dolomites new york times travel

Europe Chevron

Italy Chevron

Discovering the Dolomites, Italy's Most Deliciously Underrated Mountain Region

By Jemima Sissons

All products featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Northern Italy is one of our Best Places to Go in Europe for 2024 , part of our global guide to the Best Places to Go in 2024 —find more travel inspiration here .

When winter’s chill was thawed by the blossoming of spring, our family would set off for the long drive from the Oxfordshire downs to our holiday house in Le Marche, central Italy . Cruising through the arable heartlands of Europe, my heart would skip a beat as we neared the totemic slate gradients of the Italian Alps. Snaking over the Brenner Pass, it felt like being spirited to another world: a sky-bright Narnia, as we emerged blinking-eyed into the Dolomites sun on the other side. Stopping in simple, family-run hotels for the night, the breakfasts were a joyful, modest but perfectly formed ode to the Sud Tyrol locale—the creamiest Sterzinger yogurts that we savored with crimson forest-fresh lingonberries, flower-flecked cheese (for breakfast!) draped with silky threads of marjoram honey from their farm. Today, most hip restaurants are ingredient-led, but these these mountain families have been doing it for centuries.

Lago di Braies in Pragser Wildsee, Dolomites

I returned more than 30 years later, and while you can probably add a zero to what we paid for our roadside inns, the breakfast spread at the region's hero hotel, Forestis , still recalls that homage to the terroir that I remembered: glistening slivers of speck, creamy moguls of pistachio nut butter slathered on hay-baked rye bread, and granola laden with dried fruits from a bosky forage.

This adults-only hotel built on the site of a former pulmonary sanatorium—where the Plose mountains overlooked by its rooms are bathed ice blue in the mornings and glow russet red at dusk—shapes its entire cuisine around its neighboring valleys, vineyards , villages and woodlands. Beard lichen, ribwort plantain and lady’s bedstraw find their prosaic way onto loins of venison, fillets of river rainbow trout and parcels of hand-curled gnocchi, wild juniper flavoring lamb and salads consisting entirely of flora you have never heard of. Everything is imbued with local flavors—from the postbox shiny apples in the monastic spa to the pine-scented spring water from the fountain in the spruce-honed lobby. A stroll through eiderdown soft forest reveals an edible carpet, from larch blossoms to ground elder. It is worth hauling yourself up the Giogo Bello observation deck to earn the evening’s banquet—the room price includes a seven-course set dinner every evening, taken in the almost cinematic dining room with circular booths all facing the floor-to-ceiling windows—except the film is the moving shadows of eventide and shape-shifting mountains.

The Dolomites—meaning pale mountains—span a vast area of 6,000 square miles, over 2000 mountains and hug Austria to the north (the South Tyrol was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1919) and Verona in the south and incorporate several regions within its boundaries, from Alto Adige to Trentino and Belluno. With its proximity to Austria, many travelers fly to Innsbruck; otherwise, Verona or even Venice provide the gateways—or occasionally Bolzano, where there are some direct flights. It is a region of old lore and fiercely proud tradition. In this Italo-Germanic fusion, onion dome churches and gaily painted wooden chalets sit alongside frothy cappuccinos and delis selling handmade pasta. A network of alte vie—high paths—connect the mountains, dotted with rifugi—mountain huts, many of which are now being turned into gastronomic destinations. The region even boasts a third language (alongside Italian and German), Ladino, a Romance language with 35,000 speakers, mainly based in the Alta Badia region.

By Jessica Puckett

By Devra Ferst

By Melissa Liebling-Goldberg

By Olivia Morelli

One of the loyal speakers is Markus Valentini, owner of mountain hut Bioch, reachable from the villages of La Villa, Corvara and San Cassiano via cable car and a gentle walk. What started as a simple rifugio with a handful of tables over thirty years ago now has six full-time chefs and an enviable 11,000-bottle wine list with a focus on local grapes such as Schiava, Lagrein and Trollinger, but with a smattering of interesting inclusions (one does not expect to find a Kazakh Pinot lurking halfway down the list). These are supped alongside handmade tortelli with speck cream, buffalo ricotta on a bed of mashed risina beans, or Austro-inspired apple strudel with a honey-sweet Sissi Passito wine.

It's a 30-minute stroll to the Piz Sorega lift, which winds down to the Aman Rosa Alpina . It opens this winter after a two-year refurbishment and, in summer, guests help forage for aglio orsino—a local wild garlic—alongside mountainside BBQs searing hunks of valley veal with wild herbs.

Wooden beehives in countryside

In the other direction, the Arlara and Col Alto lift dispatches weary hikers to La Perla, Italian in name. Still, half close your eyes, and you might expect Julia Andrews to come waltzing out. Here, dirndl and loden-clad waiting staff serve up elevated Michelin-starred dishes such as goose with caramelised onions in its La Stua de Michil restaurant; in the village its Ladin-focused menu at Restaurant Ladinia offers mountain fuel delicacies such as pressed dumplings with cabbage salad alongside more delicate barley soup with spinach turta—an ancient dish where Ladin households still flavour their hand-me-down recipes.

The culinary riches of the region are celebrated in both the simplest and the most fanciful fare – where mountain huts reside alongside Michelin dining establishments. At the Gostner Schwaige in the Seiser Alm, somewhat eccentric hut owner Franz Mulser doles out the crisp white Muller Thurgau wine over a plate of six kinds of cheese he has made over the winter – prandial laughter is accompanied by the trill of cowbells outside from his resident dairy queens – there’s an edelweiss camembert, a muscat infused cream cheese and a fenugreek speckled mountain cheese served on red beet shuttelbrot (a Tyrolean crispbread). The star of the show here, however, is the heublutensuppen soup – an “if I tell you I will have to kill you” secret recipe of 15 herbs and flowers, served in a hollowed-out homemade sourdough bowl. After a thigh-busting stomp through the undulating terrain under the guiding gaze of the Val Gardena peaks, the silky broth is as delicious as it is unplaceable. Is it mushroom? “No,” says Mulser. Is it cheese? Guess again. As we scoop out umami-rich soup-soaked spoons of bread from the inside of the sourdough bowl, we are left baffled but aware that it is one of the most delicious things we have ever eaten.

From here, it is an easy walk to the shiny futuristic modernist Como Alpina in the Alpe de Suisi, with its rotunda crafted from quartzite and angular wood – an architectural spaceship that’s landed into the folds of hills under the looming Sassalongo massif. Decked out in industrial lights and posters of old Tyrolean ski societies, pizzas with bubbling charred crusts and oozing stracciatella comfort families and all-day hikers. The main hotel's afternoon trestles laid with slices of strudel, mortadella, and pecorino sandwiches—complimentary to guests—are taken with treacle thick espressos or Aperols, depending on your poison.

As GM Julian Seeber explains over a lavish spread of pepper-rimmed salami and cumin goat's cheese, accompanied by mounds of piquant homemade horseradish, “We have the German precise way of doing things alongside the Italian passion. That’s what makes the region—and the cooking—so unique.”

Where to stay in The Dolomites

One of Alta Badia’s most beloved Dolomite hotels and home to the region’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, La Stua de Michil, La Perla in Corvara in Val Badia, has welcomed guests since 1956. The hotel now houses new rooms, including the two-bedroom Dolomite suite with a double balcony. Take an aperitvo of Franciacorta and local hams in the treehouse, which can house two people for drinks. In summer, the hotel offers everything from rock climbing courses to golf at 5,500 feet. Chef Simone Cantafio organizes immersive cooking sessions in the Stua de Michil restaurant, concluding with a wine and tasting session.

An adults-only refuge focused on wellness, run by husband-and-wife team Stefan and Teresa Hinteregga, the spruce-scented rooms are cool white and minimalist. Tower suites have a day bed outside to soak in the panoramic views. The spa is based around the ancient Celtic reverence for nature and comes with an indoor-outdoor swimming pool, a Wyda room (a Celtish form of yoga practised here), and ‘silence’ rooms. The cuisine is first-rate, with Chef Roland Lamprecht’s fare drawn from the surrounding forest. Don’t miss the spectacular hikes—accessible by cable car, or for the hardier, by foot. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more calming sanctum for a long weekend break.

Como Alpina Dolomites

What was just the Alpina Dolomites, the Singaporean brand Como took it over last year and, along with it, a palette refresh—out with the taupe and neutral palette and in blue-hued lounge areas and bedrooms. The new Trattoria dell’Alpe offers food from Venice and Verona, focusing on fish. However, Sassolungo delivers crisped coated schnitzel alongside Como's signature healthy fare for hearty mountain food. The labyrinthine sauna complex nods to the region’s German roots in etiquette—so make sure to read the rules and leave modesty (and swimsuits) at the door.

The best restaurants in The Dolomites

Hotel gardena.

After a day soaking in the Alpine views on Via Ferrata and well-marked trails above, the Hotel Gardena in Ortesei heads back to their One Michelin-starred Anna Stuben for a blow-out treat. The tasting menu is elevated trad cuisine—pumpkin comes with seasoned buffalo cheese, and gnocchi is crafted from beetroot and cave-aged cheese, with local riffs such as Villnoser Valley lamb alongside a gremolata. Pair with Alto Adige wines such as the blossom-rich St. Paul’s Praeclarus Brut.

Alpinn Food Space

A glass-boxed restaurant located in the LUMUM—the Museum of Mountain Photography—in Kronplatz spearheaded by Dolomites-born chef Norbert Niederkofler and designer Martino Gampner, Alpinn explores the terroir’s seasonal produce, with a focus on small local producers and an aim to cut down waste as much as possible, from reusing potato peelings to vegetable water. Having gained three Michelin stars at St Hubertus in Rosa Alpina (now part of the Aman group), Norbert opened the restaurant in 2023. Tuck into onion cooked in ash with Sasso Nero cheese or marinated golden trout fish with a silky yolk sauce and poppy seeds.

Gostner Schwaige

Under the looming Mount Schlern, the mountain huts service hikers all summer. They come for a three-course feast – don’t miss the rhubarb strudel – or a simple cheese and bread snack perched on the benches outside. In addition to making its own cheeses and delicious hay soup, the restaurant’s twinkly proprietor Franz Musler runs cooking courses in the summer, with a focus on herbs and flowers growing in the surrounding pastures.

Address: Gostner Schwaige, Saltriastrasse 13, 39040 Seiseralm, BZ, Italy Website: aussergost.co

The best things to do in The Dolomites

Wine and chocolate tasting at ciasa salares.

The family-owned hotel Ciasa Salares offers beautiful chalet-style rooms in the foothills of the Fane National Park. Still, it also has incredibly stocked wine and cheese rooms, both offering guests and visitors experiences. The chocolate room houses over 120 varieties of chocolate, spanning Vietnam and beyond, with a tasting led by a cocoa master. You won’t even scratch the surface of the 23,000 bottle list in the wine room, but a sampling led by sommelier Jan Clemens is a journey through Alto Adige, biodynamic or Italian regional wines.

Ladin Experience

Spend a few hours immersed with Ladin beekeepers, cheesemakers, herbalists and break makers on the Not Ladins experience, where you can live alongside a Ladin-speaking local. From making bath salts from pine needles on a woodland walk to learning to make typical ‘pucia’ flatbread of the region, join a small group to learn traditional pastimes.

Preidlhof – Fie Lakes experience

The wonderful Preidlhof wellbeing resort runs programmes that restore the body and mind – from ‘trauma therapy’ with Sicilian Shaman Stefano Battaglia to sleep retreats – as well as some of the best saunas in the Dolomites. However, it is worth taking time out from a stay for a half-day trip to the gastronomy tour of Lake Fie to discover mountain herbs and woodland cooking. After plucking forest herbs, you can learn to grind flour at an ancient mill before a cookery lesson crafting tagliatelle or e Schlutzkrapfen from the flour.

A version of this story originally appeared on Condé Nast Traveller .

Recommended

By signing up you agree to our User Agreement (including the class action waiver and arbitration provisions ), our Privacy Policy & Cookie Statement and to receive marketing and account-related emails from Traveller. You can unsubscribe at any time. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

The New York Times

In transit | in the dolomites, new hut-to-hut trips for skiers, in the dolomites, new hut-to-hut trips for skiers.

In a snowy twist on inn-to-inn hikes, new rifugio-to-rifugio – also known as hut-to-hut — trips in the Dolomites offer skiers the chance to travel laterally as well as vertically.

The Italy-based ski outfitter Dolomite Mountains plans to expand its “ski safaris” next winter that range over 746 possible miles of runs in 12 ski areas linked under one ski pass.

The program began last winter with two itineraries; the trips will expand to six new routes, including a gourmet-focused trip featuring meals from Michelin-starred chefs in the huts and a family-friendly one.

Most trips start in Alta Badia and explore Dolomites peaks where World War I battles raged, the celebrated ski area of Cortina d’Ampezzo and the Marmolada Glacier on the region’s highest peak at nearly 11,000 feet.

The rifugi, or mountain huts, primarily serve hikers in summer with only a few open in winter. Accommodations range from dormitory-style bunks to private bedrooms with attached baths.

Available mid-December until April, all outings are guided by English-speaking ski experts (though cheaper, nonguided options are available), and luggage is transferred each evening to meet skiers at their mountain hut or village hotel. Custom-planned itineraries offer options for all levels of skiers. Four-day trips start at 1,820 euros (about $2,310).

What's Next

• Make a Pledge

Hiking (and Eating) Your Way Through the Dolomites

New york times writer robert draper delves into italy’s most striking geographical region -- and its equally noteworthy cuisine..

The Dolomites, located in northeastern Italy, are a mountain range most famously known for its skiing; however, come summer, when the snow melts to uncover lush green grass and a rainbow of flowering buds, this region begins to reveal its true beauty and draw.

Perhaps that’s why, since the late 1800’s, travelers have converged from all over the world to trek their way through this hilly terrain during the milder months. But, none have been so rewarded for their upward-bound adventures as the travelers of today: Not only are rates lower, but a new movement in local haute cuisine means that hikers are now being greeted on hilltops with some of the country’s most lauded culinary offerings.

It’s time to hike the hills, soak in the beauty, and indulge in the delicacies of Italy’s Dolomites. Get the full experience at  The New York Times and see more stunning photos.

• August 21, 2015

Image Credit

Share your favorite recipe , and we may feature it on our website. Join the conversation , and share recipes, travel tips and stories.

Second-Home Buyers in the US Are Pouring Into Italy’s Wine Country

Piedmont, a region of Italy bordering France and Switzerland, sits at the foot of the Alps. It’s known for sophisticated cuisine and wines such as Barolo.

Italy’s Spirit Shines Through as Fire Lights the Tuscan Sky

Fire festivals have burned for centuries across Italy to symbolize renewal, celebrate saints and light the way.

Tour du Mont Blanc

The New York Times takes us on an unexpected journey.

• NORTH AMERICA
• Thoughtful Travel

Visiting the Dolomites for the First Time | Ultimate Guide & Top Tips

Visiting the Dolomites and wondering how to plan the best trip? From must-do hikes to the most photogenic spots and great places to visit, here are all the tips you need to plan your perfect visit to this beautiful region of Italy.

My first visit to the Italian Dolomites was heavily influenced by my newfound love for hiking and my long-term love for photography. Since that first Dolomites road trip , I’ve been back several times, and I fall a little more for this beautiful region every time.

Visiting the Dolomites is an absolute must if you’re planning a holiday in Italy, and I’d do my best to add it to any first trip to Europe .

If you’re searching for soaring mountain peaks, sparkling alpine lakes and the dreamiest views, the Dolomites are for you. Not to mention the divine food, drink and accommodation scattered throughout the lush green valleys.

After four months exploring the Dolomites, I’ve written this guide to help anybody planning a visit to the Dolomites for the first time. I want to help you find the best hikes in the region, hidden gems and photography spots, as well as incredible experiences, food, drink and accommodation in the Italian mountains.

Here are my top tips for a great trip in the Dolomites, including my favourite experiences in this northeastern corner of Italy and a whole lot of practical advice to plan your visit.

VISITING THE DOLOMITES

How to travel | Renting a car is the easiest way to get around

When to go | I adore autumn in the Dolomites, but don’t sleep on ski season or summer hikes!

Where to stay | Base yourself in two or three towns and explore from there

Top Tip | It’s essential to book ahead in the summer months, or you’ll be left without a place to stay

Best for | outdoors lovers, photographers and foodies!

Getting to the Dolomites by Train

Visiting the dolomites in spring, public transport in the dolomites, wellness in the dolomites, area | tre cime di lavaredo, self-catering.

• What's the best way to see the Dolomites?

ULTIMATE GUIDE TO VISITING THE DOLOMITES FOR THE FIRST TIME

The features in this post were hand-selected by a picky diva (that’s me) and some of them are affiliate links. If you buy via these, I may earn a commission on some of these awesome recommendations at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your wonderful support – Cat.

A visit to the Dolomites is often overlooked in favour of Italy’s more famous attractions. Rome’s incredible historical sites, Florence’s stunning museums, Tuscany’s rolling hills and the magical canals of Venice have lodged themselves in the collective subconscious so well that they tend to be where most visitors end up.

I’d been to Italy half a dozen times myself before I ever made it to this stunning Italian mountain range tucked up in the north of the country. I don’t want you to make the same mistake I did! Visiting the Dolomites should be right up there on your list of things to do in Italy, even if you can only spare a few days in the region.

Where are the Dolomites?

The Dolomites are right up the top of Italy, in the northern Italian Alps, tucked up against the border with Austria. In fact, one of my favourite hikes in the Dolomites, Olperehütte, is reached from Austria rather than Italy!

A Brief History of the Dolomites

Formed from dolomitic limestone, the jagged peaks and plunging ravines create a landscape that has to be seen to be believed. I throw the word “breathtaking” around a lot when it comes to visiting the Dolomites, but when you go, you’ll see why.

Designated as a UNESCO world heritage site in 2009, one of the other things that make the Dolomites so fascinating is that the planet’s history is literally carved into these mountains. The beautiful pale rock spires used to sit at the bottom of a tropical sea when dinosaurs ruled the Earth; now you’re looking up at mountains where once you’d have looked down at a coral reef!

Apart from the fossil record, this region of Northern Italy also tells a very human story. In 1914, as part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire , the Dolomites became the frontlines of the First World War, waged here between Italy and Austria. The tunnels and fortifications that once sheltered soldiers fighting desperate battles can still be visited today.

The region of South Tyrol , which includes some of the Dolomites’ most famous sites, was annexed from Austria by Italy in 1918, ushering in an identity crisis that’s still very much in evidence today.

Visiting the Dolomites feels like taking a trip to Austria. Most people here speak German rather than Italian, and there’s even a third local language with its own distinct cultur e called Ladin.

From the orderly organisation to the language, legends and local people, the Dolomites are very much a unique part of Italy.

How to Get to the Dolomites

Getting to the dolomites by plane.

There’s no “Dolomites” airport or station, so you do need to do a bit of research to work out the best way to get to the Dolomites from where you live. The region isn’t that big – you could drive north to south or east to west in about four hours – and most people pick up a rental car for a road trip through the Dolomites .

Fortunately, visiting the Dolomites is easy from most international destinations because it’s close to many major airport hubs. Most people visit the Dolomites in a loop, so pick the airport with a direct flight from where you live and enter the Dolomites at the closest point.

DISTANCE TO THE DOLOMITES FROM MAJOR EUROPEAN AIRPORTS

AUSTRIA | Innsbruck 90km | 1h 15min driving time

ITALY | Verona 150km | 1h 45min

ITALY | Venice Marco Polo 150km | 2h

ITALY | Milan Malpensa 320km | 3h 40min

GERMANY | Munich 350km | 4h

Getting to the Dolomites by Car

Innsbruck is actually the closest airport to the Dolomites, but if you’re hiring a car, it tends to be cheaper in Italy. It may not be enough to offset any inconvenience of more extended layovers though!

I always recommend using the Discover Cars aggregator site to check prices and book your rental car and Insurance4carhire to cover excess insurance. Picking up a rental car in Bolzano is a good option if you’re taking public transport to the region.

If you live in Europe or are visiting with a car and planning to drive to the Dolomites, it’s worth noting that there are some outrageously expensive toll roads. For example, if you were to drive from France via Turin and Milan, you’d be looking at €250 in fees unless you take the slow roads!

Getting to the Dolomites by Bus

Bolzano is the central transport hub in the Dolomites. You can also rent vehicles here, making it an excellent destination to start your trip if you’d rather pick up a car on arrival or take public transport throughout the region.

The AltoAdigeBus route goes to thousands of destinations throughout South Tyrol from all the major airports and transport hubs. Flixbus is a good option for the bigger towns if you’re coming from elsewhere in Europe. You can then transfer to a local bus service.

Honestly, with the number of train changes and cost, this is unlikely to be a convenient way to get to your destination, especially since you’ll have to take another means of transport from Bolzano. If this is something you want to investigate, I recommend using Omio to check your options.

READ THIS | How to Get to the Dolomites (coming soon)

The Best Time to Visit the Dolomites

I love visiting the Dolomites in autumn. The mountains glow pink in the setting sun, the hills are painted shades of gold from the larch trees, and the skies are powder-puff blue. It’s hands down my favourite time of the year here.

TIP | Mid-October is the best time of year to visit the Dolomites for peak autumn colour.

Having said that, these are the mountains, and the weather is unpredictable. Some years autumn comes early, and some years it doesn’t come at all.

Visiting the Dolomites in Autumn

When I visited Croda da Lago in autumn , I was fortunate to have the most fantastic experience. However, some of the other photographers I spoke to there said that three years prior, the trees were all still green, and the area was covered in snow during the exact same week!

Peak colour tends to be in mid-October, and the weather is usually pretty settled at that time of year. You should, however, be prepared for anything!

In the valleys, daytime temperatures from September to November average 11-25°C (50-77°F) and night temperatures are 0-11°C (30-50°F).

Snow can arrive at any time, and temperatures are obviously much colder as you go up the mountains. Every 100m gain in altitude leads to at least 1°C decrease in temperature.

Later in autumn, visiting becomes more challenging as chairlifts close, hiking trails shut down for the winter, and accommodation closes before the start of the winter season.

Visiting the Dolomites in Summer

Summer is high season for alpine hiking and the busiest time of year for Dolomites visitors. It’s the warmest, but also the wettest, time of year for a visit. European school holidays also coincide with the summer months of June, July and August.

The temperatures at lower altitudes are a lovely 27-29°C (80-84°F) during the day and 13-15°C (55-59°F) at night.

Everything’s open – chairlifts, accommodation, activities and restaurants – and public transport options are available to all the popular destinations. Summer is definitely the easiest time of year to visit the Dolomites, but you’ll need to book everything in advance and prepare for crowds.

Visiting the Dolomites in Winter

The Dolomites are massively overlooked as a winter destination – the skiing here is wonderful, and the apres-ski fantastic. I’d insist everyone go here for ski season, but I also selfishly want to keep it on the down-low!

Val Gardena and Alta Badia are right up there as a couple of the best ski resorts in the whole of the European Alps for me.

READ THIS | Best Ski Resorts in the Dolomites (coming soon)

If you’re visiting the Dolomites for snowy mountains and winter sports, January is usually the best month for snow. December to March is peak winter, but snow and ice often persist at higher altitudes all the way into late April.

This is probably the only time of year that I wouldn’t recommend visiting the Dolomites unless you’re there to experience the epic wellness culture .

Only the bigger resorts are available for accommodation, the winter sports have stopped, and the hiking trails are yet to open.

If you want to visit Italy in the spring, my advice is to head further south!

READ THIS | The Best Time to Visit the Dolomites (coming soon)

How Long Should you spend Visiting the Dolomites?

I’ve spent months meandering through the region, but I know that, for most people visiting the Dolomites, that’s just not an option.

If you’re planning to visit the region as part of a more extended trip visiting Italy , then I would allocate at least three days in the Dolomites . That’s enough to enable you to get a feel for the region, do one or two of the best day hikes and some of the best things to do .

For those of you who want to dedicate more time to the area, perhaps doing a longer multi-day hike or just take it a bit slower, then ten days to two weeks is my recommendation.

Obviously, the longer, the better and if you’re lucky enough to have several weeks to spare, you should take a look at my three week road trip itinerary (coming soon)!

How to Get Around in the Dolomites

Hiring a car in the dolomites.

Although I’m a big fan of public transport, it’s often not practical for most travellers in the Dolomites, particularly if you’re wanting to get to trailheads early and depart late. Renting a car and driving will save you a vast amount of planning stress, and since I’ve always driven in the Dolomites, it’s definitely my recommendation.

Hiring a car in Italy is easy – it’s just a question of where to collect it from. If you’re travelling from overseas, then picking up your car at the airport will be the most simple option. I always use and recommend Discover Cars to check prices and book, mainly since they include comprehensive insurance.

TIP | You need either a European Driving License or an International Driving Permit to hire a car in Italy.

For those coming from elsewhere in Europe, especially if you’re arriving by train, renting a car in Bolzano is a good option.

Although the roads here are steep and winding, they’re very well maintained, and driving in the Dolomites is a breeze.

Although the roads in the Dolomites are good, they’re also not built for large volumes of traffic. There’s a big push in the region to ease congestion on the roads by helping visitors get around on public transport.

Your best option for working out how to get around via public transport is by using SuedTirolMobil . You can check routes and times and buy tickets on their website or mobile app .

Visiting the Dolomites by public transport in the summer is considerably easier than at other times of year since many routes stop once the snow sets in.

A lot of the hotels in the Dolomites offer a Guest Pass, which provides free public transport and other benefits. You can read about South Tyrol Guest Cards here , and be sure to check with your hotel if they offer it included in the cost of your room.

If you’re planning to be in the area, want to use public transport, but aren’t staying in a local hotel, it’s worth looking at the Mobilcard , which is valid for 1, 3, or 7 days of consecutive travel. There are also regional public transport cards which are another great money-saving option.

Best Things to Do in the Dolomites

If you’re anything like me, then you probably think that hiking is the only thing to do in the Dolomites. We were wrong!

When I visited the Dolomites for the first time, I was blown away by the sheer variety of things to do. The activity I did most of was, indeed, hiking, but I also indulged my love of photography, scared myself shitless on a via ferrata, cycled, camped and indulged in some of the best spa experiences the Dolomites has to offer!

Here’s a quick summary, but for all the details, you should read my post covering all the Best Things to Do in the Dolomites .

Hiking in the Dolomites

Whether you’re someone who hates the idea of lacing up a pair of hiking boots or that friend who suggests a week-long trek as the best holiday ever, the Dolomites have something for you!

Most of you won’t have the time to explore anything more than the best day hikes in the region, and even narrowing those down can be tricky!

MY TOP 3 DOLOMITES DAY HIKES Best for Autumn | Croda da Lago Best for Beginners | Tre Cime di Lavaredo Best for Experienced Hikers | Lago di Sorapis

Several day hikes can be turned into overnight hikes by booking a bed at one of the many rifugi dotted through the mountains. Staying at a rifugio is an absolute must-do as far as I’m concerned, and you can make it happen even if you’re only in the area for a couple of days!

For more of a challenge for experienced hikers, there are the incredible multi-day Alta Via routes . Alta Via 1 and 2 are the most popular, and you need to get organised and book in advance to be sure of a bed for the night!

As always, make sure you have all the right hiking gear and Dolomites maps before you head off on your adventure.

Via Ferrata in the Dolomites

As a person who isn’t very good with heights, the via ferrati pushed me waaaay out of my comfort zone. If you’re an experienced climber, they probably won’t make you break a sweat!

If you’ve never heard of them before, I can best describe them as a helping hand from those who’ve tackled a scary route before!

You’ll find anything from steel cables to steps, ladders, rungs and anchor points fixed into the rock. The idea is that you’ll clip on with a cable and remove the risk of plunging to your death down a mountain. See? Helpful.

They were initially constructed during World War I as a means of helping soldiers navigate the mountains safely. Now, they’re a way to help hikers get through exposed sections of the trails without having to have formal climbing knowledge.

Via ferrata aren’t unique to the Dolomites, but they were pioneered here, so they’re a great place to try some of the best via ferrata for beginners .

I’m going to put my ‘responsible human’ hat on here to tell you the three things that you always need before you tackle a via ferrata:

• The appropriate level of travel insurance to cover you for extreme activities
• The correct via ferrata gear
• A guide or experienced buddy

Unless you’re very experienced, I’d recommend taking a tour with somebody who is! Why not try this highly-rated guided via ferrata tour?

Don’t let being afraid of heights put you off – I’m terrible with heights, and I still love this activity!

Road trips in the Dolomites

Have I mentioned yet today how much I love a road trip?

Well, a road trip in the Dolomites is amazing. The scenery is mind-blowing, the roads are great, and there’s literally a jaw-dropping view around almost every corner.

If you want to cover the most ground, then this is definitely the best way to do it. You’ll be able to get to hiking trails that you wouldn’t otherwise be able to reach, see sights that you couldn’t otherwise get to, and generally have the most amazing experience.

My only caveat is that if you’re travelling in the height of summer, you might find yourself sitting in traffic more often than not, so save the road trips for early summer or autumn.

Photography in the Dolomites

It’s difficult to take a bad photo in the Dolomites. Those soaring peaks and lush valleys do the work for you. Having said that, there are some phenomenal photo spots in the Dolomites that you shouldn’t miss if you love photography.

I think that the landscape itself ignites the creative spark, so don’t blame me if you find yourself running around looking for the best angles or deciding to hike back an hour in the wrong direction because you think you missed that perfect viewpoint!

Some spots you’ll visit will make it difficult for you to get the exact shot you want (or have seen on the ‘gram), but please don’t be tempted to ignore signs and fences to copy somebody else. Trespassing and putting yourself in danger really aren’t worth it. And nobody likes an asshole.

Camping in the Dolomites

Camping in the Dolomites requires some planning. Most of the region is a protected park, and wild camping is illegal as a result.

There are, however, some amazing campsites in the Dolomites , and it’s an incredibly affordable way to travel in the region. Whether you’ve got a campervan, motorhome or just a tent, you’re spoiled for choice.

A lot of the cable car parking areas will also allow you to stay overnight for a fee, and it’s one of the best ways to be the first one at Lago di Braies for sunrise! I spent weeks camping in my van in the Dolomites and found it one of the best ways to experience the area.

Paragliding in the Dolomites

So listen, I wasn’t going to go paragliding in the Dolomites. I thought that I’d be terrified and that it wouldn’t be for me. Boy, was I wrong.

When three of my friends launched themselves off the hills on tandem paragliding flights, it looked like such fun that I immediately decided that I had to try it.

Wheeling through the air with stunning mountains on either side and little villages dotted through the valleys below was simply incredible. I loved every second of it, and no sooner had we landed than I wanted to do it all over again!

For me, it’s absolutely one of the best activities to do when you’re visiting the Dolomites. I went with Gardenafly and they were fabulous, but there are plenty of other locations for tandem paragliding in the Dolomites if their location doesn’t suit you.

Helicopter Tours in the Dolomites

If the thought of tandem paragliding is just too terrifying, or you’re not able to participate in that sort of activity, then why not take to the skies anyway?

It’s no secret that I love a scenic flight, and the Dolomites is an incredible place to experience one. You’ll get phenomenal views that you’d otherwise only experience if you have a drone.

Read the reviews, check availability and book your helicopter flight here !

Cycling in the Dolomites

If you’re a cycling fan and don’t mind hills, the Dolomites is a fantastic place to take a bike tour . You can bring your own bike or hire one from the dozens of shops throughout the area.

From road bikes to mountain biking, you can explore the region in whichever way you prefer – there are dedicated cycle paths in many places to keep you safe.

For those who like a challenge, you can take a tour that incorporates some of the most beautiful passes in the Dolomites. Check availability and book here .

Those of us who like an easier life (secretly think we’re not fit enough to cycle up a mountain) can take an e-bike tour through the region. You can check that out and book here .

Skiing in the Dolomites

Visiting the Dolomites in the winter is an opportunity to experience the magic of winter sports in the Italian Alps. Skiing in the Dolomites is hands down one of my favourite things to do in the area, and you get to see a whole different side of this part of Italy.

Home to the Winter Olympics, Cortina d’Ampezzo is also where you’ll find some of the best ski resorts in the Dolomites . All those cable cars that take you hiking in the summer are now your entry to groomed slopes and thrilling off-piste experiences.

Of course, downhill skiing isn’t all that’s on offer. You can also go snowboarding, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, paragliding or simply enjoy the apres-ski vibe in the mountains!

In the Dolomites, they take wellness seriously. There’s an entire industry dedicated to bettering your health, both physical and mental.

The spa hotels in the Dolomites are some of the most beautiful venues for relaxation – I think there’s nothing better than gazing out at the mountains while sitting in a sauna.

You can expect spa treatments, swimming pools, yoga, gyms, saunas and more. Honestly, I think that any itinerary in the Dolomites should include a couple of days where you pamper yourself. You deserve a massage after all the action!

Where to Go in the Dolomites

The easiest way to decide where to go when visiting the Dolomites is to break it down into the hikes or sights you don’t want to miss.

There are several main towns that you can base yourself in and use for day trips in the Dolomites. I’d recommend a minimum of 3 nights in one location unless you’re really stretched for time.

Here’s a quick guide to some of the most popular regions, the main towns to base yourself in, the best hikes in the area, and sights you shouldn’t miss.

Area | Val Gardena

Towns – Ortisei (St. Ulrich in German, Urtijëi in Ladin), Selva di Val Gardena (Wolkenstein in German, Sëlva in Ladin) and Santa Cristina.

Hikes – Sassolungo loop, Puez Circuit, Monte Pic, Gran Cir, the Sella crossing and Seceda .

Winter – Val Gardena is one of the main winter sports centres in the Dolomites.

Area | Alpe di Siusi

Towns – Kastelruth (Castelrotto in Italian, Ciastel in Ladin).

Hikes – you’re spoiled for choice in Alpe di Siusi , and there’s a lot more to explore .

Sights – a medicinal herb farm , the beautiful St Valentin’s church, and more .

Area | Val di Funes

Towns – Santa Maddalena, Tiso and San Pietro

Hikes – Some of my favourite hikes are in Val di Funes, including the Panoramaweg and the Adolf Munkel Trail (home to my favourite Geisler Alm restaurant!).

Sights – Don’t miss Insta-famous San Giovanni in Ranui and the Santa Maddalena Church.

Area | Alta Badia

Towns – Corvara, La Val (Wengen) and Badia (Abtei)

Hikes – Alta Badia is home to the fascinating Mt Lagazuoi , where you’ll find extensive WWI tunnels, and amazing summit hikes to Mt Piz Boe and Mt Sassongher .

Sights – don’t miss Via Ferrata Pisciadu , the busiest via ferrata in the Dolomites, or the stunning mountain passes of Passo Sella, Passo Pordoi, Passo di Falzarego and Passo delle Erbe.

Towns – Sesto (Sexten), Misurina, Dobbiaco (Toblach), San Candido (Innichen).

Hikes – Some favourites are the Cadini di Misurina viewpoint and Tre Cime di Lavaredo .

Sights – Lago di Braies , Lago Dobbiaco (Toblacher See).

Don’t Make These Beginner Mistakes Visiting the Dolomites

1. Not getting Travel Insurance

This is a huge no-no when you’re visiting the Dolomites. If you’re here in summer, then you’re almost certainly going to be hiking and maybe even tackling some via ferrata. Mountains can be dangerous, even to the most experienced hikers, so please don’t skip the travel insurance.

In winter, you’re probably here for skiing and other winter sports. Again, nobody plans to break an arm or a leg, but if you do, travel insurance is a must. Make sure you’ve got the correct level of cover for any activities you’re planning and any gear you’re taking with you.

2. Not booking in advance

Please don’t make the mistake of thinking you’ll be able to find something last minute, especially in summer. Accommodation sells out months in advance at the popular areas.

If you’re planning a multi-day hike and want to stay at one of the beautiful rifugi in the Dolomites, then you really need to book ahead.

3. Not doing your research

Visiting the Alpe de Siusi actually takes much more planning than you might think.

The toll road to Tre Cime di Lavaredo can significantly eat into your daily budget.

Lago di Braies can either be magical or a nightmare if you don’t know the seemingly thousands of rules that apply to your visit, especially in summer!

Some hikes are best done at certain times of year. Croda da Lago , for example, is best in Autumn, and some hikes become completely miserable at the first sign of colder weather.

4. Bringing the wrong clothes

You need hiking boots that you’ve broken in. Don’t even attempt the Dolomites in sneakers unless you don’t value your life.

It’s also the mountains, and it gets cold at altitude even in the summer, so make sure you bring your hiking layers !

5. Visiting at the wrong time of year

Spring in the Dolomites actually sucks. Most hiking trails don’t open until June, so visiting the Dolomites in May is a terrible idea.

Late autumn is also a gamble. Lifts aren’t open, winter sports aren’t happening, trails are dangerous, and there’s nowhere to stay or eat as everyone takes a well-earned break before the winter season starts.

6. Trying to do too much

Those winding mountain roads mean that everywhere takes longer to get to than you think.

It’s possible to rush around to see the highlights of the Dolomites in a long weekend, but I think you’ll be sorry that you didn’t give it more time. I think it’s better to pick one area as a base to explore if you’ve got limited time.

Where to Stay in the Dolomites

Have a look at the best things to do in the Dolomites, decide on your must-dos and then look at a map and the best places to stay in the Dolomites .

A lot of the things you like the look of are likely located in clusters since that’s how visiting the Dolomites works. Find a couple of towns that are located no more than an hour’s drive from these clusters, and then make those your base locations for a few nights.

Book early, especially if you’re going in the summer. I almost always use Booking.com to find my accommodation in the Dolomites.

Rifugi | Mountain Huts with a Difference

A rifugio is a mountain hut that’s family-owned and run, and they’re one of my favourite places to stay in the Dolomites.

They’re open during the summer hiking season, opening and closing at different times depending on their altitude and when the hikes they’re on are safe to travel. A lot of them also open during the winter, providing food and accommodation on the slopes.

The accommodation is basic, often bunk rooms and dormitories, but some have twin or double rooms available too.

The food is universally fantastic, and they offer amazing value for a wonderful experience that’s unique to this part of the world.

Some of them are also perched in the most incredibly photogenic places , so they’re worth a visit for that alone!

Wellness is a big deal in the Dolomites, and you should really schedule a night or two in one of the many beautiful spa hotels in the region.

Many of them have infinity pools with mountain views, saunas overlooking picturesque valleys, and spa services, including massages for tired legs.

If you’re looking for luxury, you also won’t be disappointed. There are some incredible luxury and boutique hotels scattered throughout the Dolomites.

Some are designed with romance in mind, while others are just a perfect place to treat yourself or hang out with friends.

B&B and Farm Stays

If you’re anything like me, you love immersing yourself in the local culture. There’s no better way than staying with locals.

In the Dolomites you’ve got traditional B&B options and farm stays (Roter Hahn), where you can get involved in helping out with the action or just sampling all the produce!

There are lots of wonderful chalets in the Dolomites, and Airbnb/VRBO have a huge presence here too. Again, it’s best to book well in advance if you’re planning on visiting during peak summer or winter seasons.

What to Eat & Drink in the Dolomites

It’s not an exaggeration to say that part of my love of visiting the Dolomites is because of the amazing foodie scene here.

Although it’s in Italy, the food here is heavily influenced by the Austro-Hungarian past, and you’ll find a definite Austrian flavour. That’s not to say you won’t get pasta and pizza because you can definitely find some of the best in Italy here!

South Tyrol boasts 21 Michelin-starred restaurants , and I really think that I need to put in more effort to eat at all of them! It’s actually the highest density of Michelin-starred chefs in Italy, which is no mean feat.

Some of my favourite dishes here are Knödel (Canederli in Italian) which are dumplings made of bread and cheese. For the meat eaters, they often contain Speck, a local cured ham. You’ll frequently see a dish called Knödel Tris, usually a trio of spinach, cheese and speck dumplings.

Once I got over my childish hysteria at a dish called Schlutzkrapfen , it became one of my favourite dishes. It’s essentially a cheese and spinach ravioli, although there are other flavours, and it’s wonderful after a day of hiking. Spinatspatspazlen is another great spinach pasta dish.

I’m also a huge fan of Keiserschmarren , a pancake-style dessert chopped into large slices and covered in sweet berry sauce and cream.

You’re not going to go hungry visiting the Dolomites!

Given that this is Italy and there are sloping hills, it should also come as no surprise that there are some phenomenal wineries in the area too.

The Dolomites is also home to my favourite spritz, the Hugo. Sweeter than the more famous Aperol, the Hugo is made with elderflower cordial, which is a big thing in the region.

What to pack for a visit to the Dolomites

There are 300 sunshine days a year in South Tyrol, so you need to bring your sunscreen , no matter when you visit!

In summer, don’t forget your hiking essentials and in winter, your best winter sports gear. If you’re wondering what to wear on your feet then you’ll want to read best shoes for the Dolomites (coming soon).

If you’re planning to tackle some via ferrati, either purchase your own gear or hire it while you’re visiting the Dolomites if you don’t think you’ll need it again.

For rifugi stays, it’s nice to have some slippers to put on so you don’t have to find a pair of common shoes that fit you.

The Dolomites, as a whole, are a place where people come to be active, so you’ll be fine with casual clothes most of the time. If you’re having a meal at one of the fine dining restaurants or staying at a boutique hotel, pack at least one fancy outfit.

Responsible Travel in the Dolomites

It’s good to know a few words of both German and Italian here since you’ll find a huge variability in the primary language spoken in the places you’ll visit.

I think it’s nice to be able to say at least hello, please and thank you in the native language of any country that you visit. I’m yet to learn Ladin, though, so if you’ve got some knowledge of that, I’m all ears!

Despite some of the images you might see online, prominent “no drone” signs exist in many popular areas. A lot of people visiting the Dolomites are doing so because of photos and videos that they’ve seen (myself included), but if it becomes clear that the banger shot you want is going to mean ignoring those local requests, please don’t do it.

Some of the Alpine lakes welcome swimmers, but others definitely don’t. No matter how tempting the turquoise water of Lake Sorapis may look, swimming in it will eventually destroy it. Even stepping in it causes damage, so be careful where you put your feet.

You may also turn up somewhere to find that Google has taken you on a “shortcut” to somewhere, but there’s private property between you and it. Rather than embark upon some fun trespassing, have a quick look at a map, where you’re bound to find the actual route to your destination!

In a truly mind-boggling discovery, it became clear to me on some of my hikes in the region that some people find that it’s ok to simply take a shit on the trail. And then throw some dirty loo roll around. Please take a hiking toilet kit and use it.

Also, feel free to educate others.

Is Visiting the Dolomites expensive?

There’s no getting around the fact that a trip to the Dolomites can get expensive. A lot of accommodation is at the luxury end of the spectrum, eating out adds up, and lift passes don’t come cheap.

Here are some tips to keep your budget in line:

Booking self-catered accommodation means that you can save a lot on meals out. I also find that eating a lot of rich food every day doesn’t really agree with me, and it’s nice to be able to have some more simple meals available.

Heading to some local stores and getting ingredients for a picnic will also save you money, while removing the temptation for yet another round of carb-loading at a mountain hut. Although, honestly, don’t miss out on those hut lunches either!

Pasta courses are often listed as a starter, but they’re usually large enough for a main and if you’re still hungry, there’s always gelato!

Make sure you explore the options for transport – there’s the Mobil Card in Val Gardena as well as multi-day lift passes throughout the region. If you’re driving, you can often save on parking by stopping further away and walking or hiking to your destination.

FAQs about Visiting the Dolomites

What is the best dolomites airport.

The closest airport for access to the Dolomites is Innsbruck in Austria. If you prefer to fly into Italy, then Venice or Verona are the best choices.

Should I hire a car in the Dolomites?

Will i have cellphone signal in the dolomites.

There are regions in the mountains of the Dolomites where you’ll lose cell service. If you’re hiking then I highly recommend taking a personal locator beacon or similar device. It could save your life. In the towns you’ll likely have full reception.

What’s the best time to visit the Dolomites?

I love the Dolomites in the autumn, but early July is also gorgeous as the snow melts and spring flowers start to dust the alpine meadows. The lakes will be at their fullest at this time, but it can be wet. August is peak season and requires you to book everything well in advance.

How many days do you need in the Dolomites?

I recommend at least a week in the Dolomites and 10 days to two weeks is best.

What’s the best way to see the Dolomites?

I think a combination of road trips and hiking is far and away the best way to get the perfect experience of visiting the Dolomites. Try to fit in at least one overnight hike during your visit and stay the night in a rifugio.

Planning A Trip To the Dolomites?

With world-class summer hiking, incredible winter skiing, and a perfect blend of Italian and Austrian culture, the Dolomites is one of my favourite European destinations .

Check out these essential guides, travel tips, and more to help you plan your trip:

PLANNING A TRIP TO THE DOLOMITES | Here’s what you need to read if you’re visiting the Dolomites for the first time , want to know the best things to do in the Dolomites (for foodies and adventurers!) or want to rent a car in Bolzano

DOLOMITES DAY HIKES | My favourite day hikes in the Dolomites and complete guides for hiking Lago di Sorapis , Croda da Lago , Seceda , Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Cadini di Misurina

DOLOMITES PLACES | My favourite places to visit in the Dolomites like Lago di Braies , Alpe di Siusi and Val di Funes

ITALY | Plan a perfect first trip to Italy with my Top Tips for Travelers to Italy and Italy Travel Guide

TRAVEL INSURANCE | Don’t go anywhere without it! I use and recommend Safety Wing .

THOUGHTFUL TRAVEL | No matter where you go, always be aware of the fact that travel impacts the place and people that live there. Being a thoughtful traveller is more critical than ever. Here are my top tips to make your trip a mindful one.

PHOTOGRAPHY | Love my photos and want to know how to take better shots on your own trips? Then my photography guide is for you. Here’s all the photography gear I use too. Want to buy one of my images? Head to the Print Store .

ESSENTIAL GEAR | You’ll find my travel essentials here, and a complete guide to all my hiking gear here .

FOLLOW & SHARE

If you found this guide useful, follow me on Instagram  to stay up to date with my travels.

MY ITALY PAGE

I’d also love it if you would follow me on  Pinterest  and share this guide on your social media.

8 Comments on “Visiting the Dolomites for the First Time | Ultimate Guide & Top Tips”

As someone who wants to visit the Dolomites, and knows nothing of them, this is a brilliant resource. Thank you!

Thanks so much John! I hope it helps you get to this stunning part of the world 🙂

This was super helpful!

I just had one question, there is a photo with two glasses of wine with the peaks in the background. What restaurant is this?

Hi Evie! Sorry about the delay in reply – that photo was taken at Geisler Alm, a restuarant on the Munkelweg trail in Val di Funes. It’s one of my favourite hikes and (I think) the best mountain restaurant in the Dolomites!

Just finished reading this

It’s beautiful, Cat!

Thank you so much, I truly enjoyed and now planning a trip.

Super grateful for this article and resources

You’re so welcome Janu! It’s a really stunning place and you’ll have an amazing trip there

Love this guide! We can’t wait to make a plan to really dig in on our trip. How would early September be in the Dolomites?

Hi Jennifer – that’s a beautiful time to go! I’ve been at that time and we had lovely settled weather. It might be a bit busy in some spots but I think this is one of the best times of year. I hope you have an amazing time.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

• More Networks

THE NEW YORK TIMES – Hut Skiing in the Dolomites: Storybook Scenery and Grappa Included

• Company News
• Experience Finder

What to do ?

When to go , type of travel.

Every mountain is unique, sure. But, the rhythm of most ski resorts is predictable. So, when I heard about a “ski safari” in the Italian Alps, that involved crisscrossing the scenic towns and valleys of places like Cortina, Civetta, Val Gardena and Arabba, then sleeping at a different alpine inn each night (sadly, no tiger tracking), I was intrigued.

On top of appealing to my daredevil nature, there was another selling point: I am a solid intermediate skier. In the United States, hut-to-hut skiing is a backcountry endeavor designed for experts. Not so in the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site in northeastern Italy. This territory of jagged limestone peaks, dipping plateaus and terrifyingly steep World Cup descents, I discovered, actually, boasted manageable terrain; 86 percent of the runs are blue (intermediate) and red (the easiest), ideal for nonelite athletes like me whose slope preferences are wide and easy groomers to couloirs, the narrow, hard-core gullies for advanced skiers. Read the full article here

Questo sito web utilizza i cookie

Sul sito ci sono cookies tecnici e di terze parti profilanti per i quali abbiamo bisogno di un tuo consenso all'installazione. Leggi al nostra Cookie policy

• Solo necessari
• Accetta selezionati
• Accetto Tutto
• Statistiche
• Profilazione
• Mostra dettagli

Climbing and Drinking Our Way Through the Dolomites

We named the Dolomite Mountains in northern Italy one of the best places to travel in 2019 . And while much has changed since, the appeal of the Dolomites has not waned, especially for outdoor pursuits all year long. Contributing editor Jane Larkworthy reports on the action.

DOLOMITES, Italy – The Dolomite Mountains have been on a roll. Long a favorite of skiers, this range in northeastern Italy became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009, and the Olympic Committee has named Cortina d'Ampezzo the home of the 2026 Winter Games. (Technically, they’re sharing the hosting with Milan. Is runway walking a sport?)

My family are mountain people — sort of. We live in New York City, but spend every weekend hiking in the Berkshires, and most vacations involve skiing either the Colorado or Canadian Rockies or Utah’s Little Cottonwood Canyon. The summer before the pandemic, we packed our passports, hiking boots, and expandable pants and headed to San Cassiano in the South Tyrol province in Italy to see if we could hike and eat speck at (nearly) the same time.

There are two ways to reach San Cassiano, where we spent our first night. Either head west just north of Lago di Santa Croce, or make that westward turn further north at Cortina d’Ampezzo. If being near a Moncler boutique is important, park yourself at Cortina. If, however, food and hopes of re-creating the opening number from Sound of Music are more your speed, drive the extra 40 minutes to explore Corvara, Colfosco, San Cassiano, La Villa, Badia, and La Val — the six villages that comprise the breathtaking area known as Alta Badia. Each delivers some serious Heidi-style mountain charm, and while these hamlets probably aren’t close enough to traverse by walking, each does seem practically around the bend from the one you just went through, so the drive among them is a quick one.

The Austrian influence is pretty ubiquitous, which makes sense since South Tyrol  was part of the neighboring country until World War I, when it was annexed by Italy. It’s also in the fashion (hats, lederhosen, dirndls ) and within the menus (Craving speck? Strudel? Sure!).

The street signs explain it all. Written in three languages — German, Italian, and Ladino (the neo-Latin native tongue) — it also pretty much sums up most of the people, too.

You will be charmed by the utter and total commitment to one architectural style, which we’ll call Chic Chalet. Nary a McMansion in sight, even the modest chalets are still chalets.

Lay of the Land

No matter how you get here, a series of hairpin switchbacks can’t be avoided, so prepare for some mild stress sweating behind the wheel. Look at it like this: It just makes the arrival all the more rewarding. Or let someone else do the driving and roll down your window to gape at the breathtaking, snow-capped peaks which compete with imposing jagged El Capitain impersonators at nearly every new curve.

If You Only Do One Thing

Devote a morning to hiking Fanes-Senes-Brais Natural Park . Hire a guide. We booked ours through Dolomite Mountains , who organize ski safaris, as well as summer and fall hiking, biking, and multi-sport trips. The guide led us uphill to Col de Locia, where the spring waters are actually drinkable … so long as the cows haven’t migrated there yet. (Ask your guide before filling your bottle. Cows usually pass through around late June/early July.) The reward for this heart-pumping, snow-crossing climb (it’s nothing a hiking boot can’t handle) is a quick plunge in the emerald-green and freezingly bracing Lago di Lagazuoi. From there, it’s just a short declining switchback to Rifugio Scotoni , where the mushroom polenta is a must.

If you’re here, you’ll want to be outside. The Dolomites are all about the outdoor activities: hiking and biking in the warmer months, skiing in colder times.

The novice but adventurous should test their climbing skills at Sass de Stria mountain. A new via ferrata (a protected climbing path) was recently built and can be reached just beyond the parking lot of the World War I museum, Forte Tre Sassi . The first part of the hike involves passing through tunnels that were built into the mountain during said war. After the tunnels deposit you to the other side of the mountain, it’s a quick traverse hike to the via ferrata. I’ll say it again: Hire a guide !! This route is not to be attempted without one, no matter how perfected your knot skills are or how nimble you believe your feet to be.

Should you not be ready to slip into a climber’s harness, there is no shame in reaching the mountaintop via chairlift, gondola, or cable car. More than a dozen resorts have theirs open year-round, and, given the vast popularity of bikers visiting the area, many are equipped to allow mountain bikes.

Speaking of mountain bikes, cycling of most kinds is pervasive here. Don your best Cinzano spandex and tour the winding roads, or rent a hybrid (E-bikes are available) and meander the trails that parallel miles of roads and streams.

History buffs will want to visit that aforementioned Forte Tre Sassi , whose displays of World War I ammunitions, uniforms, and other artifacts are fascinating, heartbreaking, and occasionally even smile-inducing. We were quite bemused by a restored list of services from what appeared to have been a local brothel.

Given that this is the country that gave us Prada and Bruno Cuccinelli, there is no shame in shopping here. Fortunately, there is no shortage of boutiques, especially in Corvara, whose long stretch of shops proved an enjoyable jaunt before dinner. Sport Kostner offers a vast array of gear for the hiker and biker, but I found a gorgeous felt tote I still regret not snagging, and they even sell traditional dirndls and leiderhosen. Or stay luxe and pick up a cashmere wrap at Duca di S. Giusto .

When the snow arrives, the activities shift from biking and climbing to skiing and snowboarding, while the hiking morphs into backcountry skiing and snowshoeing. Of course, there are the less, eh, vigorous offerings, like ice skating and sleigh rides, horse drawn or not. Should the cold be too much, you can always warm up with a Bombardino, Italy’s chicer (tastier) version of eggnog, at your hotel’s bar.

Where to Stay

Many hotels openly wear their ratings on their exteriors, with stars painted next to their names. (Italians love a star system.) I suppose that helps remove the guesswork and help plan a future trip. Also, Airbnb is alive and well here, should parsimony or wanting your own kitchen be a concern.

Ladin influence and charm is everywhere at Ciasa Salares in San Cassiano. Four in-house restaurants provide plenty of choices in this cozy lodge, so it’s no surprise it’s a favorite of cycling tour groups. That said, it’s the specialty-food rooms that will blow your mind (more on that below). The hotel recently underwent a lovely renovation, and any room is really win-win. Our newly designed room had a warm Skandi feel, but our kids’ classic room was retro-yodel-chic cozy, and they loved that their balcony overlooked the hotel’s vast herb garden.

Those who would rather stay in a village should check into Hotel La Perla in nearby Corvara. My post-hike muscles received an excellent massage at their spa, tucked away downstairs. Every meal included a proclamation from one of us that involved the words “this is the best…” — and we didn’t even experience the hotel’s Michelin-star gem, La Stua de Michil . What we marveled at most was the fact that, despite being in the center of town, we were steps from several mountain paths and a gondola lift.

The two other Fathom-recommended hotels in the area are Rosa Alpina  in San Cassiano, home of renown chef Norbert Niederkofler and an Aman Partner hotel, and Cristallo, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa , in Cortina d'Ampezzo.

Where to Eat

If Heidi’s grandfather owned a restaurant, it would be Maso Runch , perched above the village of Badia. Try to arrive a little early so you can walk around a bit, say hi to the cows in the barn across the road, and, given the magnificent views, procure several Instagram shots. Inside this charming 200+-year-old house, Runch’s specialty is its fried turnovers, a Ladin favorite, but be sure to save room for the rest of the tasting menu, most notably delectable spinach and ravioli ricotta and homemade ice cream.

In Ladino, Cocun means “bottle cork,” an apt name for Ciasa Salares wine cellar restaurant where guests dine among its 24,000 bottle stash, overseen by third-generation C.S. family member and somm Jan Clemons, whose passion is bio-dynamic wines. (Interesting wine note: Rosés are hard to find here, but sparkling rosés? Not a problem, thanks to the legendary Prosecco Road about an hour south.) If dining on fondue with three meats and eight sauces isn’t enough, venture over to Nida , the cheese room, or round the corner to Nodla , where 120 different forms of chocolate await. Clemons may even gently push a wall to reveal the Liquid Spirits room, backlit like a hi-tech Broadway set and filled with mind-blowing grappas, vermouths and other aperitivi.

This part of Italy has a high concentration of Michelin stars, and though we didn’t make it to Saint Hubertus , the three-star resto at Rosa Alpina, I sure wish we had.

Plan Your Trip

How to Get There Fly to either Venice or Innsbruck airports. Both take about two hours, give or take. Tip: If you’re renting a car at the Venice airport, try not to rent too large a car. Maneuverability through its tight ramps is tricky, and so is finding your way out.

Getting Around A rental car is a good idea for the freedom, but drivers are available to deliver you from one chalet-filled village to the next, which pop up every few miles.

When to Go If you want your mountain time warm, venture between June and early September. August can be super busy, so June and July are probably wisest. That said, Dolomite weather can be mercurial. Some autumns, hiking can go through all of October; some summers, they have snow in June. If you’re in it for the skiing, come December through March.

Money Matters Tipping is not expected but deeply appreciated. If you enjoyed your service, consider tipping 10-15 percent.

What to Pack Hiking boots and a lot of sunscreen.

Book Your Trip

Yes, you could do it yourself, but planning is so much easier when you work with an expert.  Dolomite Mountains  can arrange your whole trip — hotels, restaurants, excursions, and more. They also do custom and group trips focused on hiking, biking, running, or multi-sport adventures. Tell them Fathom sent you!

We make every effort to ensure the information in our articles is accurate at the time of publication. But the world moves fast, and even we double-check important details before hitting the road.

• Search Please fill out this field.
• Manage Your Subscription
• Give a Gift Subscription
• Newsletters
• Sweepstakes
• Destinations

The Best and Worst Times to Visit Italy

These are the best times to visit Italy for fewer crowds, travel deals, and more.

Rocky Casale is a freelance journalist with more than a decade of experience covering travel. His work has appeared in The New York Times , Vogue , The Wall Street Journal , Travel + Leisure , Condé Nast Traveler , Fodor's Travel , Afar , and more.

Elizabeth Rhodes is a special projects editor at Travel + Leisure , covering everything from luxury hotels to theme parks to must-pack travel products. Originally from South Carolina, Elizabeth moved to New York City from London, where she started her career as a travel blogger and writer.

When you think of an Italian vacation, what comes to mind? Perhaps you picture Rome's historic attractions or Tuscany's vineyards — or maybe you prefer the picture-perfect Amalfi Coast or the iconic Venetian canals. No matter what part of Italy you want to visit, though, you'll need to know the best time to do it. Weather, crowd size, cost, and other factors can all influence your decision, but here's a basic breakdown of the Italian tourist seasons.

• High Season: May to September
• Shoulder Seasons: March to April and October to November
• Low Season: December to February

Below, we'll walk through the best (and worst) times to visit Italy for every type of vacation so you can start planning your next Italian getaway.

Best Times to Visit Italy for Smaller Crowds

Not too long ago, the busy season in Italy was confined to June, July, and August. Travelers flocked to the country during their summer holidays to enjoy good weather and a hearty dose of culture, and for the rest of the year, traffic would slow. Today, though, Italy is such an in-demand destination that its "high season" stretches all the way from May to September — and it seems to be getting longer every year.

Because of this, winter is the best time to avoid crowds. Many visitors to Italy are seeking a warm, sunny Mediterranean vacation, and the country's winter climate — with temperatures in the 40s and 50s in the south and snowy conditions in the north — isn't conducive to those plans. Unless you're headed to an Alpine ski town like Cortina D'Ampezzo, a winter trip to Italy will likely mean uncrowded hotels and piazzas with plenty of elbow room.

Chelsea Exton/Travel + Leisure

Best Times to Visit Italy for Good Weather

"Good weather" in Italy is another concept that's evolved in recent years. Certainly, sun-seeking travelers will still find plenty to enjoy in Italy's warm, largely rain-free summers — but soaring temperatures can make July and August uncomfortable in some regions. Temperatures above 100 degrees are increasingly frequent in southern cities like Rome and Naples, so heat-sensitive travelers may want to avoid the peak of summer in these areas.

For sunny skies and balmy beaches without sky-high heat indices, the best times to visit Italy are the late spring and early fall. Months like May and September offer temperatures in the 70s and 80s through much of the country's south, making conditions ideal for sunbathing, swimming, and taking walking tours through historic towns and cities.

In northern Italy, conditions typically remain pleasant for the duration of the summer, particularly if you're near water or at a high elevation. A getaway to Venice or Lake Como, for instance, can see temperatures in the 60s and 70s even during June, July, and August.

Michela Sieman/Travel + Leisure

Best Times to Visit Italy by Region

Best times to visit the italian coast.

Spring, summer, and autumn are often heralded as the best times to visit Italy, particularly in temperate coastal towns where extreme weather isn't a concern. The problem with late spring and summer, though, is that everyone has the same idea (including Italians with second homes by the sea). Umbrella and beach chair rental prices are exorbitant, and the beaches can get crowded and noisy. Look instead to smaller villages near the sea, like Terlizzi in Puglia, where the water remains warm through late October and nearby beaches are quiet.

Best Times to Visit Italy's Wine Country

Early spring and early fall can be ideal times to visit Italy if you hope to explore wine regions like Tuscany. The grape harvest occurs each September and October (exact dates vary from year to year), so this can be a fun time for wine lovers.

Best Times to Visit the Dolomites

If you dream of seeing the stunning Dolomites in northeastern Italy, we have good news. The destination is worth visiting year-round, depending on your interests. Hit the ski slopes in winter, or spend spring and summer days hiking and taking in the mountain views.

Best Times to Visit Italy for Lower Prices

Prices in Italy tend to move in tandem with the seasons: when there are lots of visitors, prices are high, and when tourist numbers taper off, so do the costs of airfare and accommodations. If you hope to score a deal on flights or hotel rooms, aim for the off-season of October to April. This is especially true in popular cities like Rome and Florence. While these metro areas can be pricey and packed at any time, things do slow down in winter.

Of course, there are other ways to save money on your Italian vacation besides just aiming for the off-season. Keep an eye out for flight deals, or check out cruise packages that can help you avoid expensive hotels and flights. Finally, consider traveling off the beaten path to the small towns and quaint villages that most tourists skip — even during busy periods, these can make for affordable vacations.

Worst Times to Visit Italy

Italy is a beautiful destination year-round, but if you want to avoid packed tour buses, long museum lines, and extreme heat, you probably don't want to plan a summer getaway to Rome, Venice, or Florence. Carnival season — typically February and March — is another less than ideal time in Venice if you aren't a fan of crowds. Hotels are at a premium, and the city's bridges, boats, and attractions may lose their charm as they fill with thousands of mask-wearing revelers. For a calmer version of Venice, the northern lagoon in November is sublime.

Tuscany can also be a tricky region for solitude-seeking travelers, given its mass popularity. Cities like Siena and medieval hilltop towns like San Gimignano can be full of tourists in the summer and autumn, so try planning your trip for the winter or spring to see slightly smaller crowds.

No matter where you're going, be sure to take note of any major local holidays planned during the dates of your visit. For example, Christmas is a beautiful time to explore Italy thanks to charming holiday markets and festive decor, but some shops and attractions will be closed or have restricted hours around the holiday. Easter pilgrimages, meanwhile, are beloved among Catholic travelers wanting to see the Vatican — but their popularity also means that prices will be higher and crowds larger during Holy Week than during the rest of the spring.

Related Articles

Best Time To Visit The Dolomites: Weather & Things to Do!

Please note that some of the links may be affiliate links , and at no additional cost to you, I earn a small commission if you make a purchase. I recommend only products & companies I love and use, and the income goes back into making this little blog successful!

A big task, I will bravely attempt to break down what each of the 4 seasons brings to the table with regards to weather and things to do , ultimately outlining when the best time to visit the Dolomites really is, and why.

The thing is, these mountains have a lot to offer, and they are big. I’ve hiked the different portions of the Dolomites a few times in the summer and fall seasons, and so I want to share my lessons learned and my experiences.

Month to month, there are things to do that are particularly pretty in a certain season , lakes to swim in, local festivals to attend, Via Ferratas to challenge you, skiing, and the list goes on and on!

➡️ NOTE: Planning a trip to the Dolomites is a bit tough. I can plan a custom itinerary for you – suggest lodging and iconic hikes, and answer any questions. All you do is book it and enjoy it! ❤️

Beyond that, I find the Dolomites to be in an area of Italy where Germanic and Italian cultures come together in perfect union to create a very special and unique vibe. One that is represented in the local Tyrolian dialect, the traditional clothing of the region, how the locals live their lives in unison with the land, and the delicious food (not your usual Italian pasta or German sausage, but the best of both worlds ).

Ultimately, each season brings its own different experience , so here are a few data points to consider regarding weather and things to do in the Dolomites before deciding what’s best for you.

Best Time To Visit The Dolomites

Table of Contents

Visiting the Dolomites in the Summer

Is there anything better than spending summer in the mountains?! You’re basically living out your best Sound of Music life, frolicking on hilltops of wildflowers.

Summer is the most popular time to visit the Dolomites ( and my favorite ) because it is warm, bright, sunny , and full of possible adventures. It’s a great time to go hiking, paragliding, mountain biking, climbing, waterfall exploring, hut-to-hut adventuring, and road-tripping.

Summer in the Dolomites will also be the most expensive because it’s the middle of peak tourist season. This is especially true in the month of August when most of Europe takes a vacation in alignment with “school’s out!” for the kids.

🏠 Where to Stay

Val Gardena  was where I’ve lodged a few times, and is ideal for Ortisei town, Alpe di Suisi, Seceda peaks, Sella Massif, Gran Cir, and Passo Gardena. It’s a cute area and my first choice of lodging in the Dolomites. Peak season lodging prices will be around $300 per night, and be careful that some hotels only offer stays 2 days or longer.

📍 Mid-Level: Hotel Hell – Don’t let the name fool you. I’ve stayed here, and it’s really nice, plus good bang for your buck. The beds are comfy, and it’s a newly remodeled little authentic B&B. 📍 Luxury: Hotel Montchalet – While it’s not the most expensive, I like this chalet A LOT, mostly because it’s a cozy luxury. If you can splurge for the suite with the spa to soak in after the hikes, that would make this worth it a thousand times over.

Visiting the Dolomites in the Fall

The second most popular season to visit the Dolomites is the fall season, mid-September through October. This is when the leaves change and the forests become the exact color of those favorite Instagram posts you troll.

Jokes aside, the fall season in the Dolomites is spectacular in its own right. Early fall, around September and early October, is the best time for outdoor photographers to come out and shoot. It’s also a great time for those seeking the adventure of Via Ferratas.

Towards the end of fall, it gets a bit colder and the mountain huts around the Dolomites close. Snow begins to set in as the mountains prepare themselves for ski season.

Three Peaks  is ideal for seeing Lago di Braies, Lago di Dobbiaco, and Tre Cime di Lavaredo, which is one of my favorite hiking areas. The best town to stay in is Cortina d’Ampezzo in this area because it’s close to everything, and you get all the cute restaurants and bars for apres-mountain trekking adventures.

📍 Mid-Level : Chalet Falorie – Great if you’re traveling with a family because it’s right in town, has a great kitchen, and bunk beds for the kids – plus fantastic light. I think this is the best value for how beautiful the apartment is. For me, chalets always stand a level above! 📍 Luxury: Hotel de LEN – I always go for cozy luxury in the mountains, and this takes the cake. The breakfast and restaurant on the property are especially fantastic, and the amenities are what sold me here – the spa!!

Visiting the Dolomites in the Winter

Coming in 3rd in the contest of “Best Times to Visit the Dolomites”, winter will not be outdone by the other season. Prepare yourself for a winter wonderland, sunny days, and white snow-capped mountains and forests.

Winter is perfect for skiing, snowshoeing, low-altitude hiking, and any other snow sports you can think of. It’s also great for hanging out in the cute little mountain towns, sampling everything from the local goodies to the local wines!

Winter is also cold, and the mountain huts are all closed. It’s not ideal to travel here using public transportation and so this is the season when you need to rent a car to move around.

Again, I recommend Cortina d’Ampezzo  in the winter. It is ideal for Cortina town, Lago di Sorapis, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Lago di Misurina, Cinque Torri, Croda da Lago.

I mean, can you imagine spending the Christmas holidays here?! ⤵️

Visiting the Dolomites in the Spring

Spring is the low season in the Dolomites. It boasts the fewest number of visitors and with that, the lowest prices all year. Mountain huts are still closed, snow is still on the ground, and it’s cold.

Spring in the Dolomites is good for lower-elevation hiking and cultural or town-focused activities. It’s also a great time to escape your hometown after the drudge of the first couple of months of the year and just get a quiet, natural change of pace at an affordable price.

Bolzano  is obviously great for Bolzano town, Strada del Vino, and Merano. It’s also pretty close to Val Gardena and Val di Funes. I think it’s a bit far from a few of the more iconic hikes near Cortin (like my favorite Tre Cime and Cadini di Misurina hikes), but if you have a car that won’t be a problem. The town itself is also pretty cute and the capital of the region.

📍 Mid-Level: Goldenstern Townhouse – If you like a mid-century modern feel like me, this is an old townhouse renovated in such a chic way. The beds are comfy, and the townhouse is right in the middle of town! 📍 Luxury: Parkhotel Mondeschein – The hotel is fantastic, with great decor, amenities, ambiance, and all the things. What makes this lodging stand out is the vibe at the bar, restaurant and shared spaces – it’s a VIBE! This is where I would be staying with my partner or my girlfriends.

Things to Do in the Dolomites Per Season

When it comes to things to do in the Dolomites, each month comes with its own benefits and challenges regarding activities, and a lot has to do with weather, access, and vibe. My favorite times to explore the Dolomites, in this order, are first during the Summer, then Fall, then Winter, and lastly – if someone really convinces me – the Spring.

Things To Do in the Dolomites Summer & Fall

✅ Adolf Munkel Hike   ✅ Cadini di Misurina Ridge Hike   ✅ Tre Cime de Lavaredo Hike ✅ Seceda Ridgeline Hike   ✅ Via Ferrata Tridentina ✅ Lake Hikes [ Braies, Carezza ] ✅ Dolomites Road Trip ✅ Paraglide in the Dolomites ✅ Hut-to-Hut Hiking ✅ Stay in a Rifugio

Things To Do in the Dolomites Winter & Spring

✅ Eat your Heart Out [ especially Kaiserschmarrn ] ✅ Drink the Local Wine ✅ Stay in Val Gardena ✅ Explore the towns [ Bolzano, Cortina d’Ampezzo, Ortisei ] ✅ Skiing / Snowboarding ✅ Snowshoeing

Best Time To Hike in The Dolomites

I think the summer and early fall are the best time for hiking in the Dolomites because you have wonderful weather, flowers blooming, all sorts of summer sports like paragliding and swimming available to you, and the mountains just look STUNNING! Not only that, this is when the rifugios, huts, cable cars, and restaurants are all open!

PRO TIP: Hiking is NOT all difficult in the Dolomites. There are plenty of trails that are rated easy and medium on the challenge scale, and everything is very well marked. In fact, some of the most iconic views from the Dolomites can be accessed by an easy hike!

When do the Mountain Huts/Rifugios open and close?

Most of the Mountain Huts ( Rifugios ) in the Dolomites are the property of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI), and are manned by The Club, offering food, lodging, and showers to hikers at about $50-80 a night. Most CAI huts open mid to late June and close on September 20th .

The huts at higher altitudes may have even more limited opening times. Remember, there are operating costs for these little huts, and so if there’s not enough demand, they can’t afford open too early in the summer.

How do you book Mountain Huts/Rifugios in the Dolomites?

To book a room at a hut, you literally have to look them up on Google, find the specific hut website you want, look for their email or phone number, and old-school email/call them. You will give them your name, and the date you are wanting lodging and that’s it. The next step is to show up at the time you requested and enjoy the views.

For my hut-to-hut hike, I used the company Alpine Exploratory – they took care of the booking, route, and baggage transportation, which was a big help. I also found that Facebook groups around a particular hike are super helpful – I did the Alta Via hike, and this is the group I used to get info.

If you’re doing it yourself, don’t expect fancy online reservations. But DO expect that your reservation will be honored. It’s raw out here, ie. in the world above the interwebs!

Do I need travel insurance when visiting the Dolomites?

Yes, anytime you travel outside of your country, you need to cover your bum. It’s quite cheap and offers protection in case of emergencies – because shit happens. Plus, you can call 24/7 and talk to fellow travelers like yourself to get info and help as you need it.

This is what I use: ➡️ Safety Wing Insurance ⬅️

Note:  You can buy it while you’re traveling as well, like that one time I decided to go up a Via Ferrata in the Dolomites and it was only my second time – AND my anxiety was through the roof! Yea, it’s a no-brainer on the travel insurance – get you some.

How To Get to The Dolomites

There are a few ways to get to and around the Dolomites .

How To Get To The Dolomites

Renting a car.

Renting a car is the way to go so that you have the flexibility  to do whatever the heck you want in the Dolomites at your own pace. I usually use Discover Cars to review all the rental car company rates and pick what works for me – ie. a small, automatic, diesel, fewer fees, etc.

Check Prices for Rental Cars to the Dolomites ➡️  DISCOVER CARS   ⬅️

I recommend flying into the Venice Airport and renting a car there  for a few reasons:

• It’s a bigger international airport compared to Bologna & Verona, so  more connecting flights  from the bigger airport hubs around Europe.
• It’s the  closest driving time to the Dolomites  compared to other Italian cities like Milan.

PRO TIP:  Before you hit the road, make sure you review the  common mistakes when renting a car in Italy , where I go into a few unique road rules, documentation requirements, and experience driving through the land of La Dolce Vita.

Public Transportation

SudTirol Mobility  is the best resource to navigate and book tickets to trains and buses around the Dolomites. You can buy a 1, 3, and 5-day pass at tourist info spots or any hotel. There are also little ticket stations. This is the cheapest way to get around the Dolomites if you are not renting a car.

Dolomites Travel Tips

Here are a few travel tips when it comes to the Dolomites, because planning a mountain trip can be a bit tedious.

➡️ Help Me Plan My Trip! ⬅️

How many days is enough for the Dolomites?

I recommend at least 5 days to really appreciate a taste of the Dolomites. If you think about it, it’s half a day to a day’s worth of work just to travel to the Dolomites , and each day only allows time for 1 big hike. Two hikes if they’re close to each other or short enough. To really start exploring the mountains, especially for the first time, you’ll need at least 5 days.

What is a good Dolomites itinerary for first-timers?

Building a good Dolomites itinerary first starts with inspiration. Here are some of my favorite hikes that can be done in 1 week in the Dolomites. This is taken right out of my 2-week hiking trip through the Italian and Swiss Alps!

My Favorite Hikes in The Dolomites

✔️ Adolf Munkel Hike to Geisler Alm   (easy) ✔️ Cadini di Misurina Ridge Hike   (easy) ✔️ Tre Cime de Lavaredo (easy) ✔️ Seceda Ridgeline Hike   (easy) ✔️ Via Ferrata Tridentina (challenging)

Are the Dolomites expensive?

Not really, because it’s a nature hub – and nature stuff is free! That said, lodging & transportation costs will fluctuate with the time of year you go, summer being the most expensive. Here is a rough outline based on some of my road trips to the area during the peak summer season.

• Car Rental : €50-100 per day
• Lodging : €150-300 per night
• Funiculars/Gondolas:  €30-50 per gondola, per person
• Food   & Drink : €60 a day per person
• Nature in Your Life :  Priceless!

Conclusion: Best Time to Visit the Dolomites

So, after reading all these goodies, what is the best time to visit the Dolomites? It’s July 23. 😊

Jokes aside, the best time to visit the Dolomites depends a lot on the weather. Because the Summer and Fall seasons between July and September have the sunniest and warmest days, these months are ideal for all of the activities and awe-inspiring views of the Dolomites. Note that August will be the most touristed month, as well as the most expensive in that ideal time.

Ultimately, each season brings its own pros and cons, the gist being:

Mariana Barbuceanu is the owner and author of the Road Trip EuroGuide, a blog that inspires fellow travelers to explore Europe more authentically through slower travel and digging deeper into the culture of a place. When she isn't writing about her adventures, she is planning trips for her community and coaching people on how to take that next step towards a much-needed sabbatical.

Join our Adventure: Get all my insider tips for traveling on a budget

The Ultimate Guide To Planning Travel To The Dolomites in Northern Italy

When most people think of traveling to Italy, they immediately think of cities like Rome, Pompeii, and Venice. However, while these cities are beautiful and amazing experiences, many focus on them alone and miss out on the incredible beauty of Northern Italy. In doing this, they miss some of the most beautiful and unique mountains that I have ever seen: The Dolomites. Most people don’t even realize that there are amazing opportunities for hiking in Northern Italy, but the Italian Alps are a true sight to behold and definitely a “can’t miss” kind of experience. This guide will help you plan every step of your travel to the Dolomites region of Northern Italy.

***This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through my links, I will receive a small commission. When you support me and purchase through my links it allows me to follow my dreams, so I thank you for all of your support!!!***

What Are The Dolomites?

The Dolomites is a mountainous region in Northern Italy that is actually a section of the Italian Alps. Located in South Tyrol, this incredible mountain range used to be known as the “Pale Mountains.” The region itself is famous for its incredible hiking, history, skiing, and jagged mountains. When you see photos of mountains in Italy that are dark or spiky, it is likely a photo from the Dolomites region. When traveling to the Dolomites it is important to note that there are heavy German and Italian influences in the region. The region itself is full of history and beauty that is worth experiencing.

Best Time to Travel To The Dolomites Dolomites Region

The Dolomites region has something to offer everyone year-round. In the summer, hiking is a huge draw as there are hundreds of different hikes to experience in the area. In the winter, the area is filled with both alpine and cross country skiers as the area has multiple ski resorts that draw in people who enjoy winter sports. Both the summer and the winter can be busy times in the Dolomites region, but it is never overwhelmingly busy if you plan correctly.

Personally, I went in the shoulder season in November. It wasn’t quite winter yet so the winter crowds weren’t there. It was snowing, but we were still able to do some hiking as there wasn’t a base layer of snow on the ground in some areas yet. By going in the off-season, we saved a ton of money on hotels and ticket prices were CHEAP ($390 roundtrip and direct from Orlando!).

How To Get To The Dolomites From Venice

In general, in Italy, train travel is the way to go! Trains are efficient and easy, and there are multiple cities that you can travel to by train. If you are wondering how to get to the Dolomites from Venice by train, the easiest way is to go to the main train depot in Venice, Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia. From there, you can catch a train to the Calalzo – Pieve Cadore – Cortina station. It is possible that there are changes in trains along the way, but you can buy a ticket to take you there. It takes anywhere from 2.5 to 4 hours to get to the area from Italy. Once there you will need to hire or car or driver which can be arranged by your hotel.

Other options for getting to the Dolomites from Venice are to rent a car or join a guided tour. When we went, we rented a car because we knew that we wanted to really drive around and explore the area. We drove from Milan to the Dolomites and then from the Dolomites to Venice. Just keep in mind that no cars are allowed on the island of Venice so you will have to rent one from off the island. If you choose to drive, it takes about 2.5 hours to get to the Dolomites from Venice.

If you are looking to join a tour, they will take care of all of the transportation for you. This is the ideal option if you just want to do a day trip to see the beautiful mountains and lakes.

How To Get To The Dolomites From Milan

If you are wondering how to get to the Dolomites from Milan, the best answer is to rent a car. They are located at the northern tip of Italy and connect with the rest of the European Alps. It is about a 2.5-hour drive from Milan to get to the Southern Tyrol region in general. However, it is more like a 5-hour drive to get to the main area of the Dolomites. When traveling to the Dolomites from Milan, you go through an incredibly mountainous area which makes it difficult for there to be a direct train route or road. While the distance straight to the Dolomites isn’t long, you have to wrap around mountains to get there. The bonus of driving to the Dolomites from Milan is that you pass a bunch of incredible little castles on the side of the road and the views are absolutely incredible. It is a wonderful drive to do.

If you decide to take the train from Milan, the best way to get to the region is to go to the Milano Centrale Railway Station in central Milan. You will want to catch the train heading towards Munchen (Munich) and stop at the Franzensfeste stop in the Dolomites region. From there you can hire a driver in the region. You will want to make sure to book your ticket in advance so that you can plan for the trip.

Camping in the Dolomites

The Dolomites is an incredible area for camping and hiking. If you are planning on camping in the Dolomites , there are a lot of options for locations and types of campsites. It is important to note that you can only camp in established campsites in the region unless you are completing a multi-day trek. Even with the multi-day treks, there are specific areas where you can camp during your hike.

Places To Stay in the Dolomites

The ideal area to stay in when traveling to the Dolomites is in the South Tyrol area. There are multiple beautiful lakes there that make it the ideal location. A lot of people like to stay in Val Gardena, Santa Cristinam, and Alta Badia although anywhere that you stay in the Dolomites will offer you incredible views and experiences.

Low-Cost Hotel: GH Hotel Piaz

Mid-Range Hotel: Boutique Hotel Villa Blu Cortina

Luxury Hotel: HOTEL de LEN

Things To Do When You Travel to the Dolomites

There are multiple options for hiking in the Dolomites from short day hikes to long multi-day treks. The Dolomites has hikes to offer everyone during the summer season and more technical hiking and mountaineering during the shoulder and winter seasons. Most of the most famous hikes in the area surround the incredibly beautiful lakes in the Dolomites . Between the lakes and the mountains, the views are to die for.

One hike that we did in the Dolomites took us about 3.5 hours, and we didn’t even make it to the top. It was supposed to take us “3” round trip, but we never believe the times that websites tell us. Especially in the snow and ice, hiking can take much longer. Plus, my camera obsession means multiple stops looking for the perfect shot along the way. We also took time to fly our drone into this really awesome ice cave on the top of a mountain during the hike.

It got intensely foggy as we got closer to the top and it was also starting to snow pretty hard. Being on a tight schedule, we decided to turn around. On the way back, we noticed some things that we missed on the way up. There were actually World War buildings and caves built into the mountain. There were leftover turrets and broken-down walls. We were hiking in history and didn’t even realize it when we planned the trip. Pretty cool to be honest.

If you love hiking as I do, make sure you check out these quotes about hiking to find some inspiration!

If you are interested in learning more about the hiking options in the Dolomites, check out these two awesome books: Walking in the Dolomites: 25 Multi-day Routes in Italy’s Dolomites  and Shorter Walks in the Dolomites for some inspiration and awesome tips!

The Dolomites provide multiple different hikes for different skill levels. While my husband and I love hiking, we are in no way mountaineers, and I have too many injuries to be a crazy hiker. That limits our ability to do some hikes that we would like to do. I mean, heck, I’d climb Everest if I had the ability to train and complete something like that, but alas, an adventure of that amount of intense physical grandeur and ability will never be in the cards for me.

Participate in Alpine Sports

The Dolomites region has some incredible skiing and snowboarding opportunities for people of all skill levels. Being a part of the Alps mountain range means that the “alpine” experience is incredible. If you are looking for an awesome winter adventure that includes some time on the slopes, then the Dolomites have a lot to offer you! The plus side of the “Off-season” is that the ski slopes in the Italian Alps are beginning to open but aren’t busy yet! If you are a fan of skiing, snowboarding, or other alpine sports, then it’s worth checking the ski season dates for the year before your trip! Likewise, the French Alps also have incredible skiing opportunities! Check out the French Alps Ski Season Dates here.

Experience the History of the Dolomites Region

While there, my husband and I actually hiked to a World War Cemetery. It was an interesting experience because more than 2000 soldiers’ ashes were put into a giant urn in the middle of the room. It was very solemn inside. The other crazy thing was that we were standing there as Americans looking at the graves of mostly German and Italian soldiers. Our country caused those deaths, and, even though they were always the enemy.

It gave me a whole new perspective on war. Those were people. Thousands of dead men and women were buried in that one room. Enemy or not, evil or not, those were people just like you and me. They had families and friends. Many likely did not even want to fight, they could have felt that there was no other option in life or they were drafted and forced to fight.

More information about the battles in the Dolomites can be found here.

No matter how big the world seems, the people are the same on both sides of it. I think that’s one of the most important things that travel has taught me.

Travel To The Dolomites During the Off-Season

The downside of planning travel to the Dolomites during the off-season was that the farther north we went, the more things we found were closed. Italy is known for its incredible food, but Eric and I found that we were often left hungry. Every time we got hungry, it wasn’t in sync with the times that things were open. Northern Italy seems to take this huge siesta from 1pm-7pm. We couldn’t find anything but bars (with closed kitchens) open! While this makes sense from an economic perspective, our stomachs didn’t care.

If you do decide to travel North in the off-season, bring snacks to get you by. Another thing that was closed was the cable car that we were planning to take to the top of the mountain for the start of a hike. We really didn’t plan on that being closed (terrible website really). Actually, the whole town in the middle of the Dolomites was like a ghost town in November, but it comes alive with the snow in December. However, we found hikes and did our own thing and were fine. Overall, hiking in Northern Italy was one of the highlights of our trip!

The Language in Northern Italy

One more thing that was unique about planning your travel to the Dolomites region is that Italian is not the only language that you need to know. Even though we were still in Italy, the farther north we went, the more Germany was spoken. Many of the towns had street signs that were written first in German with the Italian translation under it. Although many people in this area are trilingual (Speaking English, Italian, and German), knowing a little bit of each language can be helpful for getting around. You can still get by with English, but it’s good to know the common German phrases for “Thank you” (Danke), “You’re welcome” (Bitte), “Water” (Wasser, pronounced “Vasser”), “Please” (Also bitte), etc.

Let me know if you decide to travel to the Dolomites! I would love to hear about your adventure!

Pin “The Ultimate Guide To Planning Travel To The Dolomites Region in Northern Italy” For Later

Read More Articles Like “The Ultimate Guide To Planning Travel To The Dolomites Region in Northern Italy”

• The Best Places For Camping in the Dolomites
• The Most Incredible Lakes in the Dolomites That You Must Visit
• How to Spend 24 Hours in Venice: The Ultimate Guide
• The Time I Slid 500ft Down the Side of a Mountain and Survived

I never seem to think of Italy as mountains with snow! Great insight into a different part of Italy 🙂

Thank you! They are actually a part of the Alps, just the Italian Alps rather than the French Alps. 🙂

I’ll keep this in mind when I go to Grenoble!

Yay! I hope you have a great time!

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

You’ve probably never been to Madonna di Campiglio in the Italian Dolomites. Here’s why you should go

May 23, 2024 • 6 min read

Head to the Madonna di Campiglio in summer for walks in the Brenta Dolomites © Olezzo / Shutterstock

The magic of Italy is in the almost accidental way that experiences find you, especially if you pay a little bit of attention and are willing to draw outside of the lines. You might wander down an alley on a whim, order a dish you’ve never heard of based on a knowing wink from a waiter, or witness a slice of daily life that seems like a perfectly choreographed scene from a film.

Heading to Madonna di Campiglio, a real-life fairy tale village perched at 1522m (4933 ft) in the Brenta Dolomites in Italy’s Trentino region, is one of those magical experiences. 

If you ski, snowboard, ice climb, or snowshoe you may have heard of this historic resort – but there are plenty of good reasons to put this destination on your radar, year round. 

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the region is one of the best places to experience the unique culture of Trentino. And if you just want to lay back and be pampered, Campiglio boasts an absurd concentration of world-class restaurants, spas and wellness centers. 

Pack your warm socks and get to Madonna di Campiglio.

Hit the slopes

The ski season officially kicks off in mid-November and Campiglio’s 156 kms (97 miles) of pistes buzz with activity throughout the winter. 

Trails begin in the town itself and are connected by chair lifts. The design means you can ski from place to place (and from meal to meal) to your heart’s content. You can even ski down to Pinzolo where there’s a brand-new lodge and the recently opened Attic restaurant – a very welcome addition to the area’s offerings. The area is also very generously dotted with mountain lodges.

Madonna di Campiglio is also an ideal spot for cross-country skiing, with 22 kms of runs adapted to all skill levels. If you haven’t cross-country skied before but want to try, be forewarned: it’s a serious workout but well rewarded. For the most atmospheric adventure: sign-up for cross-country skiing at night, a guided run that finishes at a mountain lodge where food and cocktails await. There’s nothing like your first Italian après ski experience.

Commune with nature (and dogs!)

Recapture the feeling of waking up to a snow day (or maybe discover it for the first time) with the Dolomiti Natural Wellness walk through a silent, forested winter idyll. Immersed in the landscape, you’ll be guided through meditation, breathing, and lessons in the region’s natural environment. There’s also an option to take a “snow bath” (you should seriously consider it). 

If you’re looking to spend time with some very good boys and girls, how about teaming up with your own pack of dogs for a dog-sledding adventure? You’ll learn all about the history of dog-sledding in Madonna di Campiglio and gain a whole new appreciation for the importance of this ancient practice. That is, if you can pull yourself away from petting the dogs for long enough to listen. 

You can also enjoy some regular sledding on a dedicated slope . 

Snowshoe and snow trek with a certified alpine guide

If you’re not quite ready to test yourself on the slopes (same), but still want to get out into the snow, don’t worry: snowshoeing and snow trekking are particularly popular in Madonna di Campiglio. 

The best way to get your bearings is with a certified alpine guide , bookable either directly in the town center or online. These guides are seriously intrepid, incredibly knowledgeable, and a blast to spend the day with. 

Walking up the side of a snowy mountain in snowshoes is already fun, but mountain guides are an amazing resource so it is worth budgeting for one. As well as pointing out local wildlife and topography, your guide will recount the history of the region, offer local tips on everything from where to après ski to when to come for festivals – and who makes the best coffee in town. 

Most importantly, they’ll make sure you have a safe experience; this is still rough terrain so it helps to have a helping hand. Plus, if you want to try your hand (and your nerves) at ice climbing, a guide will help you safely plan.

Savor the northern Italian cuisine

Campiglio is a very small and very walkable place, so the fact that it’s got three Michelin-starred restaurants should tell you something about the standard of the local cuisine; you’d be unlucky to have a bad meal even if you were trying. 

Most mountain huts are also good restaurants, offering hearty meals to hungry skiers; give one a try. If you can, seek out Ill Gallo Cedrone ’s bone marrow risotto (I think about this dish a few times a week since tasting it – I suspect I always will). 

You’ll also want to thoroughly investigate the polenta offerings around town: this cornmeal dish is a staple of Northern Italian cuisine and everyone puts their own twist on it. Whatever you tuck into after a long day in the great outdoors, make sure to start your meal with a glass of local prosecco, a sparkling wine that just tastes a little better whilst looking out over an alpine landscape. 

Don’t miss this historic sight

Like anywhere in Italy, Madonna di Campiglio is also full of history. Don’t miss the Church of Santa Maria Antica, a neo-Gothic building that houses some of the area's most important artifacts. There are triptychs, sculptures, and documents that tell the story of the area but the main attraction is the 12th century crucifix that has survived the centuries in pretty miraculous condition.

What to do in spring and summer

Local Italian tourists flock to the region in the spring and summer when the high altitude keeps things nice but cool. If you’ve got kids who don’t ski – or are too young to try – this is probably the best time to go, as many warm-weather activities are suitable for children. 

Lifts continue to operate in the summertime meaning you can explore everything the region has to offer on foot. There’s the usual hiking and trekking, a multitude of rock climbing routes, canyoning and rafting, or you can go on a hair-raising via ferrata – the Brenta Dolomites has one of the most extensive and complete networks of routes in the Alps. Most activities are bookable at the mountain guide office .

If you happen to be in Campiglio in late August or September, ask around about the Giovenche Rendena , when the malgari (cowherds) are adorned with flowers and paraded down from their mountain pastures to shelter for the winter down below. Each year, the best heifer is crowned Queen of Pinzolo. It’s a lot of fun.

How to get to Madonna di Campiglio

By air, your best bet is to fly into Milan or Venice . From there, it’s about a 3½ hour ride by car or bus. If you want to take the train, get off at Trento – from there, it’s a 1½ drive, or roughly a two-hour bus ride to the slopes.

Dan visited Madonna di Campiglio on the invitation of Madonna di Campiglio Azienda per il Turismo S.p.A. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in return for positive coverage.

Explore related stories

May 24, 2024 • 9 min read

Europe's coastlines and astounding beaches may get all the attention as summer comes, but the continent's lakes should not be overlooked.

May 17, 2024 • 14 min read

Apr 19, 2024 • 7 min read

Apr 19, 2024 • 10 min read

Apr 8, 2024 • 13 min read

Mar 20, 2024 • 9 min read

Mar 16, 2024 • 6 min read

Mar 14, 2024 • 16 min read

Mar 8, 2024 • 6 min read

Mar 6, 2024 • 8 min read

• Share full article

Advertisement

Supported by

Why N.Y.C. Hotel Rooms Are So Expensive Right Now

The average hotel room rate in the city is $301 a night, a record. A major reason: One of every five hotels is now a shelter, contributing to a shortage of tourist lodging.

By Luis Ferré-Sadurní

In late 2022, as thousands of migrants began to arrive in New York City, city officials scrambled to find places to house them. They quickly found takers: hotels that were still struggling to recover from the pandemic-driven downturn in tourism.

Dozens of hotels, from once-grand facilities to more modest establishments, closed to tourists and began exclusively sheltering migrants, striking multimillion-dollar deals with the city. The humanitarian crisis became the hotel industry’s unexpected lifeline in New York; the hotels became a safe haven for tens of thousands of asylum seekers.

Two years in, as the city’s peak tourism season is about to begin, the migrant crisis has helped dramatically shift the hotel landscape in New York. The conversion of hotels to shelters has sharply decreased the supply of rooms just as tourist demand has risen, nearly to prepandemic levels, and is projected to match a record high.

The migrant shelters — along with other factors that include inflation, the loss of Airbnb short-term rentals and an expected decline in new hotel construction — have propelled the nightly cost of an average room to record levels.

The average daily rate for a hotel stay in New York City increased to $301.61 in 2023, up 8.5 percent from $277.92 in 2022, according to CoStar, a leading provider of commercial real estate data and analysis. During the first three months of 2024, when prices traditionally dip, the average stay was still 6.7 percent higher than during the same time period last year: $230.79 a night, up from $216.38 in 2023.

About 135 of the city’s roughly 680 hotels entered the shelter program, with many congregated in Midtown Manhattan, Long Island City in Queens and near Kennedy International Airport — all traditional magnets for tourists. Participating hotels are paid up to $185 a night per room, according to the city. Not a single one has converted back into a traditional hotel.

The Midtown hotels include the Row NYC Hotel, a four-star hotel in the middle of the theater district, and the century-old Roosevelt Hotel near Grand Central.

The use of city hotels for migrants represents a loss of 16,532 hotel rooms , leaving 121,677 hotel rooms for travelers, according to data compiled by CoStar, a leading provider of commercial real estate data and analysis.

That’s 2,812 fewer hotel rooms than existed in the period just before the pandemic — a shortage that is being acutely felt.

“During peak periods, try getting a hotel on a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday night in midtown Manhattan, and, if you can, you could end up paying dearly,” said Daniel H. Lesser, a co-founder of LW Hospitality Advisors. “It’s all supply-and-demand related, and the migrant rooms have reduced the amount of supply.”

Hotels that have been converted into shelters

Island City

Source: CoStar

About 65,000 migrants are being sheltered in hotels, tent dormitories and other shelters, in large part because of the city’s legal obligation to provide a bed to anyone who needs one. The city projects it will spend $10 billion over three fiscal years on the migrant crisis.

Beginning in late 2022, the city entered into a contract of up to $980 million with a hotel trade group to pay hotels that decide to shelter migrants under its “Sanctuary Hotel Program.” City officials said the hotels receive between $139 and $185 a night per room, whether or not the room is occupied, guaranteeing them a fixed stream of income. (Those rates do not include money the city is spending on food and other services for migrants; there have also been reports of hotels being paid more than $185 a night.)

Many of the hotels-turned-shelters, some of which were deep in debt, facing foreclosure or had received poor reviews from guests , catered to budget and middle-class travelers. While many were independent hotels, about half of them carried brand names: Courtyard, Holiday Inn Express, SpringHill Suites, Super 8.

Since migrants are mostly taking up the city’s more affordable hotel rooms, mid-market tourists are most likely to see the steepest increase in prices, according to Sean Hennessey, a hotel industry adviser and clinical associate professor at New York University.

“I really believe it’s enabled two-, two-and-a-half-star hotels to be a little more emboldened, to take advantage of the situation and charge prices that perhaps they wouldn’t otherwise be able to,” he said.

Other factors, including some driven by policies that Mayor Eric Adams and his predecessor, Bill de Blasio, supported, have also contributed to higher room rates.

In September, city officials began to enforce a new law meant to curb the proliferation of short-term rentals, such as those listed on Airbnb, which used to account for over 10 percent of all tourist accommodations in the city. The crackdown obliterated most short-term Airbnb listings — a phenomenon that some observers said might have had an even larger impact on hotel rates than the migrant crisis.

The number of Airbnb listings in New York City for short stays — under 30 days — plummeted by 83 percent to just 3,705 apartments in March 2024, down from 22,247 listings in August 2023, the month before the law went into effect, according to AirDNA, an unaffiliated company that collects data from short-term rental listings. Most of the remaining Airbnb listings in the city, about 90 percent, are only available for stays of over 30 days.

The law, Local Law 18, was aggressively backed by the hotel industry and the hotel workers union , both supporters of Mayor Adams. Not surprisingly, analysts say, the demise of short-term rentals has driven up demand for hotel rooms and has emboldened some hoteliers to increase prices.

“It was expected,” said Jamie Lane, the chief economist at AirDNA. “That is why the hotel lobby was pushing for this law to happen, so they could have higher rates and increase profitability of their properties.” (Supporters of the law argued short-term rentals were exacerbating the city’s housing shortage.)

New construction may not ease the strain. While there are more than 8,000 hotel rooms in the pipeline, significantly fewer are expected in the long run, according to analysts and developers. That is because of new zoning rules and special permits , also backed by the influential hotel workers union , that have restricted hotel development , making it more expensive to build and operate hotels.

In a statement, a spokeswoman for Mr. Adams, a Democrat, attributed the rise in hotel rates to the increase in tourism — about 62.2 million people visited the city last year , just below the record 66.6 million in 2019 — rather than the mayor’s policies.

“The return of tourists to New York City is reflected at hotels as well, where demand is up,” the statement said. “New York City is safer, cleaner and, as the numbers show, continues to be one of the most popular destinations in the United States.”

The occupancy rate for hotel rooms last year was 81.7 percent, significantly higher than the 46.7 percent low of 2020, but still not as high as 2019, when 86.2 percent of hotel rooms were occupied, according to the Hotel Association of New York City, a trade group.

The hotels being used as shelters are scattered across the five boroughs, from a 76-room Sleep Inn in the Bronx to the Staten Island Inn, which has 93 rooms. City officials noted that 32 of the hotels are housing both migrants and about 6,000 homeless New Yorkers.

There are notable clusters. More than two dozen hotels are in the vicinity of the Jamaica neighborhood of Queens, and Kennedy International Airport. Another 19 hotels are in and around Long Island City, the rapidly growing neighborhood on the Queens waterfront.

A large concentration — 22 hotels — is in the tourist-centric Midtown Manhattan area: in Times Square, near Grand Central Terminal, by the Empire State Building or in the theater district.

Indeed, the four largest hotels housing migrants — with more than 3,500 rooms combined — are in the heart of Midtown. Those large hotels were mostly older buildings becoming obsolete or in the financial doldrums. The migrant crisis seemed to reverse, or temporarily salvage, their fortunes.

In October 2022, the Row NYC Hotel in Times Square, which opened as the Hotel Lincoln in 1928 but was in financial straits during the pandemic — became the first and the largest hotel converted into a shelter. It struck an initial $40 million deal with the city to house thousands of migrants in its 1,331 rooms at $190 a night. (Rooms reportedly ranged from $300 to $500 the month before it opened as a shelter).

The Roosevelt on East 45th Street, named after Theodore Roosevelt, also emerged as a symbol of the humanitarian crisis . The hotel, which is owned by Pakistan’s national airline, had closed in 2020 during the pandemic, but reopened in May 2023 after signing a contract with the city. Its once-grand lobby is now the main processing center for migrants. Thousands of migrants live upstairs in its 1,025 rooms.

The hotels housing migrants are required to provide trash pickup on a daily basis, housekeeping every other day and fresh towels and linens at least once a week, according to several hotel contracts reviewed by The Times.

Under its contract with the Hotel Association of New York City, which runs until Aug. 31 and is likely to be renewed, the city can spend up to $980 million, but that does not mean that it will, according to city officials and industry leaders. The financial commitment could change depending on migration patterns and the duration of the crisis.

“If the migrant situation gets better, we’ve made clear to hotels that are enrolling in the program that, you know, you could potentially be out of the contract with a month’s notice,” said Vijay Dandapani, the president and chief executive officer of the hotel association.

Mr. Dandapani stressed that his association was not profiting from the city contract, but rather playing the role of negotiator between the city and hotels. He declined to say, however, how much the city had paid hotels so far.

Any hotels that decide to reopen their doors to tourists will have to undertake expensive renovations to repair the wear and tear from operating as shelters. And some hotels have already indicated they will permanently shut down after their shelter contracts run out.

“Some of them will not come back into the hotel industry,” Mr. Dandapani said. “Period.”

Luis Ferré-Sadurní covers immigration, focused on the influx of migrants arriving in the New York region. More about Luis Ferré-Sadurní

Our Coverage of the Adams Administration

A Key Commission :   Mayor Eric Adams named 13 people to a prominent city commission that could remake city government . Most are loyalists or have ties to his inner circle.

Adams vs. Adams :   A power struggle between Adams and the City Council speaker, Adrienne Adams, is turning ugly during a time of acute vulnerability for the mayor .

Corruption Investigation :   An aide to Adams who served as his longtime liaison to the Turkish community is cooperating with the federal investigation  into the mayor and his 2021 campaign.

Democrats Take Aim :   Since Adams took office, many of his fellow Democrats have kept their criticism of him muted or private. That period of harmony is over .

Free Preschool :   The mayor promised free prekindergarten for 3-year-olds. But when the Education Department released offers, hundreds of New York City families were left without a place after all .

Watch CBS News

Is Trump going to prison? What to know about the possible sentence after his conviction

By Kaia Hubbard

Updated on: May 31, 2024 / 6:48 PM EDT / CBS News

Washington — Former President  Donald Trump was found guilty  on all charges in his New York "hush money" trial on Thursday, and the judge overseeing the case will soon venture into uncharted territory to determine whether a former president should be imprisoned for a felony conviction for the first time.

Trump was found guilty of falsifying business records to conceal a $130,000 payment to adult film star Stormy Daniels to buy her silence before the 2016 presidential election. The jury in Manhattan returned its guilty verdict after a trial that stretched six weeks and featured more than 20 witnesses. 

Each of the 34 felony charges carries up to a $5,000 fine and four-year prison sentence. But whether Trump will go to prison is another question — one that's up to the judge at sentencing.

When will Trump be sentenced?

The judge set a July 11 date for sentencing following the jury's verdict on Thursday. 

The timing is in line with similar white-collar felony cases, where sentencing often takes place anywhere from three to eight weeks after conviction, according to Dan Horwitz, a defense lawyer who formerly prosecuted white-collar cases for the Manhattan District Attorney's office.

The sentencing will happen four days before the start of the Republican National Convention.

What to expect from sentencing

The minimum sentence for falsifying business records in the first degree is zero, so Trump could receive probation or conditional discharge, a sentence of no jail or up to four years for each offense. Trump would likely be ordered to serve the prison time concurrently for each count, so up to four years, total. 

"The judge could sentence him to anything between zero and the max," Horwitz said. "So he could sentence him to a period of months in jail, he could sentence him to a period of weeks in jail, he could sentence him to a sentence where he is required, for example, to go to jail every weekend for a period of time and then serve the rest of the sentence on probation."

In an analysis of comparable cases brought by the Manhattan district attorney's office, Norm Eisen, who has written a book about Trump's 2020 election-related federal indictment and served as special counsel in the first impeachment of the former president, found that about 10% resulted in imprisonment. But the circumstances surrounding the case make any across-the-board comparison difficult. 

Trump could also be sentenced to home detention, where he would wear an ankle bracelet and be monitored rather than going to jail. Horwitz suggested that a home detention sentence, which walks a middle ground between no punishment and a stint in state prison, might be the most likely outcome. It would also satisfy Trump's unusual security and political situation. 

A home detention sentence would also make it possible for Trump to continue campaigning — albeit virtually — with the ability to hold news conferences and remain active on social media. Throughout the trial, Justice Juan Merchan stressed the importance of allowing Trump the ability to campaign and exercise his First Amendment rights as he seeks another term in the White House . But it's just part of the equation that the judge must weigh in his decision. 

In an interview on CNN after the verdict, Trump attorney Todd Blanche was asked if he expected prosecutors to seek jail time. "I have no idea," Blanche replied. "Look, there's there's a system in place that that where you rely on precedent, and somebody like President Trump should never, never face a jail sentence based on this conduct."

What will the judge consider in Trump's sentencing?

There are a number of factors that the court can take into consideration for sentencing, including the nature and extent of the conduct, who was hurt, whether there are victims, and acceptance of responsibility, Horwitz said. Trump has repeatedly denied any guilt in the case.

"Courts will credit a defendant who pleads guilty by accepting responsibility for their conduct, as opposed to not accepting responsibility going into trial and getting convicted," Horwitz added, saying that "the sentence after a trial because you didn't accept responsibility is more stringent than it would have otherwise been."

A defendant's conduct during the trial may also play a role, so Trump's repeated violation of Merchan's gag order may be a significant factor in his sentencing. During the trial, Trump was accused over a dozen times of violating a gag order preventing him from making public comments about likely witnesses, jurors, attorneys and court staff involved in the case. 

Trump's sentencing may also be complicated by the lifetime Secret Service protection that he's afforded as a former president. The issue came up during the trial, when the judge held Trump in contempt for violating a gag order . Though Trump faced multiple fines, the judge expressed that jailing Trump was "the last thing I want to do" because it would have disrupted the trial and presented challenges for the Secret Service agents tasked with protecting the former president. 

"Today's outcome has no bearing on the manner in which the United States Secret Service carries out its protective mission," the Secret Service said in a statement provided to CBS News following the verdict. "Our security measures will proceed unchanged."  

Trump's imprisonment would likely need to include a rotation of Secret Service officers, and he would need to be isolated from other inmates. The former president's food and personal items would likely need to be screened for his protection, among other logistical considerations. 

"For all settings around the world, we study locations and develop comprehensive and layered protective models that incorporate state of the art technology, protective intelligence and advanced security tactics to safeguard our protectees," Anthony Guglielmi, the Secret Service's chief of communications, said before the verdict. 

No U.S. prison has ever previously had to deal with the possible imprisonment of a former president. Horwitz said there are mechanisms for inmates in protective custody at state correctional facilities and jails, but how the process would actually work remains to be seen. 

After Trump's conviction on Thursday, the Secret Service said in a new statement that "today's outcome has no bearing on the manner in which the United States Secret Service carries out its protective mission. Our security measures will proceed unchanged." 

Where could Trump be imprisoned?

Should Trump be sentenced to a period of home detention, the former president could carry out the sentence outside of New York, for instance, at his Mar-a-Lago estate in Florida, where New York state would coordinate with Florida's probation department, which would monitor Trump's confinement, Horwitz said. 

In the event that Trump is sentenced to jail time, the location would depend on the duration of his sentence.

If Trump faces more than one year in jail, New York law requires that his sentence be served in a New York penal facility. But if his sentence is shorter than a year, it would be served in a New York City correctional facility, such as Rikers Island. 

What comes next? 

Trump could seek to stay the execution of any sentence pending appeal, meaning that he wouldn't have to start serving the sentence until an appeals court makes a decision, which is not uncommon in white collar cases in New York federal courts, Horwitz said. The move could delay any jail time until the election — or even beyond.

In any case, though possible imprisonment raises some hurdles for Trump's presidential campaign, his conviction does not restrict him from continuing to run — even if he's behind bars.

Olivia Rinaldi and Jake Rosen contributed reporting.

• Donald Trump

Kaia Hubbard is a politics reporter for CBS News Digital, based in Washington, D.C.

More from CBS News

Bragg says "the jury has spoken" after Trump conviction

What's next after Trump's conviction? How he might appeal the verdict

Congressional Republicans stick by Trump after conviction

What to know about Trump's conviction in his "hush money" case