weather in Valbona changes with the seasons. In summer, it's usually warm and sunny, perfect for hiking, with days around 20°C (68°F). But even in summer, nights can get cool, especially up in the mountains. Winter is cold and snowy, making everything look like a winter wonderland, but it can get really cold, below 0°C (32°F).

Spring and fall are in-between times with mild weather. Spring brings melting snow and wildflowers, while fall turns the leaves beautiful colors. These seasons can have rain and show off the valley's beauty in different ways, making it peaceful and great for visiting.

Valbona's Hidden Treasures

Discover the lesser-known spots of Valbona. We guide you through secret paths leading to stunning vistas and hidden waterfalls, ensuring you experience the valley's untouched beauty.

Local Culture and Cuisine

Immerse yourself in the rich culture of Valbona. Learn about the traditions that shape the lives of locals and tantalize your taste buds with our guide to the best traditional dishes.

Travel Made Easy

Planning your trip can be overwhelming, but we've got you covered. From travel tips to recommended itineraries, we provide all the information you need for a hassle-free adventure in Valbona.

Adventure doesn't wait. It goes.

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As a native of New York, I thought I had already seen everything, but Valbona Albania really opened my eyes.

Jane Faber 

journey to valbona

We were only in New York for three days, and I am glad that we booked a Valbona Albania tour because we saw all the top sights.

journey to valbona

If I could go back to New York and book more tours with Valbona Albania I would. The team was vibrant, and the tour was fun.

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Valbona Valley National Park

journey to valbona

  • 1.1 History
  • 1.2 Landscape
  • 1.3 Flora and fauna
  • 1.4 Climate
  • 3 Fees/permits
  • 4 Get around
  • 10.1 Lodging
  • 10.2 Camping
  • 11 Stay safe

Valbona National Park , also called the Albanian miracle of Alps , is a part of the Bjeshkët e Nemuna . It lies between high and craggy peaks bordering Thethi National Park , Gashi River, Plava and Gucia (Montenegro), all strictly protected natural areas. It is a transboundary park (Albania/Montenegro) with the highest biodiversity value of the country's mountain mainland. This park is also referred to as the Gem of Albania.

The name Valbona is used to refer to the turquoise colored Valbona River, which in turn flows through the valley bearing its name, and a small village in the valley, as well the general area informally. A wild, high, mountainous region inhabited by strong and fiercely independent people, the Malësi (Highland), for the history of Albania has been the region which was never really conquered or subdued by the various waves of invaders during the last 2,000 years of Balkan history. While the proper name of the mountains around Valbona specifically are the Gjakova Highlands (Malësi e Gjakovës), their name is most often translated in English as the Accursed Mountains, based on the name given to them by disgruntled Serbian would-be invaders.

journey to valbona

Four villages are located within the park (Dragobi, Valbona, Cerem and Rragam) with 852 inhabitants. All of these factors create more favorable conditions for coexistence and socioeconomic development, including Valbona National Park. High and characteristic mountain peaks, lakes, numerous water resources, forests, mountains, flora and fauna provide conditions for eco-tourism.

The valley is known for the rare natural beauties, high mountains, biodiversity and natural monuments.

Flora and fauna

The environment of this area is quite diversified. Major differences between forms of relief, limestone composition of rocks, water, numerous springs and numerous types of microclimates enable biodiversity in the valley.

Valbona Valley is considered to be the only area in Albania, where a big number of forest formations with spruce (Picea abies) can be found, an important specie of Central Europe which is found at 850-1200 masl. Climate is suitable for beech (Fagus sylvatica), mountain pine (Pinus leucordemis), Balkan pine (Pinus peuce), mountain pine (Pinus silvestris), chestnut (Castanea sativa), nuts (Junglans regia), wild apple (Malus sylvestris) etc. It is an area where nature takes its place in the absence of human intervention, so it is generally virgin part of our planet.

This park represents one of the most important national bio centers of wild fauna. It is a habitat for large mammals, such as bear (Ursus arctos), wolf (Canis lupus), lynx (Felis lynx), deer (Capreolus capreolus), wild goat (Rupicapra rupicapra), wild boar (Sus scrofa). We can also witness the presence of western capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus) and eagle (Aquila chrysaetos). Sources of water, becks and glacial lakes are the basis of life for water insects, amphibians, and salmons (trout with red dots).

Within the park territory we can find vulture, stripped tailed eagle, woodpecker and a significant number of seasonal singer birds.

The valley has a mountain climate with harsh winters and numerous precipitations of rain and snow. It gets exacerbated when approaching the depth of the Alps. Valley it is the coldest area of the country. Annual air temperature average varies from 7-10 °C and in places with altitude 4-6 °C. The coldest periods are from December to February. In some cases the temperatures go down -10 °C to -20 °C. Snowy season begins in late October and stays until the end of March. Snow reaches a height of 1.5–5 m and lasts 60–160 days. Summer is considered to be quite cool. The hottest months are July and August, the temperature goes up to 22 °C. The average altitude of annual precipitation ranges 2000–2500 mm/year and in particular areas over 3000 mm/year.

The best time to visit Valbona are the summer and winter seasons.

From the capital city, Tirana , it costs €8 to come to Bajram Curri and from B. Curri to Valbona Valley €2 . Minibuses (furgons) leave Gjakova and Prizren in Kosovo for Bajram Curri in the morning (€2.50 from Gjakova). Like the rest of Albania their schedules depend on demand.

Minibuses from Shkodra bring you to the scenic ferry across Lake Koman (500 lek). They leave Shkodra at about 06:30 and Tirana at about 05:00. The ferry leaves Koman at 09:00 and arrives in Fierzë at about 12:00. You will there be picked up by minibuses that bring you to Bajram Curri (costs a few Leks extra). From Tirana , minibuses using the ferry leave at about 05:00. Other minibuses go by road via Kukës or Gjakova . From Gjakova or other close Kosovan cities there are minibuses available.

  • 42.442402 19.884272 1 Valbona Tourism Center , Rr. Azem Hajdari, 8701 Bujan, Albania . This is the official national park info center. Equipped with useful brochures, here you can buy a hiking map, find accommodation in the 2 multipurpose buildings, and use the exterior cooking areas, sport courts, water fountains, and parking. ( updated Aug 2020 )

Fees/permits

There are no fees to be paid and you do not need permission to enter the zone.

Map

When you are there you can get around by car, bicycle or better by foot so in this way you can perfectly enjoy the view.

In your journey to Valbona you may see 5 natural monuments which are:

  • Rragami Spruce . ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Valbona Sources ( Ujëvarat e Valbonës ). N/A . ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Valbona Picea's . N/A . ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Kukaj Glacial Valleys . ( updated Jul 2021 )

You can travel around by foot or horses and they offer tourist guide for remote sites. You can make short walks around, hiking and scrambling, in winter trips – skiing, snowshoeing, etc.

Trips on foot:

  • The Sand of Motina ( Zallet e Motinës ). You begin by crossing old farmland, then into beech forest, where after a bit you can find spots where you can get most of your body into the icy cold water, then emerge into sunshine at the slightly spooky Sands of Motina. ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Stanet e Gjarpërit . A great walk, but challenging mainly because of its length. The first part goes up the car’s road to Çerem, then turns off east to follow a little access road to the mobile phone antennas. This little road passes through abandoned orchards which are full of plums in late summer. At shepherds' huts (stans) near the antennas you turn north, and after a bit of steep hair-pinning emerge in the wide and windy meadows of the stans. ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • 42.44508 19.94017 1 Dragobi Cave ( Bajram Curri Cave ) ( From the Bregu i Lumit Poshtëm footpaths along the river, a trail head sign marks the beginning of the Shpella path. ). ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Zhari i Bjezhz . From Lugu i Silkut you can begin to explore this open, airy region. You’ll pass two sets of abandoned shepherds' huts (stans) on the way down, which should afford even the least imaginative plenty of fodder for musing about the life that was once lived here. After that, the last few hours are a twisty windy path down through the Zhari – forest – of Bjezhz, where at some point you will pass the biggest tree we’ve ever seen here. ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Lower Picimalit and Source . The Prroni i Picimalit path begins in the strawberry fields of Mas Kollate, where a trail head sign will alert you to the start of red & yellow trail markings. Following the red & yellow markings all the way will end walkers up by the eastern end of the Dragobi Cave path. ( updated Jul 2021 )

journey to valbona

  • River Banks, going down . From Quku i Valbonës, you can easily spend a day rambling along the southern banks of the Valbona River, heading east back towards Bajram Curri and ending up in Dragobi. You’ll pass an abandoned farmstead in Mas Kollate, and further on fabulous fields of wild strawberries in July, then pass through fairy tale old growth Beech forest. If it’s raining, you’re likely to find many fire salamanders. ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Çerem Path . This path goes up the western bank of the River of Çeremi.It’s better than walking on the car road, and shorter than the Stanet e Gjarpërit (Serpent's Hut) path. ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • 42.3863 20.107 3 Begaj Water Canal hike , Begaj Village ( from Bajram Curri head towards to Begaj village (direction of Kosovo) ). A 9 km hike one way starting at Begaj village. Only about 150 m rise in elevation Allow 2-3 hr one way. A water canal built along the edge of the mountain to bring water to lands in the Begaj village which is close but higher up from Gashi River elevation. Fascinating engineering. This is a parallel valley to the more popular Valbona Valley. The canal is used only during dry season from June–August. The rest of the year it is walkable although it can by muddy in places. You may also walk on the wall of the canal although it is precipitous in places. free . ( updated May 2023 )

Every year it opens the fair of Tourism Development Center where dominate national dress and crafts in the centre of Valbona, otherwise it's hard to find things to buy there.

The special in this valley in terms of food is the fact that food is traditional. Food is generally fresh and homemade, but it is sometimes canned and processed by the inhabitants of the village. Their way of cooking is entirely traditional. Particular taste you will feel with the cooked vegetables, grilled meat (fërliku), as highlanders say (lamb roasted on skewer), chicken, wild game and fish (mountain trout with red dots), fruit is also very tasty. Locals are the best producers of products such as meat, milk, wool and skins.

  • 42.457281 19.695361 1 Relax Hotel , FW4Q+W45, Rruga Azem Hajdari, Kikaj Maskollata, Albania . ( updated May 2023 )
  • 42.457281 19.695361 2 Restaurant Emanueli , Rrogam, Gjelaj, Rrogam, Albania . ( updated May 2023 )

There you can find the most varied drinks including homemade drinks such as brandy and wine. Also you can find them in every restaurant and guesthouse there.

  • 42.457281 19.695361 1 Bar Dragobia , Rruga Azem Hajdari, Dragobi, Albania . ( updated May 2023 )
  • 42.466806 19.682539 2 Bar Bujtina Izet Selimaj , Rruga Azem Hajdari, Valbone 8701, Albania . ( updated May 2023 )
  • 42.45733 19.93766 1 Relax Restaurant ( It's located on Dragobi, in the place called Kollatë in front of the view of Bajram Curri Cave ). ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Rezidenca ( It's located on Quku i Valbonës ). This is the most comfortable option, if your goal is to settle in for a while in luxury. It offers full board options, luxury rooms in traditional settings, self service kitchen and village settings. Prices range from €30-50 . ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Rilindja ( From the place showing where James Lake is, 50 m after you go by the left side ). Is the oldest operating restaurant in Valbona. It has 4 rooms, full board options and modern bathrooms. It costs €30-34 per room including breakfast (2 persons). ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Farmhouse . Guesthouse/ Hostel. It offers homecooked meals, full board options. It has 5 rooms and modern bathrooms. It costs €12 per person (with breakfast). ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Valbonë Eco Camping ( In the center of the valley ). Camping site €2 per person . ( updated Jul 2021 )
  • Përparimi Restaurant and Campsite ( centre of Valbona Valley ). €2 per person . ( updated Jul 2021 )

The Tropoja area has an undeserved reputation as a wild lawless region beyond the control of the government and ruled by the Albanian mafia. Unexploded ordnance from the Kosovo conflict is also an issue when wandering off the beaten path. Note that the UK, Australia and Canada have travel advisories in place advising against travel to the northeast region of Albania, including Tropoja district and Bajram Curri.

That said, the law and order situation has improved greatly and travelers are likely to meet nothing other than friendly and generous locals.

  • Bajram Curri
  • Shkodra Take the Lake Koman ferry out if you didn't come by that way. It is a breathtaking journey through massive gorgeous on Lake Koman.
  • Gjakova ( 40 km, 45-60 mins away, ticket paid on the van leaving from the town center ). closest city in Kosovo with the largest Ottoman-era bazaar in the Balkans  

journey to valbona

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Theth to Valbona Hike: Hiker’s Guide & Practical Tips

The Theth to Valbona Hike is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes to experience in Albania , a true hidden gem nestled in the heart of the remote Albanian Alps . This breathtaking adventure takes place in one of the least explored corners of the Balkans, an area that has recently gained popularity and now attracts hikers and adventurers from around the world. This captivating route, connecting two stunning national parks, Theth and Valbona Valley , promises a day filled with majestic views, challenging mountain passes, and the exhilaration of immersing oneself in the unspoiled beauty of the Balkans.

The journey unfolds like a symphony of natural grandeur, meandering through picturesque landscapes that have been largely untouched by the passage of time. Beginning from the enchanting mountain village of Theth , the route ascends towards the sky, traversing a majestic mountain pass before descending into the welcoming embrace of Valbona National Park . Along the way, hikers can admire a myriad of panoramic vistas, from rolling alpine meadows that appear to touch the heavens to the towering silhouettes of peaks that guard this rugged terrain.

Until a few years ago, the Theth to Valbona Hike demanded a certain degree of adventure and preparation, as reaching the rugged Accursed Mountains was no simple feat: the only path leading to the tiny mountain village of Theth was little more than a mule track! Today, the road is paved all the way to the top, which has fueled a thriving tourism industry. While this has somewhat diminished the remote and unexplored charm of this corner of paradise, it undeniably makes these untouched landscapes of beauty more accessible.

Whether you are an experienced hiker or a newcomer to the world of trekking, the hike from Theth to Valbona offers an experience that is undeniably worth the journey. In this guide, you will find everything you need to plan your trip , including information on how to reach Theth and Valbona , where to stay in the surrounding area, and practical details about the hike.

What you will find in this guide to the Theth to Valbona Hike:

Exploring the Untamed Beauty: Theth to Valbona Hike in the Albanian Alps

Nestled within the rugged embrace of the Albanian Alps lies a hidden gem that beckons adventurers and nature enthusiasts from around the world: the Theth to Valbona Hike . This captivating 17-kilometer journey weaves through some of Albania’s most awe-inspiring landscapes, offering intrepid explorers an unforgettable odyssey of mountainous grandeur, crystalline streams, and charming villages.

Embarking on this expedition requires a moderate level of fitness , making it accessible to those with a penchant for exploration and a heart yearning for nature’s embrace. The hike’s estimated duration of 6 to 8 hours promises an immersive experience, allowing ample time to bask in the beauty of the Albanian wilderness and capture its essence.

Winding its way through this untamed terrain, the trail unveils a mesmerizing tapestry of sights and sounds. While many trekkers traverse the route independently , guides and mules are available for hire, catering to both seasoned adventurers and those new to the hiking world. Nevertheless, the well-marked path , adorned with occasional stalls and cafes, invites adventurers to embark confidently without the need for extra assistance.

Hike Theth Valbona Albania

For those with a thirst for adventure, the hike from Theth to Valbona is an essential pilgrimage. It presents not only a physical challenge but also a spiritual connection to the natural world, as each step brings you closer to the heart of Albania’s wild beauty. The journey commences in the historic city of Shkoder , serving as a gateway to this unspoiled nature and offering a taste of Albanian culture and hospitality before setting out on the expedition.

As you follow the winding path of the trail, you will be enchanted by the timeless charm of the Accursed Mountains , a name that belies the true enchantment of these peaks. The excursion culminates in the idyllic village of Valbona, cradled by the Valbone River and embraced by the rugged peaks that define its surroundings. Here, Valbone Valley National Park reveals its treasures, inviting travelers to explore Alpine homes, picturesque inns, and a landscape that seems straight out of the pages of a fairy tale.

The Villages of Theth and Valbona and the Hike

The hike from Theth to Valbona or from Valbona to Theth is now one of the most popular hiking trails in Albania , and it’s not hard to see why. Located in the heart of the Albanian mountains, this ancient trail winds through a rugged expanse of wild beauty—a landscape adorned with craggy peaks, serene valleys, and lush forested slopes. This historic trail , once traveled by mules, connects two charming villages: Theth and Valbona , both of which serve as gateways to their respective national parks. Venture along this trail, and you will embark on a journey that promises not only breathtaking views but also a deep immersion in the cultural and natural wonders of the region.

This extraordinary hike can be undertaken in both directions: from Theth to Valbona or from Valbona to Theth . In this guide, for simplicity, we will follow the classic itinerary from Theth to Valbona , but the same advice is also valid for the hike from Valbona to Theth : to do the reverse route, simply follow the same path in the opposite direction.

Theth Albania Hike

Although often advertised as a day hike, the Theth to Valbona trail is far from a simple day trip. Instead, it constitutes the culmination of a multi-day odyssey through the Albanian Alps . This is one of the most beautiful hikes in the Balkans and requires a good deal of planning to ensure an unforgettable experience, including allowing yourself a few extra days in the villages of Theth and Valbona , if only to explore the beautiful surroundings and savor a little of local life.

Begin your journey in the secluded mountain village of Theth , nestled deep in Albania’s northern mountains. Reachable by bus or car, it’s a remote spot that serves as a gateway to a tapestry of trails and adventures in one of the Balkans’ most stunning national parks . A recommended itinerary is a loop that involves buses , the actual hike , and even a scenic boat ride .

While you may be tempted to consider renting a car, public transportation offers the freedom and convenience needed for this trip. This will allow you to do the hike one way, without having to return to collect the car, and make the most of the incredible landscapes of the region, including the ferry crossing across Komani Lake —a scenic stretch of the Drin River nestled between high forested mountains, one of the most beautiful hidden gems of Albania. You could organize everything yourself on-site or book a comprehensive and hassle-free guided tour , which includes all the logistics of the experience.

In Theth , take time to explore a few more day trips, as this village is a treasure trove of natural wonders . Set aside at least two days to discover its splendors before embarking on the excursion from Theth to Valbona. Venture to Denelle and back or embark on a day trip to the famous Blue Eye , a fascinating natural wonder. Also, admire the Grunas Waterfall , an enchanting cascade that adds charm to the region. If your passion for hiking remains insatiable, Theth offers a variety of alternative routes to satisfy your spirit of adventure.

In recent years, a large number of guesthouses and hotels have flourished in Theth , mainly family-run. However, demand has also grown at the same time, and not all accommodation is of good quality and reliability. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to book well in advance , especially if you want to secure a room or a bed in one of the best traditional guesthouses. Most of them also offer a delicious breakfast and serve local cuisine for lunch and dinner , all prepared with fresh local ingredients. Therefore, finding a great place to eat will not be difficult.

Among the best accommodations in Theth , it is worth considering Bujtina Terthorja , Molla Guest House , Guest House Rrashkadoli , Shpella Guesthouse Theth , and Guest House Panorama .

Theth Valbona Hike Albania

Moving on to Valbona , the journey continues to enchant. Walk along the road that leads you to your accommodation, giving you the chance to savor the landscapes one last time. Choosing your accommodation wisely can save you an extra walk after the hike, something to consider when planning your hike from Theth to Valbona. It is better to opt for accommodation near the head of the trail rather than further downstream, to avoid a few extra kilometers of walking.

Among the best accommodations in Valbona are Guest House Hyrmet Demushi , Hotel Margjeka , Bujtina Malaj , Hotel Krojet e Rrogamit . They offer excellent accommodations in a traditional mountain style just a step away from the trail. Other excellent options within walking distance include the modern and cozy NeoKulla Hotel , the more traditional Bujtina Valbonë , Guesthouse Demushi , and Hostel Rilindja . However, make sure to book well in advance because they are quite popular and are often booked several weeks in advance.

Arrival in the Valbona Valley , a sanctuary of tranquility framed by a serene river, rewards weary hikers with respite and mesmerizing scenery. A one-night stay in this idyllic setting allows for a moment of respite before the journey south begins. While the hike from Theth to Valbona may officially take just one day, the full expedition is a longer undertaking. Dedicate a minimum of 3-4 days to this immersive exploration of the Albanian Alps , ensuring you savor every highlight without rushing.

The Theth to Valbona Hike: Suggested Itinerary

If you are embarking on your hike from Theth to Valbona , we offer you a rough itinerary, just to give you an orientation on how you could plan your trip. In any case, consider that 4 days are really the minimum to tackle this excursion from Tirana or Shkodër in complete calm. You can reduce it to 3 days , especially by relying on a guided tour that allows you to optimize logistics, but if you go on your own, I would consider at least 4 days .

You can also count on 3-4 extra days in Theth to explore the beautiful surroundings and the many other trails in Theth National Park. The same goes for Valbona , the gateway to the stunning Valbona Valley National Park, which hides landscapes of incredible beauty and is one of Albania’s UNESCO sites .

It is easy to understand that the hike from Theth to Valbona could be the central piece of a journey to discover the national parks of Theth and Valbona , which alone would be enough to justify a trip to Albania. However, if you want to dedicate 4 days to this adventure, you could follow this rough timetable:

  • Day 1: Travel from Shkodra to Theth – Hike to Denelle – Overnight in Theth
  • Day 2: Hike to the Blue Eye of Theth, possibly visit the Grunas Waterfall – Overnight in Theth
  • Day 3: Theth to Valbona Hike – Overnight in Valbona
  • Day 4: Travel from Valbona to Shkodra – Overnight in Shkodra

The Theth to Valbona Hike: A Practical Guide

Theth to valbona hike – distance.

The distance of the Theth to Valbona hike is approximately 17 kilometers . The route winds through mountainous landscapes between two national parks , considered among the most important in Albania. This historic trail is a significant shortcut that passes through a beautiful mountain pass, where rugged peaks kiss the sky and emerald valleys weave tales of nature’s grandeur. It’s a hidden treasure for adventurers and nature lovers.

The two villages of Theth and Valbona are, in fact, separated only by a few tens of kilometers from each other, roughly following the trail. However, the presence of these high mountains means that the normal road route is much longer! The conventional road between the two villages spans 260 kilometers , whereas the Theth to Valbona hike presents itself as a more direct route, extending for only 17 kilometers.

Theth or Valbona: Where to Begin Your Hike?

Undertaking the Theth to Valbona hike sparks a common debate: where to start? In reality, you could simply start wherever you want; the path is the same no matter which direction you choose. However, choosing to hike from Valbona to Theth offers a simpler route, with the trail gently sloping. On the contrary, starting from Theth means a constant uphill journey.

Grunas Waterfall Theth Albania

On the other hand, the route from Theth to Valbona allows you to first dedicate yourself to a series of shorter but equally satisfying hikes in the surroundings of Theth , and then relax and rest after the excursion to Valbona, enjoying a placid and scenic return towards Shkodër , amid the beautiful landscapes along the Drin River and towards Lake Shkodër .

Create an itinerary for post-hike activities to guide your choice between Theth and Valbona as a starting point. Finally, those who intend to continue exploring Eastern Albania or continue the journey to Kukës and from there to Kosovo or North Macedonia should opt to arrive in Valbona , which is more conveniently located along the road.

Theth to Valbona Hike – How many Hours?

The hike from Theth to Valbona typically takes 6 to 8 hours to complete . Keep in mind that individual hiking paces vary, with some breaks to catch your breath or capture the charm of the Albanian Alps . Although most hikers say they can easily complete the hike in 5 to 10 hours depending on their pace, it is prudent to set aside at least 6 to 8 hours for the hike, including breaks.

It must be said that it is not a race, and that you will want to stop to take photos, enjoy the beautiful landscapes, and embrace the peace and connection with nature. So, my advice is to leave early in the morning and savor the entire day along the path , pausing at the top of the pass—a privileged spot for a lunch break amid breathtaking views.

Theth to Valbone Hike – Difficulty and Safety

One of the most common questions is: how difficult is the Theth to Valbona hike? In reality, despite the length, this hike is quite easy, at least from a technical difficulty point of view, but it is moderate from a physical effort point of view. But obviously, it requires good physical shape , and it is better if you are used to hiking. I mean: it’s still a hike of almost 17 km with more than 1000 meters of altitude difference ; it’s no joke!

Consider that from Theth , about 750 meters above sea level, you start with a path that gradually but incessantly climbs up to 1759 meters above sea level at the Valbona Pass . A difference in height of over 1,000 meters, which is the hardest part of the route, for a length of approximately 7 km. However, along the route, there are plenty of opportunities to take a break , including a water source around 1400 meters. From there, you descend rather quickly to an altitude of 1,100 meters above sea level and then more gradually to Valbona , which is located around 900 meters above sea level.

Hiking Theth National Park Albania

Those who hike from Valbona to Theth will have a more gradual start for the first hour or two of the trail, then climb quite steeply up to the pass and descend equally steeply. However, from the point of view of the effort required, it doesn’t change much. So, for those looking for a rewarding trek without venturing into extreme terrain, the Theth to Valbone hike offers a moderate level of challenge . While the trail includes some steeper sections, it doesn’t require advanced skills like climbing.

The difficulty and pace at which you complete the hike depend largely on your fitness and familiarity with hiking . Regular hikers may find the journey smoother than those new to the activity, of course. Before leaving, equip yourself with sturdy trekking shoes , preferably avoiding sandals as they are inadequate. Since some parts of the trail can become slippery after rain, opt for shoes with a good sole that provides optimal traction.

Theth to Valbona Hike Albania

Contrary to popular belief, a guide is not essential for this itinerary . In most cases, if the route is well-marked, a guide is not necessary. However, locals might recommend one for safety reasons, reflecting locals’ proverbial excess of caution. The trail from Theth to Valbona is marked with red and white symbols indicating the route. Although there are some spots near Theth with limited signage, you can rely on the maps.me app, which works perfectly even offline. Download this app before your hike and download the trail map for offline use; this will prove invaluable not only for Theth trails but also for hiking routes around the world.

Despite the presence of wildlife in the national park, concerns about animal encounters are generally unjustified. The region is home to various creatures, including brown bears , wolves , snakes , lynx , and deer . Although these animals inhabit the valley of Theth, their appearance along the trail is rare . Maintain alertness throughout the hike, attuned to all sounds along the way. If you happen to hear something, it is advisable to create noise. However, it’s worth noting that the trail’s popularity keeps most animals away from its busy path. There are around 4 bars along the hiking trail from Theth to Valbone, and some even have fresh water springs nearby to fill your water bottles.

When is the Best time for the Theth to Valbona Hike?

For the best hiking experience , plan your trek during late spring or early fall . Although both seasons offer excellent conditions, autumn, especially from late September to October , is the optimal time. Snow can persist into May, making fall a wiser choice than spring.

While summer attracts many hikers to Albania , the heat and crowds can present challenges. For a more comfortable trip, consider hiking in late September or October when the weather remains pleasant and the trails are less crowded.

Trail Availability

The hiking trail is accessible only between May and October due to weather conditions, with October being the ideal window. If you desire a snow-dusted landscape, consider trekking closer to the winter months when remnants of snow can adorn the mountains, particularly the Valbona Pass . However, when the trail is covered in snow, it becomes dangerous: ice, snow, and adverse weather conditions can pose serious threats to your safety. Therefore, you should not venture onto it!

Where to Stay in Theth and Valbona

As the sun sets behind the rugged Albanian Alps , weary travelers find solace in the charming villages of Theth and Valbona . Nestled amidst breathtaking landscapes, these destinations offer a range of accommodations to suit every explorer’s needs. Let’s delve into the options available for those seeking a tranquil retreat in these two enchanting locales.

Accommodations in Theth

Long gone are the days when Theth relied on legendary local hospitality by staying in one of the few remote traditional houses in the village. Now, Theth is becoming more and more popular as a tourist location , and guesthouses are blossoming everywhere at the same frenetic pace that can be observed in any Albanian resort that has recently fallen into the good graces of international tourism. We sincerely hope that this does not quickly lead, as it has elsewhere in Albania, to wicked overtourism and the degradation of this corner of paradise.

As already mentioned, it is worth exploring Theth and its surroundings slowly, staying a few nights on-site . Despite the wide choice, not all accommodation is equally good and reliable, while there are others that offer nice stays in traditional centuries-old houses , providing a delightful immersion in local culture and food . Among the best accommodations in Theth , in our humble opinion, are: Bujtina Terthorja , Molla Guest House , Guest House Rrashkadoli , Shpella Guesthouse Theth , and Guest House Panorama . For basic but old-fashioned accommodations , you can consider Marash Rrgalla Guesthouse . Other great alternatives include Guesthouse Gjin Thana , Guesthouse Marashi , Bujtina Dreni , and Guesthouse Prrockaj Theth .

For an immersion in local history and culture , take a look at Kulla e Sadri Lukes , Kulla Pracja Theth , and Bujtina Te Kulla , where you can stay in ancient kullë – tower houses of Ottoman origin. These were once used as places of isolation for individuals targeted by blood feuds, following the ancient custom of the Kanun , but they have now been renovated and modernized with the comforts of modern life.

Accommodations in Valbona

The quiet village of Valbona provides access to a beautiful valley with numerous hiking trails and stunning vistas . It is the perfect place to spend a few days amidst the idyllic landscape of the Accursed Mountains . Whether it serves as your starting point or final destination on a hike from Theth to Valbona, or vice versa, consider staying here for at least one night. Easily reachable by car, especially after a scenic ferry ride along the road between Scutari and Fierzë , Valbona can also be a worthy destination in its own right.

Some of the best accommodations in Valbona are conveniently located near the trailhead to Theth . Among the top choices are Guest House Hyrmet Demushi , Hotel Margjeka , Bujtina Malaj , Hotel Krojet e Rrogamit . They offer clean and comfortable lodging in a traditional mountain style , just a stone’s throw away from the trail.

Other lodging options are scattered along the valley , accessible on foot (ranging from a few hundred meters to a couple of kilometers of easy walking). Among these, NeoKulla Hotel stands out as one of the most modern and cozy options in the valley, while traditional family-run guesthouses like Bujtina Valbonë , Guesthouse Demushi , and Hostel Rilindja also provide excellent choices. Given Valbona’s increasing popularity, it is strongly recommended to book well in advance , with a few weeks typically being sufficient. Keep in mind that the best accommodations tend to fill up quickly, especially those close to the hiking trail.

Essentials for Your Theth to Valbona Hike: A Practical Packing Guide

Embarking on the captivating Theth to Valbona hike is an opportunity to immerse yourself in the rugged beauty of the Albanian Alps . A journey that spans 3-4 days calls for careful consideration when it comes to packing. Keep in mind the mantra of simplicity: leave the non-essentials behind in your Shkoder or Tirana accommodation and focus solely on what’s indispensable for your alpine adventure.

  • Sturdy Hiking Boots: Your feet are your steadfast companions on this expedition. Prioritize comfort and protection by investing in a pair of sturdy hiking boots. These will be your trusty allies as you navigate the diverse terrain, ensuring each step is a confident one.
  • Insulating Rain Jacket: Nature’s moods can be unpredictable, especially in the mountainous realms. An insulating rain jacket is your defense against sudden weather changes, enveloping you in warmth and shielding you from unexpected showers.
  • Eye Protection and Sun Shield: The alpine sun can be unforgiving. Equip yourself with sunglasses, sunscreen, and a hat. These unassuming accessories serve as your armor, allowing you to bask in the breathtaking vistas without worry.
  • Reusable Water Bottle: The path ahead is a physical challenge, demanding adequate hydration to fuel your progress. A filtered drinking bottle is not just a vessel; it’s your lifeline. Quench your thirst and nourish your body as you conquer the trail.

Theth Valbona Trail Albania

  • Minimal Toiletries: Rest assured that guesthouses along the way provide basic toiletries like shampoo and soap. Pack only the essentials to lighten your load and minimize your environmental footprint.
  • Cash: In this remote wilderness, cash becomes your lifeline. Ensure you have sufficient local currency for unforeseen circumstances and interactions with local communities.
  • Extra Underwear and Socks: Don’t underestimate the luxury of fresh undergarments. Pack extras to stay comfortable and confident as you traverse the stunning landscapes.
  • Snacks and Lunch Materials: Keep your energy levels soaring with a selection of snacks and lunch materials. These provisions are your companions during brief respites, revitalizing you for the onward journey.
  • Camera: For the intrepid traveler, a camera is an extension of the soul. Capture the essence of your expedition, from towering peaks to serene valleys, and relive the journey for years to come.
  • Backpack: A dependable backpack is your mobile haven, carrying your essentials with ease. Opt for a 20-35 liter option, preferably water-resistant, to accommodate your belongings and adapt to changing conditions.
  • Small Travel First Aid Kit: Prioritize safety by packing a compact first aid kit. Address minor ailments promptly, ensuring your adventure remains a tale of triumph.

How to Get to Theth from Shkoder or Tirana

Venturing into the hidden mountain village of Theth may appear as a daunting expedition, but rest assured: getting there from Shkoder is surprisingly simple. You have a couple of options. You can book a guided tour from Shkoder or Tirana , which includes transport , accommodation , and all the essentials . Alternatively, you could ask your guesthouse or hostel in Shkoder to organize the trip for you. Prices vary widely, so it’s best to inquire with your host. While receptionists can often arrange your ride to Theth with just a day’s notice, it’s advisable to plan ahead, especially if you’re on a tight schedule.

During the season, minibuses (furgon) regularly depart from Shkoder to Theth in the morning, typically one per day. Expect to pay around €10 for a one-way trip. The bus usually leaves at around 7:00 AM and operates as follows: ask your host to book it for you, they inform the driver, and the bus will pick you up in front of your hostel or guesthouse between 7:30 and 7:45 AM. The journey to Theth takes approximately 2 hours. The same minibuses usually also travel the same route on the way back, the fares are the same.

For those traveling with their own car or those who prefer to rent a car , reaching Theth or Valbona is quite manageable, as both are now accessible via paved roads. Until a few years ago, reaching Theth was complicated, involving dozens of kilometers of driving on a rough and narrow dirt road. Today, even this last stretch is paved. However, keep in mind that if you choose this option, you won’t be able to do a one-way hike . You’ll still need to find a way back to collect your car from the starting point.

How to Get to Valbona from Shkoder or Tirana

Similarly, minibuses run from Shkoder to Valbona , involving an initial minibus ride from Shkoder to Koman , followed by an approximately 3-hour ferry crossing from Koman to Fierze , and finally another minibus ride from Fierze to Valbona . The entire trip takes at least 8 hours, and you should budget around €20-30 for the fare. Both villages can also be reached by taxi, but be aware that taxi prices are significantly higher.

How to Get to Shkoder from Valbona: A Scenic Return Journey

Once you’ve trekked the Theth to Valbona trail , the amazement of this adventure in the Accursed Mountains doesn’t end here! The return journey from Valbona to Shkodra is a scenic route that winds through the beautiful Lake Komani . It must be noted that local public transport is quite picturesque, and to get to Tirana or Shkoder , you need to first take a minibus to Bajram Curri and then another bus to your final destination.

Komani Lake Ferry in Albania, near Fierze and Valbona

But there is an alternative, certainly cheaper than a taxi ride to Fierze , from where the ferry departs in the direction of Komani along the road to Shkoder . A minibus departs every morning (around 10:30 am, but times may vary) from Valbona to Fierze , taking travelers to the ferries that cross the lake. You can book a ticket in advance for one of the boats that operate the ferry service on Lake Komani and, at the same time, purchase tickets for the minibus from Valbona to Fierze and from Komani to Shkoder. In total, for the entire journey from Valbona to Shkoder, expect to pay around €30, but you may encounter both cheaper and significantly more expensive offers.

The ferry crossing between Fierze and Komani is decidedly scenic : you will cross an untamed landscape, with the great Drin River flowing between the wooded mountains. It doesn’t even feel like you are in Europe; it is truly a wild and still largely authentic landscape. The navigation lasts 2 to 3 hours and is truly one of the highlights of the trip . The ferry docks in Koman , from where minibuses depart for Shkoder , which can be reached in a couple of hours.

Discover all our guides here ➜

Tirana

Things to Do in Tirana

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Ksamil: Beaches & Things to Do

National Parks Albania

National Parks in Albania

Dhermi Beach Albania

BALKANS ON THE ROAD

Discover the Balkans like a Local

Hello! I'm Mirko, a journalist and independent researcher who has lived and traveled extensively throughout the Balkans, from the bustling main cities to the most remote and authentically charming corners. I created this blog for travelers eager to discover the wonders of this region and delve deeply into its diverse countries and cultures. Here, you will find genuine advice from locals, inspiration, and comprehensive travel guides crafted in collaboration with residents. The goal is to help you travel like a local, uncovering the best of the Balkans in a conscious and ethical manner.

Im Jess Traveling

Valbona Pass (Valbona to Theth Hike): All you Need to Know

Hiking Valbona Pass on the Valbona to Theth hike was the highlight of my summer spent traveling through the Balkans.  The Valbona Theth hike is a A to B day trek that takes you through some of the most stunning natural landscapes in Albania.

If you’re a subscriber and reader of my blog (appreciate your support by the way), you would know that I love hiking, trekking and being in the mountains.  I always try to experience a big hike or trek in every new country that I am exploring.  In Albania, this meant trekking through the Accursed Mountains (Albanian Alps) on the Valbona to Theth trek.

I like to plan and be overly prepared when I embark on physically demanding journeys such as these.  In this post, I will go over 24 things to know before hiking Valbona to Theth or in reverse hiking Theth to Valbona.

This Albania hiking guide will cover everything you need to know and need to plan for including accommodation recommendations, what to pack, when to go and much, much more.  In conclusion, this will be the only post you’ll need to read about the Theth Valbona trek, ensuring the best possible experience.

Whether you are an experienced trekker or novice hiker looking for a challenging adventure in Albania, hiking through the Valbona Pass guarantees an unforgettable experience filled with adventure, beauty and memories that will last a lifetime.

Hiking Valbona to Theth Trek

For full transparency,  I have sprinkled some affiliate links in this post which gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you if you decided to make a purchase. As always, I would never recommend a product or service that I didn't truely believe in. If you find this post useful, you can also treat Jess to a cup coffee by clicking the icon on the bottom of the page. This will allow me to continue to create more content for you to enjoy ☕️. 

Valbona National Park

Table of Contents

About Valbona Pass (Valbona to Theth Hike)

  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Duration: 1 Day
  • Distance: 9.5km from Rrogam to Theth (15-16km from Valbona village, from trailhead to trailhead)
  • Peak Elevation: 5,760 feet at Valbona Pass
  • Total Cost Per Person: Roughly $175 per person based on a 3 night trip.

The Theth to Valbona hike is an adventure through the Albanian Alps.  This region is known for its pristine natural beauty and untouched landscapes.  The rugged mountain peaks, crystal-clear rivers and panoramic vistas make this hike a paradise for nature enthusiasts and photographers.

The Valbona to Theth trek covers a distance of up to 10 miles and can be completed in a day, although many hikers like myself choose to take their time and spend a few days exploring each area.

The trail starts in Valbona Valley and takes you up and over Valbona Pass.  The trail takes you through rocky terrain, dense forests and peaceful meadows before finally arriving in the traditional village of Theth.

Valbona Pass is where you will hit the peak elevation of 5,760 feet.  To stand on top of the pass is a small detour from the trail to Theth (Thethi).  We left our bags near the trail and made the short but steep climb to the top of the peak.  At this point, you’ll be pretty tired but don’t miss out on the bragging rights and the accomplished feeling of being able to stand on top of one of the tallest peak in the Albania Alps.

Once over Valbona pass, it’s all downhill from here.  There are a few steep sections but nothing that a sturdy pair of hiking boots and small steps can’t tackle.

Valbona Theth Vlog

Would you rather see for yourself what it’s like.  Joe and I filmed our entire trip as we adventured through the Albanian Alps.  You can check out the Valbona Theth hike vlog above after you read this post.

Also please subscribe or give us a thumbs up.  It doesn’t cost you anything and really helps us be able to continue creating free content for you to enjoy 🙂.

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Valbona Theth Hike Map

Here is a Valbona Theth Map of the hiking trail.

Valbona Theth Hiking Trail

24 Things to Know Before you Hike Valbona to Theth

Now that you’re inspired to tackle the Valbona also known as Valbone to Theth hike, let’s get you prepared for an adventure of a lifetime.

Valbona Theth Trek

Which Direction – Valbona to Theth or Theth to Valbona?

Since the Valbona to Theth hike is a point A to point B trail, you can hike it in either direction.  I personally hiked from Valbona to Theth instead of the later Theth to Valbona.

Which direction is better?  I’ve heard positives about both directions, just depends on who you talk to.  The most popular direction is Theth to Valbona.  In my opinion, hiking from Valbone to Theth is the best direction and here’s why.

  • If you’re not a huge hiker, you can arrange transportation to the trailhead which will lop off about 4 kilometers of your hike.  If you were hiking in the reverse, you would have to walk the entire way to find your guesthouse in Valbona.
  • It takes longer to get from Valbona to Shkoder (van-ferry-van) versus Theth to Shkoder (van only).  It’s always nicer to get the longest travel day out of the way first, thus after your Albania Alps adventure all you have to do is ride a minivan about 2 hours back to Shkodër.
  • It’s easier to arrange transportation from Theth back to Shkoder last minute versus the other way around.
  • You’ll spend the second part of the hike when the sun is most powerful mostly in the shade of the forest.
  • Theth is more of a village or at least it’s more concentrated together, spending the end of your trip in Theth is more “scenic”.  There is also a lot more to do in Theth (i.e. Blue Eye Waterfall, Thethi Church & Grunas Waterfall).
  • Valbona to Theth trailhead will be far less crowded than Theth Valbona trailhead.

Start of the Valbona Theth Trek

Where Does the Theth Valbona Hike Start

If you are hiking from Valbona to Theth , the official trailhead starts in Rragam .  Rragam is about 4 kilometers away from guesthouses in Valbona.  There are a few different ways you can reach the trailhead – hike, arrange a taxi or hitchhike half way.

Originally we were going to arrange a taxi to drop us off at the trailhead which we were quoted 30 Euros by our guesthouse.  This seemed pretty costly for a ride that would take less than 10 minutes.

We decided to try and hitchhike our way to the trailhead instead.  Within one minute of sticking out our thumbs, we were picked up by a ‘#vanlife’ guy.  This started our day out on a huge high.  Especially since we were pretty beat up from hiking Maja Rosit the day before. ← This Valbona hike peaked at 8,300 feet which is 2,500 feet higher than Valbona Pass!

If you are hiking from Theth to Valbona , you’ll be stoked to know that most guesthouses are located a lot closer to the trailhead than in Valbona.  Any of the guesthouses will be able to point you in the right direction but here’s the pinned trailhead on maps.me .

Valbona Pass

Best Time to Hike Valbona Pass

The best time to Hike Valbona Pass is during dry/hiking season which runs May to October.  July and August are the peak months, which mean higher crowds and hotter days.  For obvious reasons, it is not possible to hike during the winter months.

My advice is to embark on this journey during the shoulder season May – June or September – October.   There will be less crowds and the weather won’t be as brutal as peak season.  I hiked Valbona Thethi mid June and had amazing weather.

Beautiful Scenery on the Theth Valbona Trek

How Long is the Valbona Theth Trek

The Valbona to Theth trek covers a distance of up to 10 miles and can be completed in a day but you will want to give yourself at least a day in Valbona and a day in Theth to explore these scenic, remote, mountainous villages.  Of course spending a few days in each place is even better, which I will discuss in the next section.

The entire hike took Joe, myself and our new friend Ed a total of 8 hours to hike.  We also stayed in a village which was a 30 minute walk from Theth (I don’t recommend this 😅), stopped and flew the drone several times, enjoyed a long, cold coffee at Simoni Cafe and vlogged the entire way which tacked on several hours.  I also hiked Maja Rosit in Valbona National Park the day before and gave myself major blisters, so my steps were slow and little.

Most people will complete the Valbona Theth hike anywhere from 5 – 10 hours depending on a number of factors.  I.e. where you stay in Theth, if you get a ride to the trailhead in Valbona, how often you stop, etc.  Experienced hikers will be able to crush this hike in as little as 5 hours.  Start early and you shouldn’t have any problems.

Thethi Church

How Many Days – Albanian Alps Itinerary

Most people spend 3 days in the Albania Alps trekking the Valbona pass on the second day, with Valbona National Park and Theth National Park as the bookends to their 3 day adventure.  I personally spent 6 days on this adventure which I go into more detail in this post – Albanian Alps: 3-5 Day Hiking Itinerary for Valbona & Theth National Park .

If time is on your side, I recommend spending more than 3 days in the Albania Alps, there are plenty of other hikes and things to do in Theth and Valbona National Park that you won’t be able to experience unless you spend more time in Valbone and in Thethi.

Here’s what my itinerary looked like ↓.  Fore more details about a specific activity/event click on the blue links below.

  • Shkoder to Valbona via Lake Komani Ferry 
  • 2 Nights Accommodation in Valbona
  • Hike Valbona National Park
  • Trek Valbona to Theth
  • 3 Nights Accommodation in Theth

Day 4 & 5:

  • Theth Village , Theth Church & Theth Waterfall
  • Trek to Blue Eye Waterfall
  • Transfer from Theth back to Shkoder to pick up your luggage.

Im Jess Traveling at Grunas Waterfall

What is There to See on the Valbona to Theth Hike

The Valbona Theth hike provides stunning panoramic vistas, majestic mountains and lush greenery.  Along the way, you’ll encounter the gorgeous mountain views, tranquil meadows and dense forest.

Valbona and Theth village are two of the most beautiful places in Albania.  In the traditional village of Theth, you can explore ancient stone houses and the iconic Thethi church.  As well as the Blue Eye and Grunas waterfall.

Valbona is a bit more spread out and it’s a lot harder to explore without your own set of wheels.  If you have extra time in Valbona make sure to hit up some of the hiking trails, the views will not disappoint.

Lake Koman Ferry

How to Get to Valbona (Komani Lake Ferry)

Shkoder is the gateway town to hiking the Albanian Alps.  Most people breeze through the town, only spending one night before the early wake up call to start the journey to Valbona via the Komani Ferry.

If you have more time, I’d spend a full day exploring Shkoder as it has lots of cultural charm and natural attractions to explore.  If you want more information about Shkodër, check out the articles below.

📍 Read Next:   Best Things to do in Shkoder

Okay, back to the main point, how to get to Valbona from Shkoder.  The journey requires one roughly 2 hour minivan transfer to the ferry terminal at Koman.  From here it is a 2.5 hour scenic ferry ride on Koman Lake to Fierze.

Once the ferry has docked in Fierze, there’s another 1 hour minivan transfer to Valbona which the van will drop you off at your booked accommodation.  Try to resist the urge to sleep, the drive is breathtakingly beautiful as you wind along the gushing river.

The Komani Ferry Line runs everyday from Koman – Fierze at 09:00 am and from Fierze – Koman at 1 pm.  You can book tickets ahead of time with your accommodation in Shkoder, it’ll be a package deal or do it yourself online here .  You won’t save any money by arranging tickets yourself as it’s the same price.

Pickup from Shkoder is at 6:45am.  The Komani Lake Ferry is also a car ferry so if you plan on driving yourself, book car ferry tickets well in advance.

🎟️ Tickets Prices:

Bus from Shkoder to Ferry Terminal – 800 Lek (7€) Komani Ferry to Fierze – 1000 Lek (10€) Fierze to Accommodation in Valbon – 800 Lek

I don’t know if the Komani Lake Ferry just has an excellent marking program or it was just an extremely busy day, but when I rode the ferry, it was PACKED!  Joe and I ended up crawling over a car to snag a spot against the railing.  There was absolutely no room to move around.

I did see a few other ferries that were completely empty like this one Ferry Rozafa .  It doesn’t look as easy to book online so maybe if you contacted them for tickets, it’d be a better experience with far less people.

📚 Read Full Post:   Shkoder to Valbona via the Komani Lake Ferry 🎥 Watch on YouTube:   Shkoder to Valbona via Lake Koman Ferry

Shkoder, Albania

How to Get Back to Shkoder from Theth

To return to Shokder to from Theth is more simplified than getting to Valbone.  It’s one minivan ride to Shkoder which on the new road takes about 2 hours.

Minivans leave at 10 am in front of the only “grocery store” in Theth (mini market Jezerca) and cost 1200 Lek (12€) pp.  You can pay in Lek or Euros.  I booked our transportation from Theth the night before we left via whatsapp with Thethi Transportaion.  They were very prompt on the response and spoke perfect English, here’s the #355 69 556 7089.

You can also book transportation back with your accommodation in Theth, there were several minivans, all the same price and seem to all work together in some sort of fashion.

📚 Read Full Post:   Theth, Albania Travel Guide

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What if I’m Driving

There is no road that connects Valbona and Theth, that’s why the Theth Valbona hike is so popular.  If you are driving, you can drive from Shkoder to Theth which is about a 6 hour drive and from here, hike from Theth to Valbona, stay the night in Valbona and then hike back to Theth the next day.

Or you can drive to the Komani Ferry Terminal and transport your car to Valbone via the ferry like I mentioned earlier.  Hike to Theth, stay in Theth for one night then hike back to Valbona to pick up your car and ride the ferry back to Shkoder.  Both of these options mean that you would be hiking Valbona Pass twice, which doesn’t sound to appealing.

Another possibility is leaving your car parked in Shkoder and making the trip via the public transportation listed above and pick up your car when you return to Shkoder.  You could also hike up to Valbona Pass and turn around and hike back.

Trekking Valbona to Theth

Luggage Storage for the Valbona Theth Hike

Where to store your luggage?   For obvious reasons you won’t be trekking with all of your luggage up and over Valbona Pass.   We stored our bags at the Bed Station Hostel for 6 Euros a day per bag.

You can book luggage storage online here .   The hostel is located in the middle of the pedestrian street which is central to most hotels in Shkoder.

☕️ Read Next: 10 Best Places to Stay in Shkoder

The Theth Valbona Hiking Trail

What is the Trail Like?

The trail is well marked and if you are starting in Valbona, it begins on a paved road for until you reach the mostly dry riverbed which takes you to the trailhead of the Valnona to Theth trek.  This section is about 5 km, roughly an hour and a half.  The riverbed is a rocky terrain and there is a part where you have to strategically step on specific rocks to cross the river.

From the Valbona Theth trailhead, you’ll begin to ascend up the mountain through a wooden area passing a few small farms until you reach Simoni Cafe.  At this point, you’ll be ready for a proper break.  Here you can grab a cold frappe coffee, fill up your water bottle and use the toilet.

From the cafe, you’ll begin your last final push and ascent to the top of Valbona Pass.  This is the most difficult part of the hike as it winds up the stony mountain face .  Don’t forget to look back as it offers amazing views!

Im Jess Traveling on Valbona Pass

Once atop Valbona Pass, you’ll be tempted to continue on your descent down the mountain.  Don’t do this just yet.  Drop your bags near the trail and clammer up the slippery path to top of the peak.

There’s nothing quite like standing on the tippy top of one of the highest peaks in the Balkans.   Warning, this small detour trail is steep, slippery and slidey   especially on the way down.  Slow and steady wins the race.

The descent down to the next cafe takes about 45 minutes.  Then it’s another 2-3 hours down, down, down through a dense, wooded, peaceful forest.  There are a few steep sections but again, nothing you can’t handle.

Beautiful scenery trekking Valbona to Theth

Parts will be Grueling – Difficulty?

Overall the hike isn’t too difficult.   Don’t get me wrong, there are a few grueling parts on the ascent and the last 2 miles seem to last forever but nothing even a novice hiker can’t handle. 

Peak elevation at Valbona Pass is only 5,760 feet so altitude sickness shouldn’t be a problem.  If you pack smart and light, the breathtaking views and memories far outweigh a few moments of when you’re gasping for air.

Cafe Simoni on the Valbona Theth Trek

Food and Water on the Trail

Would you believe me if I told you that there were a couple cafes along the trail where you can order coffee, frappas, water, beer and even rajika?   Yep, 3 cafes to be exact, I think this was my favorite part of the hike.

If you’re trekking from Valbona to Theth as I did, the first cafe (Simoni Cafe) you’ll encounter is after you’ve already clocked in some elevation gain, just before your last push.   It will be a sight for sore eyes . 

The cafe is shaded with benches and tables.   We ordered iced frappa coffees and it was luxury in a glass.

1st cafe on the trail

There is a fresh natural water spring that you can drink out of and full up your water bottle.   #winning There is no livestock at this elevation so you don’t have to worry about the water being contaminated.

The toilet here is also one of the nicest bathrooms I encountered in all of Albania.

The other 2 cafes are after the Valbona Pass.   I personally didn’t stop at these cafes but the first one we came upon on our way down the mountain, we ran into some girls from our homestay in Valbona and they said the pancakes were out of this world.

Is There Cell Service?  Wifi?

Cell service was hit and miss.   For the most part, you’re able to get service but there were definitely a few parts of the trek where you were without it.   I also didn’t have an Albanian SIM card so it could be a different story if you have one.

Theth Church in Theth

Do You Need a Guide on the Valbona to Theth Hike?

You don’t need a guide to complete the Valbona Theth Trek.   The trail is well marked and fairly popular so you won’t be alone on the trail. 

It is possible to hire a mule to carry your bags if you’re carrying too much weight.   You can stow your bags in Shkoder (I’ll go into more detail about storing your bags next) and if you pack smart, you shouldn’t need to hire a mule.

If you are short on time or want to join a small guided trek to meet fellow trekkers, check out the tours below.  They have 5 star reviews, work out all the small details for you and have English speaking guides.

From Tirana or Shkoder: 4-Day Valbona and Theth Hiking Trip

From Tirana: 3-Day Koman Lake, Valbona and Theth Hiking Tour

The Albanian Alps

Do I Need a Map?

The Valbona to Theth trail is well marked so a physical map won’t be necessary.   If you type into GoogleMaps Valbona Theth Hiking Trail , the trailhead will pop up.   You’ll still have to get yourself to the trailhead whether you walk, arrange a taxi or hitchhike like I mentioned earlier. Maps.me also works great.

There’s a visitors center in Valbona that you can stop in and scan a QR code which will give you all the information that you need.   Here you’ll also be able to look at a physical map that is hanging on a wall so you’ll have a better idea of where you’re going.

Cow on the Valbona Theth Trail

Can I Hike the Valbona to Theth Hike Solo?

You can definitely trek solo.   We saw several solo trekkers and hiked with one the whole way to Theth.   We met him in the van that picked us up hitchhiking as he was hitchhiking too!   Hi Ed 👋 .

As always with solo hiking, let someone know where you’re going, bring a medical kit, enough snacks and what not.   It’s super easy to meet people on the trail, so I have a feeling you won’t be trekking by yourself for much of the hike.

Grunas Waterfall

How Much Does it Cost

If you are traveling on a budget , the Valbona Theth Trek is a great thing to do Albania. Below I’ll list the average cost of this excursion based on 3 nights – 1 night in Valbona and 2 nights in Theth.

Transportation:

  • Getting to Valbona from Shkoder via the Komani Ferry – 2800 Lek.
  • Theth to Shkodër – 1200 Lek
  • Optional Ride to the trailhead – 30 €
  • Total = 30-69 € PP (33-76 USD)

Accommodations in Valbona and Theth:

  • Valbona Accommodations – average $40
  • Theth Accommodations – average $60 per night
  • Total = 127 € or $140

More than likely breakfast will be included in the price of your guesthouse.   Most guesthouses will also offer dinner for 10-12 euros per person.  Portions are plentiful and who can say no to a home cooked meal?!

  • Dinner – 30 €  or $33 Per Person
  • Snacks, waters, victory beers – $30
  • Luggage storage in Shkoder  – 6 €
  • Total = 33 € or 37 USD

Grand Total = $173 per person.  This is splitting the cost of a room, not including a ride to the trailhead and pricing dinners out at 10 Euro per person.  Of course this can be more or less depending on what style of accommodation you book and if you stay longer than 3 days.  I’d bring a little extra cash as well for miscellaneous expenses and for emergencies since there are no atm machines in Theth or Valbona.

Valbona Theth Hiking Trail

Cash is King

Shkoder will be the last place to take out money before you start the journey to Valbona or Theth.  Understandably, there are no ATM machines in Valbona or Theth , so make sure you bring ample cash to pay for your accommodations, food and victory beers along the way.

If you’re in a real pickle, the mini market Jezerca in Theth can give you cash back if you charge your bank card for something in the store.  I never had to resort to this but I’m sure the fee is pretty hefty, but it’s nice to know that there is a safety net if you are in a pinch.

Accommodation in Valbona

Accommodation on the Valbona Theth Trek

There are plenty of guesthouses in Valbona and Theth to choose from depending on your travel style and preferences.  Most if not all the accommodations in Valbona and in Theth will require you to pay cash once you arrive at the property.  Breakfast will also be included in the price of accommodation.

These are the best places to stay in Valbona and the best places to stay in Theth for all budgets.

Valbonë: Villas Jezerca – $$ Comfortable, Clean and Peaceful. Vila Alexander B&B – $$ Location & Attention to Detail BUJTINA Valbonë – $$ Views & Central Location Villa Dini – $ Secluded in Nature Guesthouse Skender Selimaj – $ This is where I personally stayed, it was very affordable, delicious food and great location to the Rosi Trailhead hike. Theth: Molla Guest House – $$ Views, Food and Authenticity. Guesthouse Marashi – $$$ Great location close to Theth Church Bujtina Miqesia – $$ Views and Location Guest House Rrashkadoli – $ Albanian hospitality at its finest. Bujtina Kometa – $ This is where I stayed but it was a 40 minute walk to Theth which wasn’t super enjoyable after 2 tough days of hiking.  Very affordable, clean, great views and lovely hosts though!

Camping on the Valbona Theth hike is pretty common.  There are a handful of campgrounds in Valbona and campgrounds in Theth, many of which have showers and what not.  A lot of the guesthouses allow you to pitch a tent at their place as well for a small fee, which comes with breakfast.

Our new friend Ed was camping on this trek and he found a campground higher up on the trail to pitch his tent.  It was probably like a 20-30 minute walk down to Theth but he was leaving the next morning so it didn’t matter and I was super jealous of him as we were still 2 miles from our stay.

Valbone, Albania

How to Prepare for Hiking Valbona to Theth

As I’ve mentioned earlier, even if you are a novice hiker, you can complete the Theth Valbona hike so training isn’t totally necessary.  Of course, being physically fit will be beneficial for this hike.  Make sure you book your accommodations in advance, buy snacks for the trail in Shkoder (options are limited and much pricier in Valbonë) and get ready to unlock some core memories.

Theth to Valbona Hiking

Pack Smart, Pack Light

If there is one thing I’ve learned about trekking, it’s to pack smart and to pack light. I unfortunately learned this the hard way when I trekked my first multi-day trek on the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu .

Here are a few key items you should bring with you on the Valbona Theth Hike.

  • Danner 600 Hiking Boots
  • Northface Rain Jacket
  • Ear Warmer 
  • Hiking Pants
  • Flannel or Warm Fleece depending on what month you’re visiting Theth.
  • Life Straw Water Bottle
  • Hiking Poles (optional)

It’s so Worth It

Parts will be tough, packs will get heavy, but it’s so worth it!    You will pass through and witness some of Albanias most beautiful landscapes.  As they say, the views are worth the climb or maybe I just say that 🤔.   So tighten up your laces, charge your gopro and set out on an adventure that you’ll never forget.

☕️ Read Next:   16 Amazing Places to Visit in Albania

Top of Maja Rosit Peak in Valbona National Park

Tips Recap for Valbona to Theth Hike in the Albania Alps

  • There are no Atms in Valbona or Theth .  Bring ample cash.
  • Comfortable, broken in and sturdy hiking shoes are a must.
  • If planning on taking your car on the Komani Lake Ferry book your tickets weeks in advance.
  • Stow your luggage in Shkoder here.
  • Accommodations will require a cash payment when you arrive at the property.
  • Breakfast will be included in the price of accommodation.
  • Pack light.

Lastly, if there’s anything I missed that you think would be beneficial to future hikers, let me know in the comments below.   I try to keep my guides as up-to-date as possible, so share your experiences and any useful information that could help out your fellow travelers.  

If you are planning your trip to Albania, I spent 1 month traveling around this beautiful country so check out the travel guides below.

Albania Travel Tips

📍Plan your Trip: 16 Amazing Places to Visit in Albania Renting a Car in Albania 🗺 How long to travel Albania? 3-6 Day Albanian Alps Hiking Itinerary 1 Week Albania Itinerary +Bonus Days 🛂 Visas: Up to 90 Days on arrival for most countries. ☔️ Best Time to Visit:  Peak season = July & August.  May, June, September & October = Less crowds & costs. 💰 Average Daily Budget:  Expect to pay 50 USD’s a day for basic accommodations, sit down meals at a cafe and entrance fees. ⛺️ Albania accommodation Guides: Where to Stay in Berat Charming Hotels in Gjirokaster Best Places to Stay in Shkoder 13 Best Hotels in Saranda 🪂 Highlights Tirana's Coffee Culture Berat - a Town of a Thousand Windows Trekking Valbona to Theth N.P. Gjirokaster Castle The Albanian Riviera Shkoder - the Gateway to the Albanian Alps Theth National Park Lake Komani Valbona Valley National Park Peak of the Balkans for the experienced Trekker 🧳 What to Pack : What to Pack for Albania 🎥 Watch our Albania Series on YouTube Get on my Email list to see what I’m up to and all the best travel content!

↓ Other Noteworthy Hikes Around the World ↓

Looking for more worldwide trekking adventures?  I have only just started to properly document all of my hiking/trekking excursions.  Below are a few hikes that stand out from the rest.

15 Things to Know Before Hiking the Salkantay Trail

Trekking Colca Canyon | World’s Second Deepest Canyon

Hiking through the World’s Largest Dormant Volcano 

Hiking Acatenango Volcano – Overnight Trek in Guatemala

Enjoy this Post?!?! Pin in for Later ↓

Theth to Valbona Trek Tips

Woa…thank you for so much great information! I have been wanting to travel here and you have highlighted some things for me to add. Do you have to be concerned with wild animals….bears, boars, mt lions, etc while hiking? I’ve also read about old land mines to be watchful of when hiking. The Theth- Valbone hike sounds well traveled so I doubt I have to be concerned about mines on that one. Thank you for sharing so much. Wishing you continued great travels. There is sooooo much beauty to see and experience in this world! 🙂

imjesstraveling

Hi, thanks for the comment. There was no concern for any of those animals that you mentioned and I never heard anything about land mines. I loved this trek, not only was it beautiful but there were cafes to break at along the way. I hope you are able to travel here soon. XX

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Valbona Theth Hike in Albanian Alps: A Step-by-Step Guide

Here is everything you need to know to be well-prepared for the Valbona Theth hike in Albanian Alps.

The Valbona (Valbone) to Theth (Thethi) hiking trail is located in the Accursed (Prokletije) mountains, Northern Albania. It is a spectacular one-way day trek between two idyllic mountain villages.

Originally an old mule route, the trail winds through the heart of Valbona Valley and Theth National parks. Halfway it crosses over the epic Valbona Pass, offering the most stunning vistas of the Albanian Alps. Accursed Mountains’ landscapes of snow-covered peaks and lush valleys are shared between Albania , Kosovo, and Montenegro .

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

Trekking over the legendary Valbona Pass in Accursed Mountains deserves to be at the top of your must-do things list in Albania. In fact, hiking from Valbona to Theth along with the Komani Lake ferry ride were the two activities that inspired me to visit this less-explored Balkan country.

Once I started planning for the hike, I realized that it is not as straightforward as I would expect the one-day trek to be. Although it only takes 6 to 10 hours, the Valbona-Theth hike, due to its remoteness and logistics, requires 3 days in your Albania travel itinerary . The journey has multiple changes of minivans and a ferry ride.

I know that at first glance it may seem a bit too much of an effort to be put into one day trek, but trust me it is all worth it. With a bit of advance planning, the journey to Albanian Alps will be one of the best experiences this country can offer you.

Keep on reading this post where I share all the practical tips, answer the most important questions and provide a step-by-step guide that will help you to get ready for the unforgettable Valbona-Theth trekking adventure!

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

Note:  This post contains affiliate links, which means that I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase by clicking a link. This helps to keep my blog growing and filling up with detailed honest travel advice for you. 

Valbona Theth Hike in Albanian Alps- Everything You Need to Know Before You Go

Valbona-theth hike highlights video (1-minute cinematic footage).

Before we jump into planning, I invite you to watch this video to get a little bit of a taste of what to expect on your Albanian Alps journey. I was documenting our Valbona to Theth hike from the start to finish and compiled it into a short moody 1-minute cinematic clip. Enjoy watching!

Valbona-Theth Hike Overview

Distance: 9.5 KM from Rrogam to Theth trailheads (12 to 19 KM from Valbona to Theth, depending on your starting and ending points).

Duration: 5-8 hours of moving time, depending on your speed and distance (6-10 hours with stops).

Difficulty Level: moderate to difficult (depends on your fitness level).

Minimum and Maximum Elevation: 780 m and 1800 respectively.

Elevation gain and loss: 800 m and 1018 m respectively (direction Valbona- Theth).

Mobile network and Internet connection: poor or none (weak signal available closer to the villages and at the peak).

Is a guide needed? The trail is well-marked, thus, a guide is optional.

Minimum water requirement: carry 2 liters (several refill spots available at water springs and mountain cafes).

Kids friendly? Small kids no, age 8-10+ yes.

Summary: Valbona-Theth hike features steep inclines and declines with a mix of sandy and rocky terrain, some scree slopes and a few boulder sections, forest paths, leveled walks, several water sources.

STEP 1. Albanian Alps Trip Itinerary and Map (route Shkoder-Valbona-Theth-Shkoder)

When planning the Valbona Theth hike, you should dedicate 3 days as a bare minimum, where 2 days are for traveling and 1 day is for the hike itself. You might also want to spend longer if you are planning to do other hikes in Valbona and/or Theth.

We could only spend 3 days in the Albanian Alps, therefore, our itinerary looked as follows:

  • Transfer from Shkoder to Komani Lake Ferry by minibus with hotel pick up at 6:30 am
  • Boarding the ferry from Koman to Fierze at 9 am
  • Minibus from Fierze to Valbone at 12 pm
  • Arriving at accommodation in Valbone at 1 pm, overnight in Valbone.
  • 6 am drop off at the end of Valbona village (closer drop off possible in Rrogam)
  • Valbona to Theth hike
  • Overnight at Theth village
  • Exploring Theth village early morning
  • 12 PM minibus to Shkoder (pick up at accommodation in Theth)
  • At 3 pm returning to Shkoder

If you prefer to have everything organized for you, check out this 4-day Valbona Pass hike and kayaking tour starting from Tirana which includes accommodation, transportation, and food. Click here for prices and availability.

Route Map: Shkoder-Valbona-Theth

STEP 2. When is the best time to do Valbona Theth hike?

The hiking season in Albanian Alps starts around May and lasts until mid-October, depending on the ever-changing weather.

  July and August are good months to complete Valbona-Theth hike because most of the snow on the trail will have melted by then. Also, the rainfall possibility is much lower. The downside, though, it is also a peak hiking season, hence, the trails get very busy.

I would say, September must be a perfect time to do this hike as there are fewer people on the trail and the weather is still good. While shoulder season in May-early June could be an option. However, chances are that paths will be still covered in snow and ice.

Finally, winters are known for heavy snowfalls. That means it would not be possible to trek from Valbona to Theth in winter. We hiked in July and still came across a section of snow that was a little sketchy and required extra caution to pass it.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

It is also worth noting that mountain weather is still very unpredictable. Even in summer, you can expect heavy rainfall to appear out of the blue sky. Therefore, it is always a good idea to constantly check weather forecasts.

As mentioned before, our girls’ group hiked during the last week of July. The worst weather during the whole trip caught us by surprise while driving from Berat to Shkoder. Skies and weather forecasts predicted heavy storms and lightning throughout the next few days, including areas of Valbona and Theth. We were concerned that the hike might not even happen.

However, we had the best luck with the weather changing completely on our hiking day. Each and every weather forecast website predicted heavy rains and thunders while in reality sun was shining early morning, followed by beautiful clouds at the peak in the afternoon, and not a single raindrop ever after.  

Hence, this is just proof of how unpredictable mountain weather can be. But remember to always be prepared for the worst of it (but expect the best as we did).

STEP 3. Which Way is Better: Valbona to Theth, or Theth to Valbona?

I advise hiking from Valbona to Theth. After completing the trail, I was glad that I chose this direction rather than the opposite.

Here are the 7 reasons (in no particular order) why hiking from Valbona to Theth is by far a better option:

  • The journey from Shkoder to Valbona village is long with multiple transportation changes. However, you will still arrive at Valbone early enough to take a good rest before the next day’s hike. Also, it is better to deal with all this long commuting at the beginning of the trip rather than at the end when you are exhausted from the long hike (trust me you will be).
  • The trail on Valbona side starts with a more gradual ascend and a good amount of leveled walk. Only the last bit closer to the peak is steeper, and even that still has some straight surfaces to give your legs a break.
  • The path from Valbona Pass down to Theth village is mostly in the forest. On a hot afternoon, it will be an advantage.
  • The path from Theth to the peak is a constant incline, with no leveled breaks. We saw many people coming from Theth side who looked completely out of breath and miserable.
  • The trail starts in Rrogam- which is around 4km or more away from Valbona (where all the accommodation is). However, you can always arrange a ride to drop you at the trailhead, or at least at the end of Valbona village. This way you will save at least an hour of walking which you most likely couldn’t avoid if you were coming from Theth side (as there simply be nobody to give you a ride).
  • The trail leading from Valbona to the peak is more scenic, to my opinion, therefore it is great to enjoy it while you are still full of energy and driven by the purpose of reaching the peak. On the way down, once in the forest, you will most likely feel tired and willing just to get over the rest of the hike as soon as possible.
  • It is more pleasant to hike the exposed Valbona side early morning than in the afternoon to avoid the burning heat during the summer months.

What about trekking one way to the peak and back?

Some of you may wonder if trekking to the peak and back is feasible. I would say, not really unless you absolutely have to. Some blogs advise trekking from Theth to Valbona pass and back. However, you would be missing out on a more beautiful side of the trail on Valbona side. Moreover, you will have to hike a more physically demanding section of constant incline and decline of over 1000 meters. If you were to choose Valbona to Valbona Pass and back direction, then you would be missing out on the Theth side. Theth village is more charming than Valbona. Moreover, the ride from Theth back to Shkoder is also stunning.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

STEP 4. Valbona-Theth Transportation (how to book mini vans and Komani ferry tickets)

How to get from shkoder to valbona using komani lake ferry.

The trip to Valbona mountain village, which is around 200 KM away from Shkoder, involves using ground and water transport: 2 minivans/minibusses and 1 ferry ride. Route Shkoder-Koman-Fierze-Valbona is by far the best way to go. 

The journey will take around 5-6 HRS starting with an early morning pick-up from your hotel in Shkoder. I advise you to pack some breakfast/lunch as there won’t be many options for food on the ferry (we only ordered a cup of coffee to go along with our takeaway sandwiches).

A breakdown of the journey from Shkoder to Valbona:

  • 6:30-7 AM pick up from Shkoder accommodation
  • 7 AM- 9AM: minivan/minibus from Shkoder to Koman Ferry terminal
  • 9 AM – 11:30AM: Koman Lake Ferry to Fierza
  • 11:30 AM- 1 PM: minibus from Fierza Ferry terminal to Valbona accommodation

It is also possible to drive from Shkoder to Valbona directly for around 5 hours, but it is definitely a more exhausting way. Also, I am not sure if a 4×4 is required for this drive. And most importantly, you would be missing out on the highlight of this section- the Komani Lake Ferry ride.

Komani Lake Ferry is an attraction and a real treat on its own. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful boat trips in the world, but still is relatively unknown! A 2.5 to 3 hours long ferry ride will take you through the so-called Albanian “Fjords”. Indeed, you will be surrounded by high cliffs while gliding through narrow gorges in the turquoise waters of the beautiful Komani Lake. The scenery reminded me of Thailand, and it felt like we were not in Europe anymore.

komani lake ferry albania

Komani Lake Ferry Itinerary and Tickets

BERISHA FERRY with minivan services

The easiest way to arrange this whole trip is to book everything (including the minivan) using one of the most popular companies Berisha. You can make reservations for both ferries and minivans on their website . Note that Komani Ferry runs daily from April to November.

The ferry ticket price with Berisha is 7 EUR (800 LEK) which will be discounted by 20% when booked online and paid by Paypal. Ferry also has limited space for cars for 7EUR per square meter (you have to measure the surface of your car to get the price-strangest thing I’ve ever seen).

How to book a pick-up service for the whole Shkoder-Koman-Fierze-Valbona route with Berisha?

We have reserved our journey to Valbona in advance using the Berisha website. The total cost of the journey was 18 EUR (2500 LEK) per person with door-to-door pickup and drop-off. Berisha also offers transfer services from Tirana (from the bus station).

In order to book the whole trip, you will have to fill in the form on the Berisha website here , indicating the date of travel and the name of your accommodation in Shkoder if you are going from there. The instructions and costs of all the services are provided here . You can only pay online for the ferry, while the remaining 12 EUR for the minivan you will have to pay in cash to the driver (both EUR and LEK are accepted).

USEFUL TIP: Berisha ferry is very popular during peak season in July and August. Therefore, it is mandatory to book tickets in advance to ensure your seat. We booked everything a couple of weeks before our trip.

Berisha Ferry or Boat Dragobia?

There are two types of ferries offered by Berisha company- Ferry Berisha and Boat Dragobia, both depart Komani at around the same time at 9 AM. Ferry Berisha is a much bigger 3-level boat with the capacity for cars and motorbikes. It also offers more space to move around on the “ground level” open deck, the upper deck with seats, and the roof cover. Therefore, it is much better for taking pictures. Inside seating space with the coffee shop and bathroom is also available. Dragobia, on another hand, is a long-tail passenger-only boat with seating inside only. Therefore, views from it will be different, and more difficult to take cool pictures.  

journey to valbona

Other Komani Lake ferry options

Besides, Berisha, there are 2 other companies operating in Komani Lake: Rozafa Ferry and Alpin Ferry .

ROZAFA FERRY

Rozafa was parked next to our Berisha ferry and was much emptier than the latter. I was even tempted to make a swap as Berisha was really busy. However, Rozafa ferry doesn’t seem to have such a well-developed service, and I am not sure that booking online is even possible (I tried opening their website with no luck, but they are active on their Instagram account). Nevertheless, in case you need to catch a ferry last minute, it seems like you can easily get a seat in Rozafa without any advance reservation. Rozafa also departs from the Koman Lake ferry terminal at 9:00 AM.

ALPIN FERRY

More upscale and much bigger, the Alpin ferry offers an opposite timetable than Berisha and Rozafa. It departs from Koman to Fierze at 11 AM and is slightly more expensive- 8EUR for a passenger. This option would suit those of you who are willing to go to Valbona later in the afternoon. You can make ticket reservations on the Alpin website. Note that you will then have to arrange your own ground transport from Shkoder to Koman and from Fierze to Valbone if you choose this ferry. I am certain you can organize a car from Shkoder through your accommodation, but I am not sure how it works from Fierze to Valbone. Chances are there might be minivans waiting to pick up travelers without a need to reserve in advance.

How to Get Back from Theth to Shkoder?

Getting back from Theth to Shkoder takes only 2.5-3 hours as the windy mountain roads have recently improved. You can book your seat in a minibus through your accommodation in Theth a night before the trip .

The minibus departs at 12 PM every day and will pick you up from the place you stay in Theth. We reserved seats in a minibus to Shkoder immediately after our hike once we reached Theth guesthouse. Our hosts made a quick call and it was done.

I believe there must be multiple buses operating daily, especially during the hiking season as there are many tourists and locals traveling from Theth to Shkoder. Still, once you have your accommodation in Theth booked, it doesn’t hurt to email your hosts and asks them to book a minibus for you in advance.

Can I drive to Valbona or Theth?

UPDATE: the road from Shkoder to Theth village has been paved and now any type of vehicle can access the village. The same goes for the road to Valbona- you can drive any vehicle to Komani Lake Ferry station and then from Fierza to Valbona.

If you have a 4×4, you could drive to Theth or Valbona. I am not sure if you need 4×4 for Valbona though, but for Theth, I would say, you should avoid sedans as roads at some parts closer to and in the village are not everywhere paved. However, the big disadvantage of going in your own car is that you will have to hike back to either Valbona or Theth (depending on where you leave your car) or make a massive loop back to either of the towns via Shkoder. This option doesn’t make much sense, obviously.  

Looking for car hire in Albania? Check Localrent which offers the best rates and conditions for renting a car in Albania!

Rent a Car in Albania

Look for the best rates for your rental car at Localrent.

ALSO READ: Ultimate guide to renting a car and driving in Albania.

theth road albania

STEP 5. Accommodation in Valbona, Theth, and Shkoder

SHKODER is the northernmost biggest town in Albania at the banks of Skodra (Skadar) Lake. It also serves as a base for trips to the Albanian Alps with a good variety of places to stay before and after your mountain trip.

Both VALBONA and THETH have guesthouses that can be booked through booking.com or other accommodation booking platforms. I always check reviews and prefer booking homestays. Hosts of which always prove to be very hospitable, often including free breakfast and homemade dinner at a reasonable rate, Moreover, they are willing to help with any logistics-related queries.

When booking accommodation in VALBONA , check the map and try staying closer to Rrogam side if you are planning to walk to the trailhead from the guesthouse. Although you can easily book a drop-off with your accommodation. Valbona village, differently from Theth, is very spread out along the long riverbed of the Valbone Valley. It also has fewer guesthouses to choose from.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

For THETH , after finishing the hike, we had to walk an extra 30min to our accommodation which was close to the Theth church. I have picked this location simply because of the convenience to take some images of the beautiful church at sunset. However, you can find guesthouses that are just outside Valbona-Theth trailhead.

Do I need to carry my heavy-duty luggage with me when going to the mountains?

No, you don’t. Since the Valbona-Theth is a very popular one-way trek, most travelers leave their big luggage at a hotel in Shkoder. Many accommodations in Shkoder will allow storing your main luggage (usually for a small additional 1 EUR fee) for the days you are away hiking. That means you don’t have to worry about dealing with your huge suitcases and just take the bare minimum for those 3 days. Remember, you will have to carry everything with you from Valbona to Theth.

It is feasible to book the same accommodation to stay at before and after your mountain trip (taken you are staying a night in Shkoder after coming back from Theth). Also, it is always a good idea to read travelers’ reviews on booking sites to see what they are saying about luggage storage at a particular hotel or guesthouse.

USEFUL TIP: if you are traveling during the peak season, I highly recommended booking accommodation in advance to make sure you get the best guesthouses to stay at.

We were really happy with our choice of accommodation in Valbona, Theth, and Shkoder. Therefore, the following are my recommendations for the places to stay in Shkoder, Valbona, and Theth:

  • Shkoder: we stayed in two different accommodations before and after the hiking trip. Both are very different but great places to stay, and they also allow you to store big luggage while you hike. HOTEL LEGJENDA – artsy vibe chalets with exceptional quiet surroundings, garden, pool, ground for campervans, walking distance to Rozafa Castle (go there for sunset), 4km from Shkoder city center. All Seasons Apartments – a self-contained very cozy new two-bedroom apartment in the heart of Shkoder but still on a quiet street. The owner of the apartment was extremely helpful and kind- I would stay there again.
  • Valbona: VILLAS JEZERCA – cozy chalets with fantastic mountain views, delicious food and amazing hospitality of the family running this accommodation. They prepared us takeaway food for the hike and dropped us closer to the trail at the end of Valbona free of charge (it added us just 3km of a beautiful walk along the river bed to Rrogam where the trailhead is).
  • Theth : Guest House Bec Villi – lovely traditional village guesthouse featuring a beautiful garden, serving delicious homemade food. They also can help organize minibus back to Shkoder. Guest House Marashi – a bit more upscale Instagrammer-loved stylish wooden rooms, some of which have bathtubs inside the room overlooking the mountains and/or lovely private terraces. Great homemade food is also served at this guesthouse.

Camping Valbona and Theth

As far as camping goes, there are no restrictions as such where you can pitch your tent, at least along the trail. You can also find designated areas for camping in both mountain villages for a small fee. On the trail, you may want o camp somewhere with water access. We met a lady who was planning her overnight camp in the mountains. From what we saw, water access was next to mountain cafes, one of them at the very beginning of the trail on the Valbona side, while the other one was around two-thirds into the trails closer to Theth side.

theth guesthouse albania

STEP 6. Valbona to Theth Hiking Trail: Terrain, Length, and Difficulty

Valbona to Theth hike is moderately challenging featuring breathtaking views of the Albanian Alps trough out the whole route. Here are all the answers to the questions I had and therefore, I believe you may have as well, about the Valbona Pass trail.

VALBONA TO THETH HIKE DIFFICULTY

Valbona to Theth hike can be rated as a moderate plus hike. The route is well-marked and features a good variety of rugged terrain, sandy mountain, and forest paths, some scree, and a few boulder areas. It has steep inclines but with portions of leveled walk allowing for rest. The decline after the Valbona pass is mostly continuous, with a very little leveled walk. That is why if you hiked from Theth, it would be a tough workout (people coming from that side looked out of breath).

The trail is not technical and does not require any special equipment (except hiking poles which could be useful to have but not a must).  

People who claim to be unfit are still successfully attempting this hike. We saw hikers of different age groups and fitness levels trekking.

Definitely, there are parts to struggle through, especially at steeper ascends and descends, however, go at your own pace, take as many breaks as you need and you should be just fine. Also, the maximum altitude is only 1800 meters, so you should not be affected by the altitude.

VALBONA TO THETH HIKE DISTANCE

The distance of the whole hike will depend on the starting and finishing points. The official trail length is 9.5 KM. It starts in Rrogam and finishes in Theth. However, it is very likely that you will be covering much more ground if you start from your accommodation in Valbona. It could easily add at least 4KM to the trail (or even 9 KM, if you stay far from Rrogam).  Also, you will definitely have to walk a little bit to your guesthouse in Theth. Some of which are situated a few kilometers away from the finish line.

We did in total 19 KM, 9.5 KM of which was part of the walk from and to the villages. Our starting point was at the end of Valbona village (that’s where we got dropped off by our hosts). You can arrange a drop-off at Rrogam, which requires a 4×4 car and may be subject to additional fees. Since we didn’t pay for a lift, I am not sure how much it would be, but I read online it may cost around 20 EUR.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO HIKE FROM VALBONA TO THETH

Hiking from Valbona to Theth can take anywhere from 6 to 10 hours. It depends, on how fast you go and how many breaks you take. Very fit hikers can make it in under 5 hours (but this is pure running through the trail, which is not fun to me).

Also, it depends on the distance you are meant to cover (as explained above).

According to my Wikiloc recording, it took us 9 hours to complete 15.8 KM (we started 3.5 KM before Rrogam- where the trailhead is) with 6 hours of moving time. It makes an average speed of around 2.6 KM. We spent around 1 hour at Valbona pass taking pictures and enjoying the views. A remaining couple of hours were distributed between shorter stops at mountain cafes and random breaks. Note that it took us additional 40 minutes to get to the guest house in Theth from the finish line, totaling almost 10 hours and 19 KM of hiking.

AT WHAT TIME SHOULD I START HIKING TO VALBONA PASS?

I can’t stress enough- you must start early. Unless you are planning to run through the trail like an athlete, you should start trekking from Valbona as early as 6-7 AM, or  8-9 AM latest. This will give you ample time to complete the hike at an average walking pace, plenty of time for breaks, and finishing with daylight.

Also, if it is a sunny day, starting early would allow you to avoid the boiling summer heat on the exposed side from Valbona to the peak. Moreover, there will be fewer people on the trail breathing back to your neck.

We took off at 6:30 AM because we wanted to avoid big groups of hikers which usually take off later. Also, finishing before the late afternoon storm which was predicted for the late afternoon. We have successfully avoided both, except the Valbona peak crowds. Unless you leave at night, chances are by midday everyone will arrive at the peak and there will be big groups of hikers hanging around.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

VALBONA TO THETH HIKE DIVIDED INTO SECTIONS

To give you a better idea of what to expect, and, therefore, how to allocate your time, I have split the hike into the following sections:

Section 1: flat walk over the rocky riverbed to the trailhead- 3.5KM.

This is the easiest section which starts as leveled walk for 3.5 KM from the end of Valbona village to the trailhead in Rrogam. You will be passing over a dry rocky riverbed surrounded by pine trees, and towering peaks of Accursed mountains dominating the background. There is no incline in this section.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

Section 2: getting used to the incline- 2.5 KM.

During the next 2.5 KM from the Rrogam Theth trailhead sign, the path starts ascending. At first slightly, but then it gets steeper and tougher but still with good portions of flat surface walk. At the beginning of this section, you will pass some farmhouses that also operate as guesthouses, and Emanueli café (which we skipped as it was too early for a break). After the café, you will realize that the climbing business is getting serious. The trail starts to present more rocky terrain and much steeper inclines than before. Pace yourself, there is more to come.  

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

Section 3: steep ascent before the summit – 1.6 KM.

Let’s mark the start of the 3 rd section with Simoni café where you can have a mountain tea (or coke) break before the real hike begins. Immediately after passing Simoni café, you will start tackling rocky and steep terrains. Soon after a short stretch in the forest, the beautiful valley view starts to open up and you will be hiking the bare mountain face. Welcome to the toughest but extremely scenic part of the trail.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

Section 4: conquering Valbona pass – 700 M.

The last bit, before reaching Valbona pass, is a narrow road winding around the side of the mountain. Here we faced a couple of minor challenges.

One was a 15 meters long chunk of snow hanging over a cliff. It was only two feet wide. Thus, it took a little bit of courage to pass a narrow slippery snow path- but I guess it looked scarier than it was dangerous.

Second, which I was more concerned about than the snow, was a pure scree slope. At that section, the path was completely gone for a distance of a few meters. We had to carefully step through it- the slope was steep, angled at around 35-45 degrees. Not to scare you off, just go slowly watching your steps and you will be fine.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

Section 5: Valbona pass and the summit- 200 M.

Once you reach Valbona pass, you will enjoy the panoramic views of the valley and Accursed mountains from two sides. Note, that the flat space at the pass is quite small, and it got very crowded shortly after we reached it.

Luckily, you can climb another 200 meters to the vantage point on the left. Not everybody is willing to go higher up because of the steep sandy path. Once at the top, you will be able to walk further to the right side or continue even higher up to the other peaks.

You might feel already tired, but it is definitely worth the effort. I went a little bit further away from the hotspot and was completely alone enjoying the glorious views of the Prokletije mountain range, peacefully flying my drone.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

Section 6: steep descent through the forest to the last mountain café- 2 KM.

Path to the other side of the Valbona pass is a steep descent through rocky terrain and a beautiful forest. Views of the mountains and valleys appear sparse, but on a hot day, you will be relieved to have shade. In this section, you will reach the last café simply called- Bar Café Restaurant. Take a break here as there is still some ground to cover and your knees may not like it.

Section 7: continuing steep descent through the forest to Theth – 5.3 KM.

The last bit of the trail is the most painful. The steep descent is really hard on the knees. Moreover, there are parts with loose gravel where you should take extra caution not to slip and fall. I have to admit this bit was my least favorite- it felt long and boring. Despite going through beautiful forest and bits of alpine meadows, I was still looking forward to finally reaching the guesthouse in Theth, which, to make things tougher for us, was another 3 KM away from the trail end.

The total distance of the trail we did was 15.8 KM (from Valbona to Theth trail end). But in total, we walked around 19 KM because we chose the guesthouse which was a bit further away. No regrets though, as the location of our accommodation was fantastic.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

STEP 7. HOW TO PREPARE FOR VALBONA THETH HIKE

Having done many long day treks in the UAE , I already know by heart what works best on hikes. In Valbona to Theth scenario, however, I had to plan well for 3 days because, for everything I took, I had to carry on a hike.

The most important piece of advice I can give you for this hike is to take the absolute minimum and only items you cannot survive without. Wear the clothes that you will hike in, including boots. Take only a lightweight change of outfits for the final day. Leave whatever you won’t need because every, even the smallest thing you take, adds up to the weight of the backpack. 

WHAT SHOULD I BRING AND WEAR FOR VALBONA THETH HIKE?

Being well-prepared for any hike is crucial. However, you have to pack for 3 days, you have to filter absolute must-takes from the fancy additions to your trekking gear. Here are my notes on the Valbona Theth hiking essentials.

HIKING GEAR AND FOOD

Hiking Boots: I recommend not messing around with footwear and getting yourself proper waterproof hiking boots with a good grip . Although people still do this hike in sneakers, however, it is safer and more comfortable to wear sturdy hiking shoes which will protect your ankles and reduce the risk of slipping and falling.

Windbreaker/Raincoat: In Albanian Alps, rains are unpredictable and the wind on the top of the mountain is strong. Therefore, a proper waterproof windbreaker, for example, like this Colombia jacket , is a lifesaver.

Layer Up: Wear a couple of light layers of sweat-absorbing fabric tops for your own comfort: a t-shirt and a long-sleeve thermal shirt . For colder weather, especially mornings and evenings, instead of a heavy hoody, lightweight fleece is the perfect option.

Water: Luckily on this hike, there are at least 2 spots to refill your water reservoir. The first one is at Simoni Café after almost 6 KM hiking from Valbona trailhead. The second one is at the Café Bar Restaurant when descending to Theth. And I believe there were some water streams along the way too. Therefore, I only carried 2 liters of water in my Camelbak bladder as opposed to at least 5 liters which would be usually needed for this type of hike.

Food: We took our takeaway breakfast and lunch from the guesthouse in Valbona. The guys packed us so much bread that we would have survived for a few days. We also had some protein and snickers bars with us. Luckily, if you finish all your snacks early and get really hungry, the second café on the descent to Theth served some basic food.

Comfortable Backpack with Water Bladder: a comfortable backpack that fits what’s needed for a day hike, and has proper padding, waist, and chest holders, goes long way on long hikes. Consider getting a water bladder with a straw instead of a usual refillable water bottle. Something like this Camelbak serves to be very useful when distributing the weight in the backpack equally, plus no need to remove it each time you want to drink (because of the easily accessible straw).

Trekking Poles: optional, but I wish I had them when descending, it would have reduced the load on the knees significantly. For a day trek, the best are lightweight foldable hiking poles, like these Cascade Mountain Tech walking sticks .

Sunscreen, cap, and sunglasses: On a sunny day you may get sunburned easily, therefore a small bottle of strong sunblock is a must. The same goes for a cap and sunglasses.

First Aid Kit: a basic plaster for blisters and some Panadol at least to be on the safe side.

Waterproof Cover for the Backpack, Gear, and Documents: rains in Albanian Alps are ruthless, so make sure you not only have protection for yourself but also a good waterproof cover for your sensitive items such as photo cameras and passports.

NAVIGATING VALBONA THETH TRAIL- IS IT WELL MARKED?

Valbona-Theth trail is marked with a red painted circle with a white dot in the middle, or red-white-red painted flags throughout the whole trail. Those markings appear very often on the trees and rocks (say every 50-100 meters or so).

Moreover, you can pre-download the trail on the Wikiloc app which also works offline. I have recorded this trail on my Wikiloc account here .

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

INTERNET CONNECTION ON THE TRAIL

Internet connection was weak around Valbona and Theth villages and mostly unavailable during the hike (we got some signal at the peak though).

DO I NEED A GUIDE FOR VALBONA THETH HIKE?

If you are comfortable navigating mountain trails and have done some longer hikes before, you won’t need a guide, especially knowing that this trail is well-marked. I would only advise a guide for those people who have never done any long-distance hikes in the wild mountains before. Even then, this trail is very popular and you will definitely see other people trekking, which also will give you more confidence doing it without a guide.

IS IT SAFE TO HIKE VALBONA PASS SOLO?

For an experienced hiker, it is absolutely fine to do the Valbona Theth trek alone. Note that it might not be the case for everyone, especially those people scared of heights.

If I had to do this trail on my own, I would confidently go ahead. Besides, if you are on your own, you most likely will find other hikers to pair up with.

valbona theth hiking trail in albania

CAN KIDS HIKE VALBONA THETH TRAIL?

The hike is quite steep, with few exposed sections, and also very long. Therefore, I would say it is not suitable for young kids, but for older ones, starting 8-10+ who are used to hiking, should be fine to do it. I have to admit, we haven’t seen kids during the whole hike, but we saw elderly people doing that (true inspiration to look up to).

IS VALBONA THETH TRAIL DOGS FRIENDLY?

We saw stray dogs at Valbona pass, so yes dogs can walk this trail too. The only thing that I am not sure about is if it is allowed to have your dog on a minibus or a ferry. We have not seen pets on public transport while traveling to the mountains.

Other things to be aware of while hiking on Valbona Theth route

There are wild animals in the Albanian mountains: wolves, bears, and lynxes.  We could hear wolves howling far in the mountains when we were at our Valbona guesthouse. However, wild animals don’t like interacting with people and wouldn’t go to the trails. That being said, make sure you stay on the marked route and don’t wander anywhere far inside the forests.

What if I have luggage that I cannot/do not want to leave in Shkoder?

The only way to solve this dilemma is to base yourself in Valbona or Theth and hike halfway to the peak and back to your base. It is not an ideal option, but it is there if you do not have another choice.

BUDGETING VALBONA THETH HIKE: expenses breakdown per person

Transport from Shkoder to Valbone: 18 EUR for the whole trip, including Komani ferry.

Transport from Theth to Shkoder: 10 EUR (1200 LEK) for a minivan.

Accommodation in Valbone: 15 EUR including breakfast (45 EUR for triple chalet).

Accommodation in Theth: 10 EUR including breakfast (30 EUR for triple room).

Dinner: 8-10 EUR for 1 dinner.

Drinks at the mountain cafe: 2 EUR per drink.

Total cost: approx. 75 EUR per person

USEFUL TIP: Take cash because there are no ATMs in Valbona and Theth villages. Both LEK and EUR are accepted at transport and guesthouses.

To Sum Up:  the main 5 tips for Valbona Theth Hike

  • Choose the hiking direction from Valbona to Theth (instead of the reverse).
  • Leave your main luggage in Shkoder at a guesthouse or hotel and take the bare minimum because you will need to carry all your stuff with you on a hike.
  • Reserve accommodation and ferry tickets in advance (at least 2 weeks) if you are travelling during the peak season
  • Bring cash as there are no ATMs in the villages.
  • Account for unpredictable weather and bring a good waterproof jacket and covers for your most important items.

Last but not least, please keep the trail clean, and take your trash with you.

If you have any more questions about this hike, drop me an email. Otherwise, I wish you safe and enjoyable hiking!

A LITTLE BIT MORE ABOUT THETH (THINGS TO DO AND SEE)

The sleepy alpine village of Theth comes to life during the hiking season. With clusters of guesthouses sprinkled along the dreamy valley walled by Accursed mountains, Theth today is an ultimate hiker’s base camp. Regardless of its growing popularity, Theth is very atmospheric. The time seems to have stopped here, you can see piles of hay dotted around the village, and meet herdsmen with their sheep peacefully roaming around.

Theth is considered to be the more picturesque of the two mountain towns. Therefore, it is also a good reason to spend more time there exploring other things this charming mountain village has to offer.

herdsman with sheep in theth albania

Theth Church- a little gem for beautiful photography

A highlight, and probably the most photographed object in the village, is a small 19th-century stone-and-shingle Theth church. It is hidden further away from the main gravel road, toward the end of the village. I advise visiting the church at dusk when it gets lightened up. Its silhouette against the tall mountains with burning orange sunset skies looks incredibly mysterious.

theth church in albania at dusk

Lock-in Tower of Theth

Hundreds of years old historical structure which was used to imprison the deadliest criminals back in the olden days, Lock-in Tower of Theth is now one of the main tourist attractions. You may visit it as well on a guided tour led by one of the descendants of the family this tower belonged to.

Drink Coffee with a view

Opposite the Lock-In tower, we came across a simple cafe. At first, we didn’t pay any attention to it as we were headed to see the tower. Soon a friendly local on a motorbike showed up and invited us to sit on the terrace, from where fantastic views of the mountains open up. It was a fantastic start to the late morning a day after our long Valbona hike. I highly recommend checking this no-name café out.

theth village

Go on Day Hikes from Theth

Although we only had time for one night in Theth, we would have loved to stay a few nights more and go on other hikes around the area.

The most well-known is the hike to The Blue Eye of Theth , which is around 17 KM (6 hours) return trek to the turquoise alpine pool. I have already added it to my bucket list for my next trip to Albanian Alps!

theth river albania

ALBANIA TRAVEL RESOURCES

Planning your trip to Albania soon? Below are some useful links to help organize your trip.

  • My TOP TIP : The best way to explore Albania is by self-driving. Look for the best rental car rates at Localrent or Discover Cars .
  • Best flight deals: Use Skyscanner to find the cheapest and fastest flights to Albania from your location.
  • Accommodation: book your perfect stay using Booking.com .
  • Before You Go: 90-day tourist visa is free for most nationalities; if not apply for an Albania visa easily at iVisa .
  • Travel insurance : for safe traveling in Albania. Get a quote at SafetyWing .
  • Guided tours: look for the best-rated Albania tours on GetYourGuide and Viator .
  • Local SIM Card: Get a sim at Tirana airport arrivals hall. The best coverage is provided by Vodafone. A tourist pack with 70 GB of data and free local calls costs 2000 LEK (17 EUR).

More Albania Travel Resources:

  • Driving in Albania: everything you need to know before renting a car
  • Plan your trip to Albania with my suggested Albania road trip itinerary.
  • Check how to spend a day or two in Tirana with my detailed Tirana Itinerary.
  • Do you want to explore more of the Balkans? Check out my Epic 2-week Montenegro Road Trip Itinerary .

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Hi! I am a freelance photographer & videographer as well the creator of www.theroadreel.com. Born in Lithuania, and currently residing in the UAE, I have been traveling around the globe independently for over a decade. I created The Road Reel to share my passion for travel and photography through detailed road trips and city itineraries, and hiking guides, along with regular and drone photogragraphy tips.

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Digital Nomad & Female Travel Blog

Hiking Theth to Valbona: 4 Day Albanian Alps Itinerary

February 11, 2022

If you love mountain adventures but haven’t yet heard of the Albanian Alps, this is your call to head that way next summer! This region is spoiled in natural beauty, and the secret is slowly getting out. Imagine purples hued mountains against pink sunsets, hiking alongside turquoise streams, and taking a dip in the many springs and waterfalls you find along the trail. The most popular route for enjoying the highlights of this area is hiking Theth to Valbona. Here is a complete 4 day Albanian Alps Itinerary covering this exact route, plus all the must-see side hikes nearby!

theth to valbona hike

Where Are the Albanian Alps?

The Albanian Alps are a mountain chain located in the northeast corner of Albania. The closest “big” city is Shkoder, which most travelers will transit through to reach this region. Interestingly, this mountain range also has another name, Prokletije which means The Accursed Mountains in Serbian. The origin of the mountain’s name is not clear, but some say the “curse” came from a woman who was trying to escape through the mountains.

When to Go to the Albanian Alps

You can safely hike the Albanian Alps from late May until the end of September. Coming in spring can be hit or miss, as there could still be snow on the trail so it’s not advised until late in the season.

Summer is peak season, so the days are longer allowing you to take your time on the trails. However, the midday heat is real, and you’ll have to start early to avoid doing the hardest part of the hike in the blazing sun. This is also the busiest time to hike and you’ll see a lot of people on the trail. Blue eye waterfall will be completely full, shoulder to shoulder.

I’ve been told the beginning of autumn is a great time to hike, as the heat simmers down, and the crowd thins out.

sunset in the Albanian Alps

Should I Start in Theth or Valbona?

There is an argument for both cases. Starting in Theth means starting the hike with a very steep ascent up to the Valbona Pass that takes about 2 – 3 hours. After that, you cruise through the remaining 4 – 5 hours of the hike going downhill or on almost flat ground.

Starting in Valbona means a very easy beginning to the hike – virtually flat for at least an hour. Then a gradual incline for 4 – 5 hours, until reaching Valbona Pass. After that it’s smooth sailing.

If you prefer to knock out the hardest part of the hike early in the day, before it gets really hot, I’d start in Theth. The steep part here is also mostly in the forest, so you have some shade while busting your ass. If you like slow and steady elevation gain, and don’t mind that it’ll be longer and in mostly exposed areas, start in Valbona.

Side Hikes in Theth

There are also a few side hikes on this itinerary you can’t miss, all starting in Theth. If you prefer to do a lot of small hikes before a big hike, start in Theth. If you’re worried the smaller hikes will wear you out before the big one, start in Valbona.

Theth Church in Theth village on the theth to Valbona trail

Why I Started in Theth

For me, I chose to start in Theth village because I knew I wanted to go on the boat ride through Komani Lake at the end of the trip, which departs from Valbona. I felt it made more sense to save the boat ride for the end of the trip then to do it at the beginning, therefore starting in Theth made the most sense.

Where to Stay

For your backpacking trip through the Albanian Alps, you’ll likely be staying in guesthouses. These are simple, yet often charming little bed and breakfast types of properties. You often have breakfast included, and dinner as well with a small extra fee.

Stay in Fushi-Theth

Whether you’ll choose to start in Theth or Valbona for your hike, when you do make it to Theth, be sure to stay in Fushi-Theth. It’s another area within the Theth Village itself.

It’s much closer to the trailhead for most of the day hikes you’d want to do while in Theth. For photography enthusiasts, Fushi-Theth is where the iconic Theth Church is located so you’ll want to stay nearby for prime sunset and sunrise photo lighting.

Book a Guesthouse

I stayed in a guesthouse called Zariklis because my hotel in Shkoder recommended it. It was comfortable enough, but I will say that the shower is very simple (think Vietnam countryside, with the spiders too) and I remember after dinner we were all still hungry!

I’ve heard great reviews from others on the trail who stayed at Shpella Guesthouse nearby, which apparently has a fabulous dinner, and lunch too. Perhaps give this one a try if you are a big eater like I am.

stuffed eggplant in Albania

How to Book a Guesthouse

I had my hotel in Shkoder book my guesthouse in Theth since it was my first point on the trip. They just make a call to reserve under your name, you’ll still pay in cash onsite.

As for booking in Valbona or later on in the trip, I’d say wing it. I went in peak hiking season, and was able to find vacancy everywhere. This way if you have delays due to weather or find another place you’d rather stay on arrival, you can be flexible.

How to Prepare

Before heading to Theth, you’ll need to prepare the same way you would for any backpacking trip. Here’s how to plan and prepare for hiking village to village in the Albanian Alps.

Check the Weather

Even if you visit in peak summer, the weather conditions in the mountains are subject to huge fluctuations. You will definitely want to check the weather forecast the week leading up to your trip, and especially the 2 nights before you depart.

If you find that it will rain heavily, I’d honestly make alternative arrangements. The rain here comes down hard, making it impossible to hike. Even if you are stubborn and you manage, you’ll have no view at all.

If you’re considering coming anyway and just holing it up at your hut, you can. But it’s really cold in the mountains when it rains. Put simply, it’s not worth it.

Be Flexible

The ideal situation is to have some flexibility. If rain is predicted, spend a few days in Shkoder instead, or do a small trip. You can head to Montenegro or somewhere nearby in Albania like Durres for beaches, or Tirana for a city break.

The main idea is to have a back up plan. For me, there was heavy rain predicted on the third day of my hike. So I cut my itinerary short to squeeze the trip into 3 days, spending only 2 in the mountains.

How to Pack

When packing for your hiking trip from Theth to Valbona, you’ll want to bring as little as possible since you’ll be carrying everything on your back. If you will take the coach from Shkoder to get here, you’ll have to transit back through Shkoder. I’d advise leaving most of your stuff at your hotel here. They may charge a small fee, but they should be happy to hold onto your luggage.

Since it’s now possible to self-drive to Theth, you could also leave your luggage in your car.

Valbona pass on the Theth to Valbona trail

What to Bring

After leaving most of your things in Shkoder or your car, pack a waterproof backpack with the following items for the actual hiking:

Clothes to Pack

  • 2 hiking tops (you can hand wash these in Theth, the sun is strong during the day they’ll dry)
  • 1 pair of hiking shorts
  • hiking shoes (wear them)
  • 1 pair of yoga pants (in case it gets cold)
  • 2 sports bras
  • socks for everyday
  • underwear for everyday

Toiletries to Pack

  • travel sized shampoo, soap, conditioner (the guesthouses don’t always provide)
  • your essential skincare
  • sunblock (very important!! SPF 50+)
  • mosquito spray (although I didn’t find many mosquitoes)
  • microfiber towel

Tech Gear to Pack

  • phone charger

Essential Gear to Pack

  • waterbottle
  • mini first aid kit (bandaids and septic)

Things to Know Before you Go

girl in a spring in the Albanian Alps near the Blue Eye Waterfall

I didn’t see a single ATM during my time in either Theth or Valbona. Be sure to bring enough cash to avoid any problems. You should bring enough to cover accommodation for 3 nights, food, transportation to Theth and to Komani, and a bit extra for emergencies. I brought about $200 USD and it was way more than enough.

Fitness Level

The hike from Theth to Valbona is probably doable for most people, but there is a part of the hike that is very steep. This part lasts about 3 hours. Towards the end of the hike, you spend a lot of time walking along the riverbed. This means walking over huge pebbles and rocks which can be tiring.

I’d advise people to be honest with themselves about their fitness level. If you are reasonably fit, you can definitely complete this itinerary. If you’ve never done a multi-day hike before, strongly consider cutting off one day of hiking. In my opinion, the blue eye waterfall is a must-see, so I would cut out Denelle from the below itinerary if needed.

Take a Rest Day

Another option is to integrate a rest day before doing Theth to Valbona, to allow your muscles to heal before doing the biggest hike of the trip.

I’ve found the trail from Theth to Valbona to be moderately well marked. While there are signs along the trail, they are quite far and few in between. The trail is pretty obviously marked, but you’ll feel safer having a digital map just in case.

I’d recommend downloading Maps.me . Not only does this offer accurate offline maps of the trail from Theth to Valbona, but it’s almost the only option. Google Maps in The Albanian Alps, and Albania in general, was always incorrect.

Getting There

trees and mountains in the Albanian Alps

Up until as recent as this year, it was impossible to self drive yourself to the Theth to Valbona trail due to bad roads. I’ve heard that the road has finally been paved, so for those who want to rent a car and drive to Theth, you totally can!

For the rest of us, we will take a minibus from Shkoder to Theth or to Valbona. You can book these directly via your hotel or hostel while in Shkoder. If you are for some reason staying at neither, just pop into a hotel and ask them to book it for you.

It should cost about 600 leks, about $5.65 USD one way, cash only.

Starting the Hike in Theth

From Shkoder to Theth takes about 2.5 hours, depending on the traffic and how many stops the minibus takes. For us, there was a lot going on on the roads that day and we arrived in Theth at about 11am, 3 hours after departing Shkoder.

If you are going by minibus, they will pick up passengers between 7am – 8am, so you can expect to arrive around 10:30am – 11am. The minibus seats less than 20 people and is quite comfortable. You’ll have a rest stop along the way with your first sweeping view of the Albanian Alps.

Starting in Valbona

If you prefer to do the trip in reverse, you’ll take an early 6:30am minibus from Shkoder to Komani (700 Leks). There you can board the Berisha Ferry (800 Leks) that takes you through the gorgeous Komani Lake, to Fierz, from which another minibus (700 Leks) will take you to Valbona arriving at around 1:30pm.

Doing this route means you’ll take the ferry at the beginning of your trip. Depending on your preference, you may choose this route because of that, or opt to do the route the traditional way (going to Theth first).

Things to Do in Shkoder

Sunset view of Shkoder from above

You journey to the Albanian Alps starts and ends in Shkoder. Before or after you start your journey, you should plan to spend a day or two exploring the city itself. This city is very charming in it’s own way and is well worth a couple days of exploring.

Check out Shkoder Castle, rent a bike and ride around the lake, check out the old town, and try some authentic traditional food at Fisi Restaurant .

Day 1: Shkoder – Theth – Denelle – Theth

For this article, I’ll give the itinerary for starting the hike in Theth. If you are taking the minibus or driving in the morning, you should arrive in Theth around 10 – 11 am. This is plenty of time to drop off your things, have a quick lunch, and head off to explore.

You guesthouse can prepare a take away lunch for you on request to save you time. This usually consists of a sandwich with veggies (no meat), a hardboiled egg, tomatoes, and a block of feta cheese.

Theth church at sunset on the theth to valbona trail

Hiking to Denelle

Duration: 5 – 6 hours roundtrip

Elevation Gain: 900 meters

Distance: 5.5 miles/ 9 km

Difficulty: moderate

If you want to start off the first day with a hike, you can head to Denelle, which can be reasonably completed within that afternoon. To find the trail, look up Denelle on Maps.me . The trailhead starts by crossing the river.

The hike starts off steep, with a 3 hour ascent until reaching Denelle itself. Since it will be afternoon when you start, take it slow and bring plenty of water – it will likely be very hot. Luckily most of the ascent is in the forest, so you aren’t as exposed.

Halfway to Denelle, you’ll reach a viewpoint of a beautiful valley. This is a good spot to take a break and have a snack. Another hour or so from there, you will reach Denelle, a beautiful plain surrounded by mountains. Spend some time here relaxing, until going back down the way you came back to Theth.

Day 2: Theth – Grunas Waterfall – Blue Eye Waterfall – Theth

On the second day, wake up with the sun to enjoy those stunning colors of sunrise. Seriously, the sunrise here was among my top favorites I’ve ever seen. So many gorgeous pastel colors painting the mountains and clouds, plus the peaceful ambience of a village still asleep.

Theth Church

a girl in front of theth church at sunset in fushi-theth village

If you are a photographer, head straight to the iconic church in Fushi Theth. This is partly why I advised for you to stay in this area, for easy access to the church for sunrise shots! You can find the church on Google Maps under the name Kishi E Theth .

Once you’ve taken your photos and had a morning stroll around the village, head back to your guesthouse for a nice breakfast likely ready for you. Pack up your day bag and don’t forget a bikini! Today you are heading to the waterfalls.

Hiking to Blue Eye Waterfall

Duration: 6 hours roundtrip

Elevation Gain: mostly flat

Distance: 12 miles/ 19 km

Difficulty: easy

On this day, you’ll want to pack your swim clothes, because you’re going to the waterfall! To get to the trailhead, you’ll have to cross the river again. From here you have the option to make a small detour to Grunas Waterfall if you want.

Grunas Waterfall

This waterfall is taller than the blue eye but not nearly as impressive. It’s also likely to be crowded since it’s such a short distance from the village. I’d advise that you rather check it out on the way back, when it may clear out for the day.

grunas waterfall in Theth in Albania

Blue Eye Waterfall

The walk to the Blue Eye Waterfall is not difficult, since it has very little elevation gain and remains mostly flat. Just keep an eye out for the trail, because it’s not always obvious. You can do this by following the arrows painted onto the rocks of the riverbed.

You can reach the Blue Eye in about 2 – 3 hours depending how frequently you stop. 30 minutes before reaching the falls, you will have a bit of elevation gain. Because of the heat, I found this bit challenging and had to stop a few times.

Arriving at Blue Eye Waterfall

Once you arrive, you’ll find a beautiful pool of the deepest and brightest shades of blue with it’s own little waterfall.

Blue Eye waterfall in the Albanian Alps

If you start early enough you MAY even have it somewhat to yourself. I arrived around 3 – 4 pm and it was incredibly crowded, with people competing for space to even sit!

If you are dreaming of a more peaceful experience, try to start the hike earlier. Maybe if you leave Theth at 9 – 10am, you’ll beat the crowds.

Also if you are considering swimming, you should know that the waterfall is incredibly cold, even in the sun.

Other Springs on the Trail

Instead of catching hypothermia at the Blue Eye, on the way back to Theth you will pass at least one or two beautiful turquoise pools. At least once of these are more shallow and exposed in the sun, so it’s warm enough for a dip.

I found a random pool about 20 minutes on the way back from Blue Eye, and it was my favorite part of the day. Soaking in the water, exploring the little waterfalls and pools, and enjoying the 360 mountain views.

a girl in a water spring in the Albanian Alps near the Blue Eye Waterfall

Back to Theth

On the way back to Theth, you’ll go back the way you came. If you started early enough you’ll have some daylight left. I could advise taking a small break once back in Theth at a little cafe called Kunora e Grunasit . It will be directly on your way back to Fushi-Theth.

It’s a cute little cafe, with hammocks and chickens running around, plus really quaint views of the mountains. Especially in the afternoon golden hour, I found this place so relaxing. You can order a coffee or beer to finish off your hike of the day.

Day 3: Theth – Valbona Pass – Valbona

a girl overlooking Valbona Pass on the Theth to Valbona trail

Duration: 7 – 8 hours (10 hours for beginners/ photographers who stop a lot, 5-6 hours for experienced hikers)

Elevation gain: 1000 meters +

Distance: 11 miles/ 17 km

Difficulty: strenuous

For the last day of hiking, you’ll want to get up early again. Soak in that sunrise lighting one more time, have a good breakfast, pack up some food for lunch, and head off. The reason everyone advises you to start early is to beat the heat. You have until about 10 am until the sun starts to feel really strong. With that said, don’t forget the sunblock.

If you stayed in Fushi Theth, you’ll have to walk to Theth to reach the trail.

You’ll have 3 hours of steeply ascending the mountain. This takes you partly through exposed switchbacks, and partly in the forest until you reach Valbona Pass. About halfway up, you’ll reach a cute cafe with a terrace and garden. This place is a great place to refill water with the fresh ice cold water fountain. If you want to relax more, you can order some snacks, coffee or even cake here. The view is quite nice.

Valbona Pass

From this cafe, you have another 1 – 1.5 hours of trekking steadily uphill, mostly in the forest so you’ll at least have some shade. Once you surpass the tree line, then you are pretty close. You have about 30 minutes of hiking on the exposed trail until you reach the highest peak of the whole trip.

A girl overlooking the valley from the Valbona Pass on the Theth to Valbona trail

You’ll know you’ve arrived when you can see mountains from all sides. If you want the highest viewpoint, just climb a bit further up the steep rocky slope straight ahead. From here, take a break, soak in the view, take a nap (I did), and of course take plenty of photos.

The hike after the pass is pretty easy since it’s all downhill so take your time up here and enjoy your accomplishment.

Simoni Cafe

On the way down be sure to drink plenty of water as it would be midday now and extremely hot. Don’t worry about conserving water, since you have a refill point less than an hour from the peak at Simoni Cafe .

This little cafe is more like a little drink stand on the side of the road. You can order fresh local tea, yogurts, coffee, beer or even rakia if you dare. Take advantage of the toilet and water refill station while here.

There is also a little seating area in the shade to relax. Nearby, there is the small Rrogami Waterfall which you can make a small detour to visit if you wish.

Valbona Village

window view at sunset from a guesthouse in Valbona

The rest of the hike is pretty boring to be honest. You are descending down in the forest on a pretty rocky and uneven trail which requires attention and careful footing. You’ll go on like this for about 2 – 3 hours until reaching Valbona Village.

The last part of the hike is walking on the riverbed itself, on flat but super rocky terrain. This part of the hike is exposed and can be very hot. I also saw some pigs running around in this part of the trail alongside the trees.

Jezerca Guest House

Once you reach Valbona Village, you can relax for the afternoon at your guesthouse. If you still have energy, go for a quick walk to explore the village by heading to the old Valbona Mill while walking along the river.

As for where to stay, if you have the energy to walk to the other side of Valbona village (maybe an extra 15 minutes) I’d recommend Jezerca Guest House . This guest house is on the cutest property! It’s home to ducks, chickens and so many little animals, plus a wonderful outdoor eating area with fairy lights and a pond.

Jezerca Guesthouse garden in Valbona

I was able to stay here for around 12 euros a night, breakfast included. It’s the best deal in the area for comfort and amenities.

Day 4: Valbona Village – Komani Lake – Shkoder

If you stay overnight at Jezerca Guest House, they can help you book your trip back to Shkoder via Komani Lake onsite. It will cost about 2200 leks ($22 USD) which need to be paid in cash. You can have a late start to your morning as the shuttle doesn’t come until around 10:30 am.

The minibus will pick you up, and drive you through some beautiful valleys and scenery to Fierz, where you’ll have another hour or so to relax until your ferry leaves.

Komani lake view from the boat in Albania

Komani Lake

If you are strategic, you could wait to board the Berisha Ferry from 20 minutes prior to departure. This would allow you to choose your seat, instead of sitting on the floor like I did! Most people who chose, picked a seat at the front of the boat. No worries if you don’t secure one, you can just sit on the floor at the tip of the boat which is comfortable enough.

The ferry ride lasts for about 2.5 hours, and takes you through stunning scenery of green mountains peaks cradling the lake itself. It really feels for a moment like being back in Thailand.

Once you dock in Fierz at around 3:30pm, it’s another 2 hours in the minibus until you reach Shkoder around 5:30pm in the afternoon.

And that wraps up your perfect 4 day itinerary for hiking the Albanian Alps. The Theth to Valbona trail is an amazing introduction to the wonderful natural beauty of Albania. Especially now with the newly paved roads and even group hiking tours being made available, it’s easier and more convenient than ever to cross this one off your bucket list.

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February 13, 2022 at 4:45 am

Wow! I never knew there would be so many places to see in that area! It is an incredible hidden gem and I loved reading about it. Thanks for sharing.

journey to valbona

February 13, 2022 at 2:49 pm

This post is so helpful for planning a trip. Thanks for being so detailed and honest. I love following along with your adventures.

journey to valbona

February 13, 2022 at 4:51 pm

This reminds of me our trip to Bulgaria when we stayed in the mountains. It looks like you had a fantastic trip – can’t wait to go here myself!

journey to valbona

February 13, 2022 at 6:10 pm

I have to say WOW!! The photos are amazing and the way you describe it you have firmly put the Albanian Alps on my bucket list. I had never really considered them before but they are beautiful! Thanks for bringing them to my attention!

journey to valbona

February 14, 2022 at 2:54 am

This is a very thorough guide. Stunning photos the waterfalls are to die for. I’d never have considered Albania, it really looks amazing

journey to valbona

February 14, 2022 at 4:06 am

Woooowza! What a gorgeous area! I had no idea the Albanian Alps are such a good hiking area. The hike from Theth to Valbona looks incredible! Mountains, springs, waterfalls aaaand tasty food! Sounds perfect!

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  • Travel tips

Valbona Valley National Park in the Albanian Alps

Valbona Valley National Park

Valbona, also known as Valbonë, is a quaint rural village in the Valbona Valley National Park in the northernmost parts of Albania. We stayed in Valbona for two nights during our hiking trip in the Albanian Alps. It’s odd yet wonderful how something we had not even heard of just a couple of weeks ago is forever carved with beautiful memories in our hearts. 

Getting to Valbona Valley National Park

Even though getting to Valbona from Shkodër takes seven hours, arranging the travel was straightforward. With some research fueled by my unrelenting need to plan ahead, we booked our transfer well in advance online . In contrast, most of our fellow backpackers at the Wanderers hostel (the de-facto backpackers central in Shkodër) booked their transfers and accommodation on the spot. I forgot to ask whether the hostel ever ran into capacity issues, but I imagine it has to inevitably come to that, especially in the high tourist season. 

David in front of the Wanderers Hostel, Shkodër

As transfers run only once a day, we would not take our chances. However, I do understand that those on a multi-month backpacking adventure through Europe approach the situation with a much more relaxed attitude. Lucky ducks.

The journey to Valbona Valley National Park starts shortly before 7 AM with a two-hour minibus ride to Koman Lake. As we sat on the fully packed bus, still sleepy, the sun slowly shone through the clouds and gracefully rose behind the mountains, announcing the start of a new day. 

Shkodër to Valbona by bus

By the time we got to Koman Lake, the sky had cleared. Happy about the sunny day, we secured great seats on one of the ferry’s terraces, ready to enjoy the view.  The vividly emerald green water of Koman Lake, embraced by the limestone karsts, brought back fond memories of a similar scenery in the Khao Sok National Park in Thailand . This unexpected resemblance filled us with positivity, setting the tone for the beautiful adventures ahead.

Koman Lake emerald water

Shkoder to Valbona route

  • 06:45-08:30 Shkoder to Koman by minibus
  • 09:00 - 12:15 Koman to Fierze by ferry
  • 12:30 - 13:30 Fierze to Valbona by minibus

First Impressions of Valbona

Surrounded by the enchanting Albanian Alps, Valbona is tucked away from the city noise, beautifully frozen in time, embracing the simplicity and honesty of the countryside life. You can almost smell tranquility when you arrive. The change of gear is unmistakable. Although only about 200km from Shkodër, the nearest big city, it takes almost a full day to get there with a combination of minibusses and an almost 3-hour ferry ride. Undoubtedly, this is what has kept the village still so real.

First impressions of Valbona

While Valbona still doesn’t have a conventional grocery shop, a post office, or, heaven forbid, a souvenir store, the tourism infrastructure is visibly developing at full speed. There are multiple construction sites across the settlement, readying to accommodate the ever-growing tourist arrivals.  We saw a fancy multistore resort hotel in the making with what looked like a big swimming pool. I wonder how the village will look and feel in a few years and what kind of tourists it will attract. Although I understand that change is inevitable, I hope Valbona maintains its charm and rustic sincerity.

First impressions of Valbona

Staying in Valbona Valley National Park

Finding accommodation in Valbona Valley National Park is easy. Seemingly, every guesthouse is on booking.com. After a fun, but let’s admit, very short night in a hostel dormitory in Shkodër (for old times’ sake), we knew we had to balance it out with a private room to ensure we could recover between the hikes in the Albanian Alps. We chose Bujtina Arturi - a small family-run place offering a simple bed & breakfast. The hosts - a young couple with kids, grandma, a dog, countless chickens, and three cows gave us a shy but heartfelt welcome as we arrived. 

Staying in Valbona Valley National Park

The Relentless Alpine Cows

Our room, at the back of the property, let us have our privacy while getting discrete glimpses of the family going about their lives. Spotless hand-washed white bed linen air-drying in the Alpine wind, little kids eagerly waving at every passerby, random interactions between the family and guests, and… cows. Cows are everywhere and roam freely, on the roads, on the fields, not having a care in the world about anybody’s private property or anything else, for that matter. When you walk around Valbona, you will most certainly see somebody trying to chase away cows from their land. 

Staying in Valbona Valley National Park

The same happened in our guesthouse. Three cows quietly appeared from the dense bushes surrounding the property, munching on the juicy green grass. Everyone from the family gave it a go to shoo the animals away. Although everyone seemed to have their preferred technique worked out, all attempts failed. The shouting, running, and even rock-throwing had little impact on the cows, who just shamelessly kept returning. It was hilarious to watch, and the comedy of the situation was not lost on our hosts either. We exchanged laughs as we saw the beasts reappear from the bushes.

To our surprise, it was the frail-looking, hunched grandma who decidedly took off her shoe and, with an unexpected speed and precision, made sure the cows understood who the boss was. Grandmas are badasses everywhere. The cows left for good.  I wish we had taken some pictures or videos of that.

Food in Valbona Valley National Park

In all our planning, we made one dramatic mistake. We knew there were no ATMs or card payments in the Albanian Alps national parks, so we got cash in Shkodër. However, we completely overlooked that we still had to pay for all our accommodation upon arrival. That’s four nights. Bam. Luckily, we had enough to pay the hosts, but our food and drinks budget suddenly shrank substantially. After the initial shock and frustration, we considered it a fun challenge. We still had enough cash to enjoy ourselves; we just had to spend more deliberately.

Breakfast in Valbona

The family made a simple but filling breakfast with eggs, sausage, salty Balkan cheese, and a delicious herbal tea. We used the accompanying bread, fresh butter, and homemade fig jam to make sweet snacks for our hiking trips. It tasted simply heavenly on the top of the mountains.

Valbona Mini Market

Next to the resort hotel construction site is a pop-up mini kiosk selling soft drinks, beers, bananas, and typical snacks and sweets at higher but still reasonable prices. At the time of our visit, the store was operated by an incredibly cheeky eight-year-old (?) boy. I can only assume his parents left him in charge in the quieter off-season so he could learn the ropes. Having observed him interact with other customers, it is clear why the parents had no concerns about anybody taking advantage of the young entrepreneur. The little store manager is a natural salesperson. Even we, concerned about our cash balance, left the store buying more than initially intended. Respect.

Valbona mini market

Eating Out in Valbona

Many families running guesthouses offer dinners at their places for a €10-15 charge per person. Unfortunately, this was not the case at ours. Without many alternatives (the only other open place had suspiciously many “food poisoning” reviews), we ate twice at the lovely Guest House Jezerca. Our newly calculated budget allowed us €20 per dinner for two. Within that, we got a large Balkan salad, a portion of roasted potatoes, and a main - once a chicken and once - a fish. It was absolutely delicious! The warm homemade food tasted especially good after the Rosni Peak hike , where we each burnt over four thousand calories.

Guest House Jezerca dinner

Random observations about Valbona Valley National Park

Random observation #1: people..

We were pleased to see no “flip-flop tourists” in the Albanian Alps. Everyone we met had proper hiking shoes, most had trekking poles, and generally seemed fully aware of what they were getting themselves into. That is, unlike our hike to the Ijen volcano crater in Indonesia, where many tourists showed up in, you guessed it, flip-flops. But that’s a different (and old) story . 

There was a bunch of 20-something backpackers from around the world, a big chunk of European couples in their later 30s, and a very inspiring group of 50+ easily overtaking any previously mentioned groups. We also met a couple of solo female hikers traveling through Valbona Valley National Park over the mountains from Kosovo or Montenegro. Just when you start thinking you did something cool, another inspiring woman shows you to dream bigger. Left in awe.

Random observation #2: Bunkers.

Bunkers in the mountains, bunkers in the valley, bunkers everywhere around the country. It is estimated there are up to 75’000 concrete bunkers still remaining in Albania. It just doesn't feel right seeing these champignon-looking concrete constructions against the scenic Alpine backdrop.  What a sobering reminder of the country’s recent history.

Cows and bunkers in Valbona

Random observation #3: Similarities with SEA.

Surprisingly, this journey brought back many memories of our nine-month backpacking trip in Southeast Asia, so we often compared and contrasted the two. It was probably brought on by the underdeveloped tourist infrastructure, the welcome roughness of it all, the creativity and simplicity in problem-solving, and ... possibly the mere fact of traveling with our backpacks again :).

Most surprising similarities: 

  • Many backpackers from New Zealand.
  • No toilet paper, instead - a water hoe.

Most welcome differences: 

  • Sane bus drivers carefully navigating the serpentine roads.
  • Drinkable water from the tap and many other comforts.

Budget for Valbona Valley National Park

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journey to valbona

Some Good News, Some Bad News, and the Journey to Valbona, Northern Albania

A journey to Valbona in Northern Albania was something that was high on my list to do since I first learned about Quku i Valbonës and the magnanimous Catherine and her partner Alfred who run it when I was on the Via Dinarica back in 2013. The only thing that was stopping me was how “very far away”  Valbona National Valley Park and the Accursed Mountains always felt the few times I found myself traveling around Albania after that, mostly around the coast, where it seemed I’d have more luck finding Atlantis somewhere in the Ionian than an efficient bus route (this may actually be true).

Road to Valbona, Northern Albania © The Blonde Gypsy

Luckily (or crazily, I’m still trying to decide) I recently became closer to it than ever before when I decided to relocate my life to Prishtina and although it took two years, I finally made that journey – actually a couple of journeys within the past six months.

With a car, it turns out Valbona is a piece of cake to get to from anywhere now that they’ve installed a slick asphalt road through the valley which you can easily get to from Bajram Curri . Direct from Kosovo’s capital, it takes about three hours depending on the border crossing.

By public transportation, it can be a little challenging wherever you are coming from, but not impossible and no doubt will be an adventure in itself. Catherine has laid everything out beautifully for you HERE whether you chose to come by car, boat, minibus, and/or your feet (from Theth it is a 6 hour hike).

I traveled there the second time from Gjakova in Western Kosovo which is probably one of the least difficult places to grab a connection to Bajram Curri. I hopped on a minibus at 12:30pm and it dropped me off about an hour later in the center of town where I then made my way to the “bus stop” in front of Hotel Univers to wait for the last (and maybe only?) bus to Valbona that leaves at 2:30pm everyday. It takes around 30 minutes to get to Valbona from there and costs 250 lek.

Main Street Bajram Curri, Northern Albania © The Blonde Gypsy

You don’t need more than an hour to see Bajram Curri in case you were wondering and you also have nothing to worry about in case you heard anything before about it being shady like I had. There is something slightly off about the city, but not necessarily in a bad/scary way, it’s just one of those small pockets of the country that clearly doesn’t get very much attention or many tourists passing through so all you should be prepared for are some looks from the locals. Particularly if you are all alone, blonde, dragging a rolling suitcase behind you, and asking around for “BAR”.

Bajram Curri, Northern Albania © The Blonde Gypsy

So I guess you can say this is the good news. Valbona is not as far-removed as it may seem, yet perfectly removed for anyone looking for an escape in a stunningly beautiful setting for a few days or more (my suggestion is to go for more) like I was this past October and then again in January. What you find when you get there…believe me, it will have been worth any amount of effort it took to make it happen.

View from Riljinda, Valbona, Northern Albania © The Blonde Gypsy

Desperate to get away from Kosovo for a couple of nights, my first visit to Valbona ( Riljinda to be exact) and meeting Catherine turned out to be the most magical of times. As a native New Yorker who just picked up and moved to Valbona some seven years ago now, her and I bonded almost immediately over our unconventional lifestyle choices and love/hate relationship with the Albanian worlds we unexpectedly landed ourselves in. Nevermind the one liter+ of rakia that we may or may not have finished in the process. Ok, so we kept getting interrupted by guests, boyfriends, and my new cat that we had to share with…

Alcoholic kitty in Valbona, Northern Albania © The Blonde Gypsy

Words can’t express how special it is to connect with one of your people in another part of the world where not that many like you exist (in my case, independent, motivated women who willingly move to places that most people are trying to get out of without any international contract drawing them there) so for that Valbona/Riljinda has become one of my favorite spots in the entire Balkan region. A place of refuge from the chaos that Prishtina life can often bring.

Feeling reflective in Valbona, Northern Albania © The Blonde Gypsy

Moving on to more good news about Valbona. Whatever journey you choose to have for yourself there – active, lazy, romantic, reflective, all of the above – you will not be disappointed. It is one of the most beautiful corners of the world that I’ve had the privilege of seeing, breathing, and tasting. The fresh air up there is priceless and the famously delicious trout they pull from the Valbona River by no means overhyped. There are about 200 km of hiking trails you can explore around the national park or for those who are looking to be a little less active, even just driving through to the end of the road will blow your mind.

Drive through Valbona, Northern Albania © The Blonde Gypsy

Now here comes the bad news. This special place which has remained more pristine than many other nature spots in the region due to it being isolated far longer thanks to shitty roads is in serious danger. While I’m thankful for the new road from Bajram Curri for making it easier for me/tourists to visit and stimulate the economy, it’s also bringing in a lot of riffraff. Mainly corporate riffraff who care less about enjoying the nature and more about exploiting it. You can’t help but notice almost immediately after approaching the entrance to the park some massive machinery digging for something you know they can sell for a high price and unfortunately it’s about to get worse.

Drive from Kosovo to Bajram Curri and Valbona, Northern Albania © The Blonde Gypsy

For a couple of years now, the ridiculously beautiful Valbona River has been threatened by multiple hydroelectic power projects that would ultimately destroy the biodiversity of the national park as well as some of its most famous peaks – and things are starting to get scarier now with rumors of even more to come. This guy compares it to building hydropower plants in Yellowstone – you could NEVER get away with doing that in America. But unfortunately in Albania (and most of the Balkans, for that matter) it just takes money regardless that it’s been a “protected national park” since 1996.

In light of that fact, it would be an incredibly brave endeavor for someone to fight against the corporations and corrupt politicians who would and are facilitating the destruction of Valbona, but not surprisingly, Catherine, Alfred, and many from their community are doing this. Or at least trying – and they would love your help.

For now raising awareness seems to be the best way for anyone outside of Albania to do something. You can sign her petition on SumofUs , continue to spread the word, and try to get Prime Minister Edi Rama’s attention via Twitter (@ediramaal) using #StopHPPinValbona. And from inside Albania…GO. Make the journey to Valbona to see for yourself what an incredible treasure it is. It’s better than Atlantis and if Albania was smart it would do everything in its power to make sure it stays protected and doesn’t eventually sink into oblivion, too.

“Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.”- Margaret Mead

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A Magical Ferry Ride on Lake Koman, Northern Albania

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WOW! It’s BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!

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You’re beautiful! Keep kicking ass and taking names, bunny <3

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Luanne white

Hi, my 2 daughters and I are going to be touring the area this May, 2016. I am so looking forward to it, and you haven helped me relax a little! Thanks so for your educated help!

Oh get ready for an adventure :) Certain you will have a wonderful time and sure it’s beautiful over there right now as spring is in full bloom. Enjoy!

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Annika of 457 Australia

I love the photos! The place is awesome that makes me wish to go there now. By the way, you have a cutie patootie cat.

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fırat karahan

We are planning to visit Valbona National Park, can you share some suggestions to do ?

Best Regards Firat

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Via Dinarica: Rafting the Neretva and Tito's Secret Bunker in Konjic, Bosnia & Herzegovina

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Theth to Valbona: What to know about hiking on Albania’s most beautiful trail

April 23, 2018 by Karen Turner 9 Comments

If you’re considering hiking in Albania from Theth to Valbona, this post is for you. I’m an amateur hiker who decided that I’d do my first proper full-day hike while in Albania. Admittedly, the hike didn’t go as smoothly as I wanted as I ended up carrying my large backpacking…

Still, I’m so glad that I decided to hike in Albania. The views were beautiful. This post contains tips for hiking from Theth To Valbona, what to bring with you for Theth to Valbona, and what to expect from Albania’s most famous hiking trail.

journey to valbona

  • 1.1 My biggest mistakes that I made while hiking the Theth to Valbona trail that I urge you not to repeat:  Carrying my 50L bag with me
  • 1.2 What to bring for your Theth to Valbona trip
  • 2 Getting to Theth
  • 3 An overview of the Theth to Valbona trail
  • 4 End of the Hike
  • 5 Have you done the Theth to Valbona trail?

Notes on Theth to Valbona

It is not possible to hike Theth to Valbona year-round as the mountain-pass becomes too icy during winter–and even the 4x4s will not drive the treacherous road out to Theth in winter.   If you want to hike from Theth to Valbona, you’ll need to go in the summer months. 

We went in September, which felt like summer.  We didn’t require a guide as the trail was easy to follow and any decent hiker can take lead.  If you’re traveling solo, you should be able to find fellow backpackers interested in the trek at your hostel prior to going to Theth or in Theth.

It’s best to check the weather carefully as this hike would be very dangerous in a thunderstorm as you’re hiking of the highest peaks in Albania.  It’s good to give yourself an extra day in case of poor weather.

You do not want to hike both ways, so it’s best to plan your journey by starting in Theth and hiking to Valbona prior to continuing onwards. The most popular route is to take a car to Fierza to catch the boat along Lake Komani prior to taking another ride back to Shkodra although some buses run to/from Valbona in summer.  It maybe possible to catch a bus to Gjakova in Kosovo .   You can easily organize your journey from Valbona by discussing your plans with local accommodation owners.

My biggest mistakes that I made while hiking the Theth to Valbona trail that I urge you not to repeat:  Carrying my 50L bag with me

Although this may not be an issue for someone who is a more experienced hiker, it’s unnecessary to carry your full backpack from Theth to Valbona  unless you’re not returning back to Shkoder after you’re done with the hike. 

I’d recommend carrying a daypack with a change of clothing to last you a couple days–and using that for the trek. I was lucky to have kind friends who helped me with the bag, but hiking with all your gear isn’t easy if you haven’t done it before.

What to bring for your Theth to Valbona trip

Views from the hike from Theth to Valbona, one of the most beautiful hikes in Albania!

  • Your camera
  • A good pair of hiking sneakers
  • Sunscreen as you’ll be in direct sun for quite a bit of the journey!
  • Hiking attire and change of clothing.
  • A water bottle
  • Enough lek for four days to cover your accommodation, food, and transport (130 euros is a safe bet for two people).

Getting to Theth

Getting to Theth involved taking a shared car with four other travelers.  We ended up paying about forty euros  total to go from Shkodra to Theth.  You can organize this ride one way to give yourself a bit more flexibility in order to hike more in Thethi, one of the hidden gems of Albania.  I’d recommend giving yourself an extra day to enjoy the Blue Eye of Thethi as well as rest if you’re not used to two day hikes.

Church in Theth. Read tips for hiking in Albania on Albania's most famous hike: Theth to Valbona! #travel #theth #valbona

We stayed at  Bujtina Berishta Theth , a newly rebuilt traditional guesthouse with friendly staff who spoke some English.  The dinner was incredibly generously apportioned and we ended up feasting on a delicious meal.  If you’re on a budget, I recommend giving yourself more time in Theth, where you’ll find more affordable accommodation compared to Valbona.  The starting point was directly behind our accommodation with following the sign to Valbona.

Check prices for accomodation in Theth

An overview of the Theth to Valbona trail

It took us about 8 hours with a fair number of stops.  We heard of people finishing the route in 3-4 hours, however you need to be a fast and confident hiker.  Six hours would be realistic with fewer stops, however it was more relaxing this way.   The trail is clearly marked and in summer, you can often follow the people coming down to indicate the right direction.

The Theth to Valbona trail is an old mule’s trail that traversed this mountainous section of Albania (and the surrounding area) prior to roads.  There’s still  no road between the two cities, so if you’re not sure about carrying your stuff, you can hire someone to bring their mule with.   You’ll need to organize this before you go although you might see some people with mules near the end of the trek.

We were told that the water in the region is safe and comes from mountain springs, so it’s safe to drink from springs that you encounter while hiking.  (Be sure to check with the locals in case something changes!)  I filled up my water before we went, however we had fresh water springs for most of the hike up as well as the bottom of the hike.  It made it easy to stay hydrated without carrying a lot of water.

The starting bit was a rolling hill that cut through a forest.  We ended up coming upon a spring at the first cafe about halfway up the hill, perfect for a cold drink.  After reaching the top of the forest, we ended up walking through a beautiful high alpine valley with panoramic views of the valley prior to coming to a staffed cafe with byrek and coffee (in case you forget breakfast like I did).  The cafe had stunning views of the nearby mountains.

High alpine meadow near Theth, Albania. This meadow is near the beginning of the Theth to Valbona hike in Albania. #travel #albania #theth #valbona

From this point, it’s a more standard trek uphill with more direct sunlight exposure until you reach the peak.  The path towards the top of Valbona peak gets a bit narrow although it’s doable with 2 people walking directly behind each other.  It is certainly challenging at this point as the trail gets quite steep. 

Once you reach Valbona peak, it’s possible to head to the optional viewpoint at the top with leaving your bags below on some stable rock.   We ended up having lunch of some cheese that I brought from the Netherlands near the peak.  (If you bring lek, you can stop at most of the cafes for byrek.)

Beautiful views of the Albanian Alps from Valbone peak in Albania from the Theth to Valbona hike. #travel #valbona #albania #theth #hiking

From Valbona Peak, it’s a winding path down with a lot of scree and no elevated sides.  I personally really struggle with hiking downhill on scree as a less experienced hiker, however this part of the trek would be considerably faster with hiking poles (for those of you who are less confident hikers). 

My husband had no problem with this section and practically ran down the mountain, however the views prior to the descent were stunning.  In retrospect, I’m glad that we didn’t hike Valbona to Theth as we would have needed to go uphill on the scree the other way and it’s easier to go downhill on scree.

Valbona valley in Albania after the Theth to Valbona hike. Read about the best hike in the Balkans, right in the middle of the Albanian Alps! #travel #mountains #albania #hiking

Once you’re down the steepest part, you’ll find another cafe with cold drinks after walking for a bit through a forested area.  Once you continue, you’ll walk through a village prior to walking along a flat valley with stunning views of Valbona surrounding you.  The hotels are further along this path.

End of the Hike

View of Valbona after the end of the Theth to Valbona hike. #travel #mountains #albania

Upon arriving, we stayed at  Hotel Margjeka in Valbona.  This hotel, run by a kind German woman, had fantastic food and incredibly friendly staff. There wasn’t a lot of options in Valbona, so if you’re going in summer, I recommend booking early and/or bringing your own tent to save money.  (Prices for hotels in Valbona are the highest that I saw while in Albania.)

Have you done the Theth to Valbona trail?

  • Click for my complete Albania itinerary.
  • Click for my complete Kosovo itinerary.

Planning your trip to Albania? You must do one of the best hikes in the Balkans: Theth to Valbona. This detailed guide to hiking in Albania provides all you need for your hike in the Albanian Alps! #travel #hiking #albania #theth #balkans #adventuretravel

About Karen Turner

New Yorker–born and raised. Currently living in the Hague, the Netherlands after stints in Paris and Amsterdam. Lover of travel, adventure, nature, city, dresses, and cats.

Reader Interactions

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January 7, 2019 at 10:05 am

looks amazing. Thanks for the information:)

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August 20, 2019 at 7:01 pm

Can’t wait to do this hike next summer. Can you tell me about what time you arrived back in Shkoder at the end of this journey?

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August 21, 2019 at 1:08 am

Close to dinner time!

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March 5, 2020 at 6:52 pm

I might not have time to do the loop. If I were to only hike part of the trail, which is more beautiful, near Valbona or Theth?

March 13, 2020 at 4:40 pm

Both are gorgeous. Theth has a lot of options and was my favorite, but Valbona is also lovely and easier to access.

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September 19, 2019 at 4:58 pm

Do you think it’s possible to go from Shkodër, hike and return all in one day?

September 24, 2019 at 4:39 pm

No. Impossible.

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July 22, 2021 at 1:34 pm

Hi there, I can’t do steep bits (with back issues) but my husband can do the whole hike. Is it better for me if I wanted to do just a part of a shorter bit to go from Theth or Valbona? Thanks for your lovely blog !

July 27, 2021 at 12:06 pm

I’d recommend not doing it as it’s not possible to do a short bit if you cannot do steep bits.

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Our Big Journey

Valbona to Theth hike in Albania

Valbona to theth hike in albania.

journey to valbona

By Roberto (Updated Sep 23)

When we were planning our Albania road-trip, in addition to the Albanian Riviera and old towns, we wanted to do some hiking, so we explored the possibilities. We checked the Valbona to Theth hike and I personally fell in love with the idea of spending 3 days doing a marvellous hike in the middle of the Albanian Alps . I persuaded Ellen to arrange the hotels and… we did it!

In this post, we explain everything – or at least the important things – about the Valbona to Theth hike. Before going, we didn’t find a ton of information about the hike and we didn’t understand why it requires 3 days to do a single 8-hour hike. That’s why we want to provide clear information in this post, for people who want to do the hike.

Table of Contents

Explaining the Valbona to Theth hike map

First things first: you need 3 days (minimum) to do the Valbona to Theth hike

Why? Because the hike departs from an isolated village and goes to another isolated village and both require time to get to by bus. Therefore, if the hike is 6-9 hours, it’s practically impossible to do it in two days and absolutely not possible in just one day due to required transportation time.

journey to valbona

Day 1. Shköder to Valbona

  • 6:30 Bus to the Ferry
  • 11:00 Ferry (2.5 hrs)
  • 12:30 Bus to Valbona
  • 14:00 Arrive at Valbona

Day 2. Valbona to Theth (Hike)

  • 7:30 Breakfast
  • 8:00 start the hike
  • Hike (6-9 hrs)
  • Arrive at Theth

Day 3. Theth to Shköder

  • 8:00 Breakfast
  • Explore Theth (we recommend visiting Theth Waterfall)
  • 12:00 Bus to Shköder

journey to valbona

This is the longest day in terms of transfers. A minibus will pick you up from your hotel or a pick-up point and drive you all the way to Komani Lake Ferry. Expect a packed bus, an unpaved road, and tons of curves, for 2 hours. Inviting eh? 😉

From the ferry port, you’ll cruise the beautiful Komani Lake for 2.5 hours. You’ll have time enough to take pictures and grab some snacks from the minibar. Later in Fierza, you’ll jump again on a minibus, for another 1.5 hours until you arrive at your hotel or camping in Valbona, where you can walk, relax and prepare your stuff for the next day.

journey to valbona

After an early breakfast in your hotel or camping, it’ll be time to get ready for the hike. Note that if you stayed in accommodation located at the beginning of Valbona, you’ll need to walk the entire road through the rest of the town – it could be 40-60 minutes – until the starting point of the hike. We stayed at the lovely Guesthouse Jezerca and they were kind enough to bring us to the starting point of the hike.

There’s more information below about the hike, but expect an intense and beautiful walk for about 6-9 hours until you reach Theth.

Once in Theth, you’ll want to rest and have an excellent dinner like the one we had at our accommodation – Guest House Flodisa .

journey to valbona

Generally, the guesthouses have direct contact with minibuses that go back to Shköder and you will need to ask them if they can arrange a timing that fits your schedule. We orderer a bus at 11.30, so we had time in the morning to go to Theth’s Waterfall.

The bus takes 2.5 hours until Shköder and the road is VERY winding. One guy in our bus even threw up…

This is how we returned to the place we started the 3-day trip, and this is why you need – at least – 3 days to do it.

When to do the hike

Below there is the monthly average temperature (ºC) for Valbona. As you can see, it’s not extremely cold. We suggest avoiding winter and aiming for April-October to be safe. We went in September and we had a sunny day in the morning and cloudy in the evening. There was some snow only on the top of some peaks.

journey to valbona

Valbona to Theth, or Theth to Valbona

Good and important question. We saw more people doing the hike from Valbona to Theth than from Theth to Valbona. Here’s what to consider:

Travel insurance IATI

  • There are less things to do in Valbona , so people prefer spending 1-2 days in Theth and go to Valbona first.
  • It’s better to do the long commute at the beginning of the trip . The day with the ferry and two minibuses sucks. You spend many hours seated, packed with many other people in a small space. If you do the hike from Theth to Valbona, you’ll have to do this long day of commuting after the hike…

journey to valbona

  • The beginning of the hike in Valbona is quite rocky . If you do this at the end of your hike, when you’re tired and maybe the sun is up, you’ll be exhausted.
  • The profile of the hike is quite similar, but the first half from Valbona is more rocky and demanding . We preferred to do this first.

What to bring to the 3-day hike

Once you leave Shköder, think that you won’t have access to buy supplies or food, because there aren’t any stores on the way. Only in Theth, there is a very small store for basic groceries. So bring everything you may need on this trip.

We absolutely recommend going there with a comfy backpack to carry everything in. In case you bring camera gear like me, I suggest you check the Best Hiking Camera Backpacks post. This is the first hike I’ve done with the Shimoda v2 30L, and absolutely loved it. Ellen usually goes with a 32 liters Kathmandu hiking backpack.

journey to valbona

Hiking shoes. We saw people with regular trainers or even vans doing the hike but there’s mud, puddles and for a medium-high altitude hike, we strongly suggest hiking shoes or boots.

Consider your water and food necessities. You won’t need a paella, but grab some snacks, protein bars, or fruits for the buses and the hike. In Valbona and Theth you’ll have breakfast and dinner.

Cash . Albania is still behind the times of credit card payments, and Theth and Valbona are no exception. You’ll need to pay everything in cash (including your accommodation bookings, even if you book online in advance). Also – there are no ATMs in these towns so be sure to bring more than enough cash.

The Valbona to Theth Hike

I’m not going to reveal too much about the hike, because we like discovering the views by ourselves and not through the screen. And I hope you are like us 🙂

The hike is 15-16 km long , depending on where you start it, and we would say the difficulty level is medium. You don’t need to be fit or have a lot of mountain experience, but some parts will make you sweat. Just make sure you can walk for 6-9 hours.

Some people do it in 5 hours, others in 10. We spent roughly 6 hours hiking and less than 2 hours resting and chilling. The trail profile is up and down, with an elevation gain of 1000 meters, not bad.

journey to valbona

The beginning of the hike – starting from Valbona – is flat and rocky through the riverbed, and gradually goes up. The path also turns earthy.

After going up and up, the earth turns to rock and everything else turns green.

Some minutes later, after a killer hill, there’s the salvation: Simoni Cafe . This is the PERFECT place to stop and have a coffee. We ordered the traditional Albanian coffee and had some snacks that gave us the energy to face the rest of the demanding part of the hike.

journey to valbona

The most difficult part goes up in an infinite zigzag until you reach the top of the mountain pass. We had our lunch here, taking advantage of the epic views of the two visible valleys.

journey to valbona

Once ready, we descended down the second half of the hike to Theth. The views change a lot, from an open area to a closed green forest. In between this forest, there is another coffee in case you missed the other or want another break. The next path is also less demanding and easier to walk, until you get the last kilometres, which are criminal for your knees… more than 2 km of a rocky zigzag until you reach the final destination: Theth village.

Valbona to Theth Hike Ferry

journey to valbona

To get to Valbona, you’ll need to take a ferry which takes 2 hours to arrive at Fierza , and then take another bus. The ferry is 800 Lek – or 7 €. You’ll have to pay in cash unless you book online in advance . You’ll read in other blogs that the ferry experience is amazing! Well… we’re always honest here.

We found the ferry a bit deceiving. It’s true that the landscape is pretty cool, and feeling the wind on the top of the boat feels great after the minibus, yet they have many things to improve. We couldn’t sit on our ferry because they sell more tickets than seats (even during the COVID-19 pandemic). So… you’ll be two hours standing or sitting on the floor. They have a minibar with snacks and drinks on the ferry but don’t expect real food. To give you an idea of the crowded ferry, check this photo below.

journey to valbona

About the Buses

Similar to the ferry, we were a bit disappointed with the minibuses . The drivers didn’t speak any English, they stopped randomly to do other businesses and drove recklessly. The buses had 0 Covid-19 measures, and didn’t stop to give passengers a break during the whole trip.

Ellen organised the bus with the ferry ticket purchase linked above. You can only pay for the ferry online – you must email them to organise the bus and pay in cash when you’re there. The buses from Shkoder to Valbona cost roughly 1500 Lek per person. Our host from Guest House Flodisa arranged the return bus from Theth to Shkoder, which was around 1200 Lek per person.

journey to valbona

What to do in Valbona

Valbona or Valbonë is a little village in Kukës County. It lays in a valley of the Valbonë Valley National Park, in the Accursed Mountains or the Albanian Alps. There are dozens of guest houses, camping, and hotels, that help visitors discover the area.

journey to valbona

The main attraction is undoubtedly the Valbona to Theth hike , but there are other things to visit if you have time. We walked to the Valbonë River and the Old Mill of Valbona . It’s a peaceful 10 min walk and we took this photo.

journey to valbona

Another thing to do in Valbona, is a short walk that goes to Xhema’s Lake. We stayed at Jezerca Guest House, a cozy place with clean wooden houses, a homie atmosphere, good food, and very helpful staff.

What to do in Theth

journey to valbona

As mentioned before, Theth has more things to offer than Valbona, like the other long hike to The Blue Eye . This is a 5-hour in-and-out hike that goes to a marvellous pool with a waterfall and blue waters . The route appears in Google Maps.

In case you have time constraints like us, we totally recommend walking to Theth’s Waterfall . It’s a short 45-min walk which is flat and easy until the last 10 minutes that head to waterfall. Along the way, you’ll cross the river, while enjoying amazing views of the valley with the peaks in the background.

journey to valbona

For an interesting visit, you can visit the stone tower to the Kulla e ngujimit . This tower is also called the Kulla “Vendetta/Blood Feud” Tower because of its history. We didn’t know that there’s an ancient Albanian code of law that stabilises strict rules for   vengeance killing. Someone is allowed to kill another person to avenge a previous murder or moral humiliation. Killing women, children, or elderly persons is strictly prohibited. These tower houses worked like a safe house where people couldn’t be touched. Intriguing, eh?

To sum up, we would encourage you to not miss the north of Albania and spend at least three days in this region , as we did. We loved the Valbona to Theth hike and the surroundings of both villages. It’s a matter of time that the buses, roads, and ferries will improve, and we think this was one of the best things we did in Albania 🇦🇱.

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Thanks for visiting our travel and photography blog. We're Roberto and Ellen/Ellie, a Spaniard and an American-Korean who met while Ellen was traveling the world and passing through Spain. More than 5 years later, we're continuing our journey through life together while traveling and currently living in Valencia, Spain. This is where we share our travel experiences, tips, and information on destinations. We aim to inspire others to explore more of the world as a part of life's big journey.

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IMAGES

  1. 3 Days 4x4 Tour in Valbona

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  2. Theth Valbona Hike: 27 Things You Need to Know!

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  3. Journey to Valbona

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  4. 5 breathtaking views of Valbona Valley National Park

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  5. A Guide to the Spectacular Theth to Valbona Pass Hike

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COMMENTS

  1. Journey to Valbona

    Welcome to Journey to Valbona . . . and Beyond!, since 2010 the best (and sometimes only) source of information for travel to the 'wild' (but very civilized) North of Albania. Over the past 13 years we have helped 1,000s of travellers and new friends get to where they want to go. The '… and Beyond' bit means that we now talk more for ...

  2. Valbona

    Valbona. Valbona is one of the best- known areas for tourism in Albania. These days, tens of thousands of tourists from all over the world have visited Valbona. The most developed activity in Valbona is hiking. However, as most of the rest of the website is devoted to Valbona, we will spare you here!

  3. About Us

    About Us. Journey to Valbona started in 2009, when Catherine Bohne (I!) arrived in Valbona for an 11 day holiday. 8 Years later (in 2017), I'm still here thanks to the charming (and tolerant!) mountain people who were kind enough to adopt me. Alfred Selimaj, the owner of the house where I was staying asked me to make a website.

  4. The 8 Day* "Peaks of Valbona (N)" Tour

    Day 1: Komani Ferry to Valbona Valley. Starting from Shkoder or Tirana, arrive in Valbona via Komani Lake Ferry/Buses. Ask to be dropped off at Rilindja, where you can take a room or camp. [Options: Ask instead to be dropped off in Motina, and hike the 6km (2.5 hours?) along the river to arrive at Rilindja.

  5. How to Get Here

    The daily bus returns to the valley in the afternoon, leaving Bajram Curri around 14:00. Costs 300 lek. There's no proper bus stop (even though locals call it "Valbona Station"). The minibus just waits in front of the hardware store/Universal Café near the corner of the "Pazaar" (market) road and the road to Valbona.

  6. The "Classic" Valbona to Theth Hike

    This is our take on the famous "Valbona - Theth Hike," which is listed (for example) in Lonely Planet as 'one of the 4 or 5 must do things in Albania.' Back in 2009 when I arrived, it was pretty much the only thing there WAS to do in Northern Albania and as it was so hard to even get here then, the hike did tend to get written about as if it were climbing both peaks of Kilamanjaro or ...

  7. Valbona Hiking Trails

    The good news is that there's something over 200km of trails that we've personally explored, at least partially marked, and can tell you enough about to get you on your way. The not-bad, but less-good news is that Valbona (or Tropoja) is not Switzerland (as the local expression goes), and you shouldn't expect that trails have been ...

  8. 21 Awesome Things To Do In Valbona Albania

    The 'Journey to Valbona' shop in Tropoja can organise mushroom foraging tours. I didn't get time to do this but it honestly sounds kinda fun. 21. Hike To The Jezerca Lakes. The Jezerca Lake is one of the most beautiful alpine lakes that I've ever seen! This is the largest lake in the Albanian Alps and sits at 1,792m (~5879 ft) above sea ...

  9. Journey to Valbona

    Journey to Valbona. 2,710 likes. This is the Facebook home of JourneytoValbona.com.

  10. Valbona Albania

    Discover Valbona an unforgettable journey into the stunning Valbona Valley. Experience tailor-made hiking adventures, cultural immersions, and breathtaking landscapes with our expert local guides. Embrace the adventure and authenticity of the Albanian Alps with sustainable and personalised tours designed for every traveler.

  11. Valbona Valley National Park

    Valbona National Park, also called the Albanian miracle of Alps, is a part of the Bjeshkët e Nemuna. ... It is a breathtaking journey through massive gorgeous on Lake Koman. Gjakova (40 km, 45-60 mins away, ticket paid on the van leaving from the town center).

  12. Shkoder to Valbona via Lake Komani Ferry

    The entire route from Shkoder to Valbona via the Koman Ferry is about an 8 hour journey. This requires 3 separate modes of transportation - 2 minivans and a ferry. Bus from Shkoder to Ferry Terminal - 2 Hours. Komani Ferry to Fierze - 2.5-3 Hours. Fierze to Accommodation in Valbona - 1 Hour.

  13. Theth to Valbona Hike: Hiker's Guide & Practical Tips

    Exploring the Untamed Beauty: Theth to Valbona Hike in the Albanian Alps. Nestled within the rugged embrace of the Albanian Alps lies a hidden gem that beckons adventurers and nature enthusiasts from around the world: the Theth to Valbona Hike.This captivating 17-kilometer journey weaves through some of Albania's most awe-inspiring landscapes, offering intrepid explorers an unforgettable ...

  14. Valbona Pass (Valbona to Theth Hike): All you Need to Know

    Difficulty: Moderate Duration: 1 Day Distance: 9.5km from Rrogam to Theth (15-16km from Valbona village, from trailhead to trailhead) Peak Elevation: 5,760 feet at Valbona Pass Total Cost Per Person: Roughly $175 per person based on a 3 night trip. The Theth to Valbona hike is an adventure through the Albanian Alps. This region is known for its pristine natural beauty and untouched landscapes.

  15. Valbona Theth Hike In Albanian Alps: A Step-by-Step Guide

    The trip to Valbona mountain village, which is around 200 KM away from Shkoder, involves using ground and water transport: 2 minivans/minibusses and 1 ferry ride. Route Shkoder-Koman-Fierze-Valbona is by far the best way to go. The journey will take around 5-6 HRS starting with an early morning pick-up from your hotel in Shkoder.

  16. Hiking Theth to Valbona: 4 Day Albanian Alps Itinerary

    Starting in Valbona means a very easy beginning to the hike - virtually flat for at least an hour. Then a gradual incline for 4 - 5 hours, until reaching Valbona Pass. After that it's smooth sailing. If you prefer to knock out the hardest part of the hike early in the day, before it gets really hot, I'd start in Theth.

  17. Valbona Valley National Park in the Albanian Alps

    The journey to Valbona Valley National Park starts shortly before 7 AM with a two-hour minibus ride to Koman Lake. As we sat on the fully packed bus, still sleepy, the sun slowly shone through the clouds and gracefully rose behind the mountains, announcing the start of a new day. By the time we got to Koman Lake, the sky had cleared.

  18. Journey to Albania's Valbona Valley

    A journey to Valbona Valley National Park in Northern Albania, the ferry on Komani lake was spectacular, stayed with the Selimaj family, enjoyed a warm hospi...

  19. Some Good News, Some Bad News, and the Journey to Valbona, Northern

    A journey to Valbona in Northern Albania was something that was high on my list to do since I first learned about Quku i Valbonës and the magnanimous Catherine and her partner Alfred who run it when I was on the Via Dinarica back in 2013. The only thing that was stopping me was how "very far away" Valbona National Valley Park and the Accursed Mountains always felt the few times I found ...

  20. Theth to Valbona: What to know about hiking on Albania ...

    Notes on Theth to Valbona. It is not possible to hike Theth to Valbona year-round as the mountain-pass becomes too icy during winter-and even the 4x4s will not drive the treacherous road out to Theth in winter. If you want to hike from Theth to Valbona, you'll need to go in the summer months. We went in September, which felt like summer.

  21. Valbona Valley National Park, Shkoder

    Embark on an unforgettable journey to Valbona Valley, a remote haven in the Albanian Alps renowned for its pristine natural beauty and lush landscapes. Named after the crystal-clear Valbona River that meanders through, this enchanting valley offers a myriad of highlights for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers. The Valbona River invites you ...

  22. Valbona to Theth hike in Albania

    Therefore, if the hike is 6-9 hours, it's practically impossible to do it in two days and absolutely not possible in just one day due to required transportation time. Day 1. Shköder to Valbona. 6:30 Bus to the Ferry. 11:00 Ferry (2.5 hrs) 12:30 Bus to Valbona. 14:00 Arrive at Valbona.

  23. Peaks of the Balkans Trail Stage 1: Journey to Valbona (2023)

    The last part of the journey started from the hotel. The hotel had reserved a spot in the minibus to Koman the day before. So, the minibus takes you to the Koman port, where you board the ferry to Fierzë and then another minibus takes you to Valbona. Depending on your departure point, the journey starts at either 6:45 am or, in my case, 7:00 am.