gourmet traveller seafood cookbook

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Josh Niland knows fish – here are his top tips for cooking it well

Gourmet Traveller’s chef of the year is only interested in cooking fish and seafood – no matter how difficult it is

T here’s not much the chef Josh Niland doesn’t know about fish and seafood. For example, he knows the dish that revolutionised the way we cook fish was a salmon with sorrel dish created by the Michelin starred-chefs the Troisgros brothers in Roanne, France, in the early 70s. Or that it’s trimethylamine that makes fish smell, well, fishy.

Indeed fish is all that Niland, recently voted Gourmet Traveller’s chef of the year by his peers and last year’s best new talent, is interested in cooking. It is all that he serves up at his popular Saint Peter restaurant in Sydney and it’s all that’s sold at his new and novel Fish Butchery – where you can buy anything, as long as it comes from the sea.

And the one thing he knows for sure is that cooking fish is a challenge. “That’s why I love cooking fish so much because it’s so bloody hard and you have to adapt it so much,” he says. And so, as he readies himself for his appearance on SBS’s Food Safari Water, he shares his top tips for cooking fish.

Use weights

Niland has an unusual accessory when it comes to frying fish: he uses fish weights, round weighted discs that he places on the fish while it’s cooking. His method is to place a fish weight directly on the thickest part, then move it clockwise around the fish. The idea is to transfer the heat evenly throughout and also to flatten the fillet. He does occasionally shakes the pan gently to make sure any cooking fat – he prefers clarified butter – can get underneath the skin to make it crispy. This also helps to prevent the fish sticking to the pan.

If you don’t have fish weights, use small saucepans, Niland says. When he has to cook without weights, he places a small saucepan inside a medium-sized saucepan, topping up with a little water if necessary, to help the fish to sit flat in the pan.

Cooking time is tricky

If it’s firm fish, it will take longer; if it’s more “open” it will take less time – but mostly it’s trial and error, according to Niland. His top tip is to cook the fish until it’s warm, rather than being boiling hot, which drys it out. “If you feel the top and the sides of the fish and it feels warm, [you will see] the heat has travelled up and the protein has set. That’s when I would turn it over – give that bottom side a little flash in the pan quickly to set the protein on that side. Then allow it to rest – give it a minute and allow the heat to get to the centre of the fish.”

Buy good fish

“Ultimately, if you get a bad fish, it will curl. You could park a truck on top of it and it will still curl,” says Niland, who says it largely comes down to where you get your fish. His advice is to find a good fishmonger with decent suppliers who have handled the fish correctly.

Don’t hesitate to ask those behind the counter what they would take home themselves that day, he says. “All these guys selling you fish really love fish – otherwise why would you stand in a room filled with fish that’s cold and wet and horrible?” And you can – and should – ask them to explain how best to cook the fish and to remove any bones.

Try something new

Snapper, salmon and barramundi are three of the most commonly purchased fish in Australia, but Niland says you should try something new every now and then. His Fish Butchery specialises in sustainably caught seasonal fish so it includes all sorts of less well-known fish. Snapper and barramundi are only stocked rarely. “If I get wild barramundi from Mackay in Queensland, I’ll have it there, but wild barramundi from Mackay is only available for a moment when it’s awesome. Same with snapper. You get some beautiful snapper coming out of Wollongong or Port Lincoln at certain moments of the year.” Unfortunately he hasn’t found any wild salmon that he wants to sell.

Fish have seasons, says Niland: “King George Whiting is immaculate at the beginning of spring. St Pierre Dory is just the best fish in the world in the middle of winter – but then come summer and you eat a dory it’s nowhere near as good,” he says. “Maybe that’s what’s been a deterrent for people, they don’t understand the seasons, so they are eating fish in the wrong moment and then having poor experiences with it. Then they revert back to auto pilot of let’s just eat this farmed stuff that’s always available and never lets me down.”

Fish should taste like fish

Chefs often use lemon juice to cover that fishy smell – AKA trimethylamine – but not Niland. He says that smell is most pungent when fish is transported and kept in water. His approach is different – he dry handles fish from the beginning, which lengthens its shelf life and allows the fish’s individual flavour to develop.

Fish have distinct flavours beyond their usual classifications of white, pink or blue fish, says Niland, and that’s what he wants diners to appreciate. “When people come to Saint Peter, I want them to be able to tell their friends that they just had the best Murray cod of their life, rather than just saying, ‘Yeah, I think it might have been barramundi or something that we had.’ They can [say]: ‘I remember what it tastes like and it was delicious.’ Then it sets the benchmark.”

The Guardian and Observer aim to publish recipes for sustainable fish. For ratings in your region, check: UK ; Australia ; US

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Gourmet Seafood Paperback – October 1, 2004

Recipes involving fish and seafood are among the most popular in Gourmet Traveller magazine, the recognised monthy bible for all keen Australian cooks. The Gourmet Traveller team has devoted the content of their latest book to SEAFOOD, spanning all aspects of seafood cookery from sauces, soups, salads and entrees through to heartier dishes. The recipes are clearly written and uncomplicated and each one comes with a full-page colour photograph. Although the recipes are suitable for all seasons, the book arrives in time for the summer months optimum time for making the most of the ocean`s bounty.

• Print length 128 pages
• Language English
• Publisher A C P Pub Pty Ltd
• Publication date October 1, 2004
• Dimensions 8.44 x 0.51 x 8.98 inches
• ISBN-10 1863963693
• ISBN-13 978-1863963695
• See all details

Product details

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ A C P Pub Pty Ltd (October 1, 2004)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 128 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1863963693
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1863963695
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 7.4 ounces
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 8.44 x 0.51 x 8.98 inches
• #3,316 in Fish & Seafood Cooking

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This Italian Cookbook From Gourmet Traveller Is A Winner

It’s rare to come across a cookbook where I want to cook every recipe in it – and I mean every recipe. Typically, I enjoy dipping in and out of cookbooks, gaining inspiration and ideas, but attempting only the recipes that truly jump out at me. Italian , a collection of Gourmet Traveller’s best Italian recipes, will keep me occupied for some time because there’s barely a recipe in it that I don’t want to try.

This big-format, hardcover book has more than 100 recipes from leading chefs and the Gourmet Traveller food team, including Guy Grossi, Stefano Manfredi, Neil Perry, Brigitte Hafner, Andreas Papadakis, and Sarah Cicolini. You’ll find recipes for crudo, fried zucchini flowers, risotto and pasta every which way, meatballs with polenta, crisp veal cotoletta, and of course, tiramisù, cannoli and semifreddo to finish.

Many of the recipes have been tweaked and perfected in Australia, adding a local flavour to the book while respecting the flavours and ingredients of regional and traditional Italian dishes. Cauliflower and Hazelnut Strozzapreti with Gorgonzola will definitely be going onto the menu at home soon, while the recipe here for Conchiglie with Vodka Sauce is perfect for a dinner party as it is incredibly easy to prepare and very impressive.

“This is one of those dishes that seems to always be good no matter the circumstances,” says chef Casey Wall of Capitano, Melbourne.  

The recipes are accompanied by full-page food and travel photography, making it not just an indispensable cooking companion but a book for armchair travellers who want to explore Italy from the comfort of their lounge room.

Buy your copy of   Gourmet Italian  from Book Depository now (free delivery worldwide).

Buy your copy of   Gourmet Italian from Australian-owned Booktopia.

CONCHIGLIE WITH VODKA SAUCE

Serves 4 to 6

400 gm dried conchiglie or similarly shaped pasta 750 ml (3 cups) tomato sugo 250 ml (1 cup) pouring cream 80 ml vodka

Onion-garlic butter: 100 gm butter, chopped 250 gm onion (about 3 small), thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

For onion-garlic butter, melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add onion, garlic and 2 tsp salt, cover with a lid and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft (25 to 30 minutes). Transfer to a blender and purée (be careful, hot butter will spit).

Cook pasta in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until al dente (10 to 12 minutes). Drain, reserving pasta water. Meanwhile, combine tomato sauce, onion-garlic butter, cream and vodka in a saucepan over high heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until reduced by a quarter and sauce is emulsified (8 to 10 minutes).

Fold pasta into sauce, adding a splash of pasta water if needed to help thin out the sauce (it should coat the pasta evenly). Serve immediately.

Recipe and image from Italian: Big Flavours, Classic Dishes , published by Gourmet Traveller and reproduced with the publisher’s permission.

This story originally appeared in PS News.

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Gourmet Traveller Everyday

Taking fresh produce and quality ingredients, this collection of recipes shows how simple it is to create everyday dishes from scratch. Featuring over 100 seasonal recipes that are easy and quick to prepare but with the hallmark elegance of Australian Gourmet Traveller, this book will appeal to people who lead busy lives but still want to make and enjoy delicious and stylishly presented food. From lighter meals to more substantial mains, and offering meat, seafood and vegetarian options, each recipe has been carefully chosen with today’s busy cook in mind, to bring simple and satisfying food to the table every day of the week.

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RecipeTin Eats

Fast Prep, Big Flavours

My cookbook "Dinner" now available!

Smoked trout dip or spread (budget gourmet).

I like to read luxe food magazines so I can find the hidden gems that are fast and easy on the wallet. Smoked trout is one of the best value smoked fish and widely available at everyday supermarkets. Use it to make this fancy looking Smoked Trout Dip!

Like Smoked Salmon Pots , Smoked Trout Dip or Spread are ideal for spreading onto crackers, crusty bread or even buttery brioche for an extra luxe touch. It can also be served as a dip for these as well as fresh, crunchy vegetables.

Smoked Trout Dip or Spread

“This is one of those starters that looks posh but only takes about 10 minutes to make. And it just gets better with time. You can make it up to a week ahead!”

I like to read luxe food magazines (like Gourmet Traveller) and pick out the recipes that are do-able and affordable by “real” people with “real” budgets like me. That’s not to say that Gourmet Traveller recipes are all unrealistic. But generally they take time to make, require a certain level of confidence in the kitchen, special equipment, or gourmet/expensive ingredients. So I usually reserve Gourmet Traveller recipes for special occassions.

So I get a bit of a kick out of finding a “gourmet” recipe in Gourmet Traveller that ticks my all boxes: easy, fast and affordable , as well as having the added bonus of being posh .

This recipe for Smoked Trout Dip aka Potted Smoked Trout is one of these finds. At first I dismissed it as “looks delicious but expensive ingredients”. But later that day I passed the seafood store and noticed the price tag for Smoked Trout. It was one of the cheapest items there – $15/kg ($7.50/lb)! The trout is sold whole, with the skin, head and tail in tact (the skin peels off easily and the flesh is very easy to remove).

Note: I did happen to pass the refrigerated seafood section at the supermarket later and noticed that the vacuum seal packs of smoked trout fillets costs about 3 times as much! So get it fresh from the fish shop if you live in Australia. But if you happen to live somewhere where vacuum sealed smoked trout fillets are as good value as whole smoked trout, get that instead – and I want to be you. 🙂

“This recipe calls for creme fraiche. But you can substitute with sour cream which is a very close substitute. The version I gave my mum to taste test which she LOVED was made with sour cream. :-)”

This Potted Smoked Trout is smokey and creamy with the freshness of dill and lemon. It spreads like a pate (but no liver!) and while it is great served on the day, it just gets better and better with time (it can be kept for up to 1 week).

This recipe serves 4 as a starter. You can serve one big pot to share, or make little ones. I made 2 medium size ones.

So for your next dinner party, will you be going le Gourmet on le Budget?  – Nagi

Hungry for more? Subscribe to my newsletter and follow along on Facebook , Pinterest and Instagram for all of the latest updates.

Smoked Trout Dip / Potted Smoked Trout (le Budget le Gourmet)

Ingredients.

• ▢ 1 stick / 4 oz / 120 g unsalted butter , roughly chopped
• ▢ 1 eschallot (golden shallot), finely diced (Note 1)
• ▢ 1 garlic clove , very finely chopped
• ▢ Rind of 1 lemon , very finely grated (yellow part only, the white part is bitter)
• ▢ 1 1/2 tbsp lemon juice
• ▢ 1 lb / 500g whole smoked trout
• ▢ Pinch of cayenne pepper
• ▢ 4 oz / 120g creme fraiche (or sub with full fat sour cream) (Note 2)
• ▢ 1 tbsp cream (full fat, not whipped)
• ▢ 1/4 cup fresh dill , coarsely chopped
• ▢ 2 tbsp chives , coarsely chopped

Instructions

• Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat until melted, then pour 2/3 into a bowl and set aside.
• Add the shallot, garlic and lemon rind to the pan and let it cook gently for 3 to 5 minutes until soft and translucent (it should not brown). You will only need to stir it occasionally.
• Meanwhile, remove the skin off the trout and discard. Use your hands to remove the flesh and place into a bowl, being careful to avoid the bones (you will be able to pull the flesh off the bones easily). Use a fork to flake the flesh. Discard the bones.
• Pour the shallot butter mixture into the bowl with the trout.
• Add lemon juice, cayenne pepper, creme fraiche, cream and herbs. Stir gently until well combined. Do a taste test and add salt and pepper if required. You may not need salt as smoked trout is often salty (I only add a tiny pinch).
• Spoon into jars or ramekins (1 large, 2 medium or 4 small) and smooth the surface.
• Pour over the reserved butter until the top is covered.
• Place in the refrigerator to set. (Note: Original recipe set to freeze it for 5 - 10 minutes first but I found that this caused the surface of the butter to crack).
• This can be served on the day you make it, but it gets even better with time. It can be made up to a week in advance.
• Serve with fresh or toasted bread.

Recipe Notes:

Nutrition Information:

Hi, i'm nagi .

I believe you can make great food with everyday ingredients even if you’re short on time and cost conscious. You just need to cook clever and get creative!

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September 12, 2021 at 10:00 am

June 19, 2020 at 3:47 pm

Hi Nagi, can I make this with smoked salmon? I can’t find whole smoked trout here. If yes, how many grams do I need? Thanks so much

December 10, 2019 at 5:57 am

hi nagi just thought;d…you can buy whole smoked trout in the refrigerator seafood section at woolworths here in austalia I buy it all the time gryvacced excuse the sopelling wont let me delete merry xmas to you dozer and your mum and thanks for all your wonderful recipes xo

December 10, 2019 at 9:05 am

Yes and isn’t it amazing Betty, I absolutely adore smoked trout! ❤️

September 13, 2016 at 1:13 am

Hi Nagi! How is it that I missed this one! Now I really want smoked trout! Years ago we used to get the best smoked trout and smoked shrimp at a fish shack near us in MI. One store here has a fish counter and they will order fish for you so i believe I’m going to ask for some trout next time we are there so Gary can put in in the smoker! You KNOW how much we love your posh salmon pots!!

September 14, 2016 at 8:25 pm

Oooh – wait – Gary has a smoker?? I don’t think I knew that! I bet he is a champ with the smoker!!

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